Poznan In Your Pocket March - June 2018

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Poznań No. 49, March – June 2018 Old Town Walking Tour

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Contents

Poznań Feature Poznań Old Town Tour

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Photo by Łukasz Wypiór. Courtesy of City of Poznań

Arrival & Transport

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Shopping

78

Basic History

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Directory

84

What’s On 20

Hotels

86

Cafés

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Maps & Indexes

Restaurants

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Nightlife

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Street Index Listings Index Features & Categories Index City Map City Centre Map

Sightseeing Essential Poznań 55 Stary Rynek Walking Tour 56 Museums 61 Ostrów Tumski 66 Citadel Park 69 Jewish Poznań 72

Leisure Lake Malta iyp.me/polandblog

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Foreword As spring arrives in Poznań, we at In Your Pocket are doing a bit of spring cleaning: in this issue, rather than listing Old Town sights in categories, we assembled a walking tour which will hopefully help you spend less time planning your itinerary and more time sightseeing. Other fresh things this season include the newly reopened Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (p.65), which has finally entered the 21st century, and a number of great upcoming film and music festivals, including the Aquanet Jazz Festival (p.21-22), Ethno Port (p.24), and Malta (p.24). As always, we advise you not to miss the Night of Museums (p.23) if you’re here on May 19th, and encourage you to check out more cultural events in our ‘What’s On’ section starting on p.20.

Once the weather warms, Poznań citizens will start heading out to Lake Malta, the city’s favourite recreation spot (p.76), and to green spaces including Citadel Park (p.69) and the Botanical Garden (p.75), and you’ll do well to follow suit.

However, it’s not all clear skies all the time around here, and in the case of spring showers our recommendations are chilling out at the Maltese Baths (p.77) and checking out one or two of the city’s museums (p.61). Whatever you get up to, we hope you enjoy, and welcome to Poznań!

Born in Upper Silesia, Janina Krzysiak spent her formative years outside of Philadelphia, PA, before moving back to Poland to indulge her love for cheap air travel, walkable cities, and Eastern European nostalgia. When she’s not writing and editing travel guides, she moonlights as a nuclear physicist. No, really.

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COVER STORY This view from the Old Town Hall by ©malajscy captures some of the colourful townhouses lining the Main Square (p.56) in front of the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus.

Discover Poznań’s Old Town in our walking tour, beginning on p.6.

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 15,000 copies published 3 times per year Sales Consultant: Agata Urbanowicz (+48) 606 749 642 Events & Marketing: Monika Boguszewska Stopka (+48) 882 079 723 Writer & Editor: Janina Krzysiak Events Editor: Emilia Meres Research: Aleksandra Mańkut, Patrycja Ples Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

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Poznań In Your Pocket

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Poznań Old Town Tour

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Poznań Old Town Tour While Poznań is relatively spread out, the bulk of its tourist attractions are located within its historical Old Town and west towards the train tracks, where the Imperial Castle resides.

This is the area covered by this walking tour; for places of interest further away from the centre, including Ostrów Tumski and Citadel Park, see our sightseeing section which begins on p.54. The tour is approximately 2km long and can take as little as half an hour if you dash through it, though for the more inquisitive tourist a few hours seems more likely.

Meandering through the Old Town streets is encouraged, as are breaks for coffee, beer, or your poison of choice in the city’s many cosy cafes and beer gardens.

1 LESSER BASILICA OF ST. STANISLAUS One of Poznań’s most impressive historic monuments, the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus, which it became in October 2010, was created as a Jesuit temple in the 17th century. It boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists, with some fine period ornamentation found in the chapels of the Holy Cross (which features a 16th-century crucifix), and the Virgin Mary (which has a precious copy of the painting of The Mother of God of Incessant Help). The Basilica hosts organ concerts played on an instrument dating from 1876 on Saturdays at 12:15.QI‑7, ul. Gołębia 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 69 50, www.fara.archpoznan.pl. Open 06:00 - 19:30, No visiting during mass please.

Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus

© Photocreo Bednarek, AdobeStock

2 UL. ŻYDOWSKA Originally called ul. Sukiennicza (Cloth Hall Street), this unassuming lane became the de facto centre of Jewish life as early as the 13th century, when the first Jewish settlers in Poznań were given plots of land here. Eventually renamed Judenstrasse and later ul. Żydowska (both meaning simply Jewish Street), it retained this character until the tragedy of the Holocaust.

While here, keep an eye out for the former Salomon Beniamin Latz Home for the Elderly and Infirm (ul. Żydowska 15/18). Established in 1908 after the Latz foundation swapped properties with the Jewish Community, the home took the place of three synagogues that used to exist at the address; meanwhile, the foundation’s former hospital at ul. Wroniecka was torn down to make room for the New Synagogue. If you manage to get in (the building is currently residential), traces of the in-house synagogue’s balcony can be seen in the stairwell. Another building of

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MAIN SQUARE

To begin a walking tour of Poznań anywhere but the glorious main square would be silly. The rynek has enough points of interest to warrant its own walking tour, which starts on p.56. note is the former Jewish Library at ul. Żydowska 32, founded in 1904.

Closer to the market square, the unassuming Church of the Most Holy Blood of Jesus (ul. Żydowska 34) is a testament to the vicious anti-Semitism that plagued the city for much of its history. As the sordid story goes, in 1399 several local Jews managed to get ahold of Christian sacramental bread and desecrated it by placing it on a table and stabbing it with a knife, whereupon blood burst from the wafers. Terrified, the Jews attempted to bury the hosts, only to find that the stubborn things would magically unbury themselves and float about in the air. When a young shepherd found them floating above the marshes, a chapel was erected at the site - later rebuilt as the Corpus Christi Church - and the perps were harshly punished. This fabulous yarn was passed down among the city’s Christian populace for centuries, and when a mysterious blood-stained table was found hidden in the building at ul. Żydowska 34 in the 17th century, it was immediately deemed to be the piece of furniture involved in the infamous act of sacrilege and carried to the Corpus Christi Church in a procession of several thousand. The building itself was transformed into the Church of the Most Holy Blood of Jesus; dare to venture inside and you’ll be greeted with an 18th-century fresco portraying the Jewish trio at their nefarious task assisted by none other than the devil. The only good thing we can say here is that an antique plaque referring to the profanation of the hosts, which used to adorn the church’s facade, was taken down in 2005 by the archbishop; better late than never.QI‑6/7, ul. Żydowska.

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Poznań Old Town Tour 3 NEW SYNAGOGUE Consecrated on September 5, 1907, the New Synagogue on ul. Wroniecka was once a much more lavish structure.

Designed by Berlin architects Cremer & Wolfenstein at a cost of one million marks (to put things in perspective, the cost of the Imperial Castle came to five million), the synagogue boasted a floor plan based on the Greek cross, space for 1,200 worshippers (600 men, 600 women), and originally included a copper-plated dome. Following the outbreak of WWII the building was commandeered by the Nazis and redeveloped into a swimming pool and

ALPHAS

ul. Żydowska

Photo by Radomil, CC BY-SA 3.0

Widely considered the buildings that ruined ul. Święty Marcin, the ‘Alphas’ are an architectural nightmare from the deep People’s Republic, more due to their current dishevelled state and unfortunate contrast with neighbouring townhouses than due to the actual design. These five modernist high-rises connected by a sprawling two-level gallery with shops and services are actually very similar to the Hötorget buildings in Stockholm and high-rises along Prager Straße in Dresden. Born a bit later than their counterparts in other countries, they were built between 1965 and 1972, designed by Poznań architect Jerzy Liśniewicz. To make room for this new ‘cosmopolitan’ complex, 19th century houses had to be torn down, but the end result fulfilled its goals – it modernized the street and drew communist-era masses, impoverished and longing for more consumerist options, to its relatively well-stocked shop windows. Currently, the stretch of Św. Marcin along the Alphas is undergoing a major overhaul (as you could guess from the completely dug-up road), and is set to become a more welcoming, pedestrianoriented area with beer gardens and greenery, if the visualisations are to be believed. The Alphas too are set for renovation, though complicating matters is the fact that each has a different owner. We eagerly await results and hope this part of town can finally become presentable, as - for better or worse – the Alphas remain one of Poznań’s most characteristic structures.

QF/G‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 40-72.

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Poznań In Your Pocket

rehabilitation centre for Wehrmacht soldiers. After the war the synagogue continued to function as a municipal pool - leading some to jokingly brand it the ‘swimagogue’ - until the poor state of the building forced its closure.

Returned to the Jewish community in 2002, a gallery was opened instead, sporadically hosting free exhibits. Though plans have been raised to adapt it into a community centre complete with prayer halls, kosher restaurant, and conference facilities, the small problem of raising what was once estimated at $50 million USD (the number may be higher now) proved too large an obstacle. More recently, there has been talk of converting the building into an upscale hotel with a small commemorative museum, but it looks like those plans have been put on hold as well, and the synagogue currently stands empty, facing an uncertain future.QI‑6, ul. Wroniecka 11A. 4 CITY FORTIFICATIONS As a typical central European city, Poznań of course was once snugly encircled by city walls and a moat, with four gates guarding the passage into the narrow streets. Along the walls rose a number of defensive towers named after the guilds who were normally responsible for manning them: there was the Wheelwright Tower, Butcher Tower, and Cloth Tower, to name a few. Originally built sometime in the 13th century, the fortifications were unfortunately largely destroyed during the Swedish Deluge in the 17th century and later invasions of the city, and what was left was almost completely taken apart by the Prussians in

New Synagogue

Roweromaniak CC BY-SA 2.5

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Poznań Old Town Tour the 19th and early 20th centuries to make room for new building projects. One of those was a rather splendid neoGothic fire station, which - lovingly refurbished - survives to this day at ul. Masztalarska 3. Passing through its courtyard is a stretch of reconstructed city wall and two rebuilt towers: Baszta Strażacka (Firefighter Tower, not the original name), and Baszta Katarzynek, once part of a convent inhabited by Dominican nuns (then known as Katarzynki).

Part of a third tower, Baszta Armatnia (Artillery Tower) stands on the Roman Wilhelmi Square. Completed in 2008, the resurrected city fortifications are a lovely place for a (short) stroll north of the main square.QH-6, Stretching between the Rabbi Akiva Eger Square and the Roman Wilhelmi Square.

STARY BROWAR

City Fortifications 5 ROYAL CASTLE Every European city worth its salt has a castle, and Poznań actually has two. Indeed, the 20th century ‘Zamek’ west of the Old Town is neither Poznań’s oldest, nor most important castle. Wander just one block west of the market square and you’ll find yourself at the foot of Góra Przemysła, crowned

by Poznań’s former Royal Castle.

Once the pride of Poznań, the original construction was begun approximately 1249 by Przemysł I - Duke of the Piast dynasty who had chosen Poz as his capital. Work on the royal residence was continued by his son, and by the time Kazimierz the Great (a prince at the time) moved in in the early 14th century, Poznań’s Royal Castle was the largest non-ecclesiastical building in Poland. Its fortunes

Royal Castle

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Photo by Volgar, flickr.com, CC BY-SA 2.0

Housed in an old brewery dating from 1844, the awardwinning Stary Browar complex has been dubbed an art, leisure, and shopping extravaganza, and its success a sign of Poznań’s economic renaissance. Its opening in 2003 also marked a successful move away from out-of-town developments, and a new trend for inner-city regeneration projects. Originally home to the Huggerów Brewery, the building produced beer until 1980, then mineral water until 1998, when it was bought by the Fortis Group and a $66 million USD investment transformed it into the shopping and entertainment Mecca it is today. Home to tonnes of art and outstanding design details, Stary Browar also features a 5-Star hotel, dozens of restaurants, cafes, and bars, and over 200 retail spaces, in which you’ll find both name brands and popular chain stores.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 601 34 84 83, www. starybrowar5050.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. took a serious turn for the worse in early 18th century when it was sacked several times in quick succession by the Swedes, the Russians, and then disgruntled nobles.

Governor General Kazimierz Raczyński restored the medieval buildings and created a state archive here in 1783 - a function it would serve until WWII. During the Siege of 1945, the castle had the misfortune of being in the line of fire with the Nazi stronghold on Citadel Hill and that was that.

In 1959 the decision was taken to rebuild Raczyński’s contribution to the hill, which today houses the Applied Arts Museum. Until recently, the Castle’s rich historical value as the seat of early Polish royalty, numerous royal births, weddings, and treaty signings seems to have been undervalued, but that’s in the past now. Between 2010 and 2016 the castle underwent a total restoration, and is now fully open, including the castle tower, observation decks, and Prince Przemysł I Hall.QH‑7, Góra Przemysła. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon. From June 16 open 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł. Tue free.

March – June 2018

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Poznań Old Town Tour NEON ART

POZNAŃ NIGHTINGALES NEON This playful neon art, portraying a flock of colourful nightingales sitting on a five-line music staff and lighting up in rapid succession, has been installed on the facade of the Philharmonic to honour its “Poznań Nightingales” choir. Founded in the early days of WWII by a nineteen-year-old named Stefan Stuligrosz, the men’s and boys’ choir initially staged underground performances in Poznań churches as an act of resistance against Nazi occupation. After the war they were taken under the wing of the Philharmonic, with Stuligrosz acting as the choir’s artistic director as well as the president of the Poznań Music Academy. The neon was created in 1974 by Antoni Rzyski and symbolises Stuligrosz (the yellow nightingale at the bottom of the staff, whose light doesn’t flicker off ) and his singers.

It’s worth to note that the Poznań Nightingales are of no relation to the Polish Nightingales, another Poznań choir which has been implicated in a horrific child abuse scandal - just in case you were wondering.QF-7, ul. Św. Marcin 81.

this large? Big-headed higher-ups needed a representative space capable of containing an entire infantry regiment during military parades. A fire in 1803 helped to “clean up” the area, and a Jewish cemetery was liquidated to make more space, while a new theatre was built to give the square a touch of class (today the renovated building, known as Arkadia, houses an Empik bookstore and tourist information centre). For a brief period between the 1806 Wielkopolska Uprising (and subsequent invasion of Prussia

by Napoleonic forces) and the 1815 downfall of the semiindependent Duchy of Warsaw, the square was renamed in honour of Napoleon, and things were looking up for Poznań’s Polish populace; then it was back to Wilhelmsplatz and Prussian parades.

In the years leading up to the Great War the square underwent numerous changes, as Polish and Prussian institutions vied for space and influence, encircling the space with buildings designed according to the latest architectural fashion; those included St. Adalbert’s Publishing House (now St. Adalbert’s Bookstore aka Księgarnia Św. Wojciecha, no. 1), the Haase Department Store (no. 4), the Brandt Department Store (no. 8), the Raczyński Library (no. 19), the Provincial Museum in Posen (now a National Museum building, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9), and Bazar Hotel (Al. Marcinkowskiego 10). A monument to the 1866 PrussoAustrian Battle of Nachod popped up, as did a figure of war hero General Steinmetz, and, finally, King Wilhelm III; all three were torn down triumphantly when Poznań returned

6 FRANCISCAN CHURCH Built in the years 1674-1728, there’s seemingly not much to this church just off the market square. Hidden behind the bland exterior, however, is an absolute explosion of Baroque over-indulgence, with colourful carved wood, stucco, and paintings by local monk Adam Swach. His brother, Antoni, designed the high altar and ornamented stalls, which literally jump out at you in their bright flamboyance. It’s a spectacle worth seeing, but visitors also flock to this church to see the Marian shrine, which has housed a famous picture of the Miracle-Working Virgin Mary, also known as the Lady of Poznań, for 300 years.QH‑7, ul. Franciszkańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 852 36 37, www.poznan.franciszkanie.pl. Open 06:30 - 19:00.

No visiting during mass please.

7 PLAC WOLNOŚCI (FREEDOM SQUARE) Though it is difficult to imagine now, Poznań’s large and typically empty ‘Freedom Square’ was once the heart of the city - a favourite spot of the upper classes for strolls and coffee. Originally named Wilhelmsplatz (William’s Square) in honour of King Frederick William III of Prussia, it was demarcated by the city’s new Prussian authorities at the very end of the 18th century, soon after Poland was wiped off the map by the three partitioning forces of Prussia, Russia, and Austria-Hungary. The main reason for a square

10 Poznań In Your Pocket

Franciscan Church

Photo by Łukasz Zandecki. Courtesy of TRAKT Center for Cultural Tourism

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Poznań Old Town Tour

Plac Wolności

to Polish hands following WWI, and the square was given its current name. It wouldn’t last; after a blissful 20 interwar years, during which the square functioned as the cultural centre of Poznań, the square was dug open with trenches in preparation for WWII, and soon German forces once again marched in, renaming the square - you guessed it - Wilhelmsplatz. After the war (and another name change), Plac Wolności was rebuilt according to the concept of Witold Milewski and Zygmunt Skupniewicz, with trees cut down and a Hygieia statue (which had been placed on the square in 1908 to commemorate the expansion of the city waterworks) moved in front of the Raczyński Library.

In 2005 a large underground parking lot was added, and in 2012 Freedom Square’s most recognizable landmark was unveiled - the “Freedom Fountain” (Fontanna Wolności), a geometric structure with two 10-metre wings (or sails) made out of glass. Nowadays the square is the go-to for holding protests and demonstrations.QG/H‑7, Plac Wolności.

Okrąglak

12 Poznań In Your Pocket

Photo by Tadeusz Rudzki, CC BY-SA 3.0

8 OKRĄGLAK Looking for remnants of the People’s Republic? Cast your camera to the western end of ul. Grudnia (A-2), where the imposing Okrąglak (Rotunda) presides over a four-point intersection. This cylindrical marvel is one of Poznań’s defining icons and has been a listed building since 2003.

Constructed between 1948 and 1954 this beast is a leading example of Polish modernism, built to a blueprint by Marek Leykam. Originally slated to be ten storeys, this eight floor masterpiece once housed Poznań’s top department store, and it was here that during the lean years of communism locals would queue to buy ‘luxury’ products unavailable elsewhere. After years of abject neglect, in 2011-2012 the Okrąglak was restored and converted into 51,000 square metres of A-class office space.QF‑7, ul. Mielżyńskiego 14.

Imperial Castle

Photo by Radosław Maciejewski. Courtesy of City of Poznań

9 IMPERIAL CASTLE (ZAMEK)

More a palace than a ‘castle,’ work began on Poznań’s fearsome ‘Zamek’ in 1905 to serve as the provincial residence of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Designed in the neo-Romanesque style by Franz Schwechten, the west wing held Wilhelm’s living quarters, the east wing his immaculate throne room, with the northern part of the complex consisting of service rooms and beautiful gardens based on the Alhambra’s Courtyard of the Lions. The Kaiser got the keys in 1910 but didn’t stay long before WWI and the following Wielkopolska Uprising resulted in a Polish Poznań once again. Between the wars the Zamek became the seat of Poznań University, before the Third Reich swooped in and Albert Speer, Hitler’s pet architect, transformed the tower chapel into the Fuehrer’s office, and the second floor into the residence of Arthur Greiser (Nazi governor of the district). The castle was badly damaged during the Soviet liberation and there was even a post-war campaign to have the structure bulldozed. In the end the drastic measures stopped with reducing the principal tower to a third of its original height.

Used by the University in the two years following the war, and then as the seat of local government, the Zamek has operated as a cultural centre since 1962, hosting hundreds of theatre performances, concerts, film screenings and other events in its palatial halls each year. The basement houses the 1956 Uprising Museum, and throughout the large complex visitors will find several restaurants, cafes and bars, including the popular Dubliner Irish Pub. Guided tours of the castle in English are available for 150zł but must be booked in advance by calling +48 61 646 52 88.QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.ckzamek. pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Free admission without tour. iyp.me/poznan

Arrival & Transport

BY TRAIN MAIN TRAIN STATION Poznań’s main train station (Dworzec Poznań Główny) is opposite the Trade Fair Centre and about 10 minutes by taxi to the main square. The site of a massive 160 million złoty redevelopment project over the last few years, a new transportation centre has arisen alongside the old train station building, which integrates rail, tram, and bus connections in one modern, state-of-the-art underground transit station. As a result, this is now the point of entry for most visitors to the city, including those arriving at the airport and taking the direct bus to the centre, which drops off here.

small surcharge. Check the timetables online at the Polish railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has good English functionality; if you want a seat on a particular train, it is best to book ahead.

