Poznan In Your Pocket November 2017 - February 2018

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Poznań No. 48, November 2017 - February 2018

Łazarz p.6 Christmas in Poland p.15 Old Town Square Walking Tour p.56

No. 48 - 5zł

inyourpocket.com

Contents

Poznań

Sea of light in Poznań

© Michał Małyska

Feature Łazarz

Leisure 6

Lake Malta

74 76

Arrival & Transport

12

Shopping

78

City Basics

16 18

Directory

84

Hotels

85

Basic History

What’s On 20 Cafés

26

Restaurants

28

Nightlife

46

Sightseeing Essential Poznań 55 Stary Rynek Walking Tour 56 Sightseeing 60 Ostrów Tumski 66 Citadel Park 69 Jewish Poznań 72 iyp.me/polandblog

Maps & Indexes Street Index Listings Index Features & Categories Index City Map City Centre Map

89 90 91 92 94

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App November 2017 - February 2018

3

Foreword As winter creeps up on us yet again, we find ourselves making a list of things to look forward to in the cold season, and - luckily! - there’s quite a few. Soon the Old Town Square will coming alight with festive decorations for the annual Christmas Fair (p.21), the Great Theatre will dust off Tchaikovsky (p.20), and Poznaniacs will retreat to candlelit cafes for a bit of Polish hygge.

Our definite plans include putting on some winter fat as various seasonal delicacies come our way, from white poppy seed croissants around St. Martin’s Day (p.23) to Christmas gingerbread to a generous amount of pączki (p.87) once Fat Thursday rolls around. And since staying hydrated is a must (gotta take care of that winter skin), mulled wine and hot beer (p.44) are in order; we’ll even brave November weather to venture out to the Poznań International Fair grounds (p.8) for the three-day Beer Expo (p.20). Though plummeting temperatures make us more inclined to stay in, soon enough we’ll be out near Lake Malta (p.76) ice skating and skiing on their ‘urban’ ski slope, followed by a thorough soak in the lovely Maltese Baths (p.77). In fact, we might just do a winter-long sauna and jacuzzi marathon at the city’s various spas (p.75) - why not?

We hope you also make the most of the season during your stay in Poznań. Happy exploring!

FEATURE Fancy a stroll around Poznań’s ‘parts unknown’? Head to page 6 for a walking tour of Łazarz, an often overlooked district with a splendid mix of architectural styles.

Europe’s largest publisher of locally produced city guides PRINT

Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków poznan@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com Company Office & Accounts General Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676 PR & Marketing: Juan M Sarabia, 692 362 833 Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716 Circulation 15,000 copies published 3 times per year Sales & Circulation Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager: Monika Szymanek 668 876 351 Warsaw Manager: Klaudia Briss 606 749 643 Wrocław/Poznań Manager: Agata Urbanowicz 606 749 642 Gdańsk/Łódź Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824 Editorial Writer/Editor: Janina Krzysiak; Research: Aleksandra Mańkut; Layout: Tomáš Haman; Events: Monika Boguszewska Stopka 728 879 494, Emilia Meres, Garrett Van Reed; Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket unless otherwise stated; Cover © oliwkamm, courtesy of the Poznań City Hall Copyright Notice & Editor’s Note Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

ONLINE

MOBILE

All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy

inyourpocket.com 4

Poznań In Your Pocket

iyp.me/poznan

Łazarz

Składo w

R OO Dw orco wa

dnia Zacho

hr

ic Sp

wa zo

az ag M

10

a ow yn

Cal

zna

ŁAZARZ

liera

11

0

D

150

300 m

iyp.me/poznan

E

cz

C

bo

o tteg Mo

a

Scale 1:14 000 1 cm = 140 m

Ro

M ał ec

Łukaszewicza

nic

Gra

Kolejow a

go

Kan ałow a

kie

Ma tej ki

GŁ OG OW SK A

ak a Ka spr z

B

W O

go

Rynek Łazarski

10

owa

o

ie g

B og usła wsk

A © OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.

3

Str us ia

o

cho wsk ieg

Poznań In Your Pocket

lew ski ch

G ŁO

9

Main Train Station

Vege Pizza

Wilson Park

Lod

REYM

Jaro

go

G

A SK

h

9 Nie go

2

Ber wiń skie

Lim an ow sk ie

8

Apartamenty Velvet

4

zkiego

8

Ma Main t yi Bus Station

ic sk row sio Gą

d Siemira Wy s piańs kiego

a

Avenida Poznań

5

Projekt Wilson

Klo no wi ca

7

City Park

Bagels & Friends

S E VE

Święcick ie

6

a Parkow

ra Grottge

Kossaka

ON T A

Ułańska

Wojskowa

Iłłakowiczówny

Thai Thai

1

Orzeszkowej Palm House

Kyokai Sushi Bar

Słoń

LTA

go

O Squad Whisky

Lars, Lars & Lars

E

INTERNATIONAL TRADE FAIR (MTP)

Konopnickiej

Park Jana Kasprowicza

6

Śniadeckich

U GR

KA DZ AL NW

Matejki

Zakątek

Niecała

Biała

Platinum Palace Residence

11

D

Marcelińska

9

10

C

Skry ta

EWSKIEG

8

B

Polna

PRZ YBYSZ

A

Łazarz Filled with 19th-20th century townhouses and villas in addition to several parks, Łazarz has a distinct community feel with an undercurrent grungy vibe. Though it might at first feel largely residential, the district is home to many of Poznań’s attractions, including the famed International Fair grounds, the Palm House, a commie-tastic and highly instagrammable sporting arena (Hala Arena), and refurbished light cavalry barracks (City Park) now housing an assortment of top-notch restaurants.

LEPROSARIUM OF ST. LAZARUS

HISTORY The settlement called Łazarz (Lazarus) was founded in the 15th or 16th century on land previously owned by the Order of St. Lazarus, a Catholic formation known for taking care of lepers. In the 1700s it welcomed an influx of Bambers and - a century later - a wave of industrialization with the creation of factories and an electrical plant.

In April 1900 Łazarz was integrated into Poznań along with Jeżyce, Wilda, and Górczyn, sparking a period of rapid development resulting in a fantastic array of art noveau, modernist, neo-Classicist and Swiss chalet style architecture. Mercifully spared during WWII, Łazarz served as the city’s administrative centre for a short time, and it continued to carry on a peaceful existence in the postwar years.

ŁAZARZ WALKING TOUR Our walking tour through this overlooked - and underrated - district is just about 3.5 km, making for a fairly long stroll; we especially recommend it for architecture buffs and those who want to see a different face of Poznań.

1 POZNAŃ CONGRESS CENTER Occupying a sprawling plot of land just southwest of the train station, the Poznań Congress Center is home to the Poznań International Trade Fairs, which date back to 1921 and currently constitute 60% of the Polish exhibition industry. The total number of visitors attending the sixty or so trade fair events each year - everything from welding to horticulture and from logistics to beach fashion - usually reaches half a million. To find out more about the how and the why of these fairs, turn to our box on the next page.QD‑9, ul. Głogowska 14, tel. (+48) 61 869 20 00, www.pcc.mtp.pl.

iyp.me/polandblog

Photo by Radomil, CC 3.0

Hidden in plain sight a stone’s throw away from Stary Browar, this unassuming white-walled, red-roofed building in Poznań’s struggling Wilda district has some eight hundred years of history to it, and - if hauntings were real - would be one of the city’s busiest spots ‘round Halloween. Though its exact origins have been shrouded in historical fog, most historians pin its founding to the early or mid 13th century, when leprosy brought back from the Holy Land by crusaders was wreaking havoc in Europe. Yes, karma is a bitch, as some would say, but thanks to Jesus’s fondness for curing lepers (who were considered outcasts in the Jewish community at the time), the disease was considered divine mercy rather than a curse, a form of suffering meant for a chosen few or not so few - which would bring them closer to God. All this meant that there were plenty of Christians willing to help the lepers live out their miserable lives, none more than the Order of St. Lazarus, a society named after a man resurrected by Jesus after succumbing to leprosy.

Founded around 1119 in Palestine, the order spread around Europe, reaching Poznań in the 13th century.

Here they built a church, hospital, and said leprosorium, eventually giving name to the Łazarz settlement. The original village was bisected by train tracks in the 19th century, landing the leprosorium officially in the Wilda district - nevertheless, this is where Łazarz began. Rebuilt to an extent in the 18th century and renovated in the 1980s, the building currently houses a crisis intervention centre.QG-10, ul. Niedziałkowskiego 30.

Jewish Cemetery

Mateusz.woźniak CC BY-SA 3.0

November 2017 - February 2018

7

Łazarz POZNAŃ TRADE FAIRS

Sołtysówka

While many foreign visitors to Central Europe may be unfamiliar with Poznań, businesspeople involved in foreign trade are likely to be more than aware of the city. That’s because Poznań is Poland’s trade fair capital with the title justified by the country’s largest fair grounds, where the biggest and best fairs in Poland take place each year.

Though Poznań’s rich trading tradition can be traced back to the thirteenth century, the true predecessor of today’s fair was the 1911 East German Industrial Exhibition, which showcased Germany’s achievements in annexed Polish territories. Six years later the Union of Merchant Associations, comprising merchants from Greater Poland and Eastern Pomerania, decided to develop a specialised cyclical expo based on the successful model of the Leipzig Trade Fair. This idea reached fruition on May 28, 1921, when the first Poznań Fair took place. Since then, the Fair’s fortunes have risen and fallen according to the political and economic changes that periodically moved through Poland and Europe: from playing a key role in re-integrating economic activities in the newly independent second Polish Republic, to the near-demise of the fair complex during WWII air raids (which destroyed the iconic Upper Silesian Tower), and to a new start in the post-war communist state.

Though the 1950s were a time of uncertainty and tension, with the fair closed down for a few years due to the Cold War atmosphere, the ‘60s proved to be a period of robust growth, so much so that organisers started running out of exposition space. From 1973 on, the event was broken up into smaller chunks, as more specialised fairs branched off from the main expo.

Photo by Fidelio, CC 3.0

2 JEWISH CEMETERY Tragically, the Jewish Cemetery on ul. Głogowska, founded in 1804 after Prussian authorities liquidated a necropolis located in what is now Plac Wolności, was fully razed by the Nazis during WWII, with most of the grounds subsequently incorporated into the Poznań International Fair. In 2007-2008, thanks to the Committee for the Preservation of Jewish Cemeteries in Europe and the Poznań Jewish Community, a small part of the cemetery was reconstructed in the only open space available - a small courtyard at ul. Głogowska 26A. The commemorative site comprises modern tombstones of Rabbi Akiva Eger, his wife and son, and two other Poznań rabbis. Entry is by previous arrangement only, but you can peek through the gate anytime; call +48 726 100 199 or e-mail gekafka@ jewish.org.pl to set up your visit.QC‑9, ul. Głogowska 26A. 3 SOŁTYSÓWKA Though development in the late 19th century and early 20th saw Łazarz take on a decidedly city-like character, its village heritage can still be traced. There is perhaps no better example of this than the house of Łazarz’s last sołtys, or village leader, decomposing on ul. Głogowska, not far from Wilson Park. This intriguing structure, sticking out like a sore thumb among the street’s stately multi-family architecture, dates back to 1902, two years after its owner Adam Jeske ceased his merry sołtysing days. This came about as a result of the 1900 integration of Łazarz into Poznań, and in that sense the building never even saw Łazarz as an independent village, but its style is certainly a throwback. Unfortunately, due to a lack of willing buyers or city funds sołtysówka has fallen into dire disrepair, now looking like it could easily star in a horror flick.QC-10, ul. Głogowskiej 37.

Currently, the Poznań International Fair constitutes over 60% of the Polish exhibition industry, hosting some 10,000 exhibitors a year - approximately a quarter of them foreign - in the complex’s sixteen halls, which add up to 150,000 square meters of space. The total number of annual visitors attending the sixty or so trade fair events - everything from welding to horticulture, logistics to beach fashion - usually reaches half a million.

Palm House

8

Poznań In Your Pocket

iyp.me/poznan

Łazarz 4 WILSON PARK Łazarz’s most popular park originated in 1834 as a tree nursery supplying plants for local streets and squares during the district’s rapid expansion. In 1902 the land was handed over to city authorities, who soon used it to create Poznań’s first botanical garden (no longer in existence), followed by the Palm House. After the Great War the park was renamed in honour of US president Thomas Woodrow Wilson, whose bust now sits opposite the main entrance. For a while in the 1920s there was talk of building a planetarium, a project which unfortunately never came to fruition; instead, a fountain made an appearance in 1929, just in time for the Polish General Exhibition which took place in Poznań that year.QC‑9, between ul. Głogowska, ul.

Matejki and ul. Berwińskiego. Open 05:00 - 22:00.

5 PERSEUS FREEING ANDROMEDA This scene from Greek mythology was sculpted in 1891

by Johannes Pfuhl, a professor of the Academy of Arts in Berlin. Commissioned to honour Queen Augusta Victoria, who had visited the city in 1888, it originally occupied a spot at plac Cyryla Ratajskiego, where it remained until the end of WWII, suffering substantial war damage. In 1956, following thorough restoration work, the monument was moved to Wilson Park.QB-9, Wilson Park.

6 PALM HOUSE Built in waves beginning in 1910, the Palm House in Wilson Park began as a small showcase for palm trees and cacti and is now one of the largest of its kind in Europe. After the Red Army liberated Poznań in 1945 the heavily damaged Palm House lost almost all of its tropical plants, though quickly restocked and reopened again in 1946. Today the interior is filled with 1100 species of plants from all over the globe and 170 species of fish - including some of the largest goldfish we’ve ever seen. While all of the minimal signage is in Polish and Latin, it doesn’t inhibit your visit if the goal is awe.

The soaring greenhouses include plants from savannahs, deserts, and tropical climates (and the temperature reflects that; be prepared to shed some layers when visiting this humid site) interspersed with tanks that host creatures like iguanas and giant snakes. The lone non-greenhouse space is reserved for temporary exhibits and always worth a peek.QC‑9, ul. Matejki 18 (Łazarz), tel. (+48) 61 865 89 07, www.palmiarnia.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 9/7zł. Children under 3 free. Y­U

City Park

iyp.me/polandblog

KRZYSZTOF KOMEDA

Born in Poznań in 1931, Krzysztof Komeda stands out as one of Poland’s finest music talents, and remains, even in death, a source of inspiration. He studied piano from an early age, and was inducted into Poznań’s conservatory in 1939. Though the Second World War disrupted his studies it is also credited with landing him his name. Born Krzysztof Trzciński he found himself nicknamed Komeda after scrawling the word on a wall – he had meant to write ‘komenda’ (as in command post) – while playing with his mates. The local partisans had a good laugh over it and from there the name stuck. With the war over he resumed his musical aspirations and started playing in the subterranean jazz dens of Kraków.

He juggled his burgeoning musical career with a job at a health clinic, and it was here his pseudonym took root; keen to hide his nocturnal life from his employees he started performing under the name Krzysztof Komeda.

His band scored success at the 1956 Sopot Music Festival, and he re-christened his charges the Krzysztof Komeda quartet. They became the first Polish band to play modern jazz, and his spoken poetry won fans far and wide. He started collaborating with film directors and wrote scores for Roman Polanski’s classics Knife in the Water and Rosemary’s Baby, among numerous others. Like all the greats, his death is shrouded in mystery. He died in Warsaw from brain injuries with claims of an earlier car accident in LA being the cause, while Roman Polański wrote that a grappling bout with writer Marek Hłasko could have been to blame. The truth will never be known. Credited with influencing a whole generation he stands out as one of the immortals of Polish music, and his memory is honoured by the annual Komeda Jazz Festival in Słupsk (www. en.komedajazz.com) and a memorial located in front of one of the buildings of his alma mater, the Poznań Medical University (ul. Przybyszewskiego 37A).

November 2017 - February 2018

9

Łazarz 9 ST. ANNA’S CHURCH This neo-Gothic house of worship was a direct result of the rapid development of Łazarz during the late 19th and early 20th centruries. Completed in the years 1905-1907 for the local Protestants (at the time Poznań was still in Prussiancontrolled territory, and thus had a sizeable Protestant population), St. Anna’s was converted to a Roman Catholic church in the final days of WWII.QA-10, ul. Matejki 43, www.swanna.tami.pl. Open on Tue & Thu only, from dawn till dusk.

10 RYNEK ŁAZARSKI

St. Anna’s Church 7 CITY PARK What was once Prussian barracks, taken over by the Polish light cavalry (the Uhlans) after WWI, has been lovingly refurbished under the watchful eye of the local conservator-restorer, and is now a luxury complex with a five-star hotel, high-end apartments, and gourmet restaurants including Słoń (p.??), Kyokai Sushi (p.??), and Lars, Lars & Lars (p.??). Definitely the place to eat in Łazarz; should you choose to start off your walking tour in the morning, Bagels & Friends (p.??) is an excellent place for breakfast.QA‑10, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26 (Łazarz), tel. (+48) 61 853 42 98. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 19:00.

Though officially the heart of Łazarz, the district’s rynek holds little appeal: gray and a bit shabby, it’s filled with some 300 permenantly-encamped striped tents selling cheap produce, fresh flowers, and assorted bric-a-brac daily from 6:00 till 16:00, except for Sundays. The square was created in 1894 under the name Lazarusplatz and hemmed in by townhouses in the early 20th century; in pre-WWII days, it featured a garden and around 30 restaurants and bars, a situation which changed dramatically after the war. Apparently, though, the wind of change is blowing yet again: big renovation works are scheduled to start in late 2017, with the goal of transforming the square into a modern and inviting space with trees, beer gardens, and a circular shelter for merchant stands.QC‑11, Rynek Łazarski (Łazarz), www.targowiska.com.pl. Open 06:00 16:00. Closed Sun.

8 HALA ARENA One of those splendidly odd (and oddly instagrammable) concrete commie-era structures, the Hala Arena was actually inspired by the modernist Palazzetto dello Sport in Rome, which it resembles to a remarkable extent. Opened to the public in 1974, the sporting arena’s best days may be behind it, but its 4200 seats and 13 500 square metres of usable space are still regularly used for concerts and sporting events.QA‑10, ul. Wyspiańskiego 33.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App Hala Arena

10 Poznań In Your Pocket

iyp.me/poznan

Arrival & Transport

Photo by Jakub Gąsiorowski, courtesy of City of Poznań.

BY TRAIN MAIN TRAIN STATION Poznań’s main train station (Dworzec Poznań Główny) is opposite the Trade Fair Centre and about 10 minutes by taxi to the main square. The site of a massive 160 million złoty redevelopment project over the last few years, a new transportation centre has arisen alongside the old train station building, which integrates rail, tram, and bus connections in one modern, state-of-the-art underground transit station. As a result, this is now the point of entry for most visitors to the city, including those arriving at the airport and taking the direct bus to the centre, which drops off here.

In this day and age, ‘modern’ and ‘state-of-the-art’ not only connote sleek, fully handicap-accessible facilities, but the incorporation of a new shopping mall (with parking for 900 cars), plus dozens of other opportunities for consumerism and refreshment dotted around the station (welcome to the 21st century). Other now-standard amenities include lockers for large luggage (have some coins handy), currency exchange and bank machines. The city of Poznań operates a tourist information desk, but there’s also the PKP-operated Train Station Office (open 07:00 - 21:00), which can help you plan your trip, get tickets, and even get into town.

Normal ticket windows are conveniently open 24hrs, but using the ticket machines (which have English options) is just as easy. If you’re running late, note that it is possible to buy tickets onboard the train from the conductor for a 12 Poznań In Your Pocket

small surcharge. Check the timetables online at the Polish railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has good English functionality; if you want a seat on a particular train, it is best to book ahead.

Taxis await you immediately outside, and a ride to the main square costs about 20-30zł. Alternatively, hop on tram number 5 (to ‘Wrocławska’) or number 8 (to ‘Pl. Wielkopolski’) from the ‘Most Dworcowy’ stop located on the bridge, and you will only have a short 6-7 minute walk to the main square; a 10-minute ticket will suffice.

2017 construction work is making the train station more difficult to navigate, so allow a bit of extra time and follow the yellow signs.QD‑9, ul. Dworcowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl.

Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made between 24:00 - 01:00.

© Tomasz Francuzik; courtesy of City of Poznań

iyp.me/poznan

Arrival & Transport

BY BUS

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

MAIN BUS STATION At the end of 2013, PKS Poznań Bus Station was integrated into the city’s spiffy new transportation centre below the Avenida shopping mall - more info on which you can find under Main Train Station, including what amenities are available, and how to get into town.QE‑9, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 703 30 33 30, www.pks.poznan.pl.

Ticket office open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 19:00.

TI open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Poznań is crisscrossed by over one hundred tram and bus lines, including night routes, and represents the most time and cost efficient way to move about town. Due to frequent track work and route changes, however, your best bet for figuring out how to use public transport in Poz is the super-helpful website poznan.jakdojade.pl (mobile app also available), which can tell you exactly how to get from point A to Point B in English.Transport tickets are bought from automated machines found on most buses and trams, as well as at most transport stops, and thankfully you can pay by card (no need for coins!). The galaxy of ticket options are far too complex to review here; you can take it to heart that you won’t be leaving ‘Zone A’ unless you’re travelling far outside of the city-centre, as even Lake Malta is within Zone A. Tickets are timed, and the cheapest option is a notvery-cheap 3zł for only 10mins - which might only get you 3 or 4 stops. A 40-min ticket for 4.60zł is the safer bet, but if you plan on travelling often, you may want to consider a 24hr or 48hr ticket. Note that kids under five and adults over 70 ride for free.

BY PLANE

POZNAŃ ŁAWICA AIRPORT Poznań Ławica Airport lies a convenient 7km west of central Poznań.

In the Arrivals terminal you’ll find an exchange bureau (kantor), cash machine (bankomat), and food vendors, as well as a tourist info point where you can pick up additional copies of Poznań’s best guidebook (wink). As with all sensible airports in this day and age, there is absolutely no left luggage facility.

Getting to town is a cinch. Car rental is available, and taxis stand right outside the entrance - you’ll probably overpay to take one, however. With taxi rates to the centre rather ridiculously ranging from 20-50zł depending on the time of day, it’s hard for us to say how much you should pay, but you should always agree on a fare with the driver before committing.

Alternatively, cut costs by catching a bus, which will get you to the centre in 15-20 minutes. From the stop right outside the entrance, Line 59 heads to ‘Most Teatralny’ at least three times per hour from 05:05 to 24:00. At other times the airport is connected to the train station by night bus 242, which runs at 00:30, 01:30, 03:00, 04:00 daily; journey time 20 mins to Most Teatralny. Single 40-minute tickets (4.60zł) can be bought from kiosks, TI or ticket machines; remember to validate your ticket immediately upon boarding.Qul. Bukowska 285 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 43, www.airport-poznan.com.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

Finally, it is extremely important that you validate your ticket by punching it in the ‘kasowniks’ found by the bus/tram exit as soon as you board. Inspectors regularly travel the lines handing out hefty fines, and they aren’t sympathetic to tourists; seriously, riding without a ticket can not only ruin your day, but your entire trip to Poz.

TOURIST CARD Enterprising tourists should consider the Poznań Tourist Card - a splendid piece of plastic that entitles the bearer to free or discounted admission to more than 70 places, plus optional free travel on the city’s public transport system for a small additional fee. The card comes a guide explaining how to use it, which places offer free admission (most museums) and which offer discounts (a selection of restaurants, theatres and other attractions such as the zoos, Lech Visitors Centre and various leisure activities).

The card can also be used in selected places outside of the city, such as Kórnik Castle, where it is valid for an additional day on top of the number of days it is valid in the city.

Cards cost 35zł for 1-day (30zł without transport), 49zł for 2-days (35zł without transport), and 59zł for 3-days (45zł without transport), and can be purchased from every Tourist Information Centre as well as a few hotels. Every venue in our guide which accepts the Poznań Tourist Card has been marked with a TC symbol.

November 2017 - February 2018

13

Arrival & Transport USEFUL TRANSPORT APPS JAKDOJADE: Despite the fact that Poznań’s tram and bus network is easy to use, even for foreigners, we’ll still admit to being a bit put off from using it at first; that is until we discovered the veritable skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the poznan.jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app for your smartphone.

The former is a great tool for advance planning, but the app is more practical for figuring out how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town and away from your computer. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically) and destination, or pin the locations on a map; select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. Finished at the museum and want to head back to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop, and even tell you which ticket to buy. It’s brilliant and absolutely worth making room on your phone for.

ITAXI: If you don’t have the patience for public transport in the first place, there’s a nifty app for ordering taxis in PL: iTaxi.pl. iTaxi allows you to compare rates, arrival times, car models, and more, sending the cab of your choice to your location without you having to talk to any dispatchers. Best of all, the drivers register to create a profile, and are heavily vetted so there’s no funny business. Download it for free from their website.

BY CAR Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of getting behind the wheel here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.

The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licences technically invalid (though this has never been a problem for anyone we know).

Driving to Poznań is fairly easy as it’s on the main E30 highway between Warsaw and Berlin. Once you’ve arrived, driving around Poznań’s congested one-way streets can be incredibly trying, however, so we suggest you ditch your vehicle for public transport at the first opportunity, which raises the question of where to put it.

Public parking lots are marked on the maps in the back of our print guide, and free parking is basically non-existent, though some hotels have limited parking spaces for guests; check when booking your room. For street parking you’ll easily recognise the universal large blue ‘P’ sign, but be aware that a blue circle with a red ‘X’ over it means ‘No Parking’ (not sure which universe that sign is from). Pay via the automated ticket machines on the sidewalk, but note that they only take coins or special chip cards from the parking authority office (so forget that option). Generally having a private car in Poznań is a bad idea unless you have a safe, inexpensive place to keep it.

UBER: Uber (uber.com) has indeed arrived in Poland, recently opening its firstever Regional Centre of Excellence at Browar Lubicz in Kraków, which serves as their European hub. If you’re already an Uber user, you’ll find that the alternative taxi service - whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash, no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage across Poznań and all of Poland.

14 Poznań In Your Pocket

The ‘Maluch’ - iconic communist-era family car, and sadly unavailable to rent.

iyp.me/poznan

Arrival & Transport CAR RENTAL

CHRISTMAS IN POLAND

All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid foreign driver’s licence or international driving permit. Be aware, however, that citizens from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk America, Australia) cannot legally drive on their licences and run the risk of hassle from the police (not that it ever stopped anyone we know from borrowing their girlfriend’s car, or renting one for that matter).

Enjoy cruising the EU, but don’t try leaving it in a rental car.

AVIS Avis, the global leader in car rentals, offers short and long rental cars, vans, and chauffeur-driven vehicles, including everything from small city cars to shared vans, even hybrids. Over 1,000 models are available - all equipped with air conditioning, airbags and ABS to ensure both comfort and safety. Flexible terms of cooperation from experts in professionalism, convenience and safety. Also at Pl. Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel, G-9).Qul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 35, www.avis.pl.

Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Telephone line manned 24hrs a day.

EUROPCAR Qul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 57, www.europcar.pl. Open 08:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 23:30.

TAXIS Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable and use their metres without any fiddling around. Calling ahead should get you a better fare, but if you hail one from the street make sure you choose a clearly marked cab with a company name and phone number displayed, as well as a sticker demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a printed receipt at journey’s end further limiting the likelihood of any funny business.

You should expect to pay 5zł for entering the taxi followed by 2zł per kilometre. Prices rise on Sundays, holidays, late at night and for travel outside of the city limits.

Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a point of contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a service that necessitates a tip and thereby, if you’re Polish, the driver may not expect one. But double standards being what they are, it’s anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you.

EURO TAXI Qtel. (+48) 61 811 11 11, www.euro-taxi.com.pl.

RADIO LUX TAXI Qtel. (+48) 61 196 62, www.luxtaxi.com.pl.

ZTP POZNAŃ Qtel. (+48) 61 196 22, www.taxi.com.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

Though not immune to the inglorious Western custom of setting out festive merchandise in October, this staunchly catholic country keeps Christ firmly in Christmas – meaning that the holidays are still more of a spiritual rather than consumerist celebration.

The season kicks off with Advent, a period of fasting, praying, and expectant waiting, which (at least in theory) is every bit as solemn as you’d expect from Poland. Of course, how closely church guidelines are followed depends on individual inclinations, and while some wake up before dawn each day to attend Rorate Mass, other prefer to celebrate the season with generous amounts of mulled wine in jolly company.

One of the most eagerly awaited days of the year for children is December 6th, Saint Nicholas Day, when they wake up to sweets and small gifts from Saint Nick (generally the stately saint, not Coca Cola Santa – though the visual given to kids is also a matter of preference). The main act of the holidays occurs on Christmas Eve, called Wigilia, when families gather for a festive evening meal followed by caroling, gift-giving, and Midnight Mass; Christmas Day and Boxing Day are reserved for visiting extended family and friends and possibly taking part in additional masses. Unabashed Christmas spirit is kept going until Three Kings Day on January 6th, but the holiday season doesn’t officially wrap up until Candlemas on February 2nd, when many families finally take down their decorations.

So what about food? Bad news if you dislike Polish cooking, basically. A traditional Wigilia meal consists of twelve dishes - one for each apostle - which should be meatless as it’s not Jesus’ birthday quite yet. Alcohol is another no-no, though Poles sometimes turn a blind eye on this one. Traditional dishes include borscht with baby pierogi rolled up tortellini-style, full-grown pierogi various ways, carp (fish is practically considered a vegetable in this meat-heavy cuisine), herring, cabbage with peas, stewed dried fruit, poppy seed strudel, and gingerbread. Before all those are rolled out, however, dinner participants are forced (by tradition) to share Christmas wafers with each other one-on-one while wishing luck and happiness in the coming year. If the hosts’ creativity has failed, the wafer can be usefully counted as a twelfth meal - convenient!

November 2017 - February 2018

15

City Basics FACTS & FIGURES

MARKET VALUES

TERRITORY Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of October 20, 2017 based on €1 = 4.25zł

LONGEST RIVER The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at 1,047km and flows through Krakow and Warsaw before reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Poznań sits on the Warta river which reaches the Baltic via the Odra at Szczecin.

HIGHEST POINT The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the Tatra Mountains on Poland’s southern border.

POPULATION (2016) Poland - 38,483,957 Warsaw - 1,744,400 Kraków - 761,100 ​Łódź - 700,982 ​Wrocław - 635,800 ​Poznań - 542,300​ ​Gdańsk - 462,249 ​Katowice - 301,834 LOCAL TIME Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Poznań it’s 6:00 am in New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following: Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997.

English, German and Russian speakers have separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: +48 608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay.

The lines are active year round with later hours during the high-tourist season.

For urgent medical emergencies, a list of Emergency Rooms can be found in the Directory on page 84. If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories of some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling a private clinic (p.84), thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals. Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which you’ll find on page 84.

16 Poznań In Your Pocket

McDonald's Big Mac Snickers candy bar 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr beer (shop) 0.5ltr beer (bar) Loaf of white bread Pack of Marlboro cigarettes 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) Local transport ticket (1 journey)

10.10 zł 1.75 zł 25.99 zł 2.89 zł 8.00 zł 1.99 zł 15.50 zł 4.92 zł 4.60 zł

€ 2.38 € 0.41 € 6.12 € 0.68 € 1.88 € 0.47 € 3.65 € 1.16 € 1.08

LAW & ORDER Poznań is safer than most West European cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets; if you’re in a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Avoid being ripped off by using clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around the train station and airport. The vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train station are by in large harmless and easily ignored.

Staying on the right side of the law is significantly easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the law. In recent years visitors ranging from folks in Chewbacca costumes to complete fools who’ve thought it’s perfectly acceptable to drop their trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain have tested the patience of the local law enforcement. Their tolerance threshold is now decidedly low so don’t push your luck.

Those who do may well be treated to a trip to Poznań’s premier drunk tank (ul. Podolańska 46), where you can expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the overnight company of a dozen mumbling vagrants - not to mention a hefty fine (credit cards not accepted, of course).

Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding public transport without a ticket (see p.13), and, silly as it seems, by jaywalking. If you are from a country which doesn’t have or respect jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised to see crowds of people standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to change. The iyp.me/poznan

City Basics reason for obeying this little rule is the fact that the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite freely give you a 50-100zł fine for crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when the ‘walk’ light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You too are subject to the law and your non-residency means you will be forced to pay the fine on the spot.

MONEY Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional restaurant or bar will often refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments.

Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming ‘Kantor’. Kantors will often provide better value than the banks in your home country or the ATM, though for obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sites. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. For a list of Kantors in Poznań that won’t rip you off, see Directory.

Since EU ascension, prices in Poland have been on the rise, making the country less of a bargain than it was ten years ago. Having said that, however, prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still remain comparably cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the cinema typically costs 15-25zł while admission to most museums costs around 5-15zł.

RELIGION According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 95% of Poles are Roman Catholics. And though that figure is based on baptisms and the number of actual practising Catholics is probably closer to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one of the most religious countries in Europe. For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the Church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Those used to the more easygoing habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass. Tourists should remember while visiting Poznań’s many churches that these aren’t museums, but active places of worship to be treated with the requisite respect. iyp.me/polandblog

LANGUAGE SMARTS Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Though you can probably get by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will nonetheless smooth your time in Poznań and may even win you friends and admirers.

On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.

This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation

‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry

Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobry Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri) (Doh-bri vyeh-choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

My name is...

I’m from England.

Do you speak English?

I don’t speak Polish.

I don’t understand.

Two beers, please.

Cheers!

Where are the toilets?

You are beautiful.

I love you.

Please take me home.

Call me!

Mam na imię...

Jestem z Anglii Czy mówisz po angielsku?

Nie mówię po polsku.

Nie rozumiem.

Dwa piwa proszę.

Na zdrowie!

Gdzie są toalety?

Jesteś piękna.

Kocham cię.

Proszę zabierz mnie do domu.

Zadzwoń do mnie!

(Mam nah ee-myeh…)

(Yehstem zanglee) (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)

(Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)

(Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)

(Dvah peevah prosheh.)

(Nah zdrovyeh!)

(Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)

(Ko-hahm chuh.)

(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.)

(Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

Airport Train station Bus station One ticket to…

Lotnisko Dworzec PKP Dworzec PKS Jeden bilet do…

(Lot-nees-ko) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess) (Yeh-den bee-let doh…)

November 2017 - February 2018

17

Basic History Little do most visitors to Poznań realise, but the large and historical capital of Wielkopolska is the likely birthplace of the Polish state - in a way. As it happens, Poznań’s Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island) is a top candidate for the location of the 966 baptism of Prince Mieszko I, Poland’s first ruler (and also the guy on the 10zł note). Known as the Baptism of Poland, this bold move ushered Christianity into the previously-polytheistic Slavic populace and brought new importance to Mieszko’s state in the European scene. Other contenders for the birthplace title include nearby Gniezno, the first Polish capital (located 50km from Poznań), and the island of Ostrów Lednicki (located 35km from Poznań) both absolutely worth a visit if you’re interested in Polish history or archeological sites in general. All three were strongholds built by Mieszko I, who had a penchant for warfare, but it was Poznań that became the seat of Poland’s first missionary bishop, and it was here that the first Polish cathedral was erected in 968. Known as the St. Peter Basilica, it served as the final resting place for the early Polish kings, and its n-th iteration (now called the Archcathedral Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul, but commonly known as Poznań Cathedral) is still standing proudly on Ostrów Tumski.

