Krakow In Your Pocket December - January 2019 by Poland In Your Pocket

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Kraków No. 115, December 2018 – January 2019

Holiday Happenings

p.10

Cracovian Souvenirs

p.126

Polish Desserts

p.91

City Guide

Contents

Kraków

Feature Christmas in Kraków

p.6

Arrival & Transport

Cafés

What’s On 16

Restaurants

Sightseeing

Nightlife

112

Activities & Leisure

122

Shopping Cracovian Souvenirs

128 126

Directory

134

Hotels

136

Old Town - walking tour of UNESCO treasures Wawel - Royal Castle complex Kazimierz - walking tour of former Jewish district Podgórze - wartime traces and scenic cliffs Nowa Huta - Socialist Realism suburb Museums

24 28 38 42 50 58 62

Further Afield Wieliczka - medieval salt mine Auschwitz - former Nazi death camp Tarnów - Małopolska’s charming 2nd city

72 76 78

Local Flavours 7 Essential Eating Experiences Traditional Polish Dishes Polish Alcohol Polish Desserts

80 84 86 91

Maps & Indexes City Map Old Town Map Kazimierz Map Podgórze Map Nowa Huta Map Street Index Venue Index Feature & Category Index

142 28 42 50 58 144 145 146

krakow.inyourpocket.com

Foreword Well sprinkle us with sugar, the holidays are here again. If you’re after holiday magic, there aren’t many destinations better than Kraków, which not only looks the part, but also performs it in its own special way. In addition to the inescapable Christmas market (p.10), Poland’s ancient capital has a cavalcade of holiday happenings and traditions over the next two months, and we’ve been detailed them all; do your homework (starting on p.6) and you won’t be surprised to when you get your presents three weeks early, or find a fish in your friend’s bathtub. We’ve also highlighted some uniquely Cracovian gift ideas (p.126), and continued to expand our new Local Flavours section with a rundown of PL’s most delicious coffee companions and after-dinner treats. Because we’ve all been good this year, and now it’s time for our just desserts (p.91). Indeed, it’s been another industrious year for Poland IYP as in 2018 published 27 full print guides to destinations across PL, launched new miniguides to Katowice and Bydgoszcz, and even an online shop (iyp.me/polandshop). In 2019 we’ll be celebrating 20 years of Kraków In Your Pocket with a steadfast commitment to continue publishing the best city guides on the market. Here’s to the next hundred (sto lat!), and happy holidays from everyone here at IYP. Now pass the damn champagne already. A true ‘man without a country’ in the current political climate, Garrett Van Reed is a native of Bucks County, Pennsylvania, who has been living in and writing about Kraków for over a decade. He enjoys exploring his adopted city, unpacking its complex history, and introducing its best attributes to those who visit.

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

years

COVER STORY Cracovian Christmas feels, featuring the iconic St. Mary’s Basilica and the city’s annual holiday market on Rynek Główny, © Anton Gvozdikov. Head straight to one of the barrels dispensing hot mulled wine to properly enjoy the festive season.

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 20,000 copies published every 2 months Writing & Editing: Garrett Van Reed Sales: Monika Szymanek: (+48) 668 87 63 51 Events & Marketing: Monika Boguszewska Stopka (+48) 728 87 94 94 Events Editor: Jason Neale Research: Aleksandra Mańkut, Monika Jakubek, Patrycja Ples, Dominika Sosnowska Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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Christmas in Kraków: a time of reflection, charity and St. Mary’s photobombs.

Christmas ‘po krakowsku’ The Poles, to their credit, really make the most of the holiday season, opening festive Christmas markets (p.10) before the calendar even hits December and carolling all the way into February. That’s over two full months of sustained winter wonderland, and through it all enough customs, traditions and events that we could literally fill page after page of this guide...and indeed we have. Read on to discover all the highlights of the holiday season in Kraków.

Christmas in Kraków Few places in Europe seem more suited for the holiday season than Kraków, a city which when donning a fresh dusting of snow and viewed through its own cheerful prism of holiday magic, quite convincingly transforms itself into an intricate village of gingerbread houses with candycane columns, gumdrop-topped gables and chimneys puffing cotton candy clouds over vanilla-iced rooftops. Give this snow-globe a shake and suddenly the sound of tourist trolleys zipping around blasting pop hits has been overcome by – what’s that on the horse carriages – sleighbells jingling? The smells of coal-smoke and pigeon dander have been replaced by caramelised sugar and hot spiced wine. The obwarzanki (Cracovian bagel, p.81) vendors are peddling toys and tinselly trinkets. The flower market is filled with wreaths and evergreens. Where that guitarist used to shred obnoxious solos, costumed children are carolling. Where that gold-painted hobo used to stand motionless on a box all day for small change – why, it’s Saint Nicholas himself (doing the very same thing)! Indeed, when Kraków decks its halls for the holidays it seems to rather effortlessly embody all the magic that Hollywood has taught us Christmas is supposed to have. It may be without Bing Crosby, but Poland proffers a more than plausible chance for a ‘white Christmas’ – the freshly fallen snow lending a special atmosphere you may not be used to getting in your home country. It’s not all rum-papum-pum and reindeer games, however. Poland has a full calendar of holiday customs and traditions, most of them deeply Catholic in character, that will surely make your experience here a unique, and even at times completely foreign one. We help you get into the local spirit by detailing them below, so you’ll be well-read and ready when you find yourself smitten in mittens beneath the mistletoe.

SAINT NICHOLAS DAY With Christmas Day itself (December 25th) reserved for family and preoccupied with the celebration of the Christ Child, seasonal gift-giving chores are primarily assigned to Saint Nicholas (Święty Mikołaj) who gets the holiday season rolling three weeks early on December 6th ‘Dzień Świętego Mikołaja’, or Saint Nicholas Day. In Polish tradition, Ol’ Saint Nick (or ‘Mick’ as the case may be) isn’t a portly Coke-drinking pipe-smoker who lives at the North Pole, but a dignified and beatified Saint who comes down from heaven in a rather regal purple and gold robe and bishop’s hat, carrying a crosier (you know, one of those staffs shaped like a candy-cane) on the anniversary of his death. In the run-up to Dzień Świętego Mikołaja, eager children write letters to the Saint requesting the one, maybe two (if they’ve been really good) gifts they most desire that year and put the letter outside on the windowsill so the old codger can drop by and pick up their request during the night. On the 6th, Polish children awake to discover Mikołaj’s benevolence with a gift under their pillow or next to the bed, which they rush to show their parents, who then rush them to get ready and out the door, since it’s still a normal school and work day for some reason.

Of course opportunities abound to see Old Saint Mikołaj in the flesh on this day, particularly at festive locations like Christmas markets, preschools and shopping malls.

CHRISTMAS EVE December 24th – or ‘Wigilia’ as it’s called in PL - is one of the biggest feast days of the year and an important time to be with family. As such, though Wigilia is also not a work holiday for some reason, you can expect virtually every shop in Kraków to close early and stay closed until the 27th (arrange accordingly). On the afternoon of the Eve on Kraków’s main square, free food is given out to the poor and the length and composition of the resultant queues is a bit of a holiday spectacle in itself. In the evening it’s tradition that those gathered to eat the vigil feast together first share the blessed Christmas wafer, called opłatek. In an intimate (and potentially awkward if you don’t speak Polish) moment, each person goes to the others in turn, making a blessing for their happiness in the coming year, breaking off a piece of the other person’s wafer and eating it, then sealing the deal with a kiss (or three) on the cheek. Once that formality is out of the way, and the kids have spotted the first star in the sky, the feast can officially begin. Traditionally, bits of hay are spread beneath the tablecloth in observance of Jesus’ manger pedigree, and an extra place is set at the table in case of a visit by the ‘hungry traveller,’ Baby Jesus himself or a deceased relative (whoever arrives first). Dinner consists of a gut-busting twelve courses – one for each of Jesus’ disciples – and because it’s meant to be meatless, the main dish is traditionally carp, which apparently isn’t recognised as meat by Catholics (fish was Jesus’ favourite vegetable). In the days before Wigilia, large, writhing, mildly horrifying pools of carp can be found on the city’s squares waiting to be purchased and brought home for holiday dinner. During the scarcity of the communist times, it wasn’t uncommon for the carp to be bought early and kept in the family bathtub for several days until it was time for the man of the house to clobber it, carve it and cook it. Almost everyone in Poland over the age of 40 has a horrifying/hilarious anecdote to this effect, which we’re sure they’ll be happy to share (every year, without fail). ‘Smacznego!’ (Bon Appetit). Other traditional dishes include żurek and barszcz – the traditional soups, poppy-seed pastries, herring in oil, pickles and an assortment of other Polish salads and sides. The meal concludes with a round of belt-unbuckling and carol-singing until the sudden revelation that at some point during the festivities a cheeky angel (St. Nick gets an off-day for Wigilia) must have snuck in and left presents under the Christmas tree! and gift-unwrapping after the revelation that during the feast an angel has laid presents beneath the Christmas tree (St. Nick also gets an off-day for Wigilia). Gifts are exchanged, merriment is made, and at midnight, most families head out into the cold to attend pasterka, or midnight mass. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Christmas in Kraków NEW YEAR’S EVE

Crowd gathered around the nativity scene in St. Bernard’s Church

It is on Wigilia that Kraków’s churches also debut their holiday ‘szopki’ - which unlike the rather bonkers local mutation (‘szopki krakowskie,’ p.11), more resemble traditional nativity scenes centred around baby Jesus in the manger. As you wander the Old Town between December 24th and February 2nd, don’t miss the chance to check out some of these elaborate displays. Of particular note are St. Bernard’s Church (J-8, ul. Bernardyńska 2), which usually has the most expansive and extensively motorised nativity in town; the Pijarów Church (J-4, intersection of ul. Św. Jana and ul. Pijarska,), which has developed a reputation for having each year’s most unconventional szopka on display in its crypt; and the Kapucynów Church (I-5, ul. Loretańska 11) where you can see one of the most popular szopki in Poland, dating back to the 19th century.

CHRISTMAS DAY After another morning mass, December 25th is reserved for visiting family and friends and a continuation of feasting (this time including meat and alcohol). Many Poles travel on this day to visit extended family. While Christmas Day holds less importance and symbolism for Poles than Christmas Eve, it is still a public holiday and a time for family. Despite the gradual move by many, particularly the younger generation, away from the Catholic Church in recent years, Christmas is still viewed with more religious significance than you might expect in your own country and even those who might not attend mass on a regular basis still respect the traditions of the holiday period. As such, you can expect the vast majority of bars and restaurants to be closed on Christmas Day and the Second Day of Christmas (December 26th), though some businesses are beginning to break this Catholic code of conduct.

December 31st is known locally as ‘Sylwester,’ and on this last night of the year every bar, club, restaurant and hotel in town will be hosting an all-night New Year’s Eve bash. Unfortunately, you have to pay to play and it’s wise to plan where you want to spend your evening well in advance since expensive tickets are required to enter most venues, and therefore pub crawling is not really an option. Your celebratory options are literally limitless, but if it’s the last night of the year and you’re still at a loss, you can always join the masses on the market square and other public places, taking part in whatever free shenanigans the city has organised. Unfortunately - or perhaps fortunately, rather (depending on your point of view) - it’s not the critical mass of champagne corks and fireworks that it once was, or could be. To combat extreme, borderline unsafe, congestion on the market square, as well as serious concerns about smog, this year the city of Kraków will presumably continue to follow its new format for Sylwester celebrations: several stages across the city with non-stop live music and no official fireworks display (you’re on your own in that department; note that there is a big fireworks display on January 13th at the conclusion of the Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity). Last year free, city-organised concerts, festivities and inebriated countdowns took place on the main market square (which still hosted about 20,000 people last year), Rynek Podgórski (K/L-10), Aleja Roź/Plac Centralny in Nowa Huta (p.61), and in Tauron Arena (ul. Stanisława Lema 7). Though nothing had been announced at press time, we assume this year will follow suit. Initial details will be revealed on December 12th, with updates appearing on the city’s dedicated website: sylwester.krakow.pl. The decorations stay up through January and Three Kings Day (p.11), and the Polish holiday season doesn’t officially expire until February 2nd when we suppose Saint Nick sees his shadow and it’s generally agreed that every family should toss their Christmas tree. Turn the page for more info about specific holiday happenings and markets around this merry ‘miasto’, and have yourselves a Happy Christmas and Compulsory New Year, one and all.

SAY IT LIKE A LOCAL “Wesołych Świąt i Szczęśliwego Nowego Roku!” Ve-so-wick Shvee-ont (“Merry Christmas...”) ee Shchen-shlee-vay-go No-vay-go Row-koo! (“...and happy New Year!”) 8 Kraków In Your Pocket

The ball drops on Rynek Podgórski. Happy New Year!

Holiday Markets & Events

The annual Kraków Christmas Market on Rynek Główny. | © Mariusz Cieszewski

30.11 - 07.01 » THE MARKET SQUARE CHRISTMAS FAIR

One of the season’s most popular highlights, half of Rynek Główny is filled with rustic wooden stalls selling all kinds of Christmas ornaments, candies and sweets, knitwear, toys, souvenirs, jewellery, pottery, partridges, pear trees and more. Vendors also dish up hot food, over which families share picnic tables and keep warm with the hot mulled wine (called ‘grzaniec’) dispensed from enormous barrels nearby. And all the while carolling and other random acts of holiday spirit take place on a cultural stage nearby.QI‑5, Main Market Square, www.kiermasze.com.pl.

28.11 - 23.12 » GALICIAN ADVENT FAIR

While the location might be a bit more prosaic than the touristy-yet-charming-as-ever main market square, it certainly is convenient: get all your shopping done in one place, with the Galeria Krakowska shopping centre just a few steps away, and do it all on your way to or from the train station. Plus there‘s an ice-skating rink: and you don‘t have THAT on the main square, do you? As for the stalls, you can expect the usual: lots of regional crafts and pretty Christmas ornaments, mulled wine (try the regional Grzaniec Galicyjski), gingerbread, traditional cheeses, meats, and wintertime snacks. There will also be concerts, and judging from past years, you can expect everything from loud, mediocre rock bands to folk ensembles.QK‑4, Plac Jana NowakaJeziorańskiego. 10 Kraków In Your Pocket

15.12 - 16.12 » HOLIDAY GIFT FAIR IN FORUM

Kiermash (a travelling independent fashion fair) is teaming up with Art & Food Bazar (a monthly food and fashion fair) to create this huge holiday fair at the massive (and massively trendy) Forum Hotel. With over 200 merchants hawking their own original wares (clothing and accessories, jewellery, streetwear, etc.), cuisine and consumable goods, shop for exclusive and stylish presents from local designers, while enjoying a diverse range of drinks and edibles from Kraków’s local tastemakers, including plenty of foodstuffs designed for stuffing in stockings or under the tree. Thanks to the organisation Łał Kraków, there will also be an area full of activities for kids. QI‑10, Forum Przestrzenie, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28, tel. (+48) 515 42 47 24, Admission free.

Paid actors in the annual Live Nativity at St. Francis’ Basilica.

Holiday Markets & Events 24.12 22:00, 25.12 12:00, 26.12 12:00 » LIVE NATIVITY AT ST. FRANCIS‘ BASILICA

SZOPKI KRAKOWSKIE

If you’re rootless in Kraków on Christmas Day, and looking for something to do, St. Francis’ Basilica hosts an annual ‘live nativity scene’ in the field behind the church featuring large crowds, lots of singing children, a warm, raging bonfire and live animals. [Though according to legend animals acquire the ability to speak during Wigilia, as far as we’ve observed it’s just barnyard banter with this lot.] This year the live nativity actually starts after dark on Christmas Eve and continues through Christmas Day and all of the 26th. Free food and drink (basically dinner rolls and tea) is served within one of the church buildings, and just about everyone in town will be stopping by at some point.QI‑6, St. Francis‘ Basilica, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 5.

06.01 » THREE KINGS‘ DAY PROCESSION

A national work holiday in Poland, Three Kings Day is marked by processions in hundreds of cities across the country. These merry pageants of costumed carollers passing out candy honour the three wise men - Kaspar, Melchior and Balthazar - who visited Jesus at his birth. In Kraków you have three processions to choose from, each led by a different king, or magi. The Red Procession, symbolising Europe, will depart from Wawel at 11:00, after a 10:00 mass in Wawel Cathedral (I7); the Blue Procession, symbolising Africa, will depart from Plac Matejki at 10:30 after a mass in St. Florian‘s Church (J-4); and the Green Procession, symbolising Asia, will depart from Plac Sikorskiego at 11:00 (H-5). All three arrive at the Main Market Square (I-5) around 11:15 for a bit of baby adoration during a live nativity, and plenty more carolling.Qwww.orszak.org.

The Three Kings Day Procession leaving Wawel Castle. © Anna Kaczmarz

13.01 » THE GREAT ORCHESTRA OF CHRISTMAS CHARITY

The day of the red heart stickers. Every person you see will have one, and you should too. These ubiquitous stickers are proof that you dropped some coins into the collection box of the Christmas Charity, which has raised hundreds of millions of dollars for the purchase of medical equipment since it began in 1993. To support the effort, dozens of bands will be performing for free around the Old Town all day, and celebrations conclude with a huge fireworks display at 20:00. Coordinated by volunteers in every town across PL, this is a worthy cause, and the heart sticker is a badge of honour, so don‘t be a humbug.QI‑5, Main Market Square, www.en.wosp.org.pl.

The creation of ‘Christmas cribs’ or ‘szopki’ is one of Kraków’s most unique and Christmas traditions. While many churches across the country display elaborate nativity scenes during the holiday season, ‘szopki krakowskie’ (as the local variety are called) are so idiosyncratic that they were just added to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List. Something of a strange and garish cross between a nativity scene, gingerbread house and dollhouse, szopki krakowskie are the bizarre result of a slowly evolving folk tradition that dates back to the Middle Ages. Originally used as puppet theatres for holiday morality plays, Cracovian szopki gradually became more whimsical, secular and satirical in nature, leading to a ban by the Church in the 1700s, and full prohibition in the 1800s due to their political use for criticising PL’s occupying powers. Upon Poland’s return to the world map after World War I, Kraków’s szopka tradition was re-embraced, becoming the celebrated custom it is today. Szopki are made by all walks of life, from preschool classes to expert craftsmen, with family dynasties even emerging. Using a variety of lightweight materials covered with coloured foil, ribbon and other shiny bits, a typical szopka is bright, flashy and festive. Though called ‘cribs’ in English, szopki look more like castles or cathedrals, incorporating recognisable characteristics from Kraków’s architectural monuments into the traditional Bethlehem nativity scene. Most are looselybased off the design of St. Mary’s Basilica, but elements of other iconic buildings like Wawel Castle, the Cloth Hall and the Barbican are also commonly seen, as well figures from Cracovian legend like Pan Twardowski, Tadeusz Kościuszko or the Wawel dragon.

10.12 - 25.02 » SZOPKI EXHIBITION

To support this unique folk tradition, the city has sponsored a yearly competition since 1937, followed by the annual szopki exhibition. Visiting the exhibition is an essential part of the holiday season for local families, so don’t miss it.QL‑4, Celestat, ul. Lubicz 16, tel. (+48) 12 429 37 91, www.mhk.pl. Admission 9/7zł, Tue free. Open 10:30 - 18:00; closed Mon. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Transport

Kraków Airport | Photo by Łukasz Stawiarz

Kraków is well-connected regarding transport, with a new airport just 17km west of the centre, a recently modernised joint train and bus station on the edge of the Old Town, and some of Poland’s better roads connecting it to Katowice, Wrocław and Berlin to the west, Tarnów and Rzeszów to the east, Kielce and Warsaw to the north and Budapest to the south. The city also boasts a comprehensive and easy-touse public transportation system, which some visitors won’t even find necessary thanks to most attractions being within easy walking distance of one another (not to mention walking being one of the best ways to enjoy Kraków). In this section you’ll find all you need to know about getting in and out of Kraków, as well as around the city with general ease.

BY PLANE KRAKÓW AIRPORT Located 17km west of the city centre, Kraków Airport was the subject of a one billion PLN investment, which resulted in the opening of a brand-new passenger terminal in September 2015. Boasting the full services and amenities of a modern airport, the new terminal is connected directly to parking and train transport to the centre, and inside you’ll find ATMs and currency exchange, tourist information, car rental desks, restaurants and duty-free shops, a chapel, business lounges and VIP services. Despite increases in volume, getting through check-in and security at Kraków Airport is still relatively speedy compared to most airports. GETTING TO/FROM THE AIRPORT: Typically the best way to get between the airport and Kraków’s Old Town is by train via the new ‘Kraków 12 Kraków In Your Pocket

Lotnisko/Airport’ station, which is connected directly to the terminal via a skywalk; however, current work on the rails is resulting in less frequent train service for the foreseeable future. At the moment trains are running once an hour between 04:00 and 24:00 (journey time 21min); a direct bus also makes the journey between ‘Kraków Lotnisko/Airport’ and ‘Kraków Główny’ (the main station in the Old Town) once an hour between train departures (journey time 35min). A ticket for either the train or direct bus between the airport and Kraków Główny costs 9zł, and can be bought directly on-board. Check malopolskiekoleje.pl for exact departure times. Note that Kraków Główny is actually the midway point in the train route between the airport and Wieliczka, making several other stops along the way. Those staying in Podgórze may in fact find the ‘Kraków Zabłocie’ stop more convenient for getting to their hotel. Also be aware that not all buses departing from the airport back to Kraków are direct. Bus 208 makes the same journey once an hour, while bus 252 runs between the airport and ‘Os. Podwawelskie’ every 30mins with central stops at Cracovia Błonia (G-6), Jubilat (G-7) and Centrum Congresowe ICE (H-9). Night bus 902 also makes the trip from the airport to the main station with hourly departures beginning at 23:25. These regular commuter buses all make stops, adding time to the trip, and require a 4/2zł single journey fare, which can be bought from the ticket machine at the bus-stop or on-board the bus. All leave from directly outside the terminal and exact bus times and routes can be checked online at krakow.jakdojade.pl.

Arrival & Transport AIRPORT TAXIS: The airport has its own ‘Krakow Airport Taxi’ service with vehicles waiting outside the terminal entrance. The idea is that this ‘trusted’ service offers a fixed price to the Old Town, but in reality they are just protecting its ridiculously high prices. If you go more than 15km the ‘fixed’ price jumps from 69zł to 89zł, so expect to pay 89zł unless your hotel is en route on the outskirts of the city centre. We advise confirming the fare for the 25-35min journey beforehand, and trying to split the cost with other travellers. Conversely, fares from the Old Town back to the airport range from only 35-70zł depending on time of day, and whether you call ahead or hail one in the street. Use our Taxi listings (p.15) and you should be able to negotiate a daytime fare as low as 40zł from the Old Town. That’s a huge difference.Qul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 295 58 00, www.krakowairport.pl. TALIXO This global transport service (operating in over 750 cities) connects you to the best local taxi and limousine fleets. Their simple online reservation system allows you to get a ride that matches your needs, whether it’s a child seat or just a super fly ride. Specialising in airport transfers, their system can track your flight, ensuring that your English-speaking driver will be there (looking snappy with a personalised sign), whether you land ahead of or behind schedule.Qtel. (+49) 30 346 49 73 60, www.talixo.com/iyp.

BY BUS KRAKÓW MAIN BUS STATION Although somewhat integrated into the Kraków Glówny underground transportation centre, Kraków retains its own semi-separate bus station, located directly east of Galeria Krakowska and the train platforms. Recently ‘modernised’ (codeword for ‘filled with commercial shopping space’), the station comprises two floors with access to two levels of bus departure gates. Inside the top floor of the bus station proper you’ll find ticket windows (open 07:00 - 19:45; tickets can also be bought downstairs at the -1 level 05:00 - 21:30), food vendors, currency exchange (kantor), ATM (bankomat) and information point (open 07:00 - 20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00). When the main hall is closed between 22:00 and 06:00, a separate night time waiting room is available with access to the toilets and left luggage lockers. Those arriving to Kraków by bus will find taxis nearby on both the upper and lower floors, as well connections to public transport nearby. Located within easy walking distance, unfortunately the most direct way to the market square is underground through the Kraków Główny train and transit centre; follow the clearly marked signs for ‘Stare Miasto’ (Old Town) or ‘ul. Lubicz.’ To plan bus departures from Kraków, use the helpful website e-podroznik.pl.QL‑4, ul. Bosacka 18, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 40, www.mda.malopolska.pl. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Transport BY TRAIN KRAKÓW GŁÓWNY TRAIN STATION Following a 130 million PLN modernisation project, Kraków Główny - the catch-all title of the city’s vast underground transportation centre - offers easy transfers between train, bus and tram transport. Of course the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall is also cleverly integrated, and along with modern conveniences like waiting rooms, escalators and elevators, you’ll also find plenty of additional consumer opportunities, including cafes, supermarkets, souvenir shops, bookstores and more. With tunnels, stairs and signs leading off in every direction, it’s all quite confusing (erm, we mean, modern!), but fear not - IYP will help you sort it out.

This Pendolino train can get you to Warsaw in 2.5hrs.

Photo by Jakub Hałun

SERVICES: Pretty much everything the modern traveller could ever expect or desire can be found somewhere inside the spiffy, sprawling, fully handicap-accessible facilities of the Kraków train station. 24 ticket windows (some open 24-hours), plus automated ticket machines (in English) throughout the station limit the possibility of long queues. The station is wifi-enabled, there are several waiting areas, a tourist information office (open 07:00 - 22:00), currency exchange, luggage lockers, showers, and dozens of food and refreshment opportunities, not to mention the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall. ARRIVING BY TRAIN: Conveniently situated at the north-east edge of the Old Town, Kraków Główny is within easy walking distance of most Old Town accommodation, making trams and taxis largely unnecessary. If you’re travelling further than you’d care to walk, use krakow.jakdojade.pl to navigate yourself there via public transport; you can catch trams to Kazimierz (number 19 in the direction of ‘Borek Fałęcki’ stops at ‘Miodowa’ (K-8) in Kazimierz, for example) and other parts of the city by following signs underground to ‘Dworzec Główny Tunel.’ Further tram stops are located just outside the station exits. To skip that trouble however, when you disembark your train immediately head up rather than down from the platform and you’ll find yourself on the top floor parking garage where taxis are waiting to whisk you away. 14 Kraków In Your Pocket

If you opt to walk - and we encourage you to do so, wandering into the Old Town is dreamy - you’ll find that getting out of the station can be a bit of a challenge. There are at least four exits and it’s wise to choose the correct one, based on where you want to go. Following signs to ‘ul. Pawia’ will lead you straight into the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall (in the words of Admiral Ackbar: “It’s a traaap!”). Signs to ‘Dworzec Autobusowy’ or ‘ul. Bosacka’ will put you on the east side of the transport complex (further from the market square). If you want to head straight to the market square (do it, it’s only 10mins away!) it is easier to take the stairs down from the platforms to the old ‘Magda’ tunnel, rather than the escalators into the new complex. Once in the tunnel there is a staircase just after platform 1 that will lead you to daylight. If you end up in the new main complex, follow the clearly marked signs to ‘Stare Miasto’ (Old Town) or ‘ul. Lubicz’ to escape. Once outside, cross the plaza in front of the old station building (Galeria Krakowska is on your right) to the Andels Hotel and follow the crowds through the underpass (K-4); bear right and enjoy a stroll through the Planty Park for two blocks before making a left on Floriańska Street at the Barbican (J-4) and you’re on the ‘Path of Kings’ to the market square. You’ve arrived. DEPARTING BY TRAIN: With the train station completely underground, there’s no clear-cut main entrance, but rather several ways to enter. Basically it is directly underneath the train platforms and bus station (L-4), so use those as your geographical targets and you’ll find your way; you can also cut through Galeria Krakowska to get there. Easily accessed by public transport, there are tram stops all around the train station: ‘Teatr Słowackiego’ (just south of the station, K-5), ‘Dworzec Główny Zachód’ (just west of the Galeria Krakowska and the station, K-4), ‘Dworzec Główny Tunel’ (basically inside the station, K-4, follow signs to the platforms) and ‘Dworzec Główny Wschód’ (just east of the bus station and main entrance to the station, L-3). All of these are perfectly good options, it just depends where you are coming from. Again, your best bet is to have krakow.jakdojade.pl plot your course to the train station from wherever you happen to be in town. Once you’re there, station departures (odjazdy) are listed on yellow timetables, arrivals (przyjazdy) are the white ones; check the timetables online at the Polish railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has limited but effective English language functionality, or try the journey-planning website e-podroznik.pl. If you want a seat on a particular train it is best to book ahead. If in a rush, tickets can also be bought on board the train from the conductor, but expect a surcharge.QK‑3, ul. Pawia 5A, tel. (+48) 22 391 97 57 (from foreign mobile phones), www.rozklad.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that, due to system maintenance, seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00.

Arrival & Transport CAR RENTAL

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

All most travellers need to rent a car in PL is 18 years of age, a credit card (not debit), and a valid foreign driver’s licence. Note, however, that those from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic (United States, China, Australia...) cannot legally drive on their home licences; an International Driver’s License is technically required. Though some companies will still rent you a car, you assume full liability for any damages if you get behind the wheel; you also run the risk of getting a citation from the police for driving without a valid license. If you’re looking to leave the country, be aware that you can’t cross the Polish borders into Ukraine, Belarus or Lithuania in a rental car.

AVIS Internationally trusted service offering a range of vehicles from two-door sedans to luxury mini-vans. Located near the train station, with a pick-up/drop-off point at the car park above the station. Also at the airport.QL‑4, ul. Lubicz 23, tel. (+48) 12 629 61 08, www.avis.pl. Open 08:00 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun. EUROPCAR Offering both short and long term rental options with 9 different categories of car available for your individual needs. Excellence in service with benefits tailored to your specific requirements. Europcar is present at all Polish airports including Kraków-Balice, tel. (+48) 12 257 79 00.QL‑9, ul. Nadwiślańska 6 (Qubus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374 56 96, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

TAXIS Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, taxi service in Kraków is very reliable and affordable. Calling ahead will get you a better fare, but if you hail one from the street just make sure it is clearly marked with a company name and phone number displayed. A standard fare is about 7zł, plus about 2.30zł per kilometre; at night and on Sundays, however, fares increase by up to 50%. Most Poles do not consider taxis a service that necessitates a tip, so if you’re in the company of Poles, the driver likely won’t expect one. Double standards being what they are, however, it’s anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you. Uber is also available in Poland, and those familiar with the service will find Kraków well-covered, however there are some drawbacks. Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for cheaper rates. BARBAKAN TAXIQtel. (+48) 12 196 61, www.taxi.barbakan.krakow.pl. ICARQtel. (+48) 12 653 55 55, www.icartaxi.eu.

Leonid Andronov, AdobeStock

While Krakow has no underground metro system it does have an integrated bus and tram system which runs from 05:00 - 23:00, with night trams and buses continuing less frequently after that. Check official timetables and network maps online at mpk.krakow.pl (which has English functionality), or figure out how to get from point A to point B via krakow.jakdojade.pl - an invaluable navigation site and transport app. Also note that while frequent changes in service prevent us from printing a tram map in our guides, tram stops are marked on all Krakow IYP maps. Transport tickets can be purchased from the handy ticket machines (also in English) at major stops, on-board most trams and buses, or from the driver immediately on boarding if there is no ticket machine. Note that the ticket machines at stops take bills and bank cards, but most of those on board trams and buses take coins only, so have some change handy. Tickets are the same for trams and buses, and are timed, allowing you to change between tram or bus lines within the alloted time. The cheapest fare is good for 20mins at a cost of 2.80zł. By our estimation, this is about the time it should take to go 5-8 stops, depending on traffic, and ideal for travel around the Old Town, Kazimierz and Podgórze. If you’re going outside the centre (Nowa Huta, for example), we recommend you purchase a 40min ticket for 3.80zł. 1-hour, 24-hour, 48-hour, 72-hour, and unlimited weekend family passes for 16.00zł are also options. Note that those over the age of 70 ride for free, as do kids until age 4 (ages must be proven with ID). ISIC and Euro‹26 Student cards are valid for transport ticket discounts, but you must carry your ID and be under 26. Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket immediately on boarding the tram or bus in the small machines on-board, even if you bought your ticket onboard. Beware that inspectors regularly travel on the lines handing out costly fines to those without valid tickets, and are notoriously unsympathetic towards tourists. Seriously, riding without a ticket can not only ruin your day, but your entire trip to Kraków. krakow.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

Opera “The Turk in Italy” | Photo: Ryszard Kornecki

EVENTS BY DATE 14.12, 16.12, 18.12 18:30 » TCHAIKOVSKY’S “EUGENE ONEGIN”

Not sure what to do for date night? Perhaps you could check out Tchaikovsky’s romantic opera based on Pushkin’s novel of the same name. The whole work is a “poetic, lyrical tale of lost illusions, of time which heals all wounds but also takes one ever farther away from the excitements of youth, strips all the characters in the story of their dreams and frustrates their desires.”QM‑4, Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 29, Tickets 28-120zł available at www.opera.krakow.pl or in Box office.

21.12 11:00, 22.12 17:30, 23.12 17:30, 27.01 17:30, 29.12 17:30, 30.01 11:00, 22.02 11:00, 23.02 17:30, 24.01 17:30 » THE NUTCRACKER

One of the world’s most popular classical ballets is a story of a girl taken by her Christmas toy on a journey through a fairyland of wonders where anything is possible... The fairytale novella “The Nutcracker and the Mouse King” was written in 1816 by the German poet and author E. T. A. Hoffmann. The ballet rendition of the story was conceived by the imagination of Marius Petipa, and Pyotr Tchaikovsky was commissioned to compose the music, following the success of The Sleeping Beauty. The premiere was held at St Petersburg’s Mariinsky Theatre in 1892.QM‑4, Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 29. 16 Kraków In Your Pocket

06.01 19:00 » CHRISTMAS CAROLS

Kasia Cerekwicka , Kuba Badach , Kasia Moś and Mietek Szcześniak will be part of a special Christmas Carols concert this holiday season. The performers will be accompanied by soloists, choirs, and instrumental ensembles to help bring the cheer. The repertoire will include songs from all over the world both traditional and modern remakes of classical Christmas carols. QM‑4, Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 29, Tickets 79-149zł available at eventim.pl, www.goodtaste.pl.

10.01, 11.01, 12.01, 13.01, 01.02, 02.02, 03.02 18:30 » THE BAT

Operetta gem and famous masterpiece by the one and only “Waltz King” Johann Strauss II has been performed thousands of times worldwide. With extravagant costumes and too many plot twists to count, The Bat is a must-see, presenting a scintillating look into the inner workings of the aristocratic elite and the upper-middle class. Note this rendition is performed in Polish, with German subtitles. QM‑4, Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 29, Tickets 15-300zł. Available at the box office and online., www.opera.krakow.pl.

31.01 - 17.02 » OPERA RARA

One of Kraków’s youngest festivals, Opera Rara began in 2009 as a presentation of operas from the 17th and 18th centuries, performed in their original spirit—on original instruments in their original interpretations. Since then, Opera Rara has

What’s On expanded into a full-blown, three-week programme that will stay true to its original concept while also finding room for contemporary operas and vocal recitals. Taking place during Kraków’s carnival season, the festival attempts to capture the festive party atmosphere of this time of year while injecting some high-culture into our everyday life.QTickets 10-80zł, pass tickets 30-60zł, www.operarara.pl.

08.02, 10.02 18:30 » THE TURK IN ITALY

This opera buffa in two acts by Gioachino Rossini is rarely seen on Polish stages - indeed, this is the first time it’ll be performed in Kraków. The work, a true comedy of errors, is a convoluted story involving a Turkish prince, his former lover, and a couple experiencing marital problems.QM‑4, Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 29, Tickets 15-300zł. Available at the box office and online., www.opera.krakow.pl.

10.02 19:00 » NOSOWSKA NA TŁUSTO I BASTA

Kasia Nosowska is the leader of the rock band Hey. A big deal in these parts, they have won lots of Fryderyks, the Polish Brit or Grammy if you like, including Best Female Singer, Best Songwriter and Best Alternative Album. The forty-something singer has also been awarded the Golden Cross of Merit for her contributions to music and culture. The concert will include new material from her upcoming album this fall. QD‑4, Klub Studio, ul. Budryka 4 (Krowodrza), tel. (+48) 12 617 45 45, Tickets 79-99zł available at eventim.pl, www.goodtaste.pl.

14.02 20:00 » BRODKA MTV UNPLUGGED

MTV Unplugged has been known to host some of the most iconic musical performances of recent decades. This phenomenon of disconnecting electric enhancements from the musicians’ instruments has allowed for the acoustic value of the music and the words of the songs to be the showcase of the performance. The events have moved on from just a television show to full-blown concerts around the world to the delight of many fans. Monika Brodka will be the artist in the spotlight with her recent worldwide success of the album “Clashes”. Her performance will include a 12 member band with musicians playing instruments as unique as a harmonium and a saw.QTickets 99-149zł available at www.eventim.pl, www.goodtaste.pl.

15.02, 17.02 18:30 » THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO

Although it has been over two hundred years since the premiere of “The Marriage of Figaro” which took place on 1 May 1786 in Vienna’s Burgtheater, the opera’s attractiveness has not faded away. It is the masterpiece of the opera theatre. The great libretto was written by Lorenzo da Ponte and based on a brilliant comedy by Pierre Beaumarchais which turned out to have prophetic inclinations over the coming French Revolution. The music was wonderfully light and sensuous. It mirrored the tensions of action, reflected the atmosphere and was full of humour. The libretto and the music make a unique whole. “The Marriage

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of Figaro” is an exciting comedy, full of unexpected turns of events. It is a story of erotic intrigue in which characters are perfectly portrayed. What is more, it was the first opera which included a critique of social relations.QM‑4, Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 29, Tickets 15300zł. Available at the box office and online., www. opera.krakow.pl.

15.02 - 23.02 » MATERIA PRIMA

Theatre groups from around the world will be gracing the stages in Krakow for the Materia Prima Festival. The following groups were invited to participate in the 5th edition of the Festival: Compagnia Finzi Pasca, Les ballets C de la B, Gecko, Théâtre du Corps Pietragalla-Derouault, Jakop Ahlbom, FC Bergman, WHS, National Dance Company Wales, Patricia Guerrero, Merlin Puppet Theater, Viktor Antonov, and the Sofie Krog Theater. The performances will combine traditional theatre with new circus and dance theatre, dance intertwined with multimedia, as well as various forms of puppet theatre, masks, and shadows.QTickets 50-100zł, www.materiaprima.pl.

21.02 - 24.02 » SHANTIES 2018: POLISH MARITIME FESTIVAL

City Essentials Only our favourite places Incl. Events, Maps Free, Works ofﬂine Incl. over 50 cities www.iyp.me/app

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

18 Kraków In Your Pocket

For 36 years running, Kraków has hosted this salty sea shanty festival with so much success that it has spawned an astounding twenty other shanty festivals across Poland. In addition, this festival has risen to become not only the most important celebration of maritime music in the country, but the largest in all of Europe—which is quite an accomplishment for a land-locked city in Central Europe. Attracting salt-creased sea dogs, selkies, and sirens from across the continent, the biggest stars of sea songs will be performing four days of concerts, plus a raft of workshops, photo exhibitions, and other accompanying events. Foreigners need fear not—while many of the performers are Polish, there are plenty of international acts as well; not to mention the strong inherent connection to the oral and musical traditions of Ireland and Scotland that are evident in the nautical scene. Concerts this year will be held at the Main Square, KS Studio, Radio Kraków Studio S5, (Al. J. Słowackiego 22, I-1), and Kijów. Centrum Cinema (Al. Krasińskiego 34, H-3).QTickets 18-80zł, www.shanties.pl.

EXHIBITIONS UNTIL 17.03.2019 » AKIRA INUMARU THE LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS

A new direction of art labelled ‚land art‘ is the use of natural elements as inspiration and material for pieces. The artist Akira Inumaru uses flowers and dyes obtained from plants and subjects them to the effects of the sun. His work is also an experiment of how the sun creates colour, destroys matter, while simultaneously feeding the plants. The exhibit is separated into three parts Iki-utsushi (Double) and Ignis fatuus ( Jack-o’-Lantern) using flowers and plants as the main medium, and the third titled L’arcen-ciel des plantes (Rainbow of Plants), consisting of work

What’s On from plants that are a natural source of dyes. The colours obtained from them resulting in the seven colours of the rainbow. The exhibition is part of a series of presentations by artists from the MOCAK Collection. After the Logical Emotion of 2015, it is also another exhibition showing the achievements of contemporary Japanese artists.QN‑9, Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK), ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 01, Admission 14/7zł, Tue free, www.mocak.pl.

UNTIL 17.03.2019 » MAC ADAMS CRIME?

The British transplant to New Jersey, Mac Adams, is known for his capturing the ambiguous and disturbing. His work consists of installations and photographs that create a perception that you are looking at a crime scene. The pieces are arranged in a way that tells the story of a supposed crime, from the tools that could be used as evidence, to the final scene used by the investigators to map out the series of events. The artist presents an interesting exhibition that does not explicitly explain the events but gives enough context to allow the viewer to come to their own conclusions.QN‑9, Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK), ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 01, Admission 14/7zł, Tue free. www.mocak.pl.

UNTIL 07.07.2019 » THINK OF AN ALIAS FOR YOURSELF…

In connection with the 100th anniversary of Poland regaining its independence, a temporary exhibit at Oskar Schindler‘s Factory Museum will be held. The exhibition tells the story of a portion of the young generation brought up during the Nazi occupation. One of its aims is to present the personal experience of the people involved in the underground resistance throughout World War II. The exhibition features written memoirs by seven young Polish people, in 1939 aged between 13 and 16, who lived in Kraków and served as soldiers of the Home Army during World War II. QN‑9, Schindler‘s Factory, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 17, Admission 4-7zł, family ticket 14zł, www.mhk.pl.

UNTIL 22.04.2019 » THINKING CITY. JAN ZAWIEJSKI’S ARCHITECTURE.

One of the first major museum exhibitions focussed on the work of one of Kraków‘s major architects takes place at the Hipolit House. Jan Zawiejski was responsible for much of the development of the city at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. During a time of rapid industrial modernisation and expansion, Zawiejski combined modernization with a great respect for the history of the city. The exhibition will also tell the story of the elites in the city as it related to the development of landmarks such as the Słowacki Theater. The concept behind the exhibition is a belief that architecture is like a text, in which the city’s story is recorded: the relations between the inhabitants, their collective identity, the economy, modernity, and power. QJ‑5, Hipolit House, Pl. Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 42 19, Admission 10/8zł, family ticket 20zł. Wed free. www.mhk.pl.

in Februar y Johann Strauss

THE BAT

1, 2, 3 February Gioacchino Rossini

THE TURK IN ITALY

8, 10 February Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart

THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO

15, 17 February www.opera.krakow.pl

krakow.inyourpocket.com

What’s On UNTIL 17.03.2019 » THE STUDIO OF ŁUKASZ SKĄPSKI

A graduate of the Academy of Fine Arts in Krakow, Łukasz Skąpski is now a Professor at the Academy of Art in Szczecin. This exhibition is a showcase of photographs, videos, and objects by students and graduates of the Skąpski Studio of Photography and Artistic Strategies. The exhibition is divided into three parts. The first contains works analysing the human face and methods of analyzing them. The second part consists of pieces that engage in political and social issues. The final part will examine the clash of commercial activities with high culture. The exhibition as a whole will display the result of Skąpski‘s educational techniques and the impact on the artistic quality of pieces presented. QN‑9, Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK), ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 01, Admission 14/7zł, Tue free, www.mocak.pl.

UNTIL 27.01.2019 » THE MASTER AND CATHERINE

Hans Suess von Kulmbach was one of the most outstanding artists working in Albrecht Dürer‘s circle – a renowned painter, printmaker, illuminator and stained glass window designer. The principal subject of this exhibition, the cycle of Saint Catherine of Alexandria designed between the years 1514–1515 for St. Mary’s Church which he created under the influence of both Italian and South German art. The master’s works preserved in Krakow are scattered, and rarely exhibited, and, thus, they have become all but forgotten. The exhibition‘s highlight is a drawing for the panel Martyrdom of Philosophers from the cycle of Catherine of Alexandria from the Louvre collection, and a precious Polonicum: The Martyrdom of St. Stanislaus – the projection of a panel in the shape of a tondo for a stained glass window from the Kunsthalle in Bremen. This is the first, and possibly unique, opportunity to admire these works of art in Poland.QI‑7, Bishop Erazm Ciołek Palace, ul. Kanonicza 17, tel. (+48) 12 433 59 20, Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free., www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 26.05.2019 » SAND HAS COVERED THE TRACES...

A collection of numismatic coins and archaeological remains collected by the soldiers of the Polish II Corps and priest Stefana Pietruszka-Jabłonowski which were kept in the Polish Museum in Jerusalem until 2016. They have since been transferred to the National Museum in Krakow where they will be put on display for visitors. The collection includes over 12,000 coins with some dating back to the Middle Ages, the Ottoman Empire, and also includes modern examples. Archaeological artefacts will also include weights, oil lamps, glass beads, semi-precious metals, and clay pieces.QH‑6, Józef Czapski Pavilion, ul. Piłsudskiego 12, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 40, Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sunday free for permanent exhibitions., www.mnk. pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. 20 Kraków In Your Pocket

What’s On UNTIL 03.02.2019 » POP-ART AFTER THE HOLOCAUST

Boris Lurie is a Jewish American born in St. Petersburg. Spending his childhood in Riga he was a victim of the Nazi regimes forced migration of Jews from the area. His grandmother, mother, and sister were executed in the forests outside the city, while he and his father were transported to the concentration camps of both Stutthof and Buchenwald. After being liberated by American soldiers, they both moved to the United States where he lived the rest of his life in New York. A visual artist, his work would usually centre on political, social, and antipop art themes. Resulting from the effects of the mental tragedy of the holocaust he experienced as a teenager his art became a kind of therapy for the traumas he had lived through. Dominating most of his work had a connection to these horrible images that were stuck in his head. Motifs appearing in his works are concentration camp photos, the Star of David, photographs of pin-up girls, and the word „no“. QN‑9, Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK), ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 01, Admission 14/7zł, Tue free, www.mocak.pl.

