Lodz In Your Pocket - January - April 2018

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Łódź No. 36, January – April 2018

Your Guide to the City of Cinema

Jewish Łódź Walking Tour

p.6

EC1 - Leonardo Da Vinci Exhibition p.20 Róża’s Passage

No. 36 - 5zł

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p.65

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Contents

Łódź

Feature Jewish Łódź

p.6

Arrival & Transport

12

Shopping

70

City Basics

16

Directory

74

What’s On 18

Hotels

76

Cafés

22

Maps & Index

Restaurants

24

Nightlife

38

Street Index

44

Listings Index

85

Features Index

86

Manufaktura OFF Piotrkowska

55

City Map

80-81

City Centre Map

82-83 84

Sightseeing Essential Łódź Sightseeing

59 60

Hollyłódź

66

Leisure

68

iyp.me/polandblog

IN PRINT ONLINE ON YOUR MOBILE January – April 2018

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Foreword Aloha and Happy 2018! Welcome to the exciting world of Łódź (pr. Woodge) In Your Pocket. This central city is not the first place people choose to visit in Poland. In fact, most don’t know much about it. Those who find themselves in the city are in for a treat as they reap the benefits of seeing a city on the rise, yet still not fully on the travellers’ radar. From culture and fashion, design and architecture, to technology and education – Łódź is on the cutting edge. While Winter in Łódź can be both brutal and beautiful, it is the perfect time of year to explore the city on foot (such as our updated Jewish Łódź Walking Tour on page 6), or check out the city’s many indoor attractions, gastronomical offerings and social scene, all found in the pages of this guide. One of the best ways to get a feel for what’s going on, apart from reading Łódź IYP, is to attend some of the many exhibitions taking place over the next few months. We recommend the Leonardo Da Vinci: Energy of the Mind exhibition at EC1 (the building itself is worth seeing!), but there is always plenty going on in Łódź. Check out our What’s On section (page 14) for full details of all cultural events. Let us know what you think about Łódż, its events, or anything of interest you think we should know about, by contacting us on our Facebook page (/lodzinyourpocket. com) or just send us a good old-fashioned email: editor_ poland@inyourpocket.com.

Andrew Elliott, who has close ties to Poland, has been living here since 2016 when he finally decided to make the big leap from Scotland to get a more in-depth grasp of this fascinating country. Personal interests include astronomy, current affairs, food & drink, photography & videography! He even has a slight penchant for history.

Europe’s largest publisher of locally produced city guides PRINT

COVER STORY Isn’t this stunning?! You need to go see for yourself. This is Róża’s Passage (p.65) found at the beginning of Piotrkowska Street a great example of how urban art can transform an otherwise dull courtyard into something glorious.

Photo: Urząd Miasta Łódź.

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 10,000 copies published 3 times per year Sales Consultant: Bartosz Matyjas (+48) 784 966 824 Events & Marketing: Monika Boguszewska Stopka (+48) 882 079 723 Writer & Editor: Andrew Elliott Events Editor: Emilia Meres Research: Gabriela Mańkut, Aleksandra Mańkut, Patrycja Ples Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. and WIYP Sp. Z o.o. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

ONLINE

MOBILE

All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy

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Łódź In Your Pocket

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Jewish Łódź

Radegast Station | Photo: M.Kawczyński, Courtesy of Łódź City Council

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Jewish Łódź By the time Hitler launched his depraved campaign to expand Germany’s borders, the Jewish population of Łódź stood at 233,000 – approximately one-third of the town’s inhabitants, and a figure only surpassed by the capital, Warsaw. To trace the beginnings of Łódź’s Jewish heritage one must go back to the mid-18th century, a time when Łódź was little more than a sleepy hamlet. A census taken in 1793 noted the presence of eleven Jews out of a population that numbered 190, a figure that was to rise to 98 by 1809. By the 1840s over one-fifth of the city’s population was Jewish, and this would grow once more when in 1862 laws requiring Jews to live in the north of the city were repealed. Regardless, most Jews remained based around the Bałuty area (G-3) where cultural and religious life thrived; in the years leading up to the war Łódź could count 80 prayer houses, 31 Jewish primary schools, at least five newspapers and numerous theatre and exhibition spaces.

This world came crashing down on September 1, 1939, with the news that the Nazis had launched their invasion of Poland. Within eight days the city’s streets reverberated with the sound of jackboots, the triumphant Nazis greeted as heroes and liberators by the ethnic Germans of Łódź. Almost immediately the Nazis set about imposing restrictions on the Jews: on September 18th a decree was issued prohibiting the withdrawal of more than 250zł per week from bank accounts, and over the course of the next month Jewish businesses were forcibly signed over to the Germans.

Persecution gathered pace following Himmler’s visit on October 28 – in the week that followed the city’s main artery, ulica Piotrkowska, was made off-limits to Jews, and scores of intellectuals were rounded up before being executed in the Łagiewnicki Forest (G-1). Then, on November 9, the decision was taken to absorb Łódź into the Reich, thereby leaving it under the command of committed Nazi Artur Greiser. The terror escalated yet further, and within days synagogues were alight and bodies hanging in the street. On November 14 a curfew was imposed on Jews, and for the first time anywhere in the Third Reich Jews were compelled to wear a Star of David on their arm – failure to do so was punishable by death.

The New Year brought with it a fresh set of trials. On February 8, 1940, newspapers broke the news that Jews would be resettled in a separate ghetto in Bałuty. After two months of transition the area was sealed on April 30, 1940, following the completion of a barbed wire wall surrounding the area. No one except a few authorised officials could get in or out, and approaching the wall from either side brought instant death from a guard’s bullet.

Conditions inside the ghetto were poor - Jews lived an average 3.5 people to a room - though not nearly as bad as in the smaller and more crowded Warsaw or Kraków ghettos. Jews were also left more or less in peace for the early months of the ghetto’s existence, after the Nazi’s appointed Chaim Mordechai Rumkowski – a iyp.me/polandblog

prominent Jewish businessman – to run the ghetto on their behalf. He was given the pompous title Judenälteste (Elder of the Jews) and Rumkowski remains a controversial figure to this day. For a start few people know why he in particular was chosen by the Nazis to run the ghetto, and whispers seem to indicate he either bought or scammed his way into the position. Yet he began well: he tried to preserve as much normality as possible, setting up schools, a bureaucracy, printing ghetto money (which bore his image) and constructing a rudimentary sewage system. He also convinced the Germans to provide raw materials for the ghetto’s factories: the goods made at these factories were then bartered back to the Germans in exchange for food.

Yet the food was never enough for the 230,000 ghetto inhabitants, and people quickly began dying of malnutrition and disease. When the Nazis dumped as many as 30,000 Jews from other parts of Poland here in the autumn of 1941 conditions became intolerable. Worse was to come, however: in January 1942 deportations to the death camps began. Over the next three years around 200,000 Jews left the ghetto for the death camps. As the years and selections continued Rumkowski grew more maniacal; he saw the only way for survival to be the creation of a tireless, indispensable workforce. Those who couldn’t work were nothing but a drain on the meagre food reserves. And so it was that Rumkowski entered folklore in 1942 for imploring his people to surrender their children to the Germans.

No other ghetto in the Third Reich survived as long as the one in Łódź, but ultimately Rumkowski’s spurious efforts to ensure survival were to prove futile. In May 1944 Heinrich Himmler ordered the liquidation of the Łódź Ghetto, and over the course of the next few months the last 77,000 Jews were loaded into cattle waggons and sent to the gas chambers of Chełmno, Nerem and Auschwitz. Rumkowski left on the penultimate transport to Auschwitz, and according to some accounts was burned alive in a crematorium by workers who had recognised him. Historical records suggest that 5,000 - 12,000 ghetto habitants survived to see the end of the war.

USEFUL CONTACTS JEWISH COMMUNITY CENTRE & SYNAGOGUE Open for prayer and religious services plus a number of other services provided. The Jewish Information Office on site can help you find information about your Jewish roots in Łódź, how to find a family grave, or how to contact the rabbi, find out about times for shabes prayers and meals, or simply find about events being organised by the Jewish community in the city, which all are welcome to attend.QK‑3, ul. Pomorska 18, tel. (+48) 42 633 51 56, www.kehilalodz.com. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. January – April 2018

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Jewish Łódź POST WAR JEWISH ŁÓDŹ Many Jews who survived the Holocaust descended on Łódź at the end of the war and a new, thriving community sprang up. Though there were two major waves of statesponsored emigration to Israel (in 1948 and 1957-8) there remains a thriving Jewish community in the city, primarily based around the synagogue on ul. Pomorska 18 (K-3). Of all Poland’s cities, few have been as understanding and remorseful as Łódź when dealing with the legacies of the Holocaust.

THE GHETTO The Łódź ghetto was one of the largest Jewish ghettos set up in Nazi-controlled Europe. It stretched over much of the north-central part of the city, comprising the area north of Staromiejski Park (J-3), and out as far as the Jewish Cemetery to the east of the city. The area was chosen to host the ghetto as most of the city’s Jews already lived in the district; indeed there was little swapping of homes that fell on the wrong side of the wall between Jews and gentiles. The Łódź Ghetto is also commonly known as the Litzmannstadt Ghetto – on May 5, 1940 the city of Łódź was renamed ‘Litzmannstadt’ in honour of the German general who (unsuccessfully) attempted to occupy Łódź in World War I. TRACES OF THE GHETTO The area which once formed the ghetto is today covered with Socialist Realist leftovers, as well as whole swathes of buildings that seemingly haven’t seen a lick of paint since the Germans left. It’s a real rundown part of the city. On the plus side, the intrepid explorer will be rewarded by a moving trip back in time. Filled with forgotten courtyards and derelict doorways, it’s not hard to feel the ghosts of the past as you walk the streets of Łódź’s now silent Jewish quarter. Before setting off it’s worth bearing in mind a couple of points: firstly, you will be covering a distance of approximately 7 kilometres, so it’s probably best not to attempt this in the middle of summer with a computer bag strapped to you. Finally, while it is often suggested to start at the Rynek before concluding your tour at Radegast Station, a logical route for those who wish to follow the chronological history of the ghetto, it’s certainly not the most practical. Radegast is in the middle of nowhere, so to get the most out of your day we suggest starting the tour here by taking tram no.6 from stop Piotrkowska Centrum (or anywhere along Al. Kościuszki and Zachodnia street, which run parallel to Piotrkowska street) to the end of the line at Doły, a journey of roughly 30 mins. The tram journey alone takes you through the district of Bałuty, giving you a feel for the area - this is also the same route you will follow back during the tour, and handy if you get tired of walking; just jump back on the tram and continue with the tour or return to the city centre. Once at Doły, continue along ul. Strykowska and turn left onto ul.

Inflancka (crossing the road). Keep to your right until you see the signs and path leading to Radegast.

8

Łódź In Your Pocket

JEWISH ŁÓDŹ WALKING TOUR 1 RADEGAST STATION

Photo: A. Wach, Courtesy of Łódź City Council

As with many Holocaust sites across Eastern Europe, Radegast Station, from where as many 200,000 Łódź Jews left for the death camps of Chełmno and Auschwitz, has been thoughtfully restored as a place of remembrance.

Three original Deutsche Reisebahn cattle trucks stand poignantly at the station’s platform with their doors open, as if another trainload of Jews is imminent. Though most visitors are tempted to enter the wagons, almost none actually do. Elsewhere there are large signposts, in the shape of headstones, denoting the destinations of the trains which left here: Stutthof, Ravensbruck, Chełmno, Auschwitz. There are also plaques commemorating the Jews of Vienna and Luxembourg, who were transported to the death camps after transiting through the ghetto.

There are now two permanent exhibitions in the museum: “Litzmannstad Getto 1940-1944” and “Kufer Rodziny Schwarz” and one temporary exhibintion “Our Stolen Childhood 1939-1945” about martyrdom of kids in Łódź.

Continue along the alley to see some poignant murals of children (you’ll see more later at stop no. 3) from the Jewish ghetto before returning in the direction of Doły tram stop as it is near here you will enter the Jewish Cemetery. QAl. Pamięci Ofiar Litzmannstadt Getto 12, tel. (+48) 42 291 36 27, www.muzeumtradycji.pl. Exhibits can be viewed 09:00 - 17:00; Wed, Thu 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 16:00. Closed Fri. Admission free. For groups of 10 or more guided tours in English are 30zł. Please book in advance by calling (+48) 42 291 36 27 or (+48) 795 41 20 02.

Jewish Cemetery

Courtesy of Łódź City Council

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Jewish Łódź 2 JEWISH CEMETERY Once approaching the Doły tram stop, walk down ul.

Zmienna, a quiet side street that leads straight to the largest Jewish cemetery in Europe, which holds 180,000 graves, with many laid to rest inside ostentatious tombs that are works of art themselves (including the biggest Jewish mausoleum which belongs to Israel Poznański). Less ceremonious was the burial of the 45,000 or so Jews who died in the ghetto – you’ll find them interred in the so-called ‘Ghetto Field’ in the south of the cemetery. This is where the ‘clean-up squad’ of around 800 Jews who had remained to clear the ghetto were forced to dig their own graves. The Nazis, surprised by the speed of the Soviet advance, didn’t have time to carry out the execution, and the empty graves have been left as eerie reminder. We recommend you pick up ‘The Children of Bałuty’ (stop no.3 of the tour) mural map from the ticket office. As you exit, continue down Zmienna as it curves around the cemetery onto Bracka and onward to ul. Przemysłowa. Qul. Bracka/ul. Zmienna, tel. (+48) 42 656 70 19. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Saturdays and on all Jewish Holidays. Admission 9/7zł, children under 12 free; free first Sunday of every month.

3 THE CHILDREN OF BAŁUTY - MEMORIAL MURALS The Children of Bałuty (Dzieci Bałut) records, in mural form, the real images of children (created using archive images of the time) that were interned within the children’s camps in the northern district of Bałuty, around ul. Przemysłowa. All confined within the Jewish Ghetto territory, the separate sub-camps were for, respectively, Jewish, Polish and Roma children. Between 05-12 September 1942, 15,681 people - ill, old and the majority of the children were deported to, and murdered, in the Kulmhof camp (in Chełm). The murals are found in many locations around the former ghetto and can be found using the map you picked up at the Jewish Cemetery, alternatively, you can download an interactive app from their site, detailing all mural locations. Now get back to ul. Bracka and continue walking toward Park im. Szarych Szeregów. Qul. Przemysłowa 12, www.dziecibalut.pl.

4 CHILD MARTYRS MONUMENT

Of the former camps, today only a former admin building remains of the camp for Polish children at ul. Przemysłowa 34, though a large memorial can be found in Park Szarych Szeregów, at the entrance near ul. Bracka.

Depicting an emaciated figure staring through a cracked white heart, the monument is dedicated to the 1,600 children who iyp.me/polandblog

were processed through the camp once found on these grounds. Beatings and hard labour were standard here, and it is estimated that over 130 children died while in custody, many due to starvation. Head through the park and along ul. Głowackiego to reach ul. Wojska Polskiego, then turn right again and walk to ul. Franciszkańska (along the way you’ll see more murals of the children of Bałuty), taking a left before reaching ul. Wolborska. Walk along the park’s edge until you see a monument. QPark im. Szarych Szeregów.

5 DECALOGUE MONUMENT The Decalogue Monument is appropriately placed in Staromiejski Park at the point where two former synagogues were located: Łódź’s original ‘Old Synagogue’ and later the Alte Szil Synagogue. Unveiled in 1995, the monument shows Moses holding the tablet of the Ten Commandments and was designed by Kazimierz Gustaw Zemła. Built in 1809, the Old Synagogue was the first wooden synagogue in Łódź, but by 1854 services were ceased due to fears that the building would collapse. By 1871 the new concrete synagogue Alte Szil was built on the same ground and was considered one of the greatest synagogues in all of Poland. It was rebuilt in 1893 and sported various styles such as Byzantine, Moorish Revival and Romanesque Revival. Sadly, but hardly surprising, the Nazis robbed and burned Alte Szil in November 1939, with nothing remaining of the once-dramatic synagogue.QJ‑2, Park Staromiejski near ul. Wolborska 20.

6 THE GHETTO BRIDGES Continue onward until you get to the corner of the park and ul. Zgierska then stop. The ghetto entirely surrounded Łódź’s major market, Bałucki Rynek (to the north), which the Nazis were keen to keep open. To achieve this the Nazis sealed off the market and its access roads, allowing traffic to come and go without entering the ghetto. In effect this created two separate ghettos. These were split by the market at ul.

Zgierska, and linked by three bridges: two ran over ul. Zgierska and another linked the divided street of ul. Zachodnia. The bridges have become a symbol of the ghetto, and appear on all ghetto literature. One bridge was where you stand now, on the corner of ul. Zgierska and ul. Podrzęczna. QJ‑2, Crossing of ul. Zgierska and ul. Podrzęczna.

7 THE RED HOUSE Head back to ul. Podręczna 2, at Stary Rynek, turn left and walk straight until you get to ul. Kościelna 8/10. Few addresses inspired as much fear in the ghetto as this, known as the ‘Red House,’ it was commandeered by the Kripo (Criminal Police) as a headquarters to combat smuggling.

In reality it was allowed to turn into a brutal interrogation centre, where those suspected of illegal activity would be tortured in the basements. Today the building is the property of the nearby Church of the Assumption of Our Blessed Mary, with only the plaque outside suggesting the sinister purpose the building once served. A priest will give you a tour of both the Church and the Red House.QJ‑2, ul.

Kościelna 8/10, tel. (+48) 42 657 02 37. Call in advance on Tuesdays to arrange a tour.

January – April 2018

9

Jewish Łódź 8 CHURCH OF THE ASSUMPTION OF OUR BLESSED MARY Completed in 1897 this red brick neo-gothic masterpiece saw its fair share of hard times during the ghetto years. In 1942 it was used as a warehouse to store the clothes of those gassed in Chełmno and Nerem, after which it became a feather factory employing slave Jewish labour. Surrounding it are several surviving points of interest: The postal service and main treasury were located on pl. Kościelny 4/6, while next door a pharmacy operated from number 8.QJ‑2, ul. Kościelna 8/10, tel. (+48) 42 657 02 37, www.mariacka-lodz.com.pl. Open during mass only or by prior arrangement (call on Tuesdays).

9 ZACHODNIA STREET After the church, head along ul. Lutomierska and turn right onto ul. Zachodnia. By this time you’re going to be caked in sweat, dirt and dust from all your historical exploring, but do persist. The building found at number 14 is where Rumkowski made his notorious speech calling for mothers and fathers to hand their children over for ‘transportation.’ The area was something of a hotbed for ghetto activity, and it was in its incarnation as Hamburgerstrasse that it touted a Department of Housing, Employment Office, Juvenile Court and a Department of Economics as well as the ghetto fire brigade and the HQ of the Jewish Police, the latter being a particularly zealous organisation whose 1,000 members were frequently prone to corruption and double dealing.

They were established by Rumkowski on April 11, 1940 and worked with the German police to maintain order in the ghetto. None of the buildings that served these institutes survived the post-war bulldozers, though a stone tablet has since been placed here marking the arrival spot of 1,000 Jews from Hamburg in 1941.QI‑1, ul. Zachodnia 14.

10 OLD JEWISH CEMETERY After admiring the Stalin-era monstrosities that were hastily built on top of the former Jewish area, cross the street and heading down ul. Bazarowa you’ll note an overgrown triangle of parkland, nowadays popular with winos and other scapegraces. Towards the far pointed end is a small stone set in the grass, its inscription missing (something to do with the aforementioned winos, we’d guess). This marks the spot of the ghetto gallows. From there head up ul. Rybna, passing a couple of former factories, before turning in at ul. Rybna 11A. Walk past the basketball court, and you’ll once more find a stone with a missing plaque.

This is all that is left to denote that the area was once Łódź’s oldest Jewish cemetery. Established in 1811, and operating until 1892, the cemetery was the final resting place for over 13,000 people and covered a quite large tract of land extending between Limanowskiego, Bazarowa, Rybna and Zachodnia streets. During the Holocaust the tombs were ripped up and used for paving stones, though the bodies remained underground (dig hard and you’ll still find bones).QI‑1, ul. Rybna 11.

10 Łódź In Your Pocket

11 SCHUPO AND GESTAPO HQ Continue to the end of ul. Rybna and turn right, heading straigth to ul. Limanowskiego 1. While it might be hard to picture today, this was once the home of the Gestapo and the Schupo, which kept tight and merciless control over the ghetto. Several stories you’ll read recall how German sentries would delight in shooting at Jews for sport, as a June 1941 order allowed officers to fire without warning at any Jew trying to leave the ghetto was liberally abused. A plaque erected on this building on the 40th anniversary of the ghetto liquidation commemorates the fate of the 200,000 Jews and 20,000 gypsies.QJ‑1, ul. Limanowskiego 1.

12 BAŁUCKI RYNEK Right across the street is Bałucki Rynek. Described by Oskar Singer as the “heart and brains of the ghetto,” this was where all the principle offices of the ghetto administration were based – including Rumkowski’s custom-made barracks. It was also the logistics hub of the whole area, where food arrived, and where goods made in the ghetto left. The Rynek was separated from the rest of the ghetto and could only be accessed with a special pass. Today it’s hard to get a feel for what was once here, and nowadays anyone penetrating the market square is liable to leave blinded by the plastic gizmos and general detritus on sale.QJ‑1, Rynek Bałucki.

13 REICHER SYNAGOGUE And now for the final destination, which is actually in the the city centre. Head back down ul. Zgierska, through Park Staromiejski and straight down ul. Kilińskiego. Take the second right onto ul. Rewolucji 1905 and head to no.

28. Through the gate is the oldest surviving synagogue in the city, built between 1895 and 1900 by the Reicher family foundation which only survived the Second World War because it was used for storing salt. The war did unfortunately destroy the interior as well as an allegedly lovely Star of David stained-glass window. A plaque on the east wall commemorates the synagogue’s founder who starved to death in the Łódź Ghetto. The Nissenbaum and Lauder foundations renovated the shrine in 1989. Religious services are no longer held here, but can be attended at Jewish Community Centre and Synagogue (K-3).QK‑4, ul. Rewolucji 1905r. 28, tel. (+48) 42 633 51 56, www. jewishlodz.org.pl. Open by prior arrangement with Jewish Community.

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Arrival & Transport

Time travel through town on a vintage tram.

In spite of being Poland’s third largest city Łódź’s links to the outside world leave much to be desired, though the birth of the budget flight has at least opened a few new routes.

Travelling to other destinations in Poland, barring Warsaw that is, can be a trial. Fortunately once you’re here you’ll find the city has a well-developed tram and bus network as well as a bountiful supply of cheap taxis. If you’re traversing Piotrkowska, the principal high street, then take advantage of one of the dirt-cheap rickshaws that zip up-and-down the street.

BY TRAIN With the city lying in the centre of the country, Łódź is a crossroads for many of the rail networks covering the country. To handle the traffic Łódź has three stations - Kaliska (generally for east/west routes) and Widzew (north/south routes). The third major station is the new Łódź Fabryczna, which is the biggest and most central of the three. It is also currently a dead end with all trains terminating here, although that will change once the connecting tunnel to Łódź Kaliska is finished in 2022.

With the opening of Fabryczna the main Łódź - Warsaw line has also undergone a major overhaul and high speed connections will now whisk you to the capital in under 90-minutes. You can take trains directly from Łódź to most major Polish cities but the speed on many can be slow and minor delays are standard. At present a 250km journey to Kraków will take anywhere from two and a half to four hours. Gdańsk, 370km away, will take around 5 and a half hours. It is worth checking the useful website www. rozklad-pkp.pl for the best connection.

12 Łódź In Your Pocket

ŁÓDŹ FABRYCZNA TRAIN STATION On December 12, 2016 the first train rolled into the newly designed Łódź Fabryczna Central train station after a 5 year hiatus. This was a monumental and indeed historic moment for the city and the region as the new station not only offers new connections and modern conveniences, but it is the very heart of the city’s plan to rejuvenate the entire city center alongside the EC1 buildings.

The new Łódź Fabryczna is one of the most modern railway stations in Poland. The main roof is a giant arched canopy made up of 10,000 glass and metal panels that are strategically placed to reflect and refract the most amount of sunlight directly down into the station. The pristine and polished granite floors of the wast wing meet a giant polished black ‘obelisk’ which houses several ticket offices where you can buy tickets for PKP Intercity, Regional Transport and Łódź Agglomeration Railway trains (ŁKA). On the other side of the “obelisk” there are several islands so to speak - one press stand and two cafes (Dunkin’ Donuts!).

Łódź Fabryczna

iyp.me/lodz

Arrival & Transport The second level, or -1 as we would call it, is 16.5 meters under ground and has four platforms and eight tracks.

The current train schedule will handle roughly 125 trains per day and the capacity is around 150. At the moment Fabryczna is a terminus station meaning all trains end here, however there is already a plan in motion to build a 6km tunnel underneath the west part of the city center to connect Fabryczna with Łódź Kaliska, the second biggest station. This plan is phase two of the city’s ambitious railway restructuring plan and is targeted for completion in 2022.

The east wing of the station is different in character from the west wing and is flanked by facades of large white townhouses which are a nod to the old Fabryczna station and instead of a single glass canopy they are covered by glass buttresses. In the townhouses there are ticket offices a commuter rail (ŁKA) Passenger Centre and in the northeast part there are lockers as well as ATMs an infopoint and the regional Bus Station. The east entrance takes you out to Targowa street and just a few minutes walk to the EC1 buildings.QL‑6, Pl. Sałacińskiego 1, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. ŁÓDŹ KALISKA TRAIN STATION Łódź Kaliska offers all the essentials – an ATM, toilets and kiosks that sell Łódź transport tickets and mobile phone needs. Those who need to purchase a train ticket should allot extra time as the agents are slow and lines meandering (there is an automated machine near the ticket office, which is handy). A taxi rank outside will get you to the centre of the city for 15-25zł. Cheapskates can get the number 10 or 12 tram at the Dworzec Łódź Kaliska tram stop and get off at the Sienkiewicza (8 mins) or Kościuszki (15 mins) tram stops for quick access to Piotrkowska.QF‑9, Al. Unii Lubelskiej 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl.

Open 24hrs. Note that, due to system maintenance, seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00.

BY PLANE As Poland’s third largest city Łódź gets its fair share of air passengers, and with a brand new terminal the experience of flying in to and out of the city has gotten increasingly more pleasant (well, as pleasant as flying can be, anyway). ŁÓDŹ WŁADYSŁAW REYMONT AIRPORT Łódź Władysław Reymont Airport (Port Lotniczy Łódź im. Władysława Reymonta) opened a new terminal in June 2012 that significantly enlarged the airport’s capacity and which now handles all arrivals and departures. Inside you’ll find Hertz, Enterprise, Europcar, Sixt, Avis and Panek, ATMs to withdraw Polish currency and several places to grab food and drink or a cup of coffee. You can also do some shopping in the well stocked duty-free shops (Aelia, Keraniss).

GETTING TO/FROM THE AIRPORT: The Airport is located around 6-10km from Łódź city centre. By car it’s around 20 minutes and by public transport is about 20-40 minutes. Taxis hover outside the arrivals terminal and a journey to the centre is around 20-40zł. Two taxi companies, Taxi 400 400 (42 640 04 00) and Taxi Plus (800 50 05 00) are permitted to pick up from the airport and can be trusted. The bus stop is directly outside the main entrance with bus no.

88A taking you straight to the main street, Piotrkowska (bus stop ‘Struga - Piotrkowska’), and onward to the revamped central train station Łódź Fabryczna. Buses run every 20-30 minutes and a single 60 minute ticket costs 4.40zł (reduced 2.20zł).Qul. Gen. Stanisława Maczka 35, tel. (+48) 42 683 52 55, www.lotnisko. lodz.pl.

ŁÓDŹ WIDZEW TRAIN STATION Łódź Widzew enjoyed more traffic while Łódź Fabryczna was being upgraded. Now that Fabryczna has reopened it will also see continued traffic as a commuter hub for all points East and North. Widzew was modernised recently and now includes a waiting room with toilets (also for disabled), an ATM, press kiosk, café and snack bar plus unreliable Wi-Fi. If you want to save on cab money and take a tram to the city centre, walk the 200 metres to the Puszkina Rondo Inwalidów tram stop (from ul. Służbowa walk to ul.

Adamieckiego and turn right onto ul. Rokicińska and you’re there) - take trams 3 or 8 to get to Piotrkowska Centrum in 20 mins. If you don’t want to walk far, just outside the station, catch buses 75A, 75B or 82B from the Dworzec Łódź Widzew bus stop and get off at the Piłsudskiego - Konstytucyjna bus stop and then catch trams 8, 10A or 10B to Piotrkowska Centrum tram stop. The whole journey takes around 30 mins.Qul. Służbowa 8, tel. (+48) 22 391 97 57 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl.

Open 24hrs. Note that, due to system maintenance, seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00. iyp.me/polandblog

January – April 2018

13

Arrival & Transport

BY BUS Most Bus travellers to Łódź are once again dropped at the new central Łódź Fabryczna Bus station although some may still be routed to Łódź Kaliska Station which is a 15-20 minute trip from the center. ŁÓDŹ KALISKA BUS STATION Express and international buses depart from Łódź-Kaliska (there is parking in front of the post office) and international tickets can be purchased from the booking office which is open daily 10:00 - 17:15 (the domestic ticket office is open daily 5:30 - 19:30). There is no left luggage, but you will find toilets and kiosks for transport tickets and mobile phone needs.

In addition to Kaliska there is another bus station, Dworzec Północny PKS, located at ul. Smugowa 30/32 where you can catch more local buses. Note that all buses to Warsaw leave from Kaliska. Departure locations for buses to Lublin and other destinations should be checked via the website or phone number that are listed under Łódź Kaliska bus station. For more local destinations head to the Łódź Regional bus station in the eastern part of the new Łódź Fabryczna train station.

GETTING TO TOWN If you arrive at Łódź-Kaliska you have your choice of taking a taxi from the rank outside or cheaping out and taking the tram. Take tram 10 to get to the neighbourhood of Piotrkowska. Bus 88A is also an option, taking you to ‘Struga Piotrkowska’. Make sure to check the latest tram and bus prices on www.mpk.lodz.pl before your trip.QF‑9, Al. Włókniarzy (parking in front of the post office), tel. (+48) 42 631 97 06, www.pks.lodz.pl.

BY CAR In the last decade, the road quality issues in Poland have been addressed with EU directives and funding, however, the work is definitely ongoing. The issue of the condition of the road and rail networks were cited by many experts as being a serious handicap to the development of the Polish economy but then EURO 2012 and EU funding thankfully lead to steady but noticeable infrastructure changes.

For someone taking to the road today the following warnings should be taken into account. Generally, you will most likely stick to high-speed and good quality motorways or expressways, but do remember, once you leave these roads onto old single lane roads, you will be driving amongst anything from a sports car to a tractor.

This results in frustrated/impatient drivers overtaking each other at high speed and then braking sharply to avoid oncoming traffic. Be warned and keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front. Indeed, despite the overall road improvements, Poland is still one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, statistics that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here.

Also, beware of the hard shoulders of these roads, the vast majority of which are unlit at night. These are often used as pavements by local people who add to the Russian roulette by venturing out at night wearing their darkest 14 Łódź In Your Pocket

The Polish Fiat, or ‘Maluch’ - produced in PL from 1972-2000; considered a family car during the communist era.

clothing. Add in the odd drunk on a bike and these hard shoulders become a very real problem when facing a set of headlights bearing down on your vehicle.

For those brave enough to venture out on the road, the following information should be noted. Poland has strong drink-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/ alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer.

EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as they are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licenses invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone we know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry your license and passport at all times when driving.

The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/ hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All cars are required to carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs and a national identity sticker. A new law was introduced in April 2007 making it compulsory to have headlights switched on at all times. Car related crime is high and drivers should make use of guarded car parks where possible.

ARRIVING BY CAR Connecting Łódź with the outside world are the E75 running north, the E30 going north east, the west bound A2, the south running E75, and road number 72 heading to the east. Once in Łódź the first thing you’ll notice is the treacherous state of many of the roads, and you’d be advised to make sure the shock absorbers are in full working order. Car crime in Poland is rife, and we fully suggest taking advantage of one of the two guarded car parks in the city. If you’re parking on the street you’ll be paying one of two rates from 8:00 - 18:00 (Mon - Fri): Zone A: 1,50zł (first 30mins), 3zł (first hr), 3,50zł (second hr) 4zł (third hr) 3zł (fourth and every additional hr). Zone B: 1zł (first 30 mins), 2.50zł (first hr), 3zł (second h), 3,50zł (third h) 2,50zł (fourth and each additional hr).

GUARDED PARKING QJ‑2, ul. Łagiewnicka 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 657 67 84.

GUARDED PARKING QM‑4, ul. Sterlinga 21, tel. (+48) 791 55 33 32. iyp.me/lodz

Arrival & Transport CAR RENTAL AUTO MIESZEK Full range of Ford cars available for rental in 1-2 day increments, 3-4, 5-7 and longer periods. Transits and combis also on offer, as well as online booking.Qul. Obywatelska 181, tel. (+48) 601 68 96 05, www.mieszek. com.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Sun open on request.