HISTORICAL TIMELINE 966: Mieszko I potentially baptised here 968: Poland’s first bishop takes up residence in Ostrów Tumski, Poznań Cathedral built 1038: City burned down by Bretislaus I, Duke of Bohemia 1039: City rebuilt by Casimir the Restorer 1253: Magdeburg rights bestowed on the city, construction of fortifications and castle begins 1534: City scales built 1536: Major fire 1655: Swedish and Brandenburgian occupation of the city 1704: Battle of Poznań (Northern War) 1793: Annexed by Prussia, becomes ‘Posen’ 1806: Napoleon temporarily headquartered in the city 1807: Becomes part of the Duchy of Warsaw 1815: Becomes part of Prussia again 1921: Poznań Fair starts 1918: Wielkopolska Uprising begins 1945: Battle of Poznań 1952: Creation of Lake Malta 1956: Poznań June (workers’ protests) 1999: Becomes capital of the Wielkopolska Voivodeship 18 Poznań In Your Pocket

Workers demand bread during the 1956 Poznań protests.

As a result, Poznań was quickly elevated to the status of an important religious and political centre, and all seemed to be going well until the Czech nation attacked, forcing inhabitants to flee and burning the entire place to the ground in 1038. Thankfully, it was soon rebuilt by the appropriately-named King Casimir I the Restorer, but its days of political greatness were on hold - the capital had been moved from heavily-damaged Gniezno to faraway Kraków, leaving Poznań to develop as a trade and commerce hub instead.

The tide turned in 1253, when Przemysł I, Duke of Greater Poland, granted Magdeburg rights to the settlement during Poland’s feudal fragmentation, which lasted from 1138 until 1320. As fortifications and the Poznań Castle sprung up, the focus shifted from now-passe Ostrów Tumski to the new district centred around the Main Square. Poznań remained the capital of Wielkopolska rulers until the 1296 regicide of Przemysł II, when it came into Władysław I the Elbow-High’s sphere of influence. With the fragmentation resolved and King Elbow-High on the Polish throne in Kraków, the city was once again pushed into political insignificance and stagnation. Development and progress had to wait for the reign of Władysław II Jagiełło in the second half of the 14th century and the beginning of the 15th, whose pro-trade policies brought the city up to the ranks of Toruń and Lwów.

And yet, the true golden age was still to come. A time of comparative peace, a change of trade routes, and favourable law-making caused the city to thrive and flourish during the Polish Renaissance (1500-1630), drawing merchants and craftsmen from near and far, who expanded the city well beyond its original walls. Fires, floods, and plagues that erupted with a certain regularity kept things from being completely rosy, but these things were to be expected in even the most prosperous cities of the time. All of this idyll came to a crashing halt in 1655, with what’s known in Poland as the “Swedish Flood” - a rather savage invasion of the now-benign northern iyp.me/poznan

Basic History neighbours. The danger was compounded by their newlyfound allies, the Brandenburgians. First the Swedes, then the Brandenburgians acted as the city’s occupying force between August 1655 and August 1657, but they were ousted by a common uprising, which blockaded the city.

The trouble was far from over, however - undisciplined szlachta (Polish nobility) and Polish military plundered Poznań, a support army sent for John II Casimir Vasa marched through shortly after, adding to the devastation, and - just for good measure - a bubonic plague breakout reduced the remaining population to a pitiful level. At this point in history, more houses in Poznań were standing empty than occupied, a drastic and macabre change from the recent golden age. Sadly, the 18th century proved no better - a succession of armed conflicts including the Northern War, the War of the Polish Succession, the Seven Years’ War, and the Bar Confederation all took a heavy toll, and it wasn’t until 1775 that foreign forces left the city.

Things seemed to be looking up as Boni Ordinis (Good Order) Committees, organised by King Poniatowski, started the difficult process of restoring functionality to devastated Polish cities, but major trouble was ahead for the sovereign Polish state, as three forces - Russians, Prussians, and AustroHungarians - partitioned the country for good in 1795. It wouldn’t be until the end of WWI that Poland would regain independence; meanwhile Poznań had to cope with its new reality under Prussian occupation.

Doing so didn’t come easy, but Prussia’s war with Napoleon’s France provided a glimmer of hope. The successful 1806 Wielkopolska Uprising, aided by Napoleon himself, led to the creation of the Duchy of Warsaw, a short-lived state which fell to the Prussians again in 1815. A second uprising by inhabitants of the Poznań Province, in 1818-1819, secured the region’s safe return to the newly independent Polish state. During WWII, the region was to be annexed

by Germany again, and much of the Polish and Jewish populace to be shipped to concentration and forced labour camps. Towards the end of the war the city was the site of a key battle between advancing Soviet forces and retreating Nazis: the 1945 Battle of Poznań. It took a full month to oust the Germans, and the havoc wreaked on the city was immense; up to 90% of the historic Old Town was now in shambles and had to be reconstructed in the post-war years.

From 1952, the start-year of the socialist Polish People’s Republic, Poznań saw many workers’ protests stemming from dissatisfaction with the commie regime; they reached their peak in 1956, during the tragic Poznań June, a month of general strikes and street demonstrations brutally crushed by security forces, during which 57 people lost their lives. In the 1960s, intensive commie-style housing development started taking place, and the Warta River was re-routed to lessen the danger of flooding. Currently, Poznań is an industry, trade, and tourism hub, regularly hosting trade fairs and international events at its Poznań International Fair site. iyp.me/polandblog

THE PIASTS More than any other major city in the country, Poznań’s history is tied to the Piast dynasty and the very birth of Poland. Poland’s first ruling family were the Piasts, and though the family line goes back to the 8th century we’ll start with Mieszko I, Poland’s first ruler (he’s the fella on the 10zł note). Born in 935AD his life generally revolved around the battlefield, but when he wasn’t leading his troops into conflict from the Baltic Coast to the plains of Silesia, he spent most of his time here in Wielkopolska, specifically his fortresses in Poznań, Gniezno and Ostrów Lednicki. Baptised in 966 he founded Poznań Cathedral two years later, a move seen by many as the beginning of the nation’s Christianisation.

Meanwhile, Adalbert - the first Bishop of Prague - arrived in Gniezno in search of a quieter life. Soon, however, he was persuaded out of exile to convert the barbarous Prussian tribes to Christianity, but his head almost immediately ended up on a spike. Back in Poz, Mieszko had been succeeded by his son Bolesław I (find him on the 20zł note) in 992, who decided he would personally make the perilous journey to recover Adalbert’s corpse.

Bolesław’s act so impressed the Pope that he sent Otto III - the head of the Holy Roman Empire - to Gniezno in 1000 to view Adalbert’s remains and meet with Bolesław.

It was during this meeting that an archbishopric was established in Gniezno, and 25 years later Bolesław had himself crowned King. Commonly known as ‘Bolesław the Great’ or ‘Bolesław Chrobry’ the nation’s first regent is credited with unifying the regions of Poland, as well as strengthening Poland’s international standing through his smart diplomacy. Although his son and heir, Mieszko II, died in suspicious circumstances nine years into his reign, the Piasts remained in power and continued to rule Poland for centuries, despite frequently finding themselves in conflict with the landowners. Poland’s fragile unity regularly threatened to disintegrate, and upon the 1320 coronation of Władysław I concerted efforts were again made to unite Poland’s various provinces. The work of Władysław was carried on by King Kazimierz, who would later be known as ‘Kazimierz the Great’ - he doubled the size of Poland, stabilised the economy, commissioned the construction of a numerous castles and forts, and eventually got himself on the 50zł note. What he failed to do, however, was have a son (despite the efforts of four wives), and his death in 1370 marked the end of the Piast dynasty. Although the royal court was moved to Kraków in the 11th century the Wielkopolska region is synonymous with the Piasts and their time at Poland’s helm. Today, a special tourist route called ‘The Piast Route’ connects the most important sites integral to Poland’s early beginnings; for a comprehensive list visit the website of the Piast Route Tourist Organisation: www.turystyka.powiat-gniezno.pl.

November 2017 - February 2018

19

What’s On

International Ice Sculpture Festival (p.21) | Photo: Marek Zakrzewski

EVENTS BY DATE 20.01 19:00, 21.01 18:00, 23.01 19:00 » SWAN LAKE

Pyotr Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake is a title that seems never to leave the playbills, despite a poor reception when it initially premiered in 1877 at the Bolshoi. The work took on its most popular form two years after the composer died, thanks to unforgettable choreography by Marius Petipa and Lev Ivanov. The subtle musical layer keeps charming the audiences 140 years later, with the story of Odette, magically transformed into the Swan Queen, inspiring artists worldwide. Excerpts from the ballet have been used in many films, including the 2010 psychological thriller Black Swan, starring Natalie Portman.QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, Tickets 12130zł available at www.opera.poznan.pl or in box office, www.opera.poznan.pl.

16.11 - 18.11 » NOSTALGIA FESTIVAL

The Nostalgia Festival is an innovative musical project, with the goal of showing the public the modern music circle, mainly centred on ECM Records. The music they produce is a true art form, coming out of a sense of longing, and reaching back to their roots (Armenia, Estonia, Ukraine, Russia). Combined with a modern sound, the result is a symbolic meeting point of many traditions and tries to understand differences in the modern world while trying to reach different listeners. Past editions have been hosted

by Kim Kashkashian, Robyn Schulkovsky, Alan Newcombe, 20 Poznań In Your Pocket

Agata Zubel and Piotr Orzechowski. After the first edition, ECM Records saw Nostalgia as an unprecedented event, proven by Manfred Eicher debuting two songs before the release of his new album at the festival in 2007.Qwww. nostalgiafestival.pl/pl/festival.

16.11 - 18.11 » POZNAŃ BEER EXPO

Beer. What more can we say? Admittedly of more interest than the Welding Exhibition, the International Trade Fair of Components for Furniture Production, the Annual World Dental Congress, and a number of other events organised at the Poznań International Fairgrounds, the Poznań Beer Expo will take you on an adventure through the world of Baltic porters, New Zealand lagers, and IPAs. It’s no small affair, with dozens of domestic and international breweries joining in the fun.QG‑9, Poznań Congress Center, ul.

Głogowska 14, tel. (+48) 61 869 20 00, Tickets 20zł, festival pass 40zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (C-3; ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall)), www.targipiwne.pl/en.

16.11 » BENJAMIN CLEMENTINE

Benjamin Clementine is returning to Poland with his new creation Phantom of Aleppoville, a song drawing parallels between effects of trauma suffered by victims of bullying and children of war-torn Aleppo. The charismatic English singer and pianist, known for his hits like London and Nemesis, recently collabed with Gorillaz on the track Hallelujah Money. His Poznań show is part of his fall tour, which will even take him through Carnegie Hall in New York City (impressive!). iyp.me/poznan

What’s On Once struggling with homelessness in Paris, Benjamin now enjoys wide acclaim, with some comparing the quality of his voice to that of Leonard Cohen, Nina Simone, and Edith Piaf. His debut 2015 album At Least for Now earned him the Mercury Music Prize.QF‑7, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św.

Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, Tickets available at Biletomat.pl, Eventim.pl, Ticketpro.pl.

Music / Film / Meetings

19.11 » THE WORLD FAMOUS HARLEM GOSPEL CHOIR SINGS ADELE

This year, the world-famous Gospel Choir is back with a totally freshened up musical repertoire focused on all things Adele. This offers us the chance to experience something unique: songs from arguably one of the best vocalists of our times being performed by one of the best gospel choirs in the world. Revel in hits like Rolling in the Deep, Someone Like You, Hello, Skyfall, and Set Fire to the Rain. There will be no shortage of blues, soul, and jazz classics from other greats as well, such as Billie Holiday, Ray Charles, James Brown, Ella Fitzgerald, and Stevie Wonder.QH‑5, Aula Artis, ul. Gen. Tadeusza Kutrzeby 10, Tickets 125-165zł available at www. makroconcert.com/pl, Tickets 125-165zł available at www.makroconcert.com/pl.

THE COMMON SONG

16-18.11.2017

30.11 - 03.12 » CAVALIADA

This indoor event is equestrian everything—from Central European League World Championship eliminations, to kids’ races, to special shows of skill and strength. For a few days this year, the International Fairgrounds will fill up with horses, horsemen, and horse lovers alike. The programme is pretty developed, featuring a specially prepared educational component for the youngest of equestrians, complemented also by the biggest professional equestrian equipment and accessories fair in Poland. If that’s your scene—don’t be shy.QG‑9, Poznań Congress Center, ul.

Głogowska 14, tel. (+48) 61 869 20 00, Tickets 25-78zł, pass 225zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (C3; ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall)), www. cavaliada.pl/en.

02.12 - 22.12 » CHRISTMAS FAIR

It’s that time of year again—let the Christmas markets spring up like deranged candy-cane-striped mushrooms.

You know the deal: there will be cute regional crafts (souvenir shopping!), gingerbread (yum!), mulled wine and mulled beer, wintertime snacks and gifts and contests. Get ready for an explosion of Christmas, all packed into one place.QI‑7, Old Town Square. 11:00.

02.12 - 03.12 » INTERNATIONAL ICE SCULPTURE FESTIVAL

It is winter (almost), and we are in Northern Europe, so an ice sculpting festival is practically a must, don’t you think?

This one here has been organised for eleven years now, and draws an international crowd, with artists from Poland, France, Bulgaria, USA, Canada, Russia, Japan, and the Philippines (do they even have snow?!) expected to make appearances.QI‑7, Old Town Square, Admission free. iyp.me/polandblog

PAWEŁ MYKIETYN BARDO JOHN POTTER

www.nostalgiafestival.pl

Organizer:

Film programme made with support of:

Festival made with support of:

Sponsorzy:

Media patronages:

November 2017 - February 2018

21

What’s On What’s going on? facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket 05.12 » GLENN MILLER ORCHESTRA

Without a doubt the most popular and still most indemand swing big band in the world. It all started in the 30s, but after the founder’s death, his friend Tex Benek decided to continue the project as The World Famous Glenn Miller Orchestra. Today they are lead by Will Salden. Their hits include Moonlight Serenade, In the Mood, Tuxedo Junction, Chattanooga Choo Choo and I’ve Got a Gal in Kalamazoo. Apparently, they have released more number 1s than Elvis or The Beatles, so tickets will be going fast.QTickets 145-185zł available at www.makroconcert.com/pl, www.makroconcert. com/pl.

06.12 » RALPH KAMIŃSKI

Pietro Mascagni

Rapsodia Satanica 22 X 2017 18:00

KINO W OPERZE Tego jeszcze u nas nie było! 22 października zapraszamy do Teatru Wielkiego w Poznaniu na niezwykłe wydarzenie - projekcję filmowego arcydzieła z muzyką na żywo. RAPSODIA SATANICA to jedyny film, do którego muzykę skomponował słynny włoski kompozytor, Pietro Mascagni, autor chętnie grywanej do dzisiaj opery „Rycerskość wieśniacza”. To także ostatni film zrealizowany przez Nina Oxilię, włoskiego reżysera, która zginął na froncie I wojny światowej, w wieku zaledwie 28 lat. Fatum śmierci przenika zresztą głęboko tę – zainspirowaną „Faustem” - opowieść o tragicznych skutkach pogoni za wieczną młodością. Inaczej niż u Goethego bohaterką „Rapsodii…” jest kobieta. Wiekowa hrabina, Alba d’Oltrevita (Lyda Borelli), która podpisuje pakt z diabłem. W zamian za młodość musi jednak na zawsze wyrzec się miłości. Zdaniem krytyka filmowego Bartosza Żurawieckiego, końcowe fragmenty Rapsodii…” to zapierająca dech poezja, której próżno szukać we współczesnym kinie.

Nasycona melancholią, pełna operowego patosu, skomponowana z ręcznie kolorowanych kadrów „Rapsodia szatańska” gotowa była w roku 1915. Jednak premiera odbyła się dopiero dwa lata później, czekano bowiem cierpliwie na partyturę, którą tworzył maestro Mascagni. Dzisiaj film ten uważany jest za jedno z największych osiągnięć włoskiego kina niemego.

Pieczołowicie zrekonstruowany po latach zostanie pokazany w Teatrze Wielkim z towarzyszeniem naszej orkiestry grającej na żywo oryginalną muzykę Pietra Mascagniego. Ta oprawa pozwoli widzom na nowo poczuć nie tylko magię dawnego kina, ale też wieczną potęgę miłości i śmierci.

With his signature falsetto vocals, Ralph Kamiński will bring some warmth into our Polish winter coldness.

Kamiński’s music is best described as an original mix of acoustic pop with elements of film and classical music.

His songs, usually wrapped in a dusting of melancholy, complemented by organic piano and string sounds, are nothing other than brilliant storytelling wrapped up in sound.QF‑7, Blue Note Jazz Club, ul. Kościuszki 79, tel. (+48) 61 851 04 08, Tickets 40-54zł available at www.pwevents.pl.

06.12 » MOSCOW CITY BALLET: THE NUTCRACKER

One of the most popular shows of the winter preChristmas season, The Nutcracker offers an escape from reality and transports us into a world of wonder and whimsy. Artfully executed by the Moscow City Ballet, the show is a story of a girl who receives a present (we’ll let you guess what it is), which then comes to life in her dreams, becomes the prince to her princess, and takes her on exotic adventures. A dream within a dream is the perfect place to experiment with a variety of dance styles and choreographies, which include Pietro Mascagni był, obok Giacomo Pucciniego, kluczową postacią dla włoskiej opery końca XIX i pierwszej the famous waltz of the flowers and the dance of the połowy XX wieku. Uważa się go za drugiego (obok Ruggiera Leoncavalla) twórcę weryzmu w operze włoskiej.

Komponował głównie opery. Najbardziej znaną z nich jest właśnie Rycerskość wieśniacza (wł. Cavalleria sugarplum fairies; along with the more controversial rusticana),której fragmenty usłyszymy także 22 października. Warto dodać, że ten wybitny twórca gościł w murach naszego teatru. W sezonie 1925/26 dyrygował operami : ”Rycerskość wieśniacza”, ”Pajace” Arabian, Spanish, and Chinese “tea” dances.QD‑9, Ruggiera Leoncavalla i „Aida” Giuseppe Verdiego. W archiwach pozostały pamiątkowe fotografie z tej wizyty.

Poznań Congress Center, ul. Głogowska 14, tel. (+48) Honorowy patronat nad wydarzeniem objęła Ambasada Włoch w Polsce 61 869 20 00, Tickets 125-165zł available at www.

Partnerem wydarzenia jest Instytut Włoskiego w Warszawie w ramach Tygodnia Języka Włoskiego na Świecie Goścmi wydarzenia będą Guia Farinelli Mascagnii Franceska Albertini Mascagni COMITATO PROMOTORE MAESTRO PIETRO MASCGANI. makrokoncert.com, www.makroconcert.com/pl.

Przed koncertem zostanie wyswietlony film dokumentalny o Pietro Mascagnim.

W foyer Teatru wystawione zostaną pamiątki po kompozytorze: rękopisy, stroje, listy itp.

08.12 19:00, 10.12 18:00, 12.12 19:00 » THE BALTIC LEGEND

www.opera.poznan.pl / +48 61 85 20 825; + 48 61 65 90 228 / www.bilety.opera.poznan.pl

22 Poznań In Your Pocket

Two rivals, Doman the fisherman and Lubor the merchant, seek to marry Bogna. Her father, favouring the wealthy Lubor, sends Doman off to find the ring of Jūratė, the legendary ruler of a sunken city, hoping to never see him again... Nearly a hundred years after its premiere, Feliks Nowowiejski’s The Baltic Legend iyp.me/poznan

What’s On returns to the composer’s hometown to be staged at the Poznań Opera House in honour of his 140th birthday. The author of the the Quo Vadis oratorio and music to the famed patriotic poem Rota, Nowowiejski created The Baltic Legend inspired by the Slavic legend of the sunken city Vineta. Abounding in folk motifs, and with a romantic plot filled with twists, turns, and monumental choir parts, the fairy-tale story of water nymphs, demons, and marine depths will be revived by choreographer Robert Bondara.QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, Tickets 12-130zł available at www.opera.poznan.pl or in box office, www.opera.poznan.pl.

10.12 » HÖGNI: TWO TRAINS (PREMIERE)

Icelandic musical treasure Högni will be bringing his beautiful talents to three Polish cities this year, Poznań being one of them. In 2008, he and his indie rock band were crowned the “best debut artist” and “best singersongwriter” titles at the 2008 Icelandic Music Awards— which are basically the Icelandic version of the Grammys.

In 2009, their second album won the “album of the year” title. To call Högni a musical prodigy would be to do the years he spent honing his craft a disservice—after mastering the violin in his younger years, he taught himself to play on the guitar and then moved on to the piano, focusing on harmonies and improvisations in jazz and also training his voice in years of choir practice—all this before the age of 21. In other words, go see him.

QScena na Piętrze, ul. Masztalarska 8. Tickets 49zł available at www.biletomat.pl.

ST. MARTIN’S DAY

11.11 » ST. MARTIN’S DAY

For Poznań, November 11th is not only Polish Independence Day, but also St. Martin’s Day - a holiday that has been celebrated here since the Medieval times. The festival in its current form has been around since 1994, and takes the form of “St. Martin Street Name Day”, taking place on ul. Św. Marcin and involving a colourful parade, pleasant kitsch, and literal tonnes of special pimped-out croissants. For more on the saint and the holiday, check out iyp.me/stmartin. iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018

23

What’s On 02.02, 03.02, 20.04, 21.04 19:00 » ANNA KARENINA

Leo Tolstoy convincing and deeply psychological portrait of a woman who longs for passion in a society regulated by conventions was turned into a ballet by Russian composer and pianist Rodion Shchedrin in 1971. The vastly impressive score mirrors the wealth of emotional and psychological undertones of the characters’ feelings and passions. The choreography rests with the Grand Theatre’s ballet director, Tomasz Kajdański, who specialises in teaching acting to dancers, as well as in combining the classical and modern schools of movement.QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, Tickets 12-130zł available at www.opera.poznan.pl or in box office, www.opera.poznan.pl.

03.02 » PASIÓN DE BUENA VISTA

Would you be up for a little Cuban getaway without actually leaving Poland? Yeah, you would! If you’ve seen Buena Vista Social Club, loved it, and have been known to jam out to the soundtrack every now and then, you’ll want to check out Pasion de Buena Vista live in concert.

The group of spirited vocalists, musicians and dancers set the stage on fire, bringing the Cuban heat with them.

Pasion de Buena Vista will transport you to the streets of Havana, they’ll bring you to the most sublime islands of the Caribbean, and they’ll steal you away for a night of true Cuban-style happiness.QTickets139-199zł available at www.makroconcert.pl, www.eventim.pl, www.ebilet.pl, www.makroconcert.com/pl.

18.02, 20.02 19:00 » RIGOLETTO

Verdi’s timeless opera Rigoletto – a tragic tale of jealousy, vengeance, and sacrifice – was based on Victor Hugo’s 1832 play Le roi s’amuse. The composer was apparently so pleased with it, that on the opera’s opening night he claimed he probably wouldn’t write anything better.

While Il trovatore and La traviata would soon follow, arguably invalidating his statement, Rigoletto does remain an operatic staple, with “La donna è mobile” forever entrenched in the collective consciousness - and a favourite of advertisers selling Italian products, from what we’ve experienced. Performed in the original Italian with Polish supertitles.QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, Tickets 12-130zł available at www.opera.poznan.pl or in box office, www.opera. poznan.pl.

27.05, 29.05 18:00 » CARMEN

One of the absolute must-sees of the operatic world, Georges Bizet’s exotic and once-controversial Carmen is worth seeing anywhere, anytime. Denis Krief’s version, although bereft of classic costumes and set design, remains a universal tale of unchanging human passions. Performed in the original French with Polish supertitles.QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, Tickets 12-130zł available at www.opera.poznan.pl or in box office, www.opera. poznan.pl.

24 Poznań In Your Pocket

iyp.me/poznan

What’s On EXHIBITIONS 28.09 - 21.01 » FRIDA KAHLO AND DIEGO RIVERA: IN THE POLISH CONTEXT

What’s Poland got to do with it? Find out at this unique exhibit comprising over 200 works by Kahlo, Rivera and other artists related to the couple by one degree of separation. Among works on display will be portraits of Frida photographed by Nickolas Muray and Bernice Kolko, as well as pictures and works by Fanny Rabel, Frida’s student. Spoiler alert: Kolko and Rabel both have Polish roots. The exhibit will be supplemented by graphics done by modern Mexican artists who often pull inspiration from Frida’s work, as well as dedicated meetings, workshops, lectures, and courses organised by the museum.QF‑7, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, Tickets 20/25zł, www.ckzamek.pl.

14.10 - 04.02 » SMŪTKELIAI: LITHUANIAN RELIGIOUS CARVINGS FROM GEDIMINAS PETRAITIS’ COLLECTION

Religious wooden carvings, often in the form of crosses, shrines, or pillar-type chapels make up an integral part of the Lithuanian landscape. In the Lithuanian context, these popularly happened-upon carvings act as folkloric signifiers, which reference the arrival of Christianity into the country many moons ago. They often depict saints and other important religious figures, and as such, they carry with them deeply-rooted cultural and religious significance. Their significance runs so deep, in fact, that the artists and sculptors who crafted them were often referred to as dievadirbiai, or “god-carvers.” The exhibit will present 50 sculptures and carvings dating back to the 19th- and early 20th-century.QI‑7, Archaeological Museum, ul.

Wodna 27 (Pałac Górków), tel. (+48) 61 852 82 51, Admission 8/4zł, family ticket 20zł. Sat free. Guided tours by prior arrangement 70zł. Free audio guides avaliable in English, www.muzarp.poznan.pl.

24.10 - 21.01 » GUNTHER VON HAGENS’ BODY WORLDS: VITAL

Body Worlds is a large-scale exhibition devoted to the ins and outs of the human anatomy. The exhibition is brought to you by anatomist Gunther von Hagens who invented plastination, a special technique for preserving biological tissue. Over 45 million people have already passed through the trails of this large-scale exhibition, featuring authentic human bodies as specimens along with multimedia installations highlighting the complexities and inner workings of the fabric of our physical being. This exhibit will show you the difference between how the human organism functions in sickness and in health—and will make you think twice about your next Lazy Sunday peppered with chocolate bars and buttered popcorn.

QTickets 30-60zł, www.bodyworlds.pl/en.

/polandinyourpocket iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018

25

Cafés

Buckwheat crêpes at Petit Paris.

CAFE GOŁĘBNIK Tucked away in a splendid courtyard demarcated by whitetiled townhouses, ‘The Dovecote’ is a cosy nook where you can curl up with a book and some tea on a rainy day or enjoy the outdoor seating if sunny skies prevail. Decorated in unobtrusive shabby-chic style, this cafe always has a selection of tasty treats on hand and even started serving light lunches.QI‑7, ul. Wielka 21, tel. (+48) 61 853 42 30.

Open 10:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. T­S­W CAFE LA RUINA Completely unique and infused with the owners’ love for travel, food, and coffee, Cafe La Ruina and neighbouring Raj (which serves more substantial meals) are a major draw in this part of town. Both the quirky, warm decor and the friendly atmosphere just can’t be beaten.QL‑6, ul. Śródka 3, tel. (+48) 666 15 25 55. Open 11:00 - 21:00. T­6­ U­G­S­W CAFE STRAGAN Obnoxious in principle, but perfectly warm and inviting in actuality, Stragan adheres to some stringent self-imposed rules, including a non-negotiable no-americano policy (they also refuse to make scrambled eggs). Instead, they’re committed to serving top-notch alternatively-brewed coffee, using all the new-fangled (or just currently trendy) methods like drip-brewing, aeropress, Chemex, and siphon; boxes of equipment are displayed on the back wall and available for sale, as are coffee beans. The dedication shows: their coffee was among the best we’ve tasted, so give it a go if you’re a caffeine enthusiast. Light breakfast is served as well.QG‑7, ul. Franciszka Ratajczaka 31, tel. (+48) 789 23 39 65, www.craftcoffee.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. T­6­U­G­S­W 26 Poznań In Your Pocket

COCORICO Couples wallow under starlight in a backyard that’s potted with plants and almost grotto-like in magic (they’ve even won an award for the space, which is closed in winter).

There’s no doubt about it, it’s a garden of memories.

If the sun falls out of the sky seek shelter inside where a topsy-turvy interior comes sprinkled with chintz. Recently expanded to include a restaurant in an adjacent room.

QI‑7, ul. Świętosławska 9, tel. (+48) 61 852 95 29, www. cocorico.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.

Closed Mon. T­6­U­G­S­W PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIE A prime location on the ground floor of Poznań’s bustling Stary Browar shopping complex means that this cafe/ boulangerie is never short of customers looking to take a break from their latest spending spree. The interior is smart but informal, and the friendly staff busy themselves serving up everything from fresh coffees and teas to crepes, tarts, pastries, and freshly-baked French bread. For those looking for something a little more substantial there’s an excellent breakfast selection, daily soups, and a range of lunches to line your stomach before sampling one of their wines. Bon appétit!QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

U­G­S­W NEW PROJEKT WILSON Just outside Wilson Park, Projekt Wilson is the perfect cosy hideaway for enjoying a mug of hot tea and a plate of something sweet while exploring Łazarz. Exposed brick walls, high ceilings, and plenty of natural light create a comfy and homey space, and the menu offers plenty of iyp.me/poznan

Cafés light lunch choices - baguettes, soups, salads, and more.

Breakfast is served all day. With a great ambience and leafy (or snowy) view, this is our go-to in this part of town.QB‑9, ul. Matejki 56, tel. (+48) 504 96 96 56. Open 09:00 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

PTASIE RADIO Named after “The Bird Radio,” a famous children’s poem by Julian Tuwim, this rustic cafe really commits to the theme with subtle murals, vintage bird cages, and bird-shaped figurines. The large selection of unique, seasonal hot and cold drinks (lemonades, hot chocolates, smoothies, coffees, and the like) might be the primary draw, but it’s not all Ptasie Radio also offers breakfasts (free coffee included, served until noon), lunches, and delicious chocolate cake.

QF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 74/3, tel. (+48) 61 853 64 51, www. ptasieradio.pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. T­6­S­W RÓŻOVE Walking through the door of this establishment is like stepping into a close friend’s super trendy kitchen, except the friend is an insane baker with a glass case full of glorious fresh cakes. Featuring an odd but inviting open layout, friendly and easygoing staff, and a pink theme that stays strictly within the limits of good taste at all times, Róźove is part cafe, part trinket shop, and all cosy hang-out.QI‑7, ul. Wodna 23, tel. (+48) 725 01 00 77, www.rozove.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.

6­U­G­S­W UN POT You’d think utilizing all the stereotypically hip-n-cool paraphernalia of modern-day hipster locales - like wooden pallets, whitewashed brick, and mason jars (hence the name) - would turn this place into one big fat (cool) cliche, but the rustic decor is absolutely fresh, cozy, and pretty darn unique. With gentle mood music and an all-around calming ambience, this is the perfect place to eat a light breakfast, chat over coffee, or try out one of the “1001” flavors of beer, like cotton candy, watermelon, cucumber, or pistachio. One word of warning - they tend to close an hour or two early if business is slow.QH‑7, ul. Sieroca 5/6, tel. (+48) 662 27 74 25. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. G­S­W ZEMSTA ANARCHIST BOOKSHOP & CLUB Get to know the Anarchists - a group that is perhaps more bookish, organised, and vegan than you imagined. As far from a shady, rambunctious squat as you can get, at first glance this place might look like an ordinary (vegan) lunch bar, cafe, and bookstore well-stocked with high-quality journalism and travel writing, but walk up to the counter and you will find pamphlets attempting to convince casual picker-uppers that in their heart of hearts they’re anarchists too. Strike up a conversation with one of the patrons or pop in for an anarchist event to better appreciate what an unlikely outlet this movement has found here.QF‑7, ul.

Fredry 5/3A, tel. (+48) 61 823 25 63, www.zemsta.org.

Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. 6­N­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

BREAKFAST 239 Cosy breakfast spots abound in this city, and 239 is one of the best - a warm industrial-chic hideaway sharing space with an architectural design studio and serving up an all-vegetarian array of morning porridge, ciabattas, omelettes, and other seasonally-changing options. The coffee is splendid and a daily special lunch is served as well; the one drawback is the walk needed to get here from the city centre, but use this as your opportunity to explore Poznań’s lesser-known Łazarz district. Heartily recommended.QA‑11, ul.

Sczanieckiej 10/2, tel. (+48) 665 11 77 03. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. (15-18zł).

T­6­G­S­W BAGELS & FRIENDS A smart, airy eatery located inside a small shopping arcade on the City Park complex just west of the centre. While the complex is built around a hotel, offices and apartments, it is likely that it will be its eateries that will make its name. Bagels & Friends maintains the high standard with a menu of bagel sandwiches, soups, and hearty lunches. A wide range of teas and coffees - served in very generously-sized mugs - are also on offer, with the 08:00 workday opening time meaning you can start your day the NY way.QA‑10, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26, tel. (+48) 61 222 39 40, www.bagelsandfriends.pl. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (1449zł). T­6­U­G­S­W PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIE A perfect breakfast option, where the most important meal of the day is served all day.

Choose from French classics like croque madame, crepes, croissant sandwiches, tartines and more all made from authentic French ingredients, and delicious fresh bread that is baked on-site.QH‑9, ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. (1020zł). U­G­S­W PROJEKT KUCHNIA Combine this with Petit Paris and apparently Stary Browar is the place in Poznań to start the day. Breakfast options here are plentiful, healthy and eco-minded in terms of the ingredients - eggs come from free range chickens, rice, almond and soy milk are available, as is fresh-squeezed orange juice. Choose from omelettes, scrambled eggs, yoghurt with granola, porridge, and more, including some vegan, gluten-free, and dairyfree options.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 606 99 29 99, www.projektkuchnia.pl.

Breakfast served 09:00 - 12:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00.

(16-26zł). T­U­G­S­W November 2017 - February 2018

27

Restaurants

Fancy appetisers at Kraft (p.33).

Poznań might have a reputation as an international centre of commerce, but its restaurant scene has only recently started taking off, with a scattering of world-class restaurants and an increasing number of good ethnic options. While In Your Pocket once listed every venue in the city, the explosion of the market and its sheer redundancy now makes that pursuit impossible. Our print guide carries a wide selection of what we feel are Poznań’s most noteworthy restaurants, however there are many more listed on our website (poznan.inyourpocket.com) where we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the places you’ve visited.

All our reviews are updated regularly, completely subjective and unsolicited. The figures we quote in brackets represent the cheapest and costliest main courses on the menu. The opening hours are verified as we send this guide off to the printer, but keep in mind that they’re subject to change.

