Krakow In Your Pocket - February - March 2020 by Poland In Your Pocket

Maps Events Events Restaurants SightseeingCafés Restaurants Nightlife Sightseeing Nightlife Shopping Shopping Hotels

Kraków No. 122, February – March 2020

City Guide

Pope JPII in Wadowice

p.70

Duda-Gracz in Nowa Huta

p.52

Leonardo in the Czartoryski

p.56

Contents

Kraków

The newly renovated Czartoryski Princes Museum is open again after a 10-year absence (p.56).

Foreword Events Arrival & Transport Sightseeing Old Town - walking tour of UNESCO treasures Wawel - Royal Castle complex Kazimierz - walking tour of former Jewish district Podgórze - wartime traces and scenic cliffs Nowa Huta - Socialist Realism suburb Museums

Activities & Experiences Kids & Families Day Trips Wadowice - birthplace of Pope John Paul II Wieliczka - medieval salt mine Auschwitz-Birkenau - former Nazi death camp Tarnów - Małopolska’s charming 2nd city

Cafés

Breakfast & Brunch

86 84

Restaurants

18 20 30 34 42 50 54

Nightlife

106

Shopping Local Souvenirs & Gifts Polish Design

118 114 116

Health & Wellness

122

Hotels

124

Index

129

62 64 68 70 72 74 76

Local Flavours 7 Essential Eating Experiences Must-try Polish Alcohols Traditional Polish Dishes

78 107 82

Maps City Map

Old Town Map

Kazimierz Map

Podgórze Map

Nowa Huta Map

51 3

Foreword Can you imagine arriving in a new city and receiving all the tourist info you could possibly need, for almost any interest, updated for the exact period of your visit, directly to your hand, in print, FOR FREE?! NOBODY DOES THAT! In fact, the ‘nobodies’ at Poland In Your Pocket have been doing exactly that for over 20 years. From the researchers that contact hundreds of venues in our database every two months, to the editor who then updates which exhibits at Wawel Royal Castle will be closed for conservation on which days (p.30), which new nalewki bar is worth checking out (Niewódka, p.110), and which 20th century Polish artist has a fantastic new gallery open in Nowa Huta (Duda-Gracz, p.52); from the designer who painstakingly lays out every page of text and images, to the sales team who goes out into the community to mostly hear how nobody values print anymore, nobody reads guidebooks, and (almost) nobody is interested in collaborating on this project. It seems we’re all a bunch of nobodies in the end… Except somebody is reading this. Somebody is using this guide and finding it useful. Somebody is discovering places they otherwise might not have, somebody is having a positive experience in this city as a result, and in doing so, somebody is giving the work we nobodies do some value. Is that somebody you? Go ahead, don’t be shy. Use this guide, enjoy your time in Kraków and prove that there’s merit in a small team of local Cracovians stubbornly offering a service that they think enriches their city. It’s okay. Nobody needs to know ;) #krakowinyourpocket #travelslow #travelsmart

WRITER & EDITOR A true ‘man without a country’ in the current political climate, Garrett Van Reed is a native of Bucks County, Pennsylvania, who has been living in and writing about Kraków for over a decade. He enjoys exploring his adopted city, unpacking its complex history, and introducing its best attributes to those who visit.

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 20,000 copies published every 2 months Writer & Editor: Garrett Van Reed Sales: Monika Szymanek: (+48) 668 87 63 51 Events: Monika Boguszewska Stopka (+48) 728 87 94 94, Katarzyna Mrozewska-Fenz, Patrycja Ples Research: Dominika Sosnowska, Aleksandra Sosnowska, Zuzanna Onuszko; Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Cover: © Sergey, Adobe Stock Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Events

World Press Photo Exhibition | Photo: Chris McGrat, p.9

EVENTS BY DATE 12.02 - 01.03 » FINE DINING WEEK

Fine Dining Week is a culinary extravaganza for the most demanding food aficionados during which chefs of the best restaurants share their cooking philosophies. The festival focuses only on exclusive restaurants, offering dishes from the most prestigious establishments. During the festival, participants choose a restaurant where they are given an opportunity to taste five different dishes upon reservation on the website. In the rich offer of all restaurants participating in Fine Dining Week, vegetarians and meat lovers alike will certainly find something for themselves. QParticipation 129zł/person, www. finediningweek.pl.

14.02, 16.02 18:30 » ARIADNE ON NAXOS

Ariadne on Naxos is an intriguing, imaginative work, full of surprises and dell’arte jokes. Hugo von Hofmannsthal’s libretto combines the high art of opera with the opera buffa element. Embedded in the circus environment is the Minotaur myth, fused seamlessly with Venetian carnival and bacchanalia. The main plot focuses on the story of an ideal, but sensual romantic love. Directed by Włodzimierz Nurkowski and designed by Anna Sekuła, this spectacular performance is a mustsee show.QM‑4, Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 29, Tickets 20-100zł, www.opera. krakow.pl. 6

20.02 - 23.02 » SHANTIES 2020

For 40 years running, Kraków has hosted this salty sea shanty festival with so much success that it has spawned an astounding twenty other shanty festivals across Poland. During this year’s 40th edition titled “Let’s go back to the Lakes”, the biggest stars of sea songs will be performing during the four days of concerts, plus there’s a raft of workshops, photo exhibitions, and other accompanying events. The theme of the festival is significant since many shanties lovers started their sailing careers cruising on PL’s freshwater lakes. In the festival’s finale, the invited performers from Poland and abroad will be singing about their adventures while sailing the most beautiful lakes. Foreigners need fear not—while many of the performers are Polish, there are plenty of international acts as well.QTickets 22-95zł, www.shanties.pl.

21.02, 22.03, 23.02 18:30 » THE BAT

This operetta masterpiece by the one and only “Waltz King” Johann Strauss II has been performed thousands of times worldwide. With extravagant costumes and too many plot twists to count, The Bat is a must-see, presenting a scintillating look into the inner workings of the aristocratic elite and the upper-middle class. Note that this rendition is performed in Polish, with German subtitles.QM‑4, Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 29, Tickets 30120zł, www.opera.krakow.pl.

Events 23.02 11:00-18:00 » NAJEDZENI FEST! BUZZED

The upcoming Najedzeni Fest! has a title that tells it all Buzzed! It means lots of great alcohol combined with the tastiest food! Expect a huge offer of craft beer, cider and wine from Małopolska vineyards. This edition of the festival joins forces with Dizajn Fair, so use your imagination when getting dressed. And remember, eat, drink and be merry as the old phrase goes! Free admission.QI‑10, Forum Przestrzenie, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28. Admission free.

25.02 20:00 » THE AUSTRALIAN PINK FLOYD SHOW

The biggest and most spectacular Pink Floyd tribute of all time! The Australian Pink Floyd Show will be their only concert in Poland! The band will perform in Krakow as part of the new All That You Feel 2020 World Tour. Aussie Floyd has the chops, the vocals, and yes, even the inflatables, to put on a proper Pink Floyd tribute show. The band’s fantastic musicianship and the incredible visuals always win the audience over. Their tribute act is amazing and proves the worthiness of tribute acts in general. It doesn’t matter who’s playing the songs, or who wrote the songs, or how old the songs are. It only matters that an audience experiences the songs together.QTauron Arena Kraków, ul. Stanisława Lema 7, Tickets 165-195zł, www.metalmind.com.pl.

28.02 20:00 » MALUMA 11:11 WORLD TOUR

Maluma, a Colombian singer, songwriter, actor, and winner of a Latin Grammy Award will perform once again at the Tauron Arena. The author of such hits as “Felizes Los 4”, “Chantaje” (a collaboration with Shakira), and “Medellin” (a collaboration with Madonna), Maluma gained enormous popularity at a very young age. Beloved by social media, his Instagram has close to 46 million followers. In the Spotify app, his songs are played about 27 million times a month, making him one of the top five most frequently played artists in 2018.QTauron Arena Kraków, ul. Stanisława Lema 7, Tickets 179-299zł, www.eventim.pl.

panoramic screen. The 80-member symphony orchestra accompanied by the Academic Choir of Adam Mickiewicz University led by Adam Domurat will fill the space with music to the rhythm of the simultaneously projected images, featuring the most unusual and spectacular places on our planet, among them Hawaiian beaches, unique National Parks, tropical forests, snow-covered mountain peaks and urban jungles. The repertoire will include movie soundtracks from Gladiator, Avatar, Pirates of the Caribbean, James Bond, Dreamer, Transformers, Lord of the Rings, and many others.QTauron Arena Kraków, ul. Stanisława Lema 7, Tickets 70-145zł, www.visualproduction.pl.

06.03 11:00, 07.03 18:30, 08.03 18:30 » THE BARBER OF SEVILLE

“The Barber of Seville” is an opera buffa in two acts by Gioachino Rossini with an Italian libretto by Cesare Sterbini. Rossini’s most beloved work consists of the incredible music, great script and “inexhaustible resources of theatrical humour”- Piotr Kamiński. Krakow’s production is directed by Jerzy Stuhr, with the musical direction by Tomasz Tokarczyk. The cooperation of these two artists resulted in the most interesting performance which certainly does justice to Rossini’s mastery and wit, “swarming” with famous musical themes. The set design is by Natalia Kitamikado, and costumes by Joanna Klimas.QM‑4, Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 29, Tickets 15-120zł, www.opera.krakow.pl.

What’s On in Kraków? It’s all In Your Pocket

28.02, 01.03 18:30 » TRAVIATA

“La Traviata”, an opera in three acts by Giuseppe Verdi set to an Italian libretto by Francesco Maria Piave, is based on “Lady of the Camellias”, a play adapted from the novel by Alexandre Dumas’ son. It’s a moving story about a Parisian courtesan and her eventual salvation through the sacrifice of love and death. The innovative Krakow production focuses on the characters’ psychology and motivation, omitting the historical context. It talks about sacrifice and loneliness, and the choices we make in life regardless of the time and place. “La Traviata” is directed by Krzysztof Nazar, set design by Marek Braun and costumes by Zofia de Ines. QM‑4, Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 29, Tickets 30-120zł, www.opera.krakow.pl.

01.03 18:00 » VISUAL CONCERT

The Visual Concert is a multimedia music show that uses popular movie soundtrack motifs while projecting images of the most beautiful places in the world on a large

Free app download: iyp.me/app /krakowinyourpocket /polandinyourpocket wordpress iyp.me/polandblog 7

Events 13.03 11:00, 14.03 18:30, 15.03 18:30 » CINDERELLA

Famous composer Gioachino Rossini wrote 39 operas, becoming the most popular opera composer in history at the time of his life. His most famous works include the timeless comedies The Barber of Seville and La Cenerentola, performed with undying enthusiasm year after year. QM‑4, Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 29, Tickets 15-100zł, www.opera.krakow.pl.

21.03 - 22.03 10:00-20:00 » CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL

Experience the rich, sweet goodness of chocolate! From chocolatiers to chocoholics, this event is about bringing chocolate lovers together, with multiple amazing exhibitors. Learn everything you have ever wanted to know about the sumptuous world of chocolate at this twoday festival. Check out the chocolate-making process from bean to bar, and discover the vast array of cocoa flavours and quality chocolate. Meet renowned chocolate makers and experts, and taste their most special creations! All chocolate creations will go to honorary blood donors who take part in the social campaign “Give blood for a bag of sweets”, which for years has involved well-known brands like Wawel, TAGO, Super Krówka, Cocoa and more.QI‑10, Forum Przestrzenie, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28. Admission 10zł. Two-day pass 15zł, www.festiwal-czekolady.pl.

21.03 19:30 » FILM CONCERT LIVE

The concert is dedicated to the work of Wojciech Kilar, one of the most prominent Polish film composers and it will be performed by the Polish Radio Orchestra conducted by Maciej Sztor. Kilar composed music for over a hundred feature films. He has collaborated with the most famous filmmakers: Andrzej Wajda, Krzysztof Kieślowski, Roman Polański, Krzysztof Zanussi, Jane Campion, and Francis Ford Coppola. Wojciech Kilar’s film scores have won many honours including the best score award for the music to “Ziemia Obiecana” (The Promised Land), followed by the music to “Le Roi et l’Oiseau” ( The King and the Mockingbird). He also composed the music score to Francis Ford Coppola’s ‘Bram Stoker’s Dracula’ which received the ASCAP Award from the American Society of Composers. The concert will be enriched by the screening of fragments of films featuring Kilar’s music. QTauron Arena Kraków, ul. Stanisława Lema 7, Tickets 39-179zł, www.koncertfilmowy.pl.

25.03 18:30-20:30 » TETIANA GALITSYNA’S SAND THEATER

A truly unique spectacle - Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s “ The Little Prince” is reimagined by Tetiana Galitsyna during this live sand painting performance. It’s not only an impressive show of speed painting combined with light and water animation, but also an amazing theatrical performance - a magical journey to the Little Prince’s planet, accompanied by incredible music.QG‑6, Kijów Centrum, Al. Krasińskiego 34. Tickets 60-95zł, www. teatrpiasku.pl. 8

Events 27.03, 28.03, 29.03, 31.03 18:30 » ORPHEUS IN THE UNDERWORLD (ORPHEUS IN HELL)

“Orpheus in the Underworld” or “Orpheus in Hell” is a comic operetta by French composer Jacques Offenbach (French libretto by Hector Crémieux and Ludovic Halévy), a satirical treatment of the ancient Greek myth of Orpheus and Eurydice. Offenbach tells the satirical version of their marriage, where spouses are bored with each other, and look elsewhere for excitement, which results in the gods’ intervention. The composer takes an opportunity to poke fun at the elite’s abuse of power, ubiquitous hypocrisy, twisted morality and public deception. This witty, ingenious opera is directed by Włodzimierz Nurkowski, musical direction by Tomasz Tokarczyk, set and costume design by Anna Sekuła.QM‑4, Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 29, Tickets 30-140zł, www.opera.krakow.pl.

05.04 19:00 » YASMIN LEVY

Israeli beauty Yasmin Levy—one of the biggest stars of contemporary world music—returns yet again to Poland. Born in Jerusalem, this phenomenal singer-songwriter is of Sephardic descent and sings in the obscure Judeo-Spanish language known as Ladino, performing music in the tradition of Spanish Jewry, incorporating Andalusian flamenco influences and Eastern instruments. She has appeared at many international festivals, including WOMAD in Singapore, the Barcelona Forum, the BBC New Year’s concert in London, as well as the worldfamous Carnegie Hall. QG‑5, Auditorium Maximum UJ, ul. Krupnicza 33. Tickets 109-189zł, www.koncerty.com/pl.

EXHIBITIONS UNTIL 01.03 » PHOTOBLOC. CENTRAL EUROPE IN PHOTOBOOKS (20TH-21ST CENTURY)

New Year in Vienna End of Carnival in Krakow THE BAT JOHANN STRAUSS

special performance

25.02.2020

The Photobloc project traces the similarities and differences between the societies of Central Europe in how photographic publications have reflected the process of shaping their new identities, and thus affected their image and ideology, their dreams of modernisation and the future. Part of the two‑year project Photobook Bloc: Central Europe in Photobooks (1900–2018).QI‑5, International Cultural Centre, Rynek Główny 25, tel. (+48) 12 424 28 11, Admission 13/8zł, www.mck.krakow.pl. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon.

07.02 - 01.03 » WORLD PRESS PHOTO EXHIBITION

For professional photographers, especially those who work as photo-journalists, being featured in the World Press Photo Exhibition is considered quite the accomplishment. It’s kind of like the Oscars but for photographers, you know? Every year, the World Press Photo Foundation, in collaboration with Canon, ask an independent international jury of experts to choose the best press photos in a selected group of categories. The 2019 edition (which also happened to be the 62nd anniversary of this prestigious affair), saw more than a whopping 78,000 images submitted by over 4,500 photographers from at least 129 countries.QR‑3, Nowa Huta Cultural Centre, Al. Jana Pawła II 232, tel. (+48) 12 644 02 66, Tickets 10/8zł, www. nck.krakow.pl/world-press-photo-62-edycja.

www.opera.krakow.pl 9

Events 14.02 - 26.07 » THE WONDER OF LIGHT. MEDIEVAL STAINED-GLASS WINDOWS IN POLAND

Stained glass art, treated as an artistic craft and thus valued lower, remains to this day a phenomenon as fascinating as it is difficult to grasp since it only comes alive when light penetrates it. So let’s throw a beam of light on the stained glass phenomenon: What skills did stained-glass makers have? How to “read” stained-glass? What was their place in the art panorama of the given era? These are the questions that the creators of the exhibition pose in the first part of the exhibition. The second part of the exhibition is devoted to the history of re-discovering stained-glass windows in the 19th century.QG‑6, National Museum, Main Building, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, Admission 25/15zł, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 09:0018:00; Sun 10:00-16:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 15.03 » SHINJI OGAWA. ENTER EVERY REALITY

Shinji Ogawa is a master of historical manipulation: dividing figures, doubling buildings, superimposing one text on another, filling in ruins, creating new cities superimposed over the pattern of old ones, separating documents into layers, sketching connections seemingly not connected with one another. He is a master of new as well as old painting techniques. This exhibition features works created between 2005 and 2019, separated into three parts: urban utopia, Polish inspiration, and woodcuts. The artist toys with his audience by removing, adding, dividing and creating new elements. Ogawa fuses European culture with the Japanese mentality.QN‑9, Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK), ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 01, Admission 14/7zł, www.mocak.pl. Open 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon.

08.02 - 15.03 » PIOTR LUTYŃSKI. BUDDHA, MARS & DEER

Piotr Lutyński’s exhibition includes paintings, objects, collages, films, as well as documentation of the artist’s studio work and his work in the public sphere. The artist, fascinated with nature, matter, quantum physics and space, divides space according to five thematic areas - Buddha, Mars, Deer, Biology and Project Space. Piotr Lutyński approaches his fascination with science with tender irony. For him, art is a universe within which he can freely mix science, nature, and emotions. His paintings juxtapose the abstraction of art with the realism of nature; the naturalism of Nature against the artificiality of Art.QI‑5, Bunkier Sztuki Gallery of Contemporary Art, Pl. Szczepański 3A, tel. (+48) 12 423 12 43, Admission 12/6zł, www.bunkier.art.pl. Open 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 15.03 » HERE COMES YOUTH! | THE FIRST KRAKÓW GROUP

“The last pre-war Polish avant-garde” is how the group of young Kraków artists known collectively as the ‘Kraków Group’ is often referred to. Aleksander (Sasza) Blonder (pseudonym André Blondel), Blima (Berta) Grünberg, 10

Maria Jarema, Franciszek Jaźwiecki, Leopold Lewicki, Adam Marczyński, Stanisław Osostowicz, Szymon Piasecki, Mojżesz Schwanenfeld, Bolesław Stawiński, Jonasz Stern, Eugeniusz Waniek, Henryk Wiciński and Aleksander Winnicki were passionate left-leaning rebels, uncompromised in their opposition to the existing academic art of that time, and artistically connected to Cubism, Futurism, Constructivism and Expressionism. The exhibition features about 300 works, both traditional as well as abstract, including drawings, graphics, sculptures and paintings. QI‑5, Szołayski House, Pl. Szczepański 9, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 50, Tickets 25/15zł, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 09:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-16:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 22.03 » GUIDO CASARETTO. THE GHOSTS OF MATTER

Guido Casaretto’s artwork is characterised by a physical approach that goes deep into multidimensional sensation by using materials such as concrete, skin, soil and epoxy. The artist explores physical matter - sea, mountains, stone and wood. When dealing with primary materials he uses traditional techniques, whereas with man-made objects he employs more unique methods (pulverising clothing, mixing it with wood, glass and glue). His most interesting approach is to animate models of human figures found on the internet by fusing hundreds of images (or their human “matter”) into one total image. The artist analyses a variety of matter forms and produces their replicas.QN‑9, Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK), ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 01, Admission 14/7zł, www.mocak. pl. Open 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 22.03 » WORLD WAR II – DRAMA, SYMBOL, TRAUMA

This exhibit involves 39 artists and is a moving response to the tragedy of WWII, touching on various themes beginning with ‘War Signs,’ which warns us how easy it is to ignore the early signs of impending doom. The next chapter familiarises us with ‘Sonderaktion Krakau’ - a Nazi operation carried out as part of the broader plan to eradicate the Polish intellectual elite. Another theme explored by the artists is ‘Anti-semitic propaganda,’ which was already quite rampant in Polish society before the war and used effectively by the Nazis, followed by sections on ‘The Jewish Ghetto’ and ‘The Warsaw Uprising.’ The exhibit concludes with ‘Extermination’ and the eradication of human values, followed by ‘The Artist as a Historical Witness.’QN‑9, Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK), ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 01, Admission 14/7zł, www.mocak.pl. Open 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 05.04 » FACTORY OF FORM –LENIN STEELWORKS’ SPACES IN PHOTOGRAPHS (1950-1960)

This outdoor exhibition is a sort of photographic log of the extraordinary documentation of the Lenin Steelworks’ construction stored in the National Archive in Kraków. In the years 1950-1989 nearly 12,000 photographs were created to illustrate the process of construction of the

Events largest investment of the socialist 6-year plan. Grouped in a dozen or so thematic sections, they portray the buildings erected on the premises of the steelworks.QS‑3, Nowa Huta Museum, Os. Centrum E 1, tel. (+48) 12 446 78 21, Admission 12/9zł, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 10:00-17:30. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 05.04 » MY OTHER HOME? LENIN STEELWORKS

This exhibition at the Nowa Huta Museum tells the story of the Lenin Steelworks, which was one of the largest industrial plants in the People’s Republic of Poland and the flagship investment of the 6-year plan. Over the decades the importance of the factory for the district has changed significantly. During the communist era, Nowa Huta was actually a monoculture district built around the factory, where the roles of a worker and resident were often inseparable. The exhibition is an attempt to look at the plant as a socialist workplace, with its philosophy and its translation into practice. It addresses the social functions of the workplace during the communist era, such as running company kindergartens, holiday centres, and community centres.QS‑3, Nowa Huta Museum, Os. Centrum E 1, tel. (+48) 12 446 78 21, Admission 12/9zł, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 10:00-17:30. Closed Mon.

LIVE MUSIC in unique, historical venues Booking: + 48 604 093 570 www.cracowconcerts.com

UNTIL 12.04 » FROM HOME TO HOME. A TALE OF THE WARTIME EXILE & SURVIVAL OF THE PISEK FAMILY

Irena Pisek’s series of pastels tells the story of her family’s incredible three-year journey wandering over 12,000 kilometres from the end of August 1939 to December 1942. Her family had meant to leave home for only a moment and not stray too far away, but the war drove them into the unknown, through Europe, Asia and the Middle East. A series of pastels made by Irena Pisek and handwritten memories form the core of this exhibition.QL‑8, Galicia Jewish Museum, ul. Dajwór 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68 42, Admission 17/12zł, www.galiciajewishmuseum.org. Open 10:00-18:00.

UNTIL 19.04 » TREASURES OF THE PIAST DYNASTY. THE 700TH ANNIVERSARY OF WŁADYSŁAW THE SHORT’S CORONATION

Treasures of the Piast Dynasty commemorates the 700th anniversary of the coronation of Władysław I the Short, which took place on the 20th of January, 1320. It opened a new chapter in Polish history, ending once and for all the period of feudal fragmentation and ushering in the long-awaited rebirth of the Kingdom of Poland. This anniversary created an opportunity to exhibit splendid goldsmithery works and jewels from the era of Piast rule. Among the exhibited items will be precious chalices, diamond crosses, the binding of the Evangeliary of Anastazja, and many other items.QI‑7, Wawel Castle, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 12 422 51 55 (ext.219), Admission 6zł, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 09:30-16:00; Sun 14:00-16:00. Closed Mon.

WEEKLY CONCERTS Pro-Arts organises a diverse variety of intimate concerts performed by distinguished local musicians in unique venues. Tickets available online, or at the venue before the show. cracowconcerts.com

ROYAL CHAMBER ORCHESTRA » EVERY DAY; 18:00

This rather prolific ensemble of graduates from the Kraków Academy of Music perform outstanding, and outstandingly popular, classical music recitals in Chopin Gallery on the Sławskowska Street.QI‑5, Chopin Gallery; 65zł.

CHOPIN CONCERTS » EVERY DAY; 19:30

Enjoy the music of Poland’s greatest composer; price includes a glass of wine.QI-5, Chopin Gallery; 65zł.

FOLK SHOW » EVERY WED & SAT; 19:00

A traditional three-course meal with folk music and dancing in Kraków’s famous secessionist cafe.QJ‑5, Jama Michalika, ul. Floriańska 45; 119zł.

KLEZMER CONCERTS » EVERY TUE, THU & SAT; 16:30

Traditional klezmer recitals performed by a local trio on clarinet, accordion and double bass. QI-5, Klezmer Music Venue, ul. Sławkowska 14; 55zł. 11

Arrival & Transport

The former Kraków Train Station - a fair sight more handsome than today’s underground station.

BY PLANE KRAKÓW AIRPORT Located just 11km west of the city centre, Kraków Airport was fully modernised, including the opening of a new passenger terminal, as recently as 2015. Full of services and amenities, the new terminal is connected directly to parking, as well as train transport to the centre, and inside you’ll find ATMs and currency exchange, tourist info, car rental desks, restaurants, shops and more. Despite increases in volume, getting through check-in and security at Kraków Airport is still relatively speedy compared to most airports. Qul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, www.krakowairport.pl. AIRPORT TRAINS Typically the best way to get between the airport and Kraków’s Old Town is by train via the new ‘Kraków Lotnisko/Airport’ station, which is connected directly to the terminal via a skywalk; however, current work on the rails is resulting in less frequent train service for the foreseeable future. At the moment trains are running once an hour between 04:00 and 24:00 (journey time 20mins); a direct bus also makes the journey between ‘Kraków Lotnisko/Airport’ and ‘Kraków Główny’ (the main station in the Old Town) once an hour (journey time 35min), with bus departures timed to run between trains so that there is service every 30mins. A ticket for either the train or direct bus between the airport and Kraków Główny costs 9zł, and can be bought directly on-board. Check malopolskiekoleje.pl for exact departure times. 12

AIRPORT BUSES Regular commuter buses are also an option, but make stops along the way, adding time to the trip. Bus 208 makes the journey to Kraków Główny train station once an hour at :20 past, while bus 252 runs between the airport and ‘Os. Podwawelskie’ every 30mins with central stops at Cracovia Błonia (G-6), Jubilat (G-7) and Centrum Kongresowe ICE (H-9). Night bus 902 also makes the trip from the airport to the main station with hourly departures beginning at 23:25. These buses all require a 4.60zł single journey fare, which can be bought from the ticket machine at the bus-stop or on-board the bus. All leave from directly outside the terminal and exact bus times and routes can be checked online at krakow.jakdojade.pl. AIRPORT TAXIS The airport has its own ‘Krakow Airport Taxi’ service with vehicles waiting just outside the terminal entrance, which offer a fixed price of 89zł to the city centre. This price is basically criminal, since fares for the 25-35 journey to the Old Town can be had for 35-70zł (on weekday afternoons you should pay less than 50zł) simply by making a call; we’ve found iCar (+48 12 653 55 55) has the best rates. Outside taxi services pick up from the ‘Kiss & Fly’ lane, which can be a bit jammed up and hectic at peak times; it’s best to position yourself for pick-up at the beginning of the lane if possible. Another option is Uber, which has the advantages of very low fares and its app makes finding your ride easier.

Arrival & Transport BY TRAIN KRAKÓW GŁÓWNY TRAIN STATION Following a 130 million PLN modernisation project, Kraków Główny - the catch-all title of the city’s vast underground transportation centre - offers easy transfers between train, bus and tram transport. Of course the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall is also cleverly integrated, and along with modern conveniences like waiting rooms, escalators and elevators, you’ll also find plenty of additional consumer opportunities, including cafes, supermarkets, souvenir shops, bookstores and more. With tunnels, stairs and signs leading off in every direction, it’s all quite confusing (erm, we mean, modern!), but fear not - IYP will help you sort it out. QK‑3, ul. Pawia 5A, www.rozklad.pkp.pl. Open 24-hours. SERVICES Pretty much everything the modern traveller could ever expect or desire can be found somewhere inside the spiffy, sprawling, fully handicap-accessible facilities of the Kraków train station. 24 ticket windows (some open 24-hours), plus automated ticket machines (in English) throughout the station limit the possibility of long queues. The station is wifi-enabled, there are several waiting areas, a tourist information office (open 07:00 - 22:00), currency exchange, luggage lockers, showers, and dozens of food and refreshment opportunities, not to mention the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall. ARRIVING BY TRAIN Conveniently situated at the north-east edge of the Old Town, Kraków Główny is within easy walking distance of most Old Town accommodation, making trams and taxis largely unnecessary. If you’re travelling further than you’d care to walk, use krakow.jakdojade.pl to navigate yourself there via public transport; you can catch trams to Kazimierz (number 19 in the direction of ‘Mały Płaszów’ stops at ‘Miodowa’ (K-8) in Kazimierz, for example) and other parts of the city by following signs underground to ‘Dworzec Główny Tunel.’ Further tram stops are located just outside the station exits. To skip that trouble however, when you disembark your train immediately head up rather than down from the platform and you’ll find yourself on the top floor parking garage where taxis are waiting to whisk you away. If you opt to walk - and we encourage you to do so, wandering into the Old Town is dreamy - you’ll find that getting out of the station can be a bit of a challenge. There are at least four exits and it’s wise to choose the correct one, based on where you want to go. Following signs to ‘ul. Pawia’ will lead you straight into the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall (in the words of Admiral Ackbar: “It’s a traaap!”). Signs to ‘Dworzec Autobusowy’ or ‘ul. Bosacka’ will put you on the east side of the transport complex (further from the market square). If you want to head straight to the market square (do it, it’s only 10mins away!)

it is easier to take the stairs down from the platforms to the old ‘Magda’ tunnel, rather than the escalators into the new complex. Once in the tunnel there is a staircase just after platform 1 that will lead you to daylight. If you end up in the new main complex, follow the clearly marked signs to ‘Stare Miasto’ (Old Town) or ‘ul. Lubicz’ to escape. Once outside, cross the plaza in front of the old station building (Galeria Krakowska is on your right) to the Andels Hotel and follow the crowds through the underpass (K-4); bear right and enjoy a stroll through the Planty Park for two blocks before making a left on Floriańska Street at the Barbican (J-4) and you’re on the ‘Path of Kings’ to the market square. You’ve arrived. DEPARTING BY TRAIN With the train station completely underground, there’s no clear-cut main entrance, but rather several ways to enter. Basically it is directly underneath the train platforms and bus station (L-4), so use those as your geographical targets and you’ll find your way; you can also cut through Galeria Krakowska to get there.

This Pendolino train can get you to Warsaw in 2.5hrs.

Photo by Jakub Hałun

Easily accessed by public transport, there are tram stops all around the train station: ‘Teatr Słowackiego’ (just south of the station, K-5), ‘Dworzec Główny Zachód’ (just west of the Galeria Krakowska and the station, K-4), ‘Dworzec Główny Tunel’ (basically inside the station, K-4, follow signs to the platforms) and ‘Dworzec Główny Wschód’ (just east of the bus station and main entrance to the station, L-3). All of these are perfectly good options, it just depends where you are coming from. Again, your best bet is to have krakow. jakdojade.pl plot your course to the train station from wherever you happen to be in town. Once you’re there, station departures (odjazdy) are listed on yellow timetables, arrivals (przyjazdy) are the white ones; check the timetables online at the Polish railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has limited but effective English language functionality, or try the journey-planning website e-podroznik.pl. If you want a seat on a particular train it is best to book ahead. If in a rush, tickets can also be bought on board the train from the conductor, but expect a surcharge. 13

Arrival & Transport BY BUS KRAKÓW MAIN BUS STATION Although somewhat integrated into the Kraków Glówny underground transportation centre, Kraków retains its own semi-separate bus station, located directly east of Galeria Krakowska and the train platforms. Recently ‘modernised’ (codeword for ‘filled with commercial shopping space’), the station comprises two floors with access to two levels of bus departure gates. Inside the top floor of the bus station proper you’ll find ticket windows (open 06:00-20:45; tickets can also be bought downstairs at the -1 level 05:00-21:30), food vendors, currency exchange (kantor), ATM (bankomat) and information point (open 06:00-21:00; Sun 07:00-20:00). When the main hall is closed between 22:00 and 06:00, a separate night time waiting room is available with access to the toilets and left luggage lockers. Those arriving to Kraków by bus will find taxis nearby on both the upper and lower floors, as well connections to public transport nearby. Located within easy walking distance, unfortunately the most direct way to the market square is underground through the Kraków Główny train and transit centre; follow the clearly marked signs for ‘Stare Miasto’ (Old Town) or ‘ul. Lubicz.’ To plan bus departures from Kraków, use the helpful website e-podroznik.pl.QL‑4, ul. Bosacka 18, www. mda.malopolska.pl.

BY CAR Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of accidents and traffic jams around the country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed. The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/ hr on motorways. Cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/ alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licences technically invalid (though this has never been a problem for anyone we know). The A4 highway runs right through Kraków connecting it to Berlin (via Katowice and Wrocław) to the west and Rzeszów to the east (via Tarnów). While points east are currently tollfree, a 10zł toll is paid when you enter the motorway in the direction of Katowice, and again when you exit. 14

Driving around the city itself is incredibly frustrating thanks to frequent roadwork, one-way streets, permit-only streets, and high traffic volume; parking is yet another challenge. As such we recommend you ditch your vehicle for public transportation at the first opportunity. Street parking is available between the large parking signs on the sidewalks, but is not cheap (6zł/hr in most of the centre) and must be paid Mon-Sat 08:00-20:00. Buy a parking pass from the ticket machine (most of which only take coins, of course) and place it on the driver’s side of your dashboard. Public parking lots in the centre are marked on the large map on p.16.

CAR RENTAL All most travellers need to rent a car in PL is 18 years of age, a credit card (not debit), and a valid foreign driver’s licence. Note, however, that those from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic (United States, China, Australia...) cannot legally drive on their home licences; an International Driver’s License is technically required. Though some companies will still rent you a car, you assume full liability for any damages if you get behind the wheel; you also run the risk of getting a citation from the police for driving without a valid license. If you’re looking to leave the country, be aware that you can’t cross the Polish borders into Ukraine, Belarus or Lithuania in a rental car. AVIS CAR RENTAL IN KRAKÓW Internationally trusted service located near the train station, with a pick-up/drop-off point at the car park above the station. Also at the airport.QL‑4, ul. Lubicz 23, tel. (+48) 22 113 91 52, www.avis.pl. Open 08:00-18:00; Sat 08:0016:00; closed Sun. EUROPCAR Excellent service and a wide range of vehicles. Also at Krakow Airport, tel. (+48) 12 257 79 00.QL‑9, ul. Nadwiślańska 6 (Qubus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374 56 96, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. TRAFICAR CAR SHARE Want your own car, but just for a short while? Here’s an option. Download the Traficar app, find an empty vehicle (their clearly-marked fleet includes 2- and 4-door sedans, as well as vans), scan the QR code and you’re in. After checking the vehicle over, off you go and you can leave the car in any legal parking place. Everything is done through the app, which is easy to use and works great. That said, taxis are cheaper, and you don’t have to search around for one - they come to you. Also, you can’t leave the car outside city limits (but you can drive it to another Polish city like Warsaw, Wrocław or Katowice where Traficar operates). As such, this is the ideal option for big shopping trips, or maybe picking up friends at the airport, but not much else. Note that you need to have a valid driver’s license that is recognised in PL. As with regular car rental, citizens from

Arrival & Transport countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic cannot drive on their home licenses; unfortunately this includes Americans, Australians and the Chinese, among others, for whom an International Driver’s License is required.Qwww.traficar.pl. Prices are calculated as 2.99zł to start a journey, plus 1.50zł/km; 0.15zł/min when parked (0.01/min 23:00-07:00).

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

SCOOTER & MOPED RENTAL 2019 was the year of the scooter wars in Kraków, as several international start-ups suddenly burst onto the scene simultaneously, offering electric motorised scooter rentals via free smartphone applications. Although annoying to some, these e-scooters actually provide locals and tourists a cheap, easy, efficient and environmentally-friendly way to get around Kraków’s congested city centre (as long as they are used and parked responsibly). To get started you need an e-scooter app on your smartphone, and the services that seem to have best survived into winter are Blinkee (blinkee.city, strongest of the three locally), Bolt (bolt.eu, strongest in Europe) and Bird (bird.co, strongest in US). BLINKEE ELECTRIC MOPEDS & SCOOTERS Popular across PL, Blinkee offers 83 electric mopeds and 169 electric scooters across Kraków. Use their app to find one, ‘unlock’ it, drive it around town and drop it off wherever you like. Each moped has one helmet stored in its trunk (but can seat two people). Believe it or not, if you’re over 24 all you need to drive a moped is a valid ID, but if you’re 24 or under you need a valid driver’s licence that’s recognised in PL (see Car Rental); basically anyone over 18 can ride an e-scooter.Qtel. (+48) 22 290 25 25, www.blinkee.city. Available from March to December.

TAXIS Taxi service in Kraków is very reliable and affordable. Calling one of the firms below will get you a better fare, but if you hail one from the street just make sure it is clearly marked with a company name and phone number. A standard fare is about 7zł, plus about 2.30zł per kilometre; at night and on Sundays fares increase by up to 50%. Most Poles do not tip taxi drivers, but if you’d like to 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you. The popular Uber, Bolt and FreeNow ride-hailing platforms are also present in Kraków, for those familiar with their services. There are some drawbacks, however, particularly with Uber, whose drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for cheaper rates. BARBAKAN TAXI Qtel. (+48) 12 196 61, www.taxi.barbakan.krakow.pl.

While Krakow has no underground metro system it does have an integrated bus and tram system which runs from 05:00-23:00, with night trams and buses continuing less frequently after that. Check official timetables and network maps online at mpk.krakow.pl (which has English functionality), or figure out how to get from point A to point B via krakow.jakdojade.pl - an invaluable navigation site and transport app. Also note that while frequent changes in service prevent us from printing a tram map in our guides, tram stops are marked on all Krakow IYP maps. Transport tickets can be purchased from the handy ticket machines (also in English) at major stops, and on-board most trams and buses. Note that not all ticket machines take bills and bank cards, so it’s wise to have some change handy. Tickets are the same for trams and buses, and some are timed, allowing you to change between tram or bus lines within the alloted time. The current cheapest fare is good for 20mins at a cost of 3.40zł. By our estimation, this is about the time it should take to go 5-8 stops, depending on traffic, and ideal for travel around the Old Town, Kazimierz and Podgórze. If you’re going outside the centre (Nowa Huta, for example), we recommend you purchase a 50min ticket for 4.60zł. Note that those over the age of 70 ride for free, as do kids until age 4 (ages must be proven with ID). ISIC and student cards are valid for ticket discounts, but you must carry your ID and be under 26. Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket immediately on boarding the tram or bus in the small machines on-board, even if you bought your ticket on-board. Beware that inspectors regularly travel on the lines handing out costly fines to those without valid tickets, and are notoriously unsympathetic towards tourists. Seriously, riding without a ticket can not only ruin your day, but your entire trip to Kraków.

ICARQtel. (+48) 12 653 55 55, www.icartaxi.eu. 15

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Kraków Sightseeing Not only the pride of Poland, but also Europe’s first World Heritage Site, go out and discover the magic of Kraków - district by district.

Sightseeing Sightseeing Kraków has always been, in many respects, a charmed city. With a history that dates back to the 4th century settlement of Wawel Hill, ever since the pesky Mongols stopped bullying the area back in the 13th century, Kraków has fortuitously avoided destruction. The most important Polish city to escape World War II without looking like a trampled Lego set, even the Soviets failed to leave their mark on Kraków’s enchanted city centre during 45 years of supervision, erecting the communist Utopia of Nowa Huta in the outlying suburbs. As a result, Kraków is today one of Europe’s most beautiful architectural showpieces – a claim validated by the inclusion of its Old Town and Kazimierz districts on the first-ever UNESCO World Heritage List in 1978, along with the nearby Wieliczka Salt Mine and only ten other places in the world. A city of majestic monuments, cobbled lanes, timeless courtyards and priceless cultural treasures, Kraków’s historic centre is the pride of Poland.

KRAKÓW IYP ONLINE Despite its seemingly ridiculous length, the Kraków In Your Pocket print edition is only a small fraction of all the content we have on Kraków and the surrounding region, not to mention all of Poland. Visit our website - poland.inyourpocket.com - to see just how much of the country we cover, and to download guides to Warsaw, Gdańsk, Wrocław, Katowice and other cities you might be travelling to. Below is a small sampling of Kraków-related content we wish we’d had room for this issue, with links to where you’ll find it online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket!

TADEUSZ KOŚCIUSZKO

You’ll see his name and likeness all around Kraków, but who was this handsome, name-challenged gentleman? Read our scholarly feature to learn all about this hero of America and Poland: Qiyp.me/kosciuszko

KRAKÓW’S DISTRICTS Kraków’s centre can be divided into two main sections – the Old Town (p.20) and Kazimierz (the former Jewish Quarter, p.34), with Wawel (the former Royal Castle, p.30) towering between them. These three areas are within easy walking distance of each other and requisite for anyone visiting the city. Though you could spend days just wandering the cobbled streets and courtyards of the UNESCO area, don’t fail to also take a trip across the river into Podgórze (p.42) - arguably the city’s most evocative district; the Jewish heritage trail also naturally leads you from Kazimierz into Podgórze, where the worst horror of Kraków’s Nazi occupation played out. If time affords, intrepid tourists looking for something completely alternative to European splendour can explore Nowa Huta (p.50), one of only two planned socialist realism cities ever built. Designed to be the antithesis of everything Kraków’s Old Town represents, both culturally and aesthetically, the commie comforts of Nowa Huta are only a tram ride away. Those staying in the area for a week or more should also strongly consider day trips to nearby destinations like Wieliczka Salt Mine (p.76), The Pope John Paul II Museum in Wadowice (p.72), the Auschwitz-Birkenau death camp (p.78) and Małopolska’s charming second city, Tarnów (p.80).

USING OUR GUIDE Kraków In Your Pocket is designed to provide you with all the tools and info necessary to explore the city on your own. Use our highly detailed maps - and the map coordinates for each venue - to navigate the city’s most interesting neighbourhoods. All the important sites in each area are described in detail and meticulously updated every two months; use the indexes in the back of the guide to quickly find venues you’re specifically searching for, or simply follow our suggestions. Enjoy exploring Kraków!

LITERARY KRAKÓW

In 2013 Kraków was designated a ‘UNESCO City of Literature.’ The city’s resume includes the first bookstore in Europe, and Nobel Prize winners for Literature - Czesław Miłosz and Wisława Szymborska. Our guide to Literary Kraków introduces you to the city’s most famous authors and best literary locales: Qiyp.me/literarykrakow

POPE JOHN PAUL II

Born in nearby Wadowice (p.72) exactly 100 years ago this year, Karol Wojtyła studied at Jagiellonian University and served as Kraków’s Bishop before becoming Pope in 1978. Aside from the Vatican, no city is more associated with the late pope than Kraków, which remained his spiritual home throughout his life. IYP takes a look at the life, legacy and many local sites associated with ‘Poland’s Pope:’ Qiyp.me/thepope

THE WAWEL CHAKRA

The staff at Wawel won’t tell you about Wawel’s fabled chakra stone - one of only seven sacred energy points in the world - but we will; learn the legend as well as the chakra’s secret location: Qiyp.me/wawelchakra 19

Old Town Walking Tour 0 GRUNWALD MONUMENT The Battle of Grunwald, fought between the joint armies of Poland and Lithuania against the German-Prussian Teutonic Knights on July 15, 1410, was one of the largest battles of Medieval Europe, and is considered one of the most important military victories in Polish history. This weighty monument was unveiled in front of a crowd of 160,000 people on the event’s 500th anniversary in 1910. Unsurprisingly, Antoni Wiwulski’s original masterpiece was destroyed by the Nazis during WWII and the copy you see today was made from his original models in 1976. At the top on his horse is Polish King Władysław Jagiełło, while below him at the front is his cousin the Lithuanian prince Vytautas (Vitold), flanked on either side by victorious soldiers from the joint army. The prone man at the bottom is Urlich von Jungingen, the Teutonic Order’s Grand Master, who lost his life during the battle.QJ‑4, Pl. Matejki.

Grunwald Monument

Full of majestic architectural monuments, priceless cultural treasures and cobbled pedestrian thoroughfares, Kraków’s Old Town is the pride of Poland, one of Central Europe’s most beautiful architectural showpieces, and one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations. Characterised by its unique upside-down teardrop shape - dictated by the city’s former medieval defensive walls extending north like two encircling arms from Wawel Castle - today the Old Town is surrounded by the charming belt of public green space known as the ‘Planty’ (p.22). Standing in place of the city’s medieval moat, the Planty draws a clear line around the original medieval centre of Kraków, within which you’ll find many of the city’s most spectacular sights.

1 BARBICAN Originally there were eight entrance gates into the city, but let’s begin just outside the most grand of those entrances, and unfortunately the only to have survived to modern times - the Floriańska Gate, fortified by the impressive Barbican fortress. Standing between the Barbican and the Floriańska Gate you are actually on top of what was once the drawbridge over the city’s moat. Built in Gothic style at the end of the 15th century, the Barbican boasts seven turrets, 130 defensive slots used by archers and riflemen, and its 3m thick walls proved impenetrable. Today this masterpiece of medieval military engineering is one of the only surviving structures of its kind in Europe.

