Lodz In Your Pocket - May - August 2019

Events

Sightseeing

Restaurants

Nightlife

Shopping

Łódź No. 40, May – August 2019 Outdoors in Łódź Good Taste Festival

City Guide p.6 p.11

Festival of Four Cultures p.12

Hotels

Maps

Contents

Łódź

Feature Outdoors in Łódź

p.6

Events 10 Arrival & Transport

14

Polish Facts & Language

17

Sightseeing Essential Łódź 19 Piotrkowska North 20 OFF Piotrkowska 22 Piotrkowska South 24 The Promised Land - Łódź’s Industrial Heritage 26 EC1 28 Hollyłódź 30 Jewish Łódź 32 Street Art 36 Museums 38

Manufaktura

40

Cafés

46

Restaurants Traditional Polish Dishes

Nightlife

50 48

Polish Alcohol

64 62

Activities & Leisure

68

Shopping

70

Directory

75

Hotels

76

Maps & Index City Map City Centre Map Street Index Venue Index Features Index

80-81 82-83 84 85 86

lodz.inyourpocket.com

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Foreword Welcome to the Spring and early Summer (and 40th!) edition of Łódź (phonetically pronounced ‘Woodge’) In Your Pocket. The streets are abuzz as the city reawakens after its brief winter slumber. It’s right about now when the city’s cultural calendar starts to kick into high gear and festivals of all shapes and sizes start popping up like daffodils. The warm weather gives you freedom to explore by foot or by bike, and what better to do than explore?

We love being outdoors in Łódź (check out our feature on page 6), so we’ve decided to show you the best things to take full advantage of the sun’s rays! There are plenty of other things to do here, so also check out the city’s many indoor attractions, gastronomical offerings and social scene, all found in the pages of this guide. One of the best ways to get a feel for what’s going on, apart from reading Łódź IYP, is to attend some of the many exhibitions and festivals taking place over the next few months, such as the Fotefestival (p.12) in June. Check out our What’s On section (p.10) for full details of cultural events and festivals. Let us know what you think about Łódż, its events, or anything of interest you think we should know about, by contacting us via our Facebook page (/lodzinyourpocket) or just send us a good old-fashioned email: poland@inyourpocket.com.

Andrew Elliott, who has close ties to Poland, has been living here since 2016 when he finally decided to make the big leap from Scotland to get a more in-depth grasp of this fascinating country. Personal interests include astronomy, current affairs, food & drink, photography & videography! He even has a slight penchant for history.

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Łódź In Your Pocket

COVER STORY Łódź’s main thoroughfare ul.

Piotrkowska (pp.20-25) always looks impressive during the warmer months as the life and soul of the city spills outdoors. Sit back and watch as the world goes by, stroll or cycle up and down the street - you won’t be disappointed. Photo: whitelook, Adobe Stock.

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 10,000 copies published 3 times per year Writer & Editor: Andrew Elliott Sales Consultant: Bartosz Matyjas (+48) 784 966 824 Events: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 879 494, Agata Janik, Katarzyna Mrozewska-Fenz Research: Mateusz Gofroń, Patrycja Ples, Dominika Sosnowska Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o. o Sp. k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

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A beach within the city...inside a forest! All this at the Arturówek Recreational Complex (p.8)

Outdoors in Łódź Łódź is still a hidden gem in Poland, often overlooked by tourists, or sometimes people are simply unaware of its existence. When they do end up here, they find out just how culturally rich the place is. Better still, during the warmer months, the outdoors begin to entice locals, but still some places are overlooked by tourists - a real shame! Read on to find out how to best take advantage of the good weather in Łódź...

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Łódź In Your Pocket

Outdoors in Łódź Our favourite time of the year has finally arrived and we’re so happy, we sometimes feel like an overly enthusiastic street preacher barking advice at passersby: “Enjoy the weather!”, “See the city by bike!” and “Tie up your shoelaces properly or you may trip up during your long walk!”. But this is our job – to give you the best advice possible on how to enjoy everything Łódź has to offer, tied shoelaces or nay!

Our sage, calm, and reasoned advice to you is to use this guide and our recommendations to the full. Whether you’re in the city for a short or long term visit, whether you like to walk, prefer cycling, or just ride the public transport, there’s truly something for everyone to see and do in the city for all tastes, budgets and energy levels.

WHAT TO SEE? So you’re here now and only have a short time but wish to see as much as possible, so where do you start? Of course, it’s got to be the main thoroughfare, ul. Piotrkowska (pp.20-25). Europe’s longest pedestrian street comes in at an impressive 4.2km, which if you’re a keen walker may seem like a delightful challenge, but for those against the notion, it may feel like you’re being forced to attend a gruelling gym session after an overly optimistic new year’s resolution. But there’s no need to worry – using Łódź’s fantastic city bike service (p.68), a cycle from one end of the street to the other can be completed in 10 mins at a decent pace (15-20 if you’re more leisurely). Rickshaw riders can do the legwork for you too if you’re really not up to putting in the muscle effort. Either way, it’s great to take in the summer atmosphere of Piotrkowska as the life and soul of all the venues spills out onto the street with beer gardens, gazebos, and even just simple chairs and tables, to sit back and do some people watching.

Outdoor eating is big in Łódź, like here in Otwarte Drzwi (p.57)

the colourful ‘unicorn stables’ (p.14) acts as a marker for Al. Piłsudskiego, which is the natural splitting point in Piotrkowska, but from here continue to the southern end of Piotrkowska. Along the way, yet more gastronomical and nightlife venues spill out into former industrial site of Piotrkowska 217 (p.24). From this point, you have a choice of either going further south to the outdoor Skansens at the Central Museum of Textiles (p.25) or even continuing east along ul. Tymieleckiego (K/L/M-16 & N/O-15) to the area around the former Księży Młyn (p.27) Factory complex, which includes the fantastic Art Factory (p.24) complex. Nearby, Park Zródlisko in front of the Museum of Cinematography (p.31), with its Palm House (p.39), is a pleasant resting stop right in the city centre.

If you’re taking in the sights of the street during your travels, there’s plenty to explore, all of which features in this very guide. In the northern half of Piotrkowska, you will see some glitzy street art in the form of Róża’s Passage (p.21) and the fantastic OFF Piotrkowska (p.22) with its cafes, bars and restaurants. Splitting the street in two, DOKI Gastrobar (p.22) in OFF Piotrkowska

Now, these are just some recommendations in the direct vicinity of the city centre, but going back to the north of Piotrkowska, there’s the ever popular Manufaktura (p.40) complex, which is not only a major shopping and entertainment centre, but the square becomes a lively place in summer with events frequently taking place.

The largest urban forest park in Europe, right here in Łódź.

So far, we’ve given you a quick breakdown of things to see and do if you have a tight schedule, or are perhaps against going too far. Stick to these recommendations and you’ll still see a lot of the city. But there’s so much more to see, especially if you have an abundance of time and energy to go for long walks or bike rides – you will be rewarded with a range of cultural and recreational experiences. lodz.inyourpocket.com

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Outdoors in Łódź distance! Luckily, should you not wish to sweat it out, you’ll be delighted to know there is a direct bus, 85B, from in front of Łódź Fabryczna Train station (p.14) at stop ‘Dw. Łódź Fabryczna’ to ‘Arturówek’, a journey time of roughly 30 mins, with buses running every 30-40mins.

Manufaktura’s (p.40) main square is always bustling. © Manufaktura

To the west of the city centre, the area known colloquially as ‘Zdrowie’ (meaning health) is a large park (officially named ‘Park im. Marszałka Józefa Piłsudskiego, after the interwar leader of Poland), which can be reached in 10 mins by bike, or directly by tram no. 7B in 25 mins from the unicorn stables. Here you will find an area of the city which locals like to come to in the warmer months to kick back, relax, and take leisurely strolls or bike rides with their familes. The park is nice enough in itself, but there are other attractions here which are a draw for many – there’s a Zoo (p.69), Botanic Gardens (A/B-14), Aquapark (p.69), skate park and rope park for the kids.

For those who have more time, or those who wish to focus entirely on the historical aspect of the city’s Jewish past, the northern district of Bałuty is the place to go. Definitely check out our Jewish Łódź (p.34) section, which comes complete with a walking tour and map.

Now, it’s time for a bit of a drumroll for what is likely one of our favourite Łódż summertime locations...a forest – Las Łagiewnicki (p.69). Yup! As odd as that sounds, it’s what’s there that matters – this is Europe’s largest urban forest park found within city limits. A word of warning though, this is so far north it doesn’t feature on our maps as (depending where you are in the centre) it’s 6-9km away, with the journey to get there taking 20-30mins by bike and 1h 45m on foot - just follow ul. Łagiewnicka (J-6) until you reach the forest! Whether you wish to go straight there or after the Jewish Łódź walking tour, be prepared to go the

Now armed with this knowledge, it’s time to put it to good use and get yourself to Las Łagiewnicki - but why? What’s so special about this place? It’s an outdoor person’s dream for a start, but also a perfect day out in the sun for families and those seeking to chill out. The forest itself is quite large, covering an area of 1,205h, and is criss-crossed with trails that are ideal for cyclists and walkers. The southern tip of the forest contains the highlight in the Arturówek Recreational Complex, which is another place locals like to go in their free time if the sun’s out – and with good reason, it’s packed with attractions for those wishing to get away from the bustle of the city centre. The area contains 3 large ponds, each of which has a different use – one for swimming, with a guarded public beach, a 2nd for those wishing to rent out kayaks and waterbikes, and the 3rd is simply a reservoir. Adults have a tennis court and great outdoor gym to ‘play’ in, as for the kids, there are play parks for them to jump around in, including Łódź’s only public outdoor waterpark, and a rope park. There are plenty of places to eat here too, from snack shacks to stalls and restaurants. Hotels and campgrounds are also in the vicinity should you wish to stay longer!

DALEAST (China) mural on ul. Łąkowa 10 (H-13)

© Archiwum UMŁ

We’ve covered north, east, south and west of the city, recommending specific sites, however, one cool benefit to Łódź is that almost anywhere you go, you will likely come across some of the city’s fantastic street art (p.36), which you can find during your travels thanks to their locations being marked on all our maps with a helpful spray can symbol. You’re welcome.

Enjoy the warm atmosphere of OFF Piotrkowska (p.22)

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Łódź In Your Pocket

And there you have it folks. Street art, bikes, beaches, parks, long streets, longer walks and swimming, we’ve thrown in just about everything for you apart from the kitchen sink.

Whatever you choose to do during your stay in Łódź, we hope you get on out there and see as much as you can – we’re sure you’ll be impressed by this gem in central Poland.

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Events

Łódź of Four Cultures Festival (p. 12) | Photo: HAWA/ Festiwal Łódź Czterech Kultur

EVENTS BY DATE 01.04 - 30.09 » SONGWRITER ŁÓDŹ FESTIVAL

The six months-long, weekly musical event is less of a festival and more of a permanent spring-and-summer feature celebrating Polish and international songwriters with outdoor concerts (on the corner of Piotrkowska and ul. 6-go Sierpnia). These amazing outdoor concerts create the atmosphere that cannot be replicated anywhere else.

Past guests have included Bisquit, Klara, Daniel Spaleniak, Leski, Fismoll, Buslav, Peter J. Birch, Henry David’s Gun, Tom James, Axel Flóvent, Piotr Rogucki, Tymon Tymański, Iza Lach, John Porter, Mary Komasa, Bownik and Mikromusic.

QAdmission free. Every Saturday.

04.05, 11.05, 18.05, 25.05 13:30 » ON WINGS OF DREAMS

Dreaming about flying? Imagining having wings? Discover the great mystery of flying through Leonardo da Vinci’s discoveries, the work of Montgolfier and Wright brothers and other aviation pioneers. The film is a fascinating journey through the history of aviation and the science behind it.

You will fly in a balloon, travel in a zeppelin and a plane. You will take a journey into space in a rocket. The film is the first Polish production using fulldome technology. The music is composed by Michał Lorenc and the narration provided

by Danuta Stenka (both in Polish and English). The film received many international awards.QM‑11, Planetarium EC1, ul. Targowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 233 50 55, Admission 13/18zł, www.planetariumec1.pl.

10 Łódź In Your Pocket

11.05 - 23.06 » LODZ BALLET FESTIVAL

The Łódź Ballet Festival is the only dance festival in Poland of such a long-standing tradition and important artistic rank. Since its first edition in 1968, the stage of the Łódź Grand Theatre has hosted all the most prominent dance companies in the world, and the festival itself – thanks to an appropriate choice of repertoire – has become an exceptional forum of a confrontation between all that in the art of ballet and the dance theatre is most worthwhile, current and worth of note. The festival is the creation of Stanisław Piotrowski - director of the Grand Theatre in Łódź , and Witold Borkowski - the ballet artistic director.

QM‑10, The Grand Theatre, Pl. Dąbrowskiego, tel. (+48) 42 633 31 86, Tickets 40-80 zł, www.operalodz.com.

17.05 - 26.05 » ŁÓDŹ DESIGN FESTIVAL

During the 13th edition of Łódź Design Festival, designers will attempt to find the #GOOD LIFE recipe. 22 finalists were selected to exhibit their products designed to respond to real people’s needs. The most important challenge put before designers was to create items that would make people’s lives better. Awareness of the gigantic impact that design has on the natural environment and social relations should inspire solutions that would provide humanity with abundance and convenience, simultaneously preserving the ecological stability of the natural world we all share.

This type of approach should result in self preservation of humankind, and by coincidence (as a bonus) in a creation of an original individual expression through design.

Qwww.lodzdesign.com.

Events 24.05 19:00 » HORSES IN THE SKY

Israeli choreographer Rami Be’er’s inspiration for the performance of Horses in the Sky are the lyrics from the song by the Canadian group Thee Silver Mt. Zion Memorial Orchestra which are also part of the dance’s soundtrack. The lyrics speak of a promise to a “broken lamb” to fetch her “horses in the sky,” and include lines such as “violence brings more violence/ And liars bring more lies.” Be’er has deployed poetry with socio-political connotations before, and although the lyrics are not as important as the mood, state of mind or ambiance they lend a suggestive underlayer to the rather abstract actions taking place on stage, the dancers performing in a desolate land, without obligations to any specific point in time. Be’er choreographed, designed sets and lights for the performance.QM‑10, The Grand Theatre, Pl. Dąbrowskiego, tel. (+48) 42 633 31 86, Tickets 150zł, www.operalodz.com.

31.05 20:00 » ANDRÉ RIEU - AND HIS JOHANN STRAUSS ORCHESTRA - WORLD TOUR 2019

Andrè Rieu, a Dutch violinist and conductor famous for creating the Johann Strauss Orchestra that popularized classical and waltz music. He and his orchestra have turned classical music into a worldwide concert touring act as successful as some of the biggest pop and rock concert tours. Andrè Rieu’s repertoire includes a wide range of classical, popular and folk music as well as thematic music from well known film soundtracks and musicals. Thanks to the accessibility of Rieu’s live and recorded performances many people became regular listeners to standards of the classical canon. QE‑14, Atlas Arena, Al. Bandurskiego 7, Tickets 280-490zł, www.eventim.pl.

07.06 - 16.06 » GOOD TASTE FESTIVAL

Łódź has a strong filmmaking tradition, and now chefs and restaurant owners are trying to carve out a niche for themselves, hoping the city will become as famous for its gastronomical marvels as for its movies. Festiwal Dobrego Smaku (Good Taste Festival) will last 10 days beginning with the festive inauguration in Stare Kino (Old Movie Theatre) and ending with the award ceremony for the best dish, dessert and cocktail. The food festival will be accompanied by concerts, art shows and dancing. Among the attractions will be: Patrycja Plesiak’s Spanish inspired fashion show, music, dance and film. Part of the festival will be a charitable auction, the proceeds from which will go to fund children’s dinners. The festival will begin on June 7th and continue through June 16th.QK‑12, Piotrkowska Street, Piotrkowska, Admission 15zł, www. festiwaldobregosmaku.eu.

What’s going on? facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket lodz.inyourpocket.com 11

Events 07.06, 08.06 19:00 » BALLET FLAMENCO SARA BARAS - SOMBRAS

Beloved for her brilliant footwork and captivating stage presence, flamenco superstar Sara Baras performs Shadows which combines her devotion to the dances of her native Spain with her unwavering commitment to innovation. Baras re-examines and reinvigorates her trademark flamenco style La Farruca—a quick-footed, dramatic dance traditionally performed only by men. In this euphoric explosion of flamenco’s classic gender roles, her company banishes those shadows once and for all. The vibrant scenic design by visual artist Andrés Mérida seamlessly integrates with the dance. The music, by company Music Director Keko Baldomero, infuses flamenco rhythms with an array of other musical cadences from around the world. A tour de force of female power and transcendence, Shadows is an evening with the “Queen of the Spanish Moonwalk.”QM‑10, The Grand Theatre, Pl. Dąbrowskiego, tel. (+48) 42 633 31 86, Tickets 50zł, www.operalodz.com.

13.06 - 30.06 » FOTOFESTIVAL

This year’s Fotofestival brings together exhibitions, film screenings, and an accompanying educational programme focused on a theme which explores the relationship between humanity and nature. When the festival was first established in 2001, it emerged on the cultural scene as one of the pioneering photography events in Poland. Over the years, the festival has further developed in response to the ever-evolving cultural scene in Poland, which continues to raise the bar for participants and event organisers alike across the country. It remains an important space for discussion and a meeting point among observers of the world around us, and has certainly kept its position as an important photography event in the country.QK‑12, Piotrkowska Street, Piotrkowska, Ticket 15/10zł ticket booklet 30/60zł, www.fotofestiwal.com.

01.07 - 31.08 » SUMMER JAZZ ACADEMY

Jazz is associated with freedom and energy. It’s a way to rebel against oppression and bleakness and motivates to take action. The 11th edition of the Summer Jazz Academy proves that jazz is the base of Polish national culture. Presenting music of the highest artistic level, and promoting both Polish jazz legends and international jazz masters, the Summer Jazz Academy is one of the biggest jazz festivals in Poland. The Summer Jazz Academy aims at reminding the musical output of the greatest Polish composers via modern artists and contemporary arrangements. And let’s not forget about debuting artists who have a chance to present their instrumental skills in front of a big audience.QH‑14, Wytwórnia Club, ul. Łąkowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 639 55 55, Single ticket 25/35 zł, Festival Pass 140/150 zł available at kup bilet / ticketpro. pl / ebilet.pl / biletomat.pl / eventim.pl / biletyna.pl / WYTWÓRNIA TICKET OFFICE (42 639 55 55 / bilety@ wytwornia.pl), www.letniaakademiajazzu.pl. Every Thursday.

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06.09 - 14.09 » FESTIVAL OF FOUR CULTURES

There are four cultures responsible for the late 19th-century rise of the mighty industrial Łódź: Poles, Jews, Germans, and Russians had to coexist and cooperate in order for the city to flourish. Traces of the multicultural heritage can still be found all around, both in the city and its inhabitants, and have increasingly become the focus of discourse and examination.

The aim of the Four Cultures Festival is to impart a greater understanding of the city’s roots through film, literature, theatre and music. All performances will take place in various cultural venues: Jaracz Theatre, Art Factory, Musical Theatre, Wytwórnia Club, The Grand Theatre, The Marek Edelman Dialogue Center and Debich Studio. QPrices will be announced shortly, www.4kultury.pl.

EXHIBITIONS UNTIL 09.06 » UNITED PANGEA

The history of Pangaea is the tale of a mega-continent that existed about 200-250 million years ago. The fragmented pieces of what was once Pangaea still bear the traces of being united. By making use of this geological metaphor, the Pangea United exhibition invites viewers to imagine our earthly community as one home. Artists taking part in the exhibition ask how can prototypes created within the art world teach us responsibility for the often-unnoticed suffering inflicted on other bodies? What can we learn from people who live in communities under threat of extinction, many of whom belong to so-called indigenous and folk cultures? What would be the value of goods, money and labour in a future devoid of all prospect of economic growth? The artworks presented in this exhibition form a kind of essay, a meditation on the matter of human attentiveness and the interdependence of life in all its forms. The exhibition is prepared in cooperation with EdithRuß-Haus für Medienkunst in Oldenburg.QI‑10, Museum of Art in Łódź - ms¹, ul. Więckowskiego 36, tel. (+48) 42 633 97 90, Tickets 3-15zł, www.msl.org.pl. Open 11:00 19:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 08.06 » PROTOTYPES 02: CODEX SUBPARTUM

The exhibition Codex Postpartum is part of the Prototypes project to test the concept included in the title on the material from the collections of the Art Museum in Łodź. As part of it, invited artists use the works from the museum’s resources to try to model our contemporary reality. Thanks to their activities, the museum’s collection turns into a pool of practices and methods awaiting updating, reusing or launching them. In Codex Subpartum, the artists use the sound to search for words in Wacław Szpakowski’s great-handwriting, memories in the graphics of Mona Vatamanu and Florin Tudor, computational algorithms in Suzanne Treister’s diagrams, or distorting vision elixirs in the works of Bob Cobbing.QI‑8, Museum of Art in Łódź- ms², ul. Ogrodowa 19, tel. (+48) 42 634 39 48, www.msl.org.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Tue 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon.

Events 10.05 - 01.09 » AROUND KONRADA KRZYŻANOWSKI. ASSOCIATIONS AND EXPRESSIONS

Konrad Krzyżanowski, a Ukrainian born Polish portrait and landscape painter, considered to be an early exponent of Expressionism in Poland, a popular, colourful character among Warsaw’s bohemian artists at the beginning of the 20th century. The passionate artist and fiercely committed art teacher who believed the art should be an individual expression of emotions, not a constant search for an applause and validation.

Well known only in his own close circle of artist friends, he never gained wider popularity - even to this day. The exhibition of his artworks aims at bringing his body of work closer to the modern audience. QO‑15, Herbst Palace, ul. Przędzalniana 72, tel. (+48) 42 674 96 98, Tickets 5/10zł, www.palac-herbsta.org.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

17.05 - 21.07 » SŁOWNIK DOBRYCH ŁODZIANIZMÓW

The exhibition, which is a part of the Łódź Design Festival 2019, will feature large format illustrations of slogans or words characteristic of the language used by people living in the Łódź region. The invited illustration artists created original interpretations of selected words or expressions. The result of their creative activities are unique graphic designs, varied stylistically. The exhibition will be accompanied by a rich program of workshops addressed to both children and adults. The exhibition will also be enhanced by an educational space dedicated to the youngest audience where children will be able to learn about the Łódź language.QJ‑11, Villa Gallery/Chimera Gallery, ul.

Wólczańska 31/33, tel. (+48) 42 632 79 95, Tickets 4/6zł, www.mgslodz.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

04.10 - 02.02 » COMPOSING SPACE. SCULPTURES IN THE AVANT-GARDE

Following the footsteps of the avant-garde sculptors, this exhibition will examine the consequences of the fascinating modernist discoveries regarding the relationship between space, movement and body. The guide here will be Katarzyna Kobro and her artworks which will be shown against the works of her contemporaries, such as: Naum Gabo, Alexander Calder, Barbara Hepworth, Antoine Pevsner, Jean Arp, Isabelle Waldberg, Alexander Archipenko, and Julio Gonzales. Following the ideas of creators who want to break free from identifying a sculpture piece with a solid and a closed form alone, the exhibition will also present the issue of the art reception. The exhibition will be accompanied by tours encouraging viewers to look again at the ways in which they engage their body and senses in the reception of the composition of the exhibition and the works exhibited there.QI‑8, Museum of Art in Łódź- ms², ul. Ogrodowa 19, tel. (+48) 42 634 39 48, Tickets 3-15zł, www.msl.org.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon.

“Fancy some coffee and good conversation?”

Talk, drink and eat with relish at Łódzka.

lodz.inyourpocket.com 13

Arrival & Transport

Łódź’s iconic ‘Unicorn Stables’, otherwise known as the Central Tram Stop. | © Aleksandra Piechorowska

With Łódź being Poland’s third largest city, links to the outside have finally improved. Budget flights opened the city right up and local bus, tram and train upgrades make it easier than before to get around.

BY TRAIN With the city lying in the centre of the country, Łódź is a crossroads for many of the rail networks covering the country. To handle the traffic Łódź has three stations - Kaliska (generally for east/west routes) and Widzew (north/south routes). The third major station is the new Łódź Fabryczna, which is the biggest and most central of the three. It is also currently a dead end with all trains terminating here, although that will change once the connecting tunnel to Łódź Kaliska is finished in 2022.

With the opening of Fabryczna the main Łódź - Warsaw line has also undergone a major overhaul and high speed connections will now whisk you to the capital in under

Łódź Fabryczna

14 Łódź In Your Pocket

90-minutes. You can take trains directly from Łódź to most major Polish cities but the speed on many can be slow and minor delays are standard. At present a 250km journey to Kraków will take anywhere from two and a half to four hours. Gdańsk, 370km away, will take around 5 and a half hours. It is worth checking the useful website www. rozklad-pkp.pl for the best connection. ŁÓDŹ FABRYCZNA TRAIN STATION On December 12, 2016 the first train rolled into the newly designed Łódź Fabryczna after a 5 year hiatus. This was a monumental and indeed historic moment for the city and the region as the new station not only offers new connections and modern conveniences, but it is the very heart of the city’s plan to rejuvenate the entire city centre. Łódź Fabryczna is one of the most modern railway stations in Poland. The pristine and polished granite floors of the wast wing meet a giant polished black ‘obelisk’ which houses several ticket offices where you can buy tickets for PKP Intercity, Regional Transport and Łódź Agglomeration Railway trains (ŁKA).

The east wing of the station is different in character from the west wing and is flanked by facades of large white townhouses which are a nod to the old Fabryczna station and instead of a single glass canopy they are covered by glass buttresses. In the townhouses there are ticket offices a commuter rail (ŁKA) Passenger Centre and in the north-east part there are lockers as well as ATMs an infopoint (InfoDworzec) for all transportation and tourist queries, and the regional Bus Station.QL‑11, Pl. Sałacińskiego 1, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl.

Arrival & Transport ŁÓDŹ WIDZEW TRAIN STATION Łódź Widzew enjoyed more traffic while Łódź Fabryczna was being upgraded. Now that Fabryczna has reopened it still sees continued traffic as a commuter hub for all points East and North. Widzew was recently modernised and now has an automated ticket machine, waiting room with paid toilets, press kiosk, café and snack bar plus unreliable Wi-Fi. If you want to save on cab money and take a tram to the city centre, walk the 200 metres to the Puszkina - Rondo Inwalidów tram stop (from ul. Służbowa walk to ul. Adamieckiego and turn right onto ul. Rokicińska and you’re there) - take trams 3 or 8 to get to Piotrkowska Centrum in 20 mins. If you don’t want to walk far, just outside the station, catch buses 75A, 75B or 75C from Dworzec Łódź Widzew bus stop and get off at the Piłsudskiego - Konstytucyjna bus stop, then catch trams 8 or 10B to Piotrkowska Centrum. The journey takes around 30 mins.Qul. Służbowa 8, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs.

Note that, due to system maintenance, seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00.

BY BUS Most Bus travellers to Łódź are dropped off at the Łódź Fabryczna Bus station although some may still be routed to Łódź Kaliska Station which is a 15-20 minute trip from the centre. ŁÓDŹ KALISKA BUS STATION Express and international buses depart from Łódź-Kaliska (there is parking in front of the post office) and international tickets can be purchased from the booking office which is open Mon-Fri 10:00-17:15, Sat 10:00-16:00 & Sun closed (the domestic ticket office is open Mon-Fri 06:30-17:15 and Sat-Sun 08:30-16:00). There is no luggage storage, but you will find toilets and kiosks for transport tickets. In addition to Kaliska there is another bus station, Dworzec Północny PKS, located at ul. Smugowa 30/32 where you can catch more local buses. Note that all buses to Warsaw leave from Kaliska. Bus schedules should be checked via the fantastic e-podroznik.pl transport service.