Taxis await you immediately outside, and a ride to the main square costs about 20-30zł. Alternatively, hop on tram number 5 (to ‘Wrocławska’) or number 8 (to ‘Pl. Wielkopolski’) from the ‘Most Dworcowy’ stop located on the bridge, and you will only have a short 6-7 minute walk to the main square; a 10-minute ticket will suffice. QD‑9, ul. Dworcowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made between 24:00 - 01:00.

In this day and age, ‘modern’ and ‘state-of-the-art’ not only connote sleek, fully handicap-accessible facilities, but the incorporation of a new shopping mall (with parking for 900 cars), plus dozens of other opportunities for consumerism and refreshment dotted around the station (welcome to the 21st century). Other now-standard amenities include lockers for large luggage (have some coins handy), currency exchange and bank machines. The city of Poznań operates a tourist information desk, but there’s also the PKP-operated Train Station Office (open 07:00 - 21:00), which can help you plan your trip, get tickets, and even get into town.

Normal ticket windows are conveniently open 24hrs, but using the ticket machines (which have English options) is just as easy. If you’re running late, note that it is possible to buy tickets onboard the train from the conductor for a 14 Poznań In Your Pocket

© Tomasz Francuzik; courtesy of City of Poznań

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Arrival & Transport

BY BUS MAIN BUS STATION At the end of 2013, PKS Poznań Bus Station was integrated into the city’s spiffy new transportation centre below the Avenida shopping mall - more info on which you can find under Main Train Station, including what amenities are available, and how to get into town.QE‑9, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 703 30 33 30, www.pks.poznan.pl.

Ticket office open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 19:00.

TI open 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

BY PLANE

RIDING THE POLISH RAILS The Polish rail network has steadily improved over the last decade with new stations in most of the country’s major cities, new rolling stock, and new high-speed lines now available. The high-speed Pendolino route between Kraków and Gdańsk (via Warsaw), christened in 2014, has cut travel times between the north and south from 12 to only 5.5 hours. Though the costs of have increased, by western standards Polish rail travel is still very affordable, with a first-class ticket from Warsaw to Kraków costing about 150zł (€35).

Travel times can vary widely depending on the type of train making the journey. Generally the longer a train takes, the older the rolling stock, the less amenities it will have and the less comfortable you’ll be. The shorter the journey, the nicer the train (and higher the ticket price). The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run so many different classifications of train that it makes the head spin, but here’s a quick run-down.

Express InterCity Premium (EIP): the fastest and most comfortable trains which PKP offer (Pendolino), includes electrical sockets, limited wi-fi, adjustable seats and a restaurant carriage serving food and refreshments.

POZNAŃ ŁAWICA AIRPORT Poznań Ławica Airport lies a convenient 7km west of central Poznań.

In the Arrivals terminal you’ll find an exchange bureau (kantor), cash machine (bankomat), and food vendors, as well as a tourist info point where you can pick up additional copies of Poznań’s best guidebook (wink). As with all sensible airports in this day and age, there is absolutely no left luggage facility.

Express InterCity (EIC): comfortable first and second class compartments, which include electrical sockets and limited wi-fi service. InterCity (IC) trains are modern, comfortable and relatively cheap and will get you to wherever you need to go. EuroCity/EuroNight (EC/EN) are the perfect choice for rail trips around Europe. EuroCity trains are quick connections to major European cities, and EuroNight are fast international night trains.

Getting to town is a cinch. Car rental is available, and taxis stand right outside the entrance, though you’ll probably overpay to take one. Aim to pay around 30-35zł for the taxi fare to the centre, but keep in mind that it can shoot up to 50zł during the nighttime; as always, agree on a fare with the driver before committing.

Twoje Linie Kolejowe (TLK), are much cheaper and older trains with mostly second class compartments, requiring no prior reservation - just board and find yourself a seat. You may find yourself on a TLK route if you’re travelling to a small town. Our advice is not to show up early, as these routes are often overcrowded and you may be forced to sit or stand in the aisle.

Alternatively, cut costs by catching a bus, which will get you to the centre in 15-20 minutes. From the stop right outside the entrance, line 59 heads to ‘Rondo Kaponiera’ and the main train station (Poznań Główny) at least three times per hour from 05:05 to 24:00. At other times the airport is connected to the train station by night bus 242, which runs at 00:30, 01:30, 03:00, 04:00 daily; journey time 20 mins to ‘Most Teatralny’. Single 40-minute tickets (4.60zł) can be bought from kiosks, TI or ticket machines; remember to validate your ticket immediately upon boarding.Qul. Bukowska 285 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 43, www. airport-poznan.com.pl.

For more information on train times and prices check the official website of Polish Railways - www.rozklad. pkp.pl, or try the very useful route planning site e-podroznik.pl. On the former you can book a ticket without the hassle of queuing at the station. If you find yourself faced with long queues in the train station then you’ll be pleased to hear you can hop on most trains (except EIP trains!) and buy a ticket direct from the conductor. You’ll pay a 10zł surcharge for this, but credit cards are now accepted.

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Arrival & Transport TRANSPORT TOOLS/APPS JAKDOJADE Despite the fact that Poznań’s tram and bus network is easy to use, even for foreigners, we’ll still admit to being a bit put off from using it at first; that is until we discovered the veritable skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the poznan. jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app for your smartphone. The former is a wonderful free tool for advance planning, but the paid app is more practical for figuring out how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town and away from your computer. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically) and destination, or pin the locations on a map; select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. Finished at the museum and want to head back to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop, and even tell you which ticket to buy. It’s brilliant and absolutely worth the few Euros it costs to download.

E-PODRÓŻNIK This site can also help you get from point A to point B within Poznań, but is really invaluable when it comes to planning the journey to your next destination by bus or train. Use e-podroznik.pl to easily search bus and train connections and timetables, compare prices and even buy tickets in one of seven languages. There’s also a free mobile app (Android only).

MYTAXI The world’s first and most popular taxi app is very much available in PL. MyTaxi allows you to compare rates, arrival times, car models, and more, sending the cab of your choice to your location (and allowing you to track its progress) without you having to talk to any dispatchers. Download it for free from their website: mytaxi.com.

UBER Uber (uber.com) has indeed arrived in Poland, recently opening their European hub in Kraków.

If you’re already an Uber user, you’ll find that the alternative taxi service - whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash, no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage across Poznań and all of Poland, however there are some drawbacks. Specifically, Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for slightly cheaper rates.

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BY CAR Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of getting behind the wheel here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.

The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/ hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and USA) will find their licences technically invalid (though this has never been a problem for anyone we know).

Driving to Poznań is fairly easy as it’s on the main E30 highway between Warsaw and Berlin. Once you’ve arrived, driving around Poznań’s congested one-way streets can be incredibly trying, however, so we suggest you ditch your vehicle for public transport at the first opportunity, which raises the question of where to put it.

Public parking lots are marked on the maps in the back of our print guide, and free parking is basically non-existent, though some hotels have limited parking spaces for guests; check when booking your room. For street parking you’ll easily recognise the universal large blue ‘P’ sign, but be aware that a blue circle with a red ‘X’ over it means ‘No Parking’ (not sure which universe that sign is from). Pay via the automated ticket machines on the sidewalk, but note that they only take coins or special chip cards from the parking authority office (so forget that option). Generally having a private car in Poznań is a bad idea unless you have a safe, inexpensive place to keep it.

The ‘Maluch’ - iconic communist-era family car, and sadly unavailable to rent.

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Arrival & Transport CAR RENTAL

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid foreign driver’s licence or international driving permit. Be aware, however, that citizens from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk America, Australia) cannot legally drive on their licences and run the risk of hassle from the police (not that it ever stopped anyone we know from borrowing their girlfriend’s car, or renting one for that matter).

Enjoy cruising the EU, but don’t try leaving it in a rental car.

Poznań is crisscrossed by over one hundred tram and bus lines, including night routes, and represents the most time and cost efficient way to move about town. Due to frequent track work and route changes, however, your best bet for figuring out how to use public transport in Poz is the super-helpful website poznan.jakdojade.pl (mobile app also available), which can tell you exactly how to get from point A to Point B in English. Transport tickets are bought from automated machines found on most buses and trams, as well as at most transport stops, and thankfully you can pay by card (no need for coins!). The galaxy of ticket options are far too complex to review here; you can take it to heart that you won’t be leaving ‘Zone A’ unless you’re travelling far outside of the city-centre, as even Lake Malta is within Zone A. Tickets are timed, and the cheapest option is a notvery-cheap 3zł for only 10mins - which might only get you 3 or 4 stops. A 40-min ticket for 4.60zł is the safer bet, but if you plan on travelling often, you may want to consider a 24hr or 48hr ticket. Note that kids under five and adults over 70 ride for free.

AVIS Avis, the global leader in car rentals, offers short and long rental cars, vans, and chauffeur-driven vehicles, including everything from small city cars to shared vans, even hybrids. Over 1,000 models are available - all equipped with air conditioning, airbags and ABS to ensure both comfort and safety. Flexible terms of cooperation from experts in professionalism, convenience and safety. Also at Pl. Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel, G-9).Qul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 35, www.avis. pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Telephone line manned 24hrs a day.

EUROPCAR Qul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 57, www.europcar.pl. Open 08:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 23:30.

Finally, it is extremely important that you validate your ticket by punching it in the ‘kasowniks’ found by the bus/tram exit as soon as you board. Inspectors regularly travel the lines handing out hefty fines, and they aren’t sympathetic to tourists; seriously, riding without a ticket can not only ruin your day, but your entire trip to Poz.

TAXIS Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable and use their metres without any fiddling around. Calling ahead should get you a better fare, but if you hail one from the street make sure you choose a clearly marked cab with a company name and phone number displayed, as well as a sticker demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a printed receipt at journey’s end further limiting the likelihood of any funny business.

You should expect to pay 5zł for entering the taxi followed by 2zł per kilometre. Prices rise on Sundays, holidays, late at night and for travel outside of the city limits.

Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a point of contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a service that necessitates a tip and thereby, if you’re Polish, the driver may not expect one. But double standards being what they are, it’s anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you.

EURO TAXI Qtel. (+48) 61 811 11 11, www.euro-taxi.com.pl.

RADIO LUX TAXI Qtel. (+48) 61 196 62, www.luxtaxi.com.pl.

ZTP POZNAŃ Qtel. (+48) 61 196 22, www.taxi.com.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

TOURIST CARD Enterprising tourists should consider the Poznań Tourist Card - a splendid piece of plastic that entitles the bearer to free or discounted admission to more than 70 places, plus optional free travel on the city’s public transport system for a small additional fee. The card comes a guide explaining how to use it, which places offer free admission (most museums) and which offer discounts (a selection of restaurants, theatres and other attractions such as the zoos, Lech Visitors Centre and various leisure activities).

The card can also be used in selected places outside of the city, such as Kórnik Castle, where it is valid for an additional day on top of the number of days it is valid in the city.

Cards cost 35zł for 1-day (30zł without transport), 49zł for 2-days (35zł without transport), and 59zł for 3-days (45zł without transport), and can be purchased from every Tourist Information Centre as well as a few hotels. Every venue in our guide which accepts the Poznań Tourist Card has been marked with a TC symbol.

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Basic History Little do most visitors to Poznań realise, but the large and historical capital of Wielkopolska is the likely birthplace of the Polish state - in a way. As it happens, Poznań’s Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island) is a top candidate for the location of the 966 baptism of Prince Mieszko I, Poland’s first ruler (and also the guy on the 10zł note). Known as the Baptism of Poland, this bold move ushered Christianity into the previously-polytheistic Slavic populace and brought new importance to Mieszko’s state in the European scene. Other contenders for the birthplace title include nearby Gniezno, the first Polish capital (located 50km from Poznań), and the island of Ostrów Lednicki (located 35km from Poznań) both absolutely worth a visit if you’re interested in Polish history or archeological sites in general. All three were strongholds built by Mieszko I, who had a penchant for warfare, but it was Poznań that became the seat of Poland’s first missionary bishop, and it was here that the first Polish cathedral was erected in 968. Known as the St. Peter Basilica, it served as the final resting place for the early Polish kings, and its n-th iteration (now called the Archcathedral Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul, but commonly known as Poznań Cathedral) is still standing proudly on Ostrów Tumski.

HISTORICAL TIMELINE 966: Mieszko I potentially baptised here 968: Poland’s first bishop takes up residence in Ostrów Tumski, Poznań Cathedral built 1038: City burned down by Bretislaus I, Duke of Bohemia 1039: City rebuilt by Casimir the Restorer 1253: Magdeburg rights bestowed on the city, construction of fortifications and castle begins 1534: City scales built 1536: Major fire 1655: Swedish and Brandenburgian occupation of the city 1704: Battle of Poznań (Northern War) 1793: Annexed by Prussia, becomes ‘Posen’ 1806: Napoleon temporarily headquartered in the city 1807: Becomes part of the Duchy of Warsaw 1815: Becomes part of Prussia again 1918: Wielkopolska Uprising begins 1921: Poznań Fair starts 1945: Battle of Poznań 1952: Creation of Lake Malta 1956: Poznań June (workers’ protests) 1999: Becomes capital of the Wielkopolska Voivodeship 18 Poznań In Your Pocket

Workers demand bread during the 1956 Poznań protests.

As a result, Poznań was quickly elevated to the status of an important religious and political centre, and all seemed to be going well until the Czech nation attacked, forcing inhabitants to flee and burning the entire place to the ground in 1038. Thankfully, it was soon rebuilt by the appropriately-named King Casimir I the Restorer, but its days of political greatness were on hold - the capital had been moved from heavily-damaged Gniezno to faraway Kraków, leaving Poznań to develop as a trade and commerce hub instead.

The tide turned in 1253, when Przemysł I, Duke of Greater Poland, granted Magdeburg rights to the settlement during Poland’s feudal fragmentation, which lasted from 1138 until 1320. As fortifications and the Poznań Castle sprung up, the focus shifted from now-passe Ostrów Tumski to the new district centred around the Main Square. Poznań remained the capital of Wielkopolska rulers until the 1296 regicide of Przemysł II, when it came into Władysław I the Elbow-High’s sphere of influence. With the fragmentation resolved and King Elbow-High on the Polish throne in Kraków, the city was once again pushed into political insignificance and stagnation. Development and progress had to wait for the reign of Władysław II Jagiełło in the second half of the 14th century and the beginning of the 15th, whose pro-trade policies brought the city up to the ranks of Toruń and Lwów.

And yet, the true golden age was still to come. A time of comparative peace, a change of trade routes, and favourable law-making caused the city to thrive and flourish during the Polish Renaissance (1500-1630), drawing merchants and craftsmen from near and far, who expanded the city well beyond its original walls. Fires, floods, and plagues that erupted with a certain regularity kept things from being completely rosy, but these things were to be expected in even the most prosperous cities of the time. All of this idyll came to a crashing halt in 1655, with what’s known in Poland as the “Swedish Flood” - a rather savage invasion of the now-benign northern iyp.me/poznan

Basic History neighbours. The danger was compounded by their newlyfound allies, the Brandenburgians. First the Swedes, then the Brandenburgians acted as the city’s occupying force between August 1655 and August 1657, but they were ousted by a common uprising, which blockaded the city.

The trouble was far from over, however - undisciplined szlachta (Polish nobility) and Polish military plundered Poznań, a support army sent for John II Casimir Vasa marched through shortly after, adding to the devastation, and - just for good measure - a bubonic plague breakout reduced the remaining population to a pitiful level. At this point in history, more houses in Poznań were standing empty than occupied, a drastic and macabre change from the recent golden age. Sadly, the 18th century proved no better - a succession of armed conflicts including the Northern War, the War of the Polish Succession, the Seven Years’ War, and the Bar Confederation all took a heavy toll, and it wasn’t until 1775 that foreign forces left the city.

Things seemed to be looking up as Boni Ordinis (Good Order) Committees, organised by King Poniatowski, started the difficult process of restoring functionality to devastated Polish cities, but major trouble was ahead for the sovereign Polish state, as three forces - Russians, Prussians, and AustroHungarians - partitioned the country for good in 1795. It wouldn’t be until the end of WWI that Poland would regain independence; meanwhile Poznań had to cope with its new reality under Prussian occupation.

Doing so didn’t come easy, but Prussia’s war with Napoleon’s France provided a glimmer of hope. The successful 1806 Wielkopolska Uprising, aided by Napoleon himself, led to the creation of the Duchy of Warsaw, a short-lived state which fell to the Prussians again in 1815. A second uprising by inhabitants of the Poznań Province, in 1918-1919, secured the region’s safe return to the newly independent Polish state. During WWII, the region was to be annexed

by Germany again, and much of the Polish and Jewish populace to be shipped to concentration and forced labour camps. Towards the end of the war the city was the site of a key battle between advancing Soviet forces and retreating Nazis: the 1945 Battle of Poznań. It took a full month to oust the Germans, and the havoc wreaked on the city was immense; up to 90% of the historic Old Town was now in shambles and had to be reconstructed in the post-war years.

From 1952, the start-year of the socialist Polish People’s Republic, Poznań saw many workers’ protests stemming from dissatisfaction with the commie regime; they reached their peak in 1956, during the tragic Poznań June, a month of general strikes and street demonstrations brutally crushed by security forces, during which 57 people lost their lives. In the 1960s, intensive commie-style housing development started taking place, and the Warta River was re-routed to lessen the danger of flooding. Currently, Poznań is an industry, trade, and tourism hub, regularly hosting trade fairs and international events at its Poznań International Fair site. iyp.me/polandblog

THE PIASTS More than any other major city in the country, Poznań’s history is tied to the Piast dynasty and the very birth of Poland. Poland’s first ruling family were the Piasts, and though the family line goes back to the 8th century we’ll start with Mieszko I, Poland’s first ruler (he’s the fella on the 10zł note). Born in 935AD his life generally revolved around the battlefield, but when he wasn’t leading his troops into conflict from the Baltic Coast to the plains of Silesia, he spent most of his time here in Wielkopolska, specifically his fortresses in Poznań, Gniezno and Ostrów Lednicki. Baptised in 966 he founded Poznań Cathedral two years later, a move seen by many as the beginning of the nation’s Christianisation.

Meanwhile, Adalbert - the first Bishop of Prague - arrived in Gniezno in search of a quieter life. Soon, however, he was persuaded out of exile to convert the barbarous Prussian tribes to Christianity, but his head almost immediately ended up on a spike. Back in Poz, Mieszko had been succeeded by his son Bolesław I (find him on the 20zł note) in 992, who decided he would personally make the perilous journey to recover Adalbert’s corpse.

Bolesław’s act so impressed the Pope that he sent Otto III - the head of the Holy Roman Empire - to Gniezno in 1000 to view Adalbert’s remains and meet with Bolesław.

It was during this meeting that an archbishopric was established in Gniezno, and 25 years later Bolesław had himself crowned King. Commonly known as ‘Bolesław the Great’ or ‘Bolesław Chrobry’ the nation’s first regent is credited with unifying the regions of Poland, as well as strengthening Poland’s international standing through his smart diplomacy. Although his son and heir, Mieszko II, died in suspicious circumstances nine years into his reign, the Piasts remained in power and continued to rule Poland for centuries, despite frequently finding themselves in conflict with the landowners. Poland’s fragile unity regularly threatened to disintegrate, and upon the 1320 coronation of Władysław I concerted efforts were again made to unite Poland’s various provinces. The work of Władysław was carried on by King Kazimierz, who would later be known as ‘Kazimierz the Great’ - he doubled the size of Poland, stabilised the economy, commissioned the construction of a numerous castles and forts, and eventually got himself on the 50zł note. What he failed to do, however, was have a son (despite the efforts of four wives), and his death in 1370 marked the end of the Piast dynasty. Although the royal court was moved to Kraków in the 11th century the Wielkopolska region is synonymous with the Piasts and their time at Poland’s helm. Today, a special tourist route called ‘The Piast Route’ connects the most important sites integral to Poland’s early beginnings; for a comprehensive list visit the website of the Piast Route Tourist Organisation: www.turystyka.powiat-gniezno.pl.