AVIS Avis, the global leader in car rentals, offer short and long rental cars, vans and chauffeur driven vehicles, including everything from small city cars to shared vans. Over 1,000 models are available with all equipped with air conditioning, airbags and ABS to ensure both comfort and safety. Flexible terms of cooperation from experts in professionalism, convenience and safety. City centre location. Also available at the airport upon request.QH‑9, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź), tel. (+48) 607 03 63 08, www.avis.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Sat, Sun open on request.

EUROPCAR Europcar is one of the biggest car rental companies and offers eight different categories of vehicles to choose from.

The airport location makes it easy to nab a car and dash.

Qul. Gen. Stanisława Maczka 35 (Airport), tel. (+48) 42 253 14 04, www.europcar.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Outside of these hours open by prior arrangement.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Łódź can boast a well-developed network of bus and tram routes that traverse the city, however at the moment transit is very much under construction - to the point where running our usual tram map doesn’t make sense. Be aware that delays are prevalent and factor extra time into your journey. The comprehensive website at www.mpk.lodz.pl features full English translation of content, including timetables for all routes, general information and ticket prices. A brief exploration of the website will reveal that venomous animals are banned from public transport, as are people who are ‘slovenly, scruffy or give off an offensive smell’.

Reassuring, but in reality completely untrue. Tickets (bilety) can be purchased from most streetside kiosks and some onboard machines, and must be validated upon boarding the tram or bus by punching them into the metal boxes (kasowniks) found next to the doors.

Failure to do so will result in a 108zł fine (if paid in 7 days; after it goes up to 270zł) if you’re caught by one of the undercover ticket inspectors. Prices are currently as follows: 2.80zł (1.40zł) 20 minutes 3.60zł (1.80zł) 40 minutes ​4.40zł (2.20zł) 60 minutes iyp.me/polandblog

One day passes (valid till 23:59 that day) can be purchased from kiosks (Zone I: 11zł / 5,50zł Zone I + II: 13,20zł / 6,60zł).

Both trams and buses usually operate from 05:00 until 23:00 after which night buses (marked with an N) serve the city.

TAXIS Taxis in Łódź are generally trustworthy although you should guard against unscrupulous drivers by going for taxis which have clearly displayed prices (normally found in the rear passenger window). As a yardstick rates should be around 6zł the moment you get in and then around 2zł per kilometre. You should expect to pay approximately 50% more at night and on Sundays and public holidays.

A standard day fair to/from the airport from the centre of Łódź will cost around 20-40zł.

MERC RADIO TAXI Qtel. (+48) 58 624 17 17, www.taxi-merc.com.pl.

MPT TAXIQtel. (+48) 42 191 91, www.19191.org.

TAXI 400 400Qtel. (+48) 42 640 04 00, www.400.pl.

TAXI DWA DWA Qtel. (+48) 42 196 22, www.800300200.pl.

TAXI NOVA Qtel. (+48) 42 611 11 11, www.taxinova.pl.

SAY MY NAME Can you think of a 4 letter word which throughout history has caused so much shock, embarrassment and sniggers of laughter? (No, not that one, naughty boy - get to the back of the class!) Actually, we were alluding to ‘Łódź’ and Łódź Coat of Arms, 1577 its seemingly inconceivable pronunciation. Surely if you want to visit a place, let alone buy a ticket to get there, you should at least be pronounce the name of said place with confidence.

Most English speakers anglicise the city’s name to something akin to “Lodge;” we hate to break it to you, but this is completely wrong, try again. It really isn’t that hard and we’ll even help you out: The key is obviously figuring out how to pronounce these alien-looking Polish letters. There’s only four of them, so here we go: The Polish ‘Ł’ is pronounced like an English ‘W,’ the ‘ó’ is pronounced like an English ‘oo,’ and (to simplify a bit) the Polish ‘dz’ letter combination is pronounced like an English ‘j’ or ‘dge’ as in ‘ledge.’ So let’s hear it - stand up straight, take a deep breath and bellow it out: Woodge, Woodge, WOODGE! January – April 2018

15

City Basics FACTS & FIGURES

MARKET VALUES

TERRITORY Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and, Ukraine (529km).

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of January 04, 2018 based on €1 = 4.16zł

LONGEST RIVER The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at 1,047km and flows through Kraków and Warsaw before reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska).

HIGHEST POINT The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the Tatra Mountains to the south of Poland.

POPULATION (2016) Poland - 38,483,957 Warsaw - 1,744,400 Kraków - 761,100 ​Łódź - 700,982 ​Wrocław - 635,800 ​Poznań - 542,300 ​Gdańsk - 462,249 ​Katowice - 301,834 LOCAL TIME Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Łódź it’s 06:00 (AM) in New York, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.

ELECTRICITY Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from the US, UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug converter. The best place to pick these up is in your home country, though if you do arrive without a converter try your luck with your hotel reception; they should be able to point you to an electrical store if they can’t provide a converter themselves.

McDonald's Big Mac Snickers candy bar 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr beer (shop) 0.5ltr beer (bar) Loaf of white bread Pack of Marlboro cigarettes 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) Local transport ticket (1 journey)

10.20 zł 1.75 zł 23.99 zł 3.29 zł 8.00 zł 2.79 zł 15.50 zł 4.95 zł 4.40 zł

€ 2.45 € 0.42 € 5.77 € 0.79 € 1.92 € 0.67 € 3.73 € 1.19 € 1.06

hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay.

The lines are active year round with later hours during the high-tourist season.

For urgent medical emergencies, a list of Emergency Rooms can be found in the Directory on page 76. If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories of some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling a private clinic (p.77), thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals. Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which you’ll find on page 76.

LAW & ORDER In general Łódź is safer than most West European cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets; if you’re in a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Perhaps the biggest danger in Łódź is posed by groups of drunken football hooligans who can be easily avoided and heard coming a mile away.Those travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Also avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs who display their prices in the window.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following: Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997.

English, German and Russian speakers have separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: +48 608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are 16 Łódź In Your Pocket

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS January 1, 2018 January 6, 2018 April 1, 2018 April 2, 2018 May 1, 2018

New Year’s Day Three Kings Easter Sunday Easter Monday Labour Day iyp.me/lodz

City Basics Staying on the right side of the law is significantly easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the law. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to Łódź’s premier drunk tank (ul. Kilińskiego 232), which unlike other cities is a rehabilitation clinic for addicts that can involve a 6-24 hour stay.

Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding public transport without a ticket (see p.13) and, silly as it seems, by jaywalking. If you are from a country which doesn’t have or respect jaywalking laws, you may be surprised to see crowds of people standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to change. The reason for obeying this little rule is the fact that local city police will quite freely give you a 100zł fine for crossing at a place where no crossing is marked, or a 100zł fine for crossing when the light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by being a visitor. In fact your non-residency simply means you will need to pay the fine on the spot.

LANGUAGE SMARTS

RELIGION

Basic Pronunciation

According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 95% of Poles are Roman Catholics. And though that figure is based on baptisms and the number of actual practising Catholics is probably closer to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one of the most religious countries in Europe. For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity.

When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the Church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand.

In fact, many Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm for the Church a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time, and the droves that flock to mass. Tourists should remember while visiting Łódź’s many churches that these aren’t museums, but active places of worship to be treated with the requisite respect.

WATER Though officially stamped as safe to drink, hypochondriacs and others with a weak constitution may want to avoid drinking Polish tap water; indeed, locals will still scold you for drinking from the tap. The antique plumbing in many buildings can affect the water quality, so - despite our honest belief that the water is fine - to play it safe we recommend you just drink bottled water, which is widely available and inexpensive. iyp.me/polandblog

Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Many are also adept at other European languages with German being the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’ the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a reasonable understanding.

Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal, often resulting in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in Łódź and may even win you friends and admirers.

On the downside, Polish is one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)! ‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry

Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobry Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri) (Doh-bri vyeh-choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

My name is...

I’m from England.

Do you speak English?

I don’t speak Polish.

I don’t understand.

Two beers, please.

Cheers!

Where are the toilets?

You are beautiful.

I love you.

Please take me home.

Call me!

Mam na imię...

Jestem z Anglii Czy mówisz po angielsku?

Nie mówię po polsku.

Nie rozumiem.

Dwa piwa proszę.

Na zdrowie!

Gdzie są toalety?

Jesteś piękna.

Kocham cię.

Proszę zabierz mnie do domu.

Zadzwoń do mnie!

(Mam nah ee-myeh…)

(Yehstem zanglee) (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)

(Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)

(Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)

(Dvah peevah prosheh.)

(Nah zdrovyeh!)

(Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)

(Ko-hahm chuh.)

(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.)

(Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

Airport Train station Bus station One ticket to…

Lotnisko Dworzec PKP Dworzec PKS Jeden bilet do…

(Lot-nees-ko) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess) (Yeh-den bee-let doh…)

January – April 2018

17

What’s On

Leonardo da Vinci Exhibition: The Energy of the Mind (p.20)

EVENTS BY DATE 27.01 » BEDNAREK: TALIZMAN TOUR

Polish reggae and dancehall artist Kamil Bednarek is hitting up multiple stages across the country promoting his newest album, Talizman. Awarded the title of “Artist of the Year” at the 2017 Eska Music Awards after snagging an impressive amount of nominations—namely, in every possible category—Bednarek is running in full force, bringing 9 concerts to the table across Poland in 2018.

QH‑9, Wytwórnia Club, ul. Łąkowa 29, Tickets 5979zł available at www.ticketclub.pl, www.stodola.pl, www.ebilet.pl, www.eventim.pl, www.ticketpro.pl, www.biletomat.pl, www.biletyna.pl.

22.03 » NATALIA PRZYBYSZ | MIKROMUSIC | ODET

Platinum-selling, award-winning Polish R&B artist Natalia Przybysz is coming to Łódź and bringing some strong female talent along with her. She will be joined onstage by trip-hop group Mikromusic, known for skilfully fusing influences of jazz and rock with the occasional sprinkling of folk music. The group’s lead vocalist, enigmatic, charismatic, and super-talented Natalia Grosiak is one of the reasons for the group’s ever-growing fan-base and recognisability within today’s music scene. In addition, pianist, vocalist, and writer Odet will also be joining the stage as part of this female-forward concert. Balancing elements of lyrical melancholy with humour, this cheeky artist plays with 18 Łódź In Your Pocket

iyp.me/lodz

What’s On contrasts and appeals to the innately human quality of contradiction and change.QH‑9, Wytwórnia Club, ul. Łąkowa 29, Tickets 75-85zł, www.pwevents.pl.

23.03 » ILLUSION

WWW.PWEVENTS.PL FB.COM/AGENCJAPWEVENTS

Illusion is undoubtedly one of the most important rock bands in the country, dating back to 1992. Their first concert was in Gdańsk, with members Tomasz Lipnicki, Jerzy Rutkowski and Paweł Herbasch. That same year Jarosław Śmigiel joined the group and they have had the same band line up ever since!QTickets 55zł, www.pwevents.pl.

07.04 » THE KELLY FAMILY: WE GOT LOVE

The famous, eclectic, vagabond Irish-American-European music group known to pretty much the whole world as The Kelly Family will be hitting stages in Gdańsk, Łódź and Kraków this year as part of their We Got Love tour. With over 20 million sold albums under their belt, over 50 of the most important awards in music in their (collective) arms, and even more gold and platinum albums combined in their impressive repertoire, these guys know what they’re doing. Consider this concert less as a musical performance and more as an invitation to travel along the journey of 40+ years in music... with some unforgettable performances to boot.QE‑9, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, Tickets 119299zł, www.eventim.pl.

18.04 » THIRTY SECONDS TO MARS

Referred to as “the best performance band in the world,” this veteran rock band has quite the hefty title to live up to—and it does, delivering stellar performance after stellar performance for sold-out audiences in stadiums and large concert halls all over the world. The band has taken home multiple awards, sold over 15 million copies of their albums, and even beat a Guinness World Record for executing the longest concert tour in history. In 2018, Thirty Seconds to Mars embark on their European tour and are set to perform in over 30 different venues and cities across the continent.QE‑9, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, www.livenation.pl.

NATALIA PRZYBYSZ MIKROMUSIC | ODET 22.03.2018 KLUB WYTWÓRNIA

EXHIBITIONS 15.11 - 04.02 » BARBARA ROSIAK: PRINTS & PAINTINGS (40 YEARS OF CREATIVE WORK)

Łódź-born and bred by some of the finest arts schools and professors in the city, Barbara Rosiak is most known for her etchings and multi-coloured prints, which will, of course, be included in the exhibit. In addition, for the first time in this museum, this exhibit will also include her more recent works consisting of oil paintings, pastels and watercolours. Celebrating 40 years of creativity, Rosiak’s work has been displayed in over 100 collections around the world, and she has had over 30 of her own exhibitions.

She’s also won multiple international awards as part of various contests in France, China, Italy, and Poland. This exhibition provides a retrospective look at Rosiak’s 40-year career in the arts.QI‑3, Museum of the City of Łódź, ul.

Ogrodowa 15, tel. (+48) 42 254 90 11, Admission 12/8zł, www.muzeum-lodz.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

ILLUSION

TRASA PROMUJĄCA NOWY ALBUM "ANHEDONIA"

23.03.2018 KLUB SCENOGRAFIA bilety: www.pwevents.pl, ticketmaster, eventim, biletomat, ebilet January – April 2018

19

What’s On 06.12 - 05.04 » A LOOK AT ŁÓDŹ: WHAT MAKES FOR A GREAT CITY?

Łódź is a city with a notoriously sub-par, less-than-stellar rep. If you ask around, it won’t take you long to find a fellow Łódź-critic who will tell you that the city is defined by an inherently unhappy nature, hanging over the heads of its residents like a dark, threatening stormcloud. Aptly nicknamed the “Manchester of Poland,” Łódź is a former industrial centre that also happens to be Poland’s thirdlargest city. And therein lies the rub: the unkempt and uninviting city centre, its large and sparsely spread-out precincts characterised by post-industrial architecture leave much room to be desired—especially in terms of the city’s walkability, accessibility, and sense of culture and community. Aesthetically speaking, it wouldn’t be wrong to say that Łódź is a bit starved, or at least appears this way on the surface-level. At some point over the years, the city started being referred to as “The Great Łódź,” which begs the question: what makes for a “great” city? Is it dependant on distance, size, space? This exhibition reflects upon this question, and in doing so opens the doors to many other topics concerning the history and associated development of the city. Many accompanying events have also been organised as part of this exhibition, such as organised curatorial tours, an educational programme for people of all ages, and various discussions featuring urbanists, architects, and historians open to the public (but in Polish).QI‑3, Museum of the City of Łódź, ul. Ogrodowa 15, tel. (+48) 42 254 90 11, Admission 5/7zł, www.muzeum-lodz.pl.

The best Łódź has to offer

in one great app

01.12 - 01.06 » LEONARDO DA VINCI: THE ENERGY OF THE MIND

If you’ve ever wanted to peer inside the mind of creative genius Leonardo da Vinci, you might want to make this exhibition your next stop. Over 70 pieces and multimedia products are on display, including historical models, interactive installations, films, and current examples of bioinspired robotics, aviation and materials technology. The collection takes you through the journey of da Vinci’s creative process, starting from rough initial concepts, to sketched out drafts, through to final (and in some cases, still incomplete) models. Universally dubbed a creative genius, the scientist, inventor, and engineer fostered a unique relationship between the inner workings of his technical imagination and the inspirations the external world. This exhibition aims to bring that intricate relationship to the forefront while passing on extended knowledge concerning da Vinci himself.QL‑6, EC1, ul. Targowa 1/3, www.ec1lodz.pl.

Admission: Tue-Fri 39/24zł, Sat-Sun 49/29zł.

30.06 - 18.02 » MATERIAL REBELLION

If you brush up on your knowledge of Łódź, you’ll find that the city has quite the reputation as a hub for all things textile- and tapestry-related. This exhibition provides an overview through 15 editions of the International Triennial of Tapestry in Łódź—the most important (and currently, the only) event of its kind in the world focused on artistic textiles. The various works of homegrown and international artists will be displayed; demonstrating the diverse range of possible outcomes in dealing with this medium. The exhibition is also enriched with an array of accompanying events. For more inspiration on the roots of the exhibit, read the curatorial text.QK‑12, Central Museum of Textiles, ul. Piotrkowska 282, tel. (+48) 42 683 26 84, Admission 12/8zł. Thu free for permanent exibitions., www.muzeumwlokiennictwa.pl.

27.10 - 04.02 » MONTAGES: DEBORA VOGEL AND THE NEW LEGEND OF THE CITY

www.iyp.me/app

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

20 Łódź In Your Pocket

Vogel (1900-1942) was a member of the Artes Association of Artists and Designers, a group of artists in Lviv greatly inspired by French art, and predominantly focused on avant-garde, surrealism, and modernism (as opposed to naturalism)—even incorporating elements of architecture into their work. Today, Vogel is being rediscovered as an important avant-garde writer, critic, and theorist of art. She mostly worked with montage and photomontage—so the element of layering, contrasting, and combining is heavily displayed in this exhibition. The element of the city is focused on Lviv—an integral city to Vogel’s story and creative journey.

Lviv was the city in which Vogel worked, created, influenced, and was influenced by—and ultimately, the city in which her life ended (she was murdered in the liquidation of the Lviv ghetto in 1942). The exhibition contextualises Vogel’s works and surrounding aesthetic from the mid-1920s through the 1930s, featuring examples of abstract art, street surrealism, and various experiments leading to social realism. These works are contextualised against the backdrop of Lviv and illustrated by documentary photographs, artefacts, representations, and iyp.me/lodz

What’s On

remaining traces of the consumerist philosophy that was beginning to emerge in the city at that time.QI‑5, Museum of Art in Łódź - ms¹, ul. Więckowskiego 36, tel. (+48) 42 633 97 90, Admission 10/5zł, www.msl.org.pl.

24.11 - 25.02 » ORGANISERS OF LIFE: DE STIJL, THE POLISH AVANT-GARDE AND DESIGN

As some of you may know, 2017 marked 100 years of the avant-garde movement in Poland. As a result of this momentous occasion, exhibitions celebrating the avantgarde movement were popping up in museums all over the country and throughout the year. All good things must come to an end, however—but not before we’re given the chance to check out Muzeum Sztuki’s last exhibit as part of their centenary commemoration series. This particular exhibition focuses on the Dutch connection— namely, it presents various Polish avant-garde groups and artists crossed with De Stijl (meaning “the style”), a Dutch movement also known as Neoplasticism. This particular exhibition features about 130 pieces: sculptures, paintings, drawings, scale models, reconstructions, and archive photographs, which have been brought in from various museum collections in Eindhoven, Rotterdam, Utrecht, Amsterdam, Brussels, Wrocław, Warsaw, Berlin, Łódź, as well as from various private collections.QI‑5, Museum of Art in Łódź - ms¹, ul. Więckowskiego 36, tel. (+48) 42 633 97 90, Admission to permanent exhibitions 10/5zł students 1zł, www.msl.org.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

What’s going on? facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket 28.09 - 14.01 » SANYOFICATION: THE MIRACLE OF REPRESENTATION (IGOR KRENZ)

Perhaps not all of us are well-versed in physics—nor are we able to explain in detail (or, let’s face it: even in generally evasive terms) how dimensions work, how many planes of existence there are, and how all these different realms affect one another. All that aside, we do all know a thing or two about TV—if only in so much that we’ve experienced what it’s like to watch a 3D box display a 2D image referencing a 3D world that “is” but somehow “isn’t” all at once. Krenz refers to this as the 2.5-dimensional world: it isn’t flat, but it isn’t entirely 3D either. He explores the intricacies of this world, and in how it relates to contemporary art itself through a deeper look at the medium of TV. As it turns out, this everyday object of culture brilliantly serves as a springboard for exploring complex relationships like abstract vs. figurative, material vs. immaterial, poetry vs. prose, object vs. background, and even art vs. curation.

QI‑5, Museum of Art in Łódź - ms¹, ul. Więckowskiego 36, tel. (+48) 42 633 97 90, Admission to permanent exhibitions 10/5zł, www.msl.org.pl.

January – April 2018

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Cafés

Łódż has plenty to offer, including something for those with a sweet tooth.

CAFE VERTE The little alleyway leading into the courtyard may not be the most attractive in Łódź, but Verte certainly is one of the quaintest cafes in town. Think of old local cafes in Vienna, Berlin or, if your imagination can take you there, a coffee house in pre-war Poland. Verte neatly avoids the ‘repro’ look of many venues which try to make links to the past. A true Aladdin’s cave of old and beautifully crafted furniture, antique decor and adding a touch of decadence, a selection of framed Witkacy photographs from the 1920’s-30’s. The smaller room is also used for a programme of seriously arty photography exhibitions.QK‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 113/115, tel. (+48) 507 08 40 07. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. U­G­S­W CHATKA ECH Touting the most unique design in town this place has a nutty cottage design that features teddy bears and prams, antiques and oddities, a piano guests can play on and features a mural by Ryszard Paprocki (he’s a big deal). To call it original would be an understatement and it’s no wonder that it’s a favorite film location for Łódź’s budding film school auteurs. This cycle friendly complex is home to book signings and readings, concerts and exhibitions and they even provide English and Italian language tours of Łódź (call for more info)! To top it all off you’ll find an exhaustive selection of teas and coffee – both the expected and the exotic. An added bonus: they now serve wine and liquor!QK‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 112 (entrance from Al. Schillera), tel. (+48) 533 21 80 03, www.chatkaech.pl.

Open 12:00 - 21:00. T­6­E­G­S­W 22 Łódź In Your Pocket

CHLEBAK Sharing a premises with the Kawiks meat shop, the little bakery area is squeezed in by the door and is easy to miss, especially when it gets obliterated by the queues to the adjoining meat counters. It would be a shame to miss out though, as Chlebak sells some splendid natural breads, including traditional rye, sour dough and linseed. Their cakes are also proving very popular and it’s been a long time since we spotted a lemon meringue pie anywhere in Poland. Fresh sandwiches using seasonal fillings are also available to go. The only improvement they could make would be to find a better space. Also located at ul.

Piotrkowska 273.QJ‑4, ul. Zachodnia 67, tel. (+48) 785 99 89 69. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Mon 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun. G­S GRAND COFFEE This centrally located cafe is spacious and sophisticated with a true warmth that makes you want to consume the morning paper along with your latte. If the buck of stars was to finally gallop into Łódź, Grand could feasibly give them a run for their pumpkin-spiced money. With over 40 coffee beverages, coffee cocktails and shakes to choose from, deciding on your drink will make you think. They also have a decent breakfast and dessert menu that swings to the sweeter end of the spectrum (vegan cakes, croissants etc.) Amidst all the foams and sugary treats the coffee itself feels a bit lost. While our flat white was only just good, the cafe itself is truly Grand.QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 72, tel. (+48) 696 38 33 87. Open 08:00 - 21:30, Fri, Sat 08:00 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. T­6­G­S­W iyp.me/lodz

Cafés KAWIARNIA SŁODKIE SŁÓWKA (BEAN&BUDDIES) Located through a gate on Łódz’s longest street (where else?!), but nearer the southern end at 276, right across from the church (tilt your head and the spire looks like a chicken). Find the cafe about 30 metres from the gate and walk on down into the cosy interior. Created by four friends with a passion for good quality coffee who felt their neighbourhood lacked a good cafe, so they opened their own! Here you’ll find a fine selection of coffee from carefully selected Arabica beans from Brazil, Burundi and India as well as Brazilian Robusta. Despite being imported from around the world, the coffee is roasted in Poland (which you can also buy on their site)! A variety of tea & coffees are also on offer ranging from 5-11zł, along with squeezed juices, sandwiches, salad boxes and sweet treats.QK‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 276, tel. (+48) 516 80 69 24. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. T­G­S­W LITERA CAFE Bringing together coffee and books has always been a winning combination and Litera has been at the forefront of this niche in the city for some time now.

This recently renovated and relaxing café is decorated with a red colour scheme, giant wallpaper like vintage photos of Łódź streets and tables featuring maps of the city from various years throughout history is an extremely popular venue for bibliophiles, coffee lovers and fans of their fantastic homemade cakes. The café also plays host to literary events, readings and group meetings.QK‑8, ul. Nawrot 7, tel. (+48) 42 637 08 99.

Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. 6­G­W MONTAG Tucked away in a courtyard behind Piotrkowska, Montag is a simple and stylish artisan bakery and café which specialises in the art of bread making.

Ten types of sweet and savoury breads make up the products available daily and small samples are laid out on the counter so that you can try before you buy.

Special edition breads are also made for occasions like Easter or Valentine’s Day. The café is one long, heavy wooden table surrounded by pastel coloured plastic seating. Enjoy a cake and a coffee while watching the master baker kneading his dough behind a large glass window.QJ‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 107, tel. (+48) 608 63 25 32. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. T­6 ­G­S­W PRZĘDZA COFFEE/BAR Our ‘bean-hound’ was so taken with this specialist coffee bar that he wanted to keep it a secret, but what would be the point of that? The selection of beans all come from small Polish and International bean roasters and arrive at the café within days of being roasted. Notes on the coffees in stock are available, or just chat with coffee guru Piotrek. Beans, aeropress devices and chemex coffee iyp.me/polandblog

makers are available to buy. ‘Leafies’, are also well catered for with a fine range of exotic teas. Oh, and don’t forget the popular cakes which are all homemade! Make sure to check the ever changing photo exhibits on the walls while you sip your drip (all photos available for purchase as well).QJ‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 107, tel. (+48) 605 10 16 04. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. T­6­ G­S­W NEW SURINDUSTRIALLE Steampunk fans rejoice, for you have a haven in Łódź! It’s hard not to be impressed even before you enter this little cafe-gallery, for outside there are pieces of funky works to admire, ranging from a cool chair to a big hand! The interior is much the same - great for gawking at (and sitting on!) when you have a nice cup of coffee or tea, of which you have a wide selection. A great place to chill out in that definitely leaves a good impression. If you’re now in the mood for funky art, visit the Odlot Gallery in the same courtyard.QK‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 118A, tel. (+48) 604 53 50 98, www.surindustrialle.pl. Open 15:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. 6­G­ S­W THE BRICK COFFEE FACTORY The alternative coffee trend continues to flourish in Łódź and this petite Piotrkowska outpost turns out some of the best jumpin’ java juice around. Whether you appreciate your aeropress brewed upside down or not, these talented baristas have all sorts of delicious coffee tricks up their sleeves and are happy to make suggestions when they see you getting lost in their lattes. They keep it simple on the food front though and only offer cakes and cookies to go with your well crafted cuppa. They are really into accessories however so you may end up leaving with a travel mug or two. All told, we’ll go out on a limb and say The Brick has the best coffee on Piotrkowska.QK‑8, ul.

Piotrkowska 136, tel. (+48) 570 63 01 36. Open 12:00 20:00. 6­G­S­W ZET CAFE Being located in the legendary Łódź film school makes it the perfect place for budding young cineastes to visit.

Plop yourself down, like a nonchalant Polański, on one of the welcoming couches to enjoy their exquisite coffees, cakes, salads, sandwiches, light dishes (including vegan and vegetarian options) and freshly pressed juices. The café also plays host to numerous talks by interesting people from the cultural scene and live music events.

QM‑9, ul. Targowa 61/63, tel. (+48) 42 275 59 67.

Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. 6­U­G­W

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App January – April 2018

23

Restaurants

Just look at this Chinese food and the way it’s served - the authentic touch at Złoty Imbir (p.26)

sanctuary with its selection of pizzas, and other Italian favourites too.

You need to approach the Łódź restaurant scene with an openness and understanding that the gastronomy industry is still quite young. That doesn’t mean there’s not some absolute gems, but you may have to wade through some murky waters to find them. Just to note - we do approximate price ranges for you but they are subject to change, naturally. Likewise the opening hours in Łódź are rather a mere suggestion; don’t be put off if the doors are closed during a slow day but conversely you can expect the chefs and staff to power through regardless of the late hour come a busy night service.

COUPLES The new kid on the block MOTYWY (p.30) is a strong choice for dates as it lacks that uncomfortable snobiness and instead provides inventive menus and inviting interiors. Ato Sushi (p.34) could easily be called the best restaurant in the city and the interactive, playfulness of sushi will always be a cute first dater.

SPLURGE Voted one of the 100 best restaurants in Poland, Quale (p.30) was awarded top honours by the prestigious Gault & Millau dining guide. Definitely more upmarket than most, with excellent food to match. Tango (p.26) will give you the best steak in Łódź guaranteed - the luxury does match the pricing.

LADS Esplanada’s (p.28) ‘lad-ness’ can be summed up by its Monday beer offers and ridiculous food portions.

Surprisingly the quality does match the quantity on most occasions. Breadnia’s (p.28) large tables, great food not to mention the frequency of gorgeous girls makes it a great place for guys on the town.

EXOTIC Istanbul Tajmahal (p.28) has recently been catapulted into local fame simply because its food speaks for itself - for both carnivores and vegetarians alike. Złota Kaczka (p.26) needs to be checked out, because it fails to do what every other ‘asian’ place in the city does - cause indigestion and guilt. Thankfully.

LOCAL Try Piwnica Łódzka (p.37) if you want a sense of what Polish people are actually eating, and Chłopska Izba (p.36) if you want a sense of what Polish people are known for eating.

KIDS It’s nice to find good pizza in Łódź, especially when it’s a firm favourite with the kids. Pomodoro (p.33) offers 24 Łódź In Your Pocket

CHEAP Italica (p.32), naturally being mainly a pizza joint, produces something rather inexpensive but in this case, hand on heart great. Check out Manekin’s (p.34) huge savory and sweet crepe selections that are cheap as chips. iyp.me/lodz

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY G No smoking

T Child-friendly

6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

S Take away

U Facilities for the disabled

V Home delivery

X Smoking room available

E Live music

W Wi-fi connection

AMERICAN BOBBY BURGER As the burger trend holds steady in Łódź, the Polish chain that is Bobby Burger has moved in. Within a rather burger saturated area of town it takes a certain level of quality to make an impression amongst locals. First off, this place is actually good - it’s consistent, fresh, clean, with friendly and efficient staff. The choice is comfortable, in the sense that there’s isn’t a Turbacon, pineapple, bbq, nutella, sausage, dreamt up concoction. It’s open late, for those that require its services at 3am. On a side note, order at the counter and now you can order alcohol with your burg!QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 59, tel. (+48) 881 66 07 08, www. bobbyburger.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (12-30zł). 6­G­ S­W GASTROMACHINA STACJA These guys have done it. Famous from their Food Truck that usually stands near or around Piotrkowska 217, this is their long awaited stationary location! Centralised and well designed it has a best-in-town and impressive stance towards burgers. They come up with some weird creations that appear in weekly special form and boast a firm standard when it comes to the classics. Cheesus Christ Superstar hits a spot I didn’t know existed as does MegaMachina if you fancy a Man vs. Food styled challenge. The staff/owners also have a great non-hipster approach to it all, so don’t be intimidated. But remember - MEDIUM/RARE. That is all.QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 89, tel. (+48) 537 03 91 98. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (10-32zł). 6­G­S­W NEW WALL STREET BBQ Entering Wall Street is not an invitation to fight the large yellow bull near the entrance, a homage to the same charging bull found in New Yoik’s financial district. It is, however, an invitation to eat some top burgers and steaks!

The interior is funky, in a black and yellow colour scheme, with natural wood mixed in along with some large artwork on the walls and some neon lights dotted around, all contributing to the chilled out feel of the place. Watch, if you so choose, your food being made in the open plan kitchen.

The food hosts a fine selection of meats, done according to your preference from rare to well done, with a top selection iyp.me/polandblog

THE BEST STEAKS AND BURGERS IN THE CITY RESTAURACJA WALL STREET PIŁSUDSKIEGO 10, 90-051 ŁÓDZ OPEN: 12:00–23:00 TEL. +48 607 676 207 WWW.BISTROWALLSTREET.PL

TIPPING TRIBULATIONS Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuję,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back.

This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and the payment.

Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity).

As such, we encourage you to reward good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change.

January – April 2018

25

Restaurants of drinks and cocktails to go with it all. The lunch menu is served Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00, consisting of either a main dish and soup/drink for 19.99zł or main, drink and soup/dessert for 22.99zł.QK‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 10, tel. (+48) 607 67 62 07, www.bistrowallstreet.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (26-90zł). T­6­G­S­W

ARGENTINIAN

THE BEST STEAKS

OF THE HIGHEST QUALITY ARGENTINIAN BEEF GRILLED IN A TRADITIONAL WAY

BY A NATIVE ARGENTINEAN

TANGO ARGENTINO STEAKHOUSE Returning to Łódź from his native Argentina, chef Franco Cambareri vowed to bring a little part of home back with him. His passion for authentic grilled Argentinian steak and love of traditional tango music come together brilliantly in his glamorous little steakhouse. The finest beef is imported directly from Argentina, grilled to perfection and served up with his signature chimichurri sauce. The short menu really emphasises the speciality nature of the restaurant. The interior sticks to a classic look; deep red walls, dark furniture and a collection of tango based artworks/vintage posters brought from home. The cracking Argentinian and Chilean wine list is also unique to the city.QK‑6, ul. Traugutta 14, tel. (+48) 726 29 77 25, www.tangosteakhouse.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, (Children under age 2 aren’t allowed). (37-144zł). G­S­W

CHINESE ZŁOTA KACZKA Set around landscaped oriental gardens Złota Kaczka stands out as the best Chinese food in town, so it’s a bit of a shame you’re going to have to head out of town to get there. Your efforts to find it are rewarded by a top menu that far exceeds the glow-in-the-dark goo served in more central establishments, and if ever you needed evidence of this then snatch a look at their guest list. Previous diners number Robbie Williams and John Malkovich, as well as a fair spread of lesser known Polish celebs and politicians. Ring in advance if you wish to sample the giant Peking duck for two.