Where the venue is not on our map we have included the district where it is located in brackets. Below is a selection of recommendations depending on what you may be looking for.

SPLURGE Any ‘best of’ list in Poznań is invariably going to see a slew of nominations for Blow Up Hall 5050 (p.31), where you’ll find very modern versions of Polish cooking in an impossibly cutting edge neo-industrial setting. For upmarket close to the market square, try Ratuszova (p.40). For something out of the centre head to the daringly modern SPOT. (p.34).

28 Poznań In Your Pocket

COUPLES Restauracja MUGA (p.34), and its attached Casa De Vinos wine bar (p.48), is the perfect place to impress your date, while Figaro (p.36) is so over-the-top you half expect to be served by Cupid himself. For something completely different, think of all the naughty things you can do under the table in the pitch black of Dark Restaurant (p.35).

POLISH By popular vote, the market square’s Ratuszova (p.40) is the best Polish food you’ll find in Poznań, and served in one of the most elegant interiors you’ve ever eaten in. In contrast, Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem (p.40) and Wiejskie Jadło (p.40) do traditional interpretations of Polish food in rustic environs, while the hip Kuchnia Wandy (p.39) and Na Winklu (p.40) prefer a more contemporary twist.

QUICK EATS For a speedy but tasty meal that will leave you with more time for sightseeing, try the curries at Thai Fast Wok (p.42), pho at PHOBAR (p.29), ramen at Ramen-Ya (p.37) or our Vegetarian listings starting on p.42.

SPECIAL DIET Our Vegetarian listings are on p.42, but you’ll also find tasty vegan and gluten-free dishes in Shivaz (p.30), Projekt Kuchnia (p.34) and SPOT. (p.34). If it’s Polish food you’re after, Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem (p.40) will adapt any of their dishes exactly to your dietary needs and desires. iyp.me/poznan

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY G No smoking

T Child-friendly

6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

S Take away

U Facilities for the disabled

V Home delivery

X Smoking room available

E Live music

W Wi-fi connection

I Fireplace

o Year-Round Garden

ul. Podgórna 6 Poznań 61-829 tel. +48 61 850 14 20 /PoznanDrukarnia

AMERICAN SOMEPLACE ELSE Some baulk at the prices, but there’s no escaping that Someplace Else is the full monty – here’s a place that gets both food and drink completely right, with a largely American menu of burgers and steaks; sometimes that’s just what you need. The diner design is straight out of roadtrip USA, and a great spot for ties-off, after-office chow, and beers. With 9 TVs, this is also one of your best bets for catching that match - be it European or American.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (21-265zł). T­Y­U­G­W

ASIAN PHOBAR More like Berlin in Poznań rather than Hanoi in Poznań, and the local cool kids aren’t complaining. Big bowls of beautiful pho bo, pho bo vien, and a vegan alternative are served amid loud dubstep to hip youth seated at communal tables; the exposed-brick interior and party garlands complete the stylish atmosphere. The broth might not be the most flavourful, but a splash of sriracha and fish sauce from strategically placed bottles resolve the issue to an extent. Those pining for other Vietnamese specialties can enjoy nem rolls, banh mi, bun cha, and splendid coffee with condensed milk.QB‑6, ul.

Wawrzyniaka 19, tel. (+48) 501 97 39 74. Open 12:00 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. (16-25zł). T­S­W RAJ Perhaps the most uniquely decorated venue in town, Raj (Paradise) is a cross between a Southeast Asian street eatery, grandma’s kitchen, hipster hang-out, and what you do to your room after coming home with one too many travel souvenirs - and it’s absolutely delightful. The voyage-inspired menu leans Asian and is printed out on postcards, and those who haven’t managed to get a table can munch away in the back-room cinema, which provides both additional seating and the occasional film screening.

Do keep in mind that you might have to grab a server by the ankle to get their attention; the place gets busy.

Recommended.QL‑6, ul. Śródka 3, tel. (+48) 666 15 25 55. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (25-39zł). T­6­U­G­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018

29

Restaurants FUSION

Join us for Sunday Brunch Exquisite buffet with Polish and international specialties.

Dishes prepared by our chefs based on your individual preferences.

Every Sunday from 1 PM until 5 PM. 130 PLN per person.

Discounts for children.

Sheraton Poznan Hotel 3/9 Bukowska Str., Poznań www.fusion-poznan.pl 30 Poznań In Your Pocket

DRUKARNIA SKŁAD WINA & CHLEBA POZNAŃ Despite being within spitting distance of the Rynek, Podgórna isn’t the most fashionable street in Poznań, so we were pleasantly surprised to discover this trendy eatery and cafe. Fresh sourdough bread is baked before your eyes in the minimal-chic interior, and the menu comprises not only a range of sandwiches, soups, and appetisers to complement the bakery, but also a full card of rich and colourful fusion creations to complement the upmarket tastes of the wine list. Everything from the kitchen looks like it could be featured in a food art magazine (in fact they sometimes offer workshops on food photography), and overall Drukarnia is evidence of just how far the city’s culinary scene has come on in the past few years. Pop in for a delicious 12-18zł breakfast Mon-Fri between 7:00 and 12:00, weekends 10:00-13:00. New artwork (available for purchase) appears on the walls every month or so.QH‑7, ul. Podgórna 6, tel. (+48) 61 850 14 20, www.winoichleb. com. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (15-79zł). T­6­U­G­S­W FUSION RESTAURANT Top class dining in the Sheraton’s showpiece restaurant.

Chic and sexy: this is designer dining the way it’s meant to be with inventive dishes like Thai-style noodles appearing from out of the open kitchen. Floor-to-ceiling windows allow for plenty of light, as well as views of the proletariat scurrying to work. Also of interest is their intimate Wine Tower, which can be booked in advance for up to 4 people to enjoy a menu created with the chef and over 60 types of wine.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.fusion-poznan.pl. Open 06:30 - 10:30, Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 13:00 - 17:00. (29-130zł).

T­Y­U­G­W

INDIAN SHIVAZ Regular readers of our Poznań guide will know that the city has had some issues with ethnic food over the years, none so much as Indian. Not here though. If it’s Indian you want then this is the recommended place in this city, though because of the paucity of the competition that’s not the plaudit it might sound. 19/24zł lunches from 12:00 till 15:30 Mon-Fri include both a vegetarian and meat option.

Definitely try their mango lassi - a small cup costs only 5zł.

QF‑7, ul. Mielżyńskiego 16/3A (entrance from ul. 27 Grudnia), tel. (+48) 61 855 75 57. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (24-34zł). V­G­S­W TAJ INDIA For those staying in the centre, it’s easy to overlook Taj India due to its location up at Lake Malta. But if a walk around Malta is on your to-do list then you could do a lot worse than pop in for a bite to eat. Granted, from the outside it doesn’t look like much, but the inside decor is authentic without being too over the top and the staff are extremely iyp.me/poznan

Restaurants helpful. The menu provides all you’d expect from an Indian restaurant, including chicken vindaloo, lamb boti, a good selection of veggie options, and all the extras - naans, beers, poppadoms, and the like - required to supplement the meal.Qul. Wiankowa 3, tel. (+48) 61 876 62 49, www.tajindia.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (23-46zł). T­U­ G­S­W

INTERNATIONAL 3 KOLORY Overlooking Lake Malta, 3 Kolory is a bright, modern, and welcoming restaurant which is definitely worthy of a visit despite its location on the far side of the lake. The menu caters to all tastes (salads, fish, steaks, pizzas) and the dishes are so beautifully presented (steaks served on cedar planks!) that it’s almost a shame to have to eat them. But don’t let that stop you. The food is cooked via the sous vide technique (low temps) and on grill stones to create unique flavours. The karkówka steak would be our personal recommendation, but to be fair every dish being brought out of the kitchen looked tempting, and a return visit is certainly on the cards. 3 Kolory recently opened another location at Obornicka 55A (Suchy Las), where they serve lunch meals.Qul. Wiankowa 3, tel. (+48) 501 40 28 27, www.3-kolory.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (20-69zł). T­6­U­V­G­ o­S­W BIERHALLE This familiar tourist-friendly franchise lives up to its name, bringing its Oktoberfest atmosphere to Poznań’s Posnania Shopping Centre. At Bierhalle they brew their own, offering 3 different ales most commonly ordered by the litre, but you can also go gorilla with a 5l barrel. The beer-friendly franchise menu consists of German bratwurst, ribs, pork knuckle, and other meaty feasts with fries, the busty servers in faux-folk costumes look like they’ve just finished milking the cows, and TVs stream sports to complete the lads magnet appeal.QM‑10, ul. Pleszewska 1 (Posnania), tel. (+48) 508 80 07 55, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 10:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (10-60zł).

T­6­G­S­W BLOW UP HALL 5050 Blow Up 5050 is a combination of gastronomy and art that will blow your socks off. The name is a combination of the 1966 Antonioni thriller combined with the owner’s philosophy of making all her enterprises 50% art and 50% business. Complementing the award winning hotel and bar is the restaurant, where prices are at the very top end of the Poznań market, as is the quality. The seasonal cuisine - crafted by Top Chef Poland winner Tomasz Purol - is superb, and the surroundings will leave you feeling you’ve become part of a living art exhibition, making it a truly unique experience in Poland, and perhaps even Europe.

QG‑9, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 90, www. blowuphall5050.com. Open 14:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (20-130zł). T­U­G­W iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018

31

Restaurants BO.POZNAN The perfect brunch/coffee+newspaper spot, Bo.Poznan is frequented by couples in ironic t-shirts, three-generation families out for a festive breakfast, and caffeine-guzzling laptoppers alike. Turning a below-street-level location into a cosy advantage, Bo. not only is homey enough that you might keep postponing your day’s activities to sit a while longer, they also serve ample portions of early- and midday food for very reasonable prices. Recommended.QF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 84, tel. (+48) 61 226 78 65. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 20:00, Sun 09:30 - 19:00. (24-34zł).

T­Y­6­G­S­W

PASSION FOR FOOD Wodna 3/4, 61-781 Poznań Phone +48 61 852 49 95 www.lavenda-cafelunch.pl

DECODING THE MENU Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego!

(Enjoy your meal!) śniadania breakfast zupa soup przystawki appetisers dania główne main dishes dodatki side dishes ziemniaki potatoes kapusta cabbage ser cheese chleb bread warzywa vegetables owoce fruit mięso meat kurczak chicken wieprzowina pork wołowina beef ryba fish deser dessert ciasto cake lody ice cream napoje drinks kawa coffee piwo beer 32 Poznań In Your Pocket

BROVARIA Go formal and pick the right-hand room for a smoothly subdued dining area or else do as the rank-and-file and head either to the brewing hall out back, the bar to the side, or the al fresco terrace. Brovaria have something for everyone, with the premium prices reserved for a tender fillet steak served with a separate bowl of swirly mashed potatoes. Or consider tucking into the beer feast – essentially a huge platter piled inches high with a mix of seafood and meat. Not for nothing have Brovaria been crowned king of the expatriate scene.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www. brovaria.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (2364zł). T­G­S­W

/polandinyourpocket CONCORDIA TASTE A long-standing editorial favourite, thanks to their willingness to buck trends and try something different.

The design is what you would call post-industrial and the clientele sharp-dressed and out to impress. The food comes beautifully presented by efficient staff and the menu features some truly mouth-watering options. There’s now a live cooking station and Family Sundays with a supervised play area and kids’ workshops, so check out what’s on beforehand.QD‑7, ul. Zwierzyniecka 3, tel. (+48) 61 667 44 19, www.concordiataste.pl. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:30 - 22:00, Sun 09:30 - 20:00. (27-89zł). T­U­G­ S­W DĄBROWSKIEGO 42 Climb up the steps and enter what is one of the city’s more innovative and fresh-looking restaurants. The light and airy wood-filled rooms make it a great place to drool over the menu (while we weren’t able to sample everything this time, the pork tenderloin with chanterelle mushroom sauce has certainly given us an excuse to return) and a great little kids area allows you to enjoy your meal in peace.

QC‑6, ul. Dąbrowskiego 42 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 797 99 79 95, www.dabrowskiego42.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (1859zł). T­6­I­G­S­W iyp.me/poznan

Restaurants FLAVORIA Tucked away deep inside the IBB Andersia Hotel, Flavoria isn’t the type of place you just stumble across by accident.

But those willing to sniff it out will find a smart, modern restaurant with a good mixture of international cuisine ranging from standard breakfast buffets (06:30 - 11:00 daily) to more sophisticated evening dishes like braised lamb shank and scallopini shash salad. With daylight streaming through the large windows by day and dim candlelight during dinner, Flavoria is one of the city’s more formal restaurants, ideal for business lunches and other such upmarket eating occasions.QG‑9, Pl. Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 667 80 81, www.andersiahotel.pl. Open 06:30 - 11:00 for breakfast, 13:00 - 18:00 for lunch, 18:00 - 23:00 for dinner. (30120zł). T­Y­G­W KRAFT Despite the name, food rather than craft beer is the focus here, so start your microbrew adventure by lining your stomach with an assortment of fairly priced meat dishes including homemade white sausage, skirt steak, and buns with pickled pork shank. Trust us, it’s fancier and more delicious than it sounds; the decked-out burger-style sandwiches especially have earned KRAFT a loyal customer base. 20zł lunch is served Monday to Friday from 12:00 until 16:00.QD‑6, ul. Juliusza Słowackiego 27, tel. (+48) 601 45 14 24. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.

Closed Tue. (20-38zl). T­6­G­S­W LAVENDA GASTRO & CAFE There are a slew of cosy little cafes dotted around the back streets of Stary Rynek, and competition is indeed tough; Lavenda slots right in there with the very best of them, though. A relaxed atmosphere and a great array of hot drinks, wines, and light food make this the perfect place to share a lunchtime coffee or to meet for an intimate first date. Breakfast is served daily between 08:00 and 12:00 (13:00 on the weekends) and lunchtime goes from 12:30 until 16:00.QI‑7, ul. Wodna 3/4, tel. (+48) 61 852 49 95, www.lavenda-cafelunch.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. (14-34zł). T­6­G­S­W POD PRĘGIERZEM Some of the best buildings on Poznań’s Old Market Square are the old Merchant Houses and that’s exactly where you’ll find Pod Pręgierzem. For years this was Post Office Cafe, but a recent transformation has seen it aim towards those looking to grab a quick bite rather than a cup of coffee. The menu boasts plenty of breakfast options (from ‘continental’ to ‘full English’) and traditional Poznań meals like ham hock and duck. Soft music, cheery staff, and walls decked out in photos paying homage to some of the city’s finest buildings make this a fine choice. There’s even a kid’s play area downstairs which kept us entertained while we were waiting for our soup.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 25/29, tel. (+48) 61 855 00 06, www.podpregierzem.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (20-39zł).

T­6­G­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

Chef Tomasz Purol, the winner of the fifth edition of Top Chef.

The restaurant specialises in European cuisine combined with Polish tradition.

Expect an original menu featuring carefully selected fresh ingredients and a unique combination of flavours.

Blow Up Hall Restaurant Kościuszki 42; 61-891 Poznań Phone +48 61 657 99 90 Manager Restauracji Marcin Bagrowski Mob. 519 308 299 www.blowuphall5050.com

November 2017 - February 2018

33

Restaurants

Duck with dumplings and red cabbage

Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from the Franciszkańska street) tel. (+48) 618 53 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl

PROJEKT KUCHNIA Poznań’s culinary scene has come on leaps and bounds over the last couple of years and nowhere is it more evident than here. Located in the heart of the city’s bustling Stary Browar shopping centre, Projekt Kuchnia provides a sleek, sexy environment in which to enjoy some of the finest food around town. Oh, and did we mention that much of it is organic, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, or dairy-free? Though the menu doesn’t discriminate against carnivores by any stretch, those on a special diet will find their Shangri-La here, and their foodie friends will be glad they tagged along. The top quality extends from the breakfast menu to the wine list, and if you’re browsing around the Old Brewery, you can stop your search for the best place to eat - this is it.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 606 99 29 99, www. projektkuchnia.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

(35-70zł). T­U­G­S­W RESTAURACJA MUGA Located right next door to Casa de Vinos wine bar (just step through the glass door), MUGA has managed to serve up a perfect mixture of fine European food, great service, and excellent wine. The seasonal menu rivals anything else we’ve sampled and the bright, well-lit interior makes for a warm and inviting stay. A perfect spot for courting couples, business deals, and those looking to impress; first-daters should head to the far corner where intimacy is almost encouraged.QH‑8, ul. Krysiewicza 5, tel. (+48) 61 855 10 35, www.restauracjamuga.pl.

Open 17:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (6089zł). T­G­W RESTAURACJA PATIO PROVENCE Situated within spitting distance of the main square, this is one of Poznań’s hidden treasures. The main dining room is much like that of any restaurant, but head through the back and you find yourself in a small, beautifully-lit covered courtyard which will have you kneeling down on one knee and proposing to your darling within minutes. With rabbit, duck, and salmon tartare on the menu, there are plenty of high-brow choices, but leave some space for wine as well.

An absolute diamond, you won’t want to go anywhere after your meal.QI‑7, Pl. Kolegiacki 5 (Hotel Kolegiacki), tel. (+48) 61 855 05 05, www.patioprovence.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (22-70zł). T­U­G­W

Mickiewicza 9, Poznań Phone: +48 728 442 165

34 Poznań In Your Pocket

SPOT. Fashion, design, and cuisine collide at SPOT, a unique shopping complex set inside the beautifully restored late 19th-century Wilda power station, which is surrounded by a lovely green park. Home to several shops and services, including a fashion boutique, hairdresser, spa, and photo studio, it all serves as mere garnish for the excellent restaurant, which should be your main motivation for visiting. Sporting a smart post-industrial swagger with monochrome colours, exposed bricks, and retro kitsch decor, the atmosphere is inspired, and the menu offers sophisticated European cuisine accented by exotic Asian iyp.me/poznan

Restaurants flavours, including vegetarian and gluten-free dishes.

With craft beer, a large selection of wines, and their own sommelier, this is Poznań at its cutting edge best. Kids will love it as much as you do - there’s a trampoline in the garden and staff organise a scavenger hunt of sorts to keep the little ones occupied.Qul. Dolna Wilda 87, tel. (+48) 61 835 88 40, www.spot.poznan.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. (32-70zł). T­Y­U­G­S­W THE TIME Located in Poznań’s posh Młyńska 12 business centre, the result of the refurbishment of a fin de siècle building designed by architect Oskar Hoffman, The Time meets the standards of its high-profile guests. Perfect for impressing both business partners and dates, they serve a menu of simple yet high-quality dishes including seafood risotto, duck with gnocchi and red cabbage, and chump of lamb with couscous. Over 150 various bottled of wine can be fetched from the cellar by the waiter, and live piano music adds to the ritzy experience on Fridays and Saturdays from 19:00 until 22:00.QG‑6, ul. Młyńska 12, tel. (+48) 61 627 03 07, www.mlynska12.pl/restauracja-the-time. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (3681zł). T­E­G­S WERANDA LUNCH & WINE Weranda is a restaurant worthy of its setting at the confluence of the old and new portions of the vast Stary Browar shopping centre, with an open two-story skylit space (what the hell are those colourful things hanging from the ceiling?) that is breathtaking even in a building that’s known for its architecture. If upscale mall dining exists then Weranda has perfected it, with a daily lunch menu (27zł from 12:00 till the food runs out) that can include anything from pasta to grilled meat to whatever strikes the chef’s fancy. All of it can be paired with wine, easily making shopping an afterthought.QG‑9, ul.

Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 859 69 69, www.werandafamily.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (30-79zł). T­U­ G­o­S­W ZIELONA WERANDA Not the easiest place to find despite being only a stone’s throw from the square, which makes its discovery (head into what looks like a shop to find it tucked away at the back) even more of a pleasant surprise. Clearly a labour of love as reflected by beautiful paper decorations set against the mismatch of wooden furnishings, exposed brick, and copious shrubbery. Spread over a number of small rooms, Zielona Weranda is one of our favourite lunch spots with a tasty, well-prepared range of soups, salads, breakfast sandwiches, and snacks. The tea, coffee, and cake options are so encyclopaedic, the harder aspect of spending time here is deciding what to have. Opening hours may be subject to change.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 851 32 90, www.werandafamily.com. Open 10:00 21:00. (30-49zł). Y­6­U­G­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

RistoRante FigaRo ul. ogrodowa 17, 61-821 Poznań tel. +48 61 856 01 89 www.restauracjafigaro.eu figaro@restauracjafigaro.eu

DARK RESTAURANT “Adventurous” isn’t a word we often like to pair with the word “dining” (after all, that’s how folks on reality TV end up eating spiders), but this place proves to be the exception. As its name implies, Dark Restaurant is devoted to having diners eat their dinner in inky blackness. We’re not talking mood lighting, either; the cavernous room is so dark that the waiters actually wear night vision goggles. The idea behind Dark Restaurant is that by impairing your sense of sight, you enhance your other senses, which makes for a more exciting dining experience. It’s also a great excuse to eat with your hands, because utensils are completely useless without the benefit of eyesight. Each of the menu themes - bizarre food, mood food, and a more standard option - comes with a variety of courses, and you aren’t told what you’re digging into until the meal is over. All these factors add up to a messy and intriguing meal that will have you guessing with every bite. Sure, some of the foods are obvious, but basil ice cream? Oranges with sea salt? Your tongue will undoubtedly be tantalized. Fortunately, your meal ends with a chance to talk with your waiter and the head chef, who delight in making you guess what you ate.QI‑7, ul. Garbary 48, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 57, www.darkrestaurant.pl.

Open 16:00 - 21:30, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. (80-190zł).

6­G­W November 2017 - February 2018

35

Restaurants ITALIAN BAR A BOO Looking for Poznań’s best pizzeria? Look no further. To be honest, labelling this place a pizzeria is a bit of a cop out as the menu also offers up breakfasts, macaroni dishes, and salads, and the smart, elegant interior rivals some of the city’s better restaurants. A good mixture of wines to order by the glass or bottle and plenty of beers and spirits mean that if you’re coming here to line your stomach, the inevitable ul. Taczaka pub crawl may kick off later than you planned.QF‑8, ul. Taczaka 11, tel. (+48) 61 883 43 15, www.baraboo.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Mon 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (10-30zł). T­U­G­ S­W FIGARO Romantic repasts and serious business dinners take place amongst these starched tablecloths and vases of flowers.

Prices are steep, but well within the spending power of most Western visitors. Diners can choose from a large list of pastas, beef tenderloin, veal, and an expansive wine list. What Figaro is famous for though is its fresh fish and seafood, which is said to be among the best in the city.

Those wanting to really push the boat out may wish to take advantage of the restaurant’s VIP room, which can be hired out for those extra special occasions. Kitchen closes at 22:00 Mon-Sat, so don’t leave your culinary feast till the last minute.QG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 856 01 89, www.restauracjafigaro.eu. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. (28-85zł). T­6­G­S­W MILANO RISTORANTE An interior of polished woods, potted palms, and crisp linen is the backdrop for one of the best meals in Poznań. The waiters are immaculate, the cooking creative. The prices can be steep, but you’re rewarded with seafood choices and excellent lamb.QD‑3, Al. Wielkopolska 42, tel. (+48) 61 852 87 45, www.milano.poznan.pl. Open 12:30 22:00, Sun 12:30 - 19:00. (18-130zł). T­G­S MOLLINI This charming Italian venture sets itself apart by letting the food speak for itself with simple dishes that will knock you out. We aren’t kidding about the simple – your pasta can be as basic as spaghetti with olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, and parmesan, and in your snobbier moments you might think it’s something you could easily do at home (you can’t).

Even the straightforward grilled veggies seem elevated somehow. An Italian restaurant delightfully free of cliché, but full of flavour. Stop by during lunch (Mon-Fri 12:00 17:00) for some savings on your bill.QG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 34, tel. (+48) 61 852 53 33, www.mollini.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (20-60zł). T­G­S­W

Read more reviews online: poznan.inyourpocket.com 36 Poznań In Your Pocket

iyp.me/poznan

Restaurants PIANO BAR RESTAURANT & CAFE Attached to the side of the Stary Browar shopping mall, Piano Bar rates as one of the top options in Poz. The background aesthetics are fantastic, with a recent NYCstyle renovation and striking art exhibitions. Although you’ll find all the expected Italian pasta and Mediterranean dishes, it’s the fish that tends to steal the show here, which is something of a boon in landlocked Poznań.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.pianobar.poznan.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (28-120zł). T­Y­U­ E­G­S­W

JAPANESE GOKO RESTAURACJA JAPOŃSKA Goko should shorten their name to Go: it’s good, and that’s all you need know. Since relocating to ul. Pasaż Apollo, Goko has become the one-and-only destination for traditional Japanese meals, serving fresh fish and sushi in stylish surroundings, supplemented by a fantastic seasonal garden. Can’t decide what to order? Discounts apply to various dishes and drinks depending on when you visit ask the staff for recommendations, then sit back and enjoy Poznań from a slightly different view than you’d get from the main market square.QG‑8, ul. Ratajczaka 18 (Pasaż Apollo), tel. (+48) 61 639 06 39, www.goko.com.pl.

Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (20-90zł). T­G­ S­W KURO BY PANAMO The tendency in Poland is for a new cuisine to be launched and then a procession of new restaurants to open all serving pretty much the same ‘fashionable’ cuisine. Here Kuro have taken the cuisine of a few years ago – Sushi – and mixed it with the cuisine of the last year – Thai. The results to be fair are very, very good and the ul. Wodna location means you won’t have to go far to find it. Find both hot and cold Japanese dishes and some very tasty Thai in a handsome room with remarkably friendly people working there.QI‑7, ul. Wodna 8/9, tel. (+48) 61 887 04 30, www.kurosushi. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (2250zł). T­V­G­S­W NEW RAMEN-YA This hole-in-the-wall might be tiny, awkwardly furnished, and somewhat rudimentary, but boy, is the ramen good.

After the success of Yetztu on ul. Krysiewicza it looked like Poznań didn’t need any more ramen joints, and yet these boys came along and knocked the ball out of the park again. The menu consists of shoyu, shio, kimchi, and mazamen ramen (in meaty and vegan versions), plus snacks like bao buns; the cooks know their stuff and food arrives super fast. While not exactly the place for an extended sit-down, this is one of our favourite spots for a quick bite of something good.QC-5, ul. Kościelna 4, tel. (+48) 731 09 73 58. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (10-25zł).

6­V­G­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

TIPPING TRIBULATIONS Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back.

This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and the payment.

Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity).

As such, we encourage you to reward good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change.

November 2017 - February 2018

37

Restaurants

Korean-Japanese cuisine Circular sushi bar

y Happ

hour

12:00 - 17:00

All week!

sushi Buffet Eat all you want 60zł per person

YETZTU Ramen, ramen, ramen - the best in Poznań, in fact (though that notion is now being challenged with the arrival of Ramen-Ya in Jeżyce). Decorated with assorted cutsey Japanese paraphernalia - beckoning cats, anime figurines, worried-looking bake-danuki - Yetztu offers rather legitimate takoyaki and several versions of the beloved noodles, including a vegetarian/vegan one. The tiny spot is hugely popular with local hipsters, so reservations are recommended.QH‑8, ul. Bolesława Krysiewicza 6, tel. (+48) 61 840 17 12, www.yetztu.com. Open 14:00 - 21:00, Fri 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 20:00. (28-32zł). T­G­W NEW ZEN ON Truly foodgasmic udon served with add-ons like panko fried shrimp, duck marinated in cherry liqueur and oranges, mint lamb, quail with plum wine, truffles, and more.

Vegetarians need not stay away: vegetable-mushroom broth is available and comes with falafel and baked celery (and a healthy serving of udon, of course). Round your meal out with matcha ice cream and a cup of sencha or kukicha tea. While outside the Old Town, this beautiful space with impeccable service is nevertheless conveniently located for anyone attending a Poznań trade fair or just coming from the train station; and for udon enthusiasts (like us), this short excursion is a must.QD‑7, ul. Zwierzyniecka 3, tel. (+48) 609 11 64 50. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 20:00. (28-44zł). T­6­G­S­W ZINDO SUSHI KOREAN-JAPANESE RESTAURANT An expansion from their Warsaw and Wrocław operations, Zindo’s modern beige-heavy space still appears to be struggling to attract attention from the folks in Poznań. A lunchtime sushi buffet was the busiest we saw the place, and provides more of a bang-for-your-buck experience than the pricier dinner option. The Korean menu is a standout, and adventurous eaters can indulge in octopus, fried squid or raw fish with vegetables to test their mettle.

More traditional options like kimchi are reliably well done.

QI‑7, ul. Kramarska 15, tel. (+48) 61 853 01 78, www. zindo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (30-70zł). T­V­G­S­W

JEWISH

FREE DELIVERY WITHIN 5 KM FOR ORDERS OVER 100 ZŁ

ul. Kramarska 15, www.zindo.pl reservation (61) 853-01-78 38 Poznań In Your Pocket

LUDWIKU DO RONDLA Poznań’s classic Jewish restaurant Cymes has morphed into Ludwiku do Rondla (Ludwik to the Pan, a way of saying “make my dinner!”), which means the menu is now a mix of traditional Polish cuisine as well as the consistent Jewish dishes (like herring in marinade and a Jewish caviar) that were the hallmark of Cymes. Note that you will have to stifle a giggle while paging through the English translations of the Jewish dishes as the poultry stomachs brewed in curry have been randomly translated as “goose cunt” - unless something has changed since our last visit.QI‑7, ul.

Woźna 2/3, tel. (+48) 61 851 66 38. Open 13:00 - 22:00.

(14-32zł). T­G­S iyp.me/poznan

Restaurants MEXICAN GRINGO BAR Definitely a grab-and-go situation rather than a place for lazy lunching, this Polish chain serves up surprisingly tasty “fusion” burritos, enchiladas, quesadillas, and tacos. For those already envisioning sauerkraut heaped on a tortilla, we promise this Polish twist on Mexican food is nowhere near as shady as it sounds. ​Do exercise caution with the spice levels - we certainly overestimated our gringo palate and had a stressful time hunting down never-ending habaneros.QG‑8, ul. Piekary 25, tel. (+48) 794 23 42 54, www.gringobar.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (20-30zł).

T­6­U­V­G­S­W

POLISH BAZAR 1838 Set in the historic building that once housed (and will again someday, according to rumours) the Hotel Bazar, the name of this smart restaurant honours both the building and the year it was built. Looking far pricier from the outside than it actually is, the food scores well in the price to quality ratio, and is served by a friendly English-speaking staff. Along with imaginative interpretations of typical Polish dishes you’ll find pastas, salads and a variety of original dishes.

Definitely a place to impress without buckling the credit card, though you may have to protect the plastic from the exclusive shops nearby.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 222 68 64, www.bazar1838.pl. Open 11:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (32-89zł).

T­Y­U­G­S­W CHŁOPSKIE JADŁO Anyone who has set foot in Poland before will have most likely eaten in Chłopskie Jadło - a national chain which offers good old Polish grub at a reasonable price. This new Poznań location nails the formula, and trademark touristapproved standards like various types of pierogi, hearty cutlets, and sour rye soup in bread are as good here as you’ll find anywhere. The interior is also refreshingly modern, while retaining some folksy motifs, and a playground for kids makes this a good option for families. As is the case with most Polish restaurants, you’ll be leaving extremely filled with a smile on your face and a willingness to come back.QF‑7, ul. Fredry 12, tel. (+48) 72 510 05 25, www. chlopskiejadlo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. (10-60zł). T­U­G­S­W

TYPICAL POLISH CUISINE - SLOW FOOD

A kitchen like at mama‘s with recipes like at Granny‘s FR E E LUTEN ALSO GMENU

Poznań, ul Garbary 54 tel.: 061 851 99 70, pod-dzwonkiem@oberza.com.pl www.oberza.com.pl

ul. ul. Wojskowa Wojskowa 4 4 Poznań (next (next to to City City Park) Park) Poznań open: mon-sat mon-sat 12-23 12-23 open:

▪▪

phone: phone: + + 48 48 519 519 376 376 182 182 email: email: sushi@kyokai.pl sushi@kyokai.pl

sun 12-22 12-22 sun ▪▪ www.kyokai.pl www.kyokai.pl

DYNX Managing to feel upscale nad neighbourhood-y at the same time, Dynx is a new addition to increasingly hip Śródka, the tiny and historical district east of Cathedral Island. Created around a ‘simple plate’ philosophy (good food should be simple), this inviting locale scores high on attention to detail and warm industrial decor. Do keep in mind that opening hours are subject to change.QL‑6, ul. Ostrówek 12, tel. (+48) 61 448 54 28, www.dynxrestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (20-70zł). T­6­U­G­W iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018

39

Restaurants KUCHNIA WANDY Finally, a Polish restaurant which does not descend into tourist kitsch or need a thorough dusting. Hip and elegant, Wanda’s Kitchen does meat-heavy traditional cuisine justice with gourmet options including sous vide chicken with pearl barley, roast goose with caramelised root vegetables, and goose pierogi in goat cheese sauce, while also glamming up more questionable dishes like beef tongue.

Heartily recommended, though vegetarians will do best to stay far, far away.QF‑7, ul. Święty Marcin 76, tel. (+48) 531 31 83 99. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Fri 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. (28-58zł). T­6­U­G­W NEW NA WINKLU Plebeian boiled pierogi with meat or cheese and potatoes can be had in countless restaurants in Poznań, but Śródka’s Na Winklu (On the Corner) goes beyond, focusing on baked dumplings instead. Hide away in their small but hip interior and sample creations with unorthodox ingredients like dried tomatoes and mozzarella, liver and apple, or Mexican-style ground beef.QL‑6, ul. Śródka 1, tel. (+48) 796 14 50 04. Open 12:00 - 20:30, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (1330zł). T­6­U­G­S­W OBERŻA POD DZWONKIEM Resembling a traditional mountain lodge, ‘Under the Bell’ is bursting with giant timber beams, beautiful 200-year-old wooden furniture, rusty machinery, old pots and pans, piles of dusty books - even the barstools are fashioned out of saddles. It all contributes to a congenial rustic atmosphere, and while the menu focuses on traditional Polish fare with mouth-watering renditions of classics such as żurek soup, ribs, duck, and pierogi, the philosophy of the kitchen is hardly the throwback that the interior suggests; all dishes are gluten free and vegan options are available.QI‑7, ul.

Garbary 54, tel. (+48) 61 851 99 70, www.oberza.com.pl.

Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (23-59zł). T­6­ U­G­S­W OSKOMA Let Top Chef Poland finalist Adam Adamczak cook up a delicious meal for you (how about a rack of lamb with wild pepper and green risotto or tuna tartare?) in the understated interior of this Jeżyce eatery dedicated to the finest of fine dining. Do check out their extensive wine list as well.QD‑6, ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. (+48) 728 44 21 65, www.oskoma.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 20:00.

(30-90zł). T­G­W POD NIEBIENIEM One of the best options on the Old Town Square (generally not the place to dine if you want to retain your street cred), Pod Niebieniem serves Polish food with a contemporary twist and actually caters to vegans - score. Certified by the Wielkopolska Culinary Heritage Network and awarded at various food festivals, they pride themselves on their beef tartar, sour rye soup, and boar loin; more unusual options include the duck burger and black pasta with shrimp (not 40 Poznań In Your Pocket

so traditional, this one). A nice wine list rounds out the offer.

