Krakow In Your Pocket - April - May 2019 by Poland In Your Pocket

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Kraków No. 117, April – May 2019

With the Kids

p.6

Easter Rituals

p.10

Polish Design

p.112

City Guide

Contents

Kraków

Feature Kraków with the Kids

p.6

Events

Easter in Kraków

12 10

Arrival & Transport

Sightseeing

24 Old Town - walking tour of UNESCO treasures 26 Wawel - Royal Castle complex 36 Kazimierz - walking tour of former Jewish district 40 Podgórze - wartime traces and scenic cliffs 48 Nowa Huta - Socialist Realism suburb 56 Museums 60

Activities & Experiences

Day Trips Wieliczka - medieval salt mine Auschwitz-Birkenau - former Nazi death camp Tarnów - Małopolska’s charming 2nd city

72 74 76

Local Flavours 7 Essential Eating Experiences Traditional Polish Dishes Must-try Polish Alcohols

78 82 105

Cafés

Restaurants

Nightlife

104

Shopping

114

Polish Design

112

Spa & Wellness

120

Directory

122

Hotels

124

Maps & Indexes City Map Old Town Map Kazimierz Map Podgórze Map Nowa Huta Map Street Index Venue Index Feature & Category Index

130 26 40 48 56 132 133 134

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Foreword As the beloved Polish lyricist Marek Grechuta once so famously said, ‘Spring, ach - it’s you’ (Wiosna, ach - to ty), and we assume he had allergies or he wouldn’t have sneezed in the middle. Nevertheless, Poles have been repeating the phrase verbatim ever since, and now it’s our turn as Grechuta’s home city of Kraków has its spring buzz on in a big way, from the leggy sunbathers on the Wisła boulevards to the lusty pigeons in the bowers. With temperatures and hemlines on the rise, there’s no better time to be in Poland’s ancient capital, so put this printed resource to good use and go enjoy it. There’s much to look forward to over the next two months, from Easter festivities (p.10) to the Film Music Festival (p.12), so check our Events section (p.12) to see what’s on while you’re in town. Never content without new content, this issue we’re debuting three new sections which will become fixtures in the guide going forward: Kids & Families (this issue’s feature, p.6), Activities & Experiences (p.70) and Polish Design (p.112). With this meticulously detailed guide we continue to prove that you can get all the good advice and info you need while travelling, without constantly going online. And in this day and age that’s, ach, nothing to sneeze at. Na zdrowie! A true ‘man without a country’ in the current political climate, Garrett Van Reed is a native of Bucks County, Pennsylvania, who has been living in and writing about Kraków for over a decade. He enjoys exploring his adopted city, unpacking its complex history, and introducing its best attributes to those who visit.

4 Kraków In Your Pocket

COVER STORY For majestic views of morning sun on an unpeopled market square like the one gracing this issue’s cover, you have to wake up pretty early, but we’ve proven that staying up all night is just as effective. Follow us on instagram @polandinyourpocket.

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 20,000 copies published every 2 months Writer & Editor: Garrett Van Reed Sales: Monika Szymanek: (+48) 668 87 63 51 Events: Monika Boguszewska Stopka (+48) 728 87 94 94, Agata Janik, Katarzyna Mrozewska-Fenz Research: Mateusz Gofroń, Dominika Sosnowska, Patrycja Ples Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

HEIGHTEN YOUR SENSES FASHION HUNTING SEASON HAS JUST STARTED

FACTORY KRAKÓW OUTLET CENTER: Prof. A. Rożańskiego 32, Modlniczka 5-MINUTE DRIVE FROM KRAKÓW AIRPORT

Kraków with the Kids

The market square and the pathways below Wawel Castle are a strong bet for giant bubbles. | Wojciech Wandzel www.wandzelphoto.com

Most visitors fall in love with Kraków, but one complaint we’ve heard is that it isn’t the most family-friendly city. Pushing a pram down crowded sidewalks and cobbled streets is a drag, you can’t always expect your kids to care or keep quiet in churches, memorial sites and museums, and the city’s famous nightlife is basically off limits. There must be something else to do in this town, right? Rest assured, there is. We’ve created this section to identify exactly those things, offer some friendly advice, and help the whole family have a great time together in Kraków.

HELPFUL HINTS & IDEAS Of course the first step to having a great family vacation is to accept that what you want to do, and what your kids want to do aren’t likely to be one and the same. That said, there’s no reason you can’t find some common ground among Kraków’s major attractions. The market square is always entertaining with street performers, giant bubbles, fairs and concerts to explore. Everyone also has Wawel (p.36) on their list, but most of the exhibits will prove too lengthy and tedious for young attention spans; you can still say you saw it by strolling around the numerous gardens and courtyards (for free, no less). Kids love the legend of the Wawel Dragon, and Dragon’s Den (p.39), touristy as it may be, is a perfect way to exit Wawel to the riverbank below where you can take photos of your kids climbing all over the famous fire-breathing dragon monument. 6 Kraków In Your Pocket

Sometimes the best thing to do when there are easilytired kids involved and you want to see as much as possible is to sign on for a guided tour (p.70). Though you won’t learn much, a horse-drawn carriage ride (p.71) is irresistible to kids (and wives), and will send you home with some photos of your dashing fam sightseeing in style. By the same token, kids will enjoy travelling up and down the river in one of the many charming cruise boats available for hire beneath Wawel (I-8). Other times all you need to save a situation is a playground, so note that these are clearly marked on the maps throughout our guide. There are several in the centre, of which the playground in Park Krakowski (G-4) reigns supreme, followed by Park Jordana (F-5). When it comes to culture, Kraków is home to scores of museums, which will have varying degrees of interest for kids. The Engineering Museum (p.62) is a top choice, with interactive exhibits designed for kids, while older kids rank Rynek Underground (p.67) as a favourite thanks to its modern, multimedia displays. The Polish Aviation Museum (p.66) can also fascinate and is largely outdoors, and the Barbican is a lot of fun for running around (p.27). There’s also the Natural History Museum (p.66) if the Zoo (p.8) is too far or the weather is bad. For more ideas kidsinkrakow.pl.

iyp.me/krakowkids

Kraków with the Kids INDOORS CIUCIU CUKIER ARTIST Touting themselves as the ‘world’s smallest candy factory,’ this shop is indeed pint-sized and completely charming. Ciuciu specialises in personalised hard candies and bonbons, made on-site in dozens of flavours. Demonstrations are given every hour on the hour from 11:00 to 18:00, after which you can make your own lollipop during their 10zł workshops. Great fun for kids, who can participate in making candy or just gobble up the free samples on offer.QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 698 52 15 42, www.ciuciukrakow.pl. Open 10:00-19:00. From May open 10:00-20:00. GO JUMP The trampoline park craze has reached Kraków with this large jumping-centre in Podgórze which boasts a multitrampoline main arena, foam block pit and zones for fitness classes, playing dodgeball or shooting hoops. For most areas the minimum age is four years old, and the maximum is whenever your knees give out, but there’s also a section for smaller children (Go Kidz) now.Qul. Rzemieślnicza 20G, tel. (+48) 577 33 23 35, www.krakow.gojump.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-22:00. 34zł/hr plus 5zł for (mandatory) anti-slip socks, students with valid ID 21zł/hr Mon-Thu 10:00-15:00, groups of at least ten people 25zł/hr; slightly cheaper if you book online. KLOCKOLAND Right in the Old Town, this family attraction is for anyone, young and old, who loves LEGO or robots. Not your typical LEGO exhibit, Klockoland offers three play zones, the first and foremost of which features 50 stations with robots made from various LEGO that you can control and bring to life via various control pads. There’s also a play zone where you can build whatever you want out of LEGO Duplo, Classic and Technic bricks, and a workshop zone where the staff show you how to make your own robots out of LEGO Wedo (for kids 4+) and Mindstorm (kids 7+). Great fun, and even a challenge for adults, but school groups are frequent, so its wise to reserve tickets through their website. QJ‑5, ul. Mikołajska 13, tel. (+48) 667 89 93 17, www.klockoland. eu. Open 10:00-16:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 24/21zł per person, kids under 4 free.

Come see how our sweets are made. Every hour from 11 a.m. till 6 p.m. The Smallest Candy Manufacturer in the World tel. +48 698 521 542 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. ciuciukrakow@gmail.com www.ciuciukrakow.pl Zakopane, 11 Krupówki St. Kraków, 38 Grodzka St.

Klockoland

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Kraków with the Kids FAMILY-FRIENDLY RESTAURANTS When it’s time to eat, look for the Child-friendly symbol T at the end of venue listings to see which establishments claim to have things like high chairs and play corners. Our top picks are the Bezogródek food truck park (p.81), Zabłocie 13 with its outdoor playground (p.50), and Pod Wawelem (p.100) - an enormous beer hall with plenty of tables, large portions of cheap Polish food your kids will eat, live music in the evenings, and a huge indoor rumpus room that will keep your kids happily occupied while you clink steins with your partner. KRAKÓW WATER PARK This huge indoor pool complex includes 800m of water slides, dragon and pirate play areas, massage fountains, climbing walls and other in-water activities, and is probably the thing your kid will remember most about Kraków. You might not have such a bad time yourself with access to jacuzzis, saunas (1.90/1.60zł per minute) and a pool-side cafe from which you can watch your little terrors dunk each other. Prices are 39/34zł for 2hrs and 55/43zł for day access (including sauna), and go up on weekends when this place is so packed that in our opinion it’s best avoided.QL‑1, ul. Dobrego Pasterza 126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 91, www. parkwodny.pl. Open 08:00-22:00.

OUTDOORS KRAKÓW ZOO First opened in 1929, Kraków’s Zoo offers visitors the chance to see 1400 animals from about 270 species, while still remaining very manageable in size at only 20 hectares. Most of the exhibits are outdoors in the natural setting of Wolski Forest and there’s surprisingly little to get depressed about. With younger kids, don’t miss the petting zoo (open until 18:30). Bus 134 leaves every 30mins from ‘Cracovia Stadion’ (ul. Józefa Kałuży, G-6) and drops you off at the entrance.Qul. Kasy Oszczędności Miasta Krakowa 14, tel. (+48) 12 425 35 51, www.zoo-krakow.pl. Open 09:00-19:00. Admission 15/8zł.

KRYSPINÓW Kraków’s favourite sun, sand and swimming destination is the artificial beaches at Kryspinów Lagoon. With no less than four separate sandy pitches on the reservoir (though note that only one beach has lifeguards), there is plenty of space for everyone, despite the area’s immense popularity. About 12km away from Kraków, Kryspinów also features a range of attractions including boat rental, windsurfing and wakeboarding instruction (available in English), zorbing and quads, flyboarding, playgrounds, a ropes course, beach volleyball, and plenty of drinking and eating options. It’s also a popular party destination on weekends, organising numerous events. Though outside city limits, you can still get there by Kraków public transit from the Salwator tram roundabout (E-8); take bus 209 to the ‘Budzyń Zalew na Piaskach’ stop, or bus 269 to the ‘Budzyń Plaża Główna’ stop. Note that both stops are ‘by request’ and that you need a 4/2zł ticket that covers both zones I and II.QLiszki, tel. (+48) 502 37 01 81, www.kryspinow. com.pl. Open from May 1st 08:00-22:00. Admission 12/6zł, kids under 6 free; half-price after 17:00. Parking 10zł. STANISŁAW LEM SCIENCE GARDEN A fun, interactive, educational park for kids named after local sci-fi author Stanisław Lem. This 7 hectare science park features different stations engaging kids in optical illusions, acoustics and the laws of physics, with explanations in Polish and English Though teenagers will roll their eyes, it’s a fun outing for younger children, and a nice change of pace from modern multimedia museums. Be prepared that some of the most exciting attractions for older kids - namely zorbing, the human gyroscope and bungee trampoline all cost extra (5zł). Reserve 90mins to visit the park in its entirety and get there via trams 1, 14 or 22, getting off at the ‘M1 Al. Pokoju’ stop; alternatively, a cab from the centre is about 25zł.QAl. Pokoju 68 (Czyżyny), tel. (+48) 12 346 12 85, www.ogroddoswiadczen.pl. Open 8:30-19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00. From May open 8:30-20:30; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:30. Admission 12/10zł, children under 3 free. Family ticket 35zł.

ICE CREAM Kraków has an obscene amount of ice cream parlours, making avoiding the topic with your kids basically impossible. As such, we recommend you do it right. Good Lood is a Kraków-based brand that uses only local dairy products and natural ingredients. They come up with some pretty unusual flavours (different at each location) and unlike most European parlours, they don’t skimp on the serving sizes (don’t over-do it!). With dozens of locations all over the centre, keep your kids’ urges at bay until you see one. Yes, the lines are long, but it’s worth it. Most locations open 11:00-22:00. 8 Kraków In Your Pocket

Stanisław Lem Science Garden

Easter in Kraków

As a deeply Catholic country, Poland takes its Easter (Wielkanoc) celebrations very seriously. This is arguably the most important holiday of the year for devout Poles, but an important time to spend with family for all Poles, regardless of their religious views. As such, you can expect bars and restaurants to be largely empty of locals or completely closed from Good Friday to Easter Sunday (April 19 - April 21); shops are typically closed on Easter Sunday and Monday (April 21 - 22), which are official holidays. Poland’s Easter festivities officially kick off with Palm Sunday (April 14) - so named for the palm branches laid on the ground before Jesus on his entrance into Jerusalem. As the Polish climate isn’t particularly conducive to palm trees, Catholic Poles invented their own ‘palms’ - elaborately handwoven wands made from a variety of dried flowers and plants. Rather than trample them however, Poles take their palms to church to be blessed on Palm Sunday, after which they become home decorations. Leading up to the holiday you’ll see these traditional folk crafts for sale in all sizes and colours on Kraków’s market square during the city’s annual Easter Fair (April 11-22). As any true Polish mother will attest, you can’t bring an Easter palm home to a dirty domicile, and the week leading up to Easter Sunday is traditionally a time of spring cleaning, as well as attending mass (again on Thursday to remember the Last Supper, and on Good Friday to attend 10 Kraków In Your Pocket

stations of the cross). Easter eggs - known as ‘pisanki’ are also hard-boiled, dyed (traditionally with onion skins) and hand-decorated by families in the lead-up to Easter. On Easter Saturday (April 20), these eggs are added - along with other small portions of food that will be eaten the following morning: sausage, bread, salt, beets, horseradish, and a symbolic ram made of dough - to traditional Easter baskets and taken to church to be blessed. In the evening keep an eye and an ear out for orderly crowds walking through the streets crying “Hallelujah! Hallelujah!” Known as Rezurekcja (Resurrection), this processional mass often features torches, tall crosses and loud speakers, and held either Saturday night or Easter morning depending on parish tradition.

Elaborate hand-painted eggs (pisanki) at the Easter Market.

Easter in Kraków On the morning of Easter Sunday (April 21) - the most important day of the entire Wielki Tydzień (Great Week) families gather together for the Easter feast. With the dough ram on the table to symbolise Christ’s resurrection, before the meal begins each person takes a small wedge of the blessed egg and exchanges wishes with the other members of the family, before capping it off with a big ‘Hallelujah’ and digging in. The Easter morning spread is usually a smorgasbord of cold dishes, including cold cuts of sausage, ham and pate, potato salad and beets, and pickled herring. While the only hot dishes traditionally served are żurek (Polish rye soup) and white sausages, there are of course plenty of desserts, including mazurek (a decoratively iced dessert pie), makowiec (poppy seed cake) and cheesecake. Although decidedly bunny-free, things do finally take on a more lighthearted air on Easter Monday (April 22). Known as ‘Śmigus Dyngus,’ this day is dominated by public water fights and everyone is given carte blanche to drench anyone they see with water. As a foreigner, you are not exempt from this practice, so move fast if you see someone armed with a water pistol or a bucket and a grin. Although it’s never pleasant to have a jug of water thrown over your head, this is an improvement over the past when young people were beaten with sticks from Palm Sunday trees; apparently either will bring you luck. Easter Monday is also an official day off, and seemingly every family in town heads to the Emaus fair in Salwator. Then, once most Catholics are safely back at work on Tuesday, the pagan pageantry of the Rękawka Festival unfolds around Krakus Mound with swords clashing and fires blazing. Happy Easter!

EASTER EVENTS 11.04 - 22.04 » EASTER MARKET

Get all your Easter needs from the stalls at this popular spring market: palms, painted eggs, doilies, tablecloths, water pistols, woven baskets, smoked cheese and sausage, sweets and more. In addition to all the trinkets shaped like sheep, bunnies and chicks, vendors will be dishing up regional delicacies, and plenty of hot wine. Hallelujah!QI‑5, Main Market Square, www.kiermasze.com.pl.

Emaus Fair

23.04 12:00-17:30 » RĘKAWKA FESTIVAL

Though today thought of as a Cracovian Easter tradition (celebrated the Tuesday after Easter Sunday), Rękawka actually has its roots in pagan rites of spring, particularly Dziady (Forefathers) - a pre-Christian tradition of communing with the dead, who were thought to be the guardians of fertility and reproduction. Taking place around Krakus Mound - the city’s oldest and most mysterious structure - for centuries the tradition apparently consisted of venerating the dead by rolling bread, eggs, bagels and coins down the side of the mound to the crowds below. Today it has morphed into a gathering of medieval re-enactors, who travel from across PL to establish a Slavic encampment around the Mound, which aims for authenticity in the participants’ attire, activities, shelter and food (which guests can try). There will be workshops on historical customs and craftsmanship, archery and other historical games for kids, plus historical costumes, goods and souvenirs for sale. More than just a fair, there’s actually an entire programme for the day, highlights of which include the lighting of the Holy Fire (12:00), a medieval warrior run around the mound (12:30), various short performances, plays and concerts (13:40, 14:10, 14:45, 15:00, 15:20), a proper medieval battle (16.00), and a concert of the Hungarian medieval music group Szelindek (17:30). Simultaneously on Lasota Hill you’ll find a typical tacky fun fair full of balloons, games, trinkets and a few rides - basically the same vendors and hullabaloo that were at the Emaus Fair the day before.QM‑12, Krakus Mound, above ul. Maryewskiego.

22.04 08:00-15:00 » EMAUS FAIR

Emaus, named after the biblical village (‘Emmaus’ in English), is a traditional Kraków odpust (indulgence) that takes place in Salwator every Easter Monday. Indulgence fairs accompanying church services were once customary in Poland, but Kraków’s is by far the largest and most popular, surviving without pause since at least the 16th century. Each year hundreds of families descend upon the area around the Norbertine Monastery and ul. Emaus, ul. Św. Bronisławy, and ul. Kościuszki, where merchants set shooting galleries, carousels and stalls selling gingerbread, candy, toys, souvenirs, balloons and food. QE‑8, Norbertine Monastery, ul. Kościuszki 88, www. norbertanki.w.krakow.pl.

Rękawka Festival

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Events

Photomonth | photo by: Henk Wildschut, Maatschap Stroo, Slootdorp, The Netherlands, July 2013, from the series Food

EVENTS BY DATE 26.04 - 05.05 » OFF CAMERA

Off Camera is your yearly chance to catch up on independent movies, underground cult masterpieces, and up-and-coming filmmakers. The festival usually revolves around Kino Pod Baranami (Rynek Główny 27, C-3), with a fair number of screenings taking place at Kino Kijów (Al. Krasińskiego 34, H-3) and various small cinemas.QTicket prices undecided at press time, www. offcamera.pl.

26.04 - 05.05 » OFF CAMERA - OUTDOOR CINEMA ON THE WISŁA BOULEVARDS

Part of OFF Camera film festival, this film cycle brings popular films from the last few years to the masses by projecting them on a giant screen erected on the Wisła riverbanks below Wawel Castle (across from the Sheraton). All films are free and presented with English subtitles. Check online for the exact programme.QH‑7/I‑8, Czerwieński Boulevard, Wisła Boulevards beneath Wawel, www.offcamera.pl.

26.04 - 05.05 » OFF CAMERA - OUTDOOR CINEMA ON PLAC SZCZEPAŃSKI

One of a dozen sites for OFF Camera film festival this year will be Plac Szczepański (just off the market square), where films will be screened outside for free after dark, with English subtitles. Check online for the exact programme. QI‑5, Plac Szczepański, www.offcamera.pl. 12 Kraków In Your Pocket

14.05 - 21.05 » KRAKÓW FILM MUSIC FESTIVAL (FMF)

Some of the best symphonic music today is composed for film, and it often goes without due recognition outside the world of cinematography. Luckily, since it can and does stand alone, film music concerts and festivals have grown substantially in popularity. This one in particular has become one of Poland’s most recognisable cultural exports, repeatedly attracting a sizeable audience of over 35,000 for the past few years. This year’s programme features cinematographic hits like Beauty and the Beast (2017) and Cinema Royale (2006) live in concert, along with various live performances, an open-air screening, and cycles like Dance2Cinema and Scoring4Polish Directors. QTickets 30-90zł, festival pass 140-380zł. Available at www.eventim.pl, www.fmf.fm.

22.05 19:00 » SOMETHING MUST BREAK BLANCK MASS

The concert series ‘Something Must Break’ is curated by Polish alternative artist (and founder of OFF Festival) Artur Rojek, and dedicated to bringing some of his favourite underground and lesser known international artists to a Polish audience. Benjamin John Power aka Blanck Mass is a British producer and electronic musician who navigates his way through a myriad of musical characterisations. His music has been described as post-rock, drone and electronic, but above all experimental, and almost otherworldly. His performances draw people out of their

Events comfort zones while presenting them with new sounds that are both fresh and inspiring.QH‑5, Małopolska Garden of the Arts, ul. Rajska 12, tel. (+48) 12 375 21 50, www.mos.art.pl.

23.05 20:00 » JAMIROQUAI

Jamiroquai is a popular British funk and acid-jazz group, whose leader, singer-songwriter Jay Kay has a fascination with Indian culture, hence the band’s name, which is derived from the language of the Iroquois. They are best known for the song “Canned Heat,” featured in the iconic movie Napoleon Dynamite, as well as “Virtual Insanity,” made famous by its music video. The group is known for their funky dance tunes and preference for the experience of playing live rather than studio recording, hence the audience can expect their concert to be a powerful and sweaty musical experience.QTauron Arena Kraków, ul. Stanisława Lema 7, Tickets: 149-899zł, www. goodtaste.pl.

24.05 - 23.06 » PHOTOMONTH

This annual month-long event, now in its 17th year, is one of the largest photography festivals in Europe. Breaking across the summer months of May and June, the festival takes over some of the city’s best galleries, cafes, museums, cultural centres, and even more unique locations like public parks, private flats, and post-industrial spaces, injecting dozens of individual and collective photo exhibitions. QAdmission varies by venue; most exhibits are free, www.photomonth.com.

24.05 11:00, 25.05 18:30, 26.05 18:30 » CINDERELLA

Famous composer Gioachino Rossini wrote 39 operas, becoming the most popular opera composer in history during his lifetime. His most famous works include the timeless comedies The Barber of Seville and La Cenerentola, performed with undying enthusiasm year after year. QM‑4, Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 29, Tickets 20-100zł.

26.05 - 02.06 » KRAKÓW FILM FESTIVAL (KFF)

You may have heard of this festival, which had its humble beginnings in 1961 when it was known as the Polish Short Film Festival. Over the years, it evolved from its initial aim of celebrating native film to additionally encapsulate an international repertoire of documentary, animated, and short feature films. Nowadays, the KFF is one of the select few Polish film festivals that qualify in the big leagues like the Oscars and the European Film Awards. Bringing together hundreds of homegrown and international directors, producers and all-around film lovers, this festival is an 8-day paradise for all things film. Expect to get your movie fix with screenings of over 250 films from all over the world, accompanied by various exhibitions, concerts, open-air shows and meetings with artists.QG‑6, Kijów Centrum, Al. Krasińskiego 34, tel. (+48) 12 433 00 33, Tickets 8-16zł, festival pass 100-160zł, www. krakowfilmfestival.pl. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Events 08.06 17:00, 08.06 20:00 » WODECKI TWIST FESTIVAL

Zbigniew Wodecki was a beloved Polish singer, musician, composer and actor. He is mostly known for the songs Chałupy Welcome To, Lubię wracać tam, gdzie byłem (I Like to Go Back to the Places I Visited), and Zacznij od Bacha (Begin from Bach). Wodecki Twist Festival is returning for its second edition featuring many Polish artists singing Zbigniew Wodecki’s repertoire, among them Anna Maria Jopek, Urszula Dudziak, Matt Dusk, Brodka, Aga Zaryan, Junior Robinson, Gaba Kulka, Igor Herbut, Alicja Majewska and many other well known musical artists. The festival is also going to screen as yet unseen archival footage featuring the Festival’s patron.QH‑9, ICE Kraków Congress Centre, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 17, Tickets 99-199zł, www.goodtaste.pl.

11.06 » IMPACT FESTIVAL

In its past five editions, this big-name arena rock festival has featured such top touring acts as Aerosmith, Black Sabbath, Red Hot Chili Peppers, 30 Seconds to Mars, Korn, Linkin Park, System of a Down, Rammstein and many more. The 2019 lineup will be headlined by Tool and Alice in Chains. QTauron Arena Kraków, ul. Stanisława Lema 7, Tickets from 230zł, www.livenation.pl. Like We Like It

www.photomonth.com

01.06 - 02.06 » THE GREAT DRAGON WEEKEND

Kraków’s most famous legend, the Wawel Dragon, about a dreadful beast that terrorized the city until a brave shoemaker tricked the dragon into devouring a sheep filled with sulphur and mustard seeds which made him drink copious amount of water and as a result burst into million pieces. The legend is reenacted by the actors of Groteska Theater using enormous puppets during the spectacular extravaganza on the Vistula river. The accompanying events are: the light and sound spectacle on Saturday night, kids’ parade on Sunday and a weekend long family picnic on the Vistula river boulevards.QI‑5, Main Market Square, Admission free, www.paradasmokow.pl.

01.06 22:00 » OUTDOOR DRAGON SHOW ON WISŁA RIVER

This light and sound spectacle will involve fireworks, lasers, music, water curtains, and huge floating and hovering dragons (up to 25m in length and 15m in height) duking it out on the river. The majestic creatures will be animated by Groteska Theatre actors situated on barges, and the whole affair is one of the most popular, unique and exciting events of the season; don’t miss it. It’s free, and we strongly urge you to get there early, because you’ll be competing with literally the city’s entire population to find a comfortable spot.QH‑7/I‑8, Czerwieński Boulevard, Wisła Boulevards beneath Wawel, Admission free, www.paradasmokow.pl. 14 Kraków In Your Pocket

EXHIBITIONS UNTIL 09.06 » YEARS OF DISARRAY. ART OF THE AVANT-GARDE IN CENTRAL EUROPE 1908-1928

The exhibition looks at the new tendencies that emerged in Central European art during the turbulent period following the end of the Great War. They were initiated by the artists who rejected the contributions of previous generations and began searching for new artistic expressions. It is an overview of Polish, Czech, Slovak, Hungarian, Croatian, Romanian, Austrian and German art. In addition to artworks, avant-garde art magazines, publications and posters are on display.QI‑5, International Cultural Centre, Rynek Główny 25, tel. (+48) 12 424 28 11, Admission 7/12zł, www.mck.krakow.pl.

UNTIL 15.08 » CHUCK FISHMAN: “REGENERATION. JEWISH LIFE IN POLAND”

This photo exhibition contains work that first appeared in a book titled ‘Polish Jews: The Final Chapter’. The photos in the book were all taken in the aftermath of the Holocaust and post-war Jewish emigration when Chuck Fishman visited Poland for the first time in 1975. These photos depict the reality of life for the remaining Jews in the last decade of the Polish People’s Republic. Fishman continued to travel back to Poland and document the changes that the Jewish community experienced in the 1980s up until the 2010s. He took photographs in Kraków, Wrocław and Warsaw, but also in Lublin, Łódź and Przemyśl, where only a handful of individuals still practiced Judaism. The photos provide the story of over four decades of Jewish life in contemporary

Events Poland. QL‑8, Galicia Jewish Museum, ul. Dajwór 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68 42, Admission 16/11zł, family ticket 30zł, children under 7 free. Guided tours available (in English, French and German) for individual and groups if arranged in advance., www.galiciajewishmuseum.org. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

UNTIL 15.05 » WYSPIAŃSKI. UNKNOWN

Wyspiański ranks among other turn of the century artists like Klimt and Gaudi in terms of influence, vision and cultural relevance, especially locally. In an impressive feat, the National Museum in Kraków has gathered the largest and most valuable collection of the artist’s works - approximately 900 pieces. As part of the largest display of the artist’s works over the past 50 years in Poland, 500 of these works will be available for viewing - drawings, portraits, and landscapes, as well as scenographic, typographic, and ornamental designs (some of which were made for high-profile clients in Krakow). Of course, there will be plenty of pastels - a medium he mastered and has become best known for.QG‑6, National Museum, Main Building, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, Admission 15/20zł, www.mnk.pl.

14.05 - 08.09 » BOUND PEGASUS

Józef Mehoffer was a Polish painter, graphic artist, printmaker, designer of stained glass windows, textiles, theatre sets, posters, furniture, and one of the leading artists of the Young Poland movement who combined modern artistic trends with the stateless yet proud Polish identity. He was one of the most revered Polish artists of his time, and extraordinarily sensitive to the decorative value of paintings. The artist created an original formula of decoration that grew out of the Art Nouveau style. This exhibition presents one of Mehoffer’s paintings entitled Pegasus Among Flowers. The mythological winged horse has been depicted countless times in countless ways by many other artists during the 19th century and early 20th centuries. The Pegasus motif shows up in more than one of Józef Mehoffer’s paintings, often in the portraits featuring his wife, Jadwiga Mehofferowa.QG‑6, National Museum, Main Building, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, Tickets 15/20zł, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

Leonard Bernstein

KANDYD director, costume & lighting designer

Michał Znaniecki music director

Sławomir Chrzanowski set designer

Luigi Scoglio

7,8,9,11 14,15,16 June

UNTIL 07.07 » THINK OF AN ALIAS FOR YOURSELF…

In connection with the 100th anniversary of Poland regaining its independence, a temporary exhibit at Oskar Schindler’s Factory Museum will be held. The exhibition tells the story of a portion of the young generation brought up during the Nazi occupation. One of its aims is to present the personal experience of the people involved in the underground resistance throughout World War II. The exhibition features written memoirs by seven young Polish people, in 1939 aged between 13 and 16, who lived in Kraków and served as soldiers of the Home Army during World War II. QN‑9, Schindler’s Factory, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 17, Admission 4-7zł, family ticket 14zł, www.mhk.pl.

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Events UNTIL 13.10 » WANDERING TOWNSFOLK. NOWA HUTA CITIZEN.

Nowa Huta was created as a response of the Socialist government which had encountered substantial resistance to their new regime from middle-class residents of Kraków. To “correct the class imbalance”, the authorities commenced building a satellite industrial city to attract people from lower socioeconomic backgrounds to the region, mainly peasants and the working-class. Hence the ideal city for Socialist propaganda was created, populated primarily by industrial workers and often by the same people who were displaced from the surrounding villages. The exhibition focuses on the story of contemporary residents of Nowa Huta, particularly people living in the 1990s when Poland was undergoing a profound transformation of its social, economic and political structures while transitioning from a centralized to a market economy. QS‑3, Nowa Huta Museum, Os. Centrum E 1, tel. (+48) 12 446 78 21, Tickets 8/11zł, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 02.06 » KRAKOW 1900

Focussing on the atmosphere of Kraków around 1900, this exhibition shows the life of the city’s inhabitants, their work, views, and how art reflected the European trends of the time. Made up of paintings and sculptures from the National Museum of Kraków, it also includes posters, graphics, ceramics, clothing, textiles, everyday objects, and archival photographs.QI‑5, Szołayski House, Pl. Szczepański 9, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 50, Tickets 20/15zł, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 26.05 » SAND HAS COVERED THE TRACES...

A collection of numismatic coins and archaeological remains collected by the soldiers of the Polish II Corps and priest Stefana Pietruszka-Jabłonowski which were kept in the Polish Museum in Jerusalem until 2016. They have since been transferred to the National Museum in Krakow where they will be put on display for visitors. The collection includes over 12,000 coins with some dating back to the Middle Ages, the Ottoman Empire, and also includes modern examples. Archaeological artefacts will also include weights, oil lamps, glass beads, semi-precious metals, and clay pieces.QH‑6, Józef Czapski Pavilion, ul. Piłsudskiego 12, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 40, Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sunday free for permanent exhibitions., www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 30.06 » POWER OF NATURE. HENRY MOORE IN POLAND

“All art should have a certain mystery and should make demands on the spectator”- Henry Moore. The exhibition in the National Museum of Kraków showcases works spanning a period of fifty years of Henry Moore’s artistic career. He was the foremost British sculptor of the 20th century, best known for his semi abstract bronze 16 Kraków In Your Pocket

Events sculptures located around the world as public works of art. Monumental, abstract and figural, his cast bronzes imply human and animal form through smoothly twisting organic curves and rectilinear joints. The “exhibition-walk” convention will allow visitors to experience Moore’s work in the urban space as well as in other branches of the Museum scattered across the city. QG‑6, National Museum, Main Building, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, Admission free, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

05.04 - 28.04 » TERESA WALLI - JONIAK

Teresa Walli-Joniak is a Polish painter whose artistic oeuvre originated in the avant-garde, transitioning later into postimpressionism, more specifically Cracovian colorism. The artist combines beauty and aesthetics with an emotional approach. Her landscapes often include natural and man made (architecture) elements. What’s more important, she includes people in her landscapes. Teresa Walli-Joniak draws her inspiration form her travels to Greece, Italy, France and Spain, following in Van Gogh’s and Salvador Dali’s footsteps. The artist’s current exhibition has a retrospective character. QI‑5, Palace of the Arts, Pl. Szczepański 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 66 16, Admission 10/5zł., www.palac-sztuki.krakow. pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

06.04 - 08.09 » WAJDA

Andrzej Wajda is an Academy Award-wining director. He is the most prominent visionary filmmaker in Poland known for The Promised Land, Man of Marble and Man of Iron (the film takes place in two time periods, the first film showing the episodes of Stalinism in Poland, while the second is devoted to Poland’s burgeoning Solidarity movement), Katyń, and many other films. The exposition will be based on magnificent artefacts left behind by Wajda the filmmaker, great producer, master of dramaturgy, and creator of unforgettable images. The exhibition presents screenplays, sketches, drawings, notes made during the creative process, props and costumes, scenery designs, and documentation. QG‑6, National Museum, Main Building, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, Tickets 15/20zł, www.mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

13.04 - 12.01 » BEWARE! THE ENEMY IS EAVESDROPPING

This exhibition presents a collection of historical devices used by armies, intelligence services and opposition forces to transfer secret information - telegraphs, telephones and radios. There are eleven interactive stands on display enabling audience members to take on the role of a spy. The exhibition also makes a reference to the current use of cryptography on the internet and in telecommunications technology. The exhibition is accompanied by a guided tour, various family activities and games. QK‑9, Engineering Museum, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 15, tel. (+48) 12 428 66 44, Admission 10/15zł, www.mimk.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Tue 09:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 20:00. Closed Mon. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Events 06/04/2019

08/09/2019

26.04 - 16.06 » POMPIER, MUCK, SOCROCOCO

Anna Orłowska is a photographer and multimedia artist. Her current collection of photographs is part of the MOCAK project to exhibit the work of artists creating works related to Kraków. Anna Orłowska photographed ‘Pałac Dożów’ (the product of socialist realism) in Nowa Huta juxtaposed with the residence of Jan Matejko (the most important Polish ‘pompier’). The exhibition is a commentary on the fate of old Polish palaces and noble residences which were often ruined and plundered, then converted into ‘useful spaces’. Nevertheless, the socialist fascination with the grandiosity of old palaces remained, hence the attempt to create similar buildings in the new PRL.QN‑9, Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK), ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 01, Admission 7/14zł, www.mocak.pl.

26.04 - 29.09 » NATURE IN ART

Exhibition at the National Museum in Krakow The Main Building, al.3 Maja 1

What’s On in Kraków? It’s all In Your Pocket

At the exhibition Nature in Art contemporary works of more than 70 artists are on display, in techniques ranging from painting and photography to video and installation. In an era of sustained ecological disaster, it seems appropriate for artists to return to the tradition of the pictorial depiction of animals, plants and nature. After all, pretty soon all we may have left are these images if mankind continues on its current course of destruction. The exhibition is divided into five parts: beauty, ecology, confrontation, matter and symbol. The exhibition attempts to take a closer look at the contemporary attitudes of humankind towards nature in works by visual artists. Perhaps this art will help create and enact ecological thinking, inspire more respect for nature and stimulate necessary dialogue on these issues? Let’s hope.QN‑9, Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK), ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 01, Tickets 7/14zł, www.mocak.pl.

26.04 - 16.06 » LEBENSMITTEL

Free app download: iyp.me/app facebook2 /krakowinyourpocket brand12 @polandinyourpocket wordpress iyp.me/polandblog 18 Kraków In Your Pocket

Michael Schmidt was a German photographer, whose last work, Lebensmittel, is an epic exploration of the global food industry. Lebensmittel, which roughly translates as ‘foodstuff’ took seven years to complete, with Schmidt travelling the globe to photograph factory farms, industrial slaughterhouses and supermarkets as well as single items like a mango wrapped in plastic. His work borders on a documentary, and the artist is guided here by his own curiosity and his ongoing investigation of the limits of photography – as well as by political and social concerns. The food industry in Lebensmittel is as mysterious as it is ruthlessly efficient, as intriguing as it is exploitative. It is not a straightforward critique of the global industrialisation of food production, rather the artist’s own visual commentary. QN‑9, Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK), ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 01, Admission 7/14zł, www.mocak.pl.

What’s going on? facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

Events 26.04 - 18.08 » VIOLENCE AND MEMORY

The principal goal of the Institut für Deutsche Ostarbeit (IDO, Institute of German Work in the East) which replaced in 1940 the Jagiellonian University, was the separation of ethnic groups and segregation of the conquered population. Series of analysis were conducted and documented. The artist, Dorota Nieznalska, created the exhibition which displays mainly the photographs of highlanders from the Podhale region and the Lemko ethnic group. The work is a beautiful example of historical empathy. It evokes the memory of those who have fallen into oblivion and warns against creating hierarchic rankings of ethnicity. It also bestows the status of sacrificial victims to people subjected to such segregation.QN‑9, Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK), ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 01, Admission 7/14zł, www.mocak.pl.

26.04 - 29.09 » IN BLACK AND WHITE: 200 YEARS OF JAN MATEJKO ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS

Henri Matisse once said: “Drawing is like making an expressive gesture with the advantage of permanence.” This exhibition is a celebration of the art of drawing and simultaneously the 200th anniversary of the oldest Fine Arts Institution in Poland, the Jan Matejko Academy, which has produced so many incredible artists during the past two centuries. There will be close to 170 drawings on display. The choice of this particular art technique is not accidental - according to John Ruskin “Drawing is of more real importance to the human race that of writing”. Drawing instruction is designed to hone perception and exact observation, which in turn leads to the exact presentation. It is the starting point for painters, sculptors, graphic artists, designers and architects. Among the displayed drawings will be works of contemporary artists as well as those of the old masters.QG‑6, National Museum, Main Building, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, Tickets 15/20zł, www. mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 31.12 » NUCLEAR THREAT: SHELTERS OF NOWA HUTA

Nowa Huta - a model socialist town, or rather the utopian dream of one. This neighbourhood outside of Kraków was a flagship socialist realism building development from the times when comrade Stalin kept watch from the Kremlin. The threat of nuclear war during the Cold War era suggested that all the buildings should be designed with air raid shelters. Do they really exist, or are they just another Polish myth? Many stories have been told about these mysterious corridors leading to who knows where, and of people disappearing in them. How much truth there is to these tales one can find out during this underground exhibit at the Nowa Huta Museum. Dare to take a stroll down the mythical underground corridors? Perhaps you will discover a part of Polish history not visible from the surface.QS‑3, Nowa Huta Museum, Os. Centrum E 1, tel. (+48) 12 446 78 21, Tickets 8/11zł, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

WEEKLY CONCERTS Pro-Arts organises a diverse variety of intimate concerts performed by distinguished local musicians in unique venues. Tickets available online, or at the venue before the show. cracowconcerts.com

ROYAL CHAMBER ORCHESTRA » EVERY DAY; 18:00

This ensemble of grads from the Kraków Academy of Music performs outstanding classical music recitals. QI‑6, St. Adalbert’s Church, Rynek Główny; 65zł.

CHOPIN CONCERTS » EVERY DAY; 19:30

Enjoy the music of Poland’s greatest composer; price includes a glass of wine.QChopin Gallery, ul. Sławkowska 14; 60zł.

FOLK SHOW » EVERY WED AND SAT; 19:00

A traditional three-course meal with folk music and dancing in Kraków’s famous secessionist cafe.QJ‑5, Jama Michalika, ul. Floriańska 45; 119zł.

KLEZMER CONCERTS » EVERY DAY; 16:30

Traditional klezmer recitals performed by a local trio on clarinet, accordion and double bass. QKlezmer Music Venue, ul. Sławkowska 14; 55zł. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Transport

Antique trams at the Engineering Museum (p.62).

Kraków is well-connected regarding transport, with a new airport just 17km west of the centre, a recently modernised joint train and bus station on the edge of the Old Town, and some of Poland’s better roads connecting it to Katowice, Wrocław and Berlin to the west, Tarnów and Rzeszów to the east, Kielce and Warsaw to the north and Budapest to the south. The city also boasts a comprehensive and easyto-use public transportation system, which some visitors won’t even find necessary thanks to most attractions being within easy walking distance of one another (not to mention walking being one of the best ways to enjoy Kraków). In this section you’ll find all you need to know about getting in and out of Kraków, as well as around the city with general ease.

