Katowice In Your Pocket July - October 2019 by Poland In Your Pocket

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Katowice City Guide

No. 37, Summer 2019

Katowice - UNESCO City of Music p.6 Rawa Blues Festival

p.15

Activities & Experiences

p.42

Contents

Katowice

Feature UNESCO City of Music p.6 Foreword

Feature UNESCO City of Music

Events 10

Around Upper Silesia The Silesian Province: full of positive energy! 46 Industrial Tourism 48 Auschwitz-Birkenau 52

CafĂŠs

Arrival & Transport

Polish Facts & Language

Traditional Silesian Dishes Polish Alcohol

56 74

22 27 34 39

Restaurants

Nightlife

Shopping

Hotels

Index

Maps

City Map Katowice Centre Silesia Park Nikiszowiec

Katowice Sightseeing

24 Downtown Katowice 26 Cultural Zone 30 Southern Katowice 32 Silesia Park 34 Nikiszowiec 38

Activities & Experiences 42 Kids & Families 44

Local Flavours

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 3

Foreword Ahh, sun, sun, sun, you’ve finally reached Katowice! Welcome to issue 37 of Katowice In Your Pocket! You’re here at a great time, now that the city’s vibrant culture scene is in full swing with festivals and events taking place regularly - read our feature on p.6 to learn more about Katowice’s music credentials, recognised, no less, by UNESCO - ooooh. Check out our ‘Events’ section on p.10 for full details on all the best picks of the Silesian cultural calendar! The buzz around town is both palpable and visible, with people jogging, skating, and cycling - we encourage you to try out the city bike scheme (p.42). In summer half the population disappears to the Valley of Three Ponds (p.33) - the city’s best kept secret for waterside relaxation, with bars, beaches, pedestrian and cycle paths and a public waterpark for the kids. Contrary to outside opinion, Katowice actually has a lot to offer, whether it’s fun outdoor activities, post-industrial tourism or some serious history lessons in the city’s museums. The city’s cafe culture, foodie scene and nightlife are all in full swing and steadily improving, so get out there and have some fun. As always, let us know how you got on in Katowice on our Facebook page (/Katowiceinyourpocket) and/or show us what you’ve seen during your time in the city by using the hashtag #Katowiceinyourpocket, or if you prefer, just use good old fashioned email: poland@inyourpocket.com. Andrew Elliott, who has close ties to Poland, has been living here since 2016 when he finally decided to make the big leap from Scotland to get a more in-depth grasp of this fascinating country. Personal interests include astronomy, current affairs, food & drink, photography & videography! He even has a slight penchant for history.

COVER STORY The summer feel good factor coupled with the music festival season being in full swing gives Silesia a real buzz. Here is ‘bubble town’ in the making during the Tauron New Music Festival. Photo: Damian Kramski.

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 10,000 copies published 3 times per year Writer & Editor: Andrew Elliott Sales Consultant: Monika Szymanek (+48) 668 876 351 Events: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 87 94 94, Agata Janik, Katarzyna Mrozewska-Fenz. Research: Mateusz Gofroń, Dominika Sosnowska, Patrycja Ples Layout & Maps: Marcin Jakubionek Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia

Galeria Katowicka

3 rd ﬂoor, mezzanine 3 maja 30, Katowice

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Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Galeria Katowicka 3 rd ﬂoor, mezzanine 3 maja 30, Katowice

+48 577 818 088

UNESCO City of Music JOINING THE CLUB The UNESCO Creative Cities initiative was launched in 2004 and its goal is “to foster international cooperation with and between cities committed to investing in creativity as a driver for sustainable urban development, social inclusion and cultural vibrancy.” Cities are recognised in 7 different categories: Crafts & Folk Art, Design, Film, Gastronomy, Literature, Media Arts, Music. Katowice joins Bogota (Columbia), Seville (Spain), Bologna (Italy), Glasgow (Scotland), Gandawa (Belgium), Brazzaville (Congo), Hamamatsu (Japan), as well as Mannheim and Hannover (Germany) to be the newest UNESCO City of Music in the World and the only in Central and Eastern Europe. All things considered it is quite astounding how in little over 50 years Katowice has gone from being considered a cultural backwater to one of the most dynamic and interesting musical cities in the world. “The UNESCO Creative Cities Network represents an immense potential to assert the role of culture as enabler of sustainable development,” declared the Director-General. This statement especially rings true for Katowice which has been going through a massive transformation from an industrial hub to a postindustrial haven for innovative festivals, concerts, and projects across numerous genres.

The cultural zone being used to its full potential! Photo: R.Kazimierczak.

One of two impressive stages inside NOSPR (p.31) during the Tauron New Music Festival. | Photo: Radosław Kazimierczak.

UNESCO City of Music While much of Poland is still catching up to the fact that Katowice is fast emerging as Poland’s preeminent music destination, locals and international music festival attendees have known it for years. In 2015, Katowice’s musical prowess and cultural status was certified by none other than UNESCO itself. Let’s take a look at this prestigious distinction by exploring Katowice’s multi-genre musical pedigree. 6

festival, the aptly named Fest Festival (p.11), which will take place for the first time in August in Silesia Park. This new kid on the block is one to look out for. If you are a fan of the Blues you may have also heard of the Rawa Blues Festival which has been held in the Spodek for the past 35 years and is the largest indoor Blues festival in the world. This festival, above all others (there are now over 30 music festivals held in Katowice every year), embodies the spirit and energy of the region as Silesia has long been a hotbed for Blues as well as classic R&B-derived Rock & Roll. While these three festivals certainly have played a huge role in the growth of the city’s musical identity and popularity, it is perhaps the city’s homegrown classical music scene that finally got UNESCO’s attention and solidified Katowice’s position in this exclusive club.

CONTEMPORARY CLASSICS

Irek Dudek, founder of the Rawa Blues Festival (p.15).

Photo: L. Rak

THE BEST FESTIVALS These days, the first thing that comes to most people’s minds when they hear the name Katowice is the hugely popular music festivals the city annually plays host to. The Off Festival and Tauron New Music festivals have both been going for over a decade and are now two of the biggest alternative and electronic music festivals, respectively, in Europe. Each attracts hundreds of thousands of international festival goers every August to Katowice and both are consistently voted as top European music festivals by music magazines and blogs. Not to be outdone by Katowice, and proving that the wider Silesian region is just as exciting, Chorzów now has a new music

Way before indoor or outdoor music festivals were all the rage, Katowice was renowned for producing some of the most talented contemporary classical composers in all of Poland. Specifically there are two names that rise high above the rest: Henryk Górecki and Wojciech Kilar. While neither were officially born in Katowice, both ended up studying and later teaching and even running the esteemed Karol Szymanowski Academy of Music. Górecki took the Classical music world by storm in the 1960’s and 70’s, and then really put Katowice on the map in 1992 when his third symphony became a surprise global hit selling over a million copies. That same year Kilar also earned global recognition for his score to Francis Ford Coppola’s critically acclaimed film, Dracula. Over his whole career he composed scores for over 100 films, mostly working with acclaimed Polish directors Andrzej Wajda, Krzysztof Kieślowski and Roman Polański (including The Ninth Gate and The Pianist). Both composers fought most of their professional lives to raise the profile and quality of music in Katowice. Shortly after Kilar’s death in 2013 the square where the new NOSPR building stands was named after him. 7

UNESCO City of Music 11.10-12.10 » RAWA BLUES FESTIVAL Rawa Blues Festival found its beginnings in dark political times for Poland - 1981 was the year of martial law which followed the birth of the Solidarity movement in 1980. As it happens, music is often the best response to the oppressive system and that is exactly what Ireneusz Dudek thought when founding the festival. Since then it has became one of the most recognised indoor blues festivals in the world, hosting many international and Polish blues artists. The 2019 lineup will feature: Rick Estrin & The Nightcats, Irek Dudek, Hannah Wicklund and The Steppin’ Stones, James Blood Ulmer, Memphis Blood Bleas Band feat. Vernon Reid, Victor Wainwright and The Train, The Daniel Castro Band, Lindsay Beaver and many more. The festival takes place in NOSPR (p.31), and the impressive UFO shaped venue Spodek (p.30).QO‑10, Spodek, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 438 40 30, Tickets 50-309zł, www.rawablues. com. Katowice’s musical credentials range from alternative to classical. Photo: Silesian Philharmonic

SILESIAN PHILHARMONIC The Silesian Philharmonic is one of the country’s most respected musical institutions and has existed since 1945. In addition to the Philharmonic Symphony Orchestra there is also a mixed choir and Chamber Orchestra. The orchestra has performed all over Europe as well as Japan and can count Artur Rubinstein as one of the many distinguished artists who have performed on its stage. The repertoire covers the work of contemporary Polish composers as well as classical work while the magnificent concert hall seats up to 400 people. The listings below have been selected from the full programme which can be seen on the Philharmonic’s website.QM‑11, ul. Sokolska 2, tel. (+48) 32 351 17 13, www.filharmonia-slaska.eu. Open 10:00-16:00. 20 Jul - 16 Aug: 19 Aug - 30 Aug: 10:00-17:00. Box office also Sat, Sun 2 hours before the performance. Between 13:00-13:30 Box office closed. Tickets 5-110zł. The stages are always rocked at the OFF Festival!.

KAROL SZYMANOWSKI ACADEMY OF MUSIC By virtue of being one of the handful of aesthetically pleasing buildings in Katowice, the city’s Music Academy was recently voted by locals as one of their top five favourite things about Kato. This handsome red brick neo-Gothic building was built at the turn of the century, and in addition to its good looks, it’s also home to one of the most modern concert halls and the largest music library in the region. One of the leading music schools in PL, it can claim well-known contemporary composer Henryk Górecki, who both studied and later taught at the academy, as its most famous alma mater. If you are interested in a tour of the building call ahead to arrange a time. Also, make sure to check their concert schedule to catch what will surely be an unforgettable musical experience. But tickets are usually scarce so make sure you reserve in advance!QP‑13, ul. Zacisze 3, tel. (+48) 32 779 21 00, www.am.katowice.pl. 8

Photo: UM Katowice

02.08-04.08 » OFF FESTIVAL OFF Festival is Poland’s most prestigious multi-genre music festival set up by Polish rock royalty Artur Rojek in response to the lack of diversity within the contemporary Polish music landscape. The first festival took place in 2006 in Mysłowice, and has since grown considerably, resulting in its relocation to the much larger Dolina Trzech Stawów (Valley of Three Ponds, p.33) in Katowice. OFF Festival continually boasts an eclectic lineup, merging together lesser-known artists with international stars. The 2019 edition will see Stereolab, Neneh Cherry and The Comet is Coming headline the three-day festival, with Britpop innovators Suede and indie giants Foals appearing at the peak of this year’s bill.QS‑16, Valley of Three Ponds, ul. Trzech Stawów, One Day Tickets 220zł, Three Day Pass 400zł, www.offfestival.pl.

Events

Events The event will be accompanied by vocal workshops, various musical games, family picnic and lots and lots of great food! It is the event you don’t want to miss.QTickets 25-85zł.

03.08 18:00 » MY 3

There is no need to be bored even if you are stuck in the city this summer! The fantastic young music group My3 will entertain its young (and not only) audience during the concert in Zabrze. The band memebers, Julia “Julka” Trojanowska, Natalia „Natka” Klewicz and Karolina „Gefi” Gefert will perform for their fans their already hugely popular compositions at Park 12C. So bring your energy and let these young talented performers entertain you! QGuido Mineshaft, ul. 3 Maja 93, Zabrze (Centrum Południe), tel. (+48) 32 271 40 77, Tickets 100zł, www. kopalniaguido.pl.

23.08 - 24.08 » FEST FESTIVAL

Katowice shows off its UNESCO City of Music credentials during the OFF Festival (p. 8)

EVENTS BY DATE 07.06 - 23.08 » ART NAIF FESTIVAL

Naïve art, also known as art brut, outsider art, in other words, art predominantly made at the hands of an artist who lacks the training and formal education that a professional artist typically undergoes. The industrial shaft in Katowice transformed into a Contemporary Art Gallery is the home of the International Festival of Naïve Art. This unique festival brings together artists from all over the world who fill the Wilson Shaft Gallery with paintings, ceramics, and sculptures. The event aims to encourage diversity and to impact the lives of people through art. The leading country of the 12th Art Naif Festival is Colombia. QZ‑14, Wilson Shaft Gallery, ul. Oswobodzenia 1 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 730 32 20, Admission free, www.artnaiffestiwal.pl.

29.06 - 31.08 » SUPER SUMMER

Katowice Supersam’s rooftop will be transformed this summer into a vast entertainment zone where great musicians and people craving the best musicwill meet. Ten bands were invited by the project Dzielnica Brzmi Dobrze (District sounds good), whose aim is to promote music groups identifying themselves with the city and its particular districts. Since Katowice was named by UNESCO the City of Music, it is this organisation that extends patronage of the event. QM‑11, DH Supersam, ul. Skargi 6, tel. (+48) 32 712 18 38, Admission free. 10

07.07, 14.07, 21.07, 28.07 21:00 » SUMMER CINEMA

Spend your summer evenings relaxing on the beach while watching the best movies on a big outdoor screen in the middle of a city.! Sounds impossible? Come to Park 12C and find out for yourself. There will be great food straight from the grill and many other attractions waiting for you so do not miss it! QGuido Mineshaft, ul. 3 Maja 93, Zabrze (Centrum Południe), tel. (+48) 32 271 40 77, Admission 1zł, www.sztolnialuiza.pl.

19.0 19:00 » FILM AND KOREAN JINGU DABYOT SYMPHONY YOUTH ORCHESTRA

Jingu Dabyot Symphony Youth Orchestra conducted by Gae Jun Jeon with Soyung Yu (soprano) and Christina Minan (soprano) will perform excerpts from Andrew Lloyd Webber famous musicals as well as film scores composed by John Williams, James Horner and Klaus Badelt. This enthusiastic group of young musicians will also perform their native Korean music for the Polish audience. QM‑11, Silesian Philharmonic, ul. Sokolska 2, tel. (+48) 32 351 17 13, Tickets 25zł, www. filharmonia-slaska.eu.

26.07 - 28.07 » FRONT PORCH BLUES

Front Porch Blues is a music extravaganza happening on three stages over the three energy-filled days. Thirty talented artists will be performing for die-hard blues fans.

As if Upper Silesia’s musical credentials weren’t already in the top tier with a host of musical festivals throughout the summer season, the new kid on the block, Fest Festival, has certainly raised some eyebrows since the new festival was announced. To make their mark, they needed to confirm some big names: step up the hip hop giants Wu-Tang Clan, French DJ Vitalic pres. Dima, English electronic duo Disclosure, Irish singersongwriter Róisín Murphy, English electronic group Metronomy and German DJ Christian Löffler to name just a few from the impressively long list of artists! The two day festival will take place in Chorzów’s huge Silesia Park (p.34) with an accompanying camping area. The site is easy to get to and the park itself is an attraction, so the festivities and music will no doubt make their mark on every music lover’s mind.QE‑5, Silesia Park, Al. Różana 2, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 793 70 08, Tickets 289zł, www.festfestival.pl.

25.08 17:00 » A MUSICAL JOURNEY AT THE END OF THE HOLIDAYS

Holiday memories enhanced by the beautiful music - an enticing concert offered by the Silesian Philharmonic. The programme includes compositions from the movies The Lion King, Beauty and The Beast and Frozen, performed by Joanna Smajdor (vocal) and Bartosz Kalicki (piano), accompanied by the Silesian Chamber Orchestra. QM‑11, Silesian Philharmonic, ul. Sokolska 2, tel. (+48) 32 351 17 13, Tickets 28-50zł, www.filharmonia-slaska.eu.

31.08 19:00 » PYROSILESIA

The second edition of PyroSilesia is a unique fireworks show choreographed to the incredible music. Explosions, flashes, smoke, flames, fireworks mesmerising with colours and shapes will draw crowds of spectators to Muchowiec Airoport. The invited performers are Jula&Filip Lato. There will be specially prepared play zone for the younger audience. Due to the growing interest, this year event will be able to accommodate 30 000 guests. QP‑17, Muchowiec Airport, Lotnisko 1, tel. +48 32 256 10 53, 19.99/39.99, www.pyrosilesia.pl/.

03.09 19:30 » CHARLES DUTOIT

National Polish Radio Symphony Orchestra conducted by a controversial Swiss conductor Charles Dutoit, will perform Benjamin Britten’s War Requiem op. 66. The soloists will be: Evelina Dobračeva (soprano), Robin Tritschler (tenor), Andrzej Dobber (baritone), accompanied by the National Forum Of Music Choir and Polish National Youth Choir. QO‑10, NOSPR - Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, www.nospr.org.pl.

24.09 - 29.10 » ARS INDEPENDENT INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL

Ars Independent Festival 2019 will be the 9th multimedia festival of film, animation, video games, and music videos. The festival presents a series of cinematographic debuts by new directors. The audience will award the filmmakers four Black Horse prizes: for film, short animated feature, video game and music video. The competition will be accompanied by film screenings, video games exhibition, virtual reality presentations, discussion panels, art performances, and afterparties. QTickets will be announced shortly, www.arsindependent.pl/en.

28.09 18:30 » BEHEMOTH

Behemoth, a Polish blackened death metal band, is going on “Ecclesia Diabolica Baltica” tour this September. The tour will include six concerts in Poland - Behemoth will 11

Events

Project co-ﬁnanced by the European Union under the European Regional Development Fund within the Infrastructure and Environment Programme | For the development of infrastructure and environment

Events perform together with specially invited guests - Zeal & Ardor, Whoredom Rife and In Twilight’s Embrace. The tour promotes the band’s latest album I Love You at Your Darkest, but there will be plenty of surprising additions, mainly musical, but count also on Negral commenting on the current political situation in Poland... QO‑10, Spodek, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 438 40 30, Tickets 110zł.

04.10 - 06.10 » AUKSODRONE

Led by Marek Moś and Tychy Chamber Orchestra, Auksodrone consists of three parts – Contemporary Opera, New Wave Jazz, and Electronics Studies –plus series of accompanying events devoted to music and its inception. Contemporary Opera will present Alek Nowak’s triptych Drach. Dramma per musica, Leszek Możdżer will combine older and newer jazz compositions for the New Wave Jazz portion of Auksdrone and Electronics Studies will revisit analog sources of music. The concerts will be accompanied by a series of workshops, all of the above happening at various locations within Mediateka. QTickets 59zł, Three Day Pass 119zł, www.auksodrone. com.

NOSPR AND CONCERT HALL ACOUSTICS SPONSOR

18.10 19:30 » LAWRENCE FOSTER

Lawrence Foster (United States) will conduct the National Polish Radio Symphony Orchestra with Rudolf Buchbinder (Austria) on the piano, performing Grażyna Bacewicz’s Violin Concerto, Ludwig van Beethoven’s Piano Concerto No. 4 in G major Op. 58 and George Enescu’s Symphony No. 1 in E flat major, Op. 13. QO‑10, NOSPR - Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, Tickets vary, www. nospr.org.pl.

27.10 12:00 » JERZY MAKSYMIUK

The concert commemorates the 170th anniversary of Frederic Chopin’s death. Jerzy Maksymiuk will conduct National Polish Radio Symphony Orchestra with Janusz Olejniczak on the piano, performing Chopin’s The Piano Concerto No. 2 in F minor, Op. 21 and Sergei Prokofiev’s Symphony No. 1 in D major Classical, Op. 25. Marcin Majchrowski will take on the role of narrator. QO‑10, NOSPR - Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, Tickets vary, www.nospr.org.pl.

EXHIBITIONS

Repertoire available on nospr.org.pl 12

NOSPR IS CO-FINANCED

13.11 - 31.12 » GALLERY OF STEEL FIGURES

Think of Madame Tussauds in London, and this is similar just that the figures and models are all made from recycled metals! What started as a project in a scrapyard in Pruszków (outside Warsaw), has turned into a host of galleries across the country and abroad. 120 craftsmen work attentively to create a range cool pieces inspired by cars, animals, various cartoon and movie characters (Minions, Transformers and the Hulk!) which can be as small as 140cm to 320 cm in height! The weight difference too is impressive, and can be from as little as 50kg to 1,200kg! If you need more detail,

the models are made from, well, old nuts, bolts, bits and pieces of metals, basically anything found in a scrapyard! It is visually fascinating and engaging as you can get those perfect photos of you sitting in a car or hugging your favourite movie character. Great value for money!QGallery of Steel Figures, ul. Pszczyńska 315, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 724 54 51 41, Admission 28/19zł, family ticket 80zł. Children under 3 free., www.galleryofsteelfigures.com/ galeria-gliwice.

BWA Contemporary Art Gallery in Katowice

26.04 - 11.08 » SALVADOR DALI: BOSKA KOMEDIA

Between 1951 and 1960, Dalí had painted 100 watercolours in preparation for the publication of The Divine Comedy. The illustrations are considered by many to be the most creative total body of work ever by Dalí. The collection of Dali’s works exhibited at Schoen Palace includes over 250 artworks owned by the Kesauri family. The surreal imagination and visual power of Dali’s imagery offer levels into Dante’s work that might not have been reached otherwise.Q www. muzeum.org.pl. Tickets 10-20zł.

Free workshops, lectures, performances!

↗ www.bwa.katowice.pl ↙

08.06 - 01.09 » ZAJAWKA. SILESIAN HIP-HOP 1993-2003

Zajawka (brief insight, trailer) exhibition tells the story of a fascination with the African-American hip-hop movement of the 1970s transplanted to Poland of 1993-2003. It is the world seen from the perspective of an adolescent living in the 1990s, for whom MTV was more important than political changes. Young people who were part of the hip-hop subculture knew everything about hip-hop music, DJing, painting graffiti, and breakdancing. They shared the same look - baggy pants, oversized hoodies, caps or bandanas - thanks to that they had a strong sense of belonging, which is sth every teenager craves. QP‑11, Silesian Museum, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, Tickets 9/14zł, www.muzeumslaskie. pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

Co-financed by Minister of Culture and National Heritage from Culture Promotion Fund

17.06 - 27.07 » RAT-MONKEY

Martyna Czech, Martyna Kielesińska, Cyryl Polaczek and Szymon Szewczyk attempt to answer the question to what extent human dominance influences animal existence. How do animals adapt to life in an environment ruled solely by humans? Is coexistence at all possible? Visitors will have an opportunity to watch films depicting people with strong animal traits, interspecies metamorphoses, emotional portraits of animals enslaved by man and endangered species. QN‑10, Rondo Sztuki, Rondo gen. Ziętka 1, tel. (+48) 32 720 11 32, Admission free, www.rondosztuki.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

28.06 - 30.08 » YESTERDAY - TODAY

Krzysztof Szymanowicz’s exhibition Yesterday - Today pays tribute to the role of memory in his art. It is the core of the artist’s creative output, an attempt to answer a series of metaphysical questions and grasp the meaning of things not accessible by the human mind and senses. Krzysztof Szymanowicz’s graphics serve as diaries of his past 13

Events memories, his artistic autobiography. Memories are often metaphorically called wax imprints, they are “imprinted” on a wax tablet. The process of their creation is very close to the art of creating graphics. Szymanowicz’s most recent series is entitled Engrams - the artist’s attempt to define memory, still not very well understood by science. QO‑13, Katowice Historical Museum, ul. Kościuszki 47, tel. (+48) 32 728 85 57, Admission 5/10zł, www. mhk.katowice.pl. Open 11:00-15:00, Tue 11:00-16:00, Closed Sat, Sun, Mon.

09.02 - 28.07 » TERESA MURAK. I AM.

Teresa Murak is a conceptual artist working with perishable materials such as cress, germinating cereal grains, ash and fabrics. The exhibition “I Am” is a close look at Silesia and its identity symbolized by the giant steel cross covered with coal, its meaning combining prosperity juxtaposed with environmental pollution. The image opens a simple dialogue of the artist with a viewer.QP‑11, Silesian Museum, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, Admisson 16/24zł, www.muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

30.03 - 28.07 » CLOSE BUT FROM A DISTANT WORLD

“Close but from a Distant World” is an exhibition taking an audience through the history of animal domestication. Most of us go about our day without considering our encounters with domesticated animals. Yet animal domestication has played a significant role in our lives because it changed human history. The exhibition displays animal skeletons, everyday things made out of animal bones and leather, dishes and figurines dating back thousands of years. It is the first exhibit of this sort in Poland accompanied by scientific publications.QP‑11, Silesian Museum, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, Admission 9/14zł, www.muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

Rawa Blues Festival his creative process fun play. Ready materials such as photographs, magazine cutouts, etc., are right in front of his eyes, inspiring him to draw, paste and add stuff to them. The process becomes a kind of therapy, creative relaxation, way to talk to people. Roman Kalarus’s art is his way of communicating, his own visual language that sort of happens. The artist does not try to force anything - the ready images are the starting point and he lets them lead him on his creative intimate journey. QO‑13, Katowice Historical Museum, ul. Kopernika 11, tel. (+48) 32 745 17 28, Admission 5/10zł, www.mhk.katowice.pl. Open 11:00-15:00, Tue 11:00-16:00, Closed Sat, Sun, Mon.

08.06 - 01.09 » KINGDOM OF HEAVEN

Arkadiusz Gola’s Kingdom of Heaven exhibition is a symbiosis of imagery and words. Arkadiusz Gola is a Silesian artist, a photographer documenting the changes that took place in Upper Silesia region after 1989. The exhibition presents haunting photographs of grey Katowice backyards turned into friendly spaces by people who lived there. Each photograph is accompanied by a text written by Marek Twarog, a Silesian journalist, editorin-chief of Dziennik Zachodni, fascinated by the regional aspects of Upper Silesia. The two artists created a cohesive artistic unity definitely worth exploring. QY‑16, Industrial Ethnography Museum, ul. Rymarska 4 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 353 95 59, Admission 8/12zł, www.mhk. katowice.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon.

What’s On in Katowice? It’s all In Your Pocket

07.06 - 23.08 » PAWEŁ BIESOK. IN THE WORLD OF ART

The exhibition of Paweł Biesok’s art is part of Katowice’s Art Naif Festival, during which artworks created by nonprofessional artists from all over the world are presented. Paweł Biesok i a laureate of Art Therapy Workshop in Drogomyśl. His works are interpretations of other artists’ works. Paweł Biesok is not interested in the original work as such, but rather in what it represents. He sees the world as it was painted by Chagall, Picasso and other artists, and recreates it himself, using his own ways of expressing it. His paintings, although based on existing artworks, are very original and fresh. QP‑11, Silesian Museum, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, Admission 9/14zł, www.muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

16.05 - 30.08 » INTIMATE MINIATURES

Roman Kalarus’s exhibition of his collages is an idyllic fairytale bathed in psychedelic colours. The artist calls 14

Irek Dudek of the Rawa Blues Festival.

The Rawa Blues Festival turns 39 this year, having started during the upheaval of Communist-era Poland, mere months before the events of Martial Law in 1981. To begin in this time was certainly no mean feat as blues music was very nearly forbidden by the authorities for being considered a symbol of western culture! Given the early circumstances, it's incredible that over the last few decades the festival has grown from a purely domestic celebration of blues, to now being an internationally recognised event, today held in Katowice's top venues, the classic Spodek and NOSPR, which is a testament to the success of the event, the Polish blues movement, and the determination of its founder, Polish blues legend Ireneusz Dudek. James Blood Ulmer at Rawa Blues.

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The first edition had 20 mainly student performers, with 500 attendees, playing in venues in and around Upper Silesia. During the course of the 1980s, blues, and the festival grew in popularity. And then it happened, the key moment came as the communist system crumbled away – the stage was set to open up not only Poland, but the Polish blues scene to the rest of the world, and vice versa! And hence, over the next few years, festival attendance figures rose to 10,000 in Spodek, and Irek Dudek invited big names of international blues to Poland! The rest, as they say, was history! The festival, named after the city's Rawa river, has continued to grow in popularity and played a big part in cementing the city's blues credentials. The internationally recognised The Blues Foundation bestowed

Photo: Ł. Rak

Rawa Blues with the highly acclaimed Keeping the Blues Alive award in the international festivals category in 2012 for promiting blues music and culture. But it didn't end there, as Rawa has played witness to, and been part of, Katowice and Upper Silesia's cultural and musical growth, the big wigs at UNESCO certainly noticed, and awarded Katowice the title of 'City of Music'. The festival's and Katowice's musical journey is steering on a good course as it continues to gain international recognition, and to think that we're just one year away from celebrating a big miletons for the festival's – the big 4-0... Q11.10-12.10, Spodek/NOSPR, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 438 40 30, Tickets 50-309zł, www.rawablues.com. 15

Arrival & Transport

Arrival & Transport BY PLANE

TRANSPORT TOOLS/APPS

KATOWICE AIRPORT Katowice Airport is located 34km north east of Katowice in Pyrzowice, with frequent shuttle bus connections to and from Katowice. Two Departure Terminals, A and B, are situated side by side with a brand new Terminal C serving as the main Arrivals hub. Terminal C raises the airport’s projected passenger capacity from 3.6-4 million annual passengers to 5.5-6 million. All three terminals feature spotless toilets, money exchange counters, ATMs, information points, refreshment stops, pharmacy (Terminal B only) and car rental counters. The Airport has also recently updated its Business Traveller services for more comfortable arrivals and departures. Services included an expanded Business Lounge, Fast Track check in and a new Meet & Assist program that provides all encompassing concierge and valet services. For more info check out their new website. Taxis wait directly outside and can deliver you to Katowice for 95-160zł. (always confirm price first). ‘Airport Bus Service’/’Matuszek’ shuttle service makes the same journey for only 25zł (to Kraków for 50zł), and departure times from in front of both terminals are coordinated with flight arrivals (shuttles are even cheaper if you book online). Dropping off at ul. Andrzeja (M-12), you can pay cash to the driver on the spot or book ahead on their website: www. matuszek.com.pl.