QH‑7, Stary Rynek 64/65, tel. (+48) 604 69 70 44, www. pod-niebieniem.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00. (26-79zł). T­U­G­S­W RATUSZOVA One of the longest established places in town and with good reason. Located right on the main square, Ratuszova serves up a vast array of healthy and modern seasonal dishes using the innovative sous vide method not found in many other Poznań restaurants. If the beautiful and unique interior doesn’t impress you (and it should) then the menu surely will. Prepare to indulge yourself with classics such as steak, roast duck with apple, veal cheeks, czernina (duck blood) soup, pierogi, and other Polish standards. A perfect spot to spoil yourself.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 55, tel. (+48) 61 851 05 13, www.ratuszova.pl.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (29-99zł). T­6­G­S­W RESTAURACJA BAMBERKA A long-standing restaurant squirreled away in the complex of buildings at the centre of the town square. Step in and you’ll find stained glass panels, floral touches, and a strong European menu that includes several local dishes. The pierogi are excellent.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 61 852 99 17, www.bamberka.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.

(32-48zł). T­G­S­W WIEJSKIE JADŁO Wiejskie Jadło is just what you expect from a Polish restaurant - a warm wooden interior, bustling staff, and big decent portions of hearty grub. We enjoyed the żurek soup and after gut-busting sausages, it’s good we didn’t have far to go - they’re located just off the market square.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from ul. Franciszkańska), tel. (+48) 61 853 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (17-55zł). T­6­U­G­S­W WSPÓLNY STÓŁ Dine with perfect strangers at the Common Table’s common table (or, for more antisocial parties, at one of the smaller ones). Serving classy takes on Polish cuisine, this welcoming, elegantly decorated lunch-and-dinner spot has a certain nice community feel.QL‑6, ul. Śródka 6, tel. (+48) 614 15 27 18, www.wspolnystol.org. Open 12:00 21:00. (29-55zł). T­6­U­G­S­W YEŻYCE KUCHNIA Yeżyce Kuchnia offers the perfect opportunity to feel like “part of the scene” and mingle with Poznan’s young, local in-crowd. The cool common room/caff-style decor might have a bit of a weird commie vibe, but combine that with an ever-changing menu of European classics and reimagined local grub and you’ll soon see why this place is a Jeżyce district favorite. During the summer months, shade-totting hipsters sit in the tiny outdoor garden playing board games and swinging on hammocks.QB‑6, ul. Szamarzewskiego 17 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 663 05 06, www.yezycekuchnia.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (15-50zł). T­6­G­S­W iyp.me/poznan

Restaurants SCANDINAVIAN LARS, LARS & LARS With a menu featuring mouth-watering options such as ribs, mussels, salmon wih chorizo and peperonata, or beef cheeks with plums in porto sauce, we were hard pushed to actually make a final choice on what meal to settle for. Scandinavian restaurant Lars, Lars & Lars is situated in the swanky City Park complex (a brisk 10 minute walk from the Sheraton and Mercure hotels) and well worth a visit. A bright and airy interior greets you as you enter and the smart but informal surroundings provide a great atmosphere for chatting to other diners as you indulge in your chosen dish.QA‑9, ul. Wojskowa 4, tel. (+48) 665 50 98 95, www.larslarslars.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (30-62zł). T­6­U­ G­S­W

SEAFOOD RESTAURACJA MOMO Taking over from the well-loved Muchos Patatos, Momo has a lot to live up to, but plays it off deftly. Pasta dishes, steaks, and salads are all on offer, but it’s the fresh seafood that really stands out with delightful and imaginative dishes created daily. The chef changes the first page of the menu each morning, and the friendly staff is more than willing to top up your wine glass. With plenty of rooms to choose from, we prefer the room to the right with the menu plastered on the wall, but for something a bit more relaxing head to the back where you can park yourself down in one of the armchairs and let off some steam - a perfect stress-free zone.QI‑7, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 501 41 51 36, www.momolovebite.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (30-70zł). T­6­G­S­W NEW RESTAURACJA SŁOŃ SEAFOOD & MORE The Elephant, despite a name more reminiscent of the jungle than the depths of the sea, is City Park’s seafood mecca, with a menu full of fresh lobster, prawns, scallops, caviar, and squid. Sleek and refined, the interior boasts a large rack of fine reds and whites to accompany your meal.

Tuesday is endless mussel day; the chef starts you off with a full pound of clammy goodness with the option to order more, all for 76zł. Choose from mussels with roquefort cheese, butter and wine, wine and tomatoes, or Provence style. If you prefer oysters, Monday is your day: platters with nine types of oysters are available for 89zł. Lunch is served on weekdays for just 29zł.QA-9, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26A/1, tel. (+48) 663 46 46 46, www.slon-seafood.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.

(35-300zł). T­6­U­V­E­G­S­W

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018

41

Restaurants STARE KOSZARY

SPANISH

Squad Whisky

NEW HAVANA CLUB POZNAŃ This restaurant, club, and cocktail bar all-in-one is bringing some Latino heat to Poznań’s main square. Choose from Cuban-inspired dishes like madama a la parrilla (grilled sea bream), pollo con verduras (chicken breast with grilled vegetables), bistec de vaca (beef steak), costillas (ribs), and the Havana burger before downing a mojito and throwing yourself into the midst of hot salsa tunes downstairs.

QH‑7, Stary Rynek 62, tel. (+48) 690 00 99 80, www. havanapoznan.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00. (24-65zł). T­6­ U­E­X­S­W

Once the barracks of the Polish light cavalry, this historical building in the City Park complex is now densely packed with gourmet restaurants, including our picks below.

KYOKAI SUSHI BAR The City Park development just to the west of the centre (past the Trade Fairs) is home to some of the city’s best eating establishments and this is true for Kyokai, one of Poznań’s most notable Japanese efforts. Laid out over two floors, Kyokai features sushi sets revolving around a circular bar, while a sushi sensei multitasks in the thick of it all. Set in a series of converted red brick buildings, the surroundings look chic and sexy, as do the clientele. Definitely one to check out, take tram 13 to the ‘Wojskowa’ stop.QA‑8, ul. Wojskowa 4 (Łazarz), tel. (+48) 519 37 61 82, www.kyokai.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (20-70zł). T­6­U­V­G­ S­W SQUAD WHISKY Top your Stare Koszary dining experience off by purchasing a little souvenir to take back home - how about a bottle of fine (Polish) whisky? Squad carries a nice selection of domestic and international hard liquor, encompassing not just whisky but also bourbon, brandy, gin, rum, and other drinks for refined folks. If you’re worried about customs allowances, drink your fill on the spot at one of their tastings.QA‑9, ul. Wojskowa 4, tel. (+48) 731 73 11 39, www.squadwhisky.pl.

Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 18:00.

NEW THAI THAI This high-end Thai chain is coming to Stare Koszary in late 2017. From fresh oysters, monkfish in red curry, and crispy duck, to classics like pad thai and mango with sticky rice, Thai Thai prepares veritable Southeast Asian feasts in a refined interior with dark wood, floral lattices, and Buddha ornaments. Top the experience off with a bottle of fine red, or try the 35zł lunches, served from 12:00 till 16:00 on weekdays.QA‑9, ul. Wojskowa 4, tel. (+48) 885 19 98 85, www.thaithai.pl/poznan.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (38-96zł). G­S­W 42 Poznań In Your Pocket

THAI THAI FAST WOK A little gem of a place if you fancy quick, simple, and tasty Thai favourites at lunch-special prices, Fast Wok was recently enlarged to accommodate more traffic. Found through an archway leading from ul. Ratajczaka, Fast Wok, while having a Pole in the open kitchen, does seem to have got the basics of this ethnic dish right, something which isn’t a given in Poland. Nasi Goreng, red and green curry, and chicken in black bean sauce are a few of the dishes on the concise menu.QG‑8, ul. Ratajczaka 18 (Pasaż Apollo), tel. (+48) 508 52 89 89, www.fastwok.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. (18-26zł). V­G­S WHY THAI FOOD & WINE Why Thai, why not? This fresh, cool, and comfortable modern restaurant refuses to bow down to the standard ‘silk road’ school of Asian interior design. An absolute insistence on using fresh ingredients, unpolluted by MSG or other flavour enhancing poisons, guarantees the dishes have a light and natural taste. The well-conceived menu is neither overly long nor cryptically complicated. We rate the beef tenderloin with tamarind sauce a ten, but for something a little different give the house speciality of duck breast with pineapple and galangal sauce a go. If you’re particularly nosy and need to know what the Thai cooks are up to try to be seated in the smaller area of the restaurant with its glass-fronted view into the kitchen.QI‑7, ul. Kramarska 7, tel. (+48) 61 818 29 11, www.whythai.pl. Open 12:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (29-59zł). T­6­U­V­S­W

VEGETARIAN VEGE PIZZA This vegetarian/vegan place with strong ties to the local anarchist scene serves up cheap and reasonably healthy personal pizzas (made with either vegan cheese or good old mozzarella), salads, vegan pasta, soup of the day, and hipster bottled drinks. While you’re waiting, kill time by playing Nintendo 64 or checking out numerous ‘alternative event’ posters lining the walls.QC‑9, ul. Głogowska 29, tel. (+48) 536 45 72 03. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (12-20zł). T­6­U­V­G­S­W iyp.me/poznan

strona tytułowa

Restaurants HOT BEER? Though the Polish winter is famous for being long and brutal, fear not, the Poles have a method for taking the bite out of this blustery season, and as you can probably guess it’s alcohol (congratulations, Kowalski). For those in need of a warm-up that wince at the thought of vodka, we have two words for you: hot beer, or ‘grzane piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas present, and others still an utter profanity. Regardless, it’s a necessary invention and a must-try (at least once) for anyone travelling in PL during the winter months.

Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ - or mulled wine - as you’ll notice by the barrel-shaped stands selling cups of it on the market square during December’s Christmas fair. The popular regional brand is Grzaniec Galicyjski and if you enjoy drinking it in public so much, you’ll be delighted to discover you can buy it in almost any alcohol shop and easily prepare it at home as well. Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...and Na zdrowie!

shopping tasting gifts vip room

NEW FALLA Falafel bowls so good, they made us want to weep. From the assorted pickles to the creamy hummus to the highly addictive seasoned pita bread, Falla churns out dishes that are not only expertly prepared, but also beautifully presented. First-timers will be wise to go for Fatima’s Hand, an impressive assortment of Falla’s best creations, which actually does come in the shape of a hand. Also on the menu: seasonal dishes taking advantage of whatever Polish greengrocers currently have to offer, wraps, shakshouka, Turkish ayran, cocktails, and more. All this in a warm and stylish interior with industrial elements, squirreled away in Poznań’s hip Jeżyce district. Recommended.QB‑6, ul.

Wawrzyniaka 19, tel. (+48) 576 95 04 73. Open 12:00 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. (14-30zł). T­G­S­W

/polandinyourpocket WYPAS Widely regarded as Poz’s best vegan haunt, Wypas is known for heaping plates of “a bit of everything”; choose your adventure from Japanese, Middle Eastern, Mexican, Polish, or Spanish - or perhaps a nice ol’ bowl of ramen or tom kha soup. Bring your eating pants (trousers for you Brits) and wrestle local plant-eaters for seats at this below-ground hole-in-the-wall.QB‑6, ul. Jackowskiego 38, tel. (+48) 796 14 41 15. (21-28zł). T­S

SQUAD WHISKY

www.squadwhisky.pl 44 Poznań In Your Pocket

iyp.me/poznan

SOPOT: Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63 info@thaithai.pl +48 58 551 11 00

WARSZAWA: Plac Teatralny 3 info@thaithai.waw.pl +48 601 81 82 83

POZNAŃ: Stare Koszary ul. Wojskowa 4 +48 885 199 885

GDAŃSK: Podgarbary 10 gdansk@thaithai.pl +48 500 411 313

Nightlife

Soaking up the Cuban atmosphere at Havana (p.52).

Poznań bars are flexible - no matter what the official closing times are, most bars and pubs will stay open until the last customer has stumbled out. Most night spots are concentrated around the Old Town Square, but also check out ul. Nowowiejskiego (G‑6) and ul. Taczaka (F/G‑8) - both of which draw students in droves. If you don’t see it listed here, visit our website - poznan.inyourpocket. com - for reviews of almost every place in town, and the opportunity to leave your comments about all of them.

Below are a few suggestions depending on what you might be looking for: SPLURGE The best cocktails in Poznań are found in Bar Susznia (p.47), which is conveniently situated close to one of the most exclusive danceterias in town - SQ (p.52). Look the part if you want to be accepted into either. If you don’t want snooty, you can easily run up your tab sipping choice monastic ales at Kriek Belgium Pub & Cafe (p.48), while Piano Bar Restaurant & Cafe (p.49) mixes luxury drinks and atmosphere for a swanky well-rounded experience.

SQUARE With so many options, Poz’s Rynek can be overwhelming.

Without doubt the most popular place is Brovaria (p.47), which regularly sees people queuing for tables in order to enjoy the in-house brewed beers. Of course it’s impossible not to mention Pacha (p.52) here - the legendary Ibiza club which has brought its international cred and celebrity crowds to Poz; good luck getting in. For the plebs, it’s the ever-popular Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa (p.49), of course.

46 Poznań In Your Pocket

LADS If you need to catch the match, Poz has a rather classy sports bar in the Sheraton’s Someplace Else (p.50).

Ministerstwo Browaru (p.48) emphasises plenty of obscure beers (including their own) for connoisseurs, while Brovaria (p.47) has excellent lagers brewed right on-site. Keep the night going in Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa (p.49), a cheap late-night eatery on the Rynek that will help you offset your hangover with piles of white sausage and pickled herring; it’s also a great place to meet the locals.

COUPLES Another vote for Bar Susznia (p.47), the best destination for seductive cocktails. If it’s entertainment you’re after check out Blue Note Jazz Club (p.50), which attracts great international performers to serenade your better half. Basilium (p.47) does an excellent job of combining cocktails with cosy spaces as well, or do some wine bar hopping using our listings starting on p.48.

ALTERNATIVE Catch an underground concert or an obscure film screening at the cultural peculiarity that is Pies Andaluzyjski (p.50), participate in the Polish craft beer obsession at Basilium (p.47), Chmielnik (p.48), and Kriek (p.48), or try a self-serve wine bar concept at Wino na Kieliszki (p.48).

Where’s the party? facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket iyp.me/poznan

Nightlife SYMBOL KEY N Credit cards not accepted G No smoking U Facilities for the disabled 6 Animal friendly X Smoking room available

E Live music

o Year-Round Garden

W Wi-fi connection

I Fireplace

BARS & PUBS BAR SUSZNIA Whoa, if there’s one place that keeps leaving an impact it’s the Blow Up. Their bar is the final word in industrial chic, with metal floors, exposed brickwork, and ceilings that stretch to the clouds. The artwork is mad, and deliberately messes with your head, as do the molecular cocktails, truly the work of a scientific hand. An in-house cigar lounge and extensive selection of wines complete the look; it’s not often we attach the word unmissable to a venue, so take note and visit.QG‑9, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 91, www.blowuphall5050.com. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 01:00. U­X­W BASILIUM A smart and cosy little location found just off the Rynek, and well-loved by the entire IYP team. Warm lighting and decorations ranging from old gramophones to flattened beer bottles suspended from the ceiling help create a laid-back atmosphere, but the main reason for parking yourself in one of the comfy chairs or propping yourself up an empty wooden barrel is the vast selection of beer on offer. Whilst there are a few on draught, it’s the rows and rows of bottles on the shelves that will have you gawping and unsure quite where to start. With over 150 brews, this is one of the best craft beer bars in Poz. In addition to this, there’s a nice selection of snacks.QI‑7, ul. Woźna 21, tel. (+48) 790 33 37 56. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Mon 16:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. 6­U­ G­W BROVARIA Brovaria feels an integral part of Poznań life, and it’s certainly become established as the main expat haunt since the demise of Dom Vikingów. Yet while it feels an ingrained piece of Poznań one look at the design reveals a modern, industrial space, one where steel and glass combine to create a sharp looking area that looks as edgy now as when it first opened. However, coming here to admire the interiors would be missing the point; this place is all about beer, namely the excellent house lagers that are brewed out back in the copper vats. Here’s one of the best microbreweries in Poland, quite possibly the best: enjoy it.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Open 10:00 01:00. G­W iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018

47

Nightlife WINE BARS CASA DE VINOS Thirty seconds from bustling Półwiejska Street, Casa de Vinos wine bar serves as an ideal stop-off for those who know they deserve a relaxing glass of wine (or two) after a hard day of shopping and sightseeing. The friendly and knowledgeable staff are happy enough to talk you through the 300 plus bottles on display before offering you a comfy seat in which to enjoy your final choice. It’s small, it’s intimate and it makes for a perfect little place to sample some of the finest wines from around the globe. Keep your credit card at hand - you’ll be needing it when it comes to ordering a bottle or three to take back home.QH‑8, ul. Krysiewicza 5/2, tel. (+48) 61 815 28 26, www.casadevinos.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. G­W DOBRA I WINO Wine and mozzarella di bufala are the specialties at this upscale establishment, and it’s a superb duo. Located a stone’s throw from the picturesque Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus and adjoining Jesuit complex, though unfortunately lacking an interesting view, Dobra i Wino is a nice spot to unwind and treat yourself after a long day of sightseeing. A collection of gourmet tapas is also on the menu, including delicacies like a French/Italian cheese board, sautéed chorizo, and chicken liver parfait. If you like to start wine bar hopping in the morning, surprisingly cheap breakfast is served daily until noon (13:00 on the weekends), though we’re not sure about mimosa availability - but, hey, you can probably mix your own.

QI‑7, ul. Za Bramką 1, tel. (+48) 514 51 40 09. Open 07:45 - 21:00, Mon 07:45 - 17:00, Fri 07:45 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. T­6­U­G­S­W WINO NA KIELISZKI (WINE BY THE GLASS) The city’s first self-serve wine bar, ‘Wine by the Glass’ lets you pour your own vintage from a selection of forty. Just load up a pre-paid card by the bar, order a cheese board or some nice tapas, and enjoy your Dionysiac evening. Recommended.QG‑6, ul. Młyńska 12, tel. (+48) 61 627 03 00, www.mlynska12.pl/ wino-na-kieliszki. Open 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 6­U­G­W

CHMIELNIK One of the best bars on ul. Żydowska, Chmielnik sports a smart wood and stone interior, on-site brewing tanks, and a spot-on selection of microbrews to pull in a trendy 20-something crowd. The seasonal garden out back is a summer staple, and it has recently expanded, along with the entire locale (which now has a new kitchen on the premises). Hands down, this is one of our favourite places for lazy get-togethers that go late into the night.QI‑6, ul. Żydowska 27, tel. (+48) 790 33 39 46. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Thu, Sun 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00.

6­G­W HOLA HOLA The current ‘place to be’ on ul. Wrocławska, Hola Hola is swarmed by loud revellers the minute the sun sets on a weekend night. You can’t miss it when walking along Poznań’s party street, and if you like to drink in the centre of action, this might just be for you (if not, consider checking out their less crowded basement). The hip-n-cool checklist gets all checks: trendy light fixtures, exposed brick, and drinks served in mason jars are basically obligatory these days.QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 10. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. G­W KRIEK BELGIAN PUB & CAFE If ever we were pushed to name a favourite bar in Poznań, this place would be a first impulse. Setting it apart is a collection of 170 Belgian beers, admirably promoted by Sławek, a gregarious giant whose principal aim is to spread the good gospel of lager. Even better, they now also serve food, including the only pulled pork sandwich in Poz. Permanently cast in shadow, Kriek is a sure-fire winner, and a hefty bill is as expected as the heavy head that follows.

Highly recommended.QI‑7, ul. Wodna 23, tel. (+48) 508 26 75 70. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00.

Closed Sun. U­G­W MIEJSCÓWKA Once the city’s most representative street, Św. Marcin has long been a snooze lane crammed with mediocre establishments you’d hurry past on your way to the main square. Luckily, the tide is starting to turn with the addition of increasingly recommendation-worthy restaurants and bars and here’s one. Very ‘current’ what with the neons, exposed brick, and Pinteresty glassware, Miejscówka might not be the most original, but it does earn our seal of approval, and probably Instagram’s as well. The target group here is the more hipster types, so expect lots of whimsical cocktails and colourful shots.QG‑8, ul. Święty Marcin 29. Open 16:00 02:00, Fri, Sat, 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. ­W MINISTERSTWO BROWARU One of our favourite haunts for Polish craft beers; find AleBrowar brews like Black Hope and Rowing Jack on tap alongside the establishment’s own Ministerstwo beers and top-rated European names like Delirium Tremens. If we had it our way all pubs would be run by folks as knowledgeable as these fellows, who’ve boiled it down to wood benches

48 Poznań In Your Pocket

iyp.me/poznan

Nightlife and great beer. If you’re up before it’s afternoon, you’ll find the equally awesome Minister Cafe upstairs. Second pub localization at ul. Wroniecka 16.QG‑8, ul. Ratajczaka 34, tel. (+48) 601 53 37 47. Open 16:00 - 02:00. G­W PIANO BAR RESTAURANT & CAFE The perfect spot for business meetings and dinners, with a clean cream interior punctuated by white tablecloths, a piano, and some well-chosen local art. The mobile drinks cabinet can be dispatched to your party if an emergency surfaces, such as an inability to walk. Waiters are decked out suitably and can handle any cocktail you should require. For a more laid-back experience and a nice threecourse Mediterranean lunch, head to their second room, decorated in classy but easygoing NYC style.QG‑9, ul.

Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.pianobar.poznan.pl. Open 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. U­E­G­W PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA The newspapered interior and nostalgic communistera concept here are exactly the same as their dozens of locations all over the country (including a second in Poz at ul. Wrocławska 8, C-2): dirt cheap booze and dirt cheap grub like pickled herring and cold pork in jelly to soak up the aforementioned booze. This place is packed at all hours, though it’s best sampled during the later stages of the evening when you’re guaranteed a right assortment of characters who are happy to spill out their life story for the price of a 4.50zł beer. Very ‘Polish’ and a welcome alternative to some of the Rynek’s more expensive and snobby bars.

Karaoke nights take place on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays 20:00-02:00.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 85, tel. (+48) 791 85 95 55. Open 09:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 05:00.

U­N­G­W SŁODOWNIA BROWAR PUB Set inside the old malt house (Słodownia) of the former Huggerów Brewery which has now become the vast Stary Browar mall, Browar Pub attracts a monied and grown-up crowd you’re unlikely to see filling clubs around Poznań’s main square. The arched brick ceilings add architectural interest, though all eyes are typically focused on the dance floor. Theme nights are popular here on weeknights, with weekends devoted to hits from 70s through to the present day, which might explain the classier crowd. Our only complaint is that Browar’s location deep inside the mall can make it tough to spot from outside, but follow the dolled up crowd up the outside stairs on Półwiejska as it’s worth the effort.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www. slodownia.com. Open 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Y­E­G­W

Where’s the party? facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket iyp.me/polandblog

Wino na Kieliszki is the only such concept in Poznań. Help yourself to a choice of forty especially chosen top quality wines to accompany our superb tapas selection.

Młyńska 12, Poznań | www.mlynska12.pl kontakt@mlynska12.pl | +48 61 627 03 00

November 2017 - February 2018

49

Nightlife LIVE MUSIC BLUE NOTE JAZZ CLUB A vast multi-level jazz club whose spangly interior has shades of 90s club tragedy written all over it.

Don’t let that discourage you, however; this is a legendary venue that has hosted some of the biggest names in Polish and international jazz. Do check their website for what’s cooking first - this space has been known to be rented out for teen hip-hop nights and other hooded-top twaddle, and if there’s no concert scheduled then they aren’t open.QF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 79, tel. (+48) 61 851 04 08, www. bluenote.poznan.pl. Open 1 hour before event; check website. E­G PIES ANDALUZYJSKI “Theatre / music / vodka” - this is how ‘An Andalusian Dog’ describes itself in short. Named after the 1929 surrealist short film by Luis Buñuel and Salvador Dalí, this eccentric den supplements its already alluring atmosphere with concerts, workshops, and performances.QG‑6, ul. Nowowiejskiego 17, tel. (+48) 509 68 18 71. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon. U­E­X­W SOMEPLACE ELSE SPE is a natural born winner – few places are better geared to meet foreign demands, and while the prices are undoubtedly steep (do you expect anything else from the Sheraton?), it’s a place where foreigners and locals mix with seamless ease, chatting about travels while sports beam down from their 9 TVs. American in spirit, you’ll find Route 66 extras mingled with rock pics, as well as more whimsical touches such as a car bonnet bursting from the wall. Taking centre stage is a circular bar, the perfect base to chat to staff while they fix earthquake cocktails and velvet smooth Guinness. Happy hours commence at 16:00 on weekdays and noon (!) on the weekends, going until 20:00 in both cases.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else.pl.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. Y­U­G­W UŁAN BROWAR Brewing up some decent craft beer to drink alongside regionally-inspired pub grub, Ułan is a new addition to the Poz’s City Park complex located in lovingly refurbished Ułan/Uhlan (Polish light cavalry) barracks. The military links might end at the name, but that makes no difference to those who come here to watch the big game with their mates, play some snooker, or listen to the occasional stand-up. If that doesn’t sound so kid-friendly, you’re in for a surprise - the little ones get a play corner of their own, so take them along as you sample some local brews.

QA‑10, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26, tel. (+48) 888 08 52 22, www.ulanbrowar.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. T­6­U­E­ S­W 50 Poznań In Your Pocket

WHISKEY IN THE JAR What with Stary Rynek being most people’s first port of call, it’s always good to have a bit of variety. Whiskey in the Jar ticks the box for ‘good-old-fashioned rock ‘n’ roll bar,’ but this isn’t your typical grubby rock pub - rather a classy joint serving steaks and burgers and killer cocktails guaranteed to leave your head spinning (Don’t believe us? See how many of their Jack Daniel’s Whisky Jars you can work your way through in one sitting).QI‑7, Stary Rynek 100, tel. (+48) 690 28 88 98, www.whiskeyinthejar.pl. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. Y­6­E­G­o­W WHISKY BAR 88 Steal yourself away to the darkened surroundings of Whisky Bar in City Park where you will find the ideal conditions to sit back and enjoy one of well over 500 different types of the sainted liquid. Whether you’re looking for whiskey, whisky, or whatever it is in Japanese, you will not be disappointed with the elegantly backlit display cases holding some wonderful choices including some 25-year old single malts.

Comfortable chairs and a modern take on an ‘open-fire’ complete the picture.QA‑9, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26A (City Park Hotel & Residence), tel. (+48) 888 32 18 88, www. whiskybar88.pl. Open 16:00 - 01:00. U­I­E­X­W NEW ŹRÓDŁO.BAR The focus at “the Spring” - or “the Source”, depending on the translation - is on a wide selection of whiskey and seasonal cocktails (it was fruit cobbler, Cynar spritz, and Moscow mule the past summer, among other creations). The interior decor is spot-on, veering away from tired hipster cliches towards geometric furniture and a Mondrianesque mirror, though the obligatory exposed brick still takes the spotlight. If whisky and cocktails don’t float your boat, there’s also plenty of craft beer, cider, sangria, rum, and shots on the menu.QF-8, ul. Taczaka 15, tel. (+48) 792 75 21 32, www.zrodlobar.pl. Open 18:00 - 23:45, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. G­W

CLUBS CORNER PUB / COLLOQUIUM CLUB Two for the price of one here, but choose carefully. While there’s little differentiating these sister venues (both are stupidly popular brick cellar bars with dance floors at the end of them), Colloquium Club attracts the teeny-boppers and features a less-than-friendly bouncer, making Corner Pub the better choice. Though local opinion is divided, if you check your self-awareness at the door and are happy to sacrifice design extras for near giveaway beer, a good time is almost guaranteed. Flashing lights, cheesy chart-disco and giggling coeds make this a must for any local pub crawl we just suggest you’ve already emptied a few glasses before entering.QF‑8, ul. Taczaka 10, tel. (+48) 510 10 53 95, www.imprezadorana.pl. Open 09:00 - 05:00. X­W CZEKOLADA Credit crunch you say? Not in Poznań, people. While the rest of the world staggers around like a shot pig the iyp.me/poznan

Nightlife

iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018

51

Nightlife Fittingly located in a former distillery, HAH has three rooms to choose from: heaven, which focuses on the newest pop hits; purgatory, a quieter chill-out zone; and hell, a loud techno and deep house area with a passageway to a menonly cruising bar.QI‑6, ul. Małe Garbary 6, tel. (+48) 786 17 58 08, www.hah.com.pl. Open 22:00 - 06:00 Tue, Thu, Fri and Sat. P­E­X NEW HAVANA CLUB POZNAŃ This Cuban bonanza is right on the Old Market Square, putting you in the centre of nighttime revelry. The music of choice is salsa, samba, and merengue, the bar is stocked with all the necessary ingrediends for endless mojitos and Cuba libres, and tapas are available for a quick mid-dance refuel. Latino parties take place on Fridays and Saturdays, starting at 20:00; Wednesdays and Thursdays are for college students, and free Latino dance workshops are on daily.QI‑6, Stary Rynek 62, tel. (+48) 690 00 99 80, www.havanapoznan.pl. Open 12:00 - 05:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. P­E­X­W

denizens of Poznań are living the high life in places like Czekolada. To call this place sexy would be a disservice; this is the final word in design drinking and the sort of cocktail spot/lounge club the city deserves. Huge chandeliers, shiny surfaces and black finishes lend a real svelte look to this spot, and you’d be a fool to turn up looking like anything less than a celebrity. To make a reservation, head to their website of facebook.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 18, tel. (+48) 665 55 08 91, www.klubczekolada.pl. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 05:00. X­W CUBA LIBRE Set down a shadowy courtyard basement, Cuba Libre is a bouncy Latin venue replete with whitewashed walls, pics of Che, and wall space dedicated to an assortment of Cuban goodies. This place goes for detail, so much so that drinkers can even take a seat in one of those clapped-out vintage bangers you see pootling round the streets of Havana. The Mondaynight dance challenges, Fiesta Latino Fridays, and Disco Latino Saturdays all prove seriously popular.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. (+48) 61 855 23 44, www.cuba-libre.pl. Open 21:00 05:00, Mon, Tue 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. E­X­W NEW HAH POZNAŃ Short for Heaven and Hell, the HAH clubbing chain is big on inclusivity; their clubs are gay-friendly and host occasional drag shows and pride parade after-parties. There’s plenty of room for hetero revellers as well, and their karaoke nights and hot latino music parties have a universal appeal.

52 Poznań In Your Pocket

PACHA Pacha? As in, the world’s most famous clubbing franchise Pacha? In Poznań? We’re as shocked as you, but yep, those cherries are real, and this is the only Pacha in Central Europe - validating Poznań’s growing international rep as a prime party city. Decked out in plush design and pumping out house music for the masses, Pacha is a divorcee’s paradise and one which is attracting big crowds looking to dance away those working-week blues. Will its reputation be enough to pull in the punters from Warsaw, Wrocław, and Berlin? Time will tell...

QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. (+48) 519 30 02 60, www. pachapoznan.com. Open Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 05:00. X­W PROJEKT LAB Inspired by the Berlin party scene - in fact, conceived as a direct result of the to-be owners’ wild night at techno club Berghain - Projekt LAB is an experimental space and underground music venue that proved an immense hit as soon as it opened doors in 2013. The music of choice here is dubstep, trap, drum’n’bass, and - naturally - 50 shades of techno, often supplied by international DJs and bands.

Brave the long entry lines and you’ll be rewarded with a true multimedia experience.QI‑6, ul. Grochowe Łąki 5, tel. (+48) 732 54 45 22, www.projektlab.pl. Open Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 07:00 only. X­W SQ Dance with the fittest and the hippest in SQ, by far the most envied dance space in town. Silly haircuts and expensive wardrobes abound here, and they’re here for the music not the design – DJs arrive from all across Poland to play here, sometimes even further. The interior isn’t all that, but the nights are legend, and you’ll find no better place to puff the chest out and behave like a big time Bertie.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 663 78 65 47, www.sqklub. pl. Open Wed 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00 only.

E­X iyp.me/poznan

Nightlife

iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018

53

Vivid colours at the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus (p.60). | © Photocreo Bednarek, AdobeStock

Poznań Sightseeing Crowded with cobbled streets, soaring steeples and historical monuments, Poznań’s Old Town is a collage of architectural styles and historical monuments, waiting to be explored…

Essential Poznań With a deep and typically complex history, Poznań is rife with historical monuments and has much to offer those who enjoy outstanding architecture and diverse cultural attractions. While part of the beauty of Poznań lies in aimlessly roaming the streets and alleys, making chance findings from one turn to the next, there are a number of must-see sights whose discovery should not be left to chance.

Your natural start point should be the Old Town, and its main square, the glorious Old Town Square (p.56). Taking centre stage is the Old Town Hall (p.56), once renowned as the most beautiful building north of the Alps. Today it is home to the Historical Museum of Poznań (p.57) as well as a pair of mechanical goats who emerge at noon to the delight of the sightseers gathered below. Of course there’s more to the Rynek than just the Town Hall, and visitors with plenty of time will enjoy investigating the other museums that line the perimeter of the square, including the impressive Archeological Museum (p.61) and the brutal Wielkopolska Military Museum (p.58).

Poznań also boasts two castles. First up is the Royal Castle (p.60), located just west of the Rynek, which was the seat of the first Polish kings; neglected for decades, the castle has recently been returned to its pride of place with thorough renovation works. Further west is the Imperial Castle (p.61), built as the residence of Prussian ruler Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1910. Today the chambers and cellars of this fearsome complex house numerous restaurants and bars, as well as the 1956 Uprising Museum (p.61).

To avoid churches in Poznań would take a serious case of river blindness. The gem of the Old Town is the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus (p.60), which boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists, as well as a flamboyant pink facade. The most important place of worship in Poznań, however, is the Poznań Cathedral on Ostrów Tumski (p.67) with its twin towers and surrounding chapels. This site is connected not only with the founding of the city of Poznań, but with the very birth of the Polish nation - a story which is now told in all its glory at the outstanding Porta Posnania (p.66).

Fireworks over the Imperial Castle (p.55) on St. Martin’s Day (p.6).

Photo by Adam Borusiak. Courtesy of City of Poznań

This modern complex is now the mandatory starting point for exploring Ostrów Tumski - Poznań’s glorious ‘Cathedral Island.’ Once you’ve finished strolling the Old Town, make sure you have the better part of a day to enjoy the medieval ambience and relative tranquillity of Ostrów Tumski.

Poznań also boasts some glorious parks and green spaces.

Lake Malta (p.76), just east of the centre is one of the most unique urban leisure areas in the country, and offers loads of family activities for all seasons, including skiing, roller-coasters, and the New Zoo (p.77). Meanwhile, just north of the Old Town, Citadel Park’s 89 hectares of public greenery are stuffed with interesting monuments, and even two museums focussed on the city’s military history (p.69).