To get to the city centre, you can take a taxi or tram 10 to get to the neighbourhood of Piotrkowska. Make sure to check the latest tram and bus prices on www.mpk. lodz.pl before your trip and plan your journey times using the JakDojade schedule/route planner app.QF‑14, Al. Włókniarzy 227, tel. (+48) 42 631 97 06, www.pks.lodz.pl.

BY PLANE As Poland’s third largest city Łódź gets its fair share of air passengers, and with a brand new terminal the experience of flying in to and out of the city has gotten increasingly more pleasant (well, as pleasant as flying can be, anyway). ŁÓDŹ WŁADYSŁAW REYMONT AIRPORT Łódź Władysław Reymont Airport (Port Lotniczy Łódź im. Władysława Reymonta) opened a new terminal in June 2012 that significantly enlarged the airport’s capacity and which now handles all arrivals and departures. Inside you’ll find Hertz, Enterprise, Europcar, Sixt, Avis and Panek, ATMs to withdraw Polish currency and several places to grab food and drink or a cup of coffee. You can also do some shopping in the well stocked shops.

The Airport is located around 6-10km from Łódź city centre. By car it’s around 20 minutes and by public transport is about 20-40 minutes. Taxis hover outside the arrivals terminal and a journey to the centre is around 20-40zł. Three taxi companies, Taxi 400 400 (+48 42 640 04 00), Taxi Plus (+48 800 50 05 00) and Green Cab (+48 42 666 44 44) are permitted to pick up from the airport and can be trusted. The bus stop is directly outside the main entrance with bus no.s 65A and 65B (running every 20-30 minutes) taking you to Łódź Kaliska Train Station, from where you can then take tram 10B straight to the main street ul. Piotrkowska (tram stop ‘Piotrkowska Centrum’). A single 40 minute ticket (valid for 60 minutes until end of 2019 due to network redevelopement) costs 3.60zł (reduced 1.80zł).Qul. Gen. Stanisława Maczka 35, tel. (+48) 42 683 52 55, www.lotnisko.lodz.pl.

BY CAR In the last decade, the road quality issues in Poland have been improving thanks to EU directives and funding, however, the work is definitely ongoing. Generally, you will most likely stick to high-speed and good quality motorways or expressways, but do remember, once you leave these roads onto old single lane roads, you will be driving amongst anything from a sports car to a tractor.

Indeed, despite the overall road improvements, Poland is still one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities. lodz.inyourpocket.com 15

Arrival & Transport Poland has strong drink-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as they are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licenses invalid. Carry your license and passport at all times when driving.

The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/ hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All cars are required to carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs and a national identity sticker. A new law was introduced in April 2007 making it compulsory to have headlights switched on at all times.

ARRIVING BY CAR Connecting Łódź with the outside world are the E75 running north, the E30 going north east, the west bound A2, the south running E75, and road number 72 heading to the east. Once in Łódź, if you’re parking on the street you’ll be paying one of two rates from 8:00 18:00 (Mon - Fri): Zone A: 1,50zł (first 30mins), 3zł (first hr), 3,50zł (second hr) 4zł (third hr) 3zł (fourth and every additional hr). Zone B: 1zł (first 30 mins), 2.50zł (first hr), 3zł (second h), 3,50zł (third h) 2,50zł (fourth and each additional hr).

GUARDED PARKING QM‑9, ul. Sterlinga 21, tel. (+48) 791 55 33 32.

GUARDED PARKING QJ‑7, ul. Łagiewnicka 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 657 67 84.

CAR RENTAL AVIS Avis, the global leader in car rentals, offer short and long rental cars, vans and chauffeur driven vehicles, including everything from small city cars to shared vans. Over 1,000 models are available with all equipped with air conditioning, airbags and ABS to ensure both comfort and safety. Flexible terms of cooperation from experts in professionalism, convenience and safety. City centre location. Also available at the airport upon request (with the same opening hours).QH‑14, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź), tel. (+48) 607 03 63 08, www.avis.pl. Open 08:00-16:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. EUROPCAR Europcar is one of the biggest car rental companies and offers eight different categories of vehicles to choose from.

The airport location makes it easy to nab a car and dash.

Qul. Gen. Stanisława Maczka 35 (Airport), tel. (+48) 42 253 14 04, www.europcar.com.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-17:00. Outside of these hours open by prior arrangement.

16 Łódź In Your Pocket

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Łódź can boast a well-developed network of bus and tram routes that traverse the city. The comprehensive website at www.mpk.lodz.pl features full English content, including timetables, general information and ticket prices. Tickets (bilety) can be purchased from automated machines at stops and some onboard machines, which must be validated upon boarding the tram or bus by validating them in the machines (kasowniks) next to the doors. Failure to do so will result in a 108zł fine (if paid in 7 days; after it goes up to 270zł) if you’re caught by ticket inspectors. Due to redevelopment of the transport network in the city, the ticket options have temporarily changed and will remain as follows until the end of 2019: 2.80zł (1.40zł) 20 minutes (now valid for 40 mins) 3.60zł (1.80zł) 40 minutes (now valid for 60 mins) One day passes (valid till 23:59 that day) can be purchased from kiosks (Zone I: 11zł / 5,50zł Zone I + II: 13,20zł / 6,60zł).

Both trams and buses usually operate from 05:00 until 23:00 after which night buses (marked with an N) serve the city.

TAXIS Taxis in Łódź are generally trustworthy although you should guard against unscrupulous drivers by going for taxis which have clearly displayed prices. As a yardstick, rates should be around 6zł the moment you get in and then around 2zł per kilometre. You should expect to pay approximately 50% more at night and on Sundays and public holidays. A standard day fair to/from the airport from the centre of Łódź will cost around 20-40zł.

TALIXO This global transport service (operating in over 750 cities) connects you to the best local taxi and limousine fleets.

Their simple online reservation system allows you to get a ride that matches your needs, whether it’s a child seat or just a super fly ride. Specialising in airport transfers, their system can track your flight, ensuring that your English-speaking driver will be there (looking snappy with a personalised sign), whether you land ahead of or behind schedule.Qtel. (+48) 30 346 49 73 60, www.talixo.com/iyp-lodz.

The Polish Fiat, or ‘Maluch’ - produced in PL from 1972-2000; considered a family car during the communist era. © P. Miłek

Polish Facts & Language

The Polish language can feel like a maze, or an optical illusion at times... | © Alana de Haan

Some of you arriving in a new country like to know some basic facts about the place. So in a whirlwind, here you go: Poland covers an area of 312,685km2 and is the 9th biggest country in Europe. Its population is 38,858,000 with Warsaw, the capital, being the largest city with 1,763,615 inhabitants and Łódź being the 3rd largest with 687,702 (behind Kraków’s 769,564). The longest river is the Vistula (Wisła) at 1,047km, and the highest point is Rysy (2,499m) in the Tatra Mountains. The local currency is the Złoty (gold), with a 0.5L of beer costing you roughly 2.75zł in a shop and 10.00zł in a bar. Now that you’re here, attempting discourse in the Polish language can be terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately many Poles have a healthy command of English.

Learning a few key Polish phrases will nonetheless smooth your time here and may even win you friends. On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, words in Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.

While many letters represent the same sounds as in English, we have listed some basic words and phrases to help you get by. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

BASIC PRONUNCIATION ‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled

POLISH WORDS & PHRASES Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry

Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobry Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri) (Doh-bri vyeh-choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

My name is...

I’m from England.

Do you speak English?

I don’t speak Polish.

I don’t understand.

Two beers, please.

Cheers!

Where are the toilets?

You are beautiful.

I love you.

Please take me home.

Call me!

Mam na imię...

Jestem z Anglii Czy mówisz po angielsku?

Nie mówię po polsku.

Nie rozumiem.

Dwa piwa proszę.

Na zdrowie!

Gdzie są toalety?

Jesteś piękna.

Kocham cię.

Proszę zabierz mnie do domu.

Zadzwoń do mnie!

(Mam nah ee-myeh…)

(Yehstem zanglee) (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)

(Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)

(Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)

(Dvah peevah prosheh.)

(Nah zdrovyeh!)

(Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)

(Ko-hahm chuh.)

(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.)

(Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

lodz.inyourpocket.com 17

Tadeusz Kościuszko stands guard at ‘Plac Wolności’ (Freedom Square), the gateway to ul. Piotrkowska. | © AdobeStock, whitelook

Łódź Sightseeing Despite a long association with industry and being the City of Film and Cinema, Łódź has not only revitalised these aspects of its image, but has outgrown these basic labels to become so much more. There’s a lot to be discovered here, so let us help you sift through this city’s bag of tricks. Read on over the next few pages...

Essential Łódź

Piotrkowska street

Most trips to Łódź will most likely begin on one street in particular: ulica Piotrkowska (J-9/K-17, pp.20-25). Measuring a little under five kilometres, it ranks as Europe’s longest pedestrian street and is lined with restaurants, beer gardens, hot-dog stands, and a mix of Neo-Renaissance and Art Nouveau buildings. Starting at the Tadeusz Kościuszko statue (J-9) the street stretches southwards with crews of all-yearround rickshaws (5zł from end to end) spiriting travellers to the destination of choice. Check out the courtyard at Piotrkowska 3 where you’ll find Róża’s passage (p.20), a fantastic piece of urban art with mirror shard mosaics covering the buildings.

It may seem unlikely but Łódź is also Poland’s answer to Tinseltown. Having produced directors like Wajda, Polański and Kieślowski the Polish Hollywood (p.29) has made an undeniable impact on world cinema. Opened in 1986 and housed inside Karol Scheibler’s extraordinary 19thcentury palace, the Museum of Cinematography (p.29) is essentially two unique attractions in one. The museum itself offers an extremely well-presented history of Polish cinema and takes plenty of hats off to the multitude of Polish film greats who studied in the city before going on to greater things, as well as numerous changing exhibitions. This is the only museum of its kind in Poland, and a rewarding experience for fans of Polish cinema.

Museum of the Factory in Manufaktura

Poznański was Jewish by birth and you can visit his fearsome mausoleum (the biggest Jewish tomb in the world) at Europe’s largest Jewish cemetery (p.33), founded in 1892, it contains over 180,000 tombs. Łódź is famous for its Jewish heritage, though this was all but wiped out in WWII when the city became the home of the notorious Litzmannstadt Ghetto. Over 230,000 Jews were confined here, with over 200,000 eventually transferred to death camps. Jews were transferred to camps from Radegast Station (p.32) and today visitors can view three cattle trucks that have since been preserved. But the suffering was by no means exclusive to Jews, as a visit to the Museum of the Tradition of Independence (p.39) will show. Found inside what was once a former Tsarist prison, this museum offers a chronological journey through the misfortunes Łódź suffered under the rule of Imperial Russia, Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union, offering an often disturbing insight into life under occupation and rule during each of these periods.

Jewish Cemetery

Jarosław Klamka CC BY-SA 3.0

If you wish to experience a more interactive museum, the former power station turned cultural centre EC1 (p.26) houses the planetarium and science and technology centre. If, however, you’re a bit exhausted after all these museum visits head to OFF Piotrkowska (p.22) to unwind.

This is yet another Post-Industrial enclave of former factory buildings that have been converted to bars, restaurants and cafes. Unlike Manufaktura, OFF is decidedly more alternative and plays host to many of the city’s more cutting edge festivals, fairs and concerts.

The industrialist Łódz is most famous for however is none other than Izrael Poznański, and his palace is now home to the Museum of the City of Łódź (p.42). His factory has since been developed into the Manufaktura shopping and leisure complex, and it’s here you’ll also find the official museum of the site - Museum of the Factory (p.42).

Plac Wolności

Photo by Kozłowski, Kaczmarkiewicz

lodz.inyourpocket.com 19

Piotrkowska North the street stretches southwards with crews of all-yearround rickshaws (5zł per person from end to end) spiriting travellers to the destination of choice. Pretty much all of Łódź’s major industrialists kept residences on this street, as if their palaces were not enough, and many of the buildings boast intricate details on their facades; ranging from reliefs of dolphins to dragons to demons. ​​​​​​

Splitting Łódź into two, ulica Piotrkowska stands out as the commercial and social heart of the city. Measuring just under five kilometres, it ranks as Europe’s longest pedestrian street and is lined with restaurants, beer gardens, street food stands, and a mix of neo-renaissance and art nouveau buildings; the majority now restored to their former glory. There’s no doubt the northern half is the busiest section of the street, and most visitors will start their Łódź escapades here. Starting at the Tadeusz Kościuszko statue at the northern end of the street at Plac Wolności,

Łódź’s most recognizable hotel can be found halfway down Piotrkowska. Constructed in 1887-1888 the neo-renaissance Grand Hotel (J/K-11) was originally the work of Ludwik Meyer, though the building saw sweeping renovations (including an extra floor) in 1913, courtesy of the architect Dawid Lande – a man whose designs deeply influenced the appearance of Piotrkowska. Directly outside the hotel is the ‘Walk of Fame’ – star-shaped plaques celebrating Poland’s most famous cinema artists and directors. Other highlights to keep an eye out for include pianist Artur Rubinstein’s statue, and the ‘Turn of the Millennium’ walk: running from Piotrkowska 98 through till 146 you’ll find 12,859 names of Łódź residents engraved into the paving. Elsewhere monuments of famous characters related to Łódź (the aforementioned Rubinstein, Polish writer and Nobel Laureate Władysław Reymont (K-13) and writer and poet Julian Tuwim (K-12) etc.) can be found dispersed around the street. You’ll also find a statue to one of Poland’s most famous bears, Miś Uszatek (J-11), one of 9 Fairytale Łódź statues found around the city.

The most popular part of the street is no doubt OFF Piotrkowska (p.26), with its many bars, cafes, restaurants and all round good feel places. In more recent years Łódź entered the Guinness Book of Records for a time as possessing the largest mural in the world, now deemed one of the largest in Europe. Painted by the Design Futura group in November 2001, the mural took two months to complete and is apparently very symbolic. The ‘city of Łódź’ mural Features Plac Wolności and the Kościuszko monument, Old Town Hall, an old tram and the city’s emblem on the side of a boat, the work combines the traditional with the modern and is well worth having a look at. Find it in the car park at ul. Piotrkowska 152, and just around the corner you will find another mural by Spanish artist Aryz and Brazilian brothers Os Gemeos.

At the intersection of Piotrkowska, at al. Piłsudskiego, the officially named central tram stop (Dworzec Tramwajowy Centrum) is affectionately known by locals as ‘Stajnia Jednorożców’ (Unicorn Stables) due to its colourful mosaic roof.

DĘTKA CANAL MUSEUM This is industrial tourism at its best, allowing visitors to Łódź to penetrate the earth’s core and visit the sewers that lie below. Designed by William Heerlein Lindley and put into action by Stefan Skrzywin, this red brick subterranean reservoir was originally opened in 1926, serving the original purpose to clean and purify the sewage produced by the natives. Running a length of 142 metres, and holding a

20 Łódź In Your Pocket

Linat Orchim Dętka Canal Museum Pomorska - pl. Wolności

Fountain of Love

Common Theatre

Zachodnia - Legionów

Pl. Tadeusz Kościuszko Wolności Archaeology

Pharmacy Róża's Passage

ZACHODNIA

Scale 1:10 000 1 cm = 100 m

& Ethnography 0 Pentecostal Church

NeSpoon Lace Web

Boutique Hotel

50

100 m

Rewolucji 1905 r.

Zachodnia - Próchnika

Arlekin Home & Travel Puppet Theatre New Zachodnia - Więckowskiego Theatre

Piotrkowska

Próchnika

Włókiennicza

Three Factory Owners Jaracza

Wschodnia

Więckowskiego

Wólczańska

capacity of 300,000 litres of water, it was finally in the 1970s and allowed to gather rats and damp in equal measure. Reopened on May 28, 2008 the Dętka has now been fully restored, with your guided tour taking you past a catalogue of photographs and documents put together by Robert Kuśmirowski. Claustrophobics and other assorted weaklings should note the tunnel is 1.5 metres wide and 1.87 metres in height. Open May-Oct, Eng speaking guides available upon prior arrangement.QJ‑9, Pl. Wolności (near Tadeusz Kościuszko Monument), tel. (+48) 42 254 90 11, www.muzeum-lodz.pl. Last entrance 15 minutes before closing. Admission 5/3zł.

Wed free. N

Wschodnia

Legionów - Zachodnia Gdańska - Legionów Zachodnia - Legionów shut down

The Lamp Man Zachodnia - Zielona

Arrivia Bed & Breakfast

Artur Rubinstein's

Kościuszki - Zielona

Villa Gallery/ Chimera Gallery

Struga

Ho telowa

Sienkiewicza

Grand Hotel Łódź Walk Moniuszki B&B Hotel of Fame Łódź Centrum Arthur Rubinstein’s Piano Miś Uszatek City Center Rooms Struga

Tuwima

Kościuszki - Struga

Julian Tuwim’s Bench

Światowit

Cynamon Hostel

Al. Schillera

Leon Schiller

Piotrkowska

AL . KOŚCIUSZKI

Wólczańska

Kościuszki - Zamenhofa Zamenhofa

Exaltation of the

Pl. Holy Cross Komuny Paryskiej

City Hall

Re:Medium Gallery

Youth Hostel

FAIRYTALE ŁÓDŹ What started off as a novelty turned into a downright obsession with monuments. Unveiled between 2009-15, 9 Łódź Bajkowa (Fairytale Łódź) monuments are dotted around the city, depicting cartoon characters created by the famous Se-ma-for animation studio in Łódź. The more known (and first to be unveiled on October 24, 2009) is Miś Uszatek, a fictional cartoon bear, who has been entertaining Polish kids since 1957, and stands proudly on ul. Piotrkowska 87 with his trademark floppy ear.QJ‑6, ul.

Piotrkowska 87.

Savoy G en. Traugutta

Odlot Gallery Good Time Stare Kino Cinema Residence

Flamingo Hostel

Władysław Reymont’s Trunk OFF Piotrkowska

Sienkiewicza

AL . KOŚCIUSZKI

Wólczańska

Róża’s Passage

Kościuszki - Struga

Bedrooms

6 Sierpnia

6 Sierpnia

RÓŻA’S PASSAGE Walking through the courtyard from Piotrkowska 3 (or from ul. Zachodnia 56) really highlights how such a simple idea can have a big impact. Róża’s Passage brings light and intrigue to this once gloomy spot with a rundown hotel later turned into residential flats, by creating funky mosaics that reflect natural light via thousands of mirror shards. The effect is stunning and truly transforms the surrounding buildings. Creator Joanna Rajkowska (also responsible for the palm tree in Warsaw!) chose the name after her daughter, Róża, who at a young age was diagnosed with a rare form of eye cancer. Following chemotherapy, she was again able to see. Róża’s Passage underwent the same Studionot Theatre journey, as, in the author’s own words, [it went] “from seeing to seeing”.QJ‑9, ul. Piotrkowska 3. Courtyard open daily 08:00 - 22:00. Admission free.

Piotrkowska

Łódz Philharmonic Narutowicza - Piotrkowska Narutowicza Zielona Zielona - Kościuszki Zielona - Piotrkowska

Roosevelta

Jaracz's Chair Piotrkowska Centrum © OpenStreetMap contributors.

Available under the Open Database License.

AL. PIŁSUDSKIEGO

Multikino

Novotel Łódź Ibis Centrum

OFF Piotrkowska Towards the end of 2010 the massive potential of the area was spotted by the young and very enthusiastic artistic visionaries of the city, and a whole host of bars, clubs, alternative music venues, studios, independent design companies and publishing houses started appearing in the area.

There’s always something unique going on in OFF

While Manufaktura is undoubtedly the rich and sanitised version of the ultimate shopping experience in postindustrial Łódź. OFF Piotrkowska is an altogether different, unique and alternative proposition.

Situated just off ul. Piotrkowska (hence the name) between numbers 138-140, the complex has taken over the beautiful old cotton mill buildings of the former Ramisch factory (C-11). Originally from Czechoslovakia, the Ramisch family relocated to Łódź in the 1830’s and in 1850 purchased the first plot of land on which construction of the factory began; adjoining plots were purchased as the empire expanded. By 1909 the factory, in the very heart of the city, was firing on all cylinders. Production continued right up until 1990, after which the buildings and their rich heritage were all but forgotten about and the area fell into a sad and dilapidated state.

Reminiscent of similar places in London or Berlin, OFF continues to attract new and off-beat local businesses with their pulse on current trends and fashions. The past, the present and the future all coexist magically without the need for the kind of massive investment which would ultimately strip the place of its ramshackle glamour. On the makeover point, it should be mentioned that the current developer/investor has already drawn up plans for a total upgrading and renovation of the area in the style of a miniManufaktura; here’s hoping that never goes ahead!

To enter this gem of a place, head through the gate in the ugly sandstone coloured wall at ul. Piotrkowska 138 (C-11) into the large space of wasteland, which looks like a cleared minefield, pass Asian fast food huts, the drunken down-and-outs and head towards the huge red brick buildings, you can’t really miss them! This is the alternative beating heart of the city which, unsurprisingly enough, also plays host to the fantastic Fotofestiwal every June. The techno club here, Dom, is NOT to be missed.

RESTAURANTS DOKI GASTROBAR This towering domino stack of sheik shipping containers is perhaps the perfect visualisation of how trendy OFF Piotrkowska has become. We don’t mean this in a bad way at all. And their stylish street food menu manages to hit on all the trendiest foods that many of OFF’s other establishments have brought to the city. Hamburgers and frites - check, steaks - check! Seafood - check, Vegan and Vegetarian dishes - check... craft beer - check… bespoke cocktails check. Not only is this now the place to be seen but climb the domino stack and enjoy your savoury snack and bubbly beverage in their heated rooftop terrace view over all that frontside OFF has to offer.QK‑13, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 42 307 31 01. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 10:0002:00; Sun 11:00-01:00. €€€€. T­B­6­W NÓŻ For any Polish speakers reading this, don’t be put off by the name ‘Nóż’, meaning ‘knife’ in Polish - you are not being invited to a dangerous knife party. You are, in fact, welcomed into a Spanish restaurant, specialising in tapas and other delights. The interior of the restaurant, found in OFF Piotrkowska, has a nice Mediterranean feel to it, fitting nicely into the industrial frame of the building.

There’s even a nice neon inside to go with Łódź’s forward thinking art scene. Back ot the food: it’s great. Choose from tapas to paella, and don’t miss out on the wines, some of which are exclusive to Nóż.QK‑13, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 794 44 00 44. Open 09:00-22:00; Thu 09:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-24:00. €€. T­B­E­6­W

22 Łódź In Your Pocket

OFF Piotrkowska

LEN I BAWEŁNA NEW It’s quite a rare thing for us to write about a venue which has not opened yet, however, the same owners that brought the same cool ambience of OFF Piotrkowska to a small part of Manufaktura in Bawełna (p.44) have, well, decided to spice up the already large dose of cool ambience OFF Piotrkowska has by opening Len i Bawełna here in June. The new restaurant aims to provide the perfect blend of International cuisine with a touch of Polish flare, being a space for casual meetings, families, and even business people. The drinks menu will also be something to raise an eyebrow to, as for as much Poland is known for vodka (which will feature on the menu), the big thing will be Polish regional wines - I bet you didn’t think the country had a buoyant wine scene, huh? Judging by previous ventures, we await the new arrival to OFF Piotrkowska with curious anticipation.QK‑13, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 792 84 11 08. Open 08:00-24:00. €€€€. T­U­B­ 6­W

FOR GENTLEMEN, PUNKS & DIVAS

NIGHTLIFE BRUSH BARBER SHOP & COCKTAIL BAR ‘Never run with scissors!’ goes the old saying, and if it doesn’t already exist, I’m sure ‘don’t drink alcohol and use scissors!’ would be a good one too. Why the safety lessons from us? Well, because by day, this is a pretty damn cool barber shop, and by night, a cocktail bar! A strange mix, but this is Łódź, and this is OFF Piotrkowska, where an eclectic mixture of venues have become the norm. The cocktail menu is colourful, to say the least, and be rest assured the transition to cocktail bar at 18:00 is done expertly - you won’t find a single hair in your drink!QK‑13, ul. Piotrkowska 138/140, tel. (+48) 795 77 05 77. MonTue 08:00-18:00, Wed 08:00-00:00, Thu 08:00-23:45, FriSat 08:00-02:00 & Sun 18:00-23:00.

DOM This is the place you want to head to if you’re a techno fiend! The club itself looks like squatters have taken over an empty industrial space: it’s nothing but concrete, a simple bar in an open room. The sparseness here works; the focus is on the rotating DJs and nothing more.QK‑13, ul.

Piotrkowska 138/140. Open 13:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 13:0006:00. E­W

Doki Gastrobar Restaurant Łódź ul. Piotrkowska 138/140 lodz.inyourpocket.com 23

Piotrkowska South

The White Factory, now the Central Museum of Textiles (p.25)

For many tourists and first time visitors to Łódź walking down ul. Piotrkowska pedestrian strip can seem like a never ending journey. When you finally reach al.

Piłsudskiego in the middle, the main artery heading eastwest, it can feel like a real relief. Well, we have good and bad news. Piotrkowska not only keeps going but it has even more alternative culture, terrific gastronomy and more post-industrial complexes for you to explore! So muster your strength, strap on your boots and head to what feels like the unfairly neglected Piotrkowska South. Łódź has become synonymous with post industrial cool.

It is already one of the biggest success stories in Poland if not Central Europe of how a post industrial city can and should recover and adapt after the collapse of heavy industry, textiles and manufacturing in the 20th century.

The transformation of the Manufaktura complex was just the starting point and the revitalisation of former disused factory buildings across the city has only spread. Many of the abandoned buildings being converted into exclusive lofts or commercial real estate (ie. the Lofts at Księzy Młyn). However another trend has taken hold over the last decade which is quite unique to Łódź and that is the development of factory and courtyard complexes into thriving gastronomical, artistic and nightlife venues and full blown destinations. OFF Piotrkowska, in the northern half of the street, is the best case example of what kind of synergy and energy can manifest when local business minds, property developers, artists and gastronomic visionaries come together. But OFF grew slowly and organically and is now in its 8th year of operation!

PIOTRKOWSKA 217 Piotrkowska 217, which is conveniently also the address to tell your friendly rickshaw/taxi driver if you don’t feel up to a brisk walk or bike south, is a former iron smelting factory with a similarly illustrious history to other factories in town, however on a slightly smaller scale. Okam Property Developers purchased the space over five years ago and quickly set out renovating many of the former machine halls and former workshops in the complex. Right out of the gates Okam declared they wanted P217 to be a creative zone for artists and entrepreneurs and they have stuck to their guns ever since. Unlike OFF however, which focused more on nightlife and alternative urban culture (here’s looking at you hipsters), P217 focuses first and foremost on food. And not just any old food – but street food from around the world. Before Okam had even finished renovating P217 they organised the very first Łódź Street Food Festival in January of 2014. Today, P217 contains a host of quality venues from cafes, restaurants, bars and leisure venues where you and the kids can get your skates on or even learn about old sowing techniques in tailored workshops (you are, afterall, in the former textile capital of Poland!). There’s also space for hosting events, exhibitions, conferences or special occasions. Make sure to check their site for the latest info on upcoming events.QK‑15, ul.

Piotrkowska 217, www.piotrkowska217.pl.

ART FACTORY (FABRYKA SZTUKI) This is a cultural centre that packs a punch. Not only is it a former industrial site, once part of Karol Scheibler’s Księży Młyn (p.27) factory complex (yes, it was that big!), converted into an art hub in 2014, the Art Factory is home to the Łódź Art Center and Art Inkubator. The site is home to small businesses, start-ups and art spaces, so it’s not unusual that its large open floors can be used as a club per se (definitely don’t come strutting this way looking for DJs and discoballs) but also various shows. This is an absolutely essential part of the Łódź cultural landscape.