THE LIBRARY

OF THE INTERNATIONAL CULTURAL CENTRE AND THE ROLAND BERGER READING ROOM Kraków, Rynek Główny 25 tel.: +48 12 42 42 833, 835 biblioteka@mck.krakow.pl katalog.mck.kzb.krakow.pl

→ www.mck.krakow.pl

UNTIL 31.12.2019 » POLONIA W BUDOWIE

Linking the year of Wyspiański (2017) and the year of Independence (2018), a special project will be finished by Piotr Ostrowski from July to the end of 2019. The stained glass project originally designed by Stanisław Wyspiański during the years of 1894-1904 at the request of the Lviv Cathedral, it was never fully realised by the originator. The artistic director of the studio will now take on the special task of finishing this long lost project for the public. QG‑6, Stained Glass Museum, Al. Krasińskiego 23, tel. (+48) 512 93 79 79, Guided tours 35/29zł per person in English; 28/23zł in Polish., www.stainedglass.pl. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

UNTIL 30.12.2018 » POLAND. PIOTR UKLAŃSKI

Known around Poland for his works focussed on Solidarity, John Paul II, and Polesploitation, this exhibition at the National Museum will centre on Polish myths and landscapes. The artist says in his own words that his exhibition takes inspiration from the current political change in Poland and how that shapes the public discourse of national identity and historical truth. The exhibition will include religious symbolism, national iconography, and mythologies that play a major role in this country‘s current cultural crossroads.QG‑6, National Museum, Main Building, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 -18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 24.03.2019 » MUNTEAN/ROSENBLUM WALKING WOUNDED

The artistic duo of Markus Muntean and Adi Rosenblum are primarily known for their work of group scenes accompanied by quotes from literature. Their paintings are usually of young people reproduced from photographic krakow.inyourpocket.com

What’s On materials from the artists’ archives, magazines, and the internet. Their facial expressions and body language usually reveal their helplessness, loneliness and emotional fragility. Recent projects have taken imagery from popular YouTube videos that have fairly banal subject matter such as dentist appointments. In these works the artists focus on quotations from poems by Rilke, Eliot, Celan, and Bowles, bringing together images representing popular culture with sophisticated poetry. QN‑9, Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK), ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 01, Admission 14/7zł, Tue free, www.mocak.pl.

UNTIL 31.12.2018 » BEAUTIFUL & FREE: WOMEN & POLISH INDEPENDENCE

As 2018 marks 100 years of Poland‘s independence, it‘s bound to be a year full of related exhibitions and events exploring politically-themed tangents. This exhibition is one such example, and it focuses particularly on the angle of female political involvement leading to Poland acquiring independence in 1918. While the exhibit is focused on the struggles towards sovereignty during the WWI years of 1914–1918, you‘ll also see some elements of the inter-war period leading into WWII. The exhibit will explore key female figures and their pertinent struggles, among them the everlasting fight for borders, as well as their social, political, and artistic contributions.QK‑2, Home Army Museum, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 12 410 07 70, Admission 13/7zł. Sun free for permanent exhibit. www.muzeum-ak.pl.

UNTIL 24.12.2018 » MINIMALISM WŁADYSŁAW PLUTA. POSTER EXHIBITION

Dydo Poster Gallery will host an exhibition of posters that cover the most by using the least. Minimalism in posters can convey strong messages without the clutter of various images to draw the eye away from the main point. The exhibition will showcase the work of Władysław Pluta using the method of less is more. QG‑6, Dydo Poster Gallery, ul. Focha 1 (Hotel Cracovia), tel. (+48) 790 79 22 44, Admission free. Open 14:30 - 18:30.

UNTIL 20.01.2019 » WYSPIAŃSKI

2017 marks the 110th anniversary of internationallyacclaimed artist Stanisław Wyspiański‘s death (1869– 1907). If you don‘t know, now you know: Wyspiański ranks among artists like Klimt and Gaudi in terms of mass-significance and influence cascading from the turn of the 19th century, especially locally. In an impressive feat, the National Museum in Kraków has aggregated the largest and most valuable collection of the artist‘s works - approximately 900 pieces. As part of the largest display of the artist‘s works over the past 50 years in Poland, 500 of these works will be available for viewing - drawings, portraits, and landscapes, as well as scenographic, typographic, and ornamental designs (some of which were made for high-profile clients in Krakow). Of course, there will be plenty of pastels - a medium he was best known for artfully mastering.QG‑6, National Museum, Main Building, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, Tickets 20/15zł, www.mnk.pl. 22 Kraków In Your Pocket

What’s On UNTIL 02.06.2019 » KRAKOW 1900

Focussing on the atmosphere of Kraków around 1900, the exhibition will show the life of inhabitants, their work, views, and how art reflected the European trends of the time. Made up of paintings and sculptures from the National Museum of Kraków, it also includes posters, graphics, ceramics, clothing and textiles, everyday objects, and archival photographs.QI‑5, Szołayski House, Pl. Szczepański 9, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 50, Tickets 20/15zł, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 24.03.2019 » KARL MARX VS MOBY DICK: AN ANALYSIS OF FORM & DEMOLITION OF IDEAS

In the work collected in this exhibit, sculptor Krzysztof M. Bednarski (‚KMB‘) uses the recurring motifs of Moby Dick (the great white whale) and Karl Marx (the socialist revolutionary) as artistic fodder for an esoteric discussion of how multiple meanings can be imposed on objects we perceive to already have prescribed symbolic roles. Or it might just be a bunch of bald busts, boats and blowholes. You decide?QN‑9, Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK), ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 01, Admission 14/7zł, Tue free, www.mocak.pl.

UNTIL 27.01.2019 » INDEPENDENCE

In connection with the 100th anniversary of Poland regaining independence an exhibit of paintings, sculptures, and prints will be on display. Artists such as Jacek Malczewski, Witold Pruszkowski, Juliusz and Wojciech Kossakowie, and Artur Grottger will be displayed. In addition to the artwork, there will also be a collection of uniforms, maps, weapons, decorations, photographs and medals totalling around 750 objects for the entire exhibit focussed on the Polish struggle to regain its freedom. QG‑6, National Museum, Main Building, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, Admission for all permanent exhibits 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free., www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 17.05.2019 » LEONARDO DA VINCI‘S „LADY WITH AN ERMINE“

If you‘re looking for a reason to see this painting in real life, here‘s a good one: there are only four known and surviving female portraits painted by the great Leonardo da Vinci, and Lady with an Ermine is one of them. To top it off, outside of Italy and France, there are only a few select countries displaying da Vinci‘s artworks. So, why not check out the Lady with an Ermine and see for yourself whether she gives Mona Lisa a run for her money? Look at the painting closely, and maybe you‘ll be able to spot the parts that have been painted over or „touched up“ over the years (hint: pay special attention to the veil over her hair, the detail and shading in her hands, and of course, the sombre black background).QG‑6, National Museum, Main Building, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, Admission 8/10zł, family ticket 17zł, www. mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

WEEKLY CONCERTS Pro-Arts organises a diverse variety of intimate concerts performed by distinguished local musicians in unique venues. Tickets available online, or at the venue before the show. cracowconcerts.com

ROYAL CHAMBER ORCHESTRA » EVERY DAY; 18:00

This ensemble of grads from the Kraków Academy of Music performs outstanding classical music recitals. QI‑6, St. Adalbert’s Church, Rynek Główny; 65zł.

CHOPIN CONCERTS » EVERY DAY; 19:00

Enjoy the music of Poland’s greatest composer; price includes a glass of wine.QChopin Gallery, ul. Sławkowska 14; 60zł.

FOLK SHOW » WED, SAT; 19:00

A traditional three-course meal with folk music and dancing in Kraków’s famous secessionist cafe.QJ‑5, Jama Michalika, ul. Floriańska 45; 119zł.

KLEZMER CONCERTS » THU, SAT; 19:00

Traditional klezmer recitals performed by a local trio on clarinet, accordion and double bass. QKlezmer Music Venue, ul. Sławkowska 14; 50zł. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Podgórze’s Liban Quarry (p.56) with St. Joseph’s Church (p.52) and Wawel (p.38) in the background. | © Przemek Czaja, madeinkrakow.pl

Kraków Sightseeing Not only the pride of Poland, but also Europe’s first World Heritage Site, go out and discover the magic of Kraków - district by district.

Sightseeing Kraków has always been, in many respects, a charmed city. With a history that dates back to the 4th century settlement of Wawel Hill, Kraków has fortuitously avoided destruction since the pesky Mongols stopped bullying the area in the 13th century, growing into one of the most prominent cities in Central Europe. The most important city in Poland not to come out of World War II looking like a trampled Lego set, even the Soviets failed to leave their mark on the enchanted city centre during 45 years of supervision, forced to erect their grey communist Utopia in the outlying suburb of Nowa Huta. As a result, Kraków is today one of the most beautiful showpieces of Central Europe - a claim validated by its historic centre’s inclusion on the first ever UNESCO World Heritage List in 1978, along with the nearby Wieliczka Salt Mine and only ten other places in the world. A city of majestic architectural monuments, cobbled thoroughfares, cultural treasures, timeless courtyards, priceless artworks and legendary beer cellars and gardens, Kraków’s historic centre is the pride of Poland.

WHAT TO SEE Kraków’s centre can be divided into two main sections - the Old Town (p.28) and Kazimierz (the former Jewish Quarter, p.42), with Wawel (the former Royal Castle, p.38) towering between them. These three areas are requisite for anyone visiting the city and have been given their own separate treatment with accompanying cultural listings within this guide. Though one could spend their life wandering in and out of the cobbled streets, courtyards, cafes, clubs and museums of the Old Town and Kazimierz (we’ve attempted to make a life out of it), don’t hesitate to take a trip across the river into Podgórze (p.50) - arguably the city’s most evocative and mysterious district; the Jewish heritage trail also naturally leads you from Kazimierz into Podgórze, where the worst horror of Kraków’s Nazi occupation played out and Schindler made a name for himself. Within these pages you’ll also find a section devoted to Nowa Huta (p.58), one of only two planned socialist realist cities ever built. Designed to be the antithesis of everything Kraków’s Old Town represents, both culturally and aesthetically, the commie comforts of Nowa Huta are only a tram ride away. Those staying in the area for a week or more should strongly consider day trips to Wieliczka (p.72), Auschwitz-Birkenau (p.76) and Tarnów (p.78), information about all of which you’ll find in our Further Afield section. However long your stay, the meticulously updated information in this guide will help you make the most of it. Enjoy exploring Kraków and Małopolska.

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KRAKÓW IYP ONLINE Due to space restrictions in our print guide, we’re actually only able to publish a fraction of all the excellent content we have on Kraków and the surrounding region, not to mention all of Poland. Visit our website - poland.inyourpocket.com - to see just how much of the country we cover, and to download guides to Warsaw, Gdańsk, Wrocław, Katowice and other cities you might be travelling to. Below is a small sampling of great Kraków-related content we didn’t have room for this issue, with links to where you’ll find it online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket! KRAKÓW WITH THE KIDS Kids. They get tired, they get bored, cranky, whiny, naggy, damn-near impossible to please or control. We know. Though we won’t argue that the main things Kraków has to offer your little ones are pigeon-chasing and ice cream, we’ve managed to compile a decent list of family-oriented alternatives anyway: iyp.me/krakowkids LITERARY KRAKÓW In October 2013 Kraków was designated a ‘UNESCO City of Literature.’ The city’s resume includes the first bookstore in Europe, and Nobel Prize winners for Literature - Czesław Miłosz and Wisława Szymborska. Our guide to Literary Kraków introduces you to the city’s most famous authors and best literary locales: iyp.me/literarykrakow TADEUSZ KOŚCIUSZKO 2017 is being celebrated in PL as the ‘Year of Kościuszko,’ in commemoration of the 200th anniversary of the patriot’s death. You’ve seen his name and likeness all around town, but who was this handsome, name-challenged gentleman? Only the greatest Pole ever. Read our scholarly feature to learn all about this hero of America and Poland: iyp.me/kosciuszko POPE JOHN PAUL II Born in nearby Wadowice, Karol Wojtyła studied at Jagiellonian and served as Kraków’s Bishop before becoming Pope in 1978. Aside from the Vatican, no city is more associated with the late pope than Kraków, which remained his spiritual home throughout his life. IYP takes a look at the life, legacy and local sites associated with ‘Poland’s Pope:’ iyp.me/thepope krakow.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing TOURIST INFORMATION CRACOW CITY TOURS Also at Pl. Matejki 2 (J-4, open 08:00 - 16:00).QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 44, tel. (+48) 12 421 13 27, www. cracowcitytours.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. INFOKRAKÓW The official tourist info office run by the city of Kraków, with four other locations around the Old Town: ul. Św. Jana 2 (I-5), ul. Szpitalna 25 (J-5), ul. Powiśle 11 (I-7) and Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2 (Wyspiański Pavilion, I-6).QI‑5, Rynek Główny 1/3 (Cloth Hall), tel. (+48) 12 354 27 16, www.infokrakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00.

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JORDAN TOURIST INFORMATION & ACCOMMODATION CENTRE Also at ul. Długa 9 (J-4), ul. Gęsia 8 and ul. Gęsia 22A (Galaxy Hotel, M-8).QK‑4, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 60 91, www.jordan.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. SEEKRAKOW Also in the train station (K-4, open 08:00 - 20:30), ul. Floriańska 53 (J-5, open 09:00 - 20:00), and ul. Grodzka 18 (I-6, open 09:00 - 20:00).QI‑6, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2, tel. (+48) 12 429 44 99, www.seekrakow.com. Open 09:00 - 20:30.

TOURIST CARD

The enterprising tourist should consider picking up the Kraków Tourist Card, a superb piece of plastic that allows you free entry to over 40 Kraków museums (that’s basically all of them, except Wawel), and free travel on trams and buses, day and night - including to and from the airport and Wieliczka Salt Mine. An impressive savings, two and three day cards are available, priced at 100zł and 120zł, respectively. Another option is the ‘Museum & Attractions Pass’ - essentially the same card without free transport, valid for three days, and priced at 70/60zł. Every venue listed in our guide which accepts the Kraków Tourist Card has been marked with a Tourist Card Y symbol. Available at most tourist information offices, for a full list of vendors and benefits visit www.krakowcard.com.

Sightseeing GUIDED TOURS

WOW KRAKOW!

If IYP’s authoritative print guide, exhaustive web portal and handy mobile app (iyp.me/app) just aren’t enough and you need someone to literally take you by the hand (hey, we kid) there are plenty of tour companies to choose from in Kraków and we list the best of them here. DISCOVERCRACOW.EU This helpful tourist office offers walking and electric car tours of Kraków, as well as airport transfers and excursions to Wieliczka and other area attractions. Also a currency exchange and sales point for the Kraków Tourist Card and museum tickets. Also at Pl. Wolnica 13 (K-9, open 06:00 - 19:00).QI‑5, Plac Szczepański 8, tel. (+48) 12 346 38 99, www.discovercracow.eu. Open 06:00 20:00. WY COOL TOUR COMPANY This outfit located just off the market square offers bike rental, bike tours, segway tours and a range of thematic walking tours with entertaining and professional guides. With the exception of segways, no reservations are necessary - even in winter 4hr bike tours in English leave from their office daily at 12:00 (90/80zł), while walking tours leave daily from St. Adalbert’s (the tiny church on the market square) at 10:00 and 14:00 (80/70zł).QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 2, tel. (+48) 12 430 20 34, www.krakowbiketour. com. Open 09:30 - 19:00.

See it all, and at your own pace, by hopping on and off this iconic red bus, getting a guided tour of the town as it zips between 15 essential sites. The bus runs from about 09:30 till 19:45 (hours subject to change in Nov), appearing at each stop every 45mins (exact schedule online), and includes a trip down the river via gondola, plus free entry to Lipowa 3 Glass & Ceramics Centre (p.54) and Galicia Jewish Museum (p.48); tickets available online, or from the driver at any stop (cash only). There’s also a 3hr Tour & Taste offer which shows you the main sites illuminated at night, including a trip to Krakus Mound for panoramic views, a wine and cheese tasting and souvenir Polaroid (tickets from 119zł, available online).QK‑4, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 601 50 21 29, www.wowkrakow.pl. 24hr tickets 60/40zł, 48hrs 90/70zł; 40/30zł for the 1hr 40min tour without getting on and off the bus; kids under 12 free.

CARRIAGE RIDES

Lined up along the market square, horse-drawn carriage rides are a popular, albeit for some controversial, way to tour the Old Town. Available every day, rain or shine, from about 10:00 - 22:00, routes and prices are individually determined with the driver. The most popular route from the market square to Wawel Hill is generally 200zł (about 30mins); you can expect to pay about 500zł if you carry on to Kazimierz. Most carriages fit 4-5 people and the number in your party has no bearing on the price. Unfortunately the drivers don’t disseminate any information about what you’re seeing along the way (see, you might need this guidebook after all). Still, it’s many a lady’s dream to be lifted into one of these things, so be prepared. QI‑5, Rynek Główny, tel. (+48) 535 50 20 10, www.krakowskiedorozki.pl. krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Old Town Walking Tour Full of majestic architectural monuments, priceless cultural treasures and cobbled pedestrian thoroughfares, Kraków’s Old Town is the pride of Poland, one of Central Europe’s most beautiful architectural showpieces, and one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations. The most important Polish city to not come out of World War II looking like a trampled Lego set, the rich cultural and historical value of Kraków’s Old Town earned it well-deserved inclusion on the first-ever UNESCO World Heritage List back in 1978. Characterised by its unique upside-down teardrop shape - dictated by the city’s former medieval defensive walls extending from Wawel Castle to the south - today the Old Town is surrounded by the charming belt of public green space known as the ‘Planty.’ Standing in place of the city’s medieval moat, the Planty draws a clear line around the original medieval centre of Kraków, within which you’ll find many of the city’s most spectacular sights. IYP’s Old Town tourist route leads you from the main entrance of the city in the north - the historic Floriańska Gate (J-4) - to Wawel Royal Castle in the south (I-7), via the market square and most important and interesting points in the Old Town. Known as the ‘Royal Route,’ this was essentially the historical coronation path of Poland’s kings from the 14th century to the very end of the 16th century when Kraków served as the royal capital...with a couple key detours, of course. The prescribed route (shown in blue on the map) covers about 2km and could take as little as 30mins to cover if you’re only interested in the exercise; but we reckon for most an exploration of Kraków’s Old Town will take the several hours ‘if done correctly’ - that is, with a couple short culture, food and coffee/beer breaks. If you have only one day in Kraków, this is how you should spend it. Make sure you’ve got a full charge on your camera, some comfy shoes and off you go. 1 BARBICAN Originally there were eight entrance gates into the city, but let’s begin just outside the most grand of those entrances, and unfortunately the only to have survived to modern times - the Floriańska Gate, fortified by the impressive Barbican fortress. Standing in the small square between the Barbican and the tower of Floriańska Gate you are actually standing on what once was the drawbridge (when lowered) over the city’s moat. Built at the end of the 15th century, the Barbican was the showpiece of the city’s medieval defences, as it remains today. With walls 3 metres thick this masterpiece of medieval military engineering proved impenetrable and is today one of the only surviving structures of its kind in Europe. Built in Gothic style, the Kraków Barbican is topped by seven turrets and includes 130 defensive slots used by archers and riflemen. Today the Barbican is used for various special events (medieval pageants, jousting contests) and can be visited as an outdoor museum from April until the end of October, where you’ll learn the history of Kraków’s defensive walls.QJ‑4, ul. Basztowa, www.mhk.pl. Closed until April.

Barbican

2 JAN MATEJKO MONUMENT Located just beside the Barbican and unveiled as recently as 2013, this monument pays homage to one of Poland’s greatest painters, and one of Kraków’s most beloved sons. Famous for his epic and outsized historical paintings, which have been reproduced enough to become imprinted within the national psyche, Matejko’s work can be seen throughout Kraków from Collegium Novum (p.35) to the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.62) in the Cloth Hall, to the monumental polychrome he did inside St. Mary’s Basilica (p.31) in his final years. Educated in Kraków and later principal of the Academy of Fine Arts, Matejko also trained an entire generation of great Polish painters, including Wyspiański, Mehoffer and Malczewski. This impressive monument, which depicts the artist seated within a large picture-frame, is the work of Jan Tutaj, and located along what was Matejko’s daily walk from his home to the Fine Arts Academy which now bears his name on nearby Plac Matejki (also named in his honour) just north of the Barbican. To learn more about Matejko, visit his home and museum at ul. Floriańska 41 (p.66).QJ‑4, ul. Basztowa.

Jan Matejko Monument

krakow.inyourpocket.com

Old Town Walking Tour SŁOWACKI THEATRE

4 SŁOWACKI THEATRE

Regarded today as an architectural masterpiece, the Słowacki Theatre came under fierce criticism when construction began, due to the demolition of the medieval Church of the Holy Ghost to make room for it. Completed in 1893, Jan Zawiejski actually modeled his Baroque design on the Paris Opera and the structure is distinguished for its elaborate facade decorated with allegorical figures. The foyer and marble staircase are supreme examples of fin-de-siecle thinking, and the lavish stage curtain featuring paintings by Henryk Siemiradzki is worth seeing. Typically open during productions only, tours can be arranged by phone (150zł for up to 50 people).QJ‑5, Pl. Św. Ducha 1, tel. (+48) 12 424 45 25, www.slowacki.krakow.pl.

3 FLORIAŃSKA GATE Across from the Barbican - to which it was once connected via drawbridge over the city moat - stands the iconic Floriańska Gate. Erected in 1307, this Gothic gateway tower and its adjacent towers (plus the Barbican) are almost all that remains of the city’s ancient defences which once circled the medieval Old Town. As the most important of the city’s eight medieval gates, St. Florian’s Gate was spared demolition during 19th century Austrian occupation thanks to last-minute local efforts. As in ancient times when the gate marked the entry point for royal processions into the city en route to Wawel Castle - today Floriańska Gate remains the primary entry point to Kraków’s Old Town, leading tourists from the direction of the train station, onto one of the city’s main commercial thoroughfares (ulica Floriańska), in the direction of the market square.

GRUNWALD MONUMENT The Battle of Grunwald, fought between the joint armies of Poland and Lithuania against the German-Prussian Teutonic Knights on July 15, 1410, was one of the largest battles of Medieval Europe, and is considered one of the most important military victories in Polish history. This weighty monument was unveiled in front of an estimated 160,000 people on the 500th anniversary of the event in 1910. Unsurprisingly, Antoni Wiwulski’s original masterpiece was destroyed by the occupying Nazis during WWII and the copy you see today was made from his original sketches and models in 1976. At the top on his horse is Polish King Władysław Jagiełło, his sword pointing downwards in his right hand. At the front is his cousin the Lithuanian prince Vytautas (Vitold), who is flanked on either side by victorious soldiers from the joint army. The dead man at the front is Urlich von Jungingen, the Teutonic Order’s Grand Master, who lost his life during the battle.QJ‑4, Pl. Matejki. 30 Kraków In Your Pocket

Standing 34.5 metres tall, including the Baroque ‘helmet’ added in the 17th century, Floriańska Gate features a stone eagle on the side facing the Barbican, and a 19th century bas-relief of Saint Florian on the side facing Floriańska Street. There is an altar in the actual passageway, and a hidden chapel in the tower itself. Street musicians commonly play beneath the tower, and ranks of paintings by local artists are sold in the open along ul. Pijarska on the ul. Floriańska side of the gate. Upon passing through the gate it’s worth taking a quick detour to your left along the original defensive wall/ul. Pijarska to get a look at the Baroque majesty of the 4 Słowacki Theatre (p.30), if you’ve yet to lay eyes on it; July and August are the only months of the year when English-language tours are readily available, so seize the occasion if you can. As the city’s principal commercial street, ulica Floriańska comes steeped in history, with many of the townhouse facades featuring age-old murals and inscriptions among the signs for kebabs, dance clubs and currency exchange. Places of note along ul. Floriańska include the Jan Matejko House (no. 41, p.66), the Pharmacy Museum (no. 25, p.70), and the historical Jama Michalika Cafe (no.45, p.32) - famous for its role as the clubhouse for Kraków’s Art Nouveau movement.QJ‑4, ul. Floriańska.

Old Town Walking Tour 5 MAIN MARKET SQUARE Ulica Floriańska deposits you directly onto Kraków’s main market square (‘Rynek Główny’) in front of the iconic St. Mary’s Basilica: You are now standing in the very heart of the city with your finger on its pulse. Originally designed in 1257 - the year Kraków was awarded its charter – the grid-like layout of the Old Town and its central square have changed little in the centuries since. Measuring 200 metres square, the Rynek ranks as one of the largest medieval squares in Europe, and is surrounded by elegant townhouses, all with their own unique names and histories. Lined with cafes and restaurants, and filled with people, pigeons, street performers, musicians and horse-drawn carriages, this is the city’s social gravitational point, and a place of festivals, concerts, parades and other happenings. In fact, the Rynek has always been the city’s natural assembly point for public celebrations, parades, protests and even executions; it was here that homage to the King was sworn until 1596, here that Tadeusz Kościuszko famously inspired the locals to revolt against foreign rule in 1794, and here also that ‘Der Führer’ himself raucously announced the name change to ‘Adolf Hitler Platz’ during Nazi occupation. Fortunately the moniker didn’t last long and today the Rynek is again the biggest stage for Polish culture in the world, and absolutely packed with historical monuments and sights.QI‑5. 6 ST. MARY’S BASILICA First up is St. Mary’s Basilica - or Mariacka Cathedral - one of the most dazzling cathedrals in the country. After Tartar raids in the 13th century left the original church in ruins, St. Mary’s was rebuilt in Gothic style on its existing foundations and consecrated in 1320. In the early 15th century the towers took the iconic form they have today, when the northern tower was raised to 80m high and made into a watchtower for the city. It is from here that the hejnał mariacki - the city’s famous bugle call (p.31) - is played every hour on the hour; don’t miss it. Inside the altar, stained glass windows, and blue, starfilled ceiling of St. Mary’s will take your breath away. The magnificent wooden altarpiece was the principal work of 15th century German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit Stwosz) for twelve painstaking years, and depicts the Virgin Mary’s Quietus among the apostles; note, however, that gradual conservation work on the altar is

THE HEJNAŁ

photo by Przemek Czaja; fb.com/MadeinKrakow

One of the most captivating Cracovian traditions is the hejnał (pronounced “hey-now”) – a short, melodious bugle call played every hour, on the hour, in the four cardinal directions from the left tower of St. Mary Basilica. For centuries it has been the job of local firemen to climb the 239 steps to the top of the tower, ring the church bell and perform the hejnał precisely on the hour. A source of pride and family heritage for the few men chosen to do it, the job requires not only great discipline, but also bravery as local legend would have it. The first written mention of the song dates all the way back to 1392, and though its exact origins are unclear, it was apparently used as a warning of fires or invasions. As the story goes, in 1241, as Tartar invaders crept near the city gates for a nefarious nocturnal attack, a night watchman saw them coming and played the signal from atop the defensive walls to arouse the slumbering city to arms. As he did so, an arrow pierced him through the throat, abruptly suspending the song in mid-melody. To this day, the tune likewise cuts off in mid-report to symbolise the city’s vigilance, and commemorate the lone guardsman who woke the city and thereby saved it. It’s a nice story, and since trumpet calls were used commonly across Europe during medieval times to open and close the city gates, its entirely conceivable that the legend is true. However, some have claimed that the story of the arrow-stricken trumpeter is a complete fiction made up in the 20th century. Polish journalist Leszek Mazan even went so far as to suggest that an American fabricated the whole ‘legend’ in 1929 (blasphemy!). Whatever its origin, any visitor or Cracovian will surely attest that the hejnał’s living tradition defines and shapes Kraków. In addition to pleasing visitors able to witness the bugle call live from the church tower every hour, the tune can also be heard all over Poland when it is broadcast live over the radio every day at noon. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Old Town Walking Tour ART CAFÉS

JAMA MICHALIKA Established in 1895, it was in this grand venue that Młoda Polska - Poland’s Art Nouveau movement - was founded, with many of the leading artists of the day taking their libations here, and then tacking their art on the walls. Much of it is still here, as well as fin-de-siecle furnishings, stained glass, an anachronous cloakroom and smoking section. In addition to beer, coffee and sweets, there’s also a full menu of Polish food, and even regular folk dancing concerts Wed & Sat at 19:00. Although the abundance of tourist groups and the poker-faced nature of the staff limits the appeal of return visits, stopping in at this legendary venue is still essential.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 45, tel. (+48) 12 422 15 61, www.jamamichalika.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. XUE6W NOWOROLSKI This local classic inside the Cloth Hall has seen the city’s highs and lows since opening in 1910. Famous as Comrade Lenin’s preferred hangout during his visits, WWII occupation saw Noworolski become the top haunt of Nazi nabobs, before being commandeered by the communist authorities during the PRL era. Things have changed little here, making Noworolski a creaky throwback favoured today by well-dressed locals in the autumn of their years, but live piano concerts and the exquisite art nouveau interiors by Józef Mehoffer make it well worth a look. You can find cheaper and better coffee, but it won’t be served against such an atmospheric backdrop.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 515 10 09 98, www.noworolski. com.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. BEW

currently underway (projected to last until 2020), and not all elements may be on display during your visit. Surrounding the altar are polychrome paintings by Polish masters Matejko, Mehoffer and Wyspiański done in the late 19th century. The church is available for worship without paying an entry fee via the main entrance. Tourists are asked to use a side entrance, however, and not visit during services; we list the tourist visiting hours below. Tickets (10/8/5zł; kids under 8 free) are purchased in a separate building across from the tourist entrance. The Mariacki Tower (from which the hejnał is played) is also open to tourists; a separate ticket is required (15/10zł; no admission for kids under 7; kids 7-12 must be accompanied by an adult).QJ‑5, Pl. Mariacki 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 07 37, www.mariacki.com. Church open 11:30 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Mariacki Tower open 09:10 - 11:30, 13:10 - 17:30 Thu-Sat only; closed in January & February. Y

The Adam Mickiewicz Monument and St. Mary’s Basilica 7 ADAM MICKIEWICZ MONUMENT Between the market square’s two crowning glories - St. Mary’s and the Cloth Hall - lies this elaborate monument to Poland’s most eminent scribe, Adam Mickiewicz (1798-1855). One of the most important statues in Poland, the large likeness of the romantic poet and national hero was originally unveiled in 1898 to celebrate the centenary of the great man’s birth, and, like so many other symbols of national pride was destroyed by the occupying Germans during WWII. The statue that stands in the Rynek today is a 1955 copy of Teodor Rygier’s original, and is a popular and easily recognisable meeting place. Ironically, Lithuanian-born Mickiewicz (whose most famous work, Pan Tadeusz begins with the words ‘Lithuania, my country!’) never visited Kraków until 35 years after his death, when his body was laid to rest in the Royal Crypts just down the road at Wawel.QI‑5, Rynek Główny. 8 ST. ADALBERT’S CHURCH Kraków’s oldest church sits not unlike a lost orphan at the southeast corner of the market square - a mad mix of preRoman, Roman, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture. The earliest parts of the building date to the 11th century, predating the Rynek and thus explaining its strange placement, as well as why the floor sits some two metres below it. Unfortunately the church is closed to visitors until May 2019.QI‑6, Rynek Główny, tel. (+48) 12 422 83 52, www. wojciechnarynku.pl. Y

32 Kraków In Your Pocket

Old Town Walking Tour 9 CLOTH HALL (SUKIENNICE) The iconic showpiece at the centre of the market square, Kraków’s Cloth Hall is essentially one of the world’s oldest shopping malls, and its origins and development can be traced as those of the city itself. Proof of a structure at this site dates back to the mid-13th century; when King Kazimierz the Great approved construction of a purposebuilt trading hall in the mid-14th century, Kraków’s importance as an east-west trading post vastly increased and the city thrived. After a fire in the mid-16th century, the Sukiennice was given a Renaissance facelift by Jan Maria Padovano, making it the most magnificent building in all of Kraków. Though the name ‘Sukiennice’ literally refers to textiles and fabrics, Kraków’s Cloth Hall saw an array of commodities bought and sold in its merchant stalls including wax, spices, leather and silk, as well as lead and salt from the nearby Wieliczka mines (p.72). To this day it is still crammed with merchant stalls selling amber, lace, woodwork and assorted tourist tat, and a stroll through its central thoroughfare is essential.

In 1879, despite the country having been partitioned for nearly a century (or rather because of it), the first Polish National Museum was established here on the upper floor, making the Cloth Hall the focus of a huge upsurge of Polish patriotism. Following a complete modernisation of the building’s interiors, this historical and highly recommended gallery was reopened as the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.62) in 2010. At the same time the Cloth Hall’s sloped roofs were converted into lovely terraces on the east side, where Cafe Szał now offers great views overlooking the market square and St. Mary’s Basilica, while on the ground floor the historical 1910 Noworolski Cafe (p.32) boasts wonderful Art Nouveau motifs by Jozef Mehoffer. The east side of the Cloth Hall is also the entry point for Rynek Underground (p.70) - one of Kraków’s most modern and popular museums, detailing the historical development of the area around the market square. Note, however, that tickets must be bought in an office on the west side of the Cloth Hall, and due to the museum’s popularity we suggest you get them a day in advance. QI‑5, Rynek Główny 1/3, www.mnk.pl.

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Old Town Walking Tour THE PLANTY

Once the site of the city’s 13th century defensive fortifications, the moats were filled, the walls razed and the towers demolished - with the notable exceptions of the grand Floriańska Gate and impenetrable Barbican during Austrian occupation in the first half of the 19th century. While today it’s easy to regret the short-sighted destruction of Kraków’s medieval city walls, we can thank the Austrians for replacing them with this lovely strollway of greenery encircling the centre of the Old Town. Known as the ‘lungs of the city’, the Planty is one of Kraków’s most unique and charming features - three kilometres of public parks and gardens filled with trees, flowers, benches and historic monuments. Walking its circuit would take over an hour, but represents a great way to see the city. A popular place for street musicians to perform, drunks to drink (note that drinking in public will win you a fine from the police) and teenage couples to make out, if you haven’t smooched someone on a park bench in the Planty before leaving town, well then you haven’t finished your itinerary.QC‑4/5. 10 TOWN HALL TOWER On the square’s other side is the 70 metre Town Hall Tower, the only element of the 14th century Town Hall remaining after many fires, renovations and shortsighted demolitions. Known as Kraków’s ‘leaning tower,’ the structure actually leans some 55cm, a curiosity credited to a particularly forceful wind back in 1703. Open until the end of December, for those who pay to enter, the Town Hall Tower offers little aside from some medieval costumes, black and white photos, information about the clock at its top, only semi-decent views, and lots of stairs. Beside the base of the Town Hall Tower you’ll find one of Kraków’s most well-known landmarks and popular meeting places - a giant, toppled bust known affectionately as ‘The Head.’ Inevitably serving as a backdrop for almost every tourist who visits Kraków (your turn!), the bronze body part’s official title is 11 ‘Eros Bendato’ (Eros Bound) and is the work of Polish artist Igor Mitoraj (1944 - 2014).QI‑5, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 43 34, www.mhk.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed from January 1. Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission 9/7zł, family ticket 18zł. Y

34 Kraków In Your Pocket

12 PIOTR SKRZYNECKI MONUMENT Before departing the market square, take note of one more monument opposite Eros - that of Piotr Skrzenecki. Always sharply dressed in hat and suit with fresh flowers in hand, the bronze Skrzynecki is a loyal patron of local dive bar Vis a Vis; so loyal that he exhibits total disregard for opening and closing times. A favourite spot of the real flesh-and-blood Piotr Skrzynecki, his bronze likeness is only a few doors down from Piwnica Pod Baranami (Rynek Główny 27), the legendary literary and political cabaret he founded in 1956. Until his death in 1997, Skrzynecki was an essential component of the Cracovian - and Polish - art scene, directing films, screenwriting, acting as Piwnica Pod Baranami’s conférencier, critiquing art, organising unusual cultural events, throwing far-out birthday bashes and being an all-around eccentric. His legacy lives on.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 29. 13 COLLEGIUM MAIUS

Exit the market square via ul. Św. Anny before veering onto ul. Jagiellońska to find Collegium Maius, the oldest building of Jagiellonian University, which is in turn the second oldest university in Central Europe. Built as the university’s main campus in the late 14th century, a century later it was redesigned as the late-Gothic structure surrounding the picturesque arcaded courtyard that has survived to this day. While professors lived and worked upstairs, it was in the ground floor lecture halls that Nicolaus Copernicus made doodles in the margins of his notebooks in the 1490s. Today a museum, over hour-long guided tours of the interiors and exhibits are given in English Mon-Fri at 13:00 (16/12zł), while more basic 30+ minute tours in English depart frequently (depends on interest; 12/6zł); it is suggested, however, that you call or visit in advance to reserve yourself a place on a tour. Inside you’ll visit the lecture hall, common rooms, professors’ quarters, library and treasury, seeing some fabulous interiors, paintings, furniture, medieval scientific instruments, rectors’ maces and other university memorabilia along the way, as well as the oldest surviving globe to depict the Americas. There is also a separate temporary exhibit entitled Science: Antiquated & Notso-antiquated (rough translation; exhibit open Mon-Fri 09:00 - 13:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, closed Sun; last entrance 12:30; admission 7/5zł). Another highlight of visiting is the courtyard clock (sadly undergoing renovations beginning in January 2019), from which wooden historical figures appear and parade past to music from the mid-16th century every two hours between 09:00 and 17:00. The building’s courtyard also houses a gift shop and cafe.QI‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13 07, www.maius. uj.edu.pl. Last entry 40mins before closing. Admission 12/6zł (30+ min tour), 16/12zł (60+ min tour); admission free for self-guided tours Sat 10:00 - 14:00, last entrance at 13:30. N

Old Town Walking Tour 14 COLLEGIUM NOVUM Found nearby, the main building of Jagiellonian University, Collegium Novum (Latin: New College) was built in 18731887 to a neo-gothic design by Feliks Księżarski to match the style of Collegium Maius. Subsidised with money from Vienna when Kraków was a ‘property’ of Austrian Galicia, the building was opened for the university’s 500th anniversary after years of controversy and debate. In addition to the gorgeous façade, the building contains a beautiful assembly hall (Aula) where a painting of Austria’s Franz Jozeph I hung until a group of students famously shredded it in a symbolic act calling for the restoration of an independent Polish Republic in 1918. Several important paintings remain, however, including portraits of university founders Kazimierz the Great and Władysław Jagiełło, and Jan Matejko’s Copernicus: Conversation with God. Today the university’s administrative centre, Collegium Novum is not necessarily open to tourists, but you might be able to have a poke around if you can pass yourself off as a student. A monument to Copernicus also stands nearby. QI‑6, ul. Gołębia 24.

STAINED GLASS

15 BISHOP’S PALACE & PAPAL WINDOW

A pleasing stroll through the Planty will soon bring you to the Bishop’s Palace - the second largest palace in Kraków (after Wawel) and residence of Kraków’s bishops since it was first built in the 14th century. Today the Palace is most famous for having been the residence of Cardinal Karol Wojtyla from 1958 to 1978, before he became Pope John Paul II. During his visits to Kraków as Pope he would often make evening appearances in the ‘Papal Window’ to address the crowds of his followers below - a tradition which Pope Francis continued during his visit for World Youth Day in July 2016. For years an image of John Paul II has filled the window (making it easy to identify); recently this was replaced with a beautiful mosaic image of the former Pope by Magdalena Czeska. During anniversaries you can be sure the area across the street will be festooned with flowers and candles. The building itself is off-limits, but the courtyard is open to tourists where you’ll find the city’s first monument of JPII, erected in 1980.QI‑6, ul. Franciszkańska 3. Courtyard open from 09:00 until dusk.

Thanks to a proliferation of magnificent churches, the largest stained glass studio in Poland, and resident artistic geniuses Stanisław Wyspiański and Józef Mehoffer, Kraków’s public buildings boast some of the finest examples of stained glass in all of Europe. Though there are many beautiful pieces of medieval window art throughout the city – particularly in Wawel Cathedral (p.40) and St. Mary’s Basilica (p.31) – stained glass reached its pinnacle as an artform here at the turn-of-the-century when S.G. Żeleński founded a studio specifically for stained glass, and persuaded the best Art Nouveau artists to work in the medium, including Wyspiański, Mehoffer and Stefan Matejko (nephew of Jan). Today the studio is still active, and open to the public as the Stained Glass Museum (p.70). Also don’t miss a visit to St. Francis’ Basilica (p.36) to see the magnificent window pictured above. For a complete list of beautiful stained glass sites in Kraków visit iyp.me/krakowstainedglass. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Old Town Walking Tour rotating brick panels and the fact that it is not suited for displaying stained glass at all (facepalm), the tiny building is too narrow to view the windows from inside, and natural light is not even able to pass through it. As a result, the out-facing windows are lit from inside and best viewed at night. Martyred Polish heroes St. Stanisław (on the left) and Henryk Pobożny (on the right) are shown Christ-like at the moment of their deaths, while Kazimierz the Great’s bare skull bears the royal crown between them. The building also serves as a tourist information point (open 09:00 17:00).QI‑6, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2.

16 ST. FRANCIS’ BASILICA Across the street you’ll find St. Francis’ Basilica, which may not look like much from the outside, but a trip inside reveals Kraków’s most colourful church, and our personal favourite, thanks to the gorgeous Art Nouveau interiors by native son Stanisław Wyspiański, which nicely balance the organic and geometric with unique floral patterns. Wyspiański also made the eight stained-glass windows here around 1895, including the controversial, iconic and absolutely must-see centrepiece, ‘God the Father in the Act of Creation’ (p.35). Dating back to the 13th century, St. Francis’ Basilica was the first brick building in the city and is well worth popping in, even for those who could care less for looking at another church.QI‑6, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 53 76, www.franciszkanska.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00; Sun 13:00 - 15:00. No visiting during mass please. 17 WYSPIAŃSKI PAVILLION

Following his work on St. Francis Basilica, Wyspiański was commissioned to design a triptych of windows for Wawel Cathedral. At the time, however, the artist’s haunting portrayals of St. Stanisław, Kazimierz the Great and Henryk Pobożny were deemed too grotesque and controversial to instal, and the project was shelved until director Andrzej Wajda resurrected the idea of producing them 100 years later. Using Wyspiański’s designs, the work was carried out by Piotr Ostrowski of the Stained Glass Museum and a building designed by Krzysztof Ingarden specifically for displaying them was erected near St. Francis Basilica in 2007. Curious for its facade of 36 Kraków In Your Pocket

18 CHURCH OF SAINTS PETER & PAUL Walking down busy ul. Grodzka you are now officially back on the ‘Royal Route.’ One of Kraków’s most striking churches is the Church of Saints Peter & Paul - a Jesuit Church built in the early 1600s. The twelve disciples standing on the gates outside are the church’s most visually arresting feature, but the interior has been extensively renovated and the airy, austere grandeur of this late Renaissance building is now evident. The crypt serves as the new national pantheon for Poles distinguished in the arts, science and culture (Sławomir Mrożek was the first interred here in 2013). Possessors of a 46.5m Foucault Pendulum - a device invented by French physicist Leon Foucault in 1851 which proves the earth’s rotation, shows demonstrating its use generally occur on Thursdays at 10:00, 11:00 and 12:00, but call or check their website to be sure.QJ‑7, ul. Grodzka 52A, tel. (+48) 12 350 63 65, www.apostolowie.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00; Sun 13:30 - 17:00. 19 ST. ANDREW’S CHURCH Standing alongside the Church of Saints Peter & Paul, St. Andrew’s offers the finest example of Romanesque architecture in Kraków. Built between 1079 and 1098, it has been a place of worship for 900 years and was used as a refuge and fortress during Tartar invasions. Most of the relics were looted anyway, making a trip inside a bit of a letdown. Remodelled by Baldassare Fontana during the mad-for-all-things-Baroque 18th century, note the pulpit which resembles a boat - typical of the Baroque style.QJ‑7, ul. Grodzka 54, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 12. Open 09:00 17:00. No visiting during mass please.

Ul. Grodzka: Church of Saints Peter & Paul, St. Andrew’s

Old Town Walking Tour 20 PLAC ŚW. MARII MAGDALENY The most picturesque route to Wawel is by cutting through Plac Św. Marii Magdaleny - a favourite haunt among local skateboarding youths, who pay no heed to the stern sculpture of Jesuit priest Piotr Skarga watching over the area. Its name comes from the long-gone St. Mary Magdalene Church, which stood in this spot from roughly the 13th century until 1809 or 1811, when it was demolished after falling into a state of hopeless disrepair. A house was built on the freed plot of land, only to succumb to a fire in 1945, whereafter the gap was simply turned into a public square. Sick, bro.QI‑7, Plac Św. Marii Magdaleny.

„One of the best dining experiences we have ever had. This place deserves a michelin star!” James by krakow.inyourpocket.com ul. Kanonicza

photo by Przemek Czaja, fb.com/MadeinKrakow

21 UL. KANONICZA Now on ul. Kanonicza, this is one of Kraków’s oldest and most picturesque streets - a cobbled lane lined with superb examples of Renaissance and Baroque architecture, and many of them leading into lush, quiet courtyards. Number 17 is a branch of the National Museum (Bishop Erazm Ciołek Palace, p.63), while next door and at number 19 is the Archdiocesan Museum (p.63) - where Karol Wojtyła lived on two separate occasions before becoming Pope John Paul II. At the very end, number 25, lies the former royal bathhouse nowadays better known as ‘Dom Długosza.’ One popular tale surrounding the bathhouse claims that the future Queen Jadwiga, concerned about rumours that Lithuanians had gigantic genitals, sent one of her servants to spy on the manhood of Lithuanian Grand Duke Jagiełło - her husband-to-be. Her fears appear to have been allayed and the couple later got married, taking up residence at Wawel Royal Castle - at the foot of which ul. Kanonicza deposits you. The city’s defining landmark, and a source of great pride, patriotic and spiritual strength, Wawel and the Wisła riverbanks below it are worth spending half a day exploring on their own. Turn the page to begin.QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza.

Kraków, ul. Grodzka 40 tel. +48 12 430 04 11 www.miodmalina.pl

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Wawel

The magnificent Renaissance courtyard at Wawel. | © efektstudio80, dollarphotoclub

The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top of the hill of the same name immediately south of the Old Town (I/J-5), is by far the most important collection of buildings in Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope, selfrule and not least of all fierce patriotism, Wawel offers a uniquely Polish version of the British Buckingham Palace and Westminster Abbey rolled into one. A gorgeous assortment of predominantly Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic architecture dating from around the 14th century onwards, Wawel is the crown jewel of Kraków’s architectural treasures and required visiting for Poles and foreigners alike. Even for those who know or care little about the country’s past, Poland’s ancient seat of royalty contains a vast wealth of treasures inside its heavily fortified walls that can’t fail to inspire. Made up of the Castle and the Cathedral, of which the former contains most, but by no means all of the exhibitions, Wawel’s must-see highlights include the opulent State Rooms, a tantalising glimpse of Poland’s very own crown jewels inside the Crown Treasury (currently closed), the historical interiors of the Cathedral, and, weather permitting, a leisurely stroll around its courtyards and gardens. After the 2010 Smoleńsk disaster, Wawel’s Royal Crypts became the final resting place of President Lech Kaczyński and his wife Maria; their tombs are open to the public free of charge. A full tour of Wawel, which is hard work but comes with its own rewards, can take an entire day or more. Take note, however, that due to the site’s popularity, you’d be wise to reserve tickets for the exhibits you want to see at least one day in advance. 38 Kraków In Your Pocket

WAWEL CASTLE Wawel’s prominence as a centre of political power predates the building of the first Cathedral on the site in 1000AD. Evidence shows that Wawel Hill was being used as a fortified castle before Poland’s first ruler, Mieszko I (circa 962-992) chose Wawel as one of his official residences. The first Polish king crowned in Wawel Cathedral was the teenage Władysław the Short (1306-1333) on January 20, 1319, beginning a tradition that would see a further 35 royal rulers crowned there up until the 17th century. All of these rulers used the Castle as a residence, and all of them added their own architectural details to the building. The moving of the capital to Warsaw in 1596 and Poland’s subsequent decline and partitioning saw the Royal Castle fall into a state of disrepair. The occupying Austrians used it as a military hospital and even went so far as to demolish several buildings including a number of churches on the site. The 20th century saw the Castle change hands on a number of occasions, most famously when the Castle was used as the headquarters of the Nazi Governor General, Hans Frank, during the German occupation of WWII. Today’s Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of styles including Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque. The inner courtyard with its delightful colonnades is a true architectural masterpiece, and the treasures contained within do much to contribute to Kraków’s rightful status as a truly world-class city. While almost all exhibits require a ticket, there is no charge to stroll and admire the castle grounds and courtyards. QI‑7, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 12 422 51 55 (ext.219), www. wawel.krakow.pl. Admission free for castle grounds; tickets required for various interior exhibits.