No matter how long your stay, you’ll find plenty in Poznań to keep your interest. Use our Sightseeing section to explore it all and enjoy one of Poland’s most ancient and exciting cities.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App Photo by Radosław Maciejewski. Courtesy of City of Poznań

iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018

55

Stary Rynek Walking Tour Packed with monuments, landmarks, museums, and mementos from the city’s rich history, Poznańs marvellous Old Town Square warrants more than a passing glance and smartphone pic. Faithfully reconstructed after the immense damage of WWII, the Square can easily take a few hours to properly explore and enjoy.

1 OLD TOWN HALL First erected in the early 14th century, Poznań’s glorious Town Hall (Ratusz) really flowered in mid-1500s when Italian architect Giovanni Quadro of Lugano added the Renaissance loggia, attic, and classical tower, earning the structure acclaim as ‘the most beautiful building north of the Alps.’ Unfortunately a catalogue of historic disasters - including a 1675 fire, 1725 hurricane and WWII bomb damage - have resulted in the sad reality that today little of the original structure actually remains, though it has been faithfully rebuilt to retain its status as the city’s showpiece.

Today the Old Town Hall houses the Historical Museum of Poznań, whose collection encompasses exhibits from the 10th century till the present day. The biggest draw is the Great Entrance Hall with its elaborately decorated vault, supported by two huge pillars. The tableaux are inspired by the bible, astrology and figures from mythology. Directly outside the Town Hall is the original whipping post, dating from 1535, with a recently repaired figure of Poz’s executioner standing on top.

Crowds gather outside the Town Hall each day to witness two mechanical billy goats emerge from a door above

a Żydow sk

Zamk owa

STARY RYNEK

Monument of the 15th Poznań Lancers Regiment

rna

4

7

rna

Apollo Fountain

© OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.

Kozia

Święto sławsk a

Szkoln a

a

8

Kozia

Woźna

Musical Instruments Museum

6

Neptune Fountain

Artistic Ceramics

Klaszto

Sieroca

Murna 056 Poznań 20 40 In Your 60 m Pocket

Poznań Croissant Museum

5

9

Wrocław sk

Ludgardy

3

Models of Poznań

Scale 1:3 000 1 cm = 30 m

Dalineum

2

Franciscan Church

Ślusarska

1

11

Wielka

Proserpina Fountain

Klaszto

10

ńska

STARY RYNEK

The Holy Blood of Lord Jesus Church

Archaeological Museum

Kozia

Wodna

Ślusars ka

Mars Fountain

Francisz ka

Paderewskiego

Kramarska

Literary Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz

Gór

a

ła ys m ze Pr

a

ska

ańska

Szewsk

Kramar

Wronie ck

a

Dominik

Rynkowa

Applied Arts Museum

the clock at precisely 12:00 and proceed to butt heads twelve times. Simultaneously, a trumpeter plays the town’s traditional bugle call from a balcony. The bugle call (hejnał) dates back at least to the 15th century, and the goats have been ramming heads 1551. Replaced and restored over the years, the present pair have been bludgeoning each other since 1954. Of course there’s a half-baked legend to go along with them: When the clock was completed in 1511, the governor of the Poznań province was invited for the unveiling. The hapless cook preparing the celebratory feast burnt the venison, so he went out and managed to steal a pair of goats to serve instead. Alas, the goats escaped and traipsed up to the top of City Hall, where the governor saw them butting heads and decreed they be added to

go

Z am kowa

23 L ute

Historical Museum of Poznań

iyp.me/poznan

Stary Rynek Walking Tour 3 PRANGER Just outside the Town Hall, near its southeast corner, you’ll find the proudly protruding Pranger, a 16th-century punishment device funded by fines placed on servant women, wet-nurses, and barmaids who dressed up too frilly or wore jewellery deemed inappropriate for their social standing (the outrage!). Topped with a severe statue of a sword-wielding executioner in a Crusader’s outfit, unlucky criminals would be chained to this octagonal column and whipped, or - if the executioner was feeling fancy or the crime warranted it - have his ears or fingers chopped off.

Sadly, the contraption no longer elicits deserved fear, as evidenced by repeated vandalism by drunken students and football hooligans - an offence which would surely be more creatively punished in the Pranger’s heyday than in our current times. Luckily, the original isn’t actually in any danger, as it has long been moved to the Historical Museum and replaced with a copy.QI‑7, Stary Rynek.

Old Town Hall

© whitelook Adobe Stock

the clock. The rest, as they say, is history - much like the cook, who was likely tied to the whipping post and given a bloody good thrashing.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 61 856 81 93, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/1-5zł, Sat free.

2 HISTORICAL MUSEUM OF POZNAŃ The show-stealing Town Hall proves a fitting venue for a museum of this stature. The gothic cellars – originally the municipal prison - hold exhibits dating back to the earliest times of settlement in the 10th century. On the ground floor, rooms built in the 16th century hold exhibits covering the city’s urban and economic development during that time. The Renaissance Hall, Royal Hall and Court Hall on the first floor hold the most valuable documents and artefacts, and the opulent vaulted ceilings – depicting griffins, lions and eagles - are worth the photography surcharge alone.

Exhibits include a 13th century crosier from Limoges, a table clock with the Poznań coat of arms from 1575 and a globe from 1688 – resist the temptation to give it a spin lest you wish to incur the wrath of hawkish curators. Much of the second floor is dedicated to the 19th century when the city was under Prussian rule, and features everyday objects and portraits of prominent citizens. The final part of the museum depicts the history of 20th century Poznań, and exhibits include the disturbing photograph of a swastika fluttering from the Town Hall.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 61 856 81 93, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/1-5zł, Sat free. Y­N

iyp.me/polandblog

4 BUDNICY HOUSES To the left of the Town Hall is perhaps the most recognisable Poznań sight: the picture-book-worthy, technicolor row of townhouses planted right in the middle of the Main Square. Originally called “herring shops” (budy śledziowe), they were home to merchants, and their arcades held fish, candle, torch, and salt stands. They were later renamed to Budnicy Houses (domki budnicze) in honour of a class of merchants known as Budnicy, whose headquarters used to operate at no. 117. Look closely and you’ll see their coat of arms on the facade: three palm trees and a herring.QI-7, Stary Rynek.

Budnicy Houses

© lukaszimilena, AdobeStock

November 2017 - February 2018

57

Stary Rynek Walking Tour

Arsenał and the Wielkopolska Military Museum 5 WIELKOPOLSKA MILITARY MUSEUM Situated inside a brutal communist-era pavilion, the Military Museum documents the history of the Polish military from the 11th century onwards. Starting with scythes and halberds the collection includes the armour of winged hussars, sabres, muskets and cannons, as well as portraits of Polish military commanders and famous moments in their history. The unwieldy musket ‘kolowy’ is a particularly impressive effort, and surely completely useless in combat. The 20th century section features grenades, compasses and medical kits, and the upstairs is devoted to the Wielkopolska Uprising, with medals, uniforms and postcards from the era. The collection was decimated during WWII, with the only surviving item being a fragment of Wojciech Kossak’s 1901 painting, The Battle of the Pyramids.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 9, tel. (+48) 61 852 67 39, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/1-5zł. Sat free.

Y­N 6 JOHN OF NEPOMUK MONUMENT As you stroll Stary Rynek, you’ll see numerous monuments, including this noteworthy 1724 figure of John of Nepomuk (Jan Nepomucen), a Bohemian martyr saint who was tortured and drowned in the Vltava River after refusing to divulge the secrets of the Queen of Bohemia’s confessional to her jealous husband Wenceslaus. It was hoped that the saint would be able to protect the city from repeated, disastrous floods, but ultimately the 1960’s re-routing of the Warta River did a far better job of that.QStary Rynek.

7 ARSENAŁ CITY GALLERY Founded in the late 1940s under the somewhat commiesounding name Central Exhibition Bureau, Arsenał is one of the oldest players on Poznań’s art gallery scene - and probably the most important, especially given its very central location. Currently organised by the Poznań City Council, the institution hosts exhibitions by Polish and foreign artists and organises educational meetings.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 61 852 95 02, www.arsenal.art. pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

58 Poznań In Your Pocket

8 OD:ZYSK The weirdest spot on the Old Market Square, this former squat is a testament to the city’s large anarchist presence.

The late 19th century building on the square’s corner housed a succession of fashion stores, before it was abandoned by its owners sometime in the early 21st century, a signal for the local anarchists to take over. The move took place in late 2012, sparking conflict with city authorities; the squatters used the space to host parties, concerts, and various anarchist events while simultaneously housing some fifty people in shabby conditions, which put the Old Square’s peaceful touristy appeal in some jeopardy. It took until 2015 for the two sides to come to an agreement: the anarchists would move out in exchange for 125 thousand zł (some 35 thousand USD), which would go towards helping the city’s evictees and debtors. Since then, the graffitied and postered building has stood empty, though there are plans to eventually turn it into a posh hotel and restaurant.

This doesn’t mean that the anarchists have left the centre completely; you’ll still find them running the Zemsta cafe and bookstore (p.27) and tagging city walls with leftist messages, while their headquarters remain at ul. Rozbrat, just off Pułaskiego.QH-7, ul. Paderewskiego 2.

9 WIELKOPOLSKA UPRISING MUSEUM This 18th-century police guardhouse was originally haphazardly constructed using wood, and later redone in classicist style by Jan Chrystian Kamsetzer in 1783-1787. In the inter-war period, it served as a garrison jailhouse. Like much of the Old Town, this structure was all but levelled in the Battle of Poznań in 1945, and the building had to be reconstructed in later years, serving as the Workers’ Movement Museum during communism. It currently houses the 1818-1819 Wielkopolska Uprising Museum, closed for renovations until December 2017, when it should reopen with a brand-new exhibition. What that will include is anyone’s guess, though the previous incarnation included items like a 1908 Maxim heavy machine gun and a replica banner flown on the night of the Uprising’s outbreak.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 61 853 19 93, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Admission 8/4zł. Tue free. Y­N

Od:zysk

iyp.me/poznan

Stary Rynek Walking Tour GUIDED TOURS CITY EVENT POZNAŃ More from City Guide Poznań - going beyond walking tours and standard tourist itineraries, City Event Poznań organises multimedia city games, feast tours, beer excursions, costumed performers, historical reenactments, traditional music concerts, and more. Perfect for groups, school field trips, and team building.Qtel. (+48) 608 28 42 08, www.cityevent-poznan.pl/en.

Wielkopolska Uprising Museum

Radomil CC BY-SA 3.0

10 MUNICIPAL SCALES BUILDING This cute, freestanding building on the Main Square almost looks like something out of Hansel and Gretel. Originally constructed in 1534, it once housed hardware for weighing merchandise on its way to the market. The little that remains of the original furnishings is now located in the Historical Museum, and the building itself is used by the city’s civil registry to issue marriage certificates.QH/I-7, Stary Rynek.

11 BAMBER MONUMENT

CITY GUIDE POZNAŃ Excellent local guides offering tours in English, German, Polish, Italian, Russian, French and Spanish to attractions throughout Poznań and beyond (the Piast Route). During Poland’s EU presidency, City Guides was chosen to show delegates of the European Commission around the city - solid credentials indeed. Their sister company, City Event Poznań, organises segway and beer tours as well.Qtel. (+48) 608 28 42 08, www. cityguide-poznan.com.pl.

VISITPOZNAŃ VisitPoznan offers a wide variety of traditional and alternative-themed walking tours for groups and individuals. Regular Old Town tours (20zł) in English leave from the main square Tourist Information Centre Thu and Sat at 17:00; other languages and tours by prior arrangement, with prices below.Qtel. (+48) 663 03 62 95, www.visitpoznan.info. For groups 1-6 people 190zł/2hrs, 250zł/3hrs, 340zł/5hrs; prices negotiable for larger groups.

TOURIST INFORMATION CITY INFORMATION CENTRE QD‑9, ul. Dworcowa 2 (Main Train Station), tel. (+48) 61 633 10 16, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 08:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

This small statue of a traditionally-dressed Bamber peasant girl carrying jugs used in wine-making stands beside the historical Municipal Scales building. Created by sculptor Joseph Wackerle, who would later become Reich Culture Senator and Hitler’s favourite artist, Bamberka was unveiled in 1915 and originally stood over a well providing drinking water for horses. The subject matter commemorated the Bambers, poor Catholic farmers from Bavaria (today southeast Germany), who came to Poznań around 300 years ago at the invitation of the city authorities to help rebuild villages devastated by war and plague. To find out more about this unique group, you can visit the Poznań Bamber Museum (p.64).QI‑7, Stary Rynek. iyp.me/polandblog

CITY INFORMATION CENTRE QG‑7, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. (+48) 61 851 96 45, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Maps and guides in Polish, English, and German.

Assistance in those languages plus French, Spanish, Italian, and Portuguese.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 59/60, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 56, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Qul. Bukowska 285 (Poznań Ławica Airport, Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 849 21 40, www.cim. poznan.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

November 2017 - February 2018

59

Sightseeing THE ROYAL CASTLE

CHURCHES Poland’s first bishopric was established in Poznań way back in 968AD, meaning the city is home to the oldest Christian places of worship in this extremely devout country. Poznań Cathedral was Poland’s first, and you can read more about it and other churches in that district in our Ostrów Tumski section on page 66; here we list churches in the city centre only - all of which are still active to varying degrees, so please be respectful and try not to visit during services.

Every European city worth its salt has a castle, and Poznań actually has two. Indeed, the 20th century ‘Zamek’ west of the Old Town is neither Poznań’s oldest, nor most important castle. Wander just one block west of the market square and you’ll find yourself at the foot of Góra Przemysła, crowned by Poznań’s former Royal Castle.

Once the pride of Poznań, the original construction was begun approximately 1249 by Przemysł I - Duke of the Piast dynasty who had chosen Poz as his capital.

Work on the royal residence was continued by his son, and by the time Kazimierz the Great (a prince at the time) moved in in the early 14th century, Poznań’s Royal Castle was the largest non-ecclesiastical building in Poland. Its fortunes took a serious turn for the worse in early 18th century when it was sacked several times in quick succession by the Swedes, the Russians, and then disgruntled nobles. Governor General Kazimierz Raczyński restored the medieval buildings and created a state archive here in 1783 - a function it would serve until WWII. During the Siege of 1945, the castle had the misfortune of being in the line of fire with the Nazi stronghold on Citadel Hill and that was that.

In 1959 the decision was taken to rebuild Raczyński’s contribution to the hill, which today houses the Applied Arts Museum. Until recently, the Castle’s rich historical value as the seat of early Polish royalty, numerous royal births, weddings, and treaty signings seems to have been undervalued, but that’s in the past now. Between 2010 and 2016 the castle underwent a total restoration, and is now fully open, including the castle tower, observation decks, and Prince Przemysł I Hall.QH‑7, Góra Przemysła. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł. Tue free.

60 Poznań In Your Pocket

FRANCISCAN CHURCH Built in the years 1674-1728, there’s seemingly not much to this church just off the market square. Hidden behind the bland exterior, however, is an absolute explosion of baroque over-indulgence, with colourful carved wood, stucco, and paintings by local monk Adam Swach. His brother, Antoni, designed the high altar and ornamented stalls, which literally jump out at you in their bright flamboyance. It’s a spectacle worth seeing, but visitors also flock to this church to see the Marian shrine, which has housed a famous picture of the Miracle-Working Virgin Mary, also known as the Lady of Poznań, for 300 years.

QH‑7, ul. Franciszkańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 852 36 37, www.poznan.franciszkanie.pl. Open 06:30 - 18:30, No visiting during mass please.

LESSER BASILICA OF ST. STANISLAUS One of Poznań’s most impressive historic monuments, the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus, which it became in October 2010, was created as a Jesuit temple in the 17th century. It boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists, with some fine period ornamentation found in the chapels of the Holy Cross (which features a 16th-century crucifix), and the Virgin Mary (which has a precious copy of the painting of The Mother of God of Incessant Help). The Basilica hosts organ concerts played on an instrument dating from 1876 on Saturdays at 12:15.QI‑7, ul. Gołębia 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 69 50, www.fara.archpoznan.pl. Open 06:00 - 19:30, No visiting during mass please.

ST. ADALBERT’S CHURCH This small, uniquely-shaped Gothic building was constructed in the early 15th century and is notable for its adjacent wooden belfry and Art Nouveau murals. The high altar features a Late Gothic relief of the assumption of the Holy Virgin Mary and the other altars are manneristic, dating from around 1630. Since 1923 it has held the Crypt of Eminent Citizens of Wielkopolska, the resting place of Jozef Wybicki, who wrote the words of the Polish national anthem, and the urn containing General Jan Henryk Dąbrowski’s heart. The church also contains the sarcophagus of Karol Marcinkowski, the famous doctor and social activist. Every Christmas, visitors come to see the nativity scene with its mechanical figures of Polish kings, scholars, artists, and other national heroes.QH‑5, ul.

Wzgórze Św. Wojciecha 1, tel. (+48) 793 84 28 60, www. swietywojciech.archpoznan.pl. Open before mass and by prior arrangement. iyp.me/poznan

Sightseeing MUSEUMS 1956 UPRISING MUSEUM The Zamek is an impressive building alright, but pride of place goes to the 1956 Uprising exhibition, honouring the first armed resistance the communist regime faced. Hidden down a side entrance, this basement masterpiece features stretchers used to carry the wounded, a tank, a display of arms and rifles, a room of Socialist propaganda posters, a typical Poznań family’s flat from the 1950s and a direct copy of a detention cell. Most poignant of all, though, is the space set aside for 13 year old Roman Strzałkowski, the youngest to die in the troubles. Exhibits include his harmonica and domino set, and newspaper clippings showing Strzałkowski picking up prizes for his piano skills.

QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 852 94 64, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/4zł, Tue free. Y­U­N APPLIED ARTS MUSEUM Housed in the Royal Castle of Poznań, this museum has recently undergone huge changes which shifted the focus from medieval craftwork and princely decorations exclusively to applied arts, rolling out a 2000-piece exhibition of furniture, fabrics, ceramics, glassware, weaponry, and clothing from around the world. For those more interested in the actual history of the place, we recommend skipping the arts and checking out the (sparse) ground-floor exhibition dedicated to the castle and its founder, Duke Przemysł II, as well as climbing the seasonally-open tower.QH‑7, Góra Przemysła 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 35, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00; Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/1-8zł. Tue free. Y­N ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Housed in the beautiful 16th-century Górka Palace, Poznań’s Archaeology Museum contains a collection of 42,000 rare and mystifying objects that chart life in Ancient Egypt and prehistoric Poland. The first part of the museum takes you through the earliest settlements in the region, with life-sized figures as well as miniature dioramas depicting life from the Stone Age to the Iron Age. The other permanent exhibit, ‘Death and Life in Ancient Egypt,’ features 120 rare pieces, from a granite obelisk of Rameses II to the mummified remains of a woman named ‘Hat.’QI‑7, ul. Wodna 27 (Pałac Górków), tel. (+48) 61 852 82 51, www.muzarp.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł, family ticket 20zł. Sat free. Guided tours by prior arrangement 70zł. Free audio guides avaliable in English. Y­U ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM See Ostrów Tumski, p.68.QK‑6, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 8/5zł, family ticket 12zł. Y­N iyp.me/polandblog

THE IMPERIAL CASTLE More a palace than a ‘castle,’ work began on Poznań’s fearsome ‘Zamek’ in 1905 to serve as the provincial residence of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Designed in the neoRomanesque style by Franz Schwechten, the west wing held Wilhelm’s living quarters, the east wing his immaculate throne room, with the northern part of the complex consisting of service rooms and beautiful gardens based on the Alhambra’s Courtyard of the Lions. The Kaiser got the keys in 1910 but didn’t stay long before WWI and the following Wielkopolska Uprising resulted in a Polish Poznań once again.

Between the wars the Zamek became the seat of Poznań University, before the Third Reich swooped in and Albert Speer, Hitler’s pet architect, transformed the tower chapel into the Fuehrer’s office, and the second floor into the residence of Arthur Greiser (Nazi governor of the district). The castle was badly damaged during the Soviet liberation and there was even a post-war campaign to have the structure bulldozed. In the end the drastic measures stopped with reducing the principal tower to a third of its original height.

Used by the University in the two years following the war, and then as the seat of local government, the Zamek has operated as a cultural centre since 1962, hosting hundreds of theatre performances, concerts, film screenings and other events in its palatial halls each year. The basement houses the 1956 Uprising Museum, and throughout the large complex visitors will find several restaurants, cafes and bars, including the popular Dubliner Irish Pub. Guided tours of the castle in English are available for 150zł but must be booked in advance by calling +48 61 646 52 88.QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www. ckzamek.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Free admission without tour.

© GKor / Dollar Photo Club

November 2017 - February 2018

61

Sightseeing POZNAŃ STREET ART

The Watcher, dog edition.

For a long time, the height of Polish street art amounted to scrawling less-print-friendly versions of “All Cops Are Bastards” and “Lech Poznań 4ever” on residential buildings and/or historical monuments in the dead of night, while the ‘artist’s’ accomplices kept watch on the street corner. Older Poles will also remember the occasional party-sanctioned propaganda murals - not the best connotation either.

It was only around 2009-2010 that quality outdoor art started rapidly gaining ground in PL, spawning mural artists and street art festivals throughout the country.

The local scene took off in 2011 with the first edition of the Outer Spaces Festival, which saw renowned muralists from Italy, The Netherlands, Spain, and France invited to spice up the drab exteriors of five carefullychosen buildings. The project was a hit, and two more editions were organised, adding a pop of optimism to Wilda and Jeżyce.

Not everyone has opted for the legal route, however: a certain Banksy-esque character operating under the pseudonym ‘Noriaki Kasai’ (not the actual ski jumper, as far as we know - that’d be weird) is responsible for an infestation reminiscent of Wrocław’s ‘gnome problem,’ tagging the city walls with variations of Pan Peryskop (Mr. Periscope) AKA The Watcher - a loveable maverick who has integrated himself into the fabric of the city. Keep an eye out, and you’ll realise this watchful rascal is ubiquitous, peering from walls, walking his dog, playing b-ball, and getting passed-out drunk depending on the circumstances.

Fancy a walking tour of Poznań’s best street art? Head to iyp.me/pozstreetart for a rundown of not-to-bemissed specimens, all of which we’ve pinned with GPS coordinates so that your smartphone can do the work for you. We encourage you to do just that, and check out some of Poz’s alternative artistic visions.

62 Poznań In Your Pocket

CHOCOLATE MUSEUM Joining the Croissant Museum is another sweet temptation under an educational guise: the Chocolate Museum where kids of all ages (including those quite grown and greying) can learn about cacao tree plantations, the history of chocolate, and chocolate-making techniques while sampling decadent creations. The guided tours last an estimated 40 minutes and can be followed with a 30-minute workshop during which participants create their own chocolate bar - to take home, of course (if you can refrain from wolfing it down on the spot).QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 12, tel. (+48) 502 45 41 77, www.muzeumczekolady. edu.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 18/15zł, plus 20zł for the optional workshop. U DALINEUM A quite random but endearing addition to Poz’s museum scene, Dalineum is a homage to the master of ‘paranoidcritical’ surrealism, Spanish painter Salvador Dalí. Housed in a black-tapestried and windowless locale just off the main square, the private collection comprises numerous prints, ceramics, works in metal, and items produced commercially by the enterprising artist, such as perfume bottles, ties, and playing cards. Adding to the surrealist factor is music croaking out from fatigued speakers, variable-quality English descriptions, and an unintentional funhouse mirror effect on some of the protective plastic screens. An adventure to be sure.QI‑7, ul. Wielka 24, tel. (+48) 570 62 58 25, www.artexpo-international.com.

Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 20/15zł. N LITERARY MUSEUM OF HENRYK SIENKIEWICZ Winner of the 1905 Nobel Prize in Literature, Sienkiewicz is best known internationally as the author of Quo Vadis, a birth-of-Christianity epic that has been translated into 50 languages. This museum dedicated to his legacy is located in a house that once belonged the Italian architect Jean Baptiste Quadro (that’s his bust you can see outside), and the collection is the life work of Ignacy Moś, who started collecting Sienkiewicz memorabilia after helping to free Sienkiewicz’s only son from the Gestapo. The exhibition includes the author’s Lennon-style specs, post-mortem facial and hand casts, correspondences, and a collection of his novels including an English version of Quo Vadis dating from 1899.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 84, tel. (+48) 61 852 89 71, www.bracz.edu.pl/MHS. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 4/2zł, Sat free. N MODELS OF POZNAŃ A huge model that shows Poznań in its form as presented in Brau-Hogenburg’s illustration sketched in 1618.

Constructed over a period of six years the model takes up a space of 50m2 and is built on a scale of 1:150. The decorative details are impressive, and you can expect lots of kids as well as anoraked model enthusiasts pulling up the school seats around it as they wait for the show to begin.

As the lights dim a recorded commentary begins and visitors are taken through the area-by-area story of Poznań’s development. Foreigners are given headsets broadcasting iyp.me/poznan

Sightseeing

heavily accented commentary in the language of their choice, though this is at times drowned out by hilarious background noise that includes medieval soldiers screaming in agony. The museum’s other models include Poznań in the 10th century and a touchable model of the main square aimed at blind visitors.QH‑7, ul. Ludgardy 1, tel. (+48) 61 855 14 35, www.makieta.poznan.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 16zł. Y­N MUSEUM OF ARMAMENTS See Citadel Park, p.70.QH‑3, Park Cytadela, tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł, Tue free; ticket also valid for the nearby Poznań Army Museum. Y­N NATIONAL MUSEUM A large and excellent museum with a rich collection of modern Polish art (including interesting Impressionist works) in the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian, Dutch, and Flemish paintings in the connected old building.

The museum also holds the largest collection of Spanish art (including Zurbaran and Ribera) in Poland and plenty of Polish art from the 16th century onwards. In addition, a Monet painting stolen in 2000 was recently recovered and is back on display. Selected paintings have extensive English explanations about the artist and topic.QH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. (+48) 61 856 80 00, www.mnp. art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/1-8zł, Sat free. Y­N PHARMACY MUSEUM One of the smallest museums in Poznań, and certainly the trickiest to find – go through the courtyard, ring the doorbell then climb to the second floor. The series of rooms here are filled with rusty pots, scales, vials and cast iron mortars from the 17-19th centuries. While once you’d find yourself wandering around in ignorance, the museum now offers small guides in English, German, and French. One room has been designed to mimic a 19th century pharmacy - complete with a box for morphine while another includes over 1,200 rare medical books, a stuffed alligator and an inmate’s uniform recovered from Mathausen.QH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 11, tel. (+48) 61 851 66 15. Open Mon, Wed, Fri only 09:00 - 15:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission free. iyp.me/polandblog

INEA STADIUM Originally built in 1980, when Poznań was chosen to host the EURO2012 football championship, the city’s stadium was redeveloped rather than completely reconstructed, and capacity raised from 27,000 to 43,090, at an investment of €160 million.

Today the home of popular local side Lech Poznań, INEA Stadium is one of the top stadiums in Europe, featuring covered seating throughout, plus all the service points you would expect at a modern sports complex, including the rather splendid ‘12 Sports Bar & Restaurant.’ Host to large-scale events throughout the year, the stadium has also become a bit of a tourist attraction with 45min-1hr guided tours available in Polish, English, German and French, during which you’ll get a chance to experience the changing rooms that Lech Poznań call home, the Presidential boxes, press room, conference room, the Hall of Fame, and, of course, the pitch itself; check their website for exact tour times and prices.

Getting there is easy - just catch tram no. 13 from ‘Pl. Wielkopolski’, getting off at ‘INEA Stadion’.Qul. Bułgarska 17 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 886 30 31, www.ineastadion.pl. Tours start at 10:30, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00 Mon-Fri, and 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 15:00 on the weekends. Admission 17/10zł. Kids under 5 free. Y November 2017 - February 2018

63

Sightseeing BREWERY TOURS & PUB

BREWERY TOURS & PUB LECH BROWARY WIELKOPOLSKI The Poznań Brewery - one of the largest in PL, and producers of Lech, Tyskie, Żubr, and Redds - lies on the outskirts of the city and is a must for beer aficionados.

There is no minimum number of people required for a tour, so you can happily book by yourself, but they do ask that you make an appointment the day before, or at very least on the morning of your planned visit. Despite this, our unannounced arrival presented no significant problems, other than having to wait half an hour in the bar (our preferred habitat) while a guide was rustled up.

The two-hour tour, available in English and German, is both informative and thorough, and guided by employees of the brewery chosen for their experience and interest in the brewing process. The brewery itself, dating from 1980, is fairly impressive and thoroughly modern. The first hour of the tour consists of a waltz through the production process, fermentation and mashing, as well as the usual guff about water purity and the like. The most striking thing about the production plant is the lack of humans and the sheer amount of sparkling steel and technology. For your second hour you’ll be whisked off to an exhibition detailing the history of Wielkopolska breweries. Later, have your photo taken inside a huge can of Lech, which you can then instantly email to all of your friends, or get involved in the bottling process which is guaranteed to bring out the child engineer in everyone. The tour finishes with a wellearned beer, which you can choose from their portfolio of brands, and you of course exit through the gift shop.

To get to the brewery take tram 16 from ‘Most Teatralny’ (E-6) or 18 from ‘Rondo Kaponiera’ to ‘Szwajcarska’ and you can’t miss the brewery opposite the M1 shopping centre, as it has three huge towers draped in bright green Lech flags. Alternatively a taxi ride from the centre will set you back about 25zł.Qul. Szwajcarska 11 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 667 74 60, www.zwiedzaniebrowaru.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun, Tours start every 2 hours from 10:00 onwards with the last tour at 18:00. You should book a day in advance. Admission 25/20zł; groups over 20 people 23zł per person. Y 64 Poznań In Your Pocket

POZNAŃ ARMY MUSEUM See Citadel Park, p.71.QI‑4, Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. (+48) 663 86 64 14, www.wmn. poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł, Tue free; ticket also valid for the nearby Museum of Armaments. Y­N POZNAŃ BAMBER MUSEUM Learn more than you ever wanted to about the Bamber people inside an interesting museum that includes a 19th century timber house once owned by a wealthy Bamber farmer. Inside displays include a 17th century bonnet, looms, paintings, clothing, and timber furniture – everything you’d expect in an ethnographic museum.

QJ‑8, ul. Mostowa 7/9, tel. (+48) 605 62 16 11, www. bambrzy.poznan.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 10:00 - 14:00.

Admission free. U WIELKOPOLSKA MARTYRS MUSEUM One of 18 forts built by the Prussians in the 1870s to protect Poznań’s perimeter, ‘Fort VII’ gained notoriety when it was used as a Gestapo penal camp between 1939 and 1944.

At least 18,000 Polish prisoners were processed here, of which 4,500 were murdered, though other estimates have the death toll as high as 20,000. The windswept grassy grounds make for a thought-provoking walk, along which visitors will see the ‘death wall’ - where up to seven prisoners were executed daily during Nazi rule,

Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum

Photo by Craig Broadbent

as well as dark underground tunnels used as makeshift gas chambers. Elsewhere a vaulted brick room holds a small but haunting display that includes a guillotine, an execution block, truncheons, whips, and arrest warrants.

The personal effects of prisoners have also been preserved, including hand-written letters, playing cards, rosaries, and identity papers. Chillingly graffiti etched into the walls by prisoners can still be discerned, the writing framed with red and white ribbons. Reaching Fort VII is not an easy task, however. It’s found in the western suburbs, so your best bet is a taxi, with reputable drivers charging around 20-22zł for the journey.QAl. Polska (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 848 31 38, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 4/2zł. Tue free. Y­N iyp.me/poznan

the most modern breweries in Europe.

The tour will be completed by having a drink of

cold Lech Beer You will learn what wort is and what copper tuns are used for.

We are open

Monday to Saturday, 10 am to 6 pm

PREGNANT WOMAN SHOULD NOT DRINK ALCOHOL www.abcalkoholu.pl

tel. +48 61 66 77 460, e-mail: swiatlecha@kp.pl ul. Szwajcarska 11, 61-285 Poznań

www.zwiedzaniebrowaru.pl

Find out how beer is made in one of

Ostrów Tumski

Mood lighting at Cathedral Island | © Paweł Florczyk

Just north-east of the centre of Poznań sits Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island) - the island where Poznań was founded, and “where Poland began” in the words of Pope John Paul II. According to the prolific legend, three Slav brothers known as Lech, Czech and Rus met on this tiny island after not seeing each other for many years. To commemorate their reunion the brothers named the place ‘Poznać,’ after the Polish word for ‘to meet.’ From there the island thrived, with a castle erected in the 9th century and Ostrów Tumski becoming a major centre of the Piast state. More than a millennium ago one of Poland’s first rulers, Mieszko I, ushered the country into Catholicism here and soon after the first bishopric was established in 968. The first iteration of the Cathedral of Poznań was built in the second half of the 10th century, and in the island’s thousand-year history it has been home to kings and bishops alike. Remains of 19th century Prussian fortifications are still visible on the Cybina riverside, easily viewable from the Jordan Bridge (I-3). In more recent times the Communists showed their disdain for the Catholic Church’s heavy presence in Poznań by building a road across the island that bisected the Archbishop’s garden (what jerks!).

A trip to Ostrów Tumski not only makes a peaceful respite from the tackiness and tourist noise of Stary Rynek, but also serves as an important crash course on early Polish history and Poznań’s role in the country’s birth as a nation. Taking that task on as its very mission, in fact, is the new Porta Posnania Centre, which straddles the river (with its own bridge) between Ostrów Tumski and Śródka, and should be considered the mandatory starting point for all visitors before carrying on to the magnificent Poznań Cathedral itself.

66 Poznań In Your Pocket

PORTA POSNANIA INTERACTIVE HERITAGE CENTRE OF CATHEDRAL ISLAND Opened in early 2014, this modern culture complex symbolically connects Poznań’s two oldest districts - Ostrów Tumski and Śródka - via a covered ‘skywalk’ bridge between the main exhibition building and the Cathedral Lock - a restored section of the former Prussian river fortifications.

The main building is actually on the Śródka side of the Cybina River, and presents the fascinating history of the area from medieval times to the modern day, emphasising its importance to Polish national identity along the way, via an excellent audioguide and interactive multimedia displays designed for the entire family. The touring route concludes by leading visitors across the ‘skywalk’ straight into Ostrów Tumski itself, making this the ideal starting point for exploring the district. The audioguides are an extra charge, but are intended to be used to explore not just the Centre, but the entire district. Available in English, German, French, Spanish, Czech, and Russian, there are three specially designed audiotour routes - one for individuals, one for groups, and one for families - that make the experience worthwhile for everyone, especially kids.

Topping it off is a souvenir shop and a lovely rooftop terrace (open during the warm season only) that offers unique views of Poznań Cathedral and the surrounding area.