WALKING TOUR

The Barbican can be visited as an outdoor museum from April to October, but in the winter season (until March 20), the interior courtyard is transformed into ‘Fairytale Barbican’ - a family attraction full of illuminated figures and magic mirrors, where kids can place themselves into some of Kraków’s most famous legends. Entries are timed every 30mins for various languages (Polish, English, Russian, Spanish); English entries at 17:00, 18:30, 20:30 and 21:30; admission 30/25zł; more at bajecznybarbakan. pl.QJ‑4, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl.

IYP’s Old Town Walking Tour leads you from near the main entrance of the city in the north - the historic Floriańska Gate (J-4) - to Wawel Royal Castle in the south (I-7), via the market square and most important and interesting points in the Old Town. Known as the ‘Royal Route,’ this was essentially the historical coronation path of Poland’s kings from the 14th century to the very end of the 16th century when Kraków served as the royal capital. The prescribed route (shown in blue on the map) includes a couple key detours, of course, and covers about 2km. If you’re only interested in the exercise, it could take as little as 30mins, but we reckon for most an exploration of Kraków’s Old Town will take several hours ‘if done correctly’ - that is, with a couple short culture, food and coffee/beer breaks. If you have only one day in Kraków, this is how you should spend it. Make sure you’ve got a full charge on your camera, some comfy shoes and off you go.

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Old Town Walking Tour THE PLANTY Once the site of the city’s 13th century defensive fortifications, the walls were razed, the towers demolished and Kraków’s moat was filled during Austrian occupation in the first half of the 19th century. While today it’s easy to regret the shortsighted destruction of Kraków’s medieval city walls (except for the Barbican and Florianska Gate, which survived), we can thank the Austrians for replacing them with this lovely greenery encircling the Old Town. Known as the ‘lungs of the city’, the Planty is one of Kraków’s most unique and charming features 3km of public park filled with trees, flowers, benches and monuments. Strolling its circuit would take over 1hr, but represents a great way to see the city. Also a popular place for couples, if you haven’t smooched someone on a park bench in the Planty before leaving town, well then you haven’t finished your itinerary. QC‑4/5.

2 JAN MATEJKO MONUMENT Located just beside the Barbican and unveiled in 2013, this monument pays homage to one of Poland’s greatest painters, and Kraków’s most beloved sons. Famous for his epic and outsized historical paintings - which have been reproduced enough to become imprinted in the national psyche - Matejko’s work can be seen throughout Kraków from the Czartoryski Museum (p.56) to the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.54), to the monumental polychrome he did inside St. Mary’s Basilica (p.24) in his final years. Educated in Kraków and later principal of the Academy of Fine Arts, Matejko also trained an entire generation of great Polish painters, including Wyspiański, Mehoffer and Malczewski. This impressive monument is the work of Jan Tutaj, and located along what was Matejko’s daily walk from his home to his job at the Arts Academy (which today bears his name) on nearby Plac Matejki (also named in his honour). To learn more about Matejko, visit his home and museum at ul. Floriańska 41 (p.57).QJ‑4, ul. Basztowa.

Jan Matejko Monument

3 FLORIAŃSKA GATE Across from the Barbican - to which it was once connected via drawbridge over the city moat - stands the iconic Floriańska Gate. Erected in 1307, this Gothic gateway tower and its adjacent towers (plus the Barbican) are almost all that remains of the medieval defences which once circled the Old Town. As the most important of the city’s eight medieval gates, St. Florian’s Gate was spared demolition during 19th century Austrian occupation thanks to lastminute local efforts. As in ancient times - when the gate marked the entry point for royal processions en route to Wawel Castle - today Floriańska Gate remains the primary entry point to Kraków’s Old Town, leading down ulica Floriańska to the market square.

Standing 34.5 metres tall, including the Baroque ‘helmet’ added in the 17th century, Floriańska Gate features a stone eagle on the side facing the Barbican, and a 19th century bas-relief of Saint Florian facing Floriańska Street. There is an altar in the actual passageway, and a hidden chapel in the tower itself (accessed via the City Defensive Walls museum). Street musicians commonly play beneath the tower, and local artists sell their paintings on either side along ul. Pijarska. Upon passing through the gate it’s worth taking a quick detour to your left along the original defensive wall/ul. Pijarska to get a look at the Baroque majesty of the 4 Słowacki Theatre, if you’ve yet to lay eyes on it. It’s also here on ul. Pijarska that you’ll find the entrance to the City Defensive Walls museum (closed in winter), which is only worth it for the photo opportunities from the balcony of the Floriańska Gate. As the city’s principal commercial street, ulica Floriańska comes steeped in history, with many of the townhouse facades featuring age-old murals and inscriptions among the signs for kebabs, dance clubs and currency exchange. Places of note along ul. Floriańska include the Jan Matejko House (no. 41, p.57), the Pharmacy Museum (no. 25, p.60), and the historical Jama Michalika Cafe (no.45, p.87) - famous for its role as the clubhouse for Kraków’s Art Nouveau movement.QJ‑4, ul. Floriańska.

Old Town Walking Tour

Słowacki Theatre

4 SŁOWACKI THEATRE Today regarded today as an architectural masterpiece, the Słowacki Theatre initially ignited fierce criticism due to the demolition of the medieval Church of the Holy Ghost to make room for it. Completed in 1893, Jan Zawiejski modelled his Baroque design on the Paris Opera and the structure is distinguished for its elaborate facade decorated with allegorical figures. The foyer and marble staircase are supreme examples of fin-de-siecle thinking, and the lavish stage curtain by Henryk Siemiradzki is worth seeing. Typically open during productions only (all of which include English subtitles), guided tours can be arranged by phone (200zł for up to 50 people).QJ‑5, Pl. Św. Ducha 1, tel. (+48) 12 424 45 25, www.teatrwkrakowie.pl. 5 MAIN MARKET SQUARE Ulica Floriańska deposits you directly onto Kraków’s main market square (‘Rynek Główny’) in front of the iconic St. Mary’s Basilica. You are now standing in the very heart of the city with your finger on its pulse. Originally designed in 1257 - the year Kraków was awarded its charter – the grid-like layout of the Old Town and its central square have changed little in the centuries since. Measuring 200 metres squared (40,000 square metres), the Rynek ranks as one of the largest medieval squares in Europe, and is surrounded by elegant townhouses, all with their own unique names and histories. Lined with cafes and restaurants, and filled with people, pigeons, performers and horse-drawn carriages, this is the city’s social gravitational point, and a place of festivals, concerts, parades and other happenings.

In fact, the Rynek has always been the city’s natural assembly point for public celebrations, parades, protests and even executions; it was here that homage to the King was sworn until 1596, here that Tadeusz Kościuszko famously inspired the locals to revolt against foreign rule in 1794, and here also that ‘Der Führer’ himself raucously announced the name change to ‘Adolf Hitler Platz’ during Nazi occupation. Fortunately the moniker didn’t last long and today the Rynek is again the biggest stage for Polish culture in the world, and absolutely packed with historical monuments and sights.QI‑5. 23

Old Town Walking Tour THE HEJNAŁ

photo by Przemek Czaja; fb.com/MadeinKrakow

One of the most captivating Cracovian traditions is the hejnał (pronounced “hey-now”) – a short, melodious bugle call played every hour, on the hour, in the four cardinal directions from the left tower of St. Mary Basilica. For centuries it has been the job of local firemen to climb the 239 steps to the top of the tower, ring the church bell and perform the hejnał precisely on the hour. A source of civic and family pride for the few men chosen to do it, the job requires not only great discipline, but also bravery as local legend would have it. The first written mention of the song dates all the way back to 1392, and though its exact origins are unclear, it was apparently used as a warning of fires or invasions. As the story goes, in 1241, as Tartar invaders crept near the city gates for a nefarious nocturnal attack, a night watchman saw them coming and played the signal from atop the defensive walls to arouse the slumbering city to arms. As he did so, an arrow pierced him through the throat, abruptly suspending the song in mid-melody. To this day, the tune likewise cuts off in mid-report to symbolise the city’s vigilance, and commemorate the lone guardsman who woke the city and thereby saved it. It’s a nice story, and since trumpet calls were used commonly across Europe during medieval times to open and close the city gates, its entirely conceivable that the legend is true. However, some have claimed that the story of the arrow-stricken trumpeter is a complete fiction made up in the 20th century. Polish journalist Leszek Mazan even went so far as to suggest that an American fabricated the whole ‘legend’ in 1929 (blasphemy!). Whatever its origin, any visitor or Cracovian will surely attest that the hejnał’s living tradition defines and shapes Kraków. In addition to pleasing visitors able to witness the bugle call live from the church tower every hour, the tune can also be heard all over Poland when it is broadcast live over the radio every day at noon. 24

6 ST. MARY’S BASILICA First up is St. Mary’s Basilica - one of the most dazzling cathedrals in the country. After Tartar raids left the original church in ruins, St. Mary’s was rebuilt in Gothic style and reconsecrated in 1320. In the early 15th century the towers took the iconic form they have today, when the northern tower was raised to 80m high and made into a watchtower. It is from here that the hejnał - the city’s famous bugle call - is played every hour on the hour; don’t miss it. The interiors will take your breath away. The magnificent wooden altarpiece was the principal work of 15th century German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit Stwosz) for twelve years; note, however, that due to conservation work not all elements of the altar may be on display. Surrounding the altar are polychrome paintings by Polish masters Matejko, Mehoffer and Wyspiański from the late 19th century. When visiting, tourists are asked to use a side entrance, and only during the hours listed below. Tickets are purchased in a separate building across from the tourist entrance. The Bugle Tower is also open to tourists from March 1, ThuSat only 09:10-17:30. Note that only 10 people max are admitted every 30mins; tickets are sold separately, cannot be bought in advance, and typically sell out quickly each morning (15/10zł; no kids under 7).QJ‑5, Pl. Mariacki 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 07 37, www.mariacki.com. Church open 11:30-18:00, Sun 14:00-18:00; admission 10/8/5zł, kids under 8 free.

The Adam Mickiewicz Monument and St. Mary’s Basilica 7 ADAM MICKIEWICZ MONUMENT Between the market square’s two crowning glories - St. Mary’s and the Cloth Hall - lies this elaborate monument to Poland’s most eminent scribe, Adam Mickiewicz (17981855). Originally unveiled in 1898, this large likeness of the romantic poet and national hero was destroyed by the Germans during WWII, like so many other symbols of national pride. The statue you see today is a 1955 copy of Teodor Rygier’s original, and is a popular meeting place. Ironically, Lithuanian-born Mickiewicz (whose most famous work, Pan Tadeusz begins with the words ‘Lithuania, my country!’) never visited Kraków until 35 years after his death, when his body was laid to rest in the Royal Crypts just down the road at Wawel.QI‑5, Rynek Główny.

PASAÅ» 13 KRAKOW 13 MAIN MARKET SQUARE (level -1) vinoteka@vinoteka13.pl www.vinoteka13.pl

Old Town Walking Tour 8 ST. ADALBERT’S CHURCH Kraków’s oldest church, this mad mix of pre-Roman, Roman, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture dates back to the 11th century, thus pre-dating the market square and thereby explaining its strange placement on the square, as well as why its floor sits some two metres lower. Unfortunately, the church is currently closed to visitors until May 2020.QI‑6, Rynek Główny, tel. (+48) 12 422 83 52, www.wojciechnarynku.pl. 9 CLOTH HALL (SUKIENNICE) The iconic showpiece at the centre of the market square, Kraków’s Cloth Hall is essentially one of the world’s oldest shopping malls, and its origins and development can be traced as those of the city itself. Proof of a structure at this site dates back to the mid-13th century; when King Kazimierz the Great approved construction of a purposebuilt trading hall in the mid-14th century, Kraków’s importance as an east-west trading post vastly increased and the city thrived. After a fire in the mid-16th century, the Sukiennice was given a Renaissance facelift by Jan Maria Padovano, making it the most magnificent building in all of Kraków. Though the name ‘Sukiennice’ literally refers to textiles and fabrics, Kraków’s Cloth Hall saw an array of commodities bought and sold in its merchant stalls including wax, spices, leather and silk, as well as lead and salt from the nearby Wieliczka mines. To this day it is still crammed with merchant stalls selling amber, lace, woodwork and assorted tourist tat, and a stroll through its central thoroughfare is essential.

In 1879, despite the country having been partitioned for nearly a century (or rather because of it), the first Polish National Museum was established here on the upper floor, making the Cloth Hall the focus of a huge upsurge of Polish patriotism. Following a complete modernisation of the building’s interiors, this historical and highly recommended gallery was reopened as the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.54) in 2010. At the same time the Cloth Hall’s sloped roofs were converted into lovely terraces on the east side, where Cafe Szał now offers great views overlooking the market square and St. Mary’s Basilica, while on the ground floor the historical 1910 Noworolski Cafe (p.87) boasts wonderful Art Nouveau motifs by Jozef Mehoffer. The east side of the Cloth Hall is also the entry point for Rynek Underground (p.60) - one of Kraków’s most modern and popular museums, detailing the historical development of the area around the market square. Note, however, that tickets must be bought in an office on the west side of the Cloth Hall, and due to the museum’s popularity we suggest you get them a day in advance.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 1/3, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl.

BOOK A TOUR link 26

bit.ly/KrakowOldTownTours

10 TOWN HALL TOWER On the square’s other side is the 70 metre Town Hall Tower, the only element of the 14th century Town Hall remaining after many fires, renovations and short-sighted demolitions. Known as Kraków’s ‘leaning tower,’ the structure actually leans some 55cm, a curiosity credited to a particularly forceful wind back in 1703. Beside the base of the Town Hall Tower you’ll find one of Kraków’s most wellknown landmarks and popular meeting places - a giant, toppled bust known affectionately as ‘The Head.’ Inevitably serving as a backdrop for almost every tourist who visits Kraków (your turn!), the bronze body part’s official title is 11 ‘Eros Bendato’ (Eros Bound) and is the work of Polish artist Igor Mitoraj (1944 - 2014).QI‑5, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 43 34, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Closed until spring. 12 PIOTR SKRZYNECKI MONUMENT Before departing the market square, take note of one more monument opposite Eros - that of Piotr Skrzenecki. Always sharply dressed in hat and suit with fresh flowers in hand, the bronze Skrzynecki is a loyal patron of local dive bar Vis a Vis; so loyal that he exhibits total disregard for opening and closing times. A favourite spot of the real flesh-and-blood Piotr Skrzynecki, his bronze likeness is only a few doors down from Piwnica Pod Baranami (Rynek Główny 27), the legendary literary and political cabaret he founded in 1956. Until his death in 1997, Skrzynecki was an essential component of the Cracovian - and Polish - art scene, directing films, screenwriting, acting as Piwnica Pod Baranami’s conférencier, critiquing art, organising unusual cultural events, throwing far-out birthday bashes and being an all-around eccentric. His legacy lives on.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 29.

Old Town Walking Tour 14 COLLEGIUM NOVUM Built in 1873-1887 and opened for Jagiellonian University’s 500th anniversary, Collegium Novum (Latin: New College) was designed in Neo-Gothic style to match Collegium Maius. In addition to the gorgeous façade, the building contains a beautiful assembly hall (Aula) where a painting of Austria’s Franz Jozeph I hung until a group of students famously shredded it in a symbolic act calling for the restoration of an independent Polish Republic in 1918. Several important paintings remain, however, including portraits of university founders Kazimierz the Great and Władysław Jagiełło, and Jan Matejko’s Copernicus: Conversation with God. Today the university’s administrative centre, Collegium Novum is not necessarily open to tourists, but you might be able to have a poke around if you can pass yourself off as a student. A monument to Copernicus also stands nearby.QI‑6, ul. Gołębia 24.

Collegium Maius Assembly Hall 13 COLLEGIUM MAIUS Exit the market square via ul. Św. Anny before veering onto ul. Jagiellońska to find Collegium Maius, the oldest building of Jagiellonian University, which is in turn the second oldest university in Central Europe. Built as the university’s main campus in the late 14th century, a century later it was redesigned as the late-Gothic structure surrounding the picturesque arcaded courtyard that has survived to this day. While professors lived and worked upstairs, it was in the ground floor lecture halls that Nicolaus Copernicus made doodles in the margins of his notebooks in the 1490s. Today a museum, Collegium Maius can be visited with a guide only during the week. Over hour-long guided tours of the interiors and exhibits are given in English Mon-Fri at 13:00 (16/12zł), while more basic 30+ minute tours in English depart frequently (12/6zł); it is suggested, however, that you call or visit in advance to reserve yourself a place on a tour. On Saturdays individuals can visit without a guide (admission free). Inside you’ll see the lecture hall (aula), old refectory, professors’ quarters, library and treasury, seeing some fabulous interiors, paintings, furniture, medieval scientific instruments, rectors’ maces and other university memorabilia along the way, as well as the oldest surviving globe to depict the Americas. Another highlight of visiting is the courtyard clock, from which wooden historical figures appear and parade past to music from the mid-16th century every two hours between 09:00 and 17:00. There are typically temporary exhibits to inquire about as well (with their own pricing and opening hours). The building’s courtyard also houses a gift shop and cafe.QI‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13 07, www.maius.uj.edu.pl. Open 10:00-14:20 (last entry); Saturday 10:00-13:30 (last entry). Admission 12/6zł (30min+ tour), 16/12zł (1hr+ tour); Sat free.

15 BISHOP’S PALACE & PAPAL WINDOW A pleasing stroll through the Planty will soon bring you to the Bishop’s Palace - the second largest palace in Kraków (after Wawel) and residence of Kraków’s bishops since it was first built in the 14th century. Today the Palace is most famous for having been the residence of Cardinal Karol Wojtyla from 1958 to 1978, before he became Pope John Paul II. During his visits to Kraków as Pope he would often make evening appearances in the ‘Papal Window’ to address the crowds of his followers below - a tradition which Pope Francis continued during his visit for World Youth Day in July 2016. For years an image of John Paul II has filled the window (making it easy to identify); recently this was replaced with a beautiful mosaic image of the former Pope by Magdalena Czeska. During anniversaries you can be sure the area across the street will be festooned with flowers and candles. The building itself is off-limits, but the courtyard is open to tourists where you’ll find the city’s first monument of JPII, erected in 1980.QI‑6, ul. Franciszkańska 3. Courtyard open from 09:00 until dusk.

Old Town Walking Tour

16 ST. FRANCIS’ BASILICA Across the street you’ll find St. Francis’ Basilica, which may not look like much from the outside, but a trip inside reveals Kraków’s most colourful church, and our personal favourite, thanks to the gorgeous Art Nouveau interiors by native son Stanisław Wyspiański, which nicely balance the organic and geometric with unique floral patterns. Wyspiański also made the eight stained-glass windows here around 1895, including the controversial, iconic and absolutely must-see centrepiece, ‘God the Father in the Act of Creation’. Dating back to the 13th century, St. Francis’ Basilica was the first brick building in the city and is well worth popping in, even for those who could care less for looking at another church.QI‑6, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 53 76, www. franciszkanska.pl. Open 06:00-20:00. 17 WYSPIAŃSKI PAVILLION Following his work on St. Francis Basilica, Wyspiański was commissioned to design a triptych of windows fopr Wawel Cathedral. At the time, however, the artist’s haunting portrayals of St. Stanisław, Kazimierz the Great and Henryk Pobożny were deemed too grotesque and controversial to instal, and the project was shelved until director Andrzej Wajda resurrected the idea of producing them 100 years later. Using Wyspiański’s designs, the work was carried out by Piotr Ostrowski of the Stained Glass Museum and a building designed by Krzysztof Ingarden specifically for displaying them was erected near St. Francis Basilica in 2007. Curious for its facade of rotating brick panels and the fact that it is not suited for displaying stained glass at all (facepalm), the tiny building is too narrow to view the windows from inside, and natural light is not even able to pass through it. As a result, the out-facing windows are lit from inside and best viewed at night. Martyred Polish heroes St. Stanisław (on the left) and Henryk Pobożny (on the right) are shown Christ-like at the moment of their deaths, while Kazimierz the Great’s bare skull bears the royal crown between them. The building also serves as a tourist information point.QI‑6, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2.

18 CHURCH OF SAINTS PETER & PAUL Walking down busy ul. Grodzka you are now officially back on the ‘Royal Route.’ One of Kraków’s most striking churches is the Church of Saints Peter & Paul - a Jesuit Church built in the early 1600s. The twelve disciples standing on the gates outside are the church’s most visually arresting feature, but the interior has been extensively renovated and the airy, austere grandeur of this late Renaissance building is now evident. The crypt serves as the new national pantheon for Poles distinguished in the arts, science and culture (Sławomir Mrożek was the first interred here in 2013). Possessors of a 46.5m Foucault Pendulum - a device invented by French physicist Leon Foucault in 1851 which proves the earth’s rotation, public demonstrations of its use are given every Thursday at 10:00, 11:00 and 12:00.QJ‑7, ul. Grodzka 52A, tel. (+48) 12 350 63 65, www.apostolowie.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sun 13:30-18:00. 19 ST. ANDREW’S CHURCH Standing alongside the Church of Saints Peter & Paul, St. Andrew’s offers the finest example of Romanesque architecture in Kraków. Built between 1079 and 1098, it has been a place of worship for 900 years and was used as a refuge and fortress during Tartar invasions. Most of the relics were looted anyway, making a trip inside a bit of a letdown. Remodelled by Baldassare Fontana during the mad-for-all-things-Baroque 18th century, note the pulpit which resembles a boat - typical of the Baroque style. QJ‑7, ul. Grodzka 54, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 12. Open 09:30-11:30, 13:00-14:30, 15:15-16:30.

The Towers of St. Andrew’s and apostles of Sts. Peter & Paul

Old Town Walking Tour 20 PLAC ŚW. MARII MAGDALENY The most picturesque route to Wawel involves cutting through Plac Św. Marii Magdaleny - a favourite haunt among local skateboarding youths, who pay no heed to the stern, disapproving sculpture of Jesuit priest Piotr Skarga hovering over the area. The square’s name refers to the long-gone St. Mary Magdalene Church, which stood in this spot from the 13th until early 19th century, when it was demolished after falling into a state of hopeless disrepair. A 1945 fire to the subsequent house built here convinced the city to simply make it a public space. Sick, bro.QI‑7, Plac Św. Marii Magdaleny.

„One of the best dining experiences we have ever had. This place deserves a michelin star!” James by krakow.inyourpocket.com

ul. Kanonicza

photo by Przemek Czaja, fb.com/MadeinKrakow

21 UL. KANONICZA One of Kraków’s oldest and most picturesque streets, this cobbled lane is lined with superb examples of Renaissance and Baroque architecture, many of them leading into lush, quiet courtyards. Number 17 is a branch of the National Museum (Bishop Erazm Ciołek Palace, p.55), while next door is the Archdiocesan Museum (number 19, p.55) where Karol Wojtyła lived before becoming Pope John Paul II (find exhibits on the Pope inside). At the very end, number 25, lies the former royal bathhouse better known today as ‘Dom Długosza.’ One popular tale surrounding the bathhouse claims that the future Queen Jadwiga, concerned by rumours that Lithuanians had gigantic genitals, sent one of her servants here to spy on the manhood of Lithuanian Grand Duke Jagiełło - her husband-to-be. Her fears appear to have been allayed and the couple got married, taking up residence at Wawel Royal Castle - at the foot of which ul. Kanonicza deposits you. The city’s defining landmark, and a source of great pride, patriotic and spiritual strength, Wawel and the Wisła riverbanks below it are worth spending several hours exploring on their own.QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza.

Kraków, ul. Grodzka 40 tel. +48 12 430 04 11 www.miodmalina.pl

Wawel

The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top of the hill of the same name immediately south of the Old Town (I/J-5), is by far the most important collection of buildings in Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope, selfrule and not least of all fierce patriotism, Wawel offers a uniquely Polish version of the British Buckingham Palace and Westminster Abbey rolled into one. A gorgeous assortment of predominantly Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic architecture dating from around the 14th century onwards, Wawel is the crown jewel of Kraków’s architectural treasures and required visiting for Poles and foreigners alike. Even for those who know or care little about the country’s past, Poland’s ancient seat of royalty contains a vast wealth of treasures inside its heavily fortified walls that can’t fail to inspire. Made up of the Castle and the Cathedral, of which the former contains most, but by no means all of the exhibitions, Wawel’s must-see highlights include the opulent State Rooms, a tantalising glimpse of Poland’s very own crown jewels inside the Crown Treasury, the historical interiors of the Cathedral, and a leisurely stroll around all the castle courtyards and open spaces. The complex is free to enter, and there is no ticket necessary to explore the castle grounds. Tickets for tours and exhibits can be a challenge to get, however. The best course is to call tel. (+48) 12 422 16 97 for tickets a few days in advance of your visit. Failing that, make sure you arrive as early as possible to the ticket office, or you may discover that most offers are sold out. 30

WAWEL CASTLE Wawel’s prominence as a centre of political power predates the building of the first Cathedral on the site in 1000AD. Evidence shows that Wawel Hill was being used as a fortified castle before Poland’s first ruler, Mieszko I (circa 962-992), chose Wawel as one of his official residences. The first Polish king crowned in Wawel Cathedral was the teenage Władysław the Short (1306-1333) on January 20, 1319, beginning a tradition that would see a further 35 royal rulers crowned there up until the 17th century. All of these rulers used the Castle as a residence, and all of them added their own architectural details to the building. The moving of the capital to Warsaw in 1596 and Poland’s subsequent decline and partitioning saw the Royal Castle fall into a state of disrepair. The occupying Austrians used it as a military hospital and even went so far as to demolish several buildings including a number of churches on the site. The 20th century saw the Castle change hands on a number of occasions, most famously when the Castle was used as the headquarters of the Nazi Governor General, Hans Frank, during the German occupation of WWII. Today’s Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of styles including Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque. The inner courtyard with its delightful colonnades is a true architectural masterpiece, and the treasures contained within do much to contribute to Kraków’s rightful status as a truly world-class city.QI‑7, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 12 422 51 55 (ext.219), www.wawel.krakow.pl. Admission free for castle grounds; tickets required for various interior exhibits.

Wawel STATE ROOMS The main exhibition of Wawel Castle’s interiors, the spectacular State Rooms include several rooms on the ground floor - all of which have retained their magnificent Renaissance-era timber ceilings - and the guest apartments on the second floor. These are the rooms where the royals once entertained, held court, conducted sessions of the Senate, and hosted guests. Full of luscious oil paintings, intricate 16th-century tapestries, and some truly extraordinary wallcoverings, highlights include the Senator’s Hall - the largest room in the castle, which hosted the first royal wedding back in 1518, and the Envoys’ Room - complete with 30 wooden heads on the coffered ceiling (originally there were 194!) and an original throne that really brings the majesty of Poland’s past to life. Absolutely worth visiting, give yourself at least 40mins to take in all the extravagance.QOpen 09:30-16:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Note that the State Rooms will be closed from March 3-23. Admission 20/12zł; Sun free (ticket still required; check ticket office for availability 09:0014:45). ROYAL PRIVATE APARTMENTS The Royal Private Apartments are basically a continuation of the State Rooms tour of the castle’s interiors, and equally stunning, however these rooms can only be accessed on a specially conducted guided tour (available in English or Polish; max. 10 people per group). Consisting of the royal bedchambers and guest rooms, these rooms on the first floor reveal how the royals lived and arranged their private lives. Packed with delightful Gothic and Renaissance details, your 40-60min guided tour will include the wonderful Guest Bedroom, complete with original Renaissance larch wood ceiling, and the charmingly-named, but mysterious ‘Hen’s Foot’ - two small rooms inside the 14th-century Belvedere Tower, which offer great views of Kraków’s Old Town, but whose original function is unknown.QOpen 09:30-16:00; closed Mon, Sun. Tours depart every 10mins until 16:00. Closed from Feb. 24 to March 9. Admission 23/18zł. Bedchamber in the Royal Apartments © Zamek Królewski na Wawelu

State Rooms, The Senator’s Hall

INFO & TICKETS WAWEL VISITOR CENTRE Wawel visitor numbers are restricted and tickets for tours and exhibits are timed in an attempt to prevent overcrowding. To increase the odds of availability and avoid long queues, call tel. 12 422 16 97 to reserve tickets several days before you visit; if you can’t, make sure you get there as early as possible. Tickets should be collected here at the Wawel Visitor Centre Reservation Office at least 30mins before the reserved tour time. All exhibits are self-guided except for the Royal Apartments, however foreign language guides can be arranged in advance. In addition to ticket sales and pick-up, the Visitor Centre is also the place to get more info about various seasonal and theme tours on offer, pick up free maps or make use of the small post office, gift shop, cafe/ restaurant and toilets.QI‑8, Wawel 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 51 55 (ext. 219), www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open 09:0017:00. From March open 09:00-18:00. CATHEDRAL TICKET OFFICE The Cathedral and the Castle have different ticket offices. Tickets for the Cathedral can be purchased only in the ticket office directly opposite the Cathedral entrance. While entrance to the actual cathedral itself is free you will need a ticket to enter the adjoining Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell tower. A single ticket covers these as well as the Cathedral Museum. Audioguides are recommended to make the most of the experience, and can be rented here for 9/6zł (in Polish, English, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish, Czech, French and Hungarian).QI‑7, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 95 15, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00-15:30; Sun 12:30-15:30. Tickets covering the Cathedral Museum, Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell cost 14/8zł.

BOOK A TOUR link bit.ly/WawelTours 31

Wawel CROWN TREASURY & ARMOURY Containing Poland’s equivalent of the Crown Jewels among its many wonders, Wawel’s Crown Treasury & Armoury provides a delightful excursion into the world of the sumptuous, extravagant and brutally violent. Among the many golden and bejewelled goblets, platters and coins of the Crown Treasury, Szczerbiec - the country’s original coronation sword - is the ultimate highlight. The Armoury contains a wealth of weaponry including some exceedingly swanky crossbows and a frightening array of spiky pikes, while the cellar holds a collection of cannons and replicas of the banners captured at the Battle of Grunwald.QOpen 09:30-16:00; closed Mon, Sun. Closed from Feb. 1024. Admission 20/12zł. LOST WAWEL Essentially an archaeological and architectural reserve, the smartly conceived and executed exhibits here focus on the restored remains of the Rotunda of the Blessed Virgin Mary - Kraków’s first church, and the most wellpreserved pre-Romanesque church in PL, as well as the former royal kitchens and coach house. Visitors will also see several lapidariums of early stonework, a collection of colourful Renaissance tiles, scale models, and virtual reconstructions of what Wawel Hill looked like over one thousand years ago.QOpen 09:30-16:00; Sun 10:0016:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/7zł; Sun free (ticket still required; check ticket office for availability 09:0014:45). ORIENTAL ART This exhibit comprises art from the Near East which was highly fashionable amongst the Polish nobility as it entered the kingdom via military and trade contact with Turkey, Iran, the Caucasus and Crimea. Visitors will see unique collections of Chinese ceramic and Japanese porcelain, but the most essential part of the exhibit is artefacts captured during King Jan Sobieski III’s famous victory over the Turkish army at Vienna in 1683, including Ottoman commander Kara Mustapha Para’s sabre.QOpen Mon-Sat with 2 entries per day at 11:00 and 14:00; closed from Jan. 27-Feb. 10. Admission 8/6zł.

The Renaissance courtyard at Wawel © efektstudio80 - dollarphotoclub

Wawel Cathedral

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WAWEL CATHEDRAL The scene of the crowning of almost every Polish king and queen throughout history, the current Wawel Cathedral is the third to be built on the site. The first cathedral was built of wood, probably around 1020, but certainly after the founding of the Bishopric of Kraków in 1000AD. Destroyed by fire it was replaced by a second cathedral that subsequently burnt down again. The current building was consecrated in 1364 and built on the orders of Poland’s first king to be crowned at Wawel, Władysław the Short (aka. Władysław the Elbow-high, 1306-1333), who was crowned among the charred rubble of its predecessor in 1319. Considered the most important single building in Poland, Wawel’s extraordinary Cathedral contains much that is original, although many glorious additions have been made over the centuries. Arguably not as stunning as that of its cousin St. Mary’s on the Rynek, the interior of Wawel Cathedral more than makes up for its visual shortcomings thanks to the sheer amount of history packed inside. At its centre is the imposing tomb of the former Bishop of Kraków, St. Stanisław (1030-1079), a suitably grand monument dedicated to the controversial cleric after whom the Cathedral is dedicated. Boasting 18 chapels, all of them about as ostentatious as you’re ever likely to see, of particular interest is the 15th-century Chapel of the Holy Cross, found to the right as you enter and featuring some wonderful Russian murals as well as Veit Stoss’ 1492 marble sarcophagus to Kazimierz IV. If you’re willing to spend the 14/8zł, the Royal Crypts in the basement offer a cold and atmospheric diversion as the final resting place of kings and statesmen, while at the top of a gruelling wooden series of staircases is the vast, 12.6 tonne Sigismund Bell - so loud it can supposedly be heard 30km away.QI‑7, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 27, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00-16:00; Sun 12:30-16:00. Admission free.

Wawel ROYAL CRYPTS While all Poland’s pre-16th kings were buried beneath or within their hulking sarcophagi still on view in the Cathedral today, that trend stopped in 1533 when King Sigismund I had his wife interred in a purpose-built underground vault. He joined her in 1548 and the crypts were expanded in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries to house the remains of nine more Polish kings, their wives and, in some cases, their children thereafter. Upon the demise of the monarchy (and kingdom itself ), the honour was extended to statesmen with Prince Józef Poniatowski (1817), Tadeusz Kościuszko (1818), poets Adam Mickiewicz (1890) and Juliusz Słowacki (1923), Józef Piłsudski (1935) and General Władysław Sikorski (1993) all securing themselves a place here. Most recently - in April of 2010 - the late President Lech Kaczyński and his wife Maria were controversially interred here after the tragedy in Smoleńsk; admission to their tomb (and that of Piłsudski) is free. Descend the stairs inside the Cathedral into the remarkably chilly chambers, beginning with the 11th century St. Leonard’s Crypt - the best Romanesque interior in PL; the exit deposits you back outside.QOpen 09:00-16:00; Sun 12:30-16:00. Admission 14/8zł. SIGISMUND BELL Follow the crowds up many gruelling flights of stairs to reach the infamous Sigismund Bell - a resounding symbol of Polish nationalism ala Philadelphia’s Liberty Bell. The largest of five bells hanging in the same tower, Sigismund’s Bell weighs in at an astounding 12.6 total tonnes (9650 kgs just for the bell itself ), measures 241cm in height, 242cm in diametre and varies from 7 to 21cm thick. The bronze beauty was cast in 1520 on the orders of King Sigismund I and is adorned in reliefs of St. Stanisław and St. Sigismund as well as the coat of arms of Poland and Lithuania. Rung to this day on religious and national holidays, as well as significant moments in history (like the funeral of late President Lech Kaczyński and his wife) the bell’s peal can be heard 30km (186 miles) away and is quite an enterprise to ring, requiring twelve bell-tollers who are actually lifted from the ground by the bell’s force. The entrance is within the Cathedral and tickets (good for the Royal Crypts as well) are purchased at the ticket office across from the Cathedral entrance.QOpen 09:00-16:00; Sun 12:3016:00. Admission 14/8zł. CATHEDRAL MUSEUM Opened in 1978 by Karol Wojtyła just before he became Pope John Paul II, the fabulous Cathedral Museum features a wealth of religious and secular items dating from the 13th century onwards, all related to the ups and downs of the Cathedral next door. Among its most valuable possessions is the sword deliberately snapped into three pieces at the funeral of the Calvinist king, Zygmunt August (1548-1572) - the last of the Jagiellonian dynasty, as well as all manner of coronation robes and royal insignias to boot. A large monument of Pope JPII stands outside the entrance.QOpen 09:00-16:00; closed Sun. Admission 14/8zł.

THE WAWEL DRAGON

Standing on the Wisła riverbank in the shade of Wawel Castle (I-8) is a rather ugly likeness of the Wawel Dragon (Smok Wawelski), who - according to local legend once reposed in the large cave behind him when not out and about in town scarfing up sheep and virgins. Finally vanquished when he was tricked into eating a virginal sheep-shaped bag of sulphur, this pyrotechnic monument in his honour was unveiled in 1972 to a design by the local artist Bronisław Chromy. Although not our favourite, it is extremely popular with the kids you’ll find climbing all over it. It was once possible to send Smok an SMS which would send him into instant fits of fire-breathing bliss, but nowadays he does it without checking his phone first, so just be patient and don’t look down his throat. Outside the entrance of Wawel Cathedral (I-7), you may also notice an odd collection of massive bones chained up on the left of the front door. While legend obviously purports these to be the bones of Wawel’s fearsome dragon, more pragmatic wisdom has claimed they might be parts belonging to a blue whale, woolly mammoth, rhinoceros, or all three. At any rate, they haven’t been removed and inspected for centuries due to their magical properties, which are credited with protecting the city from destruction during centuries of Polish partition and particularly during WWII when almost every other major city in Poland got pancaked.

Immune to destruction or scientific study, Kraków’s owes its survival to these bones.

Kazimierz Walking Tour WALKING TOUR IYP’s self-guided walking tour of Kazimierz weaves you through the district’s major points of interest, from the ‘Miodowa’ tram stop (now the main point of entry by tram due to the current closure of several tramlines) to Plac Wolnica, from which point you’re well-positioned to carry on into Podgórze across the river (p.42). Though Kazimierz is less than a ten-minute walk from Wawel, and you can obviously start from at any point on the map, the current closure of Stradomska and Krakowska Streets makes the walk less pleasant, which is why we recommend starting on the east side of the neighbourhood; take trams 3, 13, 24, 69, 74 or 77 and get off at ‘Miodowa.’ The walking route is less than 1.5km and can be done in as little as 30 minutes if you refuse to take more than a passing interest in anything; for those that have the time to spend we reckon it will comfortably occupy a few hours.

Old Synagogue (p.36)

Kazimierz – the district south of the Old Town between ul. Dietla to the north and the Wisła River to the south - was the centre of Jewish life in Kraków for over 500 years, before it was systematically destroyed during World War II. In the communist era Kazimierz became one of Kraków’s dodgiest districts while gradually falling into disrepair. Rediscovered in the 1990s, thanks to the fall of the regime and worldwide exposure through the lens of Steven Spielberg, Kazimierz began its rebound and is today arguably Kraków’s most exciting district – a bustling, bohemian neighbourhood packed with historical sites, atmospheric cafes, art shops and galleries. Well-known for its associations with Schindler and Spielberg, traces of Kazimierz’s Jewish history have not only survived, but literally abound in the form of the district’s numerous synagogues and Jewish cemeteries. In fact, no other place in Europe conveys a sense of pre-war Jewish culture better than Kazimierz. As a result, the district has become a major tourist draw and pilgrimage site for Jews, and contemporary Jewish culture has gradually returned to prove that there’s more to Kazimierz than just sepia photographs and old synagogues. In addition to Jewish culture, however, here you’ll find the heart of Kraków’s artistic, bohemian character behind the wooden shutters of dozens of antique shops and art galleries. Peeling façades and obscure courtyards hide dozens of bars and cafes, many affecting an air of prewar timelessness. Centred around the former Jewish square now known as Plac Nowy, Kazimierz has emerged as the city’s best destination for café culture, street food and nightlife. Alternative, edgy and packed with oddities, Kazimierz is an essential point of interest to any visitor. 34

1 UL. SZEROKA From the corner of Miodowa and Starowislna, take the footpath slightly uphill past the food trucks to reach ul. Szeroka - perhaps Kazimierz’s most characteristic street, though it really resembles more of a public square. ‘Szeroka’ actually means ‘wide’ in Polish, so in a sense this is Kraków’s very own ‘Broad Street.’ The street originally served as the town square of a small 12th-century village known as Bawół, which was absorbed into Kazimierz in 1340, a few years after the latter was awarded its charter. In the late 15th century Jews banished from Kraków started settling in this area, and three synagogues were established on the square over the course of three centuries, namely the Old Synagogue, Remuh Synagogue and Popper Synagogue - all of three of which survive to this day (p.36).

The epicentre of Jewish heritage tourism in Kraków, among the other main points of interest on ul. Szeroka are the ‘Klezmer Hois’ Jewish restaurant (p.99) and hotel (which you pass on your left as you enter Szeroka), in the basement on which was a 16th-century Jewish bath house (mikvah). Nearby, the small patch of grass at the north end of the square was probably established as a cemetery for plague victims; today it is a memorial and “Place of meditation upon the martyrdom of 65,000 Polish citizens of Jewish nationality from Cracow,” as a large stone monument explains. You’ll also notice a monument of Jan Karski - ‘Righteous Among the Nations’ for his early efforts to alert the Western Allies of the Holocaust - beside the Remuh Synagogue (ul. Szeroka 40), and just past it the lane leading to ul. Miodowa has been staged to resemble a row of pre-war Jewish shop fronts (actually the ‘Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu’ restaurant, p.99). For great views of the entire street and beyond all the way to Wawel, head up to the rooftop bar of Rubinstein restaurant (nr. 12), named so after cosmetics mogul Helena Rubinstein, who was born next door in the green building at number 15.QK‑8.

Kazimierz Walking Tour

Ulica Szeroka. Read this section out loud to gain your own group of followers. Starowiślna

Św. Sebastiana

Joselewicza

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High Synag.

Old Synag.

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Przemyska

Galicia Jewish Museum

Św. Wawrzyńca

Dajwór

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100

200

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Wisła Cricoteka

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Podgórska Uprisings Bridge

Piłsudski Bridge

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Bernatek Footbridge

Podgórska

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New Jewish Cemetery

Popper Synagogue

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Halicka

Starowiślna

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Jan Karski Bench

Remuh 2 Synagogue

Isaac Synagogue

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Dom Esterki Try nita rsk a

Corpus Christi Church

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Węg łowa Ethnographic Museum Plac 15 Pla Wolnica

Plac Wolnica

Plac Nowy

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Judaica 10 Foundation

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16 Skałka & the Pauline Monastery

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Grunw aldzki Bridge

Kazimierz Walking Tour 0

NEW JEWISH CEMETERY

This enormous cemetery was established in 1800 and was the burial ground for many of Kraków’s distinguished Jews in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Its story takes on a darker aspect with the decimation of the Jewish population between 1939 and 1945. Many of the tombstones are actually no more than memorials to entire families that were killed in the Holocaust, which now lie in overgrown clusters. The rejuvenation of Kazimierz has not fully penetrated the walls of the New Cemetery, but there are many newly-lit candles burning over the headstones. An undeniably evocative place for a reflective walk, please cover your head upon entry. QL‑7, ul. Miodowa 55. Open 09:00-16:30; closed Sat. 2 REMUH SYNAGOGUE & CEMETERY Dating from 1553, this is Kraków’s smallest but most active synagogue, with Shabbat services once again taking place here each Friday following the recent completion of restoration works. The synagogue was established by the family famous 16th century Polish rabbi Moses Isserles - better known as ‘the Rema,’ based on a Hebrew acronym, and is unique for the proximity of the Old Jewish Cemetery adjacent to it. In use until 1800, this holy burial ground fell into utter ruin during Nazi occupation with only a dozen tombstones surviving WWII in their original state; among them was that of Rabbi Moses Isserles, which many interpreted as proof of his miraculous power. After the war the cemetery was ‘tidied up’ with many of the intact tombstones being rearranged in straight rows, and fragments of those which could not be restored used to create a ‘wailing wall’ along ulica Szeroka. Today the cemetery and synagogue - whose modestly decorated interior features a reconstructed bimah and restored ceiling motifs - are an important pilgrimage site for devout Jews from all over the world.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 40, tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35, www.krakow.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:0016:00; Fri 10:00-14:00; closed Sat. Admission 10/5zł.

3 POPPER SYNAGOGUE Tucked behind a gated courtyard, nestled between the street’s Jewish restaurants, you’ll find Popper Synagogue the least celebrated of ul. Szeroka’s Jewish places of worship. Built in 1620 by wealthy Jewish merchant Wolf Popper, the building was devastated during WWII such that none of its interiors survived; in fact little is known of them. Converted into a cultural centre (Dom Kultury) during the PRL era, the synagogue was only recently returned to the hands of the Jewish community and is now under the stewardship of Austeria - a publishing house and bookshop specialising in Judaica (literature, history and guide books in a number of languages). A colourful Jewish-themed mural can be found in the courtyard here, and upstairs is a small gallery space with changing exhibits that typically charges admission.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 16, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 89. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00. 4 OLD SYNAGOGUE Built on the cusp of the 16th century, this is the oldest surviving example of Jewish religious architecture in Poland, and home to a fine exhibit showcasing the history and traditions of Polish Judaism. Unfortunately, the interiors are currently closed for renovations. QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 24, tel. (+48) 12 422 09 62, www. muzeumkrakowa.pl. 5 KOWEA ITIM LE-TORA PRAYER HOUSE Directly between the Old and High synagogues you’ll find this Orthodox prayer house. Most of what we know of the building is based off of its still-just-visible Hebrew inscription, which says something along the lines of ‘Making Time for the Torah Society,’ and indicates that Talmud lessons were conducted here. The two Stars of David on either side of the inscription tell us that the organisation was founded in 1810 and that the building was renovated in 1912. The original mezuzah trace can be seen on the doorway here, and on many buildings in the district if you keep your eye out. Devastated during the war, today the building is strictly residential.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 42.