BY PLANE KRAKÓW AIRPORT Located 17km west of the city centre, Kraków Airport was the subject of a one billion PLN investment, which resulted in the opening of a brand-new passenger terminal in September 2015. Boasting the full services and amenities of a modern airport, the new terminal is connected directly to parking and train transport to the centre, and inside you’ll find ATMs and currency exchange, tourist information, car rental desks, restaurants and duty-free shops, a chapel, business lounges and VIP services. Despite increases in volume, getting through check-in and security at Kraków Airport is still relatively speedy compared to most airports. Qul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 295 58 00, www.krakowairport.pl. 20 Kraków In Your Pocket

AIRPORT TRAINS

Typically the best way to get between the airport and Kraków’s Old Town is by train via the new ‘Kraków Lotnisko/Airport’ station, which is connected directly to the terminal via a skywalk; however, current work on the rails is resulting in less frequent train service for the foreseeable future. At the moment trains are running once an hour between 04:00 and 24:00 (journey time 21min); a direct bus also makes the journey between ‘Kraków Lotnisko/Airport’ and ‘Kraków Główny’ (the main station in the Old Town) once an hour between train departures (journey time 35min). A ticket for either the train or direct bus between the airport and Kraków Główny costs 9zł, and can be bought directly on-board. Check malopolskiekoleje.pl for exact departure times. Note that Kraków Główny is actually the midway point in the train route between the airport and Wieliczka, making several other stops along the way. Those staying in Podgórze may in fact find the ‘Kraków Zabłocie’ stop more convenient for getting to their hotel.

AIRPORT BUSES

Also be aware that not all buses departing from the airport back to Kraków are direct. Bus 208 makes the same journey once an hour, while bus 252 runs between the airport and ‘Os. Podwawelskie’ every 30mins with central stops at Cracovia Błonia (G-6), Jubilat (G-7) and Centrum Kongresowe ICE (H-9). Night bus 902 also makes the trip from the airport to the main station with hourly departures beginning at 23:25. These regular commuter buses all make stops, adding time to the trip, and require a 4/2zł single

Arrival & Transport journey fare, which can be bought from the ticket machine at the bus-stop or on-board the bus. All leave from directly outside the terminal and exact bus times and routes can be checked online at krakow.jakdojade.pl.

AIRPORT TAXIS

The airport has its own ‘Krakow Airport Taxi’ service with vehicles waiting just outside the terminal entrance, which offer a fixed price of 89zł to the city centre. This price is basically criminal, since fares for the 25-35 journey to the Old Town can be had for 35-70zł (on weekday afternoons you should pay less than 50zł) simply by making a call; we’ve found iCar (+48 12 653 55 55) has the best rates. Outside taxi services pick up from the ‘Kiss & Fly’ lane, which can be a bit jammed up and hectic at peak times; it’s best to position yourself for pick-up at the beginning of the lane if possible. Another option is Uber, which has the advantages of very low fares and its app makes finding your ride easier. TALIXO This global transport service (operating in over 750 cities) connects you to the best local taxi and limousine fleets. Their simple online reservation system allows you to get a ride that matches your needs, whether it’s a child seat or just a super fly ride. Specialising in airport transfers, their system can track your flight, ensuring that your English-speaking driver will be there (looking snappy with a personalised sign), whether you land ahead of or behind schedule.Qtel. (+48) 30 346 49 73 60, www.talixo.com/iyp-cracow.

BY BUS KRAKÓW MAIN BUS STATION Although somewhat integrated into the Kraków Glówny underground transportation centre, Kraków retains its own semi-separate bus station, located directly east of Galeria Krakowska and the train platforms. Recently ‘modernised’ (codeword for ‘filled with commercial shopping space’), the station comprises two floors with access to two levels of bus departure gates. Inside the top floor of the bus station proper you’ll find ticket windows (open 07:00 - 19:45; tickets can also be bought downstairs at the -1 level 05:00 - 21:30), food vendors, currency exchange (kantor), ATM (bankomat) and information point (open 07:00 - 20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00). When the main hall is closed between 22:00 and 06:00, a separate night time waiting room is available with access to the toilets and left luggage lockers. Those arriving to Kraków by bus will find taxis nearby on both the upper and lower floors, as well connections to public transport nearby. Located within easy walking distance, unfortunately the most direct way to the market square is underground through the Kraków Główny train and transit centre; follow the clearly marked signs for ‘Stare Miasto’ (Old Town) or ‘ul. Lubicz.’ To plan bus departures from Kraków, use the helpful website e-podroznik.pl.QL‑4, ul. Bosacka 18, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 40, www.mda.malopolska.pl. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Transport BY TRAIN KRAKÓW GŁÓWNY TRAIN STATION Following a 130 million PLN modernisation project, Kraków Główny - the catch-all title of the city’s vast underground transportation centre - offers easy transfers between train, bus and tram transport. Of course the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall is also cleverly integrated, and along with modern conveniences like waiting rooms, escalators and elevators, you’ll also find plenty of additional consumer opportunities, including cafes, supermarkets, souvenir shops, bookstores and more. With tunnels, stairs and signs leading off in every direction, it’s all quite confusing (erm, we mean, modern!), but fear not - IYP will help you sort it out.

If you opt to walk - and we encourage you to do so, wandering into the Old Town is dreamy - you’ll find that getting out of the station can be a bit of a challenge. There are at least four exits and it’s wise to choose the correct one, based on where you want to go. Following signs to ‘ul. Pawia’ will lead you straight into the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall (in the words of Admiral Ackbar: “It’s a traaap!”). Signs to ‘Dworzec Autobusowy’ or ‘ul. Bosacka’ will put you on the east side of the transport complex (further from the market square). If you want to head straight to the market square (do it, it’s only 10mins away!) it is easier to take the stairs down from the platforms to the old ‘Magda’ tunnel, rather than the escalators into the new complex. Once in the tunnel there is a staircase just after platform 1 that will lead you to daylight. If you end up in the new main complex, follow the clearly marked signs to ‘Stare Miasto’ (Old Town) or ‘ul. Lubicz’ to escape. Once outside, cross the plaza in front of the old station building (Galeria Krakowska is on your right) to the Andels Hotel and follow the crowds through the underpass (K-4); bear right and enjoy a stroll through the Planty Park for two blocks before making a left on Floriańska Street at the Barbican (J-4) and you’re on the ‘Path of Kings’ to the market square. You’ve arrived.

DEPARTING BY TRAIN

This Pendolino train can get you to Warsaw in 2.5hrs.

Photo by Jakub Hałun

SERVICES

Pretty much everything the modern traveller could ever expect or desire can be found somewhere inside the spiffy, sprawling, fully handicap-accessible facilities of the Kraków train station. 24 ticket windows (some open 24-hours), plus automated ticket machines (in English) throughout the station limit the possibility of long queues. The station is wifi-enabled, there are several waiting areas, a tourist information office (open 07:00 - 22:00), currency exchange, luggage lockers, showers, and dozens of food and refreshment opportunities, not to mention the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall.

ARRIVING BY TRAIN

Conveniently situated at the north-east edge of the Old Town, Kraków Główny is within easy walking distance of most Old Town accommodation, making trams and taxis largely unnecessary. If you’re travelling further than you’d care to walk, use krakow.jakdojade.pl to navigate yourself there via public transport; you can catch trams to Kazimierz (number 19 in the direction of ‘Borek Fałęcki’ stops at ‘Miodowa’ (K-8) in Kazimierz, for example) and other parts of the city by following signs underground to ‘Dworzec Główny Tunel.’ Further tram stops are located just outside the station exits. To skip that trouble however, when you disembark your train immediately head up rather than down from the platform and you’ll find yourself on the top floor parking garage where taxis are waiting to whisk you away. 22 Kraków In Your Pocket

With the train station completely underground, there’s no clear-cut main entrance, but rather several ways to enter. Basically it is directly underneath the train platforms and bus station (L-4), so use those as your geographical targets and you’ll find your way; you can also cut through Galeria Krakowska to get there. Easily accessed by public transport, there are tram stops all around the train station: ‘Teatr Słowackiego’ (just south of the station, K-5), ‘Dworzec Główny Zachód’ (just west of the Galeria Krakowska and the station, K-4), ‘Dworzec Główny Tunel’ (basically inside the station, K-4, follow signs to the platforms) and ‘Dworzec Główny Wschód’ (just east of the bus station and main entrance to the station, L-3). All of these are perfectly good options, it just depends where you are coming from. Again, your best bet is to have krakow. jakdojade.pl plot your course to the train station from wherever you happen to be in town. Once you’re there, station departures (odjazdy) are listed on yellow timetables, arrivals (przyjazdy) are the white ones; check the timetables online at the Polish railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has limited but effective English language functionality, or try the journey-planning website e-podroznik.pl. If you want a seat on a particular train it is best to book ahead. If in a rush, tickets can also be bought on board the train from the conductor, but expect a surcharge.QK‑3, ul. Pawia 5A, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.rozklad.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that, due to system maintenance, seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00.

Arrival & Transport CAR RENTAL

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

All most travellers need to rent a car in PL is 18 years of age, a credit card (not debit), and a valid foreign driver’s licence. Note, however, that those from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic (United States, China, Australia...) cannot legally drive on their home licences; an International Driver’s License is technically required. Though some companies will still rent you a car, you assume full liability for any damages if you get behind the wheel; you also run the risk of getting a citation from the police for driving without a valid license. If you’re looking to leave the country, be aware that you can’t cross the Polish borders into Ukraine, Belarus or Lithuania in a rental car.

AVIS Internationally trusted service offering a range of vehicles from two-door sedans to luxury mini-vans. Located near the train station, with a pick-up/drop-off point at the car park above the station. Also at the airport.QL‑4, ul. Lubicz 23, tel. (+48) 22 113 91 52, www.avis.pl. Open 08:0018:00; Sat 08:00-16:00; closed Sun. EUROPCAR Offering both short and long term rental options with 9 different categories of car available for your individual needs. Excellence in service with benefits tailored to your specific requirements. Europcar is present at all Polish airports including Kraków-Balice, tel. (+48) 12 257 79 00.QL‑9, ul. Nadwiślańska 6 (Qubus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374 56 96, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun.

TAXIS Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, taxi service in Kraków is very reliable and affordable. Calling ahead will get you a better fare, but if you hail one from the street just make sure it is clearly marked with a company name and phone number displayed. A standard fare is about 7zł, plus about 2.30zł per kilometre; at night and on Sundays, however, fares increase by up to 50%. Most Poles do not consider taxis a service that necessitates a tip, so if you’re in the company of Poles, the driver likely won’t expect one. Double standards being what they are, however, it’s anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you. Uber is also available in Poland, and those familiar with the service will find Kraków well-covered, however there are some drawbacks. Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for cheaper rates. BARBAKAN TAXI Qtel. (+48) 12 196 61, www.taxi.barbakan.krakow.pl.

Leonid Andronov, AdobeStock

While Krakow has no underground metro system it does have an integrated bus and tram system which runs from 05:00 - 23:00, with night trams and buses continuing less frequently after that. Check official timetables and network maps online at mpk.krakow.pl (which has English functionality), or figure out how to get from point A to point B via krakow.jakdojade.pl - an invaluable navigation site and transport app. Also note that while frequent changes in service prevent us from printing a tram map in our guides, tram stops are marked on all Krakow IYP maps. Transport tickets can be purchased from the handy ticket machines (also in English) at major stops, on-board most trams and buses, or from the driver immediately on boarding if there is no ticket machine. Note that the ticket machines at stops take bills and bank cards, but most of those on board trams and buses take coins only, so have some change handy. Tickets are the same for trams and buses, and some are timed, allowing you to change between tram or bus lines within the alloted time. Note that tickets and prices are rumoured to change in April or May. The current cheapest fare is good for 20mins at a cost of 2.80zł. By our estimation, this is about the time it should take to go 5-8 stops, depending on traffic, and ideal for travel around the Old Town, Kazimierz and Podgórze. If you’re going outside the centre (Nowa Huta, for example), we recommend you purchase a 40min ticket for 3.80zł. Note that those over the age of 70 ride for free, as do kids until age 4 (ages must be proven with ID). ISIC and student cards are valid for ticket discounts, but you must carry your ID and be under 26. Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket immediately on boarding the tram or bus in the small machines on-board, even if you bought your ticket onboard. Beware that inspectors regularly travel on the lines handing out costly fines to those without valid tickets, and are notoriously unsympathetic towards tourists. Seriously, riding without a ticket can not only ruin your day, but your entire trip to Kraków.

ICARQtel. (+48) 12 653 55 55, www.icartaxi.eu. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Ah, look at Wawel Cathedral (p.38) being all bashful behind the blooms of spring. | © Przemek Czaja; madeinkrakow.pl

Kraków Sightseeing Not only the pride of Poland, but also Europe’s first World Heritage Site, go out and discover the magic of Kraków - district by district.

Sightseeing Kraków has always been, in many respects, a charmed city. With a history that dates back to the 4th century settlement of Wawel Hill, ever since the pesky Mongols stopped bullying the area back in the 13th century, Kraków has fortuitously avoided destruction. The most important Polish city to escape World War II without looking like a trampled Lego set, even the Soviets failed to leave their mark on Kraków’s enchanted city centre during 45 years of supervision, erecting the communist Utopia of Nowa Huta in the outlying suburbs. As a result, Kraków is today one of Europe’s most beautiful architectural showpieces – a claim validated by the inclusion of its Old Town and Kazimierz districts on the first-ever UNESCO World Heritage List in 1978, along with the nearby Wieliczka Salt Mine and only ten other places in the world. A city of majestic monuments, cobbled lanes, timeless courtyards and priceless cultural treasures, Kraków’s historic centre is the pride of Poland.

KRAKÓW’S DISTRICTS Kraków’s centre can be divided into two main sections – the Old Town (p.27) and Kazimierz (the former Jewish Quarter, p.41), with Wawel (the former Royal Castle, p.36) towering between them. These three areas are within easy walking distance of each other and requisite for anyone visiting the city. Though you could spend days just wandering the cobbled streets and courtyards of the UNESCO area, don’t fail to also take a trip across the river into Podgórze (p.49) - arguably the city’s most evocative district; the Jewish heritage trail also naturally leads you from Kazimierz into Podgórze, where the worst horror of Kraków’s Nazi occupation played out. If time affords, intrepid tourists looking for something completely alternative to European splendour can explore Nowa Huta (p.57), one of only two planned socialist realism cities ever built. Designed to be the antithesis of everything Kraków’s Old Town represents, both culturally and aesthetically, the commie comforts of Nowa Huta are only a tram ride away. Those staying in the area for a week or more should also strongly consider day trips to Wieliczka Salt Mine (p.72), the Auschwitz-Birkenau death camp (p.74) and Małopolska’s charming second city, Tarnów (p.76).

USING OUR GUIDE Kraków In Your Pocket is designed to provide you with all the tools and info necessary to explore the city on your own. Throughout our Sightseeing section you’ll find highly detailed maps to help you navigate the city’s most interesting neighbourhoods (and save your cellular data); use the map coordinates at the end of each venue where applicable. All the important sites in each area are described in detail and meticulously updated every two months; use the indexes in the back of the guide to quickly find venues you’re specifically searching for, or simply follow our suggestions. Enjoy exploring Kraków!

KRAKÓW IYP ONLINE Due to space restrictions in our print guide, we’re actually only able to publish a fraction of all the excellent content we have on Kraków and the surrounding region, not to mention all of Poland. Visit our website - poland.inyourpocket.com - to see just how much of the country we cover, and to download guides to Warsaw, Gdańsk, Wrocław, Katowice and other cities you might be travelling to. Below is a small sampling of great Kraków-related content we didn’t have room for this issue, with links to where you’ll find it online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket! KRAKOW BEACHES & SWIMMING When the thermostat cracks, you basically have 3 options: get into the nearest ice cream line, beer cellar or museum, or strip down and go get wet. This latter impulse can lead you to some of the city’s most interesting outdoor destinations, beaches and swimming holes, which we submit here: iyp.me/krakowswimming LITERARY KRAKÓW In October 2013 Kraków was designated a ‘UNESCO City of Literature.’ The city’s resume includes the first bookstore in Europe, and Nobel Prize winners for Literature - Czesław Miłosz and Wisława Szymborska. Our guide to Literary Kraków introduces you to the city’s most famous authors and best literary locales: iyp.me/literarykrakow TADEUSZ KOŚCIUSZKO 2017 is being celebrated in PL as the ‘Year of Kościuszko,’ in commemoration of the 200th anniversary of the patriot’s death. You’ve seen his name and likeness all around town, but who was this handsome, name-challenged gentleman? Only the greatest Pole ever. Read our scholarly feature to learn all about this hero of America and Poland: iyp.me/kosciuszko POPE JOHN PAUL II Born in nearby Wadowice, Karol Wojtyła studied at Jagiellonian and served as Kraków’s Bishop before becoming Pope in 1978. Aside from the Vatican, no city is more associated with the late pope than Kraków, which remained his spiritual home throughout his life. IYP takes a look at the life, legacy and local sites associated with ‘Poland’s Pope:’ iyp.me/thepope krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Old Town Walking Tour Full of majestic architectural monuments, priceless cultural treasures and cobbled pedestrian thoroughfares, Kraków’s Old Town is the pride of Poland, one of Central Europe’s most beautiful architectural showpieces, and one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations. Characterised by its unique upside-down teardrop shape - dictated by the city’s former medieval defensive walls extending north like two encircling arms from Wawel Castle - today the Old Town is surrounded by the charming belt of public green space known as the ‘Planty’ (p.28). Standing in place of the city’s medieval moat, the Planty draws a clear line around the original medieval centre of Kraków, within which you’ll find many of the city’s most spectacular sights.

WALKING TOUR IYP’s Old Town Walking Tour leads you from near the main entrance of the city in the north - the historic Floriańska Gate (J-4) - to Wawel Royal Castle in the south (I-7), via the market square and most important and interesting points in the Old Town. Known as the ‘Royal Route,’ this was essentially the historical coronation path of Poland’s kings from the 14th century to the very end of the 16th century when Kraków served as the royal capital. The prescribed route (shown in blue on the map) includes a couple key detours, of course, and covers about 2km. If you’re only interested in the exercise, it could take as little as 30mins, but we reckon for most an exploration of Kraków’s Old Town will take several hours ‘if done correctly’ - that is, with a couple short culture, food and coffee/beer breaks. If you have only one day in Kraków, this is how you should spend it. Make sure you’ve got a full charge on your camera, some comfy shoes and off you go. 0 GRUNWALD MONUMENT

The Battle of Grunwald, fought between the joint armies of Poland and Lithuania against the German-Prussian Teutonic Knights on July 15, 1410, was one of the largest battles of Medieval Europe, and is considered one of the most important military victories in Polish history. This weighty monument was unveiled in front of an estimated 160,000 people on the 500th anniversary of the event in 1910. Unsurprisingly, Antoni Wiwulski’s original masterpiece was destroyed by the occupying Nazis during WWII and the copy you see today was made from his original sketches and models in 1976. At the top on his horse is Polish King Władysław Jagiełło, his sword pointing downwards in his right hand. At the front is his cousin the Lithuanian prince Vytautas (Vitold), who is flanked on either side by victorious soldiers from the joint army. The dead man at the front is Urlich von Jungingen, the Teutonic Order’s Grand Master, who lost his life during the battle.QJ‑4, Pl. Matejki.

Barbican

1 BARBICAN Originally there were eight entrance gates into the city, but let’s begin just outside the most grand of those entrances, and unfortunately the only to have survived to modern times - the Floriańska Gate, fortified by the impressive Barbican fortress. Standing in the small square between the Barbican and the tower of Floriańska Gate you are actually standing on what once was the drawbridge (when lowered) over the city’s moat. Built at the end of the 15th century, the Barbican was the showpiece of the city’s medieval defences, as it remains today. With walls 3 metres thick this masterpiece of medieval military engineering proved impenetrable and is today one of the only surviving structures of its kind in Europe. Built in Gothic style, the Kraków Barbican is topped by seven turrets and includes 130 defensive slots used by archers and riflemen. Today an outdoor museum, step inside to run the ramparts and learn more about the history of Kraków’s defensive walls.QJ‑4, ul. Basztowa, tel. (+48) 12 422 98 77, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 10:3018:00. Closed 2nd Mon of each month. Admission 9/7zł. 2 JAN MATEJKO MONUMENT Located just beside the Barbican and unveiled as recently as 2013, this monument pays homage to one of Poland’s greatest painters, and one of Kraków’s most beloved sons. Famous for his epic and outsized historical paintings - which have been reproduced enough to become imprinted in the national psyche - Matejko’s work can be seen throughout Kraków from Collegium Novum (p.33) to the Cloth Hall’s 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.60), to the monumental polychrome he did inside St. Mary’s Basilica (p.29) in his final years. Educated in Kraków and later principal of the Academy of Fine Arts, Matejko also trained an entire generation of great Polish painters, including Wyspiański, Mehoffer and Malczewski. This impressive monument is the work of Jan Tutaj, and located along what was Matejko’s daily walk from his home to his job at the Arts Academy (which today bears his name) on nearby Plac Matejki (also named in his honour). To learn more about Matejko, visit his home and museum at ul. Floriańska 41 (p.63).QJ‑4, ul. Basztowa.

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Old Town Walking Tour THE PLANTY Once the site of the city’s 13th century defensive fortifications, the walls were razed, the towers demolished and Kraków’s moat was filled during Austrian occupation in the first half of the 19th century. While today it’s easy to regret the shortsighted destruction of Kraków’s medieval city walls (except for the Barbican and Florianska Gate, which survived), we can thank the Austrians for replacing them with this lovely greenery encircling the Old Town. Known as the ‘lungs of the city’, the Planty is one of Kraków’s most unique and charming features 3km of public park filled with trees, flowers, benches and monuments. Strolling its circuit would take over 1hr, but represents a great way to see the city. Also a popular place for couples, if you haven’t smooched someone on a park bench in the Planty before leaving town, well then you haven’t finished your itinerary. QC‑4/5.

SŁOWACKI THEATRE

4 SŁOWACKI THEATRE

Regarded today as an architectural masterpiece, the Słowacki Theatre came under fierce criticism when construction began, due to the demolition of the medieval Church of the Holy Ghost to make room for it. Completed in 1893, Jan Zawiejski actually modeled his Baroque design on the Paris Opera and the structure is distinguished for its elaborate facade decorated with allegorical figures. The foyer and marble staircase are supreme examples of finde-siecle thinking, and the lavish stage curtain featuring paintings by Henryk Siemiradzki is worth seeing. Typically open during productions only, tours can be arranged by phone (150zł for up to 50 people).QJ‑5, Pl. Św. Ducha 1, tel. (+48) 12 424 45 25, www.slowacki.krakow.pl. 28 Kraków In Your Pocket

3 FLORIAŃSKA GATE Across from the Barbican - to which it was once connected via drawbridge over the city moat - stands the iconic Floriańska Gate. Erected in 1307, this Gothic gateway tower and its adjacent towers (plus the Barbican) are almost all that remains of the medieval defences which once circled the Old Town. As the most important of the city’s eight medieval gates, St. Florian’s Gate was spared demolition during 19th century Austrian occupation thanks to lastminute local efforts. As in ancient times - when the gate marked the entry point for royal processions en route to Wawel Castle - today Floriańska Gate remains the primary entry point to Kraków’s Old Town, leading down ulica Floriańska to the market square.

Standing 34.5 metres tall, including the Baroque ‘helmet’ added in the 17th century, Floriańska Gate features a stone eagle on the side facing the Barbican, and a 19th century bas-relief of Saint Florian on the side facing Floriańska Street. There is an altar in the actual passageway, and a hidden chapel in the tower itself (accessed via the City Defensive Walls museum). Street musicians commonly play beneath the tower, and local artists sell their paintings on either side along ul. Pijarska. Upon passing through the gate it’s worth taking a quick detour to your left along the original defensive wall/ul. Pijarska to get a look at the Baroque majesty of the 4 Słowacki Theatre (see left), if you’ve yet to lay eyes on it. It’s also here on ul. Pijarska that you’ll find the entrance to the City Defensive Walls museum, which is only worth it for the photo opportunities from the balcony of the Floriańska Gate. As the city’s principal commercial street, ulica Floriańska comes steeped in history, with many of the townhouse facades featuring age-old murals and inscriptions among the signs for kebabs, dance clubs and currency exchange. Places of note along ul. Floriańska include the Jan Matejko House (no. 41, p.63), the Pharmacy Museum (no. 25, p.66), and the historical Jama Michalika Cafe (no.45, p.30) - famous for its role as the clubhouse for Kraków’s Art Nouveau movement.QJ‑4, ul. Floriańska.

Old Town Walking Tour 5 MAIN MARKET SQUARE Ulica Floriańska deposits you directly onto Kraków’s main market square (‘Rynek Główny’) in front of the iconic St. Mary’s Basilica: You are now standing in the very heart of the city with your finger on its pulse. Originally designed in 1257 - the year Kraków was awarded its charter – the grid-like layout of the Old Town and its central square have changed little in the centuries since. Measuring 200 metres square, the Rynek ranks as one of the largest medieval squares in Europe, and is surrounded by elegant townhouses, all with their own unique names and histories. Lined with cafes and restaurants, and filled with people, pigeons, street performers, musicians and horse-drawn carriages, this is the city’s social gravitational point, and a place of festivals, concerts, parades and other happenings. In fact, the Rynek has always been the city’s natural assembly point for public celebrations, parades, protests and even executions; it was here that homage to the King was sworn until 1596, here that Tadeusz Kościuszko famously inspired the locals to revolt against foreign rule in 1794, and here also that ‘Der Führer’ himself raucously announced the name change to ‘Adolf Hitler Platz’ during Nazi occupation. Fortunately the moniker didn’t last long and today the Rynek is again the biggest stage for Polish culture in the world, and absolutely packed with historical monuments and sights.QI‑5. 6 ST. MARY’S BASILICA First up is St. Mary’s Basilica - one of the most dazzling cathedrals in the country. After Tartar raids in the 13th century left the original church in ruins, St. Mary’s was rebuilt in Gothic style and re-consecrated in 1320. In the early 15th century the towers took the iconic form they have today, when the northern tower was raised to 80m high and made into a watchtower. It is from here that the hejnał - the city’s famous bugle call (see right) - is played every hour on the hour; don’t miss it.

St. Mary’s interior will take your breath away. The magnificent wooden altarpiece was the principal work of 15th century German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit Stwosz) for twelve painstaking years, and depicts the Virgin Mary’s Quietus among the apostles; note, however, that conservation work is currently underway (projected to last until 2020), and not all elements of the altar may be

THE HEJNAŁ

photo by Przemek Czaja; fb.com/MadeinKrakow

One of the most captivating Cracovian traditions is the hejnał (pronounced “hey-now”) – a short, melodious bugle call played every hour, on the hour, in the four cardinal directions from the left tower of St. Mary Basilica. For centuries it has been the job of local firemen to climb the 239 steps to the top of the tower, ring the church bell and perform the hejnał precisely on the hour. A source of pride and family heritage for the few men chosen to do it, the job requires not only great discipline, but also bravery as local legend would have it. The first written mention of the song dates all the way back to 1392, and though its exact origins are unclear, it was apparently used as a warning of fires or invasions. As the story goes, in 1241, as Tartar invaders crept near the city gates for a nefarious nocturnal attack, a night watchman saw them coming and played the signal from atop the defensive walls to arouse the slumbering city to arms. As he did so, an arrow pierced him through the throat, abruptly suspending the song in mid-melody. To this day, the tune likewise cuts off in mid-report to symbolise the city’s vigilance, and commemorate the lone guardsman who woke the city and thereby saved it. It’s a nice story, and since trumpet calls were used commonly across Europe during medieval times to open and close the city gates, its entirely conceivable that the legend is true. However, some have claimed that the story of the arrow-stricken trumpeter is a complete fiction made up in the 20th century. Polish journalist Leszek Mazan even went so far as to suggest that an American fabricated the whole ‘legend’ in 1929 (blasphemy!). Whatever its origin, any visitor or Cracovian will surely attest that the hejnał’s living tradition defines and shapes Kraków. In addition to pleasing visitors able to witness the bugle call live from the church tower every hour, the tune can also be heard all over Poland when it is broadcast live over the radio every day at noon. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Old Town Walking Tour ART CAFÉS

JAMA MICHALIKA Established in 1895, it was in this grand venue that Młoda Polska - Poland’s Art Nouveau movement - was founded, with many of the leading artists of the day taking their libations here, and then tacking their art on the walls. Much of it is still here, as well as fin-de-siecle furnishings, stained glass, an anachronous cloakroom and smoking section. In addition to beer, coffee and sweets, there’s also a full menu of Polish food, and even regular folk dancing concerts Wed & Sat at 19:00. Although the abundance of tourist groups and the poker-faced nature of the staff limits the appeal of return visits, stopping in at this legendary venue is still essential.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 45, tel. (+48) 12 422 15 61, www.jamamichalika.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. XUBE6W NOWOROLSKI This local classic inside the Cloth Hall has seen the city’s highs and lows since opening in 1910. Famous as Comrade Lenin’s preferred hangout during his visits, WWII occupation saw Noworolski become the top haunt of Nazi nabobs, before being commandeered by the communist authorities during the PRL era. Things have changed little here, making Noworolski a creaky throwback favoured today by well-dressed locals in the autumn of their years, but live piano concerts and the exquisite art nouveau interiors by Józef Mehoffer make it well worth a look. You can find cheaper and better coffee, but it won’t be served against such an atmospheric backdrop.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 515 10 09 98, www.noworolski. com.pl. Open 24-hours. BEW

on display during your visit. Surrounding the altar are polychrome paintings by Polish masters Matejko, Mehoffer and Wyspiański done in the late 19th century. When visiting, tourists are asked to use a side entrance, and only during the hours listed below. Tickets are purchased in a separate building across from the tourist entrance. The two church towers are also open to tourists, but require separate tickets.QJ‑5, Pl. Mariacki 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 07 37, www.mariacki.com. Church open 11:30 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00; admission 10/8/5zł, kids under 8 free. Mariacki Tower open Tue-Sat 09:10 - 17:30, Sun 13:10 17:30; admission 15/10zł, no kids under 7. Bell Tower open hourly Tue-Fri at 10:00, 11:00, 13:00, 14:00; admission 15zł, no kids under 12. Admission 10/8/5zł; kids under 8 free.

The Adam Mickiewicz Monument and St. Mary’s Basilica 7 ADAM MICKIEWICZ MONUMENT Between the market square’s two crowning glories - St. Mary’s and the Cloth Hall - lies this elaborate monument to Poland’s most eminent scribe, Adam Mickiewicz (17981855). One of the most important statues in Poland, this large likeness of the romantic poet and national hero was originally unveiled in 1898, and, like so many other symbols of national pride, was destroyed by the Germans during WWII. The statue you see today is a 1955 copy of Teodor Rygier’s original, and is a popular meeting place. Ironically, Lithuanian-born Mickiewicz (whose most famous work, Pan Tadeusz begins with the words ‘Lithuania, my country!’) never visited Kraków until 35 years after his death, when his body was laid to rest in the Royal Crypts just down the road at Wawel.QI‑5, Rynek Główny. 8 ST. ADALBERT’S CHURCH Kraków’s oldest church, this mad mix of pre-Roman, Roman, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture dates back to the 11th century, thus pre-dating the market square and thereby explaining its strange placement on the square, as well as why its floor sits some two metres lower. Inside is a small, uninspired Polish-only exhibit about the history of the market square (open from May 4th 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 14:00, closed Sun; admission 4/2zł, Mon free), but the best way to experience the church is during the daily classical concerts by the Royal Chamber Orchestra (18:00; 65zł).QI‑6, Rynek Główny, tel. (+48) 12 422 83 52, www.wojciechnarynku.pl. Closed to visitors until May 2019.

30 Kraków In Your Pocket

Old Town Walking Tour 9 CLOTH HALL (SUKIENNICE) The iconic showpiece at the centre of the market square, Kraków’s Cloth Hall is essentially one of the world’s oldest shopping malls, and its origins and development can be traced as those of the city itself. Proof of a structure at this site dates back to the mid-13th century; when King Kazimierz the Great approved construction of a purpose-built trading hall in the mid-14th century, Kraków’s importance as an east-west trading post vastly increased and the city thrived. After a fire in the mid-16th century, the Sukiennice was given a Renaissance facelift by Jan Maria Padovano, making it the most magnificent building in all of Kraków. Though the name ‘Sukiennice’ literally refers to textiles and fabrics, Kraków’s Cloth Hall saw an array of commodities bought and sold in its merchant stalls including wax, spices, leather and silk, as well as lead and salt from the nearby Wieliczka mines. To this day it is still crammed with merchant stalls selling amber, lace, woodwork and assorted tourist tat, and a stroll through its central thoroughfare is essential.

In 1879, despite the country having been partitioned for nearly a century (or rather because of it), the first Polish National Museum was established here on the upper floor, making the Cloth Hall the focus of a huge upsurge of Polish patriotism. Following a complete modernisation of the building’s interiors, this historical and highly recommended gallery was reopened as the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.60) in 2010. At the same time the Cloth Hall’s sloped roofs were converted into lovely terraces on the east side, where Cafe Szał now offers great views overlooking the market square and St. Mary’s Basilica, while on the ground floor the historical 1910 Noworolski Cafe (p.30) boasts wonderful Art Nouveau motifs by Jozef Mehoffer. The east side of the Cloth Hall is also the entry point for Rynek Underground (p.67) - one of Kraków’s most modern and popular museums, detailing the historical development of the area around the market square. Note, however, that tickets must be bought in an office on the west side of the Cloth Hall, and due to the museum’s popularity we suggest you get them a day in advance. QI‑5, Rynek Główny 1/3, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl.

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Old Town Walking Tour 10 TOWN HALL TOWER On the square’s other side is the 70m Town Hall Tower, the only element of the 14th century Town Hall remaining after many fires, renovations and short-sighted demolitions. Known as Kraków’s ‘leaning tower,’ the structure actually leans some 55cm, a curiosity credited to a particularly forceful wind back in 1703. For those who pay to enter the Town Hall Tower offers little aside from some medieval costumes, black and white photos, information about the clock at its top, only semi-decent views, and lots of stairs.

Beside the base of the Town Hall Tower you’ll find one of Kraków’s most well-known landmarks and popular meeting places - a giant, toppled bust known affectionately as ‘The Head.’Inevitably serving as a backdrop for almost every tourist who visits Kraków (your turn!), the bronze body part’s official title is 11 ‘Eros Bendato’ (Eros Bound) and is the work of Polish artist Igor Mitoraj (1944 - 2014).QI‑5, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 43 34, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 10:30-18:00; Mon 10:30-14:00. Closed 1st Tue of each month. Admission 10/8zł, family ticket 18zł. 12 PIOTR SKRZYNECKI MONUMENT

Before departing the market square, take note of one more monument opposite Eros - that of Piotr Skrzenecki. Always sharply dressed in hat and suit with fresh flowers in hand, the bronze Skrzynecki is a loyal patron of local dive bar Vis a Vis; so loyal that he exhibits total disregard for opening and closing times. A favourite spot of the real flesh-and-blood Piotr Skrzynecki, his bronze likeness is only a few doors down from Piwnica Pod Baranami (Rynek Główny 27), the legendary literary and political cabaret he founded in 1956. Until his death in 1997, Skrzynecki was an essential component of the Cracovian - and Polish - art scene, directing films, screenwriting, acting as Piwnica Pod Baranami’s conférencier, critiquing art, organising unusual cultural events, throwing far-out birthday bashes and being an all-around eccentric. His legacy lives on.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 29.

32 Kraków In Your Pocket

Collegium Maius Assembly Hall 13 COLLEGIUM MAIUS Exit the market square via ul. Św. Anny before veering onto ul. Jagiellońska to find Collegium Maius, the oldest building of Jagiellonian University, which is in turn the second oldest university in Central Europe. Built as the university’s main campus in the late 14th century, a century later it was redesigned as the late-Gothic structure surrounding the picturesque arcaded courtyard that has survived to this day. While professors lived and worked upstairs, it was in the ground floor lecture halls that Nicolaus Copernicus made doodles in the margins of his notebooks in the 1490s. Today a museum, over hour-long guided tours of the interiors and exhibits are given in English Mon-Fri at 13:00 (16/12zł), while more basic 30+ minute tours in English depart frequently (depends on interest; 12/6zł); it is suggested, however, that you call or visit in advance to reserve yourself a place on a tour. Inside you’ll visit the lecture hall, common rooms, professors’ quarters, library and treasury, seeing some fabulous interiors, paintings, furniture, medieval scientific instruments, rectors’ maces and other university memorabilia along the way, as well as the oldest surviving globe to depict the Americas. There is also a separate temporary exhibit entitled Science: Antiquated & Not-so-antiquated (rough translation; exhibit open Mon-Fri 09:00 - 13:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, closed Sun; last entrance 12:30; admission 7/5zł). Another highlight of visiting is the courtyard clock, from which wooden historical figures appear and parade past to music from the mid-16th century every two hours between 09:00 and 17:00. The building’s courtyard also houses a gift shop and cafe, and don’t miss the peaceful Professors’ Garden just next door (accessible via a beautiful painted passageway).QI‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13 07, www.maius.uj.edu.pl. Open 10:00 - 14:20; Tue, Thu 10:00 - 17:20; Sat 10:00 - 13:30; closed Sun. Admission 12/6zł (30min+ tour), 16/12zł (1hr+ tour); admission free for self-guided tours Sat 10:00 - 14:00, last entrance at 13:30. N

Old Town Walking Tour 14 COLLEGIUM NOVUM Found nearby, the main building of Jagiellonian University, Collegium Novum (Latin: New College) was built in 18731887 to a neo-gothic design by Feliks Księżarski to match the style of Collegium Maius. Subsidised with money from Vienna when Kraków was a ‘property’ of Austrian Galicia, the building was opened for the university’s 500th anniversary after years of controversy and debate. In addition to the gorgeous façade, the building contains a beautiful assembly hall (Aula) where a painting of Austria’s Franz Jozeph I hung until a group of students famously shredded it in a symbolic act calling for the restoration of an independent Polish Republic in 1918. Several important paintings remain, however, including portraits of university founders Kazimierz the Great and Władysław Jagiełło, and Jan Matejko’s Copernicus: Conversation with God. Today the university’s administrative centre, Collegium Novum is not necessarily open to tourists, but you might be able to have a poke around if you can pass yourself off as a student. A monument to Copernicus also stands nearby. QI‑6, ul. Gołębia 24.

Years of Disarray Art of the Avant-Garde in Central Europe 1908 –1928

Exhibition

8.03 – 9.06.2019 International Cultural Centre Gallery Rynek Glówny 25, Kraków Tuesday–Sunday 10.00 a.m.– 6.00 p.m. www.mck.krakow.pl

15 BISHOP’S PALACE & PAPAL WINDOW A pleasing stroll through the Planty will soon bring you to the Bishop’s Palace - the second largest palace in Kraków (after Wawel) and residence of Kraków’s bishops since it was first built in the 14th century. Today the Palace is most famous for having been the residence of Cardinal Karol Wojtyla from 1958 to 1978, before he became Pope John Paul II. During his visits to Kraków as Pope he would often make evening appearances in the ‘Papal Window’ to address the crowds of his followers below - a tradition which Pope Francis continued during his visit for World Youth Day in July 2016. For years an image of John Paul II has filled the window (making it easy to identify); recently this was replaced with a beautiful mosaic image of the former Pope by Magdalena Czeska. During anniversaries you can be sure the area across the street will be festooned with flowers and candles. The building itself is off-limits, but the courtyard is open to tourists where you’ll find the city’s first monument of JPII, erected in 1980.QI‑6, ul. Franciszkańska 3. Courtyard open from 09:00 until dusk.

16 ST. FRANCIS’ BASILICA Across the street you’ll find St. Francis’ Basilica, which may not look like much from the outside, but a trip inside reveals Kraków’s most colourful church, and our personal favourite, thanks to the gorgeous Art Nouveau interiors by native son Stanisław Wyspiański, which nicely balance the organic and geometric with unique floral patterns. Wyspiański also made the eight stained-glass windows here around 1895, including the controversial, iconic and absolutely must-see centrepiece, ‘God the Father in the Act of Creation’ (p.34). Dating back to the 13th century, St. Francis’ Basilica was the first brick building in the city and is well worth popping in, even for those who could care less for looking at another church.QI‑6, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 53 76, www. franciszkanska.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00; Sun 13:00 - 16:00.

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Old Town Walking Tour 17 WYSPIAŃSKI PAVILLION Following his work on St. Francis Basilica, Wyspiański was commissioned to design a triptych of windows for Wawel Cathedral. At the time, however, the artist’s haunting portrayals of St. Stanisław, Kazimierz the Great and Henryk Pobożny were deemed too grotesque and controversial to instal, and the project was shelved until director Andrzej Wajda resurrected the idea of producing them 100 years later. Using Wyspiański’s designs, the work was carried out by Piotr Ostrowski of the Stained Glass Museum and a building designed by Krzysztof Ingarden specifically for displaying them was erected near St. Francis Basilica in 2007. Curious for its facade of rotating brick panels and the fact that it is not suited for displaying stained glass at all (facepalm), the tiny building is too narrow to view the windows from inside, and natural light is not even able to pass through it. As a result, the out-facing windows are lit from inside and best viewed at night. Martyred Polish heroes St. Stanisław (on the left) and Henryk Pobożny (on the right) are shown Christ-like at the moment of their deaths, while Kazimierz the Great’s bare skull bears the royal crown between them. The building also serves as a tourist information point (open 09:00 - 17:00).QI‑6, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2.