Highly recommended.QL‑6, ul. Gdańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 647 76 34, www.bramapoznania.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission for the permanent exhibition 15/9zł. Family ticket (up to 5 people) 30zł. Group tickets (up to 10 people) 8zł per person. Audio guide 5/3zł, family 10zł. U iyp.me/poznan

o Ostrów Tumski

Św. Winc enteg

© OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.

Scale 1:10 000 1 cm = 100 m

5

200 m

Genius Loci Archeological Park

wa Wieżo

POZNAŃ CATHEDRAL The most stunning site on Ostrów Tumski is certainly Peter & Paul Cathedral, more commonly called ‘Poznań Cathedral,’ which ‘Cathedral Island’ takes its name from.

Originally erected way, way back in 968, this was the first cathedral in Poland, and has had a storied history. As it was razed, rebuilt and remodelled numerous times over the centuries, each resulted in the addition of a new architectural style: a 1622 fire led to a Baroque finish, while a 1722 fire ushered in a change to neo-Classicism.

During the 1945 battle to liberate Poznań, 65 percent of the Cathedral again burned down, exposing the building’s buried Gothic elements and leading to its restoration in the style visitors see today.

The interior is a trove of sacral and historical treasures, surrounded by twelve different chapels, including the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, which has several outstanding examples of Renaissance art (the tombstones of the Górka family and Bishop Benedykt Izbieński, to be specific) and the Baroque altar houses a miraculous crucifix brought to the Cathedral from the former Wrocławska town gate. The Golden Chapel was designed as the mausoleum of the first Polish monarchs and houses the sarcophagi of Kings Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry; the two kings are also depicted in a bronze monument together, above which is a painting by January Suchodolski showing Mieszko I, the instigator of Catholicism in Poland, destroying pagan idols.

The eye-catching high altar at the centre of the Cathedral is a 14th/15th polyptych depicting Our Lady surrounded by 14 female saints, while the outer wings feature eight paintings depicting the Passion of the Christ. The Cathedral’s lavish Baroque pulpit is equally stunning and dates to 1720. Also worth noting are the Cathedral’s five Gothic and early Renaissance bronze tomb slabs, which originated at the famed Nuremburg workshop of iyp.me/polandblog

sk a

6

Hotel Śródka Wy s z y ński eg

W AL E

St. Margaret's Rynek Śródecki

D WALE

Reformist St. Kazimierz Monastery

D PO

o

Rondo Śródka

L

M

II

K

Wy

kiego szyńs

aI Mieszk g Brid e

Cafe La Ruina Raj Dynx Śr ó dk Wspólny Stół a

Herman and Peter Vischer. The slabs were originally on the Cathedral floor to cover the entrances to tombs, but were later mounted on pillars and chapel walls. Stolen during the war, the slabs were returned to Poznań in 1993 and are back on display.

PA W ŁA

Os tró

Chrobrego Bridge

Jordan Bridge

rze

Church of the Virgin Mary

Zagó

6

Poznań Cathedral ski Tum w

Gdańska

Vine Bridge

By dg o

Panny Marii

Porta Posnania

ks. Posadzego Archdiocese Museum

PO

100

JAN A

0

Visit the vestry to request entry to the crypt, where you’ll see evidence of the pre-Romanesque and Romanesque versions of the Cathedral, and a 10th century baptismal font most likely used to baptise the first Polish sovereign and his subjects. Excavations here also unearthed two tombs, most likely of the first Polish monarchs Mieszko I and King Bolesław Chrobry. The second crypt houses an exhibition of artefacts found during the excavation, and it also leads to the crypt of the Poznań archbishops. Be aware that the lights in the crypt are motion-activated, so if you stand and look too long, you’ll suddenly end up in the dark.

QK‑6, Ostrów Tumski 17, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www. katedra.archpoznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00. No visiting during mass please. Crypt entrance 3.50/2.50zł, rest of the Cathedral free.

Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre of Cathedral Island

November 2017 - February 2018

67

Ostrów Tumski ŚRÓDKA

Once you’ve explored Ostrów Tumski, the next natural step is to cross the red Jordan Bridge over into the ancient - and irresistibly cute - Sródka neighbourhood.

Once its own town, Śródka was named in honour of its weekly Wednesday market (‘Środa’ means ‘Wednesday’ in Polish), and records suggest the small enclave had urban features and its own autonomous government as early as the mid-1200s. The presence of Dominican monks, along with the regular market, gave Śródka prominence in the area, which unfortunately didn’t last long; the monks picked up and moved across the Warta River, and Przemysł II (who subsequently became King of Poland) turned the city over to the control of the Bishopric in the 13th century. Suddenly reduced to the role of supplier to Ostrów Tumski, Śródka would continue to slide in prominence as the nearby city of Poznań grew. Śródka had a revitalization of sorts in the 17th century when orders of Phillippines and Reformists swept in and established churches and residences in the city, yet Śródka was nonetheless absorbed into Poznań in 1800. During Prussian times the city was part of a fortified zone that didn’t improve its fate, nor did the regular occurrence of floods and fires. During World War II much of the city’s centre at Rynek Śródecki (the location around St. Margaret’s Church) was destroyed, and the arrival of the People’s Republic of Poland, which slapped a garish highway across the Archbishop’s gardens and Ostrów Tumski, didn’t improve the area either. But much like Ostrówek, Śródka is slowly experiencing a noticeable revitalization.

CHURCH OF THE VIRGIN MARY This small Gothic church was built in 1432-1448 and is modelled on the West Pomeranian building style, with a three-nave hall, star vaulting, and polychromatic decorations. The altar was designed by Wacław Taranczewski in 1954. The adjoining building with the crowstep gables is a Late Gothic Psalteria, dating to 1518, which contained flats for the clergy. Unfortunately the church is closed for renovation until late 2017, so it is presently impossible to get inside.QK‑6, ul. Panny Marii, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra.archpoznan.pl.

ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM Adjacent to the Cathedral is the large Lubrański Academy building, once home to Bishop Jan Lubrański’s institute of higher learning and today the Museum of the Archdiocese.

The first floor is devoted to temporary exhibits, while the next two floors are filled with all manner of religious art and relics, including the Sword of Saint Peter, numerous statues and paintings of the Madonna, Jesus, and various saints, plus well-preserved robes and heavily-bejewelled rings from Poznan’s long line-up of bishops.QK‑6, ul.

Lubrańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum. poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 8/5zł, family ticket 12zł. Y­N GENIUS LOCI ARCHEOLOGICAL PARK Genius Loci gives a different view on Poznań’s medieval genesis by unearthing, reconstructing, and offering insight into the lives of those early individuals who inhabited the island one thousand years ago. Explore multimedia displays and documentary films, and brave the glass walkways while peering down at the city’s original walls and embankments. The audioguide (included in the price) comes in both Polish and English and helps explain how Poznań took shape centuries ago.QK‑6, ul. Ks. I. Posadzego 3, tel. (+48) 61 852 21 67, www.muzarp. poznan.pl/rezerwat. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł, family ticket 10zł. Sun free. Y

There are some surprisingly good eats to be found here - our all-time favourite quirky eatery is Raj (p.29), which has some of the most unique decor around, complete with a mini cinema; Wspólny Stół (p.40) combines a community feel with a modern ambience, while Na Winklu (p.40) offers must-try traditional Polish pierogi with some exciting non-traditional fillings.

Genius Loci Archeological Park

68 Poznań In Your Pocket

MOs810/pl.wikipedia.org/CC BY-SA 3.0

iyp.me/poznan

Citadel Park

The Museum of Armaments in Fort Winiary

Just north of Poznań’s Old Town sits Winiary Hill and 89 hectares of picture-perfect green space known as Citadel Park. Much like any coveted location in Poland, this scenic overlook has a long history that involves multiple name changes, military battles and even some old-fashioned mystery. For visitors, the park offers not only beautiful promenades and leafy city escapes, but also a plethora of monuments, museums and historical tales.

The hill itself didn’t become notable until Prussia took over Poland in 1793 and Poznań suddenly found itself in a strategic location on the Prussian-Russian border, less than 300km from Berlin. A fort seemed in order, and design responsibilities were given over to the exasperatinglynamed General Carl Wilhelm Georg von Grolman. Work began in 1828 after moving two villages - Winiary and Bonin - to make room, and continued over the next decade.

The result was an impressive polygonal brick fortress with 1.3-1.8 metre-thick walls, observation towers, artillery decks and even a moat, making it the central element of the city’s defences.

Despite the efforts that went into the construction, and seemingly opportune wars with Denmark, Austria and France, the fort saw little military action, instead serving as a military prison throughout the 19th century. By the time WWI arrived, the fort was too outdated for modern warfare and played no role until it was captured by insurgents during the Wielkopolska Uprising in 1918, after which it iyp.me/polandblog

was home to Polish army units throughout the inter-war years. When Nazi Germany occupied Poland in 1939 the fort returned to its role as a POW camp (British, Russian and Polish soldiers ended up here) until it was thrust into the history books as the final Nazi stronghold during the Battle of Poznań in 1945, finally captured by the Soviets on February 23, 1945.

After the war, the ravaged and obsolete fort was largely dismantled, contributing its bricks to help rebuild local housing estates and decimated cities like Warsaw. Yet plenty of the fort still remains, and those intrepid enough to wander off the park’s paths will be rewarded with a close-up look at history (this is where a guide comes in handy, as ours pointed out locations of strategic Russian movements, how the fort was breached, and even the charred bricks where a group of the last German soldiers evidently met their end). Under communism, the fort and surrounding area were given a new strategic purpose when Winiary Hill was turned into the chummy ‘Monument Park of Polish-Russian Friendship and Brotherhood’ in 1962, and a Russian cemetery and Red Army memorial soon found a home here. Re-dubbed ‘Citadel Hall’ in 1992 after the regime finally fell, today visitors will find this former military stronghold is home to art installations, monuments, several museums, cemeteries and large outdoor events. There are few better ways to spend an afternoon in Poznań than exploring all there is to see and do in the city’s largest park.

November 2017 - February 2018

69

Citadel Park WHAT TO SEE BRITISH MILITARY CEMETERY

Citadel Park hosts several cemeteries, but the one typically of most interest to tourists is British Military Cemetery (also known as the Commonwealth Cemetery). Why? It’s here that you’ll find the graves of several of the men involved in what is now known as “The Great Escape” (it wasn’t just a movie folks!). In addition to the 174 servicemen from the First World War (all of whom died in various parts of Poland as prisoners of war) there are also 283 World War II servicemen buried in the cemetery. Many of those graves are airmen who died in bombing operations over what is now the Polish city of Szczecin, but there are also several graves of soldiers involved in the mass escape from Stalag Luft 3 in Żagań, a feat depicted in the popular Hollywood film, The Great Escape.

Following their daring escape, most of the fugitives were captured by the Nazis, executed and their ashes were buried in the local cemetery at Sagan/Żagań, before being later moved to the military cemetery in Poznań where they can be found today. To locate them enter the cemetery at al. Armii Poznań (H-4); turn right and you’ll see a large white cross and the graves of most of the murdered. The man considered to be the mastermind of the escape is Squadron Leader Roger Bushell, renamed “Bartlett” in the film and portrayed by Richard Attenborough. Keep the name change in mind when looking for Bushell’s grave, and be sure to sign the visitor’s book that can be found inside a small door on the large white cross monument.QH‑4, Citadel Park. Open from dawn till dusk.

GETTING THERE If the weather is nice there’s no reason not to walk to Citadel Park from the Rynek. The stroll is just under 2km and should take 25-30 minutes. Those who prefer an (arguably) quicker route can grab bus number 51 from ‘Solna’ or either 74 or 90 from ‘Wielka’, getting off at ‘Garbary’ each time (just two stops away).

70 Poznań In Your Pocket

HEADLESS FIGURES Unveiled as part of Poznań’s 750th birthday celebrations in 2002, this massive troop of towering, headless cast iron figures marching aimlessly across Citadel Park is officially titled “Unrecognised” (“Nierozpoznani”). 112 in all, each measuring 2 metres tall, the odd installation is the work of local arts grad and international art star Magdalena Abakanowicz, who is keeping mum on its meaning. Those with ties to Chicago might recognise a similar installation in Grant Park, while a few more of Abakanowicz’s headless fright patrol can be found wandering lost in the courtyard of the Imperial Castle.QI‑3, Park Cytadela.

Archiwum Urzędu Miasta Poznania, fot. D. Krakowiak

MONUMENT TO THE HEROES OF THE POZNAŃ CITADEL One of the most noticeable features of Citadel Park is the Soviet Obelisk located prominently at the top of the grand staircase as you enter the park from Aleja Armii Poznań (H-4). The giant Socialist Realism column is dedicated to the Russian soldiers killed during the 1945 siege of the fort, and it’s most interesting aspect is perhaps the one you can no longer see: the large red star affixed to the top which disappeared in the dead of night after the fall of communism in Poland in 1989. Official complaints by the Russian Embassy to track down the star and its thieves were, unsurprisingly, largely ignored by police, and for years the public was left to speculate what became of the red emblem (a rumour that the star was filled with jewels proved to be one popular urban myth). In recent years, however, a local journalist looking into the mystery was able to swiftly solve it: local firemen had removed the star using their rescue ladders. They fessed up and turned it over without consequence to the city, which has plans to restore it and eventually put it on display at the Historical Museum of Poznań.QH‑4, Park Cytadela.

MUSEUM OF ARMAMENTS The remains of this Prussian fort (which was used as a war laboratory to produce gunpowder and shells during World War II) prove to be the perfect location for the Museum of Armaments, which features displays of various weaponry and ammunition as well as photos of battles from Poznań’s history. Most interesting for military buffs however is the outdoor exhibition laden with a whole host of war machinery including a T-34 tank, a ‘Katyusha’ rocket iyp.me/poznan

Citadel Park launcher, bombers and a MIG-15.QH‑3, Park Cytadela, tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł, Tue free; ticket also valid for the nearby Poznań Army Museum. Y­N POZNAŃ ARMY MUSEUM

Recently re-opened after a long renovation, the museum provides visitors with the chance to learn more about the city’s military history, with a particular focus on the Second World War and the inter-war period. A large number of items from these times are on display, including various newspaper cuttings, weapons, photos and uniforms. But other eras are covered too, with some artefacts - such as old bullets and army storage devices - dating back as far as 1897. Note that the ticket also includes entrance to the Museum of Armaments, also located in Citadel Park.QI‑4, Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. (+48) 663 86 64 14, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł, Tue free; ticket also valid for the nearby Museum of Armaments. Y­N THE BELL OF PEACE AND FRIENDSHIP AMONG NATIONS Erected in 1986, the ‘Bell of Peace and Friendship Among Nations’ was installed too late to spare Poznań from a largely turbulent 20th century, but it plays a role in the remembering when it’s rung on holidays and anniversaries such as Liberation Day (February 23rd) when the Germans capitulated at the fort during World War II. Weighing 850 kg, the dove-embossed bell hangs 10m above the ground and can allegedly be heard from 10km away.QI‑4, Park Cytadela.

Monument to the Heroes of the Poznań Citadel

iyp.me/polandblog

1945 BATTLE OF POZNAŃ Sadly, Poznań’s city centre shared the same fate as many Polish cities in the tragic events of WWII. Nearly 90% destroyed, the city had to be painstakingly reconstructed in the postwar years. While bombings were responsible for much of the structural damage, the real nail to the coffin came in the shape of the 1945 Battle of Poznań, a month-long confrontation between the advancing Soviet army and the retreating Nazis. The city had just been declared by Hitler to be a Festung - a stronghold where garrisons mounted last-ditch stands in the hopes of holding out behind advancing Soviet lines and disrupting supply transports and lines of communication.

40,000 German troops, including fortress garrison soldiers, regular field soldiers, Volkssturm, SS, and Police soldiers, barricaded themselves in 19th-century fortifications built during Prussian rule, including the Fort Winiary citadel. On January 24th, 100,000 Soviet forces led by General Chuikov moved in and encircled the city, beginning to attack and reduce the fortifications.

Systematically pushed into a smaller and smaller perimeter, by February 12th the Germans only held the citadel. Six days later the final assault began. Faced with a deep ditch and high rampart, the Soviet troops had no better option than to use ladders to cross (in a bizarrely Medieval twist), but once they did, fire opened from the citadel’s redoubts. It took the Soviets three days to neutralise the redoubts and build an impromptu bridge, which allowed tanks and heavy machinery to cross into the main grounds on February 22nd. At that point, luck had most definitely ran out for Nazi General Gonell and his army; Gonell committed suicide by shooting himself in the head, and the remaining 12,000 German soldiers were turned over to the victors by General Mattern. Today the Poznań Citadel Park is a historic site featuring military cemeteries, memorials, and two museums: the Museum of Armaments and the Poznań Army Museum.

The Old Town Hall had seen better days

November 2017 - February 2018

71

Jewish Poznań

The Old Synagogue/’Swimagogue’ at ul. Wroniecka 11A

The history of Jews in Poznań dates back to the first days of the city, though like so many other towns in Central and Eastern Europe this rich heritage was all but extinguished with the horrors that followed Hitler’s rise to power.

Although first recorded mention of a Jewish presence is dated to 1364, it is commonly accepted that the first Jewish settlers arrived in the 13th century when Prince Bolesław the Pious issued a decree granting Jews his protection. As Poznań grew so did the Jewish population, and by the start of the 15th century it’s estimated that one in four buildings on ulica Sukiennicza - the de facto centre of the Jewish community - were occupied by Jews, a fact not lost on city planners who promptly rechristened it ‘ulica Żydowska,’ or ‘Jewish Street’ (I-6/7). An influx of German burghers and suspicious arsons marked a 15th century decline for Poznań’s Jews, though Poznań’s Jewish population stood around 3,000 in the early 17th century when racial tensions reached a nadir with the infamous 1736 trial of Rabbi Yossef, who was accused of ritual slaughter and publicly burnt at the stake.

When the city fell under Prussian jurisdiction in the 19th century, however, Jews slowly found themselves accepted into the fold. Following the Great Fire of 1803 they were allowed to live freely throughout the rest of the city and as such ties between Jews and Germans strengthened.

In fact, so solid were these relations that the Jewish community rallied around the Germans during the 19181919 Wielkopolska Uprising, a fact not forgotten by the local Poles. When Poznań was absorbed into the Polish 72 Poznań In Your Pocket

nation in 1919 the Jews found themselves once more on the hard end of local feelings, and a significant number migrated west to Germany, where they expected greater tolerance.

With WWII looming, Poznań’s Jewish population stood around 1,500 - a number that would vanish soon after the city was annexed into the Third Reich in 1939. The city was named capital of the Wartegau province, and a plan was hatched to rid the city of its Jews within three months.

Deportations began on December 11th of the same year, with Jews packed into cattle trucks bound for the ghettos of Warsaw or Lublin, and on April 15, 1940, the fascist rag Ostdeutscher Beobachter gleefully reported the removal of the Star of David from the last synagogue left standing.

Those who remained in the Poznań region were sent to a labour camp next to the city stadium where their duties primarily consisted of building roads and other backbreaking work. The camp operated until August 1943, when the decision was taken to liquidate both camp and inmates. Indeed, Poznań was something of a model Nazi city, and on October 4, 1943, Heinrich Himmler gave a sordid speech to his Nazi cronies about the extermination of the Jewish people. A small number of Jews survived in hiding, and after the war several hundred actually returned to re-settle in the city. However no effort was made by the government to re-establish Jewish culture, and the subsequent anti-Zionist policies of the post-war communist government saw the number of Jews dwindle to well under a hundred. iyp.me/poznan

Jewish Poznań The Nazis were meticulous in their destruction of Jewish heritage and traces of it are few and far between today.

Rather miraculously, however, Poznań’s Old Synagogue (ul. Wroniecka 11A, I-6) survived the war by being converted into a swimming pool and rehabilitation centre for Wehrmacht officers. The ‘swimagogue’ (as it was cheekily known) was returned to the Jewish community in 2002, however disrepair forced its closure and plans for its restoration have stalled.

The early 19th century Jewish cemetery on ul.

Głogowska was destroyed and its tombstones used to pave roads during WWII, after which the area was incorporated into the Trade Fair grounds. In recent times, however, steps have been taken to commemorate its existence with a memorial plaque on ul. Głogowska 26A (C-9), and in 2008 a ceremony took place to commemorate Rabbi Akiva Eger - commonly accepted as Poznań’s greatest Rabbi. Previously a parking lot, his grave site has been turned into a grassy square named in his honour. A memorial to the victims of Poznań’s Nazi labour camp stands by the Multikino cinema (ul. Królowej Jadwigi 51, H-10), and prayer services take place each Friday at ul.

Stawna 10 (I-6).

JEWISH CEMETERY Entry by previous arrangement only; call +48 726 100 199 or e-mail gekafka@jewish.org.pl to set up your visit.QC‑9, ul. Głogowska 26A. NEW SYNAGOGUE (NOWA SYNAGOGA) Consecrated on September 5, 1907, the New Synagogue on ul. Wroniecka was once a much more lavish structure.

Designed by Berlin architects Cremer & Wolfenstein at a cost of one million marks (to put things in perspective, the cost of the Imperial Castle came to five million), the synagogue boasted a floor plan based on the Greek cross, space for 1,200 worshippers (600 men, 600 women), and

David Černý’s Golem statue stands right outside the National Museum (p. 63).

originally included a copper-plated dome. Following the outbreak of WWII the building was commandeered by the Nazis and redeveloped into a swimming pool and rehabilitation centre for Wehrmacht soldiers. After the war the synagogue continued to function as a municipal pool - leading some to jokingly brand it the ‘swimagogue’ - until the poor state of the building forced its closure.

Returned to the Jewish community in 2002, a gallery was opened instead, sporadically hosting free exhibits. Though plans have been raised to adapt it into a community centre complete with prayer halls, kosher restaurant, and conference facilities, the small problem of raising what was once estimated at $50 million USD (the number may be higher now) proved too large an obstacle. More recently, there has been talk of converting the building into an upscale hotel with a small commemorative museum, but it looks like those plans have been put on hold as well, and the synagogue currently stands empty, facing an uncertain future.QI‑6, ul. Wroniecka 11A.

THE JEWISH COMMUNITY

Monument to the victims of a Poznań concentration camp, Righteous Among the Nations Square

iyp.me/polandblog

Founded in 1999, Poznań’s Jewish community organises commemorative events and exhibitions around the city. Prayer services take place on Fridays at 19:00; contact them by email via poznan@jewish.org. pl for more information.QI‑6, ul. Stawna 10, www. poznan.jewish.org.pl.

November 2017 - February 2018

73

Leisure

Critter-spotting at Poznań’s New Zoo (p.77) | © Radosław Maciejewski, Fotoportal

Whether you’re looking to take a break from the bustle of the Rynek or just want an excuse to stretch your legs, Poznań offers a multitude of parks, green spaces and recreational activities to consider. First and foremost are the 89-hectare Citadel Park (see p.69) - full of leafy promenades, historical monuments and museums, and Lake Malta (p.76) - one of the most unique urban recreation areas on the continent. As such, we’ve devoted a separate section of our Leisure pages especially for all of the attractions and activities around Lake Malta’s shores, including fantastic family attractions like the New Zoo and the Maltese Baths water park and spa. Whatever you’re looking for, use the listings below to stay active in every season.

ICE SKATING BOGDANKA Entrance and skate hire from 8-12zł. Opens once the weather cooperates.QI‑5, ul. Północna 9, tel. (+48) 61 883 23 33, www.bogdanka.poznan.pl. Open 08:00 21:30.

INDOOR ATTRACTIONS BLUBRY6D If you ever thought of dropping some acid with your young children, here’s the legal way to do it. Put on a pair of 3D glasses and immerse yourself in a hallucinatory, bright-neon labyrinth of spastic trees, deranged mushrooms, and dizzying miscellany while listening to a narration about two Poznań legends 74 Poznań In Your Pocket

(offered in English, Polish, German, and Spanish). Do try to stay focused, as the staff will quiz you at the end of each room - the punishment for failing, presumably, is to leave you forever wandering the LSD maze from hell. The whole experience lasts around 30 minutes, but you’re almost guaranteed to lose all sense of space and time.QI‑6, ul. Wroniecka 6, tel. (+48) 61 307 04 46, www.blubry6d.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 17/15zł. U GEARUP! Big news for all amateur aviation enthusiasts: Poland’s first full flight simulator for the general public is here! This fully functional 737NG airliner simulator has been painstakingly modelled on the real thing, with not a single button out of place, and it can all be in your hands for 15, 30, 60, or 90 minutes. And if you’re looking for something to really jazz up a boring business meeting, an important birthday, or your n-th wedding anniversary, this might just be your no. 1 bet!QH‑9, ul. Kwiatowa 2, tel. (+48) 518 39 54 84, www. gearup.aero. Open 13:30 - 21:00, Sat 10:30 - 21:00, Sun 12:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. MK BOWLING At first glance, MK Bowling looks like a cross between an American diner and a night club - mainly down to the red booths, large bar, and larger choice of drinks including the very American option of ordering beer by the pitcher. It’s on the lanes (seven in total) where you’ll find the real fun, however, and there are plenty of daily promotions, including student discounts Mon-Thu until 17:00 (before which bowling is only 40zł/hour).QG‑7, iyp.me/poznan

Leisure ul. Święty Marcin 24 (Galeria MM), tel. (+48) 61 222 50 51, www.mkbowling.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. Prices vary depending on day of the week and hour of day: 12-18zł per person per game, or rent 1hr of lane time for everyone for 6999zł. W THE OLD ZOO One of Poland’s oldest zoos, the Old Zoo dates to 1874 and still has some picturesque old pavilions, but most of the critters have been carted off to the New Zoo on the other side of the city, and the Old Zoo has largely been reshaped as a public park. There is, however, a modern Reptile House here, where you can watch Komodo dragons strutting their stuff, pythons slithering, and caimans splashing around. It’s worth the admission price, and enjoyable to visit without the exhaustion and crowds of the New Zoo.QD‑7, ul.

Zwierzyniecka 19, tel. (+48) 61 848 08 47, www.zoo. poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission free; 8/6zł for the Reptile House. Y­U

SLEIGH RIDES PONY POZNAŃ 10zł per person per ride with a minimum of five needed, and rides must be pre-arranged by calling 61 842 28 45. Sleigh rides depend on weather (i.e. snow).Qul. Biskupińska 10a (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 506 14 52 61, www. pony-poznan.pl.

SPA & BEAUTY CENTRUM RELAKSU VASCO DA GAIA Vasco da Gaia prides itself on having Poznań’s only isolation tank (you know, one of those floatation tanks with warm water and epsom salt), but their entire offer reveals quite a holistic approach to relaxation: there are Russian sauna treatments with Siberian herb extracts, a selection of massages (some involving chocolate and honey), a Moroccan hammam experience, weight loss programmes, physiotherapy, and psychologists specialising in stress management. All in all, if you’re in need of some serious relaxation, this is the place to try.

Qul. Piłsudskiego 104, tel. (+48) 796 42 16 70, www. vascodagaia.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:30.

Closed Sun. HARMONIA SPA You’ll find pretty much all you could ever need for some serious ‘R&R’ (that’s rest and relaxation) in this 500m2 beauty salon and wellness club on the 2nd floor of the Andersia Hotel. Includes a swimming pool with hydromassage, jacuzzi, Finnish and steam sauna, gym, aerobics room, solarium, bar, and more.QG‑9, Pl. Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 667 83 00, www. spaharmonia.pl. Wellness section open 06:30 - 22:30; Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:30 (sauna, solarium, gym, jacuzzi).

Spa open 10:00 - 22:30 (body treatments). Y iyp.me/polandblog

THAI-LAND MASSAGE Sightseeing can be hard work, and sometimes a bit of relaxation time is in order. Be it a traditional Thai foot massage, an oil massage, hot compress, or a classic full body massage, it’s all done by Thai masseuses at this splendid parlour located a leisurely ten-minute walk away from the Main Square. Monthly promotions and passes give customers a welcome discount, so do try to take advantage of those. Try a traditional Thai foot massage, an oil massage, hot compress, or a classic full body massage at this Thai parlour.QH‑8, ul. Długa 14, tel. (+48) 510 40 45 04, www.thai-land.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.

THAI SMILE MASSAGE Anyone looking to escape the raucous buzz of Poz’s city centre could do a lot worse than relaxing with a fine massage. A peaceful, modern environment (with English speaking staff ) only five minutes from the market square, Thai Smile Massage is an ideal place to forget about the day’s woes while you let one of the authentic Thai massage therapists work their wonders. Two rooms to choose from (massage room and the oil room) and a cup of tea afterwards is enough for the IYP staff to give this place the thumbs up.QG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17/4, tel. (+48) 727 90 52 96, www.thai-smile.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.

/polandinyourpocket November 2017 - February 2018

75

Lake Malta MALTA SKATING RINK An indoor rink at Lake Malta with skate rental. For something a bit different visit on the weekend between 19:00 and 23:00, when DJs enter the ring and play ‘hot hits with hot girls.’ Here we list the prices and hours from last season, as this year’s weren’t determined at press time.

QM‑8, ul. Jana Pawła II (corner of ul. Abpa A. Baraniaka), tel. (+48) 61 877 03 54, www.malta.poznan.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. Season starts in midNovember and ends mid-March. Weekdays 9-6/6-4zł, weekends 11/8zł. Y

GETTING TO LAKE MALTA Lake Malta is situated just to the east of the city centre, and Rondo Śródka - at the lake’s northwest corner, is the best place to access it. Below are the public transport options from three main points in the centre.

Alternatively, a taxi from the centre to the north shore will cost about 30-35zł.

From the main train station (D-9): Take tram number 6 from the ‘Poznań Główny’ stop (walk just past the Avenida shopping centre going east) directly to ‘Baraniaka’. The journey takes about 14 minutes.

MALTA SKI Two ski slopes, one 150 metres in length, the other over 30 metres. Hours depend heavily on the weather. Private lessons with an English-speaking instructor are available for only 90zł Mon-Fri before 14:30.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 533 31 50 55​, www.maltaski.pl. Open 11:00

Of Poznań’s many lakes it’s Malta - to the east - that is the best known, and its surroundings are well worth further investigation. Formed in 1952 as a result of damming the Cybina, this 2.2km long lake is the largest man-made lake in the city, with an average depth of 3.1 metres. Surrounded by parks and woodland, it is today one of the principal recreation areas in the region - in both summer and winter - with an ice-rink, ski slope (the first in former communist Europe), a world-class regatta course, zoo, water park, and dozens of other attractions, including several historical sights. Just east of the centre, but miles from the madness of the market square, if you’re in town to decompress, head to Malta.

Mińska

8

ow

Tom ick

Koralowa

HP Park

Katow

ska

ick a

y kow Woł

76 Poznań In Your Pocket

N

O

Malta Ski Bar a

Sło

Malta Ski Mini Golf

Malta Yacht Club

nia ka

nim ska

P

Toboggon Run Pepsi

Wiank owa

ka

3 Kolory a Wi nkowa

ow

9

c

a sk

nia

ań Kr

w wo

iska

Ba ra

Taj India

e M alta

Inflan cka

K al

L

ka ańs Malt Zabrz ańsk a Polan ka

Nie me na

a ńsk gile

7

Modlińska

ńc Kra

Lak

Galeria Malta

Sow ia

Mo

Goplańska

Zambrowska

Pułtuska

Czekalskie

ska ileń W

ka

Pusta

Nowogrodzka

Brzeska

Tro c

6

a Camping-Hotel Malta N°155 Rycerska

Barania ka

M

S

WARSZAWSKA

Łomżyńska

8

10

a sk yń

Grodzieńska Maltese Baths

Posnania

z str Ko

Warszawska

Lidzka

Novotel Malta

MaltaBike

9

R

a ow

Wake Park Malta Malta Fountain

Park Tysiąclecia

Witkowska Swa rzę dz Powidzka ka

Termalna

Monument

WARSZAWSKA

Termalna

ay ilw Ra ini aM nk lta Ma

7SS Poznań

Q

ńc

St. John of Jerusalem Church Outside the Wall

Zdrojowa

P

Kra

Śródka

O

Św.

Mic hał a

N

ie go

6RondoM

Malta Ski Slope

Augustowska

From the Old Town Square: Take tram number 3, 16, or 17 from either ‘Pl. Wielkopolski’ (H-6) or ‘Małe Garbary’ (I-6) to ‘Rondo Śródka’.

a The New ZOO

Pyrland Park Freedom Mound

Q

Wielkopolska Uprising Scouts' Monument

R

10

Scale 1:18 500

1 cm = 185 m iyp.me/poznan 0 m

150

300 m

Lake Malta

Malta Ski Slope

- 20:00. Prices are 19-40zł for normal passes, 15-34zł for reduced passes. Private lessons with an English speaking instructor are 120zł (requires booking two days in advance). Ski and snowboard rental is included in price. Y

ST. JOHN OF JERUSALEM CHURCH OUTSIDE THE WALL ‘Outside the wall’? A strange but accurate name that refers to St. John’s location outside the medieval defensive wall that once surrounded the city. This is the oldest standing church in Poznań and the city’s second-oldest building after the Cathedral. It was built for the Knights of Malta at the turn of the 12th century in the Romanesque style, with the nave and presbytery in a Venedic arrangement. After a fire in 1512 a star-vaulted ceiling was built over the nave, and a nave and tower were added to the north side. Age aside, the building’s main draw is a rare Late Gothic triptych from the early 16th century and its location on the shores of Lake Malta. Unfortunately the church is currently undergoing renovations, so visiting the interior might not be possible.

QM‑7, ul. Świętojańska 1, tel. (+48) 61 877 17 17, www. janjerozolimski.archpoznan.pl. Open during mass only for individuals, and by prior arrangement for groups.

MALTA SKI EQUIPMENT RENTAL Rent bikes, eco-bikes, etc. in summer and skis and snowboards during the winter. Those looking for equipment for Malta Ski should visit the internal ski rental situated near the Malta Ski slopes.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 533 31 50 55​, www.maltaski.pl. Opening hours depend on the weather. Y MALTESE BATHS Located on the north shore of Lake Malta this year-round facility offers sport pools (one Olympic-sized and another with a 10-metre diving tower), a water park (a series of 16 pools including a wave pool and children’s play pool), and 13 water slides along with two wild rivers. There is also the World of Saunas (14 saunas, two of which are outdoors, and a vapour bath) and, most recently, a full spa complex (Spa 1306) with underground thermal springs, offering therapeutic and beauty baths, massage, hydromassage, rehabilitation, Wellness treatments (Turkish Hammam, Rasoul mud bath) and more from the fully trained staff.QP‑8, ul. Termalna 1, tel. (+48) 61 222 61 61, www.termymaltanskie.com.pl.

Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 23:00; SPA open 10:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Prices start at 9zł for sports pools and water spark, 15zł for spa. Y

www.termymaltanskie.com.pl

iyp.me/polandblog

St. John of Jerusalem Church Outside the Wall

THE NEW ZOO The 116 hectare New Zoo was opened to the public in 1974 after seven years of construction. Housing over 2,000 beasts representing 140 species, it’s comprised of 60 percent pine and mixed forests with a manmade stream and string of ponds running through the grounds. In this way many of the creatures live in recreations of their natural habitats rather than concrete pens. Highlights include the modern elephant house, and circling the whole shebang is a seasonal mini-railway, meaning visitors can jump off at whatever creature cage takes their fancy.