Wawel STATE ROOMS The main exhibition of Wawel Castle’s interiors, the spectacular State Rooms include several rooms on the ground floor - all of which have retained their magnificent Renaissance-era timber ceilings - and the guest apartments on the second floor. These are the rooms where the royals once entertained, held court, conducted sessions of the Senate, and hosted guests. Full of luscious oil paintings, intricate 16th-century tapestries, and some truly extraordinary wallcoverings, highlights include the Senator’s Hall - the largest room in the castle, which hosted the first royal wedding back in 1518, and the Envoys’ Room - complete with 30 wooden heads on the coffered ceiling (originally there were 194!) and an original throne that really brings the majesty of Poland’s past to life. Absolutely worth visiting, give yourself at least 40mins to take in all the extravagance.QI‑7, Open 09:30 - 16:00; closed Mon; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 1hr before closing. Admission 18/10zł. Sun free. ROYAL PRIVATE APARTMENTS The Royal Private Apartments are basically a continuation of the State Rooms tour of the castle’s interiors, and equally stunning, however these rooms can only be accessed on a specially conducted guided tour (available in English or Polish; max. 10 people per group). Consisting of the royal bedchambers and guest rooms, these rooms on the first floor reveal how the royals lived and arranged their private lives. Packed with delightful Gothic and Renaissance details, your 40-60min guided tour will include the wonderful Guest Bedroom, complete with original Renaissance larch wood ceiling, and the charmingly-named, but mysterious ‘Hen’s Foot’ - two small rooms inside the 14th-century Belvedere Tower, which offer great views of Kraków’s Old Town, but whose original function is unknown.QI‑7, Tours depart every 10 mins 09:30 - 15:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 21/16zł.

State Rooms, The Senator’s Hall

INFO & TICKETS WAWEL VISITOR CENTRE Wawel visitor numbers are restricted and tickets are timed in an attempt to prevent overcrowding. To guarantee entry as well as avoiding the need to stand in long queues, call tel. 12 422 16 97 to reserve tickets for the exhibition you want to see at least one day before you visit. Tickets should be collected at the Wawel Visitor Centre Reservation Office at least 30mins before the reserved tour time. All exhibits are self-guided except for the Royal Apartments, however foreign language guides can be arranged at extra cost if done in advance. In addition to ticket sales and pickup, the Visitor Centre is also the place to get more info about various seasonal and theme tours on offer, pick up free maps or make use of the small post office, gift shop, cafe/restaurant and toilets.QI‑8, Wawel 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 51 55 (ext. 219), www.wawel.krakow. pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. CATHEDRAL TICKET OFFICE The Cathedral and the Castle have different ticket offices. Tickets for the Cathedral can be purchased only in the ticket office directly opposite the Cathedral entrance. While entrance to the actual cathedral itself is free you will need a ticket to enter the adjoining Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell tower. A single ticket covers these as well as the Cathedral Museum. Audioguides are recommended to make the most of the experience, and can be rented here for 7/5zł (in Polish, English, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish, Czech, French and Hungarian).QI‑7, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 95 15, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:30, Sun 12:30 - 15:30. Tickets covering the Cathedral Museum, Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell cost 12/7zł. Note that the Cathedral Museum is closed Sun, but your ticket is valid to visit another day.

Bedchamber in the Royal Apartments

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Wawel LOST WAWEL Essentially an archaeological and architectural reserve, the smartly conceived and executed exhibits here focus on the restored remains of the Rotunda of the Blessed Virgin Mary - Kraków’s first church, and the most wellpreserved pre-Romanesque church in PL, as well as the former royal kitchens and coach house. Visitors will also see several lapidariums of early stonework, a collection of colourful Renaissance tiles, scale models, and virtual reconstructions of what Wawel Hill looked like over one thousand years ago.QI‑7, Open 09:30 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Last entrance 1hr before closing. Admission 8/5zł. Sun free (but ticket still required; check ticket office for availability). ORIENTAL ART This exhibit in the western wing of the castle comprises art from the Near East which was highly prized and fashionable amongst the Polish nobility as it entered the kingdom via military and trade contact with Turkey, Iran, the Caucasus and Crimea. Visitors will see unique collections of Chinese ceramic and Japanese porcelain, but the part of the exhibit that makes it essential are the trophies, banners, weapons and other artefacts captured during King Jan Sobieski III’s famous victory over the Turkish army at Vienna in 1683, including Ottoman commander Kara Mustapha Para’s sabre.QI‑7, Entrance at 11:00 & 14:00 only. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 7/4zł.

A wintry view of Wawel from across the river.

40 Kraków In Your Pocket

Wawel Cathedral

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WAWEL CATHEDRAL The scene of the crowning of almost every Polish king and queen throughout history, the current Wawel Cathedral is the third to be built on the site. The first cathedral was built of wood, probably around 1020, but certainly after the founding of the Bishopric of Kraków in 1000AD. Destroyed by fire it was replaced by a second cathedral that subsequently burnt down again. The current building was consecrated in 1364 and built on the orders of Poland’s first king to be crowned at Wawel, Władysław the Short (aka. Władysław the Elbow-high, 1306-1333), who was crowned among the charred rubble of its predecessor in 1319. Considered the most important single building in Poland, Wawel’s extraordinary Cathedral contains much that is original, although many glorious additions have been made over the centuries. Arguably not as stunning as that of its cousin St. Mary’s on the Rynek, the interior of Wawel Cathedral more than makes up for its visual shortcomings thanks to the sheer amount of history packed inside. At its centre is the imposing tomb of the former Bishop of Kraków, St. Stanisław (1030-1079), a suitably grand monument dedicated to the controversial cleric after whom the Cathedral is dedicated. Boasting 18 chapels, all of them about as ostentatious as you’re ever likely to see, of particular interest is the 15th-century Chapel of the Holy Cross, found to the right as you enter and featuring some wonderful Russian murals as well as Veit Stoss’ 1492 marble sarcophagus to Kazimierz IV. If you’re willing to spend the 12/7zł, the Royal Crypts in the basement offer a cold and atmospheric diversion as the final resting place of kings and statesmen, while at the top of a gruelling wooden series of staircases is the vast, 12.6 tonne Sigismund Bell - so loud it can supposedly be heard 30km away.QI‑7, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 27, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:00. Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission free.

Wawel ROYAL CRYPTS While all Poland’s pre-16th kings were buried beneath or within their hulking sarcophagi still on view in the Cathedral today, that trend stopped in 1533 when King Sigismund I had his wife interred in a purpose-built underground vault. He joined her in 1548 and the crypts were expanded in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries to house the remains of nine more Polish kings, their wives and, in some cases, their children thereafter. Upon the demise of the monarchy (and kingdom itself ), the honour was extended to statesmen with Prince Józef Poniatowski (1817), Tadeusz Kościuszko (1818), poets Adam Mickiewicz (1890) and Juliusz Słowacki (1923), Józef Piłsudski (1935) and General Władysław Sikorski (1993) all securing themselves a place here. Most recently - in April of 2010 - the late President Lech Kaczyński and his wife Maria were controversially interred here after the tragedy in Smoleńsk; admission to their tomb (and that of Piłsudski) is free. Descend the stairs inside the Cathedral into the remarkably chilly chambers, beginning with the 11th century St. Leonard’s Crypt - the best Romanesque interior in PL; the exit deposits you back outside.QI‑7, Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:00. Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission 12/7zł. SIGISMUND BELL Follow the crowds up many gruelling flights of stairs to reach the infamous Sigismund Bell - a resounding symbol of Polish nationalism ala Philadelphia’s Liberty Bell. The largest of five bells hanging in the same tower, Sigismund’s Bell weighs in at an astounding 12.6 total tonnes (9650 kgs just for the bell itself ), measures 241cm in height, 242cm in diametre and varies from 7 to 21cm thick. The bronze beauty was cast in 1520 on the orders of King Sigismund I and is adorned in reliefs of St. Stanisław and St. Sigismund as well as the coat of arms of Poland and Lithuania. Rung to this day on religious and national holidays, as well as significant moments in history (like the funeral of late President Lech Kaczyński and his wife) the bell’s peal can be heard 30km (186 miles) away and is quite an enterprise to ring, requiring twelve bell-tollers who are actually lifted from the ground by the bell’s force. The entrance is within the Cathedral and tickets (good for the Royal Crypts as well) are purchased at the ticket office across from the Cathedral entrance.QI‑7, Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:00. Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission 12/7zł. CATHEDRAL MUSEUM Opened in 1978 by Karol Wojtyła just before he became Pope John Paul II, the fabulous Cathedral Museum features a wealth of religious and secular items dating from the 13th century onwards, all related to the ups and downs of the Cathedral next door. Among its most valuable possessions is the sword deliberately snapped into three pieces at the funeral of the Calvinist king, Zygmunt August (1548-1572) - the last of the Jagiellonian dynasty, as well as all manner of coronation robes and royal insignias to boot. A large monument of Pope JPII stands outside the entrance.QI‑7, Wawel 2, Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission 12/7zł.

THE WAWEL DRAGON

Standing on the Wisła riverbank in the shade of Wawel Castle is a rather ugly likeness of the Wawel Dragon (Smok Wawelski), who - according to local legend - once reposed in the large cave behind him when not out and about in town scarfing up virgins and sheep. Finally vanquished when he was tricked into eating a bag of sulphur, this monument in his honour was unveiled in 1972 to a design by the local artist Bronisław Chromy. Extremely popular with the kids you’ll find climbing all over it, it was once possible to send Smok an SMS which would send him into fits of fire-breathing bliss, however he now does it without checking his phone first, so just be patient and don’t look down his throat. Outside the entrance of Wawel Cathedral (I-7), you may also notice an odd collection of massive bones chained up on the left outside the entrance. While legend obviously purports these to be the bones of Wawel’s fearsome dragon, more conventional wisdom has claimed they might be parts belonging to a blue whale, woolly mammoth, rhinoceros, or all three. At any rate, they haven’t been removed and inspected for centuries due to their magical properties, which are credited with protecting the city from destruction during centuries of Polish partition and particularly during WWII when almost every other major city in Poland got pancaked.QI‑8. krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Plac Nowy (p.44) captures the gritty, boho spirit of Kazimierz today.

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Kazimierz Walking Tour Kazimierz – the district south of the Old Town between ul. Dietla to the north and the Wisła River to the south was the centre of Jewish life in Kraków for over 500 years, before it was systematically destroyed during World War II. In the communist era Kazimierz became one of Kraków’s dodgiest districts while gradually falling into disrepair. Rediscovered in the 1990s, thanks to the fall of the regime and worldwide exposure through the lens of Steven Spielberg, Kazimierz began its rebound and is today arguably Kraków’s most exciting district – a bustling, bohemian neighbourhood packed with historical sites, atmospheric cafes, art shops and galleries. Well-known for its associations with Schindler and Spielberg, traces of Kazimierz’s Jewish history have not only survived, but literally abound in the form of the district’s numerous synagogues and Jewish cemeteries. In fact, no other place in Europe conveys a sense of pre-war Jewish culture better than Kazimierz. As a result, the district has become a major tourist draw and pilgrimage site for Jews, and contemporary Jewish culture has gradually returned to prove that there’s more to Kazimierz than just sepia photographs and old synagogues. In addition to Jewish culture, however, here you’ll find the heart of Kraków’s artistic, bohemian character behind the wooden shutters of dozens of antique shops and art galleries. Peeling façades and obscure courtyards hide dozens of bars and cafes, many affecting an air of pre-war timelessness. Centred around the former Jewish square now known as Plac Nowy, Kazimierz has emerged as the city’s best destination for café culture, street food and nightlife. Alternative, edgy and packed with oddities, Kazimierz is an essential point of interest to any visitor.

WALKING TOUR IYP’s Kazimierz walking tour weaves you through the district between its major points of interest, beginning at ‘Stradom’ - exactly one tram stop south of Wawel, and ending at Plac Wolnica, from which point you’re wellpositioned to carry on into Podgórze across the river (p.50). The trail is exactly 1.5km and can be done in as little as 30 minutes if you refuse to take more than a passing interest in anything; for those that have the time to spend we reckon it will comfortably occupy a few hours. An incredibly self-contained and densely pack little neighbourhood, you could obviously start at any point on the map, but for our purposes we begin the route as a logical extension of our Old Town Walking Tour (p.28) and an exploration of Wawel (p.38, not that you could do all that in one day). A less than ten-minute walk from Wawel Castle, or a trip on trams 6, 8, 10, 13, 18 or 73, will deposit you at the threshold of Kazimierz at the stop ‘Stradom;’ though the north and southbound stops are a full block apart, if you’ve come from the north by simply disembarking the tram and crossing over ul. Dietla you have officially entered Kazimierz.

0 UL. DIETLA

Today a major traffic artery through the city, until 1878 ul. Dietla was a swampy tributary of the Wisła before then-mayor Józef Dietl (hence the name) had it filled and turned into a green beltway. Though war damages, the addition of vehicular lanes and eventually a tramline in 1970 have lessened its appeal as a park, ul. Dietla remains a landmark street lined with imposing tenement buildings, many of them built by wealthy Jewish merchants. As you cross, look back to where you got off the tram which is directly below the Ohrenstein house (ul. Dietla 42) - this five-storey tenement building was built between 1911 and 1913 and was the city’s largest pre-war tenement building; a spire at its peak was taken down by the Nazis.QJ‑8. UL. MEISELSA Following the prescribed trail brings you to ul. Meiselsa, or ‘ulica Rabina Beera Meiselsa’ to give it its full due, so named after Dow Ber Meisels - Chief Rabbi of Kraków from 1832 to 1856, and then Chief Rabbi of Warsaw until his death in 1870. Deeply involved in politics, Meisels was a Polish patriot and nationalist who fought to abolish discriminatory laws against Jews, and supported Polish independence. In Kraków with Catholic support he served on the Senate and even represented the city in sessions of the Austrian Parliament in Vienna. In Warsaw his outspoken support of the Polish cause led to persecution from the Russian government and multiple periods of forced exile; his funeral in 1870 became a large Polish-Jewish demonstration against Russian rule. At the symbolically loaded corner of ul. Meiselsa and ul. Bożego Ciała (Corpus Christi Street), Judaism and Christianity intersect. A 19th century Jewish bathhouse is today Hevre (p.105) - a hip bar and restaurant, while catty-corner is a mural of Gene Kelly singing in the rain, before you reach a picturesque passageway on the right made famous in scenes from Spielberg’s Schindler’s List (ul. Meiselsa 17). Next door is Mleczarnia - the neighbourhood’s best beer garden (closed for the season) - before reaching the Judaica Foundation and Plac Nowy.QJ/K‑8.

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Kazimierz Walking Tour 1 JUDAICA FOUNDATION (CENTRE FOR JEWISH CULTURE) Located inside a former Jewish prayer house which was in operation from the 1880s up until WWII, this building was saved from ruin, renovated, and opened as a Jewish cultural centre in 1993. Today it subsists on a steady diet of lectures, concerts, art exhibits, film screenings and other events that reflect Jewish life in Poland’s past and present. In the cellar you’ll find an antique store and bookshop full of Judaica, while the ground floor hosts the cafe/bar, whose small rooftop garden (open April to October) is one of Kazimierz’s best-kept secrets.QK‑8, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 49, www.judaica.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. 2 PLAC NOWY While Kraków’s main square, Rynek Główny, makes all the postcards and photographs, Plac Nowy has established itself as the spiritual centre of Cracovian subculture. Lacking the splendour of the Old Town, Plac Nowy is actually something of an eyesore – a concrete square lined with cars and filled with food hatches, metal market stalls and rat-like pigeons. If you want something completely different from the Old Town, however, here it is.

Incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late 17th century, Plac Nowy (New Square) didn’t really begin assuming its shape until the early 19th century, with its central landmark, the Okrąglak (rotunda), added as late as 1900. For generations this square was referred to by locals as Plac Żydowski (Jewish Square); not only was it the primary marketplace of the Jewish quarter, but the rotunda served as a ritual slaughterhouse for poultry right up until Nazi occupation. Today butcher shops still occupy the interior, but the real activity is outside where hungry locals of every ilk line-up in front of hole-in-the-wall food hatches to enjoy the best ‘zapiekanki’ (p.81) in Poland. Essentially a French bread pizza with the toppings of your choice, visiting Kraków without eating a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be like visiting Dublin without having a Guinness. Merchant stalls surround the rotunda, and you’ll find something happening here daily from 08:00 until early afternoon. Fresh produce, sweets and random rubbish are constant guarantees, but weekly highlights include junk/ antique sale Saturdays, Sunday’s clothing market, and Friday morning’s bewildering small critter expo/pigeon fair. A photo essay waiting to happen, arrive between 05:30 and 08:30 to the latter to learn the answer to the riddle, ‘How many rabbits fit in a suitcase?’ As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a new guise: Kraków’s premier pub crawl circuit. Full of shambolic charm, veteran boozers Singer (p.119) and Alchemia (p.113) put Plac Nowy on the nightlife map, and remain the square’s best bets for candlelit, pre-war mystique. In recent years the bars on offer have begun to diversify, but the fact of the matter remains that this bohemian outpost is one of Kraków’s most interesting and exciting nightlife destinations.QK‑8. 44 Kraków In Your Pocket

Kazimierz Walking Tour 3 TEMPLE SYNAGOGUE Exit Plac Nowy stage left via ul. Estery and you’ll run straight into the JCC and adjoining Temple Synagogue. Kazimierz’s newest synagogue dates back to 1862, with several later expansions, the most recent of which was in 1924. Under Nazi occupation the building was used as a warehouse and stables, yet survived the war and regular services were even held here until 1968, before stopping completely a decade later. Since restoration, the gilded woodwork within now plays host to many concerts and occasional religious ceremonies, particularly during the annual Jewish Festival of Culture each summer.QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11, www.krakow. jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Sat. Admission 10/5zł. 4 JEWISH COMMUNITY CENTRE Opened in 2008 by the Prince of Wales, the JCC is the headquarters of Kraków’s surviving and strengthening Jewish community and organises numerous events, lectures, exhibits, tours and community programmes with the aim of rebuilding Jewish life in Kraków. A friendly first point of contact for anyone wanting to know more about Kraków’s Jewish community, walk-ins are welcome; or check their website or FB page to see what’s going on.QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 75, www. jcckrakow.org. Open 10:00 - 20:30, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat.

5 KUPA SYNAGOGUE Continuing down ul. Miodowa you’ll quickly find another synagogue on your right side. The rather unfortunatelynamed Kupa synagogue was founded in 1643, using funds from the local kahal/qahal (mi-kupat ha-kahal) - the autonomous Jewish government - which we’re told explains where the name comes from, but doesn’t change the fact that ‘kupa’ means ‘poop’ in Polish (oh well). Designed in the Baroque style with a square prayer room, the synagogue shared a wall with the original Kazimierz city defensive walls, which can still be seen today. During the war it was looted and many architectural elements were destroyed, including the bimah. Restored in 2002, the richly decorated interior features ceiling paintings of Biblical scenes and holy places done by an unknown artist in the 1920s, as well as zodiac symbols on the balcony. An informational pamphlet in English is available for visitors, and there is also a small photography exhibit in the upstairs women’s gallery.QK‑8, ul. Warszauera 8 (entrance from ul. Miodowa 27), tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35, www.krakow. jewish.org.pl. Open 09:30 - 16:00, Fri 09:30 - 14:00, Closed Sat. Admission 5/3zł.

Read more about Kazimierz online: iyp.me/kazimierz

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Kazimierz Walking Tour

Ulica Szeroka

UL. SZEROKA Make a right onto ul. Szeroka, perhaps Kazimierz’s most characteristic street, and you’ll walk down a narrow lane which has been staged to resemble a row of prewar Jewish shop fronts (actually the ‘Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu’ restaurant, p.103) before the street opens up into a wide square. Kraków’s very own ‘Broad Street’ (as the favourite opening line of local tour guides goes) might differ considerably from its NYC doppelnamer, but the moniker fits; the street originally served as the town square of a small 12th-century village known as Bawół, which was absorbed into Kazimierz in 1340, a few years after the latter was awarded its charter. In the late 15th century Jews banished from Kraków started settling in this area, and a new synagogue was established on the square for three subsequent centuries - all of which survive to this day. The epicentre of Jewish heritage tourism in Kraków, among the main points of interest on ul. Szeroka are a monument of Jan Karski - ‘Righteous Among the Nations’ for his early efforts to alert the Western Allies of the Holocaust - beside the Remuh Synagogue (ul. Szeroka 40), and a 16th-century Jewish bath house (mikvah) located in the basement of what is today the Klezmer Hois hotel and restaurant (ul. Szeroka 6, p.103). At the north end of the square a small patch of grass that was probably established as a cemetery for plague victims is today a memorial and “Place of meditation upon the martyrdom of 65,000 Polish citizens of Jewish nationality from Cracow,” as a large stone monument explains.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka.

NEW JEWISH CEMETERY This enormous cemetery was established in 1800 and was the burial ground for many of Kraków’s distinguished Jews in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Its story takes on a darker aspect with the decimation of the Jewish population between 1939 and 1945. Many of the tombstones are actually no more than memorials to entire families that were killed in the Holocaust, which now lie in overgrown clusters. The rejuvenation of Kazimierz has not fully penetrated the walls of the New Cemetery, but there are many newly-lit candles burning over the headstones. An undeniably evocative place for a reflective walk, please cover your head upon entry. QL‑7, ul. Miodowa 55. Open 0 9:00 - 16:00; closed Sat. 46 Kraków In Your Pocket

6 REMUH SYNAGOGUE & CEMETERY Dating from 1553, this is Kraków’s smallest but most active synagogue, with Shabbat services once again taking place here each Friday following the recent completion of restoration works. The synagogue was established by the family of famous 16th century Polish rabbi Moses Isserles - better known as ‘the Rema,’ based on a Hebrew acronym, and is unique for the proximity of the Old Jewish Cemetery adjacent to it. In use until 1800, this holy burial ground fell into utter ruin during Nazi occupation with only a dozen tombstones surviving WWII in their original state; among them was that of Rabbi Moses Isserles, which many interpreted as proof of his miraculous power. After the war the cemetery was ‘tidied up’ with many of the intact tombstones being rearranged in straight rows, and fragments of those which could not be restored used to create a ‘wailing wall’ along ulica Szeroka. Today the cemetery and synagogue - whose modestly decorated interior features a reconstructed bimah and restored ceiling motifs - are an important pilgrimage site for devout Jews from all over the world.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 40, tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Sat. Admission 10/5zł.

Remuh Cemetery

Allie Caufield, flickr.com

7 POPPER SYNAGOGUE Tucked behind a gated courtyard, nestled between the street’s Jewish restaurants, you’ll find Popper Synagogue - the least celebrated of ul. Szeroka’s Jewish places of worship. Built in 1620 by wealthy Jewish merchant Wolf Popper, the building was devastated during WWII such that none of its interiors survived; in fact little is known of them. Converted into a cultural centre (Dom Kultury) during the PRL era, the synagogue was only recently returned to the hands of the Jewish community and is now under the stewardship of Austeria - a publishing house and bookshop specialising in Judaica (literature, history and guide books in a number of languages). A colourful Jewishthemed mural can be found in the courtyard here, and upstairs is a small gallery space with changing exhibits that typically charges admission.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 16, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 89. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Kazimierz Walking Tour 8 OLD SYNAGOGUE Built on the cusp of the 15th and 16th centuries, this is the oldest surviving example of Jewish religious architecture in Poland, and home to a fine series of exhibits that showcase the history and traditions of Polish Judaism. The English explanations assume no great depth of knowledge on the reader’s part and are therefore a perfect primer on the subject. In the midst of all the glass cases stands the bimah enclosed in an elaborate, wrought iron balustrade. There are also changing temporary exhibitions, and the bookshop sells a fine selection of works related to Jewish Kraków in a number of languages.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 24, tel. (+48) 12 422 09 62, www.mhk.pl. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 11/9zł, family ticket 22zł, Mon free. Y 9 ISAAC SYNAGOGUE Either before or after exploring the Old Synagogue, take a detour down ul. Lemkowa - a small, picturesque lane which leads to the Plac Izaaka food truck square directly behind the Isaac Synagogue. Built in the early Judaic-Baroque style, the Isaac Synagogue was a gift to the city from Izaak Jakubowicz, and opened in 1644. The design is decoratively endowed with arabesques and arches, yet retains a sober linearity, especially within. There is much to admire, not least the fragments of original wall scriptures. Rabbi Eliezer Gurary runs the place with a smile and is usually on hand to provide information to all comers. A shop inside sells kosher food, sweets, Jewish calendars and other items, and around the back you’ll find Szalom Falafel - Kraków’s only kosher fast food restaurant (ul. Jakuba 21; open 10:00 - 21:30, Sat 17:00 21:30, closed Fri).QK‑8, ul. Kupa 18, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 22, www.chabadkrakow.org. Open 08:30 - 18:00, Fri 08:30 14:30, closed Sat. Admission 10/5zł. 10 KAZIMIERZ HISTORICAL MURAL Turning from the Isaac Synagogue onto ul. Kupa you’ll immediately see this mural by Piotr Janowczyk. Installed outside Pub Wręga in autumn of 2015 as part of the Kazimierz Historical Murals project, the work features portraits of five Polish historical figures - namely, (from left to right) Emperor Józef Hapsburg II, Helena Rubinstein (born in the district), Karol Knaus (local architect, artist and conservator), Esterka (the Jewish lover of King Kazimierz the Great), and finally King Kazimierz the Great himself. Information on each character can be found in English beside the work.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 17.

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Kazimierz Walking Tour 13 GALICIA JEWISH MUSEUM A walk to the end of ul. Józefa brings you back to ul. Szeroka and the Old Synagogue. If you walk down the Synagogue steps you can cut across to the left to ul. Dajwór and the Galicia Jewish Museum; as you cross the street make sure to take note of the large-scale mural on Plac Bawół to your right, which was inspired by the Jewish family that lived in the building for 400 years before relocating to Israel after WWII.

Entrance to the High Synagogue and Austeria Jewish bookshop 11 HIGH SYNAGOGUE Further on you’ll find the third oldest synagogue in Kraków, completed in 1563. Unique for having its prayer room upstairs, it’s widely speculated that the High synagogue was thus designed to protect the congregation from unfriendly neighbours. The design didn’t save it from being the subject of arson during WWII sadly, and today no furnishings remain. The upstairs prayer room has retained some original details, however, including the Holy Ark, two golden griffins have survived above the Aron Kodesh, and some of the murals have been restored. The size of the high-ceilinged room and quality of those details that do remain indicate that this was a magnificent space before its destruction. Today admission is paid to go upstairs to the prayer room, where visitors will also see a small temporary museum exhibit. On the ground floor is Austeria - a large bookstore with books of Jewish interest in a variety of languages.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 38, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 89. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 9:30 - 19:00. Admission to upstairs exhibit 12/9zł, children under 10 free. 12 KOWEA ITIM LE-TORA PRAYER HOUSE If you thought Kraków had a lot of churches, two doors down from the High Synagogue, en route to the Old Synagogue, you’ll find this Orthodox prayer house. Most of what we know of the building is based off of its still-justvisible Hebrew inscription, which says something along the lines of ‘Making Time for the Torah Society,’ and indicates that Talmud lessons were conducted here. The two Stars of David on either side of the inscription tell us that the organisation was founded in 1810 and that the building was renovated in 1912. The original mezuzah trace can be seen on the doorway here, and on many buildings in the district if you keep your eye out. Devastated during the war, today the building is strictly residential.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 42.

48 Kraków In Your Pocket

The Galicia Jewish Museum also features a huge mural on its exterior wall, and a journey deep into the adjacent garden reveals further murals of Irena Sendler (Righteous Among the Nations) and Marek Edelman (leader of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising). Inside, this popular museum keeps the memory of Jewish life in southern Poland and western Ukraine alive today via hundreds of photographs documenting former Jewish sites in former ‘Galicia’ - the name of the ethnically diverse northernmost province of the Austrian Habsburg Empire, which existed from 1772-1918 and extended from Kraków to Ternopil. The images of forgotten cemeteries, derelict synagogues and death camps prove haunting and sober viewing, and deserve to be an essential part of any Kazimierz tour. The converted warehouse also houses small temporary exhibits, a large bookstore selling a range of titles of Jewish interest and a cafe.QL‑8, ul. Dajwór 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68 42, www.galiciajewishmuseum.org. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 16/11zł, family ticket 30zł, children under 7 free. Guided tours available (in English, French and German) for individual and groups if arranged in advance. UY UL. ŚW. WAWRZYŃCA Named after Saint Lawrence, this long street which leads you from the Galicia Jewish Museum to Plac Wolnica was one of the most industrialised streets in the city in the early 1900s, and the city’s electrical power plant and gas works both remain hidden here in the spacious territory between ul. Wawrzyńca and the river. Several points of interest can be found along this street, the first, and most enticing of which, is the Judah Square Food Truck Park (p.83) and the large mural by Israeli street artist Pil Peled that presides over it. Next, on the same side of the street is the former Jewish school, today a pubic high school. If you follow the tram tracks beneath you’re feet, you’ll notice that they run astray off the left side of the street about halfway down the road, and go no further. This is Kazimierz’s late 19th century tram depot, today home to the Engineering Museum (p.64) - one of the city’s more charming and family-friendly museums - and also the classy Studio Qulinarne restaurant (entrance from ul. Gazowa). The second half of this huge and historical transportation complex is actually across the street and today host to the sprawling Stara Zajezdnia (p.119) brewery, beer hall and restaurant.

Kazimierz Walking Tour Heading on from the tram depot, the entire final two city blocks to Plac Wolnica on the right side belong to the church, Corpus Christi Church to be exact. One of the city’s largest holy sites, this massive brick beauty is a three-naver in Gothic style and dates back to the 14th century. According to legend, a robber who had stolen a holy relic repented on this spot, abandoning the reliquary. The priests in pursuit saw a strange light emanating from the ground and discovering their sacred prize, founded a church here in recognition of the miracle.QK‑9, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca.

SKAŁKA

14 PLAC WOLNICA

Arriving on Plac Wolnica today, it’s hard to imagine that this square was once equal in size and stature to Kraków’s Rynek Główny. When laid out as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek Kazimierski) upon the town’s establishment in 1335, this space measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter on each side than Rynek Główny) making it the second largest market square in Poland, if not Europe. It was here that all the administrative and judicial authorities of Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco to salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace it once was, today’s Plac Wolnica covers only a small fragment of the square’s original size. Fortunately the Town Hall which stood at its very centre has managed to survive. Falling into ruin after Kazimierz’s incorporation into Kraków in 1802, the Town Hall was taken over by local Jewish authorities who renovated it into its present neo-Renaissance style in the late 19th century. A curious plaque on the building commemorates the arrival of the Jews to Poland in the Middle Ages, and since WWII the Town Hall has housed the Ethnographic Museum (open 10:00 - 19:00; closed Mon. Admission 13/7zł, Sun free). Perhaps ironically given its former status, urban revitalisation was slower to reach Plac Wolnica than the once predominantly Jewish neighbourhoods around Plac Nowy, but the square has caught up. Hosting an increasing number of cultural events, and with cafes and restaurants having sprouted up all around its edges, this historic square has re-earned a rightful place on any tour of the district. A trip from here down ulica Mostowa will lead you straight to the Bernatek footbridge into Podgórze (p.50).QK‑9.

SKAŁKA & THE PAULINE MONASTERY This gorgeous riverside sanctuary is one of the most important religious sites in Poland. It was here that the Bishop of Kraków, Saint Stanisław of Szczepanów, was beheaded on the order of King Bolesław II; soon after, the king was exiled and the royal family fell under a curse. To appease the spirit of the wronged bishop, the family rebuilt this church and made annual pilgrimages here from Wawel to atone for the murder - a tradition which continues to this day each May 8th. Since 1472 a monastic order of Pauline Fathers has resided at Skałka, and in the 18th century the church received a Baroque refurb, which endures to this day. Stanisław was canonised in 1253, becoming the patron saint not only of Kraków, but of Poland. Inside an altar marks the place where he was killed and includes the wood stump upon which he is said to have been quartered. The pool where his remains were thrown still stands outside the church, elegantly adorned with a 17th century sculpture of the saint, and its waters are said to have healing properties. In 2008, the ‘Three Millennia Altar’ was built in the courtyard of the church, which features four-metre monuments of St. Stanisław, St. John Paul II, St. Faustyna, St. Jadwiga, St. Adalbert, St. Jan Kanty, and Abbot Augustyn Kordecki. The crypt at Skałka (open by prior arrangement from Dec-Feb) is also a national pantheon for distinguished Poles, and includes the remains of writer Czesław Miłosz, painters Stanisław Wyspiański and Jacek Malczewski, among others.QI‑9, ul. Skałeczna 15, tel. (+48) 12 421 72 44, www.skalka.paulini.pl. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sun 07:00 - 20:00. No visiting during mass please.

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Podgórze

Explore what lies beyond the river in Podgórze… | © Artur Bociarski, AdobeStock

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Podgórze Just south across the river from Kazimierz, lies Podgórze - a large district rich in natural beauty, tragic history and unusual attractions. The name means ‘foothills,’ and its unique geography makes it one of Krakow’s greenest districts and most exciting to explore, thanks to wooded hills, limestone cliffs and ridges that offer panoramic views of the city centre. It is this same sinister geography, however, which resulted in Podgórze being the site of the city’s greatest human tragedy. The Nazis saw its natural placement between the river and the cliffs of Krzemionki as the ideal place for establishing a prison district, and in March of 1941 Kraków’s Jewish population was marched into the centre of Podgórze and walled off in what became known as the Kraków Ghetto (p.52). Liquidated two years later, the majority of the Ghetto’s residents were murdered inside, while others met death in the nearby Płaszów concentration camp (p.57), or in the gas chambers of Auschwitz (p.76) and Bełżec. Traces of the Ghetto (p.53) are still visible today, and Podgórze’s wartime history and connections to Oskar Schindler remain what people most associate with the district. However, Podgórze has a long history which dates back over 10,000 years ago to the city’s founding myth. Legend explains Podgórze’s Krakus Mound (p.57) as the burial place of the city’s first ruler, and scientific studies have proven it to be Kraków’s most ancient structure dating back to the Iron Age. Podgórze also has a proud tradition of independence, having been granted the rights of a free city in 1784 by the Austrian Emperor Joseph II. Incorporated into greater Kraków in 1915, the district proudly reasserted its independence when on October 31st, 1918 local militants led by Antoni Stawarz seized control of the district from the Austrian Army in what is regarded as the first the action of the Second Republic of Poland following WWI. Although slow to develop in the years after the fall of communism, the opening of the world-class Schindler’s Factory Museum (p.55) in 2010 not only helped the city come to terms with the ghosts of the Holocaust, it also established Podgórze as a bona fide destination for tourists. The construction of the Bernatek footbridge soon afterwards opened the floodgates even further, creating a direct link from Plac Wolnica (p.49) to Rynek Podgórski (p.52) and leading to a burst of cafes and restaurants on the other side of the river. Today Podgórze is accepted as an obligatory part of the Kraków tourist trail, but still retains an evocative atmosphere of anguish and independence that sets it apart from Kraków’s other neighbourhoods. To get the most out of it, make time to explore its mysterious, lesser-known landmarks in addition to its marquee museums.

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BERNATEK FOOTBRIDGE

Opened in 2010, the Father Bernatek Footbridge straddles the Wisła River linking the districts of Kazimierz and Podgórze. With a twin walkway design by local architect Andrzej Getter, the 130m-long structure exclusively accommodates pedestrians and cyclists and has become beloved for its convenience and aesthetic appeal. The bridge has also played a key role in the revitalisation of the route from Plac Wolnica to Rynek Podgórski, which is now perfect for a pub crawl or a romantic stroll. It’s here, after all, that couples have adopted the tradition of attaching padlocks engraved with their names, and then throwing the keys into the river (while the rest of us throw up in our mouths), to prove the permanence of their love. Since 2016, the bridge has been adorned with nine acrobatic, gravity-defying sculptures by Jerzy Kędziora, which we hope stay there forever.QK‑9.

OLD PODGÓRZE Begin by crossing over the picturesque Bernatek footbridge (p.51) and enjoy the neighbourhood atmosphere of the cafes, ice cream parlours and restaurants immediately along ul. Brodzińskiego en route to Rynek Podgórski (p.52) to see the stunning St. Joseph’s Church. Next work your way to Podgórze’s other main square - Plac Bohaterów Getta, today a memorial for the victims of the Ghetto. Ulica Jozefińska will not only lead you that way, but also still possesses a certain aura connected to those times; keep your eyes peeled for plaques describing the role of several of the buildings during the time of the Ghetto, and also an enormous mural dedicated to local scifi author Stanisław Lem. For those that don’t have the strength for the 3hr undertaking that is the Schindler’s Factory Museum (or Auschwitz for that matter), the Eagle Pharmacy (p.53) on Plac Bohaterów Getta provides a manageable (but just as moving) alternative, particularly for those with an interest in the wartime experience of the city’s Jewish community; if you’re more of a general WWII buff, you’ll probably prefer the larger scope of Schindler’s Factory. Head to the latter via the Plac Bohaterów Getta underpass and then down ul. Kącik, or make a detour to see a stretch of the original Ghetto Wall (p.53) still standing on ul. Lwowska. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Podgórze THE JEWISH GHETTO Before World War II Kraków was an important cultural centre for approximately 65,000 Jews – one quarter of the city’s total population. Following German occupation in September 1939, persecution of the Jewish community began almost immediately as their liberties were systematically restricted leading up to the Nazi order in April 1940 to turn Kraków into a “Jew-free city,” after which more than 50,000 Jews were forcibly deported to labour camps in the east. In March 1941 the Nazi government decreed the establishment of a new ‘Jewish Housing District’ on the right bank of the Wisła River in Podgórze. The ‘Kraków Ghetto’ initially comprised an approximately 20 hectare (50 acre) space of some 320 mostly one- and two-story buildings in Podgórze’s historic centre, surrounded by a 3 metre high wall (remnants of which can still be seen today). 3,000 residents were removed from the area, replaced by some 16,000 Jews whose property and possessions were confiscated with the exception of what they could carry. Thousands of unregistered Jews also entered seeking protection, and in October 1941 a further 6,000 Jews from around Małopolska were forced into the ghetto, bringing its total population to about 24,000, with an average living space of less than 2 metres per person. Following the Wannsee Conference in January 1942, the Nazis began to initiate ‘The Final Solution’ – Hitler’s systematic plan for the annihilation of European Jewry. From late May 1942 brutal round-ups became a regular occurrence in the ghetto with residents shot in the streets and marched under gunpoint from Plac Zgody (today ‘Plac Bohaterów Getta,’ p.53) into cattle cars at the Płaszów train station, most of which were bound for the death camp in Bełżec. The territory of the ghetto was gradually reduced by authorities, as those ablebodied enough were commuted daily to work on the construction of the nearby KL Płaszów labour camp. As soon as enough barracks had been built, 6,000 Jews still deemed ‘productive’ by the Nazis were moved to KL Płaszów permanently, and the order for the final liquidation of the Kraków Ghetto was given. March 14th 1943 was the bloodiest day in Podgórze’s history as German troops attempted to herd the remaining residents into transports as chaos reigned. Estimates are that as many as 2,000 people were killed in the streets, and 3,000 left via cattle car directly to the gas chambers in Auschwitz. The Kraków Ghetto disappeared essentially two years after its establishment and the KL Płaszów Concentration Camp was born (read more: iyp.me/plaszow). To learn more about Kraków’s Jewish Ghetto, read our extensive online feature at iyp.me/krakowghetto, and visit the Eagle Pharmacy museum (p.53). 52 Kraków In Your Pocket

RYNEK PODGÓRSKI This handsome triangular plot was once the official main market ‘square’ of the Free City of Podgórze, until the independent city was absorbed into Kraków in 1915. The square was laid out in the 18th century at the foot of Lasota Hill, where roads leading to Kraków, Kalwaria, and Wieliczka intersected. Once a lively marketplace frequented by merchants from regional cities and more distant parts of Austria-Hungary, the Rynek had to say goodbye to commerce when a tram line was built in the district in 1917 (oh, modernity) with a turning loop that took up most of the trading space. Though the loop was eventually moved to a less cumbersome spot, the markets never resumed, and today the quiet square is mostly lined with residential buildings, save for the iconic neo-Gothic St. Joseph’s Church dominating the south end, and two former Town Halls - the ‘Under the White Eagle’ manor at no. 14 (early 19th century to 1854), and the younger, stately building at no. 1 (1854-1915, now the Kraków City Council Department of Architecture). It was beside the latter that a main gate into the Jewish Ghetto stood on ul. Limanowskiego during WWII (L-10). Also of note is the small 18th-century manor house ‘Under the Black Eagle’ (no. 13), a former inn where Chopin once spent a night. QK/L‑10, Rynek Podgórski.

ST. JOSEPH’S CHURCH Presiding over the heart of historic Podgórze on the south side of the district’s main square, this unmissable neogothic juggernaut was built between 1905-09 on the design of Jan Sas-Zubrzycki. Dominated by an 80 metre clock tower, elaborate masonry dressing, gargoyles and sculptures of saints, St. Joseph’s slender, yet imposing brick facade rates among the most beautiful in Kraków and is gorgeously illuminated at night. The interior is no less beautiful and the area surrounding the church has been turned into a small landscape park featuring benches and tables, a play area for young children, and the 1832 belfry - all that remains of the original temple.QL‑10, ul. Zamojskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12 656 17 56, www.jozef. diecezja.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:30; Sun 13:00 - 17:30. No visiting during mass please.

Podgórze PLAC BOHATERÓW GETTA First plotted out in 1836, this public square just across the river from the Powstańców Śląskich bridge has had a turbulent history, with turns as a marketplace, horse stable, execution site, taxi rank and bus terminal over the years. During the time of the Kraków Ghetto it was at once the source of the residents’ greatest relief and also the scene of their greatest horrors and humiliation. As the ghetto’s largest open space, Plac Zgody was a place for people to socialise, relax and escape the oppressive overcrowding of the tenements. It was also the site of families being torn apart, mass deportations to the death camps, beatings and executions. Following deportations and the final liquidation of the ghetto, Plac Zgody was strewn with furniture, clothes, luggage and other belongings that the victims had been forced to abandon - this image would later inspire the redesign of the square. Though after the war the name of Plac Zgody was changed to Plac Bohaterów Getta (Ghetto Heroes Square) and a small monument was erected, the space’s historical significance never felt more pertinent than its post-war use as a public toilet or parking lot. Finally, after decades of neglect, Plac Bohaterów Getta was renovated in 2005, sparking significant controversy over the design. Laid out with 70 large well-spaced metal chairs meant to symbolise departure, as well as subsequent absence, the entire square has essentially been turned into an odd, but iconic memorial to the victims of the Kraków Ghetto. A place for candles and reflection was created in the former German guardhouse at the north end of the square, however the gesture rings hollow considering the space is always locked.QL‑9. EAGLE PHARMACY When the Nazis created the Jewish ghetto in Podgórze in 1941, this pharmacy and its Polish owner Tadeusz Pankiewicz found themselves at the very heart of it. Deciding to stay, Pankiewicz and his staff were the only Poles allowed to live and work in the ghetto and over the two years of the ghetto’s existence, their pharmacy became an important centre of social life, resource for acquiring food, medicine and falsified documents and a safehouse for avoiding deportations. Pankiewicz (recognised today as ‘Righteous Among the Nations’) and his staff risked their lives in many clandestine operations while bearing witness to tragedy through the windows of the pharmacy as the ghetto and its 15,000 inhabitants were ultimately ‘liquidated.’ Today the building is a museum, recreated to look as it did during Nazi occupation, which heartrendingly describes life in the Kraków Ghetto via first-hand testimonials and hands-on displays that create a very intimate visiting experience. Though only 5 rooms, set aside at least an hour for visiting this excellent museum. QL‑10, Pl. Bohaterów Getta 18, tel. (+48) 12 656 56 25, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00, Closed 2nd Tue of every month. Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission 11/9zł, family ticket 20zł. Mon free. Y

GHETTO WALL FRAGMENTS

UL. LWOWSKA 25-29 In 1983 a commemorative plaque was added to this prominent 12m stretch of the original ghetto wall, which reads in Hebrew and Polish: “Here they lived, suffered and died at the hands of the German torturers. From here they began their final journey to the death camps.”QM‑10. UL. LIMANOWSKIEGO 62 An even longer and arguably more evocative section of the original ghetto wall can be seen in the playground behind the primary school at ul. Limanowskiego 60/62. Those looking to continue their creepy tour of the area should climb the steep trail leading from the back of the playground straight up to the Old Podgórze Cemetery, to the right from which is the abandoned Fort Benedict.QM‑11. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Podgórze EAT & DRINK

ZABŁOCIE

The range of places to eat in Podgórze has exploded in recent years, such that you’ll no longer struggle to find one, but here are some places worth seeking out that you might not otherwise find on your own. BAL If you’re feeling a bit self-conscious about being a tourist after visiting MOCAK or Schindler’s Factory, Bal will restore your street cred. Well hidden in a courtyard behind MOCAK, this popular cafe and lunch spot was on the first wave of pioneers to pitch their tents in this part of town. A hip hangout with high ceilings and exposed bulbs, wooden tables and white walls, stop in for breakfast sets (served until 11:30; all day on weekends), daily lunch specials, sandwiches, pasta, great coffee and cocktails. Essentially the antithesis of everything in the Old Town, with Bal Kraków’s young creatives are marking their territory.QN‑9, ul. Ślusarska 9 (entrance from ul. Przemysłowa), tel. (+48) 734 41 17 33. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Mon 08:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. T6W EMALIA ZABŁOCIE Just a stone’s throw from Oskar Schindler’s Enamel Factory, and directly next door to the villa Schindler once lived in (ul. Romanowicza 7), Emalia (Enamel) pays homage to the area’s industrial history in name and design with its faux-industrial fittings and enamelled accents. This pleasingly casual catch-all restaurant offers a concise seasonal menu of attractive salads, burgers and pastas, plus modern takes on Polish dishes like rabbit dumplings. The quality of the food makes it worth seeking out, especially if sightseeing in the area, just be aware that you might not find a table during the weekday lunch rush.QN‑9, ul. Romanowicza 5/9, tel. (+48) 578 36 43 76, www.emaliazablocie.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. €€. TU6W MANZANA Hidden in what appears at first scan to be a random parking lot, this is Kraków’s most authentic Mexican eatery by miles, even though the menu actually skews more Tex-Mex. The taquitos and quesadillas are delish, the nachos are enormous (the smaller size is plenty), or share the Manzana platter with your partner. Though prices are pegged a bit high, the atmosphere in the vast interior is relaxed, making Manzana the kind of place you’d want to frequent often - which it would appear many American ex-pat families do. With daily specials - including the obligatory Taco Tuesday, great food, and the largest selection of tequilas in town...you know, we’re really quite fond of this place. QL‑10, ul. Krakusa 11, tel. (+48) 514 78 68 13, www. manzanarestaurant.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. €€. TW 54 Kraków In Your Pocket

Once you’ve crossed under the train tracks you’ve entered Zabłocie. Historically an industrial area that arose in the late 19th and early 20th century, many of Zabłocie’s state-run factories closed or stagnated after 1989. Today this is the city’s most rapidly developing neighbourhood as old factories and warehouses are being torn down and replaced with modern apartment complexes and office buildings, or in some cases converted into cultural venues and restaurants, as is the case along ul. Lipowa. Advertised as artsy and cutting-edge (by the realtors of its high-rent apartment buildings), in reality Zablocie is quickly becoming little more than a transit stop for tourists, and an overpopulated housing development full of young families lamenting the lack of trees in the neighbourhood. In addition to Schindler’s Factory, MOCAK is very much worth a visit, but if you aren’t interested in these museums there’s not much reason to investigate the area. LIPOWA 3 GLASS & CERAMICS CENTRE Located directly across from MOCAK, this building has been a glassworks since 1931 and actually flourished during the PRL-era when up to 500 people were employed here under the auspices of not only glass bottle production but also glass art, scientific research and industrial design. During the 1970s ‘Cracovian glass’ achieved international renown for its bold experimentation with form, colour and texture, and today Lipowa 3 is still used for national glass research and production. The idea of an educational museum showcasing Polish glass and glassblowing technology has actually existed since 1972, and recent investment has now made those collections open to the public. The permanent exhibit includes bilingual displays of historical glass tools and antique glassware, but the highlight is the impressive ‘Cracovian Glass Art Collection’ of contemporary coloured glassware produced here between 1931 and 1998. Live glass-blowing demonstrations occur hourly until December 18th, and the ground floor includes a shop and a free gallery for rotating exhibits of contemporary glass art.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 3, tel. (+48) 12 423 67 90, www. lipowa3.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Admission 8/6zł. Guided tours available in English by prior arrangement, 80zł.