Kowea Itim le-Tora Prayer House

Kazimierz Walking Tour

Facade and entrance of the High Synagogue. 6 HIGH SYNAGOGUE Just in case you thought Kraków had a lot of churches, further on you’ll find the third oldest synagogue in Kraków, completed in 1563. Unique for having its prayer room upstairs, it’s widely speculated that the High synagogue was designed as such to protect the congregation from unfriendly neighbours. The design didn’t save it from being the subject of arson during WWII sadly, and today no original furnishings remain. The mostly white-washed upstairs prayer room has retained only scant details from the original wall frescos, however, the Aron Kodesh (torah ark) - which includes two small griffins - has survived. The size of the high-ceilinged room indicates that it was once a magnificent space, but today it represents a minor detour on a tour of Kazimierz, hosting a small exhibit of photos and family histories of Cracovian Jews from the inter-war period. On the ground floor is Austeria - a large bookstore with books of Jewish interest in a variety of languages.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 38, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 89. Open 09:30-18:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 09:30-19:00. Admission to upstairs exhibit 12/9zł, children under 10 free. 7 KAZIMIERZ HISTORICAL MURAL Installed outside Pub Wręga in 2015 as part of the Kazimierz Historical Murals project, this mural by Piotr Janowczyk features portraits of five Polish historical figures - namely, (from left to right) Emperor Józef Hapsburg II, Helena Rubinstein (born in the district), Karol Knaus (local architect, artist and conservator), Esterka (the Jewish lover of King Kazimierz the Great), and finally King Kazimierz the Great himself. Information on each character can be found in English beside the work.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 17. 8 ISAAC SYNAGOGUE Turning from ul. Józefa down ul. Kupa leads you to the Isaac Synagogue. Built in early Judaic-Baroque style, the Isaac Synagogue was a gift to the city from Izaak Jakubowicz, and opened in 1644. The design is endowed with decorative arabesques and arches, yet retains a sober linearity, especially within, and features fragments of original wall scriptures. QK‑8, ul. Kupa 18, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 22, www.chabadkrakow.org. Open 08:00-18:00; Fri 08:0014:30; Sat closed. From March open 08:00-20:00; Fri 08:00-14:30; Sat closed. Admission 10/6zł.

Kazimierz Walking Tour

9 PLAC NOWY Doing a dogleg down ul. Izaaka and ul. Estery leads you inevitably to Plac Nowy and the heart of Kazimierz. Despite recent efforts to spruce it up with potted trees, Plac Nowy has always lacked the splendour of the Old Town and been something of an eyesore – an asphalt square filled with food hatches, market stalls and rat-like pigeons. If you want something completely different from the Old Town, however, here it is.

Incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late 1600s, Plac Nowy (New Square) didn’t really begin assuming its shape until the early 19th century, with its central landmark, the Okrąglak (rotunda), added as late as 1900. For generations this square was referred to by locals as Plac Żydowski (Jewish Square); not only was it the primary marketplace of the Jewish quarter, but the rotunda served as a ritual slaughterhouse for poultry right up until Nazi occupation. Today butcher shops still occupy the interior, but the real activity is outside where hungry locals of every ilk line-up in front of hole-in-the-wall food hatches to enjoy the best ‘zapiekanki’ (p.79) in Poland. Essentially a French bread pizza with the toppings of your choice, visiting Kraków without eating a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be like visiting Dublin without having a Guinness. Merchant stalls surround the rotunda, and daily markets last until early afternoon. Fresh produce, sweets and random rubbish are constant guarantees, but weekly highlights include junk/antique sale Saturdays, Sunday’s clothing market, and Friday morning’s bewildering small critter expo/pigeon fair. A photo essay waiting to happen, arrive between 05:30 and 08:00 to the latter to learn the answer to the riddle, ‘How many rabbits fit in a suitcase?’

KAZIMIR ・・ MIODOWA 11

CAFÉ

RESTAURANT

BAR

As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a new guise: Kraków’s premier pub crawl circuit. Full of shambolic charm, veteran boozers Singer (p.111) and Alchemia (p.107) put Plac Nowy on the nightlife map, and remain the square’s best bets for candlelit, pre-war mystique. In recent years the bars on offer have begun to diversify, but the fact of the matter remains that this bohemian outpost is one of Kraków’s most interesting and exciting nightlife destinations.QK‑8.

Kazimierz Walking Tour

10 JUDAICA FOUNDATION Located inside a former Jewish prayer house which was in operation from the 1880s up until WWII, this building on the corner of Plac Nowy was saved from ruin, renovated, and opened as a Jewish cultural centre in 1993. Today it subsists on a steady diet of lectures, concerts, art exhibits, film screenings and other events that reflect Jewish life in Poland’s past and present. In the cellar you’ll find an antique store and bookshop full of Judaica, while the ground floor hosts the Sara cafe/bar (open 10:00 - 22:00), whose small rooftop garden (open April to September) is one of Kazimierz’s best-kept secrets.QK‑8, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 49, www.judaica.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-16:00. 11 TEMPLE SYNAGOGUE Exit Plac Nowy via ul. Estery and you’ll run straight into the JCC and adjoining Temple Synagogue. Kazimierz’s newest synagogue dates back to 1862, with several later expansions, the most recent of which was in 1924. Under Nazi occupation the building was used as a warehouse and stables, yet survived the war and regular services were even held here until 1968, before stopping completely a decade later. Since restoration, the gilded woodwork within now plays host to many concerts and occasional religious ceremonies, particularly during the annual Jewish Festival of Culture each summer.QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11, www.krakow.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:0016:00; Fri 10:00-14:00; closed Sat. Admission 10/5zł.

12 JEWISH COMMUNITY CENTRE Opened in 2008 by the Prince of Wales, the JCC is the headquarters of Kraków’s surviving and strengthening Jewish community and organises numerous events, lectures, exhibits, tours and community programmes with the aim of rebuilding Jewish life in Kraków. A friendly first point of contact for anyone wanting to know more about Kraków’s Jewish community, walk-ins are welcome; or check their website or FB page to see what’s going on.QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 75, www.jcckrakow.org. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00.

Temple Synagogue

Kazimierz Walking Tour 13 KUPA SYNAGOGUE Continuing down ul. Miodowa you’ll quickly find another synagogue on your right side. The unfortunately-named Kupa synagogue was founded in 1643, using funds from the local kahal/qahal (mi-kupat ha-kahal) - the autonomous Jewish government - which explains where the name comes from, but doesn’t change the fact that ‘kupa’ means ‘poop’ in Polish (oh well). Designed in Baroque style with a square prayer room, the synagogue shares a wall with the original Kazimierz city defensive walls, which can still be seen today. During the war it was looted and many architectural elements were destroyed, including the bimah. Restored in 2002, the interior features 1920s ceiling paintings of Biblical scenes and holy places by an unknown artist, as well as zodiac symbols on the balcony. An informational pamphlet in English is available, and there is also a small photo exhibit in the upstairs women’s gallery.QK‑8, ul. Warszauera 8 (entrance from ul. Miodowa 27), tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35, www.krakow.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Fri 10:0014:00; closed Sat. Admission 10/5zł.

ULICA JAKUBA Making a right onto ul. Jakuba, it’s very unfortunate that one of the first things you’ll likely see here (and all around Kraków) is some crude anti-Semitic graffiti saying ‘Jude Gang wita’ (The Jew Gang welcomes you). Though locals will argue it isn’t directed towards the Jewish community at all, but relates to the nasty football rivalry between Wisła and Cracovia, the latter of which was largely supported and financed by Jews when it was established way back before WWII, therefore their Gentile hardcore ‘fans’ are called/call themselves ‘Jews’... Well, that sounds pretty problematic to us, particularly in this town. Anyway, Krakow’s hooligans welcome you to what could only be Cracovia turf. Moving right along... The entire left side of ul. Jakuba is occupied by a restored medieval wall running along the back of the Remuh Cemetery. A few portals featuring the Star of David allow you to peer in, but you can get some great views of the entire cemetery by ducking into the garden of the Opium bar (nr. 19) and heading up to their terrace if it’s open.

Maybe putting this in a tourist guide will make it disappear? Does anybody read this thing? Bueller?

Mural on Plac Bawół

Carrying on further brings you to the back of Isaac Synagogue again and the Plac Izaaka food truck park (p.92). Hang a left here down narrow and picturesque ul. Lemkowa to return to the Old Synagogue. If you walk down the Old Synagogue steps you can cut across to ul. Dajwór and the Galicia Jewish Museum; as you cross the street make sure to take note of the large-scale mural on Plac Bawół to your right, which was inspired by the Jewish family that lived in the building for 400 years before relocating to Israel after WWII. 14 GALICIA JEWISH MUSEUM The Galicia Jewish Museum also features a huge mural on its exterior wall, and a journey deep into the adjacent garden reveals further murals of Irena Sendler (Righteous Among the Nations) and Marek Edelman (leader of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising). Inside, the permanent exhibit of this popular museum keeps the memory of Jewish life in the region alive via hundreds of photographs documenting Jewish heritage sites in former ‘Galicia’ - the name of the ethnically diverse province of the Austrian Habsburg Empire, which existed from 1772-1918 and extended from Kraków to Ternopil (present-day Ukraine). The images of forgotten cemeteries, derelict synagogues and death camps prove haunting and sober viewing, and deserve to be part of any Kazimierz tour. The museum also houses temporary exhibits, a large bookstore and a cafe. Across the street is a food truck park (p.92).QL‑8, ul. Dajwór 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68 42, www.galiciajewishmuseum.org. Open 10:00-18:00. Admission 17/12zł, children under 7 free. U

UL. ŚW. WAWRZYŃCA Named after Saint Lawrence, this long street which leads you from the Galicia Jewish Museum to Plac Wolnica was one of the most industrialised streets in the city in the early 1900s, and the city’s electrical power plant and gas works both remain hidden here in the spacious territory between ul. Wawrzyńca and the river. Several points of interest can be found along this street, the first, and most enticing of which, is the Judah Square Food Truck Park (p.92) and the large mural by Israeli street artist Pil Peled that presides over it. Next, on the same side of the street is the former Jewish school, today a pubic high school.

Kazimierz Walking Tour If you follow the tram tracks beneath your feet, you’ll notice that they run astray off the left side of the street about halfway down the road, and go no further. This is Kazimierz’s late 19th century tram depot, today home to the Engineering Museum - one of the city’s more charming and family-friendly museums. The second half of this huge and historical transportation complex is actually across the street and today host to the sprawling Stara Zajezdnia (p.111) brewery, beer hall and restaurant - an incredibly popular summer beer garden. Heading on from the tram depot, the entire final two city blocks to Plac Wolnica on the right side belong to the church, Corpus Christi Church to be exact. One of the city’s largest holy sites, this massive brick beauty is a three-naver in Gothic style and dates back to the 14th century. According to legend, a robber who had stolen a holy relic repented on this spot, abandoning the reliquary. The priests in pursuit saw a strange light emanating from the ground and discovering their sacred prize, founded a church here in recognition of the miracle.QK‑9, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca. 15 PLAC WOLNICA Arriving on Plac Wolnica today, it’s hard to imagine that this square was once equal in size and stature to Kraków’s Rynek Główny. When laid out as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek Kazimierski) upon the town’s establishment in 1335, this space measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter on each side than Rynek Główny) making it the second largest market square in Poland, if not Europe. It was here that all the administrative and judicial authorities of Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco to salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace it once was, today’s Plac Wolnica covers only a small fragment of the square’s original size. Fortunately the Town Hall which stood at its very centre has managed to survive. Falling into ruin after Kazimierz’s incorporation into Kraków in 1802, the Town Hall was taken over by local Jewish authorities who renovated it into its present neo-Renaissance style in the late 19th century. A curious plaque on the building commemorates the arrival of the Jews to Poland in the Middle Ages, and since WWII the Town Hall has housed the Ethnographic Museum (p.56).

SKAŁKA

16 SKAŁKA & THE PAULINE MONASTERY

This gorgeous riverside sanctuary is one of the most important religious sites in Poland. It was here that the Bishop of Kraków, Saint Stanisław of Szczepanów, was beheaded on the order of King Bolesław II; soon after, the king was exiled and the royal family fell under a curse. To appease the spirit of the wronged bishop, the family rebuilt this church and made annual pilgrimages here from Wawel to atone for the murder - a tradition which continues to this day each May 8th. Since 1472 a monastic order of Pauline Fathers has resided at Skałka, and in the 18th century the church received a Baroque refurb, which endures to this day. Stanisław was canonised in 1253, becoming the patron saint not only of Kraków, but of Poland. Inside an altar marks the place where he was killed and includes the wood stump upon which he is said to have been quartered. The pool where his remains were thrown still stands outside the church, elegantly adorned with a 17th century sculpture of the saint, and its waters are said to have healing properties. In 2008, the ‘Three Millennia Altar’ was built in the courtyard of the church, which features four-metre monuments of St. Stanisław, St. John Paul II, St. Faustyna, St. Jadwiga, St. Adalbert, St. Jan Kanty, and Abbot Augustyn Kordecki. The crypt at Skałka (open 09:00 - 17:00; admission 3.50/2.50zł) is also a national pantheon for distinguished Poles, and includes the remains of writer Czesław Miłosz, painters Stanisław Wyspiański and Jacek Malczewski, among others.QI‑9, ul. Skałeczna 15, tel. (+48) 12 421 72 44, www.skalka. paulini.pl. Open 07:00-20:00.

Despite the square’s former status, Kazimierz’s urban revitalisation over the last two decades was slower to reach Plac Wolnica than Kazimierz’s once predominantly Jewish neighbourhoods around Plac Nowy, but the square was making good progress, hosting a range of cultural events as cafes and restaurants have sprouted up along its edges. Ironically, however, the renovation of ul. Krakowska begun in summer 2019 has turned Plac Wolnica back into a car park; here’s hoping it won’t stay that way for long (where are we supposed to play frisbee?). A trip from here down ulica Mostowa will lead you straight to the Bernatek footbridge and into Podgórze (p.42).QK‑9. 41

Podgórze communism, the opening of the world-class Schindler’s Factory Museum (p.47) in 2010 not only helped the city come to terms with the ghosts of the Holocaust, it also established Podgórze as a bona fide destination for tourists. The construction of the Bernatek footbridge soon afterwards opened the floodgates even further, creating a direct link from Plac Wolnica (p.47) to Rynek Podgórski (p.50) and leading to a burst of cafes and restaurants on the other side of the river. Today Podgórze is accepted as an obligatory part of the Kraków tourist trail, but still retains an evocative atmosphere of anguish and independence that sets it apart from Kraków’s other neighbourhoods. To get the most out of it, make time to explore its mysterious, lesserknown landmarks in addition to its marquee museums.

OLD PODGÓRZE

Liban Quarry (p.49) | photo by Przemek Czaja; madeinkrakow.pl

Just across the river from Kazimierz lies Podgórze - a large district rich in natural beauty, tragic history and unusual attractions. The name means ‘foothills,’ and its unique geography makes it one of Krakow’s greenest districts and most exciting to explore, thanks to wooded hills, limestone cliffs and ridges that offer panoramic views of the city centre. It is this same sinister geography, however, which resulted in Podgórze being the site of the city’s greatest human tragedy. The Nazis saw its natural placement between the river and the cliffs of Krzemionki as the ideal place for establishing a prison district, and in March of 1941 Kraków’s Jewish population was marched into the centre of Podgórze and walled off in what became known as the Kraków Ghetto (p.44). Liquidated two years later, the majority of the Ghetto’s residents were murdered inside, while others met death in the nearby KL Płaszów concentration camp (p.49), or in the gas chambers of Auschwitz (p.74) and Bełżec. Traces of the Ghetto (p.45) are still visible today, and Podgórze’s wartime history and connections to Oskar Schindler remain what people most associate with the district. However, Podgórze has a long history which dates back over 10,000 years ago to the city’s founding myth. Legend explains Podgórze’s Krakus Mound (p.48) as the burial place of the city’s first ruler, and scientific studies have proven it to be Kraków’s most ancient structure dating back to the Iron Age. Podgórze also has a proud tradition of independence, having been granted the rights of a free city in 1784 by the Austrian Emperor Joseph II. Incorporated into greater Kraków in 1915, the district proudly reasserted its independence when on October 31st, 1918 local militants led by Antoni Stawarz seized control of the district from the Austrian Army in what is regarded as the first the action of the Second Republic of Poland following WWI. Although slow to develop in the years after the fall of 42

Begin by crossing over the picturesque Bernatek footbridge and enjoy the neighbourhood atmosphere of the cafes, ice cream parlours and restaurants immediately along ul. Brodzińskiego en route to Rynek Podgórski to see the stunning St. Joseph’s Church (p.41). Next work your way to Podgórze’s other main square - Plac Bohaterów Getta, today a memorial for the victims of the Ghetto. Ulica Jozefińska will not only lead you that way, but also still possesses a certain aura from those times; keep your eyes peeled for plaques on sides of buildings dedicated to the time of the Ghetto, and also an enormous mural dedicated to local sci-fi author Stanisław Lem. For those that don’t have the strength for the 3-hour undertaking that is the Schindler’s Factory Museum (or Auschwitz for that matter), the Eagle Pharmacy on Plac Bohaterów Getta (p.45) provides a manageable (but just as moving) alternative, particularly for those with an interest in the wartime experience of the city’s Jewish community; if you’re more of a general WWII buff, you’ll probably prefer the larger scope of Schindler’s Factory. Head to the latter via the Plac Bohaterów Getta underpass and then down ul. Kącik, or make a detour to see a stretch of the original Ghetto Wall (p.45) still standing on ul. Lwowska. BERNATEK FOOTBRIDGE Opened in 2010, the Father Bernatek Footbridge straddles the Wisła River linking the districts of Kazimierz and Podgórze. With a twin walkway design by local architect Andrzej Getter, the 130m-long structure exclusively accommodates pedestrians and cyclists and has become beloved for its convenience and aesthetic appeal. The bridge has also played a key role in the revitalisation of the route from Plac Wolnica to Rynek Podgórski, which is now perfect for a pub crawl or a romantic stroll. It’s here, after all, that couples have adopted the tradition of attaching padlocks engraved with their names, and then throwing the keys into the river (while the rest of us throw up in our mouths), to prove the permanence of their love. Since 2016, the bridge has been adorned with nine acrobatic, gravity-defying sculptures by Jerzy Kędziora, which we hope stay there forever.QK‑9.

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Podgórze THE JEWISH GHETTO Before World War II, Kraków was an important cultural centre for approximately 65,000 Jews – 25% of the city’s total population. Following German occupation in Sept. 1939, systematic persecution of the Jewish community began almost immediately, leading up to the Nazi order in April 1940 to turn Kraków into a “Jew-free city,” after which more than 50,000 Jews were forcibly deported to labour camps. In March 1941 the Nazi government decreed the establishment of a new ‘Jewish Housing District’ on the right bank of the Wisła River in Podgórze. The ‘Kraków Ghetto’ initially comprised a 20 hectare (50 acre) space of some 320 mostly one- and two-story buildings in Podgórze’s historic centre, surrounded by a 3 metre high wall (remnants of which can still be seen today). 3,000 Gentile residents were removed from the area, replaced by some 16,000 Jews whose property and possessions were confiscated with the exception of what they could carry. Thousands of unregistered Jews also entered seeking protection, and in October 1941 a further 6,000 Jews from around Małopolska were forced into the ghetto, bringing its total population to about 24,000, with an average living space of less than 2 metres per person.

RYNEK PODGÓRSKI This handsome triangular plot was once the official main market ‘square’ of the Free City of Podgórze, until the independent city was absorbed into Kraków in 1915. The marketplace was laid out in the 18th century at the foot of Lasota Hill, where roads leading to Kraków, Kalwaria, and Wieliczka intersected. Once frequented by merchants from regional cities and more distant parts of Austria-Hungary, the Rynek had to say goodbye to commerce in 1917 when a new tram line was added, its turning loop taking up most of the trading space (oh modernity). Though the loop was eventually moved, the markets never resumed, and today the quiet square is mostly lined with residential buildings, save for the iconic St. Joseph’s Church dominating the south end, and two former Town Halls - the ‘Under the White Eagle’ manor at no. 14 (early 19th century to 1854), and the stately building at no. 1 (1854-1915, now the Kraków City Council Department of Architecture). It was beside the latter that a main gate into the Jewish Ghetto stood on ul. Limanowskiego during WWII (L-10).

Following the Wannsee Conference in January 1942, the Nazis began to initiate ‘The Final Solution’ – Hitler’s systematic plan for the annihilation of European Jewry. From late May 1942 brutal round-ups became a regular occurrence in the ghetto with residents shot in the streets and marched under gunpoint from Plac Zgody (today ‘Plac Bohaterów Getta,’) into cattle cars at the Płaszów train station, most of which were bound for the death camp in Bełżec. The territory of the ghetto was gradually reduced by authorities, as those ablebodied enough were commuted daily to work on the construction of the nearby KL Płaszów labour camp. As soon as enough barracks had been built, 6,000 Jews still deemed ‘productive’ by the Nazis were moved to KL Płaszów permanently, and the order for the final liquidation of the Kraków Ghetto was given. March 14th 1943 was the bloodiest day in Podgórze’s history as German troops attempted to herd the remaining residents into transports Chaos reigned. It’s estimated that as many as 2,000 people were killed in the streets, and 3,000 left via cattle car directly to the gas chambers in Auschwitz. The Kraków Ghetto essentially disappeared two years after its establishment and the KL Płaszów Concentration Camp was born (p.49). To learn more about Kraków’s Jewish Ghetto, read our online feature at iyp.me/krakowghetto, and visit the Eagle Pharmacy museum. 44

The awe-inspiring Neo-Gothic St. Joseph’s Church Podgórze’s primary house of worship - was built between 1905-09 to the design of Jan Sas-Zubrzycki. Dominated by an 80m clock tower, elaborate masonry dressing, gargoyles and sculptures of saints, St. Joseph’s slender, yet imposing brick facade rates among the most beautiful in Kraków and is gorgeously illuminated at night. The interior is no less beautiful and the area behind the church has been turned into a small landscape park featuring benches and tables, a play area for young children, and the 1832 belfry - all that remains of the original temple.QK/L‑10, Rynek Podgórski.

Podgórze PLAC BOHATERÓW GETTA First plotted out in 1836, this public square just across the river from the Powstańców Śląskich bridge has had a turbulent history, with turns as a marketplace, horse stable, execution site, taxi rank and bus terminal over the years. During the time of the Kraków Ghetto it was at once the source of the residents’ greatest relief and also the scene of their greatest horrors and humiliation. As the ghetto’s largest open space, Plac Zgody was a place for people to socialise, relax and escape the oppressive overcrowding of the tenements. It was also the site of families being torn apart, mass deportations to the death camps, beatings and executions. Following deportations and the final liquidation of the ghetto, Plac Zgody was strewn with furniture, clothes, luggage and other belongings that the victims had been forced to abandon - this image would later inspire the redesign of the square. Though after the war the name of Plac Zgody was changed to Plac Bohaterów Getta (Ghetto Heroes Square) and a small monument was erected, the space’s historical significance never felt more pertinent than its post-war use as a public toilet or parking lot. Finally, after decades of neglect, Plac Bohaterów Getta was renovated in 2005, sparking significant controversy over the design. Laid out with 70 large well-spaced metal chairs meant to symbolise departure, as well as subsequent absence, the entire square has essentially been turned into an odd, but iconic memorial to the victims of the Kraków Ghetto. A place for candles and reflection was created in the former German guardhouse at the north end of the square, however the gesture rings hollow considering the space is always locked.QL‑9. EAGLE PHARMACY (APTEKA POD ORŁEM) When the Nazis created the Jewish ghetto in Podgórze in 1941, this pharmacy and its Polish owner Tadeusz Pankiewicz found themselves at the very heart of it. Deciding to stay, Pankiewicz and his staff were the only Poles allowed to live and work in the ghetto and over the two years of the ghetto’s existence, their pharmacy became an important centre of social life, resource for acquiring food, medicine and falsified documents and a safehouse for avoiding deportations. Pankiewicz (recognised today as ‘Righteous Among the Nations’) and his staff risked their lives in many clandestine operations while bearing witness to tragedy through the windows of the pharmacy as the ghetto and its 15,000 inhabitants were ultimately ‘liquidated.’ Today the building is a museum, recreated to look as it did during Nazi occupation, which heartrendingly describes life in the Kraków Ghetto via first-hand testimonials and hands-on displays that create a very intimate visiting experience. Though only 5 rooms, set aside at least an hour for visiting this excellent museum.QL‑10, Pl. Bohaterów Getta 18, tel. (+48) 12 656 56 25, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Mon 10:00-14:00. Closed 2nd Tue of every month. Admission 14/10 zł. Mon free.

GHETTO WALL FRAGMENTS

UL. LWOWSKA 25-29 In 1983 a commemorative plaque was added to this prominent 12m stretch of the original ghetto wall, which reads in Hebrew and Polish: “Here they lived, suffered and died at the hands of the German torturers. From here they began their final journey to the death camps.”QM‑10. UL. LIMANOWSKIEGO 62 An even longer and arguably more evocative section of the original ghetto wall can ironically be seen in the playground behind the primary school at ul. Limanowskiego 60/62. If you’re fit, climb the steep hill in the back of the playground straight up to the Old Podgórze Cemetery, to the right from which is the abandoned Fort Benedict and Lasota Hill (p.48).QM‑11. 45

Podgórze EAT & DRINK Though the range of places to eat in Podgórze has exploded in recent years, here are some places worth seeking out that you might not otherwise find. EUSKADI With an expert chef, imported Spanish products and fresh seafood flown in from Venice, this tiny restaurant is Kraków’s only Basque eatery. The menu offers Spanish wines and an exotic range of tapas, the simple descriptions of which don’t do justice to their rich flavour - meat and cheese plates, olives, octopus, fried shrimp (amazing), fried ham croquettes (delicious), rabbit livers (we weren’t brave enough). Designed for sharing, we suggest you order at least four dishes per person, and with each around 28zł, it’s not the cheapest meal out. Still, with its super casual and social atmosphere, Euskadi successfully captures the Spanish approach to dining. Gather a few friends and make a reservation.QK‑10, ul. Kazimierza Brodzińskiego 4, tel. (+48) 535 48 40 56, www.euskadi.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:30. €€. TU6 MANZANA Hidden in what appears at first scan to be a random parking lot, this is Kraków’s most authentic Mexican eatery by miles, even though the menu actually skews more Tex-Mex. The taquitos and quesadillas are delish, and the nachos are enormous (the smaller size is plenty). Though prices are pegged a bit high, the atmosphere is comfortably relaxed, making Manzana the kind of place you’d want to frequent often - which it would appear many ex-pat families do. With daily specials - including the obligatory Taco Tuesday, great food, and the largest selection of tequilas in town... you know, we’re really quite fond of this place.QL‑10, ul. Krakusa 11, tel. (+48) 514 78 68 13, www.manzanarestaurant.com. Open 09:00-22:00; Fri 09:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. €€. T NAD & GREG FRENCH BAKERY This gourmet patisserie really has its act together. Created by the titular tag-team of Nad (French) and Greg (Belgian), it starts with their dedication to the craft - meticulously making each pastry, croissant, eclair, cake, macaron (and so much more!) by hand, from fresh seasonal fruits and the finest natural ingredients. You can really taste the difference; in fact you can see it too. This care extends to their packaging, displays and every aspect of the clean, contemporary interior. Located beyond the typical tourist track on Rynek Podgórski, N&G has become a favourite of local families turning their afternoon walk into a sweet indulgence; this is the kind of place you’re proud to patronise and have in your neighbourhood.QJ‑4, Rynek Podgórski 11, tel. (+48) 506 33 96 83, www.cukiernia-nadgreg.pl. Open 07:30-20:00; Sat, Sun 08:30-20:00. TU6 46

ZABŁOCIE Once you’ve crossed under the train tracks you’ve entered Zabłocie. Historically an industrial area that arose in the late 19th and early 20th century, many of Zabłocie’s state-run factories closed or stagnated after 1989. Today this is the city’s most rapidly developing neighbourhood as old factories and warehouses are being torn down and replaced with modern apartment complexes and office buildings, or in some cases converted into cultural venues and restaurants, as is the case along ul. Lipowa. Advertised as artsy and cutting-edge (by the realtors of its high-rent apartment buildings), in reality Zablocie is quickly becoming little more than a transit stop for tourists, and an overpopulated housing development full of young families lamenting the lack of trees in the neighbourhood. In addition to Schindler’s Factory, MOCAK is very much worth a visit, but if you aren’t interested in these museums there’s not much reason to investigate the area. LIPOWA 3 GLASS & CERAMICS CENTRE Located directly across from MOCAK, this building has been a glassworks since 1931 and actually flourished during the PRL-era when up to 500 people were employed here under the auspices of not only glass bottle production but also glass art, scientific research and industrial design. During the 1970s, ‘Cracovian glass’ achieved international renown for its bold experimentation with form, colour and texture, and today Lipowa 3 is still used for national glass research and production. The idea of an educational museum showcasing Polish glass and glassblowing technology has actually existed since 1972, with the museum finally opening in 2014. The permanent exhibit includes bilingual displays of historical glass tools and antique glassware, but the highlight is the impressive ‘Cracovian Glass Art Collection’ of contemporary coloured glassware produced here between 1931 and 1998. Live demonstrations of glass-blowing have unfortunately been suspended for winter. The ground floor includes a shop and a free gallery for rotating exhibits of contemporary glass art.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 3, tel. (+48) 12 423 67 90, www.lipowa3.pl. Open 08:00-16:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. From March open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00; closed Sun. Admission 8/6zł; from March 18/15zł.

Podgórze MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART (MOCAK) Opened in 2011, Krakow’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK) does not disappoint, capably holding its own with comparable international art institutions. Tucked behind Schindler’s Factory, the building alone will impress with its avant-garde styling and ultra-modern layout. The museum boasts a large and fine permanent collection of modern art highlighting both Polish and international artists, and there are always several provocative temporary exhibitions, plus a large cafe and bookshop. Despite the relatively late closing hour, make sure to leave yourself plenty of time to enjoy all the museum has to offer.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 01, www.mocak.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 14/7zł, Thu free (for permanent exhibit). U SCHINDLER’S FACTORY In 2010, the Oskar Schindler Enamelled Goods Factory re-opened to the public as a world-class museum. The story of Oskar Schindler and his employees is one which has been well-known since Steven Spielberg’s film Schindler’s List (which was shot almost entirely in Kraków) brought it to audiences across the world in 1993, and while that story is covered in detail here, the museum actually casts the city of Kraków in the main role of its permanent exhibition titled, ‘Kraków During Nazi Occupation 1939-1945.’ Individual histories of Kraków’s wartime inhabitants guide visitors through the exhibit which covers the war of 1939, everyday life under occupation, the fate of the Jews, the city’s underground resistance and more, using vast archival documents, photos, radio and film recordings, period artefacts and dynamic multimedia installations. Other exhibits change regularly, while a separate section of the original factory is reserved for film screenings, lectures and other events. A must-visit, Schindler’s Factory is one of the most fascinating museums in the entire country and we recommend you reserve at least two hours if you want to see everything. Tickets can be bought online three or more days in advance (www.bilety.mhk.pl), which we strongly recommend, because visitor numbers are controlled and you could be disappointed if the museum is too busy. In fact, groups over 15 people are obliged book in advance. To get to the museum take a tram to Pl. Bohaterów Getta (L-9) and it’s a 5-10 minute walk down ul. Kącik, under the train overpass, onto ul. Lipowa and you’re there.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 17, www. muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Mon 09:0014:00. Last entrance 1.5hrs before closing. 1st Tuesday of each month closed. Admission 26/22zł. Mon free for permanent exhibitions.

STREET ART

Liberator mural, ul. Dąbrowskiego 14 (M-10).

Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with Polish advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality; anyone who makes the strongly recommended visit to Kraków’s Dydo Poster Gallery (p.119) will discover why. With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would have a penchant for street graphics as well. And they do. In Kraków, as in other cities around PL, street art is going through a tidal wave of popularity, as businesses are increasingly turning to street artists to embellish their locales, and city authorities have even taken the surprising step of sponsoring large scale murals around the city centre. In fact, the emergence of street art as a growing and legitimised artistic discipline has created an interesting dichotomy in Kraków’s urban landscape between both sanctioned and unsanctioned works of ‘graffiti art’ and the prolific football-related gang signs and graffiti that city paint crews have targeted in their war on ‘vandalism.’ At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have little trouble tracking it down in Kraków. On our maps we’ve marked street art locations with a spray can symbol , so you can literally use them to give yourself a tour of Kraków’s urban art. Not only that, but we’ve also put it all online with GPS coordinates at iyp.me/krakowstreetart so that your smartphone can do the work for you. We encourage you to do just that, and check out some of Kraków’s alternative artistic visions.

SCHINDLER TOURS & TICKETS link bit.ly/SchindlersFactory

Ding Dong Dumb, ul. Piwna 3A (L-10).

Podgórze KRZEMIONKI In contrast, if you’re looking for more of an active outdoor adventure exploring Kraków’s less tourist-trampled territory, Krzemionki is for you. This scenic upshot of limestone cliffs rises above Old Podgórze and extends south all the way past Krakus Mound to the haunting grounds of KL Płaszów - the former Nazi concentration camp. One could enjoy an entire day just exploring the breadth of Bednarski Park between St. Joseph’s Church and the TV Tower, but for intrepid tourists we highly recommend trekking to the area of Lasota Hill and then beyond it to Krakus Mound and Liban Quarry. To do so you’ll probably want to set aside a couple hours. Pack some food and water since there may not be opportunities to buy any en route, and if you time it right you can enjoy panoramic views of the sun setting behind the Old Town from atop the Mound. LASOTA HILL Lasota Hill refers to the section of Krzemionki east of Bednarski Park, and home to many picturesque villas along ul. Parkowa, Plac Lasota and ul. Stawarza. Follow ul. Stawarza to its end - or alternatively venture up any of the forested dirt trails off of ul. Rękawka (our preferred route) - and you’ll soon inexplicably end up at the top of the hill in a strange meadow. Once a popular site for pagan worship, St. Benedict’s Church was built here in the 11th century specifically to put a frowny face on such practices. One of the city’s oldest churches, it is certainly the smallest. The second point of interest here is Fort Benedict, the only surviving fortress of three that were built in Podgórze in the mid-19th century. An imposing 16-sided brick monolith, today the fort stands abandoned with its future uncertain. Though you can certainly scramble through the fence to explore it up close, we’re sure you’ll find (like we did) that this fort is indeed impenetrable. It was on Lasota Hill that one of the most powerful scenes from Schindler’s List was filmed, in which Schindler and his wife stop here on horseback and witness a Nazi roundup taking place in the Jewish Ghetto below. This scene serves as the turning point for Schindler’s character as he focuses in on the ‘girl in the red coat’ - the otherwise black and white film’s most powerful visual device. Though in summer the trees are a bit too lush, in winter Lasota Hill does indeed offer semi-decent views of Podgórze, Kazimierz and the Old Town from its ridge. Look away from the centre and you’ll see Krakus Mound looming in the distance; actually closer than it looks, you’re only about a 20min walk away and the effort is worth it. Alternatively, follow the trail east behind fortress and you’ll find the Old Podgórze Cemetery, across from which a segment of the original Ghetto Wall still stands in the playground of a public school below.QM‑10/11. 48

KRAKUS MOUND The oldest structure in Kraków, Krakus Mound (Kopiec Krakusa) is one of two prehistoric monumental mounds in the city and is also its highest point, providing incredible panoramic views from its 16m summit. The site of pagan rituals for centuries, the mound retains an ancient, evocative atmosphere amplified by the surroundings of the cliffs of Krzemionki, the green rolling fields of Płaszów, the grim Liban quarry and the Podgórze cemetery. With incredible views of the city, Krakus Mound lies at the centre of one of Kraków’s least explored and most captivating areas and should be visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding detour from the beaten path. It can be approached most easily from the ‘Powstańców Wielkopolskich’ tram stop via ul. Robotnicza to the steps of al. Pod Kopcem (M-11), or by following ul. Dembowskiego (L/M-11) to the pedestrian bridge over al. Powstańców Wielkopolskich to the base of the mound. The result of great human effort and innovative engineering, Krakus Mound has long been a source of legend and mystery. Connected with the legend of Kraków’s mythical founder, King Krak or Krakus, the mound is said to have been constructed in honour of his death when noblemen and peasants filled their sleeves with sand and dirt, bringing it to this site in order to create an artificial mountain that would rule over the rest of the landscape. In the interwar period, extensive archaeological studies were undertaken to try to date the mound and verify if Krak was indeed buried beneath it. Though no grave was found, 8th century artefacts were uncovered, and it was determined that a massive 300-year-old oak, likely cut down in the 11th century when St. Benedict’s Church (M-10) was built nearby, once stood atop the mound. Originally four smaller mounds surrounded the base of Krakus mound, however these were levelled in the mid-19th century during the construction of the city’s first fortress which surrounded the area with a wall embankment and a moat (later levelled in 1954). The legend of Krakus Mound inspired the modern creation of burial mounds for Kościuszko and Piłsudski and today it remains one of Poland’s greatest archaeological mysteries.QM‑12, above ul. Maryewskiego.

Podgórze LIBAN QUARRY One of the creepiest, most forgotten places in Kraków, the Liban Quarry should first and foremost be a place of remembrance for the victims of the Nazi labour camp that operated here during WWII. That said, the site which largely lies in overgrown abandon today - offers adventurous visitors some intriguing opportunities for exploration, photography, and personal reflection. Left to slowly evolve into a nature sanctuary for local waterfowl, pheasants, birds of prey and various other creatures, the quarry’s towering limestone cliffs, ponds and dense vegetation are as breath-taking as the rusting refinery equipment, fence posts, gravestones and tangles of barbed wire (be careful!) that can still be found amongst the brush here. The Jewish limestone company ‘Liban and Ehrenpreis’ established a quarry here in 1873, and by the end of the 19th century a complex of buildings had been established inside and a railway line had been laid. During Nazi occupation, however, Liban was seized and set-up as a cruel penal camp where 800 Poles were forced to perform gruelling slave labour from 1942 to 1944. A small, discreet and currently inaccessible memorial for 21 inmates executed during the liquidation of the camp lies beyond the fence towards the ul. Za Torem end of the site.

KL PŁASZÓW

While hundreds of tourists use Kraków as a jumpingoff point for visiting Auschwitz, few realise that Kraków actually had a concentration camp in its own backyard. Deep in Podgórze, a large the tract of land behind Krakus Mound goes undeveloped and largely unvisited, despite being in one of the city’s most desirable commercial and residential areas. This is the former site of ‘Konzentrationslager Plaszow bei Krakau’ - the Nazi German concentration camp in Płaszów, today a wild, uneven expanse of grass, weeds and stone, which until recently gave little indication of its own existence, let alone the story of its wartime history. If you think you aren’t familiar with this story, you probably are. It was here that many of the real-life events Steven Spielberg’s blockbuster film Schindler’s List took place. While Schindler’s Factory opened to the public as a museum in 2010 (p.47), the site of the former Płaszów concentration camp has remained largely in the same state it was left by the Nazis when they abandoned it over 70 years ago. In contrast to Auschwitz there are no professional tour guides here, few informative displays and little suggestion for how to experience the space.

In 1993 Steven Spielberg used Liban as the set of all the scenes from Schindler’s List that take place in the Płaszów concentration camp. During filming 34 barracks and watchtowers were set-up around the quarry, and though most of the set was subsequently removed, some traces remain confusingly mixed with the genuine historical leftovers from the war, making it unclear just how uncomfortable you should feel as you walk amongst the rusty machinery and gallows-like fence posts - some still strung with barbed wire. Certainly, the most disturbing site is the central pathway paved with Jewish headstones; we can put you at ease by assuring you they are not genuine. An incredibly evocative, yet peaceful and beautiful site, enter the quarry at your own risk by following a trail from behind Krakus Mound toward Podgórze Cemetery, along the rim of and then down into the quarry.QM‑12, ul. Za Torem.

Approximately 150,000 prisoners were interred in this 80 hectare prison camp, and the number who perished here is actually impossible to know, but is certainly in the tens of thousands. A bit of a challenge to access, those intrepid enough to make the journey will still find a few war-era buildings, several memorials and some scattered Jewish tombstones. Since 2017 an outdoor exhibit of archival photographs with brief historical information offer visitors some clues about the camp’s layout. More a pilgrimage than a destination, Płaszów rewards those who walk its obscure paths with the opportunity to engage the past without any pressure or pretence. This is the most horrific place in Kraków; and the most peaceful. To learn about Płaszów’s history, what to see and how to get there, read our exhaustive online feature.Qiyp.me/plaszow. 49

Nowa Huta The citizens of this proletariat paradise would take meaning from their daily work contributions in the ‘Lenin Steelworks,’ of course. As with the entire city of Nowa Huta, the reasons for building a steel mill here were mostly ideological, since local demand for steel was small, coal had to be brought in from Silesia, and iron ore had to be impractically transported from the Soviet Union. Nonetheless, in its heyday the Steelworks was capable of producing seven million tonnes of steel annually, boasted the largest blast furnace in Europe, and employed some 40,000 people. As monumental as residential Nowa Huta may seem, it pales in comparison to the 1000 hectare Steelworks complex, which boasts multi-storey melting ladles and halls large enough to fit Krakow’s market square several times over. Officially called ‘ArcelorMittal Poland’ today, the Steelworks still employs about 3500, but doesn’t play the central role in the life of the district it once did. ‘Włodzimierz Lenin’ striding across Plac Centralny in the 1970s.

As intended, the colourless concrete conurbation of Nowa Huta is the direct antithesis of Kraków’s Old Town. Ornate architecture, cobbled lanes and tourist crowds? Not here. One of only two entirely pre-planned socialist realism cities ever built, this Orwellian encampment is one of the finest examples of deliberate social engineering in the world. For tourists, but also for Poles, a visit is akin to traveling back in time to the communist era in Poland. Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed up a huge swathe of agricultural land and several ancient villages in an attempt to create an in-your-face proletarian opponent to intellectual, artsy-fartsy, fairytale Kraków. Designed for 100,000 people, work began in June 1949, and over the next few years the city was constructed at breakneck speed as volunteers from across Poland flocked to take part in the bold project. Built to impress, Nowa Huta features wide, tree-lined avenues, parks, a lake and the officially sanctioned architectural style of the time - Socialist Realism. Nowa Huta’s architects strove to construct the ideal city, with ironic inspiration coming from the neighbourhood blocks built in 1920s New York (that despicable western metropolis). Careful planning was key, and the suburb was designed with ‘efficient mutual control’ in mind: wide streets would prevent the spread of fire and the profusion of trees would easily soak up a nuclear blast, while the layout was such that the city could easily be turned into a fortress if it came under attack, including enough underground bunkers to shelter the entire population.

GETTING TO NOWA HUTA Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram network. Trams 4 and 70 from ‘Teatr Słowackiego’ (near the train station, K-4) go straight to Plac Centralny (R-3) in about 20mins. 50

WHAT TO SEE Jump off a tram at the ‘Plac Centralny’ stop, and find yourself at the very nucleus of Nowa Huta. From 1973 to 1989 an enormous monument of Vladimir Lenin (pictured) towered over the citizens of Nowa Huta at the north end of Plac Centralny. Dismantling it after the fall of communism was an important act of symbolism, which turned to comic irony in 2004 when the square he stood on - and which was once named after Joseph Stalin - was officially renamed ‘Ronald Reagan Central Square.’ Speak to any local, however, and it’s ‘Plac Centralny’ a walk around which will bring you to several points of interest, including the iconic Markiza neon sign, and Cepelix folk art shop. Just south of the square is the Nowa Huta Cultural Centre - home to food trucks (some of the only eats in the area), a winter ice rink (until late February) and two truly worthwhile 20th century art exhibits focused on Zdzisław Beksiński and Jerzy Duda-Gracz - both of whom painted their own unique visions of the grotesque. From the NHCK it’s easy walking distance to the former Światowid cinema - another socialist realism stalwart that today houses the fantastic Nowa Huta Museum. Although the area around Plac Centralny serves as the district’s focal point, it’s the Steelworks that Nowa Huta is famous for, not to mention named after. Found at the end of al. Solidarności the entrance is flanked by two austere concrete buildings which represent the pinnacle of socialist realism architecture in PL. These are the former Administrative Buildings - the only part of the complex currently open to visitors. If you’re the type who loves trespassing in abandoned buildings, or alternative tourism, make the arrangements to get inside. Similarly, the Nowa Huta Underground project is now making areas of the air-raid shelters beneath the city accessible to tourists; go underground near the picturesque Nowa Huta Reservoir (U-2), or in the cellars of the Nowa Huta Museum.

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The coffered ceiling in Cepelix.