STAINED GLASS

Thanks to a proliferation of magnificent churches, the largest stained glass studio in Poland, and resident artistic geniuses Stanisław Wyspiański and Józef Mehoffer, Kraków’s public buildings boast some of the finest examples of stained glass in all of Europe. Though there are many beautiful pieces of medieval window art throughout the city – particularly in Wawel Cathedral (p.38) and St. Mary’s Basilica (p.29) – stained glass reached its pinnacle as an artform here at the turn-of-the-century when S.G. Żeleński founded a studio specifically for stained glass, and persuaded the best Art Nouveau artists to work in the medium, including Wyspiański, Mehoffer and Stefan Matejko (nephew of Jan). Today the studio is still active, and open to the public as the Stained Glass Museum (p.68). Also don’t miss a visit to St. Francis’ Basilica (p.33) to see the magnificent window pictured above. For a complete list of beautiful stained glass sites in Kraków visit iyp.me/krakowstainedglass. 34 Kraków In Your Pocket

18 CHURCH OF SAINTS PETER & PAUL Walking down busy ul. Grodzka you are now officially back on the ‘Royal Route.’ One of Kraków’s most striking churches is the Church of Saints Peter & Paul - a Jesuit Church built in the early 1600s. The twelve disciples standing on the gates outside are the church’s most visually arresting feature, but the interior has been extensively renovated and the airy, austere grandeur of this late Renaissance building is now evident. The crypt serves as the new national pantheon for Poles distinguished in the arts, science and culture (Sławomir Mrożek was the first interred here in 2013). Possessors of a 46.5m Foucault Pendulum - a device invented by French physicist Leon Foucault in 1851 which proves the earth’s rotation, public demonstrations of its use are given every Thursday at 10:00, 11:00 and 12:00. QJ‑7, ul. Grodzka 52A, tel. (+48) 12 350 63 65, www. apostolowie.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00; Sun 13:30 18:00. 19 ST. ANDREW’S CHURCH Standing alongside the Church of Saints Peter & Paul, St. Andrew’s offers the finest example of Romanesque architecture in Kraków. Built between 1079 and 1098, it has been a place of worship for 900 years and was used as a refuge and fortress during Tartar invasions. Most of the relics were looted anyway, making a trip inside a bit of a letdown. Remodelled by Baldassare Fontana during the mad-for-all-things-Baroque 18th century, note the pulpit which resembles a boat - typical of the Baroque style.QJ‑7, ul. Grodzka 54, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 12. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Old Town Walking Tour 20 PLAC ŚW. MARII MAGDALENY The most picturesque route to Wawel involves cutting through Plac Św. Marii Magdaleny - a favourite haunt among local skateboarding youths, who pay no heed to the stern, disapproving sculpture of Jesuit priest Piotr Skarga hovering over the area. The square’s name refers to the long-gone St. Mary Magdalene Church, which stood in this spot from the 13th until early 19th century, when it was demolished after falling into a state of hopeless disrepair. A 1945 fire to the subsequent house built here convinced the city to simply make it a public space. Sick, bro.QI‑7.

„One of the best dining experiences we have ever had. This place deserves a michelin star!” James by krakow.inyourpocket.com ul. Kanonicza

photo by Przemek Czaja, fb.com/MadeinKrakow

21 UL. KANONICZA Now on ul. Kanonicza, this is one of Kraków’s oldest and most picturesque streets - a cobbled lane lined with superb examples of Renaissance and Baroque architecture, many of them leading into lush, quiet courtyards. Number 17 is a branch of the National Museum (Bishop Erazm Ciołek Palace, p.60), while next door is the Archdiocesan Museum (number 19) where Karol Wojtyła lived before becoming Pope John Paul II (find exhibits on the Pope inside). At the very end, number 25, lies the former royal bathhouse better known today as ‘Dom Długosza.’ One popular tale surrounding the bathhouse claims that the future Queen Jadwiga, concerned by rumours that Lithuanians had gigantic genitals, sent one of her servants here to spy on the manhood of Lithuanian Grand Duke Jagiełło - her husband-to-be. Her fears appear to have been allayed and the couple got married, taking up residence at Wawel Royal Castle - at the foot of which ul. Kanonicza deposits you. The city’s defining landmark, and a source of great pride, patriotic and spiritual strength, Wawel and the Wisła riverbanks below it are worth spending half a day exploring on their own.QI‑7.

Kraków, ul. Grodzka 40 tel. +48 12 430 04 11 www.miodmalina.pl

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Wawel

Photo by Wojciech Gorgolewski

The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top of the hill of the same name immediately south of the Old Town (I/J-5), is by far the most important collection of buildings in Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope, selfrule and not least of all fierce patriotism, Wawel offers a uniquely Polish version of the British Buckingham Palace and Westminster Abbey rolled into one. A gorgeous assortment of predominantly Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic architecture dating from around the 14th century onwards, Wawel is the crown jewel of Kraków’s architectural treasures and required visiting for Poles and foreigners alike. Even for those who know or care little about the country’s past, Poland’s ancient seat of royalty contains a vast wealth of treasures inside its heavily fortified walls that can’t fail to inspire. Made up of the Castle and the Cathedral, of which the former contains most, but by no means all of the exhibitions, Wawel’s must-see highlights include the opulent State Rooms, a tantalising glimpse of Poland’s very own crown jewels inside the Crown Treasury (currently closed), the historical interiors of the Cathedral, and, weather permitting, a leisurely stroll around its courtyards and gardens. After the 2010 Smoleńsk disaster, Wawel’s Royal Crypts became the final resting place of President Lech Kaczyński and his wife Maria; their tombs are open to the public free of charge. A full tour of Wawel, which is hard work but comes with its own rewards, can take an entire day or more. Take note, however, that due to the site’s popularity, you’d be wise to reserve tickets for the exhibits you want to see at least one day in advance. 36 Kraków In Your Pocket

WAWEL CASTLE Wawel’s prominence as a centre of political power predates the building of the first Cathedral on the site in 1000AD. Evidence shows that Wawel Hill was being used as a fortified castle before Poland’s first ruler, Mieszko I (circa 962-992) chose Wawel as one of his official residences. The first Polish king crowned in Wawel Cathedral was the teenage Władysław the Short (1306-1333) on January 20, 1319, beginning a tradition that would see a further 35 royal rulers crowned there up until the 17th century. All of these rulers used the Castle as a residence, and all of them added their own architectural details to the building. The moving of the capital to Warsaw in 1596 and Poland’s subsequent decline and partitioning saw the Royal Castle fall into a state of disrepair. The occupying Austrians used it as a military hospital and even went so far as to demolish several buildings including a number of churches on the site. The 20th century saw the Castle change hands on a number of occasions, most famously when the Castle was used as the headquarters of the Nazi Governor General, Hans Frank, during the German occupation of WWII. Today’s Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of styles including Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque. The inner courtyard with its delightful colonnades is a true architectural masterpiece, and the treasures contained within do much to contribute to Kraków’s rightful status as a truly world-class city. While almost all exhibits require a ticket, there is no charge to stroll and admire the castle grounds and courtyards. QI‑7, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 12 422 51 55 (ext.219), www. wawel.krakow.pl. Admission free for castle grounds; tickets required for various interior exhibits.

Wawel STATE ROOMS The main exhibition of Wawel Castle’s interiors, the spectacular State Rooms include several rooms on the ground floor - all of which have retained their magnificent Renaissance-era timber ceilings - and the guest apartments on the second floor. These are the rooms where the royals once entertained, held court, conducted sessions of the Senate, and hosted guests. Full of luscious oil paintings, intricate 16th-century tapestries, and some truly extraordinary wallcoverings, highlights include the Senator’s Hall - the largest room in the castle, which hosted the first royal wedding back in 1518, and the Envoys’ Room - complete with 30 wooden heads on the coffered ceiling (originally there were 194!) and an original throne that really brings the majesty of Poland’s past to life. Absolutely worth visiting, give yourself at least 40mins to take in all the extravagance.QI‑7, Wawel 5, www.wawel.krakow. pl. Open 09:30-17:00; Mon 09:30-13:00; Sat, Sun 10:0017:00. Admission 20/12zł. Mon free (ticket still required; check ticket office for availability 09:00 - 11:45). ROYAL PRIVATE APARTMENTS The Royal Private Apartments are basically a continuation of the State Rooms tour of the castle’s interiors, and equally stunning, however these rooms can only be accessed on a specially conducted guided tour (available in English or Polish; max. 10 people per group). Consisting of the royal bedchambers and guest rooms, these rooms on the first floor reveal how the royals lived and arranged their private lives. Packed with delightful Gothic and Renaissance details, your 40-60min guided tour will include the wonderful Guest Bedroom, complete with original Renaissance larch wood ceiling, and the charmingly-named, but mysterious ‘Hen’s Foot’ - two small rooms inside the 14th-century Belvedere Tower, which offer great views of Kraków’s Old Town, but whose original function is unknown.QI‑7, Wawel 5, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 09:30-17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00. Tours depart every 10mins until 16:00. Admission 27/21zł.

Bedchamber in the Royal Apartments

State Rooms, The Senator’s Hall

INFO & TICKETS WAWEL VISITOR CENTRE Wawel visitor numbers are restricted and tickets are timed in an attempt to prevent overcrowding. To ensure yourself entry, as well as avoid waiting in long queues, visitors are advised to reserve tickets online in advance. Unfortunately, this has to be done at minimum 14 days in advance of your visit, and the website is only in Polish. You can also call tel. 12 422 16 97 to reserve tickets several days before your visit. Tickets should be collected here at the Wawel Visitor Centre Reservation Office at least 30mins before the reserved tour time. All exhibits are self-guided except for the Royal Apartments, and Wawel Architecture & Gardens tour, however foreign language guides can be arranged in advance for any exhibit. In addition to ticket sales and pick-up, the Visitor Centre is also the place to get more info about tours and exhibits, pick up free maps or make use of the small post office, gift shop, cafe/restaurant and toilets.QI‑8, Wawel 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 51 55 (ext. 219), www.wawel.krakow. pl. Open 09:00-19:00. From May open 09:00 - 20:00. CATHEDRAL TICKET OFFICE The Cathedral and the Castle have different ticket offices. Tickets for the Cathedral can be purchased only in the ticket office directly opposite the Cathedral entrance. While entrance to the actual cathedral itself is free you will need a ticket to enter the adjoining Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell tower. A single ticket covers these as well as the Cathedral Museum. Audioguides are recommended to make the most of the experience, and can be rented here for 7/5zł (in Polish, English, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish, Czech, French and Hungarian). QI‑7, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 95 15, www.katedrawawelska.pl. Open 09:00-16:30; Sun 12:30-16:30. Tickets covering the Cathedral Museum, Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell cost 12/7zł. Note that the Cathedral Museum is closed Sun, but your ticket is valid to visit another day. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Wawel LOST WAWEL Essentially an archaeological and architectural reserve, the smartly conceived and executed exhibits here focus on the restored remains of the Rotunda of the Blessed Virgin Mary - Kraków’s first church, and the most well-preserved pre-Romanesque church in PL, as well as the former royal kitchens and coach house. Visitors will also see several lapidariums of early stonework, a collection of colourful Renaissance tiles, scale models, and virtual reconstructions of what Wawel Hill looked like over one thousand years ago.QI‑7, Wawel 5, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 09:3017:00; Mon 09:30-13:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00. Admission 10/7zł. Mon free (ticket still required; check ticket office for availability 09:00 - 11:45). ORIENTAL ART This exhibit in the western wing of the castle comprises art from the Near East which was highly prized and fashionable amongst the Polish nobility as it entered the kingdom via military and trade contact with Turkey, Iran, the Caucasus and Crimea. Visitors will see unique collections of Chinese ceramic and Japanese porcelain, but the part of the exhibit that makes it essential are the trophies, banners, weapons and other artefacts captured during King Jan Sobieski III’s famous victory over the Turkish army at Vienna in 1683, including Ottoman commander Kara Mustapha Para’s sabre.QI‑7, Wawel 5, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 09:30-17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 8/5zł. SANDOMIERSKA TOWER One of Wawel’s two artillery towers, Sandomierska Tower was built around 1460 to defend the castle against attack from the south. A small chamber on the third floor would have served as either a guard’s lodging or a prison for nobles, whereas common criminals were held in the dungeons. In the warm season, climb the 137 winding steps for great photo opportunities, particularly of the castle courtyard and Cathedral.QI‑8, Wawel 5, www. wawel.krakow.pl. Open from April 23, 10:00 - 17:00; April 27 to May 5, 10:00 - 19:00; from May 6 open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 5zł; children under 7 free. Tickets are sold from a machine outside the entrance (coins only), or in the Wawel Visitor Centre.

The Renaissance courtyard at Wawel © efektstudio80 - dollarphotoclub

38 Kraków In Your Pocket

Wawel Cathedral

Adobe Stock

WAWEL CATHEDRAL The scene of the crowning of almost every Polish king and queen throughout history, the current Wawel Cathedral is the third to be built on the site. The first cathedral was built of wood, probably around 1020, but certainly after the founding of the Bishopric of Kraków in 1000AD. Destroyed by fire it was replaced by a second cathedral that subsequently burnt down again. The current building was consecrated in 1364 and built on the orders of Poland’s first king to be crowned at Wawel, Władysław the Short (aka. Władysław the Elbow-high, 1306-1333), who was crowned among the charred rubble of its predecessor in 1319. Considered the most important single building in Poland, Wawel’s extraordinary Cathedral contains much that is original, although many glorious additions have been made over the centuries. Arguably not as stunning as that of its cousin St. Mary’s on the Rynek, the interior of Wawel Cathedral more than makes up for its visual shortcomings thanks to the sheer amount of history packed inside. At its centre is the imposing tomb of the former Bishop of Kraków, St. Stanisław (1030-1079), a suitably grand monument dedicated to the controversial cleric after whom the Cathedral is dedicated. Boasting 18 chapels, all of them about as ostentatious as you’re ever likely to see, of particular interest is the 15th-century Chapel of the Holy Cross, found to the right as you enter and featuring some wonderful Russian murals as well as Veit Stoss’ 1492 marble sarcophagus to Kazimierz IV. If you’re willing to spend the 12/7zł, the Royal Crypts in the basement offer a cold and atmospheric diversion as the final resting place of kings and statesmen, while at the top of a gruelling wooden series of staircases is the vast, 12.6 tonne Sigismund Bell - so loud it can supposedly be heard 30km away.QI‑7, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 27, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sun 12:30-17:00. Admission free.

Wawel ROYAL CRYPTS While all Poland’s pre-16th kings were buried beneath or within their hulking sarcophagi still on view in the Cathedral today, that trend stopped in 1533 when King Sigismund I had his wife interred in a purpose-built underground vault. He joined her in 1548 and the crypts were expanded in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries to house the remains of nine more Polish kings, their wives and, in some cases, their children thereafter. Upon the demise of the monarchy (and kingdom itself ), the honour was extended to statesmen with Prince Józef Poniatowski (1817), Tadeusz Kościuszko (1818), poets Adam Mickiewicz (1890) and Juliusz Słowacki (1923), Józef Piłsudski (1935) and General Władysław Sikorski (1993) all securing themselves a place here. Most recently - in April of 2010 - the late President Lech Kaczyński and his wife Maria were controversially interred here after the tragedy in Smoleńsk; admission to their tomb (and that of Piłsudski) is free. Descend the stairs inside the Cathedral into the remarkably chilly chambers, beginning with the 11th century St. Leonard’s Crypt - the best Romanesque interior in PL; the exit deposits you back outside.QI‑7, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sun 12:30-17:00. Admission 12/7zł. SIGISMUND BELL Follow the crowds up many gruelling flights of stairs to reach the infamous Sigismund Bell - a resounding symbol of Polish nationalism ala Philadelphia’s Liberty Bell. The largest of five bells hanging in the same tower, Sigismund’s Bell weighs in at an astounding 12.6 total tonnes (9650 kgs just for the bell itself), measures 241cm in height, 242cm in diametre and varies from 7 to 21cm thick. The bronze beauty was cast in 1520 on the orders of King Sigismund I and is adorned in reliefs of St. Stanisław and St. Sigismund as well as the coat of arms of Poland and Lithuania. Rung to this day on religious and national holidays, as well as significant moments in history (like the funeral of late President Lech Kaczyński and his wife) the bell’s peal can be heard 30km (186 miles) away and is quite an enterprise to ring, requiring twelve bell-tollers who are actually lifted from the ground by the bell’s force. The entrance is within the Cathedral and tickets (good for the Royal Crypts as well) are purchased at the ticket office across from the Cathedral entrance.QI‑7, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sun 12:30-17:00. Admission 12/7zł. CATHEDRAL MUSEUM Opened in 1978 by Karol Wojtyła just before he became Pope John Paul II, the fabulous Cathedral Museum features a wealth of religious and secular items dating from the 13th century onwards, all related to the ups and downs of the Cathedral next door. Among its most valuable possessions is the sword deliberately snapped into three pieces at the funeral of the Calvinist king, Zygmunt August (1548-1572) - the last of the Jagiellonian dynasty, as well as all manner of coronation robes and royal insignias to boot. A large monument of Pope JPII stands outside the entrance.QI‑7, Wawel 2, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska. pl. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sun. Admission 12/7zł.

THE WAWEL DRAGON

DRAGON’S DEN Formed about 25 million years ago, the spectacular limestone formation of Wawel Hill is not the solid piece of rock it appears to be, but rather filled with eerie caves and crawl spaces. As legend would have it, the craggy chambers beneath Wawel were once home to Smok Wawelski, or the Wawel Dragon, a particularly nasty creature who liked nothing more than to gorge himself on sheep and maidens. Story goes that as the village ran out of virgins, the King promised the hand of his only daughter to the hero who could vanquish the vile beast. Wave upon wave of brave knights fell beneath the dragon’s fiery breath before a poor cobbler named Krak tricked Smok into eating a sheep stuffed full of sulphur, which instantly ignited inside his gullet. With an unquenchable thirst the dragon drank half the river before his distended belly exploded and the town was freed of his wrath. Krak married the princess, of course, became king, built his castle on the dragon’s lair and the people built a city around it named ‘Kraków’ after their saviour king. Smok’s bones were hung triumphantly outside the entrance of the Cathedral, where they remain today. His cave became a famous tavern and brothel during medieval times and today functions as a tourist trap luring families into its dripping, less than awe-inspiring confines (kids love it!). Save this for last since the route through the caves leads you down a descending staircase inside the castle courtyard to be later deposited outside the complex on the riverbank below, right in front of Smok’s sculpted bronze likeness. Since 1972, this strange-looking Smok has been entertaining crowds with intermittent blasts of fiery breath, so just be patient and don’t look down his throat.QI‑8, Wawel Hill, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open from April 23, 10:00 - 17:00; April 27 to May 5, 10:00 - 19:00; from May 6 open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 5zł. Tickets are purchased from a machine outside the entrance (note that it only takes coins and doesn’t give change!), or from the Wawel Visitor Centre. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Kazimierz Walking Tour

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Kazimierz Walking Tour Kazimierz – the district south of the Old Town between ul. Dietla to the north and the Wisła River to the south was the centre of Jewish life in Kraków for over 500 years, before it was systematically destroyed during World War II. In the communist era Kazimierz became one of Kraków’s dodgiest districts while gradually falling into disrepair. Rediscovered in the 1990s, thanks to the fall of the regime and worldwide exposure through the lens of Steven Spielberg, Kazimierz began its rebound and is today arguably Kraków’s most exciting district – a bustling, bohemian neighbourhood packed with historical sites, atmospheric cafes, art shops and galleries. Well-known for its associations with Schindler and Spielberg, traces of Kazimierz’s Jewish history have not only survived, but literally abound in the form of the district’s numerous synagogues and Jewish cemeteries. In fact, no other place in Europe conveys a sense of pre-war Jewish culture better than Kazimierz. As a result, the district has become a major tourist draw and pilgrimage site for Jews, and contemporary Jewish culture has gradually returned to prove that there’s more to Kazimierz than just sepia photographs and old synagogues. In addition to Jewish culture, however, here you’ll find the heart of Kraków’s artistic, bohemian character behind the wooden shutters of dozens of antique shops and art galleries. Peeling façades and obscure courtyards hide dozens of bars and cafes, many affecting an air of pre-war timelessness. Centred around the former Jewish square now known as Plac Nowy, Kazimierz has emerged as the city’s best destination for café culture, street food and nightlife. Alternative, edgy and packed with oddities, Kazimierz is an essential point of interest to any visitor.

WALKING TOUR IYP’s Kazimierz walking tour weaves you through the district between its major points of interest, beginning at ‘Stradom’ - exactly one tram stop south of Wawel, and ending at Plac Wolnica, from which point you’re wellpositioned to carry on into Podgórze across the river (p.48). The trail is exactly 1.5km and can be done in as little as 30 minutes if you refuse to take more than a passing interest in anything; for those that have the time to spend we reckon it will comfortably occupy a few hours. An incredibly self-contained and densely pack little neighbourhood, you could obviously start at any point on the map, but for our purposes we begin the route as a logical extension of our Old Town Walking Tour (p.26) and an exploration of Wawel (p.36, not that you could do all that in one day). A less than ten-minute walk from Wawel Castle, or a trip on tram 18 will deposit you at the threshold of Kazimierz at the stop ‘Stradom’ where our tour begins. Note that due to the closure of ul. Krakowska, more trams are running to the ‘Miodowa’ stop at the moment, which may make it easier to begin your visit to Kazimierz from that side of neighbourhood.

0 UL. DIETLA

Today a major traffic artery through the city, until 1878 ul. Dietla was a swampy tributary of the Wisła before thenmayor Józef Dietl (hence the name) had it filled and turned into a green beltway. Though war damages, the addition of vehicular lanes and eventually a tramline in 1970 have lessened its appeal as a park, ul. Dietla remains a landmark street lined with imposing tenement buildings, many of them built by wealthy Jewish merchants. As you cross, look back to where you got off the tram which is directly below the Ohrenstein house (ul. Dietla 42) - this five-storey tenement building was built between 1911 and 1913 and was the city’s largest pre-war tenement building; a spire at its peak was taken down by the Nazis.QJ‑8. UL. MEISELSA Following the prescribed trail brings you to ul. Meiselsa, or ‘ulica Rabina Beera Meiselsa’ to give it its full due, so named after Dow Ber Meisels - Chief Rabbi of Kraków from 1832 to 1856, and then Chief Rabbi of Warsaw until his death in 1870. Deeply involved in politics, Meisels was a Polish patriot and nationalist who fought to abolish discriminatory laws against Jews, and supported Polish independence. In Kraków with Catholic support he served on the Senate and even represented the city in sessions of the Austrian Parliament in Vienna. In Warsaw his outspoken support of the Polish cause led to persecution from the Russian government and multiple periods of forced exile; his funeral in 1870 became a large Polish-Jewish demonstration against Russian rule. At the corner of Meiselsa and Bożego Ciała (Corpus Christi Street), Judaism and Christianity intersect. A 19th century Jewish bathhouse is today Hevre (p.106) - a hip bar and restaurant, while catty-corner is a mural of Gene Kelly singing in the rain, before you reach a picturesque passageway on the right made famous in scenes from Spielberg’s Schindler’s List (ul. Meiselsa 17). Next door is the fabulous Mleczarnia beer garden (p.108), before reaching the Judaica Foundation and Plac Nowy.QJ/K‑8.

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Kazimierz Walking Tour 1 JUDAICA FOUNDATION Located inside a former Jewish prayer house which was in operation from the 1880s up until WWII, this building was saved from ruin, renovated, and opened as a Jewish cultural centre in 1993. Today it subsists on a steady diet of lectures, concerts, art exhibits, film screenings and other events that reflect Jewish life in Poland’s past and present. In the cellar you’ll find an antique store and bookshop full of Judaica, while the ground floor hosts the Sara cafe/bar (open 10:00 - 21:00), whose small rooftop garden is one of Kazimierz’s best-kept secrets.QK‑8, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 49, www.judaica.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-16:00. 2 PLAC NOWY While Kraków’s main square, Rynek Główny, makes all the postcards and photographs, Plac Nowy has established itself as the spiritual centre of Cracovian subculture. Lacking the splendour of the Old Town, Plac Nowy is actually something of an eyesore – a concrete square lined with cars and filled with food hatches, market stalls and rat-like pigeons. If you want something completely different from the Old Town, however, here it is.

Incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late 1600s, Plac Nowy (New Square) didn’t really begin assuming its shape until the early 19th century, with its central landmark, the Okrąglak (rotunda), added as late as 1900. For generations this square was referred to by locals as Plac Żydowski (Jewish Square); not only was it the primary marketplace of the Jewish quarter, but the rotunda served as a ritual slaughterhouse for poultry right up until Nazi occupation. Today butcher shops still occupy the interior, but the real activity is outside where hungry locals of every ilk line-up in front of hole-in-the-wall food hatches to enjoy the best ‘zapiekanki’ (p.79) in Poland. Essentially a French bread pizza with the toppings of your choice, visiting Kraków without eating a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be like visiting Dublin without having a Guinness. Merchant stalls surround the rotunda, and daily markets last until early afternoon. Fresh produce, sweets and random rubbish are constant guarantees, but weekly highlights include junk/antique sale Saturdays, Sunday’s clothing market, and Friday morning’s bewildering small critter expo/pigeon fair. A photo essay waiting to happen, arrive between 05:30 and 08:00 to the latter to learn the answer to the riddle, ‘How many rabbits fit in a suitcase?’ As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a new guise: Kraków’s premier pub crawl circuit. Full of shambolic charm, veteran boozers Singer (p.108) and Alchemia (p.105) put Plac Nowy on the nightlife map, and remain the square’s best bets for candlelit, pre-war mystique. In recent years the bars on offer have begun to diversify, but the fact of the matter remains that this bohemian outpost is one of Kraków’s most interesting and exciting nightlife destinations.QK‑8. 42 Kraków In Your Pocket

Kazimierz Walking Tour 3 TEMPLE SYNAGOGUE Exit Plac Nowy stage left via ul. Estery and you’ll run straight into the JCC and adjoining Temple Synagogue. Kazimierz’s newest synagogue dates back to 1862, with several later expansions, the most recent of which was in 1924. Under Nazi occupation the building was used as a warehouse and stables, yet survived the war and regular services were even held here until 1968, before stopping completely a decade later. Since restoration, the gilded woodwork within now plays host to many concerts and occasional religious ceremonies, particularly during the annual Jewish Festival of Culture each summer.QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11, www.krakow. jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 10:00-16:00; closed Sat. Admission 10/5zł. 4 JEWISH COMMUNITY CENTRE Opened in 2008 by the Prince of Wales, the JCC is the headquarters of Kraków’s surviving and strengthening Jewish community and organises numerous events, lectures, exhibits, tours and community programmes with the aim of rebuilding Jewish life in Kraków. A friendly first point of contact for anyone wanting to know more about Kraków’s Jewish community, walk-ins are welcome; or check their website or FB page to see what’s going on.QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 75, www. jcckrakow.org. Open 10:00-20:00; Fri 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Sat.

5 KUPA SYNAGOGUE Continuing down ul. Miodowa you’ll quickly find another synagogue on your right side. The unfortunately-named Kupa synagogue was founded in 1643, using funds from the local kahal/qahal (mi-kupat ha-kahal) - the autonomous Jewish government which explains where the name comes from, but doesn’t change the fact that ‘kupa’ means ‘poop’ in Polish (oh well). Designed in Baroque style with a square prayer room, the synagogue shares a wall with the original Kazimierz city defensive walls, which can still be seen today. During the war it was looted and many architectural elements were destroyed, including the bimah. Restored in 2002, the interior features 1920s ceiling paintings of Biblical scenes and holy places by an unknown artist, as well as zodiac symbols on the balcony. An informational pamphlet in English is available, and there is also a small photo exhibit in the upstairs women’s gallery.QK‑8, ul. Warszauera 8 (entrance from ul. Miodowa 27), tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35, www.krakow.jewish.org.pl. Open 09:30-18:00; Fri 09:00-16:00; closed Sat. Admission 6/3zł.

BOOK A TOUR http://bit.ly/TourKazimierz

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Kazimierz Walking Tour

Ulica Szeroka

www.flickr.com, Ana Paula Hirama

UL. SZEROKA Make a right onto ul. Szeroka, perhaps Kazimierz’s most characteristic street, and you’ll walk down a narrow lane which has been staged to resemble a row of prewar Jewish shop fronts (actually the ‘Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu’ restaurant, p.97) before the street opens up into a wide square. Kraków’s very own ‘Broad Street’ (as the favourite opening line of local tour guides goes) might differ considerably from its NYC doppelnamer, but the moniker fits; the street originally served as the town square of a small 12th-century village known as Bawół, which was absorbed into Kazimierz in 1340, a few years after the latter was awarded its charter. In the late 15th century Jews banished from Kraków started settling in this area, and a new synagogue was established on the square for three subsequent centuries - all of which survive to this day. The epicentre of Jewish heritage tourism in Kraków, among the main points of interest on ul. Szeroka are a monument of Jan Karski - ‘Righteous Among the Nations’ for his early efforts to alert the Western Allies of the Holocaust - beside the Remuh Synagogue (ul. Szeroka 40), and a 16th-century Jewish bath house (mikvah) located in the basement of what is today the Klezmer Hois hotel and restaurant (ul. Szeroka 6, p.97). At the north end of the square a small patch of grass that was probably established as a cemetery for plague victims is today a memorial and “Place of meditation upon the martyrdom of 65,000 Polish citizens of Jewish nationality from Cracow,” as a large stone monument explains.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka.

NEW JEWISH CEMETERY This enormous cemetery was established in 1800 and was the burial ground for many of Kraków’s distinguished Jews in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Its story takes on a darker aspect with the decimation of the Jewish population between 1939 and 1945. Many of the tombstones are actually no more than memorials to entire families that were killed in the Holocaust, which now lie in overgrown clusters. The rejuvenation of Kazimierz has not fully penetrated the walls of the New Cemetery, but there are many newly-lit candles burning over the headstones. An undeniably evocative place for a reflective walk, please cover your head upon entry.QL‑7, ul. Miodowa 55. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. 44 Kraków In Your Pocket

6 REMUH SYNAGOGUE & CEMETERY Dating from 1553, this is Kraków’s smallest but most active synagogue, with Shabbat services once again taking place here each Friday following the recent completion of restoration works. The synagogue was established by the family of famous 16th century Polish rabbi Moses Isserles - better known as ‘the Rema,’ based on a Hebrew acronym, and is unique for the proximity of the Old Jewish Cemetery adjacent to it. In use until 1800, this holy burial ground fell into utter ruin during Nazi occupation with only a dozen tombstones surviving WWII in their original state; among them was that of Rabbi Moses Isserles, which many interpreted as proof of his miraculous power. After the war the cemetery was ‘tidied up’ with many of the intact tombstones being rearranged in straight rows, and fragments of those which could not be restored used to create a ‘wailing wall’ along ulica Szeroka. Today the cemetery and synagogue - whose modestly decorated interior features a reconstructed bimah and restored ceiling motifs - are an important pilgrimage site for devout Jews from all over the world.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 40, tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35, www.krakow.jewish.org.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Fri 09:00-16:00; closed Sat. Admission 10/5zł.

Remuh Cemetery 7 POPPER SYNAGOGUE Tucked behind a gated courtyard, nestled between the street’s Jewish restaurants, you’ll find Popper Synagogue - the least celebrated of ul. Szeroka’s Jewish places of worship. Built in 1620 by wealthy Jewish merchant Wolf Popper, the building was devastated during WWII such that none of its interiors survived; in fact little is known of them. Converted into a cultural centre (Dom Kultury) during the PRL era, the synagogue was only recently returned to the hands of the Jewish community and is now under the stewardship of Austeria - a publishing house and bookshop specialising in Judaica (literature, history and guide books in a number of languages). A colourful Jewish-themed mural can be found in the courtyard here, and upstairs is a small gallery space with changing exhibits that typically charges admission.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 16, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 89. Open 10:0019:00.

Kazimierz Walking Tour

Old Synagogue 8 OLD SYNAGOGUE Built on the cusp of the 15th and 16th centuries, this is the oldest surviving example of Jewish religious architecture in Poland, and home to a fine series of exhibits that showcase the history and traditions of Polish Judaism. The English explanations assume no great depth of knowledge on the reader’s part and are therefore a perfect primer on the subject. In the midst of all the glass cases stands the bimah enclosed in an elaborate, wrought iron balustrade. There are also changing temporary exhibitions, and the bookshop sells a fine selection of works related to Jewish Kraków in a number of languages.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 24, tel. (+48) 12 422 09 62, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Mon 10:00-14:00. Admission 11/9zł, family ticket 22zł, Mon free. Y 9 ISAAC SYNAGOGUE Either before or after exploring the Old Synagogue, take a detour down ul. Lemkowa - a small, picturesque lane which leads to the Plac Izaaka food truck square (p.81) directly behind the Isaac Synagogue. Built in the early Judaic-Baroque style, the Isaac Synagogue was a gift to the city from Izaak Jakubowicz, and opened in 1644. The design is endowed with decorative arabesques and arches, yet retains a sober linearity, especially within. There is much to admire, not least the fragments of original wall scriptures. A shop inside sells kosher food, sweets, Jewish calendars and other items, and around the back you’ll find Szalom Falafel - Kraków’s only kosher fast food restaurant (ul. Jakuba 21; open 10:00 - 21:30; Fri 10:00 15:00; closed Sat; closed April 19-27).QK‑8, ul. Kupa 18, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 22, www.chabadkrakow.org. Open 08:3020:00; Fri 08:30-14:30; closed Sat. Admission 10/5zł. 10 KAZIMIERZ HISTORICAL MURAL Turning from the Isaac Synagogue onto ul. Kupa you’ll immediately see this mural by Piotr Janowczyk. Installed outside Pub Wręga in autumn of 2015 as part of the Kazimierz Historical Murals project, the work features portraits of five Polish historical figures - namely, (from left to right) Emperor Józef Hapsburg II, Helena Rubinstein (born in the district), Karol Knaus (local architect, artist and conservator), Esterka (the Jewish lover of King Kazimierz the Great), and finally King Kazimierz the Great himself. Information on each character can be found in English beside the work.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 17.

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Kazimierz Walking Tour 13 GALICIA JEWISH MUSEUM A walk to the end of ul. Józefa brings you back to ul. Szeroka and the Old Synagogue. If you walk down the Old Synagogue steps you can cut across to the left to ul. Dajwór and the Galicia Jewish Museum; as you cross the street make sure to take note of the large-scale mural on Plac Bawół to your right, which was inspired by the Jewish family that lived in the building for 400 years before relocating to Israel after WWII.

Entrance to the High Synagogue and Austeria Jewish bookshop 11 HIGH SYNAGOGUE Further on you’ll find the third oldest synagogue in Kraków, completed in 1563. Unique for having its prayer room upstairs, it’s widely speculated that the High synagogue was thus designed to protect the congregation from unfriendly neighbours. The design didn’t save it from being the subject of arson during WWII sadly, and today no furnishings remain. The upstairs prayer room has retained some original details, however, including the Holy Ark, two golden griffins have survived above the Aron Kodesh, and some of the murals have been restored. The size of the high-ceilinged room and quality of those details that do remain indicate that this was a magnificent space before its destruction. Today it hosts a small exhibit of photos of Cracovian Jewish families from the inter-war period. On the ground floor is Austeria - a large bookstore with books of Jewish interest in a variety of languages.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 38, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 89. Open 09:30-19:00. Admission to upstairs exhibit 12/9zł, children under 10 free. 12 KOWEA ITIM LE-TORA PRAYER HOUSE If you thought Kraków had a lot of churches, two doors down from the High Synagogue, en route to the Old Synagogue, you’ll find this Orthodox prayer house. Most of what we know of the building is based off of its still-justvisible Hebrew inscription, which says something along the lines of ‘Making Time for the Torah Society,’ and indicates that Talmud lessons were conducted here. The two Stars of David on either side of the inscription tell us that the organisation was founded in 1810 and that the building was renovated in 1912. The original mezuzah trace can be seen on the doorway here, and on many buildings in the district if you keep your eye out. Devastated during the war, today the building is strictly residential.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 42.

46 Kraków In Your Pocket

The Galicia Jewish Museum also features a huge mural on its exterior wall, and a journey deep into the adjacent garden reveals further murals of Irena Sendler (Righteous Among the Nations) and Marek Edelman (leader of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising). Inside, the permanent exhibit of this popular museum keeps the memory of Jewish life in the region alive via hundreds of photographs documenting Jewish heritage sites in former ‘Galicia’ - the name of the ethnically diverse province of the Austrian Habsburg Empire, which existed from 1772-1918 and extended from Kraków to Ternopil (present-day Ukraine). The images of forgotten cemeteries, derelict synagogues and death camps prove haunting and sober viewing, and deserve to be part of any Kazimierz tour. The museum also houses temporary exhibits, a large bookstore and a cafe. Across the street is a food truck park.QL‑8, ul. Dajwór 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68 42, www. galiciajewishmuseum.org. Open 10:00-18:00. Admission 16/11zł, family ticket 30zł, children under 7 free. Guided tours available (in English, French and German) for individual and groups if arranged in advance. U UL. ŚW. WAWRZYŃCA Named after Saint Lawrence, this long street which leads you from the Galicia Jewish Museum to Plac Wolnica was one of the most industrialised streets in the city in the early 1900s, and the city’s electrical power plant and gas works both remain hidden here in the spacious territory between ul. Wawrzyńca and the river. Several points of interest can be found along this street, the first, and most enticing of which, is the Judah Square Food Truck Park (p.81) and the large mural by Israeli street artist Pil Peled that presides over it. Next, on the same side of the street is the former Jewish school, today a pubic high school.

Judah Square Food Truck Park

photo by Aga Burghardt

Kazimierz Walking Tour If you follow the tram tracks beneath you’re feet, you’ll notice that they run astray off the left side of the street about halfway down the road, and go no further. This is Kazimierz’s late 19th century tram depot, today home to the Engineering Museum (p.62) - one of the city’s more charming and family-friendly museums. Tucked into one of the depot’s back buildings you’ll also find the classy Studio Qulinarne restaurant (p.94), entrance from ul. Gazowa). The second half of this huge and historical transportation complex is actually across the street and today host to the sprawling Stara Zajezdnia (p.108) brewery, beer hall and restaurant - an incredibly popular summer beer garden. Heading on from the tram depot, the entire final two city blocks to Plac Wolnica on the right side belong to the church, Corpus Christi Church to be exact. One of the city’s largest holy sites, this massive brick beauty is a three-naver in Gothic style and dates back to the 14th century. According to legend, a robber who had stolen a holy relic repented on this spot, abandoning the reliquary. The priests in pursuit saw a strange light emanating from the ground and discovering their sacred prize, founded a church here in recognition of the miracle.QK‑9, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca. 14 PLAC WOLNICA Arriving on Plac Wolnica today, it’s hard to imagine that this square was once equal in size and stature to Kraków’s Rynek Główny. When laid out as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek Kazimierski) upon the town’s establishment in 1335, this space measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter on each side than Rynek Główny) making it the second largest market square in Poland, if not Europe. It was here that all the administrative and judicial authorities of Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco to salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace it once was, today’s Plac Wolnica covers only a small fragment of the square’s original size. Fortunately the Town Hall which stood at its very centre has managed to survive. Falling into ruin after Kazimierz’s incorporation into Kraków in 1802, the Town Hall was taken over by local Jewish authorities who renovated it into its present neo-Renaissance style in the late 19th century. A curious plaque on the building commemorates the arrival of the Jews to Poland in the Middle Ages, and since WWII the Town Hall has housed the Ethnographic Museum (p.62).

Perhaps ironically given its former status, urban revitalisation was slower to reach Plac Wolnica than the once predominantly Jewish neighbourhoods around Plac Nowy, but the square has caught up. Hosting an increasing number of cultural events, and with cafes and restaurants having sprouted up all around its edges, this historic square has re-earned a rightful place on any tour of the district. A trip from here down ulica Mostowa will lead you straight to the Bernatek footbridge into Podgórze (p.49). QK‑9. krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Podgórze Just south across the river from Kazimierz, lies Podgórze - a large district rich in natural beauty, tragic history and unusual attractions. The name means ‘foothills,’ and its unique geography makes it one of Krakow’s greenest districts and most exciting to explore, thanks to wooded hills, limestone cliffs and ridges that offer panoramic views of the city centre. It is this same sinister geography, however, which resulted in Podgórze being the site of the city’s greatest human tragedy. The Nazis saw its natural placement between the river and the cliffs of Krzemionki as the ideal place for establishing a prison district, and in March of 1941 Kraków’s Jewish population was marched into the centre of Podgórze and walled off in what became known as the Kraków Ghetto (iyp.me/krakowghetto). Liquidated two years later, the majority of the Ghetto’s residents were murdered inside, while others met death in the nearby Płaszów concentration camp (iyp.me/ plaszow), or in the gas chambers of Auschwitz (p.74) and Bełżec. Traces of the Ghetto (p.52) are still visible today, and Podgórze’s wartime history and connections to Oskar Schindler remain what people most associate with the district. However, Podgórze has a long history which dates back over 10,000 years ago to the city’s founding myth. Legend explains Podgórze’s Krakus Mound (p.54) as the burial place of the city’s first ruler, and scientific studies have proven it to be Kraków’s most ancient structure dating back to the Iron Age. Podgórze also has a proud tradition of independence, having been granted the rights of a free city in 1784 by the Austrian Emperor Joseph II. Incorporated into greater Kraków in 1915, the district proudly reasserted its independence when on October 31st, 1918 local militants led by Antoni Stawarz seized control of the district from the Austrian Army in what is regarded as the first the action of the Second Republic of Poland following WWI. Although slow to develop in the years after the fall of communism, the opening of the world-class Schindler’s Factory Museum (p.53) in 2010 not only helped the city come to terms with the ghosts of the Holocaust, it also established Podgórze as a bona fide destination for tourists. The construction of the Bernatek footbridge soon afterwards opened the floodgates even further, creating a direct link from Plac Wolnica (p.47) to Rynek Podgórski (p.50) and leading to a burst of cafes and restaurants on the other side of the river. Today Podgórze is accepted as an obligatory part of the Kraków tourist trail, but still retains an evocative atmosphere of anguish and independence that sets it apart from Kraków’s other neighbourhoods. To get the most out of it, make time to explore its mysterious, lesser-known landmarks in addition to its marquee museums.

OLD PODGÓRZE Begin by crossing over the picturesque Bernatek footbridge and enjoy the neighbourhood atmosphere of the cafes, ice cream parlours and restaurants immediately along ul. Brodzińskiego en route to Rynek Podgórski to see the stunning St. Joseph’s Church (p.49). Next work your way to Podgórze’s other main square - Plac Bohaterów Getta, today a memorial for the victims of the Ghetto. Ulica Jozefińska will not only lead you that way, but also still possesses a certain aura from those times; keep your eyes peeled for plaques on sides of buildings dedicated to the time of the Ghetto, and also an enormous mural dedicated to local sci-fi author Stanisław Lem. For those that don’t have the strength for the 3hr undertaking that is the Schindler’s Factory Museum (or Auschwitz for that matter), the Eagle Pharmacy on Plac Bohaterów Getta (p.51) provides a manageable (but just as moving) alternative, particularly for those with an interest in the wartime experience of the city’s Jewish community; if you’re more of a general WWII buff, you’ll probably prefer the larger scope of Schindler’s Factory. Head to the latter via the Plac Bohaterów Getta underpass and then down ul. Kącik, or make a detour to see a stretch of the original Ghetto Wall (p.52) still standing on ul. Lwowska. BERNATEK FOOTBRIDGE Opened in 2010, the Father Bernatek Footbridge straddles the Wisła River linking the districts of Kazimierz and Podgórze. With a twin walkway design by local architect Andrzej Getter, the 130m-long structure exclusively accommodates pedestrians and cyclists and has become beloved for its convenience and aesthetic appeal. The bridge has also played a key role in the revitalisation of the route from Plac Wolnica to Rynek Podgórski, which is now perfect for a pub crawl or a romantic stroll. It’s here, after all, that couples have adopted the tradition of attaching padlocks engraved with their names, and then throwing the keys into the river (while the rest of us throw up in our mouths), to prove the permanence of their love. Since 2016, the bridge has been adorned with nine acrobatic, gravity-defying sculptures by Jerzy Kędziora, which we hope stay there forever.QK‑9.