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What’s On

Ethno Port Festival (p.24)

EVENTS BY DATE 16.03 18:00, 18.03 17:00 » RICHARD WAGNER’S PARSIFAL

Nearing 5h in length, donning extravagant stage design and breathtaking musical arrangements, Parsifal is quite the sensory undertaking, with pretty much guaranteed return on investment. Diehard opera lovers will surely enjoy taking in this masterpiece; if you’re a newb, you better brace yourself for the Mount Everest of operas— but you likely won’t regret it either. Beware the opera is performed in its original German version, with Polish supertitles.QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, www.opera.poznan.pl.

16.03 19:00 » NATALIA PRZYBYSZ / MIKROMUSIC / ODET

These 3 artists are touring to 8 Polish cities this spring, ambitiously testing just exactly how much oestrogen one stage can handle—on top of promoting some newly-released albums. Natalia Przybysz is a vocal powerhouse known for her trademark sensual R&B and soulful tunes, occasionally enhanced by some cello mastery. Mikromusic is a band led by vocalist Natalia Grosiak, and they are most known for the way they eloquently play between the lines of jazz, trip hop, rock, with an occasional sprinkling of folk. The melancholy and yet sharp-witted Odet also presents a unique combination of contrasts between music and lyrics— 20 Poznań In Your Pocket

the multi-talented pianist, vocalist and songwriter likes to take her audiences on a journey through the complexities of what it means to be human.QF‑7, ZAMEK Culture Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60. Tickets 75-85zł available at www. pwevents.pl.

20.03 - 25.03 » SHORT WAVES FESTIVAL

You may have noticed quite a number of short film festivals popping up on the Polish cultural landscape these days, but this one presents itself as the most “concise” of all. We certainly won’t contend that— given this year will be the festival’s 10th edition, we can imagine the organisers have managed to work out quite the bullet-proof system when it comes to a successful audience experience. Succinctness and efficiency aside, this festival is surely unique: it’s the only one we’ve heard about to date that involves welcoming audiences into random Poznanians’ private apartments for special film screenings. Cool, right?

It’s like Tinder for short films. (Except not.) Films are presented in 5 categories: International Competition, Polish Competition, Dances with Camera, Urban View and Best of Ten. Screenings and accompanying events take place in various locations scattered across the city, including art house cinemas, galleries, clubs, and cultural centres.QF‑7, ZAMEK Culture Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www. shortwaves.pl. iyp.me/poznan

What’s On 06.04 19:00, 08.04 18:00 » AIDA

A story of love triangles, royalty, military, war, betrayal, and death. Situated in Cairo, the work was commissioned by Egyptian Khedive Isma’il Pasha and created by renowned Italian opera composer Guiseppe Verdi in the second half of the 19th century. Performed thousands of times around the world, Aida is a mustsee and an excellent example of the clash between Western and Middle-Eastern cultural values.QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, www.opera.poznan.pl.

06.04 - 13.04 » SPANISH FILM WEEK

One week, 9 Polish cities, and a whole lot of film.

As the title suggests, Spanish Film Week provides a glimpse into the world of Spanish film—presenting some of the country’s most important and most popular recently released flicks. The best way to cultivate new potential tourists is through film, don’t you think? Even if you aren’t planning a springtime vacation, this might just be the ideal time to do a little cinematic-style getaway of sorts.QG‑8, Muza, ul. Św. Marcin 30, tel. (+48) 61 852 34 03, www. kinomuza.pl.

AQUANET JAZZ FESTIVAL 11-15th April 2018 Poznań OMAR SOSA & PAOLO FRESU KACPER SMOLIŃSKI NICHOLAS PAYTON SARAH McKENZIE E.J. STRICKLAND TINGVALL TRIO www.jazz.pl

11.04 20:00 » AQUANET JAZZ FESTIVAL: NICHOLAS PAYTON | FROM NEW ORLEANS TO GRAMMY

This New Orleans native is known as one pretty much one of the most important names in jazz today. Grammy Award-winner and general jazz multi-talent: whether it’s vocals, composition, mastering the trumpet or a number of other instruments—Payton rises to the occasion and makes magic with sound.QF‑7, ZAMEK Culture Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, Tickets 120/140zł available at www. ticketmaster.pl.

12.04 » AQUANET JAZZ FESTIVAL: TINGVALL TRIO | NORDIC SOUNDS, JAZZY NIGHT

This trio is pretty much the embodiment of everything anyone’s referring to when they whip out the trendy phrase “Scandinavian jazz-piano style.” Of course, the Swedes just have to always come up with all the good stuff, don’t they? The Tingvall Trio came to be in 2003 and very quickly rose up to the level of the most elite European jazz bands. Their style incorporates a seemingly perfect balance of free jazz, folk, rock & roll, and just the right amount of Cuban influence.QF‑7, ZAMEK Culture Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, Tickets 120/140zł available at www. ticketmaster.pl.

fot. Katarzyna Rainka

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What’s On 13.04 20:00 » AQUANET JAZZ FESTIVAL: E.J. STRICKLAND QUARTET | NEW YORK, NEW JAZZ

OPERA

A breath of fresh air in today’s jazz scene, the E.J. Strickland Quartet is synonymous for high-quality sounds and is considered to be part of today’s jazz elite.

The group’s musicians have been shaped by high-class institutions like Boston’s Berklee School of Music and the New World School of the Arts in Miami, and have worked with some of the best musicians the world of jazz has to offer.QF‑7, Blue Note Jazz Club, ul. Kościuszki 79, tel. (+48) 61 851 04 08, Tickets 100/120zł available at www.ticketmaster.pl.

14.04 18:00 » AQUANET JAZZ FESTIVAL: SARAH MCKENZIE | FROM STANDARDS WITH LOVE

Often referred to as “the next Diana Krall,” this Australian pianist and vocalist oozes with all things style, elegance and class. But putting her right in Krall’s shadow does McKenzie a disservice, as she’s really got enough talent and skill to stand out from the crowd all on her own. Mostly known for her musical tone, emulating a combination of sounds suspended somewhere between 30s and 40s style ballads, bossa nova, and blues, her intonation and stunning voice are unmistakeably McKenzie and nobody else.QTickets 100-160zł available at www.ticketmaster.pl.

15.04 20:00 » AQUANET JAZZ FESTIVAL: OMAR SOSA & PAOLO FRESU

When a Cuban pianist and composer joins forces with a brilliant Italian trumpet player, the result is pretty much fool-proof. Fresu is known as one of the best trumpet players of our time, and his impeccable improvisation skill and perfectly-honed craft are nearly unmatchable.

Sosa’s skills, roots, and influence take us across the world to Brazilian, Cuban, Central America to the Middle East and Africa. Together, they don’t just create impressive sounds, they take the audience on a journey to some of the most musically-developed corners of the world.QF‑7, ZAMEK Culture Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, Tickets 120/140zł available at www.ticketmaster.pl.

19.04 - 21.04 » ENEA SPRING BREAK: SHOWCASE FESTIVAL & CONFERENCE

Enea Spring Break is one of the biggest showcase festivals in Poland, acting as a conduit between some of the freshest up-and-coming Polish artists and an impressive number of Poland’s highly influential representatives in the music industry. While providing a great networking experience for those seeking to step up their musical careers, it comes as no surprise that thousands of people frequent the various concerts and venues showcasing Poland’s cream-of-the-crop musical talents. This year’s lineup includes Kortez, Pro8l3m, Otsochodzi, Bokka, Leepeck, and many other artists you may or may not (yet) know.QG/H‑7, Plac Wolności. Pass ticket for 3 days 95110zł, www.spring-break.pl.

22 Poznań In Your Pocket

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What’s On 20.04, 21.04 19:00 » ANNA KARENINA

Leo Tolstoy convincing and deeply psychological portrait of a woman who longs for passion in a society regulated by conventions was turned into a ballet by Russian composer and pianist Rodion Shchedrin in 1971. The vastly impressive score mirrors the wealth of emotional and psychological undertones of the characters’ feelings and passions. The choreography rests with the Grand Theatre’s ballet director, Tomasz Kajdański, who specialises in teaching acting to dancers, as well as in combining the classical and modern schools of movement.QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, Tickets 12-130zł available at www.opera.poznan.pl or in box office (Mon – Sat, 1 p.m – 7 p.m, Sundays and holidays: 4 p.m – 6 p.m), www. opera.poznan.pl.

22.04, 24.04 19:00 » MUSSORGSKY’S BORIS GODUNOV

This musical tale of 16th to 17th-century Russia tackles the themes of sin, guilt, crime, and atonement in the context of Eastern Orthodox culture and faith. Modest Mussorgsky’s masterpiece (and his only finished opera) will be performed in the original Russian with Polish supertitles, so read up about the work beforehand.QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, www. opera.poznan.pl.

What’s going on? facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket 19.05 - 20.05 » AIR SHOW

Everyone loves them a good air show. It’s like a dance routine performed by aeroplanes in the sky! Last year, over 40,000 people enjoyed the various attractions put on by the Poznań Air Show, which included a stationery exhibition with helicopters, gliders, cargo planes, and even supersonic aircraft—not to mention the various choreographed in-the-air portion, performed by worldclass pilots. This year promises to be no different, with over 10 hours of shows to keep you entertained and dozens of airships to keep you curious.QPoznań Ławica Airport, ul. Bukowska 285 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 43, www.poznanairshow.pl.

19.05 » NIGHT OF MUSEUMS

The first Night of Museums took place in Berlin in 1997, and the concept spread through Europe like wildfire: currently over 120 major European cities (and many minor ones) organise their own museum nights. It’s a pretty big deal, with thousands of people heading out to take part and visit museums big or small. If you’re into this kind of stuff, keep in mind that Kraków is organising the event a night early, giving you a chance to swing by both cities (they’re certainly both worth it). Follow facebook to find more attraction during Night of Museums in Poznan.

QAdmission free. iyp.me/polandblog

March – June 2018

23

What’s On 27.05, 29.05 18:00 » CARMEN

One of the absolute must-sees of the operatic world, Georges Bizet’s exotic and once-controversial Carmen is worth seeing anywhere, anytime. Denis Krief’s version, although bereft of classic costumes and set design, remains a universal tale of unchanging human passions. Performed in the original French with Polish supertitles.QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, Tickets 12130zł available at www.opera.poznan.pl or in box office (Mon – Sat, 1 p.m – 7 p.m, Sundays and holidays: 4 p.m – 6 p.m), www.opera.poznan.pl.

31.05 20:00 » ANIA DĄBROWSKA: THE BEST OF

Dąbrowska is quite the favourite when it comes to Poland’s pop music scene. All 6 of her studio-released albums have gone platinum, and she’s managed to accumulate an impressive amount of awards and nominations throughout her musical career. So, we can safely say that the music industry and its many listeners have quite the affinity for her and her style—and that should mean there’s certainly no shortage of material for a “Best Of” album.QTickets 79-129zł available at www. eventim.pl.

02.06 19:00, 03.06 18:00, 05.06 19:00 » STRAUSS’ THE BAT (DIE FLEDERMAUS)

Operetta gem and famous masterpiece by the one and only “Waltz King” Johann Strauss II has been performed thousands of times worldwide. With extravagant costumes and too many plot twists to count, The Bat is a must-see, presenting a scintillating look into the inner workings of the aristocratic elite and the upper-middle class. Note this rendition is performed in Polish, with German surtitles.

QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, www.opera.poznan.pl.

07.06 - 10.06 » ETHNO PORT FESTIVAL

We’re always excited when Ethno Port rolls around, and you should be, too. Featuring music from around the world (and we mean a legitimately diverse selection), this music festival crosses all sorts of boundaries into visual arts, literature, theatre, dance, and cinema. In previous years, Ethno Port has hosted artists from Mali, Hungary, Norway, Ukraine, Maroko, Columbia, India, Egypt, Spain, France, Romania, New Guinea and Cape Verde, among many others. This year, the festival will be inaugurated with a concert titled “Conversation(s),” featuring A Filetta, an all-male singing group from Corsica and Fadia Tomb El-Hage from Lebanon.QF‑7, ZAMEK Culture Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, Ticket prices undecided at press time, www.ethnoport.pl.

15.06 - 24.06 » MALTA FESTIVAL

The biggest summer highlight on the city’s cultural calendar, Malta has been something of a Poznań institution since its original conception back in 1991 as the International Theatre Festival. In the past the festival has seen performances by Nine Inch Nails, Goran Bregovic,

24 Poznań In Your Pocket

iyp.me/poznan

What’s On Jan Kaczmarek, Elvis Costello, Sinead O’Connor, and the Buena Vista Social Club. Strangely, however, the musical focus is something of a recent trend. When it started, the festival focused on theatre alone, and was promoted as the Polish version of the Edinburgh Festival – full of fringe acts performing abstract plays. Fortunately, and in spite of the growing pull towards the mainstream, alternative theatre still plays a huge part in the Malta Festival. On top of that, there’ll be plenty of film screenings, workshops, and exhibitions at venues across town.QAdmission free, www.malta-festival.pl.

17.06 18:00, 19.06 19:00, 21.06 19:00, 23.06 19:00 » DONIZETTI’S ELIXIR OF LOVE

For a long time, he wanted her. Then, finally, she wanted him. Was it a magical love potion or perhaps a sizeable inheritance that did the trick? With everything you’d want in a love story: unsure motives, jealousy, indifference, despair, euphoria, and of course, a happy ending—there’s no wonder The Elixir of Love is on the list of the most-performed operas worldwide.QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, www.opera.poznan.pl.

06.07 - 12.07 » ANIMATOR 2018: INTERNATIONAL ANIMATED FILM FESTIVAL

Animator is a pretty big deal: it’s one of three Oscarqualifying festivals in Poland. (And to answer your next question, the other two are the Warsaw Film Festival and the Krakow Film Festival). Each year, over 300 films are screened as part of the festival, accompanied by an extensively built-out programme of workshops, lectures, performances, live concerts, exhibitions, and meetings with filmmakers. What sets this festival apart is the special attention placed on the relationship between animation and music in film; evidenced by special screenings accompanied by live music. Of course, there’s no lack of premieres, retrospectives, and thematic screenings, as well as a special portion of the programme dedicated to kids.

Qwww.animator-festival.com.

JUNE 7-10 2018 POZNAŃ

13.07 - 15.07 » JAROCIN FESTIVAL

Referred to as the Polish Woodstock, the Jarocin Festival has been running since the 70s and was once considered one of the biggest and most important rock music festivals in Europe. It enjoyed a particular level of popularity in the 80s, probably because it provided temporary “relief” from the drab realities of communist Poland, which didn’t really allow for that kind of music on main (read: any) media channels. Ironically (or perhaps not so much) after the fall of communism in Poland, the Jarocin Festival also lost popularity and was even suspended for a few years, following out-of-control riots and mosh pits that were just a tad too aggressive. Since then, it has been revived and is known to deliver a significant amount of alternative music, attract a sizeable crowd and a solid lineup. Tent not included.QOne day tickets 90zł, Pass ticket from 160zł, www.jarocinfestiwal.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

ethnoport.pl March – June 2018

25

Cafés

Buckwheat crêpes at Petit Paris.

CAFE LA RUINA Completely unique and infused with the owners’ love for travel, food, and coffee, Cafe La Ruina and neighbouring Raj (which serves more substantial meals) are a major draw in this part of town. Both the quirky, warm decor and the friendly atmosphere just can’t be beaten.QL‑6, ul. Śródka 3, tel. (+48) 666 15 25 55. Open 11:00 - 21:00. T­6­ U­S­W CAFE STRAGAN Obnoxious in principle, but perfectly warm and inviting in actuality, Stragan adheres to some stringent self-imposed rules, including a non-negotiable no-americano policy (they also refuse to make scrambled eggs). Instead, they’re committed to serving top-notch alternatively-brewed coffee, using all the new-fangled (or just currently trendy) methods like dripbrewing, aeropress, Chemex, and siphon; boxes of equipment are displayed on the back wall and available for sale, as are coffee beans. The dedication shows: their coffee was among the best we’ve tasted, so give it a go if you’re a caffeine enthusiast. Light breakfast is served as well.QG‑7, ul. Franciszka Ratajczaka 31, tel. (+48) 789 23 39 65, www.craftcoffee.pl. Open 08:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. T­6­U­B­S­W COCORICO Couples wallow under starlight in a backyard that’s potted with plants and almost grotto-like in magic (they’ve even won an award for the space, which is closed in winter). There’s no doubt about it, it’s a garden of memories. If the sun falls out of the sky seek shelter inside where a topsy-turvy interior comes sprinkled with chintz. Recently expanded to include a restaurant in an adjacent room.QI‑7, ul. Świętosławska 9, tel. (+48) 61 852 95 29, www.cocorico.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. T­6­U­B­S­W 26 Poznań In Your Pocket

NEW INNA PIEKARNIA The ‘Different Bakery’ indeed isn’t your run-of-the-mill bread and pączki shop. Though the space certainly could have been furnished in a more effective way - it reads a bit sparse and unfinished as is, though the rainforest-theme back wall is insta-worthy - the buttery croissants, soft-butcrunchy rolls, and scrumptious desserts are all divine, and the coffee is great as well. Unfortunately breakfast options are sorely lacking, with usually just one type of pre-made sandwich on offer (albeit a very very good one). Hopefully this will get remedied soon, as Inna has serious brunch potential.QG‑7, ul. Ratajczaka 39, tel. (+48) 724 01 94 94. Open 08:30 - 19:00. Closed Sun. T­6­U­B­S­W MINISTER CAFE Ministerstwo Browaru has earned itself quite a reputation and is the perfect pub to find a healthy mixture of expats, business types, and tourists enjoying one of the best selection of beers in Poz. But its sister venue - Minister CAFE - has also earned a faithful following and it’s easy enough to see why. The self-professed ‘cafe for those who like beer’ offers a trendy, laid-back interior (white tiles, wood, stainless steel) and a creative menu of cake and beer snacks that will leave you watching your waistline.QG‑8, ul. Ratajczaka 34 (1st floor), tel. (+48) 601 53 37 47. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. B­S­W PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIE A prime location on the ground floor of Poznań’s bustling Stary Browar shopping complex means that this cafe/ boulangerie is never short of customers looking to take a break from their latest spending spree. The interior is smart but informal, and the friendly staff busy themselves serving iyp.me/poznan

Cafés up everything from fresh coffees and teas to crepes, tarts, pastries, and freshly-baked French bread. For those looking for something a little more substantial there’s an excellent breakfast selection, daily soups, and a range of lunches to line your stomach before sampling one of their wines. Bon appétit!QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

U­S­W PIJALNIA CZEKOLADY E.WEDEL STARY RYNEK This cosy chocolate lounge offers a superb collection of confectionery courtesy of Wedel - Poland’s best-loved brand.

Find chocolates, cakes, and pralines of every description, plus rich hot chocolate drinks you can practically stand a spoon up in - all of it every bit as sweet and delightful as it sounds. A perfect place to spoil your sweetheart or reward the kids.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 92, tel. (+48) 665 65 10 18, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. T­6­B­S­W PTASIE RADIO Named after “The Bird Radio,” a famous children’s poem by Julian Tuwim, this rustic cafe really commits to the theme with subtle murals, vintage bird cages, and bird-shaped figurines. The large selection of unique, seasonal hot and cold drinks (lemonades, hot chocolates, smoothies, coffees, and the like) might be the primary draw, but it’s not all Ptasie Radio also offers breakfasts (served until noon), lunches, and delicious chocolate cake.QF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 74/3, tel. (+48) 61 853 64 51, www.ptasieradio.pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. T­6­ S­W RÓŻOVE Walking through the door of this establishment is like stepping into a close friend’s super trendy kitchen, except the friend is an insane baker with a glass case full of glorious fresh cakes. Featuring an odd but inviting open layout, friendly and easygoing staff, and a pink theme that stays strictly within the limits of good taste at all times, Róźove is part cafe, part trinket shop, and all cosy hang-out.QI‑7, ul. Wodna 23, tel. (+48) 725 01 00 77, www.rozove.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.