Katowice Train Station

BY TRAIN For decades Katowice had a serious PR problem in the menacing shape of its own central train station - a truly ghastly architectural abomination that sheltered all manner of strange smells and a host of dubious characters. Having ourselves survived many a close encounter with tunnel dwelling riffraff and several existential dilemmas while commiserating in the communist era cafeteria, we are overjoyed to announce that those days are gone and no longer will travellers have to live in fear of drawing near to this huge communication hub. The loooong awaited, fully renovated and totally reconceptualised Katowice train station officially opened in October 2012 and was fully operational from April 2013. The finished product is indeed a thing of beauty (wait, are we still in Katowice?), and while it will undoubtedly take time for some people to fully scrub the industrial stain of the old train station from their memory, those arriving in the city for the first time will find themselves greeted by a fully modern metropolis that exceeds expectations. Congrats Katowice, it’s nice to meet you. KATOWICE TRAIN STATION With a total investment estimated at 240 million euros, the new station welcomes 12 million passengers per year with 520 trains running through it every 24 hours. The station also incorporates an enormous and modern shopping mall (Galeria Katowicka) and an underground parking 16

lot, with additional shopping and entertainment venues on Szewczyk Square. The regional bus station under the station is already operational so if you are travelling somewhere in Silesia beyond Katowice, or on your way to the airport, head down one of the escalators in the main train terminal to grab a bus. Besides the bevvy of modern conveniences and prestige the new station brings, perhaps the greatest advantage is its location and full integration as a local, national and international transport hub. In July and August there are 11 direct trains from Katowice to Kraków. Departure times: 03:17 (From June 03:34), 05:34, 08:14, 10:35, 14:30, 15:30, 16:35, 18:23, 20:11 (check their site in case of change to timetable). The average journey time is between 2:05 - 2:15. It is also possible to travel between the cities of the Silesian Metropolis by local train (Koleje Śląskie) from around 5am-midnight; the trip to Zabrze is about 20 minutes, to Gliwice 30 minutes. Station departure boards (odjazdy) are indicated by their yellow timetables while arrivals (przyjazdy) are white. The ticket offices for Intercity Trains are open 24hrs and for Koleje Śląskie 05:00 - 21:30. For connections to other destinations in Poland or abroad, check the website or call the infoline.QM‑12, Pl. Szewczyka, tel. (+48) 22 391 97 57 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp. pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00.

Airport Buses arrive (and depart) in the new local bus terminal located under the central train station in the city center and you can find their schedule here: www.pkm. katowice.pl/lotnisko. Full schedules for flights, as well as other essential travel information can be found at the userfriendly www.katowice-airport.com. Qul. Wolności 90, Pyrzowice, tel. (+48) 32 392 72 02, www.katowiceairport.com.

JAKDOJADE Despite the fact that Katowice’s tram and bus network is easy to use, even for foreigners, we’ll still admit to being a bit put off from using it at first; that is until we discovered the veritable skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the katowice.jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app for your smartphone. The former is a wonderful and free tool for advance planning, but the paid app is more practical for figuring out how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town and away from your computer. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically) and destination, or pin the locations on a map; select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. Finished at the museum and want to head back to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop and even tell you which ticket to buy. It’s brilliant and absolutely worth the couple euros you’ll spend to download it. E-PODRÓŻNIK This site can also help you get from point A to point B within Katowice, but is really invaluable when it comes to planning the journey to your next destination by bus or train. Use e-podroznik.pl to easily search bus and train connections and timetables, compare prices and even buy tickets in one of seven languages. There’s also a free mobile app (Android only). MYTAXI The world’s first and most popular taxi app is very much available in PL. MyTaxi allows you to compare rates, arrival times, car models, and more, sending the cab of your choice to your location (and allowing you to track its progress) without you having to talk to any dispatchers. Download it for free from their website: mytaxi.com. UBER Not only has Uber (uber.com) arrived in Poland, but the company recently opened their European hub in Kraków. If you’re already an Uber user, you’ll find that the alternative taxi service - whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash, no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage across Silesia and all of Poland, however there are some drawbacks. Specifically, Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for slightly cheaper rates.

Katowice-Pyrzowice Airport

Photo: UserPiotrus, CC BY-SA 3.0

Arrival & Transport BY BUS

BY CAR

BUS STATION To call Katowice Bus Station (M-11) a ‘bus station’ is a bit of a misnomer. In reality, it’s little more than a small tin shed. Inside you’ll find a small waiting room (open 06:00 - 20:00) and all departures (odjazdy) and arrival times (przyjazdy) noted up on the board (most tickets have to be purchased directly from bus drivers). Outside the few departure lanes offer very little shelter from the elements but there is a drink and snacks shack, and a 24hr bathroom. Located in the heart of town next to the new Supersam shopping mall, to get your bearing after arrival take a swift left turn at ul. Mickiewicza (M/N-11) and within three minutes you’ll find yourself staring at the principal main street, ul. Stawowa (M-11/12). You’ll have to go further onto the Rynek (N-12) to find the nearest tourist information point, however. While it doesn’t offer tickets or phone cards (buy those at most kiosks), it does offer maps and advice and there is also internet. For info on local city buses see Public Transport.QM‑11, ul. Skargi 1, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 15, www.katowicedworzec.pl.

Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. Although the quality of the roads has improved greatly in the last decade, with the resurfacing of old roads and the addition of new expressways and motorways (a work still ongoing), aggressive and impatient driver behaviour still results in many accidents. Be cautious and keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front. The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. You can use your home driving license or an international driving permit for six months from the entry date on your passport. Carry your license and passport at all times when driving.

CAR RENTAL

Katowice is a straight 75km drive west from Kraków along the A4 highway, one of the better stretches of road in the country, but it’s smooth asphalt doesn’t come free. Toll gates can be found at either end at which you will need to pay 20zł if driving a car. This brings you in on Al. Górnośląska (J-5). The other major route in will bring you along route 79 onto ul. Chorzowska (B-1). Driving around Katowice can be a bit hellish for those uninitiated to the complexity of the city’s oneway streets and the constant presence of roadwork, so we recommend you ditch your vehicle at the earliest opportunity. Car crime is not unheard of and you’ll be safest leaving your ride in one of the guarded parking lots listed below. Street parking is also available and generally operates under the control of a local parking warden. He will be wandering along his patch wearing a bib of some colour checking to see who’s naughty and nice. Parking prices are 2 zł for the first hour, 2,40zł for the second hour, 2,80zł for the third and 2zł per hour after that. GUARDED PARKING QQ‑14, ul. Sikorskiego 20, tel. (+48) 660 78 85 51.

All most travellers need to rent a car in PL is 18 years of age, a credit card (not debit), and a valid foreign driver’s licence. Be aware, however, that those from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic (United States, China, Australia...) cannot legally drive on their home licences; technically an International Driver’s License is required in those cases. Though some rental companies (the dodgier ones) will still rent you a car, be aware that you are assuming full liability for any damages if you get behind the wheel; you also run the risk of getting a citation from the police for driving without a valid license. If you’re looking to leave the country, be aware that you can’t cross the Polish borders into Ukraine, Belarus or Lithuania in a rental car. AVIS Avis is Poland’s biggest car rental company and offers a complete range of vehicles for rent throughout Poland. They are located in the city center in Altus and at ul. Wolności 90, Pyrzowice (Airport), tel. (+48) 601 35 48 12. Open Mon-Fri 08:30-00:30, Sat & Sun 09:00-24:00.QO‑11, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32 257 20 70, www.avis. pl. Open 08:00-18:00; Sat 08:00-12:00; closed Sun. EUROPCAR Europcar offers a full range of vehicles from small hatchbacks, through Mercedes and up to mini-bus and vans. Check the website for additional offers. Also at ul. Wolności 90, Pyrzowice (Airport), tel. (+48) 32 285 50 41, Open 09:00-24:00.QM‑10, ul. Chorzowska 50, tel. (+48) 32 209 57 45, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. The offices can be staffed outside of these hours for extra payment. 18

Arrival & Transport

The Polish Fiat, or ‘Maluch’ - produced in PL from 1972-2000; considered a family car during the communist era.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

TAXIS

An extremely well developed system of trams and buses operated by the wonderfully named ZTM providing a simple and fast way of getting around Katowice and its surrounding towns, now all part of the Silesian Metropolis. The tickets for the network are valid for both buses and trams. A three-zone system is used, of which Katowice is in zone-one and Chorzów in zone-two. Accordingly, a one-zone ticket is required for the former and a two-zone ticket for travelling between the two. A one-zone ticket costs 3.20zł and now also serves as a 20 min ticket allowing you to swap forms of transport (bus to tram and onto a different tram for instance) within that time period. A two-zone ticket costs 3.80zł and also serves as a 40 min ticket. There is also a three-zone/ 90 min ticket available for 4.80zł. A 14zł 24hr ticket allows travel across the entire metropolitan area, though it’s hard to imagine getting your money’s worth out of this without spending the whole day on the tram.

Taxis are more honest than they were once were in Poland but it still pays to be on your guard especially when getting into a taxi at the main train station or airport. Make sure you choose a clearly marked taxi with a phone number displayed as well as a sticker showing its prices which you should find in the window. Check the price with the driver before setting off and make sure he turns his meter on. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a printed receipt for your journey. Most firms will charge you 7zł to get in and then a further 3zł per kilometre when travelling in the city. Travelling outside of city limits and at night is likely to cost up to 50% more than normal.

Almost all travel within Katowice and Chorzów can be accomplished using trams, most of which run through the new stops on the Rynek. Tram no.s 6, 11 and 19 run between the Rynek and Chorzów via Silesia Park and are the most useful trams for getting there and back. Tickets can be bought from any kiosk, or from bright yellow machines found at many tram stops around the city. Make sure you validate your ticket when entering the tram or bus. The penalty for riding without a validated ticket is 90zł (plus the price of the ticket) on the spot. (The normal price of the fine if you pay within 7 days is 125zł plus the price of the ticket.)

ENGLISH SERVICE TAXI This is a totally new standard of taxi service in Katowice. All of their experienced drivers are fluent in English and all of the taxis in their fleet are Audis and Mercedes. Of course each car also comes equipped with airconditioning, wi-fi and on board credit card terminals (Visa, Mastercard, American Express). Whether you are going to and from the airport or travelling to a meeting across town, your comfort and ease of travel is always paramount. So forget about being overcharged by a shady driver barking demands in languages you can’t understand. This is a taxi you can truly trust.QN‑10, tel. (+48) 607 61 51 21, www.etaxi.katowice.pl.

KATOWICE PUBLIC TRANSPORT COMPANY QN‑11, tel. (+48) 32 743 84 46, www.kzkgop.com.pl.

AIRPORT TAXI SERVICE Qtel. (+48) 784 84 68 66, www.taxipyrzowice.pl. CITY TAXI QN‑10, tel. (+48) 32 203 77 77, www.citytaxi.katowice.pl. ECHO TAXI QN‑10, tel. (+48) 32 201 42 00, www.echotaxi.com.pl.

-taxi

your english service taxi

City Basics Polish Facts & Language

The Polish language can feel like a maze, or an optical illusion at times... | © Alana de Haan

Some of you arriving in a new country may like to know some basic facts about the place. So, in a whirlwind: Poland covers an area of 312,685km2 and is the 9th largest country in Europe. Its population is 38,858,000 with Warsaw, the capital, being the largest city (1,763,615 inhabitants) and Katowice the 11th largest (295,449). The local currency is the Złoty (gold), with a 0.5L of beer costing you roughly 2.75zł in a shop and 10.00zł in a bar. Now that you’re here, attempting discourse in the Polish language can be intimidating, but fortunately most Poles have a healthy command of English. Still, learning some Polish phrases will smooth your time here and may even win you a few friends. On the downside, Polish is considered one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers. On the upside, words in Polish are actually pronounced the way they are spelled, so once you learn basic pronunciation, you’re on your way. We’ve listed the letters whose pronunciation diverges from English, and some basic words and phrases to get you started. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

BASIC PRONUNCIATION ‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled

POLISH WORDS & PHRASES

Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry

Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobry Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri) (Doh-bri vyeh-choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

My name is... I’m from England. Do you speak English? I don’t speak Polish. I don’t understand. Two beers, please. Cheers! Where are the toilets? You are beautiful. I love you. Please take me home. Call me!

Mam na imię... Jestem z Anglii Czy mówisz po angielsku? Nie mówię po polsku. Nie rozumiem. Dwa piwa proszę. Na zdrowie! Gdzie są toalety? Jesteś piękna. Kocham cię. Proszę zabierz mnie do domu. Zadzwoń do mnie!

(Mam nah ee-myeh…) (Yehstem zanglee) (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?) (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.) (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.) (Dvah peevah prosheh.) (Nah zdrovyeh!) (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.) (Ko-hahm chuh.) (Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.) (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

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Katowice Sightseeing Katowice, despite its recent architectural and cultural renaissance, can still only dream of achieving the enviable tourist status of neighbouring cities Kraków and Wrocław, which better fit the profile of a top European travel destination. In contrast, much of Katowice’s charm is in its complete non-conformity to that standard template for tourist appeal; here you won’t find a castle or palaces, no ancient ruins...no ‘Old Town,’ per say, no picturesque waterfront. What the region does possess, however (and which you won’t find in haughty Kraków), is a raft of odd and eclectic industrial heritage sites, as well as an increasing range of cultural venues and events which have earned Katowice status as a UNESCO City of Music. A blue collar city to this day, Katowice and its neighbouring cities in Upper Silesia were born into the working class, growing up during the Industrial Revolution and put to work in sooty mine shafts, factories and railway yards. The area’s history is inextricably entwined with the manufacture of coal and steel, and the stacks, shafts and massive waves of migrants that followed the discovery of the region’s mineral resources. Any mention of tourism in the district is usually preceded by the word, ‘industrial.’ Enthusiasts of this topic are advised to check out our Industrial Tourism section (p.48) but also to get their hands on a copy of Silesia’s Industrial Monuments Route, which is free in all Silesian tourist information offices, and while we’ve covered many of the entailed sites in this very guide, the region has plenty more to offer than we have space to include here.

Where once the land was potholed, there now stand architectural wonders. | © Alex Wiśniewski, courtesy of Katowice City Council

Katowice Sightseeing Industrially designed & thoroughly mined, Katowice is well and truly on its way to shaking its former reputation as an ugly city. Over the years this dynamic city has grown on us and we hope that it does the same to you. Read on to see what is waiting to be discovered.

After decades of decay, Katowice has undergone massive redevelopment in the post-communist era to become a growing business and cultural centre. Although there was a time, not long ago in fact, when being a tourist in this town was a very strange and lonely enterprise, the times have very much changed. Today Katowice’s city centre is packed with modern architecture, and filled with cafes, restaurants, pubs, clubs and shops to match all tastes. Those seeking more conventional interpretations of the word ‘attraction’ will find plenty of cleaned-up 19th century architecture in the form of handsome townhouses in Downtown Katowice (p.26), particularly along ulica 3-go Maja between the Rynek (p.26) and Plac Wolności (M-12). The Silesian Museum (p.31) - located on the site of the former Katowice Coal Mine - is one of the best museums in southern Poland, and forms the fulcrum of the city’s new Cultural Zone (p.30). Outdoor types can visit the fantastic Valley of Three Ponds (p.33) featuring everything from beaches to cycle paths; or head over to the vast Silesia Park (p.34), which is packed with family attractions (including an amusement park and zoo), and offers great views via the Elka Cableway (p.37). Finally, shutterbugs should visit Nikiszowiec (p.38) for its offbeat art, architecture and photo ops galore. We hope you embrace the city for its curiosities and use our guide to go out and enjoy yourself. And the next time you hear someone slagging off Katowice for its slag heaps and smokestacks, you set the record straight.

TOURIST INFO & TOURS If IYP’s authoritative print guide, exhaustive web portal (iyp.me/katowice) and handy mobile app (iyp.me/ app) just aren’t enough and you need someone to literally take you by the hand (hey, we kid), here are the best tourist resources in town. CITY INFORMATION OFFICE With a several-storey, blinking blue and yellow neon sign, Katowice’s City Information Office is hard to miss and isn’t it just downright adorable to see them trying so hard? The super-friendly staff can offer time-killing suggestions in English or German and they stock a range of materials about the many things you’ll probably never see or do across Silesia. Free maps and lots of information on daily cultural events, as well as three new computers.QN‑12, ul. Rynek 13, tel. (+48) 32 259 38 08, www.katowice.eu. Open 09:00-17:00; Sun 09:00-13:00. PTTK KATOWICE Feeling a bit lost or uncertain about Katowice? Take a guided tour with an English, German or Frenchspeaking guide and get an inside perspective on what Katowice has to offer (sometimes you need a second opinion). Demand for the service being what it is, dropping by the office won’t do; ring PTTK to make an arrangement and you’ll probably make their day as well. Services available year round.QN‑12, ul. Rynek 13, tel. (+48) 32 253 03 62, www.pttk.katowice.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat 09:15-16:00; closed Sun. SILESIATRIP.PL Silesia Trip is a useful and comprehensive way to comfortably explore much of the region around Katowice. Offering 24 hour pick-up services from both the Katowice and Kraków airports, Silesia Trip has a plethora of tours, locales, and sights included in their itineraries, including everyday trips to the Guido Mine, Auschwitz-Birkenau, Wieliczka Salt Mine, the historic silver mine in Tarnowskie Góry, Częstochowa, Trail of the Eagle’s Nest in the Jura Upland, the Queen Louise Adit in Zabrze and the Tyskie Brewery in Tychy. Tours are available in English, French, Italian, Polish, Spanish and Russian and are targeted for those who have a particular interest in the history, culture and people of Eastern Silesia. They also offer traditional tours with an audio guide starting from their brand new headquarters, info point and souvenir shop on ul. Mariacka. As of May, the same tours will be available on bike! Pick up some sweet Silesia swag and Katowice related gadgets before or after your trip or tour.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 11, tel. (+48) 502 11 63 31, www.katowice-tours.com. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-16:00; closed Sun. 25

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UL. MARIACKA This is Katowice’s main high street, located a mere 5 minute walk from the Rynek (market square), and arguably a better starting point for visitors than the city’s market square itself. It’s best to think of Mariacka as not only the central ‘strip’ of the city’s bar scene, but also a magnet for the surrounding area, which is a hotbed of pubs and clubs, cafes and restaurants. Charming, relatively calm and clean by day, at night Mariacka becomes a hotbed for partiers and anyone looking to feel the pulse of the city. In summer, there are beer gardens aplenty, and in winter,

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RYNEK (MARKET SQUARE) Until recently, one could easily be forgiven for standing in the middle of the market square and trying to find the market square. The construction works finished and the snazzy new Rynek 2.0 is complete with a flowing river, deck chairs, benches, and a spattering of flowers beds and trees. Before the massive overhaul (and we mean massive!), Katowice’s ‘Rynek’ was basically a large traffic roundabout and tram stop surrounded by a faded collection of mismatched buildings in architectural styles that had mostly fallen out of favour, if they ever engendered any enthusiasm to begin with. For years the city has known that turning its market square into, you know, an actual market square, would be a crucial step towards

becoming a respectable Polish city. A plan to modernise and pedestrianise the Rynek was put in place as far back as 2008. The first step was modernising the Soviet-era monstrosity at ul. Młyńska that uglied up an entire block of the Rynek, before they elegantly transformed it into the new modern City Hall.QN‑12, Rynek.

Katowice’s city centre was once a bleak, drab place. Just ten to fifteen years ago, early readers of this guide might find themselves standing near Katowice’s Rynek (market square) - which was nothing more than a giant roundabout - pondering what brought them there, questioning their very existence even, as rain poured down their faces.... Wake up from that frightful image! Kato’s city centre, though not exactly comparable to its more famous neighbouring city (K...Kra...yeah, that one), looks much better than it has ever looked before. And that sums up Katowice as a whole, which has undergone a huge regeneration in the last decade to become a post-industrial city of culture. The area around the Katowice train station, the main street - ul. Mariacka - full of bars and restaurants, all of them have been spruced up and no longer ooze with sadness (and urine) as you walk through. There’s plenty to see and do here, even if you’re only in the city for a short time. Read on for our recommendations.

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STREET ART Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with large-scale Polish advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality. In the last few years new street murals have become a common sight around Katowice. The best thing is that you can visit them anytime of year, wind, rain or shine - we recommend checking out the yearly plans for the Katowice Street Art Festival (AiR, for short), and you may be lucky to see some art being created. At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have little trouble tracking it down in Katowice as we have catalogued and GPSed pieces around the city. We’ve marked each place with a spray can symbol on the maps in our guide. Even if you’re only in the city for a short time, you can visit central locations, from the fantastic ‘Zachód Słońce’ (Sunset) neon sign above the River Rawa in the Rynek (N-12) to the crowning glory, ul. Mariacka Tylna (O-12) and the immediate surrounding area through the underpass and under the rail bridge, where there are more than enough murals by international and local artists to appease your appetite! From Belgium’s ROA, Spain’s ARYZ, and local Polish and Silesian talents Raspazjan and Mona Tusz, you won’t be disappointed with your walkabout. Happy hunting.

Rooster by ARYZ on ul. Mariacka Tylna.

despite the cold, people still flock here to get their drink on. Exactly 378m long, Mariacka was laid out in 1875 and stretches three city blocks before terminating at St. Mary’s Church (Kościół Mariacki), from which the street’s current name hails. Originally named Holtzestraße after local doctor, statesman and city co-founder Richard Holtze, the street has been known as ul. Mariacka since Katowice became part of Poland following WWI, with the exception of WWII, during which Holtze’s name was reinstated. Once lined with drab buildings and parked cars on both sides, but also littered with strip clubs and dubious massage parlours, in 2008 Mariacka was utterly transformed from a seedy side-street into the pedestrianised high street it is today, with new lamps and benches and a more modern aesthetic making way for a more classy crop of tenants. While some still complain that the sheer number of cheap bars in such a short stretch impacts the overall atmosphere of the street, the truth is that this is a street of two extremes. The western half, starting at ul. Mielęckiego, is where the majority of the bars are, whereas the closer you get to the church, the atmosphere gradually changes as nicer restaurants and cafes reign, providing a calmer, more pleasant experience.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka. KATOWICE HISTORICAL MUSEUM This outstanding museum showcasing some of the more interesting aspects of the life and times of the city and its people is divided into two main sections. You can wander the well conceived rooms on three floors including a superb recreation of house interiors of the middle and upper classes from 20, 50 and 100 years ago. The other main exhibit “Z dziejów Katowic” covers the breadth of the city’s early history before officially being founded. Entrance to the exhibit is limited to 15 people every half an hour, all descriptions are in English, and the films also have English subtitles. One of the best museums in southern Poland. QO‑13, ul. Szafranka 9, tel. (+48) 32 256 18 10, www. mhk.katowice.pl. Open 10:00-17:30; Tue, Thu 10:0015:00; Sat 10:00-16:00; Sun 11:00-15:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł, family ticket 20zł. Tue free. SILESIAN PARLIAMENT A standing testament to Katowice’s short-lived ‘golden age,’ the Silesian Parliament complex covers an entire city block between Jagiellońska, Reymonta, Ligonia and Lompy streets and was the largest structure in PL before Stalin

‘gifted’ Warsaw with a certain monstrosity. Completed in 1929, the Parliament complex served as the governing seat of Silesia after the province was inexplicably granted autonomy following WWI. Unfortunately Hitler failed to observe the region’s sovereignty when he reclaimed it for the Reich after a short 19 years of self-government. After WWII, the new Polish government stripped Silesia of its prestige, confused by how Katowice could possibly have ever been considered the second capital of PL. Today the Parliament buildings house the offices of the Silesian Voivodeship, though many have changed function and more still are solely occupied by wistful memories of bygone days.QN‑13, Plac Sejmu Śląskiego. KATOWICE MIASTO OGRODÓW To give it its full name, ‘Katowice Miasto Ogrodów im. Krystyny Bochenek’ (Katowice City of Gardens named in honour of Krystyna Bochenek) was founded in 2016 after the Katowice Institute of Culture merged with the Katowice Centre for Culture and is now located across from the Silesian Parliament. The centre has become a cultural hub focusing on funky art shows and music events taking place throughout the year. The Hipnoza jazz club bar and Strefa Centralna cafe are also located in the building. Checking out their events calendar online is a must.QN‑14, Pl. Sejmu Śląskiego 2, tel. (+48) 32 609 03 31, www.miasto-ogrodow.eu. Galleries open 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. BWA CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERY In Katowice since 1949, BWA showcase works by both established and budding young artists, exhibiting the most modern trends in contemporary art and promoting the work of local artists. The building the BWA is located in is just along from the Rynek (p.26) and is a typically brutal building inspired by socialist modernism - some may hate this style, but others may just love it. All works are spread out between independent spaces over two floors and a visit is a must if you wish to see what up and coming Silesian artists are producing after rolling up their sleeves...QN‑11, Al. Korfantego 6, tel. (+48) 32 259 90 40, www.bwa.katowice. pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 5.50/3zł. THE MODERNIST ARCHITECTURE TRAIL This one’s definitely for fans of architecture - take your kids on this trail at your own peril! The modernism movement was actually quite strong in Katowice during the interwar period of the 1920s and 30s, and beyond Gdynia, it was actually Katowice which was a bit of a hub for this functional movement, with buildings built which ranged from churches, public buildings to private residences. Starting in the city centre, you work your way outward (but not too far) and take in 16 buildings over a total distance of 5.5km, where you’ll see highlights such as the Silesian Parliament to Katowice’s very own 60m high cloud scraper (come on, it was considered huge when originally built!). We fully recommend getting yourself a leaflet with map from the city information office (p.25) on the corner of Katowice’s Rynek (p.26). Qwww.moderna.katowice.eu. 29

Cultural Zone

Cultural Zone INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS CENTRE The newest architectural jewel in Katowice’s eclectic crown and this one comes with lush green rooftop carpeting (keep off the grass!). And like any good carpet, it really ties the proverbial ‘room’ together (ie the Cultural Zone) by forming a highly functional and even elegant emerald ‘bridge’ between the socialist Sci-Fi Spodek and the more modernist NOSPR building. This huge multipurpose facility is more than just its mossy exterior though. With the capacity to accommodate 15,000 visitors, coupled with the Spodek Arena next door, it is one of the largest venues in Poland for conferences, exhibitions, trade fairs and sporting events.QO‑10, Plac Sławika i Antalla 1, tel. (+48) 32 438 40 30, www.mckkatowice.pl.

The true heart of Katowice. | Photo: Katowice City Council

The days of heavy industry in Katowice are over, and now, the beating heart of Silesia is found in its rich culture. Nowhere is this more visible than on the territory of the former Katowice Coal Mine, which has been drastically rejuvenated and redeveloped as part of the city’s official ‘Cultural Zone’ (Strefa Kultury). Linking the city centre’s iconic Spodek arena with the former pitheads of the Katowice mine, the Cultural Zone consists of four core venues: the other worldly Spodek; the pristine NOSPR (along with its outdoor amphitheatre), home to the Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra, as well as one of the best concert halls in Europe in terms of acoustic quality; the International Congress Centre, with its grass-covered rooftop from which you can view the Katowice skyline; and at the far end of zone, the fantastic Silesian Museum situated 13m underground in the former coal mine. The addition of these buildings has not only visually and architecturally enriched a once potholed moonscape, but packed the cultural calendar with high-calibre events attended by thousands throughout the year, the highlight arguably being the Tauron New Music Festival each summer.

Spodek

SPODEK In 1958 the Association of Polish Architects ran a competition to design a new stadium in Katowice. Won by a Warsaw company and designed by Maciej Gintowt and Maciej Krasiński, the resulting Wojewódzka Hala Widowiskowo-Sportowa w Katowicach (translating something like ‘Katowice Province Spectator & Sports Arena’) was built in stages between 1964 and 1971, and at 246,624 square metres is the one of the largest, certainly one of the strangest and, to some, the most beautiful piece of reinforced concrete in Poland. Nicknamed ‘Latający Spodek’ (Flying Saucer) the building was originally going to be built in Silesia Park but because of its avant-garde appearance finally landed in the city centre. Holding 11,000 people part of the building was in use in 1969, though the grand opening only took place on May 9, 1971. The reason for this delay was simple – in their wisdom the designers had picked a landsite suffering ‘medium mine damage’. That meant the possibility of cave-ins and collapse so the building was road-tested by 3,500 stamping (and dare we say it, nervous) soldiers. Given the thumbs-up by equally relieved engineers the building has been inspiring and amusing people ever since. A popular sporting venue, Spodek is also Katowice’s number one place for international concerts, having hosted a disparate collection of stars including Metallica and Depeche Mode. Today it also houses the Diament Spodek Hotel, and according to urban legend, the classic tune from Spielberg’s ‘Close Encounters of the Third Kind’ plays every time the building’s lights go on.QO‑10, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 438 40 30, www.spodekkatowice.pl.

NOSPR - POLISH NATIONAL RADIO SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA Considered the leading Polish orchestra, the Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra (NOSPR) was founded in 1935 in Warsaw. As a cultural ambassador representing Poland on the international art scene, it has cooperated with some of the greatest composers of the second half of the 20th century presenting first performances of their works. In 2014 Katowice celebrated the unveiling of its newest architectural and cultural jewel - the new headquarters of the NOSPR. Not only is this one of the more striking and architecturally astonishing buildings to be built in Poland in recent years, it is also one of the most acoustically pristine performance halls in all of Europe. To perfect the pin drop precision of the main hall’s acoustics, the Katowice based Architecture firm Konior collaborated with Yasushisa Toyota - founder of the Japanese Acoustics solutions company Nagata Acoustics (creators of the Walt Disney Hall in Los Angeles, among others). Their collaboration resulted in a sonically rich and visually stunning performance hall that can seat over 1,800 people with no obstructed views. The main concert hall is also equipped with cutting edge technology to both broadcast concerts live and record multi track albums live. This is truly a building fitting of Poland’s finest orchestra and is set to solidify Katowice’s place in the classical

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music world. Check NOSPR’s website for concert tickets or plan your next trip to Katowice around a trip to this absolute shrine of a Symphony Hall. The ticket box office is open Tue-Sat 10:00 - 20:00 and on Sun 2 hours before a performance.QO‑10, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, www.nospr.org.pl. U SILESIAN MUSEUM The grand opening of the brand new home of the Silesian Museum is perhaps the biggest of Katowice’s recent investment unveilings. The museum’s scope, quality of the permanent exhibitions and the architectural prowess of the newly adapted subterranean chambers are all equally impressive. Approaching the Silesian Museum from the city centre, the first visible element of the museum is the prominent mine shaft hoist tower of the former Katowice Coal Mine. There are dozens of such towers spread all over Silesia, many of which remain operational. This particular mine shaft hoisted its last load of black diamonds in 1999 when the entire mine complex was closed for good after operating for 176 years and hauling over 120 million tonnes of coal! Today, this impressive steel structure has been adapted into an elevator-accessible viewing tower which offers spectacular views of Katowice and other close-lying Silesian suburbs (open dependent on weather conditions). The next striking feature you will notice are the large transparent glass buildings that cover the entire expanse of terrain. Their presence offers a thoroughly modern counterpoint to the 18th century historical buildings which make up the rest of the museum’s exhibition space. There are six main ‘buildings’ (both old and new) that make up the Silesian Museum campus, a few of which have yet to be opened to the public. Descending into the subterranean chambers of the Silesian Museum the impressive interiors open up before your eyes. The main museum is spread out over four underground levels and has a floor area of nearly 25,000 m², of which 6,000 m² is devoted to exhibition space (both permanent and temporary) - all of which has been adapted from the former tunnels, shafts and workshops of the former mine.QP‑11, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, www.muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 24/16zł. Family & group tickets available. Tue free. 31

Southern Katowice

Southern Katowice SILESIAN FREEDOM & SOLIDARITY CENTRE This museum is a dedication to, and indeed a memorial, to the events surrounding 16 December 1981, known as the ‘Pacification of Wujek.’ Shortly after Martial Law was declared in Poland on 13 December 1981 by General Wojciech Jaruzelski, workers at the famous Wujek mine went on strike and were immediately met with a brutal show of force, which left nine dead. The museum itself has one permanent exhibition - ‘the Memorial Room of Wujek Coal-mine’, and uniquely, the guides themselves are former workers of the mine that took part in the protest. English speaking guides are on offer, however, you must call in advance to arrange.QH‑16, ul. Wincentego Pola 38, tel. (+48) 32 601 21 08, www.scwis.pl. Open 09:00-15:00; Tue, Thu 09:00-17:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.