Podgórze MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART (MOCAK) Opened in 2011, Krakow’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK) does not disappoint, capably holding its own with comparable international art institutions. Tucked behind Schindler’s Factory, the building alone will impress with its avant-garde styling and ultra-modern layout. The museum boasts a large and fine permanent collection of modern art highlighting both Polish and international artists, plus a new permanent exhibition space inspired by Warhol’s cult NYC studio known as The Factory. There are also always several provocative temporary exhibitions, and a large cafe and bookshop. Despite the relatively late closing hour, make sure to leave yourself plenty of time to enjoy all the museum has to offer.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 01, www.mocak.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 14/7zł, Tue free. Guided tours (115zł + admission) in English and French available, but must be arranged by phone in advance. UY

MOCAK

KRZEMIONKI In contrast, if you’re looking for more of an active outdoor adventure exploring Kraków’s less tourist-trampled territory, Krzemionki is for you. This scenic upshot of limestone cliffs rises above Old Podgórze and extends south all the way past Krakus Mound to the haunting grounds of Płaszów - the former Nazi concentration camp (more on Płaszów at iyp.me/plaszow). One could enjoy an entire day just exploring the breadth of Bednarski Park, but for intrepid tourists we highly recommend trekking to the area of Lasota Hill (p.56) and then beyond it to Krakus Mound (p.57) and Liban Quarry (p.56). A bike won’t help you here; ditch it on ul. Rękawka and take the rocky dirt trail just past ul. Krakusa, which leads up into the woods. This will lead you straight to Lasota Hill and to complete your urban hike all the way to Krakus Mound and back you’ll probably want to set aside a couple hours. Packing some food would be wise since there won’t be any opportunities to buy anything en route. And if you really do it right you’ll be enjoying panoramic views of the sun setting behind the Old Town while cracking a victory beer atop the Mound. Congrats, and cheers.

SCHINDLER’S FACTORY

In 2010, the Oskar Schindler Enamelled Goods Factory (to give it its full name) re-opened to the public as a world-class museum. The story of Oskar Schindler and his employees is one which has been well-known since Steven Spielberg’s film Schindler’s List (which was shot almost entirely in Kraków) brought it to audiences across the world in 1993, and while that story is covered in detail on the original site where many events took place, the museum actually casts the city of Kraków in the main role of its permanent exhibition titled, ‘Kraków During Nazi Occupation 1939-1945.’ Individual histories of Kraków’s wartime inhabitants guide visitors through the exhibit which covers the war of 1939, everyday life under occupation, the fate of the Jews, the city’s underground resistance and more, using vast archival documents, photos, radio and film recordings, period artefacts and dynamic multimedia installations. Other exhibits change regularly (currently about the underground activities of the Polish Home Army), while a separate section of the original factory is reserved for film screenings, lectures and other events. A must-visit, Schindler’s Factory is one of the most fascinating museums in the entire country and we recommend you reserve at least two hours if you want to see everything. Tickets can be bought online three or more days in advance (www.bilety.mhk.pl), which we strongly recommend, because visitor numbers are controlled and you could be disappointed if the museum is too busy. In fact, groups over 15 people are obliged book in advance. To get to the museum take a tram to Pl. Bohaterów Getta (L-9) and it’s a 5-10 minute walk down ul. Kącik, under the train overpass, onto ul. Lipowa and you’re there.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 17, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 1.5hrs before closing. Admission 24/18zł, family ticket 55zł. Mon free for permanent exhibitions. Y krakow.inyourpocket.com

Podgórze LIBAN QUARRY

One of the creepiest, most forgotten places in Kraków, the Liban Quarry should first and foremost be a place of remembrance for the victims of the Nazi labour camp that operated here during WWII. That said, the site which largely lies in overgrown abandon today - offers adventurous visitors some intriguing opportunities for exploration, photography, and personal reflection. Left to slowly evolve into a nature sanctuary for local waterfowl, pheasants, birds of prey and various other creatures, the quarry’s towering limestone cliffs, ponds and dense vegetation are as breath-taking as the rusting refinery equipment, fence posts, gravestones and tangles of barbed wire that can still be found amongst the brush here. The Jewish limestone company ‘Liban and Ehrenpreis’ established a quarry here in 1873, and by the end of the 19th century a complex of buildings had been established inside and a railway line had been laid. During Nazi occupation, however, Liban was seized and set-up as a cruel penal camp where 800 Poles were forced to perform gruelling slave labour from 1942 to 1944. A small, discreet and easily overlooked memorial for 21 inmates executed during the liquidation of the camp lies beside the cliffside at the Za Torem end of the site. In 1993 Steven Spielberg used Liban as the set of all the scenes from Schindler’s List that take place in the Płaszów concentration camp. During filming 34 barracks and watchtowers were set-up around the quarry, and though most of the set was subsequently removed, some traces remain confusingly mixed with the genuine historical leftovers from the war, making it unclear just how uncomfortable you should feel as you walk amongst the many gallows-like fence posts strung with barbed wire and rusty machinery. Certainly, the most disturbing site is the central pathway paved with Jewish headstones; we can put you at ease by assuring you it is not genuine. An incredibly evocative, yet peaceful and beautiful site, enter the quarry at your own risk by following a trail from Krakus Mound toward Podgórze Cemetery along the rim of and into the quarry, or try your luck from ul. Za Torem; though there is nothing unlawful about being in the quarry, city employees of the Housing Office buildings at the quarry’s entrance have been known to deny entry or ask people to leave.QM‑12, ul. Za Torem. 56 Kraków In Your Pocket

LASOTA HILL Lasota Hill refers to the section of Krzemionki east of Bednarski Park, and home to Podgórze’s richest residences along the picturesque villa-lined lanes of ul. Parkowa, Plac Lasota and ul. Stawarza. But follow ul. Stawarza to its end or alternatively venture up any of the forrested and slightly foreboding trails off of ul. Rękawka (our preferred route) and you’ll soon inexplicably end up at the top of the hill in a strange meadow. Once a popular site for pagan worship, St. Benedict’s Church was built here in the 11th century specifically to put a frowny face on such practices. One of the city’s oldest churches, it is certainly the smallest (open in summer only). The second primary point of interest here is Fort Benedict, the only surviving fortress of three that were built in Podgórze in the mid-19th century; in fact this is one of the few citadels of the ‘Maximillion Tower’ type surviving anywhere. An imposing brick monolith in the shape of a 16-sided polygon, today the fort stands abandoned with the city unable to decide what to do with it. Though you can certainly scramble through the fence to explore it up close, we’re sure you’ll find (like we did) that this fort is indeed impenetrable. It was upon this meadow on Lasota Hill that one of the most powerful scenes from Schindler’s List was filmed, in which Schindler (played by Liam Neeson) and his wife are on horseback when they stop on Lasota Hill and witness the horror taking place during a Nazi round-up in the Jewish Ghetto below. This scene serves as a turning point in the film for Schindler’s character as he focuses in on the ‘girl in the red coat’ - the otherwise black and white film’s most powerful visual device. Though in summer the trees are a bit too lush, in winter Lasota Hill indeed offers views of Podgórze, Kazimierz and the Old Town from its ridge. Look away from the centre and you’ll see Krakus Mound looming in the distance; actually closer than it looks, you’re only about a 20min walk away and the effort is worth it. Alternatively, follow the trail east between the church and fortress and you’ll find the Old Podgórze Cemetery across from the playground of a public school on whose property a segment of the original Ghetto Wall still stands.QM‑10/11.

Fort Benedict

Podgórze KRAKUS MOUND The oldest structure in Kraków, Krakus Mound (Kopiec Krakusa) is one of two prehistoric monumental mounds in the city and is also its highest point, providing incredible panoramic views from its 16m summit. The site of pagan rituals for centuries, the mound retains an ancient, evocative atmosphere amplified by the surroundings of the cliffs of Krzemionki, the green rolling fields of Płaszów, the grim Liban quarry and the Podgórze cemetery. With incredible views of the city, Krakus Mound lies at the centre of one of Kraków’s least explored and most captivating areas and should be visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding detour from the beaten path. It can be approached most easily from the ‘Powstańców Wielkopolskich’ tram stop via ul. Robotnicza to the steps of al. Pod Kopcem (M-11), or by following ul. Dembowskiego (L/M-11) to the pedestrian bridge over al. Powstańców Wielkopolskich to the base of the mound.

Krakus Mound

The result of great human effort and innovative engineering, Krakus Mound has long been a source of legend and mystery. Connected with the legend of Kraków’s mythical founder, King Krak or Krakus, the mound is said to have been constructed in honour of his death when noblemen and peasants filled their sleeves with sand and dirt, bringing it to this site in order to create an artificial mountain that would rule over the rest of the landscape. In the interwar period, extensive archaeological studies were undertaken to try to date the mound and verify if Krak was indeed buried beneath it. Though no grave was found, 8th century artefacts were uncovered, and it was determined that a massive 300-year-old oak, likely cut down in the 11th century when St. Benedict’s Church (M-10) was built nearby, once stood atop the mound. Originally four smaller mounds surrounded the base of Krakus mound, however these were levelled in the mid-19th century during the construction of the city’s first fortress which surrounded the area with a wall embankment and a moat (later levelled in 1954). The legend of Krakus Mound inspired the modern creation of burial mounds for Kościuszko and Piłsudski and today it remains one of Poland’s greatest archaeological mysteries.QM‑12, above ul. Maryewskiego.

PŁASZÓW

While hundreds of tourists use Kraków as a jumpingoff point for visiting Auschwitz, few realise that Kraków actually had a concentration camp in its own backyard. Deep in Podgórze, a large the tract of land behind Krakus Mound goes undeveloped and largely unvisited, despite being in one of the city’s most desirable commercial and residential areas. This is the former site of ‘Konzentrationslager Plaszow bei Krakau’ - the Nazi German concentration camp in Płaszów, today a wild, uneven expanse of dirt, grass, weeds and stone, which until recently gave little indication of its own existence, let alone the story of its wartime history. If you think you aren’t familiar with this story, you probably are. It was here that many of the real-life events Steven Spielberg’s blockbuster film Schindler’s List took place. While Schindler’s factory opened to the public as a museum in 2010 (p.55), the site of the former Płaszów concentration camp has remained largely in the same state it was left by the Nazis when they abandoned it over 70 years ago. In contrast to Auschwitz there are no professional tour guides here, few informative displays and little suggestion for how to experience the space. Somewhere in the neighbourhood of 150,000 prisoners were interred in this 80 hectare prison camp, and the number who perished here is actually impossible to know, but it is certainly in the tens of thousands. Open to the public but a challenge to access, those intrepid enough to make the journey will still find a few war-era buildings, several memorials and some scattered Jewish tombstones. Since November 2017 an outdoor exhibit of archival photographs with brief historical information now also offers visitors some clues about the camp’s layout. More of a pilgrimage than a destination, Płaszów rewards those who walk its obscure paths with the opportunity to engage the past without any pressure or pretence. This is the most horrific place in Kraków; and the most peaceful. More than we can possibly cover here, to learn about Płaszów’s history, what to see and how to get there, read our exhaustive online feature.Qiyp.me/plaszow. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Nowa Huta

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Nowa Huta The bastard child of a devastated post WWII Poland, the huge Socialist Realist suburb of Nowa Huta is the direct antithesis of everything cuddly Kraków is. Gargoyles and tourists? Not here. The Orwellian settlement of Nowa Huta is one of only two entirely pre-planned socialist realist cities ever built (the other being Magnitogorsk in Russia’s Ural Mountains), and one of the finest examples of deliberate social engineering in the world. Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed up a huge swathe of ideal agricultural land, and the ancient village of Kościelniki (as well as parts of Mogiła and Krzesławice) in an attempt to create an in-your-face proletarian opponent to intellectual, artsy-fartsy, fairytale Kraków. The decision to build NH was rubber stamped on May 17, 1947 and over the next few years construction of a model city for 100,000 people sprung up at breakneck speed. Built to impress, Nowa Huta featured wide, treelined avenues, parks, lakes and the officially sanctioned architectural style of the time - Socialist Realism. Nowa Huta’s architects strove to construct the ideal city, with ironic inspiration coming from the neighbourhood blocks built in 1920s New York (that despicable western metropolis). Careful planning was key, and the suburb was designed with ‘efficient mutual control’ in mind: wide streets would prevent the spread of fire and the profusion of trees would easily soak up a nuclear blast, while the layout was such that the city could easily be turned into a fortress if it came under attack. Work on the first block of flats began on June 23, 1949, and it was a massive task, with volunteer workers flocking from across Poland to take part in this bold project. Feats of personal sacrifice were rife and encouraged with one man, Piotr Ożański, publicly credited with laying an stupendous 33,000 bricks in one single day. For the workers life was tough; many were still sleeping in tents when the first winter arrived, legends abound of bodies buried in the foundations, and crime was rampant. Somewhat sadly perhaps, the Utopian dream that was Nowa Huta was never fully realised. A fearsome Town Hall in the style of the renaissance halls found across Poland was never built, nor was the theatre building across from it and the ornamental architectural details planned for the monumental buildings of Plac Centralny were never added. However what was completed is very much worth the trip for intrepid tourists willing to teleport themselves into a completely different reality far from the cobbled kitsch of Kraków; it’s as easy as a tramride.

GETTING TO NOWA HUTA Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram network. Tram 4 from ‘Teatr Słowackiego’ (near the train station, K-4) goes straight to Plac Centralny (R-3) in about 20mins.

‘Włodzimierz Lenin’ striding across Plac Centralny in the 1970s.

WHAT TO SEE Jump off a tram at the ‘Plac Centralny’ stop, and find yourself at the very nucleus of Nowa Huta. From 1973 to 1989 an enormous monument of Vladimir Lenin towered over the citizens of Nowa Huta at the north end of Plac Centralny. Dismantling it after the fall of communism was an important act of symbolism (cheered by thousands of spectators), which later turned into almost comic irony when the square he once stood on - and which was named for a time after Joseph Stalin - was officially re-designated ‘Ronald Reagan Square’ in 2004. Speak to any local, however, and you’ll still hear it referred to as Plac Centralny (p.61). A walk around Plac Centralny’s fearsome social realist arcades brings you to several minor points of interest, including the iconic Markiza neon sign, and Cepelix folk art shop. Also within easy walking distance is the former Świtowid cinema - another social realist stalwart that today houses the Museum of Poland Under the Communist Regime (p.60), and the Nowa Huta Cultural Centre - home to a fantastic exhibit of grotesque, apocalyptic paintings by 20th century Polish artist Zdzisław Beksiński (p.60). Both are worth visits before wandering back to Plac Centralny and down Roses Avenue to the Nowa Huta Museum (p.60). Although Plac Centralny and Roses Avenue serve as the district’s focal point, it’s the Steelworks (ul. Ujasek 1) that Nowa Huta is famous for, not to mention named after. Employing 40,000 people in its heyday the ‘Lenin Steelworks’ produced seven million tonnes of steel annually, and boasted the largest blast furnace in Europe. If you take the trouble to get to the main entrance gate, you’ll see that it’s flanked by two austere concrete administrative buildings which aim for Renaissance grandeur, but actually achieve the pinnacle of socialist realist architecture in PL. Enjoy the view because you’ll go no further; the steelworks is sadly off limits to tourists. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Nowa Huta

The dystopian surrealist visions of Zdzisław Beksiński.

ZDZISŁAW BEKSIŃSKI GALLERY One of PL’s most internationally recognised and controversial 20th century painters, Zdzisław Beksiński is known for his large, almost luminous, and emotionally-charged canvases depicting grotesque figures and apocalyptic landscapes. The themes of war, ruin, decay and deformity are prevalent throughout his work, which has been described as both ‘fantastical realism’ and ‘dystopian surrealism;’ we’d call it something of a cross between H.R. Giger and Francis Bacon. One of the most worthwhile things to see in Nowa Huta, this stunning collection of 50 paintings in the Nowa Huta Cultural Centre features some of his most definitive work, perfectly presented in a dark room on black walls, where the only light is directly on the art itself. If you find yourself completely fascinated by Beksiński, his life and family are the subject of the excellent 2016 film Ostatnia Rodzina (The Last Family).QR‑3, Al. Jana Pawła II 232, tel. (+48) 12 644 02 66, www.nck.krakow.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/8zł.

Kino Światowid, today home to the PRL Museum.

60 Kraków In Your Pocket

MUSEUM OF POLAND UNDER THE COMMUNIST REGIME (PRL MUSEUM) This museum inside the former Kino Światowid - a local landmark in socialist realism architecture, completed in 1957 - is dedicated to Polish history between the years 1944 and 1989, telling the story of everyday life during the country’s communist era. Temporary exhibits occupy the ground floor and upper level - currently an excellent photography exhibit portraying everyday life in the 1970s, and another about the 1988 strike at Nowa Huta’s Lenin Steelworks. The former cinema’s cellars hold the intriguing exhibit ‘Nuclear Threat: Shelters of Nowa Huta;’ there are actually some 250 shelters beneath NH - enough to accommodate every resident in the district - and this is the largest in Kraków. Well-translated throughout, here you’ll learn about the very organised and intricate plan Poland had for dealing with a potential nuclear attack during the Cold War, and the role every citizen would play in such an event. If you’re from the West, it’s akin to mild culture shock, and the space itself is impressively vast. Within easy walking distance from Plac Centralny, if you’ve made the trip out to NH there’s no reason not to make a stop here. QS‑3, Os. Centrum E 1, tel. (+48) 12 446 78 21, www.mprl. pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission 10/8zł. Tue free. NOWA HUTA MUSEUM This small museum features sweet neon signage and a series of changing exhibitions relating to the life and culture of the district. A requisite stop for anyone in the area, here you can also pick up plenty of information about NH, and they arrange sightseeing tours of the district as well.QS‑2, Os. Słoneczne 16 (Nowa Huta), tel. (+48) 12 425 97 75, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł, family ticket also available. Tue free. UY

Nowa Huta PLAC CENTRALNY (CENTRAL SQUARE) The centre of Nowa Huta’s architectural layout, Plac Centralny (Central Square) is the district’s primary landmark and one of socialist realism’s highest architectural achievements, despite never being completed. The two main structures of the square were to be the towering Town Hall (resembling a mini PKiN) at the northern end and a colonnaded theatre at the southern end, with an obelisk in between; though the designs were in place, none saw development. Similarly, the grand promenade linking them - Aleja Róż (Roses Avenue, S-1/2) - was never fully realised, and terminates after a mere four blocks, making it a fine example of your typical Stalinist ‘road to nowhere.’ While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings lining the way, you’ll find several curiosities. First and foremost, don’t miss the gorgeously restored ‘Markiza’ neon sign at the corner of os. Centrum A and al. Jana Pawła II (S-3). Though the cake shop it advertised is long gone, the sign stands out as the area’s most nostalgic memento from the PRL era. Perhaps the most timeless shop in Nowa Huta is Cepelix (os. Centrum B bl.1, S-3; open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-13:00, closed Sun). Specialising in Polish folk art and design, this amazing gift shop is like none other thanks to the original 50s interior featuring long chandeliers and a white coffer ceiling covered in colourful hand-painted ceramic plates. The character of this place hasn’t changed a bit and as such it’s a great place to buy sheepskins, lacework, famous Bolesławiec pottery, and even Nowa Huta souvenirs. Nearby is a typical milk bar (bar mleczny), one of the Soviet era worker cafeterias which still thrive in the district. If you think that can’t be topped, only a few doors down Aleja Róż behold the hideously outdated interiors of the famous Stylowa Restaurant - one of the only places to eat in NH that isn’t a milk bar; once one of the most exclusive restaurants in town, this place carries on in the same spirit as the day it opened with an interior that has hardly changed over the years. In between these two throwbacks, however you’ll find Good Lood - Kraków’s best ice cream parlour - a requisite stop and well-earned reward for trekking around Nowa Huta.QR‑3.

POLISH AVIATION MUSEUM

Last surviving aircraft from PL’s Sept. 1939 campaign.

Located on one of the oldest military airfields in Europe, this oft-overlooked, but highly regarded museum holds a premier collection of aircraft, artefacts and exhibits related not only to Polish, but world aviation history and heritage. The new exhibition building is bursting with interactive displays, historic aircraft, plus a cinema, while the original exhibits in the airfield’s numerous hangars are stuffed with old photographs, engines, uniforms and plenty more airplanes, helicopters and gliders, while the yards surrounding them are literally littered Russian-built fighter jets from the days of the Warsaw Pact. While many of the displays are in Polish only, this is still a great outing (Dads love it) that can take the most of a day to explore thoroughly. Located in the no-mans-land between the city centre and Nowa Huta, to get there take tram 52 from ‘Dworzec Główny’ (K-4) to ‘Muzeum Lotnictwa.’QAl. Jana Pawła II 39 (Czyżyny), tel. (+48) 12 642 87 00, www. muzeumlotnictwa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/7zł, family ticket 34zł; Tue free. UY

CRAZY GUIDES

The coffered ceiling in Cepelix.

Specialising in communist-themed tours of Nowa Huta: experience Stalin’s gift to Kraków in a genuine Eastern Bloc Trabant 601 automobile as you zip around the district with young, informative guides. The tour includes Plac Centralny, a stop for food in a milk bar, a propaganda film in communist era apartment, vodka shots in Stylowa restaurant, the gates of the Steelworks and more. Considering the large size and somewhat underwhelming nature of walking around the district on your own, this is the best way to get the most out of a trip to Nowa Huta.QR‑3, tel. (+48) 500 09 12 00, www.crazyguides.com. ‘Communism Tour’ 159zł per person. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Museums

Inside the workshop of the Stained Glass Museum (p.70).

MUSEUMS There’s no better place to learn about Polish history, culture and character than Kraków’s museums, some of which should be on every tourist itinerary. To find out about current temporary exhibits visit our What’s On section (p.16) or use our app (iyp.me/app). Note that Kraków’s former synagogues - which today operate as museums - can be found in the Kazimierz section (p.42), while the extensive exhibits at Wawel can be found beginning on p.38. For a full directory of Museums, visit our website. 19TH CENTURY POLISH ART GALLERY This magnificent and historic exhibition inside the Cloth Hall covers 19th century Polish art and its major trends of portraiture and epic historical painting. Comprising just four rooms, the museum is refreshingly small, giving proper attention to each piece - some of which are enormous, and all of which are gorgeously framed. Almost everything by Jan Matejko here is rightly considered a national treasure, and the collection also includes works by Jacek Malczewski, Józef Chełmoński and Stanisław Witkiewicz, as well as Władysław Podkowiński’s famous ‘Frenzy’ from 1894. Like a small slice of the Louvre in Kraków, but without the crowds, one of the perks of a visit is access to the magnificent balcony overlooking the market square. Recommended. QI‑5, Cloth Hall, Rynek Główny 3, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 00, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł, family ticket 40zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Y 62 Kraków In Your Pocket

ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM Housed in an old monastery, the biggest highlight of the Archaeology Museum may be its beautiful garden (2zł charge if you aren’t visiting the museum) - a great place to relax with fantastic views of Wawel in the distance. As for exhibits, they are a bit dated, but the museum does boast the Zbruch Idol - the only sculpture of a Slavic god in existence, part of an exhibit on the prehistory of Małopolska. Other permanent exhibits include prehistoric pottery, Peruvian artefacts, and ancient Egypt. Additionally, you’ll find an exhibit on the history of the monastery and museum itself (separate ticket required, 4/3zł), plus temporary exhibits.QI‑6, ul. Poselska 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 75 60, www.ma.krakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/7zł. Sun free for permanent exhibitions. N

Frenzy; 19th Century Polish Art Gallery

Museums ARCHDIOCESAN MUSEUM OF CARDINAL KAROL WOJTYŁA John Paul II lived here, twice. Once as Karol Wojtyła, the young priest with a penchant for skiing (his skis are on show), and later as a bishop, in grander, adjacent rooms. The Archdiocesan doubles as a small but well-presented showcase of beautiful sacral art, some dating back to the 13th century. Among the items on display you will find presents to His Holiness from heads-of-state. All very nice, but the exhibition will only hold the attention of true papal enthusiasts, and visitors can expect to be tailed by over-zealous curators. Guided tours (50zł) are available for individuals and groups up to 25 people in English and Polish. A second branch of this museum the Wojtyła Apartment at ul. Tyniecka 10 (G-8) - shows the apartment where the future pope lived with his father in the late 1930s (open Tue-Sun 10:00 - 14:00; free admission).QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 19-21, tel. (+48) 12 421 89 63, www.muzeumkra.diecezja.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł. Family ticket 20zł. NY BISHOP ERAZM CIOŁEK PALACE

This early 14th century palace is one of the most outstanding buildings in Kraków; in fact, at the time it was built, the palace was second in splendour to only Wawel itself. Thoroughly restored, today it is one of the most modern and impressive branches of the Kraków National Museum, housing three permanent exhibitions: Kraków Within Your Reach, Art of Old Poland from the 12th to 18th Centuries, and Orthodox Art of the Old Polish Republic. The first is a basement repository of local architectural sculpture fragments, while the latter two consist almost entirely of sacral art from before the idea of ‘art’ was applied to non-religious subject matter (how many centuries did that take?). Most of it came directly out of Kraków’s own churches or others in the region, and is admittedly superb, if that’s your thing. If not, you’ll likely still find yourself impressed by the surroundings and high-quality displays.QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 17, tel. (+48) 12 433 59 20, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. U

ART GALLERIES

Palace of the Arts

If you’re looking for the best spaces for contemporary art in Poland’s cultural capital, check out the galleries below, but also don’t miss Podgórze’s MOCAK (p.55), or the Zdzisław Beksiński Gallery in Nowa Huta (p.60). BUNKIER SZTUKI GALLERY OF CONTEMPORARY ART One of the few very modern buildings in the Old Town, the concrete carbuncle known as the ‘Art Bunker’ is hands-down Kraków’s best contemporary art gallery. Changing exhibitions are held over three floors, exhibition catalogues are sold in the small mezzanine bookshop and the ground floor Bunkier Cafe (p.88) offers good food and one of the city’s biggest beer terraces.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 3A, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 52, www.bunkier.art.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, family ticket 20zł; Tue free. INTERNATIONAL CULTURAL CENTRE (MCK) Temporary art exhibitions spotlighting foreign visionaries, cities or cultures typically fill this major gallery on the market square.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 25, tel. (+48) 12 424 28 11, www.mck.krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, closed Mon. Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission to the gallery 12/7zł, family ticket available; Tue, Wed from 10:00 - 11:00 1zł. PALACE OF THE ARTS This gorgeous building on Plac Szczepański is the seat of the Friends of the Fine Arts Society - the oldest such organisation in Central Europe, dating back to 1854. Built in 1901, their headquarters was Kraków’s first Art Nouveau building. Gold bas-reliefs by Jacek Malczewski - the famed ‘Father of Polish Symbolism’ - depict the highs and lows of the creative process, busts of Poland’s most famous contributors to the arts fill niches in the facade, and the head of Apollo crowns the entrance. Today the Palace of the Arts remains one of the most prestigious exhibition spaces in town, with regularly changing exhibits of contemporary art.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 66 16, www.palacsztuki.krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission 10/5zł. N krakow.inyourpocket.com

Museums KOŚCIUSZKO MOUND

History produces few men like Tadeusz Kościuszko (1746-1817). Having fought with distinction in the American War of Independence before inspiring a valiant Insurrection against foreign rule in Poland, this relentless freedom-fighter was described by Thomas Jefferson as ‘the purest son of liberty that I have ever known.’ Upon his passing, such was the people’s love that they proposed to honour him with a monument in the tradition of the prehistoric mounds of King Krak (p.57) and Wanda - and to make it the grandest in Kraków. Construction of an artificial burial mound atop Bronisława Hill in Zwierzyniec began with a mass, followed by speeches; artefacts from Kościuszko’s illustrious life were placed, including soil from his many battlefields, before friends, statesmen and foreign dignitaries dumped the first wheelbarrows of dirt. For the next three years people of all ages brought soil from their villages to add to the mound. Though a committee was formed for its oversight, the work was all done voluntarily. Officially completed in November 1823, Kościuszko Mound stands 34m high, 326m above sea level, and on a clear day the Tatra Mountains can be seen from the top. In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities built a brick fortress around the Mound, which they used as a strategic lookout point. The Germans later threatened to level the entire site during WWII as they set about destroying all Polish national symbols (along with 3 million Polish Jews). Though parts of the fortress were destroyed, the complex has been restored and significant engineering improvements have been made to ensure its longevity. Climbing to the peak is tiring work, but the panoramic views are a worthwhile reward. The surrounding fortifications also house two cafes, a radio station, chapel, restaurant, wax museum and several additional historical exhibitions. Admission to all exhibits is included with admission to the Mound. To get there take trams 1 or 6 to ‘Salwator,’ from which it’s a lovely 1.6km walk up ul. Św Bronisława. The walk is all uphill though, so if you’re awaiting a hip replacement you might want to take bus 100 from there to the top instead. Or a cab from the Old Town is about 30zł.QA‑7, Al. Waszyngtona 1, tel. (+48) 12 425 11 16, www. kopieckosciuszki.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:45. From January open 09:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission 14/10zł, family ticket available. Y 64 Kraków In Your Pocket

CRICOTEKA Tadeusz Kantor (1915-1990) was an avant-garde artist, theatre director, set designer and a major figure in 20th century theatre reform, known for his revolutionary theatre productions. In 1980 he created ‘Cricoteka’ as a ‘living archive’ to document the achievements of himself and his theatre company Cricot 2. In 2014, Cricoteka opened its new headquarters here on the site of the former Podgórze power station, with the aim of better presenting his work and its impact on modern art and theatre. The building itself is an apparent homage to his experimental approach, literally hovering above the existing buildings with a bizarre facade of rusted metal and black mirror. Combined with the original buildings, the multifunctional site hosts an exhibition space, archive, theatre hall and bookshop; as a result, a large amount of its programme involves happenings, performances, workshops and other live events (check their website for those). As a museum, it’s difficult to recommend to those who aren’t already familiar with Kantor, or fans of alienating, experimental theatre. Temporary exhibits show art apparently inspired by Kantor’s ideas, while the permanent exhibit shows the evolution of Kantor’s increasingly eccentric career via stage props he created (including lots of creepy mannequins) and video footage. Free tablets with English-language info are available for visitors at the ticket desk. Whether it all resonates is purely a matter of personal taste, as public opinion is notably divided.QL‑9, ul. Nadwiślańska 2, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 70, www.news.cricoteka.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibits free, temporary exhibitions 15/10zł (family ticket available). Tue free. Y EAGLE PHARMACY See p.53.QL‑10, Pl. Bohaterów Getta 18, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00, Closed 2nd Tue of every month. Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission 11/9zł, family ticket 20zł. Mon free. Y ENGINEERING MUSEUM Located inside a late 19th century tram depot you’ll find the large and charming Engineering Museum. Home to multiple permanent and temporary exhibits, what you’ll currently find is a hangar full of historical trams and trolleys; the fun, kid-friendly ‘It’s So Simple’ interactive exhibit full of brainteasers, building blocks and basic mechanics; ‘More Light!’, an exhibition devoted to lightbulbs and street lamps; and the Classics of Technology mini-exhibit series focusing mostly on telecommunication. More fun than it sounds and recommended for families, check their website to see what else is on.QK‑9, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 15, tel. (+48) 12 428 66 44, www.mimk.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Tue 09:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł. Family tickets available. Tue free for permanent exhibitions. UY

Full contents online: krakow.inyourpocket.com

Museums ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM Founded in 1911 inside Kazimierz’s former Town Hall, this often overlooked museum offers wonderful and charming insight into Polish folk culture and rural traditions, including beautiful recreations of 19th-century peasant interiors, folk costumes and instruments, and extraordinary examples of local nativity cribs (‘szopki’). A new exhibit called ‘Od-nowa’ (Anew) focusses on rural rituals of spring in Poland (painted Easter eggs and palms), while ‘Unattainable Earth’ guides visitors through hundreds of works of folk art via the words of Czesław Miłosz (taken from his poem of the same name). With exhibits sufficiently explained in English, those that visit here will be happily rewarded. Dom Esterki - a separate gallery for changing exhibits - can also be found nearby at ul. Krakowska 46.QK‑9, Pl. Wolnica 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 60 23, www.etnomuzeum.eu. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 13/7zł, Sun free for permanent exhibitions. UY

Inside the Europeum

EUROPEUM CENTRE FOR EUROPEAN CULTURE Located in a 17th century granary on formerly-forgotten Sikorski Square, this branch of the National Museum was opened in 2013 and houses the city’s large collection of European painting and sculpture, in addition to hosting lectures, concerts and other events. Displaying Lorenzo Lotto’s 1507 The Adoration of the Infant Jesus - the consensus ‘most-valuable foreign work’ in the possession of Kraków’s National Museum, other highlights include John the Baptist Preaching by Pieter Brueghel the Younger, The Crucifixion by Paolo Veneziano, and more early Renaissance Italian paintings. While we’re happy to see this collection find a permanent home, those who have seen their share of European art museums can probably justify skipping it.QH‑5, Pl. Sikorskiego 6, tel. (+48) 12 433 57 60, www. mnk.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł; family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free for permanent exhibitions. UY GALICIA JEWISH MUSEUM See p.48.QL‑8, ul. Dajwór 18, www.galiciajewishmuseum. org. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 16/11zł, family ticket 30zł, children under 7 free. UY

HIPOLIT HOUSE The Hipolits were a merchant family who lived in this fine building around the end of the 16th and beginning of the 17th centuries, though the building dates back considerably further than that. The inside has been transformed into a series of recreations of typical Polish bourgeois living spaces from the 17th to early 20th century, and is interesting for the insights it gives into how the other half lived as well as being a showcase for some truly remarkable furniture and antiques. There’s also currently an interesting temporary exhibit about Jan Zawiejski - one of Kraków’s most important turn-of-the-century architects (he designed Słowacki Theatre, for example). Worth a visit. QJ‑5, Pl. Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 42 19, www.mhk. pl. Open 10:00 - 17:30, Closed Mon, Tue, Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission 10/8zł, family ticket 20zł. Wed free. Y

Hipolit House

courtesy of History Museum in Kraków

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Museums HISTORY MUSEUM Established in 1899, Kraków’s History Museum - also known as Krzysztofory Palace - has undergone an extensive transformation, including the gradual restoration of the 17th century Baroque building that houses it, and the complete digitisation of the museum collection. While parts of the building remain under renovation, the new permanent exhibit is open: Cyberteka. Kraków - Time & Space chronicles the spatial and urban development of the city from its earliest beginnings until about 1915, via spiffy multimedia displays and 3D films (note this exhibit is free on Tues). This market square building is also home to a large museum shop with lots of souvenirs, posters, books and other information available.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 35, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 35, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:30, Closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł, family ticket 24zł. Y

New home of the History of Photography Museum

HISTORY OF PHOTOGRAPHY MUSEUM STRZELNICA BRANCH The gorgeously renovated Stara Strzelnica shooting gallery is home to the new permanent exhibit of Kraków’s Photography Museum. Located in Wola Justowska - an affluent neighbourhood west of the centre, the almost entirely wood and glass historical building dates back to the 1880s and was used as a shooting range by the Kraków Rifle Association and later by Piłsudski’s Polish Legions. Though in ruins for decades, the building has been thoroughly restored and also features a fancy restaurant and bookshop. The permanent exhibit ‘Portrait’ examines the multifaceted nature of the photographic portrait and its evolution over time, including various photography equipment and techniques, culminating in the rise and prevalence of...the ‘selfie’ (gag). There’s also an excellent outdoor exhibit of the work of award-winning local photographer Wojciech Plewiński, plus a restaurant. To get there involves a 20min bus ride and short walk (take buses 102, 134, 152, 192, 252 or 902 and get off at ‘Strzelnica’), but for shutterbugs, it’s worth it just to photograph the building itself.Qul. Królowej Jadwigi 220, tel. (+48) 798 08 35 14, www.mhf.krakow.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:30, Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł (all exhibits); permanent exhibits 12/8zł; temporary exhibits 6/4zł. Tue free for permanent exhibits. 66 Kraków In Your Pocket

HOME ARMY MUSEUM This beautifully restored 3-floor red-brick railway building has been adapted (including a gorgeous glass atrium) to house the Home Army Museum - documenting the size, organisation and efforts of Poland’s underground military resistance from the time of the failed September campaign of 1939 to the underground armed forces official disbanding in 1945. The Home Army’s continuing fight for freedom within the country’s two occupied zones (Nazi and Soviet) is one of World War II’s less acknowledged aspects, and though this enormous museum goes to great length to demonstrate that Poland’s government, military and civilian population never surrendered, the sprawling exhibits are confusing and chaotically organised; as a result you may want to dish out the 150zł, plus ticket price, for a guided tour (make sure to book at least one day in advance English, German, Italian, French, and Spanish available). Nevertheless it’s a must for those interested in WWII history, and you should reserve at least two hours for visiting.QK‑2, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 12 410 07 70, www.muzeum-ak.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Last entrance 1hr before closing. Admission 13/7zł. Sun free for permanent exhibit. UY HUTTEN-CZAPSKI MUSEUM Located in a stunningly restored 19th century neoRenaissance palace in the very centre of Kraków, this branch of the Kraków National Museum houses a comprehensive collection of Polish ‘numismatics’ - that is, antique Polish coins, banknotes and medals. The collection of Emeryk Hutten-Czapski, who once owned the place, also includes old books, manuscripts, maps and other national memorabilia from the medieval period to today. The displays are gorgeous and additional info (in Polish and English) about each artefact is conveyed via touchscreen computers. Despite the world-class displays (and a fantastic gargoyle out front), this one should probably be reserved for die hard Polish patriots with a fascination for coin collecting. Is that you?QH‑6, ul. Piłsudskiego 12, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 40, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri, Sun 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sunday free for permanent exhibitions. Ticket also valid for the Józef Czapski Pavilion. Y JAN MATEJKO HOUSE Jan Matejko was Poland’s greatest historical painter whose work and life is honoured in the house where he was born, lived and would eventually die in the 1890s. As well as some witty imaginings of Kraków medieval life, studies for gargoyles, and collections of Renaissance furniture and antique guns and ammo, the minutiae of Matejko’s life is preserved, right down to his eyeglasses in this relatively small museum. A fascinating tribute to a genuine Polish master, and a man of many parts, fans

Museums of Matejko should definitely visit the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.62) where many of his greatest works are displayed.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 41, tel. (+48) 12 433 59 60, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y JÓZEF CZAPSKI PAVILION Opened in April 2016, this modern building behind the Hutten-Czapski Palace is dedicated to Józef Czapski - an exiled Polish painter, writer, art critic, intellectual, and grandson of Emeryk Hutten-Czapski (whose famous coin collection is on display 100m away). The small permanent exhibit is a biographical look at his life via video interviews, archival materials and the personal effects he left to the city upon his passing in 1993. Though Czapski may be completely unknown, and his artistic-literary legacy difficult to ascertain, it is his role as a witness to history that makes this museum most worthwhile. Fantastic archival footage (subtitled in English) explains the evolving geopolitical climate in Europe during Czapski’s lifetime, and shape his story into one that represents not one man, but an entire generation of Poles - the educated class that was obliterated in the fields of Katyń and fires of the Warsaw Uprising, or somehow survived only to be exiled or imprisoned by the communist regime that followed WWII. Czapski’s story also reveals the almost disgusting cyclical nature of history and politics, and the destructive folly of nationalism - a lesson as necessary today as ever. Though small, it is easy to spend hours here exploring the multimedia exhibits, or sitting in the cafe.QH‑6, ul. Piłsudskiego 12, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 40, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 -18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sunday free for permanent exhibitions. Ticket also valid for the Hutten-Czapski Museum. Y

Józef Czapski Pavilion

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Museums LADY WITH A WEASEL

JÓZEF MEHOFFER HOUSE Mehoffer was one of the turn of the 20th century’s artistic elite, a skilled stained-glass artist collaborating with Wyspiański on the interiors of numerous Kraków churches, as well as his own installations across Galicia. This, his house, was where the artists of the Młoda Polska (Young Poland) movement often met and is a delight to visit, filled with elegant furnishings, Art Deco to impressionist-era art and many sketches, designs and finished stained glass pieces that attest to his important artistic legacy. In warmer months you won’t find a more magical place to relax and read a book than the hidden garden behind the house, presided over by Meho Cafe - one of the city’s best-kept secrets.QH‑5, ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 80, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Y LIPOWA 3 GLASS & CERAMICS CENTRE See p.54.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 3, www.lipowa3.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Admission 8/6zł. Guided tours available in English by prior arrangement, 80zł.