Expect to find regular world class concerts, fine art and photography exhibitions (Fotofest!), theatre projects and everything in between. There’s even a cafe available for visitors, for those just wishing to take a peak at the architectural mix of old and new (a must). Check out their

You can easily spend many hours in Piotrkowska South, starting at the fantastic Piotrkowska 217 then working your way to the Art Factory to experience the vibrant revitalisations of former industrial sites. Heading further south, you come to the gem of the White Factory, lovingly converted into a textiles museum.

For the more adventurous amongst you, a walk or bike ride east to the Karol Scheibler’s former ‘city within a city’ at his former palace (now the Museum of Cinematography) and the textile factory complex of Księży Młyn is a must.

Art Inkubator

24 Łódź In Your Pocket

Piotrkowska Centrum

Piłsudskiego - Sienkiewicza

AL . PIŁSUDSKIEGO

AL . MICKIEWICZA

AL . KOŚCIUSZKI

Wigury Piotrkowska - Żwirki

Wólczańska

10 Lutego

Charlie

Piotrkowska 217

Piotrkowska - Brzeźna

Brzeźna

Radwańska

Piotrkowska - Brzeźna

Piotrkowska

KOŚCIUSZKI

Holiday Inn

AL .

Tylna

K A l . PC

Sienkiewicza

Al. PCK

Piotrkowska - pl. Katedralny

Ks. Skorupki

Pope John Paul II

Wólczańska

Pl. Jana Pawła II

k eniec Tymi

Catholic Cathedral

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Art Factory

Św. Kostki

Piotrkowska - pl. Katedralny

WHERE TO EAT

Piotrkowska - Czerwona

Milionowa Czerwona Piotrkowska - Czerwona

Piotrkowska

Wólczańska

Central Museum of Textiles in Łódź

Trzy Misie (Three Bears)

Open-Air Museum of Wooden Architecture

Reymonta Park

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Przybyszewskiego - pl. Reymonta

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100 m

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Available under the Open Database License.

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Scale 1:10 000 1 cm = 100 m

ka Zarzews

Stocka

BISTRO KORZENIE Find this neat vegan bistro in the increasingly vibrant courtyard at Piotrkowska 217 - as well as a few cafes, restaurants etc. which can cater to all tastes, including good ole street food trucks! But we digresss. The menu in Birsto Korzenie changes every 3 weeks and presents vegan dishes from around the world (try the pizza!), a non-corporate soft drinks selection, fresh original recipe cocktails and cakes and teas/coffess. Formerly a print house, the interior is now filled with a variety of tables and chairs lovingly restored by the owners. A friendly and casual atmosphere where four-legged friends are also most welcome!QK‑15, ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 530 03 33 27. Open 12:00-22:00; Mon, Tue, Wed 12:00-21:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. €. U­B­6­W

Orla

Relax

Łódź Street Food Festival in Piotrkowska 217

CENTRAL MUSEUM OF TEXTILES IN ŁÓDŹ To understand exactly what Łódź is all about, and to really get under the city’s skin, a visit to the Textile Museum is a good place to start. Although everything is displayed in Polish only, the two floors of exhibition rooms containing a mind-boggling array of steam-driven looms, fabric-printing machines, contrasting recreations of how the workers and their factory-owning bosses lived and worked, original paintings of Łódź in its 19th-century heyday, lace, rugs and other paraphernalia connected to the textile industry speak volumes about the city that’s often referred to as the Manchester of Poland. The icing on the cake: the museum is housed inside Ludwig Geyer’s mammoth 19th-century White Factory (Biała Fabryka), an extraordinary building worthy of a journey in itself.QK‑17, ul. Piotrkowska 282, tel. (+48) 42 683 26 84, www.cmwl.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-19:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/8zł. Thu free for permanent exibitions. U

Novotel Łódź Centrum

Sienkiewicza

Żwirki

website for all news on upcoming events and exhibitions.

QL‑16, ul. Tymienieckiego 3, www.fabryka-sztuki.com. pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Tue 09:00-18:00; Wed 09:00-19:00; closed Sat, Sun.

Ibis

Piotrkowska

Wólczańska

Multikino

The Promised Land - Łódź’s Industrial Heritage

Just part of the once mighty Księży Młyn (Priest’s Mill, p.27) which covered 15% of the city! | Photo: Fotopolska.eu

In the last decade, Łódź has undergone a major transformation, modernising, while focusing on the ace up its sleeve – its industrial heritage. This knack for change is nothing new to Łódź; it‘s pretty much the reason it exists as an important city. The Industrial Revolution sparked Łódź‘s rapid development, and now post-industrial redevelopment is making the city an exciting destination once again.

So how did this once small village turn into one of the most important industrial cities in Europe? The first record of a settlement dates back to 1332, under the name Łódzia; 10 years later it was granted city rights by King Władysław Jagiello. It remained a small backwater with a population of about 800 through the centuries. In 1815, following Napoleon‘s retreat from Russia, it was incorporated into Russian-controlled Congress Poland. Although displeasing Poles, economically it turned out to be a game changer.

In 1820, state official Rajmund Rembieliński, interested in economic and urban expansion, redesigned the city‘s layout (which has remained almost unchanged), and crucially included transportation arteries. In 1825, statesman, philosopher and writer Stanisław Staszic started a campaign to turn Łódź into a centre of manufacturing, drawing the conclusion that Łódź was perfect due to the numerous rivers and streams, which would provide water for factories, and for the abundance of timber from nearby forests.

The first cotton mill opened in 1825 and in 1839 the first steam-powered factory in Poland and Russia. An influx of 26 Łódź In Your Pocket

workers from as far as Portugal, England and France came to the city, though the mainstay of the town’s population was made up of Poles and Germans, including many Jews.

Those who lived in the surrounding rural areas saw Łódź as a land of milk and honey. Polish author and Nobel laureate Władysław Reymont put it thusly in his famous late19th century Łódź-based novel Ziemia Obiecana (The Promised Land): „For that ‘promised land’ – for that tumour – villages were deserted, forests died out, the land was depleted of its treasures, the rivers dried up, people were born. And it sucked everything into itself. And in its powerful jaws it crushed and chewed up people and things, sky and earth, in return giving useless millions to a handful of people, and hunger and hardship to the whole throng.“ Within a matter of decades the city grew into the biggest textile production centre in the Russian Empire. In 1850, the customs barrier between Congress Poland and Russia was abolished, a move which saw Łódź’s economic influence grow further. By the end of the 19th century, Łódź‘s population reached 300,000, and with it, not only did the city see prosperity, but growing inequality and dissatisfaction amongst the working classes, which came to a head in 1905 when residents rose up in open revolt.

Over 300 protestors were killed as Tsarist police regained control of the city. By the outbreak of WWI Łódź was one of the most densely populated cities on the planet with a population of approximately 13,000 people per km2. By 1915, the city came under German occupation though three years later the end of the war heralded Polish

The Promised Land - Łódź’s Industrial Heritage independence. The city lost nearly 40% of its population to the post-war influenza epidemic and huge social migration of its German inhabitants. Łódź’s textile trade faced collapse after losing Russian and German markets, with strikes and civil unrest a feature of inter-war Łódź. The city‘s ‘golden age’ was well and truly over.

WHAT TO SEE The most obvious choice is Manufaktura (p.40), however, the city is full of post-industrial sites such as OFF Piotrkowska (p.22), Piotrkowska 217 (p.24), EC1 (p.28) and the Museum of Cinematography (p.31), to name a few. Something altogether different - the former villas of the industrialists have been turned into museums, schools, or used by local authorities. The most famous example is the Neo-Baroque palace of Manufaktura‘s owner, Israeł Poznański, which is now home to the Museum of the City (p.42). To gauge how rich Poznański was, you need to also see his lavish Poznański mausoleum in the Jewish cemetery (p.34) – not exactly modest! Another of the city‘s outstanding architectural monuments is the Herbst Palace (below), once home to the Herbst and Scheiber industrial families. You can easily contrast such extravagance with the very modest former worker tenements (still lived in today), which can be found across from the main entrances to Manufaktura at ul. Ogrodowa 24/26 (I-8) and the former Księży Młyn factory complex on ul. Tymienieckiego 25A. This is a city littered with post-industrial sites, the majority featuring in this guide, just waiting to be explored.

KSIĘŻY MŁYN & HERBST PALACE Księży Młyn (Priest’s Mill) was first mentioned in 1484 in reference to a mill built on the Jasien River in 1387.

The original complex was burnt to the ground on May 9, 1822 and 3 years later the Polish cotton-spinning specialist Krystian Wendisch began building a new mill on the site, which was by this time a 2km street called Przędzalniana (Spinning Mill Street), on what’s now ul. Tymienieckiego.

In 1854, the 28-year-old Belgian-German Karol Scheibler arrived in Łódź. From a wealthy family who made their fortune in cloth, Scheibler opened a modern factory and was soon leaving the competition behind. In October 1870 Scheibler bought the mill for 40,000 rubles and began radically transforming it. Here Scheibler built not

Manufaktura

© fotopolska.eu

Villa Gallery/Kindermann Villa

© Sławomir Miejski

only mills, but an entire gasworks to light his factories and the neighbouring workers’ houses too - the first private gasworks in the city. By now the southern end of the complex was known as Manufaktura Księży Młyn. In 1874 tragedy struck, and the main mill burnt down. Not discouraged, Scheibler invested even more money into what was turning rapidly into an entire city within the city.

In 1875 Scheibler added several two-story houses for his workers and opened a school for their children.

In 1881 Karol Scheibler died. Księży Młyn continued to grow. WWII destroyed most of Księży Młyn, although some of it survived including the original Residence - today home to the Herbst Palace Museum. The design of the interiors and the new arrangement of the rooms were based on documents from the Office of the Head Conservationist and archival photographic material that was uncovered.

New sources of information have have enabled preservationists to restore the interiors to what they might have looked like when the Herbst family lived in the Palace.

The remainder of the entire complex has been converted into apartments and a host of cafes and restaurants.Qul. Tymienieckiego 25A. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission to one out of three permanent exhibits is 15/8zł, students under 26 pay just 1zł; Thu free for all exhibits. Combined tickets available for MS1, MS2 and Herbst Palace for 30/20zł.

VILLA GALLERY/CHIMERA GALLERY Villa Gallery, otherwise known as ‘Kindermann’s Villa’ is one part of the City Art Gallery which has a long history dating back to 1924 - the oldest cultural institute in Łódź. The building used as the HQ since 1975 is a fine Art Nouveau villa, built between 1902/03 by local architect Gustaw Landau-Gutenteger for the industrialist Leopold Kindermann. Day-to-day, the gallery presents Polish and international comprehensive exhibitions across the mediums, and since 1979 it has held the international exhibition of graphic art. One tip from us, even before going in for a visit, take in the extraordinary detail of the building from the outside - inside it just gets better with the organic flow of every little detail on the windows to the fine marble fireplace.QJ‑6, ul. Wólczańska 31/33, tel. (+48) 42 632 79 95, www.mgslodz.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 6/4zł, Thu free. N lodz.inyourpocket.com 27

EC1

EC1 Łódź, making waves in the city centre.

The second stage of one of the most monumental architectural, industrial, scientific and cultural structures in Europe is now complete. The complex is known to us mere mortals as EC1 and the east and west wings of this impressive space are now open for business. The mere presence of these glorious structures has dramatically changed the landscape of Łódź’s city centre which is only enhanced by the revitalisation of the equally impressive Łódź Fabryczna train station (p.14).

The story goes like this: In February 2007 Łódź city authorities finally decided to do something about the dreadful state the city found itself in (the phrase ‘postindustrial wasteland’ comes to mind). In co-operation with the World Arts Foundation they handed the job of drawing up the master plan to Rob Krier, a Luxembourg-

Red brick mixed with modern architecture - lovely!

28 Łódź In Your Pocket

born architect with a string of accolades to his name. What he came up with was a complete restructuring of the area between ul. Kiliński, Kopcińskiego, Narutowicza and Tuwima. He consulted with many Polish and international designers and prominent artists (David Lynch was originally attached to the project), and his final design, while revolutionary and modern, also incorporates many of the industrial elements that define the city’s architecture.

EC1 itself is actually the local name for the former electric factory (Elektrociepłownia 1). Originally constructed in 1907, the plant supplied power to the city up until 2001, after which it was allowed to fall into disrepair.

The project to breathe life back into the EC1 complex was divided into several stages with the plant and surrounding areas split into sections with the aim to provide a real cultural experience; a place, if you will, to think and to experience – a city within a city. As we mentioned earlier, EC1 East is the first building to be opened to the public. It serves as a cultural space hosting workshops, art exhibitions and other various cultural events. In this part of the factory there is also a Planetarium (p.29), already visited by over 200,000 people since opening and voted top spot in the National Geographic’s 7 Wonders of Poland competition 2016. Also, EC1 East is home to the National Centre for Film Culture and next to it, the Łódź Film Commission.

The adjacent EC1 West will, as of January 2018, house Poland’s largest interactive Science and Technology Centre (p.29), which will primarily host a permanent exhibition consisting of interactive devices and displays that will enable the public to take part in activities, experience,

EC1 observe and study the phenomena of various physical and chemical reactions as well as examine many biological structures up close. There will be selected exhibits covering other disciplines too, such as the humanities, archaeology palaeontology and the social sciences. If that’s not enough, it will also have a 3D Omnimax Cinema complex which will be one of the most advanced in all of Europe, projecting films in stunning 4k resolution.

Revitalisation work has already begun on EC1 South East, which were once workshops, and will become the future home of the Comic and Interactive Narrative Centre, the only educational and cultural space in Poland that will be fully dedicated to comics and computer games.

3D spherical cinema - not a UFO!

Head to ec1lodz.pl to see photos and stunning visualisations of what is yet to come.

CENTRE FOR SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY EC1 Finally, in January 2018, the Centre for Science and Technology opened for business! Time for the fun to begin for children and adults alike - remember, this was once a fully operational power station (from 1907-2000), so the majority of the giant machinery you see lying around is original. Indeed, so important is this hardware, the majority of it features in the main exhibition ‘Producing Energy’, which takes you through the step by step process of how electricity is produced, right from the coal arriving to the former station, right up until energy is produced for you to boil the kettle and turn on your light switches. Venture onward for the truly fascinating stuff - the intricacies of the universe, where you’ll learn during the ‘Micro World - Macro World’ exhibition within the mightily impressive spherical 3D cinema. Yes, that big silver golf ball! Entering feels like a mix between being Professor X entering Cerebro, or an excited contestant dashing into the Crystal Maze. And on that note, remember the most important thing: have fun, and open your mind to the experience.QL‑11, ul. Targowa 1/3 (entrance from ul. Wojciecha Jerzego Hasa), tel. (+48) 539 99 76 93, www.ec1lodz.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 2 hours before closing. Admission 23/18zł, Sat, Sun 29/22zł.

Family tickets available.

PLANETARIUM EC1 The Planetarium is one of the most modern and technically advanced spherical projection cinemas in all of Central Europe.

The screen has a diameter of 14 metres and the camera will display images with a stunning resolution of 8K. Inside the theatre there is space for 110 spectators. Part of the mission of the Planetarium is to accommodate school groups during the day, but in the afternoon it is open to the general public showing a mix of classic and cutting-edge astronomical shows.

In the evenings they open the theatre up for artistic projects and experiments mixing breathtaking images with live music (check out Pink Floyd’s The Wall Laser Show).QM‑11, ul.

Targowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 233 50 55, www.planetariumec1. pl. Open 08:30-19:00; Sat, Sun 09:30-19:00; closed Mon. Last show and last entrance at 18:30. Admission 18/13zł, Sat, Sun 20/14zł. Family tickets available.

Prepare to be dazzled by 8k resolution screenings!

Fans of industrial machinery, rejoice! It’s all part of the Centre for Sci & Tech.

And that will be that, everything is set to be completed, and up and running by 2020. The full cost of the project is set to be 265m zł (€62m) with 85.6m zł (€20m) coming from EU funds. The full name for the entire complex gives credence to its true scope: EC1 Łódź - the City of Culture.

Even though it is yet to become fully operational (Death Star references are wholly appropriate), the current state of the project is more than worth your time; at the very least you can poke around and take some great selfies.

lodz.inyourpocket.com 29

Hollyłódź

Museum of Cinematography | Archiwum UMŁ

It may seem unlikely but Łódź is Poland’s answer to Tinseltown. Stop sniggering at the back: having produced directors like Wajda, Polański and Kieślowski the Polish Hollywood has made an undeniable impact on world cinema.

HISTORY The story starts in 1948, with the foundation of the National Film School. With Warsaw lying in ruins, the capital’s major opera, theatre, and other miscellaneous artist groups found themselves decamping to the nearest large city: Łódź.

Suddenly home to Poland’s principal actors, performers and directors, the decision to base the country’s first film school here may seem odd today, but at the time was completely natural.

From its early beginnings the school had two distinct departments: film direction and cinematography. Initially the curriculum was limited to simple group productions, but soon films directed by individuals started to become the norm, all filmed using 35mm industry-standard cameras. Among the first batch of students were Andrzej Munk and Andrzej Wajda, the latter scooping an honourary Oscar in 2000 for his career achievements in film. In an era dominated by Big-Brother-is-Watching-style paranoia the school became a haven for the avant-garde, and the small screening rooms would regularly pack out not just with students, but the rank and file proles looking to enjoy the latest European cinema. It was in this liberal climate that the school also proved to be the first place in Poland to host jazz jam sessions, officially outlawed by the communist authorities.

30 Łódź In Your Pocket

The Wajda generation would go on to shape Polish film with a series of edgy films taking a heavy influence from the Italian neo-realists. The films produced in the late 1950s were in direct opposition to official guidelines, and films like Wajda’s Ashes and Diamonds used screen talents like Zbyszek Cybulski, a charismatic, hot-wire actor often labelled ‘The Polish James Dean.’ Roman Polański entered the school in 1954, and four years later propelled the school to international fame when he won an award at Expo 58 (The 1958 Brussels World’s Fair) for his film Two Men and a Cupboard. Alas the golden years soon proved to be numbered.

The late 1960s saw several anti-Zionist actions launched by the government, and as a result the school lost several of its rising stars in the Jewish exodus that followed - including rector Jerzy Toeplitz, who would later become the cofounder of Australia’s first film school. The film school soon regained its balance however, and has since produced luminaries such as Krzysztof Kieślowski, cameraman Sławomir Idziak and Krzysztof Zanussi.

Though the school itself isn’t open to tourists, visiting film buffs have two primary points of interest: firstly the Museum of Cinematography and secondly the Łódź Walk of Fame - a collection of star shaped plaques right outside the Grand Hotel on Piotrkowska honouring the greatest talents in Polish cinema.

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Hollyłódź WHAT TO SEE MUSEUM OF CINEMATOGRAPHY Opened in 1986 inside Karol Scheibler’s extraordinary 19thcentury palace, the Cinematography Museum offers visitors two unique attractions in one. The museum itself offers a wellpresented history of Polish cinema and takes plenty of hats off to the multitude of Polish film greats who studied in the city before going on to greater things, as well as numerous changing exhibitions. This is the only museum of its kind in Poland, and though badly signposted (don’t be surprised to find yourself directed to blind alleys or opening secret doors to reveal private offices), it represents a rewarding experience for fans of Polish cinema. The collection features over 50,000 items including over 12,000 film posters, art exhibits and projectors and camera equipment of every kind.

Standouts include the recently renovated Fotoplastikon - a giant drum-like contraption popular in the early 20th century for showing 3D films, and the excellent exhibit devoted to animated photography featuring plenty of vintage stopmotion characters and accompanying clips. The newest exhibit in the permanent collection is called “Palace Full of Fairy Tales” and is devoted to the heroes of Polish cult cartoon shorts and features (Moomins, Reksio).

The palace itself is a dream, featuring room upon room of delights, including the city’s first electric lift, some beautiful tiled stoves, a Turkish smoking room and many other treats besides. Built in 1856 to serve as residence for industrialist fat cat Karol Scheibler the palace contains interiors designed in Venice, Berlin and Dresden, including ceramic tiled stoves and dramatic oak panelling. Even if film is not your scene, this place deserves visiting just to see how the other half once lived. They offer guided tours in English and Polish for 80zł.

Please note, the museum is planning a renovation soon, therefore, check online to see if they are open!QM‑13, Pl. Zwycięstwa 1, tel. (+48) 42 203 22 36, www.kinomuzeum. pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Tue 10:00-17:00; Wed, Fri 09:0016:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/7zł. Tue free for permanent exhibits. ŁÓDŹ WALK OF FAME Borrowing the idea from the Hollywood Walk of Fame, Łódź has created its own strip of sidewalk featuring star-shaped plaques honouring the best of Polish cinema (can a giant Hollywoodesque “Łódź” sign be far off?). The stars are on either side of Piotrkowska right outside the Grand Hotel and include names like Roman Polański, Jerzy Kawalerowicz and Pola Negri.QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska. ŁÓDŹ FILM SCHOOL There isn’t much you can do other than stand outside the gates and gawk, but the ‘Leon Schiller National Higher School of Film, Television & Theatre’ (as it’s technically called) is where Hollyłódź was born, and since it’s right next door to the Museum of Cinematography it’s worth a casual walk past. Students still stream in and out of the campus, and you might catch a glimpse of the next Kieślowski.

QM‑14, ul. Targowa 61/63, tel. (+48) 42 634 58 00, www.filmschool.lodz.pl.

FAMOUS ALUMNI KRZYSZTOF KIEŚLOWSKI Rejected twice by the Łódź Film School, Krzysztof Kieślowski finally landed a spot on his third attempt and spent his tenure from 1964-1968 focused on documentary filmmaking. Much of his work tended to focus on everyday life in Poland and the lives of average citizens, including Workers ‘71, which featured workers talking about the mass strikes of 1970. Yet fictional filmmaking, which he transitioned to in the mid-1970s, is what made his name. Personnel, his first feature film, earned him a top prize at the Mannheim Film Festival, and he followed up with movies like The Scar, Camera Buff, Blind Chance and The Decalogue. However, his biggest success came with the Three Colours trilogy, a series of French/Polish films released in 1993 and 1994 that Kieślowski directed and co-wrote. The trilogy netted Kieślowski heaps of recognition, including multiple Academy Award nominations and a Palme d’Or nomination at the Cannes Film Festival. Kieślowski died in 1996 and is buried in Warsaw’s famed Powązki Cemetery.

ROMAN POLAŃSKI Many people know director Roman Polański more for his personal life - including a marriage to Manson Family victim Sharon Tate and his evasion of charges in the United States for unlawful sex with a minor - than for his body of work. But Polański has consistently churned out successful movies following his stint at the Łódź Film School, and his first feature film, Knife in the Water, was nominated for an Academy Award. Polański followed up with box-office successes like Rosemary’s Baby and Chinatown, the latter of which received 11 Academy Award nominations. Polański’s most personal work came in 2002 with The Pianist, which told the story of Polish Jew Władysław Szpilman, whose escape from the Warsaw Ghetto closely paralleled Polański’s own experience surviving the Kraków Ghetto. The film, which premiered in Warsaw, was nominated for 11 Academy Awards and earned Polański a nod as Best Director and the Palme d’Or at the Cannes Film Festival.

ANDRZEJ WAJDA Director Andrzej Wajda, who passed away at the age of 90 in October 2016, had the lengthiest filmography of all Alumni. Four of his films - The Promised Land, The Maids of Wilko, Man of Iron and Katyń - were nominated for Academy Awards, and Wajda himself received an honorary lifetime achievement Oscar in 2000. Many of his films focus on war, which makes sense considering Wajda’s background: his father, a Polish cavalry officer, was murdered by the Soviets in 1940 during the Katyń massacre. Wajda tackled the painful topic in his 2007 film Katyń, which tells the story of the massacre through the eyes of the mothers, daughters and wives of the executed soldiers. lodz.inyourpocket.com 31

Jewish Łódź and religious life thrived; in the years leading up to the war Łódź could count 80 prayer houses, 31 Jewish primary schools, at least five newspapers and numerous theatre and exhibition spaces.

This world came crashing down on September 1, 1939, when the Nazis launched their invasion of Poland. Within eight days the city’s streets reverberated with the sound of jackboots, the triumphant Nazis greeted as heroes and liberators by the ethnic Germans of Łódź. Almost immediately the Nazis set about imposing restrictions on the Jews: on September 18th a decree was issued prohibiting the withdrawal of more than 250zł per week from bank accounts, and over the course of the next month Jewish businesses were forcibly signed over to the Germans. Persecution gathered pace following Himmler’s visit on October 28 – in the week that followed the city’s main artery, ulica Piotrkowska, was made off-limits to Jews, and scores of intellectuals were rounded up before being executed in the Łagiewnicki Forest. Then, on November 9, the decision was taken to absorb Łódź into the Reich, thereby leaving it under the command of committed Nazi Artur Greiser. The terror escalated yet further, and within days synagogues were alight and bodies hanging in the street. On November 14 a curfew was imposed on Jews, and for the first time anywhere in the Third Reich Jews were compelled to wear a Star of David on their arm – failure to do so was punishable by death.

© fotopolska.eu

By the time Hitler launched his depraved campaign to expand Germany’s borders, the Jewish population of Łódź stood at 233,000 – approximately one-third of the town’s inhabitants, and a figure only surpassed by the capital, Warsaw. To trace the beginnings of Łódź’s Jewish heritage one must go back to the mid-18th century, a time when Łódź was little more than a sleepy hamlet. A census taken in 1793 noted the presence of eleven Jews out of a population that numbered 190. By the 1840s over one-fifth of the city’s population was Jewish, and this would grow once more when in 1862 laws requiring Jews to live in the north of the city were repealed. Regardless, most Jews remained based around the Bałuty area where cultural Irysowa

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Jewish Łódź The New Year brought with it a fresh set of trials. On February 8, 1940, newspapers broke the news that Jews would be resettled in a separate ghetto in Bałuty. After two months of transition the area was sealed on April 30, 1940, following the completion of a barbed wire wall surrounding the area.

No one except a few authorised officials could get in or out, and approaching the wall from either side brought instant death from a guard’s bullet.

Conditions inside the ghetto were poor - Jews lived an average 3.5 people to a room - though not nearly as bad as in the smaller and more crowded Warsaw or Krakow ghettos.

Jews were also left more or less in peace for the early months of the ghetto’s existence, after the Nazis appointed Chaim Mordechai Rumkowski – a prominent Jewish businessman – to run the ghetto on their behalf. He was given the pompous title Judenälteste (Elder of the Jews) and Rumkowski remains a controversial figure to this day. For a start few people know why he in particular was chosen by the Nazis to run the ghetto, and whispers seem to indicate he either bought or scammed his way into the position. Yet he began well: he tried to preserve as much normality as possible, setting up schools, a bureaucracy, printing ghetto money (which bore his image) and constructing a rudimentary sewage system.

He also convinced the Germans to provide raw materials for the ghetto’s factories: the goods made at these factories were then bartered back to the Germans in exchange for food.

Yet the food was never enough for the 230,000 ghetto inhabitants, and people quickly began dying of malnutrition and disease. Worse was to come, however: in January 1942 deportations to the death camps began.

Over the next three years around 200,000 Jews left the ghetto for the death camps. As the years and selections continued Rumkowski grew more maniacal; he saw the only way for survival to be the creation of a tireless, indispensable workforce. Those who couldn’t work were nothing but a drain on the meagre food reserves. And so it was that Rumkowski entered folklore in 1942 for imploring his people to surrender their children to the Germans.

No other ghetto in the Third Reich survived as long as the one in Łódź, but ultimately Rumkowski’s spurious efforts to ensure survival were to prove futile. In May 1944 Heinrich Himmler ordered the liquidation of the Łódź Ghetto, and over the course of the next few months the last 77,000 Jews were loaded into cattle waggons and sent to the gas chambers of Chełmno, Nerem and Auschwitz. Rumkowski left on the penultimate transport to Auschwitz, and according to some accounts was burned alive in a crematorium by workers who had recognised him. Historical records suggest that 5,000 - 12,000 ghetto habitants survived to see the end of the war.