PLAC CENTRALNY (CENTRAL SQUARE) The centre of Nowa Huta’s architectural layout, Plac Centralny (Central Square) is the district’s primary landmark and one of socialist realism’s highest architectural achievements, despite never being completed. The two main structures of the square were to be the towering Town Hall (resembling a mini PKiN) at the northern end and a colonnaded theatre at the southern end, with an obelisk in between; though the designs were in place, none saw development. Similarly, the grand promenade linking them - Aleja Róż (Roses Avenue, S-1/2) - was never fully realised, and terminates after a mere four blocks, making it a fine example of your typical Stalinist ‘road to nowhere.’ While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings lining the way, you’ll find several curiosities. Don’t miss the ‘Markiza’ neon sign at the corner of os. Centrum A and al. Jana Pawła II (S-3); though the cake shop it advertised is long gone, the sign stands out as the area’s most nostalgic memento from the PRL era. Perhaps the most timeless shop in Nowa Huta is Cepelix (os. Centrum B bl.1, S-3; open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-13:00, closed Sun). Specialising in Polish folk art and design, this amazing gift shop is like none other thanks to the original 50s interior featuring long chandeliers and a white coffer ceiling covered in colourful hand-painted ceramic plates. The character of this place hasn’t changed a bit and as such it’s a great place to buy sheepskins, lacework, famous Bolesławiec pottery, and even Nowa Huta souvenirs. Nearby on Aleja Róż you’ll find a typical milk bar (bar mleczny), one of the Soviet era worker cafeterias which still thrive in the district. If you think that can’t be topped, only a few doors down Aleja Róż behold the hideously outdated interiors of the famous Stylowa Restaurant - one of the only places to eat in NH that isn’t a milk bar; once one of the most exclusive restaurants in town, this place carries on in the same spirit as the day it opened with an interior that has hardly changed over the years. In between these two throwbacks, however you’ll find Good Lood - Kraków’s best ice cream parlour - a requisite stop and well-earned reward for trekking around Nowa Huta.QR‑3. 52

ZDZISŁAW BEKSIŃSKI GALLERY One of PL’s most internationally recognised and controversial 20th century painters, Zdzisław Beksiński (1925-2005) is known for his large, almost luminous, and emotionally-charged canvases depicting grotesque figures and apocalyptic landscapes. The themes of war, ruin, decay and deformity are prevalent throughout his work, which has been described as both ‘fantastical realism’ and ‘dystopian surrealism;’ we’d call it something of a cross between H.R. Giger and Francis Bacon. One of the most worthwhile things to see in Nowa Huta, this stunning collection of 50 paintings in the Nowa Huta Cultural Centre features some of his most definitive work, perfectly presented in a dark room on black walls, where the only light is directly on the art itself. If you find yourself completely fascinated by Beksiński, his life and family are the subject of the excellent 2016 Polish film Ostatnia Rodzina (The Last Family).QR‑3, Al. Jana Pawła II 232, tel. (+48) 12 644 02 66, www.nck.krakow.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Sun 12:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/8zł; joint ticket with Duda-Gracz Gallery 15/12zł. JERZY DUDA-GRACZ GALLERY NEW Adjacent to the Beksiński Gallery inside the Nowa Huta Cultural Centre, this 210-square-metre gallery exhibits almost 100 works by Jerzy Duda-Gracz (1941-2004) one of Poland’s most important 20th century painters. A prolific artist with diverse interests and a vast ouvre, the most representative aspect of Duda-Gracz’s highly illustrative paintings is his grotesque, disfigured human caricatures. Portraying what he seems to perceive as a deeply flawed and tragic world, his work is overtly provocative, inciting a strong emotional response in the viewer, but also insightful; through his art he was a sharp critic of humanity’s intolerance, hypocrisy, laziness and consumerism, but exposed it with a certain humour. In addition to his more representative works, included in the exhibition are more subtle paintings from his cycles inspired by Chopin’s music, or the landscape of the KrakówCzęstochowa Upland.QR‑3, Al. Jana Pawła II 232, tel. (+48) 12 644 02 66, www.nck.krakow.pl. Open 11:0019:00; Sun 12:00-19:00. Admission 10/8zł; joint ticket with Beksiński Gallery 15/12zł.

Duda-Gracz Gallery

Nowa Huta

‘Nuclear Threat’ exhibit in the Nowa Huta Museum.

NOWA HUTA MUSEUM (FORMER PRL MUSEUM) Formerly the ‘PRL Museum,’ this large museum inside the former Kino Światowid - a local landmark in socialist realism architecture, completed in 1957 - is now a branch of the Museum of Kraków (hence the name change). Though still primarily occupied with the communist era, the museum is now more broadly dedicated to the life and culture of Nowa Huta both today and yesterday. The current temporary exhibit, ‘przeMieszczanie: Nowohucianin,’ concentrates on contemporary residents of Nowa Huta and their personal connections to the district. The former cinema’s vast cellars hold the intriguing exhibit ‘Nuclear Threat: Shelters of Nowa Huta’ - part of the Nowa Huta Underground project (a second branch is located at Os. Szkolnym 37, U-2). The largest of some 250 such shelters beneath NH, here you’ll learn about the very organised and intricate plan Poland had for dealing with a potential nuclear attack during the Cold War, and the role every citizen would play in such an event. If you’re from the West, it’s akin to mild culture shock. Within easy walking distance from Plac Centralny, if you’ve made the trip out to NH there’s no reason not to make a stop here. With plenty of exhibition space over three levels, it’s worth noting that a visit can easily occupy several hours.QS‑3, Os. Centrum E 1, tel. (+48) 12 446 78 21, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 10:00-17:30; closed Mon. Admission 12/9zł. ADMINISTRATIVE BUILDINGS OF THE SENDZIMIR STEELWORKS While the monumental Plac Centralny is the face Nowa Huta turns to the public, its true socialist realism glory piece is the Administrative Centre of the Steelworks - the palatial monstrosities flanking the main entrance gate to the complex. Built in 1952-55 to the design of two Janusz’s - Ballenstadt and Ingarten - these twin architectural monuments are crowned with a Renaissance comb attic and represent the most exquisite example of socialist realism in Poland. Though the rest of the massive compound of the former Lenin Steelworks is off-limits to tourists, parts of these long abandoned administrative buildings can now be toured with a guide. You’ll be amazed at the grandeur and condition of these buildings - not only are they perfectly preserved, but they look as if the workers might be back tomorrow. The route takes you

into the main lobby of one building, through offices, and massive conference rooms - where you’ll see magnificent marble staircases, enormous chandeliers, coffered ceilings and 50s decor - before heading underground into labyrinthine passageways to a secret command post filled with nuclear fallout maps, emergency communication equipment, sleeping cots and more. These subterranean passages connect the two administration buildings, both of which you get to explore during the 45-90min tour. Tours are available in English, Polish, Russian, Spanish, Italian and French, but need to be arranged in advance by phone or via online form. The guides are incredibly knowledgeable and this experience is absolutely recommended. To get there take tram 4 to the ‘Kombinat’ stop.Qul. Ujastek 1, tel. (+48) 79 160 58 79, www.fundacjanh.org. Guided tours only, 25zł per person. NOWA HUTA UNDERGROUND: STATE OF EMERGENCY There are over 250 shelters hidden beneath the streets and buildings of Nowa Huta - large enough to accommodate every single resident in the district. Built in the 1950s, these shelters were meant to protect the population in the event of an air raid, nuclear war, or other cataclysmic event precipitated by the outbreak of World War III - a very real threat during the Cold War. Though their effectiveness in a nuclear event has always been dubious, these shelters gave residents a false but comforting sense of security and also served as an effective tool for the administration in the propaganda war with the West. The Museum of Kraków is now making some of these underground shelters open to the public as part of the Nowa Huta Underground project - a branch of which is located here under the Mechanical School (another exhibit can be found under the Nowa Huta Museum; tickets are good for both). Occupying 124m2, this exhibit, titled ‘State of Emergency,’ takes a more global view of the topic by introducing some of the most interesting shelters in the world, and exploring the human instinct to hide from danger.QU‑2, Os. Szkolne 37, tel. (+48) 12 446 78 21, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 11/8zł; Tue free.

Inside the Administration Buildings of the Steelworks.

Museums

From Piotr Lutyński’s ‘Buddha, Mars & Deer’ exhibit in Bunkier Sztuki (p.55). More info on p.11.

There’s no better place to learn about Polish history, culture and character than Kraków’s museums, some of which should be on every tourist itinerary. To find out about current temporary exhibits visit our Events section (p.06) or use our app (iyp.me/app). Note that Kraków’s former synagogues - which today operate as museums - can be found in the Kazimierz section (p.34), while the extensive exhibits at Wawel can be found beginning on p.30. For a full directory of Museums, visit our website.

ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM Housed in a handsome former monastery, Kraków’s large Archaeological Museum offers several permanent exhibits covering the prehistory of Małopolska, Ancient Egyptian artefacts, Peruvian artefacts and the building’s own history. While perhaps not as rich or gripping as other museums, the modern exhibits are well-presented and there is enough to hold your interest, from intricately decorated sarcophagi and mummified cats to an amusing gallery of ‘ancestors’ - mannequins of locals through the

19TH CENTURY POLISH ART GALLERY This magnificent and historic exhibition inside the Cloth Hall covers 19th century Polish art and its major trends of portraiture and epic historical painting. Comprising just four rooms, the museum is refreshingly small, giving proper attention to each piece - some of which are enormous, and all of which are gorgeously framed. Almost everything by Jan Matejko here is rightly considered a national treasure, and the collection also includes works by Jacek Malczewski, Józef Chełmoński and Stanisław Witkiewicz, as well as Władysław Podkowiński’s famous ‘Frenzy’ from 1894. Like a small slice of the Louvre in Kraków, but without the crowds, one of the perks of a visit is access to the magnificent balcony overlooking the market square. Recommended. QI‑5, Cloth Hall, Rynek Główny 3, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 00, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 25/15zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free.

Frenzy; 19th Century Polish Art Gallery

Museums ages whose facial expressions have actually been created using techniques from forensic science. The museum’s big claim to fame is the Zbruch Idol - the only sculpture of a Slavic god in existence anywhere. Also keep an eye on their strong temporary exhibits, currently an exhibit on Pompeii (until March 8th, 29/19zł, open every day 10:0018:00). In spring and summer the museum’s beautiful garden (2zł charge if you aren’t visiting the museum) is as big a draw as the exhibits - a great place to relax with handsome views of Wawel in the distance.QI‑6, ul. Poselska 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 75 60, www.ma.krakow. pl. Open 09:00-15:00; Tue, Thu 09:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00; closed Sat. Admission 10/6zł. Sun free for permanent exhibitions. N

ART GALLERIES

ARCHDIOCESAN MUSEUM OF CARDINAL KAROL WOJTYŁA Pope John Paul II lived here, twice. Once as fledgling priest Karol Wojtyła, and later in grander, adjacent rooms as Bishop of Kraków. Today a museum, inside you’ll see everyday objects and artefacts from the Pope’s time here, as well as gifts he later received as Pope, exhibited in the very rooms he once lived in; plus lots of sacral art, and temporary exhibits. All very nice, and certainly the most accessible museum about the Pope in Kraków, but this one should probably be reserved for true papal enthusiasts. A second branch is located at the John Paul II Centre in Łagiewniki (p.57), while a third - the Wojtyła Apartment at ul. Tyniecka 10 (G-8) - shows the apartment where the future pope lived with his father in the late 1930s (open Tue, Sat, Sun only 10:00-14:00; free admission).QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 19-21, tel. (+48) 12 421 89 63, www.muzeumkra.diecezja.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł. N

Palace of the Arts

BISHOP ERAZM CIOŁEK PALACE This early 14th century palace is one of the most outstanding buildings in Kraków; in fact, at the time it was built, the palace was second in splendour to only Wawel itself. Thoroughly restored, today it is one of the most modern and impressive branches of the Kraków National Museum, housing three permanent exhibitions: Kraków Within Your Reach, Art of Old Poland from the 12th to 18th Centuries, and Orthodox Art of the Old Polish Republic. The first is a basement repository of local architectural sculpture fragments, while the latter two consist almost entirely of sacral art from before the idea of ‘art’ was applied to non-religious subject matter (how many centuries did that take?). Most of it came directly out of Kraków’s own churches or others in the region, and is admittedly superb, if that’s your thing. If not, you’ll likely still find yourself impressed by the surroundings and high-quality displays.QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 17, tel. (+48) 12 433 59 20, www.mnk. pl. Open 09:00-16:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:0016:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. U

For the best spaces for contemporary art in Poland’s cultural capital, see below, but also don’t miss Podgórze’s MOCAK (p.47), or the Zdzisław Beksiński and Duda-Gracz galleries in Nowa Huta (p.52). BUNKIER SZTUKI GALLERY OF CONTEMPORARY ART One of the few very modern buildings in the Old Town, the concrete carbuncle known as the ‘Art Bunker’ is hands-down Kraków’s best contemporary art gallery. Changing exhibitions are held over three floors, exhibition catalogues are sold in the small mezzanine bookshop and the ground floor Bunkier Cafe (p.93) offers good food and one of the city’s biggest beer terraces.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 3A, tel. (+48) 12 423 12 43, www.bunkier.art.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł. INTERNATIONAL CULTURAL CENTRE (MCK) Temporary art exhibitions spotlighting foreign visionaries, cities or cultures typically fill this major gallery on the market square. See our What’s On section for info about the current exhibit (p.09). There is also a library specialising in art and culture publications.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 25, tel. (+48) 12 424 28 11, www. mck.krakow.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission to the gallery 13/8zł. Tue, Wed between 10:00 and 11:00 admission 2zł. PALACE OF THE ARTS (PAŁAC SZTUKI) Built as the seat of the Friends of the Fine Arts Society in 1901, this gorgeous edifice was Kraków’s first Art Nouveau building. Gold bas-reliefs by Jacek Malczewski - the famed ‘Father of Polish Symbolism’ - depict the highs and lows of the creative process, busts of Poland’s most famous contributors to the arts fill niches in the facade, and the head of Apollo crowns the entrance. Today the Palace of the Arts remains one of the most prestigious exhibition spaces in town, with regularly changing exhibits of contemporary art.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 66 16, www.palacsztuki.krakow.pl. Open 10:00-18:00. Admission 15/10/5zł. N 55

Museums CZARTORYSKI PRINCES MUSEUM NEW Recently modernised and re-opened to the public, the Czartoryski Museum is Poland’s oldest museum. The noble family’s private collections were first opened to the public at the family estate in Puławy (eastern PL) in 1786, becoming Kraków’s first museum when it was moved here in 1878. One of the most valuable art collections in Europe, the Czartoryski Museum includes a bit of everything: masterpieces of European painting, sculpture, applied arts, Egyptian artefacts, Far Eastern art, Polish historical memorabilia, priceless books and documents from the Czartoryski Library, and more. Specifically, visitors will see Leonardo da Vinci’s beloved oil painting ‘Lady With an Ermine,’ Rembrandt’s prized ‘Landscape with the Good Samaritan,’ trophies from the 1683 Battle of Vienna, Chopin’s death mask, and an urn containing Copernicus’ corpse. Audioguides (10zł) add depth to the otherwise austere exhibits, and those with kids should check the drawers of the movable furniture in the magnificent foyer for hands-on displays and activity sheets. At the moment there are a very manageable 21 small rooms open over two floors, and the museum takes just over 1 hour to visit. Incredibly popular, all entrances are timed and it’s advised to buy tickets online via bilety. mnk.pl in advance.QJ‑5, ul. Pijarska 15, tel. (+48) 12 370 54 60, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 35zł/20zł, Sun free.

Ethnographic Museum

EAGLE PHARMACY See p.45.QL‑10, Pl. Bohaterów Getta 18, www. muzeumkrakowa.pl. Closed 2nd Tue of every month. ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM Founded in 1911 inside Kazimierz’s former Town Hall, this often overlooked museum offers wonderful and charming insight into Polish folk culture and rural traditions, including beautiful recreations of 19th-century peasant interiors, folk costumes and instruments, and extraordinary examples of local nativity cribs (‘szopki’). A new exhibit called ‘Od-nowa’ (Anew) focusses on rural rituals of spring in Poland (painted Easter eggs and palms), while ‘Unattainable Earth’ guides visitors through hundreds of works of folk art via the words of Czesław Miłosz (taken from his poem of the same name). With exhibits sufficiently explained in English, those that visit here will be happily rewarded. Dom Esterki - a separate gallery for changing exhibits - can also be found nearby at ul. Krakowska 46.QK‑9, Pl. Wolnica 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 60 23, www.etnomuzeum.eu. Open 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 13/7zł for permanent exhibitions, Sun free. 10/7zł for temporary exhibitions. U GALICIA JEWISH MUSEUM See p.40.QL‑8, ul. Dajwór 18, www.galiciajewishmuseum. org. U

Leonardo’s famous painting, completed moments before the weasel attack.

HOME ARMY MUSEUM This beautifully restored 3-floor red-brick railway building has been adapted (including a gorgeous glass atrium) to house the Home Army Museum - documenting the size, organisation and efforts of Poland’s underground military resistance from the time of the failed September campaign of 1939 to the underground armed forces official disbanding in 1945. The Home Army’s continuing fight for freedom within the country’s two occupied zones (Nazi and Soviet) is one of World War II’s less acknowledged aspects, and though this enormous museum goes to great length to demonstrate that Poland’s government, military and civilian population never surrendered, the sprawling exhibits are confusing and chaotically organised; as a result you may want to dish out the 150zł, plus ticket price, for a guided tour (make sure to book at least one day in advance - English, German, Italian, French, and Spanish available). Nevertheless it’s a must for those interested in

Museums WWII history, and you should reserve at least two hours for visiting.QK‑2, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 12 410 07 70, www.muzeum-ak.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 11:0018:00; closed Sat. Admission 16/8zł, Sun free. U JAN MATEJKO HOUSE Jan Matejko was Poland’s greatest historical painter whose work and life is honoured in the house where he was born, lived and would eventually die in the 1890s. As well as some witty imaginings of Kraków medieval life, studies for gargoyles, and collections of Renaissance furniture and antique guns and ammo, the minutiae of Matejko’s life is preserved, right down to his eyeglasses in this relatively small museum. A fascinating tribute to a genuine Polish master, and a man of many parts, fans of Matejko should definitely visit the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.54) where many of his greatest works are displayed.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 41, tel. (+48) 12 433 59 60, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00-16:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free for permanent exhibitions. JOHN PAUL II CENTRE Located in Łagiewniki, within convenient 5mins walking distance of the Sanctuary of Divine Mercy, the ambitious ‘Have No Fear!’ John Paul II Centre (the official name refers to his famous inauguration speech) is is a large complex devoted to the legacy and spiritual teachings of every Pole’s favourite Pope, including many facilities for pilgrims. The primary highlights for visitors are the Sanctuary of St. John Paul II - a chapel with relics of the former pope, including a vial of his blood and the blood-stained cossack he was wearing during the 1981 assassination attempt on his life (open 07:3019:00; sanktuariumjp2.pl; free (donation-based) guided tours in English available Mon-Sat at 09:00, 11:00, 13:00, 14:00 and 15:30); the John Paul II Institute - which holds a copy of the Shroud of Turin (open 08:00-16:00, closed Sat, Sun; free admission); and the Archdiocesan Museum of St. John Paul II - which displays the Pope’s personal belongings and rich collection of papal gifts received during his world travels (opening hours subject to change, check online at archimuzeum.pl; admission 10/6zł). Getting there by public transport is complicated and time consuming, so we suggest just catching a cab or Uber.Qul. Totus Tuus 32 (Łagiewniki), tel. (+48) 12 429 64 71, www.janpawel2.pl.

Hipolit House 3 Mariacki Sq Opening hours: Wednesday – Sunday 10.00 am – 5.30 pm www.muzeumkrakowa.pl John Paul II Centre

Museums JÓZEF CZAPSKI PAVILION Opened in 2016, this modern building hidden behind the Hutten-Czapski Palace is dedicated to Józef Czapski an exiled Polish painter, writer, art critic, intellectual, and grandson of Emeryk Hutten-Czapski (whose famous coin collection is on display 100m away). The small permanent exhibit is a biographical look at his life via video interviews, archival materials and the personal effects he left to the city upon his passing in 1993. Though Czapski may be completely unknown, and his artistic-literary legacy difficult to ascertain, it is his role as a witness to history that makes this museum most worthwhile. Fantastic archival footage (subtitled in English) explains the evolving geopolitical climate in Europe during Czapski’s lifetime, and shape his story into one that represents not one man, but an entire generation of Poles - the educated class that was obliterated in the fields of Katyń and fires of the Warsaw Uprising, or somehow survived only to be exiled or imprisoned by the communist regime that followed WWII. Czapski’s story also reveals the almost disgusting cyclical nature of history and politics, and the destructive folly of nationalism - a lesson as necessary today as ever. Though small, it is easy to spend hours here exploring the multimedia exhibits, or sitting in the cafe.QH‑6, ul. Piłsudskiego 12, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 40, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00-16:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sunday free for permanent exhibitions. Ticket also valid for the Hutten-Czapski Museum. JÓZEF MEHOFFER HOUSE Mehoffer was one of the turn of the 20th century’s artistic elite, a skilled stained-glass artist collaborating with Wyspiański on the interiors of numerous Kraków churches, as well as his own installations across Galicia. This, his house, was where the artists of the Młoda Polska (Young Poland) movement often met and is a delight to visit, filled with elegant furnishings, Art Deco to impressionist-era art and many sketches, designs and finished stained glass pieces that attest to his important artistic legacy. In warmer months you won’t find a more magical place to relax and read a book than the hidden garden behind the house, presided over by Meho Cafe - one of the city’s best-kept secrets.QH‑5, ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 80, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00-16:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. LIPOWA 3 GLASS & CERAMICS CENTRE See p.46.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 3, www.lipowa3.pl. MANGGHA Located across the river from Wawel in Dębniki, The Manggha Museum of Japanese Art & Technology (to use its full name) has many hats - including performance hall, Japanese cultural centre, sushi bar and museum promoting the cultural links between Poland and Japan. 58

The exhibits not only bring Japanese culture to a Polish audience, but also highlight the cultural influence that Japan had on Polish artists in the 19th century, particularly Leon Wyczółkowski, Julian Fałat, Anna Bilińska and Feliks Jasieński. Funded by legendary Polish film director Andrzej Wajda, the exceedingly modern building was opened in 1994, then expanded in 2015 with the adjacent European - Far East Gallery, which hosts several temporary exhibits at any given time (check their website for specifics).QH‑8, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267 27 03, www. manggha.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 30/20zł, kids 7-16 1zł, kids under 7 free, Tue free. MICET (INTERACTIVE THEATRE MUSEUM) This new name-challenged museum in the basements of the Stary Teatr (Old Theatre) presents the theatre’s achievements through a digital archive, pays homage to theatre as a Polish cultural institution, and allows visitors to experience some of the technical aspects of theatrical production. Certainly the most high tech museum in Kraków, the whole experience is conducted through interactive apps, touch-screen displays, tablets and other digital exhibits. Your interest in the museum will depend entirely on your willingness to participate in its techsavvy displays, and your visit necessarily begins with a guide showing you around and explaining how to interact with the exhibits. Using apps at various stations you can compose your own music for a production, change the lighting, sound and music on a stage, or explore a ‘virtual dressing room’ that acquaints you with iconic stage costumes. Perhaps the most challenging is a private room where you’re encouraged to record a video of yourself taking on a role, which you can then email to yourself. Impressively designed and entirely in English, quite a lot of money was spent on this, from the tablets and Beats headphones to the loads of programming, and a technician is actually on-hand to keep it working smoothly. White, minimal and devoid of objects, it’s all quite soulless considering the subject, and certainly not to all tastes (we saw several couples walk in, get the tour, and then walk right out). But we know of nothing comparable, and for aspiring actors, technicians, set and costume designers and general lovers of theatre, we can’t really imagine anything better.QI‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 75 12, www.micet.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł. U MICET Theatre Museum

Museums MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART (MOCAK) See p.47.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 4, www.mocak.pl. U NATIONAL MUSEUM, MAIN BUILDING The National Museum has 11 branches in Kraków, with this monolithic structure - apparently built over the course of half a century from 1935 to 1989 - being the main administrative branch and landing spot for the institution’s most ambitious exhibits. Permanent exhibits include the Gallery of Weaponry & Uniforms and Gallery of Decorative Arts, but it’s the consistently excellent temporary exhibits that should really lure you here. One of Kraków’s largest museums, you’d be wise to focus on what you’re most interested in; to see it all would take the entire day. Outside a large monument of Stanisław Wyspiański one of the most important artists of the turn of the 20th century - stands over a public square; inside you’ll find a small shop and cafe.QG‑6, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, www.mnk.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 09:0018:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission to all permanent exhibits 15/10zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Admission to 1st temporary exhibit 25/15zł (includes entry to permanent exhibits); 2nd temporary exhibit 15/10zł. Admission to all exhibits 50/30zł. U

miracle of light M E D I E VA L . . S TA I N E D . . G L A S S . . I N . . P O L A N D EXHIBITION

THE..NATIONAL..MUSEUM..IN..KRAKOW MAIN..BUILDING

AL.3.MAJA1../..MNK.PL

piotr lutyński buddha, mars and deer

National Museum

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM If you’ve visited Natural History Museums in London or New York...well, this is Kraków. This small and modestlyfunded (to put it nicely) museum features permanent exhibits on local rocks, minerals, molluscs and fauna that will literally put anyone to sleep. That said, it also plays host to temporary exhibits which generally take up the most space and justify the admission price (currently ‘In the Colourful World of Butterflies’ and ‘Alpine Fauna’), there are some reptiles (who doesn’t love reptiles?), a 14,000-yearold mammoth skull and the pride of the collection is the world’s only fully preserved (like with skin and stuff ) woolly rhinoceros. You won’t see that anywhere else, and overall younger kids might find this museum more exciting than any others in Kraków.QJ‑7, ul. Św. Sebastiana 9, tel. (+48) 12 422 59 59, www.isez.pan. krakow.pl. Open 09:00-15:00; Sat 12:00-18:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 20/16zł.

8.2–15.3.2020

bunkier sztuki gallery of contemporary art pl. szczepański 3a, kraków, bunkier.art.pl Piotr Lutyński, Buddha; Electron, 2019

Museums excellent series of short documentaries covering different ages of Krakow’s history at the end of the tour route. In addition to the multilingual displays, audio guides are available in English, German, French, Russian, Italian and Spanish.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 10:00-20:00; Tue 10:0016:00. Closed 2nd Mon of each month. Last entrance 75mins before closing. Admission 24/20 zł; Tue free. Audioguide 5zł. SCHINDLER’S FACTORY See p.47.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 4, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Pharmacy Museum

PHARMACY MUSEUM Located inside a wonderful 15th-century building, Kraków’s brilliant Pharmacy Museum is laid out over five floors and includes all manner of exhibits from full-scale reproductions of ancient apothecary shops to some beastly snakes in jars and, on the top floor, a really good display of traditional herbal medicines. Also of note is an exhibit dedicated to the extraordinary and brave Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz, who operated a pharmacy in the Kraków Ghetto during WWII. Overall, this surprising museum is a lot more interesting than it sounds.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 25, tel. (+48) 12 421 92 79, www.muzeum.farmacja.uj.edu. pl. Open 09:30-15:00; Tue 12:00-18:30; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 14/8zł. RYNEK UNDERGROUND This hi-tech and highly popular museum takes visitors four metres under the surface of the market square to explore the medieval merchant stalls that predate today’s Cloth Hall, and experience the city’s entire history - from its first settlers right up today - over the course of 6,000 metres of multimedia exhibits. Because of the museum’s popularity, timed tickets should be bought in advance. This can be done either online or from the information office confusingly located on the opposite side of the Cloth Hall from the museum entrance. The actual museum entrance is located opposite St. Mary’s Basilica, of course, and once you’re inside your experience begins with a short film projected on a wall of smoke, before following the trail of truly remarkable exhibits displayed in what is essentially an archaeological site. Relying heavily on touch-screens and holograms, highlights include a fascinating look into life before Kraków’s market square was laid out, displays on city trade and transport, a fantastic area for kids that includes a performance by automated puppets, and the remains of an 11th-century cemetery replete with ‘vampire prevention burials’ (seriously). Visitors should also reserve time to view the

RYNEK UNDERGROUND TOURS & TICKETS link bit.ly/RynekTour 60

STAINED GLASS MUSEUM Located in S.G. Żeleński’s historic stained glass studio, this ‘living museum’ offers the truly unique opportunity of visiting an active stained glass workshop, where you’ll witness masters at work, learn the artistic process involved in producing large-scale glass installations, and see some superb designs and finished works from throughout the over hundred-year history of the studio. Known as the ‘cradle of Polish stained glass art,’ Żeleński opened this studio in 1902 as a place for the best artists of the Art Nouveau era to meet and work, including such luminaries as Wyspiański and Mehoffer. Many of PL’s most outstanding examples of stained glass were created here, and today the studio remains the largest of its kind in the country. Visiting is only possible with a guide and the approximately 45-min tour is offered hourly in Polish (at :30 past the hour) and English (on the hour). Inside you’ll see a copy of Wyspiański’s famous Apollo window, created in the studio in 2018, as well as another Wyspiański design - Polonia - which is currently in progress. The museum also offers stained glass workshops, which can also be arranged in Polish, English, German or French. There is also a cafe on-site, and a gift shop where you can pick up beautiful stained glass pieces created on-site. Absolutely worth a visit for fans of the medium, as well as Art Nouveau enthusiasts.QG‑6, Al. Krasińskiego 23, tel. (+48) 512 93 79 79, www.stainedglass.pl. Open 11:30-18:00; closed Mon, Sun. Guided tours 37/31zł per person in English; 30/25zł in Polish.

Inside the workshop of the Stained Glass Museum

Museums ULICA POMORSKA & FORMER GESTAPO CELLS Consisting of two separate exhibits, Ulica Pomorska offers the most chilling museum experience in Kraków (which is saying something). Located in the Dom Śląski, or ‘Silesian House,’ this infamous building became the Kraków headquarters of the Gestapo during WWII, who converted its cellars into detention cells for the interrogation and torture of political prisoners. These cells have been preserved and are free and open to the public as the ‘Former Gestapo Cells’ - immediately to your right as you enter the courtyard. Though the attendant will encourage you to enter straight away, we recommend you begin with the building’s main exhibit ‘People of Krakow in Times of Terror 1939-1945-1956,’ entered via a staircase in the corner of the courtyard. This ambitious and excellent exhibit takes visitors chronologically through the city’s not-so-distant past, illustrating the terror and tyranny of both the Nazi and Stalinist regimes in Kraków through an abundance of documents, photographs, audio recordings and other archival materials. From the first victims executed by the Nazis to the communist show trials of the mid50s, the stories of individual citizens and their varying experiences and reactions to both regimes is revealed in vivid and sometimes distressing detail.

While the broad, more traditional museum presentation of this history is affecting enough, the immediacy of the Gestapo cells is truly haunting. An unimaginable 600 inscriptions scratched into the walls by prisoners awaiting their fate remain intact and provide a shocking, sobering and undeniable account of the suffering of hundreds of Cracovians during Nazi occupation. As you might expect, there are no fairy-tale endings here, so prepare yourself for the blunt force trauma of human tragedy. A worthwhile and memorable experience, reserve at least 90 minutes for visiting. Ulica Pomorska is a 20min walk from the market square, near the tram stop ‘Plac Inwalidów.’QG‑3, ul. Pomorska 2, tel. (+48) 12 633 14 14, www.muzeumkrakowa.pl. Open 10:00-17:30; closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł, Tue free. Admission to Former Gestapo Cells is free.

KOŚCIUSZKO MOUND

History produces few men like Tadeusz Kościuszko (1746-1817). Having fought with distinction in the American War of Independence before inspiring the valiant Kościuszko Insurrection against foreign rule in Poland, this relentless freedom-fighter was described by Thomas Jefferson as ‘the purest son of liberty that I have ever known.’ Upon his passing, such was the people’s love that they proposed to honour him with a monument in the tradition of the prehistoric mound of King Krak (p.48), but on a grander scale. Artefacts from Kościuszko’s life were placed atop the chosen site, Bronisława Hill in Zwierzyniec, before friends, statesmen and foreign dignitaries gave speeches and dumped the first wheelbarrows of dirt. For the next three years people of all ages brought soil from their villages to add to the mound. Though a committee was formed for its oversight, the work was all done voluntarily. Officially completed in 1823, Kościuszko Mound today stands 34m high, 326m above sea level, and on a clear day the Tatra Mountains can be seen from the top. In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities built a brick fortress around the Mound, which they used as a strategic lookout point. The Germans later threatened to level the entire site during WWII as they set about destroying all Polish national symbols. The complex has since been restored, with significant engineering improvements made to ensure its longevity. Climbing to the peak is tiring work, but the panoramic views are a worthwhile reward. The surrounding fortifications also house several small historical exhibits (included in admission to the Mound, though most are currently closed), a chapel (closed for renovation), two cafes, a radio station, and restaurant. To get there take trams 1 or 70 to ‘Salwator,’ from which it’s a lovely 1.6km walk up ul. Św Bronisława. It’s all uphill though, so if you’re awaiting a hip replacement you might want to take bus 100 from there to the top instead; another option is bus 101 from ‘Rondo Grunwaldzkie.’ A cab from the Old Town to Kościuszko Mound is about 30zł.QA‑7, Al. Waszyngtona 1, tel. (+48) 12 425 11 16, www.kopieckosciuszki.pl. Open 09:00 until roughly sunset; check online for exact hours. Admission 14/10zł. 61

Activities & Experiences If you’re looking for a more alternative way to see and experience Kraków, or simply enjoy letting ‘the pros’ organise your time, check out the local activities below. More online at iyp.me/polandshop

WOW KRAKOW! HOP ON/OFF BUS See it all at your own pace by hopping on and off this guided bus tour as it zips between 12 essential sites. The bus runs 09:30-17:10, appearing at each stop every 30mins, and includes a trip down the river via gondola (from March 11). Tickets (80/55/35zł, kids under 3 free) are available online or from the driver, and also include free entry to 2 museums. Another option is the ‘Glass Baubles’ experience, which takes you to a factory outside Kraków to see how blown-glass decorations are made and participate in workshops (tickets 150zł).QK‑4, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 601 50 21 29, www.wowkrakow.pl.

ICE PARK Kraków’s best open-air ice rink will be open until at least late February inside Jordan Park, with a main 1200m2 frozen patch, a separate 400m2 space for little ones, and the super-sweet ‘ice alley’ - a 360m iced trail that leaves the rink and weaves through the park before reconnecting to the main flow. There’s also a cloakroom and cafe for those in need of a warm-up.QF‑6, Jordan Park, entrance from Al. 3-Maja 11A, tel. (+48) 697 00 83 40, www.ice-park.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 09:0022:00. Admission 15/13zł for 75mins ice time (each additional 15mins 2zł); family ticket 44zł. Skate rental 10zł.

OBSERVATION BALLOON For thrilling panoramic views, take a lift in this massive balloon tethered to the riverbank in front of Forum Przestrzenie. Rising 150 metres, the platform holds up to 30 people at a time, all of whom have about 10mins to snap some photos from what’s undeniably the best viewpoint in Kraków. Operational year-round, whether it’s flying or not depends on the weather, so check their website or call first.QI‑10, Bulwar Wołyński, tel. (+48) 500 35 05 05, www.balonwidokowy.pl. Open from about 10:00 until 1hr after dusk, depending on interest. Tickets Mon-Fri 55/43zł, kids 39zł; Sat-Sun 69zł, kids 49zł. 62

venture! d a n w o r u o y Choose

Poland In Your Pocket Shop

iyp.me/polandshop OJCÓW SLEIGH RIDES WITH ECOTRAVEL Organising sleigh rides through the gorgeous Ojców National Park (p.69), 24km from Kraków. Included in the price are torches, a bonfire with sausages and hot wine/tea (you can bring along your own vodka). They can tailor a tour to your requirements, taking in, for example, the Kazimierz Castle ruins. Rides take approximately one hour, prices depend on the number in your party, and excursions are actually available year-round - they just switch skates for wheels if there’s no snow. English speaking staff is available, so give them a call or email ola@ecotravel.pl to make arrangements.Qtel. (+48) 12 681 36 92, www.ecotravel.pl.

LOST SOULS ALLEY Visitors to this horrifying haunted house must choose a ‘pain level’, then work together through 12 rooms (in most of which you must find a key to escape) of a ramshackle apartment full of blood-spattered beds, hacked-off limbs, moaning creepers and reaching hands, some armed with stun guns (if you choose maximum pain). Getting through to the end takes about 2535mins, and you must be at least 14 years old. The best way to arrange a visit is to reserve online or call in advance...if you dare.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 6, tel. (+48) 666 98 60 69, www. lostsoulsalley.com. Open 12:00-21:00. 35/30zł per person.

CARRIAGE RIDES Lined up along the market square, horse-drawn carriage rides are a popular (for some controversial) way to see Kraków. Available every day - rain, snow or shine - from about 10:0022:00, routes and prices are individually determined with the driver, but a typical route from the Rynek to Wawel Hill is generally 200-250zł (about 30mins); 500zł if you carry on to Kazimierz. Unfortunately the drivers don’t disseminate any information about what you’re seeing along the way (you’ve got a guidebook for that). Still, it’s many a lady’s dream to be lifted into one of these things, so be prepared. 63

Kids & Families

“We run this city, kid.”

Most visitors fall in love with Kraków, but one complaint we sometimes hear is that it isn’t the most family-friendly tourist destination. Pushing a pram down narrow, crowded sidewalks and cobbled streets is a drag, you can’t count on your kids to care or keep quiet in churches, memorial sites and museums, and the city’s famous nightlife is basically off limits. There must be something else to do in this town, right? Rest assured, there is. We’ve created this section to identify exactly those things, offer some friendly advice, and help the whole family have a great time together in Kraków. Some venues are described in more detail elsewhere, so follow the references.

HELPFUL HINTS & IDEAS Of course the first step to having a great family vacation abroad is to accept that what you want to do, and what your kids want to do aren’t likely to be one and the same. That said, there’s no reason you can’t find some common ground among Kraków’s major attractions. Everyone has Wawel (p.30) on their list, and all it takes is one too-hasty purchase at the ticket window to over-do it. While most of the exhibits will prove too lengthy and tedious for young attention spans, you can still say you saw it with a stroll around the interior courtyards (for free, no less). Wawel Cathedral is also free, but the most interesting aspect for kids, of course, will be the ‘dragon bones’ outside the entrance (p.33). 64

Sometimes the best thing to do when there are easilytired kids involved and you want to see as much as possible is to sign on for a guided tour; you’ll find some options in Activities & Experiences on the previous pages. Though you won’t learn much, a horse-drawn carriage ride (p.63) is irresistible to kids (and wives), and will send you home with some photos of your dashing fam sightseeing in style. Or for a thrill, fly above the city in the Observation Balloon - which is not nearly as nerve-wracking as it looks (p.62) Those it’s awfully cold for playgrounds, note that these are clearly marked on the maps throughout our guide . There are several in the centre, of which Park Krakowski (G-4) reigns supreme, followed by Park Jordana (F-5) which is also home to PL’s biggest ice rink (p.62). All of Kraków’s ice rinks are also marked on our maps . When it comes to culture, Kraków is home to scores of museums, which will have varying degrees of interest for kids. The Natural History Museum (p.59) will interest younger kids, while older kids rank Rynek Underground (p.60) as a favourite thanks to its modern, multimedia displays. In winter the Barbican (p.20) also becomes a family attraction, illuminating some of Kraków’s legends after the sun goes down.

For more ideas go to iyp.me/krakowkids

Kids & Families CIUCIU CUKIER ARTIST Touting themselves as the ‘world’s smallest candy factory,’ this shop is indeed pint-sized and completely charming. Ciuciu specialises in personalised hard candies and bonbons, adding your small logo, inscription or pattern to the flavour and colours of your choice; versatility is limited, but this is a pretty great gift idea, or choose from the dozens of candies they already have prepared. Demonstrations are given every hour on the hour from 11:00-18:00, after which you can make your own lollipops and candy during their 15zł workshops. Great fun for kids, who can participate in making candy or just gobble up the free samples they have.QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 698 52 15 42, www.ciuciukrakow.pl. Open 10:0019:00. GOKIDZ! Directly next door to GOjump trampoline park is this huge adventure park for kids aged 1 to 18. At 2000 square metres, GOkids! is more expansive and much more involved than other indoor playgrounds; here kids don’t just have access to climbing castles and ball pits, they become cosmic heroes on a mission to defeat the evil Emperor Scrag by completing activities at various play stations; each child gets an electronic wristband upon entry which they use to activate multimedia stations, earn points, develop their ‘superpowers’ and win prizes. For kids under 4, there’s a separate, equally awesome play area where parents can join them; otherwise parents are relegated to observing the fun from the cafe area. Suffice it to say, there are few more fun places for kids in Kraków. Qul. Rzemieślnicza 20G, tel. (+48) 578 20 20 05, www.gokidz.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 09:0021:00. 2hr tickets 29-44zł depending on day and whether you buy online (cheaper) or not; unlimited play tickets 44-54zł; parents free. Kids over 4 can get a combined ticket for GOkidz! (2hrs) and GOjump (1hr) for 50/55zł.

Come see how our sweets are made. Every hour from 11 a.m. till 6 p.m. The Smallest Candy Manufacturer in the World tel. +48 698 521 542 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. ciuciukrakow@gmail.com www.ciuciukrakow.pl Zakopane, 11 Krupówki St. Kraków, 38 Grodzka St.

GOkidz!

Kids & Families rink is in the same building, so you can get some exercise too. Get there in 25mins via tram 14 from ‘Teatr Słowackiego’ to ‘Centralna.’Qul. Centralna 41A, tel. (+48) 509 03 18 98. Open 12:00-20:00; Thu, Fri 12:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-20:00; closed Tue. Admission 30zł/hr, students 20zł/hr, kids 17 and under 10zł/hr, 40/30/20zł for no limit.

Klockoland

KLOCKOLAND In the very centre of the Old Town, this family attraction is for anyone, young and old, who loves LEGO and/or robots. Klockoland offers three play zones, the first and foremost of which features 70 stations with robots made from various LEGO that you can control via buttons, pads and tablets; steer vehicles through obstacles, play football or sumo wrestle with LEGO robots. There’s also a play zone where you are free to build out of LEGO Duplo, Classic and Technic bricks, and a workshop zone where you can make your own robots out of LEGO Wedo (for kids 4+) and Mindstorm (kids 8+). Great fun, and even a challenge for adults, but it’s super popular; the earlier you get there, the less hectic it is. It’s wise to reserve tickets through their website.QJ‑5, ul. Mikołajska 13, tel. (+48) 667 89 93 17, www.klockoland. eu. Open 10:00-16:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 27zł per person, kids under 4 free. KRAKOW ARCADE MUSEUM Although there is a small exhibit on the evolution of video games (including some great archival photos of the Polish arcades of yesteryear), ‘museum’ is a bit of a misnomer for what’s really a working arcade with over 100 vintage video games from the 1980s and 90s, including pinball machines, shooting games, driving games and plenty of popular classics like Street Fighter, Pac Man, Space Invaders, Tekken, NBA Jam and Mortal Kombat. No quarters or tokens necessary, 30zł gets you unlimited play. Although it’s located in a warehouse in the no-man’s-land of Czyżyny, note that the Przewrotki roller

Arcade Museum

KRAKÓW WATER PARK This huge indoor pool complex includes 800m of water slides, dragon and pirate play areas, massage fountains, climbing walls and other in-water activities, and is probably the thing your kid will remember most about Kraków. You might not have such a bad time yourself with access to jacuzzis, saunas (2zł/min) and a pool-side cafe from which you can watch your little terrors dunk each other. Prices are 46/42zł for 2hrs and 66/52zł for day access (sauna not included), and go up on weekends when this place is so packed that in our opinion it’s best avoided.QL‑1, ul. Dobrego Pasterza 126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 91, www. parkwodny.pl. Open 08:00-22:00. KRAKÓW ZOO First opened in 1929, Kraków’s Zoo offers visitors the chance to see 1500 animals from about 270 species, while still remaining very manageable in size at only 20 hectares. Most of the exhibits are outdoors in the natural setting of Wolski Forest and there’s surprisingly little to get depressed about. Highlights include the Siberian tigers, giraffes, elephants, sea lions, penguins, otters, mandrills, and a surprisingly impressive array of brightly-plumed pheasants (our favourite). If the weather is nice and you time it well you can catch exciting feeding demonstrations of the elephants, penguins and sea lions (the best) - ask for the times at the ticket window. There’s also a petting zoo (open 09:30-15:00) and some unavoidable snack bars. Bus 134 leaves every 30mins from ‘Cracovia Stadion’ (ul. Józefa Kałuży, G-6) and drops you off at the entrance.Qul. Kasy Oszczędności Miasta Krakowa 14, tel. (+48) 12 425 35 51, www.zoo-krakow.pl. Open 09:00-15:00. From March open 09:00-16:00. Last entrance 1-hour before closing. Admission 15/8zł.

WHERE TO EAT WITH KIDS When it’s time to eat, look for the Child-friendly symbol T at the end of venue listings to see which establishments claim to have things like high chairs and play corners. Near Schindler’s Factory, Orzo (p.96) organises activities for kids on weekends from 13:00-18:00, and though there’s a distinct cocktail hour vibe inside, kids have their own menu and play area and generally seem to like the place; Bal (p.85) is also nearby and has a kid’s corner. Lastly, it’s hard to beat Pod Wawelem (p.103) - an enormous beer hall near Wawel Castle with plenty of tables, large portions of cheap Polish food your kids will eat, live music in the evenings, and a huge indoor rumpus room that will keep your kids happily occupied while you clink steins with your partner.

Pieskowa Skała Castle and the famous ‘Hercules Club’ in Ojców National Park.

Kraków Day Trips As if there weren’t enough to explore in Kraków itself, the surrounding region offers an astonishing number of fantastic sites worth exploring. 68

Day Trips Małopolska - the voivodeship of which Kraków is capital - is home to as many as 11 UNESCO World Heritage sites (depending how you count them) and 6 national parks alone. Wieliczka Salt Mine (p.70) is a must on most people's sightseeing lists, the question of whether to visit Auschwitz (p.74) always looms large, Małopolska's second city, Tarnów (p.76), has earned its own full IYP guide, and this year the 100th anniversary of Pope John Paul II’s birth is being celebrated in Wadowice (p.72). If you have more time, consider visiting some of the many wonderful places in the surrounding countryside.

OJCÓW NATIONAL PARK

While there’s seemingly no end to the architectural majesty and charm of a city like Kraków, the outstanding natural beauty of the landscape surrounding Poland’s ancient capital should not be overlooked by visitors. Due to its close proximity only 24km away, Ojców National Park (Ojcowski Park Narodowy) is one of the easiest day-trips to make from Kraków, and certainly one of the most rewarding. Despite being the smallest of Poland’s national parks at only 21.5 square kilometres, Ojców ranks with the best of them. The landscape is characterised by thick woodlands, deep ravines, limestone cliffs and incredible standing stone formations, the most iconic of which is Hercules’ Club. Ojców is also home to 400 registered caves. But it isn’t only natural monuments that make the area unique; two castles can be found in the park, both of which are open on winter weekends: Kazimierz Castle, today largely a ruin, and Pieskowa Skała, one of the most glorious examples of Renaissance residential architecture in PL. The park’s attractions are all connected via hiking, biking and horseback trails, and, thanks to its small size, can be easily visited in a day. For more info visit iyp.me/ojcow. If you don’t have a car, buses from Kraków to Ojców run often; use e-podroznik.pl to find connections. Numerous companies also organise tours and transport to Ojców, including EcoTravel, who offer winter sleigh rides when conditions are right (see p.63).