The Valley of Three Ponds is a great place to relax. Or listen to loud music festivals... | Photo: Radoslaw Kazmierczak

If the hustle and bustle of urban exploration is not your thing, there’s always the relative calm, relaxation and leisure possibilities to be found in the south of the city. Fear not, it’s not too far from the centre at all - only 15 minutes by bike, 10 by bus; in fact the huge Katowice Forest Park is within city limits, as well as the Valley of Three Ponds with its fantastic spaces for beach lounging in summer, cycling, skating and jogging anytime of the year, a seasonal bar, and a waterpark for the kids. If all this sounds a bit too noisy for you, there’s always the enjoyment of relaxing in the squirrel-filled Tadeusz Kościuszko Park with child play areas, the famous Parachute Tower and plenty of quiet areas to just enjoy some silence. If history is your thing, check out the Silesian Solidarity and Freedom Centre, which is focused on the events surrounding the pacification of the Wujek Mine. Muchowiec Airport is also nearby; although mainly used for training pilots, sightseeing tours of Katowice can be arranged.

Tadeusz Kościuszko Park

Photo: UMK

TADEUSZ KOŚCIUSZKO PARK The most central of Katowice’s parks, though it gets outmuscled in acreage by the Silesia Park and Katowice Forest Park, Kościuszko Park is still an impressively sizeable 72 hectares. Starting life as a mere six-hectare municipal wooded park way back in 1888 the park has grown in size and variety and now features over 90 species of trees and shrubs including linden, beech, cherry, rhododendrons and azaleas. There are also classic English gardens including an avenue of roses and typical English flower beds. Other features include sculptures by local artists, the gorgeous wooden Church of St. Michael the Archangel, and the extraordinary Parachute Tower close to its southern border. Allegedly the only thing of its kind in the country, it was on top of this tower that a group of Polish scouts attempted to defend the city from the Germans on September 4, 1939. A small monument next to it marks the event.QK‑16, ul. Kościuszki. PARACHUTE TOWER Originally 50 metres tall, the parachute tower was built in 1937 for the training of parachute jumpers, however it found its place in the Polish national consciousness when for two days in 1939, Silesian scouts defended the city of Katowice from this tower. Exchanging fire with German troops into the evening of September 4th, the tower was finally destroyed when the foul-playing Germans used an antitank gun to rid themselves of the darn kids. The tower that stands in the park now is a 35m reconstruction of the original and the only parachute tower in Poland today. The scout’s heroic defence of the tower, doomed as it was, grew so legendary that it became the literary subject of poems and songs. A granite obelisk commemorates their brief but noble ascent into adulthood atop that fabled tower. QK‑16, Park Tadeusza Kościuszki.

KATOWICE FOREST PARK Occupying a whopping 420 hectares of land between the train tracks, highways, coal mines, airports, apartment blocks and other signifiers of Silesian sprawl that shape its boundaries, this predominantly wooded wilderness just south of the city centre is the best place in Katowice to convince yourself you are not in Katowice. Within Forest Park’s protected natural area territory, which includes Valley of Three Ponds, you’ll find miles of marked trails through woods full of deer and wild boar, ponds in which you can swim, sail or fish, places to eat, a campground, dozens of sculptures, gardens and more. This is a perfect place for walks (especially for the outdoor types!) anytime of the year. To get there catch buses 674 or 910 to Osiedle Paderewskiego Trzy Stawy shopping mall near Valley of Three Ponds.QN‑19, os. Paderewskiego-Muchowiec. VALLEY OF THREE PONDS If you’ve ever been to that other Polish city beginning with a K, you may have noticed the riverfront is a popular place for locals to go hang out. In Kato things are no different. Although the river in the centre is nothing to boast about, slightly south you will find the city’s most popular recreation area - Valley of Three Ponds. First established as a 125 hectare leisure space in

Learn about the pacification of the wujek mine in the Freedom & Solidarity Centre

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

Photo courtesy of Sztauwajery

SZTAUWAJERY Be quick to get to Sztauwajery (Silesian translation of Valley of Three Ponds) or you may just miss it! This pop-up bar made from shipping containers is found near the main entry point to the Valley of Three Ponds and is pretty much a seasonal affair available until the end of summer. It is directly connected to the Tauron New Music Festival, indeed, the whole venture is in place thanks to the Tauron organisers, which means it’s a great place to relax but also see some musical events. You can choose to lounge around in deck chairs, enjoy some refreshments, or go one step further and order up some seasonal bites. Don’t miss out, go if you can!QR‑16, ul. Pułaskiego 71, tel. (+48) 516 44 72 45, www. festiwalnowamuzyka.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. BE6 the 1960s before being absorbed into the 420 hectare Katowice Forest Park which today surrounds the small Muchowiec airfield south of the centre. Though ‘Valley of Three Ponds’ is generally applied to all woodless areas surrounding ul. Trzech Stawów and Forest Park’s 11 (not 3) ponds, the name technically refers to the smaller, more cultivated area located just beyond. In this vicinity you’ll find a seasonal campground, tennis courts and a fine restaurant (Pan de Rossa) with inspiring views overlooking the water. Of the ponds in the immediate vicinity, the most popular has a beach for bathing, another is reserved for water sports, and several are available for fishing. The entire park is also full of trails, making it a popular place for cyclists and joggers. In the summer months, it’s also a great place for kids to visit with its outdoor water park. Most easily accessed by bike (see City by Bike, p.42) or instead take buses 674 or 910 from the centre, getting off at the Trzy Stawy shopping mall. It’s a short walk east from there.QS‑16, ul. Trzech Stawów. 33

Silesia Park

Silesia Park Aside from perhaps Warsaw, Upper Silesia, and particularly its ‘capital’, Katowice, has always felt like the region of Poland most buggered by the communists. The scars are dotted around from the severe socialist apartment complexes to the towering smokestacks. However, Poland’s communist regime was not completely without forward vision and only a few years after ‘inheriting’ the stripped industrial wastes of Upper Silesia after World War II, party leaders earmarked a vast 620 hectare plot on the borderlands of Katowice and Chorzów with the intention of creating the largest urban park in Europe. The land in question was far from an untouched patch of wilderness. On the contrary, the designated area was 75 percent devastated by mining and industrial waste, with the rest being undesirable marshland and dead trees. Under the direction of local hero Jerzy Ziętek, an important Silesian Insurrectionist turned politician, work began as early as 1950 on what was known as the Provincial Park of Culture and Recreation (Wojewódzki Park Kultury i Wypoczynku or WPKiW): one of the most ambitious and pioneering environmental renewal projects ever undertaken in Europe.

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In 1989, when the regime crumbled, the park began a period of stagnation. However, since it became a public enterprise subsidised by the state budget in 2003, it has re-established itself as one of southern Poland’s biggest attractions. The last several years have seen an official name change to the much more parsable ‘Silesia Park,’ world-class rides added to the Legendia amusement park, as well as the opening of parks for more popular modern pursuits including the rope park and dirt bike course. Silesian Stadium (Stadion Śląski) has been totally modernised, and numerous restaurants, cafes, bars and hotels continue to open in and around the park.

Getting to Silesia Park from Katowice is as easy as hopping on a tram or bus (tram being the fastest). There are four tram and bus stops along the course of the park: ‘Park Śląski Wesołe Miasteczko’ (amusement park), ‘Park Śląski Ogród Zoologiczny’ (the zoo), ‘Park Śląski Wejście Główne’ (main entrance) and ‘Chorzów Stadion Śląski’ (Silesian Stadium). Take trams 6, 11 or 19; or buses 6, 820, 830 or 840 (getting off at Park Śląski Ogród Zoologiczny). Chorzów is in zone 2 of Katowice’s public transport system so we recommend getting a 3,80zł zone 2 ticket which will get you to the park comfortably and beyond. ROSARIUM Polish girls love flowers and you can be sure more than a few miner’s daughters have been proposed to in here. One of the largest rose gardens in Europe, Chorzów’s Rosarium was founded in 1968 in concert with the First International Rose Exhibition. Today the park’s collection includes some 35,000 rose bushes of over 280 different varieties. Very impressive in spring and summer, and an obvious date destination whether it’s botany you’re interested in or the birds and the bees.QH‑6, Promenade Gen. Jerzego Ziętka, Chorzów, www.parkslaski.pl. Open from April October from 09:00 am until dusk. Admission free. SILESIAN ROPE PARK Give yourself a new high navigating this awesome ropes park in the Silesia Park. Nicknamed ‘The Furnace’, the park offers an adrenaline-boosting and safe challenge for everyone thanks to a brief training, helmets and harnesses. Three prepared routes of varying difficulty plus a special mini route designed for children ages 3-7 and a climbing wall. In total the routes run a total of 620 metres with 49 obstacles, 36 platforms and no less than eight thrilling zip-lines.QJ‑6, Silesia Park, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 509 34 34 41, www.slaskiparklinowy.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. 10zł per mini-park. TODDLER route (green) 22zł (2 passes) ages 8+, MEDIUM route (yellow) 25zł (1 pass) ages 14+, DIFFICULT route (red) 40zł (1 pass) ages 18+.

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In typical party fashion, Silesia’s working class was strongly encouraged to participate in the creation of this ‘people’s park’ - industrial workers to school children joined in the digging and planting of an astounding 3.5 million trees and shrubs in the first year alone, as the project moved forward at a record pace. In total 3.5 million tonnes of soil were moved to shape the area of the park, and 500,000 cubic metres of humus used to fertilise it. After completing the rehabilitation of the landscape, the park committee systematically set about establishing a series of attractions in the vast space of WPKiW, including an amusement park, zoo, planetarium (currently closed for renovation), narrow-gauge railway, the Silesian Stadium, Elka cableway and others as the park developed intensively in the 1950s-70s.

GETTING THERE

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NARROW GAUGE RAILROAD Constructed in 1957, this cute miniature railway still shuttles families from the amusement park to the Zoo along the scenic 1km route. Inexplicably popular. One way tickets are 4/3zł and return 7/5zł. Check Silesia Park’s website for updates to service availability.QH‑8, www.parkslaski.pl. Open from May through Autumn. .

Narrow Gauge Railroad

Silesia Park LEGENDIA AMUSEMENT PARK Opened in 1959, Poland has yet to build a larger amusement park than this dated wonder in Chorzów. If you’re a fan of old amusement parks like Vienna’s Prater, you’ll get a kick out of this product of a bygone era which features some rides and amusements that literally date back 50 years, among them a drenching water ride, haunted house ride and a couple twirling whirligig rides. The park is currently undergoing a revamp so there are plenty of more modern thrills to get excited about, including the ‘Tornado’ - one of the highest, fastest rollercoasters in PL, with two 360 degree loops. There are 40 attractions in all and your admission fee is good for all of them, as many times as you want, until the park closes for the evening. Overall it’s a fun outing, in turns amusing, amazing and depressing; one of a kind at any rate.QH‑7, Plac Atrakcji 1, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 666 03 11 96, www.legendia.pl. All day tickets for kids (6-12 years old) and seniors (60+ years old) is 59zł. All day tickets for kids (12+) and for Adults is 79zł. Children under 3 years old 1zł. SILESIAN STADIUM Originally opened with much propagandist fanfare as a symbol of Poland’s post-war ‘rebirth’ in 1956, this Social Realist behemoth was the region’s premiere sports arena for decades. Famously described by visiting journalists as the ‘Witches Cauldron,’ Silesian Stadium held over 100,000 people before proper safety standards came into place, and was the largest venue in the country. Such memorable footballing nights as when Poland beat the USSR here in 1957, an impressive run for Górnik Zabrze in the European Cup Winners’ Cup in 1969/70 season, and most memorably, when Poland beat England here in 1973 as part of World Cup Qualifying. Not only was the stadium used for football but Speedway too, and it was here in 1973 (a good year for the stadium!) that the Individual Speedway World Championship final was won by Pole Jerzy Szczakiel (the first Pole to win, and to date, one of only two!). From 1993 until only recently it was the official home of the Polish national team, while also hosting concerts by über-groups like U2 and the Rolling Stones. With the spate of new stadiums built across PL for the Euro 2012 football championships, Silesian Stadium’s status diminished for a time until October 2017 when it was

Silesia Park will be thoroughly enthralled thanks to a petting zoo and Dinosaur Valley, which features some rather silly concrete dinos. Feeding times in the warmer months for red pandas daily at 13:30, pelicans 10:00 and brown bears Tue, Thu & Sat at 14:00.QH‑5, Promenade Gen. Jerzego Ziętka 7 (Park of Culture & Recreation, Chorzów), tel. (+48) 666 03 14 96, www.zoo.silesia.pl. Open 09:0019:00. 1 Oct - 31 Oct: 09:00-17:00. Tickets 20/10zł, family 50zł.

Ethnographic Park

officially reopened following extensive modernisation. It now has a 54,378-fan capacity (85,000 for concerts!) which features a new roof and athletic track. There are also 25 VIP boxes, 1777 business class spaces and 106 disabled seating spaces. Guided tours take place every 2 hours (lasting 2 hours), Mon-Fri at 08:00, 10:00, 12:00 and 14:00. At the weekends, tour are at 10:00, 12:00, 14:00 and 16:00 on Sat & Sun. It’s best to call in advance if you wish to book an English speaking tour.QE‑3, ul. Katowicka 10, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 348 27 90, www. stadionslaski.pl. Tickets 10zł/5zł. Kids under 3 go free. UPPER SILESIAN ETHNOGRAPHIC PARK This fantastic open-air folk park presents rural Silesian life through its aged architectural monuments. Since the late 60s, Chorzów’s ‘skansen’ has been rescuing endangered or forgotten Silesian structures by hoisting them up and dropping them in this makeshift village laid out over 20 hectares of idyllic countryside. Grouped into six ethnographic regions, visitors explore some 100 buildings dating from the late 18th to early 20th century, including traditional thatched-roof homes, granaries, historic wooden churches, wayside shrines and windmills (please note, on Mondays, you can only walk around them without entering). Many of the buildings are open with indoor exhibits and an informative staff on hand. There’s even an old karczma (inn) where you can get a bite to eat and a beer. One of the farms even has a few goats, sheep and horses, adding some extra magic to this romantic village of architectural artefacts saved from extinction. Although currently undergoing renovation, you can still walk around the park, with works set to be completed by May 2019.QD‑2, ul. Parkowa 25, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 241 07 18, www. muzeumgpe-chorzow.pl. Open 09:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00. 1 Sep - 30 Sep: 09:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00. Admission 10/7zł. Children under 3 enter for free. Mon free. SILESIAN ZOO Located in Silesia Park, PL’s largest zoo is a massive 50 hectare extravaganza with 2,465 animals of 390 species from all over the world, including crowd favourites such as rhinos, Siberian tigers and cheetahs. The kids

ELKA CABLEWAY So you’ve arrived at Silesia Park and you realise just how big the whole place really is. You now have a choice walk, find a city bike, take the narrow gauge railroad or, to get a birds eye view, take the Elka Cableway, carrying you conveniently from one end of the park to the other in 40 minutes (a distance of 2185 metres!), and you’ll get some absolutely great views on the way in your choice of an 8-person cabin or a 4-person chair. Tickets can be purchased from ticket machines at either Point A, found at Legendia Amusement Park, or Point B, at the Silesian Stadium. Adults pay 10zł one way, 15zł return. Kids aged 3-16 and those with a disability pay 8zł one way, 12zł return. The last journey of the day leaves 15mins before closure.QI‑7, Promenade Gen. Jerzego Ziętka, Chorzów, www.elka.parkslaski.pl. Thu 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Opening hours are subject to change in summer to 11:00-20:00. Please check their website for more information. SILESIA PARK MURALS If the size of Silesia Park is a little bit daunting to you and you want to catch your breath, then sitting on a bench is certainly an option, or perhaps, you could view an outdoor street art gallery - murals, to be precise, along a long outer wall of the Silesian Zoo. Here you will find a whole selection of works by various artists, including local Silesian artists MiszMasz, Mona Tusz and Raspazjan, with some depicting animals in the zoo, others just bright and colourful artistic expressions. It’s well worth seeing and is located in the heart of the park, just off the main walkway, which is marked on our Silesia Park map (p.32) with a spray can symbol. .QI‑6, Aleja Leśna.

EAT & DRINK CAFÉ CHOPIN A comfortable, classy café off Chorzów’s high street (not far at all from Silesia Park), Cafe Chopin makes a perfect diversion for those with a sweet tooth. Serving decent coffee, good cakes and deliciously extravagant ice cream concoctions, chocolate is a proven pacifier of the stress attributed to a trip to Chorzów, so we suggest you take a time-out here. The spirits, beer and fresh squeezed juices will also do the job.QA‑1, ul. Wolności 18, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 241 43 43, www. cafechopin.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. UBE6 RESTAURACJA CESARSKA Not much surprise that in Chorzów’s finest hotel you would also find its finest restaurant. Wonderfully elegant French interiors feature pristine antique furnishings with a few columns and credenzas to match the fine table settings. The menu of Mediterranean and Polish dishes is such a masterpiece that it even makes delicacies out of the local Silesian fare. The desserts are also to die for. Very impressive start to finish.QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 35, Chorzów (Diament Arsenal Palace Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 606 84 84, www.restauracja-cesarska.pl. Open 12:0022:00. €€€. TUB RESTAURACJA ŁANIA It’s easy enough to get lost in Silesia Park (which is why we included a map in our guides!), but if you do happen to wander off into the wilderness, if you stumble out of the shrubs and into Łania, you’ll have done not bad at all! Here since 1951, this was once a place only for Communist party delegates and international visitors, with previous guests including Charles de Gaulle and Leonid Brezhnev. Now open to the public, this restaurant, styled like a hunter’s lodge serves up some fine Polish and Silesian dishes. The setting is almost serene, with outdoor grilling area and patio looking out onto a pond. A nice secluded restaurant right in the heart of Silesia’s biggest park.QH‑3, Aleja Łani 1, www.lania.pl. VILLA GARDENA Villa Gardena is a jewel in Silesia Park’s crown, with a seasonal menu offering up inspired dishes as well as fiery fish fillets and assorted steaks hot off the grill. The expansive menu doesn’t make your life easy as each page unfurls mouth watering dishes. We recommend trying one of their superb aged steaks. They also have an extensive wine menu and their experienced waiters will help you pair with whatever main you choose. Desserts are equally distinguished.QI‑2, al. Planetarium 1, tel. (+48) 32 725 05 05, www. restauracjavillagardena.pl. Open 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€€. TUB 37

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Nikiszowiec

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WHAT TO SEE Begin your adventure by hopping on a bus to the Wilson Shaft Gallery. From the Wilson Gallery it is a short eight minute walk (or one bus stop) down ul. Szopienicka into Nikiszowiec proper; you’ll know it by its uniquely uniform architecture, gruesome water tower, leering smokestacks and the church spire marking its centre. Make a left onto ul. Zofii Nałkowskiej (towards Eurohotel and the ice rink complex) and then your first right to officially enter the district on ul. Rymarska and you’ll pass the Tourist Information Office inside the Industrial Ethnography Museum. Special mention goes to ul. Czechowa which can be described as the artistic heart of Nikiszowiec, with galleries and workshops found here.

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Only 8km/20mins from Katowice’s city centre, getting to Nikiszowiec is simple. There are four bus options numbers 30 (every 30 mins) and 920 (every 30/60 mins) travel from Al. Korfantego in front of the Katowice Hotel (N-11), with the no.30 going straight to Nikiszowiec’s ‘Szyb Wilson’ stop (near Wilson Shaft Gallery), and the 920 taking a longer route to the ‘Szyb Pułaski’ stop via Giszowiec. From Katowice Dworzec (M-12) bus no. 674 (every 30 mins) also goes to the ‘Szyb Pułaski’ stop via Giszowiec, while bus no. 930 (every hour, from Katowice Dworzec and Al. Korfantego) goes directly to Nikiszowiec’s main square the ‘Nikiszowiec Kościół’ stop. All stops are within Zone 1 of Katowice’s public transport network, so you only need a normal 3.20zł fare ticket.

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GETTING THERE

Built between 1908 and 1912 to house workers in the backyard of their place of employment – the large smoke-churning Wieczorek (formerly ‘Giesche’) coal mine – the enclosed residential complex of Nikiszowiec is composed of six compact four-sided three-storey blocks with inner courtyards. Distinguished by its uniformity of style – red brick buildings accented with red-painted windowframing, and narrow streets joined by handsome arcades – the neighbourhood was designed by Georg and Emil Zillman of Berlin-Charlottenburg to be a completely self-sufficient community for 1,000 workers with a school, hospital, police station, post office, swimming pool, bakery and church. Thanks to WWI and the subsequent Silesian Uprisings – during which time Nikiszowiec saw fierce fighting, and was afterwards incorporated into Poland – St. Anne’s Church (Pl. Wyzwolenia 21) wasn’t able to be finished until 1927, but became the crowning glory of the neighbourhood as soon as it was. Though it would ironically seem to be a socialist planners’ wet dream, Nikiszowiec actually makes a happy, handsome departure from downtown Katowice and has become a prized location for amateur photographers and budding filmmakers due to the fact that it has remained virtually unchanged since the Second World War. City marketers have also recognised the district’s uniqueness with increasing efforts to draw tourist attention to the area and a long campaign afoot to fasten Nikiszowiec to the UNESCO Heritage List. Though the district is generally safe to wander, you should still exercise sensible precautions about where you stick both your nose and that fancy new digital camera; and who you do it in front of.

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The former workers’ district of Nikiszowiec is home to some highly unique early 20th century architecture as well as an excellent modern art gallery, a magnificent church and a few additional offbeat attractions. This forgotten attempt at plebeian paradise is earmarked on Silesia’s ‘Industrial Monuments Route’(available at all Silesian tourist information offices) and offers intrepid visitors a confounding, yet fascinating glimpse at a foregone age. While not long ago a walk around the neighbourhood may have been a dicey prospect, cafes and culture are now beginning to creep into this part of town and you’re no longer likely to be the only tourist prowling around. Perfect for a photo essay, charge up your camera battery and off you go.

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Nikiszowiec | Photo courtesy of Katowice City Council

1 WILSON SHAFT GALLERY This seemingly obscure and certainly under appreciated modern art gallery is arguably Katowice’s best art space and one of the primary highlights of a trip to Nikiszowiec. Located in the pithead building and bathhouse of the old Wilson shaft of the Wieczorek mine, the buildings now occupied by the gallery date back to 1918, and were designed by the same Zillman brother tandem behind the Nikiszowiec housing district. The dilapidated mineshaft, where excavations began back in 1864, can still be seen in glorious ruin behind the gallery buildings, having ceased operation in 1997. The area is now filled with exhibition and office space, and brightly-painted outdoor sculptures in sharp contrast to the industrial surroundings, as well as a muraled entrance wall full of colourful pop culture icons (making it hard to miss). Not only is admission free but the mini-buffet is a great option for breakfast or lunch (Mon - Fri 08:00 - 16:00). QZ‑14, ul. Oswobodzenia 1 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 730 32 20, www.szybwilson.org. Open 09:0019:00. Admission free.

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Wilson Shaft Gallery

2 ST. ANNE’S CHURCH A welcome diversion from the smokestacks dominating the roofline of the district’s other side, this magnificent building incorporates Baroque design with two bell towers and a timepieced steeple, while blending into its surroundings without any of the ghastly and gratuitous exterior decoration associated with the style; make sure you take a stroll down ul. Św. Anny for the most photogenic views. If you’re lucky enough to get inside, take notice of the amazing 5,350 pipe organ and highly ornate Zillman chandelier. Please be respectful though and no visiting during masses.QY‑16, Pl. Wyzwolenia 21 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 356 96 22, www.sw-anna.wiara.org.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 14:00-16:00.

Nikiszowiec EAT & DRINK Once a food desert, when we first wrote about Nikiszowiec we encouraged visitors to pack a lunch, but today there are several quality places for drinking and dining in the neighbourhood. ŚLĄSKA PROHIBICJA Up until recently in Nikiszowiec, there were only cafes to eat in should you get peckish, but that has now changed with the opening of Śląska Prohibicja (Silesian Prohibition). Going with a modern take on 1920s decor, this is a building with a whopping 700m2 of space across 5 rooms (one main area and 4 smaller rooms that accommodate 50-60 people); not just for restaurant use, but also for events such as weddings, and even musical performances (which take place Fri/Sat evenings and Sun lunchtime). Fans of gastronomy will be eager to know that the head chef is Magdalena Nowaczewska, winner of the 5th edition of Poland’s Master Chef, and it shows, for the food (taking inspiration from international and regional cuisine) is delightfully prepared, with the taste matching the appearance. A fantastic addition to this charming part of Katowice.QY‑16, ul. Krawczyka 1 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 723 28 99, www. slaskaprohibicja.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:0024:00. €€€. TUBE CAFE BYFYJ This is the heart and soul of Nikiszowiec. Grab a table inside in the bright white and soft light interior, or outside on their breezy bricked terrace (with all year gas heater should it get cold!). The friendly waitstaff will take it from there and catch you up on all the savoury and sweet options from cakes, tarts, pizzas and daily lunch specials. Don’t overlook the beverages because they serve up some of the best coffee drinks around, not to mention organic juices, cool-colas, beers (low alko % as well) and prosecco. Above all, come to Byfyj for the ambience and start to get a knack for what Niki’s really all about. Opening hours subject to change.QY‑16, ul. Krawczyka 5 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 696 73 08 01, www.piekarniamichalski.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-22:00; closed Mon. TUB6i ZILLMANN TEA & COFFEE Named after the designers of the neighbourhood, this sophisticated cafe and drink bar brings a bit of class to Niki’s central square. The exposed brick and dark wood interiors correspond swimmingly to the hushed and jazzy atmosphere that almost demands liquid companionship. Whether you stop in for a morning cappuccino and cake, ice-cream or you slip in to sip a local microbrew in the afternoon, Zillmann will accommodate you quite nicely. Classy glass and shiny brass for the working class.QY‑16, Pl. Wyzwolenia 3/1 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 708 25 74. Open 11:0021:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. TB6 40

Nikiszowiec

Courtesy of Katowice City Council

3 CENTRUM ZIMBARDO

Centrum Zimbardo is one part of Stowarzyszenie Fabryka Inicjatyw Lokalnych (FIL Association), a nonprofit organisation founded in 2009 by a group of local friends who wanted to improve things in Nikiszowiec, all borne of a passion for their district, Silesian culture, history and traditions. Not only does the association organise local events, such as concerts and markets, educational programmes and conferences, but Centrum Zimbardo provide guided tours for people wishing to visit the area, going into detail about the revitalisation of the area and the socio-economic history. Tours cost 170zł up to groups of 25 and it is necessary to book in advance by phone or via email - fil@fil.org. pl. Zimbardo is a great local project which connects you to the area by means of 1st hand accounts of life in Niki - it’s genuine and should be supported. Check their site for any updated opening hours.QY‑16, Plac Wyzwolenia 5, tel. (+48) 664 22 20 44, www.centrumzimbardo.pl. Open 12:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00. 4 INDUSTRIAL ETHNOGRAPHY MUSEUM This branch of the Katowice Historical Museum is unique in its emphasis on ethnography and folk culture, approaching the topic from an urban, rather than rural, perspective. A collection of artefacts and cultural assets tells the everyday stories of Upper Silesia’s working class (primarily miners) from the period of early industrial development (mid-19th century) to the 1960s. They have three permanent exhibitions on display. The first is devoted to the Janowska Group - a collection of Nikiszowiec miners including Teofil Ociepka, Paweł Wróbel, Erwin Sówka and Ewald Gawlik who gained renown for their ‘naive’ painting. Another exhibit is a replication of a typical Nikiszowiec worker’s house. The final exhibit goes even deeper and delves into the various laundering techniques used in the district’s heyday (it’s more interesting than it sounds and has English titles). The helpful Nikiszowiec Information Centre (open 10:00 - 17:30; Sat 11:00 - 14:30; closed Mon, Sun) is also in the same building, where you can get advice, pick up maps of the district and free audioguides in English, Polish or German.QY‑16, ul. Rymarska 4 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 353 95 59, www.mhk.katowice.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-15:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł.Tue free. U

Kids & Families

Activities & Experiences

enture! v d a n w o r u o Choose y

Poland Kids In & Families Your Pocket Shop

If you’re looking for a more alternative way to see and experience Upper Silesia, or simply enjoy letting ‘the pros’ organise your time, check out the ideas below. More online at iyp.me/polandshop

iyp.me/polandshop

ARTHOUSE CINEMAS KATOWICE

KOLEJKOWO - A WONDERFUL WORLD IN MINIATURE

If you prefer going for the feel of independent communal cinemas halls, rather than the commercial feel of a cinema chain, then arthouse cinemas are the way to go. The arthouse cinema network is strong in Poland, and Katowice has its fair share of them run by Silesia Film, where you can watch high quality artistic movies, both International and Polish, from fiction to educational. While in Katowice, you have a choice of three great cinemas to choose from: Kino Kosmos, Rialto and Światowid, which we fully recommend you check out. Check their websites for all the latest events and screenings.QN‑12, ul. 3 Maja 7, www.silesiafilm.com.

All aboard Poland’s largest model railway, totalling 460m of track travelled by 12 trains! Not only that, the detailed displays show Silesian landmarks, scenes of daily Silesian life, and even a wild west mock-up, all spaced out over 900m2. Located in Gliwice’s ‘Shopping Centre Europa Centralna’, it’s easy to get to. Just east of the ‘Rynek’ (old town square) from bus stop ‘Gliwice Mikołowska’ on ul. Mikołowska city bus 232 will take you directly there in 15 mins.Qul. Pszczyńska 315, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 880 00 60 01, www.kolejkowo.pl. Open 10:00-18:00. Admission 19/15zł. Group ticket (up to 15 people) 15zł/12zł.

CITY BY BIKE

LILY NAIL SPA

Katowice’s city-organised bike rental system (available Apr-Dec) makes exploring Silesia capital’s easier than ever with 450 bikes found at 54 locations around the city including Katowice Rynek, the cultural zone, ul. Mariacka, Park Kościuszki and Park Dolina 3 Stawów (Valley of Three Ponds). Bikes are available 24/7 but you have to register on their website first where you can also find a list of bike locations. Log onto: www.citybybike.pl/en/ to find out how it works.QN‑10, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1. 10zł for registering on their website, 0-15min - 0zł, 16-60min - 1zł, 2 hrs - 2zł, 3hrs - 3zł, every additional hr is 4zł.