POST WAR JEWISH ŁÓDŹ Many Jews who survived the Holocaust descended on Łódź at the end of the war and a new, thriving community sprang up. Though there were two major waves of statesponsored emigration to Israel (in 1948 and 1957-8) there

remains a thriving Jewish community of around 5,000 people in the city, primarily based around the synagogue on ul. Pomorska 18. Of all Poland’s cities, few have been as understanding and remorseful as Łódź when dealing with the legacies of the Holocaust.

THE GHETTO The Łódź ghetto was one of the largest Jewish ghettos in Nazi-controlled Europe. It stretched over much of the north-central part of the city, comprising the area north of Staromiejski Park (J-8), and out as far as the Jewish Cemetery (O-3). The area was chosen to host the ghetto as most of the city’s Jews already lived in the district. The Łódź Ghetto is also commonly known as the Litzmannstadt Ghetto – on May 5, 1940 the city of Łódź was renamed ‘Litzmannstadt’ in honour of the German general who (unsuccessfully) attempted to occupy Łódź in World War I. TRACES OF THE GHETTO The area which once formed the ghetto is today covered with Socialist Realist leftovers, as well as whole swathes of buildings that seemingly haven’t seen a lick of paint since the Germans left. It’s a real rundown part of the city. On the plus side, the intrepid explorer will be rewarded by a moving trip back in time. Before setting off it’s worth bearing in mind a couple of points: firstly, you will be covering a distance of approximately 10km. Finally, while it is often suggested to start at the Rynek before concluding your tour at Radegast Station (the train station where Jews were deported) - a logical route for those who wish to follow the chronological history of the ghetto - it’s certainly not the most practical.

Radegast is in the middle of nowhere, so to get the most out of your day we suggest starting the tour here by taking tram no.6 from stop Piotrkowska Centrum (or anywhere along Al. Kościuszki and ul. Zachodnia street) to the end of the line at Doły, a journey of roughly 30 mins. The tram takes you through the district of Bałuty, giving you a feel for the area - this is also the same route you will follow back during the tour, and handy if you get tired of walking; just jump back on the tram and continue with the tour or return to the city centre. Once at Doły, continue along ul. Strykowska and turn left onto ul. Inflancka (crossing the road). Keep to your right until you see the signs to Radegast.

USEFUL CONTACTS JEWISH COMMUNITY CENTRE & SYNAGOGUE Open for prayer and religious services plus a number of other services provided. The Jewish Information Office on site can help you find information about your Jewish roots in Łódź, how to find a family grave, or how to contact the rabbi, find out about times for Shabbat prayers and meals, or simply find about events being organised by the Jewish community in the city, which all are welcome to attend.Qul. Pomorska 18, tel. (+48) 42 633 51 56, www.kehilalodz.com. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00, Closed Sat, Sun. lodz.inyourpocket.com 33

Jewish Łódź the biggest Jewish mausoleum belonging to Israel Poznański). Less ceremonious was the burial of the 45,000 or so Jews who died in the ghetto – you’ll find them interred in the so-called ‘Ghetto Field’ in the south of the cemetery.

We recommend you pick up ‘The Children of Bałuty’ mural map from the ticket office. As you exit, continue down Zmienna as it curves around the cemetery onto ul. Bracka and onward to ul. Przemysłowa.QO‑3, ul. Bracka/ul.

Zmienna, tel. (+48) 42 656 70 19. Open 09:00-17:00; Fri 09:00-15:00; closed Sat. Admission 10/8zł, children under 12 free; free first Sunday of every month.

WALKING TOUR

Radegast Station

Photo: M.Kawczyński, Courtesy of Łódź City Council

1 RADEGAST STATION

Radegast Station, from where as many 200,000 Łódź Jews left for the death camps of Chełmno and Auschwitz, has been thoughtfully restored as a place of remembrance.

Three original Deutsche Reisebahn cattle trucks stand poignantly at the station’s platform with their doors open. Elsewhere there are large signposts, in the shape of headstones, denoting the destinations of the trains which left here: Stutthof, Ravensbruck, Chełmno, Auschwitz.

There are now two permanent exhibitions in the museum: “Litzmannstad Getto 1940-1944” and “Kufer Rodziny Schwarz” and one temporary exhibintion “Our Stolen Childhood 1939-1945” about martyrdom of kids in Łódź.

Continue along the alley to see some poignant murals of children (you’ll see more later at stop no. 3) from the Jewish ghetto before returning in the direction of Doły tram stop as it is near here you will enter the Jewish Cemetery.QN‑2, Al. Pamięci Ofiar Litzmannstadt Getto 12, tel. (+48) 42 291 36 27, www.muzeumtradycji.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Wed, Thu, Sat 10:00-16:00; closed Fri. Exhibits can be viewed 09:00-17:00; Wed, Thu 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-16:00. Closed Fri. Admission free. For groups of 10 or more guided tours in English are 30zł. Please book in advance by calling (+48) 42 291 36 27 or (+48) 795 41 20 02.

2 JEWISH CEMETERY Approaching Doły tram stop, walk down ul. Zmienna, which leads straight to the largest Jewish cemetery in Europe, holding 180,000 graves, with many laid to rest inside ostentatious tombs that are works of art (including

Jewish Cemetery

34 Łódź In Your Pocket

Courtesy of Łódź City Council

3 THE CHILDREN OF BAŁUTY

The Children of Bałuty (Dzieci Bałut) records, in mural form, the real images of children that were interned within the children’s camps during WWII in the district of Bałuty, around ul. Przemysłowa. All confined within the Jewish Ghetto territory, the separate subcamps were for, respectively, Jewish, Polish and Roma children. Between 05-12 September 1942, 15,681 people ill, old and the majority of the children were deported to, and murdered, in the Kulmhof camp (in Chełm). The murals are found in many locations around the former ghetto and can be found using the map you picked up at the Jewish Cemetery. Now get back to ul. Bracka and continue walking toward the park. The 4 Child Martyrs Monument can be found in Park Szarych Szeregów dedicated to the 1,600 children who were processed through the camp. Head through the park and along ul. Głowackiego to reach ul. Wojska Polskiego, and cross to reach the park ahead.

QN‑5, ul. Przemysłowa 12, www.dziecibalut.pl.

5 SURVIVORS’ PARK The Survivor’s Park (Park Ocalałych) is an essential part of Bałuty. The Marek Eldelman Dialogue Center is located here, which promotes a secular approach to teaching Łódź’s multiethnic history, along with teaching the virtues of tolerance. The park is also home to the monuments to Jan Karski, and the nearby monument to the Righteous Among the Nations, commemorating Poles who helped save Jewish lives during WW2. Head back to where you entered to continue down ul. Wojska Polskiego, then turn left and walk to ul. Franciszkańska (along the way you’ll see more murals of the children of Bałuty), then take a right onto ul. Wolborska. Walk along the park’s edge until you see a monument.QM‑6.

6 DECALOGUE MONUMENT The Decalogue Monument is appropriately placed in Staromiejski Park at the point where two former synagogues were located: Łódź’s original ‘Old Synagogue’ and later the Alte Szil Synagogue. Unveiled in 1995, the monument shows Moses holding the tablet of the Ten Commandments and was designed by Kazimierz Gustaw

Jewish Łódź Zemła. Built in 1809, the Old Synagogue was the first wooden synagogue in Łódź, but by 1854 services were ceased due to fears the building would collapse. By 1871 the new concrete synagogue Alte Szil was built on the same ground and was considered one of the greatest synagogues in Poland. Sadly, but hardly surprising, the Nazis robbed and burned Alte Szil in November 1939.

QJ‑8, Park Staromiejski near ul. Wolborska 20.

7 THE GHETTO BRIDGES Continue onward until you get to the corner of the park and ul. Zgierska/ul. Podręczna. The ghetto entirely surrounded Łódź’s major market, Bałucki Rynek (to the north), which the Nazis were keen to keep open. To achieve this the Nazis sealed off the market and its access roads, allowing traffic to come and go without entering the ghetto. In effect this created two separate ghettos. These were split by the market at ul. Zgierska, and linked by three bridges: two ran over ul. Zgierska and another linked the divided street of ul. Zachodnia. One bridge was where you stand now.QJ‑7.

8 THE RED HOUSE

Head back to ul. Podręczna 2, at Stary Rynek, turn left and walk straight until you get to ul.

Kościelna 8/10. Few addresses inspired as much fear in the ghetto as this, known as the ‘Red House,’ it was commandeered by the Kripo (Criminal Police) as a headquarters to combat smuggling. In reality it was allowed to turn into a brutal interrogation centre. Today the plaque outside is the only reminder of the sinister purpose the building once served.

QJ‑7, ul. Kościelna 8/10, tel. (+48) 42 657 02 37.

9 CHURCH OF THE ASSUMPTION OF OUR BLESSED MARY Completed in 1897 this red brick neo-gothic masterpiece saw its fair share of hard times during the ghetto years.

In 1942 it was used as a warehouse to store the clothes of those gassed in Chełmno and Nerem, after which it became a feather factory employing slave Jewish labour.

QJ‑7, ul. Kościelna 8/10, tel. (+48) 42 657 02 37, www. mariacka-lodz.com.pl. Open during mass only or by prior arrangement.

10 ZACHODNIA STREET Head along ul. Lutomierska and turn right onto ul.

Zachodnia. The building found at no.14 is where Rumkowski made his notorious speech calling for mothers and fathers to hand their children over for ‘transportation.’

The area was a hotbed for ghetto activity, and it was in its incarnation as Hamburgerstrasse that it touted a Department of Housing, Employment Office, Juvenile Court and a Department of Economics as well as the ghetto fire brigade and the HQ of the Jewish Police, the

latter being a particularly zealous organisation whose 1,000 members were frequently prone to corruption. None of these buildings survived the post-war bulldozers, though a stone tablet marks the arrival spot of 1,000 Jews from Hamburg in 1941.QI‑7, ul. Zachodnia 14.

11 OLD JEWISH CEMETERY After admiring the Stalin-era monstrosities that were built on top of the former Jewish area, cross the street and heading down ul. Bazarowa you’ll note an overgrown triangle of parkland. Towards the far pointed end is a small stone set in the grass, its inscription missing. This marks the spot of the ghetto gallows. From there head up ul.

Rybna before turning in at ul. Rybna 11A. Walk past the basketball court, and you’ll once more find a stone with a missing plaque. This is all that is left to denote that the area was once Łódź’s oldest Jewish cemetery. Established in 1811, and operating until 1892, the cemetery was the final resting place for over 13,000 people. During the Holocaust the tombs were ripped up and used for paving stones, though the bodies remained underground.QI‑7, ul. Rybna 11A. 12 SCHUPO AND GESTAPO HQ While it might be hard to picture when you’re staring at the building today, this was once the home of the Gestapo and the Schupo, which kept tight and merciless control over the ghetto. Several stories recall how German sentries would delight in shooting at Jews for sport, as a June 1941 order allowed officers to fire without warning at any Jew trying to leave the ghetto. A plaque erected here on the 40th anniversary of the ghetto liquidation commemorates the fate of the 200,000 Jews and 20,000 gypsies.QJ‑6, ul.

Limanowskiego 1.

13 BAŁUCKI RYNEK Right across the street is Bałucki Rynek. Described by Oskar Singer as the “heart and brains of the ghetto,” this was where all the principle offices of the ghetto administration were based – including Rumkowski’s custom-made barracks. It was also the logistics hub of the whole area. The square was separated from the rest of the ghetto and could only be accessed with a special pass.QJ‑6, Rynek Bałucki.

14 REICHER SYNAGOGUE And now for the final destination, which is actually in the the city centre. Head back down ul. Zgierska straight ahead to ul. Piotrkowska. Take the first left onto ul. Rewolucji 1905 and head to no. 28. Through the gate is the oldest surviving synagogue in the city, built between 1895 and 1900 by the Reicher family foundation, it only survived the Second World War because it was used for storing salt. A plaque on the east wall commemorates the synagogue’s founder who starved to death in the Łódź Ghetto. The Nissenbaum and Lauder foundations renovated the shrine in 1989. Religious services are no longer held here.QK‑9, ul. Rewolucji 1905r. 28, tel. (+48) 42 633 51 56, www. jewishlodz.org.pl. Open by prior arrangement with Jewish Community.

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Street Art city, so you can see work by Brazilian twins Os Gemeos, the Chinese artist DALeast and many other international stars of the scene. If you are keen to see all the murals the foundation has supported, a great way of doing this is to contact them via the UrbanForms.org and ask about their private bus tours of the city’s fabulous mural art.

Artur Rubenstein mural on ul. Siekniewicza 18 (K-11)

The growth of street art in Poland is not difficult to put into historical context as the country has a great tradition of using urban wall space for all manner of creative ideas.

The 1960s-70s saw vast wall spaces used for advertising communist-era state-run companies and surviving examples are now revered as important graphic design visions of the time. A relatively well preserved graphic painting of a giant butterfly advertising the state-run Pewex shops (where imported goods could be purchased with US dollars) can be found at ul. Sienkiewicza 21 (K-11).

Over the last few years the somewhat gloomy streets of Łódź have come to life with the addition of numerous enormous and brightly-coloured murals. The project to turn Łódź into an open-air permanent art gallery was initiated by the Urban Forms Foundation back in 2009 and their aim is to improve the current image of Łódź through supporting and promoting independent artistic projects in the city’s public spaces. With the support of city council, the Foundation has so far overseen the completion of over 40 large scale murals by some of Poland’s classiest street artists, like local heroes the Etam Crew and the Gdynia-born painter M-City and Silesia‘s Raspazjan and Mona Tusz. They have also invited some of the world’s leading street artists to leave their permanent mark on the

Tomasz Górnicki statue

36 Łódź In Your Pocket

At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have little trouble tracking it down in Łódź, and we’re making it even easier. In addition to cataloguing and GPSing street art addresses throughout the city on our website, we’ve also marked each place with a spray can symbol on the maps in the back of our print guide, so you can literally use them to give yourself a tour of Łódź’s urban art. As for online, we’ve even listed old pieces of street art to keep you informed if they still exist or not, to save you time from visiting a site, only to discover that once fantastic mural has been painted over, or worse, the building it was on is gone (if you find that piece has been painted over since we’ve last been, please, do let us know)! Wandering around the city you are bound to stumble across some rather fine and less ‘in your face’ little creative acts like the painted and stencilled gas and electricity boxes which are dotted around town. They are frequently changed and too many to mention, but keep your eyes peeled, you’ll no doubt see plenty on your travels around Łódź.

M-City Mural on ul. Tuwima 16 (K-12)

INAPPROPRIATE WEIGHT This 4m high work, called Ciężar niewłaściwy (Inappropriate Weight) is located outside of Łódź Fabryczna Train Station, at the walkway from the station to go to EC1 centre, which looms impressively in the background.

The combination of the fantastic statue, Fabryczna and EC1 really emphasise the changing fortunes of the city.

The statue and was created in 2017 by artist and sculptor Tomasz Górnicki and artist Chazme (both from Warsaw) for project ‘UNIQA art Łódź’. The work is made up of 3 elements: metal, concrete and acrylic. The statue element shows a statue of a man supported on metal frames, rushing as he’s late for his train. The base of the monument is now rusted (which was the intended effect!).QM‑6, Łódź Fabryczna Train Station.

AT THE HEART OF ŁÓDŹ COME AND EXPLORE THE BIGGEST SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY CENTRE IN POLAND

scan me!

W W W.C E N T R U M N AU K I E C 1.P L „EC1 ŁÓDŹ - MIASTO KULTURY” W ŁODZI UL. TARGOWA 1/3, 90-022 ŁÓDŹ

Museums KSIĘŻY MŁYN & HERBST PALACE See p.27.Qul. Tymienieckiego 25A. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission to one out of three permanent exhibits is 15/8zł, students under 26 pay just 1zł; Thu free for all exhibits. Combined tickets available for MS1, MS2 and Herbst Palace for 30/20zł.

The impressive MS1 - Museum of Art in Łódź

CENTRAL MUSEUM OF TEXTILES IN ŁÓDŹ See p.25.QK‑17, ul. Piotrkowska 282, tel. (+48) 42 683 26 84, www.cmwl.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:0019:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/8zł. Thu free for permanent exibitions. U CENTRE FOR SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY EC1 See p.29.QL‑11, ul. Targowa 1/3 (entrance from ul.

Wojciecha Jerzego Hasa), tel. (+48) 539 99 76 93, www. ec1lodz.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 2 hours before closing.

Admission 23/18zł, Sat, Sun 29/22zł. Family tickets available.

TOURIST INFORMATION ŁÓDŹ TOURISM ORGANISATION The English, German and Russian speaking staff will provide you with maps and guides in a number of different languages. An internal PC offers access to Łódź tourism sites.QJ‑10, ul. Piotrkowska 28, tel. (+48) 42 208 81 81/(+48) 722 00 53 14, www.lodz. travel/en. Open 09:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-18:00, Sun 10:00-15:00. From May Open 09:00-19:00, Sat 10:0018:00, Sun 10:00-16:00. U­W SOCIETY OF FRIENDS OF OLD ŁÓDŹ A volunteer organisation offering brochures about Łódź in Polish and English but also providing tourist information.QJ‑7, Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 42 661 46 66. Open 13:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. TOURIST INFORMATION POINT Tourist information is available at the heart of the Manufaktura complex in a specially built hut. Find guides, audio guides, maps, souvenirs and lots of information from friendly English-speaking staff.QI‑8, ul.

Drewnowska 58 (Rynek), tel. (+48) 695 13 11 13, www. lodzkie.travel. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

38 Łódź In Your Pocket

MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY & ETHNOGRAPHY Established in 1931 and one of the leading research institutions of its kind in the country, this charming little museum is packed with intricately carved swords and muskets, archaeological finds from Palaeolithic Poland including flint axes, pots and the customary skeleton in a glass case, charming models of river settlements from the 3rd century and recreations of 19th-century peasant houses. If the idea of being followed by the staff doesn’t worry you in the least then this museum can’t come recommended highly enough.The other branch of the museum Łęczycka Zagroda Chłopska - Zagroda is open daily 10:00-18:00 until September, then 09:00-17:00 until 30 October, (closed Mondays). Admission 9/6zł. The museum will be closed as of November.QJ‑9, Pl. Wolności 14, tel. (+48) 42 632 84 40, www.maie.lodz.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 9/6zł, Tue free. N MUSEUM OF ART IN ŁÓDŹ - MS¹ This superb museum and gallery features a worthy modern art exhibition - called Open Composition - courtesy of progressive artists from a number of countries, including Poland. Fri enter for free.QI‑10, ul. Więckowskiego 36, tel. (+48) 42 633 97 90, www. msl.org.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Tue 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibitions 10/5zł, students under 26 pay just 1zł. Thu is free for all exhibits. Combined tickets available for MS1, MS2 and Herbst Palace for 30/20zł.

MUSEUM OF ART IN ŁÓDŹ- MS² See p.42.QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 19, tel. (+48) 42 634 39 48, www.msl.org.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Tue 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibits 15/8zł, students 26 and under pay just 1zł. Thu is free for all exhibits. Combined tickets available for MS1, MS2 and Herbst Palace for 30/20zł.

MUSEUM OF CINEMATOGRAPHY See p.31.QM‑13, Pl. Zwycięstwa 1, tel. (+48) 42 203 22 36, www.kinomuzeum.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Tue 10:0017:00; Wed, Fri 09:00-16:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/7zł. Tue free for permanent exhibits.

MUSEUM OF THE CITY OF ŁÓDŹ See p.42.QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 15, tel. (+48) 42 254 90 11, www.muzeum-lodz.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00-18:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/8zł, temporary exhibits only 7/5zł. Wed free. N

Museums MUSEUM OF PUBLIC TRANSPORT Ahhh, transport museums, there’s something about them that brings back fond memories of childhood, for they, and indeed this one in Łódź, is a great place for kids (and of course, adults) to visit. Opened in 2006 by the local transport authority (MPK) and a club for local tram enthusiasts, the museum contains models of buses and trams, various paraphernalia, and of course, the highlights - real buses and trams, spanning the history of local transportation well over 100 years! The museum location is fairly central, and is open throughout the week, although closed on Fridays, Sundays and most Saturdays - every 2nd and 4th Saturday of the month they are open, so best check their site for details when planning your visit.QN‑10, ul. Wierzbowa 51, tel. (+48) 42 672 12 07, www.muzeum.mpk.lodz.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Fri, Sun. Admission 2,40/1,20zł.

MUSEUM OF THE FACTORY See p.42.QI‑7, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 664 92 93, www.muzeumfabryki.com.pl. 1 May - 30 Jun: 09:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. 1 Jul - 31 Aug: 09:0017:00; Fri 09:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 9/6zł (12/8zł for exhibition and viewing tower) or family ticket 18zł (24zł for exhibition and viewing tower).

For an English speaking guide reservations must be made two days in advance and will cost 85zł. Guided tours in Polish 35zł. Guided tours included in the price of the tickets Sat, Sun at 13:00 and 16:00 but only in Polish. N MUSEUM OF THE TRADITION OF INDEPENDENCE Set inside a former Tsarist prison your tour begins on the ground floor, where a walk around the former cells allows visitors to glimpse depressing sights like huge, rusty restraints, a pitch-black isolation cell and playing cards and chess sets produced by the inmates. From there the museum is a chronological journey on the “Roads to Independence” experienced in the city, covering the years 1791-1921. The 1905 workers’ revolution is covered in detail, with prisoners letters and presses used to print inflammatory leaflets all on display. There is a new exhibition entitled “The Prison on Długa St. In Łódź from 1885-1953”. Hugely interesting, though the paucity of English-language translations is guaranteed to frustrate.QI‑9, ul. Gdańska 13, tel. (+48) 42 632 71 12, www.muzeumtradycji.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Thu 11:00-19:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 09:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission free.

PLANETARIUM EC1 See p.29.QM‑11, ul. Targowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 233 50 55, www.planetariumec1.pl. Open 08:30-19:00; Sat, Sun 09:30-19:00; closed Mon. Last show and last entrance at 18:30. Admission 18/13zł, Sat, Sun 20/14zł. Family tickets available.

VILLA GALLERY/CHIMERA GALLERY See p.27.QJ‑6, ul. Wólczańska 31/33, tel. (+48) 42 632 79 95, www.mgslodz.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 6/4zł, Thu free. N lodz.inyourpocket.com 39

Manufaktura

Photo courtesy of Manufaktura

Manufaktura today is the result of Poland’s largest renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town in the 1950s (something you can read about in the Warsaw edition of In Your Pocket). The history of the site is one of fortunes made and lost, of war, nationalization and destitution. What you see before you was once a series of factories - all producing various textiles - that were constructed in the latter part of the 19th century.

Designed by Hilary Majewski, a graduate of St Petersburg University, the mills were built in a red-brick industrial style, incorporating the occasional Art Nouveau flourish. They were the property of Izrael Poznański, a Jewish merchant who saw the need for high quality textiles on the eastern markets of Russia, Japan and China. As Łódź was at the time the most westerly city in the Russian Empire, Poznański was able to match western textile expertise and industrial practices with limitless access to eastern markets. It was a winning combination, and one that made him a fortune and put Łódź on the map. “Łódź was waking up, the first yelling factory whistle pierced the quiet of the early morning, then in all parts of the city others began to spring up ever more raucously and bawled in hoarse voices like a choir of monstrous roosters crowing their metal throats the call to work. The huge factories, whose long black bulks and slender chimney necks loomed in the darkness, in the fog and rain they were slowly waking up, belching flames of fire, exhaling clouds of smoke.”

- Władysław Reymont, The Promised Land 40 Łódź In Your Pocket

THE PAST

The first Manufaktura loom began spinning in 1852. Real growth however came about during the period 18721892, by which time more than 80,000 spindles spread over 12 separate factories were churning out high-quality textiles at a rate unmatched anywhere in Europe at the time. Poznański adored luxury - when asked what style he wished one of his residences to be built in he allegedly declared ‘All of them, I can afford them all!’ The palaces he built for himself all over the city are testament to his fondness for extravagance, but he was also considered a visionary employer. Łódź’s rise to industrial prominence in the second half of the 19th century saw the city transform from a sleepy backwater into a gritty metropolis bursting with red brick factories and a horizon crowned with smoking chimney stacks. As the population exploded suburbs sprang up, including poverty stricken rat mazes like Bałuty and Chojny. The more conscientious factory owners took it on themselves to build tenements to house their workers; Izrael Poznański provided 1,086 apartments for 4,043 people.

Designed by Hilary Majewski, one of the architects behind Poznański’s award winning textile factory (it snatched the Bronze Medal at the 1878 World Exhibition in Paris), many of these shadowy housing projects still exist, and exploring their dark courtyards and flaking corridors is like a step back in time. Take a look at how the proletariat used to live by peering into the buildings that stand on ul. Ogrodowa 24 and 26, a couple of which are being renovated.

Manufaktura While his workers may have been squashed into tenements, make no mistake that their boss lived the high life. Poznański had the sort of egocentric, hyper-wealthy lifestyle associated with modern day oligarchs, and his palaces and mansions found around town are testimony to this. His HQ on Ogrodowa 15 was the benchmark of flash, and stacked with priceless treasures and frequently the home of high society functions. Designed by Adolf Seligson the L-shaped structure originally held a 770m2 winter garden topped with a glass roof, as well as landscaped gardens out back. As most other industrialists of the age, Poznański had his residence built right next to his factory, allowing him the opportunity to watch his workforce marching to work each morning.

The man died in 1900, wealthy beyond imagination, and the ownership of the company passed to his sons.

Poznański is buried in an enormous mausoleum in the Jewish Cemetery (some say the largest Jewish tomb in the world), a fitting testament to the true king of bling.

Manufaktura continued to flourish, with many of its wares being shipped far and wide to new markets in America and the Far East, though the inter-war period marked the start of a decline as Łódź left the Russian empire and became part of Poland, losing most of its eastern markets in the process. Production continued throughout most of World War II though, after which it was nationalised, and renamed Poltex.

The emphasis on quality was replaced by an emphasis on quantity, with most of the goods produced here - primarily cotton - being shipped off to the Soviet Union. The death of the Warsaw Pact trading block COMECON left it without any real market, factories closed and production fell. The last textile worker left the plant - by then a rundown, halfderelict wreck - in 1997.

THE PRESENT

French developer Apsys bought the site in 2000. Work began on transforming the crumbling mills into a multifaceted cultural extravaganza in 2003. The opening of the site on May 17, 2006 was therefore the culmination of more than five years of planning and construction. The results are stunning.

The original 19th century brick buildings remain the focal point of the complex, having been entirely renovated: some brick by brick, with only the chimney stacks which once dominated the horizon missing. Director David Lynch was so impressed he shot part of his film, ‘Inland Empire’, on the premises. In all, more than 90,000m2 of red brick buildings have been restored and completely refitted. An equal amount of new buildings - mainly the shopping centre - have gone up alongside, while commie leftovers from the Poltex factory days have been demolished.

The restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be seen to be believed. Enter through the Poznański gate, where workers used to file through every day on their

way to the mills, and you’ll arrive at the project’s ground zero: the Rynek (main square). In summer, this place really comes into its element, with a phalanx of beer gardens, an artificial beach and open-air concerts by international names.

The natural reaction to Manufaktura is to be staggered; covering an area of 54 football pitches the complex spans, in total, over 90,000m 2, and makes use of 45,000 square metres of restored original brickwork, fifty kilometres of electric cables and over a kilometre of metal framework. And what was already impressive on opening day has grown more impressive still. Added over the years has been the award winning Museum of the Factory, Art Museum - ms² which leads the line as one of Poland’s top galleries, and the Experymentarium, easily the finest museum of its genre in the country. Better still, the city has a hotel worthy of its status as one of Poland’s key metropolises. That’s the andel’s and can be found on the Ogrodowa side of the development.