6­U­S­W ZEMSTA ANARCHIST BOOKSHOP & CLUB Get to know the Anarchists - a group that is perhaps more bookish, organised, and vegan than you imagined. As far from a shady, rambunctious squat as you can get, at first glance this place might look like an ordinary (vegan) lunch bar, cafe, and bookstore well-stocked with high-quality journalism and travel writing, but walk up to the counter and you will find pamphlets attempting to convince casual picker-uppers that in their heart of hearts they’re anarchists too. Strike up a conversation with one of the patrons or pop in for an anarchist event to better appreciate what an unlikely outlet this movement has found here.QF‑7, ul.

Fredry 5/3A, tel. (+48) 61 823 25 63, www.zemsta.org.

Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. 6­N­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

BREAKFAST 239 Cosy breakfast spots abound in this city, and 239 is one of the best - a warm industrial-chic hideaway sharing space with an architectural design studio and serving up an all-vegetarian array of morning porridge, bagles, omelettes, and other seasonallychanging options. The coffee is splendid and a daily special lunch is served as well; the one drawback is the walk needed to get here from the city centre, but use this as your opportunity to explore Poznań’s lesser-known Łazarz district. Heartily recommended.

QA‑11, ul. Sczanieckiej 10/2, tel. (+48) 665 11 77 03. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:30. (1518zł). T­6­S­W BAGELS & FRIENDS A smart, airy eatery located inside a small shopping arcade on the City Park complex just west of the centre. While the complex is built around a hotel, offices and apartments, it is likely that it will be its eateries that will make its name. Bagels & Friends maintains the high standard with a menu of bagel sandwiches, soups, and hearty lunches. A wide range of teas and coffees - served in very generously-sized mugs - are also on offer, with the 08:00 workday opening time meaning you can start your day the NY way.QA‑10, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26, tel. (+48) 61 222 39 40, www.bagelsandfriends.pl. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (1449zł). T­6­U­S­W PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIE A perfect breakfast option, where the most important meal of the day is served all day.

Choose from French classics like croque madame, crepes, croissant sandwiches, tartines and more all made from authentic French ingredients, and delicious fresh bread that is baked on-site.QH‑9, ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. (1325zł). U­S­W PROJEKT KUCHNIA Combine this with Petit Paris and apparently Stary Browar is the place in Poznań to start the day. Breakfast options here are plentiful, healthy and eco-minded in terms of the ingredients - eggs come from free range chickens, rice, almond and soy milk are available, as is fresh-squeezed orange juice. Choose from omelettes, scrambled eggs, yoghurt with granola, porridge, and more, including some vegan, gluten-free, and dairyfree options.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 606 99 29 99, www.projektkuchnia.pl.

Breakfast served 09:00 - 12:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00.

(13-26zł). T­U­S­W March – June 2018

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Restaurants

Springtime at BulwaR (p.39).

Poznań might have a reputation as an international centre of commerce, but its restaurant scene has only recently started taking off, with a scattering of world-class restaurants and an increasing number of good ethnic options. While In Your Pocket once listed every venue in the city, the explosion of the market and its sheer redundancy now makes that pursuit impossible. Our print guide carries a wide selection of what we feel are Poznań’s most noteworthy restaurants, however there are many more listed on our website (poznan.inyourpocket.com) where we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the places you’ve visited.

All our reviews are updated regularly, completely subjective and unsolicited. The figures we quote in brackets represent the cheapest and costliest main courses on the menu. The opening hours are verified as we send this guide off to the printer, but keep in mind that they’re subject to change.

Where the venue is not on our map we have included the district where it is located in brackets. Below is a selection of recommendations depending on what you may be looking for.

SPLURGE Any ‘best of’ list in Poznań is invariably going to see a slew of nominations for Blow Up Hall 5050 (p.32), where you’ll find very modern versions of Polish cooking in an impossibly cutting edge neo-industrial setting. For upmarket close to the market square, try BulwaR (p.39) or Ratuszova (p.41). For something out of the centre head to the daringly modern SPOT. (p.35).

28 Poznań In Your Pocket

COUPLES Restauracja MUGA (p.35), and its attached Casa De Vinos wine bar (p.48), is the perfect place to impress your date, while Figaro (p.37) is so over-the-top you half expect to be served by Cupid himself. For something completely different, think of all the naughty things you can do under the table in the pitch black of Dark Restaurant (p.35).

POLISH By popular vote, the market square’s Ratuszova (p.41) is the best Polish food you’ll find in Poznań, and served in one of the most elegant interiors you’ve ever eaten in. In contrast, Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem (p.40) and Wiejskie Jadło (p.41) do traditional interpretations of Polish food in rustic environs, while the hip Kuchnia Wandy (p.40) and Na Winklu (p.40) prefer a more contemporary twist.

QUICK EATS For a speedy but tasty meal that will leave you with more time for sightseeing, try the curries at Thai Fast Wok (p.42), pho at PHOBAR (p.30), ramen at Ramen-Ya (p.38) or our our other suggestions listed on p.42.

SPECIAL DIET Our Vegetarian listings are on p.44, but you’ll also find tasty vegan and gluten-free dishes in Shivaz (p.31), Projekt Kuchnia (p.34) and SPOT. (p.35). If it’s Polish food you’re after, Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem (p.40) will adapt any of their dishes exactly to your dietary needs and desires. iyp.me/poznan

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY G No smoking

T Child-friendly

6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

S Take away

U Facilities for the disabled

V Home delivery

X Smoking room available

E Live music

W Wi-fi connection

Modern Polish Cuisine

B Outside seating

AMERICAN SOMEPLACE ELSE Some baulk at the prices, but there’s no escaping that Someplace Else is the full monty – here’s a place that gets both food and drink completely right, with a largely American menu of burgers and steaks; sometimes that’s just what you need. The diner design is straight out of roadtrip USA, and a great spot for ties-off, after-office chow, and beers. With 9 TVs, this is also one of your best bets for catching that match - be it European or American.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (21-265zł). T­Y­U­W

Stary Rynek 37, Poznań /Opposite The Town Hall/ Phone: +48 533 181 171 www.bulwarrestauracja.pl /bulwarrestauracja/

WYCZESANE PORKI Pulled pork is a strange and novel concept in Poland, but as a proper, filling drunk food it has been gaining popularity in Poz. Wyczesane Porki aren’t actually their own separate locale - they function as an integral part of Mo.Bar, which specialises in craft beer. And let us tell you, a cold pint and one of these bad boys - which come as burgertype sandwiches in versions such as mustard&onion, chorizo, and camembert - go down great together.QI‑6, Wroniecka 18, www.mobar-wyczesane-porki.business. site. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri 13:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. (16-56zł). T­6­ V­B­S

ASIAN NEW MEH As far as we’re concerned, this place is anything but meh.

Fusing hipster Euro decor with popular Asian dishes like ramen, udon, fried noodles, fried rice, and matcha desserts, Meh attracts a hip crowd and features a beautiful summer garden.QI‑7, ul. Woźna 17, tel. (+48) 574 61 39 76. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.

(24-35zł). T­6­B­S

/polandinyourpocket iyp.me/polandblog

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Restaurants PHOBAR More like Berlin in Poznań rather than Hanoi in Poznań, and the local cool kids aren’t complaining. Big bowls of beautiful pho bo, pho bo vien, and a vegan alternative are served amid loud dubstep to hip youth seated at communal tables; the exposed-brick interior and party garlands complete the stylish atmosphere. The broth might not be the most flavourful, but a splash of sriracha and fish sauce from strategically placed bottles resolve the issue to an extent. Those pining for other Vietnamese specialties can enjoy nem rolls, banh mi, bun cha, and splendid coffee with condensed milk.QB‑6, ul. Wawrzyniaka 19, tel. (+48) 501 97 39 74. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 21:00. (16-25zł). S­W RAJ Perhaps the most uniquely decorated venue in town, Raj (Paradise) is a cross between a Southeast Asian street eatery, grandma’s kitchen, hipster hang-out, and what you do to your room after coming home with one too many travel souvenirs - and it’s absolutely delightful. The voyage-inspired menu leans Asian and is printed out on postcards, and those who haven’t managed to get a table can munch away in the back-room cinema, which provides both additional seating and the occasional film screening.

Do keep in mind that you might have to grab a server by the ankle to get their attention; the place gets busy.

Recommended.QL‑6, ul. Śródka 3, tel. (+48) 666 15 25 55. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (25-39zł). T­6­U­S­W

FUSION DRUKARNIA SKŁAD WINA & CHLEBA POZNAŃ Despite being within spitting distance of the Rynek, Podgórna isn’t the most fashionable street in Poznań, so we were pleasantly surprised to discover this trendy eatery and cafe. The smell of freshly baked bread wafts through the minimal-chic interior, and the menu comprises not only a range of sandwiches, soups, and appetisers to complement the bakery, but also a full card of rich and colourful fusion creations to complement the upmarket tastes of the wine list. Everything from the kitchen looks like it could be featured in a food art magazine (in fact they sometimes offer workshops on food photography), and overall Drukarnia is evidence of just how far the city’s culinary scene has come on in the past few years. Pop in for a delicious 12-19zł breakfast Mon-Fri between 7:00 and 12:00, weekends 10:00-13:00. New artwork (available for purchase) appears on the walls every month or so.QH‑7, ul. Podgórna 6, tel. (+48) 61 850 14 20, www. winoichleb.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (15-79zł).

T­6­U­B­S­W

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 30 Poznań In Your Pocket

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Restaurants FUSION RESTAURANT Top class dining in the Sheraton’s showpiece restaurant.

Chic and sexy: this is designer dining the way it’s meant to be with inventive dishes like Thai-style noodles appearing from out of the open kitchen. Floor-to-ceiling windows allow for plenty of light, as well as views of the proletariat scurrying to work. Also of interest is their intimate Wine Tower, which can be booked in advance for up to 4 people to enjoy a menu created with the chef and over 60 types of wine.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.fusion-poznan.pl. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00; Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 13:00 17:00. (29-130zł). T­Y­U­W

INDIAN NEW HATTI Our hopes were not high for this establishment - good Indian is still fairly difficult to come by in Poland - but we were pleasantly surprised as the appetiser papadums with a selection of chutneys came out of the kitchen, followed by some very decent tikka masalas and mango lassis.

From the ornate and slightly musty decor to the extensive selection of dishes, this is a familiar, Westernised version of the subcontinental eating experience such as you’ll find in the UK or US, and we goras are happy. Looking forward to coming back whenever the pakora cravings kick back in.QI‑7, ul. Woźna 13, tel. (+48) 732 71 00 00, www.hatti. pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (24-45zł). 6­U­V­B­S­W SHIVAZ Regular readers of our Poznań guide will know that the city has had some issues with ‘ethnic’ food over the years, none so much as Indian. Not here though. If it’s Indian you want then this is the recommended place in this city, though because of the paucity of the competition that’s not the plaudit it might sound. 19/24zł lunches from 12:00 till 15:30 Tue-Fri include both a vegetarian and meat option. Definitely try their mango lassi - a small cup costs only 5zł.QF‑7, ul. Mielżyńskiego 16/3A (entrance from ul. 27 Grudnia), tel. (+48) 61 855 75 57, www. restauracjaindyjskashivaz.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (24-34zł). V­S­W TAJ INDIA For those staying in the centre, it’s easy to overlook Taj India due to its location up at Lake Malta. But if a walk around Malta is on your to-do list then you could do a lot worse than pop in for a bite to eat. Granted, from the outside it doesn’t look like much, but the inside decor is authentic without being too over the top and the staff are extremely helpful. The menu provides all you’d expect from an Indian restaurant, including chicken vindaloo, lamb boti, a good selection of veggie options, and all the extras - naans, beers, poppadoms, and the like - required to supplement the meal.Qul. Wiankowa 3, tel. (+48) 61 876 62 49, www.tajindia.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (2346zł). T­U­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

POLISH FOOD

Pierogi

Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the world of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the following to the test: Bigos: Also known as Hunter’s Stew. Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty dish, it’s usually made using meat, cabbage, onions, sauerkraut and whatever else is around, and then left to simmer for a few days.

If you have second helpings then consider yourself a Pole by default.

Gołąbki: Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served with a tomato or mushroom sauce.

Golonka: Pork knuckle, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish delicacy, the meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer.

Go caveman.

Kiełbasa: Sausages, and in Polish shops you’ll find an enormous variety, made from everything from turkey to bison.

Pierogi: Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, or fruit, though if you nose around you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are served almost everywhere.

Placki: These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to Jewish latkes and best enjoyed with goulash on top (placki po Węgiersku). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

Zupa (Soup): Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with potatoes or mini-pierogi floating in it, or with a croquette for dunking, but we prefer to order it ‘solo’ in a mug for drinking. Żurek is a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl.

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Restaurants INTERNATIONAL BIERHALLE This familiar tourist-friendly franchise lives up to its name, bringing its Oktoberfest atmosphere to Poznań’s Posnania Shopping Centre. At Bierhalle they brew their own, offering 3 different ales most commonly ordered by the litre, but you can also go gorilla with a 5l barrel. The beer-friendly franchise menu consists of German bratwurst, ribs, pork knuckle, and other meaty feasts with fries, the busty servers in faux-folk costumes look like they’ve just finished milking the cows, and TVs stream sports to complete the lads magnet appeal.QM‑10, ul. Pleszewska 1 (Posnania), tel. (+48) 508 80 07 55, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 10:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (10-60zł).

T­6­B­S­W

PASSION FOR FOOD Wodna 3/4, 61-781 Poznań Phone +48 61 852 49 95 www.lavenda-cafelunch.pl

DECODING THE MENU Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego!

(Enjoy your meal!) śniadania breakfast zupa soup przystawki appetisers dania główne main dishes dodatki side dishes ziemniaki potatoes kapusta cabbage ser cheese chleb bread warzywa vegetables owoce fruit mięso meat kurczak chicken wieprzowina pork wołowina beef ryba fish deser dessert ciasto cake lody ice cream napoje drinks kawa coffee piwo beer 32 Poznań In Your Pocket

BLOW UP HALL 5050 Blow Up 5050 is a combination of gastronomy and art that will blow your socks off. The name is a combination of the 1966 Antonioni thriller combined with the owner’s philosophy of making all her enterprises 50% art and 50% business. Complementing the award winning hotel and bar is the restaurant, where prices are at the very top end of the Poznań market, as is the quality. The seasonal cuisine - crafted by Top Chef Poland winner Tomasz Purol - is superb, and the surroundings will leave you feeling you’ve become part of a living art exhibition, making it a truly unique experience in Poland, and perhaps even Europe.

QG‑9, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 90, www. blowuphall5050.com. Open 14:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (20-130zł). T­U­W BO.POZNAN The perfect brunch/coffee+newspaper spot, Bo.Poznan is frequented by couples in ironic t-shirts, three-generation families out for a festive breakfast, and caffeine-guzzling laptoppers alike. Turning a below-street-level location into a cosy advantage, Bo. not only is homey enough that you might keep postponing your day’s activities to sit a while longer, they also serve ample portions of early- and midday food for very reasonable prices. Recommended.QF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 84, tel. (+48) 61 226 78 65. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 19:00, Sun 09:30 - 18:30. (23-33zł).

T­Y­6­S­W BROVARIA Go formal and pick the right-hand room for a smoothly subdued dining area or else do as the rank-and-file and head either to the brewing hall out back, the bar to the side, or the al fresco terrace. Brovaria has something for everyone, with the premium price reserved for beef tenderloin with green pepper sauce. Or consider tucking into the beer feast – essentially a huge platter piled inches high with a mix of seafood and meat. Not for nothing has Brovaria been crowned king of the expatriate scene.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. (24-67zł). T­S­W iyp.me/poznan

Restaurants CONCORDIA TASTE A long-standing editorial favourite, thanks to their willingness to buck trends and try something different.

The design is what you would call post-industrial and the clientele sharp-dressed and out to impress. The food comes beautifully presented by efficient staff and the menu features some truly mouth-watering options. There’s now a live cooking station and Family Sundays with a supervised play area and kids’ workshops, so check out what’s on beforehand.QD‑7, ul. Zwierzyniecka 3, tel. (+48) 61 667 44 19, www.concordiataste.pl. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:30 - 22:00, Sun 09:30 - 20:00. (27-89zł). T­U­B­ S­W DĄBROWSKIEGO 42 Climb up the steps and enter what is one of the city’s more innovative and fresh-looking restaurants. The light and airy wood-filled rooms make it a great place to drool over the menu (while we weren’t able to sample everything this time, the pork tenderloin with chanterelle mushroom sauce has certainly given us an excuse to return) and a great little kids area allows you to enjoy your meal in peace.

QC‑6, ul. Dąbrowskiego 42 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 797 99 79 95, www.dabrowskiego42.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. (18-59zł). T­6­B­S­W FLAVORIA Tucked away deep inside the IBB Andersia Hotel, Flavoria isn’t the type of place you just stumble across by accident.

But those willing to sniff it out will find a smart, modern restaurant with a good mixture of international cuisine ranging from standard breakfast buffets (06:30 - 11:00 daily) to more sophisticated evening dishes like grilled duck with sweet potato puree or tiger prawn risotto. With daylight streaming through the large windows by day and dim candlelight during dinner, Flavoria is one of the city’s more formal restaurants, ideal for business lunches and other such upmarket eating occasions.QG‑9, Pl. Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 667 80 81, www. andersiahotel.pl. Open 06:30 - 11:00 for breakfast, 13:00 - 18:00 for lunch, 18:00 - 23:00 for dinner. (30-120zł).

T­Y­W KRAFT Despite the name, food rather than craft beer is the focus here, so start your microbrew adventure by lining your stomach with an assortment of fairly priced meat and fish dishes. Trust us, it’s fancier and more delicious than it sounds; the decked-out burger-style sandwiches especially have earned KRAFT a loyal customer base. 20zł lunch is served Monday to Friday from 12:00 until 16:00.QD‑6, ul.

Juliusza Słowackiego 27, tel. (+48) 601 45 14 24. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. (25-45zl). T­S­W

Chef Tomasz Purol, the winner of the fifth edition of Top Chef.

The restaurant specialises in European cuisine combined with Polish tradition.

Expect an original menu featuring carefully selected fresh ingredients and a unique combination of flavours.