And don’t leave the kids at home; not only do they get their own menu but there’s also a special kids corner and indoor playground to keep them entertained.Qul. Rąbieńska 53 (Polesie), tel. (+48) 42 712 64 03, www. zlotakaczka.lodz.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (19-58zł).

T­U­I­V­G­S­W

UL. TRAUGUTTA 14

9 0 - 1 0 7 Ł Ó D Ź

RESERVATIONS: (+48) 726 29 77 25

E-MAIL: STEKI.WINO@TANGOSTEAKHOUSE.PL

W W W.TA NG OS T E AKH O USE.P L

26 Łódź In Your Pocket

ZŁOTY IMBIR Opening the door to this unassuming little restaurant on a Friday afternoon we were astounded to find it packed!

Initial suspicion regarding the two elderly and tough looking waiters in black shirts and red bowties were soon put to rest as they turned out to be that rare breed - old school gents and masters of their profession. Orders were taken quickly and the food arrived after a short wait.

Not only was the service brilliant but the food was also some of the best Chinese we have had in a long time; everything was fragrant, well presented and packed with iyp.me/lodz

Restaurants flavour.QK‑6, ul. Sienkiewicza 39, tel. (+48) 690 51 69 00, www.zlotyimbir.com.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (14-39zł). T­U­V­ G­S­W

CZECH CESKY FILM RESTAURANT & PUB The first restaurant to nab a spot in the renovated Księży Młyn complex, Cesky Film is a freshly renovated, bright and open concept Czech restaurant that takes its name from the film canisters and giant movie stills that make up the decor. It’s an appealing - if random - design, but our eyes were immediately drawn to the five taps of various Cerna Hora beers. Paired with the filling Czech goulash and hearty dumplings you’ll start to consider Polish cuisine as light fare.QO‑10, ul. Tymienieckiego 25A, lok 3, tel. (+48) 881 40 38 88, www.ceskyfilm.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (22-59zł). T­6­U­E­ G­S­W

EASTERN EUROPEAN SERVANTKA Servantka stands out as the first restaurant in all of Poland where our waitress followed up shortly after delivering our delicious Russian dumplings to ask how everything was. A small but revolutionary act we say. Servantka specializes in Russian and Ukrainian dishes, and the hearty solanka rosyjska soup can best be described as meatastic while the blini with caviar is a culinary trip to Red Square. The restaurant’s newly redesigned interior is colorful and cozy with a playful Slavic fairytale feel.QJ‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 55, tel. (+48) 42 630 75 45. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (18-65zł).

I­G­S­W

Chinese Restaurant „Złoty Imbir” is located in the very heart of Łódź and is the perfect place for a romantic dinner for two, a family dinner, Chinese Restaurant „Złoty Imbir”, Łódź ul.Sienkiewicza 39, tel.690-516-900, https://www.facebook.com/ZlotyImbir

EUROPEAN REVELO Relive the golden years of Łódź inside this inter-war time machine. Diners are ushered to their table by cloth capped skivvies, and get the choice of various saloons. On the right side find a wood heavy room festooned with antique trappings, on the left a swish chamber with a penny farthing suspended from the wall, and young Gordon Ramseys waving wildly in the open kitchen. The menu is modern European and firmly established in epicurean folklore.QK‑9, ul. Wigury 4/6, tel. (+48) 42 636 86 86, www.revelo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (38-90zł). T­G­S­W

FUSION AGRAFKA Find a bit of everything in Agrafka, one of the latest gastronomical additions to Piotrkowska street. Choose to sit outside in the sun, or inside in what is a pleasant setting, with one side reminiscent of Łódź’s industrial past with red iyp.me/polandblog

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Restaurants DECODING THE MENU Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego!

(Enjoy your meal!) śniadania breakfast zupa soup przystawki appetisers dania główne main dishes dodatki side dishes ziemniaki potatoes kapusta cabbage ser cheese chleb bread warzywa vegetables owoce fruit mięso meat kurczak chicken wieprzowina pork wołowina beef ryba fish deser dessert ciasto cake lody ice cream napoje drinks kawa coffee piwo beer

BREAKFAST BREADNIA A great place to start and spend a lazy Sunday, with omelettes, fried eggs, muesli and other options, all accompanied by their fresh-baked bread of course. They serve Breakfast from 09:00 -13:00.QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 86, tel. (+48) 507 08 40 07. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (6-18zł). T­6­ G­B­S­W SZPULKA Manufaktura’s hippest bistro serves breakfast of all shapes and sizes everyday from 08:00-12:00 (all day Sat and Sun). Go big with the full french toast, scrambled eggs combo or stay small with their szpulka light option with cottage cheese and vegetables. There is also a’la szpulka with frank sausages, bacon and eggs, as well as eggs Benedict with bacon or salmon, scrambled eggs or savoury omelet. They also have takeaway sandwiches and a huge selection of drinks.

QI‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 19, tel. (+48) 42 634 24 72, www.szpulka-lodz.com. Open 08:00 - 23:45, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:45. (12-21zł). G­S­W 28 Łódź In Your Pocket

bricks, and the opposite side acting like an information board of upcoming events with posters all over the wall.

At the back, take a peak at the open kitchen as your food is being made. Agrafka sums up pretty well what the city has to offer - post-industrialism, food and culture! Depending on what time you visit, great dishes are on offer, from breakfast classics, to pastas, pizzas, burgers and more, all at reasonable prices in the centre of the city.QK‑6, ul.

Piotrkowska 90, tel. (+48) 500 20 26 23. Open 09:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (17-42zł). T­6­G­S­W

INDIAN ISTANBUL TAJMAHAL Łódź’s favorite kebab spot has expanded to a freshly renovated full-blown restaurant with a menu of Indian and Turkish dishes that proves their talent isn’t one-note. The tandoori dishes are a standout, especially if you enjoy a mix of meat and vegetable variations like methi paneer and the vegetable cheese rolls. You can also get hand-held fare like shoarmas and of course kebabs. Expect to encounter the owner, who likes to help guests choose the ideal Indian dish. And yes, you can still get yourself a signature kebab if you’re hankering for the old days.QK‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 88, tel. (+48) 42 632 00 96, www.istanbul-tajmahal.com.

Open 10:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. (2060zł). T­V­G­S­W

INTERNATIONAL AFFOGATO One of the more experimental menus in the city with a menu of the week available Mon-Fri, 12:00-16:00 with around 6 options including soup, mains, and dessert. They focused a lot of attention and detail on the design of the interiors and the results are certainly impressive – dazzling, light colours, and tables laid out in a spacious room. The food more than holds its own and they most recently were awarded two chefs hats from the prestigious Gault & Millau gastronomic guide. Most recommended, not least for a space age toilet that really raises the eyebrows.QK‑6, ul.

Piotrkowska 144, tel. (+48) 664 45 42 20, www.affogato. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 18:30. (44-85zł). T­6­U­G­S­W BIERHALLE - ESPLANADA Formerly a Czech/Bavarian eatery, it has now been transformed into the latest of location of the popular Bavarian chain Bierhalle. Not much of a stretch thankfully.

You’re guaranteed to feel like you’ve gone back in time, not just because of the traditional costumes on the wait staff (think stein wielding beer wenches), as the atmosphere is generally yesteryear while the main focus is fixed firmly on the fantastic fizzy beers brewed on site. They also have a lot of kid-friendly features including a giant playground and sports on giant TVs for Dad.QK‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 100, tel. (+48) 507 66 38 51, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 10:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (15-49zł).

T­G­S­W iyp.me/lodz

Restaurants CUD MIÓD FABRYCZNA This new bistro has taken a strong brand and fused it with the city’s newest architectural triumph - Łódź Fabryczna train station (see cover). The industrial feel and transportation leit motifs (a vintage motorcycle) make the concept work well but it’s the food that makes this fab joint really fly. From hearty and healthy breakfast specials till noon (14:00 on weekends), which include coffee or tea for a grosz (penny), to borderline gourmet 3-course lunch specials Mon - Fri from 12-16 for only 19.90zł!!!, to their impeccable a la carte menu which includes such choice items as fresh oysters and seasoned dry aged Polish steaks. You’ll also find an amazing wine list plus a hearty selection of hot and cold beverages.

Before you catch your train, duck in for a quick bite or eat to your heart’s delight.QK‑6, ul. Traugutta 2, tel. (+48) 690 00 17 69. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (20-50zł). T­6­U­G­S­W DZIKA KACZKA One of the best dining rooms in the city and perfect when trying to clinch that big deal. A country club atmosphere is complimented by ecru coloured walls and wood panelling while bow-tied waiters, soft music and important looking cutlery arrangements generate an upper-crust atmosphere. Head chef Marek Skrętowski is the mastermind behind the menu, and diners can choose from a stunning variety of cracking dishes.

Highly recommended.Qul. Sosnowa 1, Zgierz (Stacja Nowa Gdynia Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 714 21 51, www.dzika-kaczka.pl.

Open 12:00 - 22:00. (25-69zł). T­U­G­S­W FOUR COLORS Located in Double Tree by Hilton Łódź, this luxurious and stylish restaurant presents an exquisite and original menu.

The delectable dishes on offer are a selection of international specialities with a Polish twist like their own interpretation of łazanki - pasta with savoy cabbage, button mushrooms, pickled red cabbage, pork belly, confit egg yolk, chantarelle sauce. Add to this a stunning and informative 100-strong wine list, including the magnificently titled ‘Wine Treasures of the Four Colors Restaurant.’QH‑9, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 208 80 36, www.doubletreelodz.pl. Open 06:30 - 10:00, 12:30 22:30, Sat 07:00 - 10:30, 12:30 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 12:30 - 22:00. (22-108zł). T­U­G­W IRISH PUB Irish Pubs have a bad image. The promise of the mid-life crisis’ parked up at the bar; and the overuse of Jameson, green and shamrocks. But the food at Irish Pub Łódź forces you to forget it all, as it’s easily some of the best in the city. There’s an elegant, thought-about stance towards every one of the dishes inculding the succulent steaks, which are actually cooked to the temperature you want. The presentation is modern and respectable yet not-snobby. Whether you sit in the garden, or the basement, the attentive staff will make sure you get hold of the good stuff. Guinness available on tap (duh).QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 77, tel. (+48) 662 15 32 00, www.irishpub.pl. Open 15:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. (19-70zł). T­6­E­X­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

THE TRADITION OF RICH POLISH CUISINE IN A MODERN RENDITION

Grand Hotel Łódź Piotrkowska 72, Łódź Grand.hotel.com.pl restauracja.grand@hotel.com.pl tel: +48 663 269 988

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Restaurants POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS

Photo by Karol Grzenia

A very Polish phenomenon that is the all night snack and shot bar. Known as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’ (literally ‘Appetisers & Snacks’), these trendy, formulaic budget bars cash in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by offering a small selection of simple appetisers for about 9zł each, with drinks typically fixed at 4/5zł. The menu typically includes śledź (pickled herring in oil), kiełbasa (sausage), pierogi, pickles and tartare. We list the best in Łódź below: BISTRO The trend of zakąska bars shows no sign of slowing, and Bistro gives it a unique twist by going with a mid1980s Cocktail vibe instead of the usual run-down communist design. Slide in and grab a 5zł Grolsch or 5zł Smirnoff shot for some pre-party social lubricant or as a way to ease into Sunday’s hangover. We guarantee you’ll be in good company.QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 71, tel. (+48) 696 65 09 16. Open 13:00 - 02:30, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 06:00. 6­E­X­W META NA PIOTRKOWSKIEJ The Meta brand brings to Łódź its signature commiehomey interior of dated furniture and old-school records on the wall. Which isn’t to say Meta itself is dated; this hotspot is cashing in by slinging tripe soup and lard spread along with cheap shots of vodka and beer (we’re talking 5zł cheap, on Piotrkowska no less).

Their hours are accomodating, so expect to see a crowd spilling their shots into the wee hours.QJ‑6, ul.

Piotrkowska 84, tel. (+48) 42 207 11 70. Open 11:00 - 06:00. X­W PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA Not quite open 24 hours a day, but very nearly! Pijalnia a prime location on Piotrkowska and the kind of cheap late-night eats that promise to offset your oncoming hangover. Whether you’re pregaming your night with their 4.50zł vodka shots and beers or rolling up for a post-closing-time 9zł snack you’ll find yourself in good company.QK‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 92, tel. (+48) 42 630 92 00. Open 09:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 07:00.

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MALINOWA The flagship restaurant of the Grand is something of an eyebrow raiser. Filling an imperious looking hall this place has chandeliers hanging from skylights, and a ballroom atmosphere straight from the age of cavalry charges and duels at dawn. The style is fantastic, and the menu equally so with a list that mixes modern presentation with classic local and global tastes. This indulgence is no-way as expensive as it should be, and the steak well worth a look.

For too long considered a middling hotel restaurant, the signs are that the new look Malinowa is back and barking business.QK‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 72 (Grand Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 633 99 20, www.grandlodz.pl. Open 16:00 24:00. (19-80zł). 6­U­G­S­W MOTYWY This swanky spot has started to separate itself from the rest of the pack. Having already earned a spot in the Gault&Milau guide and in 2016 earning 3rd place in the Festival Dobrego Smaku, Motywy has some serious wind in its sails. With a tip of the hat to modern European cuisine, it’s really a jack of all trades. Their accessible bistro approach to fine dining is highlighted by their ambitious and affordable weekly lunch menu (12:00 - 17:00, 19zł). But it’s their a la carte that really sets them apart! The consistently well executed and creative main dishes will have you floored, so we suggest you wander through the door and try as much as you can. They also have make incredible original cocktail menu plus they offer all kinds of craft beer to pair with your meal. Exceptional all around.QK‑6, ul. Traugutta 14, tel. (+48) 42 207 40 69, www.restauracjamotywy.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.

(22-58zł). 6­G­S­W PRZERWA CATERING & DESIGN It’s one of those places, you know - coffee, juices, lunches worth an Instagram, dinners worth 25zł, white/brick walls with wooden tables; it feels very Ctrl+C, Ctrl+V. The size of the area is impressive with advertisement attention put on the possibility for conferences and events - and with the food at Przerwa it would certainly be well catered for.

The staff are switched on and the bakers deserve a round of applause - sipping a coffee here now, would I come back? I suppose yes, but in a bigger group - I want to try more, but sitting alone in such a large space is somewhat intimidating. Send help.QJ‑9, ul. Wólczańska 128/134, tel. (+48) 42 212 33 30. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (10-200zł). 6­U­V­G­S­W QUALE RESTAURANT This place doesn’t belong in Łódź, it’s way ahead of what’s expected of this city, culinarily speaking. It was recently voted one of the 100 best restaurants in Poland and awarded high honours by the prestigious Gault & Millau dining guide. So yes, most certainly dress up and take your credit card, and please make a reservation. If you can push for it go for one of the seasonal tasting menus - a choice of 5, 7 or 9 dishes to really give you a taste of what they have to offer. Our preconceptions, taste buds, iyp.me/lodz

Restaurants

and flavour profiles were challenged in the best possible way. This is a transformative experience, not just a dinner.

I just hope their beef tenderloin is on offer when you visit - it’s borderline pornographic.QL‑5, ul. Narutowicza 48, tel. (+48) 42 253 80 39, www.qualerestaurant.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00.

(28-84zł). X­W

considered fusion of flavours crafted from the cuisine of the four prevalent nationalities for whom Łódź was home: Polish, German, Russian and Jewish. Dishes are lavish and this is truly exquisite dining in a unique atmosphere.QG‑9, ul.

Kopernika 64, tel. (+48) 42 207 07 07, www.hoteltobaco. pl. Open 07:00 - 10:00, 14:00 - 22:00. Note that the bar stays open daily until 24:00. (22-66zł). U­G­W

RESTAURACJA KOLORY WINA Modern molecular cooking? In Łódź? It took us by surprise too, especially since this alchemic cuisine is only just showing up in the capital. But chef Jarosław Bieńkowski is employing molecular gastronomy at Nobo Hotel’s restaurant with pleasing results, though us naming dishes won’t do you any good since the menu changes regularly (and creatively). The setting is as exacting as the dishes, with red chandeliers and crisp white tablecloths giving off a mod vibe.Qul. Liściasta 86 / Al. Włókniarzy (NoBo Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 234 14 62, www.kolory-wina.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00. (27-69zł). T­6­U­V­G­S­W

SZWALNIA SMAKÓW - SŁODKA NIĆ Hike down never-ending ul. Piotrkowska until you get to number 217, home to Szwalnia Smaków (The Sewing Room of Tastes) - note the old sewing machine built into one of the large communal tables. The expanded interior holds true to the popular Łódź formula of whitewashed brickwork, semi-industrial lighting and wall decor made up of art shows and info on local creative initiatives. Although they seem to be particularly proud of their excellent range of cakes and sweet things, their lunches and hot/cold dishes are a must - fundamentally Polish with elements pilfered from other world cuisines, this is exactly the type of food that has Europe excited about new Polish cooking.QK‑10, ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 603 03 61 13, www. szwalniasmakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (25-70zł). 6­V­G­S­W

RESTAURACJA U KRETSCHMERA Situated in the basement level of the trendy Hotel Tobaco, the restaurant is a stunning and fascinating blend of the building’s past history as a tobacco factory mixed with modern architectural design. The walls are decorated with ‘treasures’ discovered during the restoration of the buildingmetal plaques, tobacco advertising, plans and photographs from the factory’s 1920’s-40’s heyday. The menu is a welliyp.me/polandblog

Full contents online: lodz.inyourpocket.com January – April 2018

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Restaurants

TKALNIA SMAKU The glamorous Borowiecki hotel extends the style to its restaurant and sizeable bar. Pair an end-of-the-day cocktail with menu options that change with the season and include fusion dishes as well as more traditional options.

Try the beef cheeks with parsley root purée and young carrots. The best part? The prices don’t reflect the elegant surroundings, so you can definitely afford to order the apple pie with walnuts and apricots.QF‑5, ul. Kasprzaka 7/9, tel. (+48) 42 208 17 05, www.hotelborowiecki.pl.

Open 12:00 - 22:00. (19-48zł). U­G­S­W

ITALIAN ANGELO RISTORANTE It never ceases to amaze us how much this town loves its Italian food, although unlike some other imposters Angelo is the real deal. As soon as you approach the checkered tableclothed tables on the street, the smells of simmering garlic and fresh seafood will start to hit you. The regular menu is short and sweet and includes pasta dishes like squid ink pasta with shrimps and favourites like lamb chops with truffle vegetable purée. Every Fri-Sun they offer fresh fish and seafood plucked straight from the Mediterranean and trucked straight to your table - this menu is different each week! A nice range of Italian wines start at a very decent 45zł a bottle.QJ‑6, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 507 55 56 37, www.angelo-lodz.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (22-68zł). T­G­S­W 32 Łódź In Your Pocket

ITALICA In an even more random yet centralised location than its sister Pomodoro, the fat Italian chef figure of yesteryear standing outside gives Italica hope. Not kidding. Italica is a well-established freshly renovated eatery with its primary focus being pizza. For the love of all that’s holy, try the mascarpone, prosciutto or their delectable onion jam pie. This is your chance to have really good pizza, or pasta, or secondo piatto - I highly recommend delivery though as it is your right to get down and dirty in private with at least 3 impressive pizzas.QJ‑6, Al. Kościuszki 33/35, tel. (+48) 42 670 62 04. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (18-34zł). T­V­G­S OTWARTE DRZWI A lovely little Italian restaurant tucked away in a well-lookedafter and peaceful courtyard. The young and enthusiastic Polish owners/chefs, Maciek and Konrad, developed their passion for Italian cooking during their travels around the land of La Dolce Vita. The classic menu, featuring authentic pizza and pasta dishes, is kept to a manageable length with most of the products used in the kitchen coming directly from Italy.

Otwarte Drzwi also features a proper wood-burning pizza oven, a relaxing outdoor area, fine Italian wines and regional Polish beers. They also have daily lunch specials from MonFri 12:00 - 16:00. The whole experience is topped off by the extremely nice and unpretentious owners and staff.QK‑7, ul.

Piotrkowska 120, tel. (+48) 502 85 57 79, www.otwartedrzwi.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (19-35zł). T­6­G­S­W iyp.me/lodz

Restaurants PIKNIK Pasta wouldn’t necessarily be our first choice to take to a picnic but it’s certainly what this place specialises in. The self proclaimed pasta factory offers over 15 variations of delicious handmade pasta-based dishes. The designers have made a great job of making the long and narrow space relaxing, uncluttered and a place to just lounge around in. No one will frown with disapproval if you just pop in for a beer and a bit of chill out time. The kitchen stays open until 22:00 during the week and until midnight Fri/ Sat.QK‑6, ul. Traugutta 3, tel. (+48) 662 33 59 34, www. piknikrestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00. (15-70zł). T­G­S­W POMODORO Pizza. Just pizza. This place and its sister Italica do it right. In an unlikely location Pomodoro offers itself up as a gateway for the round, cheesy, decadent, slightly charred bottomed, wood-fired good stuff. Yes there’s also a menu with Italian fare which is respectable in its own right - but in a town congested with cheap, sub-standard, wannabe discs of dough, it’s a pleasant surprise to come across a place like Pomodoro pushing real pies. But remember, toppings-wise, less is more.QJ‑4, ul. Rewolucji 1905 r. 4, tel. (+48) 537 91 22 12, www.pomodoropizza.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (1635zł). T­6­V­G­S­W PRESTO A firm editorial favourite. Cooked in a traditional wood fired oven the pizzas in this white-washed trattoria are cheap, fast and a far better alternative to the big brand pizza delivery empires you’ll find on Piotrkowska. We had the Mafioso – salami, garlic, peppers and chillis – and for once we were not disappointed by a chef skimping on the spices. The topping sauce arrives in a separate jug, allowing you to choose whether or not you wish to drown your pizza in red goo. Also at ul.

Maratońska 67/69.QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 67, tel. (+48) 42 630 88 83, www.pizzeriapresto.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (25-39zł). T­U­V­G­ S­W VAPIANO The German based pizza and pasta chain’s brand new Łódź restaurant takes up over 400 square metres of the ground floor of the Sukcesja shopping mall. This stylish restaurant is swish and well thought out with a quirky swipe card ordering and payment system which bypasses the waiter/ waitress ordering process altogether. Queue up at one of four different ‘food stations’ (pizza, pasta, salads, desserts) to place orders and watch real chefs cook up your order in real time. They also have great coffee and plenty of wines dispensed and at your table in half the time. The enormity of the restaurant and well, efficiency of it all is a bit intimidating, but the quality and value is unquestionable.

QI‑11, Al. Politechniki 1 (CH Sukcesja), tel. (+48) 733 63 39 24, www.vapiano.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (16-35zł).

T­6­U­G­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

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Restaurants QUICK EATS The city’s main street, ul. Piotrkowska, has places all along it where you can pick up something quick to eat with no shortage of pizza and kebab outlets. For the best choice of fast food in one place though either head to the food court at Galeria Łódzka (L-8/9) at one end of Piotrkowska or the bigger version at Manufaktura (H/I-3) which along with the biggest names in international fast food (McDonald’s, KFC and Pizza Hut), you’ll find a good choice of alternatives of quick sit down meals.

IN CENTRO You may hear some locals touting this place as the best pizza in Poland. An optimistic claim, maybe, though this is certainly one of the premier pizzerias in Łódź. Definitely a veteran on the local pizza scene, In Centro pull the crowds whatever the hour, whatever the season. Always reliable and comfort food at its best.

QK‑8, ul. Piotrkowska 153, tel. (+48) 42 636 99 92, www.incentro.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (16-59zł). V­G­S­W MANEKIN Put the drugs away, you won’t need any after stepping inside Manekin. Yes, there are a few oddly lifelike mannequins here, but the real brain-zapper is the interior, styled to mimic a pre-war tram. Filled with overhanging cables, pictures of passing streetscapes and rich wood panelling this place looks ace, and looks far better in reality than we could ever do justice. Yet the action doesn’t stop with the gimmick, it only gets started. If there are finer pancakes in Łódź we could do with knowing, though frankly we’d be hard pressed to believe you. There’s seventy plus to choose from, and these run from chicken curry pancakes, to ones filled with fruit, ice cream and other stuff we thrive on.

Brilliant, brilliant, brilliant.QJ‑6, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 671 07 84, www.manekin.pl. Open 10:00 22:30, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:30. (8-19zł). T­6­G­S PAPUVEGE This brick and mortar fast slow-food joint got its start on four wheels as a food truck. Their specialty is veggie and vegan burgers filled with fresh ingredients and bold flavours inspired by middle, near, and far-east cuisines. Even for a meat lover like us, their delicious burgers, wraps and baguettes became borderline addictive. In just under a week we worked our way through their falafel burger, grilled eggplant wrap and the Vietnamese inspired Banh Mi baguette and found ourselves still wanting more. We also tried several of their fruit and dessert smoothies on for size and they fit just fine. Slow food made fast and served with a smile.

QK‑6, ul. Sienkiewicza 15, tel. (+48) 798 11 16 93.

Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. (14-16zł).

T­6­G­S 34 Łódź In Your Pocket

JAPANESE ATO SUSHI Sushi in Poland is popular and the proportion of restaurants opting for this cuisine makes you wonder about how they can all survive. The typically minimalist design plays host to well-prepared Nigiri, Sashimi, Futomaki and the like. Prices are well positioned to compete, but the biggest thing in its favour is the choice of nicely-presented hot dishes such as crispy duck. These and the very tasty ramen with beef soup made our visit all the more worthwhile and there are options enough in the menu to keep you coming back.

QJ‑6, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 207 99 99, www. atosushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (35-60zł). T­V­G­S­W HOUSE OF SUSHI After doing a top to bottom renovation, new owner and chef have taken the reliably good House of Sushi to a new level of popularity; we followed a stream of customers to their courtyard space in search of the salmon teriyaki on the new thoughtfully trimmed down menu. The easy design involving pale blond woods, paper lanterns and a spot of Japanese calligraphy remains the same.QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 89, tel. (+48) 42 674 00 40, www. houseofsushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. (25-45zł). T­U­V­G­S­W KURONEKO - JAPANESE RESTAURANT The Piotrkowska 217 movement is slowly gaining a head of steam and the cause is greatly helped by the edition of this new Japanese restaurant. Their delicious and highly affordable sushi has quickly become their calling card, although the aromatic ramen has to be a close second (with the bronze going to the shrimp Namaharumaki appetizer). The simple and straightforward menu makes it easy and fast for you to choose which set or dishes you like and the laid back atmosphere lacks the normal rigidity of many Japanese places. They have a great selection of both Japanese beers and Polish microbrews (all with Japanese themes no less). The friendly staff made for an even more pleasant meal and the start of a great night.QK‑10, ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 42 634 41 63, www.kuroneko.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (2050zł). T­U­G­S­W NEKKO SUSHI You’d think that Łódź was spoilt for choice when it comes to sushi, but there’s consistent newcomers and attempts to knock Ato Sushi off its throne. Nekko Sushi is Łódź’s new attempt at doing so, and its putting up a good fight. A bit more competitively priced than Ato, the sushi is sincerely impressive. Play Russian Roulette with their Fashion style sushi with a wide array of creative and ridiculously visually pleasing original concoctions, or just play it safe with some stately futomaki - the Crispy Ebi.QJ‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 107, tel. (+48) 608 46 88 46, www.nekkosushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (28-45zł). T­6­V­G­ S­W iyp.me/lodz

Restaurants SENDAI SUSHI Łódź’s answer to good quality affordable sushi. I’m surprised those words go together in this city too. With creative incarnations along with the classics, there’s some seriously solid sushi items on their menu. The ‘Spicy Tuna’ and ‘Tatar Set’ are both notable. The rice is cooked with a good balance of vinegar and the nori sheets don’t taste cheap. Their hot dishes include Miso and Ramen; the Ramen is cooked over many hours from scratch! It’s a humble approach to a very glorified luxury in Łódź - so yes, it’s more than worth the walk to the South end of the main drag.QK‑10, ul. Piotrkowska 209, tel. (+48) 606 46 76 44, www.sendaisushi.pl.

Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. (20-60zł).

6­V­G­S­W SUSHI KUSHI A chain of sushi bars which started out with the idea of online ordering and rapid home/office delivery just keeps on growing. Of the four sites in Łódź, the Piotrkowska branch is obviously the handiest for visitors to the city.

As well as a comprehensive sushi and soup menu. Those with the appetite of a ravenous walrus can’t go wrong with the innovative Kushi Maki XL - their most popular rolls but double the size. On the drinks front, try the unique Iki or Asahi beers or a choice of Japanese wines.

Also find them at ul. Anny Jagielonki 4, ul. Nastrojowa 41 A, ul. Śląska 54, ul. Kusocińskiego 65 and ul. Rojna 94.QK‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 113/115, tel. (+48) 42 632 81 91, www.sushikushi.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (20-43zł). V­GS ­ ­ W

MEXICAN SEÑORITAS MEXICAN AMERICAN RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Łódź should be bragging to the whole of Poland about this visionary Mexican/American restaurant and lounge bar. The interior uses traditional, earthy Mexican colours but blends them with contemporary neon lighting and some fantastic murals by local painters Natalia Anna Kalisz and Ewa Żochowska. At the helm is American owner/ chef Jeff Unger, a man whose expert knowledge of modern and traditional Mexican/American cuisine means that we find authentic tacos, quesadillas and enchiladas sharing the menu with startling dishes like grilled adobo pork tenderloin with herb roasted purple potatoes, baby spinach and orange-chille syrup. Don’t you dare leave until you’ve dabbled in the house margaritas, based around their own infused tequilas.QK‑6, ul. Moniuszki 1A, tel. (+48) 501 67 17 00. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 14:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (24-78zł).

G­S­W

MODERN MEXICAN-AMERICAN RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

Full contents online: lodz.inyourpocket.com iyp.me/polandblog

January – April 2018

35

Restaurants POLISH FOOD

Pierogi

Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the world of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the following to the test: Bigos: Also known as Hunter’s Stew. Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty dish, it’s usually made using meat, cabbage, onions, sauerkraut and whatever else is around, and then left to simmer for a few days.

If you have second helpings then consider yourself a Pole by default.

Gołąbki: Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served with a tomato or mushroom sauce.

Golonka: Pork knuckle, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish delicacy, the meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer.

Go caveman.

Kiełbasa: Sausages, and in Polish shops you’ll find an enormous variety, made from everything from turkey to bison.

Pierogi: Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, or fruit, though if you nose around you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are served almost everywhere.

Placki: These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to Jewish latkes and best enjoyed with goulash on top (placki po Węgiersku). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

Zupa (Soup): Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with potatoes or mini-pierogi floating in it, or with a croquette for dunking, but we prefer to order it ‘solo’ in a mug for drinking. Żurek is a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl.

36 Łódź In Your Pocket

JEWISH ANATEWKA Celebrate Łódź’s Jewish heritage inside an atmospheric venue scattered with prayer shawls, menorahs and general bric-a-brac, and don’t forego a visit in the evening, when the live music recitals involve violinists sitting on a chair suspended half way up a wall. A team of flighty waitresses take the orders, and the chef does the rest coming up trumps with a range of traditional Jewish dishes, including rather good goose. The addition of a banqueting hall and VIP rooms now mean that you can dine in private or alternatively at a single table seating 100 people. Opens earlier on occasion and almost always until last customer.QJ‑6, ul. 6 Sierpnia 2/4, tel. (+48) 42 630 36 35, www.anatewka.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (25-68zł). T­6­E­X­S­W

MIDDLE EASTERN KEBAB HOUSE Whereas its sister restaurant just up the road caters to a more downmarket clientele and features a more fast food style atmosphere, Kebab House’s flagship steakhouse is almost posh in comparison. Even better, where scores of Polish kebab restaurants nationwide leave one reaching for the Imodium, the dishes here go down a treat, and, more importantly, stay down. And now with added kid’s corner!QJ‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 91, tel. (+48) 42 632 20 65, www.kebablodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 06:00. (9-40zł). T­U­X­S­W SPHINX The newly renovated and gastronomically overhauled Sphinx has little to do with the kebab and cabbage plates of yore. Alongside their original Middle Eastern inspired shoarma, there is a wide range of fish dishes, vegetarian dishes, pastas, salads and steaks (Sphinx is actually the largest seller of steaks in Poland!). They also offer lighter fair such as mezze and sweet desserts. Locals love it and the Sphinx chain has spawned a host of copycat enterprises along Piotrkowska. Cheap, simple and fills you up without letting you down.QK‑10, ul. Piotrkowska 93, tel. (+48) 42 636 16 07, www.sphinx.pl. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (20-70zł).

T­G­S­W

POLISH CHŁOPSKA IZBA The peculiar interior of animal skins, bear traps, and clay walls plays host to an authentic and seriously good Polish meal. The staff are some of the most attentive and professional that you’d find in the city and seemingly proud of the food they lay on the table - as well they should be. Get the mixed plate of pierogi, beef steak and venison - treat it almost like Polish tapas. The staff will help you choose, and I guarantee you’ll have an authentic taste of good Polish food.