SIGHTSEEING EXPERYMENTARIUM Whoa, here’s a museum that makes science fun, and in a way that rather than ordering you to ‘keep away from the glass’, actively encourages visitors to ‘push’, ‘touch’ and ‘enter.’ The experiments visitors get to play around with are the brainchild of Polish scientists and students, and revolve around ideas of light, sound, anatomy, nature and new discoveries. The space takes up 800m2 of the Manufaktura complex, and also features a wing designated for temporary exhibits from Polish and European institutions. Patrons include Łódź University and the Łódź Technical University. Your visit should take approximately 60 minutes, during which time you’ll wander a large open space filled with exhibitions. Currently the main exhibits are the Experymentarium Exhibition, which includes mad light experiments, a ‘cosmic tunnel’, an area devoted to developing your senses of smell, hearing and touch without using your vision; and a new interactive “Augmented Reality Sandbox”, which allows you to build 3-D topographical maps by shifting some sand in your hands. Always ones to keep on-the-ball, their latest VR gaming zone and Lazer maze are absolutely state of the art fun for the whole family.QI‑8, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 633 52 62, www.experymentarium. pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:30; Sun 10:0021:00. Admission 17/14zł. Discount ‘family tickets’ also available. U lodz.inyourpocket.com 41

Manufaktura MUSEUM OF ART IN ŁÓDŹ- MS² A very impressive space located in a building that once housed a 19th century weaving plant. Home to both temporary exhibitions and an impressive permanent collection entitled “The Art Collection of the XX and XXI Centuries”. The museum is home to more than 400 works of contemporary art and includes artists like Pablo Picasso, Tamás Kaszás and Paul Klee. There’s a constant cycle of cutting edge temporary exhibitions that are usually world class. The permanent collection can also said to be in flux as it is constantly being added to and rearranged by visiting curators. English translations and pamphlets are available plus an art cafe and a cracking bookshop. Fri enter for free.QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 19, tel. (+48) 42 634 39 48, www.msl.org.pl. Open 11:0019:00; Tue 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibits 15/8zł, students 26 and under pay just 1zł. Thu is free for all exhibits. Combined tickets available for MS1, MS2 and Herbst Palace for 30/20zł.

MUSEUM OF THE CITY OF ŁÓDŹ Inside the breathtaking Neo-Baroque former residence of Łódź manufacturer Izrael Kalmanowicz Poznański, this museum within a museum, dedicated to the relatively short life and times of Poland’s second city from the end of the 19th century to the outbreak of WWII, knocks you out from the moment you walk through the front door.

Jammed full of exhibits tracing the history, people, culture and ups and downs of the city, find recreations of daily life from kitchen interiors to sections of streets. There are many fine examples of silverware and porcelain too, and rooms dedicated to many of the city’s former inhabitants, including Łódź’s unofficial Rubinstein museum (the only one in the world), giving over several rooms to the legendary Jewish pianist. Once this was the only section with English descriptions, but more and more sections are seeing translations added. The Jewish theme is admirably represented in the museum with a new exhibition: The Common Courtyard (Na Wspólnym Podwórku) showcasing Łódź’s history as a melting-pot of cultures.

Thoroughly recommended.QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 15, tel. (+48) 42 254 90 11, www.muzeum-lodz.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00-18:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/8zł, temporary exhibits only 7/5zł. Wed free. N MUSEUM OF THE FACTORY Of all the museums in Łódź you won’t find any that are better geared towards the foreign visitor. All displays are complemented with thorough English explanations that put the majority of Polish museums to shame.

Occupying a second floor space next to Manufaktura’s multiplex cinema this spot is more than just a diversion from your day’s shopping. From the moment you pay your admission fee it’s a trip back in time. This small but perfectly formed museum offers a complete history of the Manufaktura complex, complete with 4 working looms, a steam engine model, various dioramas and even a tiny 42 Łódź In Your Pocket

cinema showing black and white mini-documentaries (15 mins. with English subtitles) of factory scenes. Its packed full of peculiar facts, and a look at the boards reveals untold trivia – for instance, the story behind one of the original architects of the complex, Dawid Rosenthal, who was shot by militant workers back in 1910. The photo montages offer a vivid trip through history, as well as moments of amusement; check the pictures of the factory’s sports teams and bands. Take the trip up to the year-round viewing terrace (an extra 3/1.50zł) to get a birds eye view of the factory. Make sure to exit through gift shop, which features some English language books on the subject if you want to read more about this fascinating place.QI‑7, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 664 92 93, www.muzeumfabryki.com.pl. 1 May - 30 Jun: 09:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. 1 Jul - 31 Aug: 09:00-17:00; Fri 09:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 9/6zł (12/8zł for exhibition and viewing tower) or family ticket 18zł (24zł for exhibition and viewing tower). For an English speaking guide reservations must be made two days in advance and will cost 85zł. Guided tours in Polish 35zł.

Guided tours included in the price of the tickets Sat, Sun at 13:00 and 16:00 but only in Polish. N

SHOPPING The crowning glory of Łódź’s shopping scene is not just another generic shopping centre, but a fantastically restored industrial complex, basking in red brick colours and relfective glass. With over 9,000 m2 of wood flooring the mall is split into four themes – industrial, cinema, design and textile – so as to make navigation easier. Those arriving with their kids in tow should consider dispatching them to the Jupi Park crèche found just off the Rynek.

Flagship stores include Leroy Merlin as well as a vast range of brand name clothing stores like Hugo Boss, Hilfiger, H&M, Timberland, TK Maxx and an Adidas superstore. In total over 300 retail units are occupied, with other tenants including the Smyk toy store, EMPiK and EURO RTV AGD. It’s not just mega-brand stores though that are drawing processions of spenders, but a top selection of specialist stores that you’ll be lucky to find elsewhere, let alone under one roof.

Outside the main range of shops don’t forego a visit to the craftsman’s alley between the Rynek and the mall; it’s here you’ll find all manner of stores including a cobbler, as well as privately run stores specialising in everything from metalwork to traditional rural-style souvenirs. For a full map of the shopping centre or further info don’t be afraid to approach the English-speaking staff manning the information point at the main entrance to the mall.

MANUFAKTURA SHOPPING GALLERY QH‑8, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 664 92 89, www. manufaktura.com. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:30; Sun 10:00-21:00.

Manufaktura ENTERTAINMENT ARENA LASER GAMES Laser-quest style entertainment inside an indoor labyrinth filled with ‘surprises, traps and special effects’. A modernisation has moved the game to the 1st floor next to Experymentarium and upped the space to 350m2.QI‑8, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 633 52 62, www.arenalasery.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:30; Sun 10:0021:00. Admission 12-29zł.

CINEMA CITY A state-of-the-art cinema with all the trimmings - 14 normal screens, one IMAX and one 4DX.QI‑7, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 664 64 64, www.cinema-city.pl. Box office open 09:30-22:45. Tickets 16,50-46,50zł.

STRATOSFERA CLIMBING CENTRE The highest climbing wall in Łódź weighs in at 11m in height, and over 500m2 of climbing space. The walls here can be adjusted to suit the individual, from greenhorn rookie to mountain ace.QI‑8, ul. Drewnowska 58, tel. (+48) 42 633 34 90, www.stratosfera.org. Open 10:0022:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-21:00. Admission 8-30zł.

EAT & DRINK BAWEŁNA Occupying a grand corner spot in the Manufaktura complex, Bawełna serves up hearty doses of quality mainly Italian dishes at surprisingly good prices. The interior is well fitted out with the de rigueur, neo-industrial/ rustic look and the ground level features an open kitchen (shoot me now). Head upstairs to a similarly designed area which appears more spacious, airy and features a nice bar.

Try one of their signature cocktails which blends some pretty unique and intriguing concoctions of flavours. They seem to have successfully brought the cool ambience of some of the OFF Piotrkowska venues to the rather plush Manufaktura.QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 19A/46, tel. (+48) 42 633 34 44, www.bawelna-lodz.com. Open 11:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 11:00-23:00. €€€€. T­B­W GALICJA A slightly Laura Ashley take on the familiar ‘old Polish farmhouse’ look makes Galicja look more fresh and clean than most of the competition. The menu sticks to tradition with a few innovative twists; hearty servings of soups, pierogi and meat dishes. Our schnitzels were the size of a fried frisbee and the potatoes came coated with a tasty, slightly sweet sauce/dressing composed of various seeds, greenery, lardons and onions. Friendly, smiley staff and possibly the most attentive and genuinely interested manager we have yet encountered. It’s also the first eatery in the Manufaktura complex to make use of its huge cellar area with a bar serving up eight regional beers and regular folk concerts.QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 19A, tel. (+48) 42 630 88 55, www.galicjamanufaktura.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00. €€. T­B­E­W 44 Łódź In Your Pocket

DELIGHT RESTAURANT It’s the best hotel in town, so it’s no surprise the house restaurant is staking a claim as the best eatery around. Set to a neo-industrial background, Delight has a naff name but a chef (Mirosław Jabłóński) who is a star in the making.

It’s vast size means empty seats are par for the course, but that’s no reflection on the culinary talent. Expect perfectly presented, edgy cuisine that tastes as good as it looks. They were the only restaurant in Łódź to be awarded 2 points in the Gault & Millau culinary guide. Whether you’re a guest or not, saddle up to their stupendous buffet breakfast Mon-Fri 06:30-10:30 and Sat, Sun 07:00-11:00, and every 1st Sun of the month, the Sunday Brunch Delight buffet from 13:0016:30.QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (Vienna House Andel’s Lodz), tel. (+48) 42 279 16 77, www.viennahouse.com/ pl/andels-lodz. Open 06:30-10:30, 18:00-23:00; Sat 07:00-11:00, 18:00-23:00; Sun 07:00-11:00. €€€€. T­U­ B­W SZPULKA A rarity amongst the numerous eateries in the Manufaktura complex - a truly hip and contemporary bistro serving seasonally-inspired Polish fusion dishes in a modern, arty environment. All day breakfasts are a highlight like a classic scramble with french toast or a more fit szpulka light option with cottage cheese and vegetables. The downstairs is pretty much half open kitchen, half seating. The definitions of space seem to blend into each other rather nicely with wooden, glassfronted cases showing works by artists and designers like photographer/illustrator Blanka Biernat. Also worth noting is a large wall mural by Proembrion (Krzysztof Syruć).QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 19, tel. (+48) 42 634 24 72, www.szpulkalodz.com. Open 08:00-23:45; Fri 08:00-02:00; Sat 09:0002:00; Sun 09:00-23:45. €€€. B­W WHISKEY IN THE JAR MANUFAKTURA Whiskey in the Jar has now set up shop in Łódź after success in Poznań and Wrocław, and what a great location to make an impact - Manufaktura. If the ‘Rock ‘n’ Roll’, ‘steakhouse’ and images of motorcycle paraphernalia plastered everywhere hasn’t given the game away, then the ‘whiskey’ with an ‘e’ suggests you’re in for an American treat. Once inside, you can be forgiven for thinking the Sons of Anarchy have gone straight and settled in Łódź. The decor is a mixture of old Łódź red brick, street artwork around the theme of rock ‘n’ roll and motorcycle gang culture. It’s hard not to spot the Harley Davidson hanging upside down from the ceiling!

Here you’ll find a host of cocktails with funky names, usually containing good ole Bourbon, and served in even funkier jars (what else?!). The food is what we’re here for (kitchen open daily 13:00-23:30), with burgers and steaks drawing us in. The burgers range from classic, Teriyaki, to Veggie. The steaks though, with such great names like ‘Viking’, ‘King’ and ‘Mr. T - T-Bone’ are a delight. Despite such formidable foes like Mr T, where there’s a will to eat, there’s always a way to win!QI‑8, ul. Drewnowska 58B, tel. (+48) 516 13 68 76, www.whiskeyinthejar.pl. Open 11:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 11:00-23:00. €€€. T­U­B­E­6­W

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Cafés

A great down to earth venue with down to earth staff in Owoce i Warzywa (p.47)

CAFE MAGISTRAT Found right inside the local city hall (block B on the righthand side after you enter the courtyard), Cafe Magistrat is the breakfast and lunchtime home of local officials delighted to have a cafe right on their doorstep. But just because of its name (Magistrates’ Cafe), its location, and the sometimes boring legal jargon heard from nearby tables, it doesn’t mean this place is off-limits to us commoners. So whether you’re here to sort out some bureaucratic issues in city hall and want to have a coffee to calm your nerves (bureaucratic processes in Poland remain frustrating, so good luck to you), or just want some decent breakfast or lunch options (12:00-16:00 Mon-Fri soup & main for 1619zł), then you can’t go wrong here. The food is cheap and cheerful, ranging from simple breakfasts to nice soups and sandwiches. The teas/coffees are great and special mention goes to the fruit shakes. Yum.QK‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 104B, tel. (+48) 698 97 83 81. Open 08:00-16:00; Tue 08:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. U­6­W CHATKA ECH Touting the most unique design in town this place has a nutty cottage design that features teddy bears and prams, antiques and oddities, a piano guests can play on and features a mural by Ryszard Paprocki (he’s a big deal). If that wasn’t enough, they even have Birch trees inside. To call it original would be an understatement and it’s no wonder that it’s a favourite film location for Łódź’s budding film school auteurs. This cycle friendly complex is home to book signings and readings, concerts and exhibitions and they even provide English and Italian language tours of Łódź (call for more info)! Every Tuesday they hold Argentinian 46 Łódź In Your Pocket

Tango nights, and Thursday they even have piano evenings.

To top it all off you’ll find an exhaustive selection of teas and coffee – both the expected and the exotic. An added bonus: they now serve wine, liquor and even chilled lemonade!QK‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 112 (entrance from Al. Schillera), tel. (+48) 533 21 80 03, www.chatkaech.pl.

Open 12:00-21:00. T­B­E­L­6­W DZIEŃ DOBRY CAFFE One of the newest cafes in Łódź, and it seems they’re trying to be the ‘hosts with the most’, but while they offer a lot, you’ll need to to roll up your sleeves and do some of the work yourself? Huh? Well, not literally make your own food, but you get to make up your own bowls after choosing what specific ingredients you want to make up, whether it be for breakfast or brunch. If all this sounds a bit too much, not a problem, as they also have set menu options, from salads, sandwiches and soups to sweet & savoury pancakes and tarts (check out lunch specials Mon-Fri 12:00-14:00 for 18zł).

The ingredients on offer are simple but healthy, and just proves that with the right approach, you can make some really great meals. The food tastes great (even if you have made your own!), and visually, the desserts on offer look stunning. Try it out.QM‑10, ul. Narutowicza 57, tel. (+48) 515 95 32 05, www.dziendobrycaffe.pl. Open 08:0020:00; Fri 08:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00. T­B­6­W

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Cafés E. WEDEL CHOCOLATE LOUNGE It wouldn’t be right for there not to be a Wedel cafe on Łódź’s most prominent street - indeed, they already have one at Manufaktura, so it’s great to have a 2nd location right in the city centre. For those that don’t know, Wedel is Poland’s first and most famous confectionery outlet, operating since 1851 - it’s lasted this long because they sure know what they’re doing!QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 69, tel. (+48) 661 96 18 64, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. T­B­6 GRAND COFFEE This centrally located cafe is spacious and sophisticated with a true warmth that makes you want to consume the morning paper along with your latte. If the buck of stars was to finally gallop into Łódź, Grand could feasibly give them a run for their pumpkin-spiced money. With over 40 coffee beverages, coffee cocktails and shakes to choose from, deciding on your drink will make you think. They also have a decent breakfast and dessert menu that swings to the sweeter end of the spectrum (vegan cakes, croissants etc.) Amidst all the foams and sugary treats the coffee itself feels a bit lost. While our flat white was only just good, the cafe itself is truly Grand.QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 72, tel. (+48) 696 38 33 87. Open 08:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 08:0022:00. T­B­6­W HOT AIR CAFE With such a name, we hoped this place wasn’t going to do exactly as it says on the tin. But thankfully, the hot air is not bravado, but an allusion to old Zepellins flying around the skies, and the imagery of coffee machines at work, producing steam. That’s why you’re here, right?

Other than being drawn to the painted murals inside by Cyprian Łukasik, the immediate reaction to this place is the brow raising size - quite big for a cafe. That’s the great thing about it, for there are only a few tables, all spaced out nicely to allow you and your friends to talk in a relaxing environment, not squashed up amongst 20 tables for maximum ‘cost effectiveness’. The interior is sparse, with plain wooden shelving and basic lighting, all set amongst some chill music, but trust us, it’s something you’ll like if it’s a calm place you seek. Oh, and the teas, coffees and sweet treats are damn good too.QK‑15, ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 794 94 76 66, www.hotaircafe.pl. Open 09:0020:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-21:00. U­B­E­6­W NOWHERE TO NOWHERE NEW Go from nowhere to somewhere in this motorcycle themed cafe found in the former Księży Młyn (p.27) complex. This place is a little treat with its friendly staff they didn’t seem to mind that we rolled up to their joint in a badass hired city bike as opposed to a bike with a bit more oomph! Regardless of which bike you turn up on (or on foot), you’ll be welcomed. The interior has that sparse, raw warehouse feel to it, which suits the old factory complex well. The menu has a variety of teas, coffees and vegan cakes, which you can enjoy indoors, or outdoors in their deckchairs. If you’re not here for some body fuel, then this

place also doubles as a motorcycle shop, selling clothing, helmets and general accessories. Nice place.QO‑14, ul.

Księży Młyn 16, tel. (+48) 731 70 38 02, www.nton.pl.

Open 11:00-19:00; closed Mon, Tue. B­W OWOCE I WARZYWA KLUBOKAWIARNIA What can you expect of a cafe-bar called Fruit & Veg? In this case a fantastic spot that incorporates a plywood bar and concrete flooring inside a space filled with retro furniture and double-take artwork provided by minds that are as talented and creative as they are utterly bonkers. There was us thinking Łódź couldn’t get weirder, then landed this place – arthouse films, rare Polish beers, trippy sounds and all manner of oddness are found here, and it’s all lapped up by a laidback crowd carrying either college portfolios or laptop computers. Pop in for breakfast, basic snacks, tea and coffee. No kidding, this could yet emerge as the best bar in Poland.QK‑11, ul. Traugutta 9, tel. (+48) 508 06 19 36. Open 10:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00; Sun 12:0024:00. B­W PRZĘDZA COFFEE/BAR Our ‘bean-hound’ was so taken with this specialist coffee bar that he wanted to keep it a secret, but what would be the point of that? The selection of beans all come from small Polish and International bean roasters and arrive at the café within days of being roasted. Notes on the coffees in stock are available, or just chat with coffee guru Piotrek.

Beans, aeropress devices and chemex coffee makers are available to buy. ‘Leafies’ are also well catered for too with a fine range of exotic teas. Oh, and don’t forget the popular cakes which are all homemade! Snacks are available too in the form of paninis, bruschetta and hummus. Make sure to check the ever changing photo exhibits on the walls while you sip your drip (all photos available for purchase as well).QJ‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 107, tel. (+48) 507 96 55 76.

Open 09:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-22:00. B­6­W THE BRICK COFFEE FACTORY The alternative coffee trend continues to flourish in Łódź and this petite Piotrkowska outpost turns out some of the best jumpin’ java juice around. Whether you appreciate your aeropress brewed upside down or not, these talented baristas have all sorts of delicious coffee tricks up their sleeves and are happy to make suggestions when they see you getting lost in their lattes. They keep it simple on the food front though and only offer cakes and cookies to go with your well crafted cuppa. They are really into accessories however so you may end up leaving with a travel mug or two. All told, we’ll go out on a limb and say The Brick has the best coffee on Piotrkowska - now packing two punches with a 2nd location on the same street at no.

63.QK‑13, ul. Piotrkowska 136, tel. (+48) 570 63 01 36.

Open 07:30-20:00; Fri, Sat 07:30-21:00. B­6­W

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Traditional Polish Dishes

Polish pierogi can conquer any appetite.

Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and not especially colourful. You simply haven’t had a thorough sampling of it until you’ve tried all the traditional dishes below, all of which can be found at almost any Polish restaurant in town. Smacznego!

BIGOS

Though there is no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

GOŁĄBKI

Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz IV fed his army quinn.anya, flicker.com, CC BY-SA 2.0 gołąbki before a battle against the Teutonic Order, and their unlikely victory has been attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

GOLONKA

Bigos

48 Łódź In Your Pocket

© graletta - dollarphotoclub

© gkrphoto, AdobeStock

Pork knuckle or hock, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish delicacy, the boiled, braised or roasted meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Go caveman.

Traditional Polish Dishes KOTLET SCHABOWY

Probably the most popular lunch/ supper in Poland is the almighty ‘schabowy’ with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, and you can walk into almost restaurant in the country and be assured of its presence on the menu (if the kitchen hasn’t run out of it already). Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a Saturday or Sunday morning by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the collective sound of every housewife in Poland tenderising the meat for this meal with a spiky mallet. So best mind your manners.

PIEROGI

Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawberries or plums, though if you nose around you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are served almost everywhere in the city.

PLACKI ZIEMNIACZANE

These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to Jewish latkes, and may be served simply with sour cream, or as a hefty meal smothered in mushroom sauce or goulash. Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

ZUPA (SOUP)

Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with potatoes and veggies tossed in, with a croquette or miniature pierogi floating in it, or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking (‘barszcz solo’). A recommended alternative to other beverages with any winter meal, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Kraków.

It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg chucked in, and often served in a bread bowl. lodz.inyourpocket.com 49

Restaurants

Head to Bawełna (p.44) for a raw post-industrial feeling space with great food.

You need to approach the Łódź restaurant scene with an openness and understanding that the gastronomy industry is still quite young. That doesn’t mean there’s not some absolute gems, but you may have to wade through some murky waters to find them. Just to note - we do approximate price ranges for you but they are subject to change, naturally. Likewise the opening hours in Łódź are rather a mere suggestion; don’t be put off if the doors are closed during a slow day but conversely you can expect the chefs and staff to power through regardless of the late hour come a busy night service.

offers sanctuary with its selection of pizzas, and other Italian favourites too.

SPLURGE Voted one of the 100 best restaurants in Poland, Quale (p.56) was awarded top honours by the prestigious Gault & Millau dining guide. Way above what is expected of Łódź, with excellent food to match. Tango (p.52) will give you the best steak in Łódź guaranteed - the luxury does match the pricing.

LADS Irish Pub’s (p.55) ‘lad-ness’ can be summed up by its cracking attempt at being both a place for lads and families - as odd as it sounds! Surprisingly the quality does match the quantity. Wall Street BBQ’s (p.51) has large tables, great food and not to mention prices that won’t burn your wallet, making it a great place for guys on the town.

EXOTIC Istanbul Tajmahal (p.54) has recently been catapulted into local fame simply because its food speaks for itself - for both carnivores and vegetarians alike. Złoty Imbir (p.53) needs to be checked out, because it fails to do what most other ‘Asian’ places in the city do - cause indigestion and guilt. Thankfully.

LOCAL Try Piwnica Łódzka (p.60) if you want a sense of what Polish people are actually eating, and Powidok (p.61) if you want a sense of what Polish people are known for eating.

Great places.

KIDS It’s nice to find good pizza in Łódź, especially when it’s a firm favourite with the kids. Angelo Ristorante (p.57) 50 Łódź In Your Pocket

COUPLES The fantastic Nóż (p.22) is a strong choice for dates as it lacks that uncomfortable snobiness and instead provides inventive menus and inviting post-industrial interiors. Ato Sushi (p.52) could easily be called the best restaurant in the city and the interactive, playfulness of sushi will always be a cute first dater.

CHEAP Takżetego (p.61) produces various inexpensive but also in this case, hand on heart great dishes. Check out Manekin’s (p.58) huge savory and sweet crepe selections that are cheap as chips.

Restaurants SYMBOL & PRICE KEY 6 Animal friendly

C‑1 Map Coordinate

T Child-friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

W Wi-fi connection X Smoking room available B Outside Seating

€ €€ €€€ €€€€ €€€€€

most mains under 25zł most mains 25-45zł most mains 45-75zł most mains 75-115zł most mains over 115zł

AMERICAN GASTROMACHINA STACJA These guys have done it. Famous from their Food Truck, this is their long awaited stationary location! Centralised and well designed it has a best-in-town and impressive stance towards burgers. They come up with some weird creations that appear in weekly special form and boast a firm standard when it comes to the classics. Cheesus Christ Superstar hits a spot I didn’t know existed as does MegaMachina if you fancy a Man vs. Food styled challenge.

The staff/owners also have a great non-hipster approach to it all, so don’t be intimidated. But remember - MEDIUM/ RARE. That is all.QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 89, tel. (+48) 537 03 91 98. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. €€. B­6­W WALL STREET BBQ Entering Wall Street is not an invitation to fight the large yellow bull near the entrance, a homage to the same charging bull found in New Yoik’s financial district. It is, however, an invitation to eat some top steaks! The interior is funky, in a black and yellow colour scheme, with natural wood mixed in along with some large artwork on the walls and some neon lights dotted around, all contributing to the chilled out feel of the place. Watch, if you so choose, your food being made in the open plan kitchen. The food hosts a fine selection of meats, done according to your preference from rare to well done, with a top selection of drinks and cocktails to go with it all.

They have lunch options Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 - a bagel & lemonade cost 19zł. There is also a children’s menu available.QK‑13, ul. Piłsudskiego 10, tel. (+48) 607 67 62 07, www.bistrowallstreet.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€€. T­B­6­W

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TIPPING TRIBULATIONS Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuję,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back.

This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and the payment.

Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity).

As such, we encourage you to reward good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change.

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE EST. 2014 WITH THE HIGHEST QUALITY ARGENTINIAN BEEF GRILLED IN A TRADITIONAL WAY

BY A NATIVE ARGENTINEAN

UL. TRAUGUTTA 14

TEL.: (+48) 726 29 77 25

STEKI.WINO@TANGOSTEAKHOUSE.PL

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Restaurants ARGENTINIAN TANGO ARGENTINO STEAKHOUSE Returning to Łódź from his native Argentina, chef Franco Cambareri vowed to bring a little part of home back with him. His passion for authentic grilled Argentinian steak and love of traditional tango music come together brilliantly in his glamorous little steakhouse. The finest beef is imported directly from Argentina, grilled to perfection and served up with his signature chimichurri sauce. The short menu really emphasises the speciality nature of the restaurant. The interior sticks to a classic look; deep red walls, dark furniture and a collection of tango based artworks/vintage posters brought from home.

The cracking Argentinian and Chilean wine list is also unique to the city.QK‑11, ul. Traugutta 14, tel. (+48) 726 29 77 25, www.tangosteakhouse.pl. Open 13:00-22:00; closed Mon. (Children under age 2 aren’t allowed). €€€€. W

ASIAN Restauracja Cztery Ściany ul. Piotrkowska 89 Łódź 90-423 tel.: 885 042 444

e-mail: restauracja.czterysciany@gmail.com www.czterysciany-restauracja.com

DECODING THE MENU Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego!

(Enjoy your meal!) śniadania breakfast zupa soup przystawki appetisers dania główne main dishes dodatki side dishes ziemniaki potatoes kapusta cabbage ser cheese chleb bread warzywa vegetables owoce fruit mięso meat kurczak chicken wieprzowina pork wołowina beef ryba fish deser dessert ciasto cake lody ice cream napoje drinks kawa coffee piwo beer 52 Łódź In Your Pocket

ATO SUSHI Sushi in Poland is popular and the proportion of restaurants opting for this cuisine makes you wonder about how they can all survive. The typically minimalist design plays host to well-prepared Nigiri, Sashimi, Futomaki and the like. Prices are well positioned to compete, but the biggest thing in its favour is the choice of nicely-presented hot dishes such as crispy duck. These and the very tasty ramen with beef soup made our visit all the more worthwhile and there are options enough in the menu to keep you coming back.