ZAKOPANE & THE TATRA MOUNTAINS

Kraków is conveniently located only 100km north of the Tatra Mountains, which comprise the southern border between Poland and Slovakia, and feature Poland’s tallest peaks (the highest of which is Rysy, at 2,499 metres), a multitude of caves, verdant valleys, crystal-clear mountain lakes, rustic mountain huts and over 270km of hiking trails within Tatra National Park proper. The gateway to this landscape for most visitors is Zakopane, a small sheep-herding village at the foothills of the High Tatras which quickly developed into a popular mountain resort in the late 19th/early 20th century. Today the town is more popular than ever, not only for its clean air, beautiful views, thermal spas, skiing and mountaineering opportunities, but also as the centre of Polish highlander culture, with its vibrant folk music and costumes, unique wooden architecture, delicious regional cuisine (including the famous oscypek, p.80) and strange mountain dialect of the Polish language. For better or worse (the latter if you ask us), ul. Krupówki - Zakopane’s high street - has become a major tourist destination for food, shopping, nightlife and entertainment, and the town has been dubbed PL’s ‘holiday capital’ due to the influx of tourists it sees nearly year-round, but particularly in the winter (for skiing) and summer (for hiking). Buses to Zakopane depart from Kraków frequently, with the slow journey taking over 2 hours; check e-podroznik.pl for connections. Numerous Kraków tour operators organise trips to Zakopane and the mountains, but note that each of these action-packed excursions occupies 8-12 hours.

BOOK A TRIP

link bit.ly/OjcowTours

link bit.ly/ZakopaneTours 69

Wadowice

Wadowice’s Minor Basilica alongside the JPII Family House Museum (centre).

GETTING TO WADOWICE Getting to Wadowice is best done by car or bus. Approximately 50km to the southwest on the way to Bielsko-Biała, the journey takes about 60mins by car and there is free parking less than 500m away from the main square on ul. Sienkiewicza. If you have your own vehicle, you should highly consider taking the route through Kalwaria Zebrzydowska - another fascinating Catholic pilgrimage site, which is registered on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Together, Kalwaria and Wadowice make the perfect day trip from Kraków. Buses to Wadowice leave frequently (every 15mins on average) from Kraków’s main bus station with a journey time of about 80mins. Connections can be checked via e-podroznik.pl or busy-krk.pl/ wadowice-krakow, and tickets can be bought from the driver for about 10zł. The bus station in Wadowice is only about 10mins on foot (700m) from Plac Jana Pawła II and the museum. To save yourself some trouble, there are numerous Kraków-based companies that offers tours and transport to Wadowice, some of which also include other popular pilgrimage sites in the area such as Kalwaria Zebrzydowska and Częstochowa. 70

Despite being a typically charming small Polish town with a historical centre organised around a main square and church, Wadowice - with its population of less than 20,000 - would be decidedly unremarkable were it not for the simple fact that it was here on May 18, 1920 that Karol Wojtyła - the future Pope John Paul II - was born. If you know your maths, that was precisely 100 years ago, making 2020 a bit of a banner year for Wadowice. This otherwise sleepy Małopolska municipality has turned into a major place of pilgrimage, and today boasts a state-of-the-art museum dedicated to the former Pope, which makes the easy 50km trip from Kraków well worth considering for Catholics and papal enthusiasts.

WHAT TO SEE Wadowice’s main points of interest can all be easily seen in an afternoon and revolve around the town’s small central square - now appropriately named 'Plac Jana Pawła II' (John Paul II Square). The main attraction is John Paul II's Family House - a modern, multimedia museum which immerses visitors in the great man's life and accomplishments in the very building he grew up in. Next door on Wadowice's main square stands the Virgin Mary's Offertory Minor Basilica, a rather splendid 15th century structure renovated in the 18th and the site of Karol Wojtyła's baptism on June 20, 1920. Outside the church is a large monument to the man, while inside you'll find a chapel dedicated to him, as well as another likeness in the form of a rather bizarre-looking wooden statue.

Wadowice JOHN PAUL II FAMILY HOME MUSEUM Located right on the corner of Wadowice’s main square, it was in this townhouse that the Wojtyła family lived in a small apartment from 1919 to 1938. Before going on to help change the course of the modern world, our hero was born in this very building on May 18, 1920. Karol’s mother sadly died from heart and kidney failure in 1929 when Karol was nine years old, and three years later his older brother Edmund perished from scarlet fever. Upon graduating from high school here in Wadowice, Karol and his father moved to Kraków in 1938, where Karol enrolled in Jagiellonian University shortly before the outbreak of World War II. The rest, as they say, is history, and you’ll learn it in vivid detail inside this world-class museum. Formerly housing a modest exhibition of only 200m2, the John Paul II Family Home was closed for renovations in 2010, while the entire building was adapted for a modern multimedia exhibition under the oversight of Barbara and Jarosław Kłaputom - the same designers of the capital’s acclaimed Warsaw Uprising Museum. Reopened in 2014, museum now comprises 16 separate zones over four floors (including the attic and basement) and a total floor space of 1200m2. Telling the linear story of Karol Wojtyła’s life, from his birth to his ascension to the papacy to his passing, the museum’s exhibits are enhanced with holograms, projections, lasers, video walls, touchscreens, tablets, audio recordings of the Holy Father’s speeches, and other modern means of conveyance that engage visitors of all ages, including those with disabilities or impairments. Despite all the technical flair elsewhere, at the heart of the museum is the Wojtyła family’s original flat, modestly consisting of a bedroom, living room and kitchen, and designed to look as it would have when the family still occupied it. Furnished with period decor, the rooms include many original family items including photographs from the family album. As visitors travel through the exhibits with young Karol they experience his grief over the passing of both his mother and brother, his love of the mountains and the nearby Kalwaria Zebrzydowska pilgrimage park (today a UNESCO World Heritage site), his student life in Kraków, the hardships of Nazi occupation, and his eventual calling to the priesthood. The Wojtyła family’s original flat.

Karol’s years as priest, bishop and cardinal culminate in his unlikely election in 1978 as the first non-Italian Pope in 455 years, from which many original objects are present, including his first papal cossack. Another important item is the pistol used in the failed 1981 assasination attempt on John Paul II’s life. As an ardent traveller, there is memorabilia from the Pope’s pilgrimages all over the world, particularly his numerous inspiring and influential visits to his Polish homeland. The museum tour eventually concludes in the basement where darkened rooms softly beating with the rhythm of the heart lead visitors into the final hall full of white diffused light symbolising the Pope’s communion with the saints. All told, it’s an incredible experience, and of all the Pope museums - of which there are several in Kraków alone - this is the one most worth visiting. As such it has become one of the most popular museums in Małopolska, visited by about 250,000 people from around the world annually. Visiting the John Paul II Family House Museum is done with a guide only, and it's recommended that you book in advance. The tour is conducted at specific times in groups of up to 25 people and lasts about 70mins. The building also includes a shop full of papal paraphernalia, which is a bit of a cottage industry in these parts (open 10:00-16:00). Qul. Kościelna 7, Wadowice, tel. (+48) 33 823 35 65, www.domjp2.pl. Open 09:00-14:40 (last entry); closed last Tue of every month. Regular foreign language tour times for Feb & March: English 11:00, 14:00; French 13:20; Spanish 14:20. Tours in English, German, French, Spanish, Italian, Portuguese, Russian and Ukrainian can be arranged for any time by calling in advance or via booking@domjp2.pl. Tickets for Polish tours 23/18zł; other languages 35/28zł; Tues free. U

BOOK TICKETS link bilety.domjp2.pl 71

Wieliczka

The Chapel of St. Kinga is Wieliczka Salt Mine’s crown jewel. | Alana de Haan, alanacdehaan.com

Kraków is without a doubt one of the most popular tourist cities in Central Europe, and as you’ve likely heard, one of its top tourist attractions is a salt mine actually located in Wieliczka - a small town about 15km to the southeast. An astounding 1.5 million people visit Wieliczka Salt Mine each year, and it’s hardly a recent phenomenon - people have been visiting the salt mine for literally centuries with notable guests including Nicolaus Copernicus, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Fryderyk Chopin, Pope John Paul II and former US prez Bill Clinton. But it’s not only tourists who come to visit. So deep is the local love for this place that in a city survey, Cracovians voted Wieliczka Salt Mine as their number one favourite thing about Kraków; again, not bad for an attraction in another town 15 km away.

GETTING TO WIELICZKA Getting to Wieliczka is a cinch with the E4 road east out of Kraków leading straight to the Wieliczka exit in about 15mins. Trains leave from Kraków Główny train station about once an hour, with buses running the same route inbetween train times; check malopolskiekoleje.pl for the exact schedule. Journey time is 25-45mins depending on which you choose; tickets cost 4zł and can be bought on board. Both drop you off at ‘Wieliczka Rynek Kopalnia,’ from which it’s a short walk to either the Daniłowicza Shaft (Tourist Route) or Regis Shaft (Miners’ Route) where tours begin.Qwww.malopolskiekoleje.pl. 72

One of the most famous attractions in all of Poland, Wieliczka Salt Mine has the distinction of having been included (along with Kraków’s Old Town and Kazimierz districts) on UNESCO’s first-ever World Heritage List back in 1978 (you know, back when being a World Heritage site actually meant something). Needless to say, if you’re visiting Kraków for more than a few days, you should consider a day trip out to Wieliczka. Though tourist agencies will try to convince you otherwise, bear in mind that a trip to Wieliczka does occupy the better part of a day.

WHAT TO SEE Visiting Wieliczka’s underground realm can be done in a number of ways. Most popular is the traditional ‘Tourist Route,’ which leaves from the Daniłowicza Shaft and covers the most impressive parts of the mine, including ancient mining tools and technology, saline lakes, and numerous majestic chambers and chapels, particularly St. Kinga’s Chapel. An alternative option is the more interactive ‘Miners’ Route,’ which leaves from the Regis Shaft and involves participants being assigned a role by the foreman/ tour guide and experiencing the daily routines, rituals and secrets of working underground. As one of the oldest and most wealthy towns in Małopolska, it’s safe to assume that not all of Wieliczka’s wonders reside underground. Listed as a historical monument in 1994, the centre of the town itself - located between the two shafts - is easily walkable and perfectly charming, including a handsome town square, St. Clement’s Church, and the Saltworks Castle - which also happens to be on UNESCO’s coveted list.

Wieliczka WIELICZKA SALT MINE - TOURIST ROUTE The Tourist Route is the most popular way to experience the Wieliczka Salt Mine, and it begins at the Daniłowicza Shaft, located just a short walk up ul. Daniłowicza from the Wieliczka train station. Tickets can be bought from the ticket office at the entrance, or through their website, which is the best way to see the tour times available. Frequent tours are offered in Polish, English, Russian, French, Italian, Spanish and German. Be prepared to do a lot of walking (comfortable shoes, people) and bear in mind that the mine is a constant 15 degrees Celsius. The Tourist Route takes you to a max depth of -135m, with the 3.5km covered during the 3hr tour comprising a mere 1% of this underground realm. While wandering the mine’s ancient tunnels and chambers you’ll gain insight from your guide about the history of the site, the techniques used to extract the salt and the lives of the men who worked there. The highlight of the tour is the magnificent 22,000m³ St. Kinga’s Chapel dating from the 17th century. Known for its amazing acoustics, the chapel features bas-relief wall carvings from the New Testament done by miners that display an astonishing amount of depth and realism. Note that your ticket is valid for both the Tourist Route, which comprises the first 2hrs, and the Underground Museum which takes an additional 1hr to visit. In between there’s an opportunity to use the restrooms, get something to eat, visit the gift shop, or call it a day if that’s your preference. Though Wieliczka tour guides will suggest that the tour ends at the restaurant/gift shop, they are obliged to also escort you to and through the Underground Museum, which you have already paid for. The Museum comprises an additional 16 chambers over 1.5km packed full of artwork, artefacts and mining equipment. Highlights include two paintings by famous 19th century Polish artist Jan Matejko, and an entire room full of sparkling salt crystals.Qul. Daniłowicza 10, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl. Open 08:00-17:00. Tickets 93zł, 84zł students/seniors, 73zł kids.

The IYP team auditions for work underground on the Miners’ Route.

WIELICZKA SALT MINE - MINERS’ ROUTE A more interactive alternative to the mega-popular ‘Tourist Route,’ Wieliczka’s Miners’ Route offers visitors a chance to sign on as novice miners and learn the ropes of this dangerous and demanding profession. This workmanlike expedition sets off from the historic Regis Shaft, located right in the centre of Wieliczka, just a short walk east from the train station. Participants are given grey coveralls, a hard hat, headlamp and emergency respirator, assigned a locker, and told to suit up and report for underground duty. In addition to the fun of dressing up and looking slightly ridiculous, each person in the group is given a specific role by the foreman/tour guide for this 3-hour trip underground. While exploring passages and chambers that are sometimes lit only by the light of your own torches, you and your companions will learn safety measures, strange mining traditions and rituals, how to use specialised mining equipment and get a more authentic and exciting sense of what it’s like to work underground. While some members will be tasked with measuring the concentration of methane, transporting, or grinding up salt, the map readers have the challenging job of navigating the group through this extremely disorienting underground labyrinth. Szczęść Boże! Though lacking the jaw-dropping sights of the Tourist Route, the Miners’ Route can be great fun for groups (up to 20 people); individuals can also go on their own, or join together to form a group. Tours are given at specific times in Polish or English only, and should be reserved in advance; arrive 15mins before the tour begins in order to get geared up. While hardly strenuous, this route is more active than the Tourist Route and comfortable shoes are a must. Also, bear in mind that the mine is a cool 15 degrees Centigrade.QPlac Kościuszki 9, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl. Open 09:30-15:00. Tickets 93zł, 84zł students/seniors, 73zł kids.

BOOK A TOUR link bit.ly/WieliczkaTour 73

Auschwitz-Birkenau

The infamous Auschwitz I entrance gate

For centuries the town of Oświęcim was a quiet backwater community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed with WWII when Oświęcim, known as ‘Auschwitz’ under German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5 million people were exterminated here, etching the name of Auschwitz forever into the history books and countless films, documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since burned it into the collective consciousness.

presented in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps spared from fully surrendering to their emotions only by the sheer relentlessness of the information. No matter how much you think you know on the subject, the perspective gained by visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you choose to go to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However it should be understood that Auschwitz is not a site of Jewish concern, Polish concern, German concern, gypsy concern, historical concern... It is a site of human concern. As such, we believe everyone should visit.

Visitors to Kraków and Katowice are faced with asking themselves whether or not they will make the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a difficult question. There are few who would say they actually ‘want’ to visit Auschwitz, though many are compelled to do so for their own reasons. For those of us who don’t feel so compelled, it’s easy to give reasons for not going: not having enough time, already knowing as much as we need or want to know about it, not feeling personally connected enough to the site or the history to need to visit, or being uncomfortable about the prospect of visiting a site of such emotional resonance at the same time as hundreds of other tourists. Having been there, we can tell you that all of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz are perfectly reasonable until you’ve actually visited the site; you’ll be hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip and still argues against going.

VISITING AUSCHWITZ

The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion, poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it almost makes as lasting an impression as the site itself. Without being heavy-handed, the history of the site is 74

If you’ve decided to visit Auschwitz, you basically have three options: 1) visit as part of a group organised by a tourist agency, 2) visit independently and join a guided tour at the museum, or 3) visit independently for free without a guide. Unfortunately, the latter two options are now much more difficult, as all visits must now be booked in advance through the website visit.auschwitz.org. As a result, you may find there are no tickets available because they have all been snatched up by tourist agencies. Failure to book online doesn’t mean you can’t visit Auschwitz when you want, but it does basically force you to sign up for a tour through an outside provider. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as it relieves you of the hassle of figuring out how to get there and back, but you will essentially be paying a surcharge for the service. For most people, however, it is worth it. If you are determined to visit Auschwitz I independently you need to know that during peak season (March 1 October 31) the museum makes it obligatory to buy a ticket and become part of a 3.5hr guided tour, unless you

Auschwitz-Birkenau get there before 10:00 or after 16:00 (from November after 13:00) - at which times it is possible to visit for free on your own (note that last entrance to Auschwitz I is 1.5hrs before closing; Auschwitz II is always free to independent visitors). Even if visiting independently for free, you still need a ‘free ticket’ from the ticket office. Be that as it may, we strongly recommend the official guided tour, which is excellent, profound and professional; afterwards you’ll find it hard to imagine getting as much out of your visit had you explored the grounds on your own. Tour departure times fluctuate, but tours in English depart frequently; check online for exact schedule. Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum on your own can be chaotic and confusing thanks to large crowds and unclear signage. If you are visiting independently, or in a small group, head for the queue in front of the desk marked ‘Individual Guests;’ if it’s peak season (March 1 - Oct. 31) and you don’t already have tickets (not recommended), you must first visit the white Info box located outside the entrance. Once you’re through the queues, your experience typically begins with a harrowing 20-minute film of narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army when they arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945 (an additional 6/3zł, but recommended). The film is not guaranteed however, so in some cases your tour will begin straightaway with a live guide speaking into a microphone which you hear through your headphones. If you intend to explore Auschwitz without a guide, we recommend that you give yourself several hours to explore both camps, and that you pick up the official guidebook (10zł) whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid missing any of the key sites. Visiting Auschwitz is a full day’s excursion so prepare accordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I takes around 2 hours, so make sure you’ve eaten breakfast. After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a short break before the bus leaves for Auschwitz-Birkenau II; in order to stay with the same tour guide, you need to catch that bus, so it would be wise to pack some food for the day (though there is some limited food available at the museum). The tour of the second camp is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours. Buses regularly depart back to Auschwitz I, or you can walk or catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away. At Auschwitz I there are restrooms (have change available), a fast food bar and a restaurant; there are also restrooms at Auschwitz II-Birkenau. Note that only small bags are allowed into Auschwitz I; if your bag exceeds the very small dimensions of 30x20x10cm, you’ll have to leave it somewhere; lockers are provided for this purpose.Qul. Stanisławy Leszczyńskiej 11, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org. Open 07:30-16:00. From March open 07:30-17:00. Auschwitz is not recommended for those under 14 years old. An individual ticket for a foreign language guided tour of both camps costs 60/55zł. Admission without a guide (when possible) to either camp is free. The film at Auschwitz I costs 6/3zł.

GETTING TO AUSCHWITZ

Auschwitz II - Birkenau

photo by Erica Magugliani

Lying 75km west of Kraków, there are several ways to get to Oświęcim/Auschwitz. The easiest may be signing on for a tour organised by a multitude of Kraków-based tour companies (like Cracow City Tours or Cracow Tours) to ensure everything goes smoothly; providing transportation, tickets and general guidance, the organisational help of these outfits can eliminate significant confusion upon arrival. For those going the DIY route, whether by bus or train, the route planning website e-podroznik. pl is a valuable resource. Frequent buses depart for Oświęcim from Kraków’s main bus station (ul. Bosacka 18, L-4); most stop at the Auschwitz Museum entrance (called ‘Oświęcim Muzeum’), but not all, so make sure beforehand otherwise you may end up at the Oświęcim bus station which is at the other end of town. The journey takes 1hr 20-40mins and costs 12-15zł. Frequent, almost hourly trains also run between Kraków and Oświęcim, with a journey time of 1hr 45mins 2hrs 15mins and a cost of about 9zł; note, however, that early trains to Oświęcim can be eerily crowded, particularly on weekends. The Oświęcim train station (ul. Powstańców Śląskich 22) lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers 24-29 stop at Auschwitz I; buy a ticket (under 3zł) from the nearest kiosk. Free museum buses regularly shuttle visitors between the two camps, or catch a cab for 15zł. Waiting minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour (+48 605 31 50 77) can take you back to Kraków from either camp - a group of eight would pay about 30-40zł/person.

BOOK A TOUR link bit.ly/AuschwitzTour 75

Tarnów WHAT TO SEE THE MARKET SQUARE & TOWN HALL Tarnów’s charming market square, with its 15th century Town Hall, is the city’s crowning glory and social gravitational point. Start here. THE CATHEDRAL This red-brick Neo-Gothic wonder just off the Rynek dates back to the 14th century, and features a 72m tall tower and 5m monument of JPII. THE OLD SYNAGOGUE BIMAH Once the place of worship for 45% of the population, this ruined remnant of the Old Synagogue is a reminder of the city’s Jewish heritage.

Tarnów Market Square and Town Hall.

Eighty kilometres east of Kraków lies the charming and hospitable city of Tarnów. Małopolska’s second city by size, Tarnów is absolutely dwarfed by Kraków but features many of the same cultural and architectural charms without the crushing crowds, inflated prices and occasional feelings of herd mentality that unfortunately come along with a tourist market the size of Kraków’s. On the contrary, Tarnów offers tourists the comforts of a small town with a long history and the cultural intrigue and activities of a bigger city. In addition to a well-preserved medieval Old Town - which includes a glorious Cathedral, a cute market square and Town Hall, and many pedestrian avenues - in Tarnów visitors will discover several unique and worthwhile museums, wooden churches, historic cemeteries, castle ruins and a scenic overlook, as well as dozens of artistic and historical monuments at every turn. Those with a special interest in Jewish history will still discover a city with a deep Jewish heritage, many traces of which are still in evidence today. While the town’s nightlife may not have the sizzle of Kraków, there are still plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants where you’ll find it easy to meet friendly local folks who are proud of their city and eager to present a good impression to foreigners. All told it’s enough to warrant a day trip from Kraków, or even spend one or more nights, as Tarnów makes a superb base for exploring the wealth of other sites of interest in the region. For more information visit tarnow.inyourpocket.com, and make sure you also pay a visit to the fine folks at the Tourist Information Office (Rynek 7; open 08:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-17:00) when you arrive to pick up a copy of the Tarnów In Your Pocket miniguide. 76

THE FORMER MIKVAH One of Tarnów’s most unique buildings, this ritual Jewish bath house was built in Moorish style in 1904; before it stands a monument to the first transport of prisoners to Auschwitz, who were detained here. Today the mikvah houses a top restaurant. THE JEWISH CEMETERY Dating back to the 1580s, this haunting Jewish cemetery is one of the oldest and largest in PL, and a necessary part of any visit to Tarnów. ST. MARY’S CHURCH This beautiful little Gothic larch wood church dates back to the 15th century and is only a four block walk south from the market square. ST. MARTIN’S HILL Get active and explore the ruins of Tarnowski Castle - with panoramic views of the Old Town, and see St. Martin’s - a wooden church nearby.

Tarnów Market Square

GETTING TO TARNÓW Only 80km east of Kraków, Tarnów can be easily reached by car in less than one hour via the tollfree A4 highway. Buses and trains run frequently from Kraków to Tarnów, but journey times vary. Use the route-planning site e-podroznik.pl to find exact connections.

Polish Kiełbasa from the legendary blue van. | photo by Maja Drząszcz

7 Essential Eating Experiences From local street food to EU-protected regional products, these are the eating experiences you must have while in Kraków. 78

Essential Eats ESSENTIAL EATS What’s the first food item people associate with Poland? Yes, pierogi - a stuffed dumpling whose general equivalent can be found in just about every single regional cuisine the world over. That’s not to disparage pierogi, but if you’ve tried them locally (p.100) and think you’re done with Kraków food tourism, we insist otherwise.

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Just as every country has its own specific culinary profile, so too does every city. We’d argue that the latter is far more interesting, revealing and rewarding than the former, as it gives you a greater sense not only of place, but also people, contributing to the unique character of a city. From street food to traditional national dishes, here are the most essential eating experiences you must have while in Kraków. Consider it an edible to-do list: •

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Obwarzanki

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Any culinary journey through Kraków is likely to start with the obwarzanek. A chewy dough ring sprinkled with salt, poppy or sesame seeds, obwarzanki are sold from rolling street carts all over Kraków, and are so inescapable they’ve become an unofficial symbol of the city.

Photo by Chris Brown

Known as the ‘Cracovian bagel,’ the obwarzanek gets its name from the Polish word for ‘par-boiled’ and therefore differs slightly from the bagel, in addition to being its popular counterpart’s predecessor. Though the origins of the bagel are hotly-contested, most agree that it was invented by Cracovian Jews after 1496 when a decree restricting the production of baked goods was lifted. First written mention of the obwarzanek, meanwhile, dates back earlier to 1394, meaning that it’s been a daily sight in Kraków for 625 years. In 2010 it was given prestigious status as a protected regional food under EU law. Although the price of an obwarzanek has inflated up to around 2zł (sacrilege!), you’ll still see countless people munching these braided pretzel rings. Tasty and filling when fresh, Cracovian bakers produce up to 200,000 obwarzanki daily in the summer, despite the fact that on leaving the oven these baked goods have a sell-by date of about three hours. As such, finding a fresh one is essential, but for a couple coins you can afford to try your luck.

Biting into a zapiekanka on Plac Nowy

Photo by Maja Drząszcz

2. ZAPIEKANKA FROM PLAC NOWY

Essentially a baguette pizza, zapiekanki emerged during the communist era as the ultimate Polish street food: cheap, fast, filling, and easy enough to make that anywhere with a wall socket and space for a toaster could become a zapiekanki stand. Order one at any train station in PL and you’ll essentially receive half a stale baguette covered with mushrooms and cheese, thrown in a toaster oven and squirted with ketchup. Underwhelming to say the least. However, the vendors of the Plac Nowy roundhouse (K-8. p.38) - Kazimierz’s drunk food headquarters - have taken this simple concept and gone gourmet with it, making a true art out of the ‘Polish pizza.’ With endless addons (including salami, spinach, smoked cheese, pickles, pineapple, feta – you name it), garlic sauce and chives have become standard procedure at this point. Because of their popularity you’ll witness ridiculous lines at the various windows around the roundhouse, but the wait is worth it. At 6-12zł (depending on toppings) it’s a great value and will sustain you through a night of heavy drinking (if copious amounts of bread isn’t in your diet, split one with friend by asking the vendor to cut it in half ). To leave town without having tried a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be felonious, as would settling for one anywhere else in Kraków. Most vendors on Plac Nowy are open from mid-afternoon until about 02:00, but it all depends on factors outside our purview.

3. KIEŁBASA FROM THE BLUE VAN

‘Kiełbasa’ is probably one of the most internationally understood words in the Polish language, and this legendary sidewalk stand is the place to partake locally in a Polish sausage. A Cracovian street food institution for over twenty-five years, here two old boys in white smocks set up shop outside their iconic blue Nyska (a Soviet model van) every evening except Sundays to grill kiełbasa sausages over a wood-fired stove for the hungry, drunken masses. For 8zł you get a delicious sausage, slightly stale roll, ketchup, mustard and an unforgettable experience. Essentially Kraków’s first food truck, don’t miss it if you’re in the neighbourhood. QK‑6, ul. Grzegórzecka 3 (Plac Targowy). Open 20:00-03:00. Closed Sun. 79

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A tradition of the mountainous Podhale region just south of Kraków, oscypek is a smoked cheese made from salted sheep milk which is curdled, then rinsed repeatedly with boiling water, squeezed, and pressed into wooden forms which give it it’s decorative shape. It has a distinct smoky, salty flavour and chewy texture, and, like the obwarzanek, is protected under EU law. Though not technically Cracovian, since Kraków is the closest metropolitan area to the Tatras, oscypek is a common site in the city’s markets; you’ll also find babcias (Polish grannies) selling their decorative cheeses near the train station. The best way to enjoy oscypek, however (in our opinion, anyway), is grilled with a side of cranberry sauce. Most traditional Polish restaurants will serve it this way as an appetiser, or if you’re lucky you can score some at one of Kraków’s many food fairs on the market square or Mały Rynek. •P

Though the concept apparently dates back to the turn of the century, the Polish milk bar became a societal institution after WWII when PL’s communist authorities began nationalising the country’s restaurants and sought to popularise milk-drinking (as opposed to vodka), inspired by Poland’s large surplus of dairy products. As such, originally no hot dishes were served; the milk bar was a place where you went simply to enjoy milk, served in a glass with a straw (so classy). But the proletariat can’t run on milk alone and soon the Party concept had shifted to providing cheap, dairy-based meals to the masses; in fact, a worker’s salary often included meals at the local milk bar. In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage cheese and other dairy concoctions, milk bars offered omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as flour-based foods like pierogi. With the collapse of communism most bar mleczny went bankrupt, however, some of these feed museums were saved and continue to be kept open through state subsidies. Indecisiveness is unacceptable, so if you’re not sure what to order, pierogi are always a safe bet, or be bold and go for bigos (a hearty cabbage stew). The range of available dishes begins to fall off as closing time approaches, so go early, go often. POD TEMIDĄ Located right on the Royal Route, this is the easiest milk bar to find: look for the blue and white ‘Bar Mleczny’ sign.QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 43, tel. (+48) 12 422 08 74. Open 09:0020:00. €. U 80

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Essentially the inverse of gourmet dining, the Polish milk bar (‘bar mleczny’) was the communist party’s solution for how to feed the masses, and a visit to one of these working class cafeterias today provides a rare insight into Eastern Bloc Poland. Quickly serving traditional cuisine to a steady queue of students, pensioners and tramps, here you can eat a full meal for only a few coins. You get what you pay for in terms of atmosphere, but in terms of food it’s an unbeatable value. That said, anyone stepping into a milk bar should be doing so as much for the cultural experience as the culinary one.

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Essential Eats

Smoked cheese in Koliba

KOLIBA GÓRALSKIE PRZYSMAKI Just off the market square, this small food stand turns smoked cheese into street food, serving it hot off the grill with cranberry sauce (4zł), or wrapped in bacon (5zł).QI‑5, ul. Szewska 4, tel. (+48) 605 31 29 54. Open 10:00-21:00.

6. PĄCZKI

A tradition since the 1700s, the pączek (plural: pączki) is Poland’s national doughnut, and so popular that it even has its own annual holiday – Tłusty Czwartek (Fat Thursday) – which falls on February 20th this year (lucky you! see the box on p.81). A traditional pączek is filled with rose jam and glazed with sugar and candied orange peel, or simply topped with powdered sugar. These can be found in any local cukiernia, but a new breed of doughnut shops are now expanding the horizons of the humble pączek by offering an array of fillings, and we list the best below: GORĄCE PĄCZKIQI‑5, ul. Szewska 25, tel. (+48) 791 55 55 88. Open 10:00-24:00. €. STARA PĄCZKARNIA Also at Karmelicka 8 (H-5), and in the underpass between Planty and Galeria Krakowska (K-5).QJ‑8, ul. Stradomska 18, tel. (+48) 506 95 88 90, www.starapaczkarnia.pl. Open 09:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00. €.

Essential Eats 7. VODKA & PICKLED HERRING

A very Polish phenomenon that has swept the country in recent years is the all-night snacks and shots bar. Known locally as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’ (literally ‘Appetisers & Snacks’), or ‘Polish Tapas’ as it’s been dubbed by some, these trendy budget bars can be found all over town, cashing in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by offering a small selection of simple, Soviet-era appetisers (typically served cold) for about 8-10zł each, with drinks at 4-5zł. Much like a milk bar with a liquor license, the menu reads like a list of correct answers to the Jeopardy category ‘Foods That Go With Vodka’ and typically includes śledź (pickled herring), galaretka (pig trotters in jelly), kiełbasa (sausage), pierogi, pickles and beef tartare. For the proper experience, however, it has to be pickled herring and clear vodka; Ambasada Śledzia (The Herring Embassy) offers not only the widest variety of śledź, but also the best quality, plus a slightly less sloppy atmosphere than the 24-hour student mayhem found in Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa or Bania Luka. AMBASADA ŚLEDZIA (THE HERRING EMBASSY) The editorial fave. When this main ‘Herring Embassy’ shutters, the all-night shenanigans carry on down the street at ul. Stolarska 5 (‘Śledź u Fryzjera,’ open 12:00 04:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00).QJ‑6, ul. Stolarska 8/10, tel. (+48) 662 56 94 60. Open 09:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 09:0003:00. o BANIALUKA Also at ul. Szewska 13 (B-3).QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 6, tel. (+48) 790 77 06 48. Open 10:00-06:00. Uo PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA Also at ul. Floriańska 34 (J-5), ul. Szewska 20 (I-5) and Pl. Nowy 7 (K-8).QJ‑5, ul. Św. Jana 3-5 (entrance from ul. Św. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 80 75. Open 09:0006:00. o

An assortment of herring from Ambasada Śledzia.

FAT THURSDAY & HERRING NIGHT

As in other Catholic countries that celebrate the last day before the fasting season of Lent begins, Poland has its own version of the French Mardi Gras (Fat Tuesday), known locally as Tłusty Czwartek, or Fat Thursday, which falls on February 20th this year. With Lent forbidding sweets and treats, Fat Thursday is a similar celebration of gluttonous indulgence as in other countries, but with the date bungled, and instead of parading and partying the Poles queue up in lines that sometimes stretch around the corner in order to purchase pastries from the local cukiernia, or bakery. Poland’s favourite pastries on Fat Thursday are pączki (pictured above) - large deep-fried doughnuts typically filled with rose jam. In the last few years, pączki have actually caught on as a trendy year-round street food filled with all manner of tasty fillings; so even if you miss Fat Thursday, you can snatch a delicious snack at the sidewalk stands listed on p.80. Another Fat Thursday favourite are faworki - thin dough ribbons, fried until crispy and sprinkled with powdered sugar. The number of these baked goods consumed annually on Fat Thursday is truly astronomical, but you can also buy them any day of the year in most bakeries. HERRING NIGHT (ŚLEDZIÓWKA) But wait - there’s another day to cram your face with local delicacies before Lent begins! The Tuesday following Fat Thursday is actually the last day before the Wielki Post (The Great Fast/Lent) begins. It’s also the day that marks the end of the Karnawał (Carnival) period, which in many other countries is the day people will celebrate before the forty days of fasting and religious observance should begin. In Poland this is known as Śledziówka (literally Herring Night) and you’ll find traditional pickled herring washed down with shots of vodka in many homes, bars and restaurants - some of which we list in the previous column. Be warned that this can get messy despite the fact most people are supposed to be at work or university the following day. In 2020 Śledziówka falls on February 25th. 81

Traditional Polish Dishes

Behold the mighty and pervasive PIEROGI

Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and not especially colourful. You simply haven’t had a thorough sampling of it until you’ve tried all the traditional dishes below, all of which can be found at almost any Polish restaurant in town. Smacznego!

BIGOS

Though there is no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

GOŁĄBKI

Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz IV fed his army gołąbki before a battle against the Teutonic Order, and their unlikely victory has been attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

GOLONKA

Bigos

Pork knuckle or hock, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish delicacy, the boiled, braised or roasted meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Go caveman.

Traditional Polish Dishes KOTLET SCHABOWY

Probably the most popular lunch/ supper in Poland is the almighty ‘schabowy’ with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, and you can walk into almost restaurant in the country and be assured of its presence on the menu (if the kitchen hasn’t run out of it already). Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a Saturday or Sunday morning by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the collective sound of every housewife in Poland tenderising the meat for this meal with a spiky mallet. So best mind your manners.

PIEROGI

Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawberries or plums, though if you nose around you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver. The possibilities are truly limitless and they are served almost everywhere in the city, but we list the best spots on p.108.

PLACKI ZIEMNIACZANE

These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to Jewish latkes, and may be served simply with sour cream, or as a hefty meal smothered in mushroom sauce or goulash. Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

ZUPA (SOUP)

Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with potatoes and veggies tossed in, with a croquette or miniature pierogi floating in it, or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking (‘barszcz solo’). A recommended alternative to other beverages with any winter meal, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Kraków. It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg chucked in, and often served in a bread bowl. 83

Breakfast & Brunch For some the direction of the day can depend on the ability to eat a good breakfast, so we’ve highlighted some of our favourite spots that specialise in śniadania (the Polish word for breakfast), both for early birds and those that won’t eat their first meal until the afternoon. Get a real taste of Kraków in one of the places below.

BOWLO Have a healthy start in Bowlo, Kraków’s base for trendy ‘Buddha Bowls’ - simple compositions of warm rice or grains, leafy greens, veggies and sauce. Get there before 12:00 (14:00 on weekends) and choose from a range of savoury and sweet breakfast bowls, smothered waffles, shakshukas and sandwiches, each of which comes with an underrated filtered coffee for only 1zł Mon-Fri. If that’s not exciting enough, try a pastel-coloured rose, lavender or matcha latte; or better yet, go for a vitamin-rich cold-pressed juice, made on site.QH‑5, ul. Krupnicza 22, tel. (+48) 733 13 39 54. Open 08:30-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00. €. T6 KAZIMIR RESTAURANT & BAR Open for breakfast before some neighbourhood bars have even closed, Kazimir offers one of the best breakfast spreads around for 32zł (served 07:00-12:00). Featuring fresh breads, spreads, cheese, meats, seasonal fruits, yoghurt, granola, cereals, salads and more, plus hot and cold drinks, the kitchen will even specially prepare hot dishes like pancakes and omelettes at no extra cost. If you’re the type who just wants a hot, hearty meal in the morning, skip the buffet entirely and order their English breakfast for just 10zł, or go for both for 42zł.QJ‑8, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. (+48) 690 62 42 95, www.spatz.pl/restauracja. Open 07:00-22:00. €. T6 RANNY PTASZEK This brilliant ‘breakfast bar’ combines the classic American budget diner (pink retro decor, sunny ‘60s soul grooves) with the modern brunchery (the vegetarian menu is more healthy habits than greasy spoon). Healthy, affordable and served super fast, compose your own meal from shaksuka, vegan sausage, patatas bravas, pickled veggies, hummus and more, or go for one of their sandwiches or salads. Unfortunately, space is super limited, so enjoy this pleasure with just your sweetheart, because the whole fam won’t fit.QJ‑8, ul. Augustiańska 5, tel. (+48) 517 65 62 46. Open 08:00-16:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-16:00. €. 6 84

MAK BREAD & COFFEE Normally we wouldn’t tout a hotel venue, but this lovely bakery/ cafe attached to the PURO Hotel in Kazimierz offers plenty of space and a wonderful modern design full of artistic touches, albums and periodicials. Baking their own fresh breads and pastries, Mak offers a range of breakfast options (served all day) built around their baked goods - bagel and baguette sandwiches, shaksuka, omelettes - and their coffee is absolutely excellent. If you’re looking for a more leisurely lifestyle, you can learn something here.QL‑8, ul. Przemyska 5, tel. (+48) 12 889 90 50. Open 07:00-20:00. €. KARMA Start your day right in this cult cafe patroned by Kraków’s progressives. Karma takes coffee seriously, roasting their own beans and boasting the best espresso machine in town. As if that weren’t reason enough, they offer a range of vegan and vegetarian breakfasts until 13:00, including fried eggs and corn fritters, pancakes with maple syrup, vegan scrambled eggs and more. Or go for the millenial hangover cure - an egg and avocado sandwich with one of their home-brewed kombuchas.QH‑5, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel. (+48) 662 38 72 81, www.karmaroasters. com. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-19:00. €. T6 BAL Hidden near MOCAK and Schindler’s Factory, this industrial cafe will give you some street cred and sustenance before a big day of sightseeing. Open early, they serve a range of cheap and delicious breakfasts until 11:30, when their faithful lunch crowd storms in. Choose from poached egg sets, breakfast bowls, bagel sandwiches (served all day) and even breakfast sets for two. On weekends, brunch is served all day and includes the drink of your choice (Prosecco for most).QN‑9, ul. Ślusarska 9 (entrance from ul. Przemysłowa), tel. (+48) 734 41 17 33. Open 08:00-16:00; Thu 08:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-20:00; Sun 09:00-16:00. €. T6 85

Cafés

Charlotte | Photo by Paulina Zięcik

CAFE BAR MAGIA This inviting cafe on the ground floor of the historic Hipolit House is an all-season affair that exudes Cracovian charm. In summer enjoy the Plac Mariacki patio, or retreat into the more intimate interior garden for a glass of cider or spritzer in the sunshine. Likewise, entering in winter is like pulling on a warm sweater, with soft sounds on the stereo, and plenty of hot drinks and comfy corners to choose from. If you need a bite, there’s a substantial menu of baguettes, wraps, quiche, soups, salads and cakes (oh the cakes). Just when it couldn’t get more cosy, there’s Hipolit - the resident cat - who literally pre-warms the seats. Also a second location at ul. Św. Anny 11 (B-3).QJ‑5, Plac Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 426 47 73, www.cafebarmagia.pl. Open 09:0001:00. W CAWA CAFE & WINE Next door to Drukarnia, this small, friendly neighbourhood hangout from the same team as Camelot was a pioneer in revitalising Old Podgórze’s riverfront. An ideal meeting place for coffee, brunch, wine or a bite to eat, the casual atmosphere of the intimate interior spills onto the sidewalk on sunny days. Enjoy 12zł glasses of wine, as well as draught Prosecco (10zł/100ml). The menu offers delicious breakfast options (poached eggs with smoked salmon and avocado toast), plus snails, shrimp and a unique assortment of French, Japanese, Thai and Italian-inspired dishes.QL‑10, ul. Nadwiślańska 1/6 (Podgórze), tel. (+48) 691 74 11 98 , www.cawacafe.pl. Open 08:30-22:00; Fri 08:30-24:00; Sat 09:30-24:00; Sun 09:30-22:00. 86

CHARLOTTE. CHLEB I WINO Step into Charlotte and you might not be certain if you’ve wandered into a Parisian-style bistro or a fashion mag photo shoot. Here the clients are almost indistinguishable from the staff as well-bred hipsters break bread while their aproned friends scurry about with rattling trays of pastry, homemade honey and jam. The menu is built around the delicious bread baked on-site and includes French classics like Croque Monsieur and creme brulee, gourmet cheese and meat platters - all accompanied by great coffee or wine. The high ceilings and wall-length windows give Charlotte an open, sociable atmosphere, which either makes up for or explains the sometimes spotty service we’ll let you decide.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 600 80 78 80, www.bistrocharlotte.pl. Open 07:00-24:00; Fri 07:00-01:00; Sat 08:00-01:00; Sun 08:00-22:00. T6 CUPCAKE CORNER BAKERY This cheerful American-style bakery/cafe couldn’t be more authentic if it was run by Martha Stewart herself. Offering 8 cupcake flavours each day, choose from delicious creations like Peanut Butter Brownie, Carrot Cake and Red Velvet, plus vegan options. But cupcakes are only part of the game - start your day with a bagel slathered in one of their flavoured cream cheeses, and don’t miss their all-natural, artisanal ice cream and milkshakes. Rumour is they’ll also have doughnuts in time for Fat Thursday (p.81). Also at ul. Bracka 4 (I-6), ul. Grodzka 48 (J-6) and ul. Michałowskiego 14 (H-4).QI‑5, ul. Szewska 22, tel. (+48) 577 53 53 51, www.cupcakecorner.pl. Open 07:30-22:00; Sun 08:0022:00. TU

Cafés CYTAT CAFE This literary cafe in the heart of Kazimierz offers the perfect place to escape into a book, slap about the laptop, catch up with a friend, or just caffeinate. ‘Quotation Cafe’ lives up to its name with used books everywhere, quotes stencilled all over the walls, and each large, delicious coffee coming with a printed quote (ours appropriately reading, ‘A poet is one who knows how to be unhappy in an elegant way.’ Stanisław Lem). A great option for breakfast (egg, bacon and cheese on a croissant for the win!) - served until 13:00, they also serve baguettes, beer and wine, and have an entire wall of boardgames.QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 23/1. Open 08:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-22:00. 6 JAMA MICHALIKA Established in 1895, it was in this grand venue that Młoda Polska - Poland’s Art Nouveau movement - was founded, with many of the leading artists of the day taking their libations here, and then tacking their art on the walls. Much of it is still here, as well as fin-de-siecle furnishings, stained glass, an anachronous cloakroom and smoking section. In addition to beer, coffee and sweets, there’s also a full menu of Polish food; enjoy a three-course meal with live folk dancing very Weds & Sat at 19:00 (119zł). Although the abundance of tourist groups and the poker-faced nature of the staff limits the appeal of return visits, stopping in at this legendary venue is still essential.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 45, tel. (+48) 12 422 15 61, www.jamamichalika.pl. Open 09:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-23:00. XUE6 KARMA COFFEE ROASTERY A satellite of the hip cafe on Krupnicza (p.85), Karma is the only cafe in town to roast their own coffee beans, filling their Kazimierz location with the sweet, sticky smell of sentience in the very air. Primarily a roastery, this minimal white-washed space is where the science behind Krakow’s best coffee happens. Offering various blends via espresso, Chemex or Aeropress, in addition to coffee Karma also makes their own kombucha, and has a range of natural wines, vegan cakes and gluten-free baked goods. Step inside to see if you take your coffee as seriously as they do.QK‑9, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 9, www.karmaroasters. com. Open 11:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00. T6 NOWOROLSKI This classic cafe inside the Cloth Hall has seen the city’s highs and lows since opening in 1910. Favoured by Comrade Lenin during his visits, WWII saw Noworolski become the top haunt of Nazi elites, before being commandeered by the communist authorities during the PRL era. Things have changed little here, making Noworolski a creaky throwback favoured today by well-dressed locals in the autumn of their years, but live piano concerts and the exquisite art nouveau interiors by Józef Mehoffer make it well worth a look. You can find cheaper and better coffee, but it won’t be served against such an atmospheric backdrop.QI‑5, Rynek Główny 1, tel. (+48) 515 10 09 98, www.noworolski.com. pl. Open 10:00-22:00. NBE

POLISH DESSERTS

Kremówka

Few things in life get a Pole more animated than a good dessert. Known for not being too sweet, the classic Polish desserts below can be purchased in any ‘cukiernia’ (pastry shop) and in most cafes. KREMÓWKA A cream pie made of two thin layers of puff pastry filled with vanilla custard cream and often topped with powdered sugar. One of our favourite Polish treats, kremówka was popularised across PL by the late Pope John Paul II, who made the mistake of offhandedly commenting about eating cream cakes once in his hometown of Wadowice (p.72), thus creating a cottage industry of ‘kremówki papieskie’ (papal cream cakes) in the small town almost overnight. PĄCZKI Learn more about these fried doughnuts on p.80-81. PIERNIKI Polish gingerbread, or pierniki, comes in many varieties, but the most famous is Toruński Piernik, which has been produced in the northern town of Toruń since the Middle Ages. Slightly soft, chewy and flavoured with honey, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, cardamom, nutmeg, anise and lavender, these small gingerbread cookies can be glazed with sugar, covered in chocolate or filled with marmalade. SERNIK Polish for ‘cheesecake,’ sernik is one of the country’s most popular desserts and you’ll have a hard time convincing any Pole you’ve been to their country if you don’t try it. Made with a sweet curd cheese (twaróg) and served cold, there are plenty of variations, including those with raisins, gelatin or chocolate sauce. Every Polish family has a sernik specialist whose job it is to bring one of these delicious cakes to holiday gatherings and get-togethers. SZARLOTKA Any Pole will tell you that the best apples in the world come from Poland, and Polish apple pie is a standard served almost everywhere you go. Made with shortbread, the apples are typically tart and flavoured with cinnamon and cloves. 87

Restaurants

Extraordinary Wawel and Wisła views from the rooftop terrace of Malecon restaurant (p.95).