Bring pregnancy pants though.QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 65, tel. (+48) 42 630 80 87. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (10-70zł). G­S­W iyp.me/lodz

Restaurants CUD MIÓD A fairytale restaurant that could have been built with Hansel and Gretel in mind. Here it’s all log-cutters furniture, flower pots and rural ceramics, with walls painted with the window views you’d find in a country cottage. Best of all, there’s a bar that looks like a teapot. The recently expanded menu features lots of farm animals carved and cooked in various Polski and Italiano ways as well as select seafood dishes. The thoroughly international menu is filled out with several fish options, soups and of course good ole Polish pierogi.QAl. Włókniarzy 151, tel. (+48) 665 18 90 50, www.cudmiod.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Thu 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. (16-59zł). T­G­S­W GĘSI PUCH A huge lilywhite restaurant in an elegant industrial factory setting. It sounds kitsch, and it most certainly is, but the food is five star, a fact made all the better by the prices.

The menu is short, but you can rest assured the chef has utterly mastered every dish on it, and there’s no better way to conclude your meal than with a cooked-up pear.

Ring ahead on weekends, it’s a nailed on favourite for post-wedding revelry and funky functions of the corporate variety.QI‑10, Al. Politechniki 2, tel. (+48) 509 30 68 88, www.gesipuch.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Mon 12:00 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (20-68). T­6­U­G­I­S­W KARCZMA U CHOCHOŁA Lots of primitive wooden benches, animal skins on the walls, miscellaneous rustic crudities and a tiled floor create the right atmosphere for perhaps the best national restaurant in the city. The service is friendly and the food, including dinky bowls of smalec, large hunks of bread, venison, wild boar and a selection of traditional 17th-century puddings, is top notch. In fact, it’s such a shock to the senses that it comes as quite a surprise when you leave to realise you’re actually in Poland at all. Whereas so many folklore-themed hunters’ restaurants fail to deliver beyond the decoration, Karczma u Chochoła have bothered to get the whole thing right.QK‑9, ul. Piotrkowska 200, tel. (+48) 42 637 09 19, www.uchochola.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00. (9-62zł). T­G­S­W LOKAL Not content with being a snazzy, modern and unstuffy restaurant (check the new street art mural!) with an extraordinarily innovative menu, Lokal is also an important landmark on the cultural map of Łódź. The name was chosen to reflect their support for local produce, local art and local music - with the arts programme being as cutting edge as the cuisine. For something different in the light bite department you should try some of the ‘plates’ (Polish tapas), just mix and match any number of items from the list. Those who know how to think ahead should go for one of the set lunches (vegan and veggie available) served Mon to Fri or stop by for one of their ‘weekend dinners’.QK‑7, Al. Leona Schillera 13, tel. (+48) 666 89 93 23, www.lokallodz.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (20-62zł). T­6­E­G­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

NEW PIWNICA ŁÓDZKA A quick disclaimer for anyone wishing to visit Piwnica Łódzka - ‘piwnica’ in Polish means ‘basement’, which is precisely where this restaurant is located, not far from Piotrkowska street. There is no lift so you must deal with the spiral stairs to get in. Once in, you find quite a snug restaurant, dealing with foods unique to both Łódź and Poland. The staff are pleasant and knowledgeable, so don’t be afraid to ask for help in choosing a regional dish - we recommend the hearty favourite meat broth and the choice of goose or venison pierogi. We love pierogi, but these flavours were a first for us and they were delightful!QK‑7, ul. Sienkiewicza 67, tel. (+48) 42 207 33 30, www.restauracja-piwnicalodzka. pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 18:00. Closed Mon. (24-46zł). T­G­S­W PIWNICA SMAKÓW Enter amongst the rather curious honey and beekeeping equipment shop into this American diner-esque restaurant with ceiling fans and chequerboard flooring to boot.

The diner atmosphere was reinforced even more by the large group of American students chattering away in the corner. The concept is simple; offer up a range of tasty, well presented Polish lunch dishes, burgers, pastas and beers at unbelievably low prices (15zł lunch specials!) close to University-land and watch the students flood in! All in all, excellent quality for the price but possibly best avoided if you are over 22 and don’t wear converse sneakers and oversized knitted hats.QM‑5, ul. Narutowicza 59, tel. (+48) 603 71 47 98, www.piwnicasmakow.strefa.pl.

Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. (15-30zł). 6­G­S­W TEREMOK The classic Polish comfort food of pierogis is treated like a king at Teremok, where you can sample Caucus, Georgian, Russian, Kazakh and Ukrainian versions (as well as the classic kind) for just the change in your pocket. They’ve recently moved down the street but the address is the only thing that’s changed. Also at Piotrkowska 36 (K-9).QL‑5, ul. Piramowicza 11/13, tel. (+48) 42 207 10 71, www. teremok.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (10-20zł). G­S

VEGETARIAN BISTRO KORZENIE Find this neat vegan bistro in the increasingly vibrant courtyard at Piotrkowska 217 - as well as a few cafes, restaurants etc. the courtyard is also home to the sporadic ‘Street Food Festival’.

The menu changes every 3 weeks and presents vegan dishes from around the world (try the pizza!), a non-corporate soft drinks selection, fresh original recipe juices/cocktails and cakes. Formerly a print house, the interior is now filled with a variety of tables and chairs lovingly restored by the owners. A friendly and casual atmosphere where four-legged friends are also most welcome!QK‑10, ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 530 03 33 27. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 12:00 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (12-22zł). 6­U­G­S­W January – April 2018

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Nightlife

What you see is what you get, and at Señoritas (p.35), that’s damn good!

Łódź’s commitment to hedonism is on a par with Poland’s capital. For the unadventurous a straight-forward pub crawl down ulica Piotrkowska is the way to go, though stand advised some of the best drinking dens in town are found squirrelled away in the back streets and side alleys.

Follow your nose.

During the warmer months the streets, particularly Piotrkowska, are thronged with beer gardens. Once the chillier weather starts to move in the party shifts back inside and downstairs. For the most part you’ll be paying no more than 8zł for a large beer, and bear in mind that the opening hours we list are flexible: most bars will stay open as long as drinkers are drinking. Clubs often charge an entry fee, many of which are based on what’s on offer that night.

Here are a few ideas depending on what you are looking for: SPLURGE Swig cocktails in a chilled out and elegant setting at Golden Bar (p.39), one of the nicer places to go, despite it being located in a hotel, or visit SODA (p.42) for true top shelf VIP treatment!

LADS Check out the gazillion strip clubs that have popped up around town, including the veteran and reigning queen Magnes (p.42) which promises extreme carnal delights.

Irish Pub (p.39) has a true pub atmosphere plus the delicious food from the dining room will keep you on your 38 Łódź In Your Pocket

feet a we longer and ole Iron Horse (p.39) is one of the manlier operations we’ve experienced in all of Poland.

COUPLES A big vote for Cafe Bar Poczekalnia (p.39) for a choice of rooms and quiet spaces to talk, yet also with the option to sit amongst people in a friendly atmosphere. Couples that like to be fussed over should check out Dwa Przez Cztery (p.41) to try out some fine wines and nibbles to go.

LOCAL One of our favorite local haunts, Piwoteka Narodowa (p.40) is your best bet for local micro-brews as well as the finer pints from Czech, Belgium and beyond. And Owoce i Warzywa Klubokawiarnia (p.40) is the best haunt around to rub shoulders with the eccentric side of Łódź’s bohemian undergound.

OFF THE WALL Łódź has no shortage of curious locales. Łódź Kaliska (p.40) is a legend, and the madness is hard to imagine until you experience it. And Shotme By Gossip (p.41) serves up some of the strangest sprinkle-coated shots we’ve ever tried.

ALL NIGHTER If you’re still roaming the streets past your bedtime and still looking for some action, head back to ye ole Bajka (p.41) for long hours of cheesy Polish Disco. If you’re looking to go high class in the wee small hours nothing beats the illustrious Loża Club (p.40) to load you up for that champagne stumble into the sunset. iyp.me/lodz

Nightlife BARS & PUBS 6. DZIELNICA Although we were a bit late to the party, this might be our favourite bar of 2016. Climb three flights of stairs inside the first door on the right at Piotrkowska street’s most notorious address to find good vibes, great beer and even better snacks.

There are two bars, a stage and plenty of eclectic tables and chairs spread out over six or so rooms of what looks like a large high ceilinged apartment. This hotbed of alternative culture hosts regular concerts, exhibitions, interesting debates and much more. Oh yeah did we mention they have original sandwiches, salads and other top notch savoury snacks served till late. If all of that wasn’t enough it is also the perfect place to plugin your laptop, grab a coffee and do some co-working during the day.QK‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 102, www.szostadzielnica.pl. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. E­G­W NEW CAFE BAR POCZEKALNIA A great name for that thing a lot of us do in life - wait. Waiting doesn’t have to be boring, as Poczekalnia (Waiting Room) proves. Situated in the northern end of town, not far from Piotrkowska street, this is very much an artsy cafe-bar to chill out in. As is the area it’s located - a stone’s throw away from the New Theatre, right next to a dance school and also the Ferment Music School. You can find yourself waiting for a show, waiting on someone to finish dance class, or finding an excuse to wait for...time to fly by. Any excuse is good enough to come here as a lot takes place from karaoke, gigs, jam sessions to poetry nights. You need not be bored in Poczekalnia.QJ‑5, ul. Więckowskiego 16, tel. (+48) 602 49 13 50. Open 12:00 23:00, Mon 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 -02:00, Sat 16:00 - 00:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. ­T­6­E­G­W FOTO CAFE 102 Long before Łódź really took off 102 was considered one of the edgiest places in town – and it still is thanks to a crack bar staff that knows how to mix a mean cocktail and won’t make you feel like a fool if you don’t know your Jim from your Jack. This spot has atmosphere in spades and it spills out into the well-trodden courtyard on the weekends.

Inside, arty photos cling to brick clad walls, with wooden tables crowded together inside a low lit space that is a great place to creep into as the witching hour approaches. The self-service bar brings with it the spoils of democracy, and once you muscle your way to the front, do yourself a favour and ask Bartek to mix you a drink, he’ll set you straight.

QK‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 102, tel. (+48) 502 66 01 21. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.

X­W GOLDEN BAR As far as hotel bars go, this one’s a cracker. The list of alcohols on offer is exceptional, probably more choice than in Oliver Reed’s drinks cabinet! The whisky/whiskey list alone comprises over 120 different bottles, including some special offerings such as the Ardbeg Corryvreckan – iyp.me/polandblog

a true peaty monster of a malt. The cocktails feature classic and signature concoctions to satisfy every craving. Topping it all off, there’s a great list of American and Asian dishes to choose from, everything from snacks to mains. The efficient, amiable staff are extremely attentive creating a thoroughly relaxing ambience. We’ll leave the last word to a foreign businessman we chatted to before we headed off into the night, “Why bother going anywhere else?”QH‑9, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 208 80 38, www.doubletreelodz.pl. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. U­G­W IRISH PUB A staple of the Łódź scene since 1994, the Irish Pub on ul. Piotrkowska is under new ownership and they made a lot of big changes. Upstairs remains an old style bar with a strong naval theme and a warm pub atmosphere, whereas the basement bar and restaurant has undergone a complete overhaul with a splendid mix of modern and traditional elements; private cubicles, open fireplaces and a wide choice of rooms hint at 19th century ‘People’s Palaces’ with a modern twist. The introduction of around 50 fine malts, a new seasonally changing menu, regular live music Thu-Sat, an illusionist show every 2nd Thursday, and its famous courtyard garden will guarantee its ongoing popularity.QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 77, tel. (+48) 662 15 32 00, www.irishpub.pl. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. E­X­W IRON HORSE There’s lots of things we love about Iron Horse, and trumping the lot is the impassioned plea of one pub laureate. ‘Show me tits’ scribbles our hero on one wall. A noble entreaty, though one unlikely to materialize; Iron Horse looks and feels like a men-only pub, and when there’s not some hairy-arsed band on the main stage, musical interlude comes supplied in the form of Maiden and Sabbath. Decorated with whisky flags and signage liberated from gas stations this brash space even comes with motorbikes hanging from the girders. Prospective sportsmen will take delight in the numerous pool tables, while more studied sorts are gifted a galaxy of graffiti to admire and decipher.QK‑6, ul. Sienkiewicza/Tuwima, tel. (+48) 42 632 75 58, www.ironhorse.lodz.pl. Open 16:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 02:00. E­G­W K6 PUB Hipsters and geeks of all shades rejoice, this is your new home away from home! Set deep inside a courtyard off of Piotrkowska (where else?) this bustling basement immediately feels cool and comfy and we think may be the only place of its type in Poland - a bar dedicated to board games (over 150 of them!). Don’t pass too fast past the long central bar as you’ll find all manner of tipple from local craft beer, cheap cocktails in shots galore, in fact, plenty to throw your dice at. They also offer four varieties of toasties, for the hungry gamers amongst you.QJ‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 6, tel. (+48) 796 90 00 94. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri 17:00 - 01:30, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. G­W January – April 2018

39

Nightlife CRAFT BEER BARS

PIWPAW This Warsaw franchise was the first multi-tap bar in Poland to break the 20 tap barrier and they didn’t stop there with their tap count. They decided to raise the bar with their Łódź location and the tap total comes in at a whopping 104 which makes it the largest in Poland!

This outsized sud-tappery doesn’t sacrifice quality for quantity either with all of their taps featuring premium Polish and International craft brews. The knowledgeable bar staff will help you choose the right pint and even let you try as many shots of beer as you like before making a final decision. The bar itself is massive and has a laid back street style with pilsner poetry scrawled on the walls in graffiti.QK‑8, ul. Piotrkowska 147, tel. (+48) 534 73 41 17, www.piwpaw.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. 6­X­W PIWOTEKA NARODOWA Run by the same folks who operate the specialty beer store down the street, Piwoteka Narodowa is where serious beer drinkers set up shop. The interior is dark and very man-cave: think beer paraphernalia on the walls and jumbled tables of drinkers. The bar itself is what will illicit immediate awe: bottle upon bottle of the best Europe has to offer, from Czech to Belgium and Polish to USA and German – all that separates you is a bottle opener.QJ‑6, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 679 69 10, www.piwotekanarodowa.pl. Open 14:00 - 24:00. G­W Z INNEJ BECZKI There ought to be a law stating that all beer aficionados MUST visit this fantastic bar! Not only does it serve up a great selection of ever-changing Polish and international craft beers from 13 beer taps (and one tap with kvass!), it’s also one of the most stunning venues to sip brews in the city. Situated in the lower level of the famous Meyer Villa (1887), the bar is entered via the beautiful multi-levelled sunken garden area and the design has taken its influences from classic bars of the 1920’s-50’s. The also make great coffees and have delicious sandwiches and light fare plus they have an exhibition space. From another barrel indeed!QK‑6, ul.

Moniuszki 6, tel. (+48) 720 13 13 13. Open 15:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00. G­W 40 Łódź In Your Pocket

ŁÓDŹ KALISKA Three levels of carnage inside the most famous bar in town.

Featuring a slanty bar, glass floors and an industrial design of exposed pipes and steel stairwells this is a must-visit, with a crowd that covers all bases – from important looking expats to theatre ponces courting students half their age. Explore the ground floor, where the weird art minds behind ŁK have opted for a design with clearly one thing on their mind – breasts, and in particular the bare boobs of Victorian era battlepigs.

Kudos to that. Things aren’t any more sensible upstairs, where potty DJs mix unmixable genres to the baying howls of an appreciative audience.QK‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 102, tel. (+48) 42 630 69 55, www.klub.lodzkaliska.pl. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. U­X­W MAGAZYN 82 A spacious watering hole whose slightly sombre brickwork and dark woods are brightened up by the blonde tables and back-lit bottles of colourful liquids behind the bar. In the evenings a Cheers-like atmosphere prevails, with lots of laughter and happy banter between the customers and staff. A short menu of burgers, bar snacks and salads is available once the munchies kick in, while four flat screens beam live sports events around the bar, with the customers and staff particularly committed to watching 22 men kicking a ball around a patch of grass.QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 82, tel. (+48) 42 633 06 43. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. G­W OWOCE I WARZYWA KLUBOKAWIARNIA What can you expect of a bar called Fruit & Veg? In this case a fantastic spot that incorporates a plywood bar and concrete flooring inside a space filled with retro furniture and double-take artwork provided by minds that are as talented and creative as they are utterly bonkers. There was us thinking Łódź couldn’t get weirder, then landed this place – arthouse films, rare Polish beers, trippy sounds and all manner of oddness are found here, and it’s all lapped up by a laidback crowd carrying either college portfolios or laptop computers. No kidding, this could yet emerge as the best bar in Poland.QK‑6, ul. Traugutta 9, tel. (+48) 508 06 19 36, www.owoceiwarzywa.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. G­S­W PIOTRKOWSKA KLUB 97 You won’t miss this place. From Piotrkowska you’ll notice their double-decker glass-encased café section attached to the main building. Inside, climb the stairs to find a weird interior that smacks of Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. Filled with red velvet the interior splits off into various different rooms, thereby confusing the pretty service. Bottles of whisky line the wood-panelled walls, and with a number of concealed steps, mirrors and metal objects it’s easy to find yourself knocking over drinks and decoys, attracting stares from the tutting couples. The toilet, complete with glass floors and double-sided mirrors, is worth the visit alone.QK‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 97, tel. (+48) 42 630 65 73, www.97.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. X­W iyp.me/lodz

Nightlife SHOTME BY GOSSIP What happens when a 1950s-era soda fountain is stocked with liquor instead of fizzy water? Your frothy shots arrive rimmed in sprinkles, with a cupcake on the side.

Shotme specialises in unique-verging-on-bizarre shots (avoid the “monkey brain,” trust us) that turn memories of childhood milkshakes and fruit punch into deliciously boozy beverages. Under the flicker of a disco ball and framed pictures of busty pin-up girls Łódź’s cocktail culture is getting a major boost from bartenders stacking everything from lime wedges to whip cream on your overflowing glass. Give your bartender free license to make something creative and you won’t be disappointed.QK‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 94, tel. (+48) 513 03 89 60. Open 14:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 06:00. N­G­W THE ECLIPSE INN Tucked inside one of the numerous courtyards along Piotrkowska, find a pleasing little bar which is clearly a labour of love for its Polish owners. Named in honour of a pub in Winchester, England, this basement space is decked out in all sorts of pictures and bric-a-brac that you might expect to find in such a rural British bar. And the British influence spreads to the bar where you’ll find bottled offerings of Old Speckled Hen and Spitfire and a rotating list of 15 beers on tap while Izabela takes on the landlady role very convincingly. While we were happy to see the British and American beers available, we instead went for one of the Polish microbrews on offer and recommend you do the same to get the best of all worlds – a Polish beer, in cosy surroundings with very un-British opening hours.

The addition of English Premier League football on screens should only add to this bar’s appeal.QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 80, tel. (+48) 518 84 33 74, www.theeclipseinn.pl. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. G

WINE BARS DWA PRZEZ CZTERY WINEBAR This compact, store-front, open-shelved wine bar might throw you at first, but bite the bullet and just walk right in.

You’ll immediately be met by their smiling sommeliers who will quickly get settled at one of the six tables. Whether flying solo, on a date or in a group, expect quick table service and a painless survey of your favourite flavours, profiles, grapes and regions which will ensure you end up with the perfect personalised glass or bottle from their estimable collection. They also offer minimal cheese, olive and hummus type tapas if you get peckish while pondering your next oenophile exploration. Look up at all the bottles and labels on the shelves and maybe take one home for yourselves!QK‑8, ul. Roosevelta 2/4, tel. (+48) 662 44 00 80. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 15:00 20:00. Closed Mon. 6­G­W KLUB WINO Unlike beer, wine can be an intimidating drink; there’s the swirling, the elaborate pouring, the use of the word “mouthfeel”. Luckily none of that perceived pretension iyp.me/polandblog

exists at Klub Wino, a restaurant, wine bar and shop that makes the beverage accessible to all. Much of that spirit is due to the jovial owner, who is fortunately liberal with his opinions – we enjoyed hearing his take on the state of Polish wines (he is happy to host a Polish wine festival here May 20th). The main focus is still most certainly on the beverage at hand - a club without being a clubhouse.

QK‑10, ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 786 19 73 00, www.klubwino.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. G­W

CLUBS ABRACADABRA DA CLUB The name hurts - we know. Joined at the hip to its partner in crime SODA; Abracadabra is a plush living-room felt dancehall catering to the more upmarket clientele of Łódź.

A cocktail wouldn’t go amiss while watching the dance floor fill up on a Saturday night to the sounds of hits we all sing along to when no one is watching. It seems the 1st place in Łódź where the over 21 policy is taken to heart- it’s a playground for grown ups (VIP room available by advance booking as well).QK‑7, Pl. Komuny Paryskiej 6, tel. (+48) 698 34 53 45, www.abracadabraclub.com. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 06:00. X ALL STAR KLUBOKAWIARNIA We’re kind of on the fence about All Star - it’s like one of those student union hangouts that you’re just hoping that weird group of seniors aren’t at. Similar to what you’d find at Off or Niebostan, but down at Piotrkowska 217. They have a packed concert and event schedule plus a pretty standard selection of cocktails and array of spirits on offer to go along with the standard beer selection and newly added pizza menu. In warmer weather they have a grassy area nearby so it’s worth dragging a couple of friends down there for the ‘chill of it all’.QK‑10, ul.

Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 723 78 16 00. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Mon 15:00 - 21:00, Thu 15:00 - 24:00, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. 6­E­ G­W BAJKA DISCO CLUB Before you came to Poland you must have had a preconception of what its party/music scene might be like - Bajka embodies this. A full on Disco Polo (a sort of Polish, mainstream weird techno) club that generally attracts a more mature clientele. It’s located where two clubs have failed in the past, but this place shows no signs of following suit. It’s always packed. The staff are actually worthy of note as well, which is rare for a nightclub - and the ease of it all is a bit refreshing. On the other hand, there is a level of tackiness about it that makes you just stand back wide-eyed in disbelief. Before heading there make sure you Google ‘Disco Polo’ because the written word just doesn’t have that thumping, synth-crunching impact.

QK‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 90, tel. (+48) 530 53 05 81, www. bajkadiscoclub.pl. Open Fri 21:00 - 04:00 and Sat 21:00 - 05:00 only. X January – April 2018

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Nightlife CLUB SHISHA SAHARA Ceiling drapes, Persian rugs and even a burbling fountain lend Sahara an atmosphere of almost overwhelming cheese. We love it, and not just for the sofas that more resemblant of beds. Hit them on weekends, when the party stretches till daybreak in this meandering space of multiple bars and dancefloors.QK‑8, ul. Piotrkowska 143, tel. (+48) 530 36 36 63, www.sahara-club.com. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. X­W CZEKOLADA It’s gotten significantly harder to make fun of Czekolada, former home of leopard carpeting and other questionable design decisions, after a recent renovation has made it – dare we say – classy. Fortunately, it’s only the appearance that has grown up as the crowd is still mostly students, and their clothes are still microscopic. The formula isn’t complicated as they pump Euro Disco hits night after night to the delight of the masses. So claw your way onto the new dance floor and embrace Czekolada without embarrassment.QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 55, tel. (+48) 663 56 63 44, www.klubczekolada.com. Open 21:00 - 05:00.

Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. U­G­W KOKOO It’s bling heaven in Kokoo, an upmarket dance arena that’s filled a niche following the death of Coffees and Toffees.

Dress to impress if you want entry before proceeding to shimmy and sashay with local fashion fatalities. If you don’t fancy knocking elbows and knockers with the hoi polloi then sneak a place in one of the side rooms. The DJ gods play electro, funk, chart hits and deep house on Fridays and Saturday on the multiple dance floors.QK‑6, ul. Moniuszki 1, tel. (+48) 695 34 66 55, www.klubkokoo.pl. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00 only. U­X LORDI’S CLUB & FOO FOO BAR Since 2010 Lordi’s has made a name for itself amongst students, tourists, expats, locals, Poles, visitors, celebrities, as the place to go to have a night out. With a huge following and a guaranteed full club come Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights it is the place to be with the most of the most. With a separate VIP room up the metal stairs (Foo Foo), Lordi’s is the biggest club in the city and has hosted a number of International DJ’s/performers and Polish homegrown celebrities. You won’t find hipsters here, nor will you find anyone interested in good conversation - this a place to go crazy, let loose and enjoy a night in Łódź that only Lordi’s can deliver.QK‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 102, tel. (+48) 662 36 63 66, www.lordisclub.com. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00 only. G­W LOŻA CLUB Lush, plush and for those who are, or think they are, flush.

Loża has certainly upped the standard for club life in the city. Situated in a lovely old townhouse (former home to the Łódź Business Club) the owners have managed to maintain the feeling of grandeur of the architecture and style while simultaneously kicking the whole place into 42 Łódź In Your Pocket

the 21st century. Part London Gentlemen’s club – with a cigar, whisky and billiards area - part fin de siècle Paris house of tolerance and part heaving dance floor make it all sublimely decadent! Guest DJ’s, live music, fashion events and burlesque shows add to the fun. Donald Trump and Snoop Dogg sitting in leather armchairs, exchanging hairstyling tips and sipping cocktails wouldn’t look out of place here.QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 85, tel. (+48) 509 80 84 25, www.lozaclub.pl. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 05:00.

E­X­W NEW YORK - MUSIC CLUB This new live music club and cocktail bar is filling a Hard Rock shaped hole in Łódź’s nightlife and promises to be the go to venue for nightly live music, featuring the best of the best of local and international jazz and rock acts, plus good food and great cocktails. The spacious bar and lounge offers plenty of space to sprawl out and enjoy the show, but make sure to reserve a spot if you want a booth or table as they fill up quick. The American inspired menu offers delicious steaks, burgers, pasta, quesadillas and their top notch bartenders mix up delicious drinks and classic cocktails all night long. Check out their new thirdstorey dance club “Las Vegas” which features DJs pumping dance tunes every Fri and Sat from 22:00 - 03:00 (or 04:00).

QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 62, tel. (+48) 661 38 26 18, www. newyork.net.pl. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00.

Closed Mon, Tue. E­X­W SODA UNDERGROUND STAGE Walking down the metal black staircase into presumably Sean Combs’ pristine Miami-Vice-inspired Underground ‘Stage’ is an intimidating act. You dress to impress at SODA. While your friends gawk at the girls lining the side sofas, you pretend to know this place inside out on your journey along the Cîroc & G.H. Mumm engine rooms, past the dominating central bar to the pleasantly surprising summer garden (closes end of October). Seemingly separated by musical genre’s, the two floors compete for the throngs of lavishly-attired guests in what is Łódź’s new big spender’s hub. Ergo, Saturdays here are a must.QK‑7, Pl. Komuny Paryskiej 6, tel. (+48) 698 34 53 45, www. abracadabraclub.com/soda-underground-stage. Open Sat only: 23:00 - 07:00. X

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT MAGNES Since IYP first arrived in Łódź, this has been the sauciest night out in town, and remains just that, with a cracking line-up of girls doing their bit for international relations by dropping their knickers in next to no time at all. The shows here are frank and to the point, and if you can’t spring for a private dance then the bartop shows are equally revealing. All this inside a typical strip club atmosphere, with plenty of chrome poles and neon slashes, plus a 30zł entrance fee.QJ‑3, ul. Zachodnia 44, tel. (+48) 570 16 78 27, www.magnesklub.pl. Open 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. X­W iyp.me/lodz

Manufaktura

Don’t dive into the ‘pool’ at Manufaktura - you’re better than that!

Manufaktura today is the result of Poland’s largest renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town in the 1950s (something you can read about in the Warsaw edition of In Your Pocket). The history of the site is one of fortunes made and lost, of war, nationalization and destitution. What you see before you was once a series of factories - all producing various textiles - that were constructed in the latter part of the 19th century.

Designed by Hilary Majewski, a graduate of St Petersburg University, the mills were built in a red-brick industrial style, incorporating the occasional Art Nouveau flourish. They were the property of Izrael Poznański, a Jewish merchant who saw the need for high quality textiles on the eastern markets of Russia, Japan and China. As Łódź was at the time the most westerly city in the Russian Empire, Poznański was able to match western textile expertise and industrial practices with limitless access to eastern markets. It was a winning combination, and one that made him a fortune and put Łódź on the map. “Łódź was waking up, the first yelling factory whistle pierced the quiet of the early morning, then in all parts of the city others began to spring up ever more raucously and bawled in hoarse voices like a choir of monstrous roosters crowing their metal throats the call to work. The huge factories, whose long black bulks and slender chimney necks loomed in the darkness, in the fog and rain they were slowly waking up, belching flames of fire, exhaling clouds of smoke.”

- Władysław Reymont, The Promised Land 44 Łódź In Your Pocket

THE PAST The first Manufaktura loom began spinning in 1852. Real growth however came about during the period 1872-1892, by which time more than 80,000 spindles spread over 12 separate factories were churning out high-quality textiles at a rate unmatched anywhere in Europe at the time. Poznański adored luxury - when asked what style he wished one of his residences to be built in he allegedly declared ‘All of them, I can afford them all!’ The palaces he built for himself all over the city are testament to his fondness for extravagance, but he was also considered a visionary employer. Łódź’s rise to industrial prominence in the second half of the 19th century saw the city transform from a sleepy backwater into a gritty metropolis bursting with red brick factories and a horizon crowned with smoking chimney stacks. As the population exploded suburbs sprang up, including poverty stricken rat mazes like Bałuty and Chojny. The more conscientious factory owners took it on themselves to build tenements to house their workers; Izrael Poznański provided 1,086 apartments for 4,043 people.

Designed by Hilary Majewski, one of the architects behind Poznański’s award winning textile factory (it snatched the Bronze Medal at the 1878 World Exhibition in Paris), many of these shadowy housing projects still exist, and exploring their dark courtyards and flaking corridors is like a step back in time. Take a look at how the proletariat used to live by peering into the buildings that stand on ul. Ogrodowa 24 and 26, a couple of which are being renovated. iyp.me/lodz

Manufaktura While his workers may have been squashed into tenements, make no mistake that their boss lived the high life. Poznański had the sort of egocentric, hyper-wealthy lifestyle associated with modern day oligarchs, and his palaces and mansions found around town are testimony to this. His HQ on Ogrodowa 15 was the benchmark of flash, and stacked with priceless treasures and frequently the home of high society functions. Designed by Adolf Seligson the L-shaped structure originally held a 770m2 winter garden topped with a glass roof, as well as landscaped gardens out back. As most other industrialists of the age, Poznański had his residence built right next to his factory, allowing him the opportunity to watch his workforce marching to work each morning.

The man died in 1900, wealthy beyond imagination, and the ownership of the company passed to his sons. Poznański is buried in an enormous mausoleum in the Jewish Cemetery (some say the largest Jewish tomb in the world), a fitting testament to the true king of bling. Manufaktura continued to flourish, with many of its wares being shipped far and wide to new markets in America and the Far East, though the inter-war period marked the start of a decline as Łódź left the Russian empire and became part of Poland, losing most of its eastern markets in the process. Production continued throughout most of World War II though, after which it was nationalised, and renamed Poltex.

The emphasis on quality was replaced by an emphasis on quantity, with most of the goods produced here - primarily cotton - being shipped off to the Soviet Union. The death of the Warsaw Pact trading block COMECON left it without any real market, factories closed and production fell. The last textile worker left the plant - by then a rundown, halfderelict wreck - in 1997.

THE PRESENT French developer Apsys bought the site in 2000. Work began on transforming the crumbling mills into a multifaceted cultural extravaganza in 2003. The opening of the site on May 17, 2006 was therefore the culmination of more than five years of planning and construction. The results are stunning.

The original 19th century brick buildings remain the focal point of the complex, having been entirely renovated: some brick by brick, with only the chimney stacks which once dominated the horizon missing. Director David Lynch was so impressed he shot part of his film, ‘Inland Empire’, on the premises. In all, more than 90,000m2 of red brick buildings have been restored and completely refitted. An equal amount of new buildings - mainly the shopping centre - have gone up alongside, while commie leftovers from the Poltex factory days have been demolished.

The restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be seen to be believed. Enter through the Poznański gate, where workers used to file through every day on their way to the mills, and you’ll arrive at the project’s ground zero: the Rynek (main square). In summer, this place really comes into its element, with a phalanx of beer gardens, an artificial beach and open-air concerts by international names.

The natural reaction to Manufaktura is to be staggered; covering an area of 54 football pitches the complex spans, in total, over 90,000m2, and makes use of 45,000 square metres of restored original brickwork, fifty kilometres of electric cables and over a kilometre of metal framework.

And what was already impressive on opening day has grown more impressive still. Added over the years has been the award winning Museum of the Factory, Art Museum ms² which leads the line as one of Poland’s top galleries, and the Experymentarium, easily the finest museum of its genre in the country. Better still, the city has a hotel worthy of its status as one of Poland’s key metropolises. That’s the andel’s and can be found on the Ogrodowa side of the development.

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January – April 2018

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Manufaktura Restaurants & Cafés AMERICAN WHISKEY IN THE JAR MANUFAKTURA Whiskey in the Jar has now set up shop in Łódź after success in Poznań and Wrocław, and what a great location to make an impact - Manufaktura. If the ‘Rock ‘n’ Roll’, ‘steakhouse’ and images of motorcylce paraphernalia plastered everywhere hasn’t given the game away, then the ‘whiskey’ with an ‘e’ suggests you’re in for an American treat.