QJ‑11, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 207 99 99, www. atosushi.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. T­B­W PHO SHOP Once lacking, there’s been a steady increase in quality Asian food venues appearing in Łódź in recent years. Good! For we are lovers of Pho and Ramen! Now, Pho Shop obviously deals with the former (what gave it away?), and if you know the make-up of the soup, you’ll understand the nice simplicity to it all that packs a punch. And that’s what we also have with Pho Shop itself, in terms of interior - simple, well lit, pleasant. The great thing about this place is that the smell will hit you well before you reach the front door, so follow it like Pepé Le Pew straight to the source (it’s only a hop skip and a jump away from ul. Piotrkowska). If Pho isn’t enough, they have great Bao (bread like dumplings), with various fillings. Special mention goes to the Vietnamese style lemonades and iced tea with fruits and mint. The whole bill was relatively small, and we left feeling well fed, without overdoing it! QK‑12, ul. Tuwima 1, tel. (+48) 42 645 21 78. Open 12:00-21:30; Fri, Sat 12:0022:30; Sun 12:00-19:00. €€. 6­W

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Restaurants ZŁOTY IMBIR Opening the door to this unassuming little restaurant on a Friday afternoon we were astounded to find it packed! Initial suspicion regarding the two elderly and tough looking waiters in black shirts and red bow ties were soon put to rest as they turned out to be that rare breed - old school gents and masters of their profession. Orders were taken quickly and the food arrived after a short wait. Not only was the service brilliant but the food was also some of the best Chinese we have had in a long time; everything was fragrant, well presented and packed with flavour. So popular is this place, they’ve opened up a 2nd floor, great for family and business events, but also for the kids as they have a new play area!QK‑11, ul. Sienkiewicza 39, tel. (+48) 690 51 69 00, www.zlotyimbir.com.pl. Open 13:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. €€. T­U­W

BREAKFAST A typical breakfast in Poland usually consists of a cigarette and maybe a coffee or juice. Unlike some western countries, where the direction of one’s day seems to superstitiously depend on the ability to eat a good breakfast, here in PL the notion of ‘starting the day right’ with a fortifying meal just hasn’t caught on. In fact ask five Polish working girls what they’ve had to eat that day come 13:00, and you can bet at least three of them haven’t had more than a cup of yoghurt, claiming they’re ‘just not hungry in the mornings.’

Mm-hmm... Hard-pressed as you may be to find a proper breakfast in this town, fear not - they do exist and we’ve provided the details of the best below. Smacznego, champ.

SZPULKA Manufaktura’s hippest bistro serves breakfast of all shapes and sizes everyday from 08:00-12:00 (all day Sat and Sun).

Go big with the full french toast, scrambled eggs combo or stay small with their szpulka light option with cottage cheese and vegetables. There is also a’la szpulka with frank sausages, bacon and eggs, as well as eggs Benedict with bacon or salmon, scrambled eggs or savoury omelet. They also have takeaway sandwiches and a huge selection of drinks.QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 19A, tel. (+48) 42 634 24 72, www.szpulka-lodz.com. Open 08:00-23:45; Fri 08:0002:00; Sat 09:00-02:00; Sun 09:00-23:45. €. W

Chinese Restaurant„Złoty Imbir” is located in the very heart of Łódź and is the perfect place for a romantic dinner for two, a family dinner, Chinese Restaurant„Złoty Imbir”, Łódź ul.Sienkiewicza 39, tel.690-516-900, https://www.facebook.com/ZlotyImbir ttps:// om/Zlo yImbir

CZECH CESKY FILM RESTAURANT & PUB The first restaurant to nab a spot in the renovated Księży Młyn complex, Cesky Film is a freshly renovated, bright and open concept Czech restaurant that takes its name from the film canisters and giant movie stills that make up the decor. It’s an appealing - if random - design, but our eyes were immediately drawn to the five taps of various Cerna Hora beers. Paired with the filling Czech goulash and hearty dumplings you’ll start to consider Polish cuisine as light fare.QO‑15, ul. Tymienieckiego 25A/3, tel. (+48) 881 40 38 88, www.ceskyfilm.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€. T­U­B­E­6­W lodz.inyourpocket.com 53

Restaurants INDIAN ISTANBUL TAJMAHAL Łódź’s favorite kebab spot has expanded to a freshly renovated full-blown restaurant with a menu of Indian and Turkish dishes that proves their talent isn’t one-note. The tandoori dishes are a standout, especially if you enjoy a mix of meat and vegetable variations like methi paneer and the palak paneer. Turkish dishes include Coban Kavurma, recommended by the waiters, no less! You can also get hand-held fare like doner and chicken kebabs. Expect to encounter the owner, who likes to help guests choose the ideal Indian dish. And yes, you can still get yourself a signature kebab if you’re hankering for the old days.

QK‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 88, tel. (+48) 42 632 00 96, www.istanbul-tajmahal.com. Open 11:00-01:00; Wed, Thu 11:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-04:00. €€. T­W

INTERNATIONAL AFFOGATO One of the more experimental menus in the city with a menu of the week available Thu-Fri, 13:00-17:00 consisting of a main and dessert. They focused a lot of attention and detail on the design of the interiors and the results are certainly impressive – dazzling, light colours, and tables laid out in a spacious room. The food more than holds its own and they most recently were awarded two chefs hats from the prestigious Gault & Millau gastronomic guide.

Most recommended, not least for a space age toilet that really raises the eyebrows.QK‑13, ul. Piotrkowska 144, tel. (+48) 42 630 03 00, www.affogato.pl. Open 13:00-21:30; Fri, Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-18:30. €€€. T­U­B­ 6­W CZTERY ŚCIANY There was a time in Łódź (not too long ago!) when truly good restaurants could be counted on one hand...OK, maybe two, but the point is this trend has now well and truly been turned around. Cztery Ściany (translated as Four Walls), prides itself on the gastronomical trend of ‘author’s cuisine’. A bit of a confession from me, but I’ve always enjoyed this style of cooking, which allows for chefs to show off their creative flare rather than stick to a rigid menu.

So what of the food here? If you are in Łódź, you have to try for yourself - the overall experience here is fantastic, the ingredients are seasonal, and the food presented to you is nothing short of a work of art, you feel almost guilty ruining it with your cutlery. The starters and mains are lovely, but just wait until you try the desserts. The kitchen closes 1 hour before closing time.QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 89, tel. (+48) 885 04 24 44, www.czterysciany-restauracja.com.

Open 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-18:00; closed Mon. €€€. T­B­6­W

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Restaurants DZIKA KACZKA One of the best dining rooms in the city and perfect when trying to clinch that big deal. A country club atmosphere is complimented by ecru coloured walls and wood panelling while bow-tied waiters, soft music and important looking cutlery arrangements generate an upper-crust atmosphere.

Head chef Marek Skrętowski is the mastermind behind the menu, and diners can choose from a stunning variety of cracking dishes. Highly recommended.Qul. Sosnowa 1, Zgierz (Stacja Nowa Gdynia Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 714 21 51. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€. T­U­B­ W FOUR COLORS Located in Double Tree by Hilton Łódź, this luxurious and stylish restaurant presents an exquisite and original menu.

The delectable dishes on offer are a selection of international specialities with a Polish twist like their own interpretation of łazanki - pasta with savoy cabbage, button mushrooms, pickled red cabbage, pork belly, confit egg yolk, chantarelle sauce. Add to this a stunning and informative 100-strong wine list, including the magnificently titled ‘Wine Treasures of the Four Colors Restaurant.’QH‑14, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 208 80 36, www.doubletreelodz.pl. Open 06:30-10:00, 12:3022:30; Sat 07:00-11:00, 12:30-22:00; Sun 07:00-11:00, 12:30-22:00. €€€€. T­U­W IRISH PUB Irish Pubs have a bad image. The promise of the mid-life crisis’ parked up at the bar; and the overuse of Jameson, green and shamrocks. But the food at Irish Pub Łódź forces you to forget it all, as it’s easily some of the best in the city.

There’s an elegant, thought-about stance towards every one of the dishes including the succulent steaks, which are actually cooked to the temperature you want. The presentation is modern and respectable yet not-snobby.

Whether you sit in the garden, or the basement, the attentive staff will make sure you get hold of the good stuff.

Guinness available on tap (duh).QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 77, tel. (+48) 662 15 32 00, www.irishpub.pl. Open 13:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-01:00; Sun 12:30-22:00; closed Mon. €€€. X­T­E­6­W MISKA GASTO BOWLS It’s not often we write about hotel restaurants in their own right, usually preferring to have them as a footnote in hotel texts. Indeed, PURO Hotel Łódź itself is worth raving about, the brand now appearing in Łódź, which is heavily focused on design - even the tiniest of details have been well planned out. It’s in this setting you will find Miska Gasto Bowls, the cuisine focused on oriental dishes served in, you guessed it, bowls. The choice is varied, but also to the point - from salads bowls, soups, pastas, mains (including big bowls!) and desserts. Enjoy this reasonably priced restaurant during the day, or evenings with its great cocktail and wine lists, but do make sure to just look around at the detail. Relaxing.QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 16 (Puro Hotel Łódź). Open 12:00-23:00. B lodz.inyourpocket.com 55

Restaurants

PRZERWA CATERING & DESIGN It’s one of those places, you know - coffee, juices, lunches worth an Instagram, dinners worth 25zł, white/brick walls with wooden tables; it feels very Ctrl+C, Ctrl+V. The size of the area is impressive with advertisement attention put on the possibility for conferences and events - and with the food at Przerwa it would certainly be well catered for. The staff are switched on and the bakers deserve a round of applause - sipping a coffee here now, would I come back? I suppose yes, but in a bigger group - I want to try more, but sitting alone in such a large space is somewhat intimidating. Send help.

QJ‑14, ul. Wólczańska 128/134, tel. (+48) 42 212 33 30, www.przerwa-lodz.com. Open 11:00-16:00; closed Sat, Sun. €€€€. U­B­6­W QUALE RESTAURANT This place is way ahead of what’s expected of this city, culinarily speaking. It’s a bit of a hidden gem (literally), found in the lower level of the building, and was recently voted one of the 100 best restaurants in Poland and awarded high honours by the prestigious Gault & Millau dining guide. The pleasant interior harks back to the interwar period, a perfect setting for business or private meals. We recommend the seasonal tasting menus - a choice of 6 or 8 dishes to really give you a taste of what they have to offer - our preconceptions, taste buds, and flavour profiles were challenged in the best possible way.

This is a transformative experience, not just a dinner.

56 Łódź In Your Pocket

We just hope their beef tenderloin is on offer when you visit - it’s borderline pornographic. Parking is available for guests.QL‑10, ul. Narutowicza 48, tel. (+48) 42 253 80 39, www.qualerestaurant.pl. Open 16:00-22:00; Fri 16:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-19:00; closed Mon. €€€. X­W RESTAURACJA U KRETSCHMERA Situated in the basement level of the trendy Hotel Tobaco, the restaurant is a stunning and fascinating blend of the building’s past history as a tobacco factory mixed with modern architectural design. The walls are decorated with ‘treasures’ discovered during the restoration of the building - metal plaques, tobacco advertising, plans and photographs from the factory’s 1920’s-40’s heyday. The menu is a well-considered fusion of flavours crafted from the cuisine of the four prevalent nationalities for whom Łódź was home: Polish, German, Russian and Jewish.

Dishes are lavish and this is truly exquisite dining in a unique atmosphere.QG‑14, ul. Kopernika 64, tel. (+48) 42 207 07 07, www.hoteltobaco.pl. Open 07:00-10:00, 14:00-22:00. Note that the bar stays open daily until 24:00. €€€. U­W SOTE Modern molecular cooking? In Łódź? It took us by surprise too, especially since this alchemic cuisine has only fairly recently shown up in the capital. But Sote are employing molecular gastronomy at Nobo Hotel’s restaurant with

Restaurants pleasing results, though us naming dishes won’t do you any good since the menu changes regularly (and creatively).

The setting is as exacting as the dishes, with red chandeliers and crisp white tablecloths giving off a mod vibe. Breakfast is served 07:00-10:00 and mains from 12:00.Qul. Liściasta 86 / Al. Włókniarzy (NoBo Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 234 14 62.

Open 07:00-22:00. €€€. T­U­6­W

ITALIAN ANGELO RISTORANTE It never ceases to amaze us how much this town loves its Italian food, although unlike some other imposters Angelo is the real deal. As soon as you approach the checkered table-clothed tables on the street, the smells of simmering garlic and fresh seafood will start to hit you. The regular menu is short and sweet and includes pasta dishes like squid ink pasta with shrimps and favourites like lamb chops with truffle vegetable purée. Every Fri-Sun they offer fresh fish and seafood plucked straight from the Mediterranean and trucked straight to your table - this menu is different each week! A nice range of Italian wines start at a very decent 50zł a bottle. In the warmer months, outside seating is available in the summer garden.QJ‑11, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 507 55 56 37, www.angelo-lodz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€.

T­B­W OTWARTE DRZWI A lovely little Italian restaurant tucked away in a welllooked-after and peaceful courtyard. The young and enthusiastic Polish owners/chefs, Maciek and Konrad, developed their passion for Italian cooking during their travels around the land of La Dolce Vita. The classic menu, featuring authentic pizza and pasta dishes, is kept to a manageable length with most of the products used in the kitchen coming directly from Italy. Otwarte Drzwi also features a proper wood-burning pizza oven, a relaxing outdoor area, fine Italian wines and regional Polish beers.

They also have daily lunch specials from Mon-Fri 12:00 16:00. The whole experience is topped off by the extremely nice and unpretentious owners and staff.QK‑12, ul.

Piotrkowska 120, tel. (+48) 502 85 57 79, www.otwartedrzwi.com. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. T­B­6­W PRESTO A firm editorial favourite. Cooked in a traditional wood fired oven the pizzas in this white-washed trattoria are cheap, fast and a far better alternative to the big brand pizza delivery empires you’ll find on Piotrkowska. We had the Mafioso – salami, garlic, peppers and chillis – and for once we were not disappointed by a chef skimping on the spices. The topping sauce arrives in a separate jug, allowing you to choose whether or not you wish to drown your pizza in red goo. Also at ul. Maratońska 67/69.QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 67, tel. (+48) 42 630 88 83, www.pizzeriapresto.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€. T­U­B­W lodz.inyourpocket.com 57

Restaurants QUICK EATS The city’s main street, ul. Piotrkowska, has places all along it where you can pick up something quick to eat with no shortage of pizza and kebab outlets. For the best choice of fast food in one place though either head to the food court at Galeria Łódzka (D-12) at one end of Piotrkowska or the bigger version at Manufaktura (A/B-6) which along with the biggest names in international fast food (McDonald’s, KFC and Pizza Hut), you’ll find a good choice of alternatives of quick sit down meals.

IN CENTRO You may hear some locals touting this place as the best pizza in Poland. An optimistic claim, maybe, though this is certainly one of the premier pizzerias in Łódź. Definitely a veteran on the local pizza scene, In Centro pull the crowds whatever the hour, whatever the season. Always reliable and comfort food at its best.

QK‑13, ul. Piotrkowska 153, tel. (+48) 42 636 99 92, www.incentro.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:0022:00. €€. W MANEKIN Put the drugs away, you won’t need any after stepping inside Manekin. Yes, there are a few oddly lifelike mannequins here, but the real brain-zapper is the interior, styled to mimic a pre-war tram. Filled with overhanging cables, pictures of passing streetscapes and rich wood panelling this place looks ace, and looks far better in reality than we could ever do justice. Yet the action doesn’t stop with the gimmick, it only gets started. If there are finer pancakes in Łódź we could do with knowing, though frankly we’d be hard pressed to believe you. There’s seventy plus to choose from, and these run from chicken curry pancakes, to ones filled with fruit, ice cream and other stuff we thrive on.

Brilliant, brilliant, brilliant.QJ‑11, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 671 07 84, www.manekin.pl. Open 10:0022:30; Fri, Sat 10:00-23:30. €. T­B­6 PAPUVEGE This brick and mortar fast slow-food joint got its start on four wheels as a food truck. Their specialty is veggie and vegan burgers filled with fresh ingredients and bold flavours inspired by middle, near, and far-east cuisines. Even for a meat lover like us, their delicious burgers and wraps became borderline addictive.

In just under a week we worked our way through their falafel, Greek pita with vegan gyros, and the Vietnamese inspired Banh Mi baguette and found ourselves still wanting more. We also tried several of their fruit and dessert smoothies on for size and they fit just fine. Slow food made fast and served with a smile.QK‑11, ul. Sienkiewicza 15, tel. (+48) 798 11 16 93. Open 11:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €. B­6 58 Łódź In Your Pocket

JEWISH ANATEWKA Celebrate Łódź’s Jewish heritage inside an atmospheric venue scattered with prayer shawls, menorahs and general bric-a-brac, and don’t forego a visit in the evening, when the live music recitals involve violinists sitting on a chair suspended half way up a wall. A team of flighty waitresses take the orders, and the chef does the rest coming up trumps with a range of traditional Jewish dishes, including rather good goose. The addition of a banqueting hall and VIP rooms now mean that you can dine in private or alternatively at a single table seating 100 people. Opens earlier on occasion and almost always until last customer.QJ‑11, ul. 6 Sierpnia 2/4, tel. (+48) 42 630 36 35, www.anatewka.pl. Open 11:00-24:00. €€.

X­T­B­E­6­W

MEDITERRANEAN KREWETKA One thing we find amusing about Łódź are the no. of seafood places which seem to have popped up in this the city named after a boat, which contains many inconspicuous rivers. We digress a little, and of course imports of seafood into Poland have become much easier than anytime previously, so it’s with this in mind Łódź has upped its game in terms of variety of seafood on offer. Great for all of us. Recently opened Krewetka (meaning ‘shrimp’) brings a taste of the Balkans, from where the owners hail, right to the main street. The interior is basic, the well made choice of meals from the pictorial menu are on the lower end of the price scale, and not only feature varieties of shrimp, but other fruits of the sea, such as calamari.QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 82, tel. (+48) 42 207 42 12. Open 13:00-22:00; Thu 13:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-01:00. €€. U­B­6­W

MEXICAN SEÑORITAS MEXICAN AMERICAN RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Łódź should be bragging to the whole of Poland about this visionary Mexican/American restaurant and lounge bar. The interior uses traditional, earthy Mexican colours but blends them with contemporary neon lighting and some fantastic murals by local painters Natalia Anna Kalisz and Ewa Żochowska. At the helm is American owner/chef Jeff Unger, a man whose expert knowledge of modern and traditional Mexican/American cuisine means that we find authentic tacos, quesadillas and enchiladas sharing the menu with startling dishes like grilled steaks that do the trick. Don’t you dare leave until you’ve dabbled in the house margaritas, based around their own infused tequilas. Check out burger Wednesdays with additional burgers added to the menu.QK‑11, ul. Moniuszki 1A, tel. (+48) 501 67 17 00. Open 16:00-22:00; Fri 16:00-23:00; Sat 14:00-23:00; Sun 14:00-18:00; closed Mon. €€€.

T­W

Restaurants MIDDLE EASTERN SHAHRAZAD Traditional tastes of Syria can be found as you walk through the gate at Piotrkowska 67. Even as you approach, the greenery surrounding the courtyard is striking. The interior doesn’t strike you in any special way, but it’s pleasant enough. Any reservations you have will be put aside when you receive your food; on offer are classic starters like hummus and moutabal, soups, and mains like meat dishes prepared over a coal grill, which adds to the flavour. If you like meats with all manners of veg and coriander, you’re in for a pleasant meal! The desserts on offer are light and sweet.QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 67, tel. (+48) 574 98 71 23.

Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-02:00. €€. U­6­W TEL AVIV What has become a popular place to eat in Warsaw has now branched out to its first away-from-the-capital venue, right here in Łódź, and in an architecturally wonderful building on the main ul. Piotrkowska. Tel Aviv brings a middle-eastern touch to the vegan menu (hello, hummus), showing you that mislaid preconceptions of vegan food are plain wrong. Each meal we observed, or tasted, is visually exciting, and of course, work well on the taste buds, as do the drinks (alcoholic options are available)! Seasonal menus are on offer, changing with time, and new concepts, although we have to mention the main ‘Anti-Trump BLT sandwich’ we had, which, in their own words, is their vegan take on what appears ‘a seemingly American sandwich, but with a leftist twist’. Make Łódź great again, that’s what we think!QK‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 122, tel. (+48) 42 208 09 79, www.telaviv.pl/lodz. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:00-01:00; Sat 10:00-01:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. €. T­U­B­6­W

POLISH CHŁOPSKA IZBA The peculiar interior of animal skins, bear traps, and clay walls plays host to an authentic and seriously good Polish meal. The staff are some of the most attentive and professional that you’d find in the city and seemingly proud of the food they lay on the table - as well they should be.

Get the mixed plate of pierogi and beef steak - treat it almost like Polish tapas. If that’s too small, definitely choose the challenging pork knuckles or their sets, starting from 20zł. For a bigger mental challenge, go for ‘czernina’ (duck blood soup!). The staff will help you choose, and I guarantee you’ll have an authentic taste of good Polish food. Bring pregnancy pants though.QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 65, tel. (+48) 42 630 80 87. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. B­6­W FATAMORGANA NEW Fatamorgana’s blob on the culinary radar of Łódź has been increasing in size since it opened in 2017. Two young chefs work their magic in the kitchen, with cuisine being a modern mix of French and Polish dishes. The menu changes regularly, depending on the artistic flare and lodz.inyourpocket.com 59

Restaurants moods of the chefs, so we’d rather not propose a specific dish, only for you to discover it’s no longer available, woops!

Regardless, there are usually some tasty soups, meat and fish dishes available. One word of warning, the menu is in Polish, however, the staff do a good job of describing the dishes on offer. Enjoy the stripped back, raw interior (this was once part of the mighty Księży Młyn (p.27) factory complex).QO‑14, ul. Księży Młyn 16, tel. (+48) 880 83 25 09. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 14:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-19:00; closed Mon. €€. T­B­6­W

MODERN MEXICAN-AMERICAN RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

KARCZMA U CHOCHOŁA Lots of primitive wooden benches, animal skins on the walls, miscellaneous rustic crudities and a tiled floor create the right atmosphere for perhaps the best national restaurant in the city. The service is friendly and the food, including dinky bowls of smalec, large hunks of bread, venison, wild boar and a selection of traditional 17thcentury puddings, is top notch. In fact, it’s such a shock to the senses that it comes as quite a surprise when you leave to realise you’re actually in Poland at all. Whereas so many folklore-themed hunters’ restaurants fail to deliver beyond the decoration, Karczma u Chochoła have bothered to get the whole thing right.QK‑14, ul. Piotrkowska 200, tel. (+48) 42 637 09 19, www.uchochola.pl. Open 12:0023:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€€. T­W LEPIONE & PIECZONE We’ve written about Polish food on many occasions here at IYP - it’s hearty stuff, full of meat and veg! We love it. One of our all time favourites have to be pierogi, the typically Polish dumplings, filled with anything from meat, cabbage, cheese or sweet stuff! Lepione & Pieczone (Formed & Baked), brought to you by the the Polish restaurant chain Chłopskie Jadło, is a simple but great idea - choose your pierogi filling, and importantly, choose how you want it done, whether it’s boiled or baked, or both boiled and baked! Delicious. Salads and soups are also on offer, should pierogi alone not fill your tasty spot!

The prices are relatively cheap and you can expect to pay anything between 12-35zł.QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 89, tel. (+48) 725 10 03 20. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 10:0024:00. €. T­B­6 PIWNICA ŁÓDZKA A quick disclaimer for anyone wishing to visit Piwnica Łódzka - ‘piwnica’ in Polish means ‘basement’, which is precisely where this restaurant is located, not far from Piotrkowska street. There is no lift so you must deal with the spiral stairs to get in. Once in, you find quite a snug restaurant, dealing with foods unique to both Łódź and Poland. The staff are pleasant and knowledgeable, so don’t be afraid to ask for help in choosing a regional dish - we recommend the hearty favourite meat broth and a choice of various pierogi. We love pierogi, but these flavours were a first for us and they were delightful!QK‑12, ul. Sienkiewicza 67, tel. (+48) 42 207 33 30, www. restauracja-piwnicalodzka.pl. Open 13:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-18:00; closed Mon. €€. T­W

60 Łódź In Your Pocket

Restaurants PIWNICA SMAKÓW Enter amongst the rather curious honey and beekeeping equipment shop into this American diner-esque restaurant with ceiling fans and chequerboard flooring to boot.

The diner atmosphere was reinforced even more by the large group of American students chattering away in the corner. The concept is simple; offer up a range of tasty, well presented Polish lunch dishes, burgers, pastas and beers at unbelievably low prices (16zł lunch specials!) close to University-land and watch the students flood in! All in all, excellent quality for the price but possibly best avoided if you are over 22 and don’t wear converse sneakers and oversized knitted hats.QM‑10, ul. Narutowicza 59, tel. (+48) 603 71 47 98, www.piwnicasmakow.strefa.pl.

Open 10:00-20:00; closed Sun. €€. 6­W POWIDOK NEW Łódź’s industrial beginnings, and later success, was once steeped in the city’s make-up being a diverse melting pot of cultures. Those days of industrialisation may be gone, but Łódź’s revitalisation continues, so in this respect, it’s fantastic to eat in a place with dishes that are a modern mix of European and Polish cuisine. Found on Plac Wolności, the gateway that welcomes you to/ from the main ul. Piotrkowska, Powidok is a welcoming and elegant place, a mix between an art gallery and a restaurant. The work in the open kitchen is as nice to look at as the artwork and interior design - and the food too, which feels almost wrong to destory with a fork.

Lunch is available 12:30-16:30, and the soups, mains and dessersts, are delightful, but we suggest trying the 6 (149zł) or 8 (189zł) option tasting menus (available ThuSat after 17:00). Recommended.QJ‑8, ul. plac Wolności 8, tel. (+48) 530 25 55 55, www.powidok.lodz.pl. Open 09:30-21:00; Fri 09:30-23:00; Sat 10:30-23:00; Sun 10:30-20:00.

VEGAN TAKŻETEGO If you’re in the vicinity of Sienkiewicz Park looking for a spot to chill out, away from the bustle of ul. Piotrkowska, and would like to find some good healthy eatin’, look no further than Takżetego (roughly translated as ‘also this’), full of vegetarian breakfasts, and wide selection of ever changing vegan dishes. We’re glad to say that such establishments are really punching through misconceptions of what vegan food is really like. On the day we visited, we had a delightful crepes with a Mexican style salsa filling along with red beans. The fresh fruit cocktail mixes are great, but our choice wasn’t on the board, but worry not, the friendly staff were happy to make it for us. Their speciality dish is the burger with jackfruit, which may sound odd, but...but...just go taste it! Mon-Fri they have lunch deals for 19zł (soup, main & salad) and Sunday brunches you pay 35zł for all you can eat. Challenge accepted.QK‑12, ul. Sienkiewicza 40, tel. (+48) 881 31 59 10. Open 08:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 08:0021:00; Sun 08:00-18:00. €. T­6­W lodz.inyourpocket.com 61

Poland’s national drink has many exciting variations for you to try… | © Fabrizio Sciami

4 Polish Alcohols You Have to Try …plus several others that also work…

62 Łódź In Your Pocket

Polish Alcohol VODKA TRANSLATOR Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world, many of which date back centuries. The most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere, Chopin, Luksusowa, Ostoya, Pan Tadeusz and Wyborowa, all of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop.

1. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA

Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. Though it comes in a variety of flavours, the original orange label (‘tradycyny’) is an aged, amber-coloured liquor flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa has a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything you’re likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, we prefer it on ice.

2. ŻUBRÓWKA

One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka - also known as Bison Grass Vodka - has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century.

Flavoured with a type of grass specific to the primeval Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste which has been described as ‘floral’ or having traces of almond or vanilla.

Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka’ or ‘szarlotka’ depending where you are.

3. KRUPNIK

Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet liquor made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking booze doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added.

4. MIÓD PITNY

Mead, or ‘drinkable honey,’ preceded beer’s arrival in Poland and has remained a favourite since the Middle Ages. Since 2008, Polish meads have been protected under EU law as a traditional regional specialty. Distilled from honey, the drink is extremely easy to consume and comes in four strengths with Połtorak being the strongest (15-18%).