Kraków’s prized art piece is Lady With an Ermine - one of only three oil paintings by Leonardo da Vinci in the world, and a sentimental favourite of Poles, reproduced and hung in many a home. Leonardo’s Lady has a chequered history; when she isn’t entertaining she always seems to be on the run or in hiding somewhere. For centuries she was off the map completely, before having a rendezvous with Prince Adam Czartoryski during his Italian holiday in 1800. Gentleman that he was, he brought her home to his native Poland, where she was part of the family until escaping to Paris in 1830 during the Warsaw Insurrection. The Lady later returned to Poland in 1876 moving into what would become her official address in Kraków’s Czartoryski Museum, only to be captured by the Nazis and moved to Berlin. In 1946 the Americans rescued her and returned her to Kraków where she is today one of the city’s most beloved treasures. Following an extended residence at Wawel, Leonardo’s Lady has again changed addresses to the main branch of the National Museum (G-6, p.69) for the foreseeable future. Hosting company in her own private room, alongside in-depth information about her chequered past, a special 20/10zł ticket is required (but it also gets you into the National Museum’s permanent exhibits). 68 Kraków In Your Pocket

MANGGHA Located across the river from Wawel in Dębniki, The Manggha Museum of Japanese Art & Technology (to use its full name) has many hats - including performance hall, Japanese cultural centre, sushi bar and home to local legend Feliks Jasieński’s fabulous 6,500-piece collection of Japanese artefacts. The exceedingly modern building was funded by legendary Polish film director Andrzej Wajda upon winning the Kyoto city prize in 1987, and 2015 saw the opening of the adjacent European - Far East Gallery, which has doubled the space for temporary exhibits, several of which are on at any given time (check their website for specifics).QH‑8, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267 27 03, www.manggha.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł, family ticket 35zł, kids 7-16 1zł, kids under 7 free, Tue free. Guided tours 100zł. MICET (INTERACTIVE THEATRE MUSEUM) This new name-challenged museum in the basements of the Stary Teatr (Old Theatre) presents the theatre’s achievements through a digital archive, pays homage to theatre as a Polish cultural institution, and allows visitors to experience some of the technical aspects of theatrical production. Certainly the most hi-tech museum in Kraków, the whole experience is conducted through interactive apps, touch-screen displays, tablets and other digital exhibits. Your interest in the museum will depend entirely on your willingness to participate in its tech-savvy displays, and your visit necessarily begins with a guide showing you around and explaining how to interact with the exhibits. Using apps at various stations you can compose your own music for a production, change the lighting, sound and music on a stage, or explore a ‘virtual dressing room’ that acquaints you with iconic stage costumes. Perhaps

Museums the most challenging is a private room where you’re encouraged to record a video of yourself taking on a role, which you can then email to yourself. Impressively designed and entirely in English, quite a lot of money was spent on this, from the tablets and Beats headphones to the loads of programming, and a technician is actually on-hand to keep it working smoothly. White, minimal and devoid of objects, it’s all quite soulless considering the subject, and certainly not to all tastes (we saw several couples walk in, get the tour, and then walk right out). But we know of nothing comparable, and for aspiring actors, technicians, set and costume designers and general lovers of theatre, we can’t really imagine anything better.QI‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 75 12, www.micet.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł. U MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART (MOCAK) See p.55.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 4, www.mocak.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 14/7zł, Tue free. UY MUSEUM OF POLAND UNDER THE COMMUNIST REGIME (PRL MUSEUM) See p.60.QS‑3, Os. Centrum E 1, www.mprl.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon, Last entrance 30mins before closing. Admission 10/8zł. Tue free. NATIONAL MUSEUM, MAIN BUILDING The National Museum has 11 branches in Kraków, with this monolithic structure - apparently built over the course of half a century from 1935 to 1989 - being the main administrative branch and landing spot for the institution’s most ambitious exhibits. Permanent exhibits include the Gallery of Weaponry & Uniforms and Gallery of Decorative Arts, but it’s the consistently excellent temporary exhibits that should lure you here. Currently you’ll find a high-profile exhibit on Stanisław Wyspiański (whose epic monument stands outside the entrance), and an exhibition of political artwork by Peter Uklański, and, from October 31st, ‘Independence. Historical Thought & Józef Piłsudski’ which is organised in coordination with Poland’s 100th anniversary of independence celebrations; see our What’s On section for more details (p.23). The main branch also currently exhibits one of the museum’s most cherished treasures - Leonardo da Vinci’s famous oil painting Lady With an Ermine (p.68); beloved by locals, the painting is displayed in its own separate room and a separate ticket is required (20/15zł). One of Kraków’s largest museums, you’d be wise to focus on what you’re most interested in; to see it all would take the entire day. The museum also houses a small shop and cafe.QG‑6, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, www. mnk.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission for all permanent exhibits 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Admission for first temporary exhibit 20/15zł, family 40zł (includes entry to permanent exhibits); 2nd temporary exhibit 15/10zł, family 30zł. Admission for all exhibits 50/30zł, family ticket 100zł. UY krakow.inyourpocket.com

Museums

Pharmacy Museum

PHARMACY MUSEUM Located inside a wonderful 15th-century building, Kraków’s brilliant Pharmacy Museum is laid out over five floors and includes all manner of exhibits from full-scale reproductions of ancient apothecary shops to some beastly snakes in jars and, on the top floor, a really good display of traditional herbal medicines. Also of note is an exhibit dedicated to the extraordinary and brave Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz, who operated a pharmacy in the Kraków Ghetto during WWII. Overall, this surprising museum is a lot more interesting than it sounds.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 25, tel. (+48) 12 421 92 79, www.muzeum.farmacja.uj.edu.pl. Open 09:30 15:00, Closed Mon, Sun, Tue 12:00 - 18:30, Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 14/8zł, family ticket 30zł. POLISH AVIATION MUSEUM See p.61.QAl. Jana Pawła II 39 (Czyżyny), www. muzeumlotnictwa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission 15/7zł, family ticket 34zł; Tue free. UY RYNEK UNDERGROUND This hi-tech and highly popular museum takes visitors four metres under the surface of the market square to explore the medieval merchant stalls that predate today’s Cloth Hall, and experience the city’s entire history from its first settlers right up today - over the course of 6,000 metres of multimedia exhibits. Because of the museum’s popularity, and the fact that it is limited to

Rynek Underground

70 Kraków In Your Pocket

300 people at a time, timed tickets should be bought in advance. This can be done either online or from the information office confusingly located on the opposite side of the Cloth Hall from the museum entrance. The actual museum entrance is located on the side opposite St. Mary’s Basilica, of course, and once you’re inside your experience begins with a short film projected on a wall of smoke, before following the trail of truly remarkable exhibits displayed in what is essentially an archaeological site. Relying heavily on touch-screens and holograms, highlights include a fascinating look into life before Kraków received its charter and the market square was laid out, displays on city trade and transport, a fantastic area for kids that includes a performance by automated puppets, and the remains of an 11th-century cemetery replete with ‘vampire prevention burials’ (seriously). Visitors should also reserve time to view the excellent series of short documentaries covering different ages of Krakow’s history at the end of the tour route. In addition to the multilingual displays, audio guides are available in English, German, French, Russian, Italian and Spanish. QI‑5, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60, www. mhk.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Tue 10:00 - 16:00, Closed 2nd Mon of each month. Last entrance 75mins before closing. Admission 21/18zł, family ticket 42zł. Tue free. Audioguide 5zł. Y SCHINDLER’S FACTORY See p.55.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 4, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00, Last entrance 1.5hrs before closing. Admission 24/18zł, family ticket 55zł. Mon free for permanent exhibitions. Y STAINED GLASS MUSEUM Located in S.G. Żeleński’s historic stained glass studio, this ‘living museum’ offers the truly unique opportunity of visiting an active stained glass workshop, where you’ll witness masters at work, learn the artistic process involved in producing large-scale glass installations, and see some superb designs and finished works from throughout the over hundred-year history of the studio. Known as the ‘cradle of Polish stained glass art,’ Żeleński opened this studio in 1902 as a place for the best artists of the Art Nouveau era to meet and work, including such luminaries as Wyspiański and Mehoffer. Many of PL’s most outstanding examples of stained glass were created here, and today the studio remains the largest of its kind in the country. Visiting is only possible with a guide and the approximately 45-min tour is offered hourly in Polish (at :30 past the hour) and English (on the hour); stained glass workshops can also be arranged (in Polish, English, German, French or Italian). The museum also includes a cafe and gift shop where you can pick up beautiful stained glass pieces created on-site. Absolutely worth a visit for fans of the medium, as well as Art Nouveau enthusiasts.QG‑6, Al. Krasińskiego 23, tel. (+48) 512 93 79 79, www.stainedglass.pl. Open 11:30 - 18:00, Closed Mon, Sun. Guided tours 35/29zł per person in English; 28/23zł in Polish.

Museums SZOŁAYSKI HOUSE This well-located branch of the National Museum offers several temporary exhibits at any given time; check the website for details. On the ground floor is a small free exhibit that honours Kraków’s Grand Dame of poetry Wisława Szymborska by displaying articles collected from her apartment after her passing in 2012 (ends Dec. 30th, 2018). Upstairs, the exhibit ‘Kraków 1900’ (20/15zł) focuses on the artistic atmosphere of the city at the turn of the century, and consists of paintings, sculpture, graphic art, archival photos and everyday objects from the collection of the National Museum. The Tribeca cafe on the ground floor is also a great place to recharge the batteries, and the museum shop offers an array of art books.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 9, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 50, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. UY ULICA POMORSKA & FORMER GESTAPO CELLS Consisting of two separate exhibits, Ulica Pomorska offers the most chilling museum experience in Kraków (which is saying something). Located in the Dom Śląski, or ‘Silesian House,’ this infamous building became the Kraków headquarters of the Gestapo during WWII, who converted its cellars into detention cells for the interrogation and torture of political prisoners. These cells have been preserved and are free and open to the public as the ‘Former Gestapo Cells’ - immediately to your right as you enter the courtyard. Though the attendant will encourage you to enter straight away, we recommend you begin with the building’s main exhibit ‘People of Krakow in Times of Terror 1939-1945-1956,’ entered via a staircase in the corner of the courtyard. This ambitious and excellent exhibit takes visitors chronologically through the city’s not-so-distant past, illustrating the terror and tyranny of both the Nazi and Stalinist regimes in Kraków through an abundance of documents, photographs, audio recordings and other archival materials. From the first victims executed by the Nazis to the communist show trials of the mid50s, the stories of individual citizens and their varying experiences and reactions to both regimes is revealed in vivid and sometimes distressing detail. While the broad, more traditional museum presentation of this history is affecting enough, the immediacy of the Gestapo cells is truly haunting. An unimaginable 600 inscriptions scratched into the walls by prisoners awaiting their fate remain intact and provide a shocking, sobering and undeniable account of the suffering of hundreds of Cracovians during Nazi occupation. As you might expect, there are no fairy-tale endings here, so prepare yourself for the blunt force trauma of human tragedy. A worthwhile and memorable experience, reserve at least 90 minutes for visiting. Ulica Pomorska is a 20min walk from the market square, near the tram stop ‘Plac Inwalidów.’QG‑3, ul. Pomorska 2, tel. (+48) 12 633 14 14, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:30, Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 mins before closing. Admission 9/7zł, family ticket 18zł, Tue free. Admission to Former Gestapo Cells is free. Y

KRAKÓW STREET ART

‘Ding Dong Dumb’ mural by Blu, ul. Piwna 3A (L-10).

Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with large-scale Polish advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality; anyone who makes the strongly recommended visit to Kraków’s Poster Gallery (p.126) will easily discover why. With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would have a penchant for street graphics as well. And they do. In Kraków, as in other cities around PL, street art is currently going through a tidal wave of popularity, and in the last few years new street murals have become a common sight around Kraków’s city centre. More restaurants and businesses are turning to street artists to playfully embellish their public spaces, and city authorities have even taken the surprising step of sponsoring some large scale murals around the city centre. In fact, the emergence of street art as a growing and legitimised artistic discipline has created an interesting dichotomy in Kraków’s urban landscape between both sanctioned and unsanctioned works of ‘graffiti art’ and the prolific gang signs, slurs and football-related graffiti that city paint crews have targeted in their war on ‘vandalism.’ At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have little trouble tracking it down in Kraków, and we’re making it even easier. On our maps we’ve marked street art locations with a spray can symbol , so you can literally use them to give yourself a tour of Kraków’s urban art. Not only that, but we’ve also put it all online with GPS coordinates at iyp.me/krakowstreetart so that your smartphone can do the work for you. We encourage you to do just that, and check out some of Kraków’s alternative artistic visions.

ul. Zwierzyniecka (H-6/7)

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Wieliczka

Worth the 10zł photography fee, the Chapel of St. Kinga is Wieliczka Salt Mine’s crown jewel | Alana de Haan, alanacdehaan.com

Kraków is without a doubt one of the most popular tourist cities in Central Europe, and as you’ve likely heard, one of its top tourist attractions is a salt mine actually located in Wieliczka—a small town about 15km to the southeast. An astounding 1.4 million people visit Wieliczka Salt Mine each year, and it’s hardly a recent phenomenon—people have been visiting the salt mine for centuries with notable guests including Nicolaus Copernicus, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Fryderyk Chopin, Ignacy Paderewski, Pope John Paul II and former US president Bill Clinton. In fact, the first official tourist trail opened underground here way back in the mid-19th century. But it’s not only tourists who come to visit. So deep is the love of the locals for this place that in a recent survey, Cracovians voted Wieliczka Salt Mine as their number one favourite thing about Kraków; again, not bad for an attraction in another town 15 kilometres away.

TOURIST INFORMATION Wieliczka’s small tourist information centre is strategically located quite close to the Wieliczka train station, evenly spaced between the Regis and Daniłowicza Shafts. These folks will get you pointed in the right direction and provide you with all the maps and info needed to get you there, as well as helping you find places to eat, sleep and investigate.Qul. Dembowskiego 2A, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 288 00 52, www.ckit.wieliczka.eu. Open 09:00 - 17:00. 72 Kraków In Your Pocket

Not only is Wieliczka Salt Mine a World Heritage Site, but it has the distinction of having been included (along with Kraków’s Old Town and Kazimierz districts) on UNESCO’s first-ever World Heritage List back in 1978 (you know, back when being a World Heritage site actually meant something). Additional accolades aside, this unique industrial heritage site has been a popular destination for centuries and if you’re visiting Kraków for more than a few days, you should consider a short side trip out to Wieliczka.

WHAT TO SEE One of the most famous attractions in all of Poland, the Wieliczka Salt Mine is what has drawn tourists to this small town for centuries. Visiting this underground realm can be done in a number of ways. Most popular is the traditional ‘Tourist Route,’ which leaves from the Daniłowicza Shaft and covers the most impressive parts of the mine, including ancient mining tools and technology, saline lakes, and numerous majestic chambers and chapels, particularly St. Kinga’s Chapel. An alternative option is the more interactive ‘Miners’ Route,’ which leaves from the Regis Shaft and involves participants being assigned a role by the foreman/ tour guide and experiencing the daily routines, rituals and secrets of working underground. As one of the oldest and most wealthy towns in Małopolska, it’s safe to assume that not all of Wieliczka’s wonders reside underground. Listed as a historical monument in 1994, the centre of the town itself - located between the two shafts - is easily walkable and perfectly charming, including a handsome town square, the Saltworks Castle and St. Clement’s Church.

Wieliczka WIELICZKA SALT MINE - TOURIST ROUTE For literally hundreds of years, tourists have enjoyed the underground wonders of Wieliczka’s Salt Mine, and the most popular way to visit begins at the Daniłowicza Shaft, located just a short walk up ul. Daniłowicza from the Wieliczka train station; buy your ticket from the adjacent ticket office and check the outside display for the time of the next guided tour in your language (tours are offered in Polish, English, Russian, French, Italian, Spanish and German). Your ticket is valid for two parts of the salt mine: the Tourist Route, which comprises the first 2 hours, and the Underground Museum which takes an additional hour to visit. In between there’s an opportunity to take a break, use the restrooms and even get something to eat (or escape if that’s your preference). However, be aware that the tour does not end at the restaurant as many tour guides suggest it does to foreign groups; in fact, they are obliged to escort you to and through the Underground Museum (which you have already paid for) as well. Be prepared to do a lot of walking (comfortable shoes, people) and bear in mind that the mine is a constant 15 degrees Centigrade. Your tour begins in earnest by descending 380 wooden stairs to the first level 64m underground; don’t worry, you won’t have to climb them, but just descending will give your calves a work-out. Of nine levels, the tour only takes you to the first three (a max depth of 135m), with the 3.5km covered during the 3 hour tour (including both parts) comprising a mere 1% of this underground realm. While wandering the timber-reinforced tunnels you’ll gain insight from your guide into the history of the site, the techniques used to extract the salt and the lives of the men who worked there. There’s the opportunity to not only operate a medieval winch used for moving massive blocks of salt, but also to lick the walls (bring some tequila). The tour visits numerous ancient chambers and chapels in which almost everything around you is made from rock salt, including the tiled floors, chandeliers, sculptures and stringy stalactites that hang down. The highlight of the tour is the magnificent 22,000m³ St. Kinga’s Chapel dating from the 17th century. Known for its amazing acoustics, the chapel features bas-relief wall carvings from the New Testament done

Detail from a bas-relief in St. Kinga’s Chapel, Tourist Route.

HISTORY About 20 million years ago, Kraków and the surrounding area apparently lay at the bottom of a shallow, salty sea. Unfortunately for those of us here today, the beaches are gone, but left behind were some enormous salt deposits, shifted hundreds of metres underground by tectonic movements. Though cheap and universally accessible today, salt was an extremely valuable commodity centuries ago due to its ability to preserve food, especially meat. An ancient sign of wealth, salt was used as currency before there was money; Roman soldiers who ably performed their duties were said to be ‘worth their salt’ and the word ‘salary’ comes from the Latin word ‘salarium’ used to describe their salty wages. Salt extraction by boiling water from briny surface pools in the regions surrounding Kraków can be traced back to the middle Neolithic era (3500 BC), but it was the discovery of underground rock salt in the 13th century that led to the rapid development of the area. Underground extraction began in nearby Bochnia in 1252 and was established on an industrial scale in Wieliczka by the 1280s; soon both cities had earned municipal rights and by the end of the 13th century the Cracow Saltworks was established to manage both mines, with its headquarters in the Wieliczka castle complex. One of the first companies in Europe, the Cracow Saltworks brought vast wealth to the Polish crown for the next 500 years until the first partition of Poland in the 18th century. Its heyday was the 16th and 17th centuries when it employed some 2,000 people, production exceeded 30,000 tonnes and the Saltworks accounted for one third of the revenue of the state treasury. Under Austrian occupation (1772-1918) production was further increased by mechanising the mining works with steam and later electric machinery, and the first tourist route was opened. By the 20th century however, over-exploitation and neglect of necessary protection works had begun to destabilise the mine’s condition and the market value of salt no longer made it a viable enterprise. In 1964 the extraction of rock salt was halted in Wieliczka and in 1996 exploitation of the salt deposit was stopped altogether. Despite the significant hazards of the day (flooding, cave-ins, explosive gas), over the course of seven centuries 26 access shafts and 180 fore-shafts connecting individual levels had been drilled in Wieliczka. 2,350 chambers had been excavated with over 240km of tunnels reaching a maximum depth of 327m underground. Due to its unique saline microclimate and innovative engineering, the mine has been well preserved and is today used for historical, medicinal and tourist purposes.

Alexander Baxevanis, CC BY 2.0

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Wieliczka by miners that display an astonishing amount of depth and realism. After passing a lake that holds more than 300g of salt per litre, and a hall high enough to fly a hot-air balloon in, the first part of the tour ends at the underground restaurant and souvenir stands, at which point you should be instructed on your two options: how to exit (option A) or where and when to join the second part of the tour (option B). If option B is unmentioned, inform your guide that you also want to see the Underground Museum and ask them how to do so. Past the restaurant and restrooms you’ll find both the queue for the tiny, nerve-wracking, high-speed lift that shoots you back up to the surface (option A), and a separate area to the right for those that want to continue on to the Underground Museum (option B). Your original guide should admit and lead you through the museum exhibition, which comprises an additional 16 chambers over 1.5kms packed full of artwork, artefacts and mining equipment. Perhaps the most fascinating and informative part of the Wieliczka experience, the highlights of these beautiful exhibits include two paintings by famous 19th century Polish artist Jan Matejko, and an entire room full of sparkling salt crystals. Upon completion your guide leads you back to the ancient lift which takes you above ground back to where you started.Qul. Daniłowicza 10, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl. 26 Dec - 4 Jan: Open 08:00 -18:00. Admission 89/69zł. Taking photos is an additional 10zł. Tickets can be bought online through their website, which is the best way to see the tour times available. In addition to the traditional ‘Tourist Route’ described above, other routes in English are also offered from the Daniłowicza Shaft if booked in advance, including the ‘Pilgrims’ Route’ and a handicap-accessible route.

GETTING TO WIELICZKA Getting to Wieliczka is a cinch with the E4 road east out of Kraków leading straight to the Wieliczka exit in about 15 minutes. Unfortunately, train service is currently complicated by work on the rails; trains leave from platform 3 of Kraków Główny train station about once an hour from 5:00 until 23:00, but schedules change frequently, so check malopolskiekoleje.pl for exact connections and times. Tickets cost 3.50zł and can be bought on board. Alternatively, you can take bus 304 from the ‘Dworzec Główny Zachód’ stop outside Galeria Krakowska near ul. Kurniki (K-4, buy a 4/2zł ticket for Zone II from the ticket machine on-board), which runs every 20mins (no breaks). The journey takes 32mins and drops you off at ‘Wieliczka Kopalnia Soli 1’ about 150m downhill from the Daniłowicza Shaft. 74 Kraków In Your Pocket

The IYP team auditions for work underground on the Miners’ Route.

WIELICZKA SALT MINE - MINERS’ ROUTE A more interactive alternative to the mega-popular ‘Tourist Route,’ Wieliczka’s Miners’ Route offers visitors a chance to sign on as novice miners for the day and learn the ropes of this dangerous and demanding profession. This more workmanlike expedition sets off from the historic Regis Shaft, located right in the centre of Wieliczka, just a short walk east from the train station. Here, participants are given grey coveralls, a hard hat, headlamp and emergency respirator, assigned a locker, and told to suit up and report for underground duty. In addition to the fun of dressing up and looking slightly ridiculous, each person in the group is given a specific role by the foreman/ tour guide who will appraise their performance when they are called upon to perform certain tasks during the course of this 3-hour trip underground. While exploring passages and chambers that are sometimes lit only by the light of your own torches, you and your companions will learn safety measures, strange mining traditions and rituals, how to use specialised mining equipment and get a more authentic and exciting sense of what it’s like to work underground. While some members will be tasked with measuring the concentration of methane, transporting, or grinding up salt, the map readers have perhaps the most challenging job of navigating the group through this extremely disorienting underground labyrinth. Szczęść Boże! Though lacking the jaw-dropping sights of the Tourist Route, the Miners’ Route can be great fun for groups (up to 20 people), especially if you’ve done the Tourist Route before. Individuals can also go on their own, or join together to form a group. Tours are given at specific times in Polish, English or Russian only, and should be reserved in advance; arrive 15mins before the tour begins in order to get geared up. While hardly strenuous, this route is more active than the Tourist Route and comfortable shoes are a must. Also, bear in mind that the mine is a cool 15 degrees Centigrade.QPlac Kościuszki 9, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl. Admission 89/69zł. Tickets can be bought through their website, which is the best way to see the tour times available.

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Auschwitz

For centuries the town of Oświęcim was a quiet backwater community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed with WWII when Oświęcim, known as ‘Auschwitz’ under German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5 million people were exterminated here, etching the name of Auschwitz forever into the history books and countless films, documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since burned it into the collective consciousness.

presented in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps spared from fully surrendering to their emotions only by the sheer relentlessness of the information. No matter how much you think you know on the subject, the perspective gained by visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you choose to go to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However it should be understood that Auschwitz is not a site of Jewish concern, Polish concern, German concern, gypsy concern, historical concern... It is a site of human concern. As such, we believe everyone should visit.

Visitors to Kraków and Katowice are faced with asking themselves whether or not they will make the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a difficult question. There are few who would say they actually ‘want’ to visit Auschwitz, though many are compelled to do so for their own reasons. For those of us who don’t feel so compelled, it’s easy to give reasons for not going: not having enough time, already knowing as much as we need or want to know about it, not feeling personally connected enough to the site or the history to need to visit, or being uncomfortable about the prospect of visiting a site of such emotional resonance at the same time as hundreds of other tourists. Having been there, we can tell you that all of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz are perfectly reasonable until you’ve actually visited the site; you’ll be hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip and still argues against going.

VISITING AUSCHWITZ

The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion, poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it almost makes as lasting an impression as the site itself. Without being heavy-handed, the history of the site is 76 Kraków In Your Pocket

If you’ve decided to visit Auschwitz, you basically have three options: visit as part of a group organised by a tourist agency, visit independently and join a guided tour at the museum, or visit independently for free without a guide. Unfortunately, a new online reservation system now makes the latter two options much more difficult than in the past. All visits must now be booked in advance through the website visit.auschwitz.org. As a result, you may find there are no tickets available because they have all been snatched up by tourist agencies. The unavailability of tickets online doesn’t mean you can’t visit Auschwitz when you want, but it does basically force you to sign up for a tour through an outside provider. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as it relieves you of the hassle of figuring out how to get there and back, but you will essentially be paying a surcharge for the service. For most people, however, it is worth it. If you are determined to visit independently you need to know that during peak season (March - October) the museum makes it obligatory to buy a ticket and become part of a 3.5hr guided tour unless you get there before

Auschwitz 10:00 or after 16:00 - during which times it is possible to visit for free on your own (last entrance to Auschwitz I is 1.5hrs before closing). Be that as it may, we strongly recommend the official guided tour, which is excellent, profound and professional; afterwards you’ll find it hard to imagine getting as much out of your visit had you explored the grounds on your own. Tour departure times fluctuate (check the schedule online), but tours in English depart frequently, and there are also regularly scheduled tours in Polish, German, French, Italian, Russian and Spanish; tours in other languages can also be arranged in advance through the website. Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum on your own can be chaotic and confusing thanks to large crowds and unclear signage. If you are visiting independently, or in a small group, head for queue in front of the desk marked ‘Individual Guests;’ if it’s peak season (March 1 - Oct. 31) and you don’t already have tickets (not recommended), you must first visit the white Info box located outside the entrance. Once you’re through the queues, your experience typically begins with a harrowing 20-minute film of narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army when they arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945. The film is not guaranteed however, so in some cases your tour will begin straightaway with a live guide speaking into a microphone which you hear through your headphones. If you intend to explore Auschwitz without a guide, we recommend that you give yourself several hours to explore both camps, and that you pick up the official guidebook (10zł) whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid missing any of the key sites; these can be picked up at any of the numerous bookshops at both Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II - Birkenau. Visiting Auschwitz is a full day’s excursion so prepare accordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I takes around 2 hours, so make sure you’ve eaten breakfast. After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a short break before the bus leaves for Auschwitz-Birkenau II; in order to stay with the same tour guide, you need to catch that bus, so it would be wise to pack some food for the day (though there is some limited food available at the museum). The tour of the second camp is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours. Buses regularly depart back to Auschwitz I, or you can walk or catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away. At Auschwitz I there are restrooms (have change available), a fast food bar and a restaurant; there are also restroom facilities at Auschwitz II-Birkenau. Note that only small bags are allowed into Auschwitz I; if your bag exceeds the very small dimensions of 30x20x10cm, you’ll have to leave it somewhere; lockers are provided for this purpose.Qul. Stanisławy Leszczyńskiej 11, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz. org. Both Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau open 07:30 - 15:30. From January both open 07:30 - 16:30. Last entrance 1.5hrs before closing. Auschwitz is not recommended for those under 14 years old. An individual ticket for a foreign language guided tour of both camps, plus the film, costs 50/45zł. Admission without a guide (when possible) to either camp is free, but the film costs 6/3zł.

GETTING TO AUSCHWITZ

Auschwitz II - Birkenau Photo by Alana de Haan; alanacdehaan.com

Lying 75km west of Kraków, there are several ways to get to Oświęcim/Auschwitz. The easiest may be signing on for a tour organised by a multitude of Kraków-based tour companies (like Cracow City Tours or Cracow Tours) to ensure everything goes smoothly; providing transportation, tickets and general guidance, the organisational help of these outfits can eliminate significant confusion upon arrival. For those going the DIY route, whether by bus or train, the route planning website e-podroznik. pl is a valuable resource. Frequent buses depart for Oświęcim from Kraków’s main bus station (ul. Bosacka 18, L-4); most stop at the Auschwitz Museum entrance (called ‘Oświęcim Muzeum’), but not all, so make sure beforehand otherwise you may end up at the Oświęcim bus station which is at the other end of town. The journey takes 1hr 20-40mins and costs 12-15zł. Frequent, almost hourly trains also run between Kraków and Oświęcim, with a journey time of 1hr 45mins 2hrs 15mins and a cost of about 9zł; note, however, that early trains to Oświęcim can be eerily crowded, particularly on weekends. The Oświęcim train station (ul. Powstańców Śląskich 22) lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers 24-29 stop at Auschwitz I; buy a ticket (under 3zł) from the nearest kiosk. Free museum buses regularly shuttle visitors between the two camps, or catch a cab for 15zł. Waiting minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour (+48 605 31 50 77) can take you back to Kraków from either camp - a group of eight would pay about 30-40zł/person.

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Tarnów WHAT TO SEE

Eighty kilometres east of Kraków lies the charming and hospitable city of Tarnów. Małopolska’s second city by size, Tarnów is absolutely dwarfed by Kraków but features many of the same cultural and architectural charms without the crushing crowds, inflated prices and occasional feelings of herd mentality that unfortunately come along with a tourist market the size of Kraków’s. On the contrary, Tarnów offers tourists the comforts of a small town with a long history and the cultural intrigue and activities of a bigger city. In addition to a well-preserved medieval Old Town - which includes a glorious Cathedral, a cute market square and Town Hall, and many pedestrian avenues - in Tarnów visitors will discover several unique and worthwhile museums, wooden churches, historic cemeteries, castle ruins and a scenic overlook, as well as dozens of artistic and historical monuments at every turn. Those with a special interest in Tarnów’s Jewish heritage will still find traces of it today in the city’s small, but evocative Jewish district and large Jewish Cemetery. While the town’s nightlife may not have the sizzle of Kraków, there are still plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants where you’ll find it easy to meet friendly local folks who are proud of their city and eager to present a good impression to foreigners. All told it’s enough to easily warrant spending at least one night, if not more, as Tarnów also makes a superb base for exploring the wealth of other nearby sites in the region. You’ll find more information on Tarnów and all the surrounding area has to offer on our website (tarnow.inyourpocket.com), but make sure you also pay a visit to the fine folks at the Tourist Information Office (Rynek 7; open 08:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00) when you arrive and pick up a copy of IYP’s special Tarnów mini-guide. 78 Kraków In Your Pocket

MARKET SQUARE & TOWN HALL The centre of the city’s social life and business trade since early times, Tarnów’s market square was conceived in the early 14th century when it was laid out on a sandy hill surrounded by a lower loop of city walls and defensive towers. Although the defensive fortifications no longer remain (with the exception of a few fragments), the medieval layout of the Old Town remains intact to this day. Measuring 74.5 by 89.4 metres, Tarnów’s market square includes two reconstructed medieval wells in the northeast and south-west corners, and is surrounded on all four sides by fine Renaissance merchant houses dating from the 16th to the 18th century. Today these buildings host various cultural venues, museums, restaurants and cafes, and in the spring and summer the Rynek comes to life with tables and chairs from the businesses lining it, and has a warm and welcoming appeal. At its centre stands the Town Hall, a lovely 15th-century building originally constructed in the Gothic style and remodelled at the end of the 16th century in a classic Renaissance manner, topped off with gargoyles and a 30m tower from which Tarnów’s ‘hejnał’ – a short traditional melody – is played every day at 12:00. Rather amusingly, 12:00 depends on which side of the building you’re on, as the time displayed by the Town Hall’s two clocks (located just below the tower) differs by two minutes. This can be forgiven when one considers that the manually wound clock - whose 10-metre shaft spans the entire building - has otherwise operated flawlessly without being modernised since the 1600s. Today the Town Hall is accessible as a branch of the Tarnów District Museum and worth a visit.QRynek 1, tel. (+48) 14 692 90 00, www. muzeum.tarnow.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Thu 09:00 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Mon, Sat, Last entrance 30mins before closing. Museum admission 8/5zł, family ticket 16zł, Sun free for permanent exhibition. NU CATHEDRAL Dating from the 14th century with major additions and rebuilds in the 15th and 19th centuries, the Neo-Gothic Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, just northwest of the Rynek and one of the oldest brick buildings in the city, must rate as one of the most impressive parish churches in Poland. Of note is the 16th-century portal, the impressive several-metre-long monuments to the Tarnowski and Ostrogski families, a number of extraordinary paintings and the impressive, 72-metre tower, a handy point of reference when getting lost in one of Tarnów’s many rambling back streets. Some nice recent additions are also evident, including the fabulously ornate sculpted metal doors on the southern side of the building, and a large monument of Pope John Paul II outside the entrance.QPl. Katedralny, tel. (+48) 14 621 45 01, www.katedra.tarnow.opoka.org.pl. Open 10:00 - 11:00, 13:00 - 17:00; Sun 13:00 - 15:00, 16:00 - 17:00. No visiting during mass please.

Tarnów

THE OLD SYNAGOGUE BIMAH Between ul. Żydowska (Jewish Street) and Plac Rybny (Fish Square) stood The Old Synagogue, Tarnów’s primary place of worship for 45% of its population when war broke out in 1939. The first synagogue at this site dates back to some time before 1582; the frequent victim of fires, the wooden structure was finally rebuilt out of brick in 1670. On November 8th, 1939, the Old Synagogue was destroyed by the Nazis and later demolished; all that remains today is the brick ‘bimah’ - a four-pillared podium from which the Torah was read. In 1987 a roof was placed over the bimah to protect it, and the area around it has since been renovated into an appealing public space which hosts concerts during the annual celebrations of the ‘Galician Shtetl Jewish Memory Days’ each summer. Today the bimah is the most visible and perhaps the most important monument to Tarnów’s Jewish heritage.QSkwer Starej Synagogi.

THE JEWISH CEMETERY A 10min walk north of the Old Town, this cemetery was established in the 1580s and is one of the oldest and largest in PL. With several thousand gravestones, the Jewish Cemetery is a haunting, albeit necessary part of any visit to Tarnów. Though overgrown in some areas, millions of złoty have been invested in the cemetery’s restoration. Near the entrance is a large memorial to the Jews of Tarnów, and signs in English mark a few of the graveyard’s more eminent souls. The cemetery’s original gates are now in Washington DC’s Holocaust Museum, and their replacements are kept firmly locked, however you can borrow a key from the Tourist Info Centre (Rynek 7).QJunction of ul. Słoneczna and ul. Matki Bożej Fatimskiej.

GETTING TO TARNÓW Only 80km east of Kraków, Tarnów is most easily reached by road - a hassle-free drive down the new A4 highway that takes less than an hour. Buses from Kraków to Tarnów run 2-3 times each hour, with the first leaving as early as 05:55 and the last bus back to Kraków departing at 21:00; the journey takes between 1hr 15mins and 2hrs. Trains to Tarnów also run every 30-60 minutes from Kraków, with a journey time of between 45 and 85 minutes depending on whether you take a local or express train. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Behold the mighty zapiekanka! | Photo by Liam Alford CC BY-SA

7 Essential Eating Experiences From street food to traditional national dishes, these are the eating experiences you must have while in Krakรณw. Consider it an edible to-do list. 80 Krakรณw In Your Pocket

Essential Eats What’s the first food item people associate with Poland? Yes, pierogi - a stuffed dumpling whose general equivalent can be found in just about every single regional cuisine the world over. That’s not to disparage pierogi, but if you’ve tried them locally and think you’re done with Kraków food tourism, we insist otherwise. Just as every country has its own specific culinary profile, so too does every city. We’d argue that the latter are generally far more interesting, revealing and rewarding than the former, as they give you a greater sense not only of place, but also people, contributing to the unique character of a city. From street food to traditional national dishes, here are the most essential eating experiences you must have while in Kraków. Consider it an edible to-do list:

1. OBWARZANKI

Any culinary journey through Kraków is likely to start with the obwarzanek. A chewy dough ring sprinkled (usually extremely unevenly) with salt, poppy or sesame seeds, obwarzanki are sold from blue rolling carts on every other street corner in Kraków, and are so inescapable they’ve become an unofficial symbol of the city.

the baked goods have a sell-by date of about three hours. As such, finding a fresh one is essential, but for a couple coins you can afford to try your luck.

2. ZAPIEKANKA FROM PLAC NOWY

Essentially a baguette pizza, zapiekanki emerged during the communist era as the ultimate Polish street food: cheap, fast, filling, and easy enough to make that anywhere with a wall socket and space for a toaster could become a zapiekanki stand. Order one at any train station in PL and you’ll essentially receive half a stale baguette covered with mushrooms and cheese, thrown in a toaster oven and squirted with ketchup. Underwhelming to say the least. However, the vendors of the Plac Nowy roundhouse (K-8. p.44) - Kraków’s drunk food headquarters in Kazimierz have taken this simple concept and gone gourmet with it, making a true art out of the ‘Polish pizza.’ With endless add-ons (including salami, spinach, smoked cheese, pickles, pineapple, feta – you name it), garlic sauce and chives have become standard procedure at this point. Because of their popularity you’ll witness ridiculous lines at the various windows around the roundhouse, but the wait is worth it. At 6-12zł (depending on toppings) it’s a great value and will sustain you through a night of heavy drinking (if copious amounts of bread isn’t in your diet, split one with friend by asking the vendor to cut it in half). To leave town without having tried a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be felonious, as would settling for one anywhere else in Kraków. Most vendors on Plac Nowy are open from mid-afternoon until about 02:00, but it all depends of factors outside our purview.

3. KIEŁBASA FROM THE BLUE VAN Obwarzanki

Photo by Chris Brown

Known as the ‘Cracovian bagel,’ the obwarzanek gets its name from the Polish word for ‘par-boiled’ and therefore differs slightly from the bagel, in addition to being its internationally popular counterpart’s predecessor. Though the origins of the Jewish bagel are complex, confusing and hotly-contested, most agree that it was invented by Cracovian Jews after 1496 when King Jan Sobieski lifted the decree that formerly restricted the production of baked goods to the Kraków Bakers Guild. First written mention of the obwarzanek, meanwhile, dates back earlier to 1394, meaning that it’s been a daily sight on Kraków’s market square for well over 600 years. In 2010 it was given prestigious PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) status as a protected regional food under EU law. Although recent inflation has jacked the price of an obwarzanek up to around 1.50zł (sacrilege!), you’ll still see countless people on the go munching these braided pretzel rings. Tasty and filling when fresh, the art of truly enjoying an obwarzanek leaves a lot up to chance. Cracovian bakers produce up to 200,000 obwarzanki daily in the summer, despite the fact that on leaving the oven

‘Kiełbasa’ is probably one of the most internationally understood words in the Polish language, and this legendary sidewalk stand is the place to partake locally in a Polish sausage. A Cracovian street food institution for over twenty-five years, here two old boys in white smocks set up shop outside their iconic blue Nyska (a Soviet model van) every evening except Sundays to grill kiełbasa sausages over a wood-fired stove for the hungry, drunken masses. For 8zł you get a delicious sausage, slightly stale roll, ketchup, mustard and an unforgettable experience. Essentially Kraków’s first food truck, don’t miss it if you’re in the neighbourhood. QK‑6, ul. Grzegórzecka 3 (Plac Targowy). Open 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.

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Essential Eats 5. VODKA & PICKLED HERRING

4. A MILK BAR

Essentially the inverse of gourmet dining, the Polish milk bar (‘bar mleczny’) was the communist party’s solution for how to feed the masses, and a visit to one of these working class cafeterias today provides a rare insight into Eastern Bloc Poland. Quickly serving traditional cuisine to a steady queue of students, pensioners and tramps, here you can eat a full meal for only a few coins. You get what you pay for in terms of atmosphere, but in terms of food it’s an unbeatable value. That said, anyone stepping into a milk bar should be doing so as much for the cultural experience as the culinary one. Though the concept apparently dates back to the turn of the century, the Polish milk bar became a societal institution after WWII when PL’s communist authorities began nationalising the country’s restaurants and sought to popularise milk-drinking (as opposed to vodka), inspired by Poland’s large surplus of dairy products. As such, originally no hot dishes were served; the milk bar was a place where you went simply to enjoy milk, served in a glass with a straw (so classy). But the proletariat can’t run on milk alone and soon the Party concept had shifted to providing cheap, dairy-based meals to the masses; in fact, a worker’s salary often included meals at the local milk bar. In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage cheese and other dairy concoctions, milk bars offered omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as flour-based foods like pierogi.

A very Polish phenomenon that has swept the country in recent years is the all-night snacks and shots bar. Known locally as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’ (literally ‘Appetisers & Snacks’), or ‘Polish Tapas’ as it’s been dubbed by some, these trendy budget bars can be found all over town, cashing in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by offering a small selection of simple, Soviet-era appetisers (typically served cold) for about 8-10zł each, with drinks at 4-5zł. Much like a milk bar with a liquor license, the menu reads like a list of correct answers to the Jeopardy category ‘Foods That Go With Vodka’ and typically includes śledź (pickled herring in oil), galaretka (pig trotters in jelly), kiełbasa (sausage), pierogi, pickles and beef tartare. For the proper experience, however, it has to be pickled herring and clear vodka; Ambasada Śledzia (The Herring Embassy) offers not only the widest variety of śledź, but also the best quality, plus a slightly less sloppy atmosphere than the 24-hour student mayhem found in Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa or Bania Luka. AMBASADA ŚLEDZIA (THE HERRING EMBASSY) When this main ‘Herring Embassy’ shutters, the all-night shenanigans carry on down the street at ul. Stolarska 5 (‘Śledź u Fryzjera,’ open 13:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 13:00 - 06:00). QJ‑6, ul. Stolarska 8/10, tel. (+48) 662 56 94 60. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. BW BANIALUKA Also at ul. Szewska 13 (B-3).QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 6, tel. (+48) 790 77 06 48. Open 10:00 - 06:00. UBW PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA Also at ul. Floriańska 34 (J-5), ul. Szewska 20 (I-5) and Pl. Nowy 7 (K-8).QJ‑5, ul. Św. Jana 3-5 (entrance from ul. Św. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 80 75. Open 09:00 - 06:00. BW

With the collapse of communism most bar mleczny went bankrupt, however, some of these feed museums were saved and continue to be kept open through state subsidies. Indecisiveness is unacceptable, so if you’re not sure what to order, pierogi are always a safe bet, or be bold and go for bigos (a hearty cabbage stew). The range of available dishes begins to fall off as closing time approaches, so go early, go often. POD TEMIDĄ Located right on the Royal Route, this is the easiest milk bar to find: look for the blue and white ‘Bar Mleczny’ sign. QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 43, tel. (+48) 12 422 08 74. Open 09:00 - 20:00. €. U 82 Kraków In Your Pocket

Exotic herring dishes from Ambasada Śledzia, with sour cream, curry and beets, respectively.

Essential Eats 6. PĄCZKI

A tradition since the 1700s, the pączek (plural: pączki) is Poland’s national doughnut, and so popular that it even has its own annual holiday – Tłusty Czwartek (Fat Thursday) – which falls on the last Thursday before the start of Lent (generally in February). A traditional pączek is typically filled with rose jam and glazed with sugar and candied orange peel, or simply topped with powdered sugar. These can be found in any local cukiernia, but a new breed of doughnut shops are now expanding the horizons of the humble pączek by offering an array of fillings, and we list them below: GORĄCE PĄCZKI QI‑5, ul. Szewska 25, tel. (+48) 791 55 55 88. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €. STARA PĄCZKARNIA Also in the Basztowa-Lubicz underpass between the Planty and Galeria Krakowska (K-5).QJ‑8, ul. Stradomska 18, tel. (+48) 506 95 88 90, www.starapaczkarnia.pl. Open 08:30 - 21:00, Fri 08:30 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. €.

Oscypek from the Christmas Market

7. GRILLED OSCYPEK WITH CRANBERRIES

A tradition of the mountainous Podhale region just south of Kraków, oscypek is a smoked cheese made from salted sheep milk which is curdled, then rinsed repeatedly with boiling water, squeezed, and pressed into wooden forms which give it it’s decorative shape. It has a distinct smoky, salty flavour and chewy texture, and, like the obwarzanek, is protected under EU law from being made outside of the Polish Tatra Mountains. Though not technically Cracovian, since Kraków is the closest metropolitan area to the Tatras, oscypek is a common site in the city’s markets; you’ll also find babcias (Polish grannies) selling their decorative cheeses near the train station. The best way to enjoy oscypek, however (in our opinion, anyway), is grilled with a side of cranberry sauce. Most traditional Polish restaurants will serve it this way as an appetiser, or if you’re lucky you can score some at one of Kraków’s many food fairs on the market square or Mały Rynek.

FOOD TRUCKS

Judah Square

photo by Aga Burghardt

DWOREK STREET FOOD PARK The first food truck park truly in the centre (finally), this trendy hangout next to Puro Hotel is a great alternative to the eating options inside Galeria Krakowska. Behind a colourful gateway of painted palettes you’ll find beach chairs, benches, umbrellas, boardwalks across the gravel lot and even toilets, plus, of course, eleven food trucks offering a range of delicious street food: Georgian ajapsandali (Gruzja na Podwórku), fried pizza (Don Fritto), hot dogs and burgers (Palm Beach Grill), ramen and baozi (Szanyrak), Hungarian kurtosh kalach and lángos (Szesze), Cuban sandwiches, Belgian fries, bubble waffles, crepes, ice cream, coffee and local beer from Brokreacja.QK‑3, ul. Pawia 30. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. JUDAH SQUARE FOOD TRUCK PARK Food trucks are the latest food fad in PL, and Kazimierz’s Skwer Judah - so named after the massive street mural that adorns it - provides parking and some scant seating for this culinary trend. Tenants change often, but reliable residents include Frytki Belgijskie (Belgianstyle fries), Andrus Food Truck (serving maczanka - the Cracovian pulled pork sandwich), Wurst Truck (sausage), Pan Kumpir (loaded jacket potatoes) and Chimney Cake Bakery.QK‑9, Skwer Judah, ul. Św Wawrzyńca 16, tel. (+48) 508 70 67 08. Open 12:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. TRUCKARNIA FOOD TRUCK PARK Though lacking the constant buzz of Skwer Judah, the success of this gravel food truck lot is certainly secure thanks to its tourist-friendly location across from Galicia Jewish Museum; we actually prefer this spot for being cleaner (less pigeons!) and more chill. It also features a proper bar - something Kraków’s other food truck parks can’t boast - serving signature cocktails, craft beer and hot drinks, and generally making the space more of a giant beer garden. You never know what kind of unique ethnic food you’ll find here; on our most recent visit we saw burgers, French tacos, bubu arare (Japanese rice crackers), fried tempura and some really good Polish food.QL‑8, ul. Dajwór 21, tel. (+48) 502 56 53 70. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. B6W krakow.inyourpocket.com

Traditional Polish Dishes

Pierogi | courtesy of Tradycyja (p.100).

Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and not especially colourful. You simply haven’t had a thorough sampling of it until you’ve tried all the traditional dishes below, all of which can be found at almost any Polish restaurant in town. Smacznego!

BIGOS

Though there is no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

GOŁĄBKI

Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz IV fed his army quinn.anya, flicker.com, CC BY-SA 2.0 gołąbki before a battle against the Teutonic Order, and their unlikely victory has been attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

GOLONKA

Bigos

84 Kraków In Your Pocket

Pork knuckle or hock, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish delicacy, the boiled, braised or roasted meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Go caveman.

Traditional Polish Dishes KOTLET SCHABOWY

Probably the most popular lunch/ supper in Poland is the almighty ‘schabowy’ with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, and you can walk into almost restaurant in the country and be assured of its presence on the menu (if the kitchen hasn’t run out of it already). Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a Saturday or Sunday morning by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the collective sound of every housewife in Poland tenderising the meat for this meal with a spiky mallet. So best mind your manners.

PIEROGI

Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawberries or plums, though if you nose around you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are served almost everywhere in the city.

PLACKI ZIEMNIACZANE

These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to Jewish latkes, and may be served simply with sour cream, or as a hefty meal smothered in mushroom sauce or goulash. Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

ZUPA (SOUP)

Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with potatoes and veggies tossed in, with a croquette or miniature pierogi floating in it, or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking (‘barszcz solo’). A recommended alternative to other beverages with any winter meal, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Kraków. It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg chucked in, and often served in a bread bowl. krakow.inyourpocket.com

4 Polish Alcohols You Have to Try …plus several others that also work… 86 Kraków In Your Pocket

Polish Alcohol VODKA TRANSLATOR

The crimson monogamy cure known as Wiśniówka.

1. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA

Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. Though it comes in a variety of flavours, the original orange label (‘tradycyny’) is an aged, amber-coloured liquor flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa has a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything you’re likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, we prefer it on ice.

2. ŻUBRÓWKA

One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka - also known as Bison Grass Vodka - has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to the primeval Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste which has been described as ‘floral’ or having traces of almond or vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka’ or ‘szarlotka’ depending where you are.

3. KRUPNIK

Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet liquor made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking booze doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added.

4. MIÓD PITNY

Mead, or ‘drinkable honey,’ preceded beer’s arrival in Poland and has remained a favourite since the Middle Ages. Since 2008, Polish meads have been protected under EU law as a traditional regional specialty. Distilled from honey, the drink is extremely easy to consume and comes in four strengths with Połtorak being the strongest (15-18%).