As the zoo is located beyond the far east end of Lake Malta (not actually on the lake), during the summer you can get there by taking the Maltanka mini-railway to the last stop ‘Zwierzyniec’. If coming from the centre of Poz, take tram 8 from ‘Plac Wielkopolski’ to ‘Krańcowa’.

Alternatively, a taxi from the centre costs about 30zł.

Qul. Krańcowa 81 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 877 35 17, www.zoo.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10zł.

Y­U November 2017 - February 2018

77

Shopping

Shopping for small treasures at Lilou

Yes, that’s a Burberry store you see in Poznań. And Armani.

Even Versace. You can wander through the vast, awardwinning Stary Browar mall or the new Avenida Poznań spending złoty until you’ve solved the European debt crisis, but if you’re bringing gifts back to show your loved ones what a trip to Poznań is like, a Burberry bag made in London won’t cut it. That’s why throughout this section we’ve made an effort to list establishments selling gifts that actually say, “I went to Poland.”

ALCOHOL You may have noticed that here in PL, it’s a bit of a drinking culture; more of a national pastime, really, compared to the country’s success at football. Indeed, nothing says ‘I’ve been to Poland’ like a suitcase of vodka (a new bride being the second hottest commodity). The Poles have been distilling and draining vodka since the early Middle Ages, and Poland can make a legitimate claim as the spirit’s primordial homeland. As such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir list, even if it’s not to your taste. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands you’ll find in fancy gift sets, but don’t miss Żubrówka (bison grass vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka) and Żołądkowa Gorzka (herbal stomach liqueur). Alcohol shops are more ubiquitous than churches and cabbage in this country, so you should have no trouble stocking up at any time of night.

BASILIUM A shop for serious beer lovers, Basilium stocks around 150 different types of the stuff, giving you a good chance to 78 Poznań In Your Pocket

take home a few quality local flavours with a bit more character than the mass-produced brews found stocked in supermarkets and local chain stores. The friendly staff are more than happy to go through the choices with anyone looking for advice before making their purchase.QI‑7, ul.

Woźna 21, tel. (+48) 790 33 37 56. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Mon 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 23:00.

AMBER & JEWELLERY Vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland; the country is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse.

GALERIA YES YES jewellery stores can be found throughout Poland, but this location on ul. Paderewskiego sets itself apart by being an exclusive gallery, curated by YES founder Magda Kwiatkiewicz herself, showcasing the highest achievements in artistic jewellery by Polish designers. As such, it has played a significant role in the shape and direction of the Polish jewellery market for over a decade, and in addition to their lovely commercial display cases, the exhibits held here are always worth a peek.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 851 58 48, www.galeriayes.pl. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. iyp.me/poznan

Shopping LILOU Pendants, charms, and delicate chains abound in this boutique-y jewellery shop staffed by immaculately-attired ladies keen to assist and advise potential buyers. Glamorous but not intimidating, this is the place to browse miniature shiny trinkets during an afternoon shopping break. Also located at the Posnania Shopping Centre (ul. Pleszewska 1, Mon-Thu and Sat 10:00-22:00, Fri 10:00-23:00, Sun 10:0021:00).QG‑7, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. (+48) 797 33 43 52, www.lilouparis.com/en. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. ŚWIAT BURSZTYNU Major amber retailer and wholesaler with over 25 years of experience to their name - that’s a lot in a country that only returned to a market economy in 1989. Now with two locations, the second being the newly-opened Posnania Shopping Centre located at ul. Pleszewska 1.QG‑9, ul.

Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 66 88/(+48) 607 07 07 33, www.desta-amber. com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

W. KRUK Poland’s oldest and most revered chain of jewellery stores caters to men and women with tastes that range from classic amber pendants and Tag Heuer watches to modern designs of their own making. Also at ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar, G-4) and ul. Maltańska 1 (Galeria Malta, J-4).QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 2, tel. (+48) 661 98 05 61, www. wkruk.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

ART & ANTIQUES The historic centre is filled to bursting with dusty little stores selling antiques (look for signs saying ‘Antyki’ or ‘Antykwariat’). A quick exploration of the side streets will reveal everything from WWII memorabilia to 19th century coins and navigational charts. Do remember when purchasing that permission will be required if you’re planning on taking anything pre-1945 out of the country for the most part such a certificate will be provided by the shop, though do check beforehand.

*NEW SHOP WINDOW STICKER

TAX FREE SHOPPING Your Passport to Great Savings, The World Over (more information at gb’s website)

1. You are a non-EU traveler 2. In the shop you spent a minimum of 200 PLN 3. You export the purchased goods outside of the EU

YOU CAN USE THE TAX FREE SHOPPING SERVICE

Sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card

globalblue.com/join

iyp.me/polandblog

MARKETS

Poznań’s open-air markets are the best places to get cheap local produce and some of the only places in the centre where you can buy vegetables that aren’t white or in jars. Add to that meats, cheeses, spices, baked goods, doorknobs, dog leashes, pagers, potholders and literally anything else you can think of and you’ve got yourself a nifty cultural experience as well. Practise your “Proszę” and point skills at any of the unique shopping environments listed below, and remember that haggling and attempting to pay with large bills will both be met with disdain.

JEŻYCE MARKET One of Poznań’s most historic and centrally located markets is just west of the Old Town on historic Rynek Jeżycki. Established in 1891, this was once one of the city’s finest market squares, as evidenced by the faded glory of some of the intricate Art Nouveau facades on the tenement buildings that surround it. Lately the area has been going through a bit of a resurgence, and though the market itself may be a bit tatty and you can hardly expect English to be spoken or understood, the 400 merchant stalls here are still a good place to pick up fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as peruse clothing and other random goods you might be wiser not to take home. You certainly won’t beat the prices.QC‑6, Rynek Jeżycki, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open 06:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. WIELKOPOLSKA MARKET With Poznań’s historic main market square apparently not big enough, fruit and veg merchants have been relegated to this 1600 square metre plaza only a few minutes walk away. Renovated and generally more orderly than some of Poz’s other open-air markets, this is the best place for fresh produce in the Old Town. Among its 200 tent-covered stalls you’ll also find copious amounts of meat, cheese, nuts, and other food products, fresh-cut flowers, pots and pans, socks and sweatpants, sweets, screws, staplers, toilet scrubbers, and whatever else you can imagine.QH‑6, Pl. Wielkopolski, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open 06:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. November 2017 - February 2018

79

Shopping ANTYKWARIAT Solid collection of antiques collected by Piotr Sobisiak. On offer is furniture, porcelain, silver cutlery, pitchers, jewellery and other pre-war treasures.QG‑7, ul. Kantaka 10, tel. (+48) 61 851 88 10, www.gem-art.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. ANTYKWARIAT (ANTIQUE SHOP) Specialises in old toys, technological relics, pre-war postcards, and other special keepsakes.QI‑7, ul. Klasztorna 1, tel. (+48) 61 851 75 13. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. ANTYKWARIAT NAUKOWY A vintage bookseller that rewards those who are patient enough to dig through boxes of old postcards, prints, and telegrams. It’s easy to lose track of time while meandering along the well-stocked shelves.QH‑7, ul.

Paderewskiego 3/5, tel. (+48) 61 852 63 12, www. antykwariat.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun.

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILM EMPIK This large store is a one-stop shop for foreign press and magazines (prices are gougey though), guidebooks, there’s a somewhat decent English-language book selection, CDs, DVD, video games and more. Find them in almost any Polish shopping mall. Also in Galeria Malta (M-9).QG‑9, ul.

Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 667 12 00, www.empik.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

VINYLGATE RECORDSTORE Worth seeking out, this is Poznań’s best music store full of thousands of new and used vinyl records and CDs covering all genres, but also with an emphasis on more contemporary DJ-favoured sounds like techno, house, electronica, drum’n’bass, breakbeat, etc. Inside you’ll also find plenty of DJ and home stereo equipment, accessories for taking care of records, music merch and other gear that make the crew behind Vinylgate the leading ambassadors for the city’s vinyl revival.

QF‑7, ul. Garncarska 3, tel. (+48) 501 72 77 97, www. vinylgate.eu. Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00.

Closed Mon, Sun.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES PROJEKT IWONA RYCHLEWICZ Discover high-quality fashion by assorted Polish designers in this small, industrial-style boutique. True to slow living principles, none of the furnishings in the shop came from retail chains (be it the checkout counter, radiator, or lamps), and many items are for sale just ask.QD‑5, ul. R. Strzałkowskiego 11/2A, tel. (+48) 512 08 02 60. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. 80 Poznań In Your Pocket

TUTU The Stary Browar shopping complex is worth visiting for a number of reasons, the plethora of art installations being one, and this concept store being another; if stricken by a sudden impulse to go clothes shopping, forget the chain stores you can find in any city and head to this glitzy shop selling fashions exclusively by Polish designers. A word of warning - the prices will be steep.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 606 29 36 24, www.tutupoznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 20:00.

FOOD & SWEETS PRODUKTY BENEDYKTYŃSKIE This shop, set up by and in support of the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey, sells such an astounding variety of products - cheese, jam, wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two eyebrows over how they find the time. All the products are completely natural, without pigment, and unilaterally excellent. They make excellent gifts and can even be purchased through their multilingual website - and yes, the beer is every bit as good you’d expect.QH‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 12/2a, tel. (+48) 734 16 91 50, www.produktybenedyktynskie. com.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 19:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. SŁODKIE CZARY MARY A charming and colourful sweets shop where young ladies roll out the delicious goodies that cover the shelves, while children and their parents watch in wonder. Choose from a range of reasonably-priced lollipops and hard candies that come in dozens of flavours from rhubarb to whiskey-cola. A unique experience for kids, candy-making demonstrations take place regularly throughout the day.

QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 12, tel. (+48) 511 59 29 19, www. slodkieczarymarypoznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS CEPELIA A leading chain of souvenir shops selling native arts and handicrafts.QI‑7, ul. Klasztorna 21, tel. (+48) 61 852 58 14, www.cepelia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Sun. NEW HANDMADE For souvenirs which are both authentic and actually useful, hand-painted pottery is the way to go; easily recognisable across Poland, these beauties from the Bolesławiec Pottery Factory have a trademark look and a tradition dating back to the 14th century. We recommend skipping the tacky tourist kitsch and considering Handmade your one-stopshop for gifts to bring back home. Whisper “IYP” to the cashier for a special 5% discount.QF‑7, ul. Mielżyńskiego 16, tel. (+48) 61 284 17 04. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. iyp.me/poznan

Lilou Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang.

Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand.

Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls.

Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry.

POZNAŃ, 21 Wrocławska Street, POSNANIA SHOPPING & LIFESTYLE 1 Pleszewska Street

lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

Lilou Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

Shopping GALERIA MALTA Located right next to Poznań’s Lake Malta, Galeria Malta is the largest retail and entertainment centre in western Poland with over 162,000 square metres of shopping and leisure opportunities. Opened in March 2009, Malta features a Multikino as well as an H&M, TK Maxx, Benneton, Tatuum, Pako Lorente, Guess, Empik, and Manicure Express. Dining opportunities include Salad&Co and Costa Coffee. Trams 16, 17, and 18 all stop nearby (at either “Kórnicka” or “Baraniaka”).

QN‑9, ul. Maltańska 1, tel. (+48) 61 658 10 22, www. galeriamalta.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

GALERIA MM A shopping mall right in the city centre for all your shopping needs, be it clothes, a tall caramel frappuccino, make-up, or the sudden urge to go bowling. The location just can’t be beat - a five minute walk away from the Main Square, the Galeria MM is named after the two streets that intersect at its address, ul. Święty Marcin and Aleje Marcinkowskiego.

Behind the eye-popping love-it-or-hate-it facade you’ll find around fifty popular stores.QG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 24, tel. (+48) 61 855 22 94, www.galeriamm.poznan.pl.

Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

SALON POSNANIA A wide selection of souvenirs connected with Poznań including lots of stuff with the most popular symbols of Poznań. Pick up t-shirts, cups, ornaments, post cards, and the like all associated with the head-banging goats for instance. You’ll also find the most popular selection of books and albums relating to Poznań, Wielkopolska and Poland in foreign languages as well as locally produced art. A smaller selection of the above is also available at Stary Rynek 59/60 (I-7) and at the airport.QG‑7, ul.

Ratajczaka 44, tel. (+48) 61 854 07 54, www.cim.poznan.pl.

Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Y

SHOPPING MALLS AVENIDA POZNAŃ Shopping ‘centres’ simply don’t get any more ‘central’ than this modern marvel located right next to Poznań’s impressive new train station (lovingly dubbed ‘the breadbox’); as such, it couldn’t possibly be better connected to public transport or easier to get to and from. Featuring over 200 retail spaces, including Saturn, H&M, TK Maxx, Empik, and Peek & Cloppenburg, Avenida Pozań - formerly Poznań City Center also offers plenty of cafes, restaurants and fast food eateries, as well as a multi-level parking garage. Opened in October 2013, if nothing else this mega-complex is worth checking out just to appreciate how much Poznań has developed and progressed over the last several years.QE‑9, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 61 627 01 90, www.avenidapoznan. com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

82 Poznań In Your Pocket

POSNANIA Poznań’s new shopping behemoth swung its doors open in late 2016 in a style so lavish, even Eva Longoria couldn’t keep away (yes, it’s not everyday that random Polish shopping malls manage to invite A-list celebrities). Inspired perhaps by the celebrated Stary Browar shopping complex, which manages to seamlessly blend retail space with creative contemporary art, Posnania collaborates with Pop-up Galerie 208 to integrate unique sculptures and installations into its layout. The most eye-catching of those is David Mesguich’s Lucie, the sculpture of a little girl symbolising the future, located outside near the main entrance. Oh, and the shopping? They’ve got brands like Aldo, Forever 21, Guess, MAC, Sephora, Steve Madden, and many more.

QM‑10, ul. Pleszewska 1, tel. (+48) 61 628 65 27, www. posnania.eu. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

STARY BROWAR Housed in an old brewery dating from 1844, the awardwinning Stary Browar complex has been dubbed an art, leisure, and shopping extravaganza, and its success a sign of Poznań’s economic renaissance. Its opening in 2003 also marked a successful move away from out-of-town developments, and a new trend for inner-city regeneration projects. Originally home to the Huggerów Brewery, the building produced beer until 1980, then mineral water until 1998, when it was bought by the Fortis Group and a $66 million USD investment transformed it into the shopping and entertainment Mecca it is today. Home to tonnes of art and outstanding design details, Stary Browar also features a 5-Star hotel, dozens of restaurants, cafes, and bars, and over 200 retail spaces, in which you’ll find both name brands and popular chain stores.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 601 34 84 83, www.starybrowar5050.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. iyp.me/poznan

Shopping

BIGGEST SHOPPING IN THE CENTER OF POZNAŃ

200 STORES 30 RESTAURANTS THE ONLY STORE IN POZNAŃ

iyp.me/polandblog

November 2017 - February 2018

83

Directory 24HR PHARMACIES APTEKA DBAM O ZDROWIE QG‑6, ul. 23 Lutego 18, tel. (+48) 61 852 26 25.

24HR SHOPS LOTOS QL‑7, ul. Jana Pawła II 2, tel. (+48) 519 07 56 26.

MAŁGOSIA QG‑6, ul. Karola Libelta 6.

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES In Poznań, unfortunately, unless you are Russian or American, your nearest embassy is likely in the capital, Warsaw, some 310km away.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE

AMERICAN CONSULATE IN POZNAŃ QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 851 85 16, https://pl.usembassy.gov/pl.

AUSTRIAN HONORARY CONSULATE IN POZNAŃ QF‑7, ul. Aleksandra Fredry 1/18, tel. (+48) 61 855 19 911 19, www.konsulataustrii.pl.

RUSSIAN CONSULATE IN POZNAŃ Qul. Bukowska 53A, tel. (+48) 61 841 77 40, www.poznan.mid.ru.

EMERGENCY ROOMS HCP - CENTRUM MEDYCZNE Qul. 28 Czerwca 1956 r. 194 (Wilda), tel. (+48) 61 22 74 181, www.centrum-medyczne-hcp.pl.

SZPITAL MIEJSKI IM. JÓZEFA STRUSIA Qul. Szwajcarska 3 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 873 93 46, www.szpital-szwajcarska.poznan.pl.

POST OFFICES POCZTA POLSKAQF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 77, tel. (+48) 61 869 74 08, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. POCZTA POLSKAQD‑9, ul. Głogowska 17, tel. (+48) 61 869 72 67, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.

Currency exchange offices (‘Kantor’) are easy to find in Poznań, but as with any international destination, it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never change your money at city entry points, particularly at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve vetted them for you and assembled a list of well-located exchange offices that won’t rip you off or take a commission.

KLINIKA GRUNWALDZKAQul. Grunwaldzka 324, tel. (+48) 61 867 99 01, www.klinikagrunwaldzka.pl.

Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

KANTOR CORNERQB‑11, ul. Głogowska 79, tel. (+48) 61 866 01 19, www.kantorcorner.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

RELIGIOUS SERVICES

KANTOR GOLDQH‑8, Pl. Wiosny Ludów 2 (Kupiec Poznański), tel. (+48) 61 850 89 51, www.kantorgold.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 20:30, Sun 11:00 - 18:30.

KANTOR PRZEMEKSQG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 859 64 66, www. kantorprzemeks.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

KANTOR PRZEMEKSQE‑9, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2 (Poznań City Center/Main Train Station), tel. (+48) 667 31 31 31, www.kantorprzemeks.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

84 Poznań In Your Pocket

PRIVATE CLINICS

LUXMEDQE‑7, ul. Roosevelta 18, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88, www.luxmed.pl. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

MUSLIM CULTURE & RECREATION CENTRE Services take place Fridays at 12:30.Qul. Biedrzyckiego 13 (Łazarz), tel. (+48) 61 864 10 48, islam.poznan.pl.

POZNAŃ INTERNATIONAL CHURCH Poznań International Church is a non-denominational Christian church that meets every Sunday morning at 11:00 on the 1st floor of the Sheraton Hotel. Includes the Word of God Sunday school for children (and wonderful childcare for smaller children) as well as coffee and tea after the service.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. (+48) 791 99 04 94, www.international.pl.

/polandinyourpocket iyp.me/poznan

Hotels

Sleep in Hostel & Apartments

Visitors to Poznań will be pleasantly surprised to find that the city is home to some of the most impressive hotel properties in the country. While Poznań’s role as Poland’s epicentre for conferences and fairs has clearly benefited those who like plush accommodations and modern conveniences to come standard, on the flip side those major conferences can cause prices to shoot up when space is in demand (rates tend to double during the annual MTP, Polagra, Budma and Infosystem fairs). Fortunately most hotels compensate by offering impressive weekend discounts to encourage travellers to stick around and explore the city. With the increasing irrelevance of official rack rates these days due to these special offers, online booking discounts and other price variations, we no longer find it particularly instructive to list room prices in our guide, as we once did.

On our website - iyp.me/poznan - you’ll find full reviews, photos and reader comments, on all of the hostels and hotels listed in our print guide, plus dozens of other accommodation options in the region; unfortunately, space constraints no longer allow us to print these reviews.

Accommodation is categorised here subjectively based on a combination of lodging type, location, price and amenities. The venues listed here also serve as distribution points for our print guide, which can be picked up for free at the reception desks of the addresses listed. Sleep well. iyp.me/polandblog

CREAM OF THE CROP BLOW UP HALL 5050 QG‑9, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 500 16 16 74, www. blowuphall5050.com. 22 rooms (22 singles, 18 doubles).

P­H­U­K­D hhhhh CITY PARK HOTEL & RESIDENCE QA‑9, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26A, tel. (+48) 61 221 84 00, www.cityparkhotel.pl. 88 rooms (88 apartments).

P­H­6­F­K­D­C­W hhhhh IBB ANDERSIA HOTEL QG‑9, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. (+48) 61 667 80 00, www. andersiahotel.pl. 171 rooms (144 singles, 144 doubles, 27 apartments). P­Y­H­6­U­F­L­K­D­C­w hhhh NH POZNAŃ QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 67, tel. (+48) 61 624 88 00, www. nh-hotels.com. 93 rooms (93 singles, 93 doubles).

P­Y­H­6­U­F­L­K­D­w hhhh SHERATON POZNAN HOTEL QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan. 180 rooms (167 singles, 167 doubles, 13 apartments). P­H­6­U­F­L­K­ D­C hhhhh November 2017 - February 2018

85

Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning H Conference facilities T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking on site

K Restaurant

w Wellness

D Sauna

X Smoking rooms available

6 Animal friendly

C Swimming pool

UPMARKET BROVARIA QH‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74, tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www. brovaria.pl. 21 rooms (3 singles, 17 doubles, 1 studio).

P­H­K hhh DON PRESTIGE QH‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 2, tel. (+48) 61 859 05 90, www. donprestige.com. 73 rooms (52 singles, 47 doubles, 20 suites). P­Y­H­6­F­L HOTEL KOLEGIACKI QI‑7, Pl. Kolegiacki 5, tel. (+48) 61 855 05 05, www. hotelkolegiacki.pl. 24 rooms (24 singles, 21 doubles).

P­Y­H­U­F­K hhhh HOTEL MODERNO QC‑12, ul. Kolejowa 29, tel. (+48) 61 664 66 66, www. hotelmoderno.pl. 88 rooms (84 doubles, 3 suites, 1 apartment). P­H­L­K hhhh HOTEL REGATTA Qul. Chojnicka 49 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 502 78 78 10, www.regattahotel.pl. 23 rooms (22 singles, 22 doubles, 22 triples, 1 apartment). H­U­F­K­D­C­w hhhh HOTEL SOLEI GOLF Qul. Wałecka 2 (Strzeszyn), tel. (+48) 61 847 58 38, www.hotel-solei.pl. 23 rooms (6 singles, 16 doubles, 1 apartment). H­6­L­K­D hhhh HP PARKQP‑9, ul. Baraniaka 77, tel. (+48) 61 874 11 00, www.hotelepark.pl. 97 rooms (95 singles, 95 doubles, 1 suite, 1 apartment). P­Y­H­6U ­ ­K­W hhh MAT’S Qul. Bułgarska 115 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 868 78 31, www.hotelmats.pl. 35 rooms (3 singles, 21 doubles, 9 suites, 2 apartments). H­6­U­KD ­ hhh

Full contents online: poznan.inyourpocket.com 86 Poznań In Your Pocket

MERCURE POZNAŃ CENTRUM QD‑7, ul. Roosevelta 20, tel. (+48) 61 855 80 00, www. mercure-poznan-centrum.com. 228 rooms (227 singles, 187 doubles, 1 apartment). P­YH ­ ­6­U­F­L­ K­D hhhh NOVOTEL POZNAŃ CENTRUM QG‑9, Pl. Andersa 1, tel. (+48) 61 858 70 00, www. accorhotels.com. 480 rooms (160 singles, 310 doubles, 10 apartments). P­Y­H­6­U­F­L­K hhhh NOVOTEL POZNAŃ MALTA QP‑7, ul. Termalna 5, tel. (+48) 61 654 31 00, www. accorhotels.com. 149 rooms (149 singles, 149 doubles).

Y­H­6­U­F­L­K hhh PLATINUM PALACE RESIDENCE Qul. Reymonta 19 (entrance from ul. Wyspiańskiego) (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 882 39 40, www. platinumpalace.pl. 14 rooms (14 singles, 13 doubles).

P­H­6­K hhhh PURO HOTEL POZNAŃ QI‑6, ul. Stawna 12, tel. (+48) 61 333 10 00, www. purohotel.pl. 136 rooms (134 singles, 134 doubles, 2 suites). P­Y­H­6­U­F­K­D hhhh ROYAL QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 71, tel. (+48) 61 858 23 00, www. hotel-royal.com.pl. 35 rooms (12 singles, 22 doubles, 1 suite). H­L­W hhh VIVALDI QG‑2, ul. Winogrady 9, tel. (+48) 61 858 81 00, www.vivaldi.pl. 44 rooms (22 singles, 21 doubles, 1 apartment). P­H­6­K­D­w hhhh

MID-RANGE CAMPANILE Qul. Św. Wawrzyńca 96, tel. (+48) 61 845 66 00, www. campanile.com. 80 rooms (76 singles, 76 doubles, 4 apartments). P­H­6­U­K hh GARDEN BOUTIQUE RESIDENCE QI‑7, ul. Wroniecka 24, tel. (+48) 61 222 29 99, www. gardenhotel.pl. 17 rooms (11 singles, 11 doubles, 3 triples, 3 apartments). P­L­K HOTEL 222 Qul. Grunwaldzka 222, tel. (+48) 61 899 32 63, www. hotel-222.pl. 51 rooms (51 singles, 51 doubles). H­L hh HOTEL FORZA Qul. Dworska 1 (Naramowice), tel. (+48) 61 821 36 67, www.hotelforza.pl. 24 rooms (24 singles, 24 doubles).

P­H­L­K hhh iyp.me/poznan

Hotels HOTEL KOREL Qul. 28 Czerwca 1956 r. 209 (Wilda), tel. (+48) 61 222 84 00, www.hotelkorel.pl. 41 rooms (34 singles, 13 doubles, 4 suites, 3 apartments). P­H­K hhh HOTEL KSIĘCIA JÓZEFA Qul. Ostrowska 391/393 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 872 63 19, www.hotelkj.pl. 35 rooms (15 singles, 19 doubles, 1 apartment). P­HK ­ hhh HOTEL POZNAŃSKI Qul. Krańcowa 4, Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 649 99 88, www. hotelpoznanski.pl. 107 rooms (100 singles, 100 doubles, 7 suites). H­U­LK ­ hhh HOTEL ŚRÓDKA QL‑6, ul. Śródka 6, tel. (+48) 61 222 00 07, www. hotelsrodka.pl. 25 rooms (7 singles, 6 doubles, 1 triple, 4 suites, 7 apartments). H­U­L hhh HOTEL SYSTEM POZNAŃ Qul. Lechicka 101 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 821 07 00, www.system-hotels.pl/poznan. 107 rooms (42 singles, 58 doubles, 7 apartments). P­H­6­K­D­C hhh IBIS QJ‑9, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 23, tel. (+48) 61 858 44 00, www.accorhotels.com. 146 rooms (146 singles, 146 doubles). P­H­6­U­L­K hh IKAR QG‑5, ul. Solna 18, tel. (+48) 61 658 71 05, www. hotelewam.pl. 145 rooms (57 singles, 80 doubles, 8 suites). P­H­6U ­ ­L­K hhh LECH QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 74, tel. (+48) 61 853 01 51, www. hotel-lech.poznan.pl. 77 rooms (77 singles, 43 doubles, 4 triples). H hh REZYDENCJA SOLEI B&B QI‑7, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 510 11 01 30, www.hotelsolei.pl. 10 rooms (9 singles, 9 doubles, 1 apartment). P RZYMSKI QH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22, tel. (+48) 61 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski.pl. 87 rooms (28 singles, 53 doubles, 1 suite, 5 apartments). H­6­UL ­ ­K hhh STARE MIASTO QH‑8, ul. Rybaki 36, tel. (+48) 61 659 00 43, www. hotelstaremiasto.pl. 23 rooms (3 singles, 18 doubles, 1 suite, 1 apartment). P­H­L hhh TOPAZ QF‑10, ul. Przemysłowa 34A, tel. (+48) 61 833 76 00, www.hotel-topaz.pl. 48 rooms (9 singles, 36 doubles, 2 triples, 1 suite). H­6­U­K hhh iyp.me/polandblog

PĄCZKI A tradition since the 1700s, the pączek (plural: pączki) is Poland’s national doughnut, and so popular that it even has its own holiday – Tłusty Czwartek (Fat Thursday) – which falls on the last Thursday before the start of Lent (February 8th, 2018). With Lent forbidding sweets and treats, Fat Thursday is a similar celebration of gluttonous indulgence as in other countries, but with the date bungled, and instead of parading and partying the Poles queue up in lines that sometimes stretch around the corner in order to purchase dozens of doughnuts from the local cukiernia, or bakery.

Dense, deep-fried dough balls typically filled with rose jam, glazed with sugar, and topped with candied orange peel, pączki are similar to American jelly doughnuts, the main difference being that instead of squirting jelly all over your lap, Poland’s conservative tendencies ensure there is only a drop of marmalade in the centre somewhere, which an elaborate game could be made around trying to find.

November 2017 - February 2018

87

Hotels BUDGET GOLDQul. Bukowska 127A (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 842 07 74, www.goldhotel.pl. 12 rooms (11 singles, 11 doubles, 1 apartment). H­6 hh HOTEL RAMKAQul. Dąbrowskiego 474 (entrance from ul. Wejherowska 10, Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 849 94 99, www.hotelramka.pl. 26 rooms (24 singles, 24 doubles, 2 suites). P­H­LK ­ hhh

OUT OF TOWN GREEN HOTEL Qul. Jeziorna 1A, Komorniki, tel. (+48) 61 810 80 75, www.greenhotel.pl. 44 rooms (40 singles, 36 doubles, 4 apartments). P­H­6­U­L­K­D hhh

APARTMENTS APARTAMENTY VELVET QC‑9, ul. Śniadeckich 7, tel. (+48) 606 88 88 00, www. evelvet.pl. 16 rooms (16 apartments).

CAPITAL APARTMENTS QH‑8, ul. Piekary 16, tel. (+48) 61 852 53 00, www. capitalapart.pl. 29 rooms (29 apartments). 6

POZNAŃ IYP ONLINE Due to space restrictions in our print guide, we’re actually only able to publish a fraction of all the excellent content we have on Poznań. Below is a sampling of articles that didn’t make this issue’s cut, with links to where you’ll find them online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket!

NAPOLEON’S POZNAŃ As it turns out, Napoleon once spent three weeks in Poznań between campaigns against the Prussians and Russians, a very happy period of time for the locals, who viewed him as a liberating hero. Read more about his stay here: iyp.me/napoleon POZNAŃ’S FORTS Poznań was once a heavily fortified city, as evidenced by the 18 early-19th century forts that surround the centre. While today most are completely abandoned, some are open to the public in various forms, and make an interesting form of alternative sightseeing. To that end we detail each of the 18 and tell you how to find them: iyp.me/poznanforts 88 Poznań In Your Pocket

CLASSICO APARTMENTSQD‑6, ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. (+48) 728 41 48 27, www.classico-apartamenty.com.

25 rooms (25 apartments). 6 PLATINUM PALACE APARTMENTS QG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 671 05 66, www.apartamenty.platinumpalace.pl. 27 rooms (27 apartments). 6 POMARAŃCZARNIA QH‑9, ul. Rybaki 12, tel. (+48) 515 37 73 20, www.apartamenty-pomaranczarnia.pl. 44 rooms (44 apartments). 6

HOSTELS EXPLORER HOSTEL QI‑8, ul. Wszystkich Świętych 6, tel. (+48) 600 96 55 55, www.explorer-hostel.pl. 22 rooms (22 singles, 12 doubles, 6 triples, 3 quads). L­K FUSION HOSTELQF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 66/72, tel. (+48) 61 852 12 30. 17 rooms (3 doubles, 1 triple, 3 quads, 1 five-person room, 8 six-person room, 1 seven-person room, 80 dorm beds). Y­U LA GUITARRAQG‑7, ul. Marcinkowskiego 20A, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 74, www.lagitarra.com/poznan.

16 rooms (6 singles, 6 doubles, 8 quads, 1 eight-person room, 60 dorm beds). 6 MELODY HOSTELQH‑7, Stary Rynek 67 (entrance from ul. Kozia 16), tel. (+48) 61 851 60 60, www.melodyhostel.pl. 16 rooms (2 singles, 10 doubles, 1 quad, 16 dorm beds, 1 six-person room).

POCO LOCO HOSTELQG‑8, ul. Taczaka 23, tel. (+48) 796 23 05 55, www.hostel.poco-loco.pl. 9 rooms (2 doubles, 46 dorm beds). 6 ROSEMARY’S HOSTEL QI‑7, ul. Wrocławska 13, tel. (+48) 61 855 27 61.

12 rooms (12 singles, 11 doubles, 1 triple). T SLEEP IN HOSTEL & APARTMENTS QH‑7, Stary Rynek 77, tel. (+48) 61 639 40 04, www. sleepinhostel.pl. 27 rooms (20 singles, 20 doubles, 7 apartments). 6 SODA HOSTEL & APARTMENTS QD‑6, ul. gen. Jana Henryka Dąbrowskiego 27A, tel. (+48) 793 27 27 20, www.sodahostel.com. 22 rooms (6 singles, 5 doubles, 3 quads, 8 suites, 52 dorm beds).