While clear vodkas are generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mixing in cocktails, the real fun is in sampling Poland’s flavoured vodkas and nalewki - a more general term applied to a large range of Polish liqueurs and aged tinctures made from vodka or neutral spirits and fruits, herbs and spices. Vodka shot & snack bars like Pijalnia Wódki on ul. Piotrkowska 79 and 92 (J-11) are great places to try. Here are just some of the notable varieties you can find at the bar or shop.

Wiśniówka - cherry vodka Cytrynówka - lemon vodka Pigwówka - quince vodka Orzechówka - walnut vodka Piołunówka - wormwood liquor Wódka figowa - fig vodka Wódka śliwkowa - plum vodka Wódka gruszkowa - pear vodka

ŁÓDŹ’S BEER GARDENS Polish winters, for as much as they can be picturesque, also have a tendency to be bleak. But chin up, for once the fiery ball in the sky returns, the locals fill up the beer gardens, and most venues in the city spill outside. There are tonnes of places to enjoy some outdoor sipping, but luckily for you, we have some recommendations.

If you’re only in Łódź for a short visit, don’t worry, everything is within walking distance or even a short rickshaw or bike ride away. The magnet that draws all tourists, the main thoroughfare of ul. Piotrkowska (p.20-25) is crammed full of cafes (p.46), bars (p.64) and restaurants (p.50), all of which take full advantage of Mr. Sun’s appearance, setting the mood and style of the street, where you can sit back, relax and watch as the world goes by. You set your own pace as you have the perfect choice of places to have tea, coffee, lemonade, beer, cocktails or even shots! Still sticking to the main street, you are in the direct vicinity of the perfect OFF Piotrkowska (p.22) and Piotrkowska 217 (p.24), both of which liven up with outdoor seating venues and food trucks. Going slightly north of Piotrkowska, Manufaktura’s (p.40) main square fills up with near limitless beer gardens for you to choose from You’re spoiled for choice and there’s always somewhere in Łódź for you to sip on the summer nectar. lodz.inyourpocket.com 63

Nightlife

Rare doesn’t cut it (pardon the pun) in the Barber Shop (p.23). Get a haircut here by day and a cocktail by night - in the same place!

Łódź’s commitment to hedonism is on a par with Poland’s capital. For the unadventurous a straight-forward pub crawl down ulica Piotrkowska is the way to go, though stand advised some of the best drinking dens in town are found squirrelled away in the back streets and side alleys.

Follow your nose.

During the warmer months the streets, particularly Piotrkowska, are thronged with beer gardens. Once the chillier weather starts to move in the party shifts back inside and downstairs. For the most part you’ll be paying no more than 10zł for a large beer, and bear in mind that the opening hours we list are flexible: most bars will stay open as long as drinkers are drinking. Clubs often charge an entry fee, many of which are based on what’s on offer that night.

Here are a few ideas depending on what you are looking for: SPLURGE Swig cocktails in a chilled out and elegant setting at Golden Bar (p.65), one of the nicer places to go, despite it being located in a hotel, or visit Kokoo (p.67) for true top shelf VIP treatment!

LADS You’re on holiday but you just cannot forget about the game, huh? Don’t worry, you’ll have plenty of places to see sports on TV in Łódź. A decent sized place to go is the Irish Pub (p.55) which has a true pub atmosphere plus the delicious food from the dining room will keep you on your feet a wee bit longer. For some, ahem, adult entertainment, Magnes (p.67) is the best venue!

64 Łódź In Your Pocket

COUPLES A big vote for Cafe Bar Poczekalnia (p.65) for a choice of rooms and quiet spaces to talk, yet also with the option to sit amongst people in a friendly atmosphere. Couples that like to be fussed over should check out Dwa Przez Cztery (p.66) to try out some fine wines and nibbles to go.

LOCAL One of our favorite local haunts, Z Innej Beczki (p.66) is your best bet for local micro-brews as well as the finer pints from Czech, Belgium and beyond. And Owoce i Warzywa Klubokawiarnia (p.47) is the best haunt around to rub shoulders with the eccentric side of Łódź’s bohemian undergound.

OFF THE WALL Łódź has no shortage of curious locales. Lordi’s (p.67) is a legend, and the madness is hard to imagine until you experience it. Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa (p.63) serves up some cheap shots from an extensive list from classic to experimentative. For an alternative bar, head to P29 (p.66).

ALL NIGHTER If you’re still roaming the streets past your bedtime and still looking for some action, head back to Kokoo (p.67) for long hours of electro and clubhouse mixes. If you’re looking to go to the place to be seen in the wee small hours, Lordi’s (p.67) is your best bet. VIP rooms with champagne help you stumble out into the sunrise hours...

Nightlife BARS & PUBS 6. DZIELNICA Although we were a bit late to the party, this might be our favourite bar of 2016. Enter the door found in the gate to the right at Piotrkowska street’s most notorious address.

Climb three flights of stairs to find good vibes and great beer. There are two bars, a stage and plenty of eclectic tables and chairs spread out over six or so rooms of what looks like a large high ceilinged apartment. This hotbed of alternative culture hosts regular concerts, exhibitions, interesting debates and much more. If all of that wasn’t enough it is also the perfect place to plugin your laptop, grab a coffee and do some co-working during the day.

QK‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 102, www.szostadzielnica.pl.

Open 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-03:00; closed Mon, Sun. B­E­W CAFE BAR POCZEKALNIA A great name for that thing a lot of us do in life - wait.

Waiting doesn’t have to be boring, as Poczekalnia (Waiting Room) proves. Situated in the northern end of town, not far from Piotrkowska street, this is very much an artsy cafe-bar to chill out in. As is the area it’s located - a stone’s throw away from the New Theatre, right next to a dance school and also the Ferment Music School.

You can find yourself waiting for a show, waiting on someone to finish dance class, or finding an excuse to wait for...time to fly by. Any excuse is good enough to come here as a lot takes place from karaoke, gigs, jam sessions to poetry nights. You need not be bored in Poczekalnia.QJ‑10, ul. Więckowskiego 16, tel. (+48) 602 49 13 50. Open 15:00-23:00; Mon 16:00-23:00; Fri 15:00-02:00; Sat 16:00-02:00; Sun 16:00-22:00.

T­B­E­6­W GOLDEN BAR As far as hotel bars go, this one’s a cracker. The list of alcohols on offer is exceptional, probably more choice than in Oliver Reed’s drinks cabinet! The whisky/whiskey list alone comprises over 130 different bottles, including some special offerings such as the Ardbeg Corryvreckan – a true peaty monster of a malt. The cocktails feature classic and signature concoctions to satisfy every craving. Topping it all off, there’s a great list of American and Asian dishes to choose from, everything from snacks to mains. The efficient, amiable staff are extremely attentive creating a thoroughly relaxing ambience. We’ll leave the last word to a foreign businessman we chatted to before we headed off into the night, “Why bother going anywhere else?”QH‑14, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 208 80 38, www.doubletreelodz.pl. Open 11:00-02:00; Sat, Sun 16:00-02:00. U­W

Where’s the party? facebook.com/LodzInYourPocket lodz.inyourpocket.com 65

Nightlife P29 ‘Impressive’ pretty much sums up our feelings for this place.

What looks like an unassuming gate entrance (the best places always have this, huh?) is an open-air courtyard, where ‘sparse’ likewise defines this place, but that’s the best bit about it. A large tarpaulin covers the majority of the area which only consists of a small bar and seating area. Stairs lead up to a table where a DJ plays house music that works perfectly with the acoustics of the courtyard. The far corner building is reminiscent of a tower, looking damn cool with each window lit up. You’d be forgiven for thinking Rapunzel was at the top bopping around to the beats below.QJ‑10, ul. Piotrkowska 29 (entrance from Więckowskiego). Open Thu 18:00-02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00-04:00, Sun 18:00-01:00 only.

CRAFT BEER BARS PIWOTEKA NARODOWA Run by the same folks who operate the specialty beer store down the street, Piwoteka Narodowa is where serious beer drinkers set up shop. The interior is dark and very man-cave: think beer paraphernalia on the walls and jumbled tables of drinkers. The bar itself is what will illicit immediate awe: bottle upon bottle of the best Europe has to offer, from Czech to Belgium and Polish to USA and German – all that separates you is a bottle opener.QJ‑11, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 42 679 69 10, www.piwotekanarodowa.pl. Open 14:00-24:00. B­W Z INNEJ BECZKI There ought to be a law stating that all beer aficionados MUST visit this fantastic bar! Not only does it serve up a great selection of ever-changing Polish and international craft beers from 13 beer taps (and one tap with kvass!), it’s also one of the most stunning venues to sip brews in the city. Situated in the lower level of the famous Meyer Villa (1887), the bar is entered via the beautiful multi-levelled sunken garden area and the design has taken its influences from classic bars of the 1920’s-50’s. The also make great coffees and have delicious sandwiches and light fare plus they have an exhibition space. From another barrel indeed!QK‑11, ul. Moniuszki 6, tel. (+48) 720 13 13 13. Open 15:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 15:00-02:00. W

WINE BARS DWA PRZEZ CZTERY WINE BAR This compact, store-front, open-shelved wine bar might throw you at first, but bite the bullet and just walk right in.

You’ll immediately be met by their smiling sommeliers who will quickly get settled at one of the six tables. Whether flying solo, on a date or in a group, expect quick table service and a painless survey of your favourite flavours, profiles, grapes and regions which will ensure you end up with the perfect personalised glass or bottle from their estimable collection.

They also offer minimal cheese, olive and hummus type tapas if you get peckish while pondering your next oenophile exploration. Look up at all the bottles and labels on the shelves and maybe take one home for yourselves!QK‑13, ul.

Roosevelta 2/4, tel. (+48) 662 44 00 80. Open 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-19:00; closed Mon. 6­W 66 Łódź In Your Pocket

Nightlife

LORDI’S CLUB & FOO FOO BAR Since 2010 Lordi’s has made a name for itself amongst students, tourists, expats, locals, Poles, visitors, as the place to go to have a night out. With a huge following and a guaranteed full club come Thu, Fri and Sat nights it is the place to be with the most of the most. With a separate VIP room up the metal stairs (Foo Foo), Lordi’s is the biggest club in the city and has hosted a number of International DJ’s/performers and Polish homegrown celebrities. You won’t find hipsters here, nor will you find anyone interested in good conversation - this a place to go crazy, let loose and enjoy a night in Łódź that only Lordi’s can deliver.QK‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 102, tel. (+48) 662 36 63 66, www. lordisclub.com. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00-06:00 only. X

M

N OPE

KOKOO It’s bling heaven in Kokoo, an upmarket dance arena that’s filled a niche following the death of Coffees and Toffees. Dress to impress if you want entry before proceeding to shimmy and sashay with local fashion fatalities. If you don’t fancy knocking elbows and knockers with the hoi polloi then sneak a place in one of the side rooms. The DJ gods play electro, funk, chart hits and deep house on Fridays and Saturday on the multiple dance floors.QK‑11, ul. Moniuszki 1, tel. (+48) 695 34 66 55, www.klubkokoo.pl. Open Fri, Sat 22:00-06:00 only. X

Y-SA MONDA TURDAY, 9 PM -4A

CLUBS

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT MAGNES Since IYP first arrived in Łódź, this has been the sauciest night out in town, and remains just that, with a cracking line-up of girls doing their bit for international relations by dropping their knickers in next to no time at all. The shows here are frank and to the point, and if you can’t spring for a private dance then the bartop shows are equally revealing.

All this inside a typical strip club atmosphere, with plenty of chrome poles and neon slashes, plus a 30zł entrance fee.

QJ‑8, ul. Zachodnia 44, tel. (+48) 507 00 96 03, www. magnesklub.pl. Open 21:00-04:00; closed Sun. X­W

LIVE MUSIC WYTWÓRNIA CLUB Klub Wytwórnia is one of Łódż’s biggest music and culture venue, with culture credentials going back to the location’s previous role as the site of a major film producer, hence its name, Wytwórnia (Studio), coming from the previous name ‘Wytwórnia Filmów Fabularnych’. But that was then, this is now, and since 2007, Wytwórnia has been hosting over 100 events each year, making it a fantastic venue to attend for various concerts, exhibitions, festivals etc. Wytwórnia is not open every week, only when events take place, therefore, it’s best you check their site for upcoming events and ticket buying options.QH‑14, ul. Łąkowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 639 55 55, www.wytwornia.pl.

Łódź, ul. Zachodnia 44 www.magnesklub.pl (+48) 507 009 603 facebook.com/klubmagnes lodz.inyourpocket.com 67

Activities & Leisure

With shows so vivid, you can almost touch the stars in EC1’s Planetarium (p.29).

With a modern water park, new indoor arena and of course the entertainment and leisure centre incorporated within Manufaktura, Łódź can offer a range of ideas on how to spend your time. And don’t forget that this is one of Poland’s greenest cities, with over 30 parks within the city limits. Łagiewnicki Forest offers a whole range of outdoor possibilities throughout the year.

BIKE RENTAL NEXTBIKE CITY BIKES Poland’s biggest public city bike provider is now firmly rooted in Łódź and with two branches no less, consisting of 152 stations and over 1,534 bikes, including 10 family bikes as part of ‘Łódzki Rower Publiczny’ and a further 14 stations and 130 bikes of ‘Rowerowe Łódzkie’. It’s easy and fast to register and you can do it right at the big blue/red digital terminal, online or by calling the infoline below.

The initial top up fee for using the bike service is 20zł and the minimum amount you need on your account to hire a bike is 10zł. The great news is that the first 20 mins of any rental are free and most stations in the city centre are a 3-4 minute ride of each other. After 20 mins the pricing looks like this: 21-60mins - 1 zł; second hour: 3zł; third hour and every hour after: 5zł. Bikes are available 24/7 for rental from April through November. Each bike station is marked by a pin [symbol] on our maps at the back of this guide.Qtel. (+48) 42 620 00 00, www.lodzkirowerpubliczny.pl.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 68 Łódź In Your Pocket

BOWLING & BILLIARDS KRÓL KUL This is for all ye Lebowskis out there both big and small.

24 premium modern bowling lanes (max 8 bowlers per lane) with top of the line digital scoring and pin setting technology. They also have two billiards tables (20zł/h Mon-Thu and 25zł/h Fri-Sun) and a fully stocked bar that serves up great drinks and hearty snacks to help keep you keep rolling along. This is one of the most modern bowling alleys in all of Europe so don’t hesitate dudes and dudettes, go throw some stones!QI‑16, Al. Politechniki 1 (CH Sukcesja), tel. (+48) 600 69 07 30, www.krolkul.pl. Open 10:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 10:0001:00. 49-99zł per lane (depends on the day and time of day). Price of shoe rental included.

CINEMAS CHARLIE Not into mainstream cinema? Check out Kino Charlie, home of artsy movies shown in two halls fitted with Dolby Stereo. For those waiting for their screening, a cafe is on sight and a gallery to check out the works of young artists.

QK‑15, ul. Piotrkowska 203/205, tel. (+48) 42 636 00 92, www.charlie.pl. Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 13-26zł.

MULTIKINO ŁÓDŹ QK‑13, Al. Piłsudskiego 5, tel. (+48) 42 232 72 10, www.multikino.pl. Box office open from 30 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 19-28zł.

Activities & Leisure HELIOS ŁÓDŹ SUKCESJA Part of the Polish Helios fleet, they offer the highest class Cineplex in town with state of the art sight and sound.

Not only do they screen the latest main stream hollywood flicks, but they also regularly show independent films from all over the world and host the occasional cultural event as well. ‘Cheap Tuesdays’ offer tickets for just 14.50zł.QI‑16, Al. Politechniki 1, tel. (+48) 42 299 92 72, www.helios.pl. Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 19-29zł.

by the Nazis. The north-west part of the forest houses an 18th century Franciscan monastery, primarily known for its painting of St. Anthony, which is claimed to have healing properties. The southern entry point contains the Arturówek Recreation Complex (P.8), which is a conglomeration of snack shacks, beer gardens, campgrounds, bungalows, ropes course, several hotels, normal and water play parks for kids, kayak and waterbike rentals, and most fun of all, there is even a beach with a swimming area!

FITNESS & GYMS

ZOO Established in 1938 the local zoo features 2,500 animals (350 species), including giraffes, lions, tigers and reptiles and scores of other captivating (-ed) creatures. The zoo features the spectacle of being able to watch animal feeding times!

In the last few years the zoo has undergone modernisation and this will culminate in 2020 with the super-modern and gigantic orientarium, featuring animals and fauna from Asia.

QC‑13, ul. Konstantynowska 8/10, tel. (+48) 42 639 11 88, www.zoo.lodz.pl. Open 09:00-15:30. From May open 09:00-19:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Until 21 March admission 15/8zł, family ticket 35zł. From 22 March onward 20/12 zł, family ticket 48 zł.

STACJA NOWA GDYNIA This is far and away the best fitness complex in the region, and not unlike a UK country club. A recent renovation takes it up another notch, making it even more modern with the eGYM integrated training system. Facilities as follows: four bowling lanes, four badminton courts, two squash courts, an air-conditioned gym, spa and aerobics classes. English-speaking instructors are available on request. Across a connecting wooden bridge find the swimming complex which is made up of three pools: children’s pool, recreational pool featuring water slide and a 25m six lane pool for the more serious swimmer. Two cafeterias, a sauna and a steam room are also there to use.

A full price list can be found on their English language web page. The entire complex is open 06:00 - 23:00; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00.Qul. Sosnowa 1, Zgierz, tel. (+48) 42 714 21 21, www.stacjanowagdynia.pl.

INDOOR ATTRACTIONS SALTOS TRAMPOLINE PARK Not one, not two, not three, but sixty trampolines are here to throw yourself around like a [well behaved] maniac! There is of course a more civilised approach to the madness in the form of acrobatic classes, but all in all, this is a fantastic place for family groups, or even just adults. Hop bounce hoppedy hop. There is also a ‘relaxation zone’ for any parents who are not too keen to join in on the madness, choosing instead to enjoy a coffee and/or ice-cream. Tip: Buying your tickets online, whether attending during the week or weekends is 5zł cheaper than buying on-site.Qul. Wydawnicza 5, tel. (+48) 796 35 77 50, www.saltos.pl. Open 10:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-21:00. Mon-Fri online 23zł, 28zł on-site, Sat-Sun 28zł online and 33zł on-site.

OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS ŁAGIEWNICKI FOREST Walking around downtown Łódź you would never guess that Europe’s largest urban park can be found north of the city. The name of the forest is directly related to an 11th century settlement of the same name. Occupying an area of 1,250 hectares the forest features countless walking and cycling trails, 542 different plants and 101 types of tree, predominantly oak, spruce and birch. The forest was used as a base for insurgents during the 1863 uprising against Imperial Russia, while WWII saw it double as site of mass execution

SPA & BEAUTY SPA & HEALTH CLUB IN DOUBLETREE BY HILTON ŁÓDŹ Traipsing the streets of Łódź or navigating the vast Manufaktura with dozens of shopping bags is an exhausting business, so a visit to the Double Tree 10th Floor Spa & Health Club is the ideal solution to restore mind, body and spirit. The Spa offers a full range of body treatments, massages and relaxing rituals. So, go ahead and pamper yourself in this stunningly equipped and ultra-modern Spa & Health Club with a fitness center open 24hrs and a swimming pool open daily 06:0022:00. The self-operated sauna is available 16:00-22:00, or earlier by prior arrangement.QH‑14, ul. Łąkowa 29 (DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź Hotel), tel. (+48) 42 208 80 07, www.doubletreelodz.pl. The SPA is open everyday 09:00-21:00 (but you must book body treatments or massages in advance).

SWIMMING AQUAPARK FALA Boasting 4 indoor pools with several slides and one with a wave machine, including a pool for the kids and three water playgrounds. There are also 8 saunas (ranging from Finnish with music therapy to crystal steam baths and open from 11:00 on Sat, 09:00 on Sun), 6 large Jacuzzis, heated loungers, 6 indoor water slides, a ‘wild river’ ride and an on site restaurant to keep you entertained.

QD‑12, Al. Unii Lubelskiej 4, tel. (+48) 42 640 08 00, www.aquapark.lodz.pl. Open 07:00-22:00; Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00-22:00. Prices are varied depending on dates and times. Find out more at their website at www.aquapark.lodz.pl/tickets.php. lodz.inyourpocket.com 69

Shopping

The most Polish of gifts can be found right in the city centre in Folkstar (p.74).

Shopping in Łódź centres on three main areas of the city: the thoroughfare of Piotrkowska, the modern shopping centre Galeria Łódzka (p.74), and the shopping heaven that is the Manufaktura complex (p.40). Some of the streets running parallel to Piotrkowska, including ul. Sienkiewicza, are good for specialist shops, such as antiques and paintings. Indeed, whisper it in Warsaw, but Łódź may in fact be Poland’s top shopping destination. Whether it’s malls, designer boutiques, dusty family stores or antique markets, a day spent shopping can result in both bargains and treasures, and there’s presents to be had for everyone on your list (including yourself ). For more local gift ideas and direct buying opportunities head online to the Poland IYP Shop: iyp.me/polandshop.

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but since March 2018 new regulations that will eventually ban Sunday trading in Poland entirely have gone into effect. As of 2019, trade is only be allowed on the last Sunday of each month.

There are only a few exemptions to the rule, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets and souvenir shops (oh, thank god). Note that the Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep only on those Sundays when trade is allowed.

The following is a list of Sundays when shops are allowed to be open: May 26 | June 30 | July 28 | Aug. 25 | Sept. 29 70 Łódź In Your Pocket

ALCOHOL Of course you didn’t come to Poland just for the booze, but while you’re here it’d be rude not to check out what the country has to offer. Primarily that means vodka, with the two most highly regarded clear Polish vodkas being Belvedere and Chopin. Find them in any alcohol store.

Others to watch for include Żubrówka - that’s the one with the blade of bison grass inside - krupnik, a sweet honey vodka, and wiśniówka, a sickly sweet cherry drink usually consumed after meals. Finally, check Goldwasser, a unique elixir characterized by the 22 karat gold flakes floating in it.

KLUB WINO Half store, half wine bar, Klub Wino will easily appeal to wine connoisseurs who like to buy as well as taste. The store features bottles from around the world, including a small section of Polish wines.QK‑15, ul. Piotrkowska 217, tel. (+48) 786 19 73 00, www.klubwino.pl. Open 12:0021:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00.

PIWOTEKA SHOP You’ve probably been in bathroom stalls larger than this shop, but that’s not what will grab your attention. Piwoteka is floorto-ceiling beer (with 15 taps, no less) the kinds you can’t and don’t find in the local pub (we imagine ‘Tyskie’ is a dirty word here). We’ve actually seen huddles of young men staring longingly through the window. Take it further and go inside, where you can’t turn around but you can learn a lot about the world’s best beer from the knowledgeable owner (make sure to stop by their fantastic pub and tasting room next door as well).QJ‑11, ul. 6 Sierpnia 1/3, tel. (+48) 730 35 67 06, www.piwoteka.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; closed Sun.

Shopping AMBER & JEWELLERY Vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland.

Poland is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse. The best place to begin is in any of the jewellery stores found in Manufaktura, though you’ll find Piotrkowska offering numerous opportunities as well.

A&A DOM JUBILERSKI One look in A&A’s window and you’ll be blinded by the bling on display; anything picked up here will easily draw attention, with plenty of unique designs to choose from.

QK‑13, ul. Piotrkowska 146, tel. (+48) 42 636 74 18, www.domjubilerski.aia.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:0015:00; closed Sun. CRYSTAL FASHION The owner has 18 years of experience and training working with the world renowned Austrian Kings of Bling, Swarovski.

As well as a fabulous range of jewellery and items produced in their onsite workshop, using Swarovski components and their own range of sparkling crystal, they also stock jewellery and accessories from designers such as Murano and cult Dutch design team Buddha to Buddha. Crystal Fashion also undertakes commission work, irrespective of how bizarre or complex your idea may be, and they have encrusted cars, snooker cues and even a vacuum cleaner. Lighting, including chandeliers, are another speciality of theirs.

Not just a store for the super-rich, many of the workshop pieces are very reasonably priced and you can even come away with a Swarovski topped pencil for an amazing 12zł!QK‑16, ul. Piotrkowska 270, tel. (+48) 42 648 05 60, www.crystalfashion.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. LILOU Phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components and create a unique and personal piece. The range continues to grow, with the original idea of the personalised bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes - hearts, dogs, cats and the likes, and then have it hand engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you. A ‘must have’ item local celebs and fashionistas and the perfect personalised gift for that special someone. Make sure to stop by their new location in the Manufaktura shopping mall.QJ‑9, ul. Piotrkowska 18, tel. (+48) 797 33 43 36, www.lilou.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-15:00.

W. KRUK Polish jewellery, amber and watches from various international brand names all worth a browse. Also at G ​ aleria Łódzka (L-13/14), Galeria Sukcesja (I-16), Guliwer and CH Port.QI‑8, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 661 98 05 73, www.wkruk.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:30; Sun 10:00-21:00. lodz.inyourpocket.com 71

Shopping YES Yes jewellery stores can be found throughout Poland, and will impress with their array of accessible (Pandora) and classic (Polish amber) options. Keep an eye out for unique Polish designers.QH‑8, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 617 37 27, www.yes.pl.

Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

ART & ANTIQUES A walk along the side streets off Piotrkowska is usually enough to fulfil antiquarian designs, especially if you like to sift through dusty shops filled with overlooked treasures. If you’re planning on taking an artwork out of the country, and it was produced prior to 1945, you will need authorisation to permit you to do so. Most shops will be able to provide you with this straight off the bat, but do check beforehand.

GALERIA ARS NOVA A popular gallery devoted to promoting young Polish artists.QJ‑7, ul. Zgierska 4, tel. (+48) 504 02 32 42, www.arsnovagallery.eu. Open 12:00-18:00; Sat 12:0015:00; closed Sun.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES Each year in October and April Polish Fashion Week takes over Lodz as the country’s most stylish citizens descend on this historic manufacturing city to find out what’s hot (and what’s not). Surprised? Unassuming Lodz doesn’t seem like the kind of place you’d find a catwalk, let alone hordes of fashionistas clamouring for the latest trends. Yet the city prides itself on being the country’s fashion capital, and tourists can find plenty of stylish stores and boutiques peddling designs straight from the runway.

BLOOM BOUTIQUE Stand out from the masses by visiting Bloom Boutique.

Specialising in womenswear, bags and accessories by some of Poland’s top fashion designers (est by Black Bow, Confesion, EST by s, 10 DECOART, Vivitt, Acephala, Messo and Gepetto Polska) this is THE place to find short-run collections from the likes of Marita Bobko and Magda Hasiak and award winning local designer Maria Wiatrowska. The regularly changing stock features pieces for a variety of occasions; casual, avant garde, business and evening wear. Come in and chat with the owner, Beata Andrzejczak (who speaks English and Italian), about the designers represented in the boutique. Apart from the local buzz surrounding her unique Łódź store, she has built up a following of return customers from around Europe and the U.S.A.QK‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 107, tel. (+48) 506 08 47 93. Open 11:00-19:00; Fri 11:0020:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed Sun.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 72 Łódź In Your Pocket

MOGADISHU.STORE Second-hand shops are something Łódź has in spades, though most aren’t worth braving the musty odours and messy displays to enter. Not so at Mogadishu, a store so stylish it took us several minutes to realise we were perusing used goods. Shoes, purses and clothes are all clean and modern in this airy, uncluttered space, and the display of handmade jewellery is a must-see.QJ‑9, ul. Rewolucji 1905 r. 6, tel. (+48) 698 04 53 52, www.mogadishustore.pl.

Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. TOLOOK BY KALISKA Tolook by Kaliska features unique and uber chic clothing and accessories from exclusively Polish designers. This stylish first floor boutique is the of brainchild energetic designer and stylist Justyna Kaliska. Every item on display screams originality, embraces bold colours and a big imagination. This is not fashion for the faint of heart. While most of their collection is made for women, there are a few racks for the fellas in the back plus some truly stellar socks.