Blow Up Hall Restaurant Kościuszki 42; 61-891 Poznań Phone +48 61 657 99 90 Manager Restauracji Marcin Bagrowski Mob. 519 308 299 www.blowuphall5050.com

Read more reviews online: poznan.inyourpocket.com iyp.me/polandblog

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Restaurants LAVENDA GASTRO & CAFE There are a slew of cosy little cafes dotted around the back streets of Stary Rynek, and competition is indeed tough; Lavenda slots right in there with the very best of them, though. A relaxed atmosphere and a great array of hot drinks, wines, and light food make this the perfect place to share a lunchtime coffee or to meet for an intimate first date. Breakfast is served daily between 08:00 and 12:00 (13:00 on the weekends) and lunchtime goes from 12:30 until 16:00.QI‑7, ul. Wodna 3/4, tel. (+48) 61 852 49 95, www.lavenda-cafelunch.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. (14-34zł). T­6­S­W NEW OŚLA ŁAWKA Gourmet food in a confusing (but strangely tasteful) interior punctuated by vintage school supplies and teaching aids, including an anatomical model, abacus, blackboard, and world map. Drinks come in lab beakers, the complimentary bread has to be fished out of a brown paper bag, and the menu changes daily according to the whimsy of the devilishly talented chef. We chanced on the cauliflower with brown butter and sang its praises for a week.QG‑8, ul. Stanisława Taczaka 23, tel. (+48) 535 46 64 77. Open 16:00 - 21:00, Fri 16:00 - 21:30, Sat 13:00 - 21:30, Sun 13:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. (36-72zł). T­6­B­S­W POD PRĘGIERZEM Some of the best buildings on Poznań’s Old Market Square are the old Merchant Houses and that’s exactly where you’ll find Pod Pręgierzem. For years this was Post Office Cafe, but a recent transformation has seen it aim towards those looking to grab a quick bite rather than a cup of coffee. The menu boasts plenty of breakfast options (from ‘continental’ to ‘full English’) and traditional Poznań meals like ham hock and duck. Soft music, cheery staff, and walls decked out in photos paying homage to some of the city’s finest buildings make this a fine choice. There’s even a kid’s play area downstairs which kept us entertained while we were waiting for our soup.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 25/29, tel. (+48) 61 855 00 06, www.podpregierzem.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (20-69zł). T­6­B­S­W PROJEKT KUCHNIA Poznań’s culinary scene has come on leaps and bounds over the last couple of years and nowhere is it more evident than here. Located in the heart of the city’s bustling Stary Browar shopping centre, Projekt Kuchnia provides a sleek, sexy environment in which to enjoy some of the finest food around town. Oh, and did we mention that much of it is organic, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, or dairy-free?

Though the menu doesn’t discriminate against carnivores by any stretch, those on a special diet will find their ShangriLa here, and their foodie friends will be glad they tagged along. The top quality extends from the breakfast menu to the wine list, and if you’re browsing around the Old Brewery, you can stop your search for the best place to eat - this is it.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 606 99 29 99, www.projektkuchnia.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (35-70zł). T­U­S­W 34 Poznań In Your Pocket

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Restaurants RESTAURACJA MUGA Located right next door to Casa de Vinos wine bar (just step through the glass door), MUGA has managed to serve up a perfect mixture of fine European food, great service, and excellent wine. The seasonal menu rivals anything else we’ve sampled and the bright, well-lit interior makes for a warm and inviting stay. A perfect spot for courting couples, business deals, and those looking to impress; first-daters should head to the far corner where intimacy is almost encouraged.QH‑8, ul. Krysiewicza 5, tel. (+48) 61 855 10 35, www.restauracjamuga.pl. Open 17:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (60-89zł). T­W RESTAURACJA PATIO PROVENCE Situated within spitting distance of the main square, this is one of Poznań’s hidden treasures. The main dining room is much like that of any restaurant, but head through the back and you find yourself in a small, beautifully-lit covered courtyard which will have you kneeling down on one knee and proposing to your darling within minutes. With rabbit, duck, and beef tartare on the menu, there are plenty of high-brow choices, but leave some space for wine as well.

An absolute diamond, you won’t want to go anywhere after your meal.QI‑7, Pl. Kolegiacki 5 (Hotel Kolegiacki), tel. (+48) 61 855 05 05, www.patioprovence.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (22-70zł). T­U­B­W SPOT. Fashion, design, and cuisine collide at SPOT, a unique shopping complex set inside the beautifully restored late 19th-century Wilda power station, which is surrounded by a lovely green park. Home to several shops and services, it all serves as mere garnish for the excellent restaurant, which should be your main motivation for visiting. Sporting a smart post-industrial swagger with monochrome colours, exposed bricks, and retro kitsch decor, the atmosphere is inspired, and the menu offers sophisticated European cuisine accented by exotic Asian flavours, including vegetarian and gluten-free dishes. With craft beer, a large selection of wines, and their own sommelier, this is Poznań at its cutting edge best.Qul. Dolna Wilda 87, tel. (+48) 61 835 88 40, www.spot.poznan.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

Closed Mon. (37-70zł). T­6­U­B­S­W THE TIME Located in Poznań’s posh Młyńska 12 business centre, the result of the refurbishment of a fin de siècle building designed by architect Oskar Hoffman, The Time meets the standards of its high-profile guests. Perfect for impressing both business partners and dates, they serve a menu of simple yet high-quality dishes including seafood risotto, duck with gnocchi and red cabbage, and chump of lamb with couscous. Over 150 various bottled of wine can be fetched from the cellar by the waiter, and live piano music adds to the ritzy experience on Fridays and Saturdays from 19:00 until 22:00.QG‑6, ul. Młyńska 12, tel. (+48) 61 627 03 07, www.mlynska12.pl/restauracja-the-time. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (35-86zł). T­6­U­E­B­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

RistoRante FigaRo ul. ogrodowa 17, 61-821 Poznań tel. +48 61 856 01 89 www.restauracjafigaro.eu figaro@restauracjafigaro.eu

DARK RESTAURANT “Adventurous” isn’t a word we often like to pair with the word “dining” (after all, that’s how folks on reality TV end up eating spiders), but this place proves to be the exception. As its name implies, Dark Restaurant is devoted to having diners eat their dinner in inky blackness. We’re not talking mood lighting, either; the cavernous room is so dark that the waiters actually wear night vision goggles. The idea behind Dark Restaurant is that by impairing your sense of sight, you enhance your other senses, which makes for a more exciting dining experience. It’s also a great excuse to eat with your hands, because utensils are completely useless without the benefit of eyesight. Each of the menu themes - bizarre food, mood food, and a more standard option - comes with a variety of courses, and you aren’t told what you’re digging into until the meal is over. All these factors add up to a messy and intriguing meal that will have you guessing with every bite. Sure, some of the foods are obvious, but basil ice cream? Oranges with sea salt? Your tongue will undoubtedly be tantalized. Fortunately, your meal ends with a chance to talk with your waiter and the head chef, who delight in making you guess what you ate.

QI‑7, ul. Garbary 48, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 57, www. darkrestaurant.pl. Open 16:00 - 21:30, Sun 16:00 20:00. (90-190zł). 6­W March – June 2018

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Restaurants VINE BRIDGE The previous “smallest restaurant in Poland” has expanded due to popular demand, but they still serve intriguing daily-special dishes like flax seed pancakes and “meat in clay,” which are meant to echo the cuisine of centuries-ago Ostrówek, where the restaurant is located. You’ll also notice it’s one of your only eating options in the area around Ostrów Tumski. The brainchild of the Dark Restaurant folks, it’s unlikely you will leave unsatisfied, and the dishes themselves will be worthy of photographs.QL‑6, ul.

Ostrówek 6, tel. (+48) 61 875 09 34, www.vinebridge.pl.

Open 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.

Closed Mon, Tue. (20-52zł). T­6­B­S­W WERANDA LUNCH & WINE Weranda is a restaurant worthy of its setting at the confluence of the old and new portions of the vast Stary Browar shopping centre, with an open two-story skylit space (what the hell are those colourful things hanging from the ceiling?) that is breathtaking even in a building that’s known for its architecture. If upscale mall dining exists then Weranda has perfected it, with a daily lunch menu (27zł from 12:00 till the food runs out) that can include anything from pasta to grilled meat to whatever strikes the chef’s fancy. All of it can be paired with wine, easily making shopping an afterthought.QG‑9, ul.

Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 859 69 69, www. werandafamily.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (30-79zł). T­B­S­W ZIELONA WERANDA Not the easiest place to find despite being only a stone’s throw from the square, which makes its discovery (head into what looks like a shop to find it tucked away at the back) even more of a pleasant surprise. Clearly a labour of love as reflected by beautiful paper decorations set against the mismatch of wooden furnishings, exposed brick, and copious shrubbery.

Spread over a number of small rooms, Zielona Weranda is one of our favourite lunch spots with a tasty, well-prepared range of soups, salads, breakfast sandwiches, and snacks. The tea, coffee, and cake options are so encyclopaedic, the harder aspect of spending time here is deciding what to have. Opening hours may be subject to change.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 851 32 90, www.werandafamily.com. Open 10:00 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (30-49zł). Y­6­B­S­W

ITALIAN BAR A BOO Looking for Poznań’s best pizzeria? Look no further. To be honest, labelling this place a pizzeria is a bit of a cop out as the menu also offers up breakfasts, macaroni dishes, and salads, and the smart, elegant interior rivals some of the city’s better restaurants. A good mixture of wines to order by the glass or bottle and plenty of beers and spirits mean that if you’re coming here to line your stomach, the inevitable ul. Taczaka pub crawl may kick off later than you planned.

QF‑8, ul. Taczaka 11, tel. (+48) 61 883 43 15, www. baraboo.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Mon 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (10-30zł). T­U­S­W 36 Poznań In Your Pocket

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Restaurants FIGARO Romantic repasts and serious business dinners take place amongst these starched tablecloths and vases of flowers.

Prices are steep, but well within the spending power of most Western visitors. Diners can choose from a large list of pastas, beef tenderloin, veal, and an expansive wine list. What Figaro is famous for though is its fresh fish and seafood, which is said to be among the best in the city.

Those wanting to really push the boat out may wish to take advantage of the restaurant’s VIP room, which can be hired out for those extra special occasions. Kitchen closes at 22:00 Mon-Sat, so don’t leave your culinary feast till the last minute.QG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 856 01 89, www.restauracjafigaro.eu. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. (28-85zł). T­6­S­W MOLLINI This charming Italian venture sets itself apart by letting the food speak for itself with simple dishes that will knock you out. We aren’t kidding about the simple – your pasta can be as basic as spaghetti with olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, and parmesan, and in your snobbier moments you might think it’s something you could easily do at home (you can’t).

Even the straightforward grilled veggies seem elevated somehow. An Italian restaurant delightfully free of cliché, but full of flavour. Stop by during lunch (Mon-Fri 12:00 17:00) for some savings on your bill.QG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 34, tel. (+48) 61 852 53 33, www.mollini.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (20-60zł). T­S­W PIANO BAR RESTAURANT & CAFE Attached to the side of the Stary Browar shopping mall, Piano Bar rates as one of the top dining options in Poz. The background aesthetics are fantastic, with a recent NYC-style renovation and striking art exhibitions. Although you’ll find all the expected Italian pasta and Mediterranean dishes, it’s the fish that tends to steal the show here, which is something of a boon in landlocked Poznań.QG‑9, ul.

Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.pianobar.poznan.pl. Open 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (28-120zł). T­Y­U­E­B­ S­W

JAPANESE GOKO RESTAURACJA JAPOŃSKA Goko should shorten their name to Go: it’s good, and that’s all you need know. Since relocating to ul. Pasaż Apollo, Goko has become the one-and-only destination for traditional Japanese meals, serving fresh fish and sushi in stylish surroundings, supplemented by a fantastic seasonal garden. Can’t decide what to order? Discounts apply to various dishes and drinks depending on when you visit - ask the staff for recommendations, then sit back and enjoy Poznań from a slightly different view than you’d get from the main market square.QG‑8, ul. Ratajczaka 18 (Pasaż Apollo), tel. (+48) 61 639 06 39, www.goko. com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (20-90zł).

T­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

Yuzu Roosevelta 22, Poznań +48 502 396 062 March – June 2018

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Restaurants

Korean-Japanese cuisine Circular sushi bar

y Happ

hour

12:00 - 17:00

All week!

sushi Buffet Eat all you want 60zł per person

KURO BY PANAMO The tendency in Poland is for a new cuisine to be launched and then a procession of new restaurants to open all serving pretty much the same ‘fashionable’ cuisine. Here Kuro have taken the cuisine of a few years ago – Sushi – and mixed it with the cuisine of the last year – Thai. The results to be fair are very, very good and the ul. Wodna location means you won’t have to go far to find it. Find both hot and cold Japanese dishes and some very tasty Thai in a handsome room with remarkably friendly people working there.QI‑7, ul. Wodna 8/9, tel. (+48) 61 887 04 30, www.kurosushi.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (22-50zł). T­V­S­W RAMEN-YA This hole-in-the-wall might be tiny, awkwardly furnished, and somewhat rudimentary, but boy, is the ramen good.

After the success of Yetztu on ul. Krysiewicza it looked like Poznań didn’t need any more ramen joints, and yet these boys came along and knocked the ball out of the park again.

The menu consists of shoyu, shio, kimchi, and mazamen ramen (in meaty and vegan versions), plus snacks like bao buns; the cooks know their stuff and food arrives super fast.

While not exactly the place for an extended sit-down, this is one of our favourite spots for a quick bite of something good.QC‑5, ul. Kościelna 4, tel. (+48) 731 09 73 58. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (10-25zł). 6­V­B­S­W YETZTU Ramen, ramen, ramen - the best in Poznań, in fact (though that notion is now being challenged with the arrival of Ramen-Ya in Jeżyce). Decorated with assorted cutsey Japanese paraphernalia - beckoning cats, anime figurines, worried-looking bake-danuki - Yetztu offers several versions of the beloved noodles, including a vegetarian/vegan one. The tiny spot is hugely popular with local hipsters, so reservations are recommended.QH‑8, ul. Bolesława Krysiewicza 6, tel. (+48) 61 840 17 12, www.yetztu.com.

Open 14:00 - 21:00, Fri 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (28-32zł). T­W NEW YUZU Just when you think the sushi market in Poznań is saturated, along comes YuZu with something completely different: Japanese-Peruvian fusion cuisine. Known as Nikkei, this splendid combination of Japanese cooking techniques and fresh Peruvian ingredients originated thanks to the influx of Japanese immigrants to South America in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. At this upscale eatery on the west side of the railroad tracks, you will find futomaki with quinoa, acevichado rolls, and tiradito - a Japanese take on ceviche.QD‑7, ul. Roosevelta 22, tel. (+48) 502 39 60 62. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (15-52zł). 6­U­B­S­W

FREE DELIVERY WITHIN 5 KM FOR ORDERS OVER 100 ZŁ

ul. Kramarska 15, www.zindo.pl reservation (61) 853-01-78 38 Poznań In Your Pocket

ZEN ON Truly foodgasmic udon served with add-ons like panko fried shrimp, skrei cod wrapped in bacon, beef cheeks braised in wine, wand more. Vegetarians need not stay away: kimchi broth is available and comes with grilled iyp.me/poznan

Restaurants tempeh and mirin-marinated mung beans (and a healthy serving of udon, of course). Round your meal out with matcha ice cream and a cup of sencha or kukicha tea. While outside the Old Town, this beautiful space with impeccable service is nevertheless conveniently located for anyone attending a Poznań trade fair or just coming from the train station; and for udon enthusiasts (like us), this short excursion is a must.QD‑7, ul. Zwierzyniecka 3, tel. (+48) 609 11 64 50. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (3146zł). T­6­S­W ZINDO SUSHI KOREAN-JAPANESE RESTAURANT An expansion from their Warsaw and Wrocław operations, Zindo’s modern beige-heavy space still appears to be struggling to attract attention from the folks in Poznań.

An all-you-can-eat sushi buffet keeps the place busy, and provides more of a bang-for-your-buck experience than the pricier dinner menu option - drop in between 12:00 and 17:00 for 60zł/person, and 17:00-22:00 for 70zł/ person. The Korean menu is a standout, and adventurous eaters can indulge in octopus, fried squid, or raw fish with vegetables to test their mettle. More traditional options like kimchi are reliably well done.QI‑7, ul. Kramarska 15, tel. (+48) 61 853 01 78, www.zindo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30.

(30-70zł). T­V­S­W

JEWISH LUDWIKU DO RONDLA Poznań’s classic Jewish restaurant Cymes has morphed into Ludwiku do Rondla (Ludwik to the Pan, a way of saying “make my dinner!”), which means the menu is now a mix of traditional Polish cuisine as well as the consistent Jewish dishes (like herring in marinade and a Jewish caviar) that were the hallmark of Cymes. Note that you will have to stifle a giggle while paging through the English translations of the Jewish dishes as the poultry stomachs brewed in curry have been randomly translated as “goose cunt” - unless something has changed since our last visit.QI‑7, ul.

Woźna 2/3, tel. (+48) 61 851 66 38. Open 13:00 - 22:00.

(14-32zł). T­S

TYPICAL POLISH CUISINE - SLOW FOOD

A kitchen like at mama‘s with recipes like at Granny‘s FR E E LUTEN ALSO GMENU

Poznań, ul Garbary 54 tel.: 061 851 99 70, pod-dzwonkiem@oberza.com.pl www.oberza.com.pl

ul. ul. Wojskowa Wojskowa 4 4 Poznań (next (next to to City City Park) Park) Poznań open: mon-sat mon-sat 12-23 12-23 open:

▪▪

phone: phone: + + 48 48 519 519 376 376 182 182 email: email: sushi@kyokai.pl sushi@kyokai.pl

sun 12-22 12-22 sun ▪▪ www.kyokai.pl www.kyokai.pl

POLISH NEW BULWAR For fine dining on the main square, it’s off to BulwaR, a twolevel establishment situated directly opposite the Town Hall. With two gardens capable of seating 250 diners (!), a lovely 16th-century brick cellar, and a modern ground floor, deciding where to sit is already a challenge, and then comes the menu. Filled with delicacies like basil ravioli with venison marinated in herbs, honey-glazed duck breast with forest fruits, and grilled salmon with candied cherry tomatoes, it is based on regional, seasonal Polish products.

Round off your meal with a bottle of European, New World or Polish wine from a list of over 200.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 37, tel. (+48) 533 18 11 71, www.bulwarrestauracja.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (29-79zł). T­6­B­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

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Restaurants EASTER IN POLAND

Palm Sunday (March 25, 2018) marks the official beginning of Poland’s Easter festivities – perhaps the country’s most sacred holiday. Leading up to the season you will see decorative handmade palms for sale all over Poland. These traditional decorations are made from a variety of dried flowers and plants, and taken to church on Palm Sunday to be blessed before decorating Polish homes until the end of the season.

As a deeply Catholic country, Poland takes its Easter (Wielkanoc) celebrations seriously; throughout the period, the visiting foreigner can expect bars and restaurants to be either empty or closed beginning on Good Friday (March 30, 2018). On Easter Saturday (March 31, 2018) Poles, typically children, bring brightly decorated baskets of food to church to have these blessed as well. These baskets traditionally contain a piece of sausage, bread, egg, poppy-seed cake, some salt, horseradish and a ram made out of dough - each of which has a symbolic meaning, of course. In addition ‘pisanki’ are included - painted boiled eggs which have been prepared in the lead-up to Easter by the whole family.

Rezurekcja (Resurrection), a traditional mass with procession, is held Saturday night or Easter morning depending on parish tradition. On Easter Sunday (April 1, 2018), families gather together to celebrate with Easter breakfast from their Easter baskets, accompanied by żurek (Polish rye soup) and other traditional foods. Each person places a small piece of the blessed food on their plate before exchanging wishes with other members of the family. The symbolic dough ram is placed on the table to symbolise the resurrection of Christ. Things thankfully take on a more lighthearted air on Easter Monday (April 2, 2018). Known as ‘Śmigus Dyngus,’ the day is dominated by public water fights and everyone is given carte blanche to drench anyone they see with water. As a foreigner, you are not exempt from this practice, so move fast if you see someone armed with a water pistol or bucket and a grin. Although it’s never pleasant to have a jug of water thrown over your head, this is an improvement from the past when young people were beaten with sticks from Palm Sunday trees. Apparently either will bring you luck.