Proven masters of make-do with the potato as their primary resource, the Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world, many of which date back centuries. The two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mixing in cocktails, the real fun is in sampling Poland’s flavoured vodkas and nalewki - a more general term applied to a large range of Polish liqueurs and aged tinctures made from vodka or neutral spirits and fruits, herbs and spices. Here are just some of the more notable varieties you can request at the bar or alcohol shop. Wiśniówka - cherry vodka Cytrynówka - lemon vodka Pigwówka - quince vodka Orzechówka - walnut vodka Piołunówka - wormwood liquor Wódka figowa - fig vodka Wódka śliwkowa - plum vodka Wódka gruszkowa - pear vodka

HOT BEER? Though the Polish winter is famous for being long and brutal, fear not, the Poles have a method for taking the bite out of this blustery season, and as you can probably guess - it’s alcohol (congratulations, Kowalski). For those in need of a warm-up that wince at the thought of vodka, we have two words for you: hot beer, or ‘grzane piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas present, and others still an utter profanity. Regardless, it’s a necessary invention and a must-try (at least once) for anyone travelling in PL during the winter months. Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ - or mulled wine - as you’ll notice by the barrel-shaped stands selling cups of it on the market square during December’s Christmas fair. The popular regional brand is Grzaniec Galicyjski and if you enjoy drinking it in public so much, you’ll be delighted to discover you can buy it in almost any alcohol shop and easily prepare it at home as well. Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...and Na zdrowie! krakow.inyourpocket.com

Cafés

Cafe Nakielny (p.89).

Kraków is infamous for its cafe culture which easily rivals that of celebrated capitals like Paris and Vienna, perhaps even outmatching them pound for pound. In fact, it was a famous Pole - Jerzy Kulczycki - who opened the first coffeehouse in Vienna. Kraków’s Kazimierz district is particularly known for its atmospheric cafes, filled with candlelight, antiques and Old World mystique. Most Cracovian cafes also serve alcohol and the line between cafe and bar can be a blurry one indeed. The venues we’ve listed here tend to favour coffee and cakes over beer and booze and when most cafe/bar establishments are turning up the music for their ‘til last guest’ clientele, these are more often closing their doors. BONJOUR CAVA This well-admired, local chain of cafes has infiltrated Tytano to give the grungy, post-industrial party complex a place for earlybirds, cakelovers, laptoppers and quicheaters. The charmingly eclectic, chapeau-tipping design succeeds in creating a cosy space to relax, work or refuel. On offer is excellent coffee, ice cream, savoury pies and frittatas, French pastries, daily lunch specials and a dangerous display case of desserts. As this is Tytano, there’s plenty of seasonal seating outside, and they also serve wine. Exactly what a cafe should be, you’ll also find them at ul. Piłsudskiego 5 (H-6) and ul. Brodzińskiego 4 (K-10).QG‑4/5, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10/7C, tel. (+48) 790 22 88 43, www.bonjourcava.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri 09:00 - 22:30, Sat 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. 6W 88 Kraków In Your Pocket

BUNKIER CAFE Attached to Kraków’s best contemporary art gallery, this enclosed terrace bar/cafe on the Planty resembles a spacious greenhouse wherein the plants have been replaced with couples, happy hour colleagues and English teachers giving private lessons around wobbly tables and chairs, and a sandbox for kids to dig through in summer. A year-round pleasure (thanks to plenty of heaters), the space is judiciously divided between smoking and non, and they now offer a full menu of delicious food that’s served late; in fact the inviting atmosphere is marred only by the slow to completely negligent table service that unfortunately can’t be circumnavigated.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 3A, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 85, www.bunkiercafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. XB6W CAFE MŁYNEK For many years the best cafe south of ulica Józefa (before ul. Mostowa and Podgórze began to develop), Cafe Młynek is a great escape from the bustle of Plac Nowy - particularly when the sunny outdoor seating on Plac Wolnica is open; while still retaining the artsy, bohemian spirit of Kazimierz. Młynek is also one of only a half dozen establishments in Kraków serving gluten-free and vegan eats, including a big vegan breakfast, homemade hummus and Jewish latkes. Recommended.QK‑9, Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 62 02. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. T6 W

Cafés CAFE NAKIELNY This spacious, modern cafe and bakery has a lot to offer anyone looking for a caffeine fix, sweet tooth satisfier, or pleasant place to pull out the laptop. ‘Monocakes’ delicious personal-sized desserts you wouldn’t dare share - are the latest trendy food term, and Nakielny has row after row of these colourful creations filling their display counter, plus sandwiches and savoury phyllo pastries, pralines, macaroons, shakes and some of the best ice cream in town. Beautifully designed (and smartly branded), with a clean aesthetic and comfortable armchairs, this is just a great place to pass time. Also a second location in the very centre at ul. Szewska 27 (B-3).QJ‑4, ul. Basztowa 15, tel. (+48) 882 59 13 25, www.nakielny.pl. Open 06:00 - 21:30, Sat 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. TW

BREAKFAST

CAMELOT Let a blissful day unravel before you amid a collection of tiny tables, squeaking floorboards and watercolours pinned to white walls. Owlish academics mingle with local stage celebrities and braying tourists inside what is no less than a city institution. An extensive menu features breakfast, salads, pastas, desserts and plenty of warm local liquors, and the elevated seat in the window may be the most romantic spot in town. A cultural institution, the famous Loch Camelot theatre group performs their delightfully strange, antiquated and always endearing brand of cabaret in the basement on weekends (check lochcamelot.art.pl for times and prices). Recommended all around.QJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 17, tel. (+48) 12 421 01 23. Open 09:00 - 24:00. NI6W

BAGELMAMA Kazimierz’s favourite bagel spot, served as you like it all day from a wide range of sweet or savoury spreads and toppings, whether your style is hummus and sprouts or egg, bacon and cheddar.QL‑8, ul. Dajwór 10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16 46. Open 09:00 - 17:00. €. T6W

CAWA CAFE & WINE Next door to Drukarnia, this small, friendly neighbourhood hangout from the same team as Camelot was a pioneer in revitalising Old Podgórze’s riverfront. An ideal meeting place for coffee, brunch, wine or a bite to eat, the casual atmosphere of the intimate interior spills onto the sidewalk on sunny days. The menu offers delicious breakfast options (Eggs Benedict, poached eggs with smoked salmon and avocado toast), plus snails, shrimp and a unique assortment of French, Japanese and Italian-inspired dishes.QL‑10, ul. Nadwiślańska 1/6 (Podgórze), tel. (+48) 691 74 11 98, www.cawacafe.pl. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Sat 09:30 - 24:00, Sun 09:30 - 22:00. W CUPCAKE CORNER BAKERY The haute cupcake trend has spread to Kraków, and this cheerful American-style bakery and cafe couldn’t be more authentic if it was run by Martha Stewart herself. Offering 16 different, rotating cupcake flavours each day, choose from delicious creations like Peanut Butter Brownie, Sunny Orange and Red Velvet, plus vegan options. But cupcakes are only part of the game - start your day with a fresh-baked bagel slathered in one of their flavoured cream cheeses, and don’t miss their all-natural, artisanal ice cream and milkshakes. Also at ul. Szewska 22 (I-5), ul. Grodzka 48 (J6) and ul. Michałowskiego 14 (H-4).QI‑6, ul. Bracka 4, tel. (+48) 12 341 42 72, www.cupcakecorner.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. TUW

The mighty ‘San Francisco’ from Forum

CHARLOTTE. CHLEB I WINO In Charlotte early risers will find great coffee, fresh bread, pastries, breakfast sets (served all day) and a wonderful atmosphere. High ceilinged and full of natural light this Parisian-style cafe/bakery is a great place to read the paper, open the laptop or slowly unwind the day ahead of you.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 600 80 78 80, www.bistrocharlotte.pl. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. €. B6W FORUM PRZESTRZENIE One of the best in town, Forum’s morning menu (served until 13:00) includes the awesome ‘San Francisco’ breakfast of frankfurters, toast with turkey, a fried egg, sweet corn, bacon and pancakes for only 22zł. As if you need more, there’s also scrambled eggs with add-ins, oatmeal with fresh fruit, vegan and gluten-free options.QI‑10, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28, tel. (+48) 515 42 47 24, www.forumprzestrzenie. com. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. €. BW RANNY PTASZEK This brilliant ‘breakfast bar’ combines the classic American diner with the modern Brooklyn brunchery. Healthy, affordable and served super fast, compose your own meal from shaksouka, Hungarian sausage, patatas bravas, pickled veggies, hummus and more, or go for one of their sandwiches or salads. Unfortunately, space is super limited, so enjoy this pleasure with just your sweetheart, because the whole fam won’t fit.QJ‑8, ul. Augustiańska 5, tel. (+48) 517 65 62 46. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. €. 6W krakow.inyourpocket.com

Cafés E. WEDEL CHOCOLATE LOUNGE This elegant ‘chocolate lounge’ offers a superb collection of confectionery courtesy of Wedel - Poland’s best-loved chocolate brand. Find chocolates, cakes and pralines of every description, plus rich hot chocolate drinks you can practically stand a spoon in - all of it every bit as sweet and delightful as the aproned girls that serve it. The regal interiors are worthy of this kingdom of temptation and include a glass ceiling, balcony, and portraits of Wedel’s founding fathers. A perfect place to spoil your sweetheart, or reward the kids.QJ‑5, Rynek Główny 46, tel. (+48) 12 429 40 85, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. TU6W FRANKIE’S We’re not ones to sign on for the latest health fads (until binge drinking becomes an acknowledged ‘cleanse diet’), but this trendy, modern juice bar is a breath of fresh air in smoggy Kraków. Choose from a variety of juice and shake concoctions (like the ‘Green Sky’ cocktail made from spinach, pineapple and apple, which every second person orders), or create your own from the assortment of fresh fruit and veggies on hand. This is hardly a headquarters just for joggers and yoga instructors, however. Frankie’s achieves mass appeal with free wifi, delicious coffee, sandwiches and salads in addition to their hangover cures. QJ‑6, ul. Stolarska 11, tel. (+48) 736 24 08 12, www. frankies.pl. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 20:00. 6W METAFORMA DESIGN CAFE Enviably located directly under Wawel Castle on the Wisła riverbanks, this hip, family-friendly (dog-friendly, too!) cafe has created an attractive intersection for art, culture and design. In addition to delicious coffee, local beers, ciders and wine, and some tasty vegan and vegetarian dishes, Metaforma quadruples as a shop, gallery, and furniture showroom, promoting Polish artists and designers specialising in crafty, eco-friendly home decor, furnishings and books. With plenty of space and a sunny seasonal patio out front, this is really more than you could ever hope for from a cafe that would have plenty of business without half the effort thanks to their location.QI‑7, ul. Powiśle 11, tel. (+48) 511 55 94 22. Open 09:30 - 22:00. TU6W NIEBIESKIE MIGDAŁY (BLUE ALMONDS) A cute, modern cafe where you can tell everything has been well-considered, and they offer more than most: creamy soups (served in a mug), hot sandwiches, eggs and omelettes, delicious coffee and tea, smoothies, select wines and local craft beer, and a cake display stocked with shockingly good sweets. Located at a major transit point just off the Royal Route, with a pleasant atmosphere, large streetside windows and gentle music, this is a great place to grab a bite, work and relax.QI‑6, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 11, tel. (+48) 730 05 55 00. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 09:30 - 21:00. S6W 90 Kraków In Your Pocket

NOWA PROWINCJA (THE NEW PROVINCE) Prized for its enduringly old school Cracovian atmosphere of sepia candlelight, ribald laughter and literary blather, this stellar coffee bar is primarily furnished with chatting friends enjoying delicious coffee and maybe the best hot chocolate in town - so thick you can stand a spoon in it, or getting an early start on the evening’s brew-ha-ha. Among the quirks is a door buzzer, the pushing of which induces famous Cracovian poets of past and present to read their works through the speaker.QI‑6, ul. Bracka 3-5, tel. (+48) 12 430 59 59. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. TS6W SWOJĄ DROGĄ NEW Right along the river in Podgórze you’ll find this laidback literary retreat specialising in brunch and books. There’s a friendly international vibe here, with seven breakfast sets inspired by various cultures (including English brekkie, Scandinavian, Arabic), and bookshelves segregated by country (though sadly all books are in Polish). They also offer omelettes, oatmeal, sandwiches, shakshuka and waffles (savoury or sweet), and in addition to coffee there’s a selection of hipster soft drinks (including yerba mate and kombucha), plus wine and craft beer despite the early closing time. Perfect for tucking into a book, late breakfast or laptop business.QL‑10, ul. Nadwiślańska 5/1, tel. (+48) 535 19 88 89, www.swojadrogakrakow.pl. Open 08:00 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00. TU6 TEKTURA Seemingly transplanted from Brooklyn, Tektura solidifies the case for Krupnicza being the Old Town’s coolest street, while getting their name in the talk over Kraków’s best coffee. A point of pride for the baristas, in addition to being espresso and AeroPress experts, the staff are up for any kind of coffee challenge you can give them. There’s an entire shelf of enticing microbrews, a cocktail list and a full range of fresh sandwiches, salads and sweet baked goods to boot. Sporting an eco-industrial-chic interior, Tektura also provides plenty of outlets to laptoppers, reliable wifi, boardgames and basically everything you could ever ask from a cafe/bar. Also a small location on Stary Kleparz at ul. Paderewskiego 4 (J-4).QH‑5, ul. Krupnicza 7, tel. (+48) 797 82 78 07. Open 08:00 - 21:00. 6W WESOŁA CAFE With a slightly industrial art studio interior featuring refurbed Bauhaus lamps and neon signage, this urbanite cafe exudes Brooklyn cool while advancing to the vanguard of Cracovian coffee culture. Lovers of liquid eye-opener can choose from an array of beans and brewing styles, and the boffo baristas take extra care to prepare each cuppa in fact ordering is akin to enrolling in a course on coffee connoisseurship. The atmosphere remains effortlessly laidback however, overcoming a bit of an offbeat location to stay stoked with well-groomed hipsters and stake a claim as of one Kraków’s best cafes.QL‑4, ul. Rakowicka 17, tel. (+48) 513 93 28 10, www.wesolacafe.pl. Open 07:00 21:00; Sat, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. UW

Polish Desserts Few things in life get a Pole more animated than a good dessert. Known for not being too sweet, the classic Polski desserts below can be purchased in any ‘cukiernia’ (pastry shop) and in most cafes. Of course no such list would be complete without pączki, but you can read all about them on page 83.

KREMÓWKA A cream pie made of two thin layers of puff pastry filled with vanilla custard cream and often topped with powdered sugar. One of our favourite Polish treats, kremówka was popularised across PL by the late Pope John Paul II, who made the mistake of offhandedly commenting about eating cream cakes once in his hometown of Wadowice, thus creating a cottage industry in the small town 50km southwest of Kraków almost overnight. PIERNIKI Polish gingerbread, or pierniki, comes in many varieties, but the most famous is Toruńskie Pierniki, which have been produced in the northern town of Toruń since the Middle Ages. Slightly soft, chewy and flavoured with honey, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, cardamom, nutmeg, anise and lavender, these small gingerbread cookies can be glazed with sugar, covered in chocolate or filled with marmalade. Pick some up in Kraków’s Kopernik shop (p.131). SERNIK Polish for ‘cheesecake,’ sernik is one of the country’s most popular desserts and you’ll have a hard time convincing any Pole you’ve been to their country if you don’t try it. Made with a sweet curd cheese (twaróg) and served cold, there are plenty of variations, including those with raisins, gelatin or chocolate sauce. Every Polish family has a sernik specialist whose job it is to bring one of these delicious cakes to holiday gatherings and get-togethers. SZARLOTKA Any Pole will tell you that the best apples in the world come from Poland (just nod in agreement), and Polish apple pie is a standard served almost everywhere you go. Made with shortbread and often topped with a crumble, the apples are typically tart and flavoured with cinnamon and cloves. Though perhaps not the most original confectionary creation, is there really anything more comforting than apple pie? Smacznego. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Zen & the Art of Sushi Madness (p.95).

The number of places to eat in Kraków is now extremely wide, and though the city’s most refined restaurants are still waiting for starry-eyed acceptance from a certain French tyre company, Kraków’s culinary rep is most definitely on the rise. For proof, look no further than the fact that Kraków is the first city to receive the prestigious title ‘European Capital of Gastronomic Culture 2019’ - take that, Michelin. There are certainly more good restaurants in Kraków than you could ever possibly fit into one trip, so fear not, you won’t have to eat tyres. While our print guide carries a wide selection of Kraków’s most noteworthy restaurants, there are many, many more listed on our website (iyp.me/krakow), where we encourage you to leave your own comments. All IYP reviews are updated regularly, completely subjective and unsolicited. The opening hours we list are given to us by the restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when you can expect the chef to be working. Smacznego! SPLURGE The debate over Kraków’s ‘best restaurant’ is an extremely contentious and constantly shifting one. In the conversation at this moment are Szara Gęś (p.109), Pod Aniołami (p.106) and Copernicus (p.98), as well as newcomer Art Restaurant (p.104) - which just won a prestigious award. LADS Take up a stein and feast like a king for pauper prices in Stara Zajezdnia (p.119) or Restauracja Sukiennice (p.108), or to literally receive a bib with your food, order the outstanding ribs at Rzeźnia (p.94). 92 Kraków In Your Pocket

CHEAP A milk bar (p.82) is as cheap as you’ll eat anywhere in your life, or head to Smakołyki (p.108) for budget Polish food with an actual atmosphere. If you’re not a fan of Polish cuisine, Chimera (p.98), Alchemia (p.98) and Bunkier (p.98) offer great value and ambiance, or head to a Food Truck park (p.83). FAMILIES & GROUPS Slowly but surely, more places in Kraków now have things like changing tables, high chairs, and play corners - look for the Child-Friendly symbol T at the end of each listing. If you’re travelling in a large group, Cargo (p.93), Boccanera (p.100) and Stara Zajezdnia (p.119) can accommodate, or just forget the formalities and go for pizza in the spacious Hala Główna (p.114). COUPLES Kraków is a marvellous backdrop for romance and you shouldn’t have to search far for ‘the perfect place.’ Making a reservation is imperative in this town however, especially on weekends. Put a call in to Karakter (p.99), Pod Nosem (p.106), Bianca (p.100) or Euskadi (p.109) and let the atmosphere do the rest. iNTERNATIONAL CUISINE Already had enough Polish food? Euskadi (Basque, p.109), Tao and Zen (Asian, p.95) are all among the city’s best restaurants, Hamsa (p.103) offers contemporary Israeli cuisine, and Zazie Bistro (French, p.97) has garnered awards for being one of the best values in town.

Restaurants SYMBOL & PRICE KEY 6 Animal friendly

C‑1 Map Coordinate

T Child-friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

W Wi-fi connection X Smoking room available o Year-Round Garden

€ €€ €€€ €€€€ €€€€€

most mains under 25zł most mains 25-45zł most mains 45-75zł most mains 75-115zł most mains over 115zł

AMERICAN CARGO GRILL & DELI Front and centre at Tytano, this big, bustling upscale American steakhouse angles for tourists and large groups over local hipsters. The post-industrial design of chunky wooden tables, firehouse red fixtures and fittings, plus a timber terrace out front, achieves a certain smartness by the sheer volume of poised, professional greeters and waitstaff on hand. Keep things within reason with a burger (30zł+), or push the boat out with a dry-aged steak (80zł+); in between you’ll find a nice goose fillet, some unique pierogi and an extensive wine list. Whether or not Cargo achieves the status of a top restaurant, it certainly operates like one, which is a first step well taken.QG‑4, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10/2, tel. (+48) 12 686 55 22, www.cargokrakow. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 22:00. €€€. T6W GRANDE GRILL Contrasting with the inflexible traditionalism of Wierzynek, this fresher effort from the same team behind Kraków’s most famous restaurant offers more modern styling and cuisine. The patio garden packed with plants hanging from timber beams is one of the best in town, and a stylish indoor dining area and live sports on the tele offer extra motivation for a visit. The menu is a simple selection of steaks, salads and burgers, all expertly made-to-order with the kind of service you would expect from the city’s most established restaurateurs.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 21, www.grandegrill.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€. TUoW MOO MOO STEAK & BURGER CLUB On first glance this ‘club’ looks exclusive indeed, with runway waitresses, collared clientele and a minimal, modern monochromatic interior more ideal for a romantic date than spreading your face over a beef patty (and vice versa). The menu reveals an array of refined options from salmon to shrimp, with a bigger emphasis on choice steaks than their burgers - which when cut in half would actually krakow.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants pass for two burgers in most places. The reasonable prices and random music make Moo Moo a lot less pretentious than it first appears, and it’s a place we enjoy coming back to. Now also a second location on Mały Rynek (ul. Sienna 9, J-6).QJ‑5, ul. Świętego Krzyża 15, tel. (+48) 531 00 70 97, www.moomoo.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. UW

+ 48 12 422 20 53

MOO MOO STEAK & WINE With an enviable location right on Mały Rynek, this modern steakhouse’s classy comportment and casual atmosphere make it a popular choice for dinner parties and dating couples. The steaks are tender and juicy, but the burgers seem to be the consumers’ consensus for best value. Served on oblong buns and conveniently cut in half, it’s easy to swap and share, but we’ll tell you right now - the burger with camembert, pear and carmelised onion is the best. If you’re not a shameless carnivore, opt for the excellent grilled tenderloin salad and a glass of red wine from among their almost one hundred vintages. Second location at ul. Św. Krzyża 15 (J-5).QJ‑6, ul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12 422 20 53, www.moomoo.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. TW MR. PANCAKE & PIZZA BOYZ A temple to American overindulgence, Mr. Pancake goes all-in with a diet-busting menu of debilitating pancakes, pizzas and smoothies. This territory has been trod before, but Mr. Pancake takes it to new extremes of caloric possibility, incorporating American ‘food’ products like Marshmallow Fluff, Froot Loops and Aunt Jemima’s syrup into menu inventions like Fluffer Nutter and Freeky Fluo pancakes. The pizzas are just as outrageous with toppings like chilli con carne, mac n’ cheese, nachos and popcorn, and no matter what you order, we’re pretty sure it’ll end up on your Instagram account. Adjoining is a bar serving up equally over-the-top shots and drinks like the vodka and Haribo cocktail.QH‑5, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10/1B, tel. (+48) 664 09 11 09, www.mrpancake.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 22:00. €€. o6W

+ 48 531 007 097

94 Kraków In Your Pocket

RZEŹNIA - RIBS ON FIRE This small ‘meatery’ offers a concise menu of carnivore cravings - tartare, Black Angus burgers, ribeye steaks and ribs, with sides of fries and slaw, and a good selection of bottled beers. Though that sounds like something you’d find written on the side of a food truck, this place has class than that with a red-flecked interior that looks could pass for a Spanish tapas bar in a pinch. Order the ribs (no, really - order the ribs) and you get the entire rack, not a sawn-off section, and we guarantee you’ll be sucking the bones clean. The coleslaw is also the best we’ve had in this cabbage crazy country. Tuck in your bib (they’ll provide you with one) and give this a try. Also in the Old Town at Plac Dominikański 2 (J-6). QK‑8, ul. Bożego Ciała 14, tel. (+48) 12 430 62 96, www.restauracjarzeznia.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. W

Restaurants

ASIAN HURRY CURRY Though the name suggests a takeaway window or food truck, this surprising slow food franchise has been a hit in Katowice and their Kraków locale features a large, open and appealing interior with multiple terraces and a full menu of Indian/Asian eats. Essentially an encyclopaedia of world curries, choose from over 20 varieties varying in spice quotient and country of origin, plus other signature world dishes like Tom Yum and Beef Rendang, and beers from Thailand, China, Vietnam and Japan. With so much menu to explore and everything super affordable, multiple visits are almost a given, and unlike most curry establishments, rice actually comes included with your meal.QJ‑5, ul. Szpitalna 9 (entrance from ul. Św.Tomasza), tel. (+48) 728 42 82 26, www.hurrycurry.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€. TU6W TAJ Spacious and filled with a tasteful assortment of plants, artwork and lanterns, Taj definitely caters to more European tastes, but the food is nevertheless delicious and a huge improvement over what was previously the only exclusively Thai restaurant in town, Samui. Choose from satay, spring rolls, tom yum, papaya salad, different coloured curries, Thai basil chicken, pad thai, stirfried tofu with cashews, mango with sticky rice and other Thai favourites. Vegetarian and omnivore lunch sets are served 12:0016:00 Mon-Fri and cost a measly 22zł.QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 19, tel. (+48) 12 307 07 23. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€. T6W

TAO THAI & SUSHI This trendy Japanese and Thai bistro in Podgórze (just over the lovely Bernatek footbridge) is smart and stylish, and features an amazing seasonal garden, which lures in the after-work drinks crowd (try the plum wine!), but also caters to kids with swinging seats and several fluffy rabbits literally hopping about between the tables. The expansive, expert menu features standards such as edamame, dim sum, Thai curry, pad thai and tempura, as well as their own specialties like the tasty Tempura Burger. All of it is absolutely delicious, and an able aid for the night’s aims, whether it’s business, romance or simple relaxation.QK‑10, ul. Józefińska 4, tel. (+48) 725 88 03 04, www.taogarden.pl. Open 12:00 22:00. €€€. TUo6W ZEN RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR Zen outdoes the Asian competition with a first floor sushi canal where customers snare their desired servings as they float by; dishes are colour-coded by cost so you can keep vague tabs on your inflating tab, or pay 88zł Mon-Fri between 12:00 and 17:00 to eat as much as you can. On the more formal second floor to dine ala carte on traditional floor mats. The menu makes an ironic effort not to pander to purists, but rather create an amalgam of European and Asian tastes with dishes like duck marinated in orange and cinnamon served with teriyaki sauce. QJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 29, tel. (+48) 12 426 55 55, www.zensushi. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. 6W krakow.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants BALKAN BALKAN EXPRESS GRILL Drop into this budget Balkan eatery hidden in a large courtyard off of Floriańska for traditional specialties like ćevapi (sausage) sandwiches and tasty pljeskavica burgers slathered in ajvar and served in their own fresh-baked buns. Thanks to their huge garden and street food appeal, its a bit of a trendy spot with locals looking a fast, budget meal that’s not a sketchy kebab, or just a beer in the sunshine. BEG’s meats are sourced locally and they’ve now started offering Polish grilled meat platters for those unable to quell their blood sausage cravings. Open early for breakfast (07:00 - 10:00) - not the easiest thing to find on Floraińska before 09:00.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 39, tel. (+48) 730 33 32 22, www.balkanexpressgrill.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:00. €€. 6W

FRENCH Restauracja Cyrano de Bergerac ul. Sławkowska 26, Kraków +48 12 411 72 88 cyranodebergerac.com.pl

Restauracja Leonardo ul. Szpitalna 20-22, Kraków +48 12 429 68 50 leonardo.com.pl

96 Kraków In Your Pocket

BISTRO BAZAAR Designed with a warm, vaguely industrial aesthetic, this bistro & bar à vin is one of the smartest locales on Plac Nowy. The focus is on the drink of the gods and everything that goes well with it: homemade bread, cheese plates, olives and bolder options like pork lard, fried blood sausage, goose pâté and tongue in horseradish (get in the French spirit!). Bistro dishes include French onion soup, escargots on roasted bone marrow, coq au vin and ratatouille. Breakfast is offered until 12:00, followed by a 30zł lunch special (Mon-Sat 12:00 - 17:00) that includes a glass of wine.QK‑8, ul. Meiselsa 24, tel. (+48) 797 42 20 02, www.bazaarbistro.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €€. 6W CYRANO DE BERGERAC Located in the magnificent brick cellars of an Old Town tenement house, Cyrano instantly established itself as one of Kraków’s finest restaurants upon opening back in 1997. The vaulted ceilings are actually so high they put a second level in to create the cosy, candlelit atmosphere it’s become known for, in addition to the white glove service and excellence of dishes like their beef tartare, foie gras and lobster. Against a romantic backdrop of authentic antiques and tapestries, if you’re going to commit splurgery while in town, there are few better places to do it, and that’s a fact consistently recognised by the Michelin Guide, among others.QJ‑4, ul. Sławkowska 26, tel. (+48) 12 411 72 88, www.cyranodebergerac.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. TW LEONARDO Making a shift to French cuisine, Leonardo has vaulted itself into conversations about Kraków’s best restaurants, and by our judgement they’ve earned their place. Upon entry a fleet of finely-dressed gentlemen alight upon you, leading you to a suitable table in one of several tastefully decorated dining rooms, including one with a replica of da Vinci’s flying machine overhead. What proceeds is the kind of five-

Restaurants star fine dining experience that hearkens back to a stately elegance missing from most modern restaurants. We recommend ordering a bottle of white wine and any of the fresh seafood dishes (our scallops were outstanding), but the kitchen hits the mark with everything from lobster to wild game. A look at the other tables reveals that Leonardo is an ideal choice for romance or impressing business associates.QJ‑5, ul. Szpitalna 20-22, tel. (+48) 12 429 68 50, www.leonardo.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed from January 1, 2019. €€€€. TUW ZAZIE BISTRO This casual Kazimierz eatery is the closest thing Kraków has to a true Parisian bistro - complete with classic set meals (appetiser, entree, dessert) for an affordable 31zł (Tue-Fri only), cheese soufflé, fantastic crème brûlée and large slices of quiche. Set over two levels, the ground floor tries its luck at looking like a Parisian sidewalk terrace with a wall-length mural of France’s famous phallus, interior streetlights and even a candy-striped roll-out canopy over one table; head to the cellar for a more romantic atmosphere of candlelight and wine racks. With the head chef racking up culinary awards, this is a great place to experience outstanding French cuisine without a whiff of snobbery, and an excellent value for your money.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 34, tel. (+48) 500 41 08 29, www.zaziebistro.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€. T6W

ul. Beliny Prażmowskiego 2 D Rondo Mogilskie

INDIAN

275+ restaurant reviews online: krakow.inyourpocket.com

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INDUS TANDOOR Kraków’s oldest Indian restaurant, Indus Tandoor essentially set a new, higher standard for the city’s ethnic eateries when it opened way back in 1998. Full of reds, golds, greens and lotus patterns, the slim interior and canopied patio are bursting with colour, and the near constant people filing in and out speaks to the high quality of the food, prepared by Indian chefs. Try the business lunch specials (Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00, 17.50zł) for a fantastic value and variety.QJ‑5, ul. Sławkowska 13-15, tel. (+48) 12 423 22 82, www.indus. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€. W

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INDIA MASALA As a mainstay anchoring Mały Rynek, this authentic effort from the same team behind Kraków’s top Indian eatery features popular patio seating and a classy, colourful interior infused with the scent of cardamom from the kitchen and sweet tobacco from the exotic hookah bar in the basement. The name may be India Masala, but the menu represents a wide range of regions across India with delicious dishes well-explained in English and wellpresented in traditional metal bowls.QJ‑5, Mały Rynek 2-3, tel. (+48) 12 421 47 56, www.indiamasala.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. 6W

M AS A

Mały Rynek 2-3, 31-041 Krakow

reservations +48 12 4214756, mail: manager@indiamasala.pl

www.indiamasala.pl

krakow.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants QUICK EATS Here we list the local alternatives to the fast food franchises you might be familiar with from back home (if it’s the ‘Golden Arches’ you’re looking for you’re on your own). Note that Kazimierz is a Mecca for fast street food, with zapiekanki dispensed daily from Plac Nowy, and the food truck movement finding its home on Skwer Judah and ul. Dajwór (p.83). For more fast dining options, get adventurous by visiting a local milk bar (p.82) or Vodka & Herring Bar (p.82). CHIMERA SALAD BAR Sealed off from the elements, this gorgeous courtyard buffet overflows with ambience year round. Full of potted plants, natural sunlight and surrealistic murals, Chimera’s popular salad bar may be the most pleasant budget dining environment in town. Overwhelmingly vegetarian, while it might not be the best food in town, it is fast, cheap and exceedingly easy for foreigners simply say ‘proszę’ and point at your pick of the salads, quiche, stuffed vegetables and more. Recommended. QI‑5, ul. Św. Anny 3, tel. (+48) 12 292 12 12, www. chimera.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 22:00. €. 6W MAZAYA FALAFEL After years of kebab stands pretending to serve falafel (“we just ran out”), Kraków finally has an authentic, outstanding chain of falafel shops, thanks to none other than the most dreaded bogeyman in all of Europe: Syrian migrants . This is the real deal: delicious falafel, hummus in which you can actually taste tahini, baba ghanoush, pomegranate sauce, pickled veggies and more - available in an array of pita wraps and platters (our go-to is the Rummen wrap). Finally. Also at ul. Legionów Piłsudskiego 2 (K-10) and ul. Grzegorzecka 40 (M-6).QK‑6, ul. Starowiślna 10, tel. (+48) 534 92 51 35, www.mazaya-falafel.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. €. 6W PIZZATOPIA This casual and cleverly branded pizza joint on bustling ul. Szewska lets you ‘Build Your Own’ pie for a flat 24zł - with no limit on ingredients. Choose between the classic or multigrain version of their light, chewy crust, and then from four base sauces, seven different types of cheese (including vegan mozzarella), six kinds of meat, over a dozen veggies, and a dozen finishing sauces. Fast and fired for less than 3 minutes, the menu also includes a few of their own creations, fresh salads, craft beers, and their own sodas. A brilliant concept that’s love at first bite, don’t be surprised to see this franchised all over PL in the coming years.QI‑5, ul. Szewska 22, tel. (+48) 570 06 51 95, www.pizzatopia. com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €€. o6W 98 Kraków In Your Pocket

PARAMPARA INDIAN CUISINE & CULTURE Meaning ‘tradition’ in Hindi, Parampara sets out to combine ‘Polish hospitality with Indian cuisine’ in a way that sets them apart from their competition. The interior design isn’t what one typically finds in Indian restaurants in Europe - instead of heavy tablecloths and ornate decorations, you’ll find simple furniture and colourful murals reminiscent of traditional Indian architecture. More important, though, is the menu, offering not only standard faves, but also less common dishes like kalija fry (chicken liver with fenugreek and coriander), Kashmiri lamb kofta and Bengali shrimp malai curry. There’s even a milder children’s menu, and yes, the chef is Indian (and very skilled). Pop in for lunch (Mon-Fri 12:00 - 17:00) to try an assortment of small dishes for only 18zł (vegetarian) or 22zł (omnivore). QK‑7, ul. Starowiślna 36, tel. (+48) 575 83 20 20, www.parampara. com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€. TU6W

INTERNATIONAL ALCHEMIA OD KUCHNI An extension of the legendary bar of the same name, Alchemia od Kuchni serves a spot-on menu of sit-down street food, burgers, vegetarian eats and eclectic entrees including fresh fish, curries and more. Open late and also open early, the simple, white tile and brick aesthetic is reminiscent of NYC or Copenhagen’s meatpacking districts, the prices won’t divest you of your beer money, and the service is light years ahead of the bar next door. Rather than just cashing in on the location and crowds, the team behind Od Kuchnia obviously cares, making it possibly our favourite thing about Alchemia these days.QK‑8, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 882 04 42 99, www.odkuchni.com. Open 08:00 23:00, Mon 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. €€. 6W BUNKIER CAFE This veteran crossover venue - essentially an enormous year-round terrace on the Planty - continues to be the same perfect place for an early morning paper read, afternoon coffee and cigarette, after-work drink, casual first date, conversational English lesson, or people-watching piwo that it has been since we first published this guide. In addition to good coffee and cakes, however, Bunkier has gone bistro and now offers some of the best budget eats in the area. Drop in for breakfast until 12:00, after which tuck in to tasty burgers, bagel sandwiches, a yummy pulled pork sandwich, fish and chips, salads and more. As a result, we spend more time there now than ever before.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 3A, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 85, www.bunkiercafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. €€. Xo6W COPERNICUS Inside one of Kraków’s most exclusive hotels you’ll find one of its most exclusive restaurants, with high-class service inside an elegant gothic interior that features original frescoes. Copernicus is enthusiastically awarded each year, and its gourmet cuisine has been enjoyed by Nobel Prize winners (Miłosz, Szymborska) and political dignitaries (Vaclav Havel, Helmut Kohl) alike. The menu changes every month and is kept simple by Chef Marcin Filipkiewicz who offers a

Restaurants tasting menu of amazing seasonal flavours; choose between 5 (220zł), 7 (300zł) or 12 courses (430zł). At Copernicus you get what you pay for, making it easy to recommend for those on a royal budget.QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 34 21, www.copernicus.hotel. com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. TW KARAKTER Whatever the magic ingredient is for a successful restaurant, there’s little doubt that Karakter has it. The retro modern interior evoking Miro and Leger possesses a seemingly effortless panache and undeniable appeal. The authorial menu is full of daring dishes that will either make you squirm or salivate. Alongside bull testicle pate, squid tentacles and ostrich gizzards, you’ll find tasty trout ceviche, beef ribs in Guinness sauce, and fresh mussels served eight different ways. Foodies, especially those with buttery-sweet tastes, will be in heaven, though we found some of these inventions are a bit too convoluted. Ideal for a date with wine, the casually dressed staff will assist you in selecting, but make sure you’ve made a reservation if you want a table in this buzzy, ambitious restaurant.QK‑8, ul. Brzozowa 17, tel. (+48) 795 81 81 23. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€. T6W KRAKOWSKIE METRO No, Kraków doesn’t have a metro (yet!), but this budget eatery is located directly over a tunnel to the train station that could someday become part of such a subway. Surrounded by offices and drab academic buildings, this funny little historical building on Rondo Mogilskie is the most alluring thing in sight, offering an oasis from the city outside that also happens to serve rather outstanding Polish and Italian dishes. The thin-crust pizzas are quite good, or be brave and try the beer-basted golonka (pork hocks) - a traditional Polish meal and great value at only 23zł. Join their loyal lunch crowd Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00 for excellent daily offers of soup and your choice of entree for only 19.90zł.QM‑4, Al. Płk. Władysława Beliny Prażmowskiego 2D (Rondo Mogilskie), tel. (+48) 888 80 05 00, www.krakowskiemetro.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€. TUW

THE BEST INDIAN CUISINE IN TOWN

We invite you to enjoy our original Indian dishes. Catering service available. Ul. Sławkowska 13-15, phone: 012 4232282, www.indus.pl, indus@indus.pl Open 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00

PLAC NOWY 1 Located in a new building buttressing Plac Nowy, this project has won over its initial detractors by adapting to its surroundings with elan, while subtly outclassing them. With a spacious modern interior full of natural light and plant life, patrons have their choice between the highceilinged ground floor restaurant, or the new second floor sushi and tapas restaurant; between them lies a club, and there’s even bowling in the basement. The main menu wanders across cuisines to follow recent food trends (fancy burgers, tempura), but includes uniquely modern takes on Polish classics as well, and they put a big emphasis on craft beer, offering regional beer tasting sets. Earning wide approval, this is arguably the nicest place to eat on Plac Nowy.QK‑8, Pl. Nowy 1, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 00, www. placnowy1.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. €€€. TUoW krakow.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants SZARA Enviably located right on the market square, Szara’s reputation as one of the best restaurants in town hasn’t wavered over the years and if you’re looking for a place to impress guests or treat yourself to a special ‘last night in town meal,’ this is a sure bet. Gorgeous, painted ceiling arches, crisp linen and outstanding service create an atmosphere of complete elegance, but Szara manages to avoid the stuffiness suffered by other venues of this ilk. Case in point: their modern and casual bar just next door is a smart place to start the day (breakfast served 08:00-12:00), or enjoy a cocktail in the evening.QJ‑6, Rynek Główny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 69, www.szara.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €€€. UW SZARA KAZIMIERZ Opening after its sister establishment on the Rynek, the second Szara achieved local legend status just as quickly. What makes it so special is not the convenient location on Szeroka, nor the swift and bubbly staff, but the food: nowhere in the city can you eat so well for so little. This is top cuisine - try the daily specials chalked up on the blackboard - yet it comes in at bargain prices. Simple, affordable and very cheerful, all of Kraków should be like this.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12 429 12 19, www.szarakazimierz.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. €€€. I6W TRADYCYJA Though somewhat haunted by the spectres of past incarnations (a pizza oven in the corner goes largely unused), there’s no need to mess with this historic market square locale, which oddly blends old Polish aristocracy with Roman antiquity, including a beautifully painted timber ceiling and an outrageously gaudy chandelier (which we love for just that reason). Like the interior, the simple menu of Polish and Italian dishes seems to have collected the highlights of previous kitchens, but the results cover for the sometimes uneven service, and the prices are well within reason. Keep an ear out for semi-frequent live folk music and dance performances. QI‑6, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 16, www.tradycyja.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. €€€. TU IEW TRZY RYBKI Hotel Stary won an interior design award in 2007 and the interiors of its ace restaurant are no less awe-inspiring, balancing modern style with the expertly preserved details of this ancient building. Serving fine Modern European cuisine with a Polish twist, the menu changes like the seasons - or with them, rather, meaning a steady effort from the kitchen to use the freshest ingredients. Favoured by high-flyers and local business honchos who have been regulars for years, this is a Kraków gem.QI‑5, ul. Szczepańska 5 (Hotel Stary), tel. (+48) 12 384 08 06, www.likusrestauracje.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. U6W 100 Kraków In Your Pocket

ZENIT Zenit’s bar and kitchen seem to be in competition with each other to see which can establish itself as the main draw of this all-around excellent venue. This is the place in Kazimierz for a morning cocktail - the drinks are made using homemade syrups and top shelf liquor, and the expert barmen love a new challenge. The breakfast offer (served 09:00 - 13:00) is full of phenomenal hot dishes, which shift with the seasons like the no-less-amazing entrees that fill out the menu. The prices are unfairly low considering the quality, and it all comes with great service from waiters who are actually invested enough in your dining experience to sometimes even convince you to change your order. Filled with framed art and gold paint, that the space feels a bit like a 70s hotel lobby bar isn’t even a concern. Are we gushing? We’re gushing.QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 19, tel. (+48) 602 69 19 96. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 20:00. €€. T6W

ITALIAN AMARONE Upmarket Italian food served in an elegant setting to a discerning audience - all of whom appear to know exactly what they are ordering and how it should be prepared. The pressure is on, but the Amarone team comes through every time and the clients keep coming back. Enjoy fresh bread (baked daily), homemade pasta and authentic ingredients straight from Italy in an exclusive atmosphere made Mediterranean via plenty of natural light and potted plants. Weekdays 12:00 - 16:00 offer a fantastic five-course lunch for only 50zł, while a positively lavish eight-course tasting menu is available daily after 16:00 (199zł).QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 14 (Pod Różą Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TUE 6W BIANCA This small Italian bistro next to St. Mary’s Basilica comes preceded by a big reputation and strong pedigree courtesy of the local dining dynasty behind La Campana and Wesele. No surprise then that our scallops were delicious, and though the side dishes (order one) are almost as large as the pasta dishes, the value is still incredible. Close scrutiny of the relaxed, prevalently white (go figure) interior reveals a high level of perfectionism in each element (don’t fail to notice the hand-painted ceiling), but wisely leaves big impressions to the kitchen situated in full view at the end of the intimate room, where the professionalism of the chefs is on full display. Breakfast available from 10:00 till noon.QJ‑5, Pl. Mariacki 2, tel. (+48) 782 29 77 15, www. biancaristorante.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €€€€. TW BOCCANERA There’s a comfortable familiarity to Boccanera, which slides in neatly alongside its outstanding sister establishments (La Grande Mamma, Fiorentina and Bianca to name a few) at the top of Kraków’s Italian dining hierarchy. We’ve grown happily accustomed to the warm, multi-textured interior,

POD RÓŻĄ RESTAURANT 14 Floriańska Street, Krakow

MODERN POLISH CUISINE

www.likusrestauracje.pl

3 RYBKI RESTAURANT 5 Szczepańska Street, Krakow

BAR & RESTAURANT 13 Main Market Square, Krakow level -1

COPERNICUS RESTAURANT 16 Kanonicza Street, Krakow

Restaurants KLEZMER

Klezmer in Isaac Synagogue

photo by Kamila Łabędzka

Kraków is a hotbed for klezmer music, and attending a concert of this energetic, Eastern-infused folk music is a popular option for tourists. Though not much is known about the genre’s early beginnings, klezmer grew out of the musical tradition of the Ashkenazi Jews of Eastern Europe, and was widely popularised in the 18th century by troupes of travelling musicians who performed Yiddish dance tunes at weddings and other celebrations. Originating from Jewish devotional music, the genre evolved significantly at the beginning of the 20th century when it reached the United States via Jewish immigrants, who began to incorporate elements of American jazz music into the sound. After gradually waning in popularity, the genre experienced a revival in the 1970s and 80s as contemporary musicians in the US and Europe were drawn to its strange and forgotten sounds and began investigating its roots. The name klezmer actually comes from the Hebrew words kli (tool or utensil) and zemer (to make music), translating to ‘vessels of song,’ and initially referred only to the musical instruments themselves, but later became a pejorative word for musicians; it wasn’t until the 1970s that the term klezmer came to denote musical genre. Typical instruments in a klezmer ensemble might include violin, clarinet, accordion, trumpet, trombone, double bass or cimbalon (similar to a hammered dulcimer). Klezmer’s Polish revival occurred in the 1990s, with its nucleus in Kraków around now-legendary local bands like Kroke and Bester Quartet (formerly The Cracow Klezmer Band), who brought new energy and interest to the genre, inspiring a new generation of players. Today there are dozens of klezmer bands and ensembles performing regularly in the cafes, restaurants, museums and synagogues of Kazimierz - the city’s former Jewish district. Ironically, very few of these bands are Jewish, but mostly composed of Polish Catholic graduates of the Kraków Musical Academy who view their sound as Jewish-inspired world music. Nonetheless, klezmer concerts have essentially become incorporated into the city’s Jewish heritage tourism and seeing a performance is a fine way to spend an evening. Concerts occur almost daily in such restaurants as Klezmer Hois, Ariel and Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (p.104), but also in the Isaac Synagogue (p.47). 102 Kraków In Your Pocket

the open kitchen and the well-trained staff. The menu is a largely familiar line-up of simple pasta dishes, seafood and mussels, but our parpadella con manzo was perfect, and we can also vouch for the pizzas. With an absolutely voluminous interior well-suited for large groups, there’s a prevalent mood of merriment throughout, and no denying the value. Though comfort trumps excitement here, they’ve got their formula down, and Kraków is fortunate to have another Italian restaurant of this calibre. Breakfast available from 10:00 till noon.QJ‑5, ul. Tomasza 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 17 08, www.boccanera.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €€€. UEW FIORENTINA RISTORANTE ITALIAN BUTCHERY Located on a less hectic stretch of ul. Grodzka, this spacious Italian restaurant boasts a beautiful seasonal garden and outstanding interior that nicely balances rustic touches (exposed bricks, stripped wood panels) with gleaming silver lamp fixtures and mirrors. The house specialty is Florentine beefsteak, and the focus is various cuts of beef, but don’t miss the unique foie gras. Comfortably casual despite despite highly professional service and exquisite food, this is a fine choice for a relaxing and memorable meal near Wawel.QI‑7, ul. Grodzka 63, tel. (+48) 12 426 46 08, www.fiorentina.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TUW INVITO PIZZA & PASTA The concept here is as simple as the food: a stylish interior with a comfortable atmosphere in which to enjoy good company and affordable food. The decor nicely balances touchstones of a casual, rustic trattoria with the elegance of numerous wine racks and classic black and white Belle Epoque photos, thereby outshining the menu which is little more than a concise list of budget pizzas and doit-at-home pasta dishes that come out of the kitchen quickly. With cute students on the orders, live football action on the big screens, queens Nina Simone and E. Badu on the stereo and low totals on the bill at the end, there’s really nothing to disagree with here.QJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 33, tel. (+48) 12 421 30 92, www.invitopizza. pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. €€. TUW PIZZERIA FRESCO Indulge in pizza and focaccia topped with slightly unusual ingredients like onion chutney, goat cheese, chanterelle mushrooms, walnuts, artichokes, and more; for an adventure, try the il Salvatore pizza (named after the Salwator district where the restaurant is located), which comes with Korycin cheese, local prunes, Kraków sausage, and smoked peppers. Other delicacies include a baked fig, orange and Parma ham appetiser, lasagne, homemade ravioli, and panna cotta, while Thursdays and Fridays are mussel days - get a small pot of fresh clammy goodness for 39zł or a large one (enough for 2-3 people) for 69zł.QF‑8, ul. Flisacka 3 (Niebieski Art Hotel & Spa), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 40, www.pizzafresco.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. T6W