Once inside, you can be forgiven for thinking the Sons of Anarchy have gone straight and settled in Łódź. The decor is a mixture of old Łódź red brick, street artwork around the theme of rock ‘n’ roll and motorcycle gang culture.

It’s hard not to spot the Harley Davidson hanging upside down from the ceiling! Here you’ll find a host of cocktails with funky names, usually containing good ole Bourbon, and served in even funkier jars (what else?!). The food is what we’re here for, with burgers and steaks drawing us in. The burgers range from classic, Teriyaki, to Veggie. The steaks though, with such great names like ‘Viking’, ‘King’ and ‘Mr. T - T-Bone’ are a delight. Despite such formidable foes like Mr T, where there’s a will to eat, there’s always a way to win!QI‑3, ul. Drewnowska 58B, tel. (+48) 516 13 68 76, www.whiskeyinthejar.pl. Open 11:00 - 01:00. (37-99zł).

T­6­U­E­B­S­W

ASIAN HANA SUSHI Hana Sushi are one of the most successful sushi chains in the country, which makes it no surprise that you’ll find it at Manufaktura. Very competently prepared sushi sets, served by pleasant black-robed staff in a modern, clean cut interior. Also at ​(L-8/9) ul. Piłsudskiego 15/23 (Galeria Łódzka).QI‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 19A, tel. (+48) 42 634 00 60, www.hanasushi.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 23:00. (28-89zł). U­V­G­S

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App MEIMEI A modern spin on a traditional style Chinese restaurant with a calming interior decorated in black, white and gold. The menu itself is a reasonable list of standard Chinese dishes. For something a bit different we suggest you give the duck in mandarin sauce a go. A slight air of disappointment prevailed as the shrimp dim sum arrived and didn’t resemble the elegant presentation portrayed in the menu photo. Mind you, all was forgiven after sampling the near perfect dumplings. A special mention goes to the black clad, professional and perfectly amiable waiting staff.QI‑2, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 636 31 30, www.mei-mei.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (35-40zł). T­V­ G­S­W HOT SPOON This delicious Thai venture holds the honour of delivering the most mouth-searing meal we’ve had in Poland (they’re not kidding about the ‘hot’ in Hot Spoon). That came in the form of chicken pad Thai, but the menu is awash in curry and noodle dishes that promise an equally fiery explosion in your mouth. The decor is sleek and straight from the Thai restaurant playbook, while the service is up there with the best - - our waiter seemed to know exactly when we’d be requesting that extra glass of water to douse the flames.

QI‑3, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 633 90 90, www. hotspoon.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00.

(18-50zł). V­G­B­S­W

INDIAN GANESH Ganesh takes their successful Indian formula from Piotrkowska Street to the heart of Manufaktura, bringing their creamy palak paneer and spicy curries with them.

Shoppers can rejuvenate with crispy samosas inside a newly renovated two-storey interior that is all shiny sleekness and peppy Bollywood grooves. Also at (J-6) ul.

Piotrkowska 69.QI‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 19, tel. (+48) 42 634 12 13, www.ganesh.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (12-55zł). V­G­S­W 46 Łódź In Your Pocket

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Manufaktura INTERNATIONAL BIERHALLE A blinding beer hall with outstanding lager that’s so good you’ll want to take it away – and the good news is that you can. Find the five house beers available to go in either nifty little bottles or five litre barrels. But there’s more to Bierhalle than beer alone, and the food is on no accounts second fiddle. Thump someone with the giant picture menu and they’ll see stars for week, though don’t resort to that sort of act without first ordering – the tortillas are pretty good, though our favourite is the sausage platter, served with an accompanying wheelbarrow of chips. A great place indeed, with both booze and food done inside a neo-industrial interior replete with giant vats that bubble with beer.

QI‑3, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 632 03 76, www. bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (15-48zł). G­S­W DELIGHT RESTAURANT It’s the best hotel in town, so it’s no surprise the house restaurant is staking a claim as the best eatery around. Set to a neo-industrial background, Delight has a naff name but a chef who is a star in the making. It’s vast size means empty seats are par for the course, but that’s no reflection on the culinary talent. Expect perfectly presented, edgy cuisine that tastes as good as it looks. They were the only restaurant in Łódź to be awarded 2 points in the first edition of the Gault & Millau culinary guide. Whether you’re a guest or not, saddle up to their stupendous buffet breakfast Mon-Fri 06:30-10:30 and Sat, Sun 07:00-11:00.QI‑3, ul.

Ogrodowa 17 (andel’s by Vienna House Łodz), tel. (+48) 42 279 16 77, www.viennahouse.com/pl/andels-lodz.

Open 06:30 - 10:30, 18:00 - 23:00; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (35-130zł). T­U­G­S­W LA VENDE Couples love La Vende, a violet/vanilla spot festooned with frills, shrubs and creaky wood fittings. Designed by a distinctly feminine hand this little gem has a healthy menu of salads and suchlike, as well as a wine list that really goes the distance. They’ve got the food right, they’ve got the atmosphere right; what’s keeping you? Also at ul. Elsnera 23 and ul. Piotrkowska 76 (J-6).QI‑2, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 512 12 07 67, www.lavende.eu. Open 11:00 23:00. (20-80zł). T­G­S­W

SZPULKA A rarity amongst the numerous eateries in the Manufaktura complex - a truly hip and contemporary bistro serving seasonally-inspired Polish fusion dishes in a modern, arty environment. All day breakfasts are a highlight like a classic scramble with french toast or a more fit szpulka light option with cottage cheese and vegetables. The downstairs is pretty much half open kitchen, half seating.

The definitions of space seem to blend into each other rather nicely with wooden, glass-fronted cases showing works by artists and designers like photographer/illustrator Blanka Biernat. Also worth noting is a large wall mural by Proembrion (Krzysztof Syruć).QI‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 19, tel. (+48) 42 634 24 72, www.szpulka-lodz.com. Open 08:00 - 23:45, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:45. (1245zł). G­S­W

ITALIAN BAWEŁNA Occupying a grand corner spot in the Manufaktura complex, Bawełna serves up hearty doses of quality mainly Italian dishes at surprisingly good prices. The interior is well fitted out with the de rigueur, neo-industrial/ rustic look and the ground level features an open kitchen (shoot me now). Head upstairs to a similarly designed area which appears more spacious, airy and features a nice bar.

Try one of their signature cocktails which blends some pretty unique and intriguing concoctions of flavours. They seem to have successfully brought the cool ambience of some of the OFF Piotrkowska venues to the rather plush Manufaktura.QI‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 19A/46, tel. (+48) 42 633 34 44, www.bawelna-lodz.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (24-70zł). T­S­W TAWERNA PEPE VERDE The decor of this three-level eatery can only be described as nautical, from the bar shaped like a boat to the life rings, sails and ships’ wheels pinned to every available surface.

The staff gets in on the act with little sailor caps and serve up a range of Italian inspired dishes like pizza, spaghetti and seafood dishes. Everything proves to be tasty while at the same time leaving plenty in your purse to blow across the Rynek in the mall.QI‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 19A, tel. (+48) 42 630 88 98, www.tawerna.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (20-50zł). V­G­S­W

JEWISH

48 Łódź In Your Pocket

Photo Courtesy of Manufaktura

ANATEWKA Sister restaurant of the highly recommend Anatewka found on Łódź’s ul. 6 Sierpnia, and though this place isn’t nearly as good it’s still a decent stop when you’re Manufaktura bound. Set on two levels this place has menorahs aplenty, lacy frills and stirring Jewish children’s choirs singing along to a constant cycle of Klezmer music.QI‑2, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 633 22 77, www.anatewka.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (25-69zł).

T­6­U­E­G­S­W iyp.me/lodz

Manufaktura POLA NEGRI One Polish name is particularly associated with the advent of film and Hollywood glamour, and that name is Pola Negri. From the 1910s-1940s Negri achieved worldwide recognition as the first European actress to be invited to Hollywood and a classic femme fatale during the golden era of films.

The beginning of Negri’s life is as dramatic as any Hollywood film: born in Lipno in central Poland as Barbara Apolonia Chałupiec, Negri was the youngest of three children and the only one to survive. Negri’s father was exiled to Siberia by the Russians for alleged revolutionary activity, which sent the young Negri and her mother to Warsaw to scrape by in poverty. After storming the Warsaw stage scene Negri’s popularity helped the actress launch a silent film career in Berlin.

The popularity of her 1919 film Madame Dubarry in the US brought down the embargo on German films in America. After several more successes in German cinema Paramount invited Negri to bring her talents to Hollywood, and her 1922 contract with the film company was the first to be signed by a European star.

Negri’s career with Paramount included films like The Spanish Dancer and Forbidden Paradise which came out right before the industry moved away from silent movies and into the “talkies.” Negri starred in the lacklustre A Woman Commands, but her song “Paradise” from the film became a hit and took Negri on a Vaudeville tour to promote the song. Negri also returned to Europe in the late 1930s to make films like Fanatisme and Mazurka, the latter of which was a favourite of Adolf Hitler. The war sent Negri back to the US, where she landed the role of high-strung opera singer Genya Smetana in the 1943 comedy Hi Diddle Diddle.

Almost as famous for her love affairs as for her screen roles, Negri counted Charlie Chaplin and Rod La Rocque among her conquests (not to mention two husbands, Count Eugeniusz Dambski and Georgian prince Serge Mdivani) but claimed Rudolph Valentino was the love of her life. The two were introduced by William Randolph Hearst and were lovers until Valentino’s death in 1926.

Negri eventually retired from Hollywood in the 1950s and moved with her oil heiress friend Margaret West to San Antonio, Texas where she lived for the remainder of her life. While Negri would occasionally reconnect with Hollywood for a film role she largely stayed out of the public eye, dying on August 1, 1987 from a bout with pneumonia. Today Negri is memorialised on the Hollywood Walk of Fame, on Poland’s Walk of Fame in Łódź and in front of Grauman’s Chinese Theatre in Los Angeles, where she was the 11th star to place her hands and footprints in cement.

50 Łódź In Your Pocket

POLISH GALICJA A slightly Laura Ashley take on the familiar ‘old Polish farmhouse’ look makes Galicja look more fresh and clean than most of the competition. The menu sticks to tradition with a few innovative twists; hearty servings of soups, pierogi and meat dishes. Our schnitzels were the size of a fried frisbee and the potatoes came coated with a tasty, slightly sweet sauce/dressing composed of various seeds, greenery, lardons and onions. Friendly, smiley staff and possibly the most attentive and genuinely interested manager we have yet encountered. It’s also the first eatery in the Manufaktura complex to make use of its huge cellar area with a bar serving up eight regional beers and regular folk concerts.QI‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 19A, tel. (+48) 42 630 88 55, www.galicjamanufaktura.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (20-45zł). T­V­E­G­S­W POLKA Celebrity chef Magda Gessler strikes again, this time in her native cuisine. Polka, which is so awash in poppy-themed décor you won’t know where to look (the poppies even climb the ceiling and grip the staff’s uniforms). Another Gessler hallmark is reliably exceptional food, and here Polka similarly delivers. Stylish Polish dishes fly out of the kitchen and include hits like crispy duck served with beetroot and traditional bigos stew (the menu calls it a “noble” dish). They now serve a full breakfast menu (10:30 - 12:00 Mon-Fri) as well. And while meatballs and fish sticks might not be strictly Polish, their kids menu gets a good workout at this family-friendly venue.QI‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 19A, tel. (+48) 42 630 35 30, www.restauracjapolka.pl. Open 10:30 23:00, Sun 10:30 - 22:00. (35-99zł). T­U­G­S­W RAJSKIE JADŁO Overlooking the entrance to Manufaktura’s main shopping hub, Rajskie Jadło has a clean and simple no-frills interior with the downstairs wall decor comprised mainly of photo posters of lunch deals and, here’s the big plus point, their super cheap prices. The menu of soups, chicken, fish and pork dishes sticks close to what we would consider ‘Polish classics’. Taking a peek along the hot-plates it’s also nice to see that everything on offer looks perfectly prepared and appealing. Dinner sets are available for 17.90zł, with selections from meat or fish with potatoes, rice, groats with a salad mix.QI‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 19A, tel. (+48) 42 636 11 11, www.jesc.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

(16-25zł). T­6­G­S­W

VEGETARIAN ZIELONA As more and more artists and bloggers flock to vegetarianism/the vegan way of life, the more profit there is to be made from the many manipulations of kale. Zielona fills a healthy-living void that Łódź has sorely missed, albeit it’s a rather pricey option for those trying to stick to their New Years’ resolutions. Unfortunately for Zielona’s iyp.me/lodz

Manufaktura impressive interior, the service is unbearable. There’s a lot of frantic hand movements, awkward stares, and walking, but not a lot landing in front of customers. The food is basic but well executed - the only thing is just, it doesn’t feel like you’ve got what you paid for.QI‑2, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 632 16 96, www.restauracjazielona.pl.

Open 11:00 - 22:00. (22-33zł). T­6­U­G­W

CAFES COSTA COFFEE There’s already a full-service Costa Coffee stand inside Manufaktura, but if you’re looking to enjoy the Rynek with a latte in one hand and brownie in the other, this new location offers ideal people-watching and spurts of the kid-magnetizing fountains.QH‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 19A, tel. (+48) 42 630 05 99, www.costacoffee.pl. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. T­6­U­ G­S­W MAX ICE & COFFEE For those who don’t mess about with anything but the best. A mind-boggling array of ice creams served inside an informal interior that’s as popular with families as it is with girly teens giggling at text messages. Also at Rynek.QI‑2, ul.

Jana Karskiego 5, tel. (+48) 42 634 85 84, www.maxice.pl.

Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. T­U­G­S­W PIJALNIA CZEKOLADY E.WEDEL Poland’s first and most famous confectionary outlet, operating since 1851. The hot chocolate is their principal claim to fame, though their offerings extend to cakes and confectionary that have most Poles salivating at their very mention. Also at ul. Piotrkowska 69.QI‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 19A, tel. (+48) 42 631 00 36, www.wedelpijalnie.pl.

Open 10:00 - 22:00. T­U­S­W

Nightlife BIERHALLE There’s many reasons to visit Manufaktura, but they don’t get any better than Bierhalle – a top microbrewery where the five house lagers come served by cheerful wenches wearing Bavarian frocks. King of the bunch is the award winning pils with their milk stout coming in at a close second. Inside, explore a vast woodcut interior and watch the brewing process in action while chomping on burpy beer bites like Nuremberg sausage.QI‑3, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 632 03 76, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. G­W

is like spaceship meets factory and the cocktails are pretty decent as well, and could easily wipe your memory clean.

Look out for the SkyFly bar on the rooftop, open all year round 19:00-01:00 (closed Sun).QI‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (andel’s by Vienna House Łodz), tel. (+48) 42 279 16 24, www.viennahouse.com/pl/andels-lodz. Open 09:00 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. U­G­W

Entertainment ARENA LASER GAMES Laser-quest style entertainment inside an indoor labyrinth apparently filled with ‘surprises, traps and special effects’.

A modernisation has moved the game to the first floor next to Experymentarium and upped the space to 350 m2.QI‑2, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 633 52 62, www.arena-lasery.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 21:00. Admission 12-29zł.

CINEMA CITY A state-of-the-art 14 screen cinema with all the trimmings.

QI‑2, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 664 64 64, www. cinema-city.pl. Box office open 09:30 - 22:45. Tickets 16-33zł.

GRAKULA Find three pool tables, 28 bowling lanes, a dance floor, an arcade, a conference room and, best of all, two licenced bars.QI‑3, ul. Drewnowska 58A, tel. (+48) 42 630 40 52, www.grakula.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. Billards 10zł per half hour; bowling 8-16zł per game per person, 40-110zł per hour.

IMAX Fully air-conditioned, and allegedly one of most hi-tech IMAX cinemas in the world.QI‑2, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 664 64 64, www.cinema-city.pl/imax. Box office open 09:30 - 22:45. Tickets 25-36zł.

JAZDA!PARK Billiards, darts, arcade machines oh my. Also at (K-8) ul.

Piłsudskiego 5 (this location also has 8 bowling lanes).

QI‑2, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 633 50 18, www. jazdapark.pl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00.

OSCAR’S BAR A strange bar is Oscar’s, not least because the actual bar feels so disattached from everything around; you’ll find it in the lobby of the Andel’s, with no seats by the counter and well removed from those who want to use it. Fortunately that’s not a problem: the staff are eagle-eyed enough to ensure your glass is never empty. The post-modern design iyp.me/polandblog

January – April 2018

51

Manufaktura Sightseeing EXPERYMENTARIUM Whoa, here’s a museum that makes science fun, and in a way that rather than ordering you to ‘keep away from the glass’, actively encourages visitors to ‘push’, ‘touch’ and ‘enter.’ The experiments visitors get to play around with are the brainchild of Polish scientists and students, and revolve around ideas of light, sound, anatomy, nature and new discoveries. The space takes up 800m2 of the Manufaktura complex, and also features a wing designated for temporary exhibits from Polish and European institutions. Patrons include Łódź University and the Łódź Technical University. Your visit should take approximately 60 minutes, during which time you’ll wander a large open space filled with exhibitions.

Currently the main exhibits are the Experymentarium Exhibition, which includes mad light experiments, a ‘cosmic tunnel’, an area devoted to developing your senses of smell, hearing and touch without using your vision; Risk, which delves into why we take the risks we do and how humans rate the various risks in their lives; and a new interactive “Augmented Reality Sandbox”, which allows you to build 3-D topographical maps by shifting some sand in your hands. Always ones to keep on-the-ball, their latest VR gaming zone and Lazer maze are absolutely state of the art fun for the whole family.

QI‑2, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 633 52 62, www.experymentarium.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Admission 17/14zł. Family tickets 40zł/3person or 52zł/4-person. U MUSEUM OF ART IN ŁÓDŹ- MS² A very impressive space located in a building that once housed a 19th century weaving plant. Home to both temporary exhibitions and an impressive permanent collection entitled “The Art Collection of the XX and XXI Centuries”. The museum is home to more than 400 works of contemporary art and includes artists like Pablo Picasso, Tamás Kaszás and Paul Klee. There’s a constant cycle of cutting edge temporary exhibitions that are usually world class. The permanent collection can also said to be in flux as it is constantly being added to and rearranged by visiting curators. English translations and pamphlets are available plus an art cafe and a cracking bookshop.QI‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 19, tel. (+48) 42 634 39 48, www.msl.org.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibits 15/8zł, students 26 and under pay just 1zł. Thu is free for all exhibits. Combined tickets available for MS1, MS2 and Herbst Palace for 30/20zł.

52 Łódź In Your Pocket

MUSEUM OF THE CITY OF ŁÓDŹ Inside the breathtaking Neo-Baroque former residence of Łódź manufacturer Izrael Kalmanowicz Poznański, this museum within a museum, dedicated to the relatively short life and times of Poland’s second city from the end of the 19th century to the outbreak of WWII, knocks you out from the moment you walk through the front door.

Jammed full of exhibits tracing the history, people, culture and ups and downs of the city, find recreations of daily life from kitchen interiors to sections of streets. There are many fine examples of silverware and porcelain too, and rooms dedicated to many of the city’s former inhabitants, including Łódź’s unofficial Rubinstein museum (the only one in the world), giving over several rooms to the legendary Jewish pianist. Once this was the only section with English descriptions, but more and more sections are seeing translations added. The Jewish theme is admirably represented and includes a multimedia tribute to Jan Karski, the envoy of Poland’s underground authorities who first alerted the West to the Holocaust. Thoroughly recommended.QI‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 15, tel. (+48) 42 254 90 11, www.muzeum-lodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/8zł, temporary exhibits only 7/5zł. Wed free. N MUSEUM OF THE FACTORY Of all the museums in Łódź you won’t find any that are better geared towards the foreign visitor. All displays are complemented with thorough English explanations that put the majority of Polish museums to shame. Occupying a second floor space next to Manufaktura’s multiplex cinema this spot is more than just a diversion from your day’s shopping. From the moment you pay your admission fee it’s a trip back in time. This small but perfectly formed museum offers a complete history of the Manufaktura complex, complete with 4 working looms, a steam engine model, various dioramas and even a tiny cinema showing black and white mini-documentaries (15 mins. with English subtitles) of factory scenes. Its packed full of peculiar facts, and a look at the boards reveals untold trivia – for instance, the story behind one of the original architects of the complex, Dawid Rosenthal, who was shot by militant workers back in 1910. The photo montages offer a vivid trip through history, as well as moments of amusement; check the pictures of the factory’s sports teams and bands.

Take the trip up to the year-round viewing terrace (an extra 3/1.50zł) to get a birds eye view of the factory. Make sure to exit through gift shop, which features some English language books on the subject if you want to read more about this fascinating place.QI‑2, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 664 92 93, www.muzeumfabryki.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 7/5zł (9/6zł for exhibition and viewing tower) or family ticket 15zł (20zł for exhibition and viewing tower). For an English speaking guide reservations must be made two days in advance and will cost 85zł. Guided tours in Polish 30zł. Guided tours included in the price of the tickets Sat, Sun at 13:00 and 16:00 but only in Polish. N iyp.me/lodz

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Manufaktura ALCOHOL OLD HAVANA CIGARS & ACCESSORIES Wide selection of cigars, imported direct from the home of the world’s finest rollers, Havana. There is a massive range of Cohibas, Montecristos and the like, and the friendly, knowledgeable staff will help cigar beginners find their way through the endless choice.QH‑3, ul. Jana Karskiego 5, www.oldhavana.shop.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILMS

Shopping The crowning glory of Łódź’s shopping scene is not just another generic shopping centre, but a fantastically restored industrial complex, basking in red brick colours and relfective glass. With over 9,000 m2 of wood flooring the mall is split into four themes – industrial, cinema, design and textile – so as to make navigation easier. Those arriving with their kids in tow should consider dispatching them to the Jupi Park crèche found just off the Rynek.

Flagship stores include Leroy Merlin as well as a vast range of brand name clothing stores like Hugo Boss, Hilfiger, H&M, Timberland, TK Maxx and an Adidas superstore. In total over 300 retail units are occupied, with other tenants including the Smyk toy store, EMPiK and EURO RTV AGD. It’s not just mega-brand stores though that are drawing processions of spenders, but a top selection of specialist stores that you’ll be lucky to find elsewhere, let alone under one roof.

If you’re not ready to put your trust in Łódź’s restaurateurs then by all means, see if you can do better yourself. Your first point of call should be Kuchnie Świata (first floor). Fnd a collection of hard-to-find goodies that range from Israeli fruit drinks to Marmite to a range of sauces from across the world. What it lacks in size, it makes up for in choice.

EMPIK As the home of Poland’s famed film school Łódź can inspire visitors to pick up Polański’s Chinatown or Wajda’s Katyń after a wander through the Museum of Cinematography.

Empik also offers your best chance at English-language periodicals, plus CDs and a decent selection of Englishlanguage novels. Also at ul. Piłsudskiego 15/23 (L-8/9, Galeria Łódzka).QH‑3, ul. Jana Karskiego 5, tel. (+48) 22 462 72 50, www.empik.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES TIMBERLAND Top quality clothing and footwear for the outdoorsy type.QI‑3, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 634 83 33, www.e-timberland.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 21:00.

FOOD & SWEETS KUCHNIE ŚWIATA A lifeline for expats and contract workers, Kuchnie is nothing less than an Aladdin’s Cave of hard-to-find world food. Soft drinks, salsas, sauces, chocolate, cereals and raw ingredients from all corners of the world.QH‑3, ul. Jana Karskiego 5, tel. (+48) 42 631 17 09, www.kuchnieswiata. com.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

After, why not hit Old Havana for your post-dinner cigar.

Complete with a walk-in humidor chamber this is just the place for aficionados to test cigars imported from Cuba.

Other stores to watch for include an Apple iSpot store for all your Mac needs.

Outside the main range of shops don’t forego a visit to the craftsman’s alley between the Rynek and the mall; it’s here you’ll find all manner of stores including a cobbler, as well as privately run stores specialising in everything from metalwork to traditional rural-style souvenirs. The presence of much-hyped Magda Gessler-brand restaurant Polka is also a sure sign that Manufaktura has arrived. For a full map of the shopping centre or further info don’t be afraid to approach the English-speaking staff manning the information point at the main entrance to the mall.

54 Łódź In Your Pocket

iyp.me/lodz

OFF Piotrkowska

All sorts of artists peddle their wares at OFF’s regular courtyard fairs.

While Manufaktura is undoubtedly the rich and sanitised version of the ultimate shopping experience in postindustrial Łódź OFF Piotrkowska is an altogether different, unique and alternative proposition.

Situated just off ul. Piotrkowska (hence the name) between numbers 138-140, the complex has taken over the beautiful old cotton mill buildings of the former Ramisch factory (K-8). Originally from Czechoslovakia, the Ramisch family relocated to Łódź in the 1830’s and in 1850 purchased the first plot of land on which construction of the factory began; adjoining plots were purchased as the empire expanded. By 1909 the factory, in the very heart of the city, was firing on all cylinders. Production continued right up until 1990, after which the buildings and their rich heritage were all but forgotten about and the area fell into a sad and dilapidated state.

Towards the end of 2010 the massive potential of the area was spotted by the young and very enthusiastic artistic visionaries of the city, and a whole host of bars, clubs, alternative music venues, studios, independent design companies and publishing houses started appearing in the area.

Reminiscent of similar places in London or Berlin, OFF continues to attract new and off-beat local businesses with their pulse on current trends and fashions. The past, the present and the future all coexist magically without the need for the kind of massive investment which would ultimately strip the place of its ramshackle glamour. On the makeover point, it should be mentioned that the current developer/investor has already drawn up iyp.me/polandblog

plans for a total upgrading and renovation of the area in the style of a mini-Manufaktura; here’s hoping that never goes ahead!

To enter this gem of a place, head through the gate in the ugly sandstone coloured wall at ul. Piotrkowska 138 (K-8) into the large space of wasteland, which looks like a cleared minefield, pass Asian fast food huts, the drunken downand-outs and head towards the huge red brick buildings, you can’t really miss them! This is the alternative beating heart of the city which, unsurprisingly enough, also plays host to the fantastic Fotofestiwal every June. NOT to be missed.

ASIAN GOOD MORNING VIETNAM Before there was OFF there were Vietnamese food huts crowded in the abandoned courtyard of a rotting factory.

Now things have come full circle and this new late night Vietnamese fast food joint is the first and last point of entry in what is arguably the most popular districts in all of Poland. Their exhaustive menu of Vietnamese, Chinese and Thai street food has something for everyone, you just have to find it. Luckily the likely line will give you time to zero in on the pork, chicken, fish, seafood or vegetarian dish of your choosing. We kept it clean and ordered the Pho bo soup and it was so good we went back the next day and tried the Malaysian panga over rice. It was so good we wanted to grab a mic and shout over the OFF airwaves…

QK‑8, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140. Open 11:00 - 03:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. (1020zł). 6­U­N­S January – April 2018

55

OFF Piotrkowska

Photo: Zosia Wawrzyniak

INTERNATIONAL DOKI GASTROBAR This towering domino stack of sheik shipping containers is perhaps the perfect visualisation of how trendy OFF Piotrkowska has become. We don’t mean this in a bad way at all. And their stylish street food menu manages to hit on all the trendiest foods that many of OFF’s other establishments have brought to the city. Hamburgers and frites… check, Tapas… check, Seafood...check, Vegan and Vegetarian dishes… check.. Craft beer… check… Bespoke cocktails... check. Not only is this now the place to be seen but climb the domino stack and enjoy your savoury snack and bubbly beverage in their heated rooftop terrace view over all that frontside OFF has to offer. It’s more than just Oki, this is Doki!QK‑8, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 42 307 31 01. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.

From March open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.

(22-89zł). T­6­G­S­W FARINA BIANCO Farina Bianco came along suddenly in a white flash and flourish of bold design armed with bold flavours and ambitious dishes steeped deep in Italian tradition. As soon as you step foot inside you will feel drawn to the warm and bright interiors. Choose from a first floor perch or the downstairs multilevel dining areas (wine bar as well).

We chose the latter with a view of the wood burning pizza oven. After spending longer than we should have perusing the mouth watering menu we decided to truly test the merit of their kitchen by ordering the tripe soup followed by grilled sea bass. Now, it is truly a rare site to find tripe on a non-Polish fine dining menu as it is a tricky dish to prepare and a bit taboo. Our instincts paid off and we were served a perfectly balanced bowl of delicately textured perfection. The sea bass was equally good with an intricate and flavourful bed of fava bean, chanterelle and almonds topped with a soy sauce vinaigrette. We can’t wait to actually try their Italian specialties next time.

QK‑8, Al. Piłsudskiego 14, tel. (+48) 601 70 07 15, www. farinabianco.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.

(20-64zł). T­6­G­S­W 56 Łódź In Your Pocket

MITMI RESTOBAR It’s not often that one ventures into an eatery in Poland at 17:00 and has to squeeze in at the bar because every table is occupied, but that was exactly the case at MITMI (pronounced ‘Meat Me’). The Rib Eye Steak and the Beef Cheeks in Porto sauce are the stars of the menu here, and although not a burger bar, the locals accuse their juicy patties of being the best in town. The drinks list is as long as an orangutan’s arm and includes a few good ciders.

In keeping with many ‘OFF’ venues, MITMI features an attractive semi-industrial interior with lots of raw brickwork, and metal lamps that you may have already seen elsewhere.

Gold stars to the attentive staff, who kept the whole show running smoothly even though the place was mobbed.

Check out the walls for illustrations that change on a regular basis.QK‑8, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 508 52 35 66. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (22-50zł). T­6­G­W SPÓŁDZIELNIA There’s a strong sense of being a place ‘to be seen’ when it comes to Spółdzielnia, and with good reason. The missmatched design components blend seamlessly to create a lovely space complete with a cozy kids corner. Bury your head in the wrapping paper menu, cradle a craft beer and dig into the grub on offer which is a range of snacky appetizers, salads galore, mains and even a separate woodfired pizza menu. Try the slammin’ salmon in bourbon. It’s also a great place to just have beer and do what the crowds do, watch the world go by with a stiff upper lip. There is no denying that Spółdzielnia is an institution when it comes to Łódź’s ‘bohemian’ scene. You’ll see what we mean.QK‑8, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 786 25 85 55, www. spoldzielnia-lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (27-65zł). T­6­G­S­W SZYBY LUSTRA Emerging from our tram stop on Aleja Piłsudskiego we noticed their neon sign and large windows from afar through the hazey filter of the ongoing construction. We had to circumnavigate a minor pedestrian detour to get in the door, but once we did our jaw hit the floor. With a slight retro diner feel, this thoroughly modern gastronomic outpost is up to something big. The regularly changing menu reads like a who’s who of the trendiest and tastiest comfort foods on the planet from burgers (pulled beef cheeks!) and from Tagliatelli Nero to Vietnamese Pho. While lesser establishments might falter with such a scattered menu, every dish we tried was better than the last. While you certainly pay for what you get, a cheaper and popular option is their daily lunch – soup and a main special (also great breakfasts till noon). Wash down whatever delectable morsel you choose to devour with a local craft brew, glass of wine, lemonade or coffee drink. Quite simply a revelation and a revolution. Don’t forget to check out the daily lunch menu, all for 19zł.QK‑8, Al. Piłsudskiego 14, tel. (+48) 534 30 24 13, www.szybylustra.com. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Fri 08:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (3265zł). T­6­V­G­S­W iyp.me/lodz

OFF Piotrkowska VEGETARIAN PORCJA Just off the radar of OFF Piotrkowska is this healthy, hearty, heady and hip little cafe bistro. They offer up all sorts of vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free, lactose-free, sugar-free and whatever-allergies-you-might-have free. Their set seasonal menu changes every month or two but expect exotic salads, handy sandwiches, exotic snacks and truly super soups, plus a cheap and filling two course daily lunch special (14zł!) that changes every day. Stop in early for a cup of bio kawa (w/ or w/o caffeine) breakfast or one of their famous vegan cakes. Big portions, healthy shakes and positive vibes round out this bright spot.QK‑8, ul.

Roosevelta 7, tel. (+48) 885 22 28 85. Open 11:30 - 19:00.

Closed Sun. (14-29zł). T­6­V­G­S­W

Nightlife BARS & PUBS MEBLOTEKA YELLOW We like Mebloteka very much indeed, with its laid back hodge podge of mismatched 1970’s tables and chairs, a gallery and a design shop all battling it out for a bit of space amongst the chattering and excitable clientele. As well as being popular with the locals it also attracts lots of foreigners who live in the city and the number of languages overheard being spoken by the customers makes for a great international atmosphere in the heart of Łódź.

Cakes, coffees, juices and a short menu of mainly salads are available but be sure to check out the small brewery beers on offer, including the all-natural Browar Zamkowy beers from Silesia. Go easy on the booze though, as you WILL end up buying most of the cool stuff from the design shop.QK‑8, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 504 34 40 32. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 02:00. 6­G­W SPALENI SŁOŃCEM Unpretentious and care-free, Spaleni Słońcem (‘Burnt By the Sun’) has a great Kreuzberg feel to it. The industrial fixtures and fittings were bought from one of the local textile mills and installed to create a genuine factory feel to the bar. The bar itself is made up from a huge workshop

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chest of drawers and the wall murals, by local art star Jan Jubaal Wasiński, are a contemporary take on the realist paintings of 19th century Polish artist Józef Chełmoński.