A lovely and relaxed interior, sharing the space with Thai Sabai, the mood is set for your treatment. On offer are a choice of manicures (20% off first visit) from hybrid, gel to classic with a huge selection of colours, and pedicure with a free back massage! Highly professional and friendly service, your comfort is of the upmost importance. The nail spa is located in the mezzanine above the food court in Galeria Katowicka. Despite the Sunday trading ban, the spa is open, but with different working hours, 11:0021:00.QM‑12, ul. 3 maja 30 (Galeria Katowicka), tel. (+48) 577 81 80 88. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

FLYSPOT KATOWICE

THAI SABAI

One of only two Flyspot’s in Poland (the other being in Warsaw), enter the wind tunnel and spread your wings...or your arms, if you don’t have feathers. The wind tunnel is the same type used by professional skydivers and military for training, and now you get to try it out too. This is an experience you’re not likely to forget! Prices: 229zł (Mon-Thu) or 249zł (Fri-Sun) for adults, and 199zł (Mon-Thu) or 219zł (Fri-Sun) for those under 18. The price includes 2 flights in the freefall simulator/1.5 mins.QK‑9, ul. Chorzowska 100, tel. (+48) 698 62 65 00, www.flyspot.com. Open 08:00-22:00.

It might look painful, but a Thai massage (acupressure mixed with assisted yoga) is a truly refreshing experience. Thai Sabai offer various services, from face, feet and leg massages, to a full body traditional Thai massage which costs 120zł. Each session lasts at least 1h. During your visit, you will experience the relaxed atmosphere with Thai music, aromatic oils, warm stones, facial peeling and masks. For the less faint-hearted, a gentler Balinese massage is available. Thai Sabai’s 2nd location is in Silesia City Center.QM‑12, ul. 3 maja 30 (Galeria Katowicka), tel. (+48) 577 81 80 88, www.thaisabai.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. 43

Kids & Families

Kids & Families for loungers on the public beach areas of the lakes, but also a haven for keep fit and outdoor types, who wish to walk, run, roller skate or ride a bike. Another great idea is to head over to Silesia Park (p.34) - either by bus, tram or bike. Although this is now going beyond the official city limits of Katowice, the wider metropolitan area is well connected and you’ll barely notice where one city ends and the next one begins. Even if you choose to get to the park by bus or tram, when you get there, we’d recommend renting one of the aforementioned bikes if your aim is to see the whole park - it’s truly huge! Near the main entrance to Silesia Park is Poland’s oldest amusement park, Legendia (p.36). Your next port of call may be the Silesian Zoo (p.36) - it never fails to amuse the kids, especially the petting area and Dinosaur Valley! Getting there can be quite a novelty in itself as you can opt to ride the Narrow Gauge Railroad (p.35, which links the amusement park with the zoo, 1km away) or go further and traverse the park on the Elka Cableway (p.37). For the kids bursting with energy, going to the Silesian Rope Park (p.35) is a safe choice! As for the sports obsessed children (and adults!), head over to the modernised Silesian Stadium (p.36) where you can join a tour. In the far corner of the park, you may wish to visit the Upper Silesian Ethnographic Park (p.36), whose skansen (open-air museum) showcases how rural life once looked in the region - one of the farms here even has animals (goats, sheep and horses), which the kids will love.

Relax, this isn’t some crazy experiment, it’s Flyspot! (p.42)

Judging by first appearances, Katowice may not look like an obvious tourist destination for anyone, let alone kids. But this is a city which has undergone a huge transformation, resulting in a major kick-start to the cultural and leisure landscape. So, you’re here now with the younglings, who you can only expect to be quiet in museums for so long, and you can’t expect them to enjoy bars or clubs at all (if you did, your credentials as a parent may be called into question!). There must be something for kids to do in this town, right? Yup! What we’ve learned during our time exploring is that Katowice and the surrounding area has quite a lot of stuff for kids to see and enjoy, come rain or shine! To help you along, we’ve listed family-friendly destinations that covers indoor and outdoor options. Some venues are described in more detail elsewhere, so follow the references. Don’t worry, folks, we’ve got you covered.

HELPFUL HINTS & IDEAS Of course the first step to having a great family trip is to accept that what you want to do, and what your kids want to do are hardly one and the same. That said, there’s no reason you can’t find common ground in Katowice’s major attractions. Everyone has Industrial heritage/tourism in mind when they visit Kato, but that doesn’t have to mean it’s boring old buildings for the kids, oh no. If you choose to go the Silesian Museum (p.31), it’s super modern and will have the kids as interested in the multimedia elements as you will be. If you do choose to go to more adult orientated 44

museum, there’s a creche, Ciuciubaka (p.45), should you have really young kids that just want to run around playing. You’ll be glad to know the city has a few kidfriendly venues up its sleeve (where you’ll no doubt have fun too)! If leisure is more your thing, then Multikino in Galeria Katowicka (p.86), Cinema City Silesia (p.86) and/ or Cinema City Punkt 44 (with IMAX screens, K-11) to see the latest kids’ movies can be good for a rainy day. If you prefer more action packed indoor attractions, Katowice also has a Laserhouse (p.45), a Jump City (p.45) and a Flyspot (p.42) centre to get suited and booted to fly around in a wind chamber. Sometimes the best thing to do when there’s easy-tiring kids involved and you want to see as much as possible is to simply walk, or take advantage of good weather and ride a bike around the city. From Apr-Dec, the ‘City by Bike’ (p.42) scheme is in effect, and with each year more bike paths being built, you’re spoilt for choice, with the only limitation being your own decision where you want to go. Riding around Downtown Katowice (p.26) is always an option, but you’ll have to tussle with pedestrians in the heart of the city, but heading to the Cultural Zone (p.30) is another option, from where you can even ride onward to the Nikiszowiec (p.38) district, if you’re all super fit! In the warmer months especially, the Valley of Three Ponds (p.33) is a welcome retreat for locals who want to get away from the bustle of the city centre, and we wholly recommend a visit - it’s like another world entirely, perfect

Pose for a family photo, like these camels, at the Silesian Zoo (p.36).

Going further afield, if you and the kids are interested in an altogether different experience, there are places across Silesia where you can go deep underground, to some truly great depths of some mines - 355m undergound in the Guido Mineshaft (p.49) in Zabrze, for example! Not only do you get to experience the dark depths of the earth, seeing how miners have worked throughout the centuries, you can try your hand at being a miner by using the very same equipment. In some cases, you can also travel through mine complexes by boat along underground rivers such as in the Black Trout Adit and the UNESCO World Heritage site, the Historic Silver Mines (p.50), both of which are in Tarnowskie Góry. A similar boat trip can be experienced in the Queen Louise Adit (p.49) in Zabrze, however, here there is also a child-friendly zone where the kids can

learn about the history of the mines in a multimedia and fun focused manner. Not only are these unique places to visit, the kids, and you, will certainly have fun, while at the same time learning about the complexities of the mining industry, and how important it is to Silesia and its culture. Fun through learning, huh? If this is more your thing, check out our Industrial Tourism section (p.48) for more details. We hope you and your kids enjoy the city and the surrounding area, but no doubt even if you are here alone or only with adults, the kidult within you will certainly consider going to check out some of our recommendations, and why not? We all deserve to have fun!

INDOOR ACTIVITIES CIUCIUBABKA The best babysitters out there, Ciuciubabka gives your kids an opportunity to wear themselves out in a safe, supervised environment full of slides, ballpits, inflatible bouncy things, jungle gyms, arts and crafts and a lot more. The desert island every kid wants to get left on. Tickets prices for weekdays/weekends: first half hour 7/8zł, second started half hour 6/7zł, one hour 13/15zł, unlimited playtime 21/25zł.QK‑7, ul. Jabłoniowa 52 (Józefowiec), tel. (+48) 504 21 68 14, www.ciuciubabka.com.pl. Open 16:0020:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00. JUMPCITY Are you hip to this? The newest fitness/recreation craze sweeping the globe (we’ve been told) is jumping like a madman around a room filled with trampolines and occasionally taking a dip into pits filled with foam. Release your inner six year old and literally bounce off the walls, ceilings and navigate some interesting obstacles. The perfect way to spend a rainy day, blow off some steam or just have some good old fashioned fun. Entrance is every hour and you must turn up 15 minutes before to get ready and have your anti-skid socks, available for purchase on the spot for 5zł.Qul. Tadeusza Kościuszki 227, tel. (+48) 32 781 88 84, www.jumpcity.pl. Open 12:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00. Prices start from 32zł per session. LASERHOUSE This excellent 600m2 laser tag arena near the centre of Katowice is equipped with strobe lights, florescent graffiti, dry ice, dynamic music and elaborate backdrops to fully immerse gamers into an exciting futuristic world. Engage your opponents in a sci-fi shootout while using barrels and tyre pyramids for cover, or take a crack at the challenging laser maze (30 mins for 50zł) with varying levels of difficulty. Laser Tag games are 30mins and cost 20zł Mon-Thu before 15:00, 25zł after 15:00, and 20zł on a Friday before 15:00, 28zł after. Weekends are 28zł all day. Also at ul. Wojska Polskiego 47 in Sosnowiec, Pl. Tadeusza Kościuszki 1 (C.H. Agora) 3 floor in Bytom.and ul. Bolesława Chrobrego 6 in Rybnik.QL‑12, ul. Kamienna 9, tel. (+48) 32 229 00 21, www.laserhouse.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 11:0022:00. 45

Around Upper Silesia

Industriada Festival - Silesia’s Industrial roots celebrated! Photo: UMWSL

The impressive historic Silver Mines of Tarnowskie Góry. | Photo: Kopalnia Srebra, SMZT

Soak up the atmosphere and use that energy to cycle around!| Photo: R. Kazimierczak

The Silesian Province: full of positive energy! The vibrant Silesian province is full of natural, post-industrial and cultural attractions, attracting over 5 million tourists annually. Lovers of outdoor pursuits can devote themselves to their passions surrounded by medieval castles on the Trail of the Eagles’ Nests in the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland, while cultural enthusiasts can discover regional history and traditions in the Beskid mountain range. Take a journey through time on the Industrial Monuments Route featuring Poland’s best industrial tourist sites, where you can do anything from sampling freshly brewed beer to sailing through a labyrinth of mining tunnels. Foodies can try the delicacies of the most recognizable regional cuisines in Poland on the ‘Silesian Tastes’ culinary route. The Metropolis GZM is a mecca of lively places where architecture combines history with modernity - it is here concert and festival enthusiasts will be tempted by the region’s cultural calendar – Katowice is, afterall, a UNESCO City of Music... 46

UNESCO CREATIVE CITIES - KATOWICE Silesia may be known historically for its industrial heritage and tourism, but it’s also been making big changes to become a modern cultural hotspot. Indeed, Katowice, as the capital of the Silesian province, and the heart of the Metropolis GZM, has made an impressive transformation from a city of heavy to creative industry. For its impressive efforts, in 2015 it was awarded the title of UNESCO City of Music. The city certainly packs a punch with many music festivals throughout the year, with the three biggest being the alternative and electronic music festivals Tauron and OFF Festival, and the Rawa Blues Festival. The Cultural Zone (pp.30-31) in Katowice’s centre is the gem in the transformation of the area and no more so is the city’s music heavyweight title embodied than with NOSPR - Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra - a building with some outstanding acoustics! Qwww.katowice.eu.

SILESIAN TOURIST ORGANISATION So you’ve arrived in Katowice, had a look around in the city and surrounding area and thought to yourself ‘Wow, there’s more to this place than I first thought!’, and we would wholeheartedly agree. To this end, we encourage you to visit other areas of interest across the greater Silesian region and beyond - you will not be disappointed. There’s a lot to see, and Katowice is a great starting point for all trips. Whatever your interests, the Silesian Tourist Organisation (Śląska Organizacja Turystyczna) is a fantastic resource that can help you with your planning! Happily visit their site www.silesia.travel for in-depth information, or visit the tourist information office in Katowice’s main square for a wealth of useful resources and guides to the gems of Silesia.

THE KRAKÓW-CZĘSTOCHOWA UPLAND With plenty of post-industrial tourism in Silesia, it’s easy to overlook the natural beauty of the region. The Beskid mountain range gets its share of admirers 80 km to the south of Katowice, however, to the north-east is one of the most unique geological areas in Poland. Covering a 160 km span along the border of the Małopolska and Silesia provinces leading north-west from Kraków to Częstochowa, the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland is a stunningly dramatic and diverse expanse of standing limestone rocks, cliffs, castles, medieval fortifications, sanctuaries, valleys, streams and caves. Ideal for sportsmen and tourists, the KrakówCzęstochowa Upland is recognised as one of Poland’s most precious natural areas with the highlight being the Trail of the Eagle’s Nests. Near Częstochowa, the small town of Żarki is worth visiting, with its Old Mill Museum and popular town market next to the historical barns.

Katowice’s cultural zone - the gem of Silesia.

Photo: R. Kazimierczak

INDUSTRIAL MONUMENTS ROUTE While Katowice holds quite a few post-industrial gems, such as the modern day cultural zone (pp.30-31), the wider Silesian region is littered with defunct (and still functioning!) coal mines, factories, and even still inhabited workers settlements - the most impressive of which is the charming Nikiszowiec district (p.38-41). The district has some fantastic places to eat and drink, but also the brilliant Industrial Ethnography Museum where you can learn about the area, the region, and of course, its people. We have listed the region’s most interesting industrial heritage sites in our Industrial Tourism section (pp.48-51), but this is only a fragment of the many industrial sites to be found around Silesia, therefore, those of you seeking postindustrial tourism and ethnographic history are urged to get hold of the excellent ‘Industrial Monuments Route’ (Szlak Zabytków Techniki) multi-lingual pamphlet containing information on all there is to see, which can be picked up for free in any Tourist Information points around the region. Qwww.zabytkitechniki.pl.

Silesian Region Tourist Information Site: www.slaskie.travel ‘Silesian Tastes’ Culinary Trail: www.slaskiesmaki.pl Beskid Mountains and Silesian Cieszyn: www.beskidy.travel The Eagles’ Nests Trail: www.orlegniazda.pl The Industrial Monuments Trail: www.zabytkitechniki.pl Kraków-Częstochowa Upland Site: www.jura.travel 47

Industrial Tourism

Industrial Tourism IN ZABRZE

Lull the kids into a false sense of security before putting them to work in the mines! | Photo: Queen Louise Adit

While such a prediction may have raised eyebrows only twenty years ago (we should know, we started publishing tourist guides to PL in 2000), today Poland has established itself (with our help, of course) as a bona fide tourist destination - a fact not lost on the flocks of weekend breakers who descend each weekend on its marzipan Old Towns. Taking pride of place is Kraków, with it’s enormous market square, castle and UNESCO-listed city centre, but Gdańsk, Wrocław and Poznań have each established themselves as fixtures on the backpacker map, thanks to historic centres that could well have been designed by a team consisting of Hans Christian Anderson and the good Mr. Kipling. Even Warsaw, once famed for its bleak, desolate boulevards, has generated a reputation as one of New Europe’s liveliest capitals. So what of Katowice then, or the region of Upper Silesia as a whole? A quick glance around is enough to suggest that works by Da Vinci will be tough to find here, so it’s with a fair degree of astonishment that most visitors learn that the Silesian landscape – dotted with its derelict factories and overgrown slagheaps – is something of a tourist goldmine (emphasis on ‘mine’). Transformed by the Industrial Revolution in the second half of the 19th century, what had previously been an idyllic rural backdrop suddenly found itself the focus of corpulent industrialists looking to make their fortunes from the coal and steel discovered here. Up went the factories and the chimney stacks, followed by huge migratory waves of people – both German and Polish – as everyone from balding fat cats to scruffy urchins looked to make coin and careers out of the newly discovered resources. 48

From thereon the region took on the appearance of an L.S. Lowry picture, its fledgling cities filled with blackened buildings and shuffling matchstick figures. The scorched earth policy followed by Hitler in the final years of WWII did little to dent Upper Silesia’s industrial importance. The communist authorities knew they had inherited a veritable wealth of mineral riches, and set about exploiting them to the max. Quickly becoming an environmental black spot, the region was fast heading for ecological catastrophe, a fate only narrowly averted by the collapse of the political system in 1989. Somewhat amazingly, and thanks in no small part to the ongoing cooperation between local government and foreign institutions, the ecological balance of the area has been restored to safe levels today. What’s more, it’s now possible for the intrepid tourist to explore the very facilities that made Silesia – and nearly destroyed it. Below we list the most interesting industrial heritage sites throughout the region, but enthusiasts are urged to get hold of a copy of the excellent ‘Silesian Industrial Monuments Route’ (Szlak Zabytków Techniki Województwa Śląskiego) - a multi-lingual pamphlet containing literally dozens of sites, which can be picked up for free in any Tourist Information points.

GUIDO MINESHAFT Constructed in 1855, a visit to Zabrze’s Guido Coal Mine allows hard-hatted adventurers to plunge an initial 170 metres below ground, via a rattling cage elevator, while learning about the world of coal extraction. From there it’s non-stop action as visitors view numerous tunnels and shafts that look just like they did at the height of the Industrial Revolution. Three separate tours are available, each descending deeper into the mine and with more protective gear required (included in the price). Along the way are numerous pieces of clunky, rusty machinery, including drainage pumps from 1914 and various drilling equipment that looks like it could have played a part in that hangover you had on New Years’ Day. This is a full-on interactive masterpiece that doesn’t just settle for displays of Davy Lamps and long-dead equipment. Of course it does that, but it also goes further with sound effects (braying horses and equipment going ‘kerchung, kerchung’), and a separate ‘art floor’ consisting of multimedia exhibits and cinematic presentations. The descent continues to -320m where you can travel by the wuppertale suspension railway, visit Europe’s deepest underground bar, Pub 320, in the Pump Hall (separate 10zł ticket), or maybe even see a concert, exhibition or other cultural event which are often held here. Going further still to -355m, this is where you get to roll your sleeves up and experience the real life of a miner using various pieces of equipment, under the watchful eye of former miners. All visits to Guido are conducted with a tour guide; Polish tours cost 50zł, English 90zł; tours in any other language must be booked in advance by phone (50zł/ person, plus 210zł group fee for the translator). To get to the mine from the centre of Zabrze take regular buses 7, 23, 47, 111, 198 or 199, getting off at ‘Guido Kopalnia Zabytkowa;’ the trip takes 10mins.Qul. 3 Maja 93, Zabrze (Centrum Południe), tel. (+48) 32 271 40 77, www. kopalniaguido.pl. Open 08:30-19:30; Tue, Wed 09:0018:00; closed Mon. Please call in advance. Guido Shaft tour (-170m/-320m) 50/45zł. ‘The Dark’ tour (-355m) 60zł. ‘Shift’ tour (-355m) 99zł. Pub Visit 10zł.

INDUSTRIAL MONUMENTS ROUTE zabytkitechniki.pl

Get suited and booted like a true miner in Guido Mineshaft!

QUEEN LOUISE ADIT The Queen Louise (Królowa Luiza) Mine opened for business in 1791, one year after Salomon Izaak first discovered coal below the ground. One of the oldest mines in the region, your visit starts off at ground level where you’ll find chunky pieces of machinery, pistons, dials, pipes, photo displays and other industrial detritus clustered around the old ‘Karnell’ shaft. Pride of place goes to a steam-powered hoist that made its debut in 1915 to a design born in Duelmen, Germany; such was the quality of the workmanship that it continued to be used until 1990. Every bit as impressive is the 30 metre hoist next to it; open to visitors, sweeping views of the city can be had from the top. Other points of interest include machinery salvaged from now-defunct mines, an underground machine park, and a monument honouring miners from 1850. The underground sections are split into three levels for visitors, the first of which is a boat trip along an underground river spanning 1130m, while a guide explains the history and culture of the mine. At the 2nd level, 40m below ground, you are shown the technologies used for mining over the last 200 years, right up to the huge machinery of the 21st century. The third and final level is family orientated, specifically for kids, with multimedia elements teaching the history of the mine and the people who worked there. Tours in English are available for an additional cost of 105zł, but you must book in advance via their website or by phone.Qul. Wolności 410, Zabrze (Zaborze Północ), tel. (+48) 32 271 40 77, www.sztolnialuiza.pl. Open 08:3017:30. Tourist Water Trail 60/40zł. Tourist Trail 45zł/35zł. Underground Treasures 35zł/25zł.

GETTING TO ZABRZE Few things in life are easier than getting to Zabrze from Katowice. Trains are frequent between the two cities and depending on which you get on your journey time will be anything from 20 to 30 minutes with tickets retailing from approximately 5-15zł. The train station is located smack in the centre of town at Pl. Dworcowy 2 and is a tiny and typically cheerless affair featuring one track and two ticket windows - one open 6:00 - 21:30 (Koleje Śląskie) and the other 05:15 - 21:30 (Intercity). Credit cards are not accepted and, fittingly, there’s no ATM. However help isn’t far away as the tourist info office on ul. Powstańców Śląskich 2/1 (open Mon - Fri 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.) will be more than happy to tell you where the nearest bank machine is. Also in the station itself are a few kiosks, food stands and slot machines, as well as the obligingly grim train station bar and a large secondhand clothing store. If travelling by car, approaching from the east (Katowice) or west (Germany), you’ll likely do so via the A4 freeway. Take the exit just before (if coming from Katowice) or just after (if coming from Germany) Gliwice - ul. Wspólna - and follow the signs to Zabrze.

Photo: A. Wróblewska

Industrial Tourism IN TARNOWSKIE GÓRY

IN KATOWICE ZINC ROLLING MILL If you haven’t noticed already, Katowice, and Silesia as a whole, is big on industrial tourism. If this is where your interests lie, then ‘Walcownia Cynku’ (Zinc Metallurgy Museum) will be right up your street! Originally opened in 1904 near Huta Bernhard (Bernhard Steelworks), the Zinc rolling mill hall (91x20m) and the engine Room (70x6m) functioned right up until 2002! The interior is filled with the majority of theoriginal machinery, so walking around, you have an opportunity to soak up the atmosphere of the place. The main function of Walcownia today is as a museum, which also contains a collection of American motorcycles, and hosts cultural and corporate events. For photographers or filmographers, you simply won’t find a better, more unique backdrop. To get there, take trams 14, 15 & 20 to the ‘Szopienice Roździenska’ stop, from where it is only a 5min walk away.Qul. 11 Listopada 50, tel. (+48) 727 60 01 86, www.walcownia.org. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/13zł. Family ticket available. Children under 3 enter for free. Tue free. Guided tours available in English and German (call in advance to book). U

The impressive historic Silver Mines of Tarnowskie Góry.

Photo: Kopalnia Srebra, SMZT

TARNOWSKIE GÓRY MINES You may have noticed that Silesia is big on post-industrial tourism - it has a lot to offer! Just 30km north-west of Katowice, there are more than 20 post-mining sites around Tarnowskie Góry, and part of Bytom, connected to iron, lead and silver mining, and also a water drainage network for you to visit. The ‘Historic Silver Mines in Tarnowskie Góry’, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2017, are 1740m in length, 270m of which you will see by boat. You will see old mining tools and equipment used here in the 18th/19th centuries. The 2nd major site is the Black Trout Adit, home to Poland’s longest underground tourist trail, coming in at 600m, the entirety of which you travel with a guide by boat, as they regale you with history and tales. Other attractions in the area include the city park, the spoil heap of the former Fryderyk mine, and the post-mining landscape of Srebrna Góra (translated as ‘Silver hill’).Qwww.sztolniapstraga.pl, www.kopalniasrebra.pl

Porcelain Factory

Zinc Rolling Mill

FABRYKA PORCELANY (PORCELAIN FACTORY) If you’ve ever been to Łódź’s ‘Manufaktura’ then you’ll kinda get the idea of what this place is trying to be (no, there’s no large shopping centre, but the rest fits the bill). Here since the 1920s and originally the Giesche Porcelain Factory, the modern day ‘Fabryka Porcelany’ is now run by the Giesche Foundation (created in 2012) which has revamped the site to be an industrial and technological park housing design offices, art galleries, interior design shops and a concert/event venue known as P23. There is also the fantastic Prodiż Bistro & Prodiż Nero Restaurant for people visiting the site - providing a warm welcome to all visitors at the entrance to the whole complex. Amazingly, the site has been creating porcelain since the 1920s and still has a working furnace involved with production! To get there take bus 940 from the bus station on level -1 of Galeria Katowicka.QU‑13, ul. Porcelanowa 23, www. fabryka-porcelany.pl.

Auschwitz-Birkenau

For centuries the town of Oświęcim was a quiet backwater community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed with WWII when Oświęcim, known as ‘Auschwitz’ under German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5 million people were exterminated here, etching the name of Auschwitz forever into the history books and countless films, documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since burned it into the collective consciousness.

presented in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps spared from fully surrendering to their emotions only by the sheer relentlessness of the information. No matter how much you think you know on the subject, the perspective gained by visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you choose to go to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However it should be understood that Auschwitz is not a site of Jewish concern, Polish concern, German concern, gypsy concern, historical concern... It is a site of human concern. As such, we believe everyone should visit.

Visitors to Kraków and Katowice are faced with asking themselves whether or not they will make the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a difficult question. There are few who would say they actually ‘want’ to visit Auschwitz, though many are compelled to do so for their own reasons. For those of us who don’t feel so compelled, it’s easy to give reasons for not going: not having enough time, already knowing as much as we need or want to know about it, not feeling personally connected enough to the site or the history to need to visit, or being uncomfortable about the prospect of visiting a site of such emotional resonance at the same time as hundreds of other tourists. Having been there, we can tell you that all of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz are perfectly reasonable until you’ve actually visited the site; you’ll be hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip and still argues against going.

VISITING AUSCHWITZ

The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion, poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it almost makes as lasting an impression as the site itself. Without being heavy-handed, the history of the site is 52

If you’ve decided to visit Auschwitz, you basically have three options: visit as part of a group organised by a tourist agency, visit independently and join a guided tour at the museum, or visit independently for free without a guide. Unfortunately, a new online reservation system now makes the latter two options much more difficult than in the past. All visits must now be booked in advance through the website visit.auschwitz.org. As a result, you may find there are no tickets available because they have all been snatched up by tourist agencies. The unavailability of tickets online doesn’t mean you can’t visit Auschwitz when you want, but it does basically force you to sign up for a tour through an outside provider. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as it relieves you of the hassle of figuring out how to get there and back, but you will essentially be paying a surcharge for the service. For most people, however, it is worth it. If you are determined to visit independently you need to know that during peak season (April - October) the museum makes it obligatory to buy a ticket and become part of a 3.5hr guided tour unless you get there before

10:00 or after 16:00 - during which times it is possible to visit for free on your own. Be that as it may, we strongly recommend the official guided tour, which is excellent, profound and professional; afterwards you’ll find it hard to imagine getting as much out of your visit had you explored the grounds on your own. Tour departure times fluctuate but tours in English depart frequently, and there are also regularly scheduled tours in German, French, Italian, Polish and Spanish. The museum makes a big effort to provide the tour in the native language of each guest, and tours in languages other than those just mentioned can be easily arranged if done in advance through the website. Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum on your own can be chaotic and confusing thanks to large crowds, numerous ticket windows with different designations, and excessive signage that contradicts itself. If you are visiting independently, or in a small group, find the queue for the desk marked ‘Individual Guests’. if it’s peak season (March 1 - Oct. 31) and you don’t already have tickets (not recommended), you must first visit the white Info box located outside the entrance. Once you’re through the queues, your experience typically begins with a harrowing 20-minute film of narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army when they arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945. The film (not recommended for children under 14) is not guaranteed year-round however, in which case your guided tour of the camp will begin straightaway with a live guide speaking into a microphone which you hear through your headphones. If exploring Auschwitz without a guide it is highly recommended that you don’t get there later than 16:00, and that you pick up the official guidebook (5-15zł) whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid missing any of the key sites; these can be picked up at any of the numerous bookshops at both Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II - Birkenau. Visiting Auschwitz is a full day’s excursion so prepare accordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I takes around 2 hours, so make sure you’ve eaten breakfast. After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a short break before the bus leaves for AuschwitzBirkenau II; in order to stay with the same tour guide, you need to catch that bus, so it would be wise to pack some food for the day (though there is some limited food available at the museum). The tour of the second camp is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours. Buses regularly depart back to Auschwitz I, or you can walk or catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away. At Auschwitz I there are restrooms (have change available), a fast food bar and a restaurant; there are also restroom facilities at Auschwitz II-Birkenau. Note that only small bags are allowed into Auschwitz I; if your bag exceeds the very small dimensions of 30x20x10cm, you’ll have to leave it somewhere; lockers are provided for this purpose. Qul. Stanisławy Leszczyńskiej 11, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org. Open 07:30-16:00. An individual ticket for a foreign language guided tour of both camps, plus the film, costs 60/55zł. Tours for groups range from 460-880zł depending on size of group and type of tour. Official guidebook 5-15zł. Admission without a guide (when possible) to either camp is free, but the film costs 6/3zł.

GETTING TO AUSCHWITZ

Auschwitz II - Birkenau Photo by Alana de Haan; alanacdehaan.com

The town of Oświęcim lies 33km south-east of Katowice and there are several ways of getting there, though the easiest may be just signing on for an organised tour through a local company like Silesia Trip (p.23). Direct trains go every couple of hours from Katowice central station and there are numerous bus options both big and small. Buses leave frequently from Katowice’s main bus station (M-11, ul. Skargi 1) every day starting at 08:00. A one way ticket costs about 9-20zł with the journey taking 60-70mins (prices and times depend on the company). The buses make several stops along the way, and most weekday will drop you off at the Oświęcim train station (ul. Powstańców Śląskich 22), which is 1.5km away. From there hop on local buses 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 or 29 to make the short trip to the museum; you can purchase the 2.70zł fare from one of the nearby kiosks. Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau are located 3km apart (with the train station strategically between them). Between Nov-Feb there is a free museum bus which shuttles visitors between the two parts of the camp every 30 minutes during weekdays from 10:00 (every 10 mins at weekends), with the last bus being at 16:10 (check upon arrival for schedule). Alternatively, catch a cab for a rich 15zł. To get back to Katowice, waiting minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour (+48 605 31 50 77) can be found outside either camp - a group of eight would pay about 30zł/person. Otherwise you need to catch a bus from the Oświęcim train station. Again, local buses 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 or 29 make the trip from Auschwitz I to the train station for 2.70zł. Buses from there back to Katowice are frequent, but the last one leaves at 17:27 Mon-Sun.