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Podgórze EAT & DRINK The range of places to eat in Podgórze has exploded in recent years, such that you’ll no longer struggle to find one, but here are some places worth seeking out that you might not otherwise find on your own. BAL If you’re feeling a bit self-conscious about being a tourist, Bal will restore your street cred. Well hidden in a courtyard behind MOCAK, this popular cafe and lunch spot was on the first wave of pioneers to pitch their tents in this part of town. A hip hangout with high ceilings and exposed bulbs, wooden tables and white walls, stop in for breakfast sets (served until 11:30; all day on weekends), daily lunch specials, sandwiches, pasta, great coffee and cocktails. Essentially the antithesis of everything in the Old Town, with Bal Kraków’s young creatives are marking their territory.QN‑9, ul. Ślusarska 9 (entrance from ul. Przemysłowa), tel. (+48) 734 41 17 33. Open 08:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-21:00. T6W

RYNEK PODGÓRSKI This handsome triangular plot was once the official main market ‘square’ of the Free City of Podgórze, until the independent city was absorbed into Kraków in 1915. The marketplace was laid out in the 18th century at the foot of Lasota Hill, where roads leading to Kraków, Kalwaria, and Wieliczka intersected. Once frequented by merchants from regional cities and more distant parts of Austria-Hungary, the Rynek had to say goodbye to commerce in 1917 when a new tram line was added, its turning loop taking up most of the trading space (oh modernity). Though the loop was eventually moved, the markets never resumed, and today the quiet square is mostly lined with residential buildings, save for the iconic St. Joseph’s Church dominating the south end, and two former Town Halls - the ‘Under the White Eagle’ manor at no. 14 (early 19th century to 1854), and the stately building at no. 1 (1854-1915, now the Kraków City Council Department of Architecture). It was beside the latter that a main gate into the Jewish Ghetto stood on ul. Limanowskiego during WWII (L-10).

MANZANA Hidden in what appears at first scan to be a random parking lot, this is Kraków’s most authentic Mexican eatery by miles, even though the menu actually skews more Tex-Mex. The taquitos and quesadillas are delish, the nachos are enormous (the smaller size is plenty), and even the burgers are quite good. Though prices are pegged a bit high, the atmosphere in the vast interior, making Manzana the kind of place you’d want to frequent often - which it would appear many American ex-pat families do. With daily specials - including the obligatory Taco Tuesday, great food, and the largest selection of tequilas in town...you know, we’re really quite fond of this place.QL‑10, ul. Krakusa 11, tel. (+48) 514 78 68 13, www.manzanarestaurant.com. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-21:00. €€. TW ZABŁOCIE 13 A short walk from (the not very kid-friendly) Schindler’s Factory, in an industrial area devoid of trees, this family restaurant offers everything the new nearby park failed to; namely a playground, space for your kids to run around, and even food that they’ll eat. The seasonal patio is huge, with enough room for lawn games, picnics, a playground and sandbox that will give weary parents a chance to really take a break and relax. The menu of standard Polish and European fare may not be inspired (pierogi, burgers, pasta, ribs), but its affordable (weekday lunch specials for 19zł), and kids get their own separate card. Perfect for family get-togethers and play dates, they even have plenty of their own parking.QM‑9, ul. Zabłocie 13, tel. (+48) 509 21 50 38, www.zablocie13.pl. Open 11:0021:30. €€. TBL 50 Kraków In Your Pocket

The awe-inspiring Neo-Gothic St. Joseph’s Church Podgórze’s primary house of worship - was built between 1905-09 to the design of Jan Sas-Zubrzycki. Dominated by an 80m clock tower, elaborate masonry dressing, gargoyles and sculptures of saints, St. Joseph’s slender, yet imposing brick facade rates among the most beautiful in Kraków and is gorgeously illuminated at night. The interior is no less beautiful and the area behind the church has been turned into a small landscape park featuring benches and tables, a play area for young children, and the 1832 belfry - all that remains of the original temple.QK/L‑10, Rynek Podgórski.

Podgórze PLAC BOHATERÓW GETTA First plotted out in 1836, this public square just across the river from the Powstańców Śląskich bridge has had a turbulent history, with turns as a marketplace, horse stable, execution site, taxi rank and bus terminal over the years. During the time of the Kraków Ghetto it was at once the source of the residents’ greatest relief and also the scene of their greatest horrors and humiliation. As the ghetto’s largest open space, Plac Zgody was a place for people to socialise, relax and escape the oppressive overcrowding of the tenements. It was also the site of families being torn apart, mass deportations to the death camps, beatings and executions. Following deportations and the final liquidation of the ghetto, Plac Zgody was strewn with furniture, clothes, luggage and other belongings that the victims had been forced to abandon - this image would later inspire the redesign of the square. Though after the war the name of Plac Zgody was changed to Plac Bohaterów Getta (Ghetto Heroes Square) and a small monument was erected, the space’s historical significance never felt more pertinent than its post-war use as a public toilet or parking lot. Finally, after decades of neglect, Plac Bohaterów Getta was renovated in 2005, sparking significant controversy over the design. Laid out with 70 large well-spaced metal chairs meant to symbolise departure, as well as subsequent absence, the entire square has essentially been turned into an odd, but iconic memorial to the victims of the Kraków Ghetto. A place for candles and reflection was created in the former German guardhouse at the north end of the square, however the gesture rings hollow considering the space is always locked.QL‑9. EAGLE PHARMACY When the Nazis created the Jewish ghetto in Podgórze in 1941, this pharmacy and its Polish owner Tadeusz Pankiewicz found themselves at the very heart of it. Deciding to stay, Pankiewicz and his staff were the only Poles allowed to live and work in the ghetto and over the two years of the ghetto’s existence, their pharmacy became an important centre of social life, resource for acquiring food, medicine and falsified documents and a safehouse for avoiding deportations. Pankiewicz (recognised today as ‘Righteous Among the Nations’) and his staff risked their lives in many clandestine operations while bearing witness to tragedy through the windows of the pharmacy as the ghetto and its 15,000 inhabitants were ultimately ‘liquidated.’ Today the building is a museum, recreated to look as it did during Nazi occupation, which heartrendingly describes life in the Kraków Ghetto via first-hand testimonials and hands-on displays that create a very intimate visiting experience. Though only 5 rooms, set aside at least an hour for visiting this excellent museum.QL‑10, Pl. Bohaterów Getta 18, tel. (+48) 12 656 56 25, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Mon 10:00-14:00. Closed 2nd Tue of every month. Admission 11/9zł, family ticket 20zł. Mon free. Y

THE JEWISH GHETTO Before World War II Kraków was an important cultural centre for approximately 65,000 Jews – one quarter of the city’s total population. Following German occupation in September 1939, persecution of the Jewish community began almost immediately as their liberties were systematically restricted leading up to the Nazi order in April 1940 to turn Kraków into a “Jew-free city,” after which more than 50,000 Jews were forcibly deported to labour camps in the east. In March 1941 the Nazi government decreed the establishment of a new ‘Jewish Housing District’ on the right bank of the Wisła River in Podgórze. The ‘Kraków Ghetto’ initially comprised an approximately 20 hectare (50 acre) space of some 320 mostly one- and two-story buildings in Podgórze’s historic centre, surrounded by a 3 metre high wall (remnants of which can still be seen today). 3,000 residents were removed from the area, replaced by some 16,000 Jews whose property and possessions were confiscated with the exception of what they could carry. Thousands of unregistered Jews also entered seeking protection, and in October 1941 a further 6,000 Jews from around Małopolska were forced into the ghetto, bringing its total population to about 24,000, with an average living space of less than 2 metres per person. Following the Wannsee Conference in January 1942, the Nazis began to initiate ‘The Final Solution’ – Hitler’s systematic plan for the annihilation of European Jewry. From late May 1942 brutal round-ups became a regular occurrence in the ghetto with residents shot in the streets and marched under gunpoint from Plac Zgody (today ‘Plac Bohaterów Getta,’) into cattle cars at the Płaszów train station, most of which were bound for the death camp in Bełżec. The territory of the ghetto was gradually reduced by authorities, as those ablebodied enough were commuted daily to work on the construction of the nearby KL Płaszów labour camp. As soon as enough barracks had been built, 6,000 Jews still deemed ‘productive’ by the Nazis were moved to KL Płaszów permanently, and the order for the final liquidation of the Kraków Ghetto was given. March 14th 1943 was the bloodiest day in Podgórze’s history as German troops attempted to herd the remaining residents into transports as chaos reigned. Estimates are that as many as 2,000 people were killed in the streets, and 3,000 left via cattle car directly to the gas chambers in Auschwitz. The Kraków Ghetto disappeared essentially two years after its establishment and the KL Płaszów Concentration Camp was born (read more: iyp.me/plaszow). To learn more about Kraków’s Jewish Ghetto, read our extensive online feature at iyp.me/krakowghetto, and visit the Eagle Pharmacy museum. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Podgórze ZABŁOCIE Once you’ve crossed under the train tracks you’ve entered Zabłocie. Historically an industrial area that arose in the late 19th and early 20th century, many of Zabłocie’s state-run factories closed or stagnated after 1989. Today this is the city’s most rapidly developing neighbourhood as old factories and warehouses are being torn down and replaced with modern apartment complexes and office buildings, or in some cases converted into cultural venues and restaurants, as is the case along ul. Lipowa. Advertised as artsy and cutting-edge (by the realtors of its high-rent apartment buildings), in reality Zablocie is quickly becoming little more than a transit stop for tourists, and an overpopulated housing development full of young families lamenting the lack of trees in the neighbourhood. In addition to Schindler’s Factory, MOCAK is very much worth a visit, but if you aren’t interested in these museums there’s not much reason to investigate the area.

GHETTO WALL FRAGMENTS

UL. LWOWSKA 25-29 In 1983 a commemorative plaque was added to this prominent 12m stretch of the original ghetto wall, which reads in Hebrew and Polish: “Here they lived, suffered and died at the hands of the German torturers. From here they began their final journey to the death camps.”QM‑10. UL. LIMANOWSKIEGO 62 An even longer and arguably more evocative section of the original ghetto wall can ironically be seen in the playground behind the primary school at ul. Limanowskiego 60/62. If you’re fit, climb the steep hill in the back of the playground straight up to the Old Podgórze Cemetery, to the right from which is the abandoned Fort Benedict and Lasota Hill (p.54).QM‑11. 52 Kraków In Your Pocket

LIPOWA 3 GLASS & CERAMICS CENTRE Located directly across from MOCAK, this building has been a glassworks since 1931 and actually flourished during the PRL-era when up to 500 people were employed here under the auspices of not only glass bottle production but also glass art, scientific research and industrial design. During the 1970s, ‘Cracovian glass’ achieved international renown for its bold experimentation with form, colour and texture, and today Lipowa 3 is still used for national glass research and production. The idea of an educational museum showcasing Polish glass and glassblowing technology has actually existed since 1972, with the museum finally opening in 2014. The permanent exhibit includes bilingual displays of historical glass tools and antique glassware, but the highlight is the impressive ‘Cracovian Glass Art Collection’ of contemporary coloured glassware produced here between 1931 and 1998. Live glass-blowing demonstrations occur hourly beginning March 1, and the ground floor includes a shop and a free gallery for rotating exhibits of contemporary glass art.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 3, tel. (+48) 12 423 67 90, www. lipowa3.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00; closed Sun. Admission 18/15zł. Guided tours available in English by prior arrangement, 80zł.

Glass-blowing demonstration in Lipowa 3.

Podgórze MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART (MOCAK) Opened in 2011, Krakow’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK) does not disappoint, capably holding its own with comparable international art institutions. Tucked behind Schindler’s Factory, the building alone will impress with its avant-garde styling and ultra-modern layout. The museum boasts a large and fine permanent collection of modern art highlighting both Polish and international artists, plus a new permanent exhibition space inspired by Warhol’s cult NYC studio known as The Factory. There are also always several provocative temporary exhibitions, and a large cafe and bookshop. Despite the relatively late closing hour, make sure to leave yourself plenty of time to enjoy all the museum has to offer.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 01, www.mocak.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00; closed Mon. Admission 14/7zł, Thu free. Guided tours (115zł + admission) in English and French available, but must be arranged by phone in advance. UY

MOCAK

KRZEMIONKI In contrast, if you’re looking for more of an active outdoor adventure exploring Kraków’s less tourist-trampled territory, Krzemionki is for you. This scenic upshot of limestone cliffs rises above Old Podgórze and extends south all the way past Krakus Mound to the haunting grounds of Płaszów - the former Nazi concentration camp (more on Płaszów at iyp.me/plaszow). One could enjoy an entire day just exploring the breadth of Bednarski Park, but for intrepid tourists we highly recommend trekking to the area of Lasota Hill (p.54) and then beyond it to Krakus Mound (p.54) and Liban Quarry (p.55). A bike won’t help you here; ditch it on ul. Rękawka and take the rocky dirt trail just past ul. Krakusa, which leads up into the woods. This will lead you straight to Lasota Hill and to complete your urban hike all the way to Krakus Mound and back you’ll probably want to set aside a couple hours. Packing some food would be wise since there won’t be any opportunities to buy anything en route. And if you really do it right you’ll be enjoying panoramic views of the sun setting behind the Old Town while cracking a victory beer atop the Mound. Congrats, and cheers.

SCHINDLER’S FACTORY

In 2010, the Oskar Schindler Enamelled Goods Factory (to give it its full name) re-opened to the public as a world-class museum. The story of Oskar Schindler and his employees is one which has been well-known since Steven Spielberg’s film Schindler’s List (which was shot almost entirely in Kraków) brought it to audiences across the world in 1993, and while that story is covered in detail on the original site where many events took place, the museum actually casts the city of Kraków in the main role of its permanent exhibition titled, ‘Kraków During Nazi Occupation 1939-1945.’ Individual histories of Kraków’s wartime inhabitants guide visitors through the exhibit which covers the war of 1939, everyday life under occupation, the fate of the Jews, the city’s underground resistance and more, using vast archival documents, photos, radio and film recordings, period artefacts and dynamic multimedia installations. Other exhibits change regularly (currently about the underground activities of the Polish Home Army), while a separate section of the original factory is reserved for film screenings, lectures and other events. A must-visit, Schindler’s Factory is one of the most fascinating museums in the entire country and we recommend you reserve at least two hours if you want to see everything. Tickets can be bought online three or more days in advance (www.bilety.mhk.pl), which we strongly recommend, because visitor numbers are controlled and you could be disappointed if the museum is too busy. In fact, groups over 15 people are obliged book in advance. To get to the museum take a tram to Pl. Bohaterów Getta (L-9) and it’s a 5-10 minute walk down ul. Kącik, under the train overpass, onto ul. Lipowa and you’re there.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 17, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 09:00-20:00; Mon 09:00-16:00. 1st Monday of each month open 09:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 1.5hrs before closing. Admission 24/18zł, family ticket 55zł. Mon free for permanent exhibitions. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Podgórze

Fort Benedict

LASOTA HILL Lasota Hill refers to the section of Krzemionki east of Bednarski Park, and home to Podgórze’s richest residences along the picturesque villa-lined lanes of ul. Parkowa, Plac Lasota and ul. Stawarza. Follow ul. Stawarza to its end - or alternatively venture up any of the forrested and slightly foreboding trails off of ul. Rękawka (our preferred route) - and you’ll soon inexplicably end up at the top of the hill in a strange meadow. Once a popular site for pagan worship, St. Benedict’s Church was built here in the 11th century specifically to put a frowny face on such practices. One of the city’s oldest churches, it is certainly the smallest. The second primary point of interest here is Fort Benedict, the only surviving fortress of three that were built in Podgórze in the mid-19th century; in fact this is one of the few citadels of the ‘Maximillion Tower’ type surviving anywhere. An imposing brick monolith in the shape of a 16-sided polygon, today the fort stands abandoned with its future uncertain. Though you can certainly scramble through the fence to explore it up close, we’re sure you’ll find (like we did) that this fort is indeed impenetrable. It was on Lasota Hill that one of the most powerful scenes from Schindler’s List was filmed, in which Schindler (played by Liam Neeson) and his wife are on horseback when they stop here and witness the horror taking place during a Nazi round-up in the Jewish Ghetto below. This scene serves as the turning point for Schindler’s character as he focuses in on the ‘girl in the red coat’ - the otherwise black and white film’s most powerful visual device. Though in summer the trees are a bit too lush, in winter Lasota Hill does indeed offer semi-decent views of Podgórze, Kazimierz and the Old Town from its ridge. Look away from the centre and you’ll see Krakus Mound looming in the distance; actually closer than it looks, you’re only about a 20min walk away and the effort is worth it. Alternatively, follow the trail east between the church and fortress and you’ll find the Old Podgórze Cemetery, across from which a segment of the original Ghetto Wall still stands in the playground of a public school.QM‑10/11. 54 Kraków In Your Pocket

KRAKUS MOUND The oldest structure in Kraków, Krakus Mound (Kopiec Krakusa) is one of two prehistoric monumental mounds in the city and is also its highest point, providing incredible panoramic views from its 16m summit. The site of pagan rituals for centuries, the mound retains an ancient, evocative atmosphere amplified by the surroundings of the cliffs of Krzemionki, the green rolling fields of Płaszów, the grim Liban quarry and the Podgórze cemetery. With incredible views of the city, Krakus Mound lies at the centre of one of Kraków’s least explored and most captivating areas and should be visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding detour from the beaten path. It can be approached most easily from the ‘Powstańców Wielkopolskich’ tram stop via ul. Robotnicza to the steps of al. Pod Kopcem (M-11), or by following ul. Dembowskiego (L/M-11) to the pedestrian bridge over al. Powstańców Wielkopolskich to the base of the mound. The result of great human effort and innovative engineering, Krakus Mound has long been a source of legend and mystery. Connected with the legend of Kraków’s mythical founder, King Krak or Krakus, the mound is said to have been constructed in honour of his death when noblemen and peasants filled their sleeves with sand and dirt, bringing it to this site in order to create an artificial mountain that would rule over the rest of the landscape. In the interwar period, extensive archaeological studies were undertaken to try to date the mound and verify if Krak was indeed buried beneath it. Though no grave was found, 8th century artefacts were uncovered, and it was determined that a massive 300-year-old oak, likely cut down in the 11th century when St. Benedict’s Church (M-10) was built nearby, once stood atop the mound. Originally four smaller mounds surrounded the base of Krakus mound, however these were levelled in the mid-19th century during the construction of the city’s first fortress which surrounded the area with a wall embankment and a moat (later levelled in 1954). The legend of Krakus Mound inspired the modern creation of burial mounds for Kościuszko and Piłsudski and today it remains one of Poland’s greatest archaeological mysteries.QM‑12, above ul. Maryewskiego.

Krakus Mound

Podgórze LIBAN QUARRY One of the creepiest, most forgotten places in Kraków, the Liban Quarry should first and foremost be a place of remembrance for the victims of the Nazi labour camp that operated here during WWII. That said, the site - which largely lies in overgrown abandon today - offers adventurous visitors some intriguing opportunities for exploration, photography, and personal reflection. Left to slowly evolve into a nature sanctuary for local waterfowl, pheasants, birds of prey and various other creatures, the quarry’s towering limestone cliffs, ponds and dense vegetation are as breathtaking as the rusting refinery equipment, fence posts, gravestones and tangles of barbed wire (be careful!) that can still be found amongst the brush here. The Jewish limestone company ‘Liban and Ehrenpreis’ established a quarry here in 1873, and by the end of the 19th century a complex of buildings had been established inside and a railway line had been laid. During Nazi occupation, however, Liban was seized and set-up as a cruel penal camp where 800 Poles were forced to perform gruelling slave labour from 1942 to 1944. A small, discreet and easily overlooked memorial for 21 inmates executed during the liquidation of the camp lies beside the cliffside at the Za Torem end of the site.

PŁASZÓW

While hundreds of tourists use Kraków as a jumpingoff point for visiting Auschwitz, few realise that Kraków actually had a concentration camp in its own backyard. Deep in Podgórze, a large the tract of land behind Krakus Mound goes undeveloped and largely unvisited, despite being in one of the city’s most desirable commercial and residential areas. This is the former site of ‘Konzentrationslager Plaszow bei Krakau’ - the Nazi German concentration camp in Płaszów, today a wild, uneven expanse of dirt, grass, weeds and stone, which until recently gave little indication of its own existence, let alone the story of its wartime history. If you think you aren’t familiar with this story, you probably are. It was here that many of the real-life events Steven Spielberg’s blockbuster film Schindler’s List took place. While Schindler’s factory opened to the public as a museum in 2010 (p.53), the site of the former Płaszów concentration camp has remained largely in the same state it was left by the Nazis when they abandoned it over 70 years ago. In contrast to Auschwitz there are no professional tour guides here, few informative displays and little suggestion for how to experience the space.

In 1993 Steven Spielberg used Liban as the set of all the scenes from Schindler’s List that take place in the Płaszów concentration camp. During filming 34 barracks and watchtowers were set-up around the quarry, and though most of the set was subsequently removed, some traces remain confusingly mixed with the genuine historical leftovers from the war, making it unclear just how uncomfortable you should feel as you walk amongst the rusty machinery and gallows-like fence posts - some still strung with barbed wire. Certainly, the most disturbing site is the central pathway paved with Jewish headstones; we can put you at ease by assuring you they are not genuine. An incredibly evocative, yet peaceful and beautiful site, enter the quarry at your own risk by following a trail from Krakus Mound toward Podgórze Cemetery along the rim of and into the quarry, or try your luck from ul. Za Torem; though there is nothing unlawful about being in the quarry, city employees of the Housing Office buildings at the quarry’s entrance have been known to deny entry or ask people to leave.QM‑12, ul. Za Torem.

Somewhere in the neighbourhood of 150,000 prisoners were interred in this 80 hectare prison camp, and the number who perished here is actually impossible to know, but it is certainly in the tens of thousands. Open to the public but a challenge to access, those intrepid enough to make the journey will still find a few war-era buildings, several memorials and some scattered Jewish tombstones. Since November 2017 an outdoor exhibit of archival photographs with brief historical information now also offers visitors some clues about the camp’s layout. More of a pilgrimage than a destination, Płaszów rewards those who walk its obscure paths with the opportunity to engage the past without any pressure or pretence. This is the most horrific place in Kraków; and the most peaceful. More than we can possibly cover here, to learn about Płaszów’s history, what to see and how to get there, read our exhaustive online feature.Qiyp.me/plaszow. krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Nowa Huta As intended, the colourless concrete conurbation of Nowa Huta is the direct antithesis of Kraków’s Old Town. Ornate architecture, cobbled lanes and tourist crowds? Not here. One of only two entirely pre-planned socialist realism cities ever built (the other being Magnitogorsk in Russia’s Ural Mountains), this Orwellian encampment is one of the finest examples of deliberate social engineering in the world. For tourists, but also for Poles, a visit is akin to traveling back in time to the communist era in Poland. Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed up a huge swathe of ideal agricultural land, and the ancient village of Kościelniki (as well as parts of Mogiła and Krzesławice) in an attempt to create an in-your-face proletarian opponent to intellectual, artsy-fartsy, fairytale Kraków. Designed for 100,000 people, work began in June 1949, and over the next few years the construction of the city took place at breakneck speed as volunteers from across Poland flocked to take part in the bold project. Built to impress, Nowa Huta features wide, tree-lined avenues, parks, lakes and the officially sanctioned architectural style of the time - Socialist Realism. Nowa Huta’s architects strove to construct the ideal city, with ironic inspiration coming from the neighbourhood blocks built in 1920s New York (that despicable western metropolis). Careful planning was key, and the suburb was designed with ‘efficient mutual control’ in mind: wide streets would prevent the spread of fire and the profusion of trees would easily soak up a nuclear blast, while the layout was such that the city could easily be turned into a fortress if it came under attack, including enough underground bunkers to shelter the entire population. The citizens of this proletariat paradise would take meaning from their daily work contributions in the ‘Lenin Steelworks,’ of course. As with the entire city of Nowa Huta, the reasons for building a steel mill here were mostly ideological, since local demand for steel was small, coal had to be brought in from Silesia, and iron ore had to be impractically transported from the Soviet Union. Nonetheless, in its heyday the Steelworks was capable of producing seven million tonnes of steel annually, boasted the largest blast furnace in Europe, and employed some 40,000 people. As monumental as residential Nowa Huta may seem, it pales in comparison to the 1000 hectare Steelworks complex, which boasts multi-storey melting ladles and halls large enough to fit Krakow’s market square several times over. Officially called ‘ArcelorMittal Poland’ today, the Steelworks still employs about 3500, but doesn’t play the central role in the life of the district it once did.

GETTING TO NOWA HUTA Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram network. Tram 73 from ‘Teatr Słowackiego’ (near the train station, K-4) goes straight to Plac Centralny (R-3) in about 20mins.

‘Włodzimierz Lenin’ striding across Plac Centralny in the 1970s.

WHAT TO SEE Jump off a tram at the ‘Plac Centralny’ stop, and find yourself at the very nucleus of Nowa Huta. From 1973 to 1989 an enormous monument of Vladimir Lenin (pictured) towered over the citizens of Nowa Huta at the north end of Plac Centralny. Dismantling it after the fall of communism was an important act of symbolism, which turned to comic irony in 2004 when the square he stood on - and which was once named after Joseph Stalin - was officially renamed ‘Ronald Reagan Central Square.’ Speak to any local, however, and it’s ‘Plac Centralny’ - a walk around which will bring you to several points of interest, including the iconic Markiza neon sign, and Cepelix folk art shop. Just south of the square is the Nowa Huta Cultural Centre - home to food trucks (some of the only eats in the area) and a truly worthwhile exhibit of grotesque, apocalyptic paintings by Polish artist Zdzisław Beksiński. From there it’s easy walking distance to the former Światowid cinema - another social realist stalwart that today houses the fantastic Nowa Huta Museum. Although the area around Plac Centralny serves as the district’s focal point, it’s the Steelworks that Nowa Huta is famous for, not to mention named after. Found at the end of al. Solidarności the entrance is flanked by two austere concrete buildings which represent the pinnacle of socialist realism architecture in PL. These are the former Administrative Buildings - the only part of the complex currently open to visitors. If you’re the type who loves trespassing in abandoned buildings, or alternative tourism, make the arrangements to get inside. Similarly, the Nowa Huta Underground project is now making areas of the air-raid shelters beneath the city accessible to tourists; go underground near the picturesque Nowa Huta Reservoir (U-2), or in the cellars of the Nowa Huta Museum. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Nowa Huta PLAC CENTRALNY The centre of Nowa Huta’s architectural layout, Plac Centralny (Central Square) is the district’s primary landmark and one of socialist realism’s highest architectural achievements, despite never being completed. The two main structures of the square were to be the towering Town Hall (resembling a mini PKiN) at the northern end and a colonnaded theatre at the southern end, with an obelisk in between; though the designs were in place, none saw development. Similarly, the grand promenade linking them - Aleja Róż (Roses Avenue, S-1/2) - was never fully realised, and terminates after a mere four blocks, making it a fine example of your typical Stalinist ‘road to nowhere.’ While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings lining the way, you’ll find several curiosities. Don’t miss the ‘Markiza’ neon sign at the corner of os. Centrum A and al. Jana Pawła II (S-3); though the cake shop it advertised is long gone, the sign stands out as the area’s most nostalgic memento from the PRL era. Perhaps the most timeless shop in Nowa Huta is Cepelix (os. Centrum B bl.1, S-3; open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-13:00, closed Sun). Specialising in Polish folk art and design, this amazing gift shop is like none other thanks to the original 50s interior featuring long chandeliers and a white coffer ceiling covered in colourful hand-painted ceramic plates. The character of this place hasn’t changed a bit and as such it’s a great place to buy sheepskins, lacework, famous Bolesławiec pottery, and even Nowa Huta souvenirs. Nearby on Aleja Róż you’ll find a typical milk bar (bar mleczny), one of the Soviet era worker cafeterias which still thrive in the district. If you think that can’t be topped, only a few doors down Aleja Róż behold the hideously outdated interiors of the famous Stylowa Restaurant - one of the only places to eat in NH that isn’t a milk bar; once one of the most exclusive restaurants in town, this place carries on in the same spirit as the day it opened with an interior that has hardly changed over the years. In between these two throwbacks, however you’ll find Good Lood - Kraków’s best ice cream parlour - a requisite stop and well-earned reward for trekking around Nowa Huta.QR‑3.

The coffered ceiling in Cepelix.

58 Kraków In Your Pocket

ZDZISŁAW BEKSIŃSKI GALLERY One of PL’s most internationally recognised and controversial 20th century painters, Zdzisław Beksiński is known for his large, almost luminous, and emotionally-charged canvases depicting grotesque figures and apocalyptic landscapes. The themes of war, ruin, decay and deformity are prevalent throughout his work, which has been described as both ‘fantastical realism’ and ‘dystopian surrealism;’ we’d call it something of a cross between H.R. Giger and Francis Bacon. One of the most worthwhile things to see in Nowa Huta, this stunning collection of 50 paintings in the Nowa Huta Cultural Centre features some of his most definitive work, perfectly presented in a dark room on black walls, where the only light is directly on the art itself. If you find yourself completely fascinated by Beksiński, his life and family are the subject of the excellent 2016 film Ostatnia Rodzina (The Last Family).QR‑3, Al. Jana Pawła II 232, tel. (+48) 12 644 02 66, www.nck.krakow.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Sun 12:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/8zł.

‘Nuclear Threat’ exhibit in the Nowa Huta Museum.

NOWA HUTA MUSEUM Formerly the ‘PRL Museum,’ this large museum inside the former Kino Światowid - a local landmark in socialist realism architecture, completed in 1957 - is now a branch of the Museum of Kraków (hence the name change). Though still primarily occupied with the communist era, the museum is now more broadly dedicated to the life and culture of Nowa Huta both today and yesterday. The current temporary exhibit, ‘przeMieszczanie: Nowohucianin,’ concentrates on contemporary residents of Nowa Huta and their personal connections to the district. The former cinema’s vast cellars hold the intriguing exhibit ‘Nuclear Threat: Shelters of Nowa Huta’ - part of the Nowa Huta Underground project (a second branch is located at Os. Szkolnym 37, U-2). The largest of some 250 such shelters beneath NH, here you’ll learn about the very organised and intricate plan Poland had for dealing with a potential nuclear attack during the Cold War, and the role every citizen would play in such an event. If you’re from the West, it’s akin to mild culture shock. Within easy walking distance from Plac Centralny, if you’ve made the trip out to NH there’s no reason not to make a stop here. With plenty of exhibition space over three levels, it’s worth noting that a visit can easily occupy several hours.QS‑3, Os. Centrum E 1, tel. (+48) 12 446 78 21, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/8zł. Tue free.

Nowa Huta

The dystopian surrealist visions of Zdzisław Beksiński.

NOWA HUTA UNDERGROUND: NEW STATE OF EMERGENCY There are over 250 shelters hidden beneath the streets and buildings of Nowa Huta - large enough to accommodate every single resident in the district. Built in the 1950s, these shelters were meant to protect the population in the event of an air raid, nuclear war, or other cataclysmic event precipitated by the outbreak of World War III - a very real threat during the Cold War. Though their effectiveness in a nuclear event has always been dubious, these shelters gave residents a false sense of security and also served as an effective tool for the administration in the propaganda war with the West. The Museum of Kraków is now making some of these underground shelters open to the public as part of the Nowa Huta Underground project - a branch of which is located here under the Mechanical School (another exhibit can be found under the Nowa Huta Museum; tickets are good for both). Occupying 124m2, this exhibit, titled ‘State of Emergency,’ takes a more global view of the topic by introducing some of the most interesting shelters in the world, and exploring the human instinct to hide from danger.QU‑2, Os. Szkolnym 37, tel. (+48) 12 446 78 21, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open Tue, Sat, Sun only 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 11/8zł; Tue free. ADMINISTRATIVE BUILDINGS OF THE SENDZIMIR STEELWORKS While the monumental Plac Centralny is the face Nowa Huta turns to the public, its true socialist realism glory piece is the Administrative Centre of the Steelworks - the palatial monstrosities flanking the main entrance gate to the complex. Built in 1952-55 to the design of two Janusz’s - Ballenstadt and Ingarten - these twin architectural monuments are crowned with a Renaissance comb attic and represent the most exquisite example of socialist realism in Poland. Though the rest of the massive compound of

the former Lenin Steelworks is off-limits to tourists, parts of these long abandoned administrative buildings can now be toured with a guide. You’ll be amazed at the grandeur and condition of these buildings - not only are they perfectly preserved, but they look as if the workers might be back tomorrow. The route takes you into the main lobby of one building, through offices, and massive conference rooms where you’ll see magnificent marble staircases, enormous chandeliers, coffered ceilings and 50s decor - before heading underground into labyrinthine passageways to a secret command post filled with nuclear fallout maps, emergency communication equipment, sleeping cots and more. These subterranean passages connect the two administration buildings, both of which you get to explore during the 1.52hr tour. Tours are available in English, Polish, Russian, Spanish and French, but need to be arranged in advance by phone or via online form. The guides are incredibly knowledgeable and this experience is absolutely recommended. To get there take tram 73 to the ‘Kombinat’ stop. Qul. Ujastek 1, tel. (+48) 79 160 58 79, www.fundacjanh.org. Guided tours only, 25zł per person.

Inside the Administration Buildings of the Steelworks.

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Museums

In the case of a nuclear attack, head to the shelter beneath the Nowa Huta Museum (p.58).

There’s no better place to learn about Polish history, culture and character than Kraków’s museums, some of which should be on every tourist itinerary. To find out about current temporary exhibits visit our What’s On section (p.12) or use our app (iyp.me/app). Note that Kraków’s former synagogues - which today operate as museums - can be found in the Kazimierz section (p.40), while the extensive exhibits at Wawel can be found beginning on p.36. For a full directory of Museums, visit our website. 19TH CENTURY POLISH ART GALLERY This magnificent and historic exhibition inside the Cloth Hall covers 19th century Polish art and its major trends of portraiture and epic historical painting. Comprising just four rooms, the museum is refreshingly small, giving proper attention to each piece - some of which are enormous, and all of which are gorgeously framed. Almost everything by Jan Matejko here is rightly considered a national treasure, and the collection also includes works by Jacek Malczewski, Józef Chełmoński and Stanisław Witkiewicz, as well as Władysław Podkowiński’s famous ‘Frenzy’ from 1894. Like a small slice of the Louvre in Kraków, but without the crowds, one of the perks of a visit is access to the magnificent balcony overlooking the market square. Recommended.QI‑5, Cloth Hall, Rynek Główny 3, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 00, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł, family ticket 40zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. 60 Kraków In Your Pocket

ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM Housed in an old monastery, the biggest highlight of the Archaeology Museum may be its beautiful garden (2zł charge if you aren’t visiting the museum) - a great place to relax with fantastic views of Wawel in the distance. As for exhibits, they are a bit dated, but the museum does boast the Zbruch Idol - the only sculpture of a Slavic god in existence anywhere - part of an exhibit on the prehistory of Małopolska. Other permanent exhibits include prehistoric pottery, Peruvian artefacts, and ancient Egypt; plus temporary exhibits.QI‑6, ul. Poselska 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 75 60, www.ma.krakow.pl. Open 09:00-15:00; Tue, Thu 09:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00; closed Sat. Admission 12/7zł. Sun free for permanent exhibitions. N

Frenzy; 19th Century Polish Art Gallery

Museums BISHOP ERAZM CIOŁEK PALACE This early 14th century palace is one of the most outstanding buildings in Kraków; in fact, at the time it was built, the palace was second in splendour to only Wawel itself. Thoroughly restored, today it is one of the most modern and impressive branches of the Kraków National Museum, housing three permanent exhibitions: Kraków Within Your Reach, Art of Old Poland from the 12th to 18th Centuries, and Orthodox Art of the Old Polish Republic. The first is a basement repository of local architectural sculpture fragments, while the latter two consist almost entirely of sacral art from before the idea of ‘art’ was applied to non-religious subject matter (how many centuries did that take?). Most of it came directly out of Kraków’s own churches or others in the region, and is admittedly superb, if that’s your thing. If not, you’ll likely still find yourself impressed by the surroundings and highquality displays.QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 17, tel. (+48) 12 433 59 20, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00-16:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. U CRICOTEKA Tadeusz Kantor (1915-1990) was an avant-garde artist, theatre director, set designer and a major figure in 20th century theatre reform, known for his revolutionary theatre productions. In 1980 he created ‘Cricoteka’ as a ‘living archive’ to document his achievements with his theatre company Cricot 2. In 2014, Cricoteka opened its new headquarters on the site of the former Podgórze power station, with the aim of better presenting his work and its impact on modern art and theatre. The building itself is an apparent homage to his experimental approach, literally hovering above the existing buildings with a bizarre facade of rusted metal and black mirror. Combined with the original buildings, the multifunctional site hosts an exhibition space, archive, theatre hall and bookshop, and much of its programme involves happenings, performances, workshops and other live events (check online). As a museum, it’s difficult to recommend to those who aren’t already familiar with Kantor, or fans of alienating, experimental theatre. Temporary exhibits show art inspired by Kantor’s ideas, while the permanent exhibit shows the evolution of Kantor’s increasingly eccentric career via stage props he created (including lots of creepy mannequins) and video footage. Free tablets with English-language info are available for visitors at the ticket desk. Whether it all resonates is purely a matter of personal taste, as public opinion is notably divided.QL‑9, ul. Nadwiślańska 2, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 70, www.news.cricoteka.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibits free, temporary exhibitions 15/10zł (family ticket available). Tue free. EAGLE PHARMACY See p.51.QL‑10, Pl. Bohaterów Getta 18, www. muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Mon 10:0014:00. Closed 2nd Tue of every month. Admission 11/9zł, family ticket 20zł. Mon free.

ART GALLERIES

Palace of the Arts

If you’re looking for the best spaces for contemporary art in Poland’s cultural capital, check out the galleries below, but also don’t miss Podgórze’s MOCAK (p.53), or the Zdzisław Beksiński Gallery in Nowa Huta (p.58). BUNKIER SZTUKI GALLERY OF CONTEMPORARY ART One of the few very modern buildings in the Old Town, the concrete carbuncle known as the ‘Art Bunker’ is hands-down Kraków’s best contemporary art gallery. Changing exhibitions are held over three floors, exhibition catalogues are sold in the small mezzanine bookshop and the ground floor Bunkier Cafe (p.92) offers good food and one of the city’s biggest beer terraces.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 3A, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 52, www.bunkier.art.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, family ticket 20zł. INTERNATIONAL CULTURAL CENTRE (MCK) Temporary art exhibitions spotlighting foreign visionaries, cities or cultures typically fill this major gallery on the market square. See our What’s On section for info about the current exhibit (p.14). There is also a library specialising in art and culture publications.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 25, tel. (+48) 12 424 28 11, www.mck. krakow.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission to the gallery 12/7zł, family ticket available. Tue, Wed between 10:00 and 11:00 admission 1zł. PALACE OF THE ARTS (PAŁAC SZTUKI) Built as the seat of the Friends of the Fine Arts Society in 1901, this gorgeous edifice was Kraków’s first Art Nouveau building. Gold bas-reliefs by Jacek Malczewski the famed ‘Father of Polish Symbolism’ - depict the highs and lows of the creative process, busts of Poland’s most famous contributors to the arts fill niches in the facade, and the head of Apollo crowns the entrance. Today the Palace of the Arts remains one of the most prestigious exhibition spaces in town, with regularly changing exhibits of contemporary art.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 66 16, www.palac-sztuki.krakow.pl. Open 08:15-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00. Admission 10/5zł. N krakow.inyourpocket.com

Museums KOŚCIUSZKO MOUND

History produces few men like Tadeusz Kościuszko (1746-1817). Having fought with distinction in the American War of Independence before inspiring the valiant Kościuszko Insurrection against foreign rule in Poland, this relentless freedom-fighter was described by Thomas Jefferson as ‘the purest son of liberty that I have ever known.’ Upon his passing, such was the people’s love that they proposed to honour him with a monument in the tradition of the prehistoric mounds of King Krak (p.54) and Wanda - and to make it the grandest in Kraków. Artefacts from Kościuszko’s life including soil from his many battlefields - were placed atop the chosen site, Bronisława Hill in Zwierzyniec; after a Catholic mass, friends, statesmen and foreign dignitaries gave speeches and dumped the first wheelbarrows of dirt. For the next three years people of all ages brought soil from their villages to add to the burial mound. Though a committee was formed for its oversight, the work was all done voluntarily. Officially completed in November 1823, Kościuszko Mound today stands 34m high, 326m above sea level, and on a clear day the Tatra Mountains can be seen from the top. In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities built a brick fortress around the Mound, which they used as a strategic lookout point. The Germans later threatened to level the entire site during WWII as they set about destroying all Polish national symbols (along with 3 million Polish Jews). Though parts of the fortress were destroyed, the complex has been restored and significant engineering improvements have been made to ensure its longevity. Climbing to the peak is tiring work, but the panoramic views are a worthwhile reward. The surrounding fortifications also house several small historical exhibits (included in admission to the Mound), a chapel, two cafes, a radio station, and restaurant. To get there take trams 1 or 6 to ‘Salwator,’ from which it’s a lovely 1.6km walk up ul. Św Bronisława. It’s all uphill though, so if you’re awaiting a hip replacement you might want to take bus 100 from there to the top instead. Or a cab from the Old Town is about 30zł. QA‑7, Al. Waszyngtona 1, tel. (+48) 12 425 11 16, www.kopieckosciuszki.pl. Open 09:00 until roughly sunset; check online for exact hours. Admission 14/10zł, family ticket available. Y 62 Kraków In Your Pocket

ENGINEERING MUSEUM Located inside a late 19th century tram depot you’ll find the large and charming Engineering Museum. Home to multiple permanent and temporary exhibits, what you’ll currently find is a hangar full of historical trams and trolleys; the fun, kid-friendly ‘It’s So Simple’ interactive exhibit full of brainteasers, building blocks and basic mechanics; ‘More Light!’, an exhibition devoted to lightbulbs and street lamps; and the Classics of Technology mini-exhibit series focusing mostly on telecommunication. More fun than it sounds and recommended for families, check their website to see what else is on.QK‑9, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 15, tel. (+48) 12 428 66 44, www.mimk.com.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Tue 09:00-16:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł. Family tickets available. Tue free for permanent exhibitions. U

Courtesy of Ethnographic Museum

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM Founded in 1911 inside Kazimierz’s former Town Hall, this often overlooked museum offers wonderful and charming insight into Polish folk culture and rural traditions, including beautiful recreations of 19th-century peasant interiors, folk costumes and instruments, and extraordinary examples of local nativity cribs (‘szopki’). A new exhibit called ‘Od-nowa’ (Anew) focusses on rural rituals of spring in Poland (painted Easter eggs and palms), while ‘Unattainable Earth’ guides visitors through hundreds of works of folk art via the words of Czesław Miłosz (taken from his poem of the same name). With exhibits sufficiently explained in English, those that visit here will be happily rewarded. Dom Esterki - a separate gallery for changing exhibits - can also be found nearby at ul. Krakowska 46.QK‑9, Pl. Wolnica 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 60 23, www.etnomuzeum.eu. Open 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 13/7zł, Sun free for permanent exhibitions. U GALICIA JEWISH MUSEUM See p.46.QL‑8, ul. Dajwór 18, www.galiciajewishmuseum. org. Open 10:00-18:00. Admission 16/11zł, family ticket 30zł, children under 7 free. U

Museums HOME ARMY MUSEUM This beautifully restored 3-floor red-brick railway building has been adapted (including a gorgeous glass atrium) to house the Home Army Museum - documenting the size, organisation and efforts of Poland’s underground military resistance from the time of the failed September campaign of 1939 to the underground armed forces official disbanding in 1945. The Home Army’s continuing fight for freedom within the country’s two occupied zones (Nazi and Soviet) is one of World War II’s less acknowledged aspects, and though this enormous museum goes to great length to demonstrate that Poland’s government, military and civilian population never surrendered, the sprawling exhibits are confusing and chaotically organised; as a result you may want to dish out the 150zł, plus ticket price, for a guided tour (make sure to book at least one day in advance - English, German, Italian, French, and Spanish available). Nevertheless it’s a must for those interested in WWII history, and you should reserve at least two hours for visiting.QK‑2, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 12 410 07 70, www.muzeum-ak.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Sat. Admission 16/8zł. Sun free for permanent exhibit. U

Home Army Museum

JAN MATEJKO HOUSE Jan Matejko was Poland’s greatest historical painter whose work and life is honoured in the house where he was born, lived and would eventually die in the 1890s. As well as some witty imaginings of Kraków medieval life, studies for gargoyles, and collections of Renaissance furniture and antique guns and ammo, the minutiae of Matejko’s life is preserved, right down to his eyeglasses in this relatively small museum. A fascinating tribute to a genuine Polish master, and a man of many parts, fans of Matejko should definitely visit the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.60) where many of his greatest works are displayed.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 41, tel. (+48) 12 433 59 60, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00-16:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free for permanent exhibitions.