They have new cocktails on offer and the beer menu includes a range of Łódź Brewery electric soups plus peanuts and other great vegan snacks (sunflower seed paté with pitas!). In the summer months you can sprawl out on the outdoor palette-built platform and really get burnt by the sun!QK‑8, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 721 29 87 33. Open 14:00 - 01:00, Tue, Thu 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00. 6­G­W

CLUBS DOM Dom is so new they were still shifting furniture around when we paid the entrance fee for the evening’s latest DJ. The club itself looks like squatters have taken over an empty industrial space: it’s nothing but concrete, a simple bar in an open room. The sparseness here works; the focus is on the rotating DJs (we got to see the hilariously named Hungry Hungry Models) and nothing more.QK‑8, ul.

Piotrkowska 138/140. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 06:00. E­G­W

Shopping ANTIQUES & ART GALLERIES ANTYKWARIAT KOMIKS - BÓG SIĘ RODZI While it might not look like much from the outside this shop is packed to the rafters with all manner of old and new books related to music and a boat load of vintage vinyl records. They also have all sorts of antique books and one of the best comics collections in the city.QJ‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 37, tel. (+48) 42 207 34 77, www. antykwariat-bazar.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES PAN TU NIE STAŁ Way back in 2008 Justyna Burzyńska and Maciej Lebiedowicz started sharing their love of PRL-era design and typography on their blog. Interest blossomed and soon they began producing limited edition t-shirts which sold like hot pierogi! The obvious next step was to set up shop. The range of funky goods and items expanded to include badges, belts, bags, scarves and hats aimed primarily at the young and arty hipster set. Well designed, smart and funny, all the products make for great and very affordable presents from some top Łódź designers. The name, “Pan tu nie stał” (“You weren’t standing here, sir”), is a comic reference to a regularly used phrase for queue barging during the martial law period of the early 80’s.

QK‑8, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 42 257 28 32, www.pantuniestal.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00.

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Freedom Square is the gateway to Łódż’s main thoroughfare.

Łódź Sightseeing Despite a long association with industry and being the City of Film and Cinema, Łódź has not only revitalised these aspects of its image, but has outgrown these basic labels to become so much more. There’s a lot to be discovered here, so let us help you sift through this city’s bag of tricks. Read on over the next few pages...

Essential Łódź

Piotrkowska street

MAx 92, Wikipedia, CC BY-SA 3.0

Most trips to Łódź will most likely begin on one street in particular: ulica Piotrkowska (J-4/K-10). Measuring a little under five kilometres, it ranks as Europe’s longest pedestrian street and is lined with restaurants, beer gardens, hot-dog stands, and a mix of Neo-Renaissance and Art Nouveau buildings. Starting at the Tadeusz Kościuszko statue (J-4) the street stretches southwards with crews of all-yearround rickshaws (5zł from end to end) spiriting travellers to the destination of choice. Check out the courtyard at Piotrkowska 3 where you’ll find Róża’s passage (p.65), a fantastic piece of urban art with mirror shard mosaics covering the buildings.

It may seem unlikely but Łódź is also Poland’s answer to Tinseltown. Having produced directors like Wajda, Polański and Kieślowski the Polish Hollywood (p.64) has made an undeniable impact on world cinema. Opened in 1986 and housed inside Karol Scheibler’s extraordinary 19thcentury palace, the Museum of Cinematography (p.65) is essentially two unique attractions in one. The museum itself offers an extremely well-presented history of Polish cinema and takes plenty of hats off to the multitude of Polish film greats who studied in the city before going on to greater things, as well as numerous changing exhibitions. This is the only museum of its kind in Poland, and a rewarding experience for fans of Polish cinema.

Museum of the Factory in Manufaktura

Jewish Cemetery

Jarosław Klamka CC BY-SA 3.0

If you wish to experience a more interactive museum, the former power station turned cultural centre EC1 (p.64) houses the planetarium and science and technology centre. If, however, you’re a bit exhausted after all these museum visits head to OFF Piotrkowska (p.55) to unwind.

This is yet another Post-Industrial enclave of former factory buildings that have been converted to bars, restaurants and cafes. Unlike Manufaktura, OFF is decidedly more alternative and plays host to many of the city’s more cutting edge festivals, fairs and concerts.

The industrialist Łódz is most famous for however is none other than Izrael Poznański, and his palace is now home to the Museum of the City of Łódź (p.50). His factory has since been developed into the Manufaktura shopping and leisure complex, and it’s here you’ll also find the official museum of the site - Museum of the Factory (p.50).

Poznański was Jewish by birth and you can visit his fearsome mausoleum (the biggest Jewish tomb in the iyp.me/polandblog

world) at Europe’s largest Jewish cemetery (p.9), founded in 1892, it contains over 180,000 tombs. Łódź is famous for its Jewish heritage, though this was all but wiped out in WWII when the city became the home of the notorious Litzmannstadt Ghetto. Over 230,000 Jews were confined here, with over 200,000 eventually transferred to death camps. Jews were transferred to camps from Radegast Station (p.8) and today visitors can view three cattle trucks that have since been preserved. But the suffering was by no means exclusive to Jews, as a visit to the Radogoszcz Prison Museum (p.61) proves. Formerly a factory this brick building was transformed by the Nazis into a prison holding Polish socialists and intelligentsia. The exhibition offers a disturbing look at life under occupation, as does the Museum of the Tradition of Independence (p.61).

A visit to this former Tsarist prison offers a chronological journey through the misfortunes Łódź suffered under the rule of Imperial Russia, Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union.

Plac Wolności

Photo by Kozłowski, Kaczmarkiewicz

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Sightseeing CHURCHES CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL The city’s Roman Catholic Cathedral is the biggest church in Łódź. A true Gothic masterpiece it was built between 1901 and 1912 by the famous Łódź builders Wende & Zarske from original drawings supposedly supplied by the Berlin architect, Emil Zillmann. Styled along the lines of a typical medieval cathedral with three aisles, transept, choir, ambulatory and Lady Chapel, the interior is famous for being rather severe. Damaged by a fire in 1971, the Cathedral has been painstakingly restored including the addition of a new roof supported by modern steel trusses.

On the Chancery’s side find a small Cenotaph dedicated to the Unknown Soldier, and on the opposite side a monument to Father Skorupka, a Roman Catholic priest who is believed to have made a great contribution to the country’s victory over the Bolsheviks in 1920.QK‑11, ul.

Piotrkowska 265, tel. (+48) 42 636 03 83, www.katedra. lodz.pl. Open daily to worshippers 07:00 - 19:00. Visits should be organised in advance over the phone.

ORTHODOX CHURCH One of two Orthodox churches in the city, the domed neo-Byzantine St. Alexander Nevsky is the most interesting of the pair and serves as an official cathedral of the Łódź-Poznań Bishop. Said to have been designed by the official city architect Hilary Majewski between 1881 and 1884 as a gift from Łódź’s industrialists to the Orthodox community, the church has many ornate elevations and a breathtakingly rich interior featuring iconostasis made in St. Petersburg.QL‑5, ul. Kilińskiego 56, tel. (+48) 42 633 41 69, www.cerkiewlodz.pl. Open by prior arrangement for groups but individuals can attend the 09:00 service on Saturdays or the 10:00 service on Sundays. Call between 10:00 and 13:00 to arrange a tour for a group.

ST. JOSEPH’S CHURCH Made from larch wood, this diminutive church stands in stark contrast to the hulking brick behemoth Manufaktura across the street. This small church was built between 176568 and was originally situated in Kościelny Square under the name the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. As the city boomed so did the congregation, which grew to 6,000 members when it was decided that a larger brick church was needed as replacement. Bishop Jan Siemiec decided to move the wooden church to its current spot on Ogrodowa – at the time home to an abandoned cemetery – and the building was moved piece by piece overnight by local factory workers to its present location in 1888, where it was consecrated by the Bishop of Warsaw as St. Joseph’s. As a result the church is the oldest and most humble house of worship in the city and possesses just one nave, a shingle roof and a tiny steeple. The church’s interior has recently undergone an impressive renovation and is worth a peek inside. Of particular interest is the neoBaroque main altar, paid for somewhat surprisingly by the Jewish factory owner Israel Poznański. The free-standing bell tower, depending on whom you wish to believe, either 60 Łódź In Your Pocket

Arthur Rubinstein’s Piotrkowska Piano

dates from the 18th century and along with the church is the only pre-19th century building in the city, or was built from concrete in 1922. If the latter, then it has since been clad in wood.QI‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 22, tel. (+48) 42 633 76 06, www.jozef.org.pl. Church opens 30mins before morning mass (7:00 during the week and 8:30 on Sundays).

MONUMENTS ARTHUR RUBINSTEIN’S PIANO Szytenchelm’s idea of adding Julian Tuwim to Piotrkowska proved so popular he expanded on it, adding the figure of Artur Rubinstein to Piotrkowska 78 - the address where he once lived - a year later. Weighing one ton, and depicting the pianist dwarfed behind a winged piano, the sculpture created a storm. A music box was part of the original parcel, and with the insertion of a two złoty coin visitors could choose a piano tune which would then be played.

The tourists loved it, the critics hated it – not to mention the residents who lived directly above the incessant fairground noise. Local art figures slammed the installation, citing amateur workmanship and shoddy proportions. Ewa Rubinstein, the pianist’s daughter, threw her toys right out of the pram and at one stage threatened to boycott the city unless the statue was removed. Moved to voice her anger to the President and Prime Minister she was eventually placated by the permanent removal of the music box, and rumours persist of the statue’s impending demise.QJ‑6, ul.

Piotrkowska 78.

JARACZ’S CHAIR Unveiled on June 10, 2006, here’s yet another work from the hand of Marcel Szytenchelm. Melded from bronze this number depicts Stefan Jaracz (1883-1945), a distinguished star of the Polish stage. For years he served Warsaw’s Ateneum Theatre as director, as well as being a bit of a name in the theatres of Łódź. He survived wartime imprisonment in Auschwitz only to die months after liberation in 1945. This monument sees our man sat on a theatre chair, with three vacant spots next to him for the benefit of those who’ve just trekked it up Piotrkowska.

QK‑8, ul. Piotrkowska 152. iyp.me/lodz

Sightseeing JULIAN TUWIM’S BENCH Łódź-born Julian Tuwim (1894 - 1953) was a Jewish writer and poet who studied law and philosophy at Warsaw University and was the co-founder and leader of the Skamander group in 1919. A major figure in Polish literature, best remembered for his contribution to children’s literature, Wojciech Gryniewicz’s comical statue dates from 1999, and was based on a design by Marcel Szytenchelm - it was to be the first of many statues of eminent citizens to be unveiled on Piotrkowska. A favourite meeting spot, children like to sit on his lap and it’s considered good luck for lovers to rub his nose.QK‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 104.

MIŚ USZATEK MONUMENT What started off as a novelty has turned into a downright obsession with monuments. Unveiled on October 24, 2009 as part of the 9 Łódź Bajkowa monuments, this little fella, created by the famous Se-ma-for animation studio (p.63) in Łódź, is Miś Uszatek, a fictional cartoon bear who has been entertaining Polish kids since 1957, complete with trademark floppy ear.QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 87.

GUIDED TOURS GRUPA FABRICUM City tours available upon request for individuals, business clients and groups.QI‑2, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 535 09 20 86, www.fabricum.pl. Office open 09:00 - 17:00.

PTTK - POLISH TOURIST AND SIGHTSEEING SOCIETY The PTTK society provides tours, available on foot, bike and individual guided tours, but only upon request.

Contact them to arrange or find out more.QL‑9, ul.

Wigury 12A, tel. (+48) 42 636 87 64, www.lodz.pttk.pl.

Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Guides: English, German, Russian, French, Spain, Italian. 360zł/5hrs.

SEGWAY TOURS And so, the Segway makes it to Łódź. Yet while it’s a candidate for the most twittish looking transport contraption ever invented, there’s no doubt these two wheel weirdoes are rollicking good fun. Better still, go with a guide (you need to call in advance) and you get the added benefit of learning about Łódź in a series of languages: English, German, Italian, Spanish etc. Tours take place in winter, weather depending.QSosnowiec 30, Stryków, tel. (+48) 42 630 30 38/(+48) 781 81 81 39, www.segway-tours.pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Sat, Sun open by prior arrangement.

TOURIST INFORMATION

THE LAMP MAN Appearing in September 2007, this creation by Marcel Szytenchelm features a rather curious bloke climbing a ladder to fit a bulb onto a streetlight. Weighing more than a tonne the monument was unveiled to coincide with the 100th anniversary of the first electric streetlight to appear in the city. Replacing the old gas fired streetlamps, Łódź’s first electric light was once found on this very spot, right outside what was in those days regarded as the most exclusive shop in town – the American ‘Diamant Palace.’QJ‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 37.

THREE FACTORY OWNERS Łódź is generally believed to be the creation of three visionary industrialists, celebrated here in a bronze statue dating from 2002. The three men in question are the Jewish philanthropist and industrialist Israel Poznański (1833-1900), Henryk Grohman (1862-1939), industrialist and patron of the arts and Karol Scheibler (1820-1881), creator of the city’s extraordinary Księży Młyn.QJ‑5, ul.

Piotrkowska 30/32. iyp.me/polandblog

ŁÓDŹ TOURISM ORGANISATION Brand new tourist information office at Piotrkowska 28 provided by the Łódź Tourism Organisation. The Englishspeaking staff will provide you with maps and guides in a number of different languages. An Internet terminal offers access to Łódź tourism sites, though folks toting their laptops can access free wi-fi.QJ‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 28, tel. (+48) 722 00 53 14, www.en.cit.lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

SOCIETY OF FRIENDS OF OLD ŁÓDŹ A volunteer organisation selling books about Łódź in Polish and English but also providing tourist information.QJ‑2, Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 42 661 46 66. Open 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TOURIST INFORMATION POINT Tourist information is available at the heart of the Manufaktura complex in a specially built hut. Find guides, audio guides, maps, souvenirs and lots of information about Łódź and the region from friendly English-speaking staff.QI‑3, ul. Drewnowska 58 (Rynek), tel. (+48) 695 13 11 13, www.lodzkie.travel.

Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

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Sightseeing

The Three Factory Owners

WŁADYSŁAW REYMONT’S TRUNK Polish writer and winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1924. Brought up in the town of Tuszyn, close to Łódź, his early life proved inauspicious, with his only formal certificate of education being a qualification as a journeyman tailor.

Refusing to make use of such a skill he ran away from home to join a travelling theatre, though financial practicalities forced him to return to his family where he worked for a while as a gateman at the railway crossing near Koluszki.

The job failed to grasp his imagination and he worked for a while as a medium alongside a German spiritualist, before once again joining a theatre group. The publication of his work Korespondencje in 1892 saw another career turn and he travelled to Warsaw to pursue a life of writing. Over the following years he became one of Poland’s most prolific and admired writers, and his book Chłopi beat the likes of Mann, Hardy and Gorky to claim the Nobel Prize. Like his book Ziemia Obiecana, Chłopi is a moral tale presented to a background of gritty, industrial-age Łódź. He died the following year in 1925. The statue you see is yet another work credited to the prolific hand of Marcel Szytenchelm and was unveiled in 2001.QK‑8, ul. Piotrkowska 137.

MUSEUMS CENTRAL MUSEUM OF TEXTILES To understand exactly what Łódź is all about, and to really get under the city’s skin, a visit to the Textile Museum is a good place to start. Although everything is displayed in Polish only, the two floors of exhibition rooms containing a mind-boggling array of steam-driven looms, fabricprinting machines, contrasting recreations of how the workers and their factory-owning bosses lived and worked, original paintings of Łódź in its 19th-century heyday, lace, rugs and other paraphernalia connected to the textile industry speak volumes about the city that’s often referred to as the Manchester of Poland. The icing on the cake: the museum is housed inside Ludwig Geyer’s mammoth 19thcentury White Factory, an extraordinary building worthy of a journey in itself.QK‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 282, tel. (+48) 42 683 26 84, www.muzeumwlokiennictwa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/8zł.

Thu free for permanent exibitions. U­N 62 Łódź In Your Pocket

HERBST PALACE The Herbst Palace is inseparably linked to the history of the Herbst and the Scheibler families, considered the wealthiest and most influential industrialist families not only in Łódź, but in all of Poland in the 2nd half of the 19th century. The design of the interiors and the new arrangement of the rooms were based on documents from the Office of the Head Conservationist and archival photographic material that was uncovered. New sources of information have have enabled preservationists to restore the interiors to what they might have looked like when the Herbst family lived in the Palace.

When in the 1970s the villa of the Herbst family was taken over by the Muzeum Sztuki (Museum of Art) in Łódź to transform it into a functioning exhibition of its interiors, the lack of original furnishings and sufficient documentation were serious challenges. The Palace was initially designed based on much more limited access to information and archival materials. Recent research studies have substantially expanded the Museum’s knowledge in these areas.

Following the renovation the rooms in the Palace are more impressive and much closer to the original style. Details have been carefully restored, the furniture in the exhibition has been renovated and the current wallpaper pattern is much more similar to the historical original as well. The exhibition shows lavishly furnished representation halls and private rooms of the owners while new exhibition layout smoothly pulls you into the spirit of the epoch.

QO‑10, ul. Przędzalniana 72, tel. (+48) 42 674 96 98, www.palac-herbsta.org.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission to one out of three permanent exhibits is 15/8zł, students under 26 1zł; Thu free for all exhibits.

Combined tickets available for MS1, MS2 and Herbst Palace for 30/20zł.

MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY AND ETHNOGRAPHY Established in 1931 and one of the leading research institutions of its kind in the country, this charming little museum is packed with intricately carved swords and muskets, archaeological finds from Palaeolithic Poland including flint axes, pots and the customary skeleton in a glass case, charming models of river settlements from the 3rd century and recreations of 19th-century peasant

Museum of Archaeplogy and Ethnography

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Sightseeing houses. If the idea of being followed by the staff doesn’t worry you in the least then this museum can’t come recommended highly enough.The other branch of the museum Łęczycka Zagroda Chłopska - Zagroda will reopen daily in April. open from 10:00-18:00. Admission 9/6zł.QJ‑4, Pl. Wolności 14, tel. (+48) 42 632 84 40, www.maie.lodz.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 9/6zł, Tue free. N MUSEUM OF ART IN ŁÓDŹ - MS¹ This superb museum and gallery features a worthy modern art exhibition - called Open Composition - courtesy of progressive artists from a number of countries, including Poland.QI‑5, ul. Więckowskiego 36, tel. (+48) 42 633 97 90, www.msl. org.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibitions 10/5zł students under 26 pay just 1zł. Thu is free for all exhibits. Combined tickets available for MS1, MS2 and Herbst Palace for 30/20zł.

MUSEUM OF THE TRADITION OF INDEPENDENCE Set inside a former Tsarist prison your tour begins on the ground floor, where a walk around the former cells allows visitors to glimpse depressing sights like huge, rusty restraints, a pitch-black isolation cell and playing cards and chess sets produced by the inmates. From there the museum is a chronological journey on the “Roads to Independence” experienced in the city, covering the years 1791-1921. The 1905 workers’ revolution is covered in detail, with prisoners letters and presses used to print inflammatory leaflets all on display. There is a new exhibition entitled “The Prison on Długa St. In Łódź from 1885-1953”. Hugely interesting, though the paucity of English-language translations is guaranteed to frustrate.QI‑4, ul. Gdańska 13, tel. (+48) 42 632 71 12, www. muzeumtradycji.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Fri. Admission free.

SE-MA-FOR MUSEUM OF ANIMATION You probably already know, or perhaps you didn’t and may be surprised to learn, that Łódź is the Hollywood of Poland, often referred to as Hollyłódź. Animation is a big thing here and no more so is this embodied in Se-ma-for, the studio which created not one but two Oscar winning animated short films: ‘Tango’ (1981) by Zbigniew Rybczyński and an adaptation of musician Sergei Prokofiev’s ‘Peter and the Wolf’ (2006). The studio is also legendary for its creation Miś Uszatek (p.61), a cartoon bear who has been entertaining Polish children since 1957! Learn about these productions, and the history of the studio at the museum, not far from Piotrkowska street. An interactive experience for both adults and children, English tours are available, provided you call in advance to arrange it; they even offer workshops on making animated videos, and again, you need to reserve a space in advance for specific dates, including English guides.QL‑10, ul. Sienkiewicza 100, tel. (+48) 512 01 10 71, www.se-mafor.com. Admission 20/15zł, family ticket (dependent on group size 45-55zł). Group tickets 15zł per person (10 people or more).Children under 3 go free. iyp.me/polandblog

RADOGOSZCZ PRISON MUSEUM The hasty Nazi retreat left Radogoszcz Prison a smouldering shell, but its importance as a site of struggle and martyrdom was not lost on the locals.

Work began immediately to conserve the prison as a memorial for all who suffered within and an exhibition was opened on the third anniversary of Łódź’s liberation, while in 1961 a thirty metre spire was unveiled on the site of the former camp. The courtyard, slightly smaller than the original, is now home to numerous artsy memorials. A number of plaques commemorate those who died within and those Łódź citizens deported to Mauthausen and Dachau. Along the exterior wall on ul. Zgierska is a mass grave of 37 unidentified victims.

The exhibition hall lies just beyond the hollow shell of the factory, and inside the displays are accompanied by English text. The prescribed tour takes visitors through a chronological history of wartime Poland beginning with the 1939 invasion and the subsequent battle for Łódź. Posters calling men to arms, gas masks and grenades sit behind glass cases, paying tribute to those who gallantly resisted the Nazi war machine. Innocuous items like beer bottles, cigarette boxes and tea cups sit alongside more sinister displays like Germanized street signs, execution lists and photos of Łódź decked out with fluttering swastikas. It looks chilling enough, but it’s not half as thought-provoking as what lies in store.

Beyond the initial displays are the mug shots of dozens of children sent away to be ‘Germanized’ in the camp on ul. Sporna 73. Next up is a section devoted to the Jewish Ghetto, with items of note including ghetto currency and the mandatory yellow stars. Further on there’s also a display of letters from concentration camp prisoners, striped uniforms and even a bar of soap allegedly made from human fat. Your tour concludes with a couple of rooms dedicated to Radogoszcz itself.

Standing centre stage are copies of a flogging block and a prisoner’s bunk, while clinging to the walls are the photos of inmates as well as images of cheery looking guards. None of this prepares you for the final room, however. It’s here that the events of January 18th, 1945 are remembered. The photographs of charred, burned bodies leave nothing to the imagination, while making the display all the more poignant are a collection of singed family photographs recovered from the dead.

There is one permanent exhibition “Radogoszcz 1939 - 1945”. Please note, the museum opening hours are likely to be affected from March onward due to long-term renovations. Check their website for live info.Qul. Zgierska 147, tel. (+48) 42 655 36 66, www.muzeumtradycji.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

Closed Mon. Admission free.

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Sightseeing NEW CENTRE FOR SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY EC1 Step by step, bit by bit over many years, EC1 has gradually come to life. Allusions to the Death Star were frequent for a long time, however, EC1 has steadily crept towards becoming fully operational. And now, finally, in January 2018, the Centre for Science and Technology (part of EC1 West) has opened! Time for the fun to begin for children and adults alike - remember, this was once a fully operational power station (from 1907-2000), so the majority of the giant machinery you see lying around is original. Indeed, so important is this hardware, the majority of it features in the main exhibition ‘Producing Energy’, which takes you through the step by step process of how electricity is produced, right from the coal arriving to the former station, right up until energy is produced for you to boil the kettle and turn on your light switches. Venture onward for the truly fascinating stuff - the intricacies of the universe, where you’ll learn during the ‘Micro World - Macro World’ exhibition within the mightily impressive spherical 3D cinema. Yes, that big silver golf ball! Entering feels like a mix between being Professor X entering Cerebro, or an excited contestant dashing into the Crystal Maze.

And on that note, remember the most important thing: have fun, and open your mind to the experience. Don’t forget to check out the planetarium (p.69), also part of the EC1 complex.QL‑6, ul. Targowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 539 99 76 93, www.ec1lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 2 hours before closing. Admission 22,50/16,20zł/; Family ticket 54zł (2 adults +2 children), 51,30zł (2 adults +1 child); Group tickets 12,60zł per person (15 people or more). Sat, Sun admission 30,60/21,14zł; Family ticket 75,60zł (2 adults +2 children), 70,20zł (2 adults +1 child); Group tickets 18zł per person (15 people or more).

PLACES OF INTEREST FOUNTAIN OF LOVE Standing in the shadow of the Kościuszko statue on pl. Wolności (right in front of Café Wiedeńska) is Łódź’s favourite fountain. Originally constructed in the 1930s by students from the local arts school the fountain was allowed to fall into disrepair in the post-war years. The renovated version was finally unveiled in July 2004, and its proximity to the nearby church make it a favoured backdrop for newlyweds to pose in front of. Its moniker, ‘The Fountain of Love,’ stems from the legend that if two lovers wash their faces in its water their love will be eternal.

QJ‑3, Pl. Wolności.

OLD CEMETERY A vast necropolis founded in 1858 to serve those of Catholic, Evangelical and Orthodox faiths. It’s here you’ll find the tombs of Łódź’s most eminent citizens, including the tombs of industrialists such as Beiderman, Grohman, Geyer and Kindermann. The undisputed 64 Łódź In Your Pocket

highlight is the Scheibler tomb, built in the form of a Neo-Gothic church, and commonly accepted as the most striking tomb in Poland. The sporadic disrepair adds to the atmosphere.QG‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 39. Open 07:00 - 17:00.

OLD TOWN SQUARE On the face of it there’s very little to see in Łódź’s Old Town Square – for a start it’s grey, barren and not old in the slightest. The buildings you see in front of it are Stalinera finest, and went up right after the war. Indeed, the grandiose squares of Kraków and Warsaw have little to fear, but to ignore it entirely would be a schoolboy error.

Firstly, and rather obviously, the square didn’t always look like this. Before the war this was the heart of what was a thriving Jewish community, and in its heyday was home to a timber town hall and a small lake on the southern end.

Houses of sturdier material were added in the 19th century, and in the 20th century the western front was occupied by market stalls designed by the eminent architect of the time, Marconi, and the square was deemed sufficiently upmarket for one of Izrael Poznański’s sons to take up quarters there.

When WWII broke out it formed the very southern edge of the ghetto, and a wooden bridge was added over ul.

Nowomiejska to link the square with the western side of the ghetto. Following the war the communists decided to get rid of the old buildings and demolished everything in the sight. The architect in charge of the project was Ryszard Karlowicz, and he was under orders to follow the ideals of Socialist Realism – a severe artistic style pegged to strict guidelines from a Soviet masterplan. He didn’t disappoint, coming up with a network of uniform looking streets with a simple classicist form that were designed to honour both patriotic and socialist ideals. The square was later topped off in 1964 with a statue of commie agitator Julian Marchlewski, though that fell victim to the iconoclastic fury that erupted once the communists were booted out.

Instead, today you’ll find a memorial stone in its place, added in 1998 to mark the 575th anniversary of the first recorded mention of Łódź. While it might look a bit bleak and boring the area is certainly well worth a snoop – see if you can spot the hammer and sickle on ul. Podrzeczna.

QJ‑2.

PALM HOUSE Completely renovated in 2003 and now the most modern example of its kind in Poland, the quirky Palm House is a delight for green-fingered jungle types. One of the warmest and most relaxing places to visit in the whole city, exhibits include 20 very precious palm trees and plants that have been growing here for 150 years plus a total of 4500 plants spread over three buildings. Perhaps strangest of all is the experience you feel when you look up and see bananas growing. Mind out for the meat-eating plants too, and be sure to leave your dog at home.QO‑8, Al. Piłsudskiego 61 (Park Źródliska 1), tel. (+48) 42 674 96 65, www.botaniczny.lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00.

Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.

Admission 10/5zł. N iyp.me/lodz

Sightseeing STREET ART INSTALLATION

MURALS

RÓŻA’S PASSAGE Walking through the courtyard from Piotrkowska 3 (or from ul. Zachodnia 56) really highlights how such a simple idea can have a big impact. Róża’s Passage brings light and intrigue to this once gloomy spot with a rundown hotel later turned into residential flats, by creating funky mosaics that reflect natural light via thousands of mirror shards. The effect is stunning and truly transforms the surrounding buildings. Creator Joanna Rajkowska (also responsible for the palm tree in Warsaw!) chose the name after her daughter, Róża, who at a young age was diagnosed with a rare form of eye cancer. Following chemotherapy, she was again able to see. Róża’s Passage underwent the same journey, as, in the author’s own words, [it went] “from not seeing to seeing”.QJ‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 3. Courtyard open daily 08:00 - 22:00. Admission free.

Corner of ul. Traugutta and ul. Sienkiewicza (K-6). © Bartek Matyjas

NESPOON - LACE WEB Chances are, if you’re already planning to see Róża’s Passage in Łódź, you’ll come across this great piece of work by the sweetly subversive Warsaw heroine NeSpoon, in the same courtyard; her stencil series, based on motifs of traditional Polish lace designs, are often seen in the unlikeliest of places, and now her work is being added to the urban landscape of many Polish cities. Here you’ll find a large web spreading out between a tree and large wall, with her characteristic designs forming part of the web’s body. Commissioned, yes, but fantastically, the subversive element in her work remains as, if you look directly across from the web, her tag of white spray painted lace graffiti can be found on the door of a small old building...old habits die hard.QJ‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 3. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

iyp.me/polandblog

The growth of street art in Poland is not difficult to put into historical context as the country has a great tradition of using urban wall space for all manner of creative ideas. The 1960s-70s saw vast wall spaces used for advertising communist-era state-run companies and surviving examples are now revered as important graphic design visions of the time. A relatively well preserved graphic painting of a giant butterfly advertising the state-run Pewex shops (where imported goods could be purchased with US dollars) can be found at ul. Sienkiewicza 21 (K-6).

Over the last few years the somewhat gloomy streets of Łódź have come to life with the addition of numerous brightly-coloured murals. The project to turn Łódź into an open-air art gallery was initiated by the Urban Forms Foundation back in 2009 with the aim to improve the current image of Łódź through supporting independent artistic projects in the city’s public spaces. With the help of the city council, Urban Forms has so far overseen the completion of over 30 large scale murals by some of Poland’s classiest street artists, like local heroes Etam Crew and Gdynia-born painter M-City. They have also invited some of the world’s leading street artists to leave their mark on the city, such as Brazilian twins Os Gemeos and the Chinese artist DALeast. If you are keen to see all murals the foundation has supported, a great way of doing this is to contact them via UrbanForms. org and asking about private bus tours of the city’s fabulous mural art. Likewise, use our maps in this guide and check out major works marked by a spray can symbol.

Wandering around the city you are bound to stumble across some rather fine and less ‘in your face’ little creative acts. We particularly like the painted and stencilled gas and electricity boxes which are dotted around town. They are frequently changed and too many to mention, but keep your eyes peeled, you’ll no doubt see plenty on your travels around Łódź.

January – April 2018

65

Hollyłódź

Museum of Cinematography | Archiwum UMŁ

It may seem unlikely but Łódź is Poland’s answer to Tinseltown. Stop sniggering at the back: having produced directors like Wajda, Polański and Kieślowski the Polish Hollywood has made an undeniable impact on world cinema.

HISTORY The story starts in 1948, with the foundation of the National Film School. With Warsaw lying in ruins, the capital’s major opera, theatre, and other miscellaneous artist groups found themselves decamping to the nearest large city: Łódź.

Suddenly home to Poland’s principal actors, performers and directors, the decision to base the country’s first film school here may seem odd today, but at the time was completely natural.

From its early beginnings the school had two distinct departments: film direction and cinematography. Initially the curriculum was limited to simple group productions, but soon films directed by individuals started to become the norm, all filmed using 35mm industry-standard cameras. Among the first batch of students were Andrzej Munk and Andrzej Wajda, the latter scooping an honourary Oscar in 2000 for his career achievements in film. In an era dominated by Big-Brother-is-Watching-style paranoia the school became a haven for the avant-garde, and the small screening rooms would regularly pack out not just with students, but the rank and file proles looking to enjoy the latest European cinema. It was in this liberal climate that the school also proved to be the first place in Poland to host jazz jam sessions, officially outlawed by the communist authorities.

66 Łódź In Your Pocket

The Wajda generation would go on to shape Polish film with a series of edgy films taking a heavy influence from the Italian neo-realists. The films produced in the late 1950s were in direct opposition to official guidelines, and films like Wajda’s Ashes and Diamonds used screen talents like Zbyszek Cybulski, a charismatic, hot-wire actor often labelled ‘The Polish James Dean.’ Roman Polański entered the school in 1954, and four years later propelled the school to international fame when he won an award at Expo 58 (The 1958 Brussels World’s Fair) for his film Two Men and a Cupboard. Alas the golden years soon proved to be numbered.

The late 1960s saw several anti-Zionist actions launched by the government, and as a result the school lost several of its rising stars in the Jewish exodus that followed - including rector Jerzy Toeplitz, who would later become the cofounder of Australia’s first film school. The film school soon regained its balance however, and has since produced luminaries such as Krzysztof Kieślowski, cameraman Sławomir Idziak and Krzysztof Zanussi.

Though the school itself isn’t open to tourists, visiting film buffs have two primary points of interest: firstly the Museum of Cinematography and secondly the Łódź Walk of Fame - a collection of star shaped plaques right outside the Grand Hotel on Piotrkowska honouring the greatest talents in Polish cinema.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App iyp.me/lodz

Hollyłódź WHAT TO SEE ŁÓDŹ FILM SCHOOL There isn’t much you can do other than stand outside the gates and gawk, but the ‘Leon Schiller National Higher School of Film, Television & Theatre’ (as it’s technically called) is where Hollyłódź was born, and since it’s right next door to the Museum of Cinematography it’s worth a casual walk past. Students still stream in and out of the campus, and you might catch a glimpse of the next Kieślowski.