The number of places to eat in Kraków is now extremely wide, and though the city’s most refined restaurants are still waiting for starry-eyed acceptance from a certain French tyre company, Kraków’s culinary rep is most definitely on the rise. For proof, Kraków is the first city to receive the prestigious title ‘European Capital of Gastronomic Culture 2019’ - take that, Michelin. There are certainly more good restaurants in Kraków than you could ever possibly fit into one trip, so fear not, you won’t have to eat tyres. While our print guide carries a wide selection of Kraków’s most noteworthy restaurants, there are many, many more listed on our website (iyp.me/krakow), where we encourage you to leave your own comments. All IYP reviews are updated regularly and completely subjective. The opening hours we list are rough guidelines as to when you can expect the chef to be working. Smacznego! FINE DINING The debate over Kraków’s ‘best restaurant’ is a contentious and constantly shifting one. In the conversation at this moment are Szara Gęś (p.104), Trzy Rybki (p.96), Copernicus (p.94), Bottiglieria 1881 (p.100), and Art Restaurant (p.100). BUDGET A milk bar (p.80) is as cheap as you’ll eat anywhere in your life, and the prices in U Stasi (p.100) are just as low; try Czerwone Korale (p.100) or Nakryto (p.102) for budget Polish food with actual atmosphere. Not a fan of Polish cuisine? Chimera (p.94), Pizzatopia (p.98) and Bunkier (p.93) all offer great value and ambiance. 88

FAMILIES Slowly but surely, more places in Kraków have things like high chairs, and play corners - look for the Child-Friendly symbol T at the end of each listing. That said, our current top picks are Miód i Wino (p.102) for its theatrics, and Pod Wawelem (p.103) for its rumpus room; both have food your kids will actually eat. Meanwhile, Orzo (p.96) organises activities for kids on the weekends from 13:00-18:00. LARGE GROUPS Travelling in a group of more than five people can be a serious handicap when it comes to finding a place that will accommodate you. It’s strongly recommended to make reservations ahead of time, even if you’re just going out for drinks, and especially on weekends. Failing that, Cargo (p.89), Boccanera (p.198), Kazimir (p.101) and Stara Zajezdnia (p.111) are all solid back-up plans with lots of space. COUPLES Kraków is a marvellous backdrop for romance, but making a reservation is imperative in this town, especially on weekends. Put a call in to Bottiglieria (p.100, Karakter (p.94), Bianca (p.96) or Euskadi (p.46) and let the atmosphere do the rest. INTERNATIONAL CUISINE Already had enough Polish food? Euskadi (Basque, p.46), Sakana (Asian, p.91), Indus Tandoor (Indian, p.93) and Hamsa (contemporary Israeli, p.99) are all excellent, and Zazie Bistro (French, p.92) has garnered awards for being one of the best values in town.

Restaurants SYMBOL & PRICE KEY 6 Animal friendly

C‑1 Map Coordinate

T Child-friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

o Year-Round Garden X Smoking room available

€ €€ €€€ €€€€ €€€€€

most mains under 25zł most mains 25-45zł most mains 45-75zł most mains 75-115zł most mains over 115zł

+ 48 12 422 20 53

AMERICAN CARGO GRILL & DELI Front and centre at Tytano, this big, upscale steakhouse angles for tourists and large groups over local hipsters. The post-industrial design of chunky wooden tables and firehouse red fixtures achieves a certain smartness by the sheer volume of poised, professional staff on hand. Keep things within reason with a burger, or splurge with a dryaged steak; in between you’ll find some unique pierogi and an extensive wine list. Whether or not Cargo achieves the status of a top restaurant, it certainly operates like one. QG‑4, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10/2, tel. (+48) 12 686 55 22, www.cargokrakow.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:0023:00. €€€. TB6 JONATAN STREET KITCHEN Formerly Zupa soup kitchen, this tiny casual diner has branched out into American barbecue, offering what we would argue might be the best ribs in town. The sauce is perfect, the meat slips right of the bones, and you know you’re in a solid establishment when there are multiple condiments in squeezy bottles on each table. Their delicious soups are still available - Thai coconut, cream of tomato and chilli con carne (perfectly spiced and probably the best in Kraków) - but they also offer a calamari sandwich that’s a bit like a po’ boy, and a crab sandwich in which the entire crab - shell and all - goes straight into the fryer. We weren’t brave enough to try the latter, but we’ve already been back for those ribs.QK‑8, ul. Warszauera 3, tel. (+48) 536 30 64 46. Open 12:00-24:00. €€. TU6 MOO MOO STEAK & BURGER CLUB On first glance this ‘club’ looks exclusive indeed, with runway waitresses, collared clientele and a minimal, modern monochromatic interior more ideal for a romantic date than spreading your face over a beef patty (and vice versa). The menu reveals an array of refined options from river trout to shrimp, with a bigger emphasis on choice steaks than their burgers - which when cut in half would actually pass for two burgers in most places. The reasonable prices and random music make Moo Moo a lot less pretentious

+ 48 531 007 097

Restaurants than it first appears, and it’s a place we enjoy coming back to.QJ‑5, ul. Świętego Krzyża 15, tel. (+48) 531 00 70 97, www.moomoo.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:0024:00. €€€. TU MOO MOO STEAK & WINE With an enviable location right on Mały Rynek, this modern steakhouse’s classy comportment and casual atmosphere make it a popular choice for dinner parties and dating couples. The steaks are tender and juicy, but the burgers seem to be the consumers’ consensus for best value. Served on oblong buns and conveniently cut in half, it’s easy to swap and share, but we’ll tell you right now - the burger with camembert, pear and caramelised onion is the best. If you’re as into red wine as you are red meat, there are almost 100 vintages to choose from.QJ‑6, ul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12 422 20 53, www.moomoo.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€€. T PANCAKE HOUSE Directly across from the Galicia Jewish Museum, this small eatery cooks up an extensive range of sweet and savoury stuffed naleśniki (the local equivalent of French crepes) and fluffy American pancakes. Compose your own from a wide range of ingredients and sauces, or choose from tasty creations like the crepes stuffed with grilled chicken, blue cheese, arugula and walnuts with honey-mustard sauce, or perhaps you’d like to scarf a highly Instagrammable stack of pancakes with marshmallow fluff, whipped cream, chocolate sauce and carmelised popcorn? An ideal breakfast/brunch option in Kazimierz, the prices are affordable, and the portions are so generous we could barely finish. Keep an eye on their daily promotions and monthly specials.QL‑8, ul. Dajwór 23/1, tel. (+48) 606 41 69 07. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-22:00. €. TE6

ASIAN

Al. 3 maja 9, Kraków + 48 12 383 34 33 www.sakana.pl

MOLAM THAI CANTEEN & BAR This trendy contemporary Thai canteen is inspired by Bangkok street food, but also travels across South-east Asia. The delicious and delightfully spicy dishes are designed for sharing and arrive whenever they’re ready, adding to the casual, super-social atmosphere, further enhanced by closely aranged tables, an open kitchen and chatty servers who act like old friends. The menu changes often and it’s recommended to order two portions of sticky rice and at least two menu items per person. Molam also offers signature cocktails, including some served in outrageously large punch bowls for sharing. Reservations are recommmended, and repeat visits are encouraged. QH‑4, ul. Rajska 3, www.molam.pl. Open 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. €€. TU6

A standard tip in Poland is: 90

10%

Restaurants SAKANA SUSHI & STICKS Located on the ground floor of an ultra-modern office building, Kraków’s Sakana - with its seemingly endless wooden sushi counter, tall angled windows and designer furnishings - looks set to scoop several design awards. The menu encompasses everything from Japanese tapas and street food to traditionally grilled dishes and expertly-made sushi, and actually offers images of every fresh, delicious and exquisitely presented dish. With a kids’ menu and play area, it qualifies as a family restaurant, but Sakana is even better suited for those looking to impress partners in business or romance.QF‑6, Al. 3 Maja 9, tel. (+48) 12 383 34 33, www.sakana.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:0022:00. €€. TUL6 TAJ Spacious and filled with a tasteful assortment of plants, artwork and lanterns, Taj definitely caters to more European tastes, but the food is nevertheless delicious, and a huge improvement over previous Thai offerings in town. Choose from satay, spring rolls, tom yum, papaya salad, different coloured curries, Thai basil chicken, pad thai, stir-fried tofu with cashews, mango with sticky rice and other Thai favourites. Vegan and omnivore lunch sets are served 12:00-16:00 Mon-Fri and cost a measly 22zł.QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 19, tel. (+48) 12 307 07 23. Open 12:00-22:00; Wed, Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. T6 TAO THAI & SUSHI This trendy Japanese and Thai bistro in Podgórze (just over the lovely Bernatek footbridge) is smart and stylish, and features an amazing seasonal garden, which lures in the after-work drinks crowd (try the plum wine!), but also caters to kids with swinging seats and several fluffy rabbits literally hopping about between the tables. The expansive, expert menu features standards such as edamame, dim sum, Thai curry, pad thai and tempura, as well as their own specialties like the tasty Tempura Burger. All of it is absolutely delicious, and an able aid for the night’s aims, whether it’s business, romance or simple relaxation.QK‑10, ul. Józefińska 4, tel. (+48) 725 88 03 04, www.taogarden.pl. Open 12:0022:00. €€. TUB6

BALKAN BALKAN EXPRESS GRILL Drop into this budget Balkan eatery hidden deep within a large courtyard off of Floriańska for traditional specialties like ćevapi (sausage) sandwiches and tasty pljeskavica burgers slathered in ajvar and served in their own fresh-baked buns. Thanks to their huge garden and street food appeal, it’s a trendy spot with locals looking a beer in the sunshine, or a fast, budget meal that’s not a sketchy kebab. Now they’ve also started offering traditional Polish food (pierogi, żurek, breaded pork chops, zapiekanki) and Polish grilled meat platters for those unable to quell their blood sausage cravings.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 39, tel. (+48) 730 33 32 22, www.balkanexpressgrill.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. €. 6 91

Restaurants FOOD TRUCK PARKS DWOREK STREET FOOD PARK This trendy hangout next to Puro Hotel is a great alternative to the eating options inside Galeria Krakowska. Behind a colourful gateway of painted palettes you’ll find beach chairs, benches, sand and boardwalks, toilets and a playground, plus, of course, plenty of food vendors, as well as local beer from Brokreacja.QK‑3, ul. Pawia 30. Open 12:00-21:00. JUDAH SQUARE FOOD TRUCK PARK Food trucks are the latest food fad in PL, and Kazimierz’s Skwer Judah - named after the massive mural that adorns it - provides parking and some scant seating for this culinary trend. Tenants change often, but the Andrus Food Truck - serving maczanka, the Cracovian pulled pork sandwich - is a noteworthy mainstay.QK‑9, Skwer Judah, ul. Św Wawrzyńca 16, tel. (+48) 508 70 67 08. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. MURAL FOOD TRUCK SQUARE One of the city’s smallest, but nicest food truck parks, ‘Mural’ is so-named for its central location under the large mural next to the Mehoffer Museum. Dominated by a two-storey patio bar (heated in autumn/ winter), Mural’s smart design and chill atmosphere demonstrate how Kraków’s other food parks should clean up their act. The number of food trucks is limited to 6, but includes Indian cuisine, ice cream, gofry (waffles), curries, burgers, delicious pulled pork and some amazing tacos.QH‑5, ul. Krupnicza 24, tel. (+48) 606 35 24 72. Open 12:00-20:00; Thu 12:0022:00; Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-22:00. PLAC IZAAKA This food truck park behind Isaac Synagogue is more central and arguably the more scenic and atmospheric than nearby Judah Square, thanks to gravel instead of asphalt, some potted plants, and actual attempts at proper seating. You’ll find about 4 food trucks here this time of year, plus a mulled wine station.QK‑8, Corner of Izaaka, Ciemna and Jakuba, tel. (+48) 508 91 88 85. Open 13:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-19:00. TRUCKARNIA FOOD TRUCK PARK Though lacking the constant buzz of Skwer Judah, the success of this gravel food truck lot is certainly secure thanks to its tourist-friendly location across from Galicia Jewish Museum; we actually prefer it for being cleaner (less pigeons!) and more chill. You never know what kind of unique ethnic food you’ll find here, and it also features Al Medina - Kraków’s only Moroccan-Tunisian restaurant - in a brick and mortar locale at the back; as such, Truckarnia essentially functions as the restaurant’s garden (part of which is heated in winter), where they offer beer, cocktails, hot drinks and also shisha.QL‑8, ul. Dajwór 21. Open 12:00-21:30. B6 92

FRENCH ZAZIE BISTRO This casual Kazimierz eatery is the closest thing Kraków has to a true Parisian bistro - complete with classic set meals (appetiser, entree, dessert) for an affordable 31zł (Tue-Fri only), cheese soufflé, fantastic crème brûlée and large slices of quiche. Set over two levels, the ground floor tries its luck at looking like a Parisian sidewalk terrace with a wall-length mural of France’s famous phallus, interior streetlights and even a candy-striped roll-out canopy over one table; head to the cellar for a more romantic atmosphere of candlelight and wine racks. With the head chef racking up culinary awards, this is a great place to experience outstanding French cuisine without a whiff of snobbery, and an excellent value for your money. Make a reservation.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 34, tel. (+48) 500 41 08 29, www.zaziebistro. pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Mon 17:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:0024:00. €€. 6

GEORGIAN SMAKI GRUZJI Slyly tucked away in Kazimierz (presumably where proRussian separatists won’t be able to find it), this modest Georgian eatery is actually one of the city’s hidden gems. Enjoy Eurasian dishes like roasted pork and lamb, stuffed grape leaves, Georgian meat dumplings (khinkali), khachapuri, traditional kharcho soup, and baked salmon, plus plenty of Georgian wine for only 10zł/glass, or starting from 44zł/bottle. The menu is admittedly meat-heavy, but fear not - there are also vegan and vegetarian dishes like the eggplant rolls with walnut-garlic puree. Delicious, ridiculously affordable and basically the perfect ethnic food experience, gather some friends together and enjoy your own supra the Georgian tradition of social feasting.QJ‑8, ul. Dietla 33 (entrance from ul. Augustiańska), tel. (+48) 883 43 34 23, www.smaki-gruzji.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. T

INDIAN INDIA MASALA As a mainstay anchoring Mały Rynek, this authentic effort from the same team behind Kraków’s top Indian eatery features popular patio seating and a classy, colourful interior infused with the scent of cardamom from the kitchen and sweet tobacco from the exotic hookah bar in the basement. The name may be India Masala, but the menu represents a wide range of regions across India with delicious dishes well-explained in English and wellpresented in traditional metal bowls.QJ‑5, Mały Rynek 2-3, tel. (+48) 12 421 47 56, www.indiamasala.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. €€. 6

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Restaurants

ALCHEMIA OD KUCHNI An extension of the legendary bar of the same name, Alchemia od Kuchni serves a concise menu of eclectic eats, including sharing platters for both carnivores and herbivores, burgers, mussels and more. Open late and also open early, the simple, white tile and brick aesthetic is reminiscent of NYC or Copenhagen’s meatpacking districts, and the service is light years ahead of the bar next door. Rather than just cashing in on the location and crowds, the team behind Od Kuchnia obviously cares, making it possibly our favourite thing about Alchemia these days.QK‑8, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 882 04 42 99, www. odkuchni.com. Open 09:00-22:00; Mon 09:00-21:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00-23:00. €€. 6 BUNKIER CAFE This veteran crossover venue - essentially an enormous year-round terrace on the Planty - continues to be the same perfect place for an early morning paper read, afternoon coffee and cigarette, after-work drink, casual first date, conversational English lesson, or people-watching piwo that it has been since we first published this guide. In addition to good coffee and cakes, however, Bunkier has gone bistro and now offers some of the best budget eats in the area. Drop in for breakfast until 12:00, after which tuck in to tasty burgers, bagel sandwiches, fish and chips, salads and more. As a result, we spend more time there now than ever before.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 3A, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 85, www.bunkiercafe.pl. Open 09:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-24:00. €€. XB 6

भ

D IA

Essentially a catch-all term for restaurants that can’t be classified as specialising in any one particular type of cuisine, our International section includes restaurants whose menus skip through several types of cuisine, or who serve what you might otherwise call contemporary ‘European cuisine.’The latter includes the authorial menus of the head chefs at some of the best restaurants in town, which are included here.

INTERNATIONAL

रा त का स्वा

द

INDUS TANDOOR Kraków’s oldest Indian restaurant, Indus Tandoor essentially set a new, higher standard for the city’s ethnic eateries when it opened in the Old Town way back in 1998. Now they’ve moved with their faithful clientele into a large, historic cellar space just off of ul. Floriańska. Lit by lanterns that cast a canopy of constellations on the walls, the new space is more modern, minimal and fancy, but stops well short of being showy. The kitchen, staffed with Indian chefs, still delivers the best food of its kind in town. Try the business lunch specials (Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00, 18.50zł) for a fantastic value and variety. Find a second Indus Tandoor at ul. Starowiślna 36 (K-7).QJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 18, tel. (+48) 12 432 50 86, www. indus.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€. T6

M AS A

Mały Rynek 2-3, 31-041 Krakow

reservations +48 12 4214756, mail: manager@indiamasala.pl

www.indiamasala.pl

THE BEST INDIAN CUISINE IN TOWN

We invite you to enjoy our original Indian dishes. Catering service available. ul. św. Tomasza 18, +48 12 432 50 86 ul. Starowiślna 36, +48 12 423 22 82 www.indus.pl, indus@indus.pl Open 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00

Restaurants HEALTHY EATS

Chimera’s winter garden.

CHIMERA SALAD BAR Sealed off from the elements, this gorgeous courtyard buffet overflows with ambience year round. Full of potted plants, natural sunlight and surrealistic murals, Chimera’s popular salad bar may be the most pleasant budget dining environment in town. Overwhelmingly vegetarian, while it might not be the best food in town, it is fast, cheap and exceedingly easy for foreigners simply say ‘proszę’ and point at your pick of the salads, quiche, stuffed vegetables and more. Recommended. QI‑5, ul. Św. Anny 3, tel. (+48) 12 292 12 12, www. chimera.com.pl. Open 09:00-22:00. €. TUB6 FRANKIE’S We’re not ones to sign on for the latest health fads (until binge drinking becomes an acknowledged ‘cleanse diet’), but this trendy, modern juice bar is a breath of fresh air in smoggy Kraków. Choose from a variety of juice and shake concoctions (like the ‘Green Sky’ cocktail made from spinach, pineapple and apple, which every second person orders), or create your own from the assortment of fresh fruit and veggies on hand. This is hardly a headquarters just for joggers and yoga instructors, however. Frankie’s achieves mass appeal with free wifi, delicious coffee, sandwiches and salads in addition to their hangover cures.QJ‑6, ul. Stolarska 11, tel. (+48) 736 24 08 12, www.frankies.pl. Open 08:0019:00; Fri 08:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00. 6W VANILLA SKY The flagship restaurant of Art Hotel Niebieski, Vanilla Sky is one of the city’s only restaurants to use only certified organic ingredients, and the chef constructs a tantalising menu of Italian and Polish influenced fusion dishes that change with the seasons and will make you happily commit to the eco-craze. Set in the centre of a spacious dining room on the hotel’s third floor, the well-dressed tables circle a gorgeous grand piano on which evening concerts are performed Thu-Sat, as well as Sunday afternoons.QF‑8, ul. Flisacka 3 (Niebieski Art Hotel & Spa), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, www. vanilla-sky.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€. TUE 94

COPERNICUS Inside one of Kraków’s most exclusive hotels you’ll find one of its most exclusive restaurants, with high-class service inside an elegant gothic interior that features original frescoes. Copernicus is enthusiastically awarded each year, and its gourmet cuisine has been enjoyed by Nobel Prize winners (Miłosz, Szymborska) and political dignitaries (Vaclav Havel, Helmut Kohl) alike. The menu changes every month and is kept simple by Chef Marcin Filipkiewicz who offers a tasting menu of amazing seasonal flavours; choose between 5 (220zł), 7 (300zł) or 12 courses (430zł). At Copernicus you get what you pay for, making it easy to recommend for those on a royal budget.QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 34 21, www.copernicus.hotel.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. T FIORENTINA DOM POLSKI Located on a less hectic stretch of ul. Grodzka, this spacious restaurant serving contemporary European cuisine boasts a beautiful seasonal garden and outstanding interior that nicely balances rustic touches (exposed bricks, stripped wood panels) with gleaming silver lamp fixtures and mirrors. The house specialty is Florentine beefsteak, and the focus is various cuts of beef, but don’t miss the unique foie gras. Comfortably casual despite despite highly professional service and exquisite food, this is a fine choice for a relaxing and memorable meal near Wawel.QI‑7, ul. Grodzka 63, tel. (+48) 12 426 46 08, www.fiorentina.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€. TU KARAKTER Whatever the magic ingredient is for a successful restaurant, there’s little doubt that Karakter has it. The retro modern interior evoking Miro and Leger possesses a seemingly effortless panache and undeniable appeal. The authorial menu is full of daring dishes that will either make you squirm or salivate, including ostrich tartare, tripe, mussels served eight different ways, beef ribs in Guinness sauce, and his authorial ‘maczanka po krakowsku’ (a local pulled pork specialty). Foodies, especially those with buttery-sweet tastes, will likely be in heaven here. Ideal for a date with wine, the casually dressed staff will assist you in selecting, but make sure you’ve made a reservation if you want a table in this buzzy, ambitious restaurant. QK‑8, ul. Brzozowa 17, tel. (+48) 795 81 81 23. Open 12:00-23:00; Mon 17:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€. T6 KOLANKO NO. 6 One of Kazimierz’s most surprising venues, Kolanko’s lovely interior garden (heated in winter), quirky attic knickknacks, klezmer and Balkan tunes, all combine to create an escapist atmosphere well-appreciated by couples, laptoppers and loners like ourselves. Though known for their sweet and savoury crepes, the very cheap and totally eclectic menu includes everything from chicken satay and Thai curry, to Ethiopian lentils and Greek mousaka, plus cocktails, wine

Restaurants and local craft beer. Their popular 25zł breakfast buffet (served until 12:00) also offers tourists the quintessential Kazimierz atmosphere that most hotel restaurants can’t provide. Recommended.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 17, tel. (+48) 604 18 75 11, www.kolanko.net. Open 08:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-01:00. €. TB6 MALECON When it comes to real estate, this is some Kraków’s best, and it’s been used to great effect. Just metres from Wawel, Malecon is split between the ground floor and incredible year-round 6th floor roof terrace, which offers incredible views of the Royal Castle and Wisła River boulevards. Despite one of the most exclusive and exhilarating settings in town, the menu is a refreshingly affordable mix of modern European fare, including pasta dishes, fresh mussels and seafood, burgers and local traditional dishes, all excellently prepared and presented. Even if you’re already full of pierogi, how can you resist dropping in for a drink with these views?QI‑7, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. (+48) 12 423 18 43, www.malecon.pl. Open 07:00-23:00. €€. TB6 MIĘDZYMIASTOWA Gin lovers, beware - this is your lair. Aimed at Kraków’s growing upper-middle class, MM flaunts a now-familiar post-industrial upscale-urban interior with huge factory windows, two bars and an emphasis on pricey gin mixers and wine. There’s also a metropolitan menu of eats everything from gourmet breakfasts to pizza and pasta to burgers and beef steak. Although the menu is overpriced and lacks focus, the chefs clearly know what they’re doing. An attractive after-work drinks destination for Kraków’s young professionals, unless you’re a gin devotee, however, you’ll actually be here for the food.QG‑4, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10/7A, tel. (+48) 577 30 44 50. Open 09:0024:00; Sat 10:00-01:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. €€€. T6 NADWIŚLAŃSKA Incredibly popular at all hours, this buzzy ‘Vodka & Resto Bar’ in Podgórze is the current place to be seen in Kraków. In a smart, spacious post-industrial interior crammed with tiny tables and pulsing with house music, Nadwiślańska offers a wide range of eats - pizza, tapas, duck and more. The breakfast deals (served until 12:00), followed by lunch specials, are simply tough to beat, but it’s the drinks that make you check your watch and order one anyway. An array of infused vodkas can be had in their sodas, spritzers and outstanding signature cocktails, and the themed tasting boards present an opportunity to experience a range of exotic vodkas. Note that the kitchen closes at 23:00.QL‑9, ul. Nadwiślańska 5, tel. (+48) 698 60 57 00. Open 09:00-00:30. €€. TU6

Not listed here? Over 300 restaurant reviews online: krakow.inyourpocket.com 95

Restaurants NOTA RESTO BY TOMASZ LEŚNIAK Nota Resto is the varsity side of the new twin restaurant residence by Tomasz Leśniak - known to the public as official chef of the Polish men’s national football team (a position that apparently comes with name recognition in PL). Reassuringly devoid of celebrity football decor, Nota Resto’s smart, modern interior is a suitably subtle backdrop for the real focus here: the food. Informed by his experience serving star athletes, Leśniak’s truly original and excellent menu brings healthy, gluten-free dishes into the domain of fine dining, and reveals a real knack for re-imagining regional ingredients to create exotic flavours. We don’t watch footie, but we’re fans.QJ‑5, ul. Św Krzyża 17, tel. (+48) 517 81 88 51, www.notaresto.pl. Open 13:00-23:00. €€€. TE ORZO Literally a breath of fresh air in Zabłocie, Orzo has transformed this large industrial space into an urban oasis of big windows, green walls and potted plants that actually clean the air inside. The menu is an exciting, fusion-flecked affair full of fresh salad bowls, pasta, burgers, pizza and steaks, and the house orzo (rice-shaped pasta) adds colour to certain dishes to great effect. On weekends DJs dial up the atmosphere as upstarts from the start-up scene drink smoked cocktails and boozy infusions. Full of bright smiles and bouncy music, Orzo balances smart urbanity with joie de vivre in a way we didn’t realise we were missing until we stepped inside.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 4A, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 42, www.orzo.pl. Open 09:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-01:00. €€€. TU6 PLAC NOWY 1 Located in a new building buttressing Plac Nowy, this project has won over its initial detractors by adapting to its surroundings with elan, while subtly outclassing them. With a spacious modern high-ceilinged interior full of natural light and plant life, the main menu wanders across cuisines to follow recent food trends (fancy burgers, tempura), but includes uniquely modern takes on Polish classics as well, and they put a big emphasis on craft beer, offering regional beer tasting sets. Earning wide approval, this is arguably the nicest place to eat on Plac Nowy.QK‑8, Pl. Nowy 1, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 00, www.placnowy1.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Thu, Fri 12:00-02:00; Sat 09:00-02:00; Sun 09:00-24:00. €€€. TU SZARA Enviably located right on the market square, Szara’s reputation as one of the best restaurants in town hasn’t wavered over the years and if you’re looking for a place to impress guests or treat yourself to a special ‘last night in town meal,’ this is a sure bet. Gorgeous, painted ceiling arches, crisp linen and outstanding service create an atmosphere of complete elegance, but Szara manages to avoid the stuffiness suffered by other venues of this ilk. Case in point: their modern and casual bar just next door is a smart place to start the day (breakfast served 08:0012:00), or enjoy a cocktail in the evening.QJ‑6, Rynek Główny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 69, www.szara.pl. Open 08:00-22:00. €€€. UB 96

SZARA KAZIMIERZ Opening after its sister establishment on the Rynek, the second Szara achieved local legend status just as quickly. What makes it so special is not the convenient location on Szeroka, nor the swift and bubbly staff, but the food: nowhere in the city can you eat so well for so little. This is top cuisine - try the weekday specials chalked up on the blackboard - yet it comes in at bargain prices. Simple, affordable and very cheerful, all of Kraków should be like this.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12 429 12 19, www. szarakazimierz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. TU6 TRZY RYBKI Hotel Stary won an interior design award in 2007 and the interiors of its award-winning restaurants are no less aweinspiring. While Rybki Nove occupies the newer part of the hotel, Trzy Rybki deftly balances modern style with the expertly preserved details of this ancient building. Serving fine Modern European cuisine with a Polish twist, the menu changes like the seasons - or with them, rather - meaning a steady effort from the kitchen to use the freshest ingredients. Favoured by high-flyers and local business honchos who have been regulars for years, this is a Kraków gem.QI‑5, ul. Szczepańska 5 (Hotel Stary), tel. (+48) 12 384 08 06, www.likusrestauracje.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. U6 ZAKŁADKA BISTRO DE CRACOVIE Located in a restored Podgórze tenement just over Bernatek footbridge, this classy bistro - which tackles French delicacies and traditional Polish dishes with equal respect and aplomb - strikes the perfect balance of modern elegance, exciting cuisine and below market prices, resulting in its lasting popularity and steadfast presence in the Michelin guide. A perfect date destination, from the moment you step inside seemingly everything - from the sharp black, white and red interior to the excellent food and outstanding wine becomes an aphrodisiac; make a reservation now.QK‑10, ul. Józefińska 2 (entrance from ul. Brodzińskiego), tel. (+48) 12 442 74 42, www.zakladkabistro.pl. Open 16:0021:30; Fri 16:00-22:30; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-21:00. From March open 13:00-21:30; Fri 13:00-22:30; Sat 12:0022:30; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. T

ITALIAN BIANCA This small Italian bistro next to St. Mary’s owns a big reputation and strong pedigree courtesy of the local dining dynasty behind Szara Gęś and Boccanera. No surprise then that the scallops are delicious, and though the sides (order one) are almost as large as the pasta dishes, the value is still incredible. Close scrutiny of the interior reveals perfectionism in each element (don’t fail to notice the hand-painted ceiling), but leaves big impressions to the kitchen situated in full view at the end of the intimate room, where the professionalism of the chefs is on full display. QJ‑5, Pl. Mariacki 2, tel. (+48) 782 29 77 15, www. biancaristorante.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. €€€. TW

RESTAURACJA RYBKI NOVE Polish Cuisine

9 SzczepaÅ&#x201E;ska Street, Krakow www.stary.hotel.com.pl trzy-rybki@hotel.com.pl

www.hotel.com.pl

Restaurants WINTER WARM-UPS There are a number of ways to survive Kraków’s cold and damp, and we’ve tried them all, from dressing up like an onion to staying in bed and refusing to get dressed at all. Of all the methods known, however, none rewards as much as alcohol, and we list the most essential local elixirs for staying warm during Kraków’s cold months below.

‘GRZANE PIWO’

That’s hot beer in local layman’s terms – essentially a frothing hot pint of lager flavoured with artificial syrup, clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices. To some it’s an acquired taste, to others an early Christmas present, and to others still an utter profanity. Regardless, ‘grzane piwo’ is an invention everyone should try at least once. There are a few things to consider, however. First is the type of syrup you want, as you will be asked: ‘imbirowy’ (ginger) or ‘malinowy’ (raspberry). This choice seems to be almost universally made along gender lines, with the fact that choosing raspberry results in a pint of warm pink beer certainly playing a factor. Secondly, it takes a while (5-10 minutes) to properly heat the drink without exploding it, so prepare to wait and be patient. Lastly, and this is important: there is a tendency to immediately stab a straw into the glass, mix in the syrup at the bottom and begin drinking. If the beverage is too hot, however, this will result in it erupting all over you. A common rookie mistake - which some twisted bartenders wait for with relish - this can be avoided by simply letting your drink cool off slightly before testing its reaction to the straw. Don’t take this advice lightly; you really don’t want beer foam all over your lap.

‘GRZANIEC’

‘Grzaniec’ is shorthand for Grzaniec Galicyjski - a popular regional brand of red wine which is almost exclusively used to make hot mulled wine. Keep your eyes peeled for barrel-shaped stands selling this popular drink on the Rynek during autumn and winter markets. If you enjoy drinking it in public, you’ll be delighted to discover you can buy it in almost any alcohol shop (or at the airport) and easily prepare it at home as well.

‘KRUPNIK NA GORĄCO’

Essentially the Polish hot toddy, this is the quintessential warm-up drink. ‘Krupnik na gorąco’ just means hot Krupnik, which any bartender in Kraków knows means a healthy shot of honey vodka (Krupnik), plus hot water, cloves and wintry spices, and slices of lemon and/or orange. The perfect drink for people who shouldn’t be drinking, if you’ve got a sore throat or are feeling a bit under the weather, hot Krupnik is the appropriate remedy. 98

BOCCANERA There’s a comfortable familiarity to Boccanera, which neatly slides in at the top of Kraków’s Italian dining hierarchy. We’ve grown happily accustomed to the warm, multi-textured interior, the open kitchen and the well-trained staff. The menu is a largely familiar line-up of simple pasta dishes, seafood and mussels, but our parpadella con manzo was perfect, and we can also vouch for the pizzas. With an absolutely voluminous interior well-suited for large groups, there’s a prevalent mood of merriment throughout, and no denying the value. Though comfort trumps excitement here, they’ve got their formula down, and Kraków is fortunate to have another Italian restaurant of this calibre. Breakfast available from 10:00 till noon.QJ‑5, ul. Tomasza 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 17 08, www.boccanera.pl. Open 10:0023:00. €€€. UE INCREDIBILE Located on the ground floor of Kraków’s modern The Loft hotel, this savvy pizzeria strictly adheres to Italian tradition and ingredients, while boasting the city’s best pizza oven, made by Marana Forni (from Italy, natch). The result is pizza of such superior quality and taste that Incredibile secured a nomination in the 2020 World Luxury Restaurant Awards. Not only that, but after hosting the 2019 Polish Pizza Open, their menu features signature pies from the world’s foremost pizza masters. And it’s not just pies; there’s also offer soups, salads, salmon, pasta, desserts, delicious coffee and a fullyloaded bar that stays open all night, serving fresh Tyskie from the tank and signature cocktails. With a smart, postindustrial design, casual atmosphere and superlative pizza, we bow before the masters.QK‑6, ul. Dietla 113, tel. (+48) 883 53 97 77, www.incredibilepizzeria.com. Open 24-hours. €€. B N’ PIZZA Goodness gracious, Nolio’s new venture near Tytano is even better than their first. With a winning formula for the city’s best pizza - carefully selected Italian products, and perfectly chewy Neapolitan dough scorched for one minute in a wood-fired oven - N’ Pizza raises its game by turning the same discerning standard to its drinks, offering a tantalising range of top shelf proseccos, Italian wines and bubbly spritzers. The interior is bright, modern and casual with full-length windows and an open kitchen, but it all comes down to the pizza itself, which is elevated to gourmet status and maybe the best quick meal in town.QH‑5, ul. Rajska 3 (entrance from ul. Dolnych Młynów), tel. (+48) 12 262 84 95, www. npizza.pl. Open 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-23:00. €€. PTU6 PIZZATOPIA This casual and cleverly branded pizza joint on bustling ul. Szewska lets you ‘Build Your Own’ pie for a flat 25zł with no limit on ingredients. Choose between the classic or multigrain version of their light, chewy crust, and then

Restaurants from four base sauces, seven different types of cheese (including vegan mozzarella), six kinds of meat, over a dozen veggies, and a dozen finishing sauces. Fast and fired for less than 3 minutes, the menu also includes a few of their own creations, fresh salads, craft beers, homemade cookies and their own sodas. A brilliant concept that’s love at first bite, there’s a second location at Plac Nowy 4 (K-8).QI‑5, ul. Szewska 22, tel. (+48) 577 06 51 65, www.pizzatopia.com. Open 11:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-02:00. €. B6

KLEZMER

JEWISH DAWNO TEMU NA KAZIMIERZU (ONCE UPON A TIME IN KAZIMIERZ) From the outside this venue is disguised to look like a row of early 20th century trade shops and is decorated with awnings relating to the area’s Jewish heritage. Things are no less colourful on the inside with mannequins, sewing machines and carpenters’ work surfaces adorning the interiors. A great attempt at capturing the old Kazimierz spirit, and a must-visit for those tracing the district’s past, enjoy live klezmer, folk or ethnic music every evening except Fridays and Saturdays (check their FB page for details).QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 17, www.szeroka1. com. Open 10:00-23:00. €€€. UE6 KLEZMER HOIS Located in an old former mikveh - a ritual Jewish bath house - on ul. Szeroka, this is one of Kazimierz’s most well-established restaurants, and a portal into the dusty sepia days of pre-war Poland. Serving traditional Jewish Galician dishes from the 19th century, the restaurant generally follows kosher rules, though there’s no rabbinical supervision. Incredibly popular klezmer concerts (35zł) take place each evening during dinner at 20:00 - keeping the crowds amused and the wine flowing.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. (+48) 12 411 12 45, www.klezmer.pl. Open 07:0021:30. €€. E

MIDDLE EASTERN HAMSA In a district whose eateries still treat Jewishness as a faded sepia part of the past, here’s a restaurant free of nostalgic p re-war décor and wooden roof fiddlers, where ‘Jewish cuisine’ doesn’t mean traditional East European fare. Bright, modern and possessing a beautiful seasonal garden, Hamsa offers a range of authentic Middle Eastern specialties in a casual environment. The mezze sets are perfect for sharing, and not only give you a chance to sample delicious starters like the humus, babaganoush and muhammarah (our fave), but are also beautifully presented in hand-painted dish ware. Fairly-priced and generally a breath of fresh air, Hamsa is a delight.QK‑8, ul. Szeroka 2 / ul. Miodowa 41, tel. (+48) 515 15 01 45, www.hamsa.pl. Open 10:00-22:30; Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 09:00-23:00; Sun 09:00-22:30. €€€. T6

Klezmer in Isaac Synagogue

photo by Kamila Łabędzka

Kraków is a hotbed for klezmer music, and attending a concert of this energetic, Eastern-infused folk music is a popular option for tourists. Growing out of the musical tradition of the Ashkenazi Jews of Eastern Europe, the genre was popularised in the 18th century by musical troupes who performed Yiddish dance tunes at weddings and other celebrations. Originating from Jewish devotional music, klezmer evolved significantly at the beginning of the 20th century when it reached the United States via Jewish immigrants, who began to incorporate American jazz music into the sound. After waning in popularity, the genre experienced a revival in the 1970s and 80s as contemporary musicians in the US and Europe were drawn to its strange and forgotten sounds and began investigating its roots. Klezmer’s Polish revival occurred in the 1990s, with its nucleus in Kraków around now-legendary bands Kroke and Bester Quartet (formerly The Cracow Klezmer Band), who brought new energy and interest to the genre, inspiring a new generation of players. Typical instruments in a klezmer ensemble might include violin, clarinet, accordion, trumpet, trombone, double bass or cimbalon (similar to a hammered dulcimer). Today there are dozens of klezmer bands and ensembles performing regularly in the cafes, restaurants, museums and synagogues of Kazimierz - the city’s former Jewish district. Ironically, very few of these bands are Jewish, but mostly composed of Polish Catholic graduates of the Kraków Musical Academy who view their sound as Jewish-inspired world music. Nonetheless, klezmer concerts have essentially become incorporated into the city’s Jewish heritage tourism and seeing a performance is a fine way to spend an evening. Concerts occur almost daily in the Jewish restaurants on Kazimierz’s ulica Szeroka; for example Klezmer Hois and Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu. 99

Restaurants PIEROGI Although they’re served almost everywhere, here are the best and most noteworthy places for pierogi in Kraków. In additon to those below, there’s also Przypiecek (p.104), which stays open 24-hours. BISTRO DURUM With so many places catering to gluten-free diets, Durum boldly does the opposite, offering a concise menu of fresh, gluten-filled pasta and pierogi, salads and soups. While the pasta dishes are delicious, it’s the pierogi that really distinguish themselves with unorthodox fillings like red lentils, pumpkin, ginger, chili and goat cheese, or wild boar with pear salsa and chocolate cranberry sauce. Among the best dumplings in town, our only regret is that the portions (6 pierogi) are so small. Durum’s colourful, modern interior is dominated by the long work counter where pierogi are pinched together before your eyes, but there’s also seasonal seating on the square - perfect for a spritzer or craft beer in the sunshine.QK‑10, Rynek Podgórski 9, tel. (+48) 12 263 80 30. Open 12:00-22:00; closed Mon. €. T6 PIEROŻKI U VINCENTA A great place to introduce yourself to this national staple, Vincent’s versions rise above the ordinary. Though it may be impossible to ‘reinvent’ a food as versatile as the pierogi, this veteran establishment has tried with apple and liver, minced lamb, chicken and spinach, and broccoli and feta among the 30 different options. Get a mixed-batch to share with a friend, and top it off with your choice of a variety of sauces and extras. Popular, cheap and cheerful (thanks to a sunflowered, starry-nighted Van Gogh interior), takeaway may be your best option at peak feed times. QJ‑8, ul. Bożego Ciała 12, tel. (+48) 506 80 63 04. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. 6 U STASI If you’re looking for a truly authentic local dining experience, you simply can’t do better than U Stasi. This tiny, inconspicuous cafeteria tucked in a courtyard (past the pizza place) serves simple home-cooked Polish food at shockingly cheap prices. Being family-owned (80 years and counting) with ‘table service’ and English, French, Ukrainian and German menus generally eliminates it from contention as a true ‘milk bar,’ but those are about the only differences. Impossible for groups, if you can find a place to sit at all, you’ll be doing it in silence at a table of students, pensioners, professors, and homeless people. The plum pierogi are delicious and the experience is simply priceless. Arrive before 14:00 to avoid eating the last thing left on the menu.QJ‑5, ul. Mikołajska 16, tel. (+48) 12 421 50 84. Open 12:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. €. 100

POLISH ART RESTAURANT Winning a 2018 World Luxury Restaurant Award for best Polish Cuisine in the world, such outrageous praise usually precedes disappointment, but Art Restaurant makes and sustains an immediate impression of splendour (enormous crystal chandelier, grand piano). In warm weather, the primary dining area is the courtyard garden full of plants and lanterns, which lighten the formality of the five-star service; in winter the historical ambiance of the 16th century building ably suffices. The wine cellar is exemplary; the food is Polish at its most modern and innovative, and the best way to experience it is to splash out for one of their 5-, 7or 9- course tasting menus. Is this the best dining experience in town? Do yourself a favour, make a reservation, and decide for yourself.QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. (+48) 537 87 21 93, www.artrestauracja.com. Open 13:00-23:00. €€€€. E BOTTIGLIERIA 1881 Discreetly hidden off Plac Wolnica, this small, intimate wine bar exudes class and taste with a sharp decór of stonework and timber, an open kitchen, VIP service, and an expertly stocked wine cellar with over 450 vintages. The mercifully concise menu of mouth-watering modern Polish dishes changes regularly, accompanied by deft recommendations from the sommelier, and 5- or 7-course tasting menus are offered from 17:00. A great place for business or courtship, Bottiglieria received an ‘Award of Excellence’ from Wine Spectator magazine, and also a top local award for their cuisine. Hardly a surprise, since there are few venues in Kraków as beautifully elegant and unique as this one.QK‑9, ul. Bocheńska 5, tel. (+48) 660 66 17 56, www.1881.com. pl. Open 17:00-22:30; closed Mon, Sun. €€€. BROWAR LUBICZ Founded in 1840, this historic brewery has reinvented itself as an upscale brew-pub, replete with a snazzy logo, stylish post-industrial design, door greeters, sports on the tele, a full card of local fare, and signature craft ales brewed onsite - up to 12 at any one time. The kitchen uses local and seasonal ingredients to conjure some delicious takes on regional specialties (beer-braised pork hock, ribs, Kraków pulled pork), and they even offer their own honey-roasted wheat malt as a beer snack. Visit Mon-Fri between 12:00 and 16:00 to take advantage of their daily lunch special (21zł).QL‑5, ul. Lubicz 17J, tel. (+48) 786 11 80 84, www. browar-lubicz.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:30; Fri 12:0023:30; Sat 13:00-23:30; Sun 13:00-20:00. €€. TU6 CZERWONE KORALE Moving from Sławkowska to this charming old townhouse near Mały Rynek, Czerwone Korale (Red Beads) has kept the namesake wicker-wreath chandeliers wound with bright ribbons and beads, but toned down the folk decor a touch, letting the glass bottle windows and timber beam ceilings speak for themselves. Plenty of colour comes from the kitchen, which serves all the Polish standards, but with some creative innovations and a flair for presentation. There