JOHN PAUL II CENTRE Established to commemorate the legacy of every Pole’s favourite Pope, construction began on this everexpanding complex in 2008, and no final completion date has been established. Located in Łagiewniki, within convenient walking distance of the Sanctuary of Divine Mercy, the ambitious ‘Have No Fear!’ John Paul II Centre (the official name refers to his famous inauguration speech) is essentially a ‘city within the city’ for hosting conferences and accommodating pilgrims. Among the many facilities are a hotel and conference centre, rehabilitation centre, meditation park, Pilgrims’ House and cafe. The primary highlights for visitors are the Sanctuary of Blessed John Paul II - a chapel with relics of the former pope, including a vial of his blood (open 07:30 - 19:00, sanktuariumjp2. pl); the John Paul II Institute - which holds a copy of the Shroud of Turin (open 09:00 - 17:00, free admission); and the John Paul II Museum - which displays the Pope’s personal belongings and rich collection of papal gifts recieved during his world travels (open 09:00 - 17:00; admission 10/6zł; guided tours in English 70zł; archimuzeum.pl). Getting there by public transport is complicated and time consuming, so we suggest just catching a cab or Uber. Qul. Totus Tuus 32 (Łagiewniki), tel. (+48) 12 429 64 71, www.janpawel2.pl. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Museums JÓZEF CZAPSKI PAVILION Opened in April 2016, this modern building behind the HuttenCzapski Palace is dedicated to Józef Czapski - an exiled Polish painter, writer, art critic, intellectual, and grandson of Emeryk Hutten-Czapski (whose famous coin collection is on display 100m away). The small permanent exhibit is a biographical look at his life via video interviews, archival materials and the personal effects he left to the city upon his passing in 1993. Though Czapski may be completely unknown, and his artisticliterary legacy difficult to ascertain, it is his role as a witness to history that makes this museum most worthwhile. Fantastic archival footage (subtitled in English) explains the evolving geopolitical climate in Europe during Czapski’s lifetime, and shape his story into one that represents not one man, but an entire generation of Poles - the educated class that was obliterated in the fields of Katyń and fires of the Warsaw Uprising, or somehow survived only to be exiled or imprisoned by the communist regime that followed WWII. Czapski’s story also reveals the almost disgusting cyclical nature of history and politics, and the destructive folly of nationalism - a lesson as necessary today as ever. Though small, it is easy to spend hours here exploring the multimedia exhibits, or sitting in the cafe. QH‑6, ul. Piłsudskiego 12, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 40, www. mnk.pl. Open 09:00-16:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:0016:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sunday free for permanent exhibitions. Ticket also valid for the Hutten-Czapski Museum. JÓZEF MEHOFFER HOUSE Mehoffer was one of the turn of the 20th century’s artistic elite, a skilled stained-glass artist collaborating with Wyspiański on the interiors of numerous Kraków churches, as well as his own installations across Galicia. This, his house, was where the artists of the Młoda Polska (Young Poland) movement often met and is a delight to visit, filled with elegant furnishings, Art Deco to impressionist-era art and many sketches, designs and finished stained glass pieces that attest to his important artistic legacy. In warmer months you won’t find a more magical place to relax and read a book than the hidden garden behind the house, presided over by Meho Cafe (p.85)- one of the city’s best-kept secrets.QH‑5, ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 80, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00-16:00; Sat 10:0018:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free.

Józef Mehoffer House

64 Kraków In Your Pocket

KRZYSZTOFORY PALACE This 17th century Baroque palace on the market square houses the main branch of the Kraków History Museum, recently renamed the Kraków Museum (Muzeum Krakowa). Established in 1899, the palace has recently undergone an extensive transformation, including the gradual restoration of the entire building and complete digitisation of the museum collection. While parts of the building remain under renovation, the new permanent exhibit is open: Cyberteka. Kraków - Time & Space chronicles the spatial and urban development of the city from its earliest beginnings until about 1915, via spiffy multimedia displays and 3D films (note this exhibit is free on Tues). The ground floor of this market square building is also home to a large museum shop with lots of souvenirs, posters, books and other information available.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 35, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 35, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 10:00-17:30; closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł, family ticket 24zł. LIPOWA 3 GLASS & CERAMICS CENTRE See p.52.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 3, www.lipowa3.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00; closed Sun. Admission 18/15zł. MANGGHA Located across the river from Wawel in Dębniki, The Manggha Museum of Japanese Art & Technology (to use its full name) has many hats - including performance hall, Japanese cultural centre, sushi bar and home to local legend Feliks Jasieński’s fabulous 6,500-piece collection of Japanese artefacts. The exceedingly modern building was funded by legendary Polish film director Andrzej Wajda upon winning the Kyoto city prize in 1987, and 2015 saw the opening of the adjacent European - Far East Gallery, which has doubled the space for temporary exhibits, several of which are on at any given time (check their website for specifics).QH‑8, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267 27 03, www.manggha.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 30/20zł, family ticket 45zł, kids 7-16 1zł, kids under 7 free, Tue free. Guided tours 120zł. MICET (INTERACTIVE THEATRE MUSEUM) This new name-challenged museum in the basements of the Stary Teatr (Old Theatre) presents the theatre’s achievements through a digital archive, pays homage to theatre as a Polish cultural institution, and allows visitors to experience some of the technical aspects of theatrical production. Certainly the most hi-tech museum in Kraków, the whole experience is conducted through interactive apps, touch-screen displays, tablets and other digital exhibits. Your interest in the museum will depend entirely on your willingness to participate in its tech-savvy displays, and your visit necessarily begins with a guide showing you around and explaining how to interact with the exhibits. Using apps at various stations you can compose your own music for a production, change the lighting, sound and music on a stage, or explore a ‘virtual dressing room’ that acquaints you with iconic stage costumes. Perhaps the most challenging is a private room where you’re encouraged to record a video of yourself taking

Museums

The collage In Your Pocket made at MICET.

on a role, which you can then email to yourself. Impressively designed and entirely in English, quite a lot of money was spent on this, from the tablets and Beats headphones to the loads of programming, and a technician is actually on-hand to keep it working smoothly. White, minimal and devoid of objects, it’s all quite soulless considering the subject, and certainly not to all tastes (we saw several couples walk in, get the tour, and then walk right out). But we know of nothing comparable, and for aspiring actors, technicians, set and costume designers and general lovers of theatre, we can’t really imagine anything better.QI‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 75 12, www.micet.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł. U MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART (MOCAK) See p.53.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 4, www.mocak.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00; closed Mon. Admission 14/7zł, Thu free. U NATIONAL MUSEUM, MAIN BUILDING The National Museum has 11 branches in Kraków, with this monolithic structure - apparently built over the course of half a century from 1935 to 1989 - being the main administrative branch and landing spot for the institution’s most ambitious exhibits. Permanent exhibits include the Gallery of Weaponry & Uniforms and Gallery of Decorative Arts, but it’s the consistently excellent temporary exhibits that should lure you here. Currently you’ll find a high-profile exhibit on local son Stanisław Wyspiański (whose epic monument stands outside the entrance) - one of the most important artists of the turn of the 20th century. The main branch also currently exhibits one of the museum’s most cherished treasures - Leonardo da Vinci’s famous oil painting Lady With an Ermine; beloved by locals, the painting is displayed in its own separate room and a separate ticket is required (20/15zł). One of Kraków’s largest museums, you’d be wise to focus on what you’re most interested in; to see it all would take the entire day. The museum also houses a small shop and cafe.QG‑6, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission for all permanent exhibits 10/5zł, family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Admission for first temporary exhibit 20/15zł, family 40zł (includes entry to permanent exhibits); 2nd temporary exhibit 15/10zł, family 30zł. Admission for all exhibits 50/30zł, family ticket 100zł. U krakow.inyourpocket.com

Museums STREET ART

Kazimierz Historical Mural, p.45.

Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with large-scale Polish advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality; anyone who makes the strongly recommended visit to Kraków’s Dydo Poster Gallery (p.115) will easily discover why. With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would have a penchant for street graphics as well. And they do. In Kraków, as in other cities around PL, street art is currently going through a tidal wave of popularity, and in the last few years new street murals have become a common sight around Kraków’s city centre. More restaurants and businesses are turning to street artists to playfully embellish their public spaces, and city authorities have even taken the surprising step of sponsoring some large scale murals around the city centre. In fact, the emergence of street art as a growing and legitimised artistic discipline has created an interesting dichotomy in Kraków’s urban landscape between both sanctioned and unsanctioned works of ‘graffiti art’ and the prolific gang signs, slurs and football-related graffiti that city paint crews have targeted in their war on ‘vandalism.’ At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have little trouble tracking it down in Kraków, and we’re making it even easier. On our maps we’ve marked street art locations with a spray can symbol , so you can literally use them to give yourself a tour of Kraków’s urban art. Not only that, but we’ve also put it all online with GPS coordinates at iyp.me/krakowstreetart so that your smartphone can do the work for you. We encourage you to do just that, and check out some of Kraków’s alternative artistic visions.

ul. Zwierzyniecka (H-6/7)

66 Kraków In Your Pocket

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM If you’ve visited Natural History Museums in London or New York...well, this is Kraków. This small and modestlyfunded (to put it nicely) museum features permanent exhibits on local rocks, minerals, molluscs and fauna that will literally put anyone to sleep. That said, it also plays host to temporary exhibits which generally take up the most space and justify the admission price (currently ‘In the Colourful World of Butterflies’), there are some reptiles (who doesn’t love reptiles?), a 14,000-year-old mammoth skull and the pride of the collection is the world’s only fully preserved (like with skin and stuff ) woolly rhinoceros. You won’t see that anywhere else, and overall younger kids might find this museum more exciting than any others in Kraków.QJ‑7, ul. Św. Sebastiana 9, tel. (+48) 12 422 59 59, www.isez.pan.krakow.pl. Open 09:00-15:00; Sat 12:00-18:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 20/16zł, family ticket 65zł.

Pharmacy Museum

PHARMACY MUSEUM Located inside a wonderful 15th-century building, Kraków’s brilliant Pharmacy Museum is laid out over five floors and includes all manner of exhibits from full-scale reproductions of ancient apothecary shops to some beastly snakes in jars and, on the top floor, a really good display of traditional herbal medicines. Also of note is an exhibit dedicated to the extraordinary and brave Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz, who operated a pharmacy in the Kraków Ghetto during WWII. Overall, this surprising museum is a lot more interesting than it sounds.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 25, tel. (+48) 12 421 92 79, www.muzeum.farmacja.uj.edu. pl. Open 09:30-15:00; Tue 12:00-18:30; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 14/8zł, family ticket 30zł. POLISH AVIATION MUSEUM Located on one of the oldest military airfields in Europe, this oft-overlooked, but highly regarded museum holds a premier collection of aircraft, artefacts and exhibits related not only to Polish, but world aviation history and heritage. The new exhibition building is bursting with interactive displays, historic aircraft, plus a cinema, while the original exhibits in the airfield’s numerous hangars are stuffed with old photographs, engines, uniforms

Museums and plenty more airplanes, helicopters and gliders, while the yards surrounding them are literally littered Russian-built fighter jets from the days of the Warsaw Pact. While many of the displays are in Polish only, this is still a great outing (Dads love it) that can take the most of a day to explore thoroughly. Located in the nomans-land between the city centre and Nowa Huta, to get there take tram 52 from ‘Dworzec Główny’ (K-4) to ‘Muzeum Lotnictwa.’QAl. Jana Pawła II 39 (Czyżyny), tel. (+48) 12 642 87 00, www.muzeumlotnictwa.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/7zł, family ticket 34zł; Tue free. U RYNEK UNDERGROUND This hi-tech and highly popular museum takes visitors four metres under the surface of the market square to explore the medieval merchant stalls that predate today’s Cloth Hall, and experience the city’s entire history - from its first settlers right up today - over the course of 6,000 metres of multimedia exhibits. Because of the museum’s popularity, timed tickets should be bought in advance. This can be done either online or from the info office confusingly located on the opposite side of the Cloth Hall from the museum entrance. The actual museum entrance is located opposite St. Mary’s Basilica, of course, and once you’re inside your experience begins with a short film projected on a wall of smoke, before following the trail of truly remarkable exhibits displayed in what is essentially an archaeological site. Relying heavily on touch-screens and holograms, highlights include a fascinating look into life before Kraków’s market square was laid out, displays on city trade and transport, a fantastic area for kids that includes a performance by automated puppets, and the remains of an 11th-century cemetery replete with ‘vampire prevention burials’ (seriously). Visitors should also reserve time to view the excellent series of short documentaries covering different ages of Krakow’s history at the end of the tour route. In addition to the multilingual displays, audio guides are available in English, German, French, Russian, Italian and Spanish.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Mon 10:00-20:00; Tue 10:00-16:00. Closed 2nd Mon of each month. Last entrance 75mins before closing. Admission 21/18zł, Tue free. Audioguide 5zł. SCHINDLER’S FACTORY See p.53.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 4, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:0020:00; Mon 10:00-16:00. 1st Monday of each month open 09:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 1.5hrs before closing. Admission 24/18zł, family ticket 55zł. Mon free for permanent exhibitions.

Schindler Tours & Tickets http://bit.ly/SchindlersFactory krakow.inyourpocket.com

Museums

Inside the workshop of the Stained Glass Museum

STAINED GLASS MUSEUM Located in S.G. Żeleński’s historic stained glass studio, this ‘living museum’ offers the truly unique opportunity of visiting an active stained glass workshop, where you’ll witness masters at work, learn the artistic process involved in producing large-scale glass installations, and see some superb designs and finished works from throughout the over hundred-year history of the studio. Known as the ‘cradle of Polish stained glass art,’ Żeleński opened this studio in 1902 as a place for the best artists of the Art Nouveau era to meet and work, including such luminaries as Wyspiański and Mehoffer. Many of PL’s most outstanding examples of stained glass were created here, and today the studio remains the largest of its kind in the country. Visiting is only possible with a guide and the approximately 45-min tour is offered hourly in Polish (at :30 past the hour) and English (on the hour); stained glass workshops can also be arranged (in Polish, English, German, French or Italian). The museum also includes a cafe and gift shop where you can pick up beautiful stained glass pieces created on-site. Absolutely worth a visit for fans of the medium, as well as Art Nouveau enthusiasts.QG‑6, Al. Krasińskiego 23, tel. (+48) 512 93 79 79, www.stainedglass.pl. Open 11:3018:00; closed Mon, Sun. Guided tours 35/29zł per person in English; 28/23zł in Polish. SZOŁAYSKI HOUSE This well-located branch of the National Museum offers several temporary exhibits at any given time; check the website for details. On the ground floor is a small free exhibit that honours Kraków’s Grand Dame of poetry Wisława Szymborska by displaying articles collected from her apartment after her passing in 2012. Upstairs, the exhibit ‘Kraków 1900’ (20/15zł) focuses on the artistic atmosphere of the city at the turn of the century, and consists of paintings, sculpture, graphic art, archival photos and everyday objects from the collection of the National Museum. The Tribeca cafe on the ground floor is also a great place to recharge the batteries, and the museum shop offers an array of art books.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 9, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 50, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. U 68 Kraków In Your Pocket

ULICA POMORSKA & FORMER GESTAPO CELLS Consisting of two separate exhibits, Ulica Pomorska offers the most chilling museum experience in Kraków (which is saying something). Located in the Dom Śląski, or ‘Silesian House,’ this infamous building became the Kraków headquarters of the Gestapo during WWII, who converted its cellars into detention cells for the interrogation and torture of political prisoners. These cells have been preserved and are free and open to the public as the ‘Former Gestapo Cells’ - immediately to your right as you enter the courtyard. Though the attendant will encourage you to enter straight away, we recommend you begin with the building’s main exhibit ‘People of Krakow in Times of Terror 1939-1945-1956,’ entered via a staircase in the corner of the courtyard. This ambitious and excellent exhibit takes visitors chronologically through the city’s not-so-distant past, illustrating the terror and tyranny of both the Nazi and Stalinist regimes in Kraków through an abundance of documents, photographs, audio recordings and other archival materials. From the first victims executed by the Nazis to the communist show trials of the mid50s, the stories of individual citizens and their varying experiences and reactions to both regimes is revealed in vivid and sometimes distressing detail.

While the broad, more traditional museum presentation of this history is affecting enough, the immediacy of the Gestapo cells is truly haunting. An unimaginable 600 inscriptions scratched into the walls by prisoners awaiting their fate remain intact and provide a shocking, sobering and undeniable account of the suffering of hundreds of Cracovians during Nazi occupation. As you might expect, there are no fairy-tale endings here, so prepare yourself for the blunt force trauma of human tragedy. A worthwhile and memorable experience, reserve at least 90 minutes for visiting. Ulica Pomorska is a 20min walk from the market square, near the tram stop ‘Plac Inwalidów.’QG‑3, ul. Pomorska 2, tel. (+48) 12 633 14 14, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 10:00-17:30; closed Mon. Admission 9/7zł, family ticket 18zł, Tue free. Admission to Former Gestapo Cells is free.

Museums

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Activities & Experiences If you’re looking for a more alternative way to see and experience Kraków, or simply enjoy letting ‘the pros’ organise your time, check out the local activities below. More online at iyp.me/polandshop

KRAKÓW UNDERGROUND MUSEUM TOUR This guided tour takes you 4 metres below the surface of Kraków’s market square on an interactive journey through 1000 years of the city’s history. Essentially an archaeological site enhanced by multimedia exhibits and the guide’s fascinating stories, take a walk along authentic medieval routes, visit a blacksmith’s workshop, see the foundations of the original Cloth Hall, and an 11th century cemetery. Operated by SeeKrakow, tickets (75/70zł, kids <7 free) are available online or from their office.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 53, tel. (+48) 12 429 44 99, www. seekrakow.com. Open 09:00-21:00.

WOW KRAKOW! HOP ON/OFF BUS See it all at your own pace by hopping on and off this guided bus tour as it zips between 15 essential sites. The bus runs 09:30-19:30, appearing at each stop every 50mins (from May every 30mins). Tickets (60/40zł; kids <12 free) are available online or from the driver at each stop, and also include a gondola ride on the river and free entry to 2 museums. Their evening tour Wow Krakow! By Night shows you the main sites illuminated at night, including panoramic views from Krakus Mound, and concludes with a meal (119zł).QK‑4, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 601 50 21 29, www.wowkrakow.pl.

PICTURES FROM AUSCHWITZ A day trip to Auschwitz is enhanced with this art exhibit most visitors never see. Polish stage designer Marian Kołodziej was imprisoned at Auschwitz from its first days, but miraculously survived to see its liberation. After the war he created a powerful series of sketches entitled ‘Memory Photos. Labyrinths’ as testimony to what he had witnessed. The tour also includes transport, a lunch box and a trip to Auschwitz II (Birkenau). Operated by SeeKrakow, tickets (150/130zł) are available online or from their office. QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 53, tel. (+48) 12 429 44 99, www.seekrakow.com. Open 09:00-21:00. 70 Kraków In Your Pocket

venture! d a n w o r u o y Choose

Poland In Your Pocket Shop

iyp.me/polandshop KRAKOWSKA FALA KAYAK RENTAL Enjoy the sun and scenery on the calm waters of the Wisła River by renting a kayak. This boat station on the river just west of Piłsudski Bridge rents single and double kayaks, plus one canoe and one motorboat. Kayak rentals include paddles and life vests and cost 30zł for the first hour, 10zł for each half hour after that. If you want to get off the main river, the small Wilga tributary is not far from the rental station and perfect for kayaks.QJ‑10, Wisła riverbank near ul. Rybaki, Piłsudski Bridge, tel. (+48) 570 40 30 08, www.kajakrent.pl. Open from approximately midApril 15:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00.

KRAKOW BIKE TOUR Also known as Cool Tour Company, this outfit offers bike rental, bike tours, segway tours and a range of thematic walking tours with entertaining and professional guides. With the exception of segways, no reservations are necessary. Their 4hr English-language bike tours are a great way to see all the sites of the city centre, and leave from their office just off the market square every day at 12:00 (100/90zł). Walking tours leave daily from St. Adalbert’s - the tiny church on the market square - at 10:00 and 14:00 (80/70zł).QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 2, tel. (+48) 12 430 20 34, www.krakowbiketour.com. Open 09:30-20:00.

CARRIAGE RIDES Lined up along the market square, horse-drawn carriage rides are a popular, albeit for some controversial, way to see Kraków. Available every day, rain or shine, from about 10:00 - 22:00, routes and prices are individually determined with the driver, but the popular route from the market square to Wawel Hill is generally 200zł (about 30mins); 500zł if you carry on to Kazimierz. Unfortunately the drivers don’t disseminate any info about what you’re seeing along the way (you’ve got a guidebook for that). Still, it’s many a lady’s dream to be lifted into one of these things, so be prepared. QI‑5, Rynek Główny, www.krakowskiedorozki.pl. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Wieliczka

Worth the 10zł photography fee, the Chapel of St. Kinga is Wieliczka Salt Mine’s crown jewel | Alana de Haan, alanacdehaan.com

Kraków is without a doubt one of the most popular tourist cities in Central Europe, and as you’ve likely heard, one of its top tourist attractions is a salt mine actually located in Wieliczka - a small town about 15km to the southeast. An astounding 1.5 million people visit Wieliczka Salt Mine each year, and it’s hardly a recent phenomenon - people have been visiting the salt mine for literally centuries with notable guests including Nicolaus Copernicus, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Fryderyk Chopin, Pope John Paul II and former US prez Bill Clinton. But it’s not only tourists who come to visit. So deep is the local love for this place that in a city survey, Cracovians voted Wieliczka Salt Mine as their number one favourite thing about Kraków; again, not bad for an attraction in another town 15 km away.

GETTING TO WIELICZKA Getting to Wieliczka is a cinch with the E4 road east out of Kraków leading straight to the Wieliczka exit in about 15mins. Trains leave from Kraków Główny train station about once an hour, with buses running the same route inbetween train times; check malopolskiekoleje. pl for the exact schedule. Journey time is 25-45mins depending on which you choose; tickets cost 3.50zł and can be bought on board. Both drop you off at ‘Wieliczka Rynek Kopalnia,’ from which it’s a short walk to either the Daniłowicza Shaft (Tourist Route) or Regis Shaft (Miners’ Route) where tours begin. 72 Kraków In Your Pocket

One of the most famous attractions in all of Poland, Wieliczka Salt Mine has the distinction of having been included (along with Kraków’s Old Town and Kazimierz districts) on UNESCO’s first-ever World Heritage List back in 1978 (you know, back when being a World Heritage site actually meant something). Needless to say, if you’re visiting Kraków for more than a few days, you should consider a day trip out to Wieliczka. Though tourist agencies will try to convince you otherwise, bear in mind that a trip to Wieliczka does occupy the better part of a day.

WHAT TO SEE Visiting Wieliczka’s underground realm can be done in a number of ways. Most popular is the traditional ‘Tourist Route,’ which leaves from the Daniłowicza Shaft and covers the most impressive parts of the mine, including ancient mining tools and technology, saline lakes, and numerous majestic chambers and chapels, particularly St. Kinga’s Chapel. An alternative option is the more interactive ‘Miners’ Route,’ which leaves from the Regis Shaft and involves participants being assigned a role by the foreman/ tour guide and experiencing the daily routines, rituals and secrets of working underground. As one of the oldest and most wealthy towns in Małopolska, it’s safe to assume that not all of Wieliczka’s wonders reside underground. Listed as a historical monument in 1994, the centre of the town itself - located between the two shafts - is easily walkable and perfectly charming, including a handsome town square, St. Clement’s Church, and the Saltworks Castle - which also happens to be on UNESCO’s coveted list.

Wieliczka WIELICZKA SALT MINE - TOURIST ROUTE The Tourist Route is the most popular way to experience the Wieliczka Salt Mine, and it begins at the Daniłowicza Shaft, located just a short walk up ul. Daniłowicza from the Wieliczka train station. Tickets can be bought from the ticket office at the entrance, or through their website, which is the best way to see the tour times available. Frequent tours are offered in Polish, English, Russian, French, Italian, Spanish and German. Be prepared to do a lot of walking (comfortable shoes, people) and bear in mind that the mine is a constant 15 degrees Celsius. The Tourist Route takes you to a max depth of -135m, with the 3.5km covered during the 3hr tour comprising a mere 1% of this underground realm. While wandering the mine’s ancient tunnels and chambers you’ll gain insight from your guide about the history of the site, the techniques used to extract the salt and the lives of the men who worked there. The highlight of the tour is the magnificent 22,000m³ St. Kinga’s Chapel dating from the 17th century. Known for its amazing acoustics, the chapel features bas-relief wall carvings from the New Testament done by miners that display an astonishing amount of depth and realism. Note that your ticket is valid for both the Tourist Route, which comprises the first 2hrs, and the Underground Museum which takes an additional 1hr to visit. In between there’s an opportunity to use the restrooms, get something to eat, visit the gift shop, or call it a day if that’s your preference. Though Wieliczka tour guides will suggest that the tour ends at the restaurant/gift shop, they are obliged to also escort you to and through the Underground Museum, which you have already paid for. The Museum comprises an additional 16 chambers over 1.5km packed full of artwork, artefacts and mining equipment. Highlights include two paintings by famous 19th century Polish artist Jan Matejko, and an entire room full of sparkling salt crystals. Qul. Daniłowicza 10, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl. Open 07:30-19:30. Admission 89/69zł. Taking photos is an additional 10zł.

Detail from a bas-relief in St. Kinga’s Chapel, Tourist Route. Alexander Baxevanis, CC BY 2.0

The IYP team auditions for work underground on the Miners’ Route.

WIELICZKA SALT MINE - MINERS’ ROUTE A more interactive alternative to the mega-popular ‘Tourist Route,’ Wieliczka’s Miners’ Route offers visitors a chance to sign on as novice miners for the day and learn the ropes of this dangerous and demanding profession. This more workmanlike expedition sets off from the historic Regis Shaft, located right in the centre of Wieliczka, just a short walk east from the train station. Here, participants are given grey coveralls, a hard hat, headlamp and emergency respirator, assigned a locker, and told to suit up and report for underground duty. In addition to the fun of dressing up and looking slightly ridiculous, each person in the group is given a specific role by the foreman/tour guide who will appraise their performance when they are called upon to perform certain tasks during the course of this 3-hour trip underground. While exploring passages and chambers that are sometimes lit only by the light of your own torches, you and your companions will learn safety measures, strange mining traditions and rituals, how to use specialised mining equipment and get a more authentic and exciting sense of what it’s like to work underground. While some members will be tasked with measuring the concentration of methane, transporting, or grinding up salt, the map readers have perhaps the most challenging job of navigating the group through this extremely disorienting underground labyrinth. Szczęść Boże! Though lacking the jaw-dropping sights of the Tourist Route, the Miners’ Route can be great fun for groups (up to 20 people), especially if you’ve done the Tourist Route before. Individuals can also go on their own, or join together to form a group. Tours are given at specific times in Polish, English or Russian only, and should be reserved in advance; arrive 15mins before the tour begins in order to get geared up. While hardly strenuous, this route is more active than the Tourist Route and comfortable shoes are a must. Also, bear in mind that the mine is a cool 15 degrees Centigrade.QPlac Kościuszki 9, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl. Open 09:00-18:00. Admission 89/69zł. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Auschwitz-Birkenau

The infamous Auschwitz I entrance gate.

For centuries the town of Oświęcim was a quiet backwater community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed with WWII when Oświęcim, known as ‘Auschwitz’ under German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5 million people were exterminated here, etching the name of Auschwitz forever into the history books and countless films, documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since burned it into the collective consciousness.

presented in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps spared from fully surrendering to their emotions only by the sheer relentlessness of the information. No matter how much you think you know on the subject, the perspective gained by visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you choose to go to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However it should be understood that Auschwitz is not a site of Jewish concern, Polish concern, German concern, gypsy concern, historical concern... It is a site of human concern. As such, we believe everyone should visit.

Visitors to Kraków and Katowice are faced with asking themselves whether or not they will make the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a difficult question. There are few who would say they actually ‘want’ to visit Auschwitz, though many are compelled to do so for their own reasons. For those of us who don’t feel so compelled, it’s easy to give reasons for not going: not having enough time, already knowing as much as we need or want to know about it, not feeling personally connected enough to the site or the history to need to visit, or being uncomfortable about the prospect of visiting a site of such emotional resonance at the same time as hundreds of other tourists. Having been there, we can tell you that all of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz are perfectly reasonable until you’ve actually visited the site; you’ll be hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip and still argues against going.

VISITING AUSCHWITZ

The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion, poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it almost makes as lasting an impression as the site itself. Without being heavy-handed, the history of the site is 74 Kraków In Your Pocket

If you’ve decided to visit Auschwitz, you basically have three options: visit as part of a group organised by a tourist agency, visit independently and join a guided tour at the museum, or visit independently for free without a guide. Unfortunately, a new online reservation system now makes the latter two options much more difficult than in the past. All visits must now be booked in advance through the website visit.auschwitz.org. As a result, you may find there are no tickets available because they have all been snatched up by tourist agencies. The unavailability of tickets online doesn’t mean you can’t visit Auschwitz when you want, but it does basically force you to sign up for a tour through an outside provider. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as it relieves you of the hassle of figuring out how to get there and back, but you will essentially be paying a surcharge for the service. For most people, however, it is worth it. If you are determined to visit independently you need to know that during peak season (March - October) the museum makes it obligatory to buy a ticket and become

Auschwitz-Birkenau part of a 3.5hr guided tour unless you get there before 10:00 or after 16:00 - during which times it is possible to visit for free on your own (last entrance to Auschwitz I is 1.5hrs before closing). Be that as it may, we strongly recommend the official guided tour, which is excellent, profound and professional; afterwards you’ll find it hard to imagine getting as much out of your visit had you explored the grounds on your own. Tour departure times fluctuate (check the schedule online), but tours in English depart frequently, and there are also regularly scheduled tours in Polish, German, French, Italian, Russian and Spanish; tours in other languages can also be arranged in advance through the website. Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum on your own can be chaotic and confusing thanks to large crowds and unclear signage. If you are visiting independently, or in a small group, head for queue in front of the desk marked ‘Individual Guests;’ if it’s peak season (March 1 - Oct. 31) and you don’t already have tickets (not recommended), you must first visit the white Info box located outside the entrance. Once you’re through the queues, your experience typically begins with a harrowing 20-minute film of narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army when they arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945. The film is not guaranteed however, so in some cases your tour will begin straightaway with a live guide speaking into a microphone which you hear through your headphones. If you intend to explore Auschwitz without a guide, we recommend that you give yourself several hours to explore both camps, and that you pick up the official guidebook (5-15zł) whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid missing any of the key sites; these can be picked up at any of the numerous bookshops at both Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II - Birkenau. Visiting Auschwitz is a full day’s excursion so prepare accordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I takes around 2 hours, so make sure you’ve eaten breakfast. After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a short break before the bus leaves for Auschwitz-Birkenau II; in order to stay with the same tour guide, you need to catch that bus, so it would be wise to pack some food for the day (though there is some limited food available at the museum). The tour of the second camp is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours. Buses regularly depart back to Auschwitz I, or you can walk or catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away. At Auschwitz I there are restrooms (have change available), a fast food bar and a restaurant; there are also restroom facilities at Auschwitz II-Birkenau. Note that only small bags are allowed into Auschwitz I; if your bag exceeds the very small dimensions of 30x20x10cm, you’ll have to leave it somewhere; lockers are provided for this purpose.Qul. Stanisławy Leszczyńskiej 11, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz. org. Open 07:30-18:00. Last entrance 1.5hrs before closing. Auschwitz is not recommended for those under 14 years old. An individual ticket for a foreign language guided tour of both camps, plus the film, costs 60/55zł. Official guidebook 5-15zł. Admission without a guide (when possible) to either camp is free, but the film costs 6/3zł.

GETTING TO AUSCHWITZ

Auschwitz II - Birkenau Photo by Alana de Haan; alanacdehaan.com

Lying 75km west of Kraków, there are several ways to get to Oświęcim/Auschwitz. The easiest may be signing on for a tour organised by a multitude of Kraków-based tour companies (like Cracow City Tours or Cracow Tours) to ensure everything goes smoothly; providing transportation, tickets and general guidance, the organisational help of these outfits can eliminate significant confusion upon arrival. For those going the DIY route, whether by bus or train, the route planning website e-podroznik.pl is a valuable resource. Frequent buses depart for Oświęcim from Kraków’s main bus station (ul. Bosacka 18, L-4); most stop at the Auschwitz Museum entrance (called ‘Oświęcim Muzeum’), but not all, so make sure beforehand otherwise you may end up at the Oświęcim bus station which is at the other end of town. The journey takes 1hr 20-40mins and costs 12-15zł. Frequent, almost hourly trains also run between Kraków and Oświęcim, with a journey time of 1hr 45mins 2hrs 15mins and a cost of about 9zł; note, however, that early trains to Oświęcim can be eerily crowded, particularly on weekends. The Oświęcim train station (ul. Powstańców Śląskich 22) lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers 24-29 stop at Auschwitz I; buy a ticket (under 3zł) from the nearest kiosk. Free museum buses regularly shuttle visitors between the two camps, or catch a cab for 15zł. Waiting minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour (+48 605 31 50 77) can take you back to Kraków from either camp - a group of eight would pay about 30-40zł/person.

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Tarnów WHAT TO SEE THE MARKET SQUARE & TOWN HALL Tarnów’s charming market square, with its 15th century Town Hall, is the city’s crowning glory and social gravitational point. Start here. THE CATHEDRAL This red-brick Neo-Gothic wonder just off the Rynek dates back to the 14th century, and features a 72m tall tower and 5m monument of JPII. THE OLD SYNAGOGUE BIMAH Once the place of worship for 45% of the population, this ruined remnant of the Old Synagogue is a reminder of the city’s Jewish heritage.

Eighty kilometres east of Kraków lies the charming and hospitable city of Tarnów. Małopolska’s second city by size, Tarnów is absolutely dwarfed by Kraków but features many of the same cultural and architectural charms without the crushing crowds, inflated prices and occasional feelings of herd mentality that unfortunately come along with a tourist market the size of Kraków’s. On the contrary, Tarnów offers tourists the comforts of a small town with a long history and the cultural intrigue and activities of a bigger city. In addition to a well-preserved medieval Old Town - which includes a glorious Cathedral, a cute market square and Town Hall, and many pedestrian avenues - in Tarnów visitors will discover several unique and worthwhile museums, wooden churches, historic cemeteries, castle ruins and a scenic overlook, as well as dozens of artistic and historical monuments at every turn. Those with a special interest in Jewish history will still discover a city with a deep Jewish heritage, many traces of which are still in evidence today. While the town’s nightlife may not have the sizzle of Kraków, there are still plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants where you’ll find it easy to meet friendly local folks who are proud of their city and eager to present a good impression to foreigners. All told it’s enough to warrant a day trip from Kraków, or even spend one or more nights, as Tarnów makes a superb base for exploring the wealth of other sites of interest in the region. You’ll find more information on Tarnów and all the surrounding area has to offer on our website (tarnow.inyourpocket.com), but make sure you also pay a visit to the fine folks at the Tourist Information Office (Rynek 7; open 08:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00) when you arrive and pick up a copy of the Tarnów In Your Pocket mini-guide. 76 Kraków In Your Pocket

THE FORMER MIKVAH One of Tarnów’s most unique buildings, this ritual Jewish bath house was built in Moorish style in 1904; before it stands a monument to the first transport of prisoners to Auschwitz, who were detained here. Today the mikvah houses a top restaurant. THE JEWISH CEMETERY Dating back to the 1580s, this haunting Jewish cemetery is one of the oldest and largest in PL, and a necessary part of any visit to Tarnów. THE ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM Home to a unique, fascinating and rare exhibit that traces Roma (gypsy) culture in Poland, including several gypsy caravans in the garden. BUREK SQUARE The whimsical Organ Grinder stands outside Tarnów’s popular marketplace - packed with stalls selling produce, fruit, meat, flowers and more. ST. MARY’S CHURCH This beautiful little Gothic larch wood church dates back to the 15th century and is only a four block walk south from the market square. ST. MARTIN’S HILL Get active and explore the ruins of Tarnowski Castle - with panoramic views of the Old Town, and see St. Martin’s - a wooden church nearby.

GETTING TO TARNÓW Only 80km east of Kraków, Tarnów can be easily reached by car in less than one hour via the toll-free A4 highway. Buses from Kraków to Tarnów run 2-3 times each hour, trains every 30-60 minutes; journey times vary. Use the route-planning site e-podroznik.pl to find exact connections.

Behold the mighty zapiekanka! | Photo by Liam Alford CC BY-SA

7 Essential Eating Experiences From street food to traditional national dishes, these are the eating experiences you must have while in Krakรณw. Consider it an edible to-do list. 78 Krakรณw In Your Pocket

Essential Eats What’s the first food item people associate with Poland? Yes, pierogi - a stuffed dumpling whose general equivalent can be found in just about every single regional cuisine the world over. That’s not to disparage pierogi, but if you’ve tried them locally and think you’re done with Kraków food tourism, we insist otherwise. Just as every country has its own specific culinary profile, so too does every city. We’d argue that the latter are generally far more interesting, revealing and rewarding than the former, as they give you a greater sense not only of place, but also people, contributing to the unique character of a city. From street food to traditional national dishes, here are the most essential eating experiences you must have while in Kraków. Consider it an edible to-do list:

1. OBWARZANKI

Any culinary journey through Kraków is likely to start with the obwarzanek. A chewy dough ring sprinkled (usually extremely unevenly) with salt, poppy or sesame seeds, obwarzanki are sold from blue rolling carts on every other street corner in Kraków, and are so inescapable they’ve become an unofficial symbol of the city.

2. ZAPIEKANKA FROM PLAC NOWY

Essentially a baguette pizza, zapiekanki emerged during the communist era as the ultimate Polish street food: cheap, fast, filling, and easy enough to make that anywhere with a wall socket and space for a toaster could become a zapiekanki stand. Order one at any train station in PL and you’ll essentially receive half a stale baguette covered with mushrooms and cheese, thrown in a toaster oven and squirted with ketchup. Underwhelming to say the least. However, the vendors of the Plac Nowy roundhouse (K-8. p.42) - Kazimierz’s drunk food headquarters - have taken this simple concept and gone gourmet with it, making a true art out of the ‘Polish pizza.’ With endless addons (including salami, spinach, smoked cheese, pickles, pineapple, feta – you name it), garlic sauce and chives have become standard procedure at this point. Because of their popularity you’ll witness ridiculous lines at the various windows around the roundhouse, but the wait is worth it. At 6-12zł (depending on toppings) it’s a great value and will sustain you through a night of heavy drinking (if copious amounts of bread isn’t in your diet, split one with friend by asking the vendor to cut it in half ). To leave town without having tried a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be felonious, as would settling for one anywhere else in Kraków. Most vendors on Plac Nowy are open from mid-afternoon until about 02:00, but it all depends on factors outside our purview.