Restaurants JEWISH ARIEL You’ll hear mixed reports about Ariel; while our last visit was underwhelming, we’ve met many who extol the virtues of this veteran restaurant’s varied Jewish cuisine. The setting is typical of the district, with antiques and heirlooms alluding to the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated in a charmingly cluttered style. The live klezmer music is a popular draw and quintessential tourist experience, though you may appreciate it less when you learn you are being charged (25zł) to listen to it. Performances take place daily and reservations are recommended.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 1718, tel. (+48) 12 421 79 20, www.ariel-krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€€. IE6W DAWNO TEMU NA KAZIMIERZU (ONCE UPON A TIME IN KAZIMIERZ) From the outside this venue is disguised to look like a row of early 20th century trade shops and is decorated with awnings relating to the area’s Jewish heritage. Things are no less colourful on the inside with mannequins, sewing machines and carpenters’ work surfaces adorning the interiors. A great attempt at capturing the old Kazimierz spirit, and a must-visit for those tracing the district’s past, enjoy live klezmer, folk or ethnic music every evening except Fridays and Saturdays (check their FB page for details).QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 17, www.szeroka1.com. Open 10:00 - 22:30. €€. UE6W KLEZMER HOIS Located in an old former mikveh - a ritual Jewish bath house on ul. Szeroka, this is one of Kazimierz’s most well-established restaurants, and a portal into the dusty sepia days of pre-war Poland. Serving traditional Jewish Galician dishes from the 19th century, the restaurant generally follows kosher rules, though there’s no rabbinical supervision. Incredibly popular klezmer concerts (30zł) take place each evening during dinner at 20:00 - keeping the crowds amused and the wine flowing.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. (+48) 12 411 12 45, www. klezmer.pl. Open 07:00 - 21:30. €€. UEW

MIDDLE EASTERN HAMSA In a district whose eateries still treat Jewishness as a faded sepia part of the past, here’s a restaurant free of nostalgic p re-war décor and wooden roof fiddlers, where ‘Jewish cuisine’ doesn’t mean traditional East European fare. Bright, modern and free of clutter, Hamsa offers a range of authentic Middle Eastern specialties in a casual environment. The mezze sets are perfect for sharing, and not only give you a chance to sample delicious starters like the humus, babaganoush and muhammarah (our fave), but are also beautifully presented in hand-painted dish ware. Fairly-priced and generally a breath of fresh air, Hamsa is a delight.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 2 / ul. Miodowa 41, tel. (+48) 515 15 01 45, www.hamsa.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €€€. T6W krakow.inyourpocket.com

103

Restaurants

Polish

Restaurant

Traditional Polish food in modern form

Open 09.00 - 22.00, Fri-Sat 09.00 - 24.00 ul. Sławkowska 13-15, Kraków, tel. 12 430-61-08, www.czerwonekorale.info

POLISH ART RESTAURANT This newcomer has swiftly established itself among the city’s finest restaurants, winning a 2018 World Luxury Restaurant Award for best Polish Cuisine in the world. Such outrageous praise usually precedes disappointment, but Art Restaurant makes and sustains an immediate impression of splendour (enormous crystal chandelier, grand piano). In warm weather, the primary dining area is the courtyard garden full of plants and lanterns, which lighten the formality of the five-star service; in winter the historical ambiance of the 16th century building ably suffices. The wine cellar is exemplary, and the food is Polish at its most modern and innovative; to truly appreciate it should splash out for a tasting menu. Is this the best dining experience in town? The question bears pondering; do yourself a favour, make a reservation, and decide for yourself.QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. (+48) 537 87 21 93, www.artrestauracja.com. Open 13:00 - 22:00. €€€€. EW CZERWONE KORALE Though discreet from the street, this is one of the most vibrant and welcoming eateries in the Old Town. Cheerful wicker chandeliers wound with bright ribbons and beads give off a warm glow, while photos of highlanders and maidens frolicking in folk costumes line the walls. Even more colour comes from the kitchen, which serves all the Polish standards, but with some creative innovations and a 104 Kraków In Your Pocket

flair for presentation you’d hardly expect. There’s an entire page of vegetarian dishes(!) and breakfast until 12:00, after which 15zł lunch deals last until 16:00 (Mon-Thu). Overall the high quality equals a great value.QJ‑5, ul. Sławkowska 13-15, tel. (+48) 12 430 61 08, www.czerwonekorale. com.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. €€. TW ED RED This upscale ‘beef-stro’ (our turn-of-phrase, thanks) specialises in locally-sourced seasoned meat, dry-aged on-site for at least twenty days. With an industrial interior offset by large timber tables, and featuring a vast open kitchen, Ed Red conveys the atmosphere of an NYC steakhouse, but the curt menu is built upon local Polish products and delicacies that change every three months. alongside a wide selection of wines. Though casual in style, the service is outstandingly professional, and everything from the tempting and creative culinary cocktails to the monogrammed cloth napkins reveals that this is a fully thought-out effort. We were positively impressed.QI‑5, ul. Sławkowska 3, tel. (+48) 690 90 05 55, www.edred.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00. €€€. TUW FILIPA 18 FOOD WINE ART This small restaurant inside the gorgeously renovated Hotel Indigo offers an intimate gourmet dining experience that actually surpasses its rather modest setting thanks to award-winning head chef Marcin Sołtys. At work in

Restaurants plain view from the open kitchen, Sołtys has cooked for celebrities and diplomats, and the fact that his culinary prowess is now available to anyone in off the street (including you...?) is really quite incredible. Sourced from the Stary Kleparz farmers’ market just around the corner, Sołtys’ concise signature menu of six daily entrees transforms traditional Polish tastes into modern delicacies, each presented as its own work of art. Try the tartare, and if you have 3 hours to indulge, go for the full 7-course tasting menu which offers enticements from throughout the entire menu.QJ‑4, ul. Św. Filipa 18, tel. (+48) 12 300 30 30, www.filipa18.com. Open 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. €€€. TW FOLK Located in a charming cottage at the far end of the Błonia Meadow, in a leafy spot fittingly dubbed Cichy Kącik (Quiet Corner, which conveniently has its own tram stop), this Polish restaurant presents traditional local fare in a contemporary way. With a menu that caters to carnivores and vegans alike, purists who want the preparation of their veggies strictly quarantined from any meaty residues will be pleased to learn that there are two separate kitchens for just this purpose. The interior is simple and tasteful, but in the warm season we recommend the outdoor seating, where you can watch locals zip around the meadow on roller-skates and bikes. QC‑5, ul. Piastowska 22, tel. (+48) 12 638 37 37. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€. TU6W HEVRE Formerly a Jewish prayer house; currently a trendy cocktail bar, cafe, restaurant and even weekend club. With antique chandeliers, peeling frescos and Beach House grooves from the speakers, the atmosphere pegs Hevre as more of a hip dive bar, but the young kitchen team here have put together an extremely creative menu of authorial dishes based on old Galician eating traditions. Choose from such daunting but delish appetisers as Jewish caviar (made out of chicken livers, not fish eggs!) and beef tongue pastrami, then move on to the bone-in pork chop, homemade sausage in curry or pearl barley with strawberries. Breakfast is served 10:00 - 13:00, and the kitchen continues to serve appetisers late until 01:00. One of Kraków’s most evocative and complete venues, and one of our new favourites.QJ‑8, ul. Meiselsa 18, tel. (+48) 509 41 36 26. Open 10:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €€. XTE6W JAREMA This classy veteran restaurant presents old world Eastern Polish cuisine in a slightly ostentatious, 19th-century interior adorned with stag antlers and faded oil paintings. Comely waitresses in traditional costume bustle about serving steak tartar with quail yolk, large platters of venison and wild boar and shots of vodka as live folk music is performed each evening. Despite the now-familiar medieval feasting concept, Jarema is no tourist trap, and has been featured by the Michelin guide for nine years running.QJ‑4, Pl. Matejki 5, tel. (+48) 12 429 36 69, www.jarema.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€. TUIE6W krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Restaurants L CONCEPT 13 BAR & RESTAURANT Flagship restaurant of the exclusive Likus brand, this upscale eatery in Pasaż 13 serves modern Polish cuisine with Italian influences. Drawing from the exclusive vintages (served by the glass or bottle) and local delicacies of the adjacent delicatessen and wine shop, the dining room features a contemporary open kitchen and minimalist menu that uses fresh seasonal ingredients to create rich, signature dishes. Dining in the cellar of a shopping mall has never been this classy.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 13 (Pasaż 13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 12, www.pasaz-13.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. €€€. UW MIÓD MALINA (HONEY RASPBERRY) This cheerful restaurant comes with raspberries painted on the walls and a pleasing glow that illuminates dark evenings. There are floral touches aplenty here, lending an enchanted fairy tale atmosphere, while the menu mixes up the best of Polish and Italian cooking, plus breakfast each day until 12:00. With long standing as one of the best values and top restaurants in town, book ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka views afforded by the raised window-side seating. QJ‑6, ul. Grodzka 40, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 11, www. miodmalina.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €€€. TUBW POD ANIOŁAMI (UNDER THE ANGELS) One of the city’s most historic and charming restaurants, Pod Aniołami offers a quintessentially Cracovian encounter with royal medieval Polish cuisine. Filled with historical artefacts, this cavernous, candle-lit, almost monastic haven is incredibly warm and inviting considering that some of its 13th century dining areas are two levels underground. The extensive menu is an overview of everything that was enjoyed by the Polish nobility in days of old, including special recipes made with actual gold - an homage to the building’s past as a goldsmithy. One of Kraków’s richest restaurant experiences and highly recommended.QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 35, tel. (+48) 12 421 39 99, www.podaniolami. pl. Open 13:00 - 24:00. €€€€. 6W POD NOSEM An elegant upscale dining experience on Kraków’s oldest street, ‘under the nose’ (as the name translates) of Wawel Castle - tantalising smells from the open kitchen will hit yours upon entry. Pod Nosem uses the sous vide method to create a curt menu of modern, beautifully presented Polish and international cuisine, which changes every time we visit. The interior has some fine and creative touches with regal tapestries, embroidered seating, gorgeous dishware and some clever lamp fixtures whose profile pay tribute to the name. Utterly professional, and guaranteed to be one of the most unforgettable parts of your experience in Kraków.QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 22, tel. (+48) 12 376 00 14, www.podnosem.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. IW POD RÓŻĄ (UNDER THE ROSE) Excellent Polish cuisine served under the glass atrium of the magnificent Pod Różą Hotel. The open and elegant design features plenty of potted plants, a piano perched 106 Kraków In Your Pocket

on a raised platform and mezzanine seating overlooking the main floor. In addition to delicious coffees, to-diefor desserts, and an extensive wine list, the menu of seasonally inspired entrees includes a menagerie of perfectly prepared poultry and large game. Prices are high, but then so are the standards.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 14 (Pod Różą Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.podroza. hotel.com.pl. Open 18:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. TUEW POD WAWELEM Huge portions of Polish fare cascade off the steel pans and wooden boards they’re served on, while uniformed staff weave between the benches serving frothing steins of beer. Great for groups and families, kids have their own large rumpus area, while the grown-ups soak up the beer hall atmosphere shouting over energetic live folk music. Litre beers are encouraged and half-price on Mondays, and there’s a handy ‘vomitorium’ in the men’s room - i.e, two enormous steel basins for those suffering from overconsumption. Now a second location in the Cloth Hall (Restauracja Sukiennice).QJ‑7, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 23 36, www.podwawelem.eu. Open 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €€. TUBEW POD ZŁOTYM KARPIEM This folksy-Polish eatery ‘Under the Golden Carp’ specialises in a local variety of the humble freshwater fish, a result of some 600 years of breeding efforts by the Cistercian Order in nearby Zator. Wander through the rather haggard passage connecting the Rynek and ul. Stolarska to find this classy, innovative restaurant operating on a simple open-air terrace (covered in winter), where you can sample this and other regional dishes, including Krakówstyle maczanka (a predecessor of the burger made with pork neck and bacon), duck pierogi and sour rye soup. On Thu, Fri and Sun, traditionally dressed folk dancers emerge from the back for a three-course-dinner-and-show combo which will set you back 119zł (starts at 18:00).QJ‑6, Rynek Główny 10 (Pasaż Bielaka), tel. (+48) 883 99 97 34, www. podzlotymkarpiem.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. TB 6W PROJEKT STRZELNICA NEW In the beautifully restored Stara Strzelnica (Old Shooting Gallery), this restaurant full of high ceilings, glass and wood is a bit out of the centre, but the architecture alone justifies a trip. Inside you’ll also find the underrated Museum of Photography (p.66), and it’s admittedly a bit awkward that museum visitors literally walk between the tables to get from one exhibit to the other. Still this place has a great atmosphere, and the concise menu offers beautifully presented modern Polish and European cuisine which changes every few weeks. The restaurant also boasts its own parking; or you can get there via 20mins on buses 102, 134, 152, 192, 252 or 902, getting off at ‘Strzelnica.’Qul. Królowej Jadwigi 220, tel. (+48) 12 307 70 90, www.projektstrzelnica.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00. €€. TU6W

Restaurants

MAIN MARKET SQUARE 13 LEVEL -1 www.likusrestauracje.pl

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Restaurants QUALITA RESTAURANT In addition to an opportunistic location next door to the ICE Congress Centre, the Q Hotel’s Qualita restaurant has another ace up its sleeve - head chef Marcin Dudek, whose culinary exploits have been awarded by Gault & Millau. Though the modern interior is typical of most hotel restaurants, the mouth-watering menu of contemporary Polish and European dishes is wholly original. Changing regularly, emphasis is put on only the freshest, most high-quality local ingredients, plus Polish meads and local craft beers. Drop in any weekday and enjoy two orders of the same dish for the price of one. QH‑9, ul. Wygrana 6 (Q Hotel Plus Kraków), tel. (+48) 12 333 40 20, www.qhotels.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. €€€. TUW RESTAURACJA SUKIENNICE Known for their enormous schnitzel pork chops (seriously, just split one), daily promotions (including 1-litre beers for only 8.50zł on Mondays!) and complimentary cherry vodka shots with the check, this restaurant has secured success in one of the most high-rent locales in the country. Enjoy outdoor seating in the shadow of the Town Hall Tower in warm weather, or the surprisingly intimate AustroHungary-inspired interior inside the Cloth Hall, all while stuffing yourself silly on local specialties at maybe the lowest prices on the market square. The fact that it isn’t a shameless tourist trap, makes it even more of a tourist magnet.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 3, tel. (+48) 12 421 09 09, www.sukiennice-restauracja.pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €€. TW

“Pod Aniołami – Under the Angels” is an extraordinary place. With its historical 13th-century interiors and brilliant cuisine based on Polish culinary traditions it brings you closer to the medieval city. This place is famed for marinated meats grilled and smoked on hardwood from beech trees, and for other old Polish dishes. Restauracja „Pod Aniołami” ul. Grodzka 35, 31-001 Kraków www.podaniolami.pl e-mail: restauracja@podaniolami.pl tel.:+48/12 421-39-99 / PodAniolamiRestaurant

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SMAKOŁYKI An editorial favourite. Budget food isn’t hard to come by in this town, but when it does, it’s typically service and ambience that you sacrifice for your savings. Not here though. This hip, trendy bistro serves simple, delicious Polish cuisine inside a spacious, slightly urban, slightly retro interior that features a mezzanine and nifty wall art made from pinned string. Daily specials make the deals even sweeter, and plenty of space, plus an abundance of wall plugs and wifi that actually works(!), also make this a great place to work.QH‑5, ul. Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 12 430 30 99, www.smakolyki.eu. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. €€. T6W SMAQ BRASSERIE Q Hotel’s modern restaurant is a place to get acquainted with Polish staples like kotlet schabowy (the famed breaded pork cutlet), sour rye soup with white sausage and multiple types of pierogi, while those with more international tastes can choose from pastas, burgers and steaks. It’s also the best food you’ll get in the area - other options include IKEA meatballs, McD’s, and the shopping mall food court. Breakfast is served bright and early, starting at 6:30 on weekdays and 7:00 on weekends.Qul. Radzikowskiego 142 (Q Hotel Kraków), tel. (+48) 12 333 41 41, www.qhotels.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. €€€. TUW

Restaurants SZARA GĘŚ Inside a historic market square townhouse, ‘The Grey Goose’ has established itself as one of the city’s best places for an exquisite, romantic dinner or special event. The kitchen has carved out a unique niche, offering innovative modern dishes borne out of Polish tradition, with an inclination towards poultry. In fact, go ahead and make your entire meal goose-themed if you can - from the chilled foie gras with white chocolate appetiser (amazing!), to the glazed goose leg, to the signature ‘Szara Gęs’ dessert. Actually resembling an oversized goose egg in a nest, this last invention is so over-the-top you have to love it.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 63 11, www.szarages.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. TUW WIERZYNEK Quite a launch party this place: according to legend the opening night back in 1364 was attended by five kings and nine princes. Since then it’s been one esteemed guest after another, with every world leader or A-lister that comes to town taken here to be impressed. The immaculate interiors of original period furnishings, tapestries, oil paintings and timber ceilings aren’t too dissimilar from a tour of Wawel Castle and you can expect a royal treatment from the staff. The seriously high-end menu is based on the traditional feasting habits of the Polish monarchy, but it hasn’t failed to adopt modern influences as well, meaning you’ll eat like a king and remember the experience - one you could only have in Kraków - for quite a long time.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 728 87 10 71, www.wierzynek.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. €€€€. TEW

SPANISH EUSKADI With an expert chef, imported Spanish products and fresh seafood flown in from Venice, this tiny restaurant in Podgórze is Kraków’s only Basque eatery. The menu offers Spanish wines and an exotic range of tapas and tiny entrees, the simple descriptions of which don’t do justice to their rich flavour - meat and cheese plates, olives, octopus, fried shrimp (amazing), fried ham croquettes (delicious), rabbit livers (we weren’t brave enough). Designed for sharing, we reckon you need to order at least four dishes per person, and with the price of each around 24zł, it’s not the cheapest meal out. That said, this is food you certainly can’t make at home. With a super casual, social atmosphere, this a recommended choice for an intimate evening with just a few friends; due to its popularity reservations are strongly urged.QK‑10, ul. Kazimierza Brodzińskiego 4, tel. (+48) 535 48 40 56, www.euskadi.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:30. €€€. UW

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Restaurants HEALTHY EATS Though perhaps a bit slow to the table, the same healthy food trends that have swept most major cities have found their place in Kraków as well. Here we list restaurants dedicated to local, organic, ecological cuisine, and to promoting a healthy lifestyle. VANILLA SKY The flagship restaurant of Art Hotel Niebieski, Vanilla Sky is one of the city’s only restaurants to use only certified organic ingredients, and the chef constructs a tantalising menu of Italian and Polish influenced fusion dishes that change with the seasons and will make you happily commit to the eco-craze. Set in the centre of a spacious dining room on the hotel’s third floor, the well-dressed tables circle a gorgeous grand piano on which evening concerts are performed Thu-Sat, as well as Sunday afternoons.QF‑8, ul. Flisacka 3 (Niebieski Art Hotel & Spa), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, www. vanilla-sky.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TUEW ZIELONE TARASY Literally located on the roof of the modern 6-storey Herbewo office building, Zielone Tarasy prides itself on using seasonal, organic locally-sourced ingredients to make fresh meals without microwaves, bleached flour, palm oil or bullion cubes. The menu clearly marks which dishes are vegetarian, vegan, glutenfree, and low-fat, though the range of dishes extends from wholemeal pizzas to grilled tofu to baked salmon, and there are several stellar specials each day. Cheap, healthy and delicious - can it get better? It can. Did we mention that they also do great coffee and cocktails, which you’ll be enjoying on one of their several lush terraces while taking in great views of the Old Town? Recommended.QI‑2, Al. Słowackiego 64, tel. (+48) 12 631 13 00, www.zielone-tarasy.eu. Open 09:00 21:00, Closed Sat, Sun. €€. T6W ZIELONYM DO GÓRY On the ground floor of the Lwowska 1 Aparthotel, Zielony Do Góry occupies a large, open locale lined with floor-to-ceiling windows and festooned with green plant fronds. Though it first scans as a strictly vegetarian resto, the onus here is more on healthy, perfectly balanced dishes made from locally-sourced ingredients and their own fresh-baked bread. Meatless dishes are actually in the minority, but the menu which changes seasonally - does indeed put veggies to the fore (‘do góry’ that is) in its philosophy. Completely casual, but with an ambiance (and wine list) that works for romance, prices are very reasonable, and they open early to offer arguably the best breakfast on this side of the river.QM‑10, ul. Lwowska 1, tel. (+48) 572 50 34 21. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 23:00. €€. T6W 110 Kraków In Your Pocket

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN GLONOJAD (ALGAE-EATER) Though the vegetarian fare here isn’t the most creative we’ve encountered, Glonojad has earned a devoted following of students, activists and artists, and we count ourselves among them at least once a month. Fast, filling, healthy and a great value for your money, the concise Far East-inspired menu features curries, samosas and burritos, and the daily specials are always a sound choice. With an interior that you forget as soon as you walk out the door, Glonojad hasn’t really elevated itself much above the status of a sort-of veggie milk bar (albeit one with beer, wine and wifi), but it’s a good alternative to other cheap Polish eateries, and keeps the kids coming back day after day. QJ‑4, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 12 346 16 77. Open 08:00 22:00. €. T6W KARMA One of Kraków’s most forward-thinking locales, in addition to excellent, free-trade coffee and tea, this modern cafe offers a range of treats for those who have embraced vegan or gluten-free lifestyles. All of the outstanding baked goods, including tarts, cakes and cookies, are made on site, and daily specials include delicious vegetarian soups, stir-fry and curries at great prices. There’s even a breakfast menu, giving you every reason to go early and often. For vegans, vegetarians, and anyone who enjoys great coffee, Karma is a must-visit.QH‑5, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel. (+48) 662 38 72 81, www.karmaroasters.com. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. €. T6W KROWARZYWA VEGAN BURGER Kraków’s cool kids keep queueing out the door for Krowarzywa’s cheap vegan burgers and kebabs. Choose from 5 standard ‘burger’ patties - millet (‘jaglanex’), vegan pastrami, chickpea (‘cieciorex’), veggies and tofu, plus outstanding monthly inventions - pick your sauce and whether you want it in a bun, wrap or bowl, and then leave the rest to the riot grrrls on the grill, whose assembly line efficiency is something to behold. The interior is as simple as the menu, and, as if their hipster cred could possibly be in question, Krowarzywa has their own bottled yerba mate brand and even a cannabis drink (!). Honestly, we eat here once a week, and it’s encouraging to see a place like this gain traction just off the market square. Check it out. QI‑5, ul. Sławkowska 8, tel. (+48) 531 77 71 36, www. krowarzywa.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €. T6 POD NORENAMI Proficient in the dark metamorphic magic of the soybean like no other place we’ve seen in PL, Pod Norenami’s long menu features tofu, mock chicken and mock beef prepared in an astounding variety of traditional dishes from the kitchens of Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, Korea and China. While some Far East standbys (curries, tempura, sushi, pad Thai) aren’t new to Kraków, a vegetarian restaurant that emphasises mock meat certainly is, and the results have people packing the tables and returning often. A fun place

Restaurants to fool or educate the Polish palate, the interior is modest and casual as opposed to modern and kitsch. Do Kraków’s vegetarians have it hard? Hardly.QH‑5, ul. Krupnicza 6, tel. (+48) 661 21 92 89, www.podnorenami.pl. Open 12:00 22:00. €€. TW VEGAN BISTRO NOVA KROVA Formerly focussed on vegan burgers, Nova Krova has branched beyond food in a bun to become a full-blown vegan bistro. Enjoy a variety of delicious dishes made from faux meats, whole grains, nuts, beans and other vegan buddies, vegan Sunday brunch (10:00 - 13:00, 15zł), dairyfree desserts, obscure beers and homemade gingerade. Burgers are still around, and you basically ‘build your own’ with whatever ingredients you want, including your choice of patty (bulgar, beans, tofu, seitan, quinoa, falafel) and bun (white, wheat, gluten-free). As you might expect the hipster quotient here is exceptionally high - almost as high as our opinion of the place.QK‑9, Pl. Wolnica 12, tel. (+48) 530 30 53 04. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €. U6W

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Regional products Fish and seafood

VEGANIC An outstanding vegan/vegetarian restaurant in the Tytano complex, Veganic possesses both an elegant backdrop for a romantic dinner, and an enormous garden for hipsters hangabouts (and even a playground for their spawn!). A great place to discover new ingredients, enjoy a wide range of excellent, healthy, vegan and gluten-free breakfasts, soups, pastas, shakes and desserts - gorgeously presented and quickly-served. temptations are the smoked tofu steak, curried cauliflower and kale cocktails. Paired with eco-wines, craft beers or a kale cocktail, it’s impossible to oversell Veganic, which vaults itself to the top of the list of Kraków’s vegetarian restaurants.QH‑5, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 668 46 84 69, www.veganic.com. pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Mon 12:00 - 22:00, Thu 09:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. €€. T6W WIELOPOLE 3 This ‘super foods’ cellar restaurant is super indeed, and consistently surprises. Though located on an otherwise avoidable street and a bit lacking in atmosphere, the simple and clearly labelled vegetarian, vegan, raw and glutenfree dishes are absolutely gourmet, the service is friendly and the value is just unbeatable. Choose a scrumptious Asian-inspired ‘Buddha Bowl’ or go for the daily lunch special; enjoy a range of hearty raw vegan smoothies or get your greens in the form of a wheatgrass drink. Heartily recommended and here’s hoping it overcomes obscurity to become the local lunch bar of choice for everyone in the neighbourhood.QJ‑6, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 517 36 69 60. Open 12:00 - 21:00. €. TU6W

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HOTEL NIEBIESKI ART & SPA Krakow, Salwator ul. Flisacka 3 www.vanilla-sky.pl tel. + 12 297 40 05 krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Nightlife

Tao Resto Club, p.121

If you believe urban legend (like we do), Kraków has the highest density of bars and clubs in the world. Simply hundreds of drinking dens can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching from the Old Town to Kazimierz and beyond. Keeping them open, of course, are thousands of students, and the millions of tourists that flock to Kraków every year. With increased tourism comes increased prices, however, and these days you can expect to pay 10zł (2.35 Euros) for a large lager these days, and up to 15zl (3.5 Euros) for a craft beer. For clubbing, the main hedonist high streets are Floriańska (J-5) and Szewska (I-5) where nary a medieval cellar will be left unthronged by sexed-up students on a Friday or Saturday night; you can also expect most clubs to charge a cover of anywhere from 5-20zł those nights. While the opening hours we list here are confirmed by the venues themselves, most are rather flexible; basically if people are drinking, the barman is pouring. Unfortunately, space is limited in our print guide, so use our website - iyp.me/krakow - to find reviews of almost every drinking locale in town, and leave us your comments about all of those which you’ve visited. Below is a list of nightlife recommendations depending on what you’re looking for. COCKTAILS The best in town are at Mercy Brown (p.116) - a pseudospeakeasy with 1920s panache. For a more mature, monied crowd join the scene in Tytano’s Scena54 (p.118), or get a jolt and feel the Kazimierz vibes in Mojito Caffe (p.117). Finally, for signature drinks down the pub it’s Tram Bar (p.119) every time. 112 Kraków In Your Pocket

CRAFT BEER Microbrews are all the rage in Kraków, so there’s simply no excuse for drinking bad beer anymore. Take your tipples in House of Beer (p.115), Weźże Krafta (p.119), Nowy Kraftowy (p.117) or Omerta (p.117) and you can officially consider yourself a beer snob. COUPLES Couples looking for some face time should fetch a hot drink in Camelot (p.89) or converse by candlelight in Mleczarnia (p.117), catch some live jazz in Piec’Art (p.118), and have a final nightcap in Mercy Brown (p.116) or BARaWINO (p.114). KAZIMIERZ Kazimierz (p.42) has become known as much for its nightlife as its Jewish heritage. Synonymous with candlelit bars stuffed with antiques and bohemians, where under the stewardship of alcohol one might commune with a lost, forgotten world, check out classic bars in the district like Alchemia (p.113), Eszeweria (p.113), Mleczarnia (p.117) and Singer (p.119). ALL-NIGHTER When most bars start closing, Singer (p.119) starts peaking, with the tabletops turning into dancefloors. Alchemia (p.113) is also one of the last bars to shutter in Kazmierz, or head to ul. Bożego Ciała (J-8) where you’ll find several dive bars that don’t seem to close. In the Old Town, Teatro Cubano (p.121) rolls until dawn. If you still want some company after the sun has come up, find any Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa location (p.82).

Nightlife SYMBOL KEY N Credit cards not accepted C‑1 Map Coordinate U Facilities for the disabled 6 Animal friendly X Smoking room available

E Live music

o Year-Round Garden

W Wi-fi connection

BARS & PUBS ALCHEMIA One of Kraków’s most evocative bars, the aptly-named Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia candlelight, forgotten photographs and antique intrigues of the former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day, in the evenings Alchemia’s murky mystique metamorphoses blood into beer for the ruddy regulars and excitable tourists queuing before the indifferent bar staff. The cellar, when it’s not being used as a student disco, plays host to some of the best concerts in town and is a prime participant in annual jazz and klezmer festivals, and the adjacent Alchemia od Kuchni serves a full menu of excellent eats until 23:00 (24:00 Fri & Sat). Essential in every way.QK‑8, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 22 00, www.alchemia.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 02:00, Mon 10:00 02:00, Thu 09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. XEW DON CHICHOTE Under the arcades of ul. Krakowska you’ll find this relatively new pub with an old soul. Essentially an intimate dive bar, Don Chichote captures a quintessentially Cracovian atmosphere that has been nearly pushed to extinction with the rise of posh cocktail bars and trendy industrial dance clubs. Here it’s all rickety curbside antiques, dark curtains, fringed lampshades and an almost opiating vibe, enlivened by friendly service, groovy tunes and an international crowd of wistful wanderers. Cheap beer has basically become a unicorn in Kraków, but you can grab it by the horn here with a large range of local options under 10zł, and the joint gets jumping Thu-Fri nights when they somehow cram live bands onto the tiny stage. Recommended for a night errant.QJ‑8, ul. Krakowska 5/3U, tel. (+48) 577 87 74 47. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Thu 13:00 - 02:00, Fri 13:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. EW ESZEWERIA Perhaps embodying the spirit of Kazimierz more than any bar not directly on Plac Nowy, Eszeweria’s old world antiques, candelabras, frosty mirrors and murky, stencilled walls once played host to some of the city’s most novel concerts, however these days it’s more of a sleepy hangout for hip nostalgics with hand-rolled cigarettes dangling off their lips. Perfect for ducking the tourists, having a quiet drink and catching the vibe of the neighbourhood, the large seasonal garden is lush oasis, and the restroom may be the most romantic in town (no wonder there’s a queue). QK‑8, ul. Józefa 9, tel. (+48) 517 49 19 27. Open 10:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. NXUW krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Nightlife WINE BARS Once the domain of only Kraków’s most elite restaurants, these promethean establishments have stolen the drink of the gods to spread it amongst the dinner-skipping heathens. Ruddy your nose and crimson your teeth in the casual wine bars listed below.

BARaWINO

BARAWINO Occupying an unconventional corner locale near Plac Wolnica, BARaWINO is the first wine bar connected with Kondrat Selected Wines - one of the largest wine importers in Poland. This isn’t the domain of haughty sommeliers and wine snobs, however, but rather a social, laid-back gathering place for friends (not just couples!), who place their orders at the bar and either take their bottle home (at a discount), or relax by the glass in the casual interior. The selection in stock surpasses 200 labels, at least 25 of which are available by the glass at the bar, which also offers some wine snacks. On Tuesdays they have wine promotions, and don’t be surprised to find DJs playing some evenings. A nice reminder that you don’t have to be dressed to the nines to go enjoy a glass of wine.QK‑9, ul. Mostowa 1, tel. (+48) 668 67 17 12. Open 12:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. E6W KRAKO SLOW WINES This wine shop and bar is the perfect place to slow down, unwind and recharge after a long, heady trip through Schindler’s Factory - located almost next door. Full of wooden fixtures and natural light, this warehouse space has been transformed into an oasis of good taste, ideal for getting your nose into their outstanding selection of wines from exclusively ecological vineyards (over 100 vintages). Some are certified organic, many are Polish, and all are completely intoxicating, of course. In addition to wine they’ll also please your palette with cheese and meat boards lined with Central Eastern delicacies. A unique place to pass the time, the impression lingers and so did we.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 6F, tel. (+48) 669 22 52 22, www.krakoslowwines.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. 6W 114 Kraków In Your Pocket

FORUM PRZESTRZENIE In the former reception lobby of the Soviet-era Forum Hotel, this is one of Kraków’s most original, intriguing and effortlessly cool locales. The owners have simply added dozens of bean bags, sofas and a bit of street art sensibility to the original interiors, assembled a highly competent kitchen to create stellar sandwiches, salads and pizzas, stocked the bar with decent beer, and watched the talented, tattooed post-college crowd (“hipsters” you might call them) turn this vast riverside venue into one of the trendiest places to be day or night. With great views and plenty of space, when it’s warm their huge riverside terrace is sprawling with beach chairs, while inside there’s enough space for ping-pong tables. DJ parties and other events are a constant, making Forum one of the most unpredictable and exciting venues in town.QI‑10, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28, tel. (+48) 515 42 47 24, www.forumprzestrzenie. com. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. EW HALA GŁÓWNA An absolutely massive space with plenty of seating inside and out, Hala hums with warm bodies. The dim industrial interior has been embellished with a super-long bar, urban art and video projections, and acid jive on the stereo - put together it somehow achieves modern urbanite appeal while also basically being a student dive. To that end there’s pizza served late, craft beers on draught and weekend DJ parties from 22:00. If this is the fall back for when every other place at Tytano is packed full, it basically cements the complex’s rep as the best place to go out in Kraków. QG‑5, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 12 307 19 19. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Thu 16:00 - 02:00, Fri 16:00 - 04:00, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. UBE6W HARD ROCK CAFE Sit back enjoying your cocktail or beer overlooking the market square and Cloth Hall from Hard Rock’s modern split-level bar. The chaps here know how to make that drink and the smiling faces can sometimes be all you need after a long day facing stern museum curators. This is also one of the only places in town that has a ‘happy hour,’ which ironically starts after 22:00 Mon-Thu. Overall, HRC isn’t the cheapest place in town, but it’s one of comfort for many. QJ‑5, Rynek Główny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. Open 10:00 - 01:00. UB6W HEVRE This former Jewish prayer house has been turned into a tasteful, modern and perfectly Kazimierski restaurant/bar/ club. Though badly damaged during WWII, the interior still retains traces of the original frescos and the mechitza (a balcony for separating men and women), giving it a real feeling of history, as well as a social, uniquely Cracovian atmosphere. The bar is the only place in Kraków to offer Pilsner Urquell straight from the tank - and they do so in three ways, depending on how much you appreciate beer foam. Signature cocktails and stellar Galician cuisine are also served, from breakfast options (served 10:00 - 13:00)

Nightlife

The Best

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Awarded first place for quality in Poland’s Guinness Competition.

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ul. Św. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl Open: Mon – Sun 12.00 – Till the last guest

to late night appetisers (served until 01:00). On weekends Hevre doubles as a dance-party destination when they open the upstairs and basement levels for DJ-driven raveups.QJ‑8, ul. Meiselsa 18, tel. (+48) 509 41 36 26. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. XE6W HOUSE OF BEER With over 200 bottles and 21 draught beers over two bars, this high-ceilinged pub full of dark wooden furnishings and large leather sofas helped lead the charge to improve the beer culture of Poland’s drinking capital. Now they’ve gotten even better with a scrumptious selection of hot sandwiches, including multiple pulled pork options, the ‘late breakfast’ egg-cheddar-guac-bacon creation and sweet potato fries as a side. Full of foreigners and locals alike, the atmosphere is friendly without being overly laddish, or having the unnecessary distraction of TVs nattering in the background. Some beers can be a bit pricey so find out what the damage is before asking the barman to unbottle one, or try the local ales on draught for more of a bargain. QJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 35 (entrance from ul. Św. Krzyża 13), tel. (+48) 12 349 05 42, www.houseofbeerkrakow. com. Open 14:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. W

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Irish Pub Certified quality Guinness, a wide range of whiskey, live Irish music and live sports on a big screen in a great atmosphere in one of Krakow’s oldest and biggest pubs.

• Two bars • Pool • Darts • SKY – TV (All matches shown)

IRISH PUB POD PAPUGAMI A nice amalgamation of classic Irish pub and Cracovian cellar bar. Over two levels full of wooden fittings, Irish bric-a-brac, a billiards table, darts, plasma screens streaming sports, fresh baked pizza and pints of Murphy’s, Guinness and cider, Pod Papugami has a friendly sociable atmosphere beloved by lads and gentlemen alike. A great place to meet people and find out just what exactly ‘the craic’ is, PP actually captures everything we like about being in an Irish bar.QJ‑5, ul. Św. Jana 18, tel. (+48) 12 422 61 01, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00. XUW KLUB BUDA NEW Under the purview of Kraków’s University of Agriculture, the rich history of this space dates back to the 1950s, peaking during the ‘70s residency of the legendary Kabaret Pod Budą, before its recent relaunch as the clubhouse of Kraków School of Brewing (KSB) - one of the only programmes in Europe offering a BSc and PhD in beer brewing. As such, it’s a unique blend of student union and craft beer pub, and the exclusive distribution point of KSB’s own ales (in addition to the bounty of bougie bottles in the fridge). Mingle with malt masters, old-guard academics and students from the upstairs dorms during their frequent events, including concerts, karaoke (every 2nd Fri), and English Quiz Nights (every Weds).QH‑6, ul. Czapskich 2. Open 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. UE krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Nightlife TYSKIE BREWERY

LE SCANDALE Right on Plac Nowy (and outclassing most of the neighbourhood), Le Scandale unfolds over a series of sleek rooms draped with sultry ladies and sharp-dressed business sharks, before revealing an enormous garden (heated in winter) in the back, which includes a smoking section, second bar, and a grillmaster cooking up delicious steaks right in front of you. Home to a large selection of whiskey, rum, and some of the best cocktails in Kraków, Le Scandale also features a full fusion-inspired menu (served late). This is modern Kraków at its finest - you may not want to leave.QK‑8, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 55, www.lescandale.pl. Open 08:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. XUB6W

The Tyskie Brewery, located some 10km south of Katowice in the town of Tychy, has been brewing beer continuously for nearly 400 years. Originally German-owned, today Poland’s most famous brewery produces over 8,000,000 hectolitres of ale annually, and 13 varieties of beer, including Tyskie Gronie lager - Poland’s bestselling beer. The enormous historical brewing complex is one of Silesia’s architectural marvels, much of which is open to the public for guided tours. Taking about 2.5 hours and led by a humorous and informative guide, the Tyskie tour takes visitors through the entire modern production process and the four-century history of the brewery, beginning in the Brewery Museum. Housed inside a red brick neo-Gothic church built in 1902, this rather superb space combines modernity and tradition across several fascinating multimedia exhibits on the craft of brewing, serving and imbibing beer, and displays full of historical brewing equipment and beer paraphernalia. A 3D film also tracks the history of the Tyskie Brewery through the ages. Next your tour takes you through parts of the production plant, starting from the Old Brewery - an immaculately-preserved space filled with decorative tiles and WWI-era copper vats that have had modern brewing equipment cleverly fit inside them. Highlights include saucy tales from the socalled ‘Bachelors’ Quarters,’ a glimpse of the brewery’s own railway station and a look inside the fabulously fragrant bottling plant. And of course it all concludes with a free pint in the on-site pub. Tours are available in Polish, English, German, Italian, Czech and Russian, and must be booked in advance. For an extra 20zł, take the extended Ducal Tasting School tour, which includes workshops and tastings with a beer expert. The easiest way to get to Tychy from Kraków is by car and the 85km journey takes about 1.5hrs. Alternatively, the train takes about 3hrs and involves a change in Katowice; the brewery is only a short walk from Tychy train station.Qul. Katowicka 9, Tychy, tel. (+48) 32 327 84 30, www.zwiedzbrowar.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Closed Mon, Last entrance 3hrs before closing. Visitors must be over 16 and should call in advance to book a place on the tour. Admission 30/25zł; groups over 20, 28zł/person.

LOUIS MUSIC CLUB & PUB This intimate venue in the Gothic cellars of a fancy shopping centre has been a favourite after-work sports pub and weekend dance club for over two decades. Louis has earned a devoted and diverse following of over-30 locals and internationals with its casual atmosphere, affordable shots and cocktails, friendly bar staff, football on the tele, Monday night karaoke, Wednesday salsa workshops, and wild weekend parties when DJs play contemporary dance hits to an energetic, uninhibited crowd. For a cellar club, the high number of totally sexy and yet tastefully dressed locals here on weekends is worth noting, as are the extremely spacious and well-maintained bathrooms. Worth a visit. QI‑6, Rynek Główny 13, tel. (+48) 12 617 02 22, www. louisclub.pl. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Thu 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. EW

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MASH ROOM This Tytano venue is essentially a cocktail dive bar, whose slightly psychedelic interior includes an odd ceiling canopy made of plastic cups. The only place in town to offer draught cocktails (7 total, 21zł each, carafes 34zł), they invite icons from the club music scene to curate their drinks; the current signature cocktail menu is inspired by psych-trance music and was created in collaboration with Michał Ichniowski (AKA ‘Meff’), a DJ and promoter of Goadupa - PL’s biggest festival of psychedelic culture. Delicious long drinks (21zł) and Czech beer round out the libations list.QG‑4, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10/7B, tel. (+48) 530 05 35 51. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Mon 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. UW MERCY BROWN The word is out on this pseudo-speakeasy, and now that they’ve normalised their opening hours we’re lifting the veil on the best cocktail bar in Kraków. No joke, the gentlemen that tend bar here are artists and the joy they take in showcasing their talents is palpable; pull up a barstool and don’t miss the show. They make their own tinctures, the liquors are top shelf, and the tidy list of exclusive, artisanal drinks changes regularly; prices start at 24zł, but it’s absolutely worth it. The perfect place for a nightcap, enjoy the dim, decadent 1920s Parisian atmosphere and electro-swing soundtrack. Hidden above the Smakołyki restaurant with no outside signage, enter and indicate to

Nightlife the porter at the desk that you’d like to go upstairs; half the fun is the forbidden feeling of finding this place.QH‑5, ul. Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 512 09 10 12. Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. W MLECZARNIA This cosy cafe/bar full of worn fabrics, rickety furniture and murky portraits is exactly the place you’d expect to find Bruno Schultz or Witkacy bunched up over a sketchbook or notepad. Full of sunlight in the afternoon, candlelight in the evening, and otherwise unbound by time, Mleczarnia is perfect for daydreaming, catching up on your reading, or sparking a romance. Recommended.QK‑8, ul. Meiselsa 20, tel. (+48) 12 421 85 32, www.mleczarnia.wroclaw.pl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. W MOJITO CAFFÈ As the name implies, Mojito Caffè marries coffee culture with craft cocktails - and quite literally in the form of their exciting coffee cocktails, which are a great way to get the night rolling. With a perfect location for absorbing the atmosphere of Kazimierz day or night, the well-designed menu delivers delicious drinks for all hours, from cold brew coffee, Aeropress and Chemex to their staple 18zł mojitos and signature cocktails (each carefully described, with photos!). The interior offers comfortable seating and cool Polish poster art, with even a small garden in the back. Keep an ear out for live concerts every Sunday.QK‑8, ul. Meiselsa 22, tel. (+48) 12 307 32 58, www.mojitocaffe. pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. E6W NOWY KRAFTOWY Walk though a completely unassuming doorway hidden in the corner of Plac Nowy, and find yourself teleported to Tytano, Kraków’s urban lifestyle complex on the other side of the Old Town. The resemblance is no accident: the owners are the same as those behind Tytano’s hugely successful Weźże Krafta, and they’ve copied many of Weźże’s characteristics, including the industrial decor, splendid outdoor seating (which is completely shielded from the loud drunks queueing up for zapiekanki on the square) and - of course - the multi-tap concept, with 25 rotating beers on tap and more in bottles. There’s even a Big Lebowski neon: ‘Sometimes you eat the bar, sometimes the bar eats you.’ Recommended. QK‑8, Plac Nowy 8, tel. (+48) 12 307 40 40. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 02:00. B6W OMERTA This cult hangout overcomes a tired Mafia theme (replete with pics and quotes from The Godfather) with a huge beer selection, including 27 on draught. If you can get in the door, the decisions begin with foreign or domestic - the answer informing which of their two bars to hedge up to. Ask for their impressive printed beer menu of almost 50+ ales broken down by category and even ranked for you. Well-tempered locals create a sociable pub atmosphere, but finding a table can be a problem.QK‑8, ul. Warszauera 3 (entrance from ul. Kupa), tel. (+48) 501 50 82 27. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Mon, Sun 16:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 16:00 - 02:00. W krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Nightlife PIEC’ART The legend of this esteemed jazz den dates back to 1999, and it has managed to remain at the forefront of Kraków’s respected jazz scene ever since, attracting some of the biggest names in the world jazz scene to its stage. Live concerts take place almost nightly (check their website for exact details) in the vaulted brick cellars, attracting an artsy crowd of jazz playing peers and purists. A recent expansion upstairs onto ul. Szewska has made Piec’Art more inviting than ever, with a classy coffee and whiskey bar, featuring the longest bar in town and silent films flickering on the wall.QI‑5, ul. Szewska 12, tel. (+48) 12 429 16 02, www.piecart. pl. Open 16:00 - 03:00. EW

TYTANO

Weźże Krafta

After lying derelict for decades, this former tobacco factory just west of the Old Town has transformed into an artsy, off-beat nightlife and alt-culture complex. Inhabiting 6 buildings and 15,000m2, Tytano’s postindustrial allure has attracted dozens of original bars, restaurants and shops with their fingers on the pulse of current urban culture trends, making this ‘city within the city’ the current place to be in Kraków. Tytano venues of note include Bonjour Cava (p.88), Cargo (p.93), Veganic (p.111), Hala Główna (p.114), Mash Room (p.116), Scena54 (p.118), Weźże Krafta (p.119), and Tao Resto Club (p.121).

LATE NIGHT EATS PAPITO’S Attached to the Teatro Cubano music club and flooded with backpackers from the hostel upstairs (who would otherwise forget to eat), Papitos offers bender-sustaining 4-bite burgers (50g patties, 5-7zł), fries (4zł), Cuban sandwiches, cheap beer and mojitos in a lively atmosphere of salsa music, students and twenty-somethings. Solid food is a necessity, after all, and Papitos allows you to order only as much as you need, and get it into your system quickly without slowing your alcohol intake. Tasty and cheap, have a seat outside in the passageway to feel like you’re still at the centre of the party.QI‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 10, tel. (+48) 660 56 21 00. Open 09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. €. XSW PRZYPIECEK This pierogi bar offers a large range of stuffings, served all night long with no fuss and no formality. Sure, it’s not as fast as a kebab, but it’s a better value, better quality, and they even have tables to sit at. At the end of a night of clubbing, there are few better places for filling your stomach.QJ‑4, ul. Sławkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95. Open 24hrs. €. SW 118 Kraków In Your Pocket

PIERWSZY LOKAL... Known for its labourious, unmemorisable name, this cafe/ bar opens early to offer breakfast, serving sandwiches and their own hummus throughout the day. One of the only places in the centre where you can enjoy local Dragon’s Head beer (amber or porter), this long-standing favourite blends seamlessly into a bar in the evenings. With eclectic music and a relaxed atmosphere, Piewszy Lokal is a great place to meet friends, relaxing on the leather sofas or chatting around the candlelit tables. You can also smoke comfortably in the large back room (which doubles as a gallery) - a bit of a rarity these days.QJ‑6, ul. Stolarska 6, tel. (+48) 12 431 24 41. Open 07:30 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. X6W SCENA54 They say ‘30 is the new 20,’ ‘40 is the new 30,’ and 54 is the new club for consenting adults whose kids are old enough to take care of themselves or with the ex- for the weekend. With a shabby-chic interior in the industrial Tytano complex, expensive drinks, a diverse repertoire, and wellto-do dress code, Scena54 is a flirtatious blend of snooty social club, earnest culture house, and swinging nightclub. Check the FB page for occasional events like burlesque, jazz or stand-up, but generally on weeknights it’s a laid-back cocktail lounge for the cuff-linked and coutured, while on weekends DJs drive the danceparty. Most of the clients are society types in their 30s and 40s, and if that’s your desired demographic, Scena54 makes going out feel more fun than it has in years.QG‑5, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 12 378 37 78, www.scena54.pl. Open 19:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. EW SHISHA CLUB BY BOLLYWOOD An Indian-owned den of oriental exotica, Shisha Club’s cup runneth over with draped fabrics, oriental rugs, stained glass lanterns, colourful cushions and intricate tiles. Navigate an underground labyrinth of dimly-lit rooms before settling down in the plush nook of your choice and selecting from five flavours of tobacco (39zł and up), plus drinks from the full bar. Ideal for a quiet make out session with your Queen Jasmine, or a sedated evening with friends.QJ‑5, Mały Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 536 25 96 42. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. XW

Nightlife SINGER One of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer essentially invented the evocative aesthetic of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, rickety antiques and candlelight associated with the district today. A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by day, Singer hits its stride around 03:00 when tabletops turn into dancefloors, the regulars abandon their drinks to dip and spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy, klezmer, celtic and swing music, the entire bar begins to feel like a Ferris wheel ready to fly off its axis and the boundaries of time are obliterated. Yeah, we’ve had a few good ones here. QK‑8, ul. Izaaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 06 22. Open 09:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. XW STARA ZAJEZDNIA (THE OLD DEPOT) This old tram depot has assumed a second life as Kraków’s biggest brewery and beer hall. A large complex of cavernous brick and timber buildings, Stara Zajezdnia’s size is both a blessing and a curse, as even the smaller out-buildings can feel pretty lonely without a large party inside, but if you happen to be in one, do bring it here. Flatscreens beam football and the beers they brew on-site do well to wash down the traditional Polish fare. Also don’t overlook the menu of single malt whiskies if you want to beat your friends in the race to be first under the table. QK‑9, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 12, tel. (+48) 664 32 39 88, www.starazajezdniakrakow.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. UW TRAM BAR Though looking like a downtrodden dive bar in the midst of the drunken late night din, Tram Bar actually serves as a sophisticated escape from the shenanigans taking place just beyond its door. In stark contrast to the 4zł beers across the passageway, the focus here is on signature cocktails (24zł+ each), mixed drinks and one of the most well-stocked bars in the Old Town (over 180 different types of alcohol!). A veteran of Kraków’s bar scene, Tram Bar also looks and feels like a local classic, filled with antique tram benches, luggage racks and Golden Oldies descending from the stereo. More pub than lounge, here you can escape the sloppy student crowds, fashionistas and try-hard hipsters who make so many other places in the city unbearable.QC‑3, ul. Stolarska 5, tel. (+48) 730 33 15 32. Open 17:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 05:00. 6W WEŹŻE KRAFTA Located at the heart of the hip Tytano complex, Weźże is Kraków’s largest multitap bar, offering 25 craft beers in rotation on draught and an additional 30 in bottles. With an industrial interior of unplastered bricks, columns supporting the ceiling beams, and leather seating, this is a flophouse for hopheads, which spills outside into the adjacent alleys. Even when crowded, however, Weźże feels like a cool oasis of civil camaraderie, far from the din of the city. One of the city’s trendiest drinking destinations, if you appreciate your ale, you should absolutely seek it out. QG‑4, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10/3, tel. (+48) 12 307 40 50, www.wezze-krafta.ontap.pl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. 6W

STOLARSKA 5 pn - pt 16.00-5.00 sb - nd 13.00-5.00

BEST CRAFTED COCKTAILS

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Nightlife CLUBS With roughly 120,000 students and a growing tourist industry egging it on, Kraków’s club scene continues to expand beyond reason, with each successive offing trying to out-swank its predecessor. The main hedonist high streets are Floriańska (J-5) and Szewska (I-5) where nary a medieval cellar will be left unthronged by sexedup students on a Friday or Saturday night. Expect cover charges ranging anywhere from 5-20zł on Fri & Sat at most venues.

Luxury Shisha Club in town Maly Rynek 2-3, 31-041 Kraków tel. +48 690 095 485 manager@shishaclub.pl www.shishaclub.pl

VICE ADVICE Boys will be boys they say, and the shocking growth of strip clubs inside the UNESCO-listed Old Town in recent years would seem to confirm that men do indeed become lads when abroad without their WAGs. Unfortunately, with the increase in naughty clubs have come increasingly frequent reports of scams and shady, sometimes dangerous dealings. You’ve likely heard stories of inflated tabs, thuggish bouncers, unauthorised charges and spiked drinks - unfortunately these are not rumours, but real threats you need to guard yourself against because the local authorities seem either unable or unwilling to stop them. With the speed that local strip clubs now earn bad reputations and reinvent themselves, we simply can’t police them ourselves, and we don’t feel comfortable recommending any particular club to our readers. Our advice is to not feed this industry, whose treatment of its own employees is rarely better than that of its guests. If you do, however, decide to visit a strip club in Kraków, we advise you to mind your manners, deal only in cash if possible, don’t let anyone outside your group order drinks for you, and generally keep your wits about you. By doing so you’ll be doing the important research we ourselves once did, but understand that you won’t be doing it on our recommendation. 120 Kraków In Your Pocket

KLUB 30 If you’re tired of mingling with students and backpackers, or generally feeling like a geezer when you want to hit the town, we have a somewhat surprising recommendation - Klub 30, the largest club in Kraków. With four floors covering over 1000m2 of sleek walls, modern lighting, and plush colourful surfaces, Klub 30 looks the part of a cutting edge club, and despite a strict 25+ policy at the door, its popularity actually overcomes its size. The music is hardly groundbreaking, but you have three dance-floors to choose from - each with their own bar and distinct music and a there’s smoking lounge at the top. Instead of feeling like you have to prove you can keep up with the kids, here’s a club where you can enjoy behaving like one amongst your peers.QG‑7, ul. Kościuszki 3, tel. (+48) 725 70 02 15, www.krakow.klub30.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 21:00 - 04:00. X PROZAK 2.0 At once a honey-trap for horny foreigners hoping to ‘pull’ from the pool of bottle blondes happily putting drinks on their tabs, and a haven for savants for whom clubbing is ‘about the music,’ Prozak has lived on the cutting edge of Krakow’s clubbing scene for over a decade with an impressive line-up of top DJs on weekends, and probably the best sound system in town. The interior is an endless maze of underground rooms over two levels with an incredible four bars and three dance-floors on which to wild out. The crowd is just as fun, flirty and foreign-friendly as ever, with the party continuing until the natural selection of those with kittens and those with kebabs takes place in the blurry light of another dawn. QJ‑6, Pl. Dominikański 6, tel. (+48) 733 70 46 50, www.prozakdwazero.pl. Open 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 07:00. XW SHINE CLUB KRAKÓW One of Kraków’s most exclusive and fashionable clubs, Shine hosts top DJs and modelling agencies at their weekend parties which range from elaborate circus shows to silly wet t-shirt contests. Located in a 1,000m2 former cinema, this enormous space features 3 bars, 3 dancefloors (one of which is VIP), a smoking area, and enough blinking LEDs lights to send the blind into epileptic fits. The music is mostly house and r’n’b, and the modern design is truly impressive, trumped only by the seductive patrons who you’d almost suspect must

Nightlife be getting paid to populate the background of your own private Polish fantasy. Expect a 10-15zł cover at the door.QK‑6, ul. Starowiślna 16, tel. (+48) 725 70 02 25, www.krakow.shineclub.com.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 05:00. XW SPOŁEM DELUXE This off-shoot of the classic, communist-themed Społem club (ul. Św. Tomasza 4) offers more space than ever for the surprisingly stylish Soviet-era wallpaper patterns, neons, and other colourful kitsch that earn it its namesake. There’s a separate space for smoking and a mercifully selfcontained dance area where the DJ spins nostalgic pop hits inside a 1968 van, but without making conversation elsewhere impossible. Though there’s a dance party every night (except Mon & Wed, which host karaoke), craft beers and boardgames further let you know that this isn’t a typical nightclub, but one where you can come as you are (no cover!) and only hit the dancefloor if the mood strikes you. That’s our kind of place.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 53, tel. (+48) 12 341 57 51. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Wed, Thu 18:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. XW TAO RESTO CLUB This hip Asian eatery - with its glistening bar and enormous terrace - has become a cornerstone of the Tytano cultural compound by mixing traditional Asian cuisine with contemporary urban trends. In addition to the some of the best Pan-Asian food in town, Tao boasts a peerless list of innovative signature cocktails like the bold ‘Sake Martini’ which combines sake and their own vodka infused with butter-fried shrimp. On Fridays and Saturdays the kitchen stays open until 01:00, when the tables - which are attached to the ceiling with chains - are suddenly winched upwards to make way for weekend dance parties, as DJs play contemporary house hits. Magic.QG‑4, Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 785 66 99 66, www.taorestoclub. pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 03:00. BE TEATRO CUBANO Successfully simulating the sultry atmosphere of a Havana side-street as you shuffle through the crowded alleyway into the rhythmic club, this vivacious venue is a forceful breath of fresh air. Full of students and travellers from the hostel upstairs, Teatro Cubano is a perfect place to get your buzz on with cheap beer and mixed drinks served fast by efficient barmen, and you can order platters of sliders (mini-burgers) from Papitos next door. With live music every day and DJs into the wee hours, check their FB page to see what today’s party is. Diversity is something Kraków could use more of, and this place embraces it.QI‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 10, tel. (+48) 795 19 11 70. Open 15:00 05:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 15:00 - 04:00. XEW

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Activities & Leisure

An aerial view of Krakóws Jordan Park Ice Rink, with its sweet ‘ice alley.’

While drinking in bars and beer cellars is probably the number one local leisure activity, our Activities & Leisure section is geared more for families searching for kidfriendly attractions, and outdoor enthusiasts looking for ways to stay active in any season.

BOWLING & BILLIARDS PLAC NOWY 1 BOWLING Located in the basement of a modern building right on Plac Nowy, this is the nicest bowling alley in Kraków. With only six lanes, the space is intimate rather, so reservations are wise. The bar puts an emphasis on regional Polish microbrews, and you can order food from the restaurant upstairs. Prices for one lane for one hour (max 8 people) are 59-99zł depending on the day of the week and time of day.QK‑8, Pl. Nowy 1, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 11, www. placnowy1.pl. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 14:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. THE STAGE Kraków’s most atmospheric billiards club, The Stage is much more than just a pool hall and bar. In the evenings this laid-back hangout often hosts events including concerts, cabarets, and karaoke with a live band as locals rack ‘em up on the seven handsome billiards tables in front of the street-side windows. Conference and company events also organised.QI‑4, ul. Łobzowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 681 63 85, www.thestage.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00. Cost of a table ranges between 15-25zł/hr depending on the time of day. 122 Kraków In Your Pocket

ICE SKATING GALERIA KRAKOWSKA ICE RINK This small seasonal ice rink in front of the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall offers the opportunity to hit the ice immediately after jumping off the train.QK‑4, Pl. Jana Nowaka Jeziorańskiego. Open 09:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 20:30. Admission 15/12/10zł. Skate rental 10zł. JORDAN PARK ICE RINK Kraków’s best ice rink returns from mid-December inside Jordan Park, with a main 1000m2 frozen patch, separate 200m2 space for little ones, and 330m ‘ice alley’ that leaves the rink and weaves through the park before reconnecting to the main flow. There’s also a cloakroom and cafe for those in need of a warm-up.QF‑6, entrance from Al. 3-Maja 11A, tel. (+48) 697 00 83 40, www.lodowiskokrakowskieblonia.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 12/10zł for 75mins; skate rental 9zł.

INDOOR ATTRACTIONS AXE NATION Get out some pent-up aggression hurling axes in this Old Town cellar right off of ul. Grodzka. With 5 lanes for up to 5 players each, this is serious competition following the official rules of the Canadian National Axe Throwing Federation (that’s a real thing); games take 90mins and cost 250zł (2-5 players). Incredibly satisfying, and ideal for stags or ‘team building.’QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 46, tel. (+48) 518 60 89 15, www.axenation.com. Open 12:00 - 21:00.

Activities & Leisure GO JUMP The trampoline park craze has reached Kraków with this large jumping-centre en route to Nowa Huta, which boasts a multi-trampoline main arena, foam block pit and zones for fitness classes, playing dodgeball or shooting hoops. The minimum age is four years old, and the maximum is whenever your knees give out. To get here by tram take number 1 from ‘Plac Wszystkich Świętych’ or number 14 from ‘Dworzec Główny’ to ‘Centralna’; Go Jump will be on your right. Also a second location at ul. Rzemieślnicza 20G.Qul. Centralna 41A, tel. (+48) 533 39 92 45, www. krakow.gojump.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. 34zł/hr plus 5zł for (mandatory) anti-slip socks, students with valid ID 21zł/hr Mon-Thu 10:00-15:00, groups of at least ten people 25zł/hr; slightly cheaper if you book online. KRAKOW PINBALL MUSEUM Obscurely hidden in a courtyard cellar, this old school pinball arcade features 50 beautiful pinball machines, plus a scattering of other old school arcade games for good measure. Though a well-stocked bar makes their use of the term ‘museum’ seem a bit liberal, it’s clear that the aim is to create a family-friendly attraction for supple-wristed nostalgics, rather than what could probably be one of the most popular bars in town if it stayed open later. The hefty admission price is offset by free unlimited play (no coins necessary!) all day, including re-entry. A wonderful blast to the past (some of the machines are over 40 years old), specific machines in their collection include Terminator 2, Star Trek, Dr. Who, Indiana Jones, Jurassic Park and Dirty Harry.QJ‑8, ul. Stradomska 15, tel. (+48) 608 04 10 00, www.krakowpinballmuseum.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Admission 40/20zł, family ticket 100zł, kids under 7 free when accompanied by an adult. LOST SOULS ALLEY This year-round haunted house takes you on a terrifying tour through a nightmare gallery of sickening situations and encroaching peril. Participants must choose a ‘pain level,’ then work together to make their way through ten rooms (most of which are locked and you must find a key to escape) of a ramshackle apartment full of bloodspattered beds, hacked-off limbs, moaning creepers and reaching hands, some armed with stun guns (if you choose maximum pain). This isn’t a campy, Hollywood creature-feature brand of horror, but a gruesome asylum full of tortured patients, and twisted tenants; the scares are less of the pop-and-shock variety, and more effecting of psychological dread as you frantically fumble your way forward. Incredibly well-done and effectively horrifying, getting through to the end takes about 20mins, and participants must be at least 14 years old. The best way to arrange a visit is to call in advance. Discreetly hidden through a passageway off the main street, past a strip club, and up a creepy set of stairs on the first floor, visit if you dare.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 6, tel. (+48) 666 98 60 69, www.lostsoulsalley.com. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. 25zł/per person.

KRAKÓW ZOO

First opened in 1929, Kraków’s Zoo offers visitors the chance to see 1400 animals from about 270 species, while still remaining very manageable in size at only 20 hectares. Most of the exhibits are outdoors in the natural setting of Wolski Forest and there’s surprisingly little to get depressed about. Among the rare, exotic and endangered species you’ll see are Indian elephants, pygmy hippopotami, South American sea lions, Humboldt penguins, giraffes, jaguars, camels, dwarf caimans and a surprisingly impressive array of brightlyplumed pheasants (our favourite). There’s also a petting zoo, and some unavoidable snack bars. Bus 134 leaves every 30mins from ‘Cracovia Stadion’ (ul. Józefa Kałuży, G-6) and drops you off at the entrance.Qul. Kasy Oszczędności Miasta Krakowa 14, tel. (+48) 12 425 35 51, www.zoo-krakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 18/10zł.

Niebieski Art Hotel

zapraszamy na :

Kraków - Salwator ul.Flisacka 3 tel. 12 297 40 04 www.vanillaspa.pl biurospa@vanillaspa.pl

Vanil a Spa

filozofia slow spa

krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Activities & Leisure SLEIGH RIDES

The winter alternative of a horse-drawn carriage ride around Kraków’s market square, a sleigh ride through the countryside is arguably more magical and romantic, and makes for a great family outing. A traditional ride typically includes a large horse-drawn sled kitted out with sleigh bells and flaming torches winding through the beautiful snow-draped valleys surrounding Kraków and concludes with a forest bonfire, grilled sausages, tea or warm honey vodka. The companies listed here offer such excursions for all ages as long as there’s snow on the ground. ECOTRAVEL: OJCÓW SLEIGH RIDES Organising sleigh rides through the gorgeous Ojców National Park, 24km northwest of Kraków. Included in the price of the sleigh ride are torches, a bonfire with sausages and hot wine/or tea (you can bring along your own vodka). They can tailor a tour to your requirements, taking in, for example, the Kazimierz Castle ruins. Rides take approximately one hour, prices depend on the number in your party, and excursions are available whenever there’s snow on the ground. English speaking staff is available, so give them a call to make arrangements.QM‑2, Os. Niepodległości 3A/5A, Nowa Huta, tel. (+48) 12 681 36 92, www. ecotravel.pl. STADNINA KONI HUCULSKICH This farmstead about 24km west of Kraków offers snowy sleigh rides through the surrounding countryside and forest, pulled by stocky Polish hucul horses. Rides can be organised for up to 60 people at any time of day, and even in the spring and summer (on wheels of course). In addition to sleigh bells jingling, the experience also includes flaming torches, and can be followed by warming bowls of traditional soup and kiełbasa grilled over a bonfire. A great experience for kids (who will love the farm’s resident horses, goats, sheep and cats) and adults alike, and oh-so-Polish. Get a group together and call to arrange all details.QNielepice 196, tel. (+48) 12 283 87 26, www.nielepice.com.pl. 35zł per adult, 25zł per child; food is extra. 124 Kraków In Your Pocket

KRAKÓW WATER PARK The huge indoor pool complex includes 800m of water slides, dragon and pirate play areas, massage fountains, climbing walls, wave machines, and other in-water activities, probably the thing your kid will remember most about Kraków. You might not have such a bad time yourself with access to jacuzzis, saunas (1.90zł) and a pool-side cafe from which you can watch your little terrors dunk each other. Prices are 39/35zł for 2hrs and 61/48zł for day access (including sauna). Note that on weekends this place is absolutely packed.QL‑1, ul. Dobrego Pasterza 126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 91, www.parkwodny.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. OBWARZANEK MUSEUM Obwarzanki - the chewy dough rings which date back over 600 years (p.81), are synonymous with Kraków, and beloved by both its people and pigeons. If you can’t get enough of these circular snacks, learn more about them at this interactive educational museum. Discover what makes them unique, see how they’re made firsthand and even bake your own. Primarily occupied with school groups, workshops for the general public are limited to specific hours; Englishlanguage sessions take place only on Saturdays at 12:00 visit their website for bookings and more information. Each participant leaves with their very own obwarzanek to cherish forever (external conditions may apply) or chow down on immediately. During the rest of the week groups can still visit if arranged in advance, and anyone can drop in to their small cafe/shop for a coffee and a bagel.QJ‑4, ul. Paderewskiego 4, tel. (+48) 12 357 73 22, www.muzeumobwarzanka. com. Open 10:00 - 16:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 17:30. Admission 19/16zł, children under 3 free.

SKIING Kraków is just an hour north of the Tatra Mountains and within easy striking distance of popular ski destinations like Koniki, Białka Tatrzańska and Zakopane - Poland’s winter capital and home to the best skiing in the country. ANTAŁEK TRAVEL GROUP This local travel outfit organises weekend daytrips from Kraków to the Slovakian side of the Tatra Mountains to ski slopes in Kubińska Hola (3hrs), Tatrzańska Łomnicka (3hrs), Rohace (2.5hrs), Malino Brdo (4hrs) and Chopok (3hrs). Trips depart by bus as early as 06:00 or 06:30 in the morning from Al. 3 Maja near the National Museum (G-6), and return in the evening. Book through their website (Polish only), or by phone (English-speaking); check the website for prices and full details.QCholerzyn 424 (Liszki), tel. (+48) 12 631 01 05, www.antalek.pl. SKARPA TRAVEL This firm organises day-trips to popular ski destinations like Białka Tatrzańska, Jurgów and Wierholme. Transport is provided for 40-50zł (depending on destination) and space on the slopes is guaranteed. Pay an additional 90zł for the ski pass when you get there.QJ‑8, ul. Dietla 50, tel. (+48) 12 619 48 00, www.skarpatravel.pl.

Activities & Leisure SPA & BEAUTY CHAIYO THAI MASSAGE CENTRE Improve blood and limphatic circulation, release physical and mental tension, strengthen the immune system, improve joint flexibility and remove toxins from your body with an authentic Thai massage, performed solely by highly qualified Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok. The offer includes classical Thai massage, herbal compresses, oil massages, feet and legs reflexology, back, shoulder and head massages, and more. Receive a 20% discount when you present In Your Pocket. Also at ul. Dietla 103 (tel. (+48) 12 422 65 49). QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 27, tel. (+48) 530 50 05 10, www. tajskimasaz.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Massages 80-300zł. COPERNICUS SPA BY L’OCCITANE Whether you’re a guest or not, you can still enjoy some of the exquisite amenities of Hotel Copernicus, including the exclusive spa in the hotel’s gorgeous Gothic cellars. In partnership with elite French cosmetics firm L’Occitane, the experience begins as soon as you enter and the scent hits your nose. Wellness treatments are offered for men and women, singles and pairs, including an array of facials and full body massages. Signing on for a spa treatment gets you free access to the sauna and swimming pool as well (otherwise off limits to non-guests).QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 34 22, www. copernicus.hotel.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

www.Thai-Smile.pl

TRADITIONAL THAI MASSAGE

+48 531 905 965 Kraków, Krakowska 3/1

10% off on 1h massage with this guide

THAI SMILE MASSAGE Treat yourself to a range of therapeutic Thai massages performed by certified masseuses that will leave you feeling energised and balanced. If you’ve never had an authentic Thai massage, this is your chance - it’s an incredible experience, and can be a fun thing to do with a friend, partner or family member. Most massages are done in loose, non-constraining clothes to make you as comfortable as possible, and incorporate aspects of Thai traditional medicine, acupressure, yoga and even Buddhism. Give it a try and discover the wonder of getting an invigorating full body workout without doing a thing.QJ‑8, ul. Krakowska 3 lok. 1, tel. (+48) 531 90 59 65, www.thai-smile.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. VANILLA SPA This luxurious spa in the centre of the five-star Niebieski Hotel is a palace of pampering for your mind and body thanks to a variety of holistic treatments in relaxing environs. Spoil your skin through a series of peels and masks using top of the line cosmetics and munch on organic ‘bio snacks’ courtesy of the Vanilla Sky restaurant between trips to the sauna, steam bath, and massage tables. Walk in for a free consultation to have their experts create your own personal care programme.QF‑8, ul. Flisacka 3 (Niebieski Art Hotel & Spa), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 04, www.vanillaspa.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00.

TAO THERAPY Escape to this massage therapy centre in Podgórze and immerse yourself in a space where you can let go of your stress, relax your body and reinvigorate your senses. Tao offers a range of traditional massages and body treatments, including traditional Thai massage, hot lava stone massage, hot herbal compress massage, facials, foot reflexology and aroma therapy massages. Treat yourself or your partner to some TLC by expert masseuses from Thailand and the Philippines.QK‑10, ul. Józefińska 4/3 (1st floor), tel. (+48) 695 66 69 99, www.taospa.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Local Gifts & Souvenirs Despite it’s enormous size, it only takes strolling past a few stalls in the Cloth Hall to realise that the variety of items inside is quite limited. If you find amber underwhelming (it’s just tree sap?!) and pottery a bit too geriatric, here are some uniquely Cracovian products we think are worth checking out. For more ideas scan through our Shopping listings beginning on p.128, or visit the Poland IYP Shop: iyp.me/polandshop.

MADE IN KRAKOW CALENDAR 2019

Each year, local Cracovian photographer, funnyman and friend of IYP, Przemek Czaja, gathers his best work from the year into this beautiful wall calendar. Featuring 12 wonderful full size and full colour images of the city as seen through his inimitable lens, through all seasons, this calendar is so handsome it will make your paintings jealous and your curtains blush. Each image measures 28 x 40cm and can be framed once the year is up. The calendar itself is in English and Polish. To order a copy go to iyp.me/polandshop, and to see more of Przemek’s work check out madeinkrakow.pl.

GLASS ART FROM THE STAINED GLASS MUSEUM

Kraków’s Stained Glass Museum (p.70) is not only a fascinating place to explore, but also a great place to pick up some beautiful and unique souvenirs. All of the stained glass pieces on sale are made on-site in the historic workshop using the same techniques that have been employed for centuries. Each piece is handsomely packed and includes an official certificate of authenticity, as well as a special holder so you can display it anywhere in your home.QG‑6, Al. Krasińskiego 23, tel. (+48) 512 93 79 79, www.stainedglass.pl. Open 11:30 - 18:00, Closed Mon, Sun.

BLAZKO JEWELLERY

Don’t fancy amber? Not a problem. Head down to Kazimierz’s Józefa Street and drop in on Grzegorz Błażko - a local artist and designer, well-known and admired for his unique, colourful, high quality jewellery. Working in silver, brass, synthetic materials and acrylic, Błażko creates beautiful, highly sought-after rings, bracelets, pendants, earrings and more, in which you might notice touches of Hundertwasser, Miro and Klimt. Quite a character himself, his gallery is also his workshop, making a visit an intimate encounter with the artist at his craft.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 11, tel. (+48) 579 05 64 56, www.blazko.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.

POLISH POSTER ART

Those with an eye for graphics should know that Poland has a long tradition of graphic art, particularly posters for film, theatre and advertising. Rather than some cheap trinkets, take home the entire Cloth Hall with this artistic print - one of literally hundreds available in Dydo Poster Gallery, a family gallery in the former Cracovia Hotel. In addition to poster exhibits, browse binders of relatively unknown Polish designs for beloved Hollywood films and stage productions, not to mention stacks of postcards for those not ready to travel with a poster tube. QG‑6, ul. Focha 1, tel. (+48) 790 79 22 44. www.dydopostergallery.com. Open 14:30 - 18:30. 126 Kraków In Your Pocket

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang. Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand. Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls. Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry.

KRAKÓW, 27 Świętego Tomasza Street lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

Shopping

Kraków’s Cloth Hall in holiday form

While Kraków can hardly be considered a shoppers’ paradise in the traditional sense, its artsy reputation makes it a great place to pick up antiques, artwork and jewellery. Areas of note include Kazimerz’s ulica Józefa (K-8), which is lined with galleries, while the Cloth Hall (open roughly 10:00 20:00, I-5) in the middle of the market square is obvious for typical souvenirs. For the generic western experience you can hit one of the shopping malls we list, however throughout this section we’ve made a concentrated effort to focus not on international name brands, but unique, home-grown businesses. You’ll find more local gift ideas and direct buying opportunities online in the Poland IYP Shop: iyp.me/polandshop.

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN Shops in Poland have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but since March 2018 new regulations on Sunday trading have been in effect. In 2018 trade has been allowed on only the first and last Sundays of each month, forcing shops to close on the intervening Sundays. Beginning in 2019, trade will only be allowed on the last Sunday of each month. There are only a few exemptions to the rule, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets and souvenir shops (oh thank god). Note that the Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep only on those Sundays when trade is allowed. The following are those Sundays when shops are allowed to be OPEN: Dec. 2, 16, 23, 30 | Jan. 27 | Feb. 24 128 Kraków In Your Pocket

AMBER & JEWELLERY GALERIA ORA Our personal go-to gift shop whenever pesky hallmark holidays or anniversaries rear their obligation-inducing heads, Galeria Ora features a great selection of unique jewellery for both sexes, the high originality and artistic value of which sets it apart. Of particular interest is their use of oxidisation to create a more earthy aesthetic from precious metals. Just steps from the market square, this is the perfect place to find an interesting gift and prices are well within reason. Also note that despite PL’s Sunday trade ban, Ora is open every Sunday.QI‑5, ul. Św. Anny 3, tel. (+48) 781 66 12 12, www.galeria-ora.com. Open 10:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. LILOU This Polish jewellery brand has become popular across the world for their customised jewellery - primarily pendants, charms and chains - which can be engraved on-site with whatever personalised message you’re able to dream up. Glamorous but not intimidating, Lilou jewellery is made of 14 karat gold, 925 silver or 23 karat plated-gold, and their Kraków boutique is staffed by immaculately-attired ladies keen to assist you with your decision.QJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 27, tel. (+48) 12 312 13 93, www.lilouparis. com. Open 11:00 - 19:00. SYNCRET This outstanding shop specialises in vintage and modern fine jewellery, made with diamonds and natural stones. The selection is carefully curated to only include truly exceptional diamonds and stones, all of which come with

Shopping valuation documents, can be made into rings matching the customer’s exact specifications, and even resized for free at a later date. Compare Syncret with other stores in town and you’ll quickly see that the quality of the stones, and also the personalised customer service they offer, is a cut above the competition.QI‑6, ul. Bracka 8, tel. (+48) 797 65 70 80, www.syncret.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. WORLD OF AMBER Like a mosquito encased in golden resin, amber is inextricable from the history of Poland and Kraków. Baltic amber is the most desired of all, and tourist-laden Kraków’s location on the Amber Route means you’ve got one of the best selections in the world, crafted by master jewellers. Truth in advertising, this Schubert showcase shop really is a wondrous world of amber, with items ranging from rings and pendants to dragons and chess sets. Also at ul. Floriańska 13 and 22 (J-5), and ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Hotel, H-7).QJ‑6, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 12 430 21 14, www. worldofamber.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

ART & DESIGN DEKOR ART If you’re not familiar with Bolesławiec - Poland’s wellloved folk ceramic brand - head here straightaway to get introduced. Crammed full of colourful tableware with simple, hand-painted and highly-recognisable folk motifs, this shop is sure to help you make someone on your list happy. Now a second location nearby at ul. Sławkowska 9. QI‑5, ul. Sławkowska 11, tel. (+48) 515 45 29 69, www. dekorbuy.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:15 - 17:00.

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FORUM DESIGNU This large, spacious showroom for Polish interior design and home accessories is one of the most fashionable places in town. Though some European firms are represented, the emphasis here is on unique local design using sustainable production methods, and the result is an impressive, notat-all petite sales boutique. An added bonus is the attached cafe and Forum Mody fashion showroom, together with which they organise numerous design fairs, workshops and other events throughout the year.QG‑6, ul. Focha 1 (Hotel Cracovia), tel. (+48) 604 05 64 77, www.forumdesignu. pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. GALERIA LUELUE This charming photography gallery/shop embraces a pre-war sepia-toned perspective on Kraków through old photographs, paintings, postcards and posters, offset by more cheeky graphic designs from contemporary artists. With an emphasis on early urbania, architecture and romance, this is a great place to pick up high-quality reproductions of nostalgic photographs printed on canvas, or even on linen shoulder bags. They’ll even print your own images and designs if you upload them on their website. QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 22, tel. (+48) 728 55 10 24, www. luelue.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Shopping BOOKS IN ENGLISH

Massolit

Kraków truly is a city of literature - a local bragging point legitimised by the fact that it was here that the first books in the Polish language were published (in the 16th century) and the first bookstore in Europe opened back in 1610 (at Rynek Główny 23, C-3, today Empik bookstore). Many of PL’s most famous authors have called Kraków home - in fact for decades it was the only city with two resident Nobel Prize for Literature winners in Wisława Szymborska and Czesław Miłosz - and the city hosts numerous literary cafes, festivals and events. Kraków’s literary reputation was officially cemented in 2013 when it became a UNESCO City of Literature - the first on mainland Europe. GALICIA JEWISH MUSEUM BOOKSHOP This popular museum in Kazimierz is also home to the largest Jewish bookshop in Poland, with thousands of titles in Polish, English, German and French. Ranging from their own museum publications to novels, memoirs, photo albums and guidebooks, plus some other souvenirs - everything is also available to order online and can be shipped internationally.QL‑8, ul. Dajwór 18, tel. (+48) 12 422 17 36, www.galiciajewishmuseum.org. Open 10:00 - 18:00. MASSOLIT BOOKS & CAFÉ Arguably the best English-language bookstore in Central Europe, owing in large part to its unique cafe atmosphere. With books on all subjects and specialising in Polish, East European and Jewish literature, here you’ll also find recent English language periodicals (store copies) to peruse over coffee or wine, with a bagel or slice of pie. The selection is surprisingly good, and the prices are the best you’ll find anywhere. If you’re on an extreme budget you can even trade the novel you finished on the train for credit towards a new one. Also look for their bakery nearby at ul. Smoleńsk 17 (H-6), and bistro in Kazimierz (K-8).QH‑6, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel. (+48) 12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. 130 Kraków In Your Pocket

FASHION & ACCESSORIES CHORĄŻY CAPS & HATS Maybe you aren’t aware, but Polish old man hats are surprisingly stylish and this family shop is where to get one. Affectionately known as ‘the Hat Guy,’ give Józef the hatmaker a head and he’ll hand you a handsome, perfectly fitting hat. Bring in your own fabric and he’ll even custom make one for you. With Józef’s name and his shop’s Cracovian address sewn into each one, these hats make a great gift and keepsake, as well as being evidence of a world that is rapidly vanishing. And they’re a bargain. Józef doesn’t speak English, but there shouldn’t be much mystery between the two of you; it’s not like you’re trying to draft legislation - it’s a hat, he’s a hat guy.QJ‑9, ul. Krakowska 35A, tel. (+48) 608 28 26 31, www.czapkichorazy.prv.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. IDEA FIX CONCEPT STORE The ‘idea’ here is promoting contemporary, young, independent Polish artists and designers - and for once we’re not talking about painted angels or folk pottery. This shop is straight Soho (NYC) with an alternative urban chic style and attitude that will hopefully encourage Kraków’s hundreds of DJs to pick up their duds somewhere other than H&M. Championing sustainable consumption, drop in this stylish concept store to check out clothing and accessories by independent local designers, Polish films and music, Polish fibre arts, interior design and more.Qul. Stradomska 16, tel. (+48) 515 54 52 52, www.ideafix.pl. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. PAN TU NIE STAŁ This Łódź-based family-owned business blossomed out of a blog obsessed with Polish communist-era design, typography and cultural artefacts, which soon developed into a design firm manufacturing contemporary hipster apparel inspired by PRL graphics and culture. Clever, trendy and tongue-firmly-in-cheek, choose from t-shirts featuring the faces of Stanisław Lem or Pan Kleks, fanny packs that say ‘Cześć’ (Hi), hats that say ‘bajzel’ (shambles), Soviet nostalgia photo albums, handleless mugs, shoulder bags, posters, postcards and more. In terms of local design that is useful, affordable and overtly Polish, it doesn’t get any better than this.QL‑9, ul. Nadwiślańska 9, tel. (+48) 667 43 26 71, www.pantuniestal.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. ROCK SHOP You know a city has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe, and is there anything which says ‘I’ve been there’ more than a Hard Rock t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the ‘Kraków’ tee to add to your collection at the shop inside the HRC opposite St. Mary’s Basilica. Classic white may cost 100zł, but the memory of buying it - priceless.QJ‑5, Rynek Główny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, www.hardrock.com/ krakow. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

Shopping FOOD & SWEETS DELIKATESY 13 Located in the basement of Kraków’s nicest, most central shopping mall, this Italian delicatessen offers a wide range of high-quality edible goods including over 100 varieties of Italian cheese and meats, parma ham, truffles, cooking oils and balsamic vinaigrettes, as well as delicious locally-made preservative free honeys and jams. Pies, pastries and cakes are also made daily. The ideal place to go if you’re planning an intimate dinner party, Delikatesy 13 is packed with outstanding goods, and the adjacent wine shop offers a top selection.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 13 (Pasaż 13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 27, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 17:00. KOPERNIK A tradition dating all the way back to the 15th century, gingerbread from this brand based in Toruń, PL is worldrenowned (read more about it on p.91), and you can purchase their wide range of novelty sweets in Kraków at this enticing shop.QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 14, tel. (+48) 12 431 13 06, www.kopernik.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 20:00.

BUTIK LFC – GUCCI, CHLOE, SAINT LAURENT, MOSCHINO, STELLA MCCARTNEY, BALMAIN, SEE BY CHLOE, PAUL SMITH, KENZO, PHILIPP PLEIN, OFF WHITE, DSQUARED2, DIOR, PLEIN SPORT, JUST CAVALLI, ISABEL MARANT, VERSACE, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, JIMMY CHOO, MONCLER, GIVENCHY, MARSELL, MARNI, RICK OWENS, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI, MARC JACOBS, GOLDEN GOOSE, FENDI, AMI, LOST AND FOUND, LANVIN, MAISON MARGIELA, ALLSAINTS, ACNE, VALENTINO RED, MCM, VICTORIA BECKHAM, RAG&BONE, ETRO, ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI, AMIRI, ANDRE GRAND – COLETTI, CERRUTI 1881, THOMPSON LONDON, VERSACE, BAGATT, DIESEL, DIAMANTI, DESERT ROSE, EWA RODZINKA CONCEPT ROOM, LOUVE WITH EVOLUE – ROBERT KUPISZ, PAPROCKI & BRZOZOWSKI, GOSIA BACZYŃSKA, ŁUKASZ JEMIOŁ, 303 AVENUE, NATALIA JAROSZYŃSKA, WESTWOOD EYEWEAR, MAGGIE PIU, MANIEWSKI, NORD SHOES STUDIO, NESPRESSO, MANIEWSKI, KLUB „U LOUISA”, LCONCEPT 13 - BAR & RESTAURANT 13, DELIKATESY 13, VINOTEKA 13

PRODUKTY BENEDYKTYŃSKIE This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey just outside Kraków, sells such an astounding variety of products - cheese, jam, wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two eyebrows over how they find the time. All the products are completely natural, without pigment and make excellent gifts. Naturally, you can also get them online or straight from their source: Tyniec Abbey. QJ‑9, ul. Krakowska 29, tel. (+48) 12 422 02 16, www. produktybenedyktynskie.com.pl. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Sat 09:30 - 14:00, Closed Sun. SZAMBELAN A huge selection of special vodkas, meads and Polish absinthes decanted from enormous Erlenmeyer flasks. The exotic bottles make for ideal last minute gifts which they can ship for you, or go ghetto fab by refilling a plastic bottle and stuffing it in your luggage (or just strolling the Planty... wait, no). Sample first, sample often.QI‑6, ul. Gołębia 2 (entrance from ul. Bracka 9), tel. (+48) 12 628 70 93, www.szambelan.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. WIERZYNEK ROYAL CHOCOLATE WORKSHOP This classy sweet shop on the ground floor of Kraków’s most famous dining destination is everything you’d expect based on its unrivalled pedigree. Enjoy the prime Rynek real estate while taking in the sight and smell of pralines, truffles and other chocolaty creations - all of which are made on-site and can be taken home in snazzy gift-boxes - or comfortably order later from their online shop.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 36, www.slodkiwierzynek.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00.

MAIN MARKET SQUARE 13 OPEN: 9 AM - 9 PM; 11 AM - 5 PM

www.pasaz-13.pl

www.concept13.pl krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Shopping OPEN-AIR MARKETS

SHOPPING MALLS BONARKA Located in Podgórze, Bonarka offers 91,000m2 of retail space with about 230 shops, over 20 restaurants and cafes, the largest cinema complex in the city and 3,200 free parking spaces. Built on the site of a former chemical plant, the modern design features a fountain and glass ceiling, while retaining the original factory smokestack. To get there take buses 144, 169, 173, 174, 179 or 184 getting off at the ‘Bonarka’ stop.Qul. Kamieńskiego 11 (Podgórze), tel. (+48) 12 298 60 00, www.bonarkacitycenter.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00.

Stary Kleparz

Kraków’s markets are the best places to get local fruit and produce beyond the selection of strictly white root veggies found in most shops. Add to that meats, cheeses, doorknobs, dog leashes, pagers, potholders and literally anything else you can think of and you’ve got yourself a nifty cultural experience as well. PLAC NOWY This historic square was a Jewish market in the prewar days, with a kosher slaughterhouse in the rotunda. Today you’ll still find butcher shops inside, while fast food windows line the exterior. In the open trading stalls surrounding the roundhouse produce and junk are sold daily, but in the mornings you never know what you’ll find: on Sundays it’s all clothing, while Friday mornings it’s a full-on pigeon fair from 06:00 to 08:00. Other markets begin around 08:00 and generally end by mid-afternoon.QK‑8, www.placnowy.pl. PLAC TARGOWY UNITARG Open every day with everything from fruit, flowers and produce to pirated DVDs, dodgy underwear and cheap wristwatches, on Sundays this outdoor market becomes a sprawling full-blown flea market of antiques, Catholic icons, village detritus, vinyl records, war memorabilia, stolen bikes and anything else you can dream of at negotiable prices. Different vendors set their own hours, but on weekends most are here shortly after dawn and packing up anytime between 14:00 and sunset.QK‑6, ul. Grzegórzecka, tel. (+48) 12 429 61 55, www.unitarg.krakow.pl. STARY KLEPARZ A tradition of over 800 years, this large, covered marketplace just north of the Barbican offers bargain prices and the best selection in the city for local produce, fruit, meat and cheeses, in addition to spices, socks, sweaters and whatever oddball commodities are the order of the day during your visit.QJ‑4, Rynek Kleparski 20, tel. (+48) 12 634 15 32, www. starykleparz.com. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. 132 Kraków In Your Pocket

FACTORY OUTLET This outlet mall 15mins by car from the centre features 120 foreign and domestic brands - including Levi’s, Reserved, Calvin Klein, Guess, Gino Rossi, Benetton, Wittchen, Simple, Pepe Jeans, New Balance, Timberland and more - at 30-70% off the prices you’d expect elsewhere.Qul. Rożańskiego 32, Modlniczka, tel. (+48) 12 297 35 00, www.krakow. factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00, Note that opening hours may change in January. GALERIA KAZIMIERZ Opened in 2005 and recently refreshed, Galeria Kazimierz is Kraków’s most likeable shopping mall, boasting over 160 retail units including Guess, H&M, Reserved, United Colors of Benetton, Big Star, Zara and Swarovski, plus plenty of food options. For recreational needs GK also touts a cinema and fitness club. Easily accessed on foot, those arriving by car have 1,500 parking spaces to pick from (free on weekends, first 2hrs free Mon-Fri).QM‑8, ul. Podgórska 34, tel. (+48) 12 433 01 01, www.galeriakazimierz.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. GALERIA KRAKOWSKA This is a hard one to miss, since it’s been sneakily incorporated into the train station. Covering 60,000m2 over 3 floors, among their 250 stores you’ll find H&M, Zara, Reserved, and Media Markt, plus 1400 parking spaces, and a bustling food court. The mall and large square in front of it also host frequent exhibits and events.QK‑4, ul. Pawia 5, tel. (+48) 12 428 99 00, www.galeriakrakowska.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. PASAŻ 13 This gorgeous Rynek townhouse was converted into a snazzy upscale shopping area in 2005 to become the first branch of the Likus Concept Stores. Nicer than your typical mall, Pasaż 13 has over a dozen designer shops, including their own Likus Fashion Concept (a curated collection of top brands like Gucci, Saint Laurent, Marc Jacobs), Louve with Evolue (top Polish designers), Andre Grande, Nord Shoes Studio, Diesel and more, plus Louis Music Club & Pub (p.116) and the L Concept 13 Bar & Restaurant (p.106).QI‑6, Rynek Główny 13, tel. (+48) 12 617 02 27, www.pasaz-13.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.