BOOK A TOUR 53

Cafés

Cafés KAWIARNIA FOTOGRAFICZNA Wood. and black walls. That’s what first hits you when you first walk in - but it’s OK, we get it, the photography theme is strong here, and the dark room element is understandable. Sparse interiors with photography paraphernalia everywhere, and old nostalgic photos lying around, really set the tone for this cafe - we felt right at home! But right, to business, what else do they have to offer? Well, there’s a menu full of classic and alternative (their words) teas, which will keep fancy pants drinkers to more traditional sippers appeased, and a variety of coffees to match, however, the sweet and savoury snacks deserve special mention, especially the ‘pampuchy’, a mix between a roll and a doughnut. It’s worth noting that until mid-December, every Mon evening they organise a folk music event where you can learn to sing and dance (translations provided!), with no reservation or fee required! A great idea for a cafe, so snap up the chance to go there. Sorry for the pun. Please note, the premises will be blosed 10-26 August 2019.QN‑12, ul. Teatralna 4, tel. (+48) 609 55 44 49. Open 09:00-21:00; Fri 09:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00; closed Mon. TBE6

The choice of great cafes in Katowice is forever expanding! | Photo: Nathan Dumlao/Unsplash

COCCOLE DI CAFFE Stripped back brick and a 1960s Café Racer motorbike (a hint of biker theme, lamps made from nuts, bolts and screws and a swish Sanremo Cafe Racer coffee machine) catch your eye in this spacious, relaxed, rustic caffe, a great place for intimate chilling and for larger groups. Craft beers are on offer (some on tap). Breakfast is served until 13:00 and includes some savoury options, including eggs and ham on bubble waffles! If you miss out, they have a selection of sandwiches and desserts to munch on. Of particular note are their crepes with either sweet or savoury toppings. Not far from the city centre and definitely worth a look in.QP‑12, ul. Warszawska 43, tel. (+48) 531 15 94 49, www.coccole-di-caffe.business. site. Open 08:00-21:00; Fri 08:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 11:0022:00. TUB6i CUKIERNIA EUROPEJSKA Going strong since 1974 in its original location on ul. 1 Maja 39, Cukiernia Europejska has branched out across the city, and its newest location is right in the centre just off the rynek. With a modern but pleasantly atmospheric interior, this confectionery shop is heavily focused on sweet goods, and quite right too, for they have a long tradition of baking these goods. You can try anything from cakes, desserts, biscuits, ice-cream, and if you’re trying to limit your sugar intake, you can stick to baked goods and sandwiches. As the owners say themselves, this is a great place to meet in the morning for some top quality tea/coffee and a piece of cake with friends, all at very reasonable prices. We agree.QN‑12, ul. św. Jana 8, tel. (+48) 787 37 63 45. Open 06:00-20:00; Sat 07:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. 6 54

EKSPEDYCJA COFFEEHOUSE One of Katowice’s newest cafes is a little bit different than the rest! Ekspedycja (Expedition) is themed on historical exploration, going back to the days of venturing out to discover new worlds, new cultures. And the theme is fitting, for the owner, an Italian living in the area, is passionate about the history of tea! Go on, ask him anything about tea, he’ll know the answer and more! To go on a journey of exploration, first, you must make the short journey down ul. Teatralna, just off the Rynek, and into Ekspedycja. Inside you will find the interior filled with old maps, paintings and paraphernalia connected with exploration and tea. More than a place to get some tea and coffee (which they have a fine selection of), this is a place to chill out with some board games and books, all provided, in various languages, encouraging you to engage and to learn. What a great idea!QN‑12, ul. Teatralna 12. Open 11:0020:00; Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 13:30-22:00. FLAMINGOO CAFE & DECOR Where interior decor and a cafe meet as one - the name’s a bit of a giveaway, right? Well, as long as it does what it says on the label, we’re happy. Flamingoo is a cafe with a rustic look, which prides itself on good Italian coffee and food, and as much as we agree with this after trying it our for ourselves, we must mention the highlight: all day breakfast. The closing time is always 19:00, so you’re guaranteed to grab breakfast treats (and lunches) until then. During our visit we chose scrambled eggs with Parma ham, which came with bread, salad and vinaigrette - wow, not bad. Once you eat, check out the adjacent shop stocked with unique decorative bits and pieces for the home.QL‑11, ul. Zabrska 16, tel. (+48) 781 20 16 01, www.flamingoo.pl. Open 07:30-21:00; Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-19:00. i

KAWOSZ A fairly new addition to Katowice’s cafe scene located just off Plac Wolności. Entering is quite a sight in itself, the first impression leaves you saying ‘ooh’ - no, you haven’t walked in on the aftermath of a Hogwarts’ lesson, and yes, those are floor lamps attached to the ceiling. The interior is quite sparse, but what little they have is quite funkily placed reproductions of famous paintings with covered faces, all in the aim of ‘upcycling’, or creative reuse. They have short ‘to the point’ lunch and breakfast menus, and cakes, which are yummy and fill a tasty spot. As for the coffee, the main selling point, you have high quality Arabica on offer. Each table has power sockets for all you laptop and phone people. Sparse but tasty best sums up Kawosz.QM‑12, ul. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 501 64 58 02. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. TB6 MONOPOL Inside the hotel of the same name the Monopol’s in-house café bar offers decent coffee and plenty of class with an interior that recalls Katowice’s golden age. Here it’s all fresh cut flowers, marble surfaces and sepia images of the city in its industrial heyday. Floor-to-ceiling windows encourage hurrying passersby to gaze in with envy.QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 5 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 782 82 82, www.monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl. Open 09:0023:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-22:00. U6 MOODRO BISTRO & CAFE The Silesian Museum has a lot to offer both tourists and locals alike and that includes its gastronomic offers. If you make the entire journey through the subterranean exhibits and ante-chambers of the Museum, you’ll be delighted to resurface right next to this bright bistro and cafe. You’ll no doubt run into locals already sipping lattes and nibbling light lunches. They may have skipped the museum and headed straight to grab one of the window front tables with

a panoramic view of downtown Katowice. Make sure to ask about their breakfast special if you’re an early riser. Also enjoy their healthy bowls and smoothies (vegetarian and vegan dishes also available).QP‑10, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1 (Silesian Museum), tel. (+48) 795 55 92 99, www. moodro.pl. Open 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. TUB ORGANIC COFFEE & MORE What could you possible expect here? The clue’s in the name, really, but more? We wanted to see this ‘more’. This unassuming little den in the city centre, just 5 minutes from the main train station, hides away a really organic feeling place, with bare interior, natural looking furniture and decorations (don’t swing on the ropes). But anyway, the most important part - everything on offer is made from organically sourced ingredients, to keep you at ease about what you’re putting in your body. Great coffees, smoothies, desserts, breakfast and lunch sets can be enjoyed here. What’s great, when you finish your jar of goodies, you’r encouraged to take it away with you (along with the booklet explaining how you can re-use it), all in the good cause of encouraging zero waste. Awesome.QO‑12, ul. Mielęckiego 10, tel. (+48) 737 85 58 32, www.organiccoffee.pl. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. TB6i SYNERGIA. DOBRE MIEJSCE The slow coffee movement rolls its way into Silesia and lands in one of the most stylish cafes this town has ever seen. You know they mean business when the first thing you see when you walk in is an array of high and low-tech new school coffee gadgets in rustic wooden crates. The aroma of fresh coffee will lure you further into the elegant environs. Sink into a couch and choose from Chemex, Drip, Aeropress, Syphon or Espresso press with your choice of “single country of origin” bean. Grab a brownie, pastry, quiche or even order one of their tempting lunch specials (of course vegan and gluten free options available). You lucky devils are now spoilt for choice with their 2nd cafe (same name) on ul. Opolska 18.QM‑12, ul. Andrzeja 29/2, tel. (+48) 502 93 02 53. Open 08:00-21:00; Sun 09:0020:00; Sat 09:00-21:00. T6

Go on a journey of discovery at Ekspedycja (p.48)

Traditional Silesian Dishes

Silesian Food is certainly stocky! Courtesy of Restauracja Wiejska Chatka

CIAPKAPUSTA

We did say Silesian food was heavy on meat and vegetables and ciapkapusta is the ultimate fusion! Potatoe purée is simply mixed with sauerkraut (kapusta kiszona), bacon, sausage and onion. As simple as that. Although it can be a main meal in itself, it’s often served as a side to a main meat dish (usually ribs).

Rolada Śląska | Courtesy of Restauracja Wiejska Chatka

A blue-collar region of miners and miners’ daughters, few places are as well suited to the nation’s traditional peasant fare of potatoes, cutlets and cabbage as Silesia. But that’s not the end of it, for as good as the traditional style of Silesian food is, in places like Chata z Zalipia, Patio and Wiejska Chatka, to modern takes on old favourites are popping up too, and nowhere else is this more true than in ISTO, with the chef’s own artistic style showing through with each unique dish. So what have the locals contributed to national cuisine?

ROLADA ŚLĄSKA

As for main courses, your pervasive regional entrée for the brave has to be Silesian beef rolades, or ‘rolada śląska’ – a rolled beef patty filled with onions, bacon and pickles. This surprisingly tasty dish with some kluski and red cabbage or fried sauerkraut on the side is as Silesian as it gets.

KRUPNIOKI ŚLĄSKIE

KLUSKI ŚLĄSKIE

ŻUR ŚLĄSKI

Karminadle

KARMINADLE

Photo: Adobe Stock

This blood sausage consists of pig’s blood, pork offal (85%) and buckwheat (15%). You may already know the national variety ‘kaszanka’, with both being almost identical, only differing by name. Krupnioki have been associated with Silesia since the 17th century as they provided miners with a quick, highly calorific source of food to give them enough energy to carry out their hard work. They are more associated today with traditional dishes served during the holidays.

Silesian noodles, known locally as ‘kluski śląskie’, are at the top of any Silesian culinary itinerary. Essentially a pierogi (dumping) with no filling, these pillowy potato flour doughballs are served as a side dish almost everywhere, often with mushroom gravy or fried fat and bacon bits on top. With a chewy texture and typically bland flavour, kluski literally stick to your ribs and set like cement in your stomach.

Kluski Śląskie with meat and veg!

Krupnioki

What are essentially pork meatballs, the national version being called ‘kotlety mielone’, the Silesian version karminadle were in the past only served during the holidays, a bit of a treat, and were often made from rabbit meat, due to the popularity of rabbit rearing. Today, although often made from pork, you can also eat pork-beef mixes, either hot served with potatoe purée, or cold, with bread.

A traditional Slavic sourdough soup, a popular regional phenomena with various methods of serving; some regions of Poland serve it over boiled potatoes in a bread bowl, or even with a boiled egg, whereas in Silesia, Żur Śląski is poured over mashed potatoes! WHERE TO EAT MORE? For hardcore foodies, or for anyone travelling in Silesia, it’s advisable to try as much of the local cuisine as possible - we’ve only given you a snippet of what’s on offer. To help you out on your food travels, the Silesian Tourist Organisation has this very need in mind with their ‘Silesian Tastes’ culinary trail. It’s definitely worth checking out at www.slaskiesmaki.pl. 57

Restaurants

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY

Stanisława 1 Armii Krajowej 81 Panewnicka 25 A

6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

tel. 511 433 663 • www.hurrycurry.pl

E Live music

X Smoking room available

Curries from all over the world

B Outside seating

AMERICAN

The traditional ‘kotlet schabowy’ (pork cutlet) with fried cabbage from Wiejska Chatka (p.72).

Silesia is known to many as a sprawling post-industrial metropolis that is more akin to a culinary wasteland than a growing centre of world-class cuisine for cunning connoisseurs. The last few years have brought drastic changes to the once dreary dining scene and the service industry can now join the esteemed ranks of the coal and steel industries in the area. Many culinary trends have taken hold and ethnic cuisine of all shapes and sizes are vying for your attention and appealing to your appetite. Don’t overlook the local fare either as there is a veritable renaissance happening in Silesian cuisine as well as a plethora of Polish places. Tipping at least 10% for table service is customary, though it may not always be deserved. Smacznego! FINE DINING Exclusive restaurants in Katowice come in a range of forms, from serving a mix of interntional and local cuisine, with varied interior decors and food on offer; all a treat to test out. Leading the way in Kato’s gastronomical revolution, we have a few contenders: If it’s post-industrial decor and good meat you’re after, check out Moodro Restaurant (p.73). If you like to eat high up and closer to the sun, try Cristallo (p.67) with its seasonal menu. Tatiana (p.66) just up from the Rynek serves a mix of European and Slavic dishes in a very pleasant and elegant setting. INTERNATIONAL The gastro revolution is not limited to traditional or local cuisine, as with any destination, choice is the key, and we certainly have that with a host of international eateries in Kato. If you’re searching for Indian food ranging from mild 58

to spicy, try out Buddha (p.62)! Nearer the centre, Novo (p.68) has a rather impressive looking stone baked oven which churns out all your favourite delights with authentic taste. Amfora Restaurant & Cocktail Bar (p.70) offers some Middle-Eastern flare right in the city centre, with the food being really good, and the cocktails equally as exciting as the former! FAST CASUAL If it’s something relatively quick you want and at decent prices without scimping back on quality, Kato has a lot to offer in this regard, and some of our noted adventures have highglighted the following: making the leap from food truck to having a real home, Little Hanoi...and More (p.60) serves up some great Asian food. Pasibus (p.59) is hot on the heels of the good burger trend in Poland and Zielony Most (p.63) provides a good vegetarian option. If you’re craving some great vegetarian/vegan friendly dishes in a cafe/bistro style, then Morcinka 3A (p.63) is the perfect place to go! FAMILY DINING Family options too are easily found in Kato, serving food from more adventurous meals for adults and classics for kids. First to mention following its recent renovation is Patio (p.64), which does just that with various meats dishes, pizzas, pastas etc. Steakhouse Da Da (p.66) is straight to the point, offering fine steak cuts from around the world, all served by friendly staff. For an authentic Polish feel, Chata Zalipia (p.72) serves up traditional Polish food in a design reminiscent of a cottage interior, one for all to enjoy.

PASIBUS Located on the top floor of Galeria Katowicka near the food court, the entrance to Pasibus moulds seamlessly between shopping centre and restaurant. Turn around from the shoppers and you could easily you’re in a shopping centre. The food is great, ranging in price from 9-25zł, and it hits the tasty spot. Various meat and veg burger options are available, accompanied a wow collection of sauces - red curry paste, chilli, and habanero, and other unconventional ingredients such as sun-dried tomato and cranberry paste, plum-ginger chutney. 2nd location found in ‘Stary Dworzec’ on ul. Dworcowa 4.QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 30 (Galeria Katowicka), tel. (+48) 511 41 56 50, www. pasibus.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. €.

ASIAN BANGKOK Mariacka street may be known as the place full of bars that you can find cheap snacks, herring and beer or vodka shots to wash it all down with, however, if you wander to the far end, where the church is, this part is more relaxed, down to earth and now a bit nicer than its opposite side. This is in part thanks due to restaurants such as Bangkok providing a bit of class. This Thai venue offers all the top offerings of Pad Thai and Kaow pad kai Daow, and special mention going to Tom Yum and Tom Kha soups, all set in a nice interior, which is split into 3 separate quiet areas, all for food. Awesome. QP/Q‑12, ul. Mariacka 37/1, tel. (+48) 503 17 54 99. Open 11:30-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:30-23:30; closed Mon. €€. TUB HANA SUSHI A former swimming pool attached to one of Katowice’s closed coal mines, this lovely brick building has been refitted to house the city’s best sushi house and Japanese restaurant. With the added advantage of being at the Silesia City Centre, yet sovereign over its own independent space and atmosphere (they even have their own separate parking next door), Hana Sushi boasts a rich menu rife with Japanese delicacies and hot dishes for those still suspicious of the sushi fad. If you don’t feel like making your way to Silesia’s biggest shopping mall. QK‑9, ul. Chorzowska 109, tel. (+48) 32 605 09 77, www.hanasushi.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:0021:00. €€€€. TUB

DECODING THE MENU Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego! (Enjoy your meal!) śniadania breakfast zupa soup przystawki appetisers dania główne main dishes dodatki side dishes ziemniaki potatoes kapusta cabbage ser cheese chleb bread warzywa vegetables owoce fruit mięso meat kurczak chicken wieprzowina pork wołowina beef ryba fish deser dessert ciasto cake lody ice cream napoje drinks kawa coffee piwo beer 59

Restaurants Restaurant Catering Sushi Workshops Events

Mielęckiego 6 phone +48 32 2042770

www.sakana.pl TIPPING TRIBULATIONS Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and the payment. Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity). As such, we encourage you to reward good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change. 60

Restaurants HURRY CURRY Bringing some heat to the street and some spice to Katovice, this hot spot is turning heads and filling stomachs. Started by a couple of travellers with the simple idea of offering a selection of curries from all over the world served up quick and sold for cheap. The results are utterly delicious and borderline revolutionary for the city’s budding ethnic restaurant scene. With a limited but diverse menu, you’ll find something new just for you. The design is cosy yet cool and the service is quick so even if you’re in a hurry you can make time for their curry. Top marks all around. Also at at ul. Panewnicka 25A and ul. Armii Krajowej 81.QO‑12, ul. Św. Stanisława 1, tel. (+48) 511 43 36 63, www.hurrycurry.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. B6 LITTLE HANOI...AND MORE! Set on a pedestrianised street in the heart of Katowice within walking distance of the train station and Katowice’s ‘Market Square,’ Little Hanoi is a welcome departure from eating dumplings, or even the low-standard Chinese restaurants found across the country. Granted, the minimal décor containing the obligatory lanterns, decent Vietnamese dishes and friendly staff are not unique in Poland, but as far as eating options in central Katowice go, this is a definite step in the right direction. The spicy soup was a solid beginning, the ribs were delicious and their signature Duck “Little Hanoi” style was to-die-for! Wash it down with a nice drink, and like us, you’ll be fortified for the evening ahead with hardly a dent made in your wallet.QN‑12, ul. Staromiejska 4, tel. (+48) 886 62 33 88, www.littlehanoi.eu. Open 13:30-23:00; Sun 13:3021:00. €€. UB SAKANA SUSHI BAR If you happen to be a well travelled sushi fan then you’re probably already familiar with the Sakana brand. With outlets in Poznań, Wrocław, Kraków and Warsaw, the Katowice branch offers the same high quality service, bright and bamboo accented interior and of course exquisite sushi. Experts at the sushi game, they also have a few innovations, such as the never-ending conveyer boat of sushi (pay by the plate), offsite catering, and you can even order your meal online. Enjoy a cleansing kimchi soup, or opt for expertly prepared sets of Californian maki. They now offer lunch specials Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00 for 29zł (9 futomaki + soup) plus brunch on Sun 13:00 - 17:00 for 99zł (one of three sets for 3 people) during which times kids aged 7-12 can partake in a sushi making workshop - amazing! If it’s sushi you seek, head to Sakana – sumptuous and sleek.QO‑12, ul. Mielęckiego 6, tel. (+48) 32 204 27 70, www.sakana.pl. Open 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. €€. TB

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CZECH HOSPODA History and geography have preordained close ties between Silesia and the Czech Republic. While ‘close’ doesn’t always mean friendly, this hopping Hospoda could downright double as the Czech Embassy for all the love it shows to their southern neighbours. Of course the first test of a true Czech pub is its beer selection. Hospoda passes with flying colours with delicious Bohemian brews like Kozel Dark, Vit and Pilsner on tap plus at least 25 other bottles on deck (Gambrinus, Radegast, Budvar and a boatload more). If you’re wondering about the grub, czech out their classic fried cheese, garlic soup and goulash with langosz. If you’ve never been to Prague, just throw on a Walkman with some Jaromir Nohavica, curl up in a corner with a dark Kozel or two and prepare to be telePortered.QL‑11, ul. Gliwicka 6/1 (entrance from ul. Sobieskiego), tel. (+48) 793 89 65 30, www.hospoda.pl. Open 14:0024:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-02:00. €. X

FRENCH C’EST SI BON Certainly one of Katowice’s finer restaurants, the service may not be as cheerful as the interior full of lavender plants, lilac table clothes, candleholders and sun icons, but the food is top-notch, as testified by the long list of companies C’est Si Bon does regular catering for. The menu is in Polish, French and English, and still full of rich, delicious dishes like the onion soup with gruyere cheese for just 12zł. Bon Apetite!QM‑13, ul. Ligonia 4, tel. (+48) 32 781 68 48, www.cestsibon.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. UB6

FUSION SZTOLNIA. CHLEB. MIĘSO. WINO Someone forgot to tell Poland that restaurants near Malls are supposed to be bland, corporate run, flair-wearing affairs only. Sztolnia not only blows that notion out of the water, but it’s one of the best restaurants in town. One look at their open concept industrial-yet-rustic, dining room and you’ll begin to see why. After a very recent renovation, the dining area has been expanded, and the restaurant now has a confectionery section, winery, and banquet hall all held in a huge 1000m2 space! Once you’ve settled and had a look at the laid back and eclectic menu filled with fusion treats and grilled aged meats, they’ll have won you over. And once you’re served your meal, they’ll have fully sealed the deal. Hand to heart, our perfect Angus beef steak, grilled potatoes, selection of green salad leaves, cheese sauce was impeccable. They also serve a 3-course lunch Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00 for 33zł. Silesia City Center just got a whole lot closer.QK‑9, ul. Chorzowska 109 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 506 78 87 75, www.sztolnia.katowice.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€. TUB 61

Restaurants GERMAN WUNDERBAR A pleasing bar-restaurant kitted out with pots, pans, chiming clocks and all manner of assorted country trumpery. The menu here is pretty much as you expect from a Bavarian themed eatery with a bit of a Polish twist. Try the Krupnik soup with goose stomachs or the half duck baked with apples. If you really mean business then try the Baked Pork Knuckle on for size. Wash it all down with some tried and true German brew - wheat Weihenstephan or Weihenstephan Pils.QN‑13, ul. Plebiscytowa 2, tel. (+48) 32 781 76 90, www.wunderbar.pl. Open 13:00-23:00. €€. TB

GREEK SOUVLAKI BAR Here’s a first for Katowice (it’s becoming a trend in the city, huh?) - a Greek food place! If you’ve ever been to Greece and miss the food (or haven’t, and want to test the food culture), here’s a great place to start, without actually going to the country! It’s not just about the food, it’s the approach - you don’t have to go to the best restaurant to eat good food, and in Greece, a popular option is just to eat some Souvlaki from a street food bar. I’ll be honest, I love this style. Souvlaki Bar is a small eatery, and feels like an Athens quick food bar. The owners live in Athens and very much want to bring this style to Katowice, and why the hell not? It’s awesome. Try horiatiki, tzatziki, and anything with grilled halloumi!QO‑20, ul. Francuska 2, tel. (+48) 533 33 83 89. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00; closed Mon. €€. T6

HUNGARIAN ZAKLĘTY CZARDASZ Certainly one of Katowice’s finest and most unheralded restaurants, this aromatic Hungarian effort serves excellent ethnic cuisine in elegant surroundings with wicker lampshades, latticework and vines. The enticing menu offers a dozen ways to enjoy their delicious goulash (trust us, you’ll be licking the cutlery), plus stuffed peppers, potato pancakes, pork loin, fish and more - all complemented ideally by Hungarian wines and tokajs from their adjoining shop. Portions are positively huge, with food practically spilling over the edges of the plate, and it’s worth noting that you can ask for many of them in a smaller amount. A cellar wine bar only makes us more enthusiastic to recommend this place than ever before.QM‑13, ul. Kopernika 9, tel. (+48) 32 257 01 32, www.czardasz.com. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€. UB

INDIAN BUDDHA The Indian owned and operated Buddha has brought authentic ethnic food to Katowice. Marked by great service and richly furnished with elegant antiques, tapestries, tiles and gold silk place-settings, Buddha has a head start before the food even arrives and fails to disappoint in that 62

Restaurants department as well. If it says it’s spicy (gasp!) it actually is, the curries are rich and portions are more than healthy. If you’re looking for a midweek fix don’t miss their new lunch menu (Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00) for just 20 PLN! Overall a fine effort and more than worth the total on the check, which arrives in a hand-crafted box. They also offer catering and delivery services.QM‑13, ul. Drzymały 9, tel. (+48) 726 11 12 22, www.buddha-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. TB INDIA GARDEN RESTAURANT & CATERING We try to keep our informative descriptions as straight to the point as possible. Why should we waffle on when a few simple words sum up a place perfectly? The owners advertise their venture as ‘an interesting springboard from everyday Polish food’. They’re right. And not without basis, as India Garden is brought to you by the popular Buddha Indian restaurant in the city centre of Katowice. They’ve branched out further south and offer not only the restaurant experience, where you can arrange events for family and friends, but also a catering service - perfect for businesses, conferences etc., which they can help you in organising (at least from the food side of things!).The menu is colourful and rich, and we have to agree, this certainly is an interesting springboard which will not leave you disappointed.Qul. Trojoka 1 (Podlesie), tel. (+48) 791 99 19 19, www.indiagarden.pl. Open 13:0020:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €. TB6

INTERNATIONAL BAR MONOPOL This regal bistro recently had its menu overhauled had its artdeco decor totally redecorated. Located in the heart of the City on the ground floor of the city’s only 5 star Hotel the very capable head chef has concocted the ideal seasonal sensations for light leisurely breakfast and midday meals. If you’re feeling a bit more peckish check out their daily lunch menu (daily from 12:00 - close). Their extensive wine list will also help you start your day in style.QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 5 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 782 82 82, www.monopolkatowice.hotel.com. pl. Open 08:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-22:00. €€€. U BIERHALLE Dining in a shopping mall usually consists of being queue barged by tracksuited teens ordering burgers and putting the finishing touches to their acne, so Bierhalle is quite a bonus for all who find themselves exploring the guts of the Silesia City shopping mall. The best beer in Katowice should be the primary reason for your visit, but the food is by no means a poor relation. The menu here is pretty much as you’d expect: big piles of dead animals, perfect for lining the innards before putting their range of microbrews to the test. Order the likes of sausages, herring, and even tortillas, delivered cheerily by staff dressed like they’ve just finished milking cows. When the Sunday trading ban is in effect, regardless, they are open, albeit with a shorter day 12:0020:00.QJ‑8, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 32 605 01 61, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. €€€.

BISTRO & CAFE ZIELNIK The term bistro gets thrown around a lot these days but this bright and bustling cafe is indeed a true blue bistro at heart. From hearty breakfasts, to fresh squeezed juices, creative cakes, thrilling lunch specials and exquisite entrees, there is a lot to like here. And the longer you stay the longer you want to stay. Our coffee and cake ended in a 3 course lunch; they change their menu regularly! A good rule of thumb is if you can see and hear the chef cooking, you know your meal is the real deal. Superb!QN‑13, ul. Jagiellońska 13, tel. (+48) 32 438 46 04. Open 08:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 09:30-18:00. €€. TB6 BISTRO POLONIA Bistro Polonia is a modern take on an old format, with sleek but simple interior and a mix of Polish and international flavours added to the menu. We went from eating burger soup (you read that right) to Tagliatelle to an old school Polish dessert called Kogel Mogel (raw egg yolk mixed with sugar - you read that right again), all of which were quite impressive. The bistro is just up from the main square (Rynek) and you’ll be glad to know they also offer a bunch of 15zł breakfast specials (tea & coffee is only an additional 1zł), along with lunch options and other main dishes, such as pulled pork! Good for you that it’s not at all expensive.QN‑13, ul. Kochanowskiego 3, tel. (+48) 786 10 56 01, www.bistropolonia.pl. Open 07:0019:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-22:00. €. B6i BUŁKĘS Their tagline is all you really need to know: Pulled Pork and Pancakes. If you’re still not convinced then how about local micro-brewed craft beers on tap and in bottles, and lunch options that will knock your socks off, Prosecco cocktails and homemade cakes. Still not convinced? Come find us on their urban terrace – we’ll be digging into yet another BBQ pork, bacon and blue cheese sandwich (we’re addicted already) and washing it down with a fruity Silesian Hajer IPA. We’ll have a word or two for you; come early and come often!QN‑13, ul. Plebiscytowa 10, tel. (+48) 780 09 09 66. Open 12:00-22:00; Mon 14:00-22:00; Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:00-23:30. €€. TUB6 DZIEŃ I NOC Entering any establishment is usually dependent on your choice of day and night options - do you want food during the day? Do you want to go for drinks in the evening? Well, entering this establishment is a clear choice between dzień i noc (night and day), as both are rolled into one! Located right in the city centre, come during the day for some great food, and quite a treat too, as the kitchen is headed by the talented Agnieszka Syguła! The Tue-Sun lunch menu changes regularly, keeping you on your toes. Their steaks are definitely worth a try, and a nice touch, you can go to the fridge, choose your piece of meat and pay for the weight you choose! Once you’re done with the food, the night sets in and gradually some eating areas become a dancefloor. The cocktail bar is very much worth a try! Eat. Drink. Dance. I’m in!QN‑12, ul. Warszawska 5, tel. (+48) 531 03 40 34, www. dzieninoc.com.pl. Open 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. €€. TUBE6

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN

Botanika

MORCINKA 3A NEW The great thing about Katowice is that you can use markers to find your way around - the church on ul. Mariacka, and further north, the UFO shaped Spodek, part of cultural zone, but acting like the ‘guardian’ of the northern Koszutka district. And it’s here, not far from Spodek, that you will find the fantastic Morcinka 3A - handy that this is also the address! A cafe bistro, with breakfasts, lunches, icecreams and a very respectuful menu consisting of salads and some very funky Asian bowls. The interior is design focused, relaxed, modern and chic at the same time. It has that certain personal touch that...only a family run business can provide, ahh, there’s the reason for the look. A great place to stop by for a quick snack or stay that little bit longer, whether you’re vegetarian, vegan, or a meat eater, there’s something for everyone.QN‑9, ul. Morcinka 3A, tel. +48 735 937 494, www.morcinka3a.com. Sun-Fri 09:00-19:00 & Sat 09:00-20:00. BOTANIKA Nestled nicely into the basement and first floor of one of the brownstones (yes Katowice has brownstones!) on one of our favourite streets is this vegetarian and vegan treat. As the name suggests, they are all about cooking up hearty and healthy meals pulled straight from the garden. The specials include vegan and gluten free meals to knock your socks off. They serve up mighty fine coffee too with specially selected beans. The multicoloured meals match the warm woods, climbing vegetation and exposed brick walls of this comfy and friendly bistro and cafe.QN‑13, ul. Sienkiewicza 27, tel. (+48) 32 724 18 36. Open 09:00-20:00; Fri 08:0022:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-22:00. €. TB6 ZIELONY MOST Katowice seems to be getting greener by the day, and we’re not just talking about the grass on the International Congress Centre. This vegetarian/vegan bistro is the latest gastronomic outpost to offer up a full menu of lunch and dinners without harming a hair on an animal’s head. Seek the specials board which proclaims the presence of all sorts of soups, salads, curries, wraps, cutlets, falafel and even Silesian inspired dishes and an army of gluten and allergy free cakes and desserts. Wash it all down with healthy smoothies, local craft brews or even alcohol free beer!QM‑11, ul. Słowackiego 12/1, tel. (+48) 533 73 95 95, www.zielonymost.katowice. pl. Open 11:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-21:00. €. T6 63