3. KIEŁBASA FROM THE BLUE VAN

Obwarzanki

Photo by Chris Brown

Known as the ‘Cracovian bagel,’ the obwarzanek gets its name from the Polish word for ‘par-boiled’ and therefore differs slightly from the bagel, in addition to being its popular counterpart’s predecessor. Though the origins of the bagel are complex, confusing and hotly-contested, most agree that it was invented by Cracovian Jews after 1496 when a decree restricting the production of baked goods was lifted. First written mention of the obwarzanek, meanwhile, dates back earlier to 1394, meaning that it’s been a daily sight on Kraków’s market square for well over 600 years. In 2010 it was given prestigious status as a protected regional food under EU law. Although the price of an obwarzanek has inflated up to around 1.50zł (sacrilege!), you’ll still see countless people munching these braided pretzel rings. Tasty and filling when fresh, the art of truly enjoying an obwarzanek leaves a lot up to chance. Cracovian bakers produce up to 200,000 obwarzanki daily in the summer, despite the fact that on leaving the oven these baked goods have a sell-by date of about three hours. As such, finding a fresh one is essential, but for a couple coins you can afford to try your luck.

‘Kiełbasa’ is probably one of the most internationally understood words in the Polish language, and this legendary sidewalk stand is the place to partake locally in a Polish sausage. A Cracovian street food institution for over twenty-five years, here two old boys in white smocks set up shop outside their iconic blue Nyska (a Soviet model van) every evening except Sundays to grill kiełbasa sausages over a wood-fired stove for the hungry, drunken masses. For 8zł you get a delicious sausage, slightly stale roll, ketchup, mustard and an unforgettable experience. Essentially Kraków’s first food truck, don’t miss it if you’re in the neighbourhood. QK‑6, ul. Grzegórzecka 3 (Plac Targowy). Open 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.

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Essential Eats 5. GRILLED OSCYPEK WITH CRANBERRIES

4. A MILK BAR

Essentially the inverse of gourmet dining, the Polish milk bar (‘bar mleczny’) was the communist party’s solution for how to feed the masses, and a visit to one of these working class cafeterias today provides a rare insight into Eastern Bloc Poland. Quickly serving traditional cuisine to a steady queue of students, pensioners and tramps, here you can eat a full meal for only a few coins. You get what you pay for in terms of atmosphere, but in terms of food it’s an unbeatable value. That said, anyone stepping into a milk bar should be doing so as much for the cultural experience as the culinary one. Though the concept apparently dates back to the turn of the century, the Polish milk bar became a societal institution after WWII when PL’s communist authorities began nationalising the country’s restaurants and sought to popularise milk-drinking (as opposed to vodka), inspired by Poland’s large surplus of dairy products. As such, originally no hot dishes were served; the milk bar was a place where you went simply to enjoy milk, served in a glass with a straw (so classy). But the proletariat can’t run on milk alone and soon the Party concept had shifted to providing cheap, dairy-based meals to the masses; in fact, a worker’s salary often included meals at the local milk bar. In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage cheese and other dairy concoctions, milk bars offered omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as flour-based foods like pierogi. With the collapse of communism most bar mleczny went bankrupt, however, some of these feed museums were saved and continue to be kept open through state subsidies. Indecisiveness is unacceptable, so if you’re not sure what to order, pierogi are always a safe bet, or be bold and go for bigos (a hearty cabbage stew). The range of available dishes begins to fall off as closing time approaches, so go early, go often. POD TEMIDĄ Located right on the Royal Route, this is the easiest milk bar to find: look for the blue and white ‘Bar Mleczny’ sign. QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 43, tel. (+48) 12 422 08 74. Open 09:00 - 20:00. €. U 80 Kraków In Your Pocket

A tradition of the mountainous Podhale region just south of Kraków, oscypek is a smoked cheese made from salted sheep milk which is curdled, then rinsed repeatedly with boiling water, squeezed, and pressed into wooden forms which give it it’s decorative shape. It has a distinct smoky, salty flavour and chewy texture, and, like the obwarzanek, is protected under EU law from being made outside of the Polish Tatra Mountains. Though not technically Cracovian, since Kraków is the closest metropolitan area to the Tatras, oscypek is a common site in the city’s markets; you’ll also find babcias (Polish grannies) selling their decorative cheeses near the train station. The best way to enjoy oscypek, however (in our opinion, anyway), is grilled with a side of cranberry sauce. Most traditional Polish restaurants will serve it this way as an appetiser, or if you’re lucky you can score some at one of Kraków’s many food fairs on the market square or Mały Rynek.

Oscypek with cranberry sauce.

6. PĄCZKI

A tradition since the 1700s, the pączek (plural: pączki) is Poland’s national doughnut, and so popular that it even has its own annual holiday – Tłusty Czwartek (Fat Thursday) – which falls on the last Thursday before Lent (generally in February). A traditional pączek is typically filled with rose jam and glazed with sugar and candied orange peel, or simply topped with powdered sugar. These can be found in any local cukiernia, but a new breed of doughnut shops are now expanding the horizons of the humble pączek by offering an array of fillings, and we list the best below: GORĄCE PĄCZKI QI‑5, ul. Szewska 25, tel. (+48) 791 55 55 88. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €. STARA PĄCZKARNIA Also in the Basztowa-Lubicz underpass between the Planty and Galeria Krakowska (K-5).QJ‑8, ul. Stradomska 18, tel. (+48) 506 95 88 90, www.starapaczkarnia.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. €.

Essential Eats 7. VODKA & PICKLED HERRING

A very Polish phenomenon that has swept the country in recent years is the all-night snacks and shots bar. Known locally as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’ (literally ‘Appetisers & Snacks’), or ‘Polish Tapas’ as it’s been dubbed by some, these trendy budget bars can be found all over town, cashing in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by offering a small selection of simple, Soviet-era appetisers (typically served cold) for about 8-10zł each, with drinks at 4-5zł. Much like a milk bar with a liquor license, the menu reads like a list of correct answers to the Jeopardy category ‘Foods That Go With Vodka’ and typically includes śledź (pickled herring), galaretka (pig trotters in jelly), kiełbasa (sausage), pierogi, pickles and beef tartare. For the proper experience, however, it has to be pickled herring and clear vodka; Ambasada Śledzia (The Herring Embassy) offers not only the widest variety of śledź, but also the best quality, plus a slightly less sloppy atmosphere than the 24-hour student mayhem found in Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa or Bania Luka. AMBASADA ŚLEDZIA (THE HERRING EMBASSY) The editorial fave. When this main ‘Herring Embassy’ shutters, the all-night shenanigans carry on down the street at ul. Stolarska 5 (‘Śledź u Fryzjera,’ open 13:00 04:00; Fri, Sat 13:00 - 06:00).QJ‑6, ul. Stolarska 8/10, tel. (+48) 662 56 94 60. Open 09:00 - 24:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. BW BANIALUKA Also at ul. Szewska 13 (B-3).QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 6, tel. (+48) 790 77 06 48. Open 10:00 - 06:00. UW PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA Also at ul. Floriańska 34 (J-5), ul. Szewska 20 (I-5) and Pl. Nowy 7 (K-8).QJ‑5, ul. Św. Jana 3-5 (entrance from ul. Św. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 80 75. Open 09:00 - 06:00. W

Pickled herring with sour cream and onions from Ambasada Śledzia.

FOOD TRUCKS

Bezogródek

BEZOGRÓDEK FOOD TRUCK PARK A food truck ‘park’ that actually resembles a park, this is certainly the nicest one in Kraków - well designed with boardwalks over the grass, beach chairs and picnic tables. The location may seem far, but it’s actually the perfect place for families frolicking in Jordan Park to escape and get some food. Find upwards of a dozen food trucks, plus coffee, ice cream, beer and wine. Tram 20 drops you off at ‘Cichy Kącik’ right outside the entrance.QC‑5, ul. Piastowska 20. Open 12:00-20:00. DWOREK STREET FOOD PARK The first food truck park truly in the centre (finally), this trendy hangout next to Puro Hotel is a great alternative to the eating options inside Galeria Krakowska. Behind a colourful gateway of painted palettes you’ll find beach chairs, benches, sand and boardwalks, toilets and a playground, plus, of course, plenty of food vendors, as well as local beer from Brokreacja.QK‑3, ul. Pawia 30. Open 12:00-21:00. JUDAH SQUARE FOOD TRUCK PARK Food trucks are the latest food fad in PL, and Kazimierz’s Skwer Judah - named after the massive street mural that adorns it - provides parking and some scant seating for this culinary trend. Tenants change often, but the Andrus Food Truck - serving maczanka, the Cracovian pulled pork sandwich - is a noteworthy mainstay.QK‑9, ul. Św Wawrzyńca 16. Open 12:0023:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. From May open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00. PLAC IZAAKA This food truck park behind Isaac Synagogue is more central and arguably the more scenic and atmospheric than nearby Judah Square, thanks to gravel instead of asphalt, some potted plants, and actual attempts at proper seating. You’ll find here about ten food trucks, plus a draught beer station from the Stajnia Pub across the street.QK‑8, Corner of Izaaka, Ciemna and Jakuba. Open 13:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Traditional Polish Dishes

Pierogi | courtesy of Tradycyja (p.92).

Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and not especially colourful. You simply haven’t had a thorough sampling of it until you’ve tried all the traditional dishes below, all of which can be found at almost any Polish restaurant in town. Smacznego!

BIGOS

Though there is no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

GOŁĄBKI

Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz IV fed his army quinn.anya, flicker.com, CC BY-SA 2.0 gołąbki before a battle against the Teutonic Order, and their unlikely victory has been attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

GOLONKA

Bigos

82 Kraków In Your Pocket

Pork knuckle or hock, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish delicacy, the boiled, braised or roasted meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Go caveman.

Traditional Polish Dishes KOTLET SCHABOWY

Probably the most popular lunch/ supper in Poland is the almighty ‘schabowy’ with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, and you can walk into almost restaurant in the country and be assured of its presence on the menu (if the kitchen hasn’t run out of it already). Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a Saturday or Sunday morning by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the collective sound of every housewife in Poland tenderising the meat for this meal with a spiky mallet. So best mind your manners.

PIEROGI

Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawberries or plums, though if you nose around you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are served almost everywhere in the city.

PLACKI ZIEMNIACZANE

These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to Jewish latkes, and may be served simply with sour cream, or as a hefty meal smothered in mushroom sauce or goulash. Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

ZUPA (SOUP)

Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with potatoes and veggies tossed in, with a croquette or miniature pierogi floating in it, or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking (‘barszcz solo’). A recommended alternative to other beverages with any winter meal, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Kraków. It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg chucked in, and often served in a bread bowl. krakow.inyourpocket.com

Cafés

Cafe Nakielny (p.83).

Kraków is infamous for its cafe culture which easily rivals that of celebrated capitals like Paris and Vienna, perhaps even outmatching them pound for pound. In fact, it was a famous Pole - Jerzy Kulczycki - who opened the first coffeehouse in Vienna. Kraków’s Kazimierz district is particularly known for its atmospheric cafes, filled with candlelight, antiques and Old World mystique. Most Cracovian cafes also serve alcohol and the line between cafe and bar can be a blurry one indeed. The venues we’ve listed here tend to favour coffee and cakes over beer and booze and when most cafe/bar establishments are turning up the music for their ‘til last guest’ clientele, these are more often closing their doors. 2 OKNA CAFE Next to the High Synagogue, this charming and artistic cafe presents an ideal place to idly pass the time, catch up with a friend, or get caught up on work. With no less than four seating areas to choose from, from the sunny streetside tables to the cool, green garden in the back (certainly one of the best places in town to disappear with a book), in between is a gallery space with an avant garde angle, where vernissages occur often. The menu offers a humble array of breakfast bites (Cracovian bagels, quiche, oatmeal, cakes and pastries), tapas and Spanish empanadas, plus fresh-squeezed juices, smoothies, wine, coffee and beer. Overall there’s a very low-key, friendly and international atmosphere to this place.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 40, tel. (+48) 12 378 34 43. Open 08:30-21:00; Fri, Sat 08:30-23:00. TUBE6 84 Kraków In Your Pocket

BUNKIER CAFE Attached to Kraków’s best contemporary art gallery, this enclosed terrace bar/cafe on the Planty resembles a spacious greenhouse wherein the plants have been replaced with couples, happy hour colleagues and English teachers giving private lessons around wobbly tables and chairs, and a sandbox for kids to dig through in summer. A year-round pleasure (thanks to plenty of heaters), the space is judiciously divided between smoking and non, and they now offer a full menu of delicious food that’s served late; in fact the inviting atmosphere is marred only by the slow to completely negligent table service that unfortunately can’t be circumnavigated.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 3A, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 85, www.bunkiercafe. pl. Open 09:00-01:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00-02:00. XB6 CAFE NAKIELNY This spacious, modern cafe and bakery has a lot to offer anyone looking for a caffeine fix, sweet tooth satisfier, or pleasant place to pull out the laptop. ‘Monocakes’ delicious personal-sized desserts you wouldn’t dare share - are the latest trendy food term, and Nakielny has row after row of these colourful creations filling their display counter, plus sandwiches and savoury phyllo pastries, pralines, macaroons, shakes and some of the best ice cream in town. Beautifully designed (and smartly branded), with a clean aesthetic and comfortable armchairs, this is just a great place to pass time. Also a second location in the very centre at ul. Szewska 27 (B-3).QJ‑4, ul. Basztowa 15, tel. (+48) 882 59 13 25, www.nakielny.pl. Open 06:30-21:30; Sat 07:00-20:00; Sun 08:00-20:00. TB

Cafés CUPCAKE CORNER BAKERY This cheerful American-style bakery/cafe couldn’t be more authentic if it was run by Martha Stewart herself. Offering 16 cupcake flavours each day, choose from delicious creations like Peanut Butter Brownie, Sunny Orange and Red Velvet, plus vegan options. But cupcakes are only part of the game - start your day with a fresh-baked bagel slathered in one of their flavoured cream cheeses, and don’t miss their all-natural, artisanal ice cream and milkshakes. Also at ul. Szewska 22 (I-5), ul. Grodzka 48 (J-6) and ul. Michałowskiego 14 (H-4).QI‑6, ul. Bracka 4, tel. (+48) 12 341 42 72, www.cupcakecorner.pl. Open 08:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-21:00. TUB CYTAT CAFE This literary cafe in the heart of Kazimierz offers the perfect place to escape into a book, slap about the laptop, catch up with an old friend, or just caffeinate. ‘Quotation Cafe’ lives up to its name with used books everywhere (all for sale, and mostly all in Polish), quotes stencilled all over the walls, and each large, delicious coffee coming with a printed quote (ours appropriately reading, ‘A poet is one who knows how to be unhappy in an elegant way.’ - Stanisław Lem). A great option for breakfast (egg, bacon and cheese on a croissant for the win!) - served until 13:00, they also have an entire wall of boardgames, beer and wine.QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 23/1, tel. (+48) 518 19 00 04. Open 08:00-21:00; Fri 08:00-22:00; Sat 09:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-21:00. B MEHO CAFE One of our favourite places for a respite in Kraków, the magnificent gardens of the Mehoffer House (p.64) represent the majority of the seating at the estate’s otherwise tiny Meho Cafe. Full of roses and fruit trees, this expansive oasis is well-maintained and completely uncluttered, making it one of the most peaceful, pleasant places to bring your book and enjoy a coffee, arrange an afternoon rendezvous, or select from their menu of tasty, under-priced eats. Open early with a full breakfast menu (served until 13:00), if you’ve had enough of the bustle of the market square, there’s no better, more magical place in Kraków to unwind in the sun than here. Highly recommended.QH‑5, ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 600 48 00 49. Open 10:00-22:00. TB MO-JA CAFÉ & BISTRO A top-notch, modern cafe, Mo-ja offers a huge selection of all-day breakfast, brunch and lunch options with a conscious bent towards vegan and gluten-free diets. There’s something for all tastes and appetites, however: granola, pancakes, frittatas, eggs benedict, salads and sandwiches, including the Club BLT and the ‘breakfast burger’ (a glorified egg sandwich loaded with goodness). They make all their own sauces, jams, cakes and sweets, and, in addition to coffee and tea, offer a range of fresh fruit and veggie shakes, alc and meat/cheese boards. With a relaxing atmosphere, this is great place to get some work done or just get your day going in the right direction.QK‑6, ul. Starowiślna 14, tel. (+48) 691 90 49 01, www.cafemoja.pl. Open 08:00-19:00; Tue, Wed 08:00-20:00; Thu, Fri 08:00-21:00. TB6

BREAKFAST

The mighty ‘San Francisco’ from Forum

BAGELMAMA Kazimierz’s favourite bagel spot, served as you like it all day from a wide range of sweet or savoury spreads and toppings, whether your style is hummus and sprouts or egg, bacon and cheddar.QL‑8, ul. Dajwór 10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16 46. Open 09:00-17:00. €. TB6 CHARLOTTE. CHLEB I WINO In Charlotte early risers will find great coffee, fresh bread, pastries, breakfast sets (served all day) and a wonderful atmosphere. High ceilinged and full of natural light this Parisian-style cafe/bakery is a great place to read the paper, open the laptop or slowly unwind the day ahead of you.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 600 80 78 80, www.bistrocharlotte.pl. Open 07:00-24:00; Fri 07:00-01:00; Sat 08:00-01:00; Sun 08:00-22:00. €. B6 FORUM PRZESTRZENIE One of the best in town, Forum’s morning menu (served until 13:00) includes the awesome ‘San Francisco’ breakfast of frankfurters, toast with turkey, a fried egg, sweet corn, bacon and pancakes for only 22zł. As if you need more, there’s also scrambled eggs with add-ins, oatmeal with fresh fruit, vegan and gluten-free options. QI‑10, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28, tel. (+48) 515 42 47 24, www.forumprzestrzenie.com. Open 10:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00. €. TB6 RANNY PTASZEK This brilliant ‘breakfast bar’ combines the classic American diner with the modern Brooklyn brunchery. Healthy, affordable and served super fast, compose your own meal from shaksouka, Hungarian sausage, patatas bravas, pickled veggies, hummus and more, or go for one of their sandwiches or salads. Unfortunately, space is super limited, so enjoy this pleasure with just your sweetheart, because the whole fam won’t fit. QJ‑8, ul. Augustiańska 5, tel. (+48) 517 65 62 46. Open 08:00-16:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-16:00. €. B6 krakow.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Filipa 18 Food Wine Art (p.98)

The number of places to eat in Kraków is now extremely wide, and though the city’s most refined restaurants are still waiting for starry-eyed acceptance from a certain French tyre company, Kraków’s culinary rep is most definitely on the rise. For proof, Kraków is the first city to receive the prestigious title ‘European Capital of Gastronomic Culture 2019’ - take that, Michelin. There are certainly more good restaurants in Kraków than you could ever possibly fit into one trip, so fear not, you won’t have to eat tyres.

FAMILIES & GROUPS Slowly but surely, more places in Kraków have things like changing tables, high chairs, and play corners - look for the Child-Friendly symbol T at the end of each listing. That said, nothing beats the rumpus room in Pod Wawelem (p.100), which also offers food your kids will actually eat. If you’re travelling in a large group, Cargo (p.87), Boccanera (p.96) and Stara Zajezdnia (p.108) also have plenty of space to accommodate.

While our print guide carries a wide selection of Kraków’s most noteworthy restaurants, there are many, many more listed on our website (iyp.me/krakow), where we encourage you to leave your own comments. All IYP reviews are updated regularly and completely subjective. The opening hours we list are rough guidelines as to when you can expect the chef to be working. Smacznego!

COUPLES Kraków is a marvellous backdrop for romance, but making a reservation is imperative in this town, especially on weekends. Put a call in to Bottiglieria (p.91), Karakter (p.92), Bianca (p.96) or Euskadi (p.102) and let the atmosphere do the rest.

FINE DINING The debate over Kraków’s ‘best restaurant’ is a contentious and constantly shifting one. In the conversation at this moment are Szara Gęś (p.100), Pod Róża (p.99) and Copernicus (p.92), old-timer Wierzynek (p.100), and award-winning newcomer Art Restaurant (p.98). BUDGET A milk bar (p.80) is as cheap as you’ll eat anywhere in your life, or head to Smakołyki (p.100) for budget Polish food with atmosphere. If you’re not a fan of Polish cuisine, Chimera (p.102), Pizzatopia (p.96) and Bunkier (p.92) all offer great value and ambiance, or enjoy super foods at super prices in Wielopole 3 (p.103). 86 Kraków In Your Pocket

INTERNATIONAL CUISINE Already had enough Polish food? Euskadi (Basque, p.102), Tao (Asian, p.88), Indus Tandoor (Indian, p.90) and Hamsa (contemporary Israeli, p.97) are all excellent, and Zazie Bistro (French, p.89) has garnered awards for being one of the best values in town. GARDENS & VIEWS It’s the season for casual dining outdoors and Kraków is full of gorgeous hidden gardens, foremost among them Hamsa (p.97), Tao Thai & Sushi (p.88) and the extraordinary Meho Cafe (p.85), while the outdoor assets of Forum (p.105), Bunkier (p.92) and Zalipianki (p.100) are more obvious. Also take note of the views that come with your food in Zielone Tarasy (p.102).

Restaurants SYMBOL & PRICE KEY 6 Animal friendly

C‑1 Map Coordinate

T Child-friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside Seating

X Smoking room available

€ €€ €€€ €€€€ €€€€€

most mains under 25zł most mains 25-45zł most mains 45-75zł most mains 75-115zł most mains over 115zł

AMERICAN CARGO GRILL & DELI Front and centre at Tytano, this big, bustling upscale American steakhouse angles for tourists and large groups over local hipsters. The post-industrial design of chunky wooden tables, firehouse red fixtures and fittings, plus a timber terrace out front, achieves a certain smartness by the sheer volume of poised, professional greeters and waitstaff on hand. Keep things within reason with a burger (30zł+), or splurge with a dry-aged steak (80zł+); in between you’ll find a nice goose fillet, some unique pierogi and an extensive wine list. Whether or not Cargo achieves the status of a top restaurant, it certainly operates like one.QG‑4, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10/2, tel. (+48) 12 686 55 22, www.cargokrakow.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€€. TB6 GRANDE GRILL Contrasting with the inflexible traditionalism of Wierzynek, this fresher effort from the same team behind Kraków’s most famous restaurant offers more modern styling and cuisine. The patio garden packed with plants hanging from timber beams is one of the best in town, and a stylish indoor dining area and live sports on the tele offer extra motivation for a visit. The menu is a simple selection of steaks, salads and burgers, all expertly made-to-order with the kind of service you would expect from the city’s most established restaurateurs.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 21, www.grandegrill.pl. Open 12:0023:00. €€€. TUB MOO MOO STEAK & BURGER CLUB On first glance this ‘club’ looks exclusive indeed, with runway waitresses, collared clientele and a minimal, modern monochromatic interior more ideal for a romantic date than spreading your face over a beef patty (and vice versa). The menu reveals an array of refined options from salmon to shrimp, with a bigger emphasis on choice steaks than their burgers - which when cut in half would actually pass for two burgers in most places. The reasonable prices and random krakow.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants music make Moo Moo a lot less pretentious than it first appears, and it’s a place we enjoy coming back to.QJ‑5, ul. Świętego Krzyża 15, tel. (+48) 531 00 70 97, www. moomoo.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:0024:00. €€€. TUB

+ 48 12 422 20 53

MOO MOO STEAK & WINE With an enviable location right on Mały Rynek, this modern steakhouse’s classy comportment and casual atmosphere make it a popular choice for dinner parties and dating couples. The steaks are tender and juicy, but the burgers seem to be the consumers’ consensus for best value. Served on oblong buns and conveniently cut in half, it’s easy to swap and share, but we’ll tell you right now - the burger with camembert, pear and caramelised onion is the best. If you’re not a shameless carnivore, opt for the seafood salad and a glass of red wine from among their almost one hundred vintages.QJ‑6, ul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12 422 20 53, www.moomoo.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€€. TB

ASIAN SAKANA SUSHI & STICKS Located on the ground floor of an ultra-modern office building, Kraków’s Sakana - with its seemingly endless wooden sushi counter, tall angled windows and designer furnishings - looks set to scoop several design awards. The menu encompasses everything from Japanese tapas and street food to traditionally grilled dishes and expertly-made sushi, and actually offers images of every fresh, delicious and exquisitely presented dish. With a kids’ menu and play area, it qualifies as a family restaurant, but Sakana is even better suited for those looking to impress partners in business or romance.QF‑6, Al. 3 Maja 9, tel. (+48) 12 383 34 33, www.sakana.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:0022:00. €€. T6

+ 48 531 007 097

TAJ Spacious and filled with a tasteful assortment of plants, artwork and lanterns, Taj definitely caters to more European tastes, but the food is nevertheless delicious, and a huge improvement over previous Thai offerings in town. Choose from satay, spring rolls, tom yum, papaya salad, different coloured curries, Thai basil chicken, pad thai, stir-fried tofu with cashews, mango with sticky rice and other Thai favourites. Vegan and omnivore lunch sets are served 12:00-16:00 Mon-Fri and cost a measly 22zł.QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 19, tel. (+48) 12 307 07 23. Open 12:00-22:00; Wed, Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. TB6 TAO THAI & SUSHI This trendy Japanese and Thai bistro in Podgórze (just over the lovely Bernatek footbridge) is smart and stylish, and features an amazing seasonal garden, which lures in the after-work drinks crowd (try the plum wine!), but also caters to kids with swinging seats and several fluffy rabbits literally hopping about between the tables.

88 Kraków In Your Pocket

Restaurants The expansive, expert menu features standards such as edamame, dim sum, Thai curry, pad thai and tempura, as well as their own specialties like the tasty Tempura Burger. All of it is absolutely delicious, and an able aid for the night’s aims, whether it’s business, romance or simple relaxation.QK‑10, ul. Józefińska 4, tel. (+48) 725 88 03 04, www.taogarden.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€€. TUB6

BALKAN BALKAN EXPRESS GRILL Drop into this budget Balkan eatery hidden in a large courtyard off of Floriańska for traditional specialties like ćevapi (sausage) sandwiches and tasty pljeskavica burgers slathered in ajvar and served in their own freshbaked buns. Thanks to their huge garden and street food appeal, its a bit of a trendy spot with locals looking a fast, budget meal that’s not a sketchy kebab, or just a beer in the sunshine. BEG’s meats are sourced locally and they’ve now started offering Polish grilled meat platters for those unable to quell their blood sausage cravings.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 39, tel. (+48) 730 33 32 22, www.balkanexpressgrill.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€. B6

FRENCH BISTRO BAZAAR Designed with a warm, vaguely industrial aesthetic, this bistro & bar à vin is one of the smartest locales on Plac Nowy. The focus is on the drink of the gods and everything that goes well with it: their own bread (baked on site), cheese plates, olives and other tapas, as well as bolder bistro options like venison tartare, veal sweetbreads, fried blood sausage, or escargot (get in the French spirit!). Breakfast is offered until 12:00, followed by a 30zł lunch special (MonFri 12:00 - 16:00) that includes a glass of wine.QK‑8, ul. Meiselsa 24, tel. (+48) 797 42 20 02, www.bazaarbistro. pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-02:00; Sun 09:0023:00. €€. B6 ZAZIE BISTRO This casual Kazimierz eatery is the closest thing Kraków has to a true Parisian bistro - complete with classic set meals (appetiser, entree, dessert) for an affordable 31zł (Tue-Fri only), cheese soufflé, fantastic crème brûlée and large slices of quiche. Set over two levels, the ground floor tries its luck at looking like a Parisian sidewalk terrace with a wall-length mural of France’s famous phallus, interior streetlights and even a candy-striped roll-out canopy over one table; head to the cellar for a more romantic atmosphere of candlelight and wine racks. With the head chef racking up culinary awards, this is a great place to experience outstanding French cuisine without a whiff of snobbery, and an excellent value for your money.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 34, tel. (+48) 500 41 08 29, www.zaziebistro. pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Mon 17:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:0024:00. €€. T6

Al. 3 maja 9, Kraków + 48 12 383 34 33 www.sakana.pl

krakow.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants GEORGIAN

D IA

द

भ

रा त का स्वा

M AS A

Mały Rynek 2-3, 31-041 Krakow

reservations +48 12 4214756, mail: manager@indiamasala.pl

www.indiamasala.pl

THE BEST INDIAN CUISINE IN TOWN

We invite you to enjoy our original Indian dishes. Catering service available. ul. św. Tomasza 18, +48 12 432 50 86 ul. Starowiślna 38, +48 12 423 22 82 www.indus.pl, indus@indus.pl Open 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00

90 Kraków In Your Pocket

SMAKI GRUZJI Slyly tucked away in Kazimierz (presumably where proRussian separatists won’t be able to find it), this modest Georgian eatery is actually one of the city’s hidden gems. Enjoy Eurasian dishes like roasted pork and lamb, stuffed grape leaves, Georgian meat dumplings (khinkali), khachapuri, traditional kharcho soup, and baked salmon, plus plenty of Georgian wine for only 8zł/glass, or starting from 44zł/bottle. The menu is admittedly meat-heavy, but fear not - there are also vegan and vegetarian dishes like the eggplant rolls with walnut-garlic puree. Delicious, ridiculously affordable and basically the perfect ethnic food experience, gather some friends together and enjoy your own supra the Georgian tradition of social feasting.QJ‑8, ul. Dietla 33 (entrance from ul. Augustiańska), tel. (+48) 883 43 34 23, www.smaki-gruzji.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. T

INDIAN INDIA MASALA As a mainstay anchoring Mały Rynek, this authentic effort from the same team behind Kraków’s top Indian eatery features popular patio seating and a classy, colourful interior infused with the scent of cardamom from the kitchen and sweet tobacco from the exotic hookah bar in the basement. The name may be India Masala, but the menu represents a wide range of regions across India with delicious dishes well-explained in English and well-presented in traditional metal bowls.QJ‑5, Mały Rynek 2-3, tel. (+48) 12 421 47 56, www.indiamasala.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. €€. B6 INDUS TANDOOR Kraków’s oldest Indian restaurant, Indus Tandoor essentially set a new, higher standard for the city’s ethnic eateries when it opened in the Old Town way back in 1998. Now they’ve moved with their faithful clientele into a large, historic cellar space just off of ul. Floriańska. Lit by lanterns that cast a canopy of constellations on the walls, the new space is more modern, minimal and fancy, but stops well short of being showy. The kitchen, staffed with Indian chefs, still delivers the best food of its kind in town. Try the business lunch specials (Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00, 17.50zł) for a fantastic value and variety. Find a second Indus Tandoor at ul. Starowiślna 36 (K-7).QJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 18, tel. (+48) 12 432 50 86, www.indus.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€. SPICE OF INDIA NEW While some modern Indian restaurants seem more interested in resembling Bollywood clubs, Spice of India’s humble, simple interior is reminiscent of Indian restaurants in the UK and US. The menu offers the gamut of traditional dishes - with chicken, lamb, prawns or vegetarian including many tandoor dishes and tandoori sizzlers. With rich flavours and amiable Indian staff, the authenticity isn’t in doubt. Although an entree, rice, Peshawari naan (our fave) and the obligatory mango lassi doesn’t come out as the cheapest meal, you’ll enjoy spending every grosz. And

+48 12 411 72 88 cyranodebergerac.com.pl

Restaurants

of course there are lunch specials offered Mon-Fri 12:00 16:00 (19-30zł).QK‑7, ul. Starowiślna 48, tel. (+48) 12 255 16 66, www.spiceofindia.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€. TB6

INTERNATIONAL Essentially a catch-all term for restaurants that can’t be classified as specialising in any one particular type of cuisine, our International section includes restaurants whose menus skip through several types of cuisine, or who serve what you might otherwise call contemporary ‘European cuisine.’The latter includes the authorial menus of the head chefs at some of the best restaurants in town, which are included here. ALCHEMIA OD KUCHNI An extension of the legendary bar of the same name, Alchemia od Kuchni serves a spot-on menu of sit-down street food, burgers, vegetarian eats and eclectic entrees including fresh fish, curries and more. Open late and also open early, the simple, white tile and brick aesthetic is reminiscent of NYC or Copenhagen’s meatpacking districts, the prices won’t divest you of your beer money, and the service is light years ahead of the bar next door. Rather than just cashing in on the location and crowds, the team behind Od Kuchnia obviously cares, making it possibly our favourite thing about Alchemia these days.QK‑8, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 882 04 42 99, www.odkuchni.com. Open 08:0023:00; Mon 10:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-24:00. €€. B6 BŁONIA BISTRO Located at the west end of Błonia Meadow in a brand new, oddly narrow brick building, this casual bistro offers affordable family dining in a modern interior of soft, warm lighting with an open kitchen and large pizza oven, plus a glorious outdoor patio. The menu is a long but appealing list covering all aspects of the contemporary European diet - which is to say pizza, pasta, burgers, salads and more - but there are some true standouts like the pulled pork ciabatta, as well as plenty of vegan and gluten-free options. To get there take the tram to ‘Cichy Kącik.’QD‑5, Al. 3 Maja 55, tel. (+48) 12 448 39 10. Open 09:00-22:00. €€. UB BOTTIGLIERIA 1881 Discreetly hidden off Plac Wolnica, this small, intimate wine bar exudes class and taste with a sharp decór of stonework and timber, an open kitchen, VIP service, and an expertly stocked wine cellar with over 450 vintages. Chef Paweł Kras offers signature tasting menus (served from 18:00), and also regularly changes the mercifully concise menu of mouth-watering sous vide dishes, which the deft recommendations of the sommelier perfectly complement. A great place for business or courtship, Bottiglieria received an ‘Award of Excellence’ from Wine Spectator magazine, and also a top local award for their cuisine. Hardly a surprise, since there are few venues in Kraków as beautifully elegant and unique as this one.QK‑9, ul. Bocheńska 5, tel. (+48) 660 66 17 56, www.1881.com.pl. Open 13:00-23:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€.

Restauracja Leonardo ul. Szpitalna 20-22, Kraków +48 12 429 68 50 leonardo.com.pl

ul. Beliny Prażmowskiego 2 D Rondo Mogilskie

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Restaurants BUNKIER CAFE This veteran crossover venue - essentially an enormous year-round terrace on the Planty - continues to be the same perfect place for an early morning paper read, afternoon coffee and cigarette, after-work drink, casual first date, conversational English lesson, or people-watching piwo that it has been since we first published this guide. In addition to good coffee and cakes, however, Bunkier has gone bistro and now offers some of the best budget eats in the area. Drop in for breakfast until 12:00, after which tuck in to tasty burgers, bagel sandwiches, a yummy pulled pork sandwich, fish and chips, salads and more. As a result, we spend more time there now than ever before. QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 3A, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 85, www. bunkiercafe.pl. Open 09:00-23:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:0024:00. €€. XB6 COLOMBE BEER & FOOD NEW Combining craft beer with craft food, Colombe offers 80 different Polish beers (8 on draught) and a curt menu whose selections, not to mention prices, are well pegged for the pub. In addition to the pizza, standouts include the maczanka (stewed pork neck sandwich - a local delicacy) and the pulled pork, which can be ordered as a sandwich or bao (steamed bun). Despite the classy, historic interiors, there’s a casual pub atmosphere, thanks to football league matches on the tele, and the fact that it’s found favour amongst British tourists (the civilised sort). Note that the kitchen closes at 23:00.QI‑6, ul. Gołębia 5, tel. (+48) 535 20 90 00, www.colombeer.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:0002:00. TUBE COPERNICUS Inside one of Kraków’s most exclusive hotels you’ll find one of its most exclusive restaurants, with high-class service inside an elegant gothic interior that features original frescoes. Copernicus is enthusiastically awarded each year, and its gourmet cuisine has been enjoyed by Nobel Prize winners (Miłosz, Szymborska) and political dignitaries (Vaclav Havel, Helmut Kohl) alike. The menu changes every month and is kept simple by Chef Marcin Filipkiewicz who offers a tasting menu of amazing seasonal flavours; choose between 5 (220zł), 7 (300zł) or 12 courses (430zł). At Copernicus you get what you pay for, making it easy to recommend for those on a royal budget.QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 34 21, www.copernicus.hotel.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. TB FIORENTINA Located on a less hectic stretch of ul. Grodzka, this spacious restaurant serving contemporary European cuisine boasts a beautiful seasonal garden and outstanding interior that nicely balances rustic touches (exposed bricks, stripped wood panels) with gleaming silver lamp fixtures and mirrors. The house specialty is Florentine beefsteak, and the focus is various cuts of beef, but don’t miss the unique foie gras. Comfortably casual 92 Kraków In Your Pocket

despite despite highly professional service and exquisite food, this is a fine choice for a relaxing and memorable meal near Wawel.QI‑7, ul. Grodzka 63, tel. (+48) 12 426 46 08, www.fiorentina.com.pl. Open 12:00-16:30, 18:30-23:00. €€€. TU KARAKTER Whatever the magic ingredient is for a successful restaurant, there’s little doubt that Karakter has it. The retro modern interior evoking Miro and Leger possesses a seemingly effortless panache and undeniable appeal. The authorial menu is full of daring dishes that will either make you squirm or salivate. Alongside bull testicle pate, squid tentacles and ostrich gizzards, you’ll find tasty trout ceviche, beef ribs in Guinness sauce, and fresh mussels served eight different ways. Foodies, especially those with buttery-sweet tastes, will be in heaven, though we found some of these inventions are a bit too convoluted. Ideal for a date with wine, the casually dressed staff will assist you in selecting, but make sure you’ve made a reservation if you want a table in this buzzy, ambitious restaurant. QK‑8, ul. Brzozowa 17, tel. (+48) 795 81 81 23. Open 12:00-23:00; Mon 17:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€. T6 KRAKOWSKIE METRO No, Kraków doesn’t have a metro (yet!), but this budget eatery is located directly over a tunnel to the train station that could someday become part of such a subway. Surrounded by offices and drab academic buildings, this funny little historical building on Rondo Mogilskie is the most alluring thing in sight, offering an oasis from the city outside that also happens to serve rather outstanding pizza, pasta and Polish dishes at budget prices. Join their loyal lunch crowd Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00 for excellent daily offers of soup and your choice of entree for only 19.90zł. QM‑4, Al. Płk. Władysława Beliny Prażmowskiego 2D (Rondo Mogilskie), tel. (+48) 888 80 05 00, www. krakowskiemetro.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:0021:00. €€. TUB LEONARDO Making a shift to a more varied menu of European and International cuisine, Leonardo has vaulted itself into conversations about Kraków’s best restaurants, and by our judgement they’ve earned their place. Upon entry a fleet of finely-dressed gentlemen alight upon you, leading you to a suitable table in one of several tastefully decorated dining rooms, including one with a replica of da Vinci’s flying machine overhead. What proceeds is the kind of fivestar fine dining experience that hearkens back to a stately elegance missing from most modern restaurants. We recommend a bottle of white wine and any of the fresh seafood dishes (our scallops were outstanding), or go red with the seasoned Polish beef. A look at the other tables reveals that Leonardo is an ideal choice for romance or impressing business associates.QJ‑5, ul. Szpitalna 20-22, tel. (+48) 12 429 68 50, www.leonardo.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. TU

Restaurants

POD RÓŻĄ RESTAURANT 14 Floriańska Street, Krakow

MODERN POLISH CUISINE

www.likusrestauracje.pl

3 RYBKI RESTAURANT 5 Szczepańska Street, Krakow

BAR & RESTAURANT 13 Main Market Square, Krakow level -1

COPERNICUS RESTAURANT 16 Kanonicza Street, Krakow

krakow.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants NADWIŚLAŃSKA NEW Incredibly popular at all hours, this buzzy ‘Vodka & Resto Bar’ in Podgórze is the current place to be seen in Kraków. In a smart, spacious post-industrial interior crammed with tiny tables and pulsing with house music, Nadwiśłańska offers a wide range of eats - pizza, tapas, mussels, duck and more. The breakfast deals (served until 12:00), followed by lunch specials, are simply tough to beat, but it’s the drinks that make you check your watch and order one anyway. An array of infused vodkas can be had in their sodas, spritzers and outstanding signature cocktails, and the themed tasting boards present an opportunity to experience a range of exotic vodkas. Note that the kitchen closes at 23:00.QL‑9, ul. Nadwiślańska 5, tel. (+48) 698 60 57 00. Open 09:00-00:30. €€€. TUB6

VODKA TRANSLATOR Proven masters of make-do with the potato as their primary resource, the Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world, many of which date back centuries. The two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mixing in cocktails, the real fun is in sampling Poland’s flavoured vodkas and nalewki - a more general term applied to a large range of Polish liqueurs and aged tinctures made from vodka or neutral spirits and fruits, herbs and spices. Here are just some of the more notable varieties you can request at the bar or alcohol shop. Wiśniówka - cherry vodka Cytrynówka - lemon vodka Pigwówka - quince vodka Orzechówka - walnut vodka Piołunówka - wormwood liquor Wódka figowa - fig vodka Wódka śliwkowa - plum vodka Wódka gruszkowa - pear vodka 94 Kraków In Your Pocket

ORZO Literally a breath of fresh air in Zabłocie, Orzo has transformed this large industrial space into an urban oasis of big windows, green walls and potted plants that actually clean the air inside. The menu is an exciting, fusion-flecked affair full of fresh salad bowls, pasta, sandwiches, pizza and steaks, and the house orzo (riceshaped pasta) adds colour to certain dishes to great effect. After work hours, DJs dial up the atmosphere as upstarts from the start-up scene drink smoked cocktails and boozy infusions. Full of bright smiles and bouncy music, Orzo balances smart urbanity with joie de vivre in a way we didn’t realise we were missing until we stepped inside.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 4A, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 42, www.orzo.pl. Open 09:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-01:00. €€€. TUB6 PLAC NOWY 1 Located in a new building buttressing Plac Nowy, this project has won over its initial detractors by adapting to its surroundings with elan, while subtly outclassing them. With a spacious modern high-ceilinged interior full of natural light and plant life, the main menu wanders across cuisines to follow recent food trends (fancy burgers, tempura), but includes uniquely modern takes on Polish classics as well, and they put a big emphasis on craft beer, offering regional beer tasting sets. Earning wide approval, this is arguably the nicest place to eat on Plac Nowy.QK‑8, Pl. Nowy 1, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 00, www.placnowy1.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Thu, Fri 12:00-02:00; Sat 09:00-02:00; Sun 09:0024:00. €€€. TUB STUDIO QULINARNE Housed inside an old bus hangar on the site of the Engineering Museum, Studio Qulinarne has taken this airy industrial interior of bricks and timbers and turned it into one of Kraków’s most elegant dining destinations. Potted plants and illuminated white drapes cleverly hang between fine table settings with refreshingly mismatched 18th century chairs as a pianist plays in the main dining area, and the chefs oversee sizzling pans in the open