QM‑9, ul. Targowa 61/63, tel. (+48) 42 634 58 00, www. filmschool.lodz.pl. ŁÓDŹ WALK OF FAME Borrowing the idea from the Hollywood Walk of Fame, Łódź has created its own strip of sidewalk featuring star-shaped plaques honouring the best of Polish cinema (can a giant Hollywoodesque “Łódź” sign be far off?). The stars are on either side of Piotrkowska right outside the Grand Hotel and include names like Roman Polański, Jerzy Kawalerowicz and Pola Negri.QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska.

MUSEUM OF CINEMATOGRAPHY Opened in 1986 inside Karol Scheibler’s extraordinary 19th-century palace, the Cinematography Museum offers visitors two unique attractions in one. The museum itself offers a well-presented history of Polish cinema and takes plenty of hats off to the multitude of Polish film greats who studied in the city before going on to greater things, as well as numerous changing exhibitions. This is the only museum of its kind in Poland, and though badly signposted (don’t be surprised to find yourself directed to blind alleys or opening secret doors to reveal private offices), it represents a rewarding experience for fans of Polish cinema. The collection features over 50,000 items including over 12,000 film posters, art exhibits and projectors and camera equipment of every kind. Standouts include the recently renovated Fotoplastikon - a giant drum-like contraption popular in the early 20th century for showing 3D films, and the excellent exhibit devoted to animated photography featuring plenty of vintage stop-motion characters and accompanying clips. The newest exhibit in the permanent collection is called “Palace Full of Fairy Tales” and is devoted to the heroes of Polish cult cartoon shorts and features (Moomins, Reksio).

The palace itself is a dream, featuring room upon room of delights, including the city’s first electric lift, some beautiful tiled stoves, a Turkish smoking room and many other treats besides. Built in 1856 to serve as residence for industrialist fat cat Karol Scheibler the palace contains interiors designed in Venice, Berlin and Dresden, including ceramic tiled stoves and dramatic oak panelling. Even if film is not your scene, this place deserves visiting just to see how the other half once lived. They offer guided tours in English and Polish for 80zł.QM‑8, Pl. Zwycięstwa 1, tel. (+48) 42 203 22 36, www.kinomuzeum.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/7zł.

Tue free for permanent exhibits. iyp.me/polandblog

FAMOUS ALUMNI KRZYSZTOF KIEŚLOWSKI Rejected twice by the Łódź Film School, Krzysztof Kieślowski finally landed a spot on his third attempt and spent his tenure from 1964-1968 focused on documentary filmmaking. Much of his work tended to focus on everyday life in Poland and the lives of average citizens, including Workers ‘71, which featured workers talking about the mass strikes of 1970. Yet fictional filmmaking, which he transitioned to in the mid-1970s, is what made his name. Personnel, his first feature film, earned him a top prize at the Mannheim Film Festival, and he followed up with movies like The Scar, Camera Buff, Blind Chance and The Decalogue. However, his biggest success came with the Three Colours trilogy, a series of French/Polish films released in 1993 and 1994 that Kieślowski directed and co-wrote. The trilogy netted Kieślowski heaps of recognition, including multiple Academy Award nominations and a Palme d’Or nomination at the Cannes Film Festival. Kieślowski died in 1996 and is buried in Warsaw’s famed Powązki Cemetery.

ROMAN POLAŃSKI Many people know director Roman Polański more for his personal life - including a marriage to Manson Family victim Sharon Tate and his evasion of charges in the United States for unlawful sex with a minor - than for his body of work. But Polański has consistently churned out successful movies following his stint at the Łódź Film School, and his first feature film, Knife in the Water, was nominated for an Academy Award. Polański followed up with box-office successes like Rosemary’s Baby and Chinatown, the latter of which received 11 Academy Award nominations. Polański’s most personal work came in 2002 with The Pianist, which told the story of Polish Jew Władysław Szpilman, whose escape from the Warsaw Ghetto closely paralleled Polański’s own experience surviving the Kraków Ghetto. The film, which premiered in Warsaw, was nominated for 11 Academy Awards and earned Polański a nod as Best Director and the Palme d’Or at the Cannes Film Festival.

ANDRZEJ WAJDA Director Andrzej Wajda, who passed away at the age of 90 in October 2016, had the lengthiest filmography of all Alumni. Four of his films - The Promised Land, The Maids of Wilko, Man of Iron and Katyń - were nominated for Academy Awards, and Wajda himself received an honorary lifetime achievement Oscar in 2000. Many of his films focus on war, which makes sense considering Wajda’s background: his father, a Polish cavalry officer, was murdered by the Soviets in 1940 during the Katyń massacre. Wajda tackled the painful topic in his 2007 film Katyń, which tells the story of the massacre through the eyes of the mothers, daughters and wives of the executed soldiers.

January – April 2018

67

Leisure

For all the Kingpin’s out there, Król Kul is right up your alley...

With a modern water park, new indoor arena and of course the entertainment and leisure centre incorporated within Manufaktura, Łódź can offer a range of ideas on how to spend your time. And don’t forget that this is one of Poland’s greenest cities, with over 30 parks within the city limits. Łagiewnicki Forest offers a whole range of outdoor possibilities throughout the year.

ADRENALINE SPORTS SPORTY EKSTREMALNE 4X4 Rent quads and off-road cars for use on a private 4x4 track.

The track includes hills, descents, mud and ditches.Qul. Ogrodników 2B, Nowa Gadka, tel. (+48) 508 01 68 94, www.sportyekstremalne4x4.pl. Open 10:00 till dusk.

Closed Sun. Quads: 240zł/1 hour, Cars: 270zł/1 hour.

BOWLING & BILLIARDS KRÓL KUL This is for all ye Lebowskis out there both big and small.

24 premium modern bowling lanes (max 8 bowlers per lane) with top of the line digital scoring and pin setting technology. They also have two billiards tables (15zł/h Mon-Thu and 20zł/h Fri-Sun) and a fully stocked bar that serves up great drinks and hearty snacks to help keep you keep rolling along. This is one of the most modern bowling alleys in all of Europe so don’t hesitate dudes and dudettes, go throw some stones!QI‑11, Al. Politechniki 1 (CH Sukcesja), tel. (+48) 600 69 07 30, www.krolkul.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. 40-90zł per hour per lane (depends on the day and time of day). Price of shoe rental included.

68 Łódź In Your Pocket

CINEMAS CHARLIE Not into mainstream cinema? Check out Kino Charlie, home of artsy movies shown in two halls fitted with Dolby Stereo. For those waiting for their screening, a cafe is on sight and a gallery to check out the works of young artists.

QK‑10, ul. Piotrkowska 203/205, tel. (+48) 42 636 00 92, www.charlie.pl. Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 12-25zł.

HELIOS ŁÓDŹ SUKCESJA The newest cinema in the Polish Helios fleet, they offer they highest class Cineplex in town with state of the art sight and sound. Not only do they screen the latest main stream hollywood flicks, but they also regularly show independent films from all over the world and host the occasional cultural event as well.QI‑11, Al. Politechniki 1, tel. (+48) 42 299 92 72, www.helios.pl. Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 18-27zł.

FITNESS & GYMS STACJA NOWA GDYNIA This is far and away the best fitness complex in the region, and not unlike a UK country club. A recent renovation takes it up another notch, making it even more modern with the eGYM integrated training system. Facilities as follows: four bowling lanes, four badminton courts, three squash courts, an air-conditioned gym, spa and aerobics classes. English-speaking instructors are available on request. Across a connecting wooden bridge find the swimming complex which is made up of three pools: iyp.me/lodz

Leisure children’s pool, recreational pool featuring water slide and a 25m six lane pool for the more serious swimmer.

Two cafeterias, a sauna and a steam room are also there to use. A full price list can be found on their English language web page. The entire complex is open 06:00 - 23:00; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00.Qul. Sosnowa 1, Zgierz, tel. (+48) 42 714 21 21, www.stacjanowagdynia.pl.

INDOOR ATTRACTIONS PLANETARIUM EC1 At EC1 East the first major attraction opened its doors in 2016 to the public after much anticipation. The Planetarium is one of the most modern and technically advanced spherical projection cinemas in all of Central Europe. The screen has a diameter of 14 metres and the camera will display images with a stunning resolution of 8K. Inside the theatre there will be space for 110 spectators. Part of the mission of the Planetarium is to accommodate school groups during the day, but in the afternoon it is open to the general public showing a mix of classic and cutting-edge astronomical shows. In the evenings they open the theatre up for artistic projects and experiments mixing breathtaking images with live music (check out Pink Floyd’s The Wall Laser Show).

QM‑6, ul. Targowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 233 50 55, www. planetariumec1.pl. Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Last show and last entrance at 18:30. Admission 18/13zł; Family ticket 48zł (2 adults +2 children), 42zł (2 adults +1 child); Group tickets 11zł per person (15 people or more).

OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS & PARKS ZOO Established in 1938 the local zoo features 2,500 animals (350 species), including cheetahs, lions, tigers and reptiles and scores of other captivating (-ed) creatures. The zoo features the spectacle of being able to watch animal feeding times! In the last few years the zoo has undergone modernisation and this will culminate in 2020 with the super-modern and gigantic orientarium, featuring animals and fauna from Asia.QC‑8, ul. Konstantynowska 8/10, tel. (+48) 42 639 11 88, www.zoo.lodz.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:30. Last entrance 1h before closing. Admission 15/8zł, family ticket 35zł. From March 22 admission 20/12zł, family ticket 48zł.

SPA & BEAUTY ESPA CLINIC This exceptional Day Spa and Clinic goes out of their way to improve your health, body and soul. Choose from a huge selection of skin replenishing treatments and corrective procedures. The soft candlelight and soft mood music will help set the tone for your full body rejuvenation. Their Professional team of experienced Cosmetologists, Doctors and specialists are there to help you choose a solution that iyp.me/polandblog

just right for the new you. Turn up the calm and turn back the clock.QJ‑9, Al. Kościuszki 106/116, tel. (+48) 42 256 87 97, www.espaclinic.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. SKYSPACE Swimming, sauna and massage treatments on the topfloor glass encased rooftop of the designer Hotel andel’s

by Vienna House Łódź. The pool and spa are open 06:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. The sauna is open Mon-Fri 16:00 - 22:00; Sat 09:30 - 22:00, Sun 09:30 - 21:00.QI‑3, ul.

Ogrodowa 17 (andel’s by Vienna House Łódź), tel. (+48) 42 279 15 80, www.viennahouse.com/pl/andels-lodz.

SLIM & BEAUTY This impressive day spa specialises in wellness treatments of all kinds. Exfoliating body scrubs, manicures/pedicures, therapeutic massages, aesthetic medicines as well as slimming and shaping treatments. Their professional staff of qualified specialists, cosmetologists, masseurs, dermatologists and stylists will help you figure out which treatment(s) are just right for you. Their comfortable Spa salon is located right in the Centre of Łódź on the ground floor of the Manhattan block (across from Galeria Łódzka).

QK‑9, ul. Sienkiewicza 101/109, tel. (+48) 783 19 07 83, www.slimandbeauty.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 17:00. Closed Sun. SPA & HEALTH CLUB IN DOUBLETREE BY HILTON ŁÓDŹ Traipsing the streets of Łódź or navigating the vast Manufaktura with dozens of shopping bags is an exhausting business, so a visit to the Double Tree 10th Floor Spa & Health Club is the ideal solution to restore mind, body and spirit. The Spa offers a full range of body treatments, massages and relaxing rituals. So, go ahead and pamper yourself in this stunningly equipped and ultramodern Spa & Health Club with a fitness center open 24hrs and a swimming pool open daily 06:00 - 22:00.QH‑9, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 208 80 07, www.doubletreelodz.pl. The SPA is open everyday 09:00 - 21:00 (but you must book body treatments or massages in advance).

SWIMMING AQUAPARK FALA A fantastic new addition to the Łódź leisure scene. Boasting 4 indoor pools with several slides and one with a wave machine, including a pool for the kids and three water playgrounds. There are also 7 saunas (ranging from Finnish with music therapy to crystal steam baths and open from 11:00), 1 large Jacuzzi, heated loungers, an indoor water slide a ‘wild river’ ride and an on site restaurant to keep you entertained.QD‑7, Al. Unii Lubelskiej 4, tel. (+48) 42 640 08 00, www.aquapark.lodz.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Prices are varied depending on dates and times. Find out more at their website at www. aquapark.lodz.pl/tickets.php.

January – April 2018

69

Shopping

If you’re looking for a lovely little something for a loved one, Lilou is the jeweller for you.

ALCOHOL KLUB WINO Half store, half wine bar, Klub Wino will easily appeal to wine connoisseurs who like to buy as well as taste. The store features bottles from around the world, including a small section of Polish wines.QK‑10, ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 786 19 73 00, www.klubwino.pl. Open 11:00 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.

PIWOTEKA You’ve probably been in bathroom stalls larger than this shop, but that’s not what will grab your attention. Piwoteka is floor-to-ceiling beer, the kinds you can’t and don’t find in the local pub (we imagine ‘Tyskie’ is a dirty word here).

We’ve actually seen huddles of young men staring longingly through the window. Take it further and go inside, where you can’t turn around but you can learn a lot about the world’s best beer from the knowledgeable owner (make sure to stop by their fantastic pub and tasting room next door as well).QJ‑6, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 730 35 67 06, www.piwoteka.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.

AMBER & JEWELLERY A&A DOM JUBILERSKI One look in A&A’s window and you’ll be blinded by the bling on display; anything picked up here will easily draw attention, with plenty of unique designs to choose from.

QK‑8, ul. Piotrkowska 146, tel. (+48) 42 636 74 18, www.domjubilerski.aia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. 70 Łódź In Your Pocket

CRYSTAL FASHION The owner has 18 years of experience and training working with the world renowned Austrian Kings of Bling, Swarovski.

As well as a fabulous range of jewellery and items produced in their onsite workshop, using Swarovski components and their own range of sparkling crystal, they also stock jewellery and accessories from designers such as Murano and cult Dutch design team Buddha to Buddha. Crystal Fashion also undertakes commission work, irrespective of how bizarre or complex your idea may be, and they have encrusted cars, snooker cues and even a vacuum cleaner. Lighting, including chandeliers, are another speciality of theirs. Not just a store for the super-rich, many of the workshop pieces are very reasonably priced and you can even come away with a Swarovski topped pencil for an amazing 12zł!QK‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 270, tel. (+48) 42 648 05 77, www. crystalfashion.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. LILOU Phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components and create a unique and personal piece. The range continues to grow, with the original idea of the personalised bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes - hearts, dogs, cats and the likes, and then have it hand engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you. A ‘must have’ item local celebs and fashionistas and the perfect personalised gift for that special someone. Make sure to stop by their new location in the Manufaktura shopping mall.

QJ‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 18, tel. (+48) 797 33 43 36, www. lilou.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. iyp.me/lodz

Shopping W. KRUK Polish jewellery, amber and watches from various international brand names all worth a browse. Also at ul. Piłsudskiego 15/23 (L-8/9, Galeria Łódzka).QI‑3, ul.

Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 661 98 05 73, www.wkruk.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 21:00.

YES Yes jewelry stores can be found throughout Poland, and will impress with their array of accessible (Pandora) and classic (Polish amber) options. Keep an eye out for unique Polish designers.QI‑3, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 617 37 27, www.yes.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

ANTIQUES & ART GALLERIES GALERIA ARS NOVA A popular gallery devoted to promoting young Polish artists.QJ‑2, ul. Zgierska 4, tel. (+48) 504 02 32 42, www. arsnovagallery.eu. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES BARDZO ROZSĄDNIE This is a truly unique little shop that peddles attractive applied art at Very Reasonable prices. The store is organised to present a broad cross-section of what is happening (mostly, but not exclusively) in contemporary Polish design and graphic design. You will find here important publications, albums (in English!), graphics and illustrations, stationery, posters, hand made toys, home accessories and even some Łódź-themed souvenirs. The perfect place to find something nice for that special someone.QK‑8, ul. Piotrkowska 142, tel. (+48) 514 52 30 44, www. bardzorozsadnie.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00.

BLOOM BOUTIQUE Stand out from the masses by visiting Bloom Boutique.

Specialising in womenswear, bags and accessories by some of Poland’s top fashion designers (est by eS, 10 DECOART, Ewa Zwolińska, Vivitt, Harmnni and Gepetto Polska) this is THE place to find short-run collections from the likes of Marity Bobko and Magdy Hasiakor and award winning local designers Michał Szulc and Maria Wiatrowska. The regularly changing stock features pieces for a variety of occasions; casual, avant garde, business and evening wear. Come in and chat with the owner, Beata Andrzejczak (who speaks English and Italian), about the designers represented in the boutique. Apart from the local buzz surrounding her unique Łódź store, she has built up a following of return customers from around Europe and the U.S.A.QK‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 107, tel. (+48) 506 08 47 93, www.bloom.com.pl.

Open 11:00 - 19:00, Fri 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sun. iyp.me/polandblog

MOGADISHU.STORE Second-hand shops are something Łódź has in spades, though most aren’t worth braving the musty odours and messy displays to enter. Not so at Mogadishu, a store so stylish it took us several minutes to realise we were perusing used goods. Shoes, purses and clothes are all clean and modern in this airy, uncluttered space, and the display of handmade jewellery is a must-see.QJ‑4, ul.

Rewolucji 1905 r. 6, tel. (+48) 698 04 53 52. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. TOLOOK BY KALISKA Tolook by Kaliska features unique and uber chic clothing and accessories from exclusively Polish designers. This stylish first floor boutique is the of brainchild energetic designer and stylist Justyna Kaliska. Every item on display screams originality, embraces bold colours and a big imagination. This is not fashion for the faint of heart. While most of their collection is made for women, there are a few racks for the fellas in the back plus some truly stellar socks.

Make a statement with a garment from Tolook.QK‑6, ul.

Piotrkowska 90 (1st floor), tel. (+48) 695 27 33 27, www. tolook.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

@LodzIYP January – April 2018

71

Shopping FOOD & SWEETS KRAKOWSKI KREDENS An old-fashioned dry goods store of expensive yet exquisite Polish delicacies, including jams, honeys, liquors and even a tub of smalec for you diehard fans.QH‑3, ul. Jana Karskiego 5, tel. (+48) 42 630 08 84, www.krakowskikredens.pl.

Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

PIJALNIA CZEKOLADY E.WEDEL A Polish legend that’s been operating since Karol Wedel first opened a chocolate factory in 1851. Check the handmade truffles and be sure to sit for a rich chocolate drink. Also at ul. Piotrkowska 69.QI‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 19A, tel. (+48) 42 631 00 36, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

PRODUKTY BENEDYKTYŃSKIE This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey, sells such an astounding variety of products cheese, jam, wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two eyebrows over how they find the time. All the products are completely natural, without pigment, and unilaterally excellent and make excellent gifts and can even be purchased through their (Polish only) website.QK‑9, ul. Piotrkowska 200 (Śródmieście), tel. (+48) 42 636 40 66, www.produktybenedyktynskie.com.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS FOLKLOR Your first stop for traditional (some might say tacky) souvenirs. Amongst the tat also find traditional Polish handicrafts like table cloths, ceramics, glass etc.QJ‑7, ul.

Piotrkowska 97, tel. (+48) 42 630 35 41. Open 10:00 18:00. Closed Sun.

SHOPPING MALLS GALERIA ŁÓDZKA Opened in 2002 Galeria Łódzka became the first modern shopping centre in the city, with some 160 retail units occupying a space of 45,000 sqm. On the fashion front consumers needs are met by stores like H&M, Sunstage and Reserved though those with credit cards tend to head in one direction alone: Peek & Cloppenburg, Lidia Kalita and 50 Style. Other needs come catered for in the shape of Home & You and cosmetic and beauty store Apteka Super-Pharm. Food-wise there’s the standard mall mix, with all the big Yank franchises represented, as well as Hana Sushi, Sphinx, Costa Coffee, Berlin Döner Kebap and North Fish. Ranked as Europe’s Best Shopping Centre in the 2004 ICSC Awards, GL realised their expansion plans fitting in even more stores than before. It’s within walking distance from Piotrkowska, though car owners can choose from 1,400 parking spaces (the first 3 hours are free!).QL‑8, Al. Piłsudskiego 15/23, tel. (+48) 42 639 15 00, www.galeria-lodzka.pl. Open 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

72 Łódź In Your Pocket

MANUFAKTURA SHOPPING GALLERY Filled with lunar curves and a light, bright atmosphere the shopping mall side to Manufaktura brings a new angle to the otherwise red brick architecture. The entire complex covers 27 hectares, and the mall has been split into four themes – industrial, cinema, design and textile – so as to make navigation easier. Those arriving with their kids in tow should consider dispatching them to the Jupi Park crèche found just off the Rynek.

Flagship stores include Leroy Merlin as well as a vast range of brand name clothing stores like Hugo Boss, Hilfiger, H&M, Timberland, a designer baby shop called LuxBaby and an Adidas superstore. In total over 300 retail units are occupied with other tenants including the Smyk toy store, Saturn, EMPiK and RTV EURO AGD. It’s not just mega-brand stores though that are drawing processions of spenders, but a top selection of specialist stores that you’ll be lucky to find elsewhere, let alone under one roof. If you’re not ready to put your trust in Lódz’s restaurateurs then by all means, see if you can do better yourself. Your first point of call should be Kuchnie Świata (first floor).

After, why not hit Old Havana for your post-dinner cigar.

Complete with a walk-in humidor chamber this is just the place for aficionados to test cigars imported from Cuba.

Another store to watch for is the Apple iSpot for all your Mac needs.

Outside the main range of shops don’t forego a visit to the craftsman’s alley between the Rynek and the mall; it’s here you’ll find all manner of stores including a cobblers, as well as privately run stores specialising in everything from metalwork to traditional rural-style souvenirs. Top restaurants like Polka and Bawełna also make Manufaktura an attractive destination just for dining. There’s even a casino for those feeling lucky in Łódź. Finally the complex plays host to a whole bunch of events both inside the shopping mall and outside on the square, which is surrounded by terraces with a huge choice of restaurants and bars.

For a full map of the shopping centre or further info don’t be afraid to approach the English-speaking staff manning the information point at the main entrance.

QI‑3, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 664 92 89, www. manufaktura.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

TAX FREE SHOPPING Non-EU residents are entitled to claim a VAT refund when the purchased goods are exported in an unused condition outside the EU in personal luggage. Shop wherever you see the Global Blue logo. The minimum total purchase value with VAT per Tax Free Form is 200zł (about €75). Keep the Tax Free Form, have it stamped when leaving the final point of departure from the EU and reclaim your money. For full details check www.globalblue.com. iyp.me/lodz

Lilou Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang.

Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand.

Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls.

Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry. ŁÓDŹ, 18 Piotrkowska Street MANUFAKTURA, 58 Drewnowska Street lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

Lilou Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

Directory 24-HOUR PHARMACIES CITOQI‑6, ul. Żeromskiego 39, tel. (+48) 42 633 48 29, www.apteka-cito.com.pl.

DR. MAXQJ‑4, ul. Zachodnia 81/83, tel. (+48) 42 630 75 75.

24-HOUR SHOPS U BRONKAQL‑1, ul. Wojska Polskiego 82, tel. (+48) 42 616 07 60.

ZETKAQM‑9, ul. Kilińskiego 153, tel. (+48) 42 674 60 73.

COMPUTER REPAIR AISKOMP Those not too savvy with PCs and in Łódź on business with a catastrophic laptop meltdown, don’t despair! Aiskomp offers the following services: PC/laptop/notebook repair, recovery of lost data from hard discs, pen drives and memory cards.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE

Installation and configuration of Windows systems, software configuration, installation of printers, scanners and webcams and finally, removal of viruses.QJ-5, ul. Piotrkowska 35, tel. (+48) 510 70 92 80, www.aiskomp.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

CONFERENCE ORGANISERS BOROWIECKI HOTELQF‑5, ul. Kasprzaka 7/9, tel. (+48) 42 288 01 00, www.hotelborowiecki.pl.

DOUBLETREE BY HILTON ŁÓDŹQH‑9, ul. Łąkowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 208 80 80, www.doubletreelodz.pl.

IBIS HOTELQK‑8, Al. Piłsudskiego 11, tel. (+48) 42 638 67 00, www.ibis.com.

SYNERGIA BUSINESS CENTERQJ‑9, ul. Wólczańska 128/134, tel. (+48) 695 58 11 81, www.synergia.lodz.pl.

DENTISTS INTERSTOMQJ‑7, Al. Kościuszki 32, tel. (+48) 42 632 57 11.

EMERGENCY ROOMS SZPITAL IM. M. KOPERNIKA W ŁODZI Qul. Pabianicka 62, tel. (+48) 42 689 51 60, www. kopernik.lodz.pl.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS INTERNATIONAL PRIMARY SCHOOL OF INNOVATIVE TRAINING IN ŁÓDŹQM‑3, ul. Pomorska 83/85, tel. (+48) 501 32 32 57, www.podstawowa.sei.edu.pl.

Currency exchange offices (‘Kantor’) are easy to find in Łódź, but as with any international destination, it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never change your money at city entry points, particularly at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve assembled a list of well-located exchange offices that won’t rip you off, and don’t take a commission.

KANTOR CENT Qul. Piotrkowska 307, tel. (+48) 42 640 34 65. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. KANTOR EXCHANGE GROUPQH‑3, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 634 84 98.

Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

KANTOR EXCHANGE GROUPQL‑8, Al. Piłsudskiego 15/23 (Galeria Łódzka), tel. (+48) 42 636 01 62. Open 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

74 Łódź In Your Pocket

INTERNET CAFES SET KOMPUTERY Chances are you’re looking for some Internet cafe (quite the rare thing these days!), so trust us and save yourself the hassle: searching online throws up results of numerous net cafes in Łódź that have long been defunct (we personally went to 8 addresses, only to be frustrated each time). SET Komputery offers 8 PCs to access the Internet at a cost of just 1zł for 15 mins, 2zł for 30 mins and if you can afford to splash out, 3zł for 1 hour! They also have a printing service, are able to scan documents, photos, record onto any medium, copy CDs/DVDs, lamination documents, and even copy material from old VHS tapes.Qul. Pojezierska 2/6, tel. (+48) 42 654 69 96, www.z1.pl. Open 10:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS SCHOOL OF POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS AT THE UNIVERSITY OF ŁÓDŹQO‑4, ul. Matejki 21/23, tel. (+48) 42 635 47 00, www.sjpdc.uni.lodz.pl. iyp.me/lodz

Directory LAUNDRY

POST OFFICES

CZYSTA SZTUKA Walk in and do your thing (unless you’re too lazy) in this self-service laundry (4 washing machines, 2 dryers). There is also a small tea house offering tea and coffee (with only 4 tables). For 4kg laundry up to 40C one pays 10 zł, 7kg in 60C costs 15zł. Additional services like extra rinsing or washing above 60C are 5zł. Detergent - 1zł, ironing - 1zł. Laundry is ready after 2 hours or can be picked up the next day.

QJ-11, ul. Stefanowskiego 24, tel. (+48) 609 64 83 38.

Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

POCZTA POLSKAQL‑6, ul. Juliusza Tuwima 38, tel. (+48) 42 632 58 16, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

PRALNIA PERFECT This laundry service is family run, and thankfully for you, they speak English here. A wide range of services are provided including chemical cleaning, washing and stain removal, impregnation and fabric protection, dyeing leather products and carpet cleaning. Each piece of clothing is processed individually with T-shirts costing 10zł, trousers or skirts 19zł, dress 26-50zł. Children’s clothing up to 134 cm = 60% off full service. Waiting time is 2 days.

QK‑6, ul. Sienkiewicza 29, tel. (+48) 42 634 23 02, www. pralniaperfect.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun.

PRIVATE CLINICS

LOCAL GOVERNMENT BUREAU OF PROMOTION AND TOURISM QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 104, tel. (+48) 42 638 58 80, www. uml.lodz.pl.

POCZTA POLSKAQF‑9, Al. Włókniarzy 227, tel. (+48) 42 634 41 34, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.

POCZTA POLSKAQJ‑6, Al. Kościuszki 5/7, tel. (+48) 42 632 41 05, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

ESKULAPQL‑6, ul. Traugutta 25, tel. (+48) 42 632 91 56, www.eskulap-lekarze.pl.

SALVE Also at Łódź, ul. Wujaka 5 – GALERIA WIDZEWSKA, Łódź, ul. Rzgowska 50A, Łódź, ul. Łagiewnicka 53, Łódź, ul.

Szparagowa 10 p.IQJ‑7, ul. Struga 3, tel. (+48) 42 633 56 61, www.salve.pl.

REAL ESTATE DSI.COM NIERUCHOMOŚCIQJ‑5, ul. Więckowskiego 20, tel. (+48) 508 06 26 60, www.dsi.com.pl.

ESTATEQJ‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 22, tel. (+48) 42 630 33 75, www.estate.lodz.pl.

CITY OF ŁÓDŹ OFFICE QK‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 104, tel. (+48) 42 638 40 00, www. uml.lodz.pl.

MEZCOMPU QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 71/3, tel. (+48) 42 634 02 02, www.mezcompu.com.pl.

LOST AND FOUND OFFICE If after losing your valuables you’ve panicked, searched around and reported it to police, it may be worth your while checking with the lost and found office, run by the city authorities. It is here where anything found on the street eventually ends up! Get this, for 2017 alone there were 690 items handed in, so you never know, you may just be in luck here!QK-8, ul. Piotrkowska 153, tel. (​+48) 42 638 57 34. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Tue 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

RELIGIOUS SERVICES

MARSHAL’S OFFICE QK‑8, Al. Piłsudskiego 8, tel. (+48) 42 663 33 80, www. lodzkie.pl.

REFORMED CHURCH QI‑10, ul. Radwańska 37, tel. (+48) 42 637 74 44, www. lodz.reformowani.net.pl. Services on Sundays and holy days at 10:30.

RELOCATION COMPANIES GOSSELIN MOBILITY Qul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 737 72 00, www.gosselinmobility.eu.

TRANSLATORS & INTERPRETORS

MAYOR’S OFFICE The President of the city is a woman called Hanna Zdanowska.QK‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 104, tel. (+48) 42 638 41 15, www.uml.lodz.pl.

TRADO QL‑5, ul. Polskiej Organizacji Wojskowej 28, tel. (+48) 42 635 35 50, www.trado.pl.

VOIVODSHIP OFFICE QK‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 104, tel. (+48) 42 664 10 00, www. lodzkie.eu.

TRANSLATERIA QG‑7, ul. Andrzeja Struga 78, tel. (+48) 662 44 99 84, www.translateria.pl.

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January – April 2018

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Hotels

Go for a swim in the clouds at DoubleTree.

For many years the hotel sector in Łódź didn’t reflect its position as the country’s third biggest city. While the skyscraping 5-star international brands have still yet to arrive here, the sector has seen a marked improvement in recent years with a series of new and renovated hotels opening their doors. And with the improved rooms you can expect improved service as well with English much more widely spoken and with extras such as wireless internet, spas, swimming pools and gyms now coming as standard in many places. With rates tending to fluctuate, use IYP’s booking service to see what the best offers are.

CREAM OF THE CROP ANDEL’S BY VIENNA HOUSE ŁÓDŹ QI‑3, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 279 10 00, www.viennahouse.com/pl/andels-lodz.

277 rooms (220 singles, 220 doubles, 52 apartments, 4 Maisonette Suite, 1 Maisonette Deluxe). P­H­6­U­ F­L­K­D­X­C­w hhhh DOUBLETREE BY HILTON ŁÓDŹ QH‑9, ul. Łąkowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 208 80 00, www. doubletreelodz.pl. 200 rooms (162 singles, 162 doubles, 10 suites, 1 Presidential Apartment, 27 Deluxe). P­6­ U­F­L­K­D­C­w hhhh

UPMARKET AMBASADOR CENTRUM QL‑8, Al. Piłsudskiego 29, tel. (+48) 42 677 15 20, www. hotelambasador.pl. 143 rooms (71 singles, 68 doubles, 4 apartments). H­U­F­L­K­D­X­C hhhh 76 Łódź In Your Pocket

BOROWIECKI QF‑5, ul. Kasprzaka 7/9, tel. (+48) 42 208 17 00, www. hotelborowiecki.pl. 56 rooms (18 singles, 36 doubles, 2 apartments). P­H­6­U­F­L­K hhh HOLIDAY INN LODZ QK‑10, ul. Piotrkowska 229/231, tel. (+48) 42 208 20 00, www.hilodz.com. 127 rooms (117 singles, 117 doubles, 10 suites). P­H­U­F­L­K­D hhhh NOBO HOTEL Qul. Liściasta 86 / Al. Włókniarzy, tel. (+48) 42 234 14 61, www.nobohotel.pl. 26 rooms (25 singles, 25 doubles, 1 apartment). P­H­6­U­L­K hhh NOVOTEL ŁÓDŹ CENTRUM QK‑8, Al. Piłsudskiego 11A, tel. (+48) 42 254 39 00, www.novotel.com. 161 rooms (160 singles, 160 doubles, 1 apartment). P­H­6­U­F­L­K hhhh

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning C Swimming pool T Child-friendly

H Conference facilities

F Fitness centre

U Facilities for the disabled

K Restaurant

L Guarded parking on site

D Sauna

w Wellness

6 Animal friendly

X Smoking rooms available

iyp.me/lodz

Hotels QUBUS HOTEL ŁÓDŹ CREAM OF THE CROP QI‑9, Al. Mickiewicza 7, tel. (+48) 42 275 51 00, www.