Restaurants FOOD & BALL ‘Food & Ball by Arkadiusz Milik’ to give it its full name is connected to the FC Napoli and Polish National team star who hails from Silesia. Football and gastronomy have been his life long passions, and now he’s having a go at the latter. Located in Galeria Libero, in Katowice’s southwest, this is a restaurant aimed to be inviting for both friends and families, for lovers of sport, good food and good cocktails. The food menu features meat, vegetarian and fish dishes, however, the cocktail menu deserves special mention for its unique selection of own recipe cocktails, all with names connected to football (offside... Pele...not that the 2 were often connected, we must add!). Things get lively when sporting events are shown live on the large screens.Qul. Kościuszki 229, tel. (+48) 575 99 87 65, www.foodandball.pl. Open 11:00-22:30. €€. TB KLUBOGALERIA SARP This marvellous multifunctional restaurant, club, bar and architectural cultural centre arrived on the scene to much fanfare. Their various international inspired menus are reason enough to pay them a visit. On weekdays stop in from 12:00-16:00 Mon-Fri for their daily lunch special, costing 19zł which includes soup, main and a dessert. If none of that floats your boat just order off of the regular dinner menu with inspired soups, sides and mains until 23:00. Their numerous flat screen TVs mean that this is the rare venue that you can eat a delicious meal, drink a great cocktail and watch the big game at the same time. QN‑12, ul. Dyrekcyjna 9, tel. (+48) 32 205 12 86, www. klubogaleriasarp.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. B KOFEINA MINI The new train station and shiny new shopping mall are attracting all sorts of new businesses to a street that was downright downtrodden not too long ago. Kofeina Mini is exactly the type of place that’s changing the face of this central thoroughfare. This modern, bright bistro and cool cafe serves up all kinds of affordable and delicious dishes, many of which would pass for gourmet meals in more pretentious environs. Their chalkboard menu proclaims the daily specials and organizes them either by food type, “Pierogies, Soups, Pastas, Smoothies etc.” or by main ingredient, “Cod, Veal, Chicken, Salmon etc.” Everything is worth trying and don’t forget to grab one of their delicious coffee - sit and sip or grab and go.QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 13, tel. (+48) 509 34 12 65. Open 08:00-19:00; Sun 09:0013:00. €€. TB6i KRYSTYNKA WRACA Z WIEDNIA BISTRO & CAFE This bright little bistro is quite a refreshing take on the cuisine and style of Vienna. If you’re thinking starched napkins and gilded portraits of moustachioed Habsburgs, think again. There’s nothing haughty or hifalutin about this delectable diner. They offer straight ahead delicious food of the hearty soup and scrumptious schnitzel variety with a subtle tip of the hat to Austrian tradition. They also do great service to Viennese cake and coffee culture so 64

Restaurants make sure to stop by in the earlier hours for a java jolt and to break the fast. Also, saddle up to a big creamy bowl of soup and a luscious latte. With food and drink like this we are by no means surprised by Miss Kristine’s illustrious return... we just hope she never leaves us again. QM‑14, ul. Kościuszki 45, tel. (+48) 32 733 38 20, www. krystynka.com.pl. Open 08:30-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:0018:00. €€. TB6 LOBBY BAR Located on the ground floor of the Angelo Hotel, it’s worth getting a room upstairs just for convenient access to this exquisite restaurant. A perfect cure for seasonal Silesian depression, Lobby Bar justifies its to-the-point name with a modern, spirit-lifting interior of warm colours and wall to floor length windows. No effort is spared with the food, including regularly reinvented seasonal menus in addition to the regular card full of locally-inspired fusion dishes. The menu even includes accompanying wine recommendations. Meal deals are on offer from 50-100zł including an appetiser, main, dessert and a glass of wine. For the more traditionally minded, you you can also order mouth watering steaks and burgers.QM‑11, ul. Sokolska 24 (Vienna House Easy Katowice), tel. (+48) 32 783 81 55, www.viennahouse.com. Open 09:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-24:00. €€€. TUB PAN DE ROSSA Located in the Valley of Three Ponds – one of the city’s most popular recreation areas, Pan de Rossa makes more than just an appetising diversion for those creaking around on their bicycles. Unfortunately they downsized their seasonal terrace overlooking the pond when they moved across the road and into the trees. However what they lost in views they gained in design with a fresh, modern décor with lots of light through their large windows. The menu remains a dissertation on local grilled fish and game dishes but has upped the Polish selections, likely to cater to a more local audience.QS‑16, ul. Trzech Stawów 23 (os. Paderewskiego), tel. (+48) 32 256 05 52. Open 11:0022:00. €€€. UB PATIO One of Katowice’s most popular restaurants just had an extensive renovation and they are all spiffed up and ready to serve. They got rid of some of the kitschy clutter, added some comfier chairs and brightened things up a bit so you can now see your delicious dish a bit better and feel relaxed as you eat it. Their extensive menu of regional dishes (Silesian beef roulade with Silesian style potatoe-dough noodles (knedle) and red cabbage) and European cuisine (pizzas, pastas, grilled meats and fish etc.) has plenty to offer. Their multi-lingual menus (German, English, French and Italian) make it easy for you to successfully order what some claim to be the best steak in town. For a bargain, visit between 11:00 and 16:00 Mon-Fri, when lunch is only 26zł. QM‑11, ul. Stawowa 3, tel. (+48) 32 781 55 55, www. restauracjapatio.pl. Open 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. €€. TB6

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App PATIO PARK An exquisitely decorated and refreshingly spacious restaurant at the edge of Kościuszki Park. Reflected light above the faux trellises give the impression of daylight and cut branches hang from the trellises so as to give the impression of dining in a forest on a starry night. Countrystyle furniture, a rustic-themed mural, antique objects and elegantly simple table settings sustain the impression. Wait staff are pleasant and speedy to respond. The chef takes a creative turn with entrees, adding garnish to some to resemble trees. The menu is long, but you may not have to venture past the chef’s recommendations on the first page to find something tempting. They’ve recently introduced tasting menus on Mon and Tues (55-79zł). Don’t hesitate to bring the kids as they’ve just installed two new playground areas (indoor/outdoor) so you can dine in peace.QK‑16, ul. Kościuszki 101, tel. (+48) 32 205 30 77, www.patio-park.pl. Open 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. €€€. TUB PATIO ZAJAZD The patriarch of the Patio family is also their biggest and most exclusive. The Polish ‘zajazd’ is something between a Diner, a Motel and a rip roaring wedding and function hall. Patio Zajazd fits the bill but ups the classiness and quality by a factor of ten. As with all Patio restaurants the food is the centrepiece and is a hearty mix of Polish staples and pan European fair (breakfast served 08:00-10:00). Steeped in tradition and experience, their chefs, waiters and hotel staff all provide top notch service and they even have a play area for your little ones (inside and out). Greath for whether you’re simply stopping in for a bite to eat or staying for the weekend to celebrate a distant nephew’s nuptials. They have 23 comfortable Hotel quality rooms available on the premises.Qul. Kościuszki 352, tel. (+48) 32 202 95 56, www.patiozajazd.pl. Open 08:00-22:00. €€€. TUB RESTAURACJA MAX This is an absolute Katowice institution and if you happen to have a taste for the wilder meats, then Max is the place for you to get your fix. Their cuisine hovers somewhere between trans-European and traditional Polish with an expansive menus of delicate starters, hearty soups and decadent mains. But the star of the show is undoubtedly the many exotic game dishes and regular specials they have on offer. Choose from roast wild boar or Venison steaks! If you can’t decide on just one go for the chef’s wild game platter for two. NOTE: Max is located about a 10 minute walk north of Spodek on ul. Korfantego.QN‑7, Al. Korfantego 105, tel. (+48) 32 259 68 86, www. restauracja-max.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:0022:00. €€. TB

ul. Stawowa 3, 40-095 Katowice tel. 32 781 55 55, 32 259 98 65 www.restauracjapatio.pl Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00

Our Family Tradition for over 70 years in gastronomy

Possibility of accommodation in cosy charming rooms! Open: hotel 24h, restaurant 8:00 - 22:00

ul. Kościuszki 352, 40-690 Katowice tel. 32 202 95 56, tel. kom. 666-388-108 www.patiozajazd.pl 65

Restaurants

Restaurants RESTAURACJA POD DREWNIANYM BOCIANEM A new franchise of a tried and true Chorzów and Ruda Śląska legends, the Katowice version of the stalky stork is a bit more modern and elegant than the rest of its flock. Here they have gone the downtown route offering fine dining mixed with occasional live music. Although the atmosphere is much more sophisticated the menu is in fact similar which is very much to their credit. Thin crust pizzas cooked in a wood fire oven are the centrepiece of their expansive menu which also delves deeply into other Mediterranean staples like pastas, salads and seafood with a smattering Polish classics and Silesian specialities for good measure. The portions are large and the food is outstanding. Judging from the positivity of the staff and the meticulousness of the new design and expansive private event room, this bird has come to roost for a long while.QK‑11, ul. Gliwicka 49, tel. (+48) 532 53 22 22, www. drewnianybocian.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€€. TB E

OUTDOOR EATING You wouldn’t think Katowice is one of the top 10 romantic destinations in Europe... and you’d be right. The city may not have the same romantic allure of al fresco eating in southern Europe, but there’s still an opportunity to eat in a chilled out and atmospheric setting al Kato style. We have handily marked all venues in our guide that have outdoor gardens with an umbrella symbol B, so the choice on where to eat out is entirely yours, however, we have handy some tips! First and foremost, the city centre around ul. Mariacka, ul. Mielęckiego and ul. Staromiejska is packed with venues, and the route to the train station likewise has some venues, in the main square (rynek, p.26), along ul. 3 Maja and ul. Stawowa (M/N/O-12) - yes there are drinking dens aplenty here, but there’s no lack of class eating places too, and across all cuisines of the world, from Sushi at Sakana (p.60), Vietnamese food at Little Hanoi... and more (p.60), Middle Eastern food at Quebab (p.71), Mexican food at El Mexicano (p.70) and Biała Małpa (p.70), and to more Polish and European flavours at Tatiana (p.66) and Patio (p.64). It’s not only in the city centre you can enjoy outdoor eating - if you visit the Nikiszowiec district (p.38), going to Śląska Prohibicja (p.40) is a must! We hope you enjoy these gardens, sitting there, looking all chic and suave, basking in the summer sun. Ahhh, Katowice, the city of love... 66

RESTAURACJA VACANZA It’s rare that a hotel restaurant would warrant the trip for those not staying upstairs, but Silesian dining is precisely the kind of perfect storm that makes Vacanza an oasis of taste. Warm Mediterranean interiors include a fireplace and sunny four season timber-beamed terrace, and it merely follows suit that the excellent menu be an exploration of southern European tastes and ingredients. With several banquet rooms on hand, it’s also worth considering if you’re planning more than a casual dinner. Qul. Olimpijska 4, Siemianowice Śląskie (Diament Vacanza Siemianowice Śląskie), tel. (+48) 32 606 83 83, www.restauracjavacanza.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€. TUB6 STEAKHOUSE DA DA If there were such a thing as the beaten path in Katowice, Stek House would certainly be off it, but it’s worth seeking out if you’re feeling particularly rapacious. With a variety of choice cuts of primo authentico Argentine beef steaks (Black Angus), Irish beef steaks (Hereford) and other choice cuts from around the globe (Chile, Japan and even Poland!). Steak burgers are also on offer! If you’re a meat lover you can’t go wrong. There’s an English menu on hand and the pleasant staff are more than happy to help out. Prior reservation required.QL‑14, ul. gen. Zajączka 17 (entrance from ul. Poniatowskiego), tel. (+48) 32 205 61 03. Open 13:00-21:00. Reservation only. €€€. B TATIANA A long, thin restaurant with elegant, cleverly designed wooden floors and ceilings. The organic design is enhanced with decorative bamboo and suspended reeds and a new lighting system which make for a bright and warm atmosphere. One of Katowice’s finer and suitably popular establishments, the menu features an extensive range of Slavic and European dishes

including steaks (the best in the city?) plus a seasonal menu that changes every three months. The Silesian style ‘Żurek’ (sour rye soup) with mashed potato, sausage and egg is as traditional as you can get, and wow, what a taste! Great food with a wine list to match. QN‑12, ul. Staromiejska 5, tel. (+48) 32 203 74 13, www.restauracjatatiana.pl. Open 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. €€€. UB

ITALIAN BAR A BOO The furthest restaurant on the Mariacka strip but more than well worth the trip. Specializing in pizzas, pastas and other Italian treats, this popular eatery hits all the right notes avoids being just another Italian place. With authentic wood fired pizzas at the heart of it all, their seasonal menus are built around the freshest of ingredients both sourced locally and imported from Italy. Their Pappardelle Porcini with porcini mushrooms, cured tomatoes, onion, garlic and wine and butter sauce was just the ticket! The colourful wine and drink menu (Prosecco, Bellini!) is expertly presented and paired by their friendly and knowledgable waitstaff. Delicioso!QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 37, tel. (+48) 32 399 15 26, www.baraboo.pl. Open 11:00-24:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00-01:00. €€. TB CRISTALLO Climb a grand marble staircase to reach Cristallo, the stunning show-piece restaurant of the Monopol Hotel. A glass roof allows guests to watch the evening unravel above them, while the discreet interiors of bare brick walls and steel tubing lend a minimalist aesthetic to the experience. Select from the imaginative Italian (and Polish) inspired menu with succulent dishes from duck to a choice of grilled fish. You pay for the quality here, and it comes as no surprise that diners trek across Silesia to do so.QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 5 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 782 82 82, www.monopolkatowice.hotel. com.pl. Open 18:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€€. UE LEN ARTE Len Arte takes the cake for the best pizza pie in town. The incredible smells wafting from their wood fired oven will hit you way before you queue up for a table. And wait you will (unless you call ahead), as this is one of the hottest gastronomic tickets in town. Once you make it inside you’ll see why their pies are so divine. They have countless artisanal Italian products prominently displayed behind the bar. Peperoncinis, prosciutto, pasta, parmesan, pesto, porcini oh my! Choose from an impossible list of pristine pizzas, scrumptious salads, perfect pastas and delicious dolces. Top it all off with an authentic espresso and you’ll be shouting Bravissimo along with the rest of town.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 25, tel. (+48) 32 308 84 30, www.lenarte.it. Open 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 13:0024:00; closed Mon. €€. TB 6 67

Restaurants

Restaurants NOVO The first thing you’ll be struck by as you walk in to NOVO is the huge stone bake oven right at the bar (we think it’s the only one in Kato!). The second thing you’ll be struck by is the sight of all the chopped wood, used for said oven, stored all around the restaurant, craftily incorporated into the decor. The restaurant has a fantastic feel to it, with pots of herbs adorned on the outside wall of the courtyard garden. Now, order your food and watch as it’s all made in the glass walled kitchen outside - try not to put the chefs off from their fine work. You may notice the menu is printed on regular paper, and for good reason, as the menu is seasonal and regularly updated, although they do have their regular dishes. The wine list is huge and we’re sure you’ll find something to tickle your fancy.QO‑12, ul. Warszawska 15, tel. (+48) 572 35 91 31. Open 12:00-23:00; Mon 16:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. TB6 PRODIŻ BISTRO Hearing about this place had us excited for many reasons, not least because we were delighted when Fabryka Porcelany underwent revitalisation - we love old buildings that are given a new lease of life through a perfect blend of traditional elements mixed with modernity. And that’s exactly what Prodiż Bistro offers. A great place to come Mon-Fri for breakfast (until 12:00) and lunch (from 12:00). Choose from daytime favourites like omelettes, sandwiches, (special mention goes to their burgers!) with great coffees, but be aware, the menu changes regularly, so best check out their Facebook page for the latest offerings. One consistent element is the pizza, made in a woodfired oven (Poland’s tallest, apparently!), which gives that extra oomph to the taste. If you miss out on the daytime eating, no worries, for the new venture by the owners is Prodiż Nero, which raised our eyebrows even more - as if one good place wasn’t enough, huh? Enjoy both. We did.QU‑13, ul. Porcelanowa 23, tel. (+48) 66 716 21 05. Open 08:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. €. TUB6

RISTORANTE CRISTALLO 5 Dworcowa Street, Katowice Phone: +48 32 782 82 82 www.Ihr.com.pl mailto:monopol@hotel.com.pl

www.likusrestauracje.pl

PRODIŻ NERO RESTAURANT Bistro by day, and Nero by...well, nero. Following on from the success of Prodiż Bistro’s rise in popularity after its opening in 2016 in the revamped Fabryka Porcelany, the owners have stepped up their game with their latest venture - the perfect blend from bistro to fine restaurant has culminated in the arrival of Prodiż Nero. If you’ve been impressed by Bistro, Nero offers up that little bit extra. Italian dishes, offered with the local flare of the chef, which to us perfectly sums up the impressive changes in gastronomy in Katowice over the last 10 years - traditional, mixed with a confident modernity. Nero serves up some fine pizzas from a wood-fired oven (ahem, the tallest in Poland, apparently!) and a frequently changing menu means you’ll always be surprised by each visit (best check their Facebook page for menu updates). The location is unique, the bistro is already awesome, and Nero just continues the good vibe of the area. QU‑13, ul. Porcelanowa 23, tel. (+48) 66 716 21 05. Open Fri 17:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-20:00; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. €€. TUB6

MEDITERRANEAN AÏOLI INSPIRED BY KATOWICE AïOLI Inspired by Katowice brings yet more Mediterranean flare to the city’s Rynek to accompany the deck chairs and palm trees next to the ‘mighty’ Rawa River. AïOLI is already majorly popular in Warsaw and Gdańsk, so it’s nice to see them branch out further to Kato (their first venture in the south of the country), and right in the heart of the city - it’s hard to miss them with the brightly lit sign on top of the building. The interior is the usual AïOLI style of post-industrial furnishings and open kitchen. As for the menu, as expected of AïOLI, it’s quite extensive, which means there’s always something for everyone: pasta with frutti di mare? No problem! Pizza? Burgers? Coming right up! We’re sure AïOLI will fit right in to the changing landscape of Kato. A restaurant and bar by day, on the weekends it becomes quite a lively music venue too.QN‑12, Rynek 5, tel. (+48) 32 220 83 48. Open 09:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-03:00. €€€. TUBE6 LA CANTINA Here we go dropping the superlatives: Located 4km from Katowice’s centre in lovely Dolina Trzech Stawów (wait for it), those who make the trek out to this Mediterranean charmer (wait for it) will be rewarded with not only the beautiful surroundings of Valley of Three Ponds (wait for it), but also Katowice’s finest restaurant, hands down and undulating in adulation (!!). The stone and wood interior - comfortably casual, but with all the expected finery creates a warm dining atmosphere that will ripen any mood. Top off your superb meal of decadent delights with a killer wine list and it’s easy to forget Katowice isn’t located somewhere in Provence.QS‑16, ul. Trzech Stawów 22, tel. (+48) 32 256 29 27, www.la-cantina.pl. Open 09:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-24:00. €€€€. XTU B6 VIA TOSCANA A sensory delight awaits you on the second floor of Altus Tower with intriguing interiors touting archways, lampposts, vines and even mock balconies. It’s every much as delightful on the palette as it is on the eye, with a menu featuring Argentinean beef, a great pickled salmon carpaccio and seafood. The house specialty is octopus in a white wine sauce with cherry tomatoes and arugala served over pappardelle pasta. Wine and dine al fresco on their expansive 60 person terrace. Equally suited to romantic trysts or hushed business dinners, Via Toscana is further proof of Katowice’s growing stature. QO‑11, ul. Uniwersytecka 13 (Altus Tower), tel. (+48) 32 603 01 91, www.viatoscana.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. XTUB

Read more reviews online: katowice.inyourpocket.com

Mediterranean Cuisine THE BEST MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT IN THE REGION Let us take you to a Mediterranean climate where you can feel the rhythm of a sunny day. Our restaurant can be found in the HOTEL ALTUS PRESTIGE, FIRST FLOOR. ul. Uniwersytecka 13, Katowice mobile +48 512 020 808 tel +48 (32) 603 01 91 katowice@viatoscana.pl www.viatoscana.pl 69

Restaurants

Restaurants drinks with friends - you won’t be disappointed.QO‑12, ul. Francuska 1A, tel. (+48) 32 253 56 04. Open 10:00-22:00; Mon 10:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-01:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. €€. UB6

+ 48 604 866 173

the straight ahead authentic Tex-Mex they serve. Mouthwatering spices meld with fresh ingredients, almost all of which actually belong in Mexican dishes (no kapusta rancheros here!). They even offer imported chipotle and habanero sauces if you want to fire up those fajitas. Besides great food and drink the atmosphere is relaxed and there’s absolutely no risk of being serenaded by a pimply faced Politechnika student in a sombrero. Muchos Bravos Mexicanos!QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 18A, tel. (+48) 790 82 26 82. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€. B

QUEBAB FACTORY NEW Aiming to change the appearance of Middle Eastern food, Quebab has opened its doors in the very heart of Katowice. Don’t get this place mixed up with any old kebab place, Quebab offers up some mean kebabs, and plenty of other delights from salads, Indian chicken tikka to shish kebab, all to get your eyebrows raised. The key things about our kebabs were thus: the dough was not soggy, the meat (chicken and lamb) were plentiful and not dripping with fat - it might sound glaringly obvious to say, but this has been the downfall of many other venues we’ve visited. As for the mega rollo option, be careful, it’s damn tasty, but we didn’t quite expect it to be 0.5 metres long - we’re sure there will be many to gleefully take up this challenge. Alcohol is available, as is shisha, and all can be enjoyed in the outdoor seating.QN‑12, ul. Mielęckiego 3, tel. (+48) 513 608 303, www.quebabfactory.eu. Open 11:0024:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-04:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. €. TB6

MIDDLE EASTERN

POLISH

AMFORA RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR There’s nothing better than the excitement of trying new food. Think of the delight on our faces when we entered expecting to eat middle-eastern dishes (already a plus), only to find that one of the stars of the menu is muhamara - a perfect Syrian alternative to hummus. But there’s more. The menu is filled with many meat and vegetable delights, plus sweet desserts like baklava. We particularly liked the lamb kofta with Arabic-style pickles, hot pepper, harissa and yoghurt. As for the interior, it’s modern but the waitressing style is old-school to the core - friendly, knowledgable, simply professional. You’ll be delighted to know the bar serves up some snazzy cocktails, from classics to some unique in-house recipes. Wine is also available, and goes great with the meals. Each Tue you can enjoy jam sessions too, so come here for food, or come here for

CADENZA Occupying a prominent position on the second floor of the country’s foremost concert hall, Cadenza has a lot of rolls to fill; it is the pre-concert venue for dinner, drinks or snacks; it is the intermission wine and cake stop; it is the catering kitchen for all NOSPR special events that happen both inside and out; it is, most importantly, the most cutting edge and innovative Polish restaurant in Katowice. Every seasonal dish is carefully composed and explodes in a symphony of pianissimo and fortissimo flavors. The baked ham with venison, Silesian style noodles, pickled cabbage purée and Jerusalem artichoke is a clear standout, and we will gladly return for an encore performance of more of their inspiring culinary delights.QO‑10, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 47, www.cadenza.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; closed Mon. €€€. TB

3 Maja 33 street - where two great White Monkeys meet MEXICAN BIAŁA MAŁPA MEXICO Drum roll, please! A new venue in what is probably our favourite courtyard in Katowice has arrived. Found right in the city centre, this place has an awesome street mural by local Silesian artist Raspazjan and the fantastic Biała Małpa with its multitap and craft beer offerings; and now Biała Małpa is branching out into the food world with its sister venue ‘Biała Małpa Mexico’ - no prizes for guessing what kind of cuisine they have! Thanks to their Mexican chef, you’ll be delighted with the style of the food with all the classics you’d expect on offer. Inspired by their sibling across the courtyard, they have 6 taps for beer lovers (27 if you combine it with next door’s Biała Małpa), but in true Mexican style, tequila tasting boards and margaritas are definitely worth a try! As if there wasn’t enough reason to visit this courtyard before, you now have a fantastic choice of venues to choose from. A mural, great drinks, great food, all in one amazing courtyard. Recommended.QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 38, tel. (+48) 604 86 61 73, www.bialamalpa.pl. Open 14:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 14:00-23:00. €€. BE EL MEXICANO If you’re anything like us and you’ve tried one too many cabbage filled tacos in mexican kitsch-fiestaurants across Poland, then you’ll understand our initial hesitation. But as soon as we saw the tastefully colourful exterior of El Mexicano, we knew this was something special. The small and brightly coloured interior balances perfectly with 70

BAKLAVA NEW Found just a short distance away from the city centre, along ul. Warszawska, is a fantastic little haunt to get some sweet Turkish tea, coffee and Baklava. This place is definitely popular with students (hello, Erasmus people). Basic in style, with a simplistic traditional yet modern feel, this is a pleasant place to sit back and up your sugar levels. Baklava initially functioned as a cafe-bar, but has now introduced food to their menu, which we’re sure all will be more than happy to sample. As we’ve already mentioned the student element, it’s worth nothing that Erasmus karaoke Tuesdays take place here, so best check their Facebook page for details. We’ll be back.QP‑12, ul. Warszawska 57, tel. (+48) 508 48 79 05, www.baklava.pub. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-21:00; closed Mon. €. TUBE6

La cocina de México Mariacka 18a, Katowice tel. 32 209 01 40 www.elmexicano.pl 71

Restaurants QUICK EATS

EUROPA Those who like to complain about the Poles’ frequent inability to form an orderly queue will be amused by this classic milk bar, which features a series of gates and fences to curb queue barging. Once you do get to the counter, take your pick from a range of local, ludicrously cheap flour-based dishes, a surprisingly decent bean soup, goulash and instant mashed potatoes. School dinners for grown ups, collect your food, pick up a knife and fork, pay the lady and away you go/go away. QN‑12, ul. Mickiewicza 8, tel. (+48) 32 259 66 96. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. €. KARTOFELNIK One of the more interesting culinary trends to have popped up in Poland, although given the country’s enduring love affair with the humble spud it makes perfect sense. At this bright bistro (also an eco mini market) they’ve truly made the tater great by pairing it with all sorts of healthy and exotic fillings. Their huge organic and perfectly baked jacket potatoes become flavour transportation devices when paired with hummus, kimchi, chili con carne, various curries and more. They also have daily soups on offer and organic juices.QO‑12, ul. Mielęckiego 4, tel. (+48) 507 50 35 57. Open 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €. TB6 OKIEM I BRZUCHEM This is perhaps one of the simplest restaurant concepts in the world, but near to impossible to pull off perfectly: Soup. This rustic resto gets about as close as you can to perfection by serving up healthy and hearty bowls of delicious liquid gold. The daily menu hangs above the self-serve counter, with intriguing options like turkey/gizzard/veggie/bullion and red pepper/roasted pumpkin/chili/tomato/garlic during our visit; always 3 veggie and 3 meat options. Best yet, they offer a three-mini bowl tasting option so you can try as many as possible. Without exaggeration, each soup seems better than the next, and you’ll be savouring every spoonful. Soup for the soul.QM‑13, ul. Kościuszki 18, tel. (+48) 695 73 87 22. Open 12:00-19:00; Sat 12:0017:00; closed Sun. €. TB6 72

Restaurants CHATA Z ZALIPIA Paying homage to the specific folk art tradition of the far-away Małopolska village of Zalipie, the rustic cottage interior of this pleasant peasant offering features elaborate flower murals on the white walls, garlic garlands hanging from timber beams and plenty of other farm fittings. Delicious Polish home-cooking is served on beautifully decorated ceramic dish ware, while waitresses in traditional dress and disco folk music round out what serves as one of the best introductions to Polish cuisine in Silesia. They’ve even won several culinary awards and what’s more, many Polish stars of stage and screen seem to count themselves as regulars. The one and only Slash polished off some pierogi (made from their own recipe) here not so long ago. Rock and rolada!QN‑13, ul. Wojewódzka 15, tel. (+48) 32 205 33 00, www.chatazzalipia.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. TU6 RYCERSKI Located in what appears to be a wooden mountain chalet (but is in fact the Hotel Rycerski), this is a very decent place to take in the Polish food experience. Heavy wooden benchstyle furniture, friendly waitresses and large servings of wellprepared Polish grub are actually worth the trip out here, even if you’re not staying in the adjacent hotel. Lots of seating and a well-stocked bar mean that the atmosphere often develops into that of a thriving beer hall.Qul. Będzińska 53 (Hotel Rycerski), Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 763 58 88, www. hotel-rycerski.pl. Open 08:00-22:00. €€€. TUB SMAQ FOOD & WINE Located in the fantastic Q Hotel Plus Katowice, don’t be put off thinking that you have to be a guest to eat here, it’s open to the public, and we’d highly recommend a visit. When we personally stayed at the hotel, we were delighted with the impressive breakfast offering, so we knew we simply could not pass up the chance see what they had on offer later in the day. The restaurant specialises in traditional Silesian produce and dishes with a modern twist (which are delightful), but international cuisine is also on offer. The helpful staff are always eager to help you, should you be unsure of what Silesian cuisine entails! Tuesdays are all about pasta with 5 dishes on offer, and Thursdays are steak & burger day! As for Sunday, this is family dinner day (we recommend booking in advance). For those looking to save a buck or two, Mon-Fri between 12:30-15:00 is happy hour - the same two dishes for the price of one! Recommended.QN‑13, ul. Wojewódzka 12, tel. (+48) 32 740 99 40, www.qhotels.pl/katowice-plus/o-restauracji. Open 06:30-10:30, 12:30-23:00; Sat, Sun 07:00-11:00, 12:30-23:00. €€€. TU WIEJSKA CHATKA (THE RUSTIC HUT) This truly traditional Polish and Silesian restaurant is a nice change of pace if not slightly out of place. A cavalcade of country-style adornments such as old farming tools and painted flowers contrast nicely with the bright white walls. The background music is as kitschy and folky as it comes which goes perfectly with the large portions of

hearty Polish staples and Silesian delicacies piled high upon your plate. They also offer breakfasts and lunch specials and a boat load of beverages to boot. This urban ‘Village’ is one you just must pillage when you’re in town. QN‑9, Pl. Grunwaldzki 4, tel. (+48) 32 350 30 10, www. wiejskachatka.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 10:0023:00. €€. TB ZŁOTY RÓG (THE GOLDEN HORN) A combined delicatessen and place to stand at a table and eat in the style of a train station buffet, this humble-looking establishment churns out a large array of outstanding dishes ready to eat in an instant from pierogi to roast beef, all served with a superb choice of side dishes and salads. If you don’t mind the peculiar dining arrangements you won’t find it easy to get a better and tastier bargain than in here. Check in or visit their FB for details on daily discounts. QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 2, tel. (+48) 32 253 78 48, www. zlotyrogkatowice.pl. Open 07:00-18:00; Sat 08:00-14:00; closed Sun. €€.