Restaurants kitchen. Racking up awards from all of the top gastronomy guides, Qulinarne foregoes the traditional a la carte menu; instead choose your preferred number of courses - 5, 7 or 9 - and let head chef Giacomo Monzali surprise you. With a cellar as good as theirs, paying extra for the wine pairing is highly encouraged.QK‑9, ul. Gazowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 430 69 14, www.studioqulinarne.pl. Open 18:00-21:30; closed Sun. €€€€€. UE SZARA Enviably located right on the market square, Szara’s reputation as one of the best restaurants in town hasn’t wavered over the years and if you’re looking for a place to impress guests or treat yourself to a special ‘last night in town meal,’ this is a sure bet. Gorgeous, painted ceiling arches, crisp linen and outstanding service create an atmosphere of complete elegance, but Szara manages to avoid the stuffiness suffered by other venues of this ilk. Case in point: their modern and casual bar just next door is a smart place to start the day (breakfast served 08:0012:00), or enjoy a cocktail in the evening.QJ‑6, Rynek Główny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 69, www.szara.pl. Open 08:00-22:00. €€€. UB SZARA KAZIMIERZ Opening after its sister establishment on the Rynek, the second Szara achieved local legend status just as quickly. What makes it so special is not the convenient location on Szeroka, nor the swift and bubbly staff, but the food: nowhere in the city can you eat so well for so little. This is top cuisine - try the weekday specials chalked up on the blackboard - yet it comes in at bargain prices. Simple, affordable and very cheerful, all of Kraków should be like this.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12 429 12 19, www. szarakazimierz.pl. Open 11:00-22:00. €€€. B6 TRADYCYJA Though somewhat haunted by the spectres of past incarnations (a pizza oven in the corner goes largely unused), there’s no need to mess with this historic market square locale, which oddly blends old Polish aristocracy with Roman antiquity, including a beautifully painted timber ceiling and an outrageously gaudy chandelier (which we love for just that reason). Like the interior, the simple menu of Polish and Italian dishes seems to have collected the highlights of previous kitchens, but the results cover for the sometimes uneven service, and the prices are well within reason. Keep an ear out for semi-frequent live folk music and dance performances.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 16, www.tradycyja.pl. Open 12:00-22:30. €€. TUBE TRZY RYBKI Hotel Stary won an interior design award in 2007 and the interiors of its ace restaurant are no less awe-inspiring, balancing modern style with the expertly preserved details of this ancient building. Serving fine Modern European cuisine with a Polish twist, the menu changes like the seasons - or with them, rather, meaning a steady krakow.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants effort from the kitchen to use the freshest ingredients. Favoured by high-flyers and local business honchos who have been regulars for years, this is a Kraków gem.QI‑5, ul. Szczepańska 5 (Hotel Stary), tel. (+48) 12 384 08 06, www.likusrestauracje.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. U6

KLEZMER

ITALIAN

Klezmer in Isaac Synagogue

photo by Kamila Łabędzka

Kraków is a hotbed for klezmer music, and attending a concert of this energetic, Eastern-infused folk music is a popular option for tourists. Growing out of the musical tradition of the Ashkenazi Jews of Eastern Europe, the genre was popularised in the 18th century by musical troupes who performed Yiddish dance tunes at weddings and other celebrations. Originating from Jewish devotional music, klezmer evolved significantly at the beginning of the 20th century when it reached the United States via Jewish immigrants, who began to incorporate American jazz music into the sound. After waning in popularity, the genre experienced a revival in the 1970s and 80s as contemporary musicians in the US and Europe were drawn to its strange and forgotten sounds and began investigating its roots. Klezmer’s Polish revival occurred in the 1990s, with its nucleus in Kraków around now-legendary bands Kroke and Bester Quartet (formerly The Cracow Klezmer Band), who brought new energy and interest to the genre, inspiring a new generation of players. Typical instruments in a klezmer ensemble might include violin, clarinet, accordion, trumpet, trombone, double bass or cimbalon (similar to a hammered dulcimer). Today there are dozens of klezmer bands and ensembles performing regularly in the cafes, restaurants, museums and synagogues of Kazimierz the city’s former Jewish district. Ironically, very few of these bands are Jewish, but mostly composed of Polish Catholic graduates of the Kraków Musical Academy who view their sound as Jewish-inspired world music. Nonetheless, klezmer concerts have essentially become incorporated into the city’s Jewish heritage tourism and seeing a performance is a fine way to spend an evening. Concerts occur almost daily in the Jewish restaurants on Kazimierz’s ulica Szeroka; for example Ariel, Klezmer Hois and Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (p.97). 96 Kraków In Your Pocket

BIANCA This small Italian bistro next to St. Mary’s Basilica comes preceded by a big reputation and strong pedigree courtesy of the local dining dynasty behind La Campana and Wesele. No surprise then that our scallops were delicious, and though the side dishes (order one) are almost as large as the pasta dishes, the value is still incredible. Close scrutiny of the relaxed, prevalently white (go figure) interior reveals a high level of perfectionism in each element (don’t fail to notice the hand-painted ceiling), but wisely leaves big impressions to the kitchen situated in full view at the end of the intimate room, where the professionalism of the chefs is on full display. Breakfast available from 10:00 till noon. QJ‑5, Pl. Mariacki 2, tel. (+48) 782 29 77 15, www. biancaristorante.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. €€€. TB BOCCANERA There’s a comfortable familiarity to Boccanera, which neatly slides in at the top of Kraków’s Italian dining hierarchy. We’ve grown happily accustomed to the warm, multi-textured interior, the open kitchen and the well-trained staff. The menu is a largely familiar line-up of simple pasta dishes, seafood and mussels, but our parpadella con manzo was perfect, and we can also vouch for the pizzas. With an absolutely voluminous interior well-suited for large groups, there’s a prevalent mood of merriment throughout, and no denying the value. Though comfort trumps excitement here, they’ve got their formula down, and Kraków is fortunate to have another Italian restaurant of this calibre. Breakfast available from 10:00 till noon.QJ‑5, ul. Tomasza 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 17 08, www.boccanera.pl. Open 10:0023:00. €€€. UBE PIZZATOPIA This casual and cleverly branded pizza joint on bustling ul. Szewska lets you ‘Build Your Own’ pie for a flat 24zł with no limit on ingredients. Choose between the classic or multigrain version of their light, chewy crust, and then from four base sauces, seven different types of cheese (including vegan mozzarella), six kinds of meat, over a dozen veggies, and a dozen finishing sauces. Fast and fired for less than 3 minutes, the menu also includes a few of their own creations, fresh salads, craft beers, and their own sodas. A brilliant concept that’s love at first bite, there’s now a second location at Plac Nowy 4 (K-8). QI‑5, ul. Szewska 22, tel. (+48) 570 06 51 95, www. pizzatopia.com. Open 11:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-01:00. €€. B6

Restaurants JEWISH ARIEL You’ll hear mixed reports about Ariel; while our last visit was underwhelming, we’ve met many who extol the virtues of this veteran restaurant’s varied Jewish cuisine. The setting is typical of the district, with antiques and heirlooms alluding to the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated in a charmingly cluttered style. The live klezmer music is a popular draw and quintessential tourist experience, though you may appreciate it less when you learn you are being charged (25zł) to listen to it. Performances take place daily and reservations are recommended.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 1718, tel. (+48) 12 421 79 20, www.ariel-krakow.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. €€€. BE6 DAWNO TEMU NA KAZIMIERZU (ONCE UPON A TIME IN KAZIMIERZ) From the outside this venue is disguised to look like a row of early 20th century trade shops and is decorated with awnings relating to the area’s Jewish heritage. Things are no less colourful on the inside with mannequins, sewing machines and carpenters’ work surfaces adorning the interiors. A great attempt at capturing the old Kazimierz spirit, and a must-visit for those tracing the district’s past, enjoy live klezmer, folk or ethnic music every evening except Fridays and Saturdays (check their FB page for details).QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 17, www.szeroka1.com. Open 10:00-22:30. €€€. UBE6 KLEZMER HOIS Located in an old former mikveh - a ritual Jewish bath house on ul. Szeroka, this is one of Kazimierz’s most well-established restaurants, and a portal into the dusty sepia days of pre-war Poland. Serving traditional Jewish Galician dishes from the 19th century, the restaurant generally follows kosher rules, though there’s no rabbinical supervision. Incredibly popular klezmer concerts (30zł) take place each evening during dinner at 20:00 - keeping the crowds amused and the wine flowing.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. (+48) 12 411 12 45, www. klezmer.pl. Open 08:00-21:30. €€. BE

MIDDLE EASTERN HAMSA In a district whose eateries still treat Jewishness as a faded sepia part of the past, here’s a restaurant free of nostalgic p re-war décor and wooden roof fiddlers, where ‘Jewish cuisine’ doesn’t mean traditional East European fare. Bright, modern and possessing a beautiful seasonal garden, Hamsa offers a range of authentic Middle Eastern specialties in a casual environment. The mezze sets are perfect for sharing, and not only give you a chance to sample delicious starters like the humus, babaganoush and muhammarah (our fave), but are also beautifully presented in hand-painted dish ware. Fairly-priced and generally a breath of fresh air, Hamsa is a delight.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 2 / ul. Miodowa 41, tel. (+48) 515 15 01 45, www.hamsa.pl. Open 10:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-23:00. €€€. TB6 krakow.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Polish

Restaurant

Traditional Polish food in modern form

Open 09.00 - 22.00, Fri-Sat 09.00 - 24.00 ul. Mikołajska 14, Kraków, tel. 12 430-61-08, brand11 czerwonekorale

POLISH ART RESTAURANT This newcomer has swiftly established itself among the city’s finest restaurants, winning a 2018 World Luxury Restaurant Award for best Polish Cuisine in the world. Such outrageous praise usually precedes disappointment, but Art Restaurant makes and sustains an immediate impression of splendour (enormous crystal chandelier, grand piano). In warm weather, the primary dining area is the courtyard garden full of plants and lanterns, which lighten the formality of the five-star service; in winter the historical ambiance of the 16th century building ably suffices. The wine cellar is exemplary, and the food is Polish at its most modern and innovative; to truly appreciate it should splash out for a tasting menu. Is this the best dining experience in town? The question bears pondering; do yourself a favour, make a reservation, and decide for yourself.QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. (+48) 537 87 21 93, www.artrestauracja.com. Open 13:00-22:00. €€€€. BE CZERWONE KORALE Moving from Sławkowska to this charming old townhouse near Mały Rynek, Czerwone Korale (Red Beads) has kept the namesake wicker-wreath chandeliers wound with bright ribbons and beads, but toned down the folk decor a touch, letting the glass bottle windows and timber beam ceilings speak for 98 Kraków In Your Pocket

themselves. Plenty of colour comes from the kitchen, which serves all the Polish standards, but with some creative innovations and a flair for presentation. There’s an entire page of vegetarian dishes(!) and breakfast until 12:00, after which 19zł lunch deals last until 16:00 (MonFri only). Overall quality of the food makes Czerwone Korale not only a pleasant surprise, but also a great value.QJ‑5, ul. Mikołajska 14, tel. (+48) 12 430 61 08, www.czerwonekorale.com.pl. Open 09:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-24:00. €€. TB FILIPA 18 FOOD WINE ART This small restaurant inside the gorgeously renovated Hotel Indigo offers an intimate gourmet dining experience that actually surpasses its rather modest setting thanks to award-winning head chef Marcin Sołtys. At work in plain view from the open kitchen, Sołtys has cooked for celebrities and diplomats, and the fact that his culinary prowess is now available to anyone in off the street (including you...?) is really quite incredible. Sourced from the Stary Kleparz farmers’ market just around the corner, Sołtys’ concise signature menu transforms traditional Polish tastes into modern delicacies, each presented as its own work of art. Try the tartare, and if you have 3 hours to indulge, go for the full 7-course tasting menu which offers enticements from throughout the entire menu.QJ‑4, ul. Św. Filipa 18, tel. (+48) 12 300 30 30, www.filipa18.com. Open 06:3023:00; Sat, Sun 07:00-23:00. €€€. T

Restaurants L CONCEPT 13 BAR & RESTAURANT Flagship restaurant of the exclusive Likus brand, this upscale eatery in Pasaż 13 serves modern Polish cuisine with Italian influences. Drawing from the exclusive vintages (served by the glass or bottle) and local delicacies of the adjacent delicatessen and wine shop, the dining room features a contemporary open kitchen and minimalist menu that uses fresh seasonal ingredients to create rich, signature dishes. Dining in the cellar of a shopping mall has never been this classy.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 13 (Pasaż 13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 12, www.pasaz-13.pl. Open 09:0022:00; Sun 11:00-19:00. €€€. UB MIÓD MALINA (HONEY RASPBERRY) This cheerful restaurant comes with raspberries painted on the walls and a pleasing glow that illuminates dark evenings. There are floral touches aplenty here, lending an enchanted fairy tale atmosphere, while the menu mixes up the best of Polish and Italian cooking, plus breakfast each day until 12:00. With long standing as one of the best values and top restaurants in town, book ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka views afforded by the raised window-side seating.QJ‑6, ul. Grodzka 40, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 11, www.miodmalina.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. €€€. TUB POD ANIOŁAMI (UNDER THE ANGELS) One of the city’s most historic and charming restaurants, Pod Aniołami offers a quintessentially Cracovian encounter with royal medieval Polish cuisine. Filled with historical artefacts, this cavernous, candle-lit, almost monastic haven is incredibly warm and inviting considering that some of its 13th century dining areas are two levels underground. The extensive menu is an overview of everything that was enjoyed by the Polish nobility in days of old, including special recipes made with actual gold - an homage to the building’s past as a goldsmithy. One of Kraków’s richest restaurant experiences and highly recommended.QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 35, tel. (+48) 12 421 39 99, www.podaniolami. pl. Open 13:00-24:00. €€€€. B6 POD RÓŻĄ (UNDER THE ROSE) Excellent Polish cuisine served under the glass atrium of the magnificent Pod Różą Hotel. The open and elegant design features plenty of potted plants, a piano perched on a raised platform and mezzanine seating overlooking the main floor. In addition to delicious coffees, to-die-for desserts, and an extensive wine list, the menu of seasonally inspired entrees includes a menagerie of perfectly prepared poultry and large game. Prices are high, but then so are the standards.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 14 (Pod Różą Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.likusrestauracje.pl. Open 18:30-23:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-23:00. €€€€. TUE

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“Pod Aniołami – Under the Angels” is an extraordinary place. With its historical 13th-century interiors and brilliant cuisine based on Polish culinary traditions it brings you closer to the medieval city. This place is famed for marinated meats grilled and smoked on hardwood from beech trees, and for other old Polish dishes. Restauracja „Pod Aniołami” ul. Grodzka 35, 31-001 Kraków www.podaniolami.pl e-mail: restauracja@podaniolami.pl tel.:+48/12 421-39-99 / PodAniolamiRestaurant

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Restaurants POD WAWELEM Huge portions of Polish fare cascade off the steel pans and wooden boards they’re served on, while uniformed staff weave between the benches serving frothing steins of beer. Great for groups and families, kids have their own large rumpus area, while the grown-ups soak up the beer hall atmosphere shouting over energetic live folk music. Litre beers are encouraged and half-price on Mondays, and there’s a handy ‘vomitorium’ in the men’s room - i.e, two enormous steel basins for those suffering from overconsumption. Now a second location in the Cloth Hall (Restauracja Sukiennice).QJ‑7, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 23 36, www.podwawelem.eu. Open 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. €€. TUBE QUALITA RESTAURANT In addition to an opportunistic location next door to the ICE Congress Centre, the Q Hotel’s Qualita restaurant has another ace up its sleeve - head chef Marcin Dudek, whose culinary exploits have been awarded by Gault & Millau. Though the modern interior is typical of most hotel restaurants, the mouth-watering menu of contemporary Polish and European dishes is wholly original. Changing regularly, emphasis is put on only the freshest, most highquality local ingredients, plus Polish meads and local craft beers. Drop in any weekday and enjoy two orders of the same dish for the price of one.QH‑9, ul. Wygrana 6 (Q Hotel Plus Kraków), tel. (+48) 12 333 40 20, www. qhotels.pl. Open 13:00-23:00. €€€. TU SCANDALE ROYAL - RESTO & VODKA HOUSE With bowtied waiters, a colour palette of greys and pale blues and a classy art deco design that literally evokes an antiquated vodka label, Scandale Royal captures the aesthetic and atmosphere of 1930s Poland, when socialising took place over long hours between plates of cold tapas and toasts of clear liquids. The menu revives old regional recipes, lending a modern touch to classic Polish dishes like beef tartare, tripe soup and pierogi, while pairing them with an expansive list of high quality distilled alcohols (they have over 80 vodkas!), plus cocktails inspired by the pre-war era. A great place for group feasts, the interior also features a unique balcony level offering great views of Plac Szczepański.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. Open 07:30-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:30-02:00. €€€. XTB SMAKOŁYKI An editorial favourite. Budget food isn’t hard to come by in this town, but when it does, it’s typically service and ambience that you sacrifice for your savings. Not here though. This hip, trendy bistro serves simple, delicious Polish cuisine inside a spacious, slightly urban, slightly retro interior that features a mezzanine and nifty wall art made from pinned string. Daily specials make the deals even sweeter, and plenty of space, plus an abundance of wall plugs and wifi that actually works(!), also make this a great place to work.QH‑5, ul. Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 12 430 30 99, www.smakolyki.eu. Open 08:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-22:00. €€. TE6 100 Kraków In Your Pocket

SMAQ BRASSERIE Q Hotel’s modern restaurant is a place to get acquainted with Polish staples like kotlet schabowy (the famed breaded pork cutlet), sour rye soup with white sausage and multiple types of pierogi, while those with more international tastes can choose from pastas, burgers and steaks. It’s also the best food you’ll get in the area - other options include IKEA meatballs, McD’s, and the shopping mall food court. Breakfast is served bright and early, starting at 6:30 on weekdays and 7:00 on weekends.Qul. Radzikowskiego 142 (Q Hotel Kraków), tel. (+48) 12 333 41 41, www. qhotels.pl. Open 13:00-22:00. €€€. TUB SZARA GĘŚ Inside a historic market square townhouse, ‘The Grey Goose’ has established itself as one of the city’s best places for an exquisite, romantic dinner or special event. The kitchen has carved out a unique niche, offering innovative modern dishes borne out of Polish tradition, with an inclination towards poultry. In fact, go ahead and make your entire meal goosethemed if you can - from the chilled foie gras with white chocolate appetiser (amazing!), to the glazed goose leg, to the signature ‘Szara Gęs’ dessert. Actually resembling an oversized goose egg in a nest, this last invention is so over-the-top you have to love it.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 63 11, www.szarages.com. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. TUB WIERZYNEK Quite a launch party this place: according to legend the opening night back in 1364 was attended by five kings and nine princes. Since then it’s been one esteemed guest after another, with every world leader or A-lister that comes to town taken here to be impressed. The immaculate interiors of original period furnishings, tapestries, oil paintings and timber ceilings aren’t too dissimilar from a tour of Wawel Castle and you can expect a royal treatment from the staff. The seriously high-end menu is based on the traditional feasting habits of the Polish monarchy, but it hasn’t failed to adopt modern influences as well, meaning you’ll eat like a king and remember the experience - one you could only have in Kraków - for quite a long time.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 00, www.wierzynek.pl. Open 13:00-23:00. €€€€. TE ZALIPIANKI A winning project from model turned celebrity chef Ewa Wachowicz, Zalipianki offers contemporary Polish food in a relaxing environment at affordable prices. The feminine interiors feature soft lighting and elaborate hand-painted floral patterns on every wall, before opening into an absolutely lovely year-round terrace right on the Planty. The perfect place to take the parents, the menu turns familiar Polish tastes into something exciting and new - on a cold day, try the zalewajka (a rye soup with smoked meat, bolete mushrooms and potatoes). There’s also a large wine list and selection of local alcohols, including their own house nalewki (tinctures) - finish your meal with a shot of quince or rowanberry liqueur; or get a tasting set of six for 38zł.QI‑5, ul. Szewska 24, tel. (+48) 502 84 55 79, www.zalipianki. pl. Open 09:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-23:00. €€€. TB6

Restaurants

MAIN MARKET SQUARE 13 LEVEL -1 www.likusrestauracje.pl

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Restaurants HEALTHY EATS

Zielone Tarasy

CHIMERA SALAD BAR Sealed off from the elements, this gorgeous courtyard buffet overflows with ambience year round. Full of potted plants, natural sunlight and surrealistic murals, Chimera’s popular salad bar may be the most pleasant budget dining environment in town. Overwhelmingly vegetarian, while it might not be the best food in town, it is fast, cheap and exceedingly easy for foreigners - simply say ‘proszę’ and point at your pick of the salads, quiche, stuffed vegetables and more. Recommended.QI‑5, ul. Św. Anny 3, tel. (+48) 12 292 12 12, www.chimera.com. pl. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. €. B6 VANILLA SKY The flagship restaurant of Art Hotel Niebieski, Vanilla Sky is one of the city’s only restaurants to use only certified organic ingredients, and the chef constructs a tantalising menu of Italian and Polish influenced fusion dishes that change with the seasons and will make you happily commit to the eco-craze. Set in the centre of a spacious dining room on the hotel’s third floor, the welldressed tables circle a gorgeous grand piano on which evening concerts are performed Thu-Sat, as well as Sunday afternoons.QF‑8, ul. Flisacka 3 (Niebieski Art Hotel & Spa), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, www.vanillasky.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€. TUBE ZIELONE TARASY Literally located on the roof of the modern 6-storey Herbewo office building, Zielone Tarasy prides itself on using seasonal, organic locally-sourced ingredients to make fresh meals without microwaves, bleached flour, palm oil or bullion cubes. The menu clearly marks which dishes are vegetarian, vegan, glutenfree, and low-fat, though the range of dishes extends from wholemeal pizzas to grilled tofu to baked salmon, and there are several stellar specials each day. Cheap, healthy and delicious - can it get better? It can. Did we mention that they also do great coffee and cocktails, which you’ll be enjoying on one of their several lush terraces while taking in great views of the Old Town? Recommended.QI‑2, Al. Słowackiego 64, tel. (+48) 12 631 13 00, www.zielone-tarasy.eu. Open 09:0021:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. TB6 102 Kraków In Your Pocket

SPANISH EUSKADI With an expert chef, imported Spanish products and fresh seafood flown in from Venice, this tiny restaurant is Kraków’s only Basque eatery. The menu offers Spanish wines and an exotic range of tapas, the simple descriptions of which don’t do justice to their rich flavour - meat and cheese plates, olives, octopus, fried shrimp (amazing), fried ham croquettes (delicious), rabbit livers (we weren’t brave enough). Designed for sharing, we suggest you order at least four dishes per person, and with each around 24zł, it’s not the cheapest meal out. Still, with its super casual and social atmosphere, Euskadi successfully captures the Spanish approach to dining. Gather a few friends and make a reservation.QK‑10, ul. Kazimierza Brodzińskiego 4, tel. (+48) 535 48 40 56, www.euskadi.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:30. €€. UB

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN KARMA One of Kraków’s most forward-thinking locales, in addition to excellent, free-trade coffee and tea, this modern cafe offers a range of treats for those who have embraced vegan or gluten-free lifestyles. All of the outstanding baked goods, including tarts, cakes and cookies, are made on site, and daily specials include delicious vegetarian soups, stir-fry and curries at great prices. There’s even a breakfast menu, giving you every reason to go early and often. For vegans, vegetarians, and anyone who enjoys great coffee, Karma is a mustvisit.QH‑5, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel. (+48) 662 38 72 81, www.karmaroasters.com. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-19:00. €. TB6 KROWARZYWA VEGAN BURGER Kraków’s cool kids keep queueing out the door for Krowarzywa’s cheap vegan burgers and kebabs. Choose from 5 standard ‘burger’ patties - millet (‘jaglanex’), vegan pastrami, chickpea (‘cieciorex’), veggies and tofu, plus outstanding monthly inventions - pick your sauce and whether you want it in a bun, wrap or bowl, and then leave the rest to the riot grrrls on the grill, whose assembly line efficiency is something to behold. The interior is as simple as the menu, and, as if their hipster cred could possibly be in question, Krowarzywa has their own bottled yerba drink and even a cannabis drink(!). Honestly, we eat here once a week, and it’s encouraging to see a place like this gain traction just off the market square. Check it out. QI‑5, ul. Sławkowska 8, tel. (+48) 531 77 71 36, www. krowarzywa.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. €. T6

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Restaurants MOMO A cheap and cheerful vegetarian/vegan restaurant churning out plates of brown rice, organic vegetable mashes, a good choice of salads, a few Indian and Asian dishes and even kimchee. Popular with left-leaning schoolteachers, the wacky backpacker set and people that refuse to stop smiling, Momo’s prices remain ludicrously cheap and the food is both healthy and worth coming back for. Try the excellent spicy sambar soup and don’t forget to smother your food with their coveted peanut sauce.QJ‑8, ul. Dietla 49, tel. (+48) 609 68 57 75. Open 11:00-20:00. €. 6 POD NORENAMI Proficient in the dark metamorphic magic of the soybean, Pod Norenami’s long menu features tofu, mock chicken and mock beef prepared in an astounding variety of traditional dishes from the kitchens of Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, Korea and China. While some Far East standbys (curries, tempura, sushi, pad Thai) aren’t new to Kraków, a vegetarian restaurant that emphasises mock meat certainly is, and the results have people packing the tables and returning often. A fun place to fool or educate the Polish palate, the interior is modest and casual as opposed to modern and kitsch. Do Kraków’s vegetarians have it hard? Hardly.QH‑5, ul. Krupnicza 6, tel. (+48) 661 21 92 89, www.podnorenami.pl. Open 10:0022:00. €€. TB VEGANIC An outstanding vegan/vegetarian restaurant in the Tytano complex, Veganic possesses both an elegant backdrop for a romantic dinner, and an enormous garden for hipsters hangabouts (and even a playground for their spawn!). A great place to discover new ingredients, enjoy a wide range of excellent, healthy, vegan and glutenfree breakfasts, soups, pastas, shakes and desserts gorgeously presented and quickly-served. temptations are the marinated tofu burger, curried cauliflower and cantelope cocktails. Paired with eco-wines, craft beers or a kale cocktail, it’s impossible to oversell Veganic, which vaults itself to the top of the list of Kraków’s vegetarian restaurants.QH‑5, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 668 46 84 69, www.veganic.com.pl. Open 09:00-22:00; Mon 12:00-22:00; Thu 09:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-24:00. €€. TB6 WIELOPOLE 3 This ‘super foods’ cellar restaurant is super indeed, and consistently surprises. Though randomly located and a bit lacking in atmosphere, the simple and clearly labelled vegetarian, vegan, raw and gluten-free dishes are absolutely gourmet, the service is friendly and the value is just unbeatable. Choose a scrumptious Asian-inspired ‘Buddha Bowl’ or go for the daily lunch special; enjoy a range of hearty raw vegan smoothies or get your greens in the form of a wheatgrass drink. Heartily recommended and here’s hoping it overcomes its obscurity and endures. QJ‑6, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 517 36 69 60. Open 12:00-21:00. €. TU6

Regional products

Fish and seafood

NEW MENU

HOTEL NIEBIESKI ART & SPA Krakow, Salwator ul. Flisacka 3 www.vanilla-sky.pl tel. + 12 297 40 05

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Nightlife

The vast riverside beer garden of Forum Przestrzenie (p.105).

If you believe urban legend (like we do), Kraków has the highest density of bars and clubs in the world. Simply hundreds of drinking dens can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching from the Old Town to Kazimierz and beyond. Keeping them open, of course, are thousands of students, and the millions of tourists that flock to Kraków every year. With increased tourism comes increased prices, however, and these days you can expect to pay 10zł (2.35 Euros) for a large lager these days, and up to 15zl (3.5 Euros) for a craft beer. For clubbing, the main hedonist high streets are Floriańska (J-5) and Szewska (I-5) where nary a medieval cellar will be left unthronged by sexed-up students on a Friday or Saturday night; you can also expect most clubs to charge a cover of anywhere from 5-20zł those nights. While the opening hours we list here are confirmed by the venues themselves, most are rather flexible; basically if people are drinking, the barman is pouring. Unfortunately, space is limited in our print guide, so use our website - iyp.me/krakow - to find reviews of almost every drinking locale in town, and leave us your comments about all of those which you’ve visited. Below is a list of nightlife recommendations depending on what you’re looking for. COCKTAILS The best in town are at Mercy Brown (p.107) - a pseudospeakeasy with 1920s panache, but the current place to be is Nadwiślańska (p.94). Head to Tytano’s Mash Room (p.107) is you want your cocktails on tap or by the caraffe. Finally, for signature drinks down the pub it’s Tram Bar (p.109) every time. 104 Kraków In Your Pocket

CRAFT BEER Microbrews are all the rage in Kraków, so there’s simply no excuse for drinking bad beer anymore. Take your tipples in Colombe (p.92), House of Beer (p.106), Weźże Krafta (p.109) or Nowy Kraftowy (p.108) and you can officially consider yourself a beer snob. COUPLES Couples looking for some face time should buy a bottle of red in the romantic Bottiglieria 1881 (p.91) or more casual BARaWINO (p.108), find a quiet candlelit table in Mleczarnia (p.108), and finish with a nightcap in Mercy Brown (p.107). KAZIMIERZ Kazimierz (p.38) has become known as much for its nightlife as its Jewish heritage. Synonymous with candlelit bars stuffed with antiques and bohemians, where under the stewardship of alcohol one might commune with a lost, forgotten world, check out classic bars in the district like Alchemia (p.105), Eszeweria (p.105), Mleczarnia (p.108) and Singer (p.108). ALL-NIGHTER The clubs we list (p.110) basically roll until dawn, but if you prefer bars, the tabletops turn into dancefloors and Singer (p.108) starts peaking when most bars close. Alchemia (p.105) is also one of the last bars to shutter in Kazmierz, or head to ul. Bożego Ciała (J-8) where you’ll find several dive bars that don’t seem to close. If you still want some company after the sun has come up, find any Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa location (p.81).

Nightlife MUST-TRY ALCOHOLS

SYMBOL KEY N Credit cards not accepted C‑1 Map Coordinate U Facilities for the disabled 6 Animal friendly X Smoking room available

E Live music

B Outside Seating

If you’ve ever witnessed Poland’s success at football, you’ll agree that the country’s national pastime must actually be drinking. Though there are dozens of unique types of alcohol to try while you’re in town (more on p.94), we think these four are the most essential. Na zdrowie!

1. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA

BARS & PUBS ALCHEMIA One of Kraków’s most evocative bars, the aptly-named Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia candlelight, forgotten photographs and antique intrigues of the former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day, in the evenings Alchemia’s murky mystique metamorphoses blood into beer for the ruddy regulars and excitable tourists queuing before the indifferent bar staff. The cellar, when it’s not being used as a student disco, plays host to some of the best concerts in town and is a prime participant in annual jazz and klezmer festivals, and the adjacent Alchemia od Kuchni serves a full menu of excellent eats until 23:00 (24:00 Fri & Sat). Essential in every way.QK‑8, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 22 00, www.alchemia.com.pl. Open 09:00-02:00; Mon 10:00-02:00; Thu 09:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-04:00. XBE ESZEWERIA Perhaps embodying the spirit of Kazimierz more than any bar not directly on Plac Nowy, Eszeweria’s old world antiques, candelabras, frosty mirrors and murky, stencilled walls once played host to some of the city’s most novel concerts, however these days it’s more of a sleepy hangout for hip nostalgics with hand-rolled cigarettes dangling off their lips. Perfect for ducking the tourists, having a quiet drink and catching the vibe of the neighbourhood, the large seasonal garden is lush oasis, and the restroom may be the most romantic in town (no wonder there’s a queue). QK‑8, ul. Józefa 9, tel. (+48) 517 49 19 27. Open 10:0002:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-04:00. NXUB FORUM PRZESTRZENIE In the former reception lobby of the Soviet-era Forum Hotel, this is one of Kraków’s most original, intriguing and effortlessly cool locales. The owners have simply added dozens of bean bags, sofas and a bit of street art sensibility to the original interiors, assembled a highly competent kitchen to create stellar sandwiches, salads and pizzas, stocked the bar with decent beer, and watched the talented, tattooed post-college crowd (“hipsters” you might

Where’s the party? facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket

Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. Though it comes in a variety of flavours, the original orange label (‘tradycyny’) is an aged, amber-coloured liquor flavoured with herbs and spices. Żołądkowa has a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything you’re likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, we prefer it on ice.

2. ŻUBRÓWKA

One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka also known as Bison Grass Vodka - has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to the primeval Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste which has been described as ‘floral’ or having traces of almond or vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka’ or ‘szarlotka’ depending where you are.

3. KRUPNIK

Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet liquor made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking booze doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added.

4. MIÓD PITNY

Mead, or ‘drinkable honey,’ preceded beer’s arrival in Poland and has remained a favourite since the Middle Ages. Since 2008, Polish meads have been protected under EU law as a traditional regional specialty. Distilled from honey, the drink is extremely easy to consume and comes in four strengths with Połtorak being the strongest (15-18%). krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Nightlife call them) turn this vast riverside venue into one of the trendiest places to be day or night. With great views and plenty of space, when it’s warm their huge riverside terrace is sprawling with beach chairs, while inside there’s enough space for ping-pong tables. DJ parties and other events are a constant, making Forum one of the most unpredictable and exciting venues in town.QI‑10, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28, tel. (+48) 515 42 47 24, www.forumprzestrzenie. com. Open 10:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00. BE6 HARD ROCK CAFE Sit back enjoying your cocktail or beer overlooking the market square and Cloth Hall from Hard Rock’s modern split-level bar. The chaps here know how to make that drink and the smiling faces can sometimes be all you need after a long day facing stern museum curators. This is also one of the only places in town that has a ‘happy hour,’ which ironically starts after 22:00 Mon-Thu. Overall, HRC isn’t the cheapest place in town, but it’s one of comfort for many. QJ‑5, Rynek Główny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. Open 10:00-01:00. UB6

BEER GARDENS

Doubting Thomas Lane

Kraków has more bars per capita than any other city in Europe, and most of them produce a garden full of patio furniture the moment the sun comes out. So which to choose? If you want to get away from the market square, Old Town alternatives include the popular nook known as Doubting Thomas Lane (ul. Św. Tomasza, J-5), and Bunkier Cafe (p.84) - a positively huge terrace on the Planty. Track down to Kazimierz, however, to enjoy drinking outdoors at its finest - Plac Nowy (p.42) is an obvious choice, but tables can be hard to find - note that Nowy Kraftowy (p.108) has plenty of space hidden in its courtyard. For the district’s two most atmospheric and evocative gardens head to Mleczarnia (p.108) or Eszeweria (p.105). Also don’t forget ul. Szeroka (p.44) - less lively than Plac Nowy, but less grubby as well, with sun later into the evening. For sheer size try Stara Zajezdnia (p.108), the alleyways of Tytano (p.111), or the sprawling riverside patio attached to Forum Przestrzenie (p.105). 106 Kraków In Your Pocket

HEVRE This former Jewish prayer house has been turned into a tasteful, modern and perfectly Kazimierski restaurant/bar/ club. Though badly damaged during WWII, the interior still retains traces of the original frescos and the mechitza (a balcony for separating men and women), giving it a real feeling of history, as well as a social, uniquely Cracovian atmosphere. The bar is the only place in Kraków to offer Pilsner Urquell straight from the tank - and they do so in three ways, depending on how much you appreciate beer foam. Signature cocktails and stellar Galician cuisine are also served, from breakfast options (served 10:00 - 13:00) to late night appetisers (served until 01:00). On weekends Hevre doubles as a dance-party destination when they open the upstairs and basement levels for DJ-driven raveups.QJ‑8, ul. Meiselsa 18, tel. (+48) 509 41 36 26. Open 09:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-04:00. XBE6 HOUSE OF BEER With over 200 bottles and 21 draught beers over two bars, this high-ceilinged pub full of dark wooden furnishings and large leather sofas helped lead the charge to improve the beer culture of Poland’s drinking capital. Now they’ve gotten even better with a scrumptious selection of hot sandwiches, including multiple pulled pork options, the ‘late breakfast’ egg-cheddar-guac-bacon creation and sweet potato fries as a side. Full of foreigners and locals alike, the atmosphere is friendly without being overly laddish, or having the unnecessary distraction of TVs nattering in the background. Some beers can be a bit pricey so find out what the damage is before asking the barman to unbottle one, or try the local ales on draught for more of a bargain.QJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 35 (entrance from ul. Św. Krzyża 13), tel. (+48) 12 349 05 42, www. houseofbeerkrakow.com. Open 14:00-01:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00-02:00. B

Nightlife

The Best

Guinness

in Poland!!!

Awarded first place for quality in Poland’s Guinness Competition.

ul. Św. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl Open 12:00 – 02:00, Fri, Sat 11: 00 – 02: 00

IRISH PUB POD PAPUGAMI A nice amalgamation of classic Irish pub and Cracovian cellar bar. Over two levels full of wooden fittings, Irish bric-a-brac, a billiards table, darts, plasma screens streaming sports, fresh baked pizza and pints of Murphy’s, Guinness and cider, Pod Papugami has a friendly sociable atmosphere beloved by lads and gentlemen alike. A great place to meet people and find out just what exactly ‘the craic’ is, PP actually captures everything we like about being in an Irish bar.QJ‑5, ul. Św. Jana 18, tel. (+48) 12 422 61 01, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl. Open 12:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-02:00. XUB LOUIS MUSIC CLUB & PUB This intimate venue in the Gothic cellars of a fancy shopping centre has been a favourite after-work sports pub and weekend dance club for over two decades. Louis has earned a devoted and diverse following of over30 locals and internationals with its casual atmosphere, affordable shots and cocktails, friendly bar staff, football on the tele, Monday and Tuesday night karaoke, Wednesday salsa nights, and wild weekend parties when DJs play contemporary dance hits to an energetic, uninhibited crowd. For a cellar club, the high number of totally sexy and yet tastefully dressed locals here on weekends is worth noting, as are the extremely spacious and wellmaintained bathrooms. Worth a visit.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 13, tel. (+48) 12 617 02 22, www.louisclub.pl. Open 16:00-24:00; Thu 16:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-04:00. E

Irish Pub Certified quality Guinness, a wide range of whiskey, live Irish music and live sports on a big screen in a great atmosphere in one of Krakow’s oldest and biggest pubs.

• Two bars • Pool • Darts • SKY – TV (All matches shown)

MASH ROOM This Tytano venue is essentially a cocktail dive bar, whose slightly psychedelic interior includes an odd ceiling canopy made of plastic cups. The only place in town to offer draught cocktails (7 total, 21zł each, carafes 34zł), they invite icons from the club music scene to curate their drinks; the current signature cocktail menu is inspired by psych-trance music and was created in collaboration with Michał Ichniowski (AKA ‘Meff’), a DJ and promoter of Goadupa - PL’s biggest festival of psychedelic culture. Delicious long drinks (21zł) and Czech beer round out the libations list.QG‑4, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10/7B, tel. (+48) 530 05 35 51. Open 16:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-05:00; closed Mon. UB MERCY BROWN This pseudo-speakeasy is Kraków’s best cocktail bar. No joke, the gentlemen that tend bar here are artists and the joy they take in showcasing their talents is palpable; pull up a barstool and don’t miss the show. They make their own tinctures, the liquors are top shelf, and the tidy list of exclusive, artisanal drinks changes regularly; prices start at 24zł, but it’s absolutely worth it. The perfect place for a nightcap, enjoy the dim, decadent 1920s Parisian atmosphere and electro-swing soundtrack, or live jazz on Sundays. Hidden above the Smakołyki restaurant with no outside signage, enter and indicate to the porter at the desk that you’d like to go upstairs; half the fun is the forbidden feeling of finding this place.QH‑5, ul. Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 512 09 10 12. Open 19:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 19:00-03:00; Sun 18:00-23:00; closed Mon, Tue. E krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Nightlife WINE BARS Once the domain of only Kraków’s most elite restaurants, these promethean establishments have stolen the drink of the gods to spread it amongst the dinner-skipping heathens. Ruddy your nose and crimson your teeth in the casual wine bars listed below.