Make a statement with a garment from Tolook.QK‑11, ul.

Piotrkowska 90 (1st floor), tel. (+48) 695 27 33 27, www. tolook.pl. Open 12:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-17:00; closed Sun, Mon.

FOOD & SWEETS There’s no better way to reminisce about your trip to Lodz than via the flavours of the city, and bringing home local foods and beverages doesn’t have to be a daunting idea (we’re just as averse to opening a suitcase of clothing that’s been marinated in Polish vodka as you are). Plenty of Lodz’s delicacies are easily transportable and worth the haul through customs.

E. WEDEL CHOCOLATE LOUNGE A Polish legend that’s been operating since Karol Wedel first opened a chocolate factory in 1851. Check the handmade truffles and be sure to sit for a rich chocolate drink. Also at ul. Piotrkowska 69.QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 19A, tel. (+48) 42 631 00 07, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 10:00-22:00.

KRAKOWSKI KREDENS An old-fashioned dry goods store of expensive yet exquisite Polish delicacies, including jams, honeys, liquors and even a tub of smalec for you diehard fans.QH‑8, ul.

Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 696 49 00 16, www.krakowskikredens.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

PRODUKTY BENEDYKTYŃSKIE This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey, sells such an astounding variety of products cake, cheese, jam, wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats, pierogi and juices - it raises two eyebrows over how they find the time. All the products are completely natural, without pigment, and unilaterally excellent and

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang.

Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand.

Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls.

Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry.

ŁÓDŹ, 18 Piotrkowska Street MANUFAKTURA, 58 Drewnowska Street lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

Shopping items, steeped in ethnic Polish folklore, but given a slight design makeover to add a modern twist. Even before you enter, you are bedazzled by the sheer range of colours of all the products - they definitely are eye-catching, we give them that! Not only can you buy souvenirs here, but the extensive collection of items range from household, office and fashion items! You’ll definitely find something you’ll like in here, the designs are too wonderful to pass up.QJ‑11, ul.

Piotrkowska 70, tel. (+48) 575 30 06 33, www.folkstar.pl.

Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

SHOPPING MALLS

“Just like to be the centre of attention…”

Go shopping in the middle of the city and exude chic!

make excellent gifts and can even be purchased through their (Polish only) website.QK‑14, ul. Piotrkowska 200, tel. (+48) 42 636 40 66, www.produktybenedyktynskie. com.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS Polish glass and amber are highly thought of, though if you want something clutz-proof then Polish linen, lace and woodwork all look lovely on someone else’s mantle. Folk art is an easily recognisable symbol of Poland, as is a magnet of the country’s favourite hero and saint-in-waiting Pope John Paul II. FOLKLOR Your first stop for traditional (some might say tacky) souvenirs. Amongst the tat also find traditional Polish handicrafts like table cloths, ceramics from Bolesławiec, glass etc.QJ‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 97, tel. (+48) 42 630 35 41. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00; closed Sun. 1 May - 31 Aug: 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. FOLKSTAR As far as souvenir shops go, each major Polish city has them, selling all manners of trinkets and oddities, however, Folkstar ups the game to offer tourists to Poland the chance to buy what can only be described as traditional 74 Łódź In Your Pocket

Łódź’s urban landscape, as you know, is laid out perfectly for tourists, but so to are its shopping malls, which, it seems, are strategically placed to lure you in! Ok, ok, Manufaktura (p.40) is a former factory, however, this has the northern half of the centre covered for your shopping needs, whereas head south of ul. Piotrkowska and you have Galeria Łódźka on the way to the Museum of Cinematography, and to the south-west of the centre, two more in the form of CH Sukcesja and Pasaż Łódzki, all on the way to parks in the area.

CH SUKCESJA After a few teething issues with the city’s newest shopping centre in Łódź is finally starting to take. They got rid of paid parking (the first 3 hours are free) and all of a sudden people are showing up. Also, the influx of restaurants has also helped the cause including Chude Ciacho (and the usual fast food court suspects). For shopping you have your standard H&Ms, CCCs, Media Experts, Rossmanns, Inglots and Mohitos plus a few Polish chains like Ryłko, W. Kruk, Cropp and Ziaja. They also have plenty of entertainment options with a Helios cinema, Król Kul (King Cool) Bowling, a Fit Fabric fitness club and a huge kid’s trampoline park (Stacja Grawitacja).QI‑16, Al. Politechniki 1, tel. (+48) 42 295 02 54, www.sukcesja.eu. Open 10:00-21:00.

GALERIA ŁÓDZKA Opened in 2002 Galeria Łódzka became the first modern shopping centre in the city, with some 160 retail units occupying a space of 45,000 sqm. On the fashion front consumers needs are met by stores like H&M, Sunstage, Reserved and Nervous skate shop, though those with credit cards tend to head in one direction alone: Peek & Cloppenburg and 50 Style. Other needs come catered for in the shape of Home & You and cosmetic and beauty store Apteka Super-Pharm. Food-wise there’s the standard mall mix, with all the big Yank franchises represented, as well as Hana Sushi, Sphinx, Costa Coffee, Kuchnia Marche and Berlin Döner Kebap. Ranked as Europe’s Best Shopping Centre in the 2004 ICSC Awards, GL realised their expansion plans fitting in even more stores than before. It’s within walking distance from Piotrkowska street, though car owners can choose from 1,400 parking spaces (the first 3 hours are free!).QL‑13, Al. Piłsudskiego 15/23, tel. (+48) 42 639 15 00, www.galeria-lodzka.pl. Open 09:30-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

Directory 24-HOUR SHOPS U BRONKA QL‑6, ul. Wojska Polskiego 82, tel. (+48) 42 616 07 60.

Open 06:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 06:00-02:00.

ZETKA QM‑14, ul. Kilińskiego 153, tel. (+48) 42 674 60 73.

Open 09:00-18:00.

24-HOUR PHARMACIES CITOQI‑11, ul. Żeromskiego 39, tel. (+48) 42 633 48 29, www.apteka-cito.com.pl.

24-HOUR POST OFFICE POCZTA POLSKA QF‑13, Al. Włókniarzy 227, tel. (+48) 42 634 41 34, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24-hours.

COMPUTER REPAIR AISKOMP QJ‑10, ul. Piotrkowska 35, tel. (+48) 510 70 92 80, www.aiskomp.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE KANTOR EXCHANGE GROUP QL‑13, Al. Piłsudskiego 15/23 (Galeria Łódzka), tel. (+48) 42 636 01 62. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

KANTOR EXCHANGE GROUP QH‑8, ul. Jana Karskiego 5 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 634 84 98. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat 09:00-22:30; Sun 10:00-21:00.

DENTISTS INTERSTOMQJ‑12, Al. Kościuszki 32, tel. (+48) 42 632 57 11. Open Mon, Tue, Thu 16:00-19:00 only.

INTERNET CAFES SET KOMPUTERY QH‑3, ul. Pojezierska 2/6, tel. (+48) 42 654 69 96, www.z1.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun.

LAUNDRY CZYSTA SZTUKA QJ‑15, ul. Stefanowskiego 24, tel. (+48) 609 64 83 38.

Open 10:00-16:00; closed Sun. PRALNIA PERFECT QK‑11, ul. Sienkiewicza 29, tel. (+48) 42 634 23 02, www.pralniaperfect.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat 10:0013:00; closed Sun.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following: Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997.

English, German and Russian speakers have separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: +48 608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77 (mobile or landline).

For urgent medical emergencies, use the listings below. The emergency room in PL is called SOR and should only be visited when absolutely necessary. In less urgent crises we recommend you visit a private clinic, where you‘ll get better service and avoid the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals.

CHILDREN’S EMERGENCY ROOM (SOR) QN‑6, ul. Pankiewicza 16, tel. (+48) 42 617 79 99, www.csk.umed.pl. Open 24hrs.

EMERGENCY ROOM (SOR) A large hospital located south of the city centre.

Qul. Pabianicka 62, tel. (+48) 42 689 50 00, www.kopernik.lodz.pl.

ESKULAP A private medical clinic near Łódź Kaliska train station.

QL‑11, ul. Traugutta 25, tel. (+48) 42 632 91 56, www.eskulap-lekarze.pl. Open 12:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. LOST AND FOUND OFFICE QK‑13, ul. Piotrkowska 153, tel. (​ +48) 42 638 57 34.

Open 08:00-15:00; Tue 09:00-16:00; closed Sat, Sun. MUNICIPAL POLICE HEADQUARTERS IN ŁÓDŹ The location of the Police HQ is near the main Piotrkowska Street. Crucially, if you need immediate assistance, call the English language EU-wide emergency service no. 112.QK‑11, ul. Sienkiewicza 28/30, www.lodz.policja.gov.pl.

SALVE This private medical clinic is located just off Piotrkowska.

QJ‑12, ul. Struga 3, tel. (+48) 42 633 56 61, www.salve.pl. Open 07:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-14:00; closed Sun.

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Hotels

Design meets comfort, taste and culture - all under one roof in PURO Hotel Łódź

For many years the hotel sector in Łódź didn’t reflect its position as the country’s third biggest city. While the skyscraping 5-star international brands have still yet to arrive here, the sector has seen a marked improvement in recent years with a series of new and renovated hotels opening their doors. And with the improved rooms you can expect improved service as well with English much more widely spoken and with extras such as wireless internet, spas, swimming pools and gyms now coming as standard in many places. With rates tending to fluctuate, use IYP’s booking service to see what the best offers are.

CREAM OF THE CROP DOUBLETREE BY HILTON ŁÓDŹ QH‑14, ul. Łąkowa 29, tel. (+48) 42 208 80 00, www.doubletreelodz.pl. 200 rooms (1 Presidential Apartment). P­U­L­6­K­H­C­D­F­w hhhh VIENNA HOUSE ANDEL’S LODZQI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17 (Manufaktura), tel. (+48) 42 279 10 00, www.viennahouse. com/pl/andels-lodz. 277 rooms (52 apartments). P­X­ U­L­6­K­H­C­D­F­w hhhh

UPMARKET AMBASADOR CENTRUM QL‑13, Al. Piłsudskiego 29, tel. (+48) 42 677 15 20, www.hotelambasador.pl. 143 rooms (4 apartments).

X­U­L­K­H­C­D­F hhhh BOROWIECKIQF‑10, ul. Kasprzaka 7/9, tel. (+48) 42 208 17 00, www.hotelborowiecki.pl. 56 rooms (2 apartments). P­U­L­6­K­H­F hhh 76 Łódź In Your Pocket

HOLIDAY INN LODZ QK‑15, ul. Piotrkowska 229/231, tel. (+48) 42 208 20 00, www.hilodz.com. 127 Total rooms. P­U­L­K­H­ D­F hhhh KOLUMNA PARK HOTEL & RESTAURANT Qul. Hotelowa 1 (Dobroń Przygoń), tel. (+48) 43 677 27 27, www.kolumnapark.pl. 71 rooms (4 apartments).

P­U­L­6­D hhh NOBO HOTEL Qul. Liściasta 86 / Al. Włókniarzy, tel. (+48) 42 234 14 61, www.nobohotel.pl. 26 rooms (1 apartment). P­U­L­ 6­K­H hhh NOVOTEL ŁÓDŹ CENTRUM QK‑13, Al. Piłsudskiego 11A, tel. (+48) 42 254 39 00, www.novotel.com. 161 rooms (1 apartment). P­U­L­ 6­K­H­F hhhh PURO HOTEL ŁÓDŹ QI‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 16, tel. (+48) 42 715 90 00, www. purohotel.pl/en/lodz.

P­U­6­K­H­D­F­w hhhh QUBUS HOTEL ŁÓDŹ QI‑14, Al. Mickiewicza 7, tel. (+48) 42 275 51 00, www. qubushotel.com. 78 Total rooms. P­U­L­6­K­H hhh STACJA NOWA GDYNIA Qul. Sosnowa 1, Zgierz, tel. (+48) 42 714 21 61, www. hotelnowagdynia.pl. 19 rooms (1 apartment). P­U­ L­6­K­H­C­D­F­w hhh

Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning C‑1 Map Coordinate w Wellness

C Swimming pool

F Fitness centre

H Conference facilities

K Restaurant

U Facilities for the disabled

D Sauna

L Guarded parking on site

6 Animal friendly

X Smoking rooms available

TOBACO HOTEL QG‑14, ul. Kopernika 64, tel. (+48) 42 207 07 07, www. hoteltobaco.pl. 115 Total rooms. P­U­L­6­K­H­ D­F hhh

MID-RANGE B&B HOTEL ŁÓDŹ CENTRUM QJ‑11, Al. Kościuszki 16, tel. (+48) 42 207 00 40, www. hotelbb.pl. 149 Total rooms. P­X­U­L­6­H hh BOUTIQUE HOTEL QJ‑9, ul. Rewolucji 1905r. 8, tel. (+48) 512 20 10 80, www.cfihotels.pl. 69 rooms (3 apartments). L­6­H CAMPANILE QL‑13, Al. Piłsudskiego 27, tel. (+48) 42 664 26 00, www.campanile-lodz.pl. 104 Total rooms. P­X­U­L­ 6­K­H hhh ESKULAP Qul. Paradna 46, tel. (+48) 42 272 33 00, www.hoteleskulap.com.pl. 50 rooms (4 apartments). U­L­6­ H­D hh

Shop s all thing Poland!

FOCUS QH‑13, ul. Łąkowa 23/25, tel. (+48) 42 637 12 00, www. focushotels.pl. 105 Total rooms. P­X­U­L­6­K­ H­D hhh IBIS QK‑13, Al. Piłsudskiego 11, tel. (+48) 42 638 67 00, www. ibis.com. 207 Total rooms. P­U­L­6­K­H hh INESS QH‑17, ul. Wróblewskiego 19/23, tel. (+48) 42 684 45 54, www.inesshotel.pl. 55 rooms (6 apartments). P­U­ L­6­K­H hhh

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GIFTS, CITY GUIDES, EXPERIENCES, SOUVENIRS & MORE. iyp.me/polandshop lodz.inyourpocket.com 77

Hotels POLA NEGRI One Polish name is particularly associated with the advent of film and Hollywood glamour, and that name is Pola Negri. From the 1910s-1940s Negri achieved worldwide recognition as the first European actress to be invited to Hollywood and a classic femme fatale during the golden era of films.

The beginning of Negri’s life is as dramatic as any Hollywood film: born in Lipno in central Poland as Barbara Apolonia Chałupiec, Negri was the youngest of three children and the only one to survive. Negri’s father was exiled to Siberia by the Russians for alleged revolutionary activity, which sent the young Negri and her mother to Warsaw to scrape by in poverty. After storming the Warsaw stage scene Negri’s popularity helped the actress launch a silent film career in Berlin.

The popularity of her 1919 film Madame Dubarry in the US brought down the embargo on German films in America. After several more successes in German cinema Paramount invited Negri to bring her talents to Hollywood, and her 1922 contract with the film company was the first to be signed by a European star.

Negri’s career with Paramount included films like The Spanish Dancer and Forbidden Paradise which came out right before the industry moved away from silent movies and into the “talkies.” Negri starred in the lacklustre A Woman Commands, but her song “Paradise” from the film became a hit and took Negri on a Vaudeville tour to promote the song. Negri also returned to Europe in the late 1930s to make films like Fanatisme and Mazurka, the latter of which was a favourite of Adolf Hitler. The war sent Negri back to the US, where she landed the role of high-strung opera singer Genya Smetana in the 1943 comedy Hi Diddle Diddle.

Almost as famous for her love affairs as for her screen roles, Negri counted Charlie Chaplin and Rod La Rocque among her conquests (not to mention two husbands, Count Eugeniusz Dambski and Georgian prince Serge Mdivani) but claimed Rudolph Valentino was the love of her life. The two were introduced by William Randolph Hearst and were lovers until Valentino’s death in 1926.

Negri eventually retired from Hollywood in the 1950s and moved with her oil heiress friend Margaret West to San Antonio, Texas where she lived for the remainder of her life. While Negri would occasionally reconnect with Hollywood for a film role she largely stayed out of the public eye, dying on August 1, 1987 from a bout with pneumonia. Today Negri is memorialised on the Hollywood Walk of Fame, on Poland’s Walk of Fame in Łódź and in front of Grauman’s Chinese Theatre in Los Angeles, where she was the 11th star to place her hands and footprints in cement.

78 Łódź In Your Pocket

LINAT ORCHIM DOM GOŚCINNY QK‑8, ul. Pomorska 18, tel. (+48) 42 632 46 61, www. linatorchim.pl. 21 Total rooms. L­6 MAZOWIECKI QH‑12, ul. 28 Pułku Strzelców Kaniowskich 53/57, tel. (+48) 42 637 43 33, www.hotelmazowiecki.com.

105 rooms (1 apartment). U­L­6­K­H hh REYMONT QG‑9, ul. Legionów 81, tel. (+48) 42 633 80 23, www. hotelewam.pl. 71 rooms (2 apartments). T­U­L­6­ K­H­F hhh SAVOY QK‑11, ul. Traugutta 6, tel. (+48) 609 67 45 81, www. savoy.centrumhotele.pl. 91 rooms (1 apartment).

U­6­K­H hh ŚWIATOWIT QJ‑13, Al. Kościuszki 68, tel. (+48) 609 67 47 40, www. swiatowit.centrumhotele.pl. 201 Total rooms. P­U­L­ 6­K­H hhh VILLA MASONERIA QN‑10, ul. Tramwajowa 11, tel. (+48) 723 24 87 39, www.villamasoneria.com.pl. 18 Total rooms. T­L­6 ZAJAZD RUBIN Qul. Scaleniowa 11, tel. (+48) 42 689 25 90, www. hotelrubin.pl. 11 rooms (1 apartment). L­6­K hhh

BUDGET MHOTEL Qul. Św. Teresy 111 (via ul. Szczecińska in Bałuty), tel. (+48) 42 652 99 90, www.mhotel.eu. 39 Total rooms.

6­K­H­C­D hhh PAŁAC POLONIA QL‑10, ul. Narutowicza 38, tel. (+48) 609 67 45 82, www. palac-polonia.pl. 83 Total rooms. U­6 hh TRAINING AND CONFERENCE CENTRE UNIVERSITY OF ŁÓDŹ Qul. Rogowska 26, tel. (+48) 42 659 82 11, www.csk.uni. lodz.pl. 52 Total rooms. U­L­6­K­H hhh TRAINING AND CONFERENCE CENTRE UNIVERSITY OF ŁÓDŹ QO‑9, ul. Kopcińskiego 16/18, tel. (+48) 42 635 54 90, www.csk.uni.lodz.pl. 60 Total rooms. P­L­6­K­H

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Hotels

Hotels

APARTMENTS

MID

ARCHE RESIDENCE ŁÓDŹ QO‑8, ul, Jana Matejki 11, tel. (+48) 505 12 58 45. L­6

BOU QC-4 www 4 trip

BEDROOMS QJ‑11, ul. Piotrkowska 64, tel. (+48) 730 64 64 64, www. bedrooms64.pl. 44 Total rooms. P­T

Your Home in Travel!

CITY CENTER ROOMS QJ‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 91, tel. (+48) 42 208 08 08, www. citycenterrooms.pl. 24 apartments. T­L

CUD QF-3 5 roo

GOOD TIME - HISTORICAL APARTMENT COMPLEX QK‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 120, tel. (+48) 42 207 32 32, www.good-time.com.pl. 57 apartments. T­L­6­H HOME & TRAVEL QJ‑9, ul. Piotrkowska 21, tel. (+48) 42 633 80 80, www. hometravel.pl. 19 apartments. P­L LOFT APARTSQO‑15, ul. Tymienieckiego 25C, tel. (+48) 730 25 25 25, www.loftaparts.pl. 60 apartments. L

CAM QE-6 www 104 d

FOCU 12 00 54 do

Central location - Piotrkowska Street

GRA QC-4 www 14 su

STARE KINO CINEMA RESIDENCE QK‑12, ul. Piotrkowska 120, tel. (+48) 42 207 27 27, www.cinemahotel.pl. 50 apartments. L­6­K­H

IBISQ www PH

HOSTELS

LINA QC-2 linato 23 tri

BOUTIQUE HOSTELQJ‑15, ul. Stefanowskiego 17, tel. (+48) 512 22 10 22, www.cfihotels.pl. 41 rooms (11 singles, 22 doubles, 8 triples). L­6 CYNAMON HOSTEL QK‑12, ul. Sienkiewicza 40, tel. (+48) 42 209 34 79, www.cynamonhostel.pl. 25 rooms (2 singles, 7 doubles, 2 triples, 3 quads, 2 Six-person room, 4 Eight-person room, 2 Ten-person room, 130 dorm beds). L­6­W­K

Free parking available

SAVO QC-4 savoy 33 do

FLAMINGO HOSTEL QK‑12, ul. Sienkiewicza 67, tel. (+48) 42 661 18 88, www.lodz.flamingo-hostel.com. 13 rooms (8 singles, 8 doubles, 1 quad, 1 Six-person room, 2 Eight-person room, 1 Ten-person room). 6 FRESCO HOSTEL QG‑11, ul. 6-go Sierpnia 80, tel. (+48) 508 10 82 45, www.hostelfresco.pl. L­6­W

MAZ QG-4 tel. ( com.

1 apa

Wifi and satellite TV - free of charge

MUSIC HOSTEL QJ‑5, ul. Piotrkowska 60, tel. (+48) 533 53 32 63, www. music-hostel.pl. 6 rooms (1 triple, 2 quads, 3 six-person room, 28 dorm beds). L­6 RELAX QK‑14, ul. Piotrkowska 192, tel. (+48) 510 70 56 97, www.hotelikrelax.pl.

78 Łódź In Your Pocket

ul. Piotrkowska 21 90-406 Łódź tel.: +48/42/633-80-80 fax. +48/42/633-80-10 www.hometravel.pl

ŚWIA QC-6 swiat 76 do

ZAJA QG-6 hotel 2 suit

lodz.inyourpocket.com 79

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Skwer Niemczyka ęstwa Pl. Zwyci Filemon and Museum of Bonifacy Cats Cinematography

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go Żeromskie

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Venue Index 6. Dzielnica 65 A&A Dom Jubilerski 71 Affogato 54 Ambasador Centrum 76 Anatewka 58 Angelo Ristorante 57 Aquapark Fala 69 Arche Residence Łódź 79 Arena Laser Games 44 Art Factory 24 Ato Sushi 52 Bałucki Rynek 35 Bawełna 44 B&B Hotel Łódź Centrum 77 Bedrooms 79 Bistro Korzenie 25 Bloom Boutique 72 Borowiecki 76 Boutique Hostel 79 Boutique Hotel 77 Brush Barber Shop & Cocktail Bar 23 Cafe Bar Poczekalnia 65 Cafe Magistrat 46 Campanile 77 Central Museum of Textiles in Łódź

25, 38 Centre for Science & Technology EC1

29, 38 Cesky Film Restaurant & Pub 53 Charlie 68 Chatka Ech 46 Chłopska Izba 59 CH Sukcesja 74 Church of the Assumption of Our Blessed Mary 35 Cinema City 44 City Center Rooms 79 Crystal Fashion 71 Cynamon Hostel 79 Cztery Ściany 54 Decalogue Monument 34 Delight Restaurant 44 Dętka Canal Museum 20 DOKI gastrobar 22 Dom 23 DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź 76 Dwa Przez Cztery Wine Bar 66

Dzień Dobry Caffe 46 Dzika Kaczka 55 Eskulap 77 E. Wedel Chocolate Lounge 47, 72 Experymentarium 41 Fairytale Łódź 21 Fatamorgana 59 Flamingo Hostel 79 Focus 77 Folklor 74 Folkstar 74 Four Colors 55 Fresco Hostel 79 Galeria Ars Nova 72 Galeria Łódzka 74 Galicja 44 Gastromachina Stacja 51 Golden Bar 65 Good Time - Historical Apartment Complex 79 Grand Coffee 47 Helios Łódź Sukcesja 69 Holiday Inn Lodz 76

Home & Travel 79 Hot Air Cafe 47 Ibis 77 Inappropriate Weight 36 In Centro 58 Iness 77 Irish Pub 55 Istanbul Tajmahal 54 Jewish Cemetery 34 Jewish Community Centre & Synagogue 33 Karczma u Chochoła 60 Klub Wino 70 Kokoo 67 Kolumna Park Hotel & Restaurant 76 Krakowski Kredens 72 Krewetka 58 Król Kul 68 Księży Młyn & Herbst Palace 27, 38 Łagiewnicki Forest 69 Len i Bawełna 23 Lepione & Pieczone 60 Lilou 71

Descend before you ascend in EC1’s Planetarium (p.29).

lodz.inyourpocket.com 85

Venue Index

‘Bang!’ by Etam Cru and Sat One found on al. Kościuszki 27

Linat Orchim Dom Gościnny 78 Łódź Film School 31 Łódź Tourism Organisation 38 Łódź Walk of Fame 31 Loft Aparts 79 Lordi's Club & Foo Foo Bar 67 Magnes 67 Manekin 58 Manufaktura Shopping Gallery 42 Mazowiecki 78 mHotel 78 Miska Gasto Bowls 55 Mogadishu.store 72 Multikino Łódź 68 Museum of Archaeology & Ethnography 38 Museum of Art in Łódź - ms¹ 38 Museum of Art in Łódź- ms² 38, 42 Museum of Cinematography 31, 38 Museum of Public Transport 39 Museum of the City of Łódź 38, 42

FEATURES INDEX Decoding the Menu Famous Alumni Health & Emergency Łódź's Beer Gardens Pola Negri Quick Eats Sunday Shopping Ban Tipping Tribulations Vodka Translator 86 Łódź In Your Pocket

52 31 75 63 78 58 70 51 63

Museum of the Factory 39, 42 Museum of the Tradition of Independence 39 Music Hostel 79 Nextbike City Bikes 68 NoBo Hotel 76 Novotel Łódź Centrum 76 Nowhere to Nowhere 47 Nóż 22 Old Jewish Cemetery 35 Otwarte Drzwi 57 Owoce i Warzywa Klubokawiarnia 47 P29 66 Pałac Polonia 78 Papuvege 58 Pho Shop 52 Piotrkowska 217 24 Piwnica Łódzka 60 Piwnica Smaków 61 Piwoteka Narodowa 66 Piwoteka Shop 70 Planetarium EC1 29, 39 Powidok 61 Presto 57 Produkty Benedyktyńskie 72 Przędza Coffee/Bar 47 Przerwa Catering & Design 56 PURO Hotel Łódź 76 Quale Restaurant 56 Qubus Hotel Łódź 76 Radegast Station 34 Reicher Synagogue 35

Relax 79 Restauracja u Kretschmera 56 Reymont 78 Róża's Passage 21 SALTOS Trampoline Park 69 Savoy 78 Schupo and Gestapo HQ 35 Señoritas Mexican American Restaurant & Lounge 58 Shahrazad 59 Society of Friends of Old Łódź 38 Sote 56 SPA & Health Club in DoubleTree by Hilton Łódź 69 Stacja Nowa Gdynia 69, 76 Stare Kino Cinema Residence 79 Stratosfera Climbing Centre 44 Survivors' Park 34 Światowit 78 Szpulka 44, 53 Takżetego 61 Tango Argentino Steakhouse 52 Tel Aviv 59 The Brick Coffee Factory 47 The Children of Bałuty - Memorial Murals 34 The Ghetto Bridges 35 The Red House 35 Tobaco Hotel 77 tolook by Kaliska 72 Tourist Information Point 38 Training and Conference Centre University of Łódź 78 Vienna House Andel's Lodz 76 Villa Gallery/Chimera Gallery 27, 39 Villa Masoneria 78 Wall Street BBQ 51 Whiskey in the Jar Manufaktura 44 W. Kruk 71 Wytwórnia Club 67 Yes 72 Zachodnia Street 35 Zajazd Rubin 78 Z Innej Beczki 66 Złoty Imbir 53 Zoo 69

“They are serving dishes from all over the world!”

Visit a food court at Łódzka and eat what you really like.