Restaurants

Polish

Restaurant

Traditional Polish food in modern form

Open 09.00 - 22.00, Fri-Sat 09.00 - 24.00 ul. Mikołajska 14, Kraków, tel. 12 430-61-08, brand11 czerwonekorale

are plenty of vegetarian dishes and breakfast until 12:00, after which 19zł lunch deals last until 16:00 (Mon-Fri only). Overall, the quality of the food makes Czerwone Korale not only a pleasant surprise, but also a great value.QJ‑5, ul. Mikołajska 14, tel. (+48) 12 430 61 08. Open 09:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-24:00. €€. T FILIPA 18 FOOD WINE ART This small restaurant inside the gorgeously renovated Hotel Indigo offers an intimate gourmet dining experience that actually surpasses its rather modest setting thanks to awardwinning head chef Marcin Sołtys. At work in plain view from the open kitchen, Sołtys has cooked for celebrities and diplomats, and the fact that his culinary prowess is now available to anyone in off the street (including you...?) is really quite incredible. Sourced from the Stary Kleparz farmers’ market just around the corner, Sołtys’ concise signature menu transforms traditional Polish tastes into modern delicacies, each presented as its own work of art. Try the tartare, and if you have 3 hours to indulge, go for the full 7-course tasting menu which offers enticements from throughout the entire menu.QJ‑4, ul. Św. Filipa 18, tel. (+48) 12 300 30 33, www.filipa18.com. Open 06:30-23:00; Sat, Sun 07:00-23:00. €€€. T

LOCAL FOOD TOURS link bit.ly/KrakowFoodTour

KAZIMIR RESTAURANT & BAR In the very heart of Kazimierz, this vast named venue offers plenty of space for all comers with large, stylish and separate areas for the restaurant and bar (open till 24:00), a quiet, charming courtyard garden in the back, and even seating along the bustling sidewalk. Open earlier than elsewhere, one of the neighbourhood’s best breakfast spreads is served until 12:00, after which lunch specials (weekdays only 12:00-18:00) are featured alongside a menu of Polish and European dishes (local sour rye soup, pierogi, steak, duck breast with apple cider puree), which includes a special section for kids. Come hungry or bring a second stomach because the portions are huge. You can catch a match in their bar, and watch for concerts and other events as well.QJ‑8, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. (+48) 690 62 42 95, www.spatz.pl/restauracja. Open 07:00-22:00. €€. T6 L CONCEPT 13 BAR & RESTAURANT Flagship restaurant of the exclusive Likus brand, this upscale eatery in Pasaż 13 serves modern Polish cuisine with Italian influences. Drawing from the exclusive vintages (served by the glass or bottle) and local delicacies of the adjacent delicatessen and wine shop, the dining room features a contemporary open kitchen and minimalist menu that uses fresh seasonal ingredients to create rich, signature dishes. Dining in the cellar of a shopping mall has never been this classy.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 13 (Pasaż 13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 12, www.pasaz-13.pl. Open 12:0022:00; Sun 12:00-19:00. €€€. U 101

Restaurants MIÓD I WINO (HONEY & WINE) This warm, jovial restaurant offers medieval feasting fare inside the setting of a Polish nobleman’s house, where the timber walls are covered with muskets, antlers and suits of armour, and the plates are piled high with meat. A good choice for groups and families looking for a fully immersive Polish food experience, the flair of the service, quality of the food and force of the live music playing Tue-Sat evenings create a fun atmosphere that’s completely worth being in. Or drop by from 12:00-16:00 to take advantage of their daily lunch offer - a threecourse meal of soup, entree and dessert, plus kompot (chilled fruit tea) for 28zł.QJ‑4, ul. Sławkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95, www.miodiwino.pl. Open 12:0022:00. €€€. UE MIÓD MALINA (HONEY RASPBERRY) This cheerful restaurant comes with raspberries painted on the walls and a pleasing glow that illuminates dark evenings. There are floral touches aplenty here, lending an enchanted fairy tale atmosphere, while the menu mixes up the best of Polish and Italian cooking, plus breakfast each day until 12:00. With long standing as one of the best values and top restaurants in town, book ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka views afforded by the raised window-side seating.QJ‑6, ul. Grodzka 40, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 11, www.miodmalina.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. €€€. TUB

“Pod Aniołami – Under the Angels” is an extraordinary place. With its historical 13th-century interiors and brilliant cuisine based on Polish culinary traditions it brings you closer to the medieval city. This place is famed for marinated meats grilled and smoked on hardwood from beech trees, and for other old Polish dishes. Restauracja „Pod Aniołami” ul. Grodzka 35, 31-001 Kraków www.podaniolami.pl e-mail: restauracja@podaniolami.pl tel.:+48/12 421-39-99 / PodAniolamiRestaurant

102

NAKRYTO This modest family restaurant trades on Polish hospitality and simple, traditional food made from ‘the fat of the land.’ With a menu of regional delicasies ‘as Babcia made it’ - if your Babcia was a master chef plucking only the finest fresh ingredients from the market each morning - this is a great place to try upmarket examples of local specialties like barszcz, żurek, rolada śląska (Silesian roulade) and maczanka at below market prices. Get a solid grounding in Polish vodka with the tasting set, or digest with one of their homemade tinctures, including horseradish or blackthorn flavours. The perfect place for family dinners out on the town, or introducing out-of-towners to the national cuisine.QK‑8, ul. Beera Meiselsa 14, tel. (+48) 726 72 71 71, www.nakryto.pl. Open 13:00-22:00. €€. T6 POD ANIOŁAMI (UNDER THE ANGELS) One of the city’s most historic and charming restaurants, Pod Aniołami offers a quintessentially Cracovian encounter with royal medieval Polish cuisine. Filled with historical artefacts, this cavernous, candle-lit, almost monastic haven is incredibly warm and inviting considering that some of its 13th century dining areas are two levels underground. The extensive menu is an overview of everything that was enjoyed by the Polish nobility in days of old, including special recipes made with actual gold - an homage to the building’s past as a goldsmithy. One of Kraków’s richest restaurant experiences and highly recommended.QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 35, tel. (+48) 12 421 39 99, www.podaniolami. pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€. 6

Restaurants POD WAWELEM Huge portions of Polish fare cascade off the steel pans and wooden boards they’re served on, while uniformed staff weave between the benches serving frothing steins of beer. Great for groups and families, kids have their own large rumpus area, while the grown-ups soak up the beer hall atmosphere shouting over energetic live folk music. Litre beers are encouraged and halfprice on Mondays, and there’s a handy ‘vomitorium’ in the men’s room - i.e, two enormous steel basins for those suffering from over-consumption. Now a second location in the Cloth Hall (Restauracja Sukiennice).QJ‑7, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 23 36, www. podwawelem.eu. Open 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. €€. TUBE QUALITA RESTAURANT In addition to an opportunistic location next door to the ICE Congress Centre, the Q Hotel’s Qualita restaurant has another ace up its sleeve - local lad and head chef Michał Góra. Though the modern interior is typical of most hotel restaurants, Góra’s mouth-watering menu of contemporary Polish and European dishes is wholly original, not to mention healthy (they have their own dietician). Changing regularly, emphasis is put on only the freshest, most high-quality local ingredients, plus Polish meads and local craft beers. There are savings to be had on daily promotions, but in Qualita you can bank on a delicious meal.QH‑9, ul. Wygrana 6 (Q Hotel Plus Kraków), tel. (+48) 12 333 40 20, www.qhotels.pl. Open 12:30-23:00. €€€. TU

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SCANDALE ROYAL With bow-tied waiters, a colour palette of greys and pale blues and a classy art deco design that literally evokes an antiquated vodka label, Scandale Royal captures the aesthetic and atmosphere of 1930s Poland, when socialising took place over long hours between plates of cold tapas and toasts of clear liquids. The menu revives old regional recipes, lending a modern touch to classic Polish dishes like beef tartare, sour rye soup (żurek) and pierogi, while pairing them with an expansive list of high quality distilled alcohols (they have over 80 vodkas!), plus signature cocktails. A great place for group feasts, the interior also features a unique balcony level offering great views of Plac Szczepański.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 512 30 84 93, www.scandale.pl. Open 07:30-24:00; Fri, Sat 07:3002:00. €€€. T SMAQ BRASSERIE Q Hotel’s modern restaurant is a place to get acquainted with Polish staples like kotlet schabowy (the famed breaded pork cutlet), sour rye soup with white sausage and multiple types of pierogi, while those with more international tastes can choose from pastas, burgers and steaks. It’s also the best food you’ll get in the area - alternatives include IKEA meatballs, McD’s, and the shopping mall food court. Like all Q Hotels, SmaQ has an in-house dietician, whose recommendations can be found in the menu as well.

+48 512 308 493 PL. SZCZEPAŃSKI 2 /scandaleroyal 103

Restaurants LATE NIGHT EATS When it comes to late night drunk food, Kraków has you covered. You’ll find kebab stands up and down popular nightlife thoroughfares like ul. Floriańska (J5) and ul. Szewska (I-5), but PL’s most popular street food is the ‘zapiekanka’ (p.79) and the best place to get one is Kazimierz’s Plac Nowy (K-8), whose food hatches generally stay open until at least 02:00. Of course there’s also Kraków’s famous sidewalk sausage stand (K-6, p.79), and the 24hr vodka and herring bars (p.81) when all else fails. GOSPODA KOKO The real virtue of Koko is revealed after midnight when you want a civilised sit down meal without the company of tzatziki dribbling drunks. Serving generous portions of stodgy Polish classics like pierogi and fried cutlets for the same price as a kebab deep into drinking hours, this is a handy alternative for anyone looking to fortify their stomach without making a mess of their shirtfront.QI‑6, ul. Gołębia 8, tel. (+48) 12 430 21 01, www.gospodakoko.pl. Open 08:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-03:00. €. T6 PAPITO’S Attached to the Teatro Cubano music club (p.113), Papitos offers bender-sustaining 4-bite burgers (50g patties, 5-7zł), fries, cheap beer and mojitos in a lively atmosphere of salsa music and students. Solid food is a necessity, after all, and Papitos allows you to order only as much as you need, and get it into your system quickly without slowing your alcohol intake. Tasty and cheap, have a seat outside in the passageway to feel like you’re still at the centre of the party.QI‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 10, tel. (+48) 660 56 21 00. Open 09:0003:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-04:00. €. XSW PRZYPIECEK This no-fuss all-night pierogi bar offers a surprisingly large range of stuffings. Sure, it’s not as fast as a kebab, but it’s a better value, better quality, and they even have tables to sit at. At the end of a night of clubbing, there are few better places for filling your stomach. QJ‑4, ul. Sławkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95. Open 24-hours. €. ŚLEDŹ U FRYZJERA This offshoot of Ambasada Śledzia is our favourite vodka and herring bar, particularly when it comes to food. Serving pickled herring (śledź, 10zł) in almost as many ways as there are flavours of vodka to wash it down (5zł), they also offer hot dishes, soups and casseroles. Though it gets crazier and more crowded as the night wears on, this is one of the best for a late night feed, and right in the centre.QJ‑6, ul. Stolarska 5. Open 12:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-06:00. B 104

Breakfast is served bright and early, starting at 06:30 on weekdays, 07:00 on weekends; daily specials of soup, drink and entree for only 29zł run from 13:00 to 22:00, and there are other daily promotions in play as well.Qul. Radzikowskiego 142 (Q Hotel Kraków), tel. (+48) 12 333 41 41, www.qhotels.pl. Open 13:00-22:00. €€€. TU SZARA GĘŚ Inside a historic market square townhouse, ‘The Grey Goose’ has established itself as one of the city’s best places for an exquisite, romantic dinner or special event. The kitchen has carved out a unique niche, offering innovative modern dishes borne out of Polish tradition, with an inclination towards poultry. In fact, go ahead and make your entire meal goose-themed if you can - from the chilled foie gras with white chocolate appetiser (amazing!), to the glazed goose leg, to the signature ‘Szara Gęs’ dessert. Actually resembling an oversized goose egg in a nest, this last invention is so over-the-top you have to love it. As for the interior, it’s hardly grey, but rather bursting with colour after a recent remodelling.QI‑6, Rynek Główny 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 63 11, www.szarages.com. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. TU ZALIPIANKI A winning project from model turned celebrity chef Ewa Wachowicz, Zalipianki offers contemporary Polish food in a relaxing environment at affordable prices. The feminine interiors feature soft lighting and elaborate hand-painted floral patterns on every wall, before opening into an absolutely lovely year-round terrace right on the Planty. The perfect place to take the parents, the menu turns familiar Polish tastes into something exciting and new - try the creamy sour cabbage soup with bacon and caraway oil, or Ms. Ewa’s version of ‘maczanka’ - the local take on pulled pork. There’s also a large wine list and selection of local alcohols, including their own house nalewki (tinctures) - finish your meal with a shot of quince or black currant liqueur.QI‑5, ul. Szewska 24, tel. (+48) 502 84 55 79, www.zalipianki.pl. Open 09:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 09:0024:00. €€. TB6

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN BHAJAN CAFE This strictly vegan/vegetarian Indian restaurant has developed a devoted following of folks who aren’t drawn here for dietary reasons as much as for the delicious food. The extensive menu is a familiar list of flavourful sauces, dals and tandoori dishes with paneer, tofu, kofta and more. Most noteworthy are the sharing sets which allow 2-4 guests to try several dishes and sides at more affordable prices; to drink they have chai masala and healthy turmeric lattes, in addition to classic mango lassis. There’s a real community atmosphere here, as Bhajan endeavours to feed the body and soul through meditation classes and other events (check their FB). Recommended.QJ‑8, ul. Stradomska 17, tel. (+48) 795 89 58 95, www.bhajancafe.pl. Open 11:0022:00. €€. T

Restaurants KA VEGAN UDON & SUSHI This brilliant bare bones sushi and noodle house offers strictly vegan (Mon-Fri only), plus hot and cold bowls of udon with sides of tempura, kimchi, edamame and more. Sticklers for authenticity and fresh ingredients, the staff will happily walk you through the basics, and the manager is basically a sake sommelier (but you’re on your own with the chopsticks). Close proximity to the bus station makes Ka Udon a trendy lunch bar - the busy effect enhanced by the long bar where customers slurp and stab their meal across from the chefs and servers. From the same team as Karma, in addition to sake and exceptional coffee, they also brew their own beer and kombucha, and offer matcha and natural wines.QL‑4, ul. Rakowicka 14A, tel. (+48) 790 23 77 79. Open 12:00-21:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. T6 KROWARZYWA VEGAN BURGER Kraków’s cool kids keep queueing out the door for Krowarzywa’s cheap vegan burgers and kebabs. Choose your ‘burger’ patty - millet (‘Jaglanex’), vegan pastrami (seitan), chickpea (‘Cieciorex’), tofu, tempeh, pea protein (‘Beyond Burger’), or their monthly special - pick your sauce and whether you want it in a bun, wrap or bowl, and then leave the rest to the riot grrrls on the grill, whose assembly line efficiency is something to behold. The interior is as simple as the menu, and, as if their hipster cred could possibly be in question, they have their own bottled yerba, kombucha, matcha and even cannabis drinks. It’s encouraging to see a place like this gain traction just off the market square. Check it out.QI‑5, ul. Sławkowska 8, tel. (+48) 531 77 71 36, www.krowarzywa.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. €. T6 POD NORENAMI Proficient in the dark metamorphic magic of the soybean, Pod Norenami’s long menu features tofu, mock chicken and mock beef prepared in an astounding variety of traditional dishes from the kitchens of Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, Korea and China. A fun place to fool or educate the Polish palate, this is the only restaurant in town to emphasise mock meats, and the interior is modest and casual as opposed to modern and kitsch. Do Kraków’s vegetarians have it hard? Hardly.QH‑5, ul. Krupnicza 6, tel. (+48) 661 21 92 89, www.podnorenami.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. T VEGANIC An outstanding vegan/vegetarian restaurant in the Tytano complex, Veganic possesses both an elegant backdrop for a romantic dinner, and an enormous garden for hipsters hangabouts. A great place to discover new ingredients, enjoy a wide range of excellent, healthy, vegan and gluten-free breakfasts, soups, pastas, shakes and desserts - gorgeously presented and quickly-served. Paired with wines, craft beers or a kale cocktail, it’s impossible to oversell Veganic, which vaults itself to the top of the list of Kraków’s vegetarian restaurants.QH‑5, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 668 46 84 69, www.veganic.com.pl. Open 09:0022:00; Mon 12:00-22:00; Thu 09:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 09:0024:00. €€. T6

Rakowicka 14a 105

Nightlife

Czarna Owca - a ‘wino’ bar for the black sheep in every flock (p.110).

If you believe urban legend (like we do), Kraków has the highest density of bars and clubs in the world. Simply hundreds of drinking dens can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching from the Old Town to Kazimierz and beyond. Keeping them open, of course, are thousands of students, and the millions of tourists that flock to Kraków every year. With increased tourism comes increased prices, however, and these days you can expect to pay 10zł (2.35 Euros) for a large lager these days, and up to 15zl (3.5 Euros) for a craft beer. For clubbing, the main hedonist high streets are Floriańska (J-5) and Szewska (I-5) where nary a medieval cellar will be left unthronged by sexed-up students on a Friday or Saturday night; you can also expect most clubs to charge a cover of anywhere from 5-20zł those nights. While the opening hours we list here are confirmed by the venues themselves, most are rather flexible; basically if people are drinking, the barman is pouring. Unfortunately, space is limited in our print guide, so use our website - iyp.me/krakow - to find reviews of almost every drinking locale in town, and leave us your comments about all of those which you’ve visited. Below is a list of nightlife recommendations depending on what you’re looking for. COCKTAILS The best in town are at Mercy Brown (p.110) - a pseudospeakeasy with 1920s panache, but the current place to be is Nadwiślańska (p.95). Head to Tytano’s Mash Room (p.109) if you want your cocktails on tap or by the caraffe, or Gin Mill (p.108) if you love juniper. Finally, for signature drinks down the pub it’s Tram Bar (p.111) every time. 106

CRAFT BEER Microbrews are all the rage in Kraków, so there’s no excuse for drinking bad beer anymore. Take your tipples in House of Beer (p.109), Browar Lubicz (p.100) or Weźże Krafta (p.112) and you can officially consider yourself a beer snob. COUPLES Couples looking for some face time should start with wine in Czarna Owca (p.110), sample some local liqueurs in Niewódka (p.110), or have some fun in Bubble Toast (p.107), before catching some live jazz in Piec’Art (p.110), and finishing with a nightcap in Mercy Brown (p.110) or Gin Mill (p.108). CLASSIC KAZIMIERZ Kazimierz (p.34) has become known as much for its nightlife as its Jewish heritage. Synonymous with candlelit bars stuffed with antiques, where under the stewardship of alcohol one might commune with a lost, forgotten world, check out classic bars like Alchemia (p.107), Eszeweria (p.107), Hevre (p.108) and Singer (p.111). ALL-NIGHTER The clubs we list (p.112) basically roll until dawn, but if you prefer bars, Singer (p.111) starts peaking when most bars close, and Alchemia (p.107) and Klub Piękny Pies (p.109) are also two of the last bars to shutter in Kazmierz; meanwhile on ul. Bożego Ciała (J-8) you’ll find several dive bars that don’t seem to close at all. If you still want some company (or need some food) after the sun has come up, head to Śledz u Fryzjera (p.104), or find any Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa location (p.81).

Nightlife MUST-TRY ALCOHOLS

SYMBOL KEY N Credit cards not accepted C‑1 Map Coordinate U Facilities for the disabled 6 Animal friendly X Smoking room available

E Live music

o Year-Round Garden

BARS & PUBS ALCHEMIA One of Kraków’s most evocative bars, the aptly-named Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia candlelight, forgotten photographs and antique intrigues of the former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day, in the evenings Alchemia’s murky mystique metamorphoses blood into beer for the ruddy regulars and excitable tourists queuing before the indifferent bar staff. The cellar, when it’s not being used as a student disco, plays host to some of the best concerts in town and is a prime participant in annual jazz and klezmer festivals, and the adjacent Alchemia od Kuchni serves a full menu of excellent eats until 22:00 (until 23:00 Thu-Sat). Essential in every way.QK‑8, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 22 00, www.alchemia.com.pl. Open 09:00-02:00; Mon 10:0002:00; Thu 09:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-04:00. XE6 BUBBLE TOAST NEW Trades on champagne, fizzy cocktails and an outrageous instapop interior of funky decor explicitly designed to look glam on your Instagram, Bubble Toast is truly something to behold. The 2-floor locale is filled with melted popsicles, dangling bananas, disco balls, make-up mirrors, carousel horses, and even a ball pit. If not for the pink fanny packs, the curvy staff would be almost indiscernible from the aspiring young attention-seekers taking selfies in each corner of this faux lifestyle lounge while listening to bouncy hits by Vanilla Ice, Will Smith and Queen. The list of spritzers and cocktails ranges from 5zł glasses of Prosecco to 1099zł bottles of Dom Perignon, while the toasts are kind of a joke and should only be considered to avoid drunken mishaps. A fun and flirty spot for girl-time get-togethers, splashy date nights and dance party pre-gaming, you won’t find a more pretentious place in Kraków.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 5. Open 12:00-00:30; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:30; Sun 12:00-23:30. ESZEWERIA Perhaps embodying the spirit of Kazimierz more than any bar not directly on Plac Nowy, Eszeweria’s old world antiques, candelabras, frosty mirrors and murky, stencilled walls once played host to some of the city’s most novel concerts, however these days it’s more of a sleepy hang-out for hip nostalgics with hand-rolled cigarettes dangling off their lips. Perfect for ducking the tourists, having a quiet drink and catching the vibe of the neighbourhood, the large seasonal garden is lush oasis, and the restroom may be the most romantic in town (no wonder there’s a queue).QK‑8, ul. Józefa 9, tel. (+48) 517 49 19 27. Open 10:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-04:00. XU

If you’ve ever witnessed PL’s success at football, you’ll agree that the country’s national pastime must actually be drinking. Though there are dozens of unique types of alcohol to try while you’re in town (more on p.98), we think these four are the most essential. Na zdrowie!

1. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA

Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. Though it comes in a variety of flavours, the original orange label (‘tradycyny’) is an aged, amber-coloured liquor flavoured with herbs and spices. Żołądkowa has a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything you’re likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, we prefer it on ice.

2. ŻUBRÓWKA

One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka - also known as Bison Grass Vodka - has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to the primeval Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste which has been described as ‘floral’ or having traces of almond or vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka’ or ‘szarlotka’ depending where you are.

3. KRUPNIK

Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet liquor made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking booze doesn’t get any easier than this.

4. MIÓD PITNY

Mead, or ‘drinkable honey,’ preceded beer’s arrival in PL and has remained a favourite since the Middle Ages. Since 2008, Polish meads are protected under EU law as a traditional regional specialty. Distilled from honey, the drink is extremely easy to consume and comes in four strengths with ‘Połtorak’ the strongest (15-18%). 107

Nightlife GIN MILL Gin lovers, rejoice, Kraków’s first bar devoted almost exclusively to the juniper berry has arrived. Gin Bar may also the city’s smallest dram house/cocktail bar, with exactly 8 seats in its minute 18 square metre space full of handsome bottles, plant life and botanical motifs. Escape from the urban din to this effortlessly cool oasis, where the friendly barman will walk you through the over 100 different types of gin on offer (13-44zł), used to mix high quality, but very affordable gin and tonics, as well as a range of absolutely extraordinary signature juniper-based cocktails (24-26zł) you won’t find elsewhere. Recommended.QJ‑8, ul. Dietla 49. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-01:00; closed Tue. 6 HALA GŁÓWNA An absolutely massive space with plenty of seating inside and out, Hala hums with warm bodies. The dim industrial interior has been embellished with a super-long bar, urban art and video projections, and acid jive on the stereo - put together it somehow achieves modern urbanite appeal while also basically being a student dive. To that end there’s pizza served late, 17 craft beers on draught and weekend DJ parties from 22:00. If this is the fall back for when every other place at Tytano is packed full, it basically cements the complex’s rep as the best place to go out in Kraków. QG‑5, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, tel. (+48) 12 307 19 19. Open 16:00-01:00; Thu 16:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-05:00. UBE6

TYTANO

Weźże Krafta

After lying derelict for decades, this former tobacco factory just west of the Old Town has transformed into an artsy, off-beat nightlife and alt-culture complex. Inhabiting 6 buildings and 15,000m2, Tytano’s postindustrial allure has attracted dozens of original bars and restaurants with their fingers on the pulse of current urban culture trends, making this ‘city within the city’ the current place to be in Kraków. Make sure you visit. Tytano venues of note include Cargo (p.89), Międzymiastowa (p.95), Veganic (p.105), Hala Główna (p.108), Mash Room (p.109) and Weźże Krafta (p.112).QG‑5, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10, www.dolnemlyny.pl. 108

HARD ROCK CAFE KRAKÓW Sit back enjoying your cocktail or beer overlooking the market square and Cloth Hall from Hard Rock’s modern split-level bar. The chaps here know how to make that drink and the smiling faces can sometimes be all you need after a long day facing stern museum curators. This is also one of the only places in town that has a ‘happy hour,’ which ironically starts after 22:00 Mon-Thu. Overall, HRC isn’t the cheapest place in town, but it’s one of comfort for many. QJ‑5, Rynek Główny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, www.hardrockcafe.com/location/krakow. Open 10:00-01:00. UB6 HEVRE This former Jewish prayer house has been turned into a tasteful, modern and perfectly Kazimierski restaurant/bar/ club. Though badly damaged during WWII, the interior still retains traces of the original frescos and the mechitza (a balcony for separating men and women), giving it a real feeling of history, as well as a social, uniquely Cracovian atmosphere. The bar is the only place in Kraków to offer Pilsner Urquell straight from the tank - and they do so in four ways, depending on how much you appreciate beer foam. Signature cocktails and stellar Galician cuisine are also served, from breakfast options (served 09:00 - 13:00) to late night appetisers (served until 01:00). On weekends Hevre doubles as a dance-party destination when they open the upstairs and basement levels for DJ-driven raveups.QJ‑8, ul. Meiselsa 18, tel. (+48) 509 41 36 26. Open 09:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-04:00. XE6

Nightlife

The Best

Guinness

in Poland!!!

Awarded first place for quality in Poland’s Guinness Competition.

ul. Św. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl Open 12:00 – 02:00, Fri, Sat 11: 00 – 02: 00

HOUSE OF BEER With two bars, 21 draught beers and over 200 bottles, this high-ceilinged pub full of dark wooden furnishings and large leather sofas helped lead the charge to improve the beer culture of Poland’s drinking capital. Now they’ve gotten even better with a vast and scrumptious menu of modern pub food - pulled pork sandwiches, fish and chips, chilli con carne, buffalo wings and more - much of which can be ordered to share, and even comes with beer suggestions. The pub atmosphere is foreign-friendly without being overly laddish or full of TVs. Some beers can be a bit pricey so find out what the damage is before the barman unbottles it, or try the local ales on draught for more of a bargain.QJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 35 (entrance from ul. Św. Krzyża 13), tel. (+48) 12 349 05 42, www. houseofbeerkrakow.com. Open 14:00-01:00; Thu 14:0002:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. 6 IRISH PUB POD PAPUGAMI A nice amalgamation of classic Irish pub and Cracovian cellar bar. Over two levels full of wooden fittings, Irish bric-a-brac, a billiards table, darts, plasma screens streaming sports, fresh baked pizza and pints of Murphy’s, Guinness and cider, Pod Papugami has a friendly sociable atmosphere beloved by lads and gentlemen alike. A great place to meet people and find out just what exactly ‘the craic’ is, PP actually captures everything we like about being in an Irish bar.QJ‑5, ul. Św. Jana 18, tel. (+48) 12 422 61 01, www.podpapugami. krakow.pl. Open 12:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-02:00. XU

Irish Pub Certified quality Guinness, a wide range of whiskey, live Irish music and live sports on a big screen in a great atmosphere in one of Krakow’s oldest and biggest pubs.

• Two bars • Pool • Darts • SKY – TV (All matches shown)

KLUB PIĘKNY PIES Everyone who knows Kraków knows ‘The Beautiful Dog,’ whether they lived here 15 years ago or just arrived. Now shifting seamlessly into its fourth location, this cult drink tank still features the same familiar cast of unwashed artists, cougar vampires, counter-culture cuties and hard-living ex-pats; and still offers the same great playlist of indie hits, new wave and electronic music that keeps the dancing spontaneous rather than obligatory on weekdays, while weekends host concerts and DJs. One of the best choices in Kraków if you want a late night but not a ‘nightclub,’ it’s still perfectly acceptable to chainsmoke in this vast maze of underground cellars, and just as easy as ever to stumble out into the broken glass and blinding gaze of broad daylight.QK‑9, Pl. Wolnica 9. Open 13:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-05:00. E MASH ROOM What’s better than a pitcher of beer? A carafe of delicious cocktail, of course. The only place in town to offer signature draught cocktails (6 total, 21zł each, carafes 34zł), Mash Room invite icons from the club music scene to create their menu mixed drinks, which changes every few months. While most cocktail bars hold their noses in the air, this Tytano venue is essentially an IDM cocktail dive bar, whose slightly psychedelic interior includes an odd ceiling canopy made of plastic cups. Standard long drinks and Czech beer round out the libations list.QG‑4, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10/7B, tel. (+48) 530 05 35 51. Open 16:00-02:00; Mon 16:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-05:00. UB 109

Nightlife WINE BARS BARAWINO Occupying an unconventional corner locale near Plac Wolnica, BARaWINO is the first wine bar connected with Kondrat Selected Wines - one of the largest wine importers in Poland. This isn’t the domain of haughty sommeliers and wine snobs, however, but rather a social, laid-back gathering place for friends (not just couples!), who place their orders at the bar and either take their bottle home (at a discount), or relax in the casual interior. The selection in stock surpasses 200 labels, at least 25 of which are available by the glass at the bar, which also offers some wine snacks. On Thursdays from 19:30 enjoy free jazz, and watch out for their regular wine promotions and tastings. A nice reminder that you don’t have to be dressed to the nines to go enjoy a glass of wine.QK‑9, ul. Mostowa 1, tel. (+48) 668 67 17 12, www.barawino.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. E6 CZARNA OWCA WINO BAR This small, stylish wine bar offers a range of excellent wines from across the world, by the glass or by the bottle (also to take home), at very nice prices. The friendly, professional, multi-lingual staff set the social atmosphere by not only helping you select your desired dram, but encouraging you to sample several first. Tapas are available, spring water is free, and they also often organise intimate concerts. Calling itself a ‘wino bar,’ Czarna Owca (Black Sheep) casts off the pretensions associated with wine culture and captures the boho vibe of the Kazimierz about as well as anywhere. Raise a glass and make some friends. QL‑8, ul. Dajwór 20, tel. (+48) 576 44 60 88, www. czarnaowcawinobar.pl. Open 16:00-01:00. UE6 KRAKO SLOW WINES This wine shop and bar is the perfect place to slow down, unwind and recharge after a long, heady trip through Schindler’s Factory - located almost next door. Full of wooden fixtures and natural light, this warehouse space has been transformed into an oasis of good taste, ideal for getting your nose into their outstanding selection of wines from exclusively ecological vineyards (over 100 vintages). Some are certified organic, many are Polish, and all are completely intoxicating, of course. In addition to wine they’ll also please your palette with cheese and meat boards lined with Central Eastern delicacies, and there’s also a food trucked serving grilled Georgian cuisine out front (open Thu-Sat 12:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-20:00). A unique place to pass the time, the impression lingers and so did we.QN‑9, ul. Lipowa 6F, tel. (+48) 669 88 72 22, www.krakoslowwines.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00-24:00; closed Mon. 6 110

MERCY BROWN This pseudo-speakeasy is Kraków’s best cocktail bar. No joke, the gentlemen that tend bar here are artists and the joy they take in showcasing their talents is palpable; pull up a barstool and don’t miss the show. They make their own tinctures, the liquors are top shelf, and the tidy list of exclusive, artisanal drinks changes regularly; prices start at 24zł, but it’s absolutely worth it. The perfect place for a nightcap, enjoy the dim, decadent 1920s Parisian atmosphere and electro-swing soundtrack, or live jazz on Sundays. Hidden above the Smakołyki restaurant with no outside signage, enter and indicate to the porter at the desk that you’d like to go upstairs; half the fun is the forbidden feeling of finding this place.QH‑5, ul. Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 512 09 10 12. Open 19:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 19:0003:00; Sun 18:00-23:00; closed Mon, Tue. E NIEWÓDKA NEW Specialising in hand-crafted nalewki - sweet regional liqueurs made from exactly three ingredients: alcohol, fruit and sugar - this truly unique dram house decants their five flavours (cherry, gooseberry, raspberry, black current and lemon) straight from special pipes in the ceiling; sample 50ml shots of all five for 30zł. At a mild 18% alcohol, these drinks are generally for civilised sipping, not shooting, and their appeal will largely depend on how sweet you like your liqueurs, but it’s certainly an ideal place to partake in local drinking culture. Dimly lit with black walls and simple furniture, DJs drop in every Sat night and Niewódka also offers some regional snacks to go with their tipples. In Kazimierz, keep your eye out for their older sister establishment specialising in cherry vodka, Niewódka Off Spirits (formerly ‘WiśniOFFka,’ ul. Józefa 5, K-8).QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 5, tel. (+48) 507 57 57 64. Open 15:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-03:00; Sun 14:00-24:00. BE6 PIEC’ART The legend of this esteemed jazz den dates back to 1999, and it has managed to remain at the forefront of Kraków’s respected jazz scene ever since, attracting some of the biggest names in the world jazz scene to its stage. Live concerts take place almost nightly (check their website for exact details) in the vaulted brick cellars, attracting an artsy crowd of jazz playing peers and purists. The upstairs coffee and whiskey bar adds a touch of class to ul. Szewska, featuring the longest bar in town and silent films flickering on the wall.QI‑5, ul. Szewska 12, tel. (+48) 12 429 16 02, www.piecart.pl. Open 16:00-02:00. E SHISHA CLUB BY BOLLYWOOD An Indian-owned den of oriental exotica, Shisha Club’s cup runneth over with draped fabrics, oriental rugs, stained glass lanterns, colourful cushions and intricate tiles. Navigate an underground labyrinth of dimly-lit rooms before settling down in the plush nook of your choice and selecting from five flavours of tobacco (39zł and up), plus drinks from the full bar. Ideal for a quiet make out session with your Queen Jasmine, or a sedated evening with friends.QJ‑5, Mały Rynek 2-3, tel. (+48) 536 25 96 42. Open 16:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-02:00. X

Nightlife SINGER One of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer essentially invented the evocative aesthetic of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, rickety antiques and candlelight associated with the district today. A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by day, Singer hits its stride around 03:00 when tabletops turn into dancefloors, the regulars abandon their drinks to dip and spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy, klezmer, balkan and swing music, the entire bar begins to feel like a Ferris wheel ready to fly off its axis and the boundaries of time are obliterated. Yeah, we’ve had a few good ones here. QK‑8, ul. Izaaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 06 22. Open 09:0003:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-06:00. X STARA ZAJEZDNIA (THE OLD DEPOT) This old tram depot has assumed a second life as Kraków’s biggest brewery and beer hall. A large complex of cavernous brick and timber buildings, Stara Zajezdnia’s size is both a blessing and a curse, as even the smaller out-buildings can feel pretty lonely without a large party inside, but if you happen to be in one, do bring it here. Flat-screens beam football and the beers they brew onsite (including lager, pear wheat, plum and pineapple IPA) do well to wash down the traditional Polish fare. QK‑9, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 12, tel. (+48) 664 32 39 88, www.starazajezdniakrakow.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. U6 ŚWIĘTA KROWA (THE HOLY COW) One of the most laid-back bars in the Old Town, Święta Krowa is an intoxicating alchemic elixir of alcohol, incense, candlelight, cloves and ambient eastern grooves. Hidden in a small, soulful brick cellar off Floriańska, ‘The Holy Cow’ inhabits two oriental sitting rooms slung with prayer flags, low cushioned stools and two lofted lounge areas. Amiable barmen conjure a range of invigorating alcohol infusions and this is the perfect hideaway for a cold mojito in summer or mulled cider in winter (and maybe an opium nap). A highly recommended cult hangout.QJ‑5, ul. Floriańska 16, tel. (+48) 12 426 01 18. Open 17:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-05:00. X6 TRAM BAR Though looking like a downtrodden dive bar in the midst of the drunken late night din, Tram Bar actually serves as a sophisticated escape from the shenanigans taking place just beyond its door. In stark contrast to the 4zł beers across the passageway, the focus here is on signature cocktails (20zł+ each), mixed drinks and one of the most well-stocked bars in the Old Town (over 160 different types of alcohol!). A veteran of Kraków’s bar scene, Tram Bar also looks and feels like a local classic, filled with antique tram benches, luggage racks and Golden Oldies descending from the stereo. More pub than lounge, here you can escape the sloppy student crowds, fashionistas and try-hard hipsters who make so many other places in the city unbearable.QC‑3, ul. Stolarska 5, tel. (+48) 730 33 15 32. Open 17:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-02:00. 6

Luxury Shisha Club in town Maly Rynek 2-3, 31-041 Kraków tel. (+48) 536 25 96 42 manager@shishaclub.pl www.shishaclub.pl

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Nightlife

Sun-Thu 17:00-02:00 Fri - Sat 17:00-04:00

VICE ADVICE Boys will be boys they say, and the shocking growth of strip clubs inside the UNESCO-listed Old Town in recent years would seem to confirm that men do indeed become lads when abroad without their WAGs. Unfortunately, with the increase in naughty clubs have come increasingly frequent reports of scams and shady, sometimes dangerous dealings. You’ve likely heard stories of inflated tabs, thuggish bouncers, unauthorised charges and spiked drinks - unfortunately these are not rumours, but real threats you need to guard yourself against because the local authorities seem either unable or unwilling to stop them. With the speed that local strip clubs now earn bad reputations and reinvent themselves, we simply can’t police them ourselves, and we don’t feel comfortable recommending any particular club to our readers. Our advice is to not feed this industry, whose treatment of its own employees is rarely better than that of its guests. If you do, however, decide to visit a strip club in Kraków, we advise you to mind your manners, deal only in cash if possible, don’t let anyone outside your group order drinks for you, and generally keep your wits about you. By doing so you’ll be doing the important research we ourselves once did, but understand that you won’t be doing it on our recommendation. 112

TRZCINA NEW Formerly Mojito Caffè, a recent refurb as ‘Trzcina’ (Cane/ Reed) fine-tunes the cool tropical vibe of this cocktail oasis with deep green walls, leafy stalks and shoots, and a retro urbane mural. Just off of Plac Nowy, and perfectly placed for absorbing the atmosphere of bustling, bohemian Kazimierz, Trzcina offers a wide range of signature craft and classic cocktails (25/24zł), from a welldesigned and detailed menu that even explains the style of glass each drink will be served in (so you tough guys can avoid the pratfalls of drinking from a stemmed glass). There are also several mixed drinks that can be ordered by the pitcher (54zł), as well as mocktails, mulled wine, beer and cider, and excellent espresso coffee drinks, Aeropress and Chemex. A warm, social atmosphere prevails, enhanced by live music every Sunday at 19:30. QK‑8, ul. Meiselsa 22, tel. (+48) 12 307 32 58. Open 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-02:00; Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. E6 WEŹŻE KRAFTA Located at the heart of the hip Tytano complex, Weźże is Kraków’s largest multitap bar, offering 25 craft beers in rotation on draught, plus more in bottles. With an industrial interior of unplastered bricks, columns supporting the ceiling beams, and leather seating, this is a flophouse for hopheads, which spills outside into the adjacent alleys. Though often crowded, Weźże feels like a cool oasis of civil camaraderie. One of the city’s trendiest drinking destinations, if you appreciate your ale, you should absolutely seek it out.QG‑4, ul. Dolnych Młynów 10/3, tel. (+48) 12 307 40 50, www.wezze-krafta.ontap.pl. Open 16:00-01:00; Thu, Fri 16:00-02:00; Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. UB 6 WÓDKA CAFE BAR Poles take their vodka seriously, and this tiny enclave takes it more seriously than most by offering some 100 different flavours - from chocolate to chili, earl grey to blackthorn (Tarninówka). A great place to participate in Poland’s favourite past time by grabbing a shot on the go, the atmospheric lofted interior would be cosy (and sometimes is on weekday afternoons) if it wasn’t full of loud tourists. If you’re able to score a table, share a sampling raft of 6 or more shots with your friends; just don’t make plans for the following day.QD‑3, ul. Mikołajska 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 32 14, www.wodkabar.pl. Open 15:00-01:00; Fri 14:0002:00; Sat 13:00-02:00; Sun 13:00-01:00.

CLUBS GORZKO GORZKO NEW Named after the cheer (“Bitter! Bitter!”) used to oblige newlyweds to kiss, this theme club gives you the opportunity to party - Polish wedding-style - every weekend. Perfect fun for stag and hen parties, whether you want to dress up and role-play or not, Gorzko Gorzko pulls

Nightlife out all the stops to emulate a typical Polish wedding disco, complete with kitsch decor and the atrocious disco polo music and pop hits heard at all such events. Sign up early via FB for free entry, or pay 10/20zł at the door. Each party includes a welcome champagne, Polish snack table, photo booth, wedding games and activities throughout the night. If doing the chicken dance with drunken strangers at an all-night wedding is an experience you’ve never had, or your conditioned idea of a great time, this club is for you, Wieśniaku.QI‑5, Pl. Szczepański 7, tel. (+48) 600 82 52 53, www.gorzko-gorzko.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-05:00 only. PROZAK 2.0 At once a honey-trap for horny foreigners hoping to ‘pull’ from the pool of bottle blondes happily putting drinks on their tabs, and a haven for savants for whom clubbing is ‘about the music,’ Prozak has lived on the cutting edge of Krakow’s clubbing scene for over a decade with an impressive line-up of top DJs on weekends, and probably the best sound system in town. The interior is an endless maze of underground rooms over two levels with an incredible four bars and three dance-floors on which to wild out. The crowd is just as fun, flirty and foreign-friendly as ever, with the party continuing until the natural selection of those with kittens and those with kebabs takes place in the blurry light of another dawn.QJ‑6, Pl. Dominikański 6, tel. (+48) 733 70 46 50, www.prozakdwazero.pl. Open 22:30-04:00; Fri, Sat 21:30-07:00. X SHINE CLUB KRAKÓW One of Kraków’s most exclusive and fashionable clubs, Shine hosts top DJs and modelling agencies at their weekend parties which range from elaborate circus shows to silly wet t-shirt contests. Located in a 1,000m2 former cinema, this enormous space features 3 bars, 3 dancefloors (one of which is VIP), a smoking area, and enough blinking LEDs to send the blind into epileptic fits. The music is mostly house and r’n’b, and the modern design is truly impressive, trumped only by the seductive patrons who you’d almost suspect must be getting paid to populate this Polish fantasy. Expect a 10-20zł cover at the door.QK‑6, ul. Starowiślna 16, tel. (+48) 725 70 02 25, www.krakow. shineclub.com.pl. Open Fri 22:00-04:00; Sat 22:00-05:00 only. X TEATRO CUBANO Successfully simulating the sultry atmosphere of a Havana side-street as you shuffle through the crowded alleyway, this rhythmic club is a breath of fresh air. Full of students and travellers from the upstairs hostel, fuel up with their mini-burgers and get your buzz on with cheap beer and mixed drinks. Live music every day and DJs into the wee hours - check their FB. Diversity is something Kraków could use more of, and this place embraces it.QI‑5, ul. Jagiellońska 10, tel. (+48) 660 56 21 00. Open 17:0004:00; Wed, Thu 17:00-05:00; Fri 15:00-06:00; Sat 17:0006:00. XEW

Drink bar

Pool Dance Show

Jacuzzi Party

Striptease

THE MOST EXCLUSIVE CLUB IN THE CENTER OF KRAKOW

Św. Jana 10 phone +48 12 4306164 open hours: Sun, Mon, Tue, Wed, : 20.00-04.00 Thu: 20.00-05.00 Fri, Sat : 20.00- 06.00 113

Local Gifts & Souvenirs Thanks to seasonal fairs and a famous souvenir market in the middle of the market square, it’s hardly a challenge to find local gifts in Kraków. A stroll through the stalls of the Cloth Hall (p.26) is indeed a requisite experience, and below we list some key items to keep an eye out for, as well as plenty of alternatives so you’re sure to leave town with the uniquely Polish gift you’re searching for. For more ideas scan through our Shopping chapter, or visit the Poland IYP Shop: iyp.me/polandshop. FOLK POTTERY FROM BOLESŁAWIEC Hailing from a small town in western PL, Bolesławiec pottery is one of Poland’s most popular exports, and Kraków is a great place to start a collection for yourself or anyone you know with a kitchen. Beloved for its simple hand-painted folk patterns, Bolesławiec is industrial design at its best - iconic, functional, durable and oh so Polish. Available in the Cloth Hall, there are also several shops around Kraków that offer Bolesławiec, but your best bet is to head to ul. Sławkowska (I-5); there you’ll find several shops on the same block, allowing you to find your favourite pattern and compare prices.