BARaWINO

BARAWINO Occupying an unconventional corner locale near Plac Wolnica, BARaWINO is the first wine bar connected with Kondrat Selected Wines - one of the largest wine importers in Poland. This isn’t the domain of haughty sommeliers and wine snobs, however, but rather a social, laid-back gathering place for friends (not just couples!), who place their orders at the bar and either take their bottle home (at a discount), or relax by the glass in the casual interior. The selection in stock surpasses 200 labels, at least 25 of which are available by the glass at the bar, which also offers some wine snacks. On Tuesdays they have wine promotions, and don’t be surprised to find DJs playing some evenings. A nice reminder that you don’t have to be dressed to the nines to go enjoy a glass of wine.QK‑9, ul. Mostowa 1, tel. (+48) 668 67 17 12. Open 12:00-23:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. BE6 KRAKO SLOW WINES This wine shop and bar is the perfect place to slow down, unwind and recharge after a long, heady trip through Schindler’s Factory - located almost next door. Full of wooden fixtures and natural light, this warehouse space has been transformed into an oasis of good taste, ideal for getting your nose into their outstanding selection of wines from exclusively ecological vineyards (over 100 vintages). Some are certified organic, many are Polish, and all are completely intoxicating, of course. In addition to wine they’ll also please your palette with cheese and meat boards lined with Central Eastern delicacies. A unique place to pass the time, the impression lingers and so did we.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 6F, tel. (+48) 669 22 52 22, www.krakoslowwines.pl. Open 10:00-24:00; Mon, Tue, Sun 10:00-22:00. 6 108 Kraków In Your Pocket

MLECZARNIA This cosy cafe/bar full of worn fabrics, rickety furniture and murky portraits is exactly the place you’d expect to find Bruno Schultz or Witkacy bunched up over a sketchbook or notepad. Full of sunlight in the afternoon, candlelight in the evening, and otherwise unbound by time, Mleczarnia is perfect for daydreaming, catching up on your reading, or sparking a romance. Recommended.QK‑8, ul. Meiselsa 20, tel. (+48) 12 421 85 32, www.mleczarnia.wroclaw.pl. Open 10:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00. B NOWY KRAFTOWY Walk though a completely unassuming doorway hidden in the corner of Plac Nowy, and find yourself teleported to Tytano, Kraków’s urban lifestyle complex on the other side of the Old Town. The resemblance is no accident: the owners here have copied many of the same elements as their hugely successful Tytano venture Weźże Krafta - the industrial decor, splendid year-round outdoor seating (far from the loud drunks queueing up for zapiekanki on the square) and - of course - the multi-tap concept, with 25 rotating beers on tap and more in bottles. There’s even a Big Lebowski neon: ‘Sometimes you eat the bar, sometimes the bar eats you.’ Rather than the bar, if you’re hungry they offer pizza, burgers and other grub on-site as well. QK‑8, Plac Nowy 8, tel. (+48) 12 307 40 40. Open 15:00-01:00; Fri 15:00-02:00; Sat 13:00-02:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. Opening hours may be subject to change. B6 SHISHA CLUB BY BOLLYWOOD An Indian-owned den of oriental exotica, Shisha Club’s cup runneth over with draped fabrics, oriental rugs, stained glass lanterns, colourful cushions and intricate tiles. Navigate an underground labyrinth of dimly-lit rooms before settling down in the plush nook of your choice and selecting from five flavours of tobacco (39zł and up), plus drinks from the full bar. Ideal for a quiet make out session with your Queen Jasmine, or a sedated evening with friends.QJ‑5, Mały Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 536 25 96 42. Open 16:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-02:00. X SINGER One of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer essentially invented the evocative aesthetic of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, rickety antiques and candlelight associated with the district today. A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by day, Singer hits its stride around 03:00 when tabletops turn into dancefloors, the regulars abandon their drinks to dip and spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy, klezmer, celtic and swing music, the entire bar begins to feel like a Ferris wheel ready to fly off its axis and the boundaries of time are obliterated. Yeah, we’ve had a few good ones here. QK‑8, ul. Izaaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 06 22. Open 09:0003:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-06:00. XB STARA ZAJEZDNIA (THE OLD DEPOT) This old tram depot has assumed a second life as Kraków’s biggest brewery and beer hall. A large complex of cavernous brick and timber buildings, Stara

Nightlife Zajezdnia’s size is both a blessing and a curse, as even the smaller out-buildings can feel pretty lonely without a large party inside, but if you happen to be in one, do bring it here. Flat-screens beam football and the beers they brew on-site do well to wash down the traditional Polish fare. Also don’t overlook the menu of single malt whiskies if you want to beat your friends in the race to be first under the table.QK‑9, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 12, tel. (+48) 664 32 39 88, www.starazajezdniakrakow.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:0022:00. TUB6

Mon - Wed 16:00-01:00 Thu, Fri 16:00-02:00 Sat 14:00-02:00 Sun 14:00-01:00

TRAM BAR Though looking like a downtrodden dive bar in the midst of the drunken late night din, Tram Bar actually serves as a sophisticated escape from the shenanigans taking place just beyond its door. In stark contrast to the 4zł beers across the passageway, the focus here is on signature cocktails (20zł+ each), mixed drinks and one of the most wellstocked bars in the Old Town (over 180 different types of alcohol!). A veteran of Kraków’s bar scene, Tram Bar also looks and feels like a local classic, filled with antique tram benches, luggage racks and Golden Oldies descending from the stereo. More pub than lounge, here you can escape the sloppy student crowds, fashionistas and tryhard hipsters who make so many other places in the city unbearable.QC‑3, ul. Stolarska 5, tel. (+48) 730 33 15 32. Open 17:00-04:00; Sat, Sun 17:00-05:00. B6 WEŹŻE KRAFTA Located at the heart of the hip Tytano complex, Weźże is Kraków’s largest multitap bar, offering 25 craft beers in rotation on draught, plus more in bottles. With an industrial interior of unplastered bricks, columns supporting the ceiling beams, and leather seating, this is a flophouse for hopheads, which spills outside into the adjacent alleys. Though often crowded, Weźże feels like a cool oasis of civil camaraderie. One of the city’s trendiest drinking destinations, if you appreciate your ale, you should absolutely seek it out.QG‑4, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10/3, tel. (+48) 12 307 40 50, www.wezze-krafta.ontap.pl. Open 16:00-01:00; Thu, Fri 16:00-02:00; Sat 14:00-02:00; Sun 14:00-01:00. B6 WIŚNIOFFKA NEW This Kazimierz hole-in-the-wall bar specialises in wiśniówka, otherwise known as cherry vodka, which they make locally themselves from exactly three ingredients: alcohol, sugar and cherries (no water!). It’s 17.5% and is only served in 100ml glasses with two infused cherries at the bottom for 11zł. That’s a quantity for sipping, not shooting, thus civilising this popular but typically unruly Polish vodka. If you’re looking to lean into a stiff, sweet local drink, this would be the place to do it. As a bar it can get loud, features black walls, swinging tables suspended from the ceiling, and basically nowhere to sit, but you can take a handsome half-litre bottle home for 59zł.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 5, tel. (+48) 690 02 25 47, www.wisnioffka.pl. Open 17:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 15:00-22:00. UB6

Luxury Shisha Club in town Maly Rynek 2-3, 31-041 Kraków tel. (+48) 536 25 96 42 manager@shishaclub.pl www.shishaclub.pl

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Nightlife LATE NIGHT EATS

CLUBS

Śledź u Fryjzera

BACCARAT Walk beyond the velvet rope of Baccarat and you notice one thing immediately: a lot of money has gone into making this one of the most stylish and extravagant music clubs in Kraków. Covered in plush upholstery and full of fine touches - including every elegant chandelier and lamp, the giant mirrorball DJ station and sensual decor of the intimate VIP spaces (including one with a dance pole and giant wall mirror that can be coyly curtained off) - Baccarat’s 500 square metres of sophisticated space clearly raise the bar on Kraków’s nightlife scene. Expect to pay a small cover after 23:00.QJ‑6, ul. Stolarska 13, tel. (+48) 695 11 67 60, www.baccaratclub.pl. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00 only. XW

When it comes to late night drunk food, Kraków has you covered. You’ll find kebab stands up and down popular nightlife thoroughfares like ul. Floriańska (J5) and ul. Szewska (I-5), but PL’s most popular street food is the ‘zapiekanka’ (p.79) and the best place to get one is Kazimierz’s Plac Nowy (K-8), whose food hatches generally stay open until at least 02:00. Of course there’s also Kraków’s famous sidewalk sausage stand (K-6, p.79), and the 24hr vodka and herring bars (p.81) when all else fails. PAPITO’S Attached to the Teatro Cubano music club (p.111), Papitos offers bender-sustaining 4-bite burgers (50g patties, 5-7zł), fries, cheap beer and mojitos in a lively atmosphere of salsa music and students. Solid food is a necessity, after all, and Papitos allows you to order only as much as you need, and get it into your system quickly without slowing your alcohol intake. Tasty and cheap, have a seat outside in the passageway to feel like you’re still at the centre of the party.QI‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 10, tel. (+48) 660 56 21 00. Open 09:0003:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-04:00. €. XS PRZYPIECEK This no-fuss all-night pierogi bar offers a surprisingly large range of stuffings. Sure, it’s not as fast as a kebab, but it’s a better value, better quality, and they even have tables to sit at. At the end of a night of clubbing, there are few better places for filling your stomach. QJ‑4, ul. Sławkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95. Open 24hrs. €. B ŚLEDŹ U FRYZJERA This offshoot of Ambasada Śledzia is our favourite vodka and herring bar, particularly when it comes to food. Serving pickled herring (śledź, 10zł) in almost as many ways as there are flavours of vodka to wash it down (5zł), they also offer hot dishes, soups and casseroles. Though it gets crazier and more crowded as the night wears on, this is one of the best for a late night feed, and right in the centre.QJ‑6, ul. Stolarska 5. Open 12:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-06:00. B 110 Kraków In Your Pocket

COCO MUSIC CLUB Across from Słowacki Theatre, this popular hard-partying student club features 3 bars, 2 dancefloors, a VIP area, and smoking room, plus plenty of mirrors and pointless TVs. Epic every night, including Wednesdays when they offer 4 beers for only 10zł, things really takes flight after midnight, with a heady mix of locals and foreigners mingling on the dance-floor and around the booths until early morning. A solid bet for a successful night out.QJ‑5, ul. Szpitalna 38, tel. (+48) 12 429 69 83, www.clubcoco.pl. Open 22:0006:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PXE KLUB 30 If you’re tired of mingling with students and backpackers, or generally feeling like a geezer when you want to hit the town, we have a somewhat surprising recommendation - Kraków’s largest club. With four floors covering over 1000m2 of sleek walls, modern lighting, and plush colourful surfaces, Klub 30 looks the part of a cutting edge club, and despite a strict 25+ policy at the door, its popularity actually overcomes its size. The music is hardly groundbreaking, but you have three dance-floors to choose from - each with their own bar and distinct music - and a there’s smoking lounge at the top. Instead of feeling like you have to prove you can keep up with the kids, here’s a club where you can enjoy behaving like one amongst your peers.QG‑7, ul. Kościuszki 3, tel. (+48) 725 70 02 15, www.krakow.klub30.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 21:00 - 04:00. X LOKAL A vast, cavernous and circuitous cellar club right on the Rynek that features 3 bars, 2 dancefloors, a smoking room, plenty of snogging nooks and nightly parties that are always free, Lokal achieves an all-inclusive atmosphere that somehow maintains a shred of urban cool, despite the inebriated exuberance of the sexily-dressed students that make up the crowd. The design isn’t much aside from the medieval foundations, sponsorship swag and epileptic LEDS, and the booming music is mostly contemporary chest-bouncing dance hits, but anyone looking for a full aviary of young birds to chirp to will be well-pleased.QJ‑5, Rynek Główny 6 (entrance from ul. Sienna), tel. (+48) 519 08 96 58. Open 12:00-01:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00. XB

Nightlife PROZAK 2.0 At once a honey-trap for horny foreigners hoping to ‘pull’ from the pool of bottle blondes happily putting drinks on their tabs, and a haven for savants for whom clubbing is ‘about the music,’ Prozak has lived on the cutting edge of Krakow’s clubbing scene for over a decade with an impressive line-up of top DJs on weekends, and probably the best sound system in town. The interior is an endless maze of underground rooms over two levels with an incredible four bars and three dance-floors on which to wild out. The crowd is just as fun, flirty and foreignfriendly as ever, with the party continuing until the natural selection of those with kittens and those with kebabs takes place in the blurry light of another dawn.QJ‑6, Pl. Dominikański 6, tel. (+48) 733 70 46 50, www.prozakdwazero.pl. Open 22:3004:00; Fri, Sat 22:30-07:00. X SHINE CLUB KRAKÓW One of Kraków’s most exclusive and fashionable clubs, Shine hosts top DJs and modelling agencies at their weekend parties which range from elaborate circus shows to silly wet t-shirt contests. Located in a 1,000m2 former cinema, this enormous space features 3 bars, 3 dancefloors (one of which is VIP), a smoking area, and enough blinking LEDs lights to send the blind into epileptic fits. The music is mostly house and r’n’b, and the modern design is truly impressive, trumped only by the seductive patrons who you’d almost suspect must be getting paid to populate the background of your own private Polish fantasy. Expect a 10-20zł cover at the door.QK‑6, ul. Starowiślna 16, tel. (+48) 725 70 02 25, www.krakow. shineclub.com.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 05:00. X SPOŁEM DELUXE This communist-themed club is plastered with surprisingly stylish Soviet-era wallpaper patterns, neons, and other colourful kitsch. There’s a separate space for smoking and a mercifully self-contained dance area where the DJ spins nostalgic pop hits inside a 1968 van, but without making conversation elsewhere impossible. Though there’s a dance party every night (except Mon & Wed, which host karaoke), craft beers and boardgames further let you know that this isn’t a typical nightclub, but one where you can come as you are (no cover!) and only hit the dancefloor if the mood strikes you. That’s our kind of place.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 53, tel. (+48) 12 341 57 51. Open 18:00 - 03:00; Wed, Thu 18:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00; Sun 18:00 - 02:00. X TEATRO CUBANO Successfully simulating the sultry atmosphere of a Havana side-street as you shuffle through the crowded alleyway into the rhythmic club, this vivacious venue is a forceful breath of fresh air. Full of students and travellers from the upstairs hostel, get your buzz on with cheap beer and mixed drinks, and you can order platters of sliders (miniburgers) from Papitos next door. Live music every day and DJs into the wee hours - check their FB page to see what’s on. Diversity is something Kraków could use more of, and this place embraces it.QI‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 10, tel. (+48) 795 19 11 70. Open 17:00-04:00; Wed, Thu 17:00-05:00; Fri 15:00-06:00; Sat 17:00-06:00. XE

TYTANO

After lying derelict for decades, this former tobacco factory just west of the Old Town has transformed into an artsy, off-beat nightlife and alt-culture complex. Inhabiting 6 buildings and 15,000m2, Tytano’s postindustrial allure has attracted dozens of original bars, restaurants and shops with their fingers on the pulse of current urban culture trends, making this ‘city within the city’ the current place to be in Kraków. Make sure you visit. Tytano venues of note include Cargo (p.87), Veganic (p.103), Mash Room (p.107), and Weźże Krafta (p.109).

VICE ADVICE Boys will be boys they say, and the shocking growth of strip clubs inside the UNESCO-listed Old Town in recent years would seem to confirm that men do indeed become lads when abroad without their WAGs. Unfortunately, with the increase in naughty clubs have come increasingly frequent reports of scams and shady, sometimes dangerous dealings. You’ve likely heard stories of inflated tabs, thuggish bouncers, unauthorised charges and spiked drinks - unfortunately these are not rumours, but real threats you need to guard yourself against because the local authorities seem either unable or unwilling to stop them. With the speed that local strip clubs now earn bad reputations and reinvent themselves, we simply can’t police them ourselves, and we don’t feel comfortable recommending any particular club to our readers. Our advice is to not feed this industry, whose treatment of its own employees is rarely better than that of its guests. If you do, however, decide to visit a strip club in Kraków, we advise you to mind your manners, deal only in cash if possible, don’t let anyone outside your group order drinks for you, and generally keep your wits about you. By doing so you’ll be doing the important research we ourselves once did, but understand that you won’t be doing it on our recommendation. krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Polish Design & Gifts The profile of Polish design has raised considerably in recent years as both classical and contemporary Polish designs are receiving international attention. Traditional Polish folk motifs and communist-era designs are finding new life in contemporary contexts, and Polish design firms are spearheading current trends in sustainable design, urban apparel, minimalist decor and more. Here are some of the best places in Kraków to shop and discover Polish design. KOKOWORLD Dedicated to ethical, eco-friendly, fair trade fashion, this local brand connects craftsmen from Africa, Asia and South America with Polish tailors and designers. Handmade from natural materials, KOKOworld’s dresses, sweaters, hoodies, jackets and jewellery possess a uniquely ethno, but distincty urban, multicultural aesthetic, and their showroom brings the colours, fabrics, patterns and cultures of developing countries closer to Europeans.QK‑7, ul. Starowiślna 19, tel. (+48) 505 37 38 78, www.kokoworld.pl. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. From May open 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; closed Sun.

MARKA CONCEPT STORE This concept shop has basically become an ambassador for Polish design, scouting and promoting Polish brands at fairs and conferences, and partnering with a plethora of Poland’s best artists and designers. You’ll find hundreds of high quality items - ranging from designer furniture and lighting to jewellery, graphics, ceramics, books, bedding and more - for sale in their smart showroom on ul. Józefa’s ‘Design Row,’ as well in as their vast online shop.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 5, tel. (+48) 602 41 50 89, www.marka-conceptstore.pl. Open 12:00-18:00; Sat 11:0017:00; Sun 11:00-16:00.

PUNCA Frustrated by the high number of items in Kraków’s Cloth Hall not produced in Poland, Punca’s mission became clear: create a place where shoppers could be confident that every item is exclusively designed and produced in Poland. Working with Polish designers to create interior and lifestyle accessories under the Studio Punca brand, this concept store showcases an eclectic range of products: elegant crystal glass, modern jewellery, porcelain, pottery, art objects, textiles and more.QJ‑8, ul. Józefa 3, tel. (+48) 603 50 52 01, www.punca.com.pl. Open 11:0018:00; closed Sun. From May open 11:00-19:00; closed Sun. 112 Kraków In Your Pocket

THE HIVE This Kraków-based clothing brand creates simple, classic, mostly monochromatic urban wear for both sexes that doesn’t care for or cater to contemporary fashion trends, but rather rebelliously inhabits a certain timelessness. With edgy touches of punk, pirate and military fashion, this is for those that dig big boots, studded belts and black stripes. All their clothes are not only designed, but also sown locally, and their Kazimierz showroom is aptly minimal and...well, literally underground.QK‑9, ul. Gazowa 11, www.thehiveclothing.eu. Open 12:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-18:00; closed Sun.

SŁOŃ TORBALSKI Makers of unique, handmade leather handbags since 1997, the name of this popular local brand is based on wordplay from a beloved Polish childrens’ story. Tourists will appreciate not only the quality, but especially the Folk Collection based on traditional Małopolska folk art - another reason why Słoń Torbalski has represented Kraków at numerous European fashion fairs. Also at ul. Kamieńskiego 11 (Bonarka City Centre) and ul. Stawowa 61 (Galeria Bronowice).QI‑5, ul. Sławkowska 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 26, www.slontorbalski.pl. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:0015:00; closed Sun.

SYNCRET This outstanding shop specialises in vintage and modern fine jewellery, made on-site in their workshop, with only truly exceptional diamonds and natural stones - all of which come with valuation documents. Special collections include one dedicated to Chopin using antique coins with the pianist’s image. The personalised customer service is a cut above the competition - they will work with you to design and create the perfect setting for the stone of your choice, and even resize it for free at a later date.QI‑6, ul. Bracka 8, tel. (+48) 797 65 70 80, www.syncret. com. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00; closed Sun. krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Shopping

Inspired globally but designed locally, check out Kraków’s Mapaya (p.116) fashion brand.

While Kraków can hardly be considered a shoppers’ paradise in the traditional sense, its artsy reputation makes it a great place to pick up antiques, artwork and jewellery. Areas of note include Kazimerz’s ulica Józefa (K-8), which is lined with galleries, while the Cloth Hall (open roughly 10:00 - 20:00, I-5) in the middle of the market square is obvious for typical local souvenirs. For the generic western experience you can hit one of the shopping malls we list, however throughout this section we’ve made a concentrated effort to focus not on recognised, international brands and franchises, but unique, homegrown businesses; so we encourage you to put your money where their mouth is. You’ll find more local gift ideas and direct buying opportunities online in the Poland IYP Shop: iyp.me/polandshop.

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but since March 2018 new regulations that will eventually ban Sunday trading in Poland entirely have gone into effect. Throughout 2019, trade will only be allowed on the last Sunday of each month. There are only a few exemptions to the rule, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets and souvenir shops (oh thank god). Note that the Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep only on those Sundays when trade is allowed. The following is a list of Sundays when shops are allowed to be OPEN: April 14, 28 | May 26 | June 30 114 Kraków In Your Pocket

AMBER & JEWELLERY BLAZKO Don’t fancy amber? Not a problem. Head down to Kazimierz’s artistic Józefa Street and drop in on Grzegorz Błażko - a Polish artist and designer, well-known and admired for his unique, colourful, high quality jewellery. Working in silver, brass, synthetic materials and acrylic, Błażko creates beautiful, highly sought-after rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings and more, in which you might notice touches of Hundertwasser, Miro and Klimt. Quite a character himself, his store is also his workshop, so a visit is an intimate encounter with the artist at his craft.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 11, tel. (+48) 579 05 64 56, www.blazko.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-15:00. LILOU This Polish jewellery brand has become popular across the world for their customised jewellery - primarily pendants, charms and chains - which can be engraved on-site with whatever personalised message you’re able to dream up. Glamorous but not intimidating, Lilou jewellery is made of 14 karat gold, 925 silver or 23 karat plated-gold, and their Kraków boutique is staffed by immaculately-attired ladies keen to assist you with your decision.QJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 27, tel. (+48) 12 312 13 93, www.lilouparis. com. Open 11:00-19:00.

Save space and time by shopping online: iyp.me/polandshop

Shopping GALERIA ORA Our personal go-to gift shop whenever pesky hallmark holidays or anniversaries rear their obligation-inducing heads, Galeria Ora features a great selection of unique jewellery for both sexes, the high originality and artistic value of which sets it apart. Of particular interest is their use of oxidisation to create a more earthy aesthetic from precious metals. Just steps from the market square, this is the perfect place to find an interesting gift and prices are well within reason. Also note that despite PL’s Sunday trade ban, Ora is open every Sunday.QI‑5, ul. Św. Anny 3, tel. (+48) 781 66 12 12, www.galeria-ora.com. Open 10:0019:00; Sat 10:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-16:00. WORLD OF AMBER Like a mosquito encased in golden resin, amber is inextricable from the history of Poland and Kraków. Baltic amber is the most desired of all, and tourist-laden Kraków’s location on the Amber Route means you’ve got one of the best selections in the world, crafted by master jewellers. Truth in advertising, this Schubert showcase shop really is a wondrous world of amber, with items ranging from rings and pendants to dragons and chess sets. Also at ul. Floriańska 13 and 22 (J-5), and ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Hotel, H-7).QJ‑6, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 12 430 21 14, www. worldofamber.pl. Open 09:00-20:00.

ART & ANTIQUES

Shop s all thing ! Poland

GIFTS, CITY GUIDES, EXPERIENCES, SOUVENIRS & MORE. iyp.me/polandshop

DYDO POSTER GALLERY If you have an eye and appreciation for graphics, you should know that Poland has a long tradition of graphic art, particularly posters for film, theatre and advertising. This gallery in the former Cracovia Hotel expands on the small family gallery in the Old Town (ul. Stolarska 8-10, J-6) with proper wall space for some of the prints on sale and changing poster exhibits, plus binders upon binders of what else is available, not to mention stacks of postcards for those not ready to travel with a poster tube. Check out awesome and relatively unknown Polish designs for beloved Hollywood films and famous stage productions. We guarantee you’ll find something you like, and these unique (and even rare in some cases) posters make great souvenirs and keepsakes.QG‑6, ul. Focha 1 (Hotel Cracovia), tel. (+48) 790 79 22 44, www.dydopostergallery.com. Open 14:30-18:30; closed Mon, Sun. GALERIA LUELUE This charming photography gallery/shop embraces a pre-war sepia-toned perspective on Kraków through old photographs, paintings, postcards and posters, offset by more cheeky graphic designs from contemporary artists. With an emphasis on early urbania, architecture and romance, this is a great place to pick up high-quality reproductions of nostalgic photographs printed on canvas, or even on linen shoulder bags. They’ll even print your own images and designs if you upload them on their website. QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 22, tel. (+48) 728 55 10 24, www. luelue.pl. Open 09:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-19:00. From May open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. krakow.inyourpocket.com

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Shopping BOOKS IN ENGLISH Kraków truly is a city of literature - a local bragging point legitimised by the fact that the first books in the Polish language were published here (back in the 16th century), it was here that the first bookstore in Europe was opened (at Rynek Główny 23, C-3, now Empik bookstore), Kraków has been home to many of the country’s most famous authors (including Nobel prize winners Wisława Szymborska and Czesław Miłosz), hosts numerous literary festivals and events throughout the year and is home to dozens of literary cafes. Kraków’s literary reputation was cemented in October 2013 when it became a UNESCO City of Literature - the first on mainland Europe. Learn more: iyp.me/krakowcityoflit ATOM COMICS Congratulations, True Believers: Kraków has a proper comic book store for English speakers. Inside Atom you’ll find current English language issues of all the latest series, plus shelves of graphic novels, posters, figurines and other pop culture paraphernalia. Every fanboy’s dream come true, right near the train station. Excelsior! QK‑4, ul. Lubicz 3/5, tel. (+48) 795 44 14 24, www.atomcomics.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Mon, Tue 12:00-18:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun. GALICIA JEWISH MUSEUM BOOKSHOP This popular museum in Kazimierz is also home to the largest Jewish bookshop in Poland, with thousands of titles in Polish, English, German, Italian and French. Ranging from their own museum publications to novels, memoirs, photo albums and guidebooks, plus some other souvenirs - everything is also available to order online and can be shipped internationally.QL‑8, ul. Dajwór 18, tel. (+48) 12 422 17 36, www.galiciajewishmuseum.org. Open 10:00-18:00. MASSOLIT BOOKS & CAFÉ Arguably the best English-language bookstore in Central Europe, owing in large part to its unique cafe atmosphere. With books on all subjects and specialising in Polish, East European and Jewish literature, here you’ll also find recent English language periodicals (store copies) to peruse over coffee or wine, with a bagel or slice of pie. The selection is surprisingly good, and the prices are the best you’ll find anywhere. If you’re on an extreme budget you can even trade the novel you finished on the train for credit towards a new one. Also look for their bakery nearby at ul. Smoleńsk 17 (H-6), and bistro in Kazimierz (K-8).QH‑6, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel. (+48) 12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00. 116 Kraków In Your Pocket

FASHION & ACCESSORIES CHORĄŻY CAPS & HATS Maybe you aren’t aware, but Polish old man hats are surprisingly stylish and this family shop is where to get one. Affectionately known as ‘the Hat Guy,’ give Józef the hatmaker a head and he’ll hand you a handsome, perfectly fitting hat. Bring in your own fabric and he’ll even custom make one for you. With Józef’s name and his shop’s Cracovian address sewn into each one, these hats make a great gift and keepsake, as well as being evidence of a world that is rapidly vanishing. And they’re a bargain. Józef doesn’t speak English, but there shouldn’t be much mystery between the two of you; it’s not like you’re trying to draft legislation - it’s a hat, he’s a hatmaker. QJ‑9, ul. Krakowska 35A, tel. (+48) 608 28 26 31, www. czapkichorazy.prv.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. IDEA FIX CONCEPT STORE The ‘idea’ here is promoting contemporary, young, independent Polish artists and designers - and for once we’re not talking about painted angels or folk pottery. This shop is straight Soho (NYC) with an alternative urban chic style and attitude that will hopefully encourage Kraków’s hundreds of DJs to pick up their duds somewhere other than H&M. Championing sustainable consumption, drop in this small, stylish concept store to check out clothing and accessories by independent local designers, Polish fibre arts, interior design and more.Qul. Stradomska 16, tel. (+48) 515 54 52 52, www.ideafix.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-18:00. MAPAYA NEW This eye-catching clothing brand takes inspiration from international travel, exotic textiles and natural dying techniques to create a striking fashion brand in which every piece is unique and also easily identified with the brand. Mapaya offers free-flowing, eclectically patterned tunics, dresses, kimonos, kaftans, tops, skirts, shirts and pants, as well as accessories and jewellery. Designed in collaboration with selected craftsmen from across the globe, and handmade from natural materials, it’s easy to see how the background of creator Martyna Wilde - who studied Fashion Theory and Cultural Studies at Jagiellonian University, and is also a yoga instructor - informs the brand’s commitment to comfort, universal forms, freedom of movement and fair trade. Dominated by earthy colours, Mapaya’s style could be summarised as contemporary urban ethno grunge. Visit their lovely boutique on ul. Józefa’s ‘Design Row’ to see for yourself, or shop their styles online.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 3, tel. (+48) 501 35 14 44, www.mapaya.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Sun. ROCK SHOP You know a city has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe, and is there anything which says ‘I’ve been there’ more than a Hard Rock t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the ‘Kraków’ tee to add to your collection at the shop inside the HRC opposite St. Mary’s Basilica. Classic white may cost 100zł, but the memory of buying it - priceless.QJ‑5, Rynek Główny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, www.hardrock.com/ krakow. Open 10:00-24:00.

Shopping

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang. Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand. Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls. Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry.

KRAKÓW, 27 Świętego Tomasza Street lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

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Shopping OPEN-AIR MARKETS

Stary Kleparz

Kraków’s markets are the best places to get local fruit and produce beyond the selection of strictly white root veggies found in most shops. Add to that meats, cheeses, doorknobs, dog leashes, pagers, potholders and literally anything else you can think of and you’ve got yourself a nifty cultural experience as well. PLAC NOWY This historic square was a Jewish market in the pre-war days, with its rotunda serving as a kosher slaughterhouse. Today you’ll still find butcher shops inside, while fast food windows line the exterior. In the open trading stalls surrounding the roundhouse produce and junk are sold daily, but in the mornings you never know what you’ll find: Saturdays are junk/ antiques, on Sundays it’s all clothing, while Friday mornings it’s a full-on pigeon fair from 05:30 to 08:00. Other markets begin around 08:00 and generally end by early to mid-afternoon.QK‑8, www.placnowy.pl. PLAC TARGOWY UNITARG Open every day with everything from fruit, flowers and produce to pirated DVDs, dodgy underwear and cheap wristwatches, on Sundays this popular outdoor market becomes a sprawling full-blown flea market of antiques, Catholic icons, village detritus, vinyl records, war memorabilia, stolen bikes and pretty much anything you can dream of at negotiable prices. Different vendors set their own hours, but on weekends most are here shortly after dawn and packing up anytime between 14:00 and sunset.QK‑6, ul. Grzegórzecka, tel. (+48) 12 429 61 55, www.unitarg.krakow.pl. STARY KLEPARZ A tradition of over 800 years, this large, covered marketplace just north of the Barbican offers bargain prices and the best selection in the city for local produce, fruit, meat and cheeses, in addition to spices, socks, sweaters and whatever oddball commodities are the order of the day during your visit.QJ‑4, Rynek Kleparski 20, tel. (+48) 12 634 15 32, www. starykleparz.com. Open 07:00-18:00; Sat 07:0015:00; Sun 08:00-15:00. 118 Kraków In Your Pocket

FOOD & ALCOHOL DELIKATESY 13 Located in the basement of Kraków’s nicest, most central shopping mall, this Italian delicatessen offers a wide range of high-quality edible goods including over 100 varieties of Italian cheese and meats, parma ham, truffles, cooking oils and balsamic vinaigrettes, as well as delicious locallymade preservative free honeys and jams. Pies, pastries and cakes are also made daily. The ideal place to go if you’re planning an intimate dinner party, Delikatesy 13 is packed with outstanding goods, and the adjacent wine shop offers a top selection.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 13 (Pasaż 13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 27, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open 09:0021:00; Sun 11:00-17:00. KOPERNIK A tradition dating back to the 15th century, gingerbread from Toruń - in northern PL - is world-renowned and you can purchase their range of novelty sweets in Kraków at this enticing shop. They are also open every Sunday despite the trade ban.QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 14, tel. (+48) 12 431 13 06, www.kopernik.com.pl. Open 10:00-19:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-20:00. PRODUKTY BENEDYKTYŃSKIE This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey just outside Kraków, sells such an astounding variety of products - cheese, jam, wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two eyebrows over how they find the time. All the products are completely natural, without pigment and make excellent gifts. Naturally, you can also get them online or straight from their source: Tyniec Abbey. QJ‑9, ul. Krakowska 29, tel. (+48) 12 422 02 16, www. produktybenedyktynskie.com.pl. Open 09:30-18:00; Sat 09:30-14:00; closed Sun. SZAMBELAN A huge selection of special vodkas, meads and Polish absinthes decanted from enormous Erlenmeyer flasks. The exotic bottles make for ideal last minute gifts which they can ship for you, or go ghetto fab by refilling a plastic bottle and stuffing it in your luggage (or just strolling the Planty... wait, no). Sample first, sample often.QI‑6, ul. Gołębia 2 (entrance from ul. Bracka 9), tel. (+48) 12 628 70 93, www.szambelan.pl. Open 11:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-21:00. WIERZYNEK ROYAL CHOCOLATE WORKSHOP This classy sweet shop on the ground floor of Kraków’s most famous dining destination is everything you’d expect based on its unrivalled pedigree. Enjoy the prime Rynek real estate while taking in the sight and smell of pralines, truffles and other chocolaty creations - all of which are made on-site and can be taken home in snazzy gift-boxes - or comfortably order later from their online shop.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48) 727 46 40 02, www.wierzynekchocolate.com. Open 12:0019:00.

Shopping MUSIC & RECORDS PAUL’S BOUTIQUE Kraków’s best record store for vinyl enthusiasts, at Paul’s the records are well-protected, clearly labelled and priced and easy to browse. Find a decent selection of used classics, but the emphasis is on new records from the 90s to today, especially hip-hop, indie and electronic music. QJ‑8, ul. Miodowa 4/7, tel. (+48) 794 99 98 08, www. paulsboutique.store. Open 12:00-20:00; Sat 11:0017:00; closed Sun.

SHOPPING MALLS FACTORY OUTLET This outlet mall 15mins by car from the centre features 120 foreign and domestic brands - including Levi’s, Reserved, Calvin Klein, Guess, Gino Rossi, Benetton, Wittchen, Desigual, Pepe Jeans, New Balance, Timberland and more - at 30-70% off the prices you’d expect elsewhere.Qul. Rożańskiego 32, Modlniczka, tel. (+48) 12 297 35 00, www.krakow.factory.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Fri 10:0022:00; Sat 09:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-20:00. From May open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-20:00.

BUTIK LFC – GUCCI, CHLOE, SAINT LAURENT, MOSCHINO, STELLA MCCARTNEY, BALMAIN, SEE BY CHLOE, PAUL SMITH, KENZO, PHILIPP PLEIN, OFF WHITE, DSQUARED2, DIOR, PLEIN SPORT, JUST CAVALLI, ISABEL MARANT, VERSACE, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, JIMMY CHOO, MONCLER, GIVENCHY, MARSELL, MARNI, RICK OWENS, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI, MARC JACOBS, GOLDEN GOOSE, FENDI, AMI, LOST AND FOUND, LANVIN, MAISON MARGIELA, ALLSAINTS, ACNE, VALENTINO RED, MCM, VICTORIA BECKHAM, RAG&BONE, ETRO, ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI, AMIRI, ANDRE GRAND – COLETTI, CERRUTI 1881, THOMPSON LONDON, VERSACE, BAGATT, DIESEL, DESERT ROSE, EWA RODZINKA CONCEPT ROOM – BUNNY THE STAR, CONFASHION, LULL, MIAMIKO, MITU, NAH_NU KATARZYNA SKOREK, NUNC DOMINIKA NOWAK, LOUVE WITH EVOLUE – ROBERT KUPISZ, PAPROCKI & BRZOZOWSKI, GOSIA BACZYŃSKA, ŁUKASZ JEMIOŁ, 303 AVENUE, NATALIA JAROSZYŃSKA, WESTWOOD EYEWEAR, MAGGIE PIU, MANIEWSKI, SENSI, NORD SHOES STUDIO, NESPRESSO, KLUB „U LOUISA”, LCONCEPT 13 - BAR & RESTAURANT 13, DELIKATESY 13, VINOTEKA 13

GALERIA KAZIMIERZ Opened in 2005 and recently refreshed, Galeria Kazimierz is Kraków’s most likeable shopping mall, boasting over 160 retail units including Guess, H&M, Reserved, United Colors of Benetton, Big Star, Zara and Swarovski, plus plenty of food options. For recreational needs GK also touts a cinema and fitness club. Easily accessed on foot, those arriving by car have 1,500 parking spaces to pick from (free on weekends, first 2hrs free Mon-Fri).QM‑8, ul. Podgórska 34, tel. (+48) 12 433 01 01, www.galeriakazimierz.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. GALERIA KRAKOWSKA This is a hard one to miss, since it’s been sneakily incorporated into the train station. Covering 60,000m2 over 3 floors, among their 250 stores you’ll find H&M, Zara, Reserved, and Media Markt, plus 1400 parking spaces, and a bustling food court. The mall and large square in front of it also host frequent exhibits and events.QK‑4, ul. Pawia 5, tel. (+48) 12 428 99 00, www.galeriakrakowska.pl. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. PASAŻ 13 This gorgeous Rynek townhouse was converted into a snazzy upscale shopping area in 2005 to become the first branch of the Likus Concept Stores. Nicer than your typical mall, Pasaż 13 has over a dozen designer shops, including their own Likus Fashion Concept (a curated collection of top brands like Gucci, Saint Laurent, Marc Jacobs), Louve with Evolue (top Polish designers), Andre Grande, Nord Shoes Studio, Diesel and more, plus Louis Music Club & Pub (p.107) and the L Concept 13 Bar & Restaurant (p.99).QI‑6, Rynek Główny 13, tel. (+48) 12 617 02 27, www.pasaz-13.pl. Open 11:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00.

MAIN MARKET SQUARE 13 OPEN: 9 AM - 9 PM; 11 AM - 5 PM

www.pasaz-13.pl

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Spa & Wellness

Even without a room at the 5-star Copernicus hotel, you can still enjoy their 5-star spa.

Vacations are exhausting. The days are packed with activites from morning to night, these pretentious Europeans shame you into wearing uncomfortable footwear and then march you around their claustrophobic city centres proclaiming how wonderfully ‘walkable’ everything is, there’s no water anywhere, everyone puts their bags on the chairs instead of sitting in them which is crazy, and the streets of course are made out of round rocks called ‘cobblestones’ because you need a damn cobbler - something you’d only find in Europe - to fix your broken shoes afterwards, not to mention the feet inside them which are swollen, and who said this was wonderful its too much effort, just go to the spa and get a massage for godsakes. Phew. That’s better. CHAIYO THAI MASSAGE CENTRE Improve blood and limphatic circulation, release physical and mental tension, strengthen the immune system, improve joint flexibility and remove toxins from your body with an authentic Thai massage, performed solely by highly qualified Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok. The offer includes classical Thai massage, herbal compresses, oil massages, feet and legs reflexology, back, shoulder and head massages, and more. Receive a 20% discount when you present In Your Pocket. Also at ul. Dietla 103 (K-7, tel. (+48) 12 422 65 49). QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 27, tel. (+48) 530 50 05 10, www. tajskimasaz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Massages 80300zł. 120 Kraków In Your Pocket

AMBRA DAY SPA This spa and beauty salon offers a range of body treatments and massages to help you relax and feel special, plus a long list of aesthetic procedures we’re pleased to say we’ve never heard of and have no idea what they do; among them: endermology, no-needle mesotherapy and microdermabrasion.QC‑7, ul. Królowej Jadwigi 100, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 66, www.ambraspa.pl. Open 09:0020:00; closed Sun. BOOK-A-BALANCE MOBILE SPA This mobile spa service brings the pampering straight to you. Offering a range of massages and beauty treatments, qualified and experienced professionals arrive at your apartment or hotel room with all the necessary equipment to make you feel like royalty, ensuring that you literally don’t have to lift a finger beyond making the call.Qtel. (+48) 503 63 39 03, www.book-a-balance.pl. Open 08:00-22:00. COPERNICUS SPA BY L’OCCITANE Whether you’re a guest or not, you can still enjoy some of the exquisite amenities of Hotel Copernicus, including the exclusive spa in the hotel’s gorgeous Gothic cellars. In partnership with elite French cosmetics firm L’Occitane, the experience begins as soon as you enter and the scent hits your nose. Wellness treatments are offered for men and women, singles and pairs, including an array of facials and full body massages. Signing on for a spa treatment gets you free access to the sauna and swimming pool as well (otherwise off limits to non-guests).QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 34 22, www. copernicus.hotel.com.pl. Open 09:00-21:00.

Spa & Wellness FEMMALIUM MED SPA Located close to ulica Wrocławska, this spa specialises in aesthetic medicine and beauty treatments, including icoone massage, permanent makeup, lash-styling, manicures, pedicures, spray tanning, botox, massages, wax hair removal and laser depilation. The price for facial treatments ranges from 70-250zł.QG‑1, ul. Poznańska 8, tel. (+48) 12 416 16 40, www.femmalium.eu. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. HOTEL STARY WELLNESS CENTRE & SPA This wellness and spa centre in the cellars of Kraków’s most prestigious hotel is also open to non-guests, and includes a gym, two swimming pools, a dry sauna, steam room with aromatherapy and a salt-iodine chamber. One fee (80zł), unlimited time and a great location without thousands of screaming youngsters.QI‑5, ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. (+48) 12 384 08 03, www.stary.hotel.com.pl. Open 06:0022:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-21:00. Admission 80zł. MARIACKI SPA Located just off the Rynek, with views of Mariacki Basilica, this spa and salon offers a wide range of massages, facials, peelings, manicures and pedicures, plus eyebrow shaping, eyelash lifting and henna for eyebrows. QJ‑5, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 668 09 93 88, www.mariackispa.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sat 09:00-20:00; closed Sun. TERMY KRAKOWSKIE FORUM Enjoy splendid views of Wawel Castle while completely naked, in public, without reprimand. The no clothes or swimsuits (only towels) policy of this new sauna complex applies to all areas - the two Finnish saunas, Turkish bath, hot tub, salt room, biosauna, infrared sauna, cooling area with ice chips and ice water, outdoor pool, and double VIP room. Special ‘seances’ - which involve a ‘sauna master’ pouring scented water over coals or smashing balls of ice while dancing around in a towel - take place every hour from 17:15. Cheeky indeed.QH‑8, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28, tel. (+48) 538 29 55 00, www.termykrakowskie.pl. Open 15:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-23:00. 35zł/1hr, 50zł/2hrs, 60zł/3hrs. All day 75zł; couples 120zł. VANILLA SPA This luxurious spa in the centre of the five-star Niebieski Hotel is a palace of pampering for your mind and body thanks to a variety of holistic treatments in relaxing environs. Spoil your skin through a series of peels and masks using top of the line cosmetics and munch on organic ‘bio snacks’ courtesy of the Vanilla Sky restaurant between trips to the sauna, steam bath, and massage tables. Walk in for a free consultation to have their experts create your own personal care programme.QF‑8, ul. Flisacka 3 (Niebieski Art Hotel & Spa), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 04, www.vanillaspa.pl. Open 10:00-21:00.

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