SILESIAN MOODRO RESTAURANT Not to be confused with the Bistro/Cafe of the same name across the courtyard in the main museum complex, this is the much larger and more elegant restaurant in the old Machinery Building of the Silesian Museum. The refined exposed brick interiors with large picture windows overlook the rest of the Museum’s stunning campus. Their exquisite seasonal cuisine can best be described as Modern Silesian Fusion. Expect futuristic European fare and classic Silesian with flare (think rolada śląska with dumplings and red cabbage etc.). With a great wine list and impeccable service, you may find yourself becoming a repeat customer, Museum visit or not.QP‑10, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1A (Silesian Museum), tel. (+48) 795 55 93 01, www.moodro. pl. Open 12:00-22:00; closed Mon. €€€. UB ŻUROWNIA If you’re not familiar yet with the Polish soup Żurek, it’s your lucky day. It is a sour rye soup and one of the most iconic of all Polish soups. This new bustling bistro is a shrine to the humble soup and you can order a big ole bowl with hard boiled eggs and/or sausages. But you know what they say, come for the soup and stay for the Silesian street food. The local patriotism is strong in this place (the main menu is in Silesian and the cooks shout at each other in it) and they scoured the whole region for the best quick bites they could find. Try the ‘Ślązak’ aka Silesian kielbasa hot dog or a ’Hajer’ tortilla wrap with red cabbage, beef and pickles, among other things. This is Silesian soul food served up fast and cheap as chips (braty)! Additionally, a weekly seasonal menu is on offer consisting of Polish and International dishes. There is also a conference room (holds up to 30 people, catering available), should you need it.QM‑13, ul. Ligonia 16, tel. (+48) 535 08 46 66. Open 12:00-22:00; Mon 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. TU6 73

Polish Alcohol

Polish Alcohol VODKA TRANSLATOR Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world, many of which date back centuries. The most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere, Chopin, Luksusowa, Ostoya, Pan Tadeusz and Wyborowa, all of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop.

1. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA

Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. Though it comes in a variety of flavours, the original orange label (‘tradycyny’) is an aged, amber-coloured liquor flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa has a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything you’re likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, we prefer it on ice.

2. ŻUBRÓWKA

4 Polish Alcohols You Have to Try …plus several others that also work… 74

One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka - also known as Bison Grass Vodka - has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to the primeval Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste which has been described as ‘floral’ or having traces of almond or vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka’ or ‘szarlotka’ depending where you are.

3. KRUPNIK

Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet liquor made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking booze doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added.

4. MIÓD PITNY

Mead, or ‘drinkable honey,’ preceded beer’s arrival in Poland and has remained a favourite since the Middle Ages. Since 2008, Polish meads have been protected under EU law as a traditional regional specialty. Distilled from honey, the drink is extremely easy to consume and comes in four strengths with Połtorak being the strongest (15-18%).

While clear vodkas are generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mixing in cocktails, the real fun is in sampling Poland’s flavoured vodkas and nalewki - a more general term applied to a large range of Polish liqueurs and aged tinctures made from vodka or neutral spirits and fruits, herbs and spices. Vodka shot & snack bars like Pijalnia Wódki on ul. Mariacka 8 (p.26, O-12) are a great place to try them. Here are just some of the notable varieties you can find at the bar or shop. Wiśniówka - cherry vodka Cytrynówka - lemon vodka Pigwówka - quince vodka Orzechówka - walnut vodka Piołunówka - wormwood liquor Wódka figowa - fig vodka Wódka śliwkowa - plum vodka Wódka gruszkowa - pear vodka

BEER GARDENS This vast Silesian Metropolis has a tendency to overheat in the summer and the best way to beat the heat, in our humble opinion, is to slip into some shade and sip the day away. But the fact remains that all many of us want when that mercury rises is to just collapse with a brew. Luckily for you, we have a few recommendations on where to go. The glorious pedestrian thoroughfare ul. Mariacki (p.26) is perhaps the no.1 party destination in all of Silesia and should be your first stop. From Apr-Nov it is transformed into one giant Beer Garden. Most of the bars crowding this strip are decent but there is a trend towards quantity over quality so be careful under whose parasol you park. If the suns’s a bit too much, perhaps avoiding the rays in an urban courtyard is right up your street? Biała Małpa (p.77) and Upojeni (p.80) have two of the finest choices in the city centre. Some of us simply just love the sun and will want to get away from the bustle of the city. For you outdoor types, Sztauwajery (p.33) in the Valley of Three Ponds is one heck of a choice. Silesia Park (p.34) is also not a bad option, as the restaurants have gardens, although not the best choice if you’re with a boisterous group! There’s always somewhere in Katowice and the surrounding area for you to sip on the summer nectar. 75

Nightlife

Nightlife BARS & PUBS 27TH FLOOR A display of model aeroplanes, cocktails galore and impressive views of the city from the 27th floor mark this interesting adventure inside the Courtyard by Marriott as one worth further investigation. You can visit here, or the restaurants, Mon-Thu 14:00-22:00, Fri & Sat 14:00-22:00 and Sun 13:00-22:00. If you’re just here for the bar, it’s open Mon-Thu 18:00-00:00, Fri 18:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00-02:00 and Sun 16:00-00:00.QO‑11, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32 601 00 27, www.27thfloor.pl. Open 14:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. X

Summer lounging right in the city centre in Biała Małpa (p.77)

Katowice’s nightlife is improving steadily, with more and more bars and clubs opening that hold themselves to a higher creative standard. While there was a time when a Saturday night on the town felt like creeping quietly through a cemetery, that has all changed in a hurry with the emergence of ul. Mariacka (O-12) as the city’s nightlife headquarters. A pedestrianised threeblock stretch that was once all strip clubs and shady gay saunas (ok, those are still there), the city has put a lot of energy into cleaning it up and turning it into the high street it should be. Despite some dreadful urban design decisions including ugly, uncomfortable benches and strange sculptures, the city is finally seeing results with a plethora of restaurants, cafes, cocktail bars and clubs moving in to give the city centre some buzz. In summer, Mariacka is full of outdoor seating and flooded with people, but there are plenty of other hedonist hideouts to discover elsewhere with the help of this guide. The venues we list below are located throughout the Silesian Metropolis, with the name of the town added to the end of the address after a comma (with a map reference if applicable) if it is not in Katowice proper; districts of Katowice are shown in brackets. The opening hours we list are flexible; basically if people are drinking, the barman is pouring. Below is a list of recommendations depending on what you’re looking for. ELITE Katowice isn’t exactly the place to take your twentysomething arm trophy for a romantic weekend, but you can probably 76

pick one up while you’re here. To that end try Cooler Club (p.81) or the more sophisticated Upojeni (p.80). LADS Foreign funboys can mix with the locals in the context of their own culture in the likes of Polish shot bars on Katowice’s main party strip, ul. Mariacka (0-12) then head to Klub Pomarańcza (p.81), before drinking enough Guinness to lurk across the lively dancefloors of Rajzefiber (p.81) or the classic City Pub (p.78). STUDENTS Not the most discerning demographic, students will go anywhere there’s fun music and cheap drinks, namely Browariat (p.80); those with more intent to impress will try Spiż (p.81), or Kato (p.79). COUPLES Couples looking for romance should find it by dropping in to Old Cuban (p.80) for some of the best cocktails in the city and a truly tropical atmosphere, before retreating to the cosy cushions of Longway (p.79). ALTERNATIVE Katowice has a fair number of alt. venues with gamer orientated Cybermachina (p.78) and artsy Drzwi Zwane Koniem (p.78) being among the best offbeat boozers in the city. Hipsters and beer loving backpackers gravitate to Biała Małpa (p.77). Those with more elevated musical tastes will find few finer clubs than INQbator (p.81), whether there’s a live concert on or not.

ABSURDALNA Bringing modern art, street food and craft beer together under one roof: what an absurdly fantastic idea! When you first walk into this exceedingly colourful bar you could mistake it for an art gallery as the large front room hosts a rotating selection of edgy contemporary art. Keep heading deeper and you’ll find several rooms filled with funky furniture and all sorts of nifty nooks for you to snack and sip in. When you finally make it to the bar you’ll be delighted to find a 16 tap bar set up to serve a rotating variety of Poland’s latest and greatest craft brews (with a strong emphasis on Silesian Breweries). The street food menu offers tasty plates of cheap sides and mains. Check out their FB for upcoming events.QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 3, tel. (+48) 537 67 02 70, www.absurdalna.pl. Open 15:00-00:30; Fri, Sat 15:0002:30. BE AMNEZJA Amnezja has a lot going for it without a lot of gimmicks. Unlike many of the other shady shot bars and crowded student dives, this place is seriously spacious, offering all sorts of nooks and crannies to tuck away in over three floors. Their buzzing beer garden is great for seasonal people watching on the Mariacka strip. There is a slight Western vibe with a lot of exposed brick and tasteful black murals of cowboys, Krakow and Katowice by art.pl. But the star of the show is most certainly the beer. Their claim to fame is the delicious super fresh “14 day” Tyskie which they get straight from the factory (which you can also takeaway). The perfectly poured Pilsner (in 3 different ways, no less) is equally worth your attention. In short, Amnezja is a great spot for groups, dates or solo acts looking to enjoy a modern day Silesian saloon.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 16, tel. (+48) 504 06 79 03. Open 11:0003:00. XB BIAŁA MAŁPA (THE WHITE MONKEY) This alabaster ape drapes itself in cool and drowns itself in sudsy pools of amber nectar nightly. This premium primate has achieved cult status among Katowice beer lovers. You’ll see why as soon as you squeeze through its monkey bars. Warm woods, exposed brick and a new heated outdoor beer garden greet you before you even see the star of the show... the wall of beer! The biggest and oldest Silesian multitap bar has over 400 bottled varieties of Polish, Czech,

KATO FOR BEER LOVERS

After a dozen or so hangovers (and extra trips to the shop for bog roll), Polish beer generally leaves one with an understanding of why vodka is so popular in Poland. Silesia has the honour of being home to the two worst offenders – Tyskie and Żywiec – which enjoy ubiquitous national distribution and sadly also bear the mantle of Polish beer abroad. Basically a diet of these two gets boring fast for anyone with a real affinity for beer. What too often goes unrealised is that Poland actually has hundreds of independent micro-breweries that produce delicious beer. More and more bars in Katowice are popping up serving ambitious brews from tap and bottle. Some are even declaring it to be the year of beer! Biała Małpa (p.77) has perhaps the largest selection of draft and bottled beers in Katowice and will even please the fairer sex with their offerings of enhanced beers (think berry beer, chocolate beer and lemon beer). They offer a constantly changing selection of craft beers from around the globe but with a specific emphasis on the many Polish micro-brews gaining prominence. Beer experts, buckle up! It’s super trendy, but the beer in ul. Mariacki’s (0-12) Kato (p.79) is also super tasty. The selection of bottled micro-brews is always in flux but there are plenty to choose from; we recommend Magnus, a sweet dark beer from the Jagiełło Brewery in far eastern Poland. If you’re looking for something more local, head to Kontynuacja (p.80) or Absurdalna (p.77) to try a draught from one of the many local micro-brewers that have popped up in the region in recent years. At either place you can try a brew from Kraftwerk - these electro pop piwo pioneers are concocting some of the best Silesian beer, if not best Polish beer around. If you want to stack these national ales against their Czech counterparts make sure to stop into Hospoda (p.61) and immerse yourself in a sea of Czech suds from Kozel Dark to Rychtar to Radogast. If German Beer is your thing than head to the brand new Browariat (p.80) for a bucket of Bavaria’s finest brew. If it’s multi-tap you want, head to Upojeni (p.80) with their fine selction of craft beers. Spiż Club (p.81) which has a solid offering of brews on tap - a beer place by day and a club hotspot by night.The last of the best beer pubs is City Pub (p.78) which has a solid offering of brews on tap but perhaps the most impressive list of domestic and imported bottles in the city. Na zdrowie (‘to your health’); literally.Na zdrowie (‘to your health’); literally. 77

Nightlife TYSKIE BREWERY

MUSEUM OF THE DUKE’S BREWERY IN TYCHY The Tyskie Brewery has been brewing beer continuously for nearly 400 years. Originally German-owned, today Poland’s most famous brewery produces over 8,000,000 hectolitres of ale annually, and 13 varieties of beer, including Tyskie Gronie lager - Poland’s bestselling beer. The enormous historical brewing complex is one of Silesia’s architectural marvels, much of which is open to the public for guided tours. Taking about 2.5 hours and led by a humorous and informative English-speaking guide, the Tyskie tour takes visitors through the entire modern production process and the four-century history of the brewery, beginning in the Brewery Museum. Housed inside a red brick neo-Gothic former Evangelical church built in 1902, this rather superb space combines modernity and tradition across several fascinating multimedia exhibits on the craft of brewing, serving and imbibing beer, and displays full of historical brewing equipment and beer paraphernalia. A 3D film also tracks the history of the Tyskie Brewery through the ages. Next your guide takes you through parts of the production plant (those under 16 cannot enter!), starting from the Old Brewery - an immaculately-preserved space filled with decorative tiles and WWI-era copper vats that have had modern brewing equipment cleverly fit inside them. Highlights include the saucy tales from the so-called ‘Bachelors’ Quarters,’ a glimpse of the brewery’s own railway station and a look inside the fabulously fragrant bottling plant. And of course it all concludes with a tasting session in the on-site pub. Tours are available in in Polish, English, German, Italian, Czech, Russian and in the local Silesian dialect (if you ever wanted to hear what that might sound like), and must be booked in advance. For an extra 20zł, take the extended Ducal Tasting School tour, and learn how to bring a full bouquet of flavours and fragrances out of beer over the course of workshops and tastings with a beer expert.Qul. Katowicka 9, Tychy, tel. (+48) 32 327 84 30, www.zwiedzbrowar. pl. Open 10:00-20:00; closed Sun. Last entrance 3 hours before closing. Visitors must be over 16 and should call in advance to book a place on the tour. Admission 30/25zł. For groups of 20 or more it’s 28zł per person. 78

Nightlife Belgian, English and Irish artisanal beers and ales on hand plus a rotating cast of 20 brews on tap plus 1 pump. And don’t fear the beer, the knowledgeable staff is eager to offer advice and help you navigate their seas of suds. Come for a coffee during the day and fight with all your might to order that first pint of the night or try out their whisky offers! If that doesn’t tickle your fancy, the good folk here have now opened Biała Małpa Mexico in the same courtyard, offering Mexican dishes prepared by a Mexican, along with tequila tasting boards and fantastic margaritas!QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 38, tel. (+48) 720 86 61 73, www.bialamalpa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Sun 14:00-23:00; Fri 12:00-02:00; Sat 14:00-02:00. B CITY PUB One of the places that always comes up when enquiries are made about the best places to drink in town and its cult status is unquestionable. The seemingly small bar is delightfully deceptive as the ground floor houses two bars, numerous private rooms including a billiards, foosball and darts lounge, several larger rooms and a decked out dance floor not to mention smoking rooms and a swanky VIP lounge in the basement with a couple more bars to boot! The true charm of City Pub (the oldest pub in Kato!) is that it manages to walk the line between being a Pub and a Club. Curl up with one of the best poured Guinness in Silesia to watch a match or play some billiards during the week and on the weekends dive into their den of sweaty delinquency. One of the few places we’ve been that also has accommodation just up the the stairs!QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 32 253 97 99, www.citypub.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Mon 14:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-04:00; Sun 14:00-24:00. XU CYBERMACHINA And now for something completely different… Classic Nintendo characters great you as you wander wide-eyed into this neon dream gaming lounge that offers all sorts of entertainment for hardcore gamers, pinball wizards, jenga junkies and the occasional Catan cartel. Order up a craft brew on tap or out of bottle or power up on one of their signature cocktail elixirs and shots. Even if you are flying solo, the wall of console games and the big screen TV streaming worldwide video game tournaments will keep you enthralled all night long. Check their FB page for special events and opening hours, which are subject to change.QN‑12, ul. Św. Jana 10, tel. (+48) 608 12 11 93, www.cybermachina.pl. Open 14:00-01:00; Fri 14:0003:00; Sat 16:00-03:00; Sun 16:00-24:00. U DRZWI ZWANE KONIEM One of the city’s newest “restobars” just also happens to have one of the city’s best beer gardens or, rather, a sprawling green terrace. With plenty of tables and chairs, pallet furniture and beach loungers to choose from they have the perfect seating option whether you’re just stopping in for a quick bite or making a night of it! Inside the hip environs are deftly designed and intimately

inviting. Order up a cafe beverage or lemonade at the bar by day or grab a craft beer or glass of wine by night. Their carefully curated menu features an eclectic mix of Polish and European inspired light appetizers, savoury waffles, Belgian and French fries that you can order all day. The menu will be seasonal and democratic so do let your waiter know if you enjoy your meal. Fresh and refreshing!QO‑12, ul. Warszawska 37, tel. (+48) 32 204 12 53, www.drzwizwanekoniem.pl. Open 14:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-02:00. TB6 KATO Once a discreet DIY bohemian art bar, this hipster hangout is THE place to be seen in Kato’s underground cultural scene. Despite being inside a perfectly sound structure, the bar is made almost entirely of unpainted plywood, from the tables to the wheat-pasted walls covered in graphic nonsense, all in an attempt to convince the shabby-chic clientele that they haven’t gone mainstream on Mariacka, but are merely squatting. Since a recent expansion, tattooed, counter-culture queens and their jacks continue to spill onto the seasonal pallet tables and fritz cola benches. Bolstered by a solid selection of Czech and Polish microbrews, Kato is the best alternative nightlife venue in town, bar none.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 13, tel. (+48) 534 76 76 54. Open 16:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-02:00. BE LONGWAY The newest bar to hit Katowice, serving cocktails and over 250 kinds of vodka from Poland and all over the world. Located in the centre, just along from Plac Wolności, Longway is a quaint bar with a lot of history. Enter to see spruced up original wood furnishings, and a nice, well, long bar! Eager beavers will be interested to know there has been a bar here, in various incarnations, since at least 1912 (the only unaccounted for period being during World War II, which I’m sure you can forgive!). The service is friendly, chatty and informative, great for discussing your next cocktail option! If sitting at the bar isn’t your thing, relax amongst the cushioned area next to the window and watch the world go by, just like this bar has been doing for over 100 years.QL‑11, ul. Gliwicka 10, tel. (+48) 32 253 78 62. Open 18:00-23:00; Thu 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 16:0002:00; closed Mon. E MR. FOX PUB & RESTO This sly fox has a streamlined retro feel and a laid back atmosphere which belies its considerable gastronomic ambitions. The extensive food menus cover all the major meals (including happy hour) and span most current culinary trends from obvious winners like burgers and pizza to healthier fare such as goat cheese salad, plus there’s even a little Mexican thrown in! Their extensive drink menu almost overshadows their impressive food offer with all manner of smoothies, shakes, original cocktails, coffee beverages and tea drinks. Good luck leaving this foxhole unsatisfied.QN‑12, ul. Dyrekcyjna 3, tel. (+48) 32 257 65 17. Open 13:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-01:00; Sun 13:0022:00. B

POOR QUEUING A seemingly straightforward concept, while standing in an orderly line is probably unconsciously ingrained where you come, here in Poland queuing is a cutthroat game of cunning and sabotage. It appears that decades of communist rule, which featured endless necessity-induced queuing to obtain the most basic goods obliterated any respect the Poles had for the concept of an organized line. Such a queue did not bring about any reward during the cold war era. Sadly, the most courteous family was the family without toilet paper in those days. Rudeness and results began an unholy marriage and queue barging became a common practice that endures to this day. In such situations patience is both a blessing and a curse as everyone and (especially) their mother will attempt to oust you in line. Tactics include confusing and deceptive bursts of Polish dialogue to the effect of “I was standing in front of you” (when they clearly were not), “I’m late for something, I have to go before you” or more commonly “I’m older than you, let me go first.” Sadly, this practice is upheld by clerks who will stop fulfilling your request to attend to the barger’s request. Taking into account all of these factors, perhaps the only recourse is indeed a tenacious complacency. 79

Nightlife OLD CUBAN Although it might sound like just a theme bar, Old Cuban is Katowice’s brightest new cocktail star. The experienced mixologists will help you navigate their vast rare rum selection and suggest a perfectly balanced cocktail just for you. Bacardi based cocktails are their bread and butter, but ye ole rum & coke is just the beginning. Order the signature Old Cuban cocktail and be transported to a Caribbean beach with it’s ideal sweet and sour notes with a silky smooth finish. They also have an arsenal of whisky, bourbon, vodka and gin on hand not to mention a fortress of fruit and mixers for whipping up any cocktail under the sun. The atmosphere is lively and laid back (ask about the bras on the walls) and the beautiful bar was built for extended sipping sessions.QN‑13, ul. Wojewódzka 26A, tel. (+48) 530 75 47 66, www. oldcuban.com.pl. Open 16:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 16:0002:00; closed Mon. B PUB KONTYNUACJA It’s official, the beer gods have descended upon Katowice. This super-sleek multi-tap bar is now in its second location just a stone’s throw from the new ‘Rynek’. The style and philosophy are similar to their old location with 16 taps and one pump pouring pints of the finest Polish and European craft micro-brews. The taps rotate on a daily - sometimes hourly - basis but you can always be sure to find the newest brews from Podgórz, Stu Mostów, Cześć and Artezan. Expect the bar to be packed with a healthy mix of hipsters, trend hoppers and beer geeks. So grab a chair and raise your glass in the air, because you ain’t going nowhere. QN‑12, ul. Staromiejska 8, tel. (+48) 668 52 58 25, www. kontynuacja-katowice.ontap.pl. Open 16:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-02:00. UB6 UPOJENI Full disclosure: this writer has a serious soft spot for Polish new-wave multi-tap craft beer bistros that serve up tasty tapas and beautiful burgers which pair perfectly with the delectable nectar flowing from the pristine pipes. In other words, you had me at hello Upojeni. And the fact that this cosy yet modern two floor secluded bar also serves daily breakfast (buy a coffee, tea or even beer between 08:0012:00 and pay between 1-5zł for breakfast, depending if you want basic or fancy), and/or gourmet lunch specials means I have more than enough reasons to justify a return visit in the nearest of futures. Come early, come often and I’ll see you at the bar! Seasonal menu always on offer, as is a lunch and/or a la carte menu.QN‑12, ul. Św. Jana 10 (entrance from the interior courtyard), tel. (+48) 535 07 03 62. Open 08:00-24:00; Sun 14:00-24:00; Fri 08:0003:00; Sat 14:00-03:00. UB6 ŻÓŁTE DRZWI Quality cocktail bars were one of the things Kato seriously lacked for a long time and sorely deserved. The last year has turned the trend around and now the city centre is bursting at the seams. The Yellow Door is the newest entry and it’s an instant classic. The exposed brick and tall wrap-around 80

Nightlife wood bar are the main features of this dark lit one room wonder. But don’t let the size fool you as this place gets packed in the evenings and even hosts concerts and DJs on the weekends. Try one of their bespoke cocktails on for size (whiskey sour all the way) or drop in during the day for quality coffee. Classy and classic.QN‑12, ul. Dyrekcyjna 10, tel. (+48) 690 10 52 00. Open 15:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 15:00-03:00; closed Mon. BE6

JAZZ CLUBS HIPNOZA JAZZ CLUB This intimate, laid-back concert venue books some of the city’s best international gigs, the reputation and subsequent turnout for which often exceeds the size of the space. Packed with interesting characters sitting on truly comfortable couches and lazyboys beneath foil-wrapped ducts and rotating psychedelic spirals on the walls, there’s also a decent food menu of pastas, burgs and zapiekankas (ask a friend) if you get a snack attack.QN‑14, Pl. Sejmu Śląskiego 2, tel. (+48) 660 47 61 56, www.jazzclub.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00; closed Mon. XU

MICROBREWERIES BROWARIAT The brew brothers behind Browariat literally built the bar around mostly Bavarian craft beer brands. Flötzinger, Schonram, Siren, Bolero Snort, Fuerst Wjacek, Auer Brau, Fourpure, The Kernel, Partizan Het Uiltje, Brew By Numbers and Founders brews are on tap and in bottles in a colourful variety of hand crafted ales, dunkels, stouts and IPAs. Each style has its very own corresponding glass, stein or flute. They also offer a selection of beers from a visiting brewer on a rotating basis. Choose whichever tasty beverage suits your fancy and settle into one of the many cozy corners or plunk down in front of a plasma screen and support your favourite sport. They also play music from vinyls, which is a nice touch.QO‑13, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 535 00 97 68, www.browariat.com. Open 16:00-23:00; Fri 16:0002:00; Sat 17:00-02:00; Sun 18:00-22:00. B

WINE BARS BURGUNDIA WINE TASTINGS & WINE SHOP Hidden away down the same dark alleyway as City Pub, Winiarnia Burgundia features both a shop and bar in which to indulge one’s taste for the grape. By far the best of the city’s wine bars, find a slightly snobby albeit enjoyable and relaxed atmosphere. A really admirable selection of world wines and ciders for all tastes and budgets.QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 32 253 75 19, www.burgundia.com.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-21:00; closed Sun.

Where’s the party? facebook.com/KatowiceInYourPocket

CLUBS COOLER CLUB & FOOD If by cooler you mean louder and more self aware, then this is the coolest joint in town, bro. Typical of most fancy fashion clubs we’ve finessed our way into the last few years, Cooler treads a familiar line of indulgent ornate extravagance and modern minimalism in violet, silver and black, with illuminated liquor shelves, fabric covered walls and original bricks. Small, without anywhere to escape the deafening hip-hop and r’n’b pop noise that carries throughout the entire building and down the street on weekends, some (like ourselves) would be better suited to enjoy it in the early evening when it serves quite nicely as a sexy cocktail lounge and place for a lite bite. The club opens Fri & Sat, 21:0005:00.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 20/1, tel. (+48) 508 24 91 98, www.coolerclub.pl. Open Fri, Sat 21:00-05:00. B INQBATOR Hit them on a Saturday and you’ll struggle to find a better venue in town for electro sounds. As such it’s a highly charged crowd you’ll find staring into space with cartoon smiles while repetitive beats shoot fireworks into what is left of their brain. The walls quite literally drip with sweat, while the murky interiors look like they’ve been thrown together as an afterthought by a stoned student with time on his hands. Completely excellent.QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 2, tel. (+48) 668 37 24 33, www.inq.pl. Open Fri 18:0005:00 and Sat 20:00-06:00 only. X KLUB POMARAŃCZA Continuing the Katowice trend of mistaking a club for an airport, this mega-fun factory just upped the ante and went for a total redesign. Once you clear the metal detector, ample cover-charge and grabby security guards hit the massive dance and be prepared for total sensory overload. The floor is beset with all manner of synchronized lighting effects, LED Screens, smoke machines and more lasers than the Death Star. Dancers wiggle away on platforms and perches, lovely ladies watch from the balconies above and couples cuddle in the plush booths all around. But this is just the start! There are a total of 3 dance floors, 6 bars, 2 VIP sections spread over 3 floors. They claim this is one of the most modern Dance Clubs in all of Central Europe and it’s hard to disagree.QM‑12, ul. Mickiewicza 4, tel. (+48) 513 60 03 00, www.klubpomarancza.pl/katowice. Open Wed, Thu 21:00-04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00-06:00 only. XB KLUB PRIME Kato’s hottest dance club has a seriously Prime location and is more than worth your time and attention. Opening up just on Friday and Saturdays, this expansive club offers a mix of industrial interiors, chill out spaces, vip lounge areas and two stocked bars. Their deft DJs spin a mix of techno and bass music bangers with just the right amount of Pop to pack the dance floor. They’re trying hard to make this the prime destination for all heat seeking weekend party peoples and judging from the lines at the door, all systems go go go!QO‑12, ul. Mielęckiego 10, tel. (+48) 883 99 53 73, www.klubprime.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 22:00-05:00.

RAJZEFIBER (TRAVEL FEVER) There’s a new king in town and just months after lowering his drawbridge he already has legions of loyal subjects crashing his castle nightly. Rajzefiber has truly achieved a rare and almost impossible feat by successfully filling a huge gap in Katowice’s nightlife with serious style and enviable ease. The city centre club offers an ambitious lineup of great live music AND hot DJs plus offer a menu of quick bar food and rocking cocktails. Upon entering the recently expanded second floor club we had the feeling we’d been coming here for years. The place was totally packed and already jumping at 19:00 on a Saturday. When we came back at 23:00 there was a line 30 people deep waiting to get in! There’s a rising fever for Rajzefiber.QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 23/3, tel. (+48) 884 90 51 68, www.rajzefiber.com. Open Fri,Sat 18:00-06:00 only. X SPIŻ (BRONZE) Few places have reinvented themselves so fully and completely in recent memory then Spiż. In 2011 the storied dance brewery shuttered their doors for a ‘renovation’. At some point one of the powers that be ended up on a plane to Ibiza and the decision was made to purchase a sound system and light display that would make David Guetta go deaf and blind. In a year and a half’s time the massive two floor club was given a facelift, tummy tuck and a boob job and what you’ll find inside will literally blow your mind. They claim it’s the most modern night club in Poland and from the looks of it they aren’t just blowing smoke (machines)... If you consider yourself a fan of serious clubbing and great beer - it is your destiny to dance here.. till you can’t hear... for a year.QL‑11, ul. Opolska 22, tel. (+48) 32 781 11 32, www.spiz.pl. Open Wed-Fri 21:00-05:00, Sat 21:00-06:00 only. XUB

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT QUEENS This well-regarded club features two bars, one wherein girls go-go dance on a table in the middle and it would be difficult to stand up from some of the seats without picking a stripper up on your shoulders. There’s also a Jacuzzi and a sauna and highly suggestive massage services available year round. Queens also seems to operate an escort service, making their girls, who have been charmingly described as “no pros, simply girls of next door, study or are housewives,” available for business and family functions, movie dates and birthdays (their suggestions). This could be the way to finally become the ‘cool uncle’ at the next family barbecue.Qul. Ceglarska 35, Gliwice (Ligota Zabrska), tel. (+48) 32 305 30 20, www.queensnightclub.pl. Open 20:0005:00; closed Sun. X 81

Shopping

Shopping ‘e’ as exclusive Scotch single malts are their specialty and we dare say they may just have the best selection we’ve seen in all of Poland! Talisker, Laphroaig, and Macallan are just the beginning and the knowledgeable owner/ specialist will gladly help expand your knowledge and improve your pallet. Of course you’ll also find highend bourbons, voluptuous vodkas, lucious liquours and, oh yeah, some pretty good whiskey as well. They also have a great wine, cider and craft beer selection to fill out their impressive offer. We recommend you take your time to find that perfect tincture or tipple because it’s certainly here somewhere.QN‑13, ul. Plebiscytowa 13, tel. (+48) 511 55 54 11, www.whiskyandspirit.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun.

AMBER & JEWELLERY Herbal vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland. Poland is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse. We throw you bone about where to get it below.