ANDEL’S BY VIENNA HOUSE qubushotel.com.

78 rooms (31 ŁÓDŹ singles, 47 doubles).

QB-1, ul.­U Ogrodowa (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 P­ H­6 ­L­K­X 17 hhh 279 10 00, www.viennahouse.com/pl/andels-lodz.

277 rooms (220 singles, STACJA NOWA GDYNIA220 doubles, 52 apartments, 4 Maisonette Suite, Deluxe).

H6 Qul. Sosnowa 1, 1 Maisonette Zgierz, tel. (+48) 42P714 21U� 61, FKDXCw hhhh 19 rooms (18 singles, www.hotelnowagdynia.pl.

18 doubles, 1 apartment). P­H­6­U­F­L­K­D­ C­w hhh

UPMARKET

AMBASADOR CENTRUM TOBACO HOTEL QE-6, Al. 29,tel. tel.(+48) (+48)42 42207 677 07 15 07, 20, www.

QG‑9, ul. Piłsudskiego Kopernika 64, hotelambasador.pl.

(71 singles, 68 doubles, hoteltobaco.pl.

115 143 rooms rooms (46 singles, 67 doubles, 4 apartments). hhhh 2 suites).

P­HH ­6U U ­ F ­FK ­LD ­KX ­DC hhh BOROWIECKI

MID-RANGE QF-3, ul. Kasprzaka 7/9, tel. (+48) 42 288 01 00, www.

hotelborowiecki.pl. rooms (18 singles, 36 doubles, B&B HOTEL ŁÓDŹ 56 CENTRUM 2 apartments).

PH16, 6U K hhh QJ‑6, Al. Kościuszki tel.F (+48) 42 207 00 40, www. hotelbb.pl/pl/lódź. 149 rooms (146 singles, 146 doubles, DOUBLETREE HILTON 3 Family).

P­HBY ­6­U ­L­X ŁÓDŹ QA-7, ul. Łąkowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 208 80 00, www. doubletreelodz.pl.

200 rooms (189 singles, 189 doubles, BOUTIQUE HOTEL 10 suites, 1 Presidential Apartment).

P512 6U QJ‑4, ul. Rewolucji 1905r.

8, tel. (+48) 20F 10K� 80, DCw hhhh69 rooms (22 singles, 40 doubles, www.cfihotels.pl.

4 triples, 3 apartments). H­6­L HOLIDAY INN LODZ QG-4, ul. Piotrkowska 229/231, tel. (+48) 42 208 20 00, CAMPANILE www.hilodz.com.

127 rooms (117 singles, QL‑8, Al. Piłsudskiego 27, tel. (+48) 42117 doubles, 664 26 00, 10 suites). PHUFLK D rooms hhhh(104 singles, www.campanile-lodz.pl.

104 104 doubles). P­H­6­U­L­KX ­ hhh NOBO HOTEL QF-2, ul. Liściasta 86 / Al. Włókniarzy, tel. (+48) 42 ESKULAP 234 14 61, www.nobohotel.pl.

25 rooms (24 singles, Qul. Paradna 46, tel. (+48) 42 272 33 00, www.hotel24 doubles, 1 apartment).

H6 ULK eskulap.com.pl.

50 roomsP(26 singles, 20 hhh doubles, 4 apartments). H­6­U­D­W hh NOVOTEL ŁÓDŹ CENTRUM QD-7, FOCUSAl. Piłsudskiego 11a, tel. (+48) 42 254 39 00, www.novotel.com.

161 rooms (160 singles, 144 doubles, QH‑8, ul. Łąkowa 23/25, tel. (+48) 42 637 12 00, www.

1 apartment). P110 H6 UF(49 K hhhh focushotels.pl. rooms singles, 54 doubles, 7 triples). P­H­6­U­L­K­X hhh QUBUS HOTEL ŁÓDŹ QB-7, Al.HOTEL Mickiewicza 7, tel. (+48) 42 275 51 00, www.

GRAND qubushotel.com.

78 rooms doubles).

QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 72, tel. (31 (+48)singles, 42 633 47 99 20, www.

PH6ULKX grand.hotel.com.pl.

90 hhh rooms (66 singles, 50 doubles, 17 suites, 7 apartments). P­H­6­U­L­K hhh STACJA NOWA GDYNIA QF-1, IBIS ul. Sosnowa 1, Zgierz, tel. (+48) 42 714 21 61, www.hotelnowagdynia.pl. rooms QK‑8, Al. Piłsudskiego 11, tel.19 (+48) 42 638(18 67 00,singles, www.

18 doubles, 1 apartment).

PH 6UFLP­ KH D� ibis.com.

207 rooms (207 singles, 207 doubles). ­ CU w­L hhh 6­ ­K hh INESS Qul. Wróblewskiego 19/23, tel. (+48) 42 684 45 54, www.inesshotel.pl. singles, 42 doubles, Get the55 Inrooms Your(42 Pocket 3 triples, 4 quads, 6 apartments). P­H­6­U­L­K City Essentials App hhh facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket iyp.me/polandblog

May - August January – April 2016 2018

77

Hotels KOLUMNA PARK HOTEL & RESTAURANT Qul. Hotelowa 1 (Dobroń Przygoń), tel. (+48) 43 677 27 27, www.kolumnapark.pl. 70 rooms (3 singles, 61 doubles, 2 triples, 4 apartments). P­6­U­D hhh LINAT ORCHIM DOM GOŚCINNY QK‑3, ul. Pomorska 18, tel. (+48) 42 632 46 61, www. linatorchim.pl. 21 rooms (21 singles, 21 doubles, 21 triples, 21 quads). 6­L MAZOWIECKIQH‑7, ul. 28 Pułku Strzelców Kaniowskich 53/57, tel. (+48) 42 637 43 33, www. hotelmazowiecki.com. 105 rooms (63 singles, 38 doubles, 3 suites, 1 apartment). H­6­U­L­K hh REYMONTQG‑4, ul. Legionów 81, tel. (+48) 42 633 80 23, www.hotelewam.pl. 72 rooms (28 singles, 29 doubles, 7 triples, 2 quads, 2 apartments). T­H­6­ U­F­K hhh SAVOY QK‑6, ul. Traugutta 6, tel. (+48) 42 632 93 60, www. savoy.centrumhotele.pl. 91 rooms (57 singles, 33 doubles, 1 apartment). H­6­U­L hh ŚWIATOWIT QJ‑8, Al. Kościuszki 68, tel. (+48) 42 636 30 44, www. swiatowit.centrumhotele.pl. 201 rooms (125 singles, 76 doubles). P­H­6­U­L­K hhh

ŁÓDŹ TRIVIA Poland’s full of ‘well I never’ facts, and there’s no better way to impress a hot date than by telling them about Europe’s largest desert (close to Katowice), or the street in Warsaw named after Winnie the Pooh. Think that’s weird, then how about the trail of gnomes in Wrocław or the gothic pyramid up in the town of Rapa. It comes as no surprise that Łódź also has its share of must-know facts.

Piotrkowska is the source of a couple of them, being the home to Europe’s largest mural, as well as being ranked as Europe’s longest pedestrian highway. Size counts in Łódź and the city is also home to Europe’s largest cemetery, Europe’s biggest urban park (Łagiewnicki) and the worlds largest Gillette factory. The oldest language school for foreigners can be found at Łódź university; they’ve been teaching the likes of you Polish since 1952, while a trip to the botanical garden will leave you in no doubt that it’s the largest in the country. Don’t go yet, there’s plenty more facts to digest. Łódź experienced the fastest population rise in the world its population doubling to over 100,000 during a six year span between 1872 and 1878. It’s also got the longest tram link in Europe, with 34 kilometres of track connecting Chocianowice to Ozorków.

Finally, Łódź haters should make haste and pick up John Birmingham’s Axis of Time trilogy. The Australian scribe loathes the city so much his book has Łódź as the first city to get nuked by the those pesky Russkies.

78 Łódź In Your Pocket

VILLA MASONERIA QN‑5, ul. Tramwajowa 11, tel. (+48) 723 24 87 39, www. villamasoneria.com.pl. 18 rooms (3 singles, 11 doubles, 3 triples, 1 suite). T­H­6­L­K ZAJAZD RUBIN Qul. Scaleniowa 11, tel. (+48) 42 689 25 90, www. hotelrubin.pl. 11 rooms (1 single, 6 doubles, 1 triple, 2 suites, 1 apartment). 6­L­K hhh

BUDGET CENTRUM SZKOLENIOWO – KONFERENCYJNE UNIWERSYTETU ŁÓDZKIEGO QO‑4, ul. Kopcińskiego 16/18, tel. (+48) 42 635 54 90, www.csk.uni.lodz.pl. 60 rooms (56 singles, 42 doubles, 4 apartments). P­H­6­L­K CENTRUM SZKOLENIOWO – KONFERENCYJNE UNIWERSYTETU ŁÓDZKIEGO Qul. Rogowska 26, tel. (+48) 42 659 82 11, www.csk. uni.lodz.pl. 30 rooms (6 singles, 24 doubles). H­6­U­ L­K MHOTEL Qul. Św. Teresy 111 (via ul. Szczecińska in Bałuty), tel. (+48) 42 652 99 90, www.mhotel.eu. 39 rooms (33 singles, 29 doubles, 3 triples, 3 apartments).

H­6­K hhh iyp.me/lodz

Hotels

Hotels

POLONIA PALAST QL‑5, ul. Narutowicza 38, tel. (+48) 42 632 87 73, www.polonia.centrumhotele.pl. 83 rooms (30 singles, 46 doubles, 7 triples). 6­U hh

APARTMENTS ARRIVIA BED & BREAKFAST QK‑5, ul. Narutowicza 24/34, tel. (+48) 602 78 33 44, www.arrivia.eu. 4 rooms (4 apartments). L

MID

BOU QC-4 www 4 trip

Your Home in Travel!

BEDROOMS QJ‑6, ul. Piotrkowska 64, tel. (+48) 730 64 64 64, www. bedrooms64.pl. 40 rooms (23 doubles, 14 triples, 3 Fiveperson room). P­T

CUD QF-3 5 roo

FOCU 12 00 54 do

CITY CENTER ROOMS QJ‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 91, tel. (+48) 42 208 08 08, www. citycenterrooms.pl. 24 rooms (24 apartments). T­L GOOD TIME - HISTORICAL APARTMENT COMPLEX QK‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 120, tel. (+48) 42 207 32 32, www. good-time.com.pl. 22 rooms (22 apartments). T­H­ 6­L

Central location - Piotrkowska Street

LINA QC-2 linato 23 tri

LOFT APARTS QO‑10, ul. Tymienieckiego 25C, tel. (+48) 730 25 25 25, www.loftaparts.pl. 40 rooms (40 apartments). L

Free parking available

HOSTELS

FLAMINGO HOSTEL QK‑7, ul. Sienkiewicza 67, tel. (+48) 42 661 18 88, www.lodz.flamingo-hostel.com. 13 rooms (8 singles, 8 doubles, 1 quad, 1 Six-person room, 2 Eight-person room, 1 Ten-person room). 6

Wifi and satellite TV - free of charge

MUSIC HOSTELQJ‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 60, tel. (+48) 533 53 32 63, www.music-hostel.pl. 6 rooms (2 doubles, 2 triples, 2 quads, 30 dorm beds). 6­L iyp.me/polandblog

MAZ QG-4 tel. ( com.

1 apa

SAVO QC-4 savoy 33 do

BOUTIQUE HOSTELQJ‑11, ul. Stefanowskiego 17, tel. (+48) 512 22 10 22, www.cfihotels.pl. 41 rooms (11 singles, 22 doubles, 8 triples). 6­L CYNAMON HOSTEL QK‑7, ul. Sienkiewicza 40, tel. (+48) 42 209 34 79, www. cynamonhostel.pl. 25 rooms (2 singles, 7 doubles, 2 triples, 3 quads, 2 Six-person room, 4 Eight-person room, 2 Ten-person room, 130 dorm beds). H­6­L

GRA QC-4 www 14 su

IBISQ www PH

HOME & TRAVEL QJ‑4, ul. Piotrkowska 21, tel. (+48) 42 633 80 80, www. hometravel.pl. 19 rooms (19 apartments). P­L

STARE KINO CINEMA RESIDENCE QK‑7, ul. Piotrkowska 120, tel. (+48) 42 207 27 27, www. cinemahotel.pl. 42 rooms (42 apartments). H­6­L­K

CAM QE-6 www 104 d

78 Łódź In Your Pocket

ul. Piotrkowska 21 90-406 Łódź tel.: +48/42/633-80-80 fax. +48/42/633-80-10 www.hometravel.pl January – April 2018

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Street Register 1 Maja, Al. E-6; F/I-5; F-6 10 Lutego K-10 28 Pułku Strzelców Kaniowskich H-5/8 6 Sierpnia F-7; G/J-6; G-7 Abramowskiego L-10; M-9/10 Anstadta, Al. M-3 Armii Krajowej A-12 Artyleryjska F-5; G-5 Augustyniaka E-4 Azaliowa A-2/3; B-2 Babickiego A-10/11 Bałucki Rynek J-1 Bałutka A-1/6; B-1; C-1 Banacha O-4; P-4 Bandurskiego, Al.

D-9/12; E/G-9; E-10 Bardowskiego E-3 Barska A-5 Batalionów Chłopskich A-12 Bazarowa I-1/2 Berlińskiego J-1; K-1 Biała G-1 Biegunowa A-4 Błońska G-12 Bobowa B-3; C-2/3 Bojowników Getta Warszawskiego

J-2; K-2 Borowa B-3; C-3/4 Bratysławska D-11/12; E-10/11 Bronowa A-3 Brzeska N-1 Brzeźna K-10; L-10 Brzozowa M-12 Bydgoska E-1 Ceglana J-1 Celna E-10 Chłodna L-1; M-1 Chodkiewicza D-10/11 Ciepła D-3 Ciesielska I-1 Cmentarna G-4; H-4 Czarnego J-1; K-1 Czarnkowska G-1/2 Czerwona J-12; K-12 Częstochowska P-11 Daniłowskiego C-4 Dębowa M-12 Dembińskiego F-10 Długosza D-3; E-3/4; F-4 Dobra O-7 Doły P-1/2 Dowborczyków M-6/8 Drewnowska C/E-3; E/J-2; G-3 Droga Pożarowa B-11; C-11 Drukarska H-1 Dwernickiego, Gen. N-2 Fabryczna M/P-9 Filomatów A-5/6 Floriańska F-3 Franciszkańska K-1/3 Gandhiego D/G-2 Gazowa F-4 Gdańska I-3/9; J-9 Głęboka P-8 Gnieźnieńska G-1 Gołębia O-9; P-9 Górna F-3/4 Grabowa M-11/12 Graficzna H-1/2 Grodzieńska D-9/10 Grohmanów, Al. M-6; N-6 Grochowa B-3; C-2/3 Grzybowa C-3 Gwiazdowa C-9 Harcmistrza Kamińskiego N-2/4

84 Łódź In Your Pocket

Harnama K-2 Hokejowa A-12 Holoubka O-6 Hotelowa K-6 Hubala-Dobrzańskiego A-12; B-12 Hufcowa A-10/11; B-10/11 Inowrocławska C-1; D-1 Inżyniera Lindleya M-5; N-5 Inżynierska H-10/11 Jakuba K-2 Jana Pawła II, Al. G-9/12; H-12 Janke, Gen. D-12 Jaracza J/L-5; L/P-4 Jarzynowa B-4/5; C-3/4 Jasień O-10; P-9/10 Jaszuńskiego O-4 Jęczmienna B-4; C-3/4 Joselewicza J-1; K-1 Józewskiego, Al. J-8; K-8 Kajakowa F-10/11 Karolewska E/G-9; E-10; G-8; H-8 Karskiego G-3/4 Kasprzaka E-1/5; F-5 Kilińskiego K-3/5; L-5/8; M-8/11; N-11/12 Klonowa E-1 Kolektywna L-1 Kołłątaja N-3 Kołodziejska G-1 Komunardów L-1 Konstantynowska A-8/E-6 Kopcińskiego O-3/8 Kopernika G/I-8; G-9; I-7; J-7 Kościelna J-2 Kościuszki, Al. J-5/11; K-10/11 Kowieńska D-9/10 Kozietulskiego C-9 Krakowska A-4/7; B-7/8 Krawiecka K-1 Króla C-11/12; D-11 Krótka I-1; J-1 Krotoszyńska E-1 Krzemieniecka B-8; C/E-9; C-8; E-10 Księży Młyn N-9; O-9/10 Kusocińskiego A/D-10; B-11; D-11 Kwiatów Polskich A-1 Łagiewnicka J-1/2 Łąkowa G-7; H-7/9; I-9 Łaska G-11/12 Łęczycka O-11/12 Legionów E/G-5; E-6; G/J-4 Lemieszowa A-1/2 Limanowskiego H/J-1 Lipowa H-4/7; I-7/8 Łódka A-6/9; B-5/8; M-1/2; N-1 Lokajskiego C-11 Lorentza D-4; E-4 Łowicka O-11; P-11 Lubeckiego O-2; P-2 Lubelska M-12 Łubinowa A-2 Lutomierska F/H-1; H/J-2 Magazynowa N-9/10 Mała I-5/6 Małachowskiego O-6; P-5/6 Malinowa F-1 Mania B-4 Maratońska D-12; E-11/12; F-10/11 Marusarzówny B-12 Marynarska L-1 Matejki O-2/3; P-3/5 Mianowskiego L-1 Mickiewicza, Al. G/J-9; J-8; K-8 Miecznikowskiego L-8 Miedziana N-8; O-8 Mielczarskiego H-4; I-3/4

Michałowicza A-5/6 Milionowa K-12; L/P-11; L-12; P-10 Minerska A-7/8 Mińska F-11/12 Młynarska K-1 Modra G-1 Mokra D-1; E-1 Moniuszki J-6; K-6 Muszyńskiego P-4 Nad Karolewką D-11/12 Naftowa E-5/6; F-5 Napierskiego A-11 Narciarska D-12; E-12 Narutowicza J/P-5; P-4 Naturowicza M-5 Nawrot K/O-7; K-8 Niska P-8 Norwida E-10; F-10 Nowa O-6/8 Nowe Sady E/G-12 Nowomiejska J-2/3 Objazdowa E-10; F-10 Oblęgorska M-1 Obornicka F-1 Obrońców Westerplatte L-1 Odolanowska F-1/3 Ogrodowa G-4; H/J-3; H-4 Okrzei F-2/4 Olimpijska C-12 Omłotowa B-2/3 Organizacji “Wolność i Niezawisłość”

J-1; K-1 Orla L-9; M-9 Orzechowa B-5 Osiedlowa H-1; I-1 Ossowskiego E-2/5 Owsiana B-2/3; C-2 Ozorkowska P-12 Pacanowskiej J-2; K-2 Palki, Al. O-1/3 Pankiewicza N-1; O-1/2 Parkowa G-11; H-10/11 Pasaż Wajdy M-6 Pasterska J-1 Pawia H-1 PCK, Al. J-11; K-11 Perla C-4; D-4 Perłowa B-3; C-3 Piaski B-11; C-10/11 Pietrusińskiego F-2/4 Pilarskiego O-4 Piłsudskiego, Al. K/P-8 Piotrkowska J-4/7; K-7/12 Piramowicza L-4/5 Piwna H-1/2 Pl. 4 Czerwca 1989 r.

K-5 Pl. Barlickiego I-6 Pl. Gen. Dąbrowskiego L-4; M-4/5 Pl. Gen. Hallera F-6; G-6 Pl. Komuny Paryskiej K-7 Pl. Kościelny J-2 Pl. Pokoju N-4 Pl. Wolności J-3/4 Pl. Zwycięstwa M-8; N-8 Pługowa A-2 Podrzeczna I-2; J-2 Pogonowskiego H-5/8 Politechniki, Al. I-10/12; J-12 Północna J/M-3; M-2; N-2 Polskiej Organizacji Wojskowej L-4/5 Pomorska J-4; K/P-3; K-4 Popiela G-1 Popowskiego O-8/9 Potza J-11 Powstańców Wielkopolskich D/F-1 Poznańskich, Al. L-5/6; M-5

Praska M-12 Praussa C-4 Próchnika H/J-4 Proletariacka H-11/12 Przędzalniana N-6; O-6/11; P-11/12 Przełajowa B-12 Przybyszewskiego M/P-12 Pszenna B-2/3; C-2 Ptasia H-12 Rabatkowa A-1 Radwańska H-11; I/K-10; I-11 Rajdowa C-10/12 Rajodwa C-11 Rawska O-11; P-11 Rembielińskiego H-11; I-11 Retkińska B-10/12; C-9/10 Rewolucji 1905 r.

J/N-4 Rokitny A-7 Rondo Jezuitów L-8 Rondo Solidarności O-3 Roosevelta K-8 Rostworowskiego L-7/8 Rybna I-1/2 Rzepakowa A-1/2 Rzeszowska A-6 Sandomierska D-10/11 Sempołowskiej O-4 Senatorska L/N-12; N-11; O-11 Scheiblerów, Al. M-5/6 Schillera, Al. K-7 Sienkiewicza K-5/8; L-8/11 Sierakowskiego G-1 Siewna A-3; B-3 Skierniewicka P-11 Skłodowskiej-Curie H/J-7; H-8 Skorupki J-11; K-11 Skury-Skoczyńskiego “Robotnika”

K-1; L-1 Słowiańska M-11/12 Śmigłego-Rydza, Al. O-8; P-8/12 Smugowa K-2; L-1/2 Smukłego C-4 Smutna O-1; P-1 Snopowa A-2 Snycerska I-1 Sojczyńskiego “Warszyca” L-1 Solec A-4; B-3/4; C-3 Solna K-3 Solskiego O-5; P-5/6 Sosnowa L-12 Sowia G-12; H-12 Sporna N-1/2; O-1 Sprawiedliwa F-1 Sprinterów B-11; C-11 Srebrzyńska A/C-4; C/E-5; E/G-4 Starosikawska L-1 Stefanowskiego J-9/11 Sterlinga L-3; M-3/4 Stocka L-12 Stolarska F-2 Struga F-8; G/K-7; G-8 Styrska P-3 Św. Jerzego G-4 Św. Kostki K-11 Szamotulska E-1 Szczucińska L-12 Szendzielarza “Łupaszki” K-1; L-1 Szletyńskiego, Al. K-7 Tamka P-2/3 Targowa M-6/10 Tarnowska A-6 Telefoniczna O-2; P-2 Tkacka O-5; P-5 Tomaszewicza A-11/12 Towarowa D-3; H-12 Tramwajowa N-5/6

Traugutta J/L-6 Trójskok D-12; E-12 Tuwima K-7; L/P-6; L-7 Tybury E/G-1 Tylna L-10/11; M-10 Tymienieckiego

K/M-11; M/P-10; P-9 Unii Lubelskiej F-9 Unii Lubelskiej, Al.

C-3/4; D-4/7; E-7/9; F-9 Uniwersytecka M-4/5; N-3/5; O-3 Urzędnicza H-1 Wacława P-11 Wajdy M-6 Wapienna D-4/5; E-3/4 Warneńska A-5 Waryńskiego F-4 Węglowa N-6 Widok L-1 Wiebrzbowa N-6 Więckowskiego E/G-6; G/J-5 Wieczność A-3/4 Wierzbowa N-2/6 Wigury K/M-9 Wilcza O-9/10 Wileńska C/E-10; C-9; E-11; F-11 Wilsona A-7/8 Wioślarska D-11/12; E-11/12 Włókiennicza K-4 Włókniarzy, Al.

D-1/5; E-5/7; F-7/9; G-9 Wodna N-6/8 Wojciecha Głowackiego M-1 Wojciecha Hasa L-6 Wojska Polskiego J-2; K/N-1; K-2 Wolborska J-2; K-2/3 Wólczańska I-5; J-5/12; K-11/12 Wolna F-1 Wołowa H-11; I-11 Wróbla H-1 Wróblewskiego H/K-12 Wróblewskiego, Gen. D/F-11; F/H-12 Wrocławska H-1/2 Wrześnieńska F/I-1 Wschodnia J-3; K-3/5 Współzawodnicza K-1 Wydawnicza O-6; P-6/8 Wygodna E-10/11; F-10 Wysoka N-6/8 Wyspiańskiego D-10/11; E-10 Wyszyńskiego, Al. A/D-11; A/D-12 Zacisze N-3/4 Zachodnia I-1/3; J-2/5 Zamenhofa I/K-8 Zana D-3 Zbiorcza P-8 Zdrowie B-7 Żelazna P-8/9 Żeligowskiego, Gen. G-5/7; H-7 Zelwerowicza O-5; P-5 Żeromskiego H-4/5; I-5/10 Zgierska J-1/2 ZHP, Al. J-8; K-8 Zielna L-1 Zielona E/I-6; F-5; I-5; J-5 Zimna D-3 Złota N-7 Żniwna B-2/3 Źródłowa L/N-2; L-1; N-3; O-3 Żubardzka C-1; D-1 Żubrowej F-10/11 Żwirki I-10; J-9/10; K-9 Zyndrama A-6/7 Żytnia H-2

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Index 6. Dzielnica 39 A&A Dom Jubilerski 70 Abracadabra Da Club 41 Affogato 28 Agrafka 27 All Star Klubokawiarnia 41 Ambasador Centrum 76 Anatewka 36, 48 Andel's by Vienna House Łódź 76 Angelo Ristorante 32 Antykwariat Komiks - Bóg Się Rodzi 57 Aquapark Fala 69 Arena Laser Games 51 Arrivia Bed & Breakfast 79 Arthur Rubinstein’s Piano 60 ato sushi 34 Bajka Disco Club 41 Bałucki Rynek 10 Bardzo Rozsądnie 71 Bawełna 48 B&B Hotel Łódź Centrum 77 Bedrooms 79 Bierhalle 48, 51 Bierhalle - Esplanada 28 Bistro 30 Bistro Korzenie 37 Bloom Boutique 71 Bobby Burger 25 Borowiecki 76 Boutique Hostel 79 Boutique Hotel 77 Breadnia 28 Cafe Bar Poczekalnia 39 Cafe Verte 22 Campanile 77 Catholic Cathedral 60 Central Museum of Textiles 62 Centrum Szkoleniowo – Konferencyjne Uniwersytetu Łódzkiego 78 Cesky Film Restaurant & Pub 27 Charlie 68 Chatka Ech 22 Child Martyrs Monument 9 Chlebak 22 Chłopska Izba 36 Church of the Assumption of Our Blessed Mary 10 Cinema City 51 City Center Rooms 79 Club Shisha Sahara 42 Costa Coffee 51 Crystal Fashion 70 Cud Miód 37 Cud Miód Fabryczna 28 Cynamon Hostel 79 Czekolada 42 Decalogue Monument 9 delight restaurant 48 DOKI gastrobar 56 Dom 57 DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź 76 Dwa przez cztery winebar 41 Dzika Kaczka 29 Empik 54 Eskulap 77 ESPA CLINIC 69 Experymentarium 52

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Farina Bianco 56 Flamingo Hostel 79 Focus 77 Folklor 72 Foto Cafe 102 39 Fountain of Love 64 Four Colors 29 Galeria Ars Nova 71 Galeria Łódzka 72 Galicja 50 Ganesh 46 Gastromachina Stacja 25 Gęsi Puch 37 Golden Bar 39 Good Morning Vietnam 55 Good Time - Historical Apartment Complex 79 Grakula 51 Grand Coffee 22 Grand Hotel 77 Grupa Fabricum 61 Hana Sushi 46 Helios Łódź Sukcesja 68 Herbst Palace 62 Holiday Inn Lodz 76 Home & Travel 79 Hot Spoon 46 House of Sushi 34 Ibis 77 IMAX 51 In Centro 34 Iness 77 Irish Pub 29, 39

Iron Horse 39 Istanbul Tajmahal 28 Italica 32 Jaracz's Chair 60 Jazda!Park 51 Jewish Cemetery 9 Jewish Community Centre & Synagogue 7 Julian Tuwim’s Bench 61 K6 Pub 39 Karczma u Chochoła 37 Kawiarnia słodkie słówka (Bean&Buddies) 23 Kebab House 36 Klub Wino 41, 70 Kokoo 42 Kolumna Park Hotel & Restaurant 78 Krakowski Kredens 72 Król Kul 68 Kuchnie Świata 54 KURONEKO - Japanese restaurant 34 La Vende 48 Lilou 70 Linat Orchim Dom Gościnny 78 Litera Cafe 23 Łódź Film School 67 Łódź Kaliska 40 Łódź Tourism Organisation 61 Łódź Walk of Fame 67 Loft Aparts 79 Lokal 37 Lordi's Club & Foo Foo Bar 42 Loża Club 42 Magazyn 82 40 Magnes 42

January – April 2018

85

Index

The Old meets the new at OFF Piotrkowska.

Malinowa 29 Manekin 34 Manufaktura Shopping Gallery 72 Max Ice & Coffee 51 Mazowiecki 78 Mebloteka Yellow 57 Meimei 46 Meta na Piotrkowskiej 30 mHotel 78 Miś Uszatek Monument 61 MITMI restobar 56 Mogadishu.store 71 Montag 23 MOTYWY 30 Museum of Archaeology and Ethnography 62 Museum of Art in Łódź - ms¹ 63 Museum of Art in Łódź- ms² 52 Museum of Cinematography 67 Museum of the City of Łódź 52 Museum of the Factory 52 Museum of the Tradition of Independence 63 Music Hostel 79 Nekko Sushi 34 NeSpoon - Lace Web 65 New York - Music Club 42 NoBo Hotel 76 Novotel Łódź Centrum 76 Old Cemetery 64 Old Havana Cigars & Accessories 54 Old Jewish Cemetery 10 Old Town Square 64 Orthodox Church 60 Oscar's Bar 51 Otwarte Drzwi 32 Owoce i Warzywa Klubokawiarnia 40 Palm House 64 Pan Tu Nie Stał 57 Papuvege 34 Pijalnia Czekolady E.Wedel 51, 72 Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 30 Piknik 33 Piotrkowska Klub 97 40 Piwnica Łódzka 37 Piwnica Smaków 37

86 Łódź In Your Pocket

Piwoteka 70 Piwoteka Narodowa 40 PiwPaw 40 Planetarium EC1 69 Polka 50 Polonia Palast 79 Pomodoro 33 Porcja 57 Presto 33 Produkty Benedyktyńskie 72 Przędza Coffee/Bar 23 Przerwa 30 PTTK - Polish Tourist and Sightseeing Society 61 Quale Restaurant 30 Qubus Hotel Łódź 77 Radegast Station 8 Radogoszcz Prison Museum 63 Rajskie Jadło 50 Reicher Synagogue 10 Restauracja Kolory Wina 31 Restauracja u Kretschmera 31 Revelo 27 Reymont 78 Róża's Passage 65 Savoy 78 Schupo and Gestapo HQ 10 Segway Tours 61 Se-ma-for Museum of Animation 63 Sendai Sushi 35 Senoritas Mexican American Restaurant & Lounge 35 SerVantka 27 Shotme by Gossip 41 skySPAce 69 Slim & Beauty 69 Society of Friends of Old Łódź 61 SODA Underground Stage 42 SPA & Health Club in DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź 69 Spaleni Słońcem 57 Sphinx 36 Spółdzielnia 56 Sporty Ekstremalne 4x4 68 Stacja Nowa Gdynia 68, 77 Stare Kino Cinema Residence 79

St. Joseph's Church 60 Surindustrialle 23 Sushi Kushi 35 Światowit 78 Szpulka 28, 48 Szwalnia Smaków - Słodka Nić 31 Szyby Lustra 56 Tango Argentino Steakhouse 26 Tawerna Pepe Verde 48 Teremok 37 The Brick Coffee Factory 23 The Centre for Science and Technology EC1 64 The Children of Bałuty - Memorial Murals 9 The Eclipse Inn 41 The Ghetto Bridges 9 The Lamp Man 61 The Red House 9 Three Factory Owners 61 Timberland 54 Tkalnia Smaku 32 Tobaco Hotel 77 Tolook by Kaliska 71 Tourist Information Point 61 Vapiano 33 Villa Masoneria 78 Wall Street BBQ 25 Whiskey in the Jar Manufaktura 46 W. Kruk 71 Władysław Reymont’s Trunk 62 Yes 71 Zachodnia Street 10 Zajazd Rubin 78 ZET Cafe 23 Zielona 50 Z Innej Beczki 40 Złota Kaczka 26 Złoty Imbir 26 Zoo 69

FEATURES INDEX Breakfast 28 Craft Beer Bars 40 Currency exchange 74 Decoding the Menu 28 Facts & Figures 16 Famous Alumni 67 Language 17 Łódź Trivia 78 Market Values 16 Pola Negri 50 Polish Food 36 Polish Snacks & Shots 30 Quick Eats 34 Radogoszcz Prison Museum 63 Say My Name 15 Street Art 65 Tipping Tribulations 25 iyp.me/lodz