P VERY BERRY HOSTEL QH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 11/17, tel. (+48) 61 855 17 63. 24 rooms (6 singles, 10 doubles, 5 triples, 4 quads, 60 dorm beds). 6 iyp.me/poznan

Street Register 1KDD (Bulwar Nadwarciański) L-7/8 23 Lutego G-6; H-6/7 27 Grudnia G-7 28 Czerwca 1956 roku F-11/12 3 Maja G-7 Al. Armii “Poznań” F-2/3; G/J-4; G-3 Al. Króla Przemysła II E-9 Al. Marcinkowskiego H-6/8 Al. Niepodległości

E-7; F-5/9; G-4/5/9; H-4/5 Al. Pod Lipami K-1 Al. Radziejewskiego P-11/12 Al. Wielkopolska D/F-4; D-3; E-3; F-5 Anonima A-5; B-5 Asnyka C-6 Baraniaka L/N-8; M/P-9; P-10 Barzyńskiego E-5 Bastionowa G-2; H-2 Bałtycka N/P-1 Berdychowo L-8 Bergera E-11; F-11 Bernata M-3/5; N-3 Berwińskiego B-10; C-10 Biała A-8 Bielniki I-11 Blacharska N-3; O-3 Bnińska O-5/7 Bociania B-3 Bogusławskiego A-10/12; B-10 Brandstaettera I-1/2 Brneńska L/N-11 Bukowska A/E-7; D-8; E-8 Bydgoska L-6; M-5/6 Bóżnicza I-6 Calliera C-11 Cegielskiego I-9; J-9 Chemiczna O-1 Chełmińska E-2 Chełmońskiego B-9/10 Chlebowa M-5; N-4/5 Chociszewskiego A-12 Chopina F-5/6 Chwaliszewo I-7; J-6/7 Chwiałkowskiego E/H-11 Chłodna B-11 Ciasna J-7 Cicha F-4; G-4/5 Czajcza F-12; G-12 Czapla L-1 Czarnieckiego E-11/12; F-12 Czartoria J-7; K-7 Dmowskiego B-11/12 Dojazd B-1 Dolina G-11/12 Dolna Wilda G-10/12 Dolska L/N-12; M-11 Dominikańska I-6/7 Dowbora-Muśnickiego I-8; J-8 Dożynkowa G-1/2 Droga Dębińska H-11/12; I-10/11 Drużbackiej B-10 Drzymały D-3; E-3 Dworcowa D-8/9; E-7/9 Dworkowa E-4/5 Dybowskiego G-1 Działowa H-5/6 Działyńskich G-6 Dziekańska L-6 Dąbrowskiego A/C-5; C/E-6 Długa H-8; I-8 Długosza A-5/6 Estkowskiego I/K-6 Ewangelicka I-7; J-7/8; K-8 Filipińska L-6; M-6 Franciszkańska H-7 Fredry E-6; F-6/7 Gajowa D-7 Garbary I-6/9; J-4/6 Garczyńskiego E-12 Garncarska F-7/8 Gdańska L-6; M-6 Gen. Kutrzeby H-4/5; I-5 Gen. Maczka D/F-2 Gen. Pułaskiego E-5; F-3/5; G-3 Gorczyczewskiego A-6/7 Gołębia H-7; I-7 Graniczna C-10/11 Grobla I-7; J-7/9 Grochowe Łąki I-6; J-6 Gromadzka I-1 Gronowa I-1 Grottgera A-9; B-9 Grudzieniec A-3; B/E-4; B-3; E-5; F-5

iyp.me/polandblog

Grunwaldzka A/C-8; A-9; C-7; D-7 Gwarna F-7 Góra Przemysła H-7 Góralska B-1; C-1 Górna Wilda F-11; G-9/11 Gąsiorowskich C-10; D-10 Głogowska

A-12; B-10/12; C-9/10; D-8/9 Główna N/P-3; N-4; O-4 Głęboka G-10 Harcerska O-3; P-3 Hejmowskiego G-5/6; H-5/6 Heliodora Święcickiego C-7/8 Hetmańska A-12 Hlonda M-4/5; N-2/4; O-1/2 Inflancka O-12; P-10/12 Iłłakowiczówny A-9 Jackowskiego A/C-6 Jana Pawła II L-7/11; M-6/9 Janickiego A-4/5; B-3/4 Jantar M-11 Jarochowskiego A-10/12; B-10 Jaskółcza H-8 Jeżycka C-4; D-4/5; E-5 Jordana H-12; I-12 Juracka K-10/11 Jęczmienna G-1/2 Kadłubka A-5/6 Kajki A-4 Kaliska L-9/10; M-8/9 Kanałowa C-10 Kantaka G-7 Karmelicka H-9/10 Karwowskiego C-12 Kasprzaka A-11/12; B-11 Kassyusza A-5/6 Kaszubska B-2 Katowicka N-9/11; O-11 Kilińskiego F-12 Klasztorna I-7 Klin E-4 Klonowica B-10 Kmieca J-1 Kochanowskiego D-5/7 Kolejowa C-10/12; D-10 Konarskiego M-6; N-5/6 Konopnickiej B-8; C-8 Kopernika H-9; I-9 Koralowa O-6/7 Koronkarska M/O-4; N-5 Kossaka B-9/10 Kotlarska N-3; O-3 Kozia H-7; I-7 Kościelna C-4/6; D-4 Kościuszki F-5/9; G-5/9; H-9 Krakowska H-9; I-9 Kramarska H-7; I-7 Krasińskiego D-6; E-6 Kraszewskiego C-6/7 Krańcowa P-3/5 Krysiewicza H-8 Krzywoustego

J-10; K/M-11; K-10; M-12; N-12 Krzyżowa F-12; G-12 Królowej Jadwigi F/H-9; H/J-10 Krótka O-3; P-3 ks. Józefa H-5; I-5 ks. Mieszka I F-1/4 ks. Posadzego K-6; L-6 ks. Wujka E-9; F-9/10 Ku Cytadeli I-4/5 Kujawska C-2 Kulasa G-5 Kurpiowska E-4 Kwiatowa H-9 Kórnicka K-9; L-9/10; M-10 Kącik C-11 Lazurowa C-1 Lechicka N-1; O-1 Libelta E/G-6; E-5 Limanowskiego A-10; B-10/11 Lindego A-4 Litewska C-3; D-3 Lodowa B-11/12 Lubrańskiego K-5/6 Ludgardy H-7 Lwowska N-9 Magazynowa E-10; F-9/10 Maltańska M-9; N-9 Mansfelda D-5 Marcelińska A-8; B-8 Mariacka O-2/3; P-2 Masztalarska H-6/7; I-6

Matejki B-8/11 Matyi E-8/9; F-9 Mazowiecka B/D-2 Małachowskiego M-5/6; N-5 Małe Garbary H-6; I-6 Małeckiego B-11; C-10/11 Małopolska B-2; C-2/3; D-3 Michałowska E-1/2 Mickiewicza D-6/7; E-5/6 Mielżyńskiego F-7; G-7 Mieszkowska M-12 Milczańska N-10/12; O-12 Miłosławska O-6; P-6/7 Mokra I-6 Morawskiego A-11; B-11 Mostowa I-7/8; J-7/9 Mottego C-11 Murawa I-1 Murna H-7 Mylna D-4/5 Mączna D-4/5 Młyńska G-6 Na Miasteczku K-10; L-10 Na Podgórniku H-4/5; I-5 Na Stoku J-3/4 Nad Bogdanką D-4 Nad Potokiem D-1/2 Nad Seganką A-3/4; B-4 Nad Wierzbakiem D-2/4 Nadbrzeże K-2; L-2 Nadolnik P-2/3 Naramowicka K-1 Nehringa A-12 Niecała A-8 Niedziałkowskiego F-10; G-10 Niegolewskich A-10/11; B-11 Niemena M-10/11 Niestachowska A-2/3; B-1/2 Niezłomnych F-9; G-9 Niska E-4/5 Norwida D-4/5; E-5 Noskowskiego E-5/6; F-5/6 Nowe Zagórze K-7 Nowowiejskiego F-5/6; G-6/7 Obrzyca J/L-12; J-11 Ogrodowa G-8; H-8 Orzeszkowej B-9; C-9 Ostrów Tumski K-6; L-6 Ostrówek L-6 Owsiana F-1/2; G-2 Ozimina G-1/2 Paderewskiego H-7 Panny Marii J-5; K-5/6 Parkowa B-9; C-9 Pasaż Apollo G-8 Pasaż Różowy F-8 Pasieka H-1 Pałucka D-4; E-4 Piaskowa I-6; J-5/6 Piastowska I-10/12 Piaśnicka P-12 Piekary G-8; H-8 Piotrowo K-9; L-8/9 Piątkowska E-1; F-1/2 Piłsudskiego K/M-12; K-11; L-11 Pl. Asnyka C-6 Pl. Kolegiacki I-7 Pl. Orawski B-2; C-2 Pl. Ratajskiego G-6/7 Pl. Spiski C-3; D-3 Pl. Wielkopolski H-6 Pl. Wiosny Ludów H-8 Pl. Wolności G-7; H-7 Pleszewska L-10/11; M-11 Podgórna H-7/8; I-8 Podgórze H-6 Podhalańska C-2 Podlaska B-1/2; C-1 Podolska C-2; D-2/3 Podwale M-5/6 Polanka L-9; M-9/10; N-10 Polna A-6/8; B-5/6 Pomorska B-2 Poplińskich F-10; G-10/11 Potockiej A/C-12 Potworowskiego A-12 Powstańcza F-12; G-12 Powstańców Wielkopolskich E/G-8 Poznańska C/E-5 Prusa C-6 Prużańska P-10 Przemysłowa F-9/12 Przepadek F/H-4; G-3

Przełajowa K-1/2 Przy Dolinie G-11 Przybyszewskiego A-5 Prądzyńskiego E-12; F-12 Pszczelna H-1 Pszenna G-2 Północna I-5; J-5 Półwiejska G-9; H-8/9 Ratajczaka G-7/9 Reja D-6 Robocza D-12; E-11/12; F-10/11 Rodziewiczówny A-3/4 Rokietnicka A-7 Rondo Kaponiera D-7; E-7 Rondo Rataje L-11 Rondo Szczęśliwej Podróży E-9 Rondo Śródka M-6 Roosevelta D-7/8; E-5/8 Rybaki H-8/9; I-8 Rynek Wildecki F-11 Rynek Łazarski B-11; C-11 Rynek Śródecki L-6 Rynkowa H-7 Rzeczna P-2 Różana G-10/11 Sadowa H-1; I-1 Sczanieckiej A-11; B-11 Serafitek K-9/10 Siemiradzkiego B-9/10 Sienkiewicza C-6; D-6/7 Sieroca H-7 Sikorskiego E-12; F-12 Skromna P-1/2 Skryta B-8 Składowa E-8; F-8 Smolna N-2; O-2/3 Sochaczewska E-2 Sokoła D-2; E-1/2 Solna F-5; G-5/6; H-6 Sowia M-9/10 Sołtysia I-1; J-1 Spadzista G-10 Spichrzowa D-10; E-9/10 Sporna F-5; G-5 Stablewskiego A/C-12; A-11 Starowiejska F-1; G-1 Staszica B-5/6 Stawna I-6 Strusia C-10/11 Strzałkowskiego C-6; D-5/6 Strzałowa H-8/9; I-8 Strzelecka H-8; I-8/10 Studniarskiego P-3 Studzienna N-3/4; O-3 Szamarzewskiego A/C-6 Szczepanowskiego B-3/4 Szelągowska J-3/4; K-1/3 Szewska I-6/7 Szkolna H-7/8 Szydłowska C/E-1 Szylinga B-7/8; C-7 Szymańskiego H-8 Szyperska I-7; J-5/7 Słonimska P-10 Słowackiego B/E-6; E-7 Słowiańska E/G-1; J-1; K-1 Taczaka F-8; G-8 Taylora F-8 Teatralny E-6 Termalna N/P-7; P-8 Tomickiego N-5/7 Topolowa F-9/10; G-10 Towarowa E-7/9 Tylne Chwaliszewo J-7 Ugory K-1; L-1 Umińskiego E-12 Uniwersytecki E-7 Urbanowska D-2; E-2/3; F-3 Ułańska A-8/9; B-9/10 Warczygłowy L-10; M-10 Warmińska A-1/2; B-2 Warszawska M/P-7; M-6; N-6; P-6 Warzywna H-1/2 Wawrzyniaka B-5/7 Wenecjańska J-6/7 Weteranów K-10; L-10 Wiankowa P-10 Wiatraczna O-12 Widna D-1 Wiece D-1/2 Wiejska P-3 Wielka I-7 Wielkiego I-9; J-9

Wieniawskiego E-6/7; F-6 Wierzbięcice F-9/12 Wierzbowa J-8 Wieżowa K-6/7; L-7 Wilczak K-1; L-1 Wilkońskich A-4/5 Winiarska D-1 Winna H-1/2 Winogrady G-2/3; H/J-1; H-2; J-2; K-2 Wioślarska J-11; K-11 Witosa B-1; C-1 Wodna I-7 Wojska Polskiego A/C-1; C-2; D-2 Wojskowa A-8/10 Wolne Tory E-9 Wolnica G/I-6 Wołkowyska O-9/10; P-10/11 Wołyńska C-1/2; D-1 Woźna I-7 Wrocławska H-7/8; I-7 Wroniecka I-6/7 Wschodnia P-3/4 Wszystkich Świętych I-8; J-8 Wybickiego E-12; F-12 Wysoka G-8; H-8 Wyspiańskiego A/C-10; A-9 Wyszyńskiego K/M-6 Wyzwolenia L-12 Wyżyny G/I-1 Wójtowska I-1; J-1 Wąska C-5 Za Bramką I-7/8 Za Cytadelą G/J-2; G-3; J-1 Za Groblą J-8; K-8 Zabrzańska M-9; N-9 Zachodnia D-9 Zacisze E-5/6 Zagonowa G-1/2; H-2 Zagrodnicza J-1/2 Zagórze K-7; L-6/7 Zakątek A-8 Zamenhofa K-11/12; L-11 Zamkowa H-7 Zaniemyska O-5/6 zaułek Ślepego Antka K-7 Zawady M-4/5; N-3/4 Załęże A-12; B-12 Zbożowa F-1; G-1/2 Zdrojowa O-6 Zeylanda D-7 Zielona I-8 Ziętary B-8 Zjazd D-1 Zwierzyniecka C/E-7 Łacina L-10 Łady E-4 Łaskarza N-6 Łazienna J-7 Łucznicza K-10 Łukaszewicza C-11/12 Łąkowa H-9; I-9 Ślusarska I-7 Śląska D-2/3 Śniadeckich C-7/10 Śpiewaków C-1; D-1/2 Średnia O-3; P-2/3 Średzka N-6; O-5/6 Śremska M-12; N-12 Śródka L-6 Św. Barbary G-5 Św. Czesława F-10; G-10 Św. Floriana C-5 Św. Jacka L-6 Św. Jerzego F-12; G-12 Św. Marcin E/G-7; G-8; H-8 Św. Marii Magdaleny I-9; J-8/9 Św. Michała N-5/7; O-3/5 Św. Rocha K-9/10; L-10 Św. Wawrzyńca A-3; B-3/4; C-4 Św. Wincentego L-5; M-5 Św. Wojciech H-5/6; I-6 Święciańska P-10 Świętojańska M-7; N-7 Świętosławska I-7 Źródlana D-1/2 Żelazka G-12; H-12 Żeromskiego A-3/5 Żmudzka D-3/4 Żniwna G-2; H-2 Żupańskiego F-11; G-10/11 Żurawia C-5/6 Żydowska I-6/7

November 2017 - February 2018

89

Index 3 Kolory 31 239 27 1956 Uprising Museum 61 Antykwariat 80 Antykwariat Naukowy 80 Apartamenty Velvet 88 Applied Arts Museum 61 Archaeological Museum 61 Archdiocese Museum 61, 68 Arsenał City Gallery 58 Avenida Poznań 82 Bagels & Friends 27 Bamber Monument 59 Bar a Boo 36 Bar Susznia 47 Basilium 47, 78 Bazar 1838 39 Bierhalle 31 Blow Up Hall 5050 31, 85 Blubry6D 74 Blue Note Jazz Club 50 Bogdanka 74 Bo.Poznan 32 Brewery Tours & Pub Lech Browary Wielkopolski 64 British Military Cemetery 70 Brovaria 32, 47, 86 Budnicy Houses 57 Cafe Gołębnik 26 Cafe La Ruina 26 Cafe Stragan 26 Campanile 86 Capital Apartments 88 Casa de Vinos 48 Centrum Relaksu Vasco da Gaia 75 Cepelia 80

Chłopskie Jadło 39 CHMIELNIK 48 Chocolate Museum 62 Church of the Virgin Mary 68 City Event Poznań 59 City Guide Poznań 59 City Information Centre 59 City Park Hotel & Residence 85 Classico Apartments 88 Cocorico 26 Concordia Taste 32 Corner Pub / Colloquium Club 50 Cuba Libre 52 Czekolada 50 Dąbrowskiego 42 32 Dalineum 62 Dark Restaurant 35 Dobra i Wino 48 Don Prestige 86 Drukarnia Skład Wina & Chleba Poznań 30 Dynx 39 Empik 80 Explorer Hostel 88 Falla 44 Figaro 36 Flavoria 33 Franciscan Church 60 Fusion Hostel 88 Fusion Restaurant 30 Galeria Malta 82 Galeria MM 82 Galeria YES 78 Garden Boutique Residence 86 GearUP! 74 Genius Loci Archeological Park

Old and new at Poznań’s Stary Browar (p.82).

90 Poznań In Your Pocket

68 GOKO Restauracja Japońska 37 Gold 88 Green Hotel 88 Gringo Bar 39 HAH Poznań 52 Hala Arena 10 Handmade 80 Harmonia SPA 75 Havana Club Poznań 42, 52 Headless Figures 70 Historical Museum of Poznań 57 Hola Hola 48 Hotel 222 86 Hotel ForZa 86 Hotel Kolegiacki 86 Hotel Korel 87 Hotel Księcia Józefa 87 Hotel Moderno 86 Hotel Poznański 87 Hotel Ramka 88 Hotel Regatta 86 Hotel Solei Golf 86 Hotel Śródka 87 Hotel System Poznań 87 HP Park 86 IBB Andersia Hotel 85 Ibis 87 Ikar 87 INEA Stadium 63 Jewish Cemetery 8, 73 Jeżyce Market 79 John of Nepomuk Monument 58 KRAFT 33 Kriek Belgian Pub & Cafe 48

Volgar on flickr.com CC BY SA 2.0

Kuchnia Wandy 40 KURO by Panamo 37 Kyokai Sushi Bar 42 La Guitarra 88 Lars, Lars & Lars 41 Lavenda Gastro & Cafe 33 Lech 87 Leprosarium of St. Lazarus 7 Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus 60 Lilou 79 Literary Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz 62 Ludwiku do Rondla 38 Malta Skating Rink 76 Malta Ski 76 Malta Ski Equipment Rental 77 Maltese Baths 77 Mat's 86 Melody Hostel 88 Mercure Poznań Centrum 86 Miejscówka 48 Milano Ristorante 36 Ministerstwo Browaru 48 MK Bowling 74 Models of Poznań 62 Mollini 36 Monument to the Heroes of the Poznan Citadel 70 Municipal Scales Building 59 Museum of Armaments 63, 70 National Museum 63 Na Winklu 40 New Synagogue 73 NH Poznań 85 Novotel Poznań Centrum 86 Novotel Poznań Malta 86 Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem 40 Od:zysk 58 Old Town Hall 56 Oskoma 40 Pacha 52 Palm House 9 Perseus Freeing Andromeda 9 PETIT PARIS Boulangerie 26, 27 Pharmacy Museum 63 PHOBAR 29 Piano Bar Restaurant & Cafe

37, 49 Pies Andaluzyjski 50 Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 49 Platinum Palace Apartments 88 Platinum Palace Residence 86 Poco Loco Hostel 88 Pod Niebieniem 40 Pod Pręgierzem 33 Pomarańczarnia 88

iyp.me/poznan

Index Pony Poznań 75 Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre of Cathedral Island 66 Posnania 82 Poznań Army Museum 64, 71 Poznań Bamber Museum 64 Poznań Cathedral 67 Poznań Congress Center 7 Pranger 57 Produkty Benedyktyńskie 80 Projekt Iwona Rychlewicz 80 Projekt Kuchnia 27, 34 Projekt LAB 52 Projekt Wilson 26 Ptasie Radio 27 PURO Hotel Poznań 86 Raj 29 Ramen-Ya 37 Ratuszova 40 Restauracja Bamberka 40 Restauracja Momo 41 Restauracja MUGA 34 Restauracja Patio Provence 34 Restauracja Słoń Seafood & More 41 Rezydencja Solei B&B 87 Rosemary's Hostel 88 Royal 86 Różove 27 Rynek Łazarski 10 Rzymski 87 Salon Posnania 82 Sheraton Poznan Hotel 85 Shivaz 30 Sleep In Hostel & Apartments 88 Słodkie Czary Mary 80 Słodownia Browar Pub 49 Soda Hostel & Apartments 88 Sołtysówka 8 SomePlace Else 29, 50 SPOT. 34 SQ 52 Squad Whisky 42 St. Adalbert's Church 60 St. Anna's Church 10 Stare Miasto 87 Stary Browar 82 St. John of Jerusalem Church Outside the Wall 77 Świat Bursztynu 79

Taj India 30 Thai Fast Wok 42 Thai-Land Massage 75 Thai Smile Massage 75 Thai Thai 42 The Bell of Peace and Friendship Among Nations 71 The Imperial Castle 61 The New Zoo 77 The Old Zoo 75 The Royal Castle 60 The Time 35 Topaz 87 Tourist Information Centre 59 TUTU 80 Ułan Browar 50 Un Pot 27 Vege Pizza 42 Very Berry Hostel 88 Vinylgate Recordstore 80 VisitPoznań 59 Vivaldi 86 Weranda Lunch & Wine 35 Whiskey in the Jar 50 Whisky Bar 88 50 Why Thai Food & Wine 42 Wiejskie Jadło 40 Wielkopolska Market 79 Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum 64 Wielkopolska Military Museum 58 Wielkopolska Uprising Museum 58 Wilson Park 9 Wino na Kieliszki 48 W. Kruk 79 Wspólny Stół 40 Wypas 44 Yetztu 38 Yeżyce Kuchnia 40 Zemsta Anarchist Bookshop & Club 27 Zen On 38 Zielona Weranda 35 Zindo Sushi Korean-Japanese Restaurant 38 źródło.bar 50

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App iyp.me/polandblog

Stoic statues and bird droppings - a European fact of life.

Maciej Latałło on flickr.com CC BY 2.0

FEATURES INDEX 1945 Battle of Poznań 71 Breakfast 27 Currency exchange 84 Decoding the Menu 32 Hot Beer?

44 Christmas in Poland 15 Krzysztof Komeda 9 Language Smarts 15 Łazarz 6 Live Music 50 Markets 79 Pączki 87 Poznań IYP online 84 Poznań Street Art 62 Poznań Tourist Card 13 Poznań Trade Fairs 8 Śródka 68 Stare Koszary 42 The Imperial Castle 61 The Piasts 19 The Royal Castle 60 Tipping Tribulations 37 Useful Transport Apps 14 November 2017 - February 2018

91

gra

O

EG SK I

ŁA

E

F

Wronie ck a

Sz k

olna

Wrocław ska

n k owskiego

Al. M arci

ys ie w icz

a

wa

Chwiałka

CityZen

B

Jorda

Św. Jerzego Krzyżo wa

Dług

Dolna Wilda Market

Dolna W ilda

Gó Róża rna Wilda n a

a

Rata jczak a

Towaro wa

a cz bo

wicza

Ro

Kolejow a

D

go ki e ors Kilińsk Sik iego

na

Drog a D ęb ińsk a

zki G war na

dnia

Zacho

Skła

SEVE LTA

D wor cowa

RO O

Śniadeckich

G Ł ieg o ck

M ał e

Łukasz e

Dm o

gó r

Str za ło w a

PU N. cius Ko ś

Al. N iepo d

l eg łoś

ci

go Nosk ow sk ie

Wienia ws kie

go

ROO SE V ELTA

wicz a

Mick ie

Reja

Gajowa

ga Matejki

SK A dow a Lo

GŁ OG OW

Czajcza

r

Pó łwi ejsk

Żm udz k

Myln a

ście lna

Ko Prus a

Asn

yk a

Stas zica Wawr z yn iaka

Szylin

go

usła wsk ie

Bo g

a

ak

wskiego

o ow skie g

Ma tej ki

C

Win o

bakie m

Śląs ka

Nad W ierz

a

iego

Jani ck Poln a

Polna

Źródlan a

Wie ce

Wo ły

O OMS K IE G

osza Dług

Jaro ch

o tteg Mo

i

Kozia Gołę b

a

Moderno

iego Żupańsk

Po d

Krakow s k a Królow ej Jadw igi

o skieg

awa Św. Czesł

iego ałkowsk Chwi

ra

śc ius zk

OLD TOWN

l ec k S trze

o

ow Niedziałk

D o lina

B

ci

wa zo wa no p zy S a ag M Topaz

zna

Ko

Park Drwęskich

k s . Wujka

ie Call

j

wsk ieg

nic

Gra

wa K Park Dąbrowskiego

łoś leg od

łęż e

Main Train Station

i

o

Za

Avenida Poznań

23 Lutego

Ogrodo

ep Ni Al.

Rynek Łazarski

Sta ble

ielkopolskic h wW ńcó sta w PoPark Karola Main Marcinkowskiego Mat Bus Station yi

POZNAŃ C

Woln ica

Pl. Wolno śc

Tacz aka

wa do

r ich

o

na No wo w i

eby

St. Adalbe

Sol

Św. M arcin

wa Przemysło

Ka sp rz

Fre dr y

St. Joseph's Sanctuary

u tr z

Działowa

el t a

kieg

go

go

G O

A SK W O

Cemetery of Distinguished Citizens sa of Wielkopolska Kula Ikar

c rnie

Po tw oro ws k ie

A

Lib

Ge n.

K

a orn

Cza

ws kie

ieg

ole ws ki c h

Sc z an iec k ie

kich

L im an ow sk

Nie g

c Śniade

zkiego Park

Galeria City Park Wysp iańsk iego

Sta ble

12

Wilson

d Siemira

Park Jana Kasprowicza

11

Skr y ta

City Park

INTERNATIONAL TRADE FAIR (MTP)

Konopnickiej

Palm House a Parkow

Kossaka

9

10

isze

iego

Orzeszkowej

Ułańska

Wojskowa

ŁAZARZ

ZKA LD

Cemetery

ry

8

WA UN GR

Pr ze pa de k

Museum of Armaments

Soviet

II "Cemetery PO ZN AŃ " British Military

a Piek

Marcelińska

AR M

fa ze Jó

The Old Zoo

Head

iego sk

SKA

Cita

k s.

o

Rose Garden

ą d el y ta

ej

e go

iego

BUKO W

Sp

Kras ińsk

Dąb row skie g

AL .

ina Chop

7

a id

Jackowsk

ka yc

6

GE

Poznańska

Słow ac k i

C

a

iec

No rw

Jeż

Szam arze wskie go

B ogdank

W iel ko po lsk a

Z ac

a ow

a ch Ci

Ż ER

a

Dąb row skie go

Ano nim a

n ze Ps

Gru d zi en

JEŻYCE

5

Al. ka

Za

I

ńc

KA

Pa łuc

on sti Ba

rady Winog

Garrison Cemetery

SZ

Park Wodziczki

c

Św .W aw rzy

Vivaldi

MI E

Litewska enie

a G e n. M Ur ban ows ka Drzymał y

KS.

Gr ud zi

ka cz

ec ka

Park Sołacki

ży Do

a ow nk

na iw Żn na

ols ka

ch ało w Ch ska eł m ińs ka

na

Po d

lsk a

Mi

sia

Ma łop o

Ma zo wi

3

4

go

Ow

2

Po lsk ie

ńsk a

450 m

NIES TACH OWS KA

300

yny

a Sadow

150

sk a

H Wy ż

ka Pasie

0

ow

G

a sk ań wi a S ł o ej s k i ow r a St

zelna Pszc na zyw War

Scale 1:21 000 1 cm = 210 m

yd ł

F

na Win wa no go Za ina im Oz

Wo jsk a

E ska kow Piąt

POZNAŃ

D Sz

R yb aki Łą ko

C

Sokoła

B

a Gronow

A

1

dy

© OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.

G

Żelaz ka Park Jana Pawła II

H

M

N

O

za pl a

Park Szelągowski

Garden

ta

Stu d zi en na

HL ON DA

Krańcowa

sk on k ar

Za bo wa

Św.

Mic hał a

Za nie m

ickiego

arskieg Ko n

y ska

ka

o

HP Park

Sło

Ka to w ic

ina

Br

Jan t

neń ZY ska WO US TE GO

Do ls

dsk ie

LAKE MALTA p. 76

ka

Do lsk a

go

a

k

raf ite

Se

E NH OFA

ZAM

W ar t a

Piast owsk

a

L

9

Ba ran iak a

a ńsk

ca Obrzy

a

Posnania

Pił su

RATAJE

Lw

za Milc

K

Galeria Malta a ńsk Malta Zabrz ańsk a Polan ka

e M alt

nim ska

10

ka

J

O brzyca

7

a

ka ws

I

Obrzyca

Jorda na

a

Lak

Inflan ck a

Ła c

KR

rsk Wiośla

Novotel Malta

Maltese Baths

a

e Plesz

Drog a D ęb ińsk a

Kór nick

a Jurack

Park Nad Wartą

i

ka

zn ic z a

ywo uste go

Te r m alna

sk a wy łko Wo

Kr z

6

Park Tysiąclecia

ka

Łu c

ka lis Ka

rni c

a ch Ro w.

Kró low Jadw ej igi

Ś

Mił os ław sk a Zdrojowa

WARSZAWSKA

s ow

Kó

Baraniak

ar

Ibis

o

o wo

Pio tro wo

Garb ar y

a

ieg ielk

Św ię Ro tego cha

5

8

ch

JAN A PAWŁ A II

Be rd y

Park Tadeusza Mazowieckiego

Bieln ik

Ch le

g órz e

Garbar y

Za

la ob Gr

Bamber Museum

Tom

PO D

t ró

ask owa

Pi ska

Szewsk a

Wronie ck a

Żydo w

Sz k

olna

Wrocław ska

Malta Fountain

a

ay ilw Ra a ini sk aM jań nk lta Ma

CHWALISZEWO

Łaskarz

o ięt Św

Wieżowa

Cz

ria

St. John of Jerusalem

Ethnographic Museum

wa sto

l ec k S trze

rza ło w a

Szyperska go

kow s k a

gi

Monastery

St. Kazimierz Hotel Śródka St. Margaret's w I Mieszka Wyszyński Os e go o kieg Bridge Chrobrego Wyszyńs Bridge Virgin Mary

a rto

W

r

Małachowskie go

Gdańska Reformist

ŚRÓDKA

s ki Tum

Długa

wa

en

Genius Loci Porta Posnania

Mo

Za Bram k ą

a

Wielka

Gołę b ia

Archdiocese Museum Poznań Cathedral

E s tk o ws ki e

Stawna

Kozia

OSTRÓW TUMSKI p. 67

OSTRÓW TUMSKI

POZNAŃ CENTRE p. 94

N

Ko

Św. Winc entego

St. Adalbert's

3

4

a

Św. Micha ła

Północn a

Woźna Wodna

wad y

ata rn

Be

Cy bi na

Garbary

r zeby

Główna

Śre dz

SK A

Poznań Army Museum

WA LE

tish Military Cemetery

o

W ar

OW

ĄG EL

SZ oku St

Na

ska rcer Ha

Museum Armaments

2

lnik

S

Headless Figures

1

do Na

Citadel Park

M

ka Śrems

N

In fla nc k

y

P

Hotel Hostel BAŁTYCK A Church Synagogue/Jewish centre Museum Gallery Monument Tourist information Cinema Theatre ka riac Concert Ma Hall Bus station m nia Train station o ln ed Bl Śr a Viewpoint ac ha Market rs ka Guarded parking Street Art

Bni ńsk a

gra d

Lzak

or y

łaj ow a

Wi no

lą

W ilc

C

Prz e

de

ta

W ilc za k

Kmie Z ag ca rod nic za

Wójt owsk a

Murawa

Z

y aC

K

Ug

a Gronow

a Sadow ieka

rady Winog

Sło wia ńsk a

J

Gromad zka

I

O

11

Piaś nick a

12

P

8

7

0 m

Residence & Workshop of Kazimiera Iłłakowiczówna

Sienkiew icza

Environment Museum

ck Śniade

i ch

Velvet

G

ŁO

G

A ło SK G W O

ka ws go

D

Main Train Station

Main Bus Station

Avenida Poznań

a ow ad

E

a ow rz ich p S

E

Św. M arcin

wa no zy a ag M

Fred ry

Taylora

Poznań Philharmonic

The Imperial Castle

Park Adama Mickiewicza

Great Theatre

Lib

Św. M arc

Fusion

G Tacz ak

a

r ca arn

ło m

Wielkopolskich

F

owskiego Niedziałk

ks. Wujka

in

27 Grudn

o

ia

Poco Loco

G

Pasa ż

wi gi Park Drwęskich

Ja d

Novotel

Literary

Park Dąbrowskiego

Platinum Capital Palace Ogrodowa

A p ollo

Kw ia t

Królow ej Jadw igi Righteous Among the Nations Square

Eurolines

H

Stawna

I

Królow ej Jadw igi

Explorer

Wodna

Woźna

8

7

10

9

St. Francis of Assissi

go lkie Wie

Kolegiacki

Park Fryderyka Chopina Po dg órn a na lo ie Z

Długa

The Jewish Community

6

Domin ikańska Rezydencja Solei B&B Dalineum Wielka Poznań Croissant Museum

Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus

Rosemary's Gołębi a

Corpus Christi

wa ko Łą

ba

Krakowska

o Pomarańczarnia wa

Ry

a

Mokra

PURO

Archaeological

Stare Miasto ki

a

Kupiec Poznański St rze le c k

Chocolate

I

Małe G arba New Synagogue ry

Historical

Garden Boutique

Francisz kańsk a

Franciscan

Po dg Don Prestige órn a St. Martin's ok a Wys

Galeria Św. M MM arcin

IBB Andersia

G

Wielkopolska Market

Wo lnica

H

The Royal Castle National Museum

Al. Marcinkowskiego

Paderewskiego Bazar Hotel Pharmacy Rzymski Museum Kozia Very Berry La Guitarra

i

go 23 Lute

Soln a

Pl. Wolnośc

ły M

ka ńs

h Kośc ius Stary Browar zk i Blow Up Hall 5050

Kr ól ow ej

c ny

y

pl.

Ratajskiego

ł ia Dz

h

go

kic ńs

No wo wi ejs k ie

g ie sk yń

ż iel M Okrąglak

Royal NH Poznań

Lech

Park Karola Marcinkowskiego

ców stań Pow

Mat yi

elt a

Dominican Church

F

Wierzbięcice

C

Jewish Cemetery

Poznań Congress Centre (Sala Ziemi MTP)

W S KA

Sheraton

ie g o

Rondo Kaponiera

Słow ack

o

Classico Kras Apartments ińsk iego

Mercure

BUKO

INTERNATIONAL TRADE FAIR (MTP)

Center Poznań

ALDZKA GRUNW World Trade

BUKO WSK A

250 m

Soda Dąb row skie g

D

wa olo Top

10

9

Asn

The Old Zoo

Prus a

Scale 1:11 600 1 cm = 116 m

POZNAŃ CENTRE

Gajowa

LTA

C

Reja

o

Koc han ows kieg

ZE Y LA ND A

o ieg W ie n iaw sk ści

Al. N iepo dleg ło

wicz a

Mic kie

ROOS EVELT A

i

Kościusz k

i

Ko ś

ciu szk Gwarn a

6

Śniadecki ch

Ratajczaka

Wronie ck a

pols ki

Pl. W ielko

S zkoln a

yk a

go

Święcick ie

Kantaka

ROO SEV E

Dworc owa

Dwor co wa

ka

Szewsk a

© OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.

dnia

Zacho

Skł

Woln e Tory

Towa rowa

I Al. Kr óla P rzem ysła I

a

a

ci Niez

wi cz sie

sk

ś gło dle o ep Ni Al.

Gó rn a W ilda Dolna W ilda

ci

Kr y

ło ś

ry

Pół wie jska

Al. Ni e

g dle po us

St rz ał ow

K

i o śc zk i Rata jcza

Wrocła wska

Bóżnic za Żydow sk a

Klasz to rna

Ślusar ska

Za Bramką

aja 3M a Piek

Garb ary

Działowa

Strze lecka

h

Garbar y

iec Garbar y

ojc .W Św

Różana

Przemysłowa

ic sk row sio ą G

h

LET’S MEET IN

BROVARIA The only place like it in Poznań

A business lunch, a family dinner, a date or a beer with friends...

Original dishes from European cuisine and unique beer brewed in our own brewery help create a unique atmosphere for every occasion.

Stary Rynek 73-74, 61-772 Poznań, tel. +48 61 858 68 68, +48 61 858 68 78 • www.brovaria.pl

BIGGEST SHOPPING IN THE CENTER OF POZNAŃ

200 STORES 30 RESTAURANTS THE ONLY STORE IN POZNAŃ