LOCAL ALCOHOLS & ‘NALEWKI’ Nothing says, ‘I’ve been to Poland’ like a suitcase of vodka. The Poles have been distilling and draining vodka since the Middle Ages, and you can read about their best inventions on p.107 and p.98. There are dozens more of course, including every fruit flavour imaginable, so make sure you’ve done your due diligence before hitting the airport duty-free shop. Sample brand-name spirits in Wódka Cafe Bar (p.112), or better yet, drop in to Szambelan (p.118) or Niewódka (p.110) for a tasting session of delicious liqueurs you won’t find in the alky shops. Taste a few, then buy a bottle for a unique and potently Polish gift.

AMBER JEWELLERY Honey vodka isn’t the only golden nectar in town, there’s also plenty of amber. Though far from the Baltic Sea from which it hails, Kraków was a major stop on the Amber Road and you’ll find beautiful jewellery made from this fossilised resin all over the Old Town. Come back from Poland without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse. Browse the stalls of the Cloth Hall, where prices are surprisingly competitive, or stroll down ul. Grodzka (I-6), where you’ll find numerous amber galleries, including our fave, World of Amber (p.119). 114

Kraków Cloth Hall

FOLK COSTUMES Each region of Poland has its own traditional folk costume, and you’ve surely noticed Kraków’s on everything from street performers to the kitsch in the souvenir shops, but - hang on - these outfits are actually amazing. I mean just look at those beaded vests and floral skirts, red-striped trousers and peacock caps! There’s not a hipster alive who wouldn’t kill for this outfit, or a kid on earth who wouldn’t look adorable in it. Unfortunately a full kit will cost you over 700zł, but you can always pick certain elements. Dolls in folk attire are also an affordable fallback plan. Where to find them? Inside the Cloth Hall (I-5), of course.

POLISH POSTER ART Poland has a rich tradition of graphic art, particularly poster art, which has developed as its own specific genre, with many Polish artists gaining international renown. In addition to posters for local cinema, theatre and state propaganda campaigns, during the PRL era Polish artists produced original posters for Hollywood films with only the often-random Polish titles and a few production details to work from. As a result, you can find truly bizarro Polish posters for some of your favourite films. Visit Dydo Poster Gallery (p.119) to learn more, peruse and purchase limited edition prints, or just collect some awesome postcards.

CHESS SETS While you’re scanning the stalls of the Cloth Hall keep your eyes peeled for handsome hand-carved wooden chess sets, which are very affordable and make a nice present. Of particular note are the hexagontal three-person sets - an interesting variant on the classic game which is just as crazy (and fun!) as it sounds. If you’re a chess fanatic, or just an ardent admirer of craftsmanship, seek out Moje Szachy - Łukasz Wiciarz’s woodcarving workshop in Podgórze (ul. Św. Benedykta 3, L-10), where the sculptor can be found most days from 09:00-18:00 creating boards and pieces for the beautiful sets available in his shop. 115

Shop Polish Design The profile of Polish design has risen considerably in recent years as both classical and contemporary Polish designs are receiving international attention. Traditional Polish folk motifs and communist-era designs are finding new life in contemporary contexts, and Polish design firms are spearheading current trends in sustainable design, urban apparel, minimalist decor and more. Here are some of the best places in Kraków to shop and discover Polish design. FORUM DESIGNU This large, spacious showroom for Polish interior design and home accessories is one of the most fashionable places in town. Though some European firms are represented, the emphasis here is on unique local design using sustainable production methods, and the result is an impressive, not-atall petite boutique. An added bonus is the attached Forum Mody fashion showroom, together with which they organise numerous design fairs, workshops and other events.QG‑6, ul. Focha 1 (Hotel Cracovia), tel. (+48) 604 05 64 77, www. forumdesignu.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-17:00.

UNIKKE DESIGN & FRIENDS This small gallery presents the jewellery design of local artist Olga Guzik, along with other Polish jewellery designers who share her brand’s basics of functionality, modernity and originality. Unikke Design started in 2012 when Guzik turned her passions for goldsmithery and riflery into her first jewellery line, which combined real bullets with natural stones. Today her work incorporates natural materials with innovative 3D printing techniques to create completely original designs.QJ‑8, ul. Józefa 6, tel. (+48) 506 07 53 58, www.unikkedesign.com. Open 12:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-17:00.

PAN TU NIE STAŁ This family business blossomed out of a blog on Polish communist-era design, typography and cultural artefacts, which soon developed into a design firm manufacturing contemporary hipster apparel inspired by PRL graphics and culture. Trendy and tongue-firmly-in-cheek, choose from shirts, socks and fanny packs with retro iconography, handleless mugs, shoulder bags, photo albums, posters, postcards and more. In terms of local design that is useful, affordable and overtly Polish, it doesn’t get any better.QL‑9, ul. Nadwiślańska 9, tel. (+48) 667 43 26 71, www.pantuniestal.com. Open 11:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-17:00. 116

PUNCA Frustrated by the high number of items in Kraków’s Cloth Hall not produced in Poland, Punca’s mission became clear: create a place where shoppers could be confident that every item is exclusively designed and produced in Poland. Working with Polish designers to create interior and lifestyle accessories under the Studio Punca brand, this concept store showcases an eclectic range of products: elegant crystal glass, modern jewellery, porcelain, pottery, art objects, textiles and more.QJ‑8, ul. Józefa 3, tel. (+48) 603 50 52 01, www.punca.com.pl. Open 11:0018:00; closed Sun.

SYNCRET This outstanding shop specialises in vintage and modern fine jewellery, made on-site in their workshop, with only truly exceptional diamonds and natural stones - all of which come with valuation documents. Special collections include one dedicated to Chopin using antique coins with the pianist’s image. The personalised customer service is a cut above the competition - they will work with you to design and create the perfect setting for the stone of your choice, and even resize it for free at a later date.QI‑6, ul. Bracka 8, tel. (+48) 797 65 70 80, www.syncret. com. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00; closed Sun.

IDEA FIX CONCEPT STORE The ‘idea’ here is promoting young Polish artists, designers and tastemakers in the realms of fashion, art, music and cosmetics (an increasingly important part of culture nowadays, we’ve noticed). Straight Soho (NYC), with an alternative urban chic style and anticonsumption attitude that will hopefully encourage Kraków’s DJs to start picking up their duds somewhere other than H&M, drop into this small, stylish concept store to check out clothing, jewellery, accessories and interior decor by independent local designers.Qul. Stradomska 16, tel. (+48) 515 54 52 52, www. ideafix.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-18:00; closed Sun. 117

Shopping

Visit the renowned Blazko jewellery workshop/gallery for some local colour you can take home with you.

While Kraków can hardly be considered a shoppers’ paradise in the traditional sense, its artsy reputation makes it a great place to pick up antiques, artwork and jewellery. Areas of note include Kazimerz’s ulica Józefa (K-8), which is lined with galleries, while the Cloth Hall (open roughly 10:00-21:00, I-5) in the middle of the market square is obvious for typical local souvenirs. For the generic western experience you can hit one of the shopping malls we list, however throughout this section we’ve made a concentrated effort to focus not on recognised, international brands and franchises, but unique, home-grown businesses; so we encourage you to put your money where their mouth is. You’ll find more local gift ideas and direct buying opportunities online in the Poland IYP Shop: iyp.me/polandshop.

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but since 2018 government regulations have increasingly restricted Sunday trading in Poland. In 2020 there will be only 7 Sundays in the entire year when shops are allowed to be open. There are some exemptions from the ban, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets, Żabka convenience stores (most of which close at 23:00), souvenir shops (oh thank god) and establishments where the owners themselves are behind the counter. Note that the Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep only on those Sundays when trade is allowed. 2020’s shopping Sundays are: Jan 26 | April 5, 26 | Jun 28 | Aug 30 | Dec 13, 20 118

ALCOHOL & TOBACCO DR ZIÓŁKO CANNABIS SHOP With medical marijuana legal in PL, you don’t need a prescription to see this herb doctor, who has quickly set up successful practices across PL. While ‘head shops’ were once the bro-ey domain of hemp necklaces, hackey sacks, Nag champa and Marley posters, today cannabis is a designer commodity, and this modern ‘dispensary’ features rows of glass cases filled with glowing green buds - each with their own flavour and properties profile, plus pre-rolled joints, edibles, pipes, bongs, vaporisers, and all the smoking accessories you can think of. Before you get too excited, we must clarify that these products are all completely legal because they have no psychoactive properties (what a buzzkill). And though you can legally smoke them in the open, we wouldn’t trust the local cops to know the difference, so our advice is to keep it discreet. Second location at ul. Starowiślna 52 (K-8).QJ‑8, ul. Stradomska 18, tel. (+48) 660 06 06 99, www.drziolko.pl. Open 11:0020:00; Sun 12:00-17:00. SZAMBELAN A huge selection of special vodkas, meads, nalewki and Polish absinthes decanted from enormous Erlenmeyer flasks. The exotic bottles make for ideal last minute gifts which they can ship for you, or go ghetto fab by refilling a plastic bottle and stuffing it in your luggage (or just strolling the Planty...wait, no). Sample first, sample often. QI‑6, ul. Gołębia 2 (entrance from ul. Bracka 9), tel. (+48) 12 628 70 93, www.szambelan.pl. Open 11:0020:00; Sun 12:00-18:00.

Shopping AMBER & JEWELLERY BLAZKO Don’t fancy amber? Not a problem. Head down to Kazimierz’s artistic Józefa Street and drop in on Grzegorz Błażko - a Polish artist and designer, well-known and admired for his unique, colourful, high quality jewellery. Working in silver, brass, synthetic materials and acrylic, Błażko creates original, hand-made and highly soughtafter rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings and more. Quite a character himself, his store is also his workshop, so a visit is an intimate encounter with the artist at his craft.QK‑8, ul. Józefa 11, tel. (+48) 579 05 64 56, www.blazko.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-15:00. LILOU This Polish jewellery brand has become popular across the world for their customised jewellery - primarily pendants, charms and chains - which can be engraved on-site with whatever personalised message you’re able to dream up. Glamorous but not intimidating, Lilou jewellery is made of 14 karat gold, 925 silver or 23 karat plated-gold, and their Kraków boutique is staffed by immaculately-attired ladies keen to assist you with your decision.QJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 27, tel. (+48) 12 312 13 93, www.lilouparis. com. Open 11:00-19:00. WORLD OF AMBER Like a mosquito encased in golden resin, amber is inextricable from the history of Poland and Kraków. Baltic amber is the most desired of all, and tourist-laden Kraków’s location on the Amber Route means you’ve got one of the best selections in the world, crafted by master jewellers. Truth in advertising, this Schubert showcase shop really is a wondrous world of amber, with items ranging from rings and pendants to dragons and chess sets. Also at ul. Floriańska 13 and 22 (J-5), and ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Hotel, H-7).QJ‑6, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 12 430 21 14, www. worldofamber.pl. Open 09:00-20:00.

ART & DESIGN DYDO POSTER GALLERY If you have an eye and appreciation for graphics, you should know that Poland has a long tradition of graphic art, particularly posters for film, theatre and advertising. This gallery in the former Cracovia Hotel expands on the small family gallery in the Old Town (ul. Stolarska 8-10, J-6) with proper wall space for some of the prints on sale and changing poster exhibits, plus binders upon binders of what else is available, not to mention stacks of postcards for those not ready to travel with a poster tube. Check out awesome and relatively unknown Polish designs for beloved Hollywood films and famous stage productions. We guarantee you’ll find something you like, and these unique (and even rare in some cases) posters make great souvenirs and keepsakes.QG‑6, ul. Focha 1 (Hotel Cracovia), tel. (+48) 790 79 22 44, www.dydopostergallery.com. Open 14:30-18:30; closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. 119

Shopping BOOKS IN ENGLISH

GALERIA LUELUE This charming photography gallery/shop full of vintage imagery, offset slightly by more cheeky graphic designs from contemporary artists, serves as a sort of time capsule, connecting guests to the dreams and memories of Krakow’s past. With an emphasis on early urbania, architecture and romance, this is a great place to pick up high-quality reproductions of nostalgic photographs printed on canvas, posters, postcards or even linen shoulder bags. They’ll even print your own images and designs if you upload them on their website.QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 22, tel. (+48) 728 55 10 24, www.luelue.pl. Open 09:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:0019:00.

Massolit

FASHION & ACCESSORIES

MASSOLIT BOOKS & CAFÉ Arguably the best English-language bookstore in Central Europe, owing in large part to its unique cafe atmosphere. With books on all subjects and specialising in Polish, East European and Jewish literature, here you’ll also find recent English language periodicals (store copies) to peruse over coffee or wine, with a bagel or slice of pie. The selection is surprisingly good, and the prices are the best you’ll find anywhere. If you’re on an extreme budget you can even trade the novel you finished on the train for credit towards a new one. Also look for their bakery nearby at ul. Smoleńsk 17 (H-6), and bistro in Kazimierz (K-8).QH‑6, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel. (+48) 12 432 41 50, www.massolit. com. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00. T6

CHORĄŻY CAPS & HATS Polish old man hats are the heights of fashion (in our opinion) and this family shop is where to get one. Give Józef the hatmaker a head and he’ll hand you a handsome, perfectly fitting hat. With Józef’s name and his shop’s Cracovian address sewn into each one, these hats make great gifts and keepsakes, and are evidence of a world that is rapidly vanishing. And they’re a bargain. Józef doesn’t speak English, but it’s not like you’re trying to draft legislation together - it’s a hat, he’s a hatmaker.QJ‑9, ul. Krakowska 35A, tel. (+48) 608 28 26 31, www.czapkichorazy.prv.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun. HRC KRAKÓW ROCK SHOP You know a city has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe, and is there anything which says ‘I’ve been there’ more than a Hard Rock t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the ‘Kraków’ tee to add to your collection at the shop inside the HRC opposite St. Mary’s Basilica. Classic white may cost 110zł, but the memory of buying it - priceless.QJ‑5, Rynek Główny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, www.hardrockcafe. com/location/krakow. Open 10:00-24:00. LE SZAPO This classy hat boutique (whose name is a Polish phonetic pronunciation of the French ‘le chapeau’) brings some French debonair to the streets of Kraków, offering all manner of headwear, for all seasons, in all styles - fedoras, caps berets, beanies, headbands and more - plus other original accessories designed primarily in France and Poland. With a retro urbane atmosphere and warm living room vibe created by the welcoming staff, you’re sure to leave looking more dapper than you arrived. 2nd location at ul. Długa 18 (J-4), or order their stylish stock online.QJ‑7, ul. Stradomska 2, tel. (+48) 791 22 98 92, www.leszapo. com. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Sun.

Save space and time by shopping online: iyp.me/polandshop 120

Shopping MUSIC & RECORDS PAUL’S BOUTIQUE Kraków’s best record store for vinyl enthusiasts, at Paul’s the records are well-protected, clearly labelled and priced and easy to browse. Despite being a tiny store, unlike any other music shop in town, there are actually a few listening stations here as well. With not a compact disc in sight, find a decent selection of used classics, but the emphasis is on new records from the 90s to today, especially hip-hop, indie and electronic music.QJ‑8, ul. Miodowa 4/7, tel. (+48) 794 99 98 08, www.paulsboutique.store. Open 12:0020:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun.

SHOPPING MALLS FACTORY OUTLET This outlet mall 15mins by car from the centre features 120 foreign and domestic brands - including Levi’s, Converse, Calvin Klein, Guess, Gino Rossi, Benetton, Tommy Hilfiger, Desigual, Pepe Jeans, New Balance, Timberland, Saucony, Marc O’Polo and more - at 30% off the prices you’d expect elsewhere.Qul. Rożańskiego 32, Modlniczka, tel. (+48) 12 297 35 00, www.krakow.factory.pl. Open 10:0021:00; Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-20:00. GALERIA KAZIMIERZ Opened in 2005 and recently refreshed, Galeria Kazimierz is Kraków’s most likeable shopping mall, boasting over 160 retail units including Guess, H&M, Reserved, United Colors of Benetton, Big Star, Zara and Swarovski, plus plenty of food options. For recreational needs GK also touts a cinema and fitness club. Easily accessed on foot, those arriving by car have 1,500 parking spaces to pick from (free on weekends, first 2hrs free Mon-Fri).QM‑8, ul. Podgórska 34, tel. (+48) 12 433 01 01, www.galeriakazimierz. pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. GALERIA KRAKOWSKA This is a hard one to miss, since it’s been sneakily incorporated into the train station. Covering 60,000m2 over 3 floors, among their 250 stores you’ll find H&M, Zara, Reserved, and Media Markt, plus 1400 parking spaces, and a bustling food court. The mall and large square in front of it also host frequent exhibits and events.QK‑4, ul. Pawia 5, tel. (+48) 12 428 99 00, www.galeriakrakowska.pl. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. PASAŻ 13 This gorgeous Rynek townhouse was converted into a snazzy upscale shopping area in 2005 to become the first branch of the Likus Concept Stores. Nicer than your typical mall, Pasaż 13 has over a dozen designer shops, including their own Likus Fashion Concept (a curated collection of top brands like Gucci, Saint Laurent, Marc Jacobs), Louve with Evolue (top Polish designers), Andre Grande, Nord Shoes Studio, Diesel and more, plus Louis Music Club & Pub and the L Concept 13 Bar & Restaurant (p.101). QI‑6, Rynek Główny 13, tel. (+48) 12 617 02 27, www. pasaz-13.pl. Open 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-17:00. 121

Health & Wellness

Even without a room at the 5-star Copernicus hotel, you can still enjoy their 5-star spa.

DENTISTS Not just handy info in an unforeseen dental emergency (these things happen, we know), Kraków has become a popular destination for ‘dental tourism’ thanks to the high level of service and professionalism, modern equipment and facilities, wide range of treatments available including orthodontics, bleaching, endodontics (root canal treatment), implant prosthetics and more - and all of this at very affordable rates. DENTA-MED Also at ul. Św. Gertrudy 4 (J-6) and ul. Augustiańska 13 (J9) - both open 08:00 - 21:00.QM‑9, ul. Na Zjeździe 13, tel. (+48) 12 259 80 00, www.denta-med.com.pl. Open 24hrs. DENTESTETICA QJ‑1, ul. Kamienna 21, tel. (+48) 887 05 05 01, www. dentestetica.com. Open 08:00-21:00; closed Sat, Sun.

PRIVATE MEDICAL CLINICS In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. The emergency room in PL is called SOR, and should only be visited if it is really necessary. In less urgent crises, we suggest you visit a private medical clinic (listed below) where you’ll get better service and avoid the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals. ARS MEDICA Located close to the train station.QK‑3, ul. Warszawska 17, tel. (+48) 12 423 38 34, www.ars-medica.pl. Open 08:00-19:00; Wed 08:00-10:00; closed Sat, Sun. 122

MEDICOVER Near Galeria Kazimierz shopping centre.QM‑8, ul. Podgórska 36, tel. 22 592 70 00, www.medicover.pl. Open 07:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-14:00; closed Sun.

SPA & BEAUTY Vacations are exhausting. The days are packed with activites from morning to night, these pretentious Europeans shame you into wearing uncomfortable footwear and then march you around their claustrophobic city centres proclaiming how wonderfully ‘walkable’ everything is, there’s no water anywhere, everyone puts their bags on the chairs instead of sitting in them which is crazy, and the streets of course are made out of round rocks called ‘cobblestones’ because you need a damn cobbler - something you’d only find in Europe - to fix your broken shoes afterwards, not to mention the feet inside them which are swollen, and who said this was wonderful its too much effort, just go to the spa and get a massage for godsakes. Phew. That’s better. COPERNICUS SPA BY L’OCCITANE Whether you’re a guest or not, you can still enjoy some of the exquisite amenities of Hotel Copernicus, including the exclusive spa in the hotel’s gorgeous Gothic cellars. In partnership with elite French cosmetics firm L’Occitane, the experience begins as soon as you enter and the scent hits your nose. Wellness treatments are offered for men and women, singles and pairs, including an array of facials and full body massages. Signing on for a spa treatment gets you free access to the sauna and swimming pool as well (otherwise off limits to non-guests).QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 34 22, www. copernicus.hotel.com.pl. Open 09:00-21:00.

Health & Wellness CHAIYO THAI MASSAGE CENTRE Improve blood and limphatic circulation, release physical and mental tension, strengthen the immune system, improve joint flexibility and remove toxins from your body with an authentic Thai massage, performed solely by highly qualified Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok. The offer includes classical Thai massage, herbal compresses, oil massages, feet and legs reflexology, back, shoulder and head massages, and more. Receive a 20% discount when you present In Your Pocket. Also at ul. Dietla 103 (K-7, tel. (+48) 12 422 65 49). QI‑6, ul. Grodzka 27, tel. (+48) 530 50 05 10, www. tajskimasaz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Massages 80-300zł. FEMMALIUM MED SPA Located close to ulica Wrocławska, this spa specialises in aesthetic medicine and beauty treatments, including icoone laser, mesotherapy, permanent makeup, lashstyling, manicures, pedicures, spray tanning, botox, massages, wax hair removal and laser depilation.QG‑1, ul. Poznańska 8, tel. (+48) 12 416 16 40, www.femmalium. eu. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. MARIACKI SPA Located just off the Rynek, with views of Mariacki Basilica, this spa and salon offers a wide range of massages, facials, peelings, manicures and pedicures, plus eyebrow shaping, eyelash lifting and henna for eyebrows. QJ‑5, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 668 09 93 88, www.mariackispa.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sat 09:00-20:00; closed Sun. TERMY KRAKOWSKIE FORUM Enjoy splendid views of Wawel Castle while completely naked, in public, without reprimand. The no clothes or swimsuits (only towels) policy of this new sauna complex applies to all areas - the two Finnish saunas, Turkish bath, hot tub, salt room, biosauna, infrared sauna, cooling area with ice chips and ice water, outdoor pool, and double VIP room. Special ‘seances’ - which involve a ‘sauna master’ pouring scented water over coals or smashing balls of ice while dancing around in a towel - take place every hour from 17:15. Cheeky indeed.QH‑8, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28, tel. (+48) 538 29 55 00, www.termykrakowskie. pl. Open 15:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-23:00. 35zł/1hr, 60zł/2hrs, 75zł/3hrs. All day 90zł. VANILLA SPA This luxurious spa in the centre of the five-star Niebieski Hotel is a palace of pampering for your mind and body thanks to a variety of holistic treatments in relaxing environs. Spoil your skin through a series of peels and masks using top of the line cosmetics and munch on organic ‘bio snacks’ courtesy of the Vanilla Sky restaurant between trips to the sauna, steam bath, and massage tables.QF‑8, ul. Flisacka 3 (Niebieski Art Hotel & Spa), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 04, www.vanillaspa.pl. Open 10:00-21:00. 123

Hotels

Hotel Unicus Palace

No matter your budget, thanks to Kraków’s ascent into elite status as a European destination, there is no lack of accommodation options in this fabled city. From fancy 5-star affairs to familiar franchises, boutiques to bed and breakfasts, historic apartments to some 60-odd hostels - you certainly shouldn’t struggle to find yourself a place to sleep. On our website - krakow.inyourpocket.com - we list literally hundreds of accommodation options in and around Kraków, with full descriptive reviews, photos, reader comments, GPS mapping and more. Unfortunately space constraints in our print guide no longer allow us to include all of that content here as we once did, however we still provide an updated list of reputable and comfortable places to stay below. Sleep well.

SYMBOL KEY

124

P Air conditioning

C‑1 Map Coordinate

F Fitness centre

H Conference facilities

K Restaurant

U Facilities for the disabled

D Sauna

L Parking available

6 Animal friendly

w Wellness

C Swimming pool

X Smoking rooms available

CREAM OF THE CROP AMBER DESIGN RESIDENCE QJ‑5, ul. Św. Marka 35, tel. (+48) 12 421 20 00, www. amberdr.pl. PHDF GRAND HOTEL KRAKÓWQI‑5, ul. Sławkowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 12 424 08 00, www.grand.pl. 64 rooms (9 apartments). PUL6KHDF hhhhh GRÓDEKQJ‑6, ul. Na Gródku 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 90 30, www.donimirski.com. 23 Total rooms. PUL6 KD hhhhh HOLIDAY INN KRAKOW CITY CENTER QK‑6, ul. Wielopole 4, tel. (+48) 12 619 00 00, www. hik.krakow.pl. 236 rooms (7 apartments, 1 Presidential Apartment). PUL6KHF hhhhh HOTEL COPERNICUS QI‑7, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 34 00, www. copernicus.hotel.com.pl. 29 rooms (8 suites). PL6 KHCDw hhhhh HOTEL STARY QI‑5, ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. (+48) 12 384 08 08, www. hotel.com.pl. 78 rooms (7 apartments). PXUL6 KHCDFw hhhhh

Hotels HOTEL UNICUS PALACEQJ‑5, ul. Florianska 28, tel. (+48) 12 201 01 01, www.hotelunicuspalace.pl. PU LKHCDFw hhhhh NIEBIESKI ART HOTEL & SPA QF‑8, ul. Flisacka 3, tel. (+48) 12 297 40 00, www. niebieski.com.pl. 40 rooms (2 apartments). PUL 6KHDFw hhhhh RADISSON BLU QI‑6, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. (+48) 12 618 88 88, www. bit.ly/RadissonBluKRK. 196 rooms (24 apartments). PUL6KHDFw hhhhh SHERATON GRAND KRAKOWQH‑7, ul. Powiśle 7, tel. (+48) 12 662 10 00, www.sheratongrandkrakow. com. 232 rooms (1 Presidential Wawel Apartment). PU6KHCDF hhhhh

UPMARKET AMADEUSQJ‑5, ul. Mikołajska 20, tel. (+48) 12 429 60 70, www.hotel-amadeus.pl. 22 rooms (2 apartments). PULKHDF hhhh AMBER BOUTIQUE HOTELSQI‑4, ul. Garbarska 8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 06 06, www.hotel-amber.pl. 38 Total rooms. PUL6HDF hhhh FRANCUSKIQJ‑4, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 666 19 58 31, www.hotel-francuski.com.pl. 42 rooms (15 apartments). 6KHF hhhh GALAXYQM‑8, ul. Gęsia 22A, tel. (+48) 12 342 81 00, www.galaxyhotel.pl. 205 Total rooms. PULKH CDFw hhhh GOLDEN TULIP KRAKÓW CITY CENTER HOTEL QI‑4, ul. Łobzowska 8, tel. (+48) 12 426 99 90, www. goldentulipkrakowcitycenter.com. 87 Total rooms. PU6KH hhhh HILTON GARDEN INN KRAKÓW QI‑10, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 33, tel. (+48) 12 399 90 00, www.hgi.com. 154 rooms (7 apartments). PUL6 KHF hhhh HOTEL INDIGO KRAKOW - OLD TOWN QJ‑4, ul. Św. Filipa 18, tel. (+48) 12 300 30 30, www.ihg. com/hotelindigo. ULKHD F hhhh HOTEL KOSSAKQH‑7, Pl. Kossaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 379 59 00, www.hotelkossak.pl. 60 rooms (5 apartments). PXU6KHDF hhhh HOTEL SENACKI QI‑7, ul. Grodzka 51, tel. (+48) 12 422 76 86, www. hotelsenacki.pl. 20 Total rooms. PUL6KF hhhh 125

Hotels HOTEL UNICUS QJ‑5, ul. Św. Marka 20, tel. (+48) 12 433 71 11, www. hotelunicus.pl. 35 Total rooms. PLKHD hhhh MERCURE KRAKÓW OLD TOWNQK‑4, ul. Pawia 18B, tel. (+48) 12 225 11 11, www.mercure.com. 198 Total rooms. PUL6KHF hhhh METROPOLO BY GOLDEN TULIP Qul. Orzechowa 11, tel. (+48) 12 448 36 36 , www. goldentulipmetropolokrakow.com. PTUL6K HDFw hhhh NOVOTEL KRAKÓW CENTRUM QG‑7, ul. Kościuszki 5, tel. (+48) 12 299 29 00, www. novotel.com. 198 rooms (6 apartments). PUL6 KHCDFw hhhh PARK INN BY RADISSON KRAKOW QH‑9, ul. Monte Cassino 2, tel. (+48) 12 375 55 55, www. parkinn.com/hotel-krakow. 152 Total rooms. PUL 6KHDFw hhhh POLSKI POD BIAŁYM ORŁEM QJ‑4, ul. Pijarska 17, tel. (+48) 12 422 11 44, www. donimirski.com. 60 Total rooms. PU6KH hhhh

MID-RANGE B&B HOTEL KRAKÓW CENTRUM QH‑9, ul. Monte Cassino 1, tel. (+48) 12 202 05 10, www.hotelbb.pl. PXUL6 hh BENEFISQH‑8, ul. Barska 2, tel. (+48) 12 252 07 10, www.hotelbenefis.pl. 20 Total rooms. PTU hhh CAMPANILEQJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 424 26 00, www.campanile.com. 106 Total rooms. PU6H hhh CLASSICQJ‑5, ul. Św. Tomasza 32, tel. (+48) 12 424 03 03, www.hotel-classic.pl. 31 rooms (5 apartments). PU6 hhh DAVID BOUTIQUE HOTEL QK‑8, ul. Ciemna 13, tel. (+48) 12 619 24 70, www. hoteldavid.pl. 21 Total rooms. PUKH hhh EDENQK‑8, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 65, www. hoteleden.pl. 27 Total rooms. PU6HD hhh FORTUNAQH‑6, ul. Czapskich 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 31 43, www.hotel-fortuna.com.pl. 27 Total rooms. UL 6H hhh

PURO HOTEL KRAKÓW KAZIMIERZ QL‑8, ul. Halicka 14A, tel. (+48) 12 889 90 00, www. purohotel.pl. PUL6KHDFw hhhh

HOTEL KAZIMIERZ QK‑8, ul. Miodowa 16, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 29, www. hk.com.pl. 38 Total rooms. P6H hhh

PURO HOTEL KRAKÓW STARE MIASTO QK‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 10, tel. (+48) 12 314 21 00, www. purohotel.pl. 138 Total rooms. PUL6KH hhhh

HOTEL KAZIMIERZ II QL‑8, ul. Starowiślna 60, tel. (+48) 12 426 80 70, www. hk.com.pl. 29 Total rooms. P6H hhh

Q HOTEL KRAKÓW Qul. Radzikowskiego 142, tel. (+48) 12 333 41 41, www. qhotels.pl. 89 Total rooms. PUL6KH hhh Q HOTEL PLUS KRAKÓW QH‑9, ul. Wygrana 6, tel. (+48) 12 333 40 20, www. qhotels.pl. 154 rooms (1 apartment). PUL6K HF hhhh QUBUS HOTEL KRAKÓW QL‑9, ul. Nadwiślańska 6, tel. (+48) 12 374 51 00, www. qubushotel.com. 194 rooms (1 apartment). PUL 6KHCDF hhhh SZEWSKA 22 BOUTIQUE QI‑5, ul. Szewska 22/7, tel. (+48) 731 75 76 79, www. szewska22.pl. P VIENNA HOUSE ANDEL’S CRACOW QK‑4, ul. Pawia 3, tel. (+48) 12 660 01 00, www. viennahouse.com. 159 rooms (6 apartments). PU L6HDF hhhh 126

HOTEL POD WAWELEM QI‑7, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. (+48) 12 426 26 25, www. hotelpodwawelem.pl. 48 rooms (1 apartment). PU L6KHD hhh HOTEL WAWELQJ‑6, ul. Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12 424 13 00, www.hotelwawel.pl. 38 rooms (1 apartment). PKHDw hhh IBIS KRAKÓW CENTRUMQG‑7, ul. Syrokomli 2, tel. (+48) 12 299 33 00, www.accorhotels.com. 175 Total rooms. PUL6K hhh IBIS KRAKÓW STARE MIASTOQK‑3, ul. Pawia 15, tel. (+48) 12 355 29 00, www.accorhotels.com. 135 Total rooms. PU6KH hhh KARMELQK‑8, ul. Kupa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 97, www.karmel.com.pl. 11 Total rooms. 6K hhh MATEJKOQJ‑4, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 47 37, www.matejkohotel.pl. 51 rooms (3 apartments). U6KH hhh

Hotels

127

Hotels NOBILTONQH‑6, ul. Piłsudskiego 25, tel. (+48) 12 430 10 25, www.nobilton.com. 21 rooms (1 apartment). UL6K hhh As a unique 3-star hotel located in a quiet part of Cracow just 5km from the Market Square, we offer silence and comfort to our many guests. Our hotel restaurant serves delicious Polish and continental cuisine, while our guests also have the use of an outdoor barbecue grill. We also offer a sauna and tanning bed.

Ul. Ruczaj 44, 30-409 Kraków tel. +48 12 269 10 00, fax +48 12 269 20 30 e-mail: ruczaj@ruczajhotel.pl www.ruczajhotel.pl

POLLERAQJ‑5, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 44, www.pollera.com.pl. 43 rooms (3 apartments). 6H hhh ROYALQJ‑7, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 35 00, www.hotelewam.pl. 63 rooms (3 apartments). PU6KH hhh RUCZAJ Qul. Ruczaj 44, tel. (+48) 12 269 10 00, www.ruczajhotel. com.pl. 49 Total rooms. PUL6KHD hhh SPATZ APARTHOTEL QJ‑8, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. (+48) 12 424 01 00, www. spatz.pl. 28 Total rooms. PT6K VIENNA HOUSE EASY CRACOW QN‑4, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. (+48) 12 299 00 00, www. viennahouse.com. 220 rooms (1 apartment). PUL 6KHDF hhh WIELOPOLE QJ‑6, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 14 75, www. wielopole.pl. 35 Total rooms. PU6K hhh

Hotel B&B Kraków Centrum ul. Monte Cassino 1, Kraków +48 12 20 20 510 krakow@hotelbb.com

WYSPIAŃSKI QK‑6, ul. Westerplatte 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 95 66, www. hotel-wyspianski.pl. 231 Total rooms. UL6KH hhh

BUDGET APARTHOTEL BASZTOWA QK‑4, ul. Basztowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 429 51 81, www. hotelsinkrakow.pl. 32 Total rooms. L6H IBIS BUDGET KRAKÓW BRONOWICE QB‑3, Al. Armii Krajowej 11a, tel. (+48) 12 626 11 45, www.ibis.com. 120 Total rooms. PU6 h IBIS BUDGET KRAKÓW STARE MIASTO QK‑3, ul. Pawia 11, tel. (+48) 12 355 29 50, www. accorhotels.com. 167 Total rooms. PU6 h

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www.hotelbb.pl 128

INDALO ROOMS QH‑7, ul. Tarłowska 15, tel. (+48) 501 08 84 34, www. cafeindalo.pl. 6 rooms (1 Suite). L6 TOURNET QJ‑8, ul. Miodowa 7, tel. (+48) 12 292 00 88, www. accommodation.krakow.pl. 23 Total rooms. 6 TRZY KAFKI GUEST ROOMS QH‑6, ul. Straszewskiego 25, tel. (+48) 12 632 48 56, www.trzykafki.pl. 19 Total rooms. 6 hh

Index If the venue you’re looking for isn’t listed, you’ll likely find it among the hundreds of places in Kraków listed on our website: krakow.inyourpocket.com 19th Century Polish Art Gallery 54 Adam Mickiewicz Monument 24 Administrative Buildings of the Sendzimir Steelworks 53 Alchemia 107 Alchemia od Kuchni 93 Amadeus 125 Ambasada Śledzia 81 Amber Boutique Hotels 125 Amber Design Residence 124 Aparthotel Basztowa 128 Archaeology Museum 54 Archdiocesan Museum of Cardinal Karol Wojtyła 55 Ars Medica 122 Art Restaurant 100 BAL 85 Balkan Express Grill 91 BaniaLuka 81 BARaWINO 110 Barbican 20 B&B Hotel Kraków Centrum 126 Benefis 126 Bernatek Footbridge 42 Bhajan Cafe 104 Bianca 96 Bishop Erazm Ciołek Palace 55 Bishop’s Palace & Papal Window 27 Bistro Durum 100 Blazko 119 Boccanera 98 Bottiglieria 1881 100 Bowlo 84 Browar Lubicz 100 Bubble Toast 107 Bunkier Cafe 93 Bunkier Sztuki Gallery of Contemporary Art 55 Cafe Bar Magia 86 Campanile 126 Cargo Grill & Deli 89 Carriage Rides 63 Cathedral Museum 33 Cathedral Ticket Office 31 Cawa Cafe & Wine 86 Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre 123 Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 86 Chimera Salad Bar 94

Chorąży Caps & Hats 120 Church of Saints Peter & Paul 28 Ciuciu Cukier Artist 65 Classic 126 Cloth Hall 26 Collegium Maius 27 Collegium Novum 27 Copernicus 94 Copernicus Spa by L’Occitane 122 Crown Treasury & Armoury 32 Cupcake Corner Bakery 86 Cytat Cafe 87 Czarna Owca Wino Bar 110 Czartoryski Princes Museum 56 Czerwone Korale 100 David Boutique Hotel 126 Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu 99 Denta-Med 122 DENTestetica 122 Dr Ziółko Cannabis Shop 118 Dworek Street Food Park 92 Dydo Poster Gallery 119 Eagle Pharmacy 45, 56 Ecotravel: Ojców Sleigh Rides 63 Eden 126 Eszeweria 107 Ethnographic Museum 56 Euskadi 46 Factory Outlet 121 Femmalium MED SPA 123 Filipa 18 Food Wine Art 101 Fiorentina Dom Polski 94 Floriańska Gate 22 Food Truck Square 92 Fortuna 126 Forum Designu 116 Francuski 125 Frankie's 94 Galaxy 125 Galeria Kazimierz 121 Galeria Krakowska 121 Galeria LueLue 120 Galicia Jewish Museum 40, 56 Gin Mill 108 GOkidz! 65 Golden Tulip Kraków City Center Hotel 125 Gorące Pączki 80 Gorzko Gorzko 112

Gospoda Koko 104 Grand Hotel Kraków 124 Gródek 124 Grunwald Monument 20 Hala Główna 108 Hamsa 99 Hard Rock Cafe Kraków 108 Hevre 108 High Synagogue 37 Hilton Garden Inn Kraków 125 Holiday Inn Krakow City Center 124 Home Army Museum 56 Hotel Copernicus 124 Hotel Indigo Krakow - Old Town 125 Hotel Kazimierz 126 Hotel Kazimierz II 126 Hotel Kossak 125 Hotel Pod Wawelem 126 Hotel Senacki 125 Hotel Stary 124 Hotel Unicus 126 Hotel Unicus Palace 125 Hotel Wawel 126 House Of Beer 109 HRC Kraków Rock Shop 120 Ibis Budget Kraków Bronowice 128 Ibis Budget Kraków Stare Miasto 128 Ibis Kraków Centrum 126 Ibis Kraków Stare Miasto 126 Ice Park 62 IDEA FIX Concept Store 117 Incredibile 98 Indalo Rooms 128 India Masala 92 Indus Tandoor 93 International Cultural Centre 55 Irish Pub Pod Papugami 109 Isaac Synagogue 37 Jama Michalika 87 Jan Matejko House 57 Jan Matejko Monument 22 Jerzy Duda-Gracz Gallery 52 Jewish Community Centre 39 John Paul II Centre 57 John Paul II Family Home Museum 71 Jonatan Street Kitchen 89 Józef Czapski Pavilion 58 Józef Mehoffer House 58 Judah Square Food Truck Park 92

Judaica Foundation 39 Karakter 94 Karma 85 Karma Coffee Roastery 87 Karmel 126 Ka Vegan Udon & Sushi 105 Kazimierz Historical Mural 37 Kazimir Restaurant & Bar 84, 101 Klezmer Hois 99 Klockoland 66 Klub Piękny Pies 109 Kolanko No. 6 94 Koliba Góralskie Przysmaki 80 Kościuszko Mound 61 Kowea Itim le-Tora Prayer House 36 Krako Slow Wines 110 Krakow Arcade Museum 66 Kraków Water Park 66 Kraków Zoo 66 Krakus Mound 48 Krowarzywa Vegan Burger 105 Kupa Synagogue 40 Lasota Hill 48 L Concept 13 Bar & Restaurant 101 Le Szapo 120 Liban Quarry 49 Lilou 119 Lipowa 3 Glass & Ceramics Centre 46, 58 Lost Souls Alley 63 Lost Wawel 32 Main Market Square 23 Mak Bread & Coffee 85 Malecon 95 Manggha 58 Manzana 46 Mariacki Spa 123 Mash Room 109 Massolit Books & Café 120 Matejko 126 Medicover 122 Mercure Kraków Old Town 126 Mercy Brown 110 Metropolo by Golden Tulip 126 MICET (Interactive Theatre Museum) 58 Międzymiastowa 95 Miód i Wino 102 Miód Malina 102 Molam Thai Canteen & Bar 90 Moo Moo Steak & Burger Club 89 Moo Moo Steak & Wine 90

129

Index Mural Food Truck Square 92 Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK) 47, 59 Nad & Greg French Bakery 46 Nadwiślańska 95 Nakryto 102 National Museum, Main Building 59 Natural History Museum 59 New Jewish Cemetery 36 Niebieski Art Hotel & Spa 125 Niewódka 110 Nobilton 128 Nota Resto by Tomasz Leśniak 96 Novotel Kraków Centrum 126 Nowa Huta Museum 53 Nowa Huta Underground: State of Emergency 53 Noworolski 87 N' Pizza 98 Observation Balloon 62 Old Synagogue 36

Oriental Art 32 Orzo 96 Palace of the Arts 55 Pancake House 90 Pan Tu Nie Stał 116 Papito's 104 Park Inn by Radisson Krakow 126 Pasaż 13 121 Paul's Boutique 121 Pharmacy Museum 60 Piec'Art 110 Pierożki u Vincenta 100 Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 81 Piotr Skrzynecki Monument 26 Pizzatopia 98 Plac Bohaterów Getta 45 Plac Centralny 52 Plac Izaaka 92 Plac Nowy 38 Plac Nowy 1 96 Plac Św. Marii Magdaleny 29 Plac Wolnica 41

FEATURES & CATEGORIES Art Galleries Breakfast & Brunch Essential Eats Fat Thursday & Herring Night Food Truck Parks Healthy Eats KL Płaszów Klezmer Kościuszko Mound Kraków IYP Online Late Night Eats Must-try Polish Alcohols Pierogi Polish Desserts Public Transport Skałka Stained Glass Street Art Sunday Shopping Ban The Hejnał The Jewish Ghetto The Planty The Wawel Dragon Traditional Polish Dishes Tytano Vice Advice Winter Warm-ups 130

55 84 78 81 92 94 49 99 61 19 104 107 100 87 15 41 67 47 118 24 44 22 33 82 108 112 98

Pod Aniołami 102 Pod Norenami 105 Pod Temidą 80 Pod Wawelem 103 Pollera 128 Polski Pod Białym Orłem 126 Popper Synagogue 36 Prozak 2.0 113 Przypiecek 104 Punca 117 PURO Hotel Kraków Kazimierz 126 PURO Hotel Kraków Stare Miasto 126 Q Hotel Kraków 126 Q Hotel Plus Kraków 126 Qualita Restaurant 103 Qubus Hotel Kraków 126 Radisson Blu 125 Ranny Ptaszek 84 Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery 36 Royal 128 Royal Crypts 33 Royal Private Apartments 31 Ruczaj 128 Rynek Podgórski 44 Rynek Underground 60 Sakana Sushi & Sticks 91 Schindler's Factory 47, 60 Sheraton Grand Krakow 125 Shine Club Kraków 113 Shisha Club by Bollywood 110 Sigismund Bell 33 Singer 111 Śledź u Fryzjera 104 Słowacki Theatre 23 Smaki Gruzji 92 SmaQ Brasserie 103 Spatz Aparthotel 128 St. Adalbert’s Church 26 Stained Glass Museum 60 St. Andrew’s Church 28 Stara Zajezdnia 111 State Rooms 31 St. Francis' Basilica 28 St. Mary’s Basilica 24 Święta Krowa 111 Scandale Royal 103 Skałka & the Pauline Monastery 41 Stara Pączkarnia 80 St. Martin's Hill 76 St. Mary's Church 76

Syncret 117 Szambelan 118 Szara 96 Szara Gęś 104 Szara Kazimierz 96 Szewska 22 Boutique 126 Taj 91 Tao Thai & Sushi 91 Teatro Cubano 113 Temple Synagogue 39 Termy Krakowskie Forum 123 The Former Mikvah 76 The Old Synagogue Bimah 76 Tournet 128 Town Hall Tower 26 Tram Bar 111 Truckarnia Food Truck Park 92 Trzcina 112 Trzy Kafki Guest Rooms 128 Trzy Rybki 96 Tytano 108 Ulica Pomorska & Former Gestapo Cells 61 ul. Kanonicza 29 ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 40 ul. Szeroka 34 Unikke Design & Friends 116 U Stasi 100 Vanilla Sky 94 Vanilla Spa 123 Veganic 105 Vienna House Andel’s Cracow 126 Vienna House Easy Cracow 128 Visiting Auschwitz 74 Wawel Castle 30 Wawel Cathedral 32 Wawel Visitor Centre 31 Weźże Krafta 112 Wieliczka Salt Mine - Miners' Route 73 Wieliczka Salt Mine - Tourist Route 73 Wielopole 128 Wódka Cafe Bar 112 World of Amber 119 Wow Krakow! 62 Wyspiański 128 Wyspiański Pavillion 28 ZaKładka Bistro de Cracovie 96 Zalipianki 104 Zazie Bistro 92 Zdzisław Beksiński Gallery 52

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang. Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand. Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls. Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry.

KRAKÓW, 27 Świętego Tomasza Street lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

10%

t n u disco

Present this card before placing the order to get 10% discount on food, beverages and merchandise with a minimum purchase of 99 PLN. Offer expires 30 Dec 2020. Not valid on alcoholic beverages, limited edition pins, charity or sale items. Not valid with other offers. One per person per visit. Valid only at Krakรณw location.

Krakow In Your Pocket - February - March 2020

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Kraków Day Trips