40 Poznań In Your Pocket

CHŁOPSKIE JADŁO Anyone who has set foot in Poland before will have most likely eaten in Chłopskie Jadło - a national chain which offers good old Polish grub at a reasonable price. This new Poznań location nails the formula, and trademark touristapproved standards like various types of pierogi, hearty cutlets, and sour rye soup in bread are as good here as you’ll find anywhere. The interior is also refreshingly modern, while retaining some folksy motifs, and a playground for kids makes this a good option for families. As is the case with most Polish restaurants, you’ll be leaving extremely filled with a smile on your face and a willingness to come back.QF‑7, ul. Fredry 12, tel. (+48) 72 510 05 25, www. chlopskiejadlo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. (10-43zł). T­U­B­S­W DYNX Managing to feel upscale nad neighbourhood-y at the same time, Dynx is a new addition to increasingly hip Śródka, the tiny and historical district east of Cathedral Island. Created around a ‘simple plate’ philosophy (good food should be simple), this inviting locale scores high on attention to detail and warm industrial decor. Do keep in mind that opening hours are subject to change.QL‑6, Ostrówek 12, tel. (+48) 61 448 54 28, www.dynxrestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (30-90zł). T­6­U­ B­W KUCHNIA WANDY Finally, a Polish restaurant which does not descend into tourist kitsch or need a thorough dusting. Hip and elegant, Wanda’s Kitchen does meat-heavy traditional cuisine justice with gourmet options including sous vide chicken with pearl barley, roast goose with caramelised root vegetables, and goose pierogi in goat cheese sauce, while also glamming up more questionable dishes like beef tongue. Heartily recommended, though vegetarians will do best to stay far, far away.QF‑7, ul. Święty Marcin 76, tel. (+48) 531 31 83 99, www.kuchniawandy.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Fri 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. (28-59zł). T­6­W NA WINKLU Plebeian boiled pierogi with meat or cheese and potatoes can be had in countless restaurants in Poznań, but Śródka’s Na Winklu (On the Corner) goes beyond, focusing on baked dumplings instead. Hide away in their small but hip interior and sample creations with unorthodox ingredients like dried tomatoes and mozzarella, liver and apple, or Mexican-style ground beef.QL‑6, ul. Śródka 1, tel. (+48) 796 14 50 04. Open 12:00 - 20:20, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (1330zł). T­6­U­S­W OBERŻA POD DZWONKIEM Resembling a traditional mountain lodge, ‘Under the Bell’ is bursting with giant timber beams, beautiful 200-year-old wooden furniture, rusty machinery, old pots and pans, piles of dusty books - even the barstools are fashioned out of saddles. It all contributes to a congenial rustic atmosphere, iyp.me/poznan

Restaurants and while the menu focuses on traditional Polish fare with mouth-watering renditions of classics such as żurek soup, ribs, duck, and pierogi, the philosophy of the kitchen is hardly the throwback that the interior suggests; all dishes are gluten free and vegan options are available.QI‑7, ul.

Garbary 54, tel. (+48) 61 851 99 70, www.oberza.com. pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Mon 16:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (29-59zł). T­6­U­B­S­W OSKOMA Oskoma is the lair of Top Chef Poland finalist Adam Adamczak, who cooks up seasonally-changing, gourmet ‘new Polish’ dishes like breast of guinea fowl in truffle sauce, wild boar cheeks with chestnut cream, venison from local forests, and sea buckthorn tart with tea sorbet. Pair that with a glass of fine red from Oskoma’s extensive wine list and enjoy a refined evening in this modern, understated Jeżyce eatery.QD‑6, ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. (+48) 728 44 21 65, www.oskoma.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 20:00. (30-90zł). T­W POD NIEBIENIEM One of the best options on the Old Town Square (generally not the place to dine if you want to retain your street cred), Pod Niebieniem serves Polish food with a contemporary twist and actually caters to vegans - score. Certified by the Wielkopolska Culinary Heritage Network and awarded at various food festivals, they pride themselves on their beef tartar, sour rye soup, and boar loin; more unusual options include the duck burger and pappardelle with rabbit, chilli and thyme (not so traditional, this one). A nice wine list rounds out the offer.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 64/65, tel. (+48) 604 69 70 44, www.pod-niebieniem.pl. Open 12:00 22:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:30. (26-79zł). T­U­S­W RATUSZOVA One of the longest established places in town and with good reason. Located right on the main square, Ratuszova serves up a vast array of healthy and modern seasonal dishes using the innovative sous vide method not found in many other Poznań restaurants. If the beautiful and unique interior doesn’t impress you (and it should) then the menu surely will. Prepare to indulge yourself with classics such as steak, roast duck with apple, venison, czernina (duck blood) soup, pierogi, and other Polish standards. A perfect spot to spoil yourself.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 55, tel. (+48) 61 851 05 13, www.ratuszova.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (19-99zł).

T­6­S­W WIEJSKIE JADŁO Wiejskie Jadło is just what you expect from a Polish restaurant - a warm wooden interior, bustling staff, and big decent portions of hearty grub. We enjoyed the żurek soup and after gut-busting sausages, it’s good we didn’t have far to go - they’re located just off the market square.

QI‑7, Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from ul. Franciszkańska), tel. (+48) 61 853 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (17-55zł). T­6­U­ B­S­W iyp.me/polandblog

Duck with dumplings and red cabbage

Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from the Franciszkańska street) tel. (+48) 618 53 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl

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Restaurants WSPÓLNY STÓŁ Dine with perfect strangers at the Common Table’s common table (or, for more antisocial parties, at one of the smaller ones). Serving classy takes on Polish cuisine, this welcoming, elegantly decorated lunch-and-dinner spot has a certain nice community feel.QL‑6, ul. Śródka 6, tel. (+48) 614 15 27 18, www.wspolnystol.org. Open 12:00 21:00. (29-55zł). T­6­U­S­W YEŻYCE KUCHNIA Yeżyce Kuchnia offers the perfect opportunity to feel like “part of the scene” and mingle with Poznan’s young, local in-crowd. The cool common room/caff-style decor might have a bit of a weird commie vibe, but combine that with an ever-changing menu of European classics and reimagined local grub and you’ll soon see why this place is a Jeżyce district favorite. During the summer months, shade-totting hipsters sit in the tiny outdoor garden sipping drinks and fiddling with their iphones.QB‑6, ul.

Szamarzewskiego 17 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 663 05 06, www.yezycekuchnia.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (15-50zł). T­6­B­S­W

QUICK EATS NEW FALLA FOOD TRUCK Falla remains a strong editorial favourite, and now we don’t have to trek all the way out to Jeżyce to get our hummus fix: the restaurant has decided to hop on the street food trend and put together a food truck friendly menu served just a short walk away from the main square. A much healthier alternative to the usual burgers, fries, and miscellaneous fast food, Falla food truck focuses on large and delicious wraps filled with falafel, veggies, hummus, and sauces. For something unexpected, try their avo-nori wrap, which includes beetroot falafel, fresh avocado, nori (seaweed), herb mascarpone, vegetables, rocket, and amba mango sauce.QB-6, ul. Wawrzyniaka 19, tel. (+48) 576 95 04 73. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 22:00. (16-28zł). T­6­V­B­S­W FAT BOB BURGER Considered one of the best burgers in town (which is saying something considering PL’s recent infatuation with gourmet fast food), FBB has been drawing rave reviews from critics and ordinary meat lovers alike. Made with fresh ingredients, high-quality beef, and home-made buns, these meaty concoctions are both extra filling and a little more sophisticated than what you’d get at the drive-thu.

For the vegetarian crowd, there’s a grilled halloumi option.

QI‑7, ul. Kramarska 21, tel. (+48) 794 93 93 33. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00.

Closed Mon. (17-25zł). 6­U­B­S MANEKIN Some places just seem to get it spot-on and Manekin is one of them. Set over three levels, this is crepe heaven and offers all the usual options plus more maverick choices like chicken curry. With almost 100 different fillings to choose 42 Poznań In Your Pocket

from you won’t be going home disappointed, providing you can find yourself a table, as - despite being huge - this place is usually packed to the rafters with happy punters who know a good deal when they see one. The quirky and homely interior (with zany lamps, murals, and - of course - mannequins) also makes eating here feel more like a proper restaurant experience than an eat-and-run.

Second location at ul. Mickiewicza 24.QH‑9, ul. Kwiatowa 3, tel. (+48) 61 222 00 01, www.manekin.pl. Open 09:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:30 - 23:00. (6-20zł). T­U­B­S­W

SEAFOOD RESTAURACJA MOMO Momo offers pasta dishes, steaks, and salads are all on offer, but it’s the fresh seafood that really stands out with delightful and imaginative dishes created daily. The chef changes the first page of the menu each morning, and the friendly staff is more than willing to top up your wine glass.

With plenty of rooms to choose from, we prefer the room to the right, but for something a bit more relaxing head to the back where you can park yourself down in one of the armchairs and let off some steam - a perfect stress-free zone.QI‑7, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 501 41 51 36, www. momolovebite.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 21:00. (30-70zł). T­6­S­W RESTAURACJA SŁOŃ SEAFOOD & MORE The Elephant, despite a name more reminiscent of the jungle than the depths of the sea, is City Park’s seafood mecca, with a menu full of fresh lobster, prawns, scallops, caviar, and squid. Sleek and refined, the interior boasts a large rack of fine reds and whites to accompany your meal.

Tuesday is endless mussel day; the chef starts you off with a full pound of clammy goodness with the option to order more, all for 76zł. Choose from mussels with roquefort cheese, butter and wine, wine and tomatoes, or Provence style. If you prefer oysters, Monday is your day: platters with nine types of oysters are available for 89zł. Lunch is served on weekdays for just 29zł.QA‑9, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26A/1, tel. (+48) 663 46 46 46, www.slon-seafood.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.

(35-300zł). T­6­U­B­S­W

THAI THAI FAST WOK A little gem of a place if you fancy quick, simple, and tasty Thai favourites at lunch-special prices, Fast Wok was recently enlarged to accommodate more traffic. Found through an archway leading from ul. Ratajczaka, Fast Wok, while having a Pole in the open kitchen, does seem to have got the basics of this ethnic dish right, something which isn’t a given in Poland. Nasi Goreng, red and green curry, and chicken in black bean sauce are a few of the dishes on the concise menu.QG‑8, ul. Ratajczaka 18 (Pasaż Apollo), tel. (+48) 508 52 89 89, www.fastwok.pl. Open 11:00 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. (18-26zł).

V­B­S­W iyp.me/poznan

strona tytułowa

Restaurants STARE KOSZARY

Kyokai Sushi Bar

Once the barracks of the Polish light cavalry, this historical building in the City Park complex is now densely packed with gourmet restaurants, including our picks below.

KYOKAI SUSHI BAR The City Park development just to the west of the centre (past the Trade Fairs) is home to some of the city’s best eating establishments and this is true for Kyokai, one of Poznań’s most notable Japanese efforts. Laid out over two floors, Kyokai features sushi sets revolving around a circular bar, while a sushi sensei multitasks in the thick of it all. Set in a series of converted red brick buildings, the surroundings look chic and sexy, as do the clientele.

Definitely one to check out, take tram 13 to the ‘Wojskowa’ stop.QA‑8, ul. Wojskowa 4 (Łazarz), tel. (+48) 519 37 61 82, www.kyokai.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. (25-49zł). T­6­U­V­B­S­W LARS, LARS & LARS With a menu featuring mouth-watering options such as pumpkin pierogi with brined cheese and kale, mussels in yellow curry, or chicken supreme with tarragon dumplings and oranges, we were hard pushed to actually make a final choice on what meal to settle for. Scandinavian restaurant Lars, Lars & Lars is situated in the swanky City Park complex (a brisk 10 minute walk from the Sheraton and Mercure hotels) and well worth a visit. A bright and airy interior greets you as you enter and the smart but informal surroundings provide a great atmosphere for chatting to other diners as you indulge in your chosen dish.QA‑9, ul.

Wojskowa 4, tel. (+48) 665 50 98 95, www.larslarslars. pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 21:00. (30-62zł). T­6­S­W THAI THAI From fresh oysters, monkfish in red curry, and crispy duck, to classics like pad thai and mango with sticky rice, this high-end Thai chain prepares veritable Southeast Asian feasts in a refined interior with dark wood, floral lattices, and Buddha ornaments. Top the experience off with a bottle of fine red, or try the 35zł lunches, served from 12:00 till 16:00 on weekdays.

QA‑9, ul. Wojskowa 4, tel. (+48) 885 19 98 85, www.thaithai.pl/poznan. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (38-96zł). S­W 44 Poznań In Your Pocket

WHY THAI FOOD & WINE Why Thai, why not? This fresh, cool, and comfortable modern restaurant refuses to bow down to the standard ‘silk road’ school of Asian interior design. An absolute insistence on using fresh ingredients, unpolluted by MSG or other flavour enhancing poisons, guarantees the dishes have a light and natural taste. The well-conceived menu is neither overly long nor cryptically complicated.

We rate the beef tenderloin with tamarind sauce a ten, but for something a little different give the guinea fowl with coconut sauce, pineapple, and bok choy a go. If you’re particularly nosy and need to know what the Thai cooks are up to try to be seated in the smaller area of the restaurant with its glass-fronted view into the kitchen.

QI‑7, ul. Kramarska 7, tel. (+48) 61 818 29 11, www. whythai.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 22:00. (28-59zł). T­6­U­S­W

VEGETARIAN FALLA Falafel bowls so good, they make us want to weep.

From the assorted pickles to the creamy hummus to the highly addictive seasoned pita bread, Falla churns out dishes that are not only expertly prepared, but also beautifully presented. First-timers will be wise to go for Fatima’s Hand, an impressive assortment of Falla’s best creations, which actually does come in the shape of a hand. Also on the menu: seasonal dishes taking advantage of whatever Polish greengrocers currently have to offer, wraps, shakshouka, Turkish ayran, cocktails, and more. All this in a warm and stylish interior with industrial elements, squirrelled away in Poznań’s hip Jeżyce district. Recommended.

QB‑6, ul. Wawrzyniaka 19, tel. (+48) 576 95 04 73.

Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. (14-40zł).

T­S ­W GREEN WAY A chain of budget vegetarian restaurants that are a Polish success story. Often packed with students who know a good deal when they see one, find a well prepared and generous range of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free dishes, including excellent pancakes and juices.QD‑7, ul.

Zeylanda 6, tel. (+48) 61 843 40 27, www.greenway. pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. (14-19zł).

T­6­S WYPAS Widely regarded as Poz’s best vegan haunt, Wypas is known for heaping plates of “a bit of everything”; choose your adventure from Japanese, Middle Eastern, Mexican, Polish, or Spanish - or perhaps a nice ol’ bowl of ramen or tom kha soup. Bring your eating pants (trousers for you Brits) and wrestle local plant-eaters for seats at this below-ground hole-in-the-wall.QB‑6, ul. Jackowskiego 38, tel. (+48) 796 14 41 15. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 20:00. (21-28zł).

T­6­V­B­S iyp.me/poznan

Nightlife

Soaking up the Cuban atmosphere at Havana (p.52).

Poznań bars are flexible - no matter what the official closing times are, most bars and pubs will stay open until the last customer has stumbled out. Most night spots are concentrated around the Old Town Square, but also check out ul. Nowowiejskiego (G‑6) and ul. Taczaka (F/G‑8, p.50) - both of which draw students in droves. If you don’t see it listed here, visit our website - poznan. inyourpocket.com - for reviews of almost every place in town, and the opportunity to leave your comments about all of them. Below are a few suggestions depending on what you might be looking for: SPLURGE The best cocktails in Poznań are found in Bar Susznia (p.47), which is conveniently situated close to one of the most exclusive danceterias in town - SQ (p.52). Look the part if you want to be accepted into either. If you don’t want snooty, you can easily run up your tab sipping choice monastic ales at Kriek Belgium Pub & Cafe (p.48), while Piano Bar Restaurant & Cafe (p.49) mixes luxury drinks and atmosphere for a swanky well-rounded experience.

SQUARE With so many options, Poz’s Rynek can be overwhelming.

Without doubt the most popular place is Brovaria (p.47), which regularly sees people queuing for tables in order to enjoy the in-house brewed beers. Of course it’s impossible not to mention Pacha (p.52) here - the legendary Ibiza club which has brought its international cred and celebrity crowds to Poz; good luck getting in. For the plebs, it’s the ever-popular Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa (p.49), of course.

46 Poznań In Your Pocket

LADS If you need to catch the match, Poz has a rather classy sports bar in the Sheraton’s Someplace Else (p.50).

Ministerstwo Browaru (p.49) emphasises plenty of obscure beers (including their own) for connoisseurs, while Brovaria (p.47) has excellent lagers brewed right on-site. Keep the night going in Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa (p.49), a cheap late-night eatery on the Rynek that will help you offset your hangover with piles of white sausage and pickled herring; it’s also a great place to meet the locals.

COUPLES Another vote for Bar Susznia (p.47), the best destination for seductive cocktails. If it’s entertainment you’re after check out Blue Note Jazz Club (p.50), which attracts great international performers to serenade your better half. Basilium (p.47) does an excellent job of combining cocktails with cosy spaces as well, or do some wine bar hopping using our listings on p.48.

ALTERNATIVE Catch an underground concert or an obscure film screening at the cultural peculiarity that is Pies Andaluzyjski (p.50), participate in the Polish craft beer obsession at Basilium (p.47), Chmielnik (p.48), and Kriek (p.48), or try a self-serve wine bar concept at Wino na Kieliszki (p.48).

Where’s the party? facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket iyp.me/poznan

Nightlife SYMBOL KEY N Credit cards not accepted 6 Animal friendly U Facilities for the disabled E Live music X Smoking room available

W Wi-fi connection

B Outside seating

BARS & PUBS BAR SUSZNIA Whoa, if there’s one place that keeps leaving an impact it’s the Blow Up. Their bar is the final word in industrial chic, with metal floors, exposed brickwork, and ceilings that stretch to the clouds. The artwork is mad, and deliberately messes with your head, as do the molecular cocktails, truly the work of a scientific hand. An in-house cigar lounge and extensive selection of wines complete the look; it’s not often we attach the word unmissable to a venue, so take note and visit.QG‑9, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 91, www.blowuphall5050.com. Open 15:00 - 23:00.

U­X­W BASILIUM A smart and cosy little location found just off the Rynek, and well-loved by the entire IYP team. Warm lighting and decorations ranging from old gramophones to flattened beer bottles suspended from the ceiling help create a laid-back atmosphere, but the main reason for parking yourself in one of the comfy chairs or propping yourself up an empty wooden barrel is the vast selection of beer on offer. Whilst there are a few on draught, it’s the rows and rows of bottles on the shelves that will have you gawping and unsure quite where to start. With over 150 brews, this is one of the best craft beer bars in Poz. In addition to this, there’s a nice selection of snacks.QI‑7, ul. Woźna 21, tel. (+48) 790 33 37 56. Open 15:00 01:00, Mon 15:00 - 23:00, Tue 15:00 - 24:00, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. 6­U­ B­W BROVARIA Brovaria feels an integral part of Poznań life, and it’s certainly become established as the main expat haunt since the demise of Dom Vikingów. Yet while it feels an ingrained piece of Poznań one look at the design reveals a modern, industrial space, one where steel and glass combine to create a sharp looking area that looks as edgy now as when it first opened. However, coming here to admire the interiors would be missing the point; this place is all about beer, namely the excellent house lagers that are brewed out back in the copper vats. Here’s one of the best microbreweries in Poland, quite possibly the best: enjoy it.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Open 10:00 01:00. W iyp.me/polandblog

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Nightlife WINE BARS

CASA DE VINOS Thirty seconds from bustling Półwiejska Street, Casa de Vinos wine bar serves as an ideal stop-off for those who know they deserve a relaxing glass of wine (or two) after a hard day of shopping and sightseeing. The friendly and knowledgeable staff are happy enough to talk you through the 300 plus bottles on display before offering you a comfy seat in which to enjoy your final choice. It’s small, it’s intimate and it makes for a perfect little place to sample some of the finest wines from around the globe. Keep your credit card at hand - you’ll be needing it when it comes to ordering a bottle or three to take back home.QH‑8, ul. Krysiewicza 5/2, tel. (+48) 61 815 28 26, www.casadevinos.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. W DOBRA I WINO Wine and mozzarella di bufala are the specialties at this upscale establishment, and it’s a superb duo. Located a stone’s throw from the picturesque Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus and adjoining Jesuit complex, though unfortunately lacking an interesting view, Dobra i Wino is a nice spot to unwind and treat yourself after a long day of sightseeing. A collection of gourmet tapas is also on the menu, including delicacies like a French/Italian cheese board, sautéed chorizo, and chicken liver parfait. If you like to start wine bar hopping in the morning, surprisingly cheap breakfast is served daily until noon (13:00 on the weekends), though we’re not sure about mimosa availability - but, hey, you can probably mix your own.

QI‑7, ul. Za Bramką 1, tel. (+48) 514 51 40 09. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Mon 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. T­6­U­B­S­W WINO NA KIELISZKI (WINE BY THE GLASS) The city’s first self-serve wine bar, ‘Wine by the Glass’ lets you pour your own vintage from a selection of forty. Just load up a pre-paid card by the bar, order a cheese board or some nice tapas, and enjoy your Dionysiac evening.

Recommended.QG‑6, ul. Młyńska 12, tel. (+48) 61 627 03 00, www.mlynska12.pl/wino-na-kieliszki.

Open 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 6­U­B­W 48 Poznań In Your Pocket

CHMIELNIK One of the best bars on ul. Żydowska, Chmielnik sports a smart wood and stone interior, on-site brewing tanks, and a spot-on selection of microbrews to pull in a trendy 20-something crowd. The seasonal garden out back is a summer staple, and it has recently expanded, along with the entire locale (which now has a new kitchen on the premises).

Hands down, this is one of our favourite places for lazy gettogethers that go late into the night.QI‑6, ul. Żydowska 27, tel. (+48) 790 33 39 46. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu 13:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. 6­W HOLA HOLA The current ‘place to be’ on ul. Wrocławska, Hola Hola is swarmed by loud revellers the minute the sun sets on a weekend night. You can’t miss it when walking along Poznań’s party street, and if you like to drink in the centre of action, this might just be for you (if not, consider checking out their less crowded basement). The hip-n-cool checklist gets all checks: trendy light fixtures, exposed brick, and drinks served in mason jars are basically obligatory these days.QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 10. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Thu 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. W NEW ISTNY WINE TAPAS BEER Refined but mercifully laid back (leave that tie at home), ISTNY offers a selection of 11 wines, 11 beers, and 2 ciders - all on tap - in a hip, industrial interior. Make sure to grab an assortment of tapas, which include pickled garlic cloves, Polish oscypek, Turkish brine cheese, prosciutto, chorizo, jamón serrano, and olives.QH‑8, ul. Podgórna 12, tel. (+48) 606 61 04 30. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:30 02:00. Closed Sun. 6­W KRIEK BELGIAN PUB & CAFE If ever we were pushed to name a favourite bar in Poznań, this place would be a first impulse. Setting it apart is a collection of 170 Belgian beers, admirably promoted by Sławek, a gregarious giant whose principal aim is to spread the good gospel of lager. Permanently cast in shadow, Kriek is a sure-fire winner, and a hefty bill is as expected as the heavy head that follows. Highly recommended.QI‑7, ul.

Wodna 23, tel. (+48) 508 26 75 70. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. U­W MIEJSCÓWKA Once the city’s most representative street, Św. Marcin has long been a snooze lane crammed with mediocre establishments you’d hurry past on your way to the main square. Luckily, the tide is starting to turn with the addition of increasingly recommendation-worthy restaurants and bars and here’s one. Very ‘current’ what with the neons, exposed brick, and Pinteresty glassware, Miejscówka might not be the most original, but it does earn our seal of approval, and probably Instagram’s as well. The target group here is the more hipster types, so expect lots of whimsical cocktails and colourful shots.QG‑8, ul. Święty Marcin 29. Open 17:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. W iyp.me/poznan

Nightlife MINISTERSTWO BROWARU One of our favourite haunts for Polish craft beers; find AleBrowar brews like Black Hope and Rowing Jack on tap alongside the establishment’s own Ministerstwo beers and top-rated European names like Delirium Tremens.

If we had it our way all pubs would be run by folks as knowledgeable as these fellows, who’ve boiled it down to wood benches and great beer. If you’re up before it’s afternoon, you’ll find the equally awesome Minister Cafe upstairs. Second pub localization at ul. Wroniecka 16.QG‑8, ul. Ratajczaka 34, tel. (+48) 601 53 37 47.

Open 16:00 - 02:00. B­W PIANO BAR RESTAURANT & CAFE The perfect spot for business meetings and dinners, with a clean cream interior punctuated by white tablecloths, a piano, and some well-chosen local art. The mobile drinks cabinet can be dispatched to your party if an emergency surfaces, such as an inability to walk. Waiters are decked out suitably and can handle any cocktail you should require. For a more laid-back experience and a nice threecourse Mediterranean lunch, head to their second room, decorated in classy but easygoing NYC style.QG‑9, ul.

Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.pianobar.poznan.pl. Open 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. U­E­W PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA The newspapered interior and nostalgic communistera concept here are exactly the same as their dozens of locations all over the country (including a second in Poz at ul. Wrocławska 8, C-2): dirt cheap booze and dirt cheap grub like pickled herring and cold pork in jelly to soak up the aforementioned booze. This place is packed at all hours, though it’s best sampled during the later stages of the evening when you’re guaranteed a right assortment of characters who are happy to spill out their life story for the price of a 4.50zł beer. Very ‘Polish’ and a welcome alternative to some of the Rynek’s more expensive and snobby bars. Karaoke nights take place on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays 20:00-02:00.

QH‑7, Stary Rynek 85, tel. (+48) 791 85 95 55. Open 09:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 05:00. U­N­W SŁODOWNIA BROWAR PUB Set inside the old malt house (Słodownia) of the former Huggerów Brewery which has now become the vast Stary Browar mall, Browar Pub attracts a monied and grown-up crowd you’re unlikely to see filling clubs around Poznań’s main square. The arched brick ceilings add architectural interest, though all eyes are typically focused on the dance floor. Theme nights are popular here on weeknights, with weekends devoted to hits from 70s through to the present day, which might explain the classier crowd. Our only complaint is that Browar’s location deep inside the mall can make it tough to spot from outside, but follow the dolled up crowd up the outside stairs on Półwiejska as it’s worth the effort.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.slodownia.com. Open 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Y­E­W iyp.me/polandblog

IT’S ALWAYS WINE O’CLOCK

Wino na Kieliszki is the only such concept in Poznań. Help yourself to a choice of forty especially chosen top quality wines to accompany our superb tapas selection.

Młyńska 12, Poznań | www.mlynska12.pl mlynska12@mlynska12.pl | 509 104 996

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Nightlife LIVE MUSIC BLUE NOTE JAZZ CLUB A vast multi-level jazz club whose spangly interior has shades of 90s club tragedy written all over it.

Don’t let that discourage you, however; this is a legendary venue that has hosted some of the biggest names in Polish and international jazz. Do check their website for what’s cooking first - this space has been known to be rented out for teen hip-hop nights and other hooded-top twaddle, and if there’s no concert scheduled then they aren’t open.QF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 79, tel. (+48) 61 851 04 08, www. bluenote.poznan.pl. Open 45 min before event; check website. E PIES ANDALUZYJSKI “Theatre / music / vodka” - this is how ‘An Andalusian Dog’ describes itself in short. Named after the 1929 surrealist short film by Luis Buñuel and Salvador Dalí, this eccentric den supplements its already alluring atmosphere with concerts, workshops, and performances.QG‑6, ul. Nowowiejskiego 17, tel. (+48) 509 68 18 71. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon. U­E­W

TACZAKA STREET The popular concept of the ‘pub crawl’ hasn’t quite taken off locally in PL. Generally speaking, Poles prefer to find themselves a decent bar, park their butt for the night and let the alcohol do the rest. Not a bad idea, but don’t let yourself fall too far into that trap when visiting Poznań - this city has made a name for itself when it comes to nightlife, and is simply too full of fine boozers to limit yourself to just a few.

As an alternative to the almost boundless drinking opportunities on the main square, more adventurous visitors may want to check out Ulica Taczaka (A/B3), where you can approach local alcohol culture in much the same manner as you might sightseeing - namely by attempting to absorb as much of it as you can as efficiently as possible in the short time that you’re here. Located just five minutes from the market square, Taczaka is known as the ‘high street’ of Poznań’s down-at-heel ‘student ghetto,’ and is densely packed with divey proto-Polish cellar pubs, the likes of which it’s hardly worth the energy to differentiate between here - all feature the same trusty formula for good times: cheap beer, familiar music, unbashful boozed-up students, and foreign boys practicing pigeon Polish on the local birds. It’s certainly not for everyone, but if that sounds like your society, start at Taczaka’s top end (off ul. Ratajczaka, B-3) and get down on all fours for a crawl down one of Poznań’s most prodigious nightlife expressways.

50 Poznań In Your Pocket

SOMEPLACE ELSE SPE is a natural born winner – few places are better geared to meet foreign demands, and while the prices are undoubtedly steep (do you expect anything else from the Sheraton?), it’s a place where foreigners and locals mix with seamless ease, chatting about travels while sports beam down from their 9 TVs. American in spirit, you’ll find Route 66 extras mingled with rock pics, as well as more whimsical touches such as a car bonnet bursting from the wall. Taking centre stage is a circular bar, the perfect base to chat to staff while they fix earthquake cocktails and velvet smooth Guinness. Happy hours commence at 16:00 on weekdays and noon (!) on the weekends, going until 20:00 in both cases.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else.pl.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. Y­U­W UŁAN BROWAR Brewing up some decent craft beer to drink alongside regionally-inspired pub grub, Ułan is a new addition to the Poz’s City Park complex located in lovingly refurbished Ułan/Uhlan (Polish light cavalry) barracks. The military links might end at the name, but that makes no difference to those who come here to watch the big game with their mates, play some snooker, or listen to the occasional stand-up. If that doesn’t sound so kid-friendly, you’re in for a surprise - the little ones get a play corner of their own, so take them along as you sample some local brews.

QA‑10, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26, tel. (+48) 888 08 52 22, www.ulanbrowar.pl. Open 13:00 - 24:00. T­6­U­ S­W WHISKEY IN THE JAR What with Stary Rynek being most people’s first port of call, it’s always good to have a bit of variety. Whiskey in the Jar ticks the box for ‘good-old-fashioned rock ‘n’ roll bar,’ but this isn’t your typical grubby rock pub - rather a classy joint serving steaks and burgers and killer cocktails guaranteed to leave your head spinning (Don’t believe us? See how many of their Jack Daniel’s Whisky Jars you can work your way through in one sitting).

QI‑7, Stary Rynek 100, tel. (+48) 690 28 88 98, www. whiskeyinthejar.pl. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. Y­6­E­W WHISKY BAR 88 Steal yourself away to the darkened surroundings of Whisky Bar in City Park where you will find the ideal conditions to sit back and enjoy one of well over 900 different types of the sainted liquid. Whether you’re looking for whiskey, whisky, or whatever it is in Japanese, you will not be disappointed with the elegantly backlit display cases holding some wonderful choices including some 25-year old single malts.

Comfortable chairs and a modern take on an ‘open-fire’ complete the picture.QA‑9, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26A (City Park Hotel & Residence), tel. (+48) 888 32 18 88, www.whiskybar88.pl. Open 16:00 - 01:00. U­E­X­ W iyp.me/poznan

Nightlife ŹRÓDŁO.BAR The focus at “the Spring” - or “the Source”, depending on the translation - is on a wide selection of whiskey and seasonal cocktails (it was fruit cobbler, Cynar spritz, and Moscow mule the past summer, among other creations). The interior decor is spot-on, veering away from tired hipster cliches towards geometric furniture and a Mondrianesque mirror, though the obligatory exposed brick still takes the spotlight. If whisky and cocktails don’t float your boat, there’s also plenty of craft beer, cider, sangria, rum, and shots on the menu.QF‑8, ul. Taczaka 15, tel. (+48) 792 75 21 32, www.zrodlobar.pl. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. W

CLUBS CUBA LIBRE Set down a shadowy courtyard basement, Cuba Libre is a bouncy Latin venue replete with whitewashed walls, pics of Che, and wall space dedicated to an assortment of Cuban goodies. This place goes for detail, so much so that drinkers can even take a seat in one of those clapped-out vintage bangers you see pootling round the streets of Havana.

The Fiesta Latino Fridays and Disco Latino Saturdays prove seriously popular.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. (+48) 61 855 23 44, www.cuba-libre.pl. Open 21:00 - 05:00, Mon, Tue 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. E­X­W CZARNA OWCA A local institution. Upstairs is a noisy wood-furnished bar, downstairs a hot labyrinthine club. Music is usually no more challenging than chart hits, though they do occasionally draw reputable DJ’s and a crowd hell-bent on tipping lots of booze down their gobholes.QH‑8, ul. Jaskółcza 13, tel. (+48) 537 67 47 57. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only 20:00 - 04:00.

X­W CZEKOLADA Credit crunch you say? Not in Poznań, people. While the rest of the world staggers around like a shot pig the denizens of Poznań are living the high life in places like Czekolada. To call this place sexy would be a disservice; this is the final word in design drinking and the sort of cocktail spot/lounge club the city deserves. Huge chandeliers, shiny surfaces and black finishes lend a real svelte look to this spot, and you’d be a fool to turn up looking like anything less than a celebrity. To make a reservation, head to their website of facebook.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 18, tel. (+48) 665 55 08 91, www.klubczekolada.pl. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 05:00. X­W HAH POZNAŃ Short for Heaven and Hell, the HAH clubbing chain is big on inclusivity; their clubs are gay-friendly and host occasional drag shows and pride parade after-parties.

There’s plenty of room for hetero revellers as well, and their karaoke nights and hot latino music parties have a universal appeal. Fittingly located in a former distillery, HAH has three rooms to choose from: heaven, which iyp.me/polandblog

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Nightlife focuses on the newest pop hits; purgatory, a quieter chillout zone; and hell, a loud techno and deep house area with a passageway to a men-only cruising bar. There is also a zone for karaoke, which starts at 22:00 on Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.QI‑6, ul. Małe Garbary 6, tel. (+48) 786 17 58 08, www.hah.com.pl. Open 22:00 - 06:00 Tue, Thu, Fri and Sat. ­E­X

POLISH VODKA

© Pijalnia Wodki, Fabrizio Sciami

The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most popular of which we describe below.

WIŚNIÓWKA Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka, wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. You’ll see students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa is incredibly palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice.

KRUPNIK A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added. ŻUBRÓWKA One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’

52 Poznań In Your Pocket

HAVANA CLUB POZNAŃ This Cuban bonanza is right on the Old Market Square, putting you in the centre of nighttime revelry. The music of choice is salsa, samba, and merengue, the bar is stocked with all the necessary ingredients for endless mojitos and Cuba libres, and tapas are available for a quick mid-dance refuel. Latino parties take place on Fridays and Saturdays, starting at 20:00; to brush up your dance moves, come to a Wednesday night latino dance workshop (also starting at 20:00).QH‑7, Stary Rynek 62, tel. (+48) 690 00 99 80, www.havanapoznan.pl. Open 12:00 - 05:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. ­E­X­W PACHA Pacha? As in, the world’s most famous clubbing franchise Pacha? In Poznań? We’re as shocked as you, but yep, those cherries are real, and this is the only Pacha in Central Europe - validating Poznań’s growing international rep as a prime party city. Decked out in plush design and pumping out house music for the masses, Pacha is a divorcee’s paradise and one which is attracting big crowds looking to dance away those working-week blues. Will its reputation be enough to pull in the punters from Warsaw, Wrocław, and Berlin? Time will tell...QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. (+48) 519 30 02 60, www.pachapoznan.com. Open Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 05:00. X­W PROJEKT LAB Inspired by the Berlin party scene - in fact, conceived as a direct result of the to-be owners’ wild night at techno club Berghain - Projekt LAB is an experimental space and underground music venue that proved an immense hit as soon as it opened doors in 2013. The music of choice here is dubstep, trap, drum’n’bass, and - naturally - 50 shades of techno, often supplied by international DJs and bands.

Brave the long entry lines and you’ll be rewarded with a true multimedia experience.QI‑6, ul. Grochowe Łąki 5, tel. (+48) 731 47 71 02, www.projektlab.pl. Open Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 07:00 only. X­W SQ Dance with the fittest and the hippest in SQ, by far the most envied dance space in town. Silly haircuts and expensive wardrobes abound here, and they’re here for the music not the design – DJs arrive from all across Poland to play here, sometimes even further. The interior isn’t all that, but the nights are legend, and you’ll find no better place to puff the chest out and behave like a big time Bertie.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 663 78 65 47, www.sqklub. pl. Open Wed 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00 only.

E­X iyp.me/poznan

Nightlife

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© Boris Stroujko, AdobeStock

Poznań Sightseeing Crowded with cobbled streets, soaring steeples and historical monuments, Poznań’s Old Town is a collage of architectural styles and historical monuments, waiting to be explored…

Essential Poznań With a deep and typically complex history, Poznań is rife with historical monuments and has much to offer those who enjoy outstanding architecture and diverse cultural attractions. While part of the beauty of Poznań lies in aimlessly roaming the streets and alleys, making chance findings from one turn to the next, there are a number of must-see sights whose discovery should not be left to chance.

Your natural start point should be the Old Town and its wonderful Old Town Square. We have prepared two walking tours to take you through these - the Old Town Square walking tour begins just ahead, on the next page, while the wider Old Town tour is this issue’s feature, starting on p.6. The highlights include the flamboyantly pink Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus (p.7), the Old Town Hall (p.57) - once renowned as the most beautiful building north of the Alps and home to a pair of mechanical billy goats which emerge each day at noon - and two castles.

The Royal Castle (p.8), located just west of the Rynek, was the seat of the first Polish kings; neglected for decades, it has recently been returned to its pride of place with thorough renovation works. Further west is the Imperial Castle (p.12), built as the residence of Prussian ruler Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1910, and turned into a cultural centre in recent years. If you have more time and wish to dip into some of Poznań’s museums, take a look at our listings starting on p.61.

Once you’ve finished strolling the Old Town, make sure you have the better part of a day to enjoy the medieval ambience and relative tranquillity of Ostrów Tumski, Poznań’s glorious ‘Cathedral Island’ (p.66). Located just across the Warta River, it is a site connected not only with the founding of the city of Poznań, but with the very birth of the Polish nation. Here you’ll find the most important place of worship in the city, the Poznań Cathedral (p.67) with its twin towers and surrounding chapels. The story of Ostrów Tumski is now told in all its glory at the outstanding Porta Posnania (p.66), a modern complex which has become the mandatory starting point for exploring the island. Just beyond lies the small settlement of Śródka (p.68), which is a lovely place to extend your stoll.

Poznań also boasts some glorious parks and green spaces. Lake Malta (p.76) is one of the most unique urban leisure areas in the country, and offers loads of family activities for all seasons, including skiing, rollercoasters, and the New Zoo (p.77). Meanwhile, just north of the Old Town, Citadel Park’s 89 hectares of public greenery are stuffed with interesting monuments, and even two museums focused on the city’s military history (p.69).

No matter how long your stay, you’ll find plenty in Poznań to keep your interest. Use our Sightseeing section to explore it all and enjoy one of Poland’s most ancient and exciting cities. iyp.me/polandblog

POZNAŃ IYP ONLINE Due to space restrictions in our print guide, we’re actually only able to publish a fraction of all the excellent content we have on Poznań and the surrounding region, not to mention all of Poland.

Visit our website - poland.inyourpocket.com - to see just how much of the country we cover, and to download guides to Warsaw, Kraków, Łódź, Gdańsk, Wrocław and other cities you might be travelling to. Below is a small sampling of great Poznań-related content we didn’t have room for this issue, with links to where you’ll find it online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket!

THE ENIGMA CODE Have you seen The Imitation Game? What the film didn’t tell you (what a shocker) is that the cracking of the first Enigma codes was achieved right here in Poznań by Polish math majors, whose work formed the foundation of everything that would later take place at Bletchley Park.

Get the whole story here: iyp.me/enigmapoznan POZNAŃ’S FORTS Poznań was once a heavily fortified city, as evidenced by the 18 early-19th century forts that surround the centre. While today most are completely abandoned, some are open to the public in various forms, and make an interesting form of alternative sightseeing. To that end we detail each of the 18 and tell you how to find them: iyp.me/poznanforts THE GREAT ESCAPE If you’ve read our guide closely (have you?) you know that some of the British soldiers involved in the escape from the Stalag Luft 3 concentration camp in Zagań (famously depicted in the film, The Great Escape) are buried in Poznań’s Citadel Park (p.66). We tell you the true (non-Hollywood) version of events, plus how to visit the actual camp itself in our online feature: iyp.me/zaganpoznan

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Stary Rynek Walking Tour Packed with monuments, landmarks, museums, and mementos from the city’s rich history, Poznańs marvellous Old Town Square warrants more than a passing glance and smartphone pic. Faithfully reconstructed after the immense damage of WWII, the Square can easily take a few hours to properly explore and enjoy.

1 OLD TOWN HALL First erected in the early 14th century, Poznań’s glorious Town Hall (Ratusz) really flowered in mid-1500s when Italian architect Giovanni Quadro of Lugano added the Renaissance loggia, attic, and classical tower, earning the structure acclaim as ‘the most beautiful building north of the Alps.’ Unfortunately a catalogue of historic disasters - including a 1675 fire, 1725 hurricane and WWII bomb damage - have resulted in the sad reality that today little of the original structure actually remains, though it has been faithfully rebuilt to retain its status as the city’s showpiece.

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Today the Old Town Hall houses the Historical Museum of Poznań, whose collection encompasses exhibits from the 10th century till the present day. The biggest draw is the Great Entrance Hall with its elaborately decorated vault, supported by two huge pillars. The tableaux are inspired by the bible, astrology and figures from mythology. Directly outside the Town Hall is the original whipping post, dating from 1535, with a recently repaired figure of Poz’s executioner standing on top.

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Stary Rynek Walking Tour Poznań, and exhibits include the disturbing photograph of a swastika fluttering from the Town Hall.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 61 856 81 93, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon. From June 16 open 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/1-5zł, Sat free.

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Historical Museum of Poznań

Crowds gather outside the Town Hall each day to witness two mechanical billy goats emerge from a door above the clock at precisely 12:00 and proceed to butt heads twelve times. Simultaneously, a trumpeter plays the town’s traditional bugle call from a balcony. The bugle call (hejnał) dates back at least to the 15th century, and the goats have been ramming heads 1551. Replaced and restored over the years, the present pair have been bludgeoning each other since 1954. Of course there’s a half-baked legend to go along with them: When the clock was completed in 1511, the governor of the Poznań province was invited for the unveiling. The hapless cook preparing the celebratory feast burnt the venison, so he went out and managed to steal a pair of goats to serve instead. Alas, the goats escaped and traipsed up to the top of City Hall, where the governor saw them butting heads and decreed they be added to the clock. The rest, as they say, is history - much like the cook, who was likely tied to the whipping post and given a bloody good thrashing.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 61 856 81 93, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From June 16 open 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/1-5zł, Sat free.

2 HISTORICAL MUSEUM OF POZNAŃ The show-stealing Town Hall proves a fitting venue for a museum of this stature. The gothic cellars – originally the municipal prison - hold exhibits dating back to the earliest times of settlement in the 10th century. On the ground floor, rooms built in the 16th century hold exhibits covering the city’s urban and economic development during that time. The Renaissance Hall, Royal Hall and Court Hall on the first floor hold the most valuable documents and artefacts, and the opulent vaulted ceilings – depicting griffins, lions and eagles - are worth the photography surcharge alone.

Exhibits include a 13th century crosier from Limoges, a table clock with the Poznań coat of arms from 1575 and a globe from 1688 – resist the temptation to give it a spin lest you wish to incur the wrath of hawkish curators. Much of the second floor is dedicated to the 19th century when the city was under Prussian rule, and features everyday objects and portraits of prominent citizens. The final part of the museum depicts the history of 20th century

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3 PRANGER Just outside the Town Hall, near its southeast corner, you’ll find the proudly protruding Pranger, a 16th-century punishment device funded by fines placed on servant women, wet-nurses, and barmaids who dressed up too frilly or wore jewellery deemed inappropriate for their social standing (the outrage!). Topped with a severe statue of a sword-wielding executioner in a Crusader’s outfit, unlucky criminals would be chained to this octagonal column and whipped, or - if the executioner was feeling fancy or the crime warranted it - have his ears or fingers chopped off.

Sadly, the contraption no longer elicits deserved fear, as evidenced by repeated vandalism by drunken students and football hooligans - an offence which would surely be more creatively punished in the Pranger’s heyday than in our current times. Luckily, the original isn’t actually in any danger, as it has long been moved to the Historical Museum and replaced with a copy.QI‑7, Stary Rynek.

4 BUDNICY HOUSES To the left of the Town Hall is perhaps the most recognisable Poznań sight: the picture-book-worthy, technicolor row of townhouses planted right in the middle of the Main Square. Originally called “herring shops” (budy śledziowe), they were home to merchants, and their arcades held fish, candle, torch, and salt stands. They were later renamed to Budnicy Houses (domki budnicze) in honour of a class of merchants known as Budnicy, whose headquarters used to operate at no. 117. Look closely and you’ll see their coat of arms on the facade: three palm trees and a herring.QI‑7, Stary Rynek.

Pranger

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Stary Rynek Walking Tour MYTHOLOGICAL FOUNTAINS

Apollo Fountain

6 ARSENAŁ CITY GALLERY Founded in the late 1940s under the somewhat commiesounding name Central Exhibition Bureau, Arsenał is one of the oldest players on Poznań’s art gallery scene - and probably the most important, especially given its very central location. Currently organised by the Poznań City Council, the institution hosts exhibitions by Polish and foreign artists and organises educational meetings.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 61 852 95 02, www.arsenal.art. pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

© teressa, AdobeStock

Guarding the corners of the square are four mythological fountains depicting Neptune, Mars, Apollo, and perhaps in order to combat the under-representation of the fairer sex - Proserpina. The fountains date back to at least the 16th century, though the original adornments were quite different: historical records show a commision for wooden sculptures of a lion and a deer. In the 17th century, city authorities decided to go Roman and splurge on figures of mythological dieties, also in wood (later they were redone in stone).

Of the four currently standing, only Proserpina is the original, dating back to 1766; it depicts the goddess of grain and agriculture being abducted by Pluto. The other three fountains were revealed between 2002 and 2005 and placed in their correct historical spots.

Od:zysk 5 JOHN OF NEPOMUK MONUMENT

As you stroll Stary Rynek, you’ll see numerous monuments, including this noteworthy 1724 figure of John of Nepomuk (Jan Nepomucen), a Bohemian martyr saint who was tortured and drowned in the Vltava River after refusing to divulge the secrets of the Queen of Bohemia’s confessional to her jealous husband Wenceslaus. It was hoped that the saint would be able to protect the city from repeated, disastrous floods, but ultimately the 1960’s re-routing of the Warta River did a far better job of that.QI‑7, Stary Rynek.

Arsenał and the Wielkopolska Military Museum

58 Poznań In Your Pocket

7 OD:ZYSK The weirdest spot on the Old Market Square, this former squat is a testament to the city’s large anarchist presence. The late 19th century building on the square’s corner housed a succession of fashion stores, before it was abandoned by its owners sometime in the early 21st century, a signal for the local anarchists to take over.

The move took place in late 2012, sparking conflict with city authorities; the squatters used the space to host parties, concerts, and various anarchist events while simultaneously housing some fifty people in shabby conditions, which put the Old Square’s peaceful touristy appeal in some jeopardy. It took until 2015 for the two sides to come to an agreement: the anarchists would move out in exchange for 125 thousand zł (some 35 thousand USD), which would go towards helping the city’s evictees and debtors. Since then, the graffitied and postered building has stood empty, though there are plans to eventually turn it into a posh hotel and restaurant. This doesn’t mean that the anarchists have left the centre completely; you’ll still find them running the Zemsta cafe and bookstore and tagging city walls with leftist messages, while their headquarters remain at ul. Rozbrat, just off Pułaskiego.QH‑7, ul.

Paderewskiego 2.

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Stary Rynek Walking Tour GUIDED TOURS If an authoritative print guide and expansive web portal simply aren’t enough, and you need someone to literally take you by the hand (hey, we kid), there are plenty of tour companies to choose from in Poznań and we list the best of them here.

CITY EVENT POZNAŃ More from City Guide Poznań - going beyond walking tours and standard tourist itineraries, City Event Poznań organises multimedia city games, foodie and feast tours, beer excursions, costumed performers, historical reenactments, traditional music concerts, and more. Perfect for groups, school field trips, and team building.Qtel. (+48) 608 28 42 08, www.cityevent-poznan.pl.

John of Nepomuk Monument

Photo by kwolana, CC BY-SA 3.0

8 GUARDHOUSE

This 18th-century police guardhouse was originally haphazardly constructed using wood, and later redone in classicist style by Jan Chrystian Kamsetzer in 1783-1787. In the inter-war period, it served as a garrison jailhouse. Like much of the Old Town, this structure was all but levelled in the Battle of Poznań in 1945, and the building had to be reconstructed in later years, serving as the Workers’ Movement Museum during communism. It currently houses the 1818-1819 Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (p.65).QH‑7, Stary Rynek 3.

9 MUNICIPAL SCALES BUILDING This cute, freestanding building on the Main Square almost looks like something out of Hansel and Gretel. Originally constructed in 1534, it once housed hardware for weighing merchandise on its way to the market. The little that remains of the original furnishings is now located in the Historical Museum, and the building itself is used by the city’s civil registry to issue marriage certificates.QH/I‑7, Stary Rynek.

CITY GUIDE POZNAŃ Excellent local guides offering tours in English, German, Polish, Italian, Russian, French and Spanish to attractions throughout Poznań and beyond (the Piast Route). During Poland’s EU presidency, City Guides was chosen to show delegates of the European Commission around the city solid credentials indeed. Their sister company, City Event Poznań, organises segway and beer tours as well.Qtel. (+48) 608 28 42 08, www.cityguide-poznan.com.pl.

VISITPOZNAŃ VisitPoznan offers a wide variety of traditional and alternative-themed walking tours for groups and individuals. Regular Old Town tours (20zł) in English leave from the main square Tourist Information Centre Thu and Sat at 17:00; other languages and tours by prior arrangement, with prices below.Qtel. (+48) 663 03 62 95, www.visitpoznan.info. For groups 1-6 people 190zł/2hrs, 250zł/3hrs, 340zł/5hrs; prices negotiable for larger groups.

TOURIST INFORMATION CITY INFORMATION CENTRE QD‑9, ul. Dworcowa 2 (Main Train Station), tel. (+48) 61 633 10 16, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 08:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Qul. Bukowska 285 (Poznań Ławica Airport, Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 849 21 40, www.cim. poznan.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

Wielkopolska Uprising Museum

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Radomil CC BY-SA 3.0

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Maps and guides in Polish, English, and German. Assistance in those languages plus French, Spanish, Italian, and Portuguese.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 59/60, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 56, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00, Open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

From May open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

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Stary Rynek Walking Tour POZNAŃ STREET ART

The Watcher, dog edition.

For a long time, the height of Polish street art amounted to scrawling less-print-friendly versions of “All Cops Are Bastards” and “Lech Poznań 4ever” on residential buildings and/or historical monuments in the dead of night, while the ‘artist’s’ accomplices kept watch on the street corner. Older Poles will also remember the occasional party-sanctioned propaganda murals - not the best connotation either.

It was only around 2009-2010 that quality outdoor art started rapidly gaining ground in PL, spawning mural artists and street art festivals throughout the country.

The local scene took off in 2011 with the first edition of the Outer Spaces Festival, which saw renowned muralists from Italy, The Netherlands, Spain, and France invited to spice up the drab exteriors of five carefullychosen buildings. The project was a hit, and two more editions were organised, adding a pop of optimism to Wilda and Jeżyce.

Not everyone has opted for the legal route, however: a certain Banksy-esque character operating under the pseudonym ‘Noriaki Kasai’ (not the actual ski jumper, as far as we know - that’d be weird) is responsible for an infestation reminiscent of Wrocław’s ‘gnome problem,’ tagging the city walls with variations of Pan Peryskop (Mr. Periscope) AKA The Watcher - a loveable maverick who has integrated himself into the fabric of the city. Keep an eye out, and you’ll realise this watchful rascal is ubiquitous, peering from walls, walking his dog, playing b-ball, and getting passed-out drunk depending on the circumstances.

Municipal Scales Building

Photo by kwolana, CC BY-SA 4.0

10 BAMBER MONUMENT This small statue of a traditionally-dressed Bamber peasant girl carrying jugs used in wine-making stands beside the historical Municipal Scales building. Created by sculptor Joseph Wackerle, who would later become Reich Culture Senator and Hitler’s favourite artist, Bamberka was unveiled in 1915 and originally stood over a well providing drinking water for horses. The subject matter commemorated the Bambers, poor Catholic farmers from Bavaria (today southeast Germany), who came to Poznań around 300 years ago at the invitation of the city authorities to help rebuild villages devastated by war and plague. To find out more about this unique group, you can visit the Poznań Bamber Museum (p.64).QI‑7, Stary Rynek.

Fancy a walking tour of Poznań’s best street art? Head to iyp.me/pozstreetart for a rundown of not-to-bemissed specimens, all of which we’ve pinned with GPS coordinates so that your smartphone can do the work for you. We encourage you to do just that, and check out some of Poz’s alternative artistic visions.

60 Poznań In Your Pocket

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Museums MUSEUMS 1956 UPRISING MUSEUM The Zamek is an impressive building alright, but pride of place goes to the 1956 Uprising exhibition, honouring the first armed resistance the communist regime faced. Hidden down a side entrance, this basement masterpiece features stretchers used to carry the wounded, a tank, a display of arms and rifles, a room of Socialist propaganda posters, a typical Poznań family’s flat from the 1950s and a direct copy of a detention cell. Most poignant of all, though, is the space set aside for 13 year old Roman Strzałkowski, the youngest to die in the troubles. Exhibits include his harmonica and domino set, and newspaper clippings showing Strzałkowski picking up prizes for his piano skills.

QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 852 94 64, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5zł, Tue free. Y­U­N

figures as well as miniature dioramas depicting life from the Stone Age to the Iron Age. The other permanent exhibit, ‘Death and Life in Ancient Egypt,’ features 120 rare pieces, from a granite obelisk of Rameses II to the mummified remains of a woman named ‘Hat.’QI‑7, ul. Wodna 27 (Pałac Górków), tel. (+48) 61 852 82 51, www.muzarp.poznan. pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł, family ticket 20zł.

Sat free. Guided tours by prior arrangement 70zł. Free audio guides avaliable in English. Y­U ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM See Ostrów Tumski, p.68.QK‑6, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10/7zł, family ticket 17zł. Y­N CHOCOLATE MUSEUM Joining the Croissant Museum (p.64) is another sweet temptation under an educational guise: the Chocolate Museum where kids of all ages (including those quite grown and greying) can learn about cacao tree plantations, the history of chocolate, and chocolate-making techniques while sampling decadent creations. The guided tours last an estimated 40 minutes and can be followed with a 30-minute workshop during which participants create their own chocolate bar - to take home, of course (if you can refrain from wolfing it down on the spot).QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 12, tel. (+48) 502 45 41 77, www.muzeumczekolady. edu.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 18/15zł, plus 20zł for the optional workshop. U

Courtesy of 1956 Uprising Museum

APPLIED ARTS MUSEUM Housed in the Royal Castle of Poznań, this museum has recently undergone huge changes which shifted the focus from medieval craftwork and princely decorations exclusively to applied arts, rolling out a 2000-piece exhibition of furniture, fabrics, ceramics, glassware, weaponry, and clothing from around the world. For those more interested in the actual history of the place, we recommend skipping the arts and checking out the (sparse) ground-floor exhibition dedicated to the castle and its founder, Duke Przemysł II, as well as climbing the seasonally-open tower.

QH‑7, Góra Przemysła 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 35, www. mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00; Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From June 16 open 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/1-8zł. Tue free. Y­N ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Housed in the beautiful 16th-century Górka Palace, Poznań’s Archaeology Museum contains a collection of 42,000 rare and mystifying objects that chart life in Ancient Egypt and prehistoric Poland. The first part of the museum takes you through the earliest settlements in the region, with life-sized iyp.me/polandblog

Courtesy of Applied Arts Museum

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Museums POZNAŃ TRADE FAIRS

While many foreign visitors to Central Europe may be unfamiliar with Poznań, businesspeople involved in foreign trade are likely to be more than aware of the city. That’s because Poznań is Poland’s trade fair capital with the title justified by the country’s largest fair grounds, where the biggest and best fairs in Poland take place each year.

Though Poznań’s rich trading tradition can be traced back to the thirteenth century, the true predecessor of today’s fair was the 1911 East German Industrial Exhibition, which showcased Germany’s achievements in annexed Polish territories. Six years later the Union of Merchant Associations, comprising merchants from Greater Poland and Eastern Pomerania, decided to develop a specialised cyclical expo based on the successful model of the Leipzig Trade Fair. This idea reached fruition on May 28, 1921, when the first Poznań Fair took place. Since then, the Fair’s fortunes have risen and fallen according to the political and economic changes that periodically moved through Poland and Europe: from playing a key role in re-integrating economic activities in the newly independent second Polish Republic, to the near-demise of the fair complex during WWII air raids (which destroyed the iconic Upper Silesian Tower), and to a new start in the post-war communist state.

Though the 1950s were a time of uncertainty and tension, with the fair closed down for a few years due to the Cold War atmosphere, the ‘60s proved to be a period of robust growth, so much so that organisers started running out of exposition space. From 1973 on, the event was broken up into smaller chunks, as more specialised fairs branched off from the main expo.

DALINEUM A quite random but endearing addition to Poz’s museum scene, Dalineum is a homage to the master of ‘paranoidcritical’ surrealism, Spanish painter Salvador Dalí. Housed in a black-tapestried and windowless locale just off the main square, the private collection comprises numerous prints, ceramics, works in metal, and items produced commercially by the enterprising artist, such as perfume bottles, ties, and playing cards. Adding to the surrealist factor is music croaking out from fatigued speakers, variable-quality English descriptions, and an unintentional funhouse mirror effect on some of the protective plastic screens. An adventure to be sure.QI‑7, ul. Wielka 24, tel. (+48) 570 62 58 25, www.artexpo-international.com.

Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 20/15zł. N LITERARY MUSEUM OF HENRYK SIENKIEWICZ Winner of the 1905 Nobel Prize in Literature, Sienkiewicz is best known internationally as the author of Quo Vadis, a birth-of-Christianity epic that has been translated into 50 languages. This museum dedicated to his legacy is located in a house that once belonged the Italian architect Jean Baptiste Quadro (that’s his bust you can see outside), and the collection is the life work of Ignacy Moś, who started collecting Sienkiewicz memorabilia after helping to free Sienkiewicz’s only son from the Gestapo. The exhibition includes the author’s Lennon-style specs, post-mortem facial and hand casts, correspondences, and a collection of his novels including an English version of Quo Vadis dating from 1899.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 84, tel. (+48) 61 852 89 71, www.bracz.edu.pl/MHS. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 4/2zł, Sat free. N MODELS OF POZNAŃ A huge model that shows Poznań in its form as presented in Brau-Hogenburg’s illustration sketched in 1618.

Constructed over a period of six years the model takes up a space of 50m2 and is built on a scale of 1:150. The decorative details are impressive, and you can expect lots of kids as well as anoraked model enthusiasts pulling up the school seats around it as they wait for the show to begin.

As the lights dim a recorded commentary begins and visitors are taken through the area-by-area story of Poznań’s development. Foreigners are given headsets broadcasting

Currently, the Poznań International Fair constitutes over 60% of the Polish exhibition industry, hosting some 10,000 exhibitors a year - approximately a quarter of them foreign - in the complex’s sixteen halls, which add up to 150,000 square meters of space. The total number of annual visitors attending the