Luxury jewellery and products all available at Lilou (p.83)

What little shopping opportunities there are to be found in Katowice are mostly located in the area immediately north of the train station. Like most of 21st-century Poland, many shops are given over to the sale of women’s fashion, with more interesting independent enterprises in seriously short supply. In lieu of the small, communist-era malls around the Rynek, Katowice’s best collection of shops under one roof is the extraordinary Silesia City Centre; if you can’t find what you’re looking for there, then you might have to leave PL to get it. That aside, we’ve made an effort to focus this section on small local or national businesses you won’t find wherever you’re from. More local gift ideas and direct buying opportunities can be found online in the Poland IYP Shop: iyp.me/polandshop.

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but since March 2018 new regulations that will eventually ban Sunday trading in Poland entirely have gone into effect. Phased in gradually, in 2018 trade was only allowed on the first and last Sundays of each month, forcing shops to close on the intervening Sundays. As of 2019, trade is only allowed on the last Sunday of each month. There are only a few exemptions to the rule, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets and souvenir shops (oh, thank god). Note that the Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep only on those Sundays when trade is allowed. The following is a list of Sundays when shops are allowed to be open: July 28 | Aug. 25 | Sept. 29 | Oct. 27 82

ALCOHOL Nothing says ‘I’ve been to Poland’ like a suitcase of booze and an increased alcohol tolerance. Indeed, if retracing your activities while in Katowice you may have to concede that alcohol makes the most logical memento. While Polish beer elicits mixed reports from the foreign community, Polish vodka stands alongside the best, and the country is rightfully seen as the ancient home of the wicked sauce. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands you’ll find in fancy gift sets, but don’t miss Żubrówka (bison grass vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka), Żołądkowa Gorzka (bitter stomach vodka) and Goldwasser with its signature gold flakes. BURGUNDIA WINE TASTINGS & WINE SHOP A really admirable selection of world wines for all tastes and budgets in this shop/wine bar hidden in a courtyard near the train station. Another location in the Altus Centre (H-3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13).QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 32 253 75 19, www.burgundia.com.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-21:00; closed Sun. KONDRAT WINA WYBRANE Not your typical wine shop. Own and operated by a famous Polish actor, they carefully handpick each and every wine that line’s their shelves assuring only the best selection of vintages from the Old and New world for your sipping pleasure.QN‑13, ul. Plebiscytowa 10/1, tel. (+48) 32 205 20 94, www.marekkondrat.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; closed Sun. WHISKY & SPIRIT HOUSE If you happen to be a whisky and high end spirits lover, or you know someone near and dear who is, then this shop is a must stop. It’s no accident they spell ‘whisky’ without an

I COAL YOU A unique gift can come in many forms, but from Silesia, it may seem like a simple solution, but Icoalyou create jewellery made from nothing other than coal! Coal is to Silesia what amber is to the Baltic region and Icoalyou rightly promote their black gold. Each item is handmade and polished, resulting in utterly unique pieces. You can purchase items from various places around Katowice and Silesia, including Gryfnie (ul. Andrzeja 8), Biksa (pl. Marki 1), Hotel Ibis Katowice Centrum, Hotel Ibis Zabrze and the Guido Mineshaft. A full list of places where you can buy these unique gifts can be found on their website.Qwww.icoalyou.com. LILOU This uniquely colourful and immediately inviting salon is filled with all sorts of glittering gadgets, precious pendants, delicate necklaces and leather bracelets. Their elegantly playful nature of the salon gives you the freedom to mix and match any of the items on display. The expert and friendly staff will happily help you choose the right piece and customise it so that special someone will cherish their talisman even more. Lilou is the perfect melding of French elegance and Polish craftsmanship. 2nd location now in Silesia City Center.QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 15, tel. (+48) 32 253 98 68, www.lilouparis.com/en. Open 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-16:00; closed Sun. W. KRZYŚ One stop shopping for all your gold, diamond, pearl and luxury watch needs. They stock hot brands such as Chopard, Omega, Girard Peregaux, Longines, Rado, Certina, Tissot, Calvin Klein and Davosa. They also have watch repair services and they sell accessories. A great excuse to break

out that new Platinum Mastercard. They have a 2nd shop in Silesia City Center, open all week 10:00-21:00.QN‑12, ul. Staromiejska 15, tel. (+48) 32 605 09 00, www.krzysjubiler.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-13:00; closed Sun.

ART & ANTIQUES Antiques are everywhere in Poland and there is no shortage of possibilities for their purchase in Katowice. Serious shoppers will find that the best items end up in the proper antique stores (‘Antyki,’ ‘Antykwariat’), rather than outdoor markets. Remember, if you are taking art that is more than 50 years old and of a potentially high value, you’ll need the proper paperworks and permissions (see Basics). Most proper dealers can provide this straight-away, but you may want to check before opening your wallet. See the Culture section for more art gallery listings. DESA This is Desa’s flagship location in Katowice and this classy show room has a variety of unique antique works of art, furniture, china, collectibles, decorative items and jewellery. Get lost in their spacious cases of treasures from another age. The attentive and helpful art experts on hand are there to help you find the perfect piece for your private collection or that special someone. They also handle the sale and appraisal of works of art and antiques. Also located at ul. Dworcowa 13.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 5, tel. (+48) 32 253 99 22, www.desakatowice.com. Open 10:30-18:00; Sat 11:00-14:00; closed Sun. GALERIA SZTUKI FOX A unique and welcoming gallery specialising in modern art, paintings, sculpture, graphics and hand-made jewellery. Fox also offers decor services, and - somewhat surprisingly - exquisite teas. There is ample parking and the opening hours are merely a suggestion and they will easily stay open longer if you so desire.QM‑14, ul. Powstańców 10, tel. (+48) 32 608 63 71 , www.galeriafox.pl. Open 10:0017:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun.

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILM EMPIK Located in the massive Silesian City Center, this is the best place in town to find English language paperbacks, guide books, a few foreign newspapers and a decent range of CDs and DVDs. One stop shopping for all your mass media wants and needs.QK‑9, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 22 451 03 94, www.empik.com. Open 10:00-21:00; Fri 10:00-22:00. KOMIS PŁYTOWY (RECORD STORE) The largest selection of vinyl we’ve ever seen in PL is hidden in this courtyard off one of Katowice’s main streets. Bargainpriced, though not extremely well-organised used CDs, as well as music-related DVDs, and posters.QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 19/30A, tel. (+48) 32 253 99 45. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. 83

Shopping FASHION & ACCESSORIES

FOOD & SWEETS

International designer clothing and fashion brands can be found in Katowice’s shopping malls, namely the peerless Silesia City Centre (I/J-2). High quality Polish brands to peel an eye for include Reserved, Vistula, Tatuum and Carry. On the opposite end of the spectrum, you should find no trouble locating secondhand clothing stores around the city, ranging from self-respecting retailers to those who offer a room of rummage bins; just look for the words ‘Tania Odzież.’ Finally, the clothing market around Plac Synagogi on ul. Mickiewicza (B-3) is a great place to get stockings with runs in them and underwear stretched and displayed on a steering wheel.

NATURA Ideal for those with dietary needs, Natura sells a range of organic and gluten free health food products, honeys, coldpressed oils, teas, herbs and the like.QM‑14, ul. Kościuszki 57, tel. (+48) 601 70 70 57. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 09:0013:00; closed Sun.

GESZEFT Wonders never cease in this hip store for hipsters and lovers of divine design. We’ve never seen a place exude cool so effortlessly and everything you pick up, look at or try on makes you drool. Ease into the sleek coffee bar and grab a java drink to help you think. Wander the stylish salon which has racks of Polish designer threads, KATO-themed knick-knacks and shoulder bags, funky jewellery and even home decor. Look through art & archi books or grab a Silesian region mag while you curl up in a window seat and search for reasons to linger here a little longer. This unique boutique is one stop shopping for temporary tourists, culture vultures and fierce fashionistas alike. For misses and misters, but not to be missed.QN‑9, ul. Morcinka 23-25, tel. (+48) 534 76 76 54, www.geszeft.co. Open 11:0019:00; Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Sun. M2 OUTLET The exclusive boutique which now has an outlet in Katowice’s Altus Shopping Gallery, featuring collections by Celine, Chloe, Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Balmain, Isabel Marant, Aquazzura, Alexandre Birman, Kenzo, selfportrait, Tod’s, Beach Bunny, Vizali, Yves Salomon, Marc Jacobs, Love Shack Fancy, Alexander McQueen, Ameda Turquesa, Burberry, Alexandre Vauthier, Victoria Beckham, Casadei, Gianvito Rossi, Kotur, One Teaspoon, Maison Michel and Ralph Lauren.QO‑11, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 511 41 07 22, www.moliera2.com. Open 11:0020:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-19:00.

FLOWER SHOPS MADLEN FLOWERS Flowers are wonderful, aren’t they? A perfect gift to the ones we love. Madlen Flowers offers you traditional options for that special someone, from a bouquet of flowers (just take a look at the arrangement of said bouquets and try not to be impressed!), to gifts to have around the house, like helium ballons and to the new trend of having your very own mesmerising mini-forest in a jar! What’s better, you can choose to buy online through their site. Impressive.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 12, tel. (+48) 577 97 42 79, www.madlen.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 11:0015:00; closed Sun. 84

Shopping

ORGANIC FARMA ZDROWIA We’re not sure what it says about the organic farming industry and health food market when the only place to find a store like this is in a shopping mall, but here it is: a small, expensive selection of soy and gluten-free products, natural spices, oils, honeys, and other health-conscious goods. QK‑9, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 32 605 02 96, www.organicmarket.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Fri 10:00-22:00.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS CEPELIA A larger than average version of the national folk art chain selling a range of related arts and crafts from kitsch to quintessential including some fine tapestries, wood carvings, regional dolls and even complete folk costumes for both men and women (upon request).QN‑11, Al. Korfantego 6, tel. (+48) 32 259 87 44, www.cepelia.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. KURKA BEZ PIÓRKA A charming shop promoting art by young local artists, Kurka Bez Piórka specialises in handicrafts and fiber arts, but offers a wide range of art and accessories, including graphic prints, ceramics, hand-made jewellery, home decor items, gift baskets and even paintings and illustrations all made by graduates from Katowice’s Academy of the Arts. QM‑14, ul. Powstańców 4, tel. (+48) 691 40 10 40, www. kurkabezpiorka.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-13:00; closed Mon, Sun. SADZA SOAP This is the ultimate must-have souvenir for the Silesian enthusiast in your family. A lump of pristine coal that you can use to clean off all that coal dust you picked up from visiting one of the region’s many mines. Ok, so it may be a novelty, but it is actually high quality natural active charcoal soap with an absolutely deft design. Yet another perfect stocking stuffer. You can purchase your very own clean coal for around 30zł. They also have shampoo or body wash for 35zł, peeling soap for 40zł and a gift box for 180zł (or mini-box set for 70zł), among other special deals. You can order them online, in selected museums and info points around town or visit ‘MUS Wszystkiego Dobrego’ shop on ul. Bednorza 49/1 where their products are sold. Call or email them for more info.QN‑10, ul. Bednorza 49/1, www.sadzasoap.com. Open Tue, Wed, Thu 09:00-17:00 only.

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang. Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand. Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls. Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry.

KATOWICE, 15 Dworcowa Street SILESIA CITY CENTER, 107 Chorzowska Street lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

Shopping SILESIA CITY CENTER

MARKETS TARGOWISKO MIEJSKIE You haven’t really experienced Poland until you’ve smelt the unique fragrance of fruit, vegetables, fish and Chinese cotton that make up the main things for sale in a classic outdoor Polish market. This small market south of the train tracks comes with red and white striped awnings and a good selection of the aforementioned things for sale at bargain prices.QM‑13, Pl. Miarki, tel. (+48) 32 250 40 08, www. ztm.katowice.pl. Open 06:00-19:00; closed Sat, Sun.

SHOPPING MALLS Located mid-way between Katowice and Chorzów on the site of an old 1904 coal mine, the spectacular Silesia City Center easily trumps everything else in the region. A combined retail, gourmet and entertainment complex, the original 65,000 metre-square building (now over 86,000) was opened in 2005 and in 2011 hotel heiress Paris Hilton descended upon Silesia to open a new wing with 60 additional shops, 2 more restaurants, a dentist office, massage studio, beauty salon and additional parking, bringing the total number of spaces to 3,500 - the largest lot in Silesia. Designed to blend in with the surrounding Gothic architecture, this shopping mall has over 300 shops including Tesco, Media Markt and EMPiK superstores, a Cinema City movie complex and is even a decent place to eat thanks to the upstairs Bierhalle Restaurant, Hana - a magnificent sushi restaurant located externally in the mine’s former swimming pool and the industrial sheik Sztolnia restaurant. Other features include the preserved, red brick St Barbara’s Chapel and the remains of the tower that once lowered the miners underground - now the symbol of the commercial centre. Get there via tram numbers 0, 1, 6, 11, 19 & 23 or bus no.s 108, 109, 662, 673, 674, 820, 830 & 840.QK‑9, ul. Chorzowska 107, tel. (+48) 32 605 00 00, www.silesiacitycenter.com.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Fri 10:00-22:00.

HEALTH & BEAUTY LULUA This niche perfume and cologne shop fields orders from all over the world, but is located right in the heart of Katowice, just up from the Rynek. Specialising in unique artisanal scents, Lulua is lauded for their expertise and unparalleled customer service (a rarity in these parts). In addition to a fantastic array of olfactory enticements, from obscure manufacturers to top luxury brands, Lulua also offers luxury skin care products, shaving kits and men’s grooming accessories. This is an excellent place to pick up a unique gift for either sex.QN‑12, ul. Staromiejska 21, tel. (+48) 502 08 90 92, www.lulua.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Sun. 86

DH SUPERSAM Katowice seems to be making up for lost time and it seems that every other month another new building or museum has a grand opening. This impressive modern glass and steel mini mall is the newest building to pop up in the city center and it certainly classes up the neighbourhood. The Supersam Shopping Centre isn’t entirely a new structure as it was literally built on the supporting steel frame of the original building from the 1930’s of the same name and reopened in 2015. Besides its superstructure, the new reinvented building has very little in common with its historical predecessor save its overarching economic mission to provide shoppers with a broader range of affordable shops, services, restaurants and outlets (100 shops and service units on over 18,000 m2) than you may find in some of the bigger shopping malls in town. Of course you will find a few International commercial stalwarts like Rossmann, Pepco plus a lot of bigger name Polish shops like Empik, Cropp and Reserved. For a full list of shops and services log on to their website or FB page.QM‑11, ul. Skargi 6, tel. (+48) 32 712 18 38, www.supersam-katowice.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. GALERIA KATOWICKA The mighty Galeria Katowicka finally shed its cranes and opened its vaulted doors to a giddy and gasping public in September 2013, in concert with the completion of the final part of the three-stage modernisation of the Katowice Train Station. Featuring over 200 shops and service points including a supermarket, several convenience stores, media and appliance outlets, all the top Polish and foreign clothing and shoe brands not to mention a slew of jewellery and interior design boutiques - the mall literally spills out onto Plac Szewczyka, which is covered in new restaurants and cafes, and includes an underground parking lot with 1,200 spaces (first 2 hours free!). Essentially the cornerstone of the modernisation and general beautification of the entire city centre, Galeria Katowicka and the new train and bus station were designed to smoothly blend into the city’s architecture and act as a convenient corridor of commerce for travellers, business professionals and locals alike. An unavoidable aspect of any visit to the city, those who weren’t around to ‘enjoy’ the old train station will probably never understand just what a blessing this commercial and transport complex really is.QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 30, tel. (+48) 32 414 16 01, www. galeriakatowicka.eu. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

Hotels Katowice, and Silesia in general, is first and foremost a business destination, though it is quickly becoming a premier event hub for festivals, concerts, conferences and sports competitions. Reflecting this fact is an ever expanding accommodation market, with the lion’s share going to business-class hotels. Still, you can find some decent low-price options, especially if you’re willing to lay your head a bit further from the action.

IN KATOWICE B&B HOTEL KATOWICE CENTRUM QM‑11, ul. Sokolska 4, tel. (+48) 32 700 50 88, www. hotelbb.pl. 105 Total rooms. PXU6H hh CAMPANILE QQ‑16, ul. Sowińskiego 48, tel. (+48) 32 205 50 50, www. campanile.com. 77 Total rooms. PU6K H hh COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT KATOWICE CITY CENTER QO‑11, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32 438 93 50, www.marriott.com. 151 rooms (1 apartment). PU LKH F hhhh DIAMENT PLAZA KATOWICE QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 9, tel. (+48) 32 746 70 90, www. hotelediament.pl. 45 rooms (1 apartment). PUL 6KH F hhhh DIAMENT SPODEK QO‑10, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 606 85 85, www. hotelediament.pl. 30 rooms (1 apartment). U6K HCD F hhh HOTEL KATOWICE QN‑11, Al. Korfantego 9, tel. (+48) 32 258 82 81, www.hotelkatowice.com.pl. 161 Total rooms. U6K H hhh IBIS BUDGET KATOWICE CENTRUM QP‑11, Al. Roździeńskiego 18, tel. (+48) 32 350 50 40, www.ibisbudget.com. 124 Total rooms. PU6 h JOPI HOSTEL QN‑13, ul. Plebiscytowa 23, tel. (+48) 32 204 34 32, www.jopihostel.pl. 11 rooms (4 doubles, 1 triple, 1 quad, 2 six-person room, 1 seven-person room, 1 nine-person room, 49 dorm beds). MONOPOL QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 5, tel. (+48) 32 782 82 82, www.monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl. 108 rooms (3 apartments). PUL6KHCDF hhhhh NOVOTEL KATOWICE CENTRUM QP‑11, Al. Roździeńskiego 16, tel. (+48) 32 200 44 44, www.accorhotels.com. 300 Total rooms. PU6K HCD F hhhh 88

Hotels PARK INN BY RADISSON KATOWICE QK‑3, ul. Bytkowska 1A, tel. (+48) 32 721 11 11, www. parkinn.com/hotel-katowice. 168 rooms (1 apartment). PUL6KHDF hhhh

DIAMENT PLAZA GLIWICE Qul. Zwycięstwa 30, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 721 70 90, www.hotelediament.pl. 85 Total rooms. PL6K H hhhh

PATIO ZAJAZD Qul. Kościuszki 352, tel. (+48) 32 202 95 56, www. patiozajazd.pl. 23 Total rooms. 6K

DIAMENT VACANZA SIEMIANOWICE ŚLĄSKIE Qul. Olimpijska 4, Siemianowice Śląskie, tel. (+48) 32 606 83 83, www.hotelediament.pl. 44 rooms (1 apartment). UL6K H hhh

Q HOTEL PLUS KATOWICE QN‑13, ul. Wojewódzka 12, tel. (+48) 32 740 99 40, www.qhotels.pl. 121 rooms (1 apartment). PUK HF hhhh SENATOR QQ‑12, ul. 1 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 32 258 60 81, www. senator.katowice.pl. 49 rooms (1 apartment). L6K H hhh SILESIAN HOTEL QUALITY AND ECONOMY QO‑16, ul. Szybowcowa 1A, tel. (+48) 32 606 88 00, www.silesianhotel.pl. 200 rooms (8 apartments). PU 6KHCD hhh TWÓJ HOSTEL KATOWICE QI‑10, ul. Klimczoka 7, tel. (+48) 32 202 30 25, www. twojhostel.pl. 60 rooms (2 doubles, 20 triples, 20 quads, 7 five-person room, 2 six-person room, 2 seven-person room, 215 dorm beds). U VIENNA HOUSE EASY KATOWICE QM‑10, ul. Sokolska 24, tel. (+48) 32 783 81 00, www. viennahouse.com. 203 rooms (17 apartments). PX UKHDF hhhh

IN CHORZÓW DIAMENT ARSENAL PALACE KATOWICE/ CHORZÓW QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 35, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 832 89 90, www.hotelediament.pl. 115 rooms (1 apartment). PUL6KHCD Fw hhhh DIAMENT BELLA NOTTE KATOWICE/CHORZÓW QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 35, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 606 82 82, www.hotelediament.pl. 45 rooms (1 apartment). PUL6H hhh

AROUND UPPER SILESIA DESILVA INN KATOWICE AIRPORT Qul. Równoległa 2, Pyrzowice, tel. (+48) 32 393 88 88, www.desilva.pl. 77 Total rooms. PU6K HF hhh DIAMENT ECONOMY GLIWICE Qul. Zwycięstwa 42, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 231 18 21, www. hotelediament.pl. 27 Total rooms. UL6K hhh

DIAMENT ZABRZE Qul. 3 Maja 122A, Zabrze (Zaborze Południe), tel. (+48) 32 721 10 90, www.hotelediament.pl. 58 Total rooms. L6K HDF hhh HOTEL RYCERSKI (KNIGHTS HOTEL) Qul. Będzińska 53, Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 763 58 88, www. hotel-rycerski.pl. 26 rooms (1 apartment). KH hhh HOTEL SZAFRANQul. Będzińska 82, Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 784 31 00, www.hotelszafran.pl. 115 rooms (7 apartments). PXU6KH F hhh IBIS KATOWICE - ZABRZE Qul. Jagiellońska 4, Zabrze, tel. (+48) 32 777 70 00, www.ibis.com. 114 Total rooms. PKH hh M HOTEL SOSNOWIEC Qul. Wojska Polskiego 199, Sosnowiec, tel. (+48) 32 363 63 00, www.mhotelsosnowiec.pl. 55 Total rooms. UL6 KH F hhh QUBUS HOTEL GLIWICE Qul. Dworcowa 27, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 300 11 00, www.qubushotel.com. 89 rooms (4 apartments). PU6 KH hhh ROYAL Qul. Matejki 10, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 400 00 00, www. hotelroyal.com.pl. 50 Total rooms. PLK HDF hhh

Hotel B&B Katowice Centrum ul. Sokolska 4, Katowice +48 32 700 50 88

WILLA AMBASADOR Qul. 3 Maja 78, Zabrze (Śródmieście), tel. (+48) 32 271 50 44, www.mosir.zabrze.pl. 24 Total rooms. PK

APARTMENTS HORNIGOLD EURORESIDENCE QM‑13, ul. Kopernika 6, tel. (+48) 32 608 42 52, www. euroresidence.com.pl. 34 apartments. PUL6HD MOSQUITO SILESIA APARTMENTS QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 694 26 63 54, www. mosquitosilesia.pl. 10 apartments. P WELLCOME HOME QM‑12, ul. Jana Matejki 4/2, tel. (+48) 32 555 04 44, www.wellcome-home.com.

5 min

from main Railway Station

from

159 zł Book at

www.hotelbb.pl 89

Index 27th floor 77 Absurdalna 77 AïOLI Inspired by Katowice 69 Amfora Restaurant & Cocktail Bar 70 Amnezja 77 Arthouse Cinemas Katowice 42 Baklava 71 Bangkok 59 Bar a Boo 67 Bar Monopol 62 B&B Hotel Katowice Centrum 88 Biała Małpa 77 Biała Małpa Mexico 70 Bierhalle 62 bistro & cafe zielnik 63 Bistro Polonia 63 Botanika 63 Browariat 80 Buddha 62 BUŁKĘS 63 Burgundia Wine Tastings & Wine Shop 80, 82 BWA Contemporary Art Gallery 29 Cadenza 71 Cafe Byfyj 40 Café Chopin Campanile 88 Centrum Zimbardo 40 Cepelia 84 C'est Si Bon 61 Chata z Zalipia 72 City By Bike 42 City Information Office 25 City Pub 78 Ciuciubabka 45 Coccole di Caffe 54 Cooler Club & Food 81 Courtyard by Marriott Katowice City Center 88 Cristallo 67 Cukiernia Europejska 54 Cybermachina 78 Desa 83 DeSilva Inn Katowice Airport 88 DH Supersam 86

Diament Arsenal Palace Katowice/Chorzów 88 Diament Bella Notte Katowice/ Chorzów 88 Diament Economy Gliwice 88 Diament Plaza Gliwice 89 Diament Plaza Katowice 88 Diament Spodek 88 Diament Vacanza Siemianowice Śląskie 89 Diament Zabrze 89 Drzwi Zwane Koniem 78 Dzień i Noc 63 Ekspedycja Coffeehouse 54 Elka Cableway 37 El Mexicano 70 Empik 83 English Service Taxi 19 Europa 72 Fabryka Porcelany (Porcelain Factory) 50 Flamingoo Cafe & Decor 54 Flyspot Katowice 42 Food & Ball 64 Galeria Katowicka 86 Galeria Sztuki Fox 83 Geszeft 84 Guido Mineshaft 49 Hana Sushi 59 Hipnoza Jazz Club 80 Hornigold EuroResidence 89 Hospoda 61 Hotel Katowice 88 Hotel Rycerski 89 Hotel Szafran 89 Hurry Curry 60 Ibis Budget Katowice Centrum 88 Ibis Katowice - Zabrze 89 I Coal You 83 India Garden Restaurant & Catering 62 Industrial Ethnography Museum 40 INQbator 81 International Congress Centre 31 Jopi Hostel 88 Jumpcity 45

FEATURES INDEX Beer Gardens Decoding the Menu Katowice for Beer Lovers Polish Words & Phrases Outdoor Eating Poor Queuing Quick Eats Street Art Sunday Shopping Ban Tipping Tribulations Tourist Info & Tours Transport Tools/Apps Vodka Translator 90

75 59 77 20 66 79 73 28 82 60 25 17 75

Kartofelnik 72 Kato 79 Katowice Forest Park 33 Katowice Historical Museum 28 Katowice Miasto Ogrodów 29 Kawiarnia Fotograficzna 55 Kawosz 55 KluboGaleria SARP 64 Klub Pomarańcza 81 Klub Prime 81 Kofeina Mini 64 Kolejkowo - A Wonderful World in Miniature 43 Komis Płytowy 83 Kondrat Wina Wybrane 82 Krystynka Wraca z Wiednia Bistro & Cafe 64 Kurka Bez Piórka 84 La Cantina 69 Laserhouse 45 Legendia Amusement Park 36 Len Arte 67 Lilou 83 Lily Nail Spa 43 Little Hanoi...and more! 60 Lobby Bar 64 Longway 79 Lulua 86 M2 Outlet 84 Madlen Flowers 84 M Hotel Sosnowiec 89 Monopol 55, 88 moodro bistro & cafe 55 moodro restaurant 73 Morcinka 3A 63 Mosquito Silesia Apartments 89 Mr. Fox Pub & Resto 79 Museum of the Duke’s Brewery in Tychy 78 Narrow Gauge Railroad 35 Natura 84 NOSPR - Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra 31 Novo 68 Novotel Katowice Centrum 88 Okiem i Brzuchem 72 Old Cuban 80 Organic Coffee & More 55 Organic Farma Zdrowia 84 Pan de Rossa 64 Parachute Tower 32 Park Inn by Radisson Katowice 88 Pasibus 59 Patio 64 Patio Park 65 Patio Zajazd 65, 88 Prodiż Bistro 68 Prodiż Nero Restaurant 68 PTTK Katowice 25 Pub Kontynuacja 80 Q Hotel Plus Katowice 88 Qubus Hotel Gliwice 89 Quebab Factory 71 Queen Louise Adit 49 Queens 81 Rajzefiber 81 Restauracja Cesarska 37 Restauracja Łania 37 Restauracja Max 65

Restauracja Pod Drewnianym Bocianem 66 Restauracja Vacanza 66 Rosarium 35 Royal 89 Rycerski 72 Rynek 26 Sadza Soap 84 Sakana Sushi Bar 60 Senator 88 Silesia City Center 86 Silesian Freedom & Solidarity Centre 33 Silesian Hotel Quality and Economy 88 Silesian Industrial Monuments Route 47 Silesian Museum 31 Silesian Parliament 28 Silesian Rope Park 35 Silesian Stadium 36 Silesian Tourist Organisation Silesian Zoo 36 Silesia Park Murals 37 SilesiaTrip.pl 25 Śląska Prohibicja 40 SmaQ Food & Wine 72 Souvlaki Bar 62 Spiż 81 Spodek 30 St. Anne's Church 39 Steakhouse Da Da 66 Synergia. Dobre Miejsce 55 Sztauwajery 33 Sztolnia. Chleb. Mięso. Wino 61 Tadeusz Kościuszko Park 32 Targowisko Miejskie 86 Tarnowskie Góry Mines 50 Tatiana 66 Thai Sabai 43 The Kraków-Częstochowa Upland 47 The Modernist Architecture Trail 29 Twój Hostel Katowice 88 Ul. Mariacka 26 UNESCO Creative Cities Katowice 47 Upojeni 80 Upper Silesian Ethnographic Park 36 Valley of Three Ponds 33 Via Toscana 69 Vienna House Easy Katowice 88 Villa Gardena 37 Visiting Auschwitz 52 Wellcome Home 89 Whisky and Spirit House 82 Wiejska Chatka 72 Willa Ambasador 89 Wilson Shaft Gallery 39 W. Krzyś 83 WunderBAR 62 Zaklęty Czardasz 62 Zielony Most 63 Zillmann Tea & Coffee 40 Zinc Rolling Mill 50 Złoty Róg 73 Żółte Drzwi 80 Żurownia 73

Gliwice ul. Ceglarska 35 www.queensnightclub.pl Open: 18:00 - 05:00 tel. 032/ 305 30 20

American Bar

Erotic Show Dance

Go-Go Dance

We invite you to Queens nightclub. Discretion is of our highest concern, as immediately evidenced by our parking lot. The interior design of the rooms and equipment complement each other to create an intimate, erotic atmosphere. We dedicate the greatest care to the cleanliness of the club. Your satisfaction is guaranteed.

Genießen Sie in angenehmer Atmosphäre, die perfekt gemixten Drinks unserer Bar, die prickelnde Erotikshow der QUEENS - Girl´s auf der Bühne, während Sie sich entspannt in einem der vielen Sofas zurücklehnen. Sie erleben eine Tabledance Show der Extraklasse, die perfekt aufeinander abgestimmt ist. Die Sound & Lichttechnik im QUEENS Striptease Club unterstreicht dieses noch. Geniessen Sie einen “Private Dance”, den persönlichen Striptease, nur für Sie mit einer Tänzerin Ihrer Wahl. Die Tänzerinnen des Nachtclub´s, verstehen es Erotik, Verführung, Varieté und Akrobatik miteinander zu verbinden. Ob Junggesellenabschied, Firmenfeier, Geburtstag, Vereinsfeier oder Abschlußfeier, der Tabledance Club ist der ideale Ort um einen unvergesslichen Abend zu erleben und tabulos zu feiern. “Dich erwartet eine exzellente Tabledance - Erotikshow” Wir freuen uns auf euren Besuch Euer QUEENS - Team

SILESIA

SHOPPING ENTERTAIN YOURSELF IN A PLACE OF OVER 300 SHOPS, CAFÃ&#x2030;S AND RESTAURANTS. HERE YOU CAN FEEL FREE TO CHOOSE AND ALWAYS BE FULLY INSPIRED. VISIT THE TOP-NOTCH SHOPPING CENTER OF LIVING FASHION, INSPIRING TRENDS AND MEMORABLE EVENTS TO ENJOY YOUR SPARE TIME.

UL. CHORZOWSKA 107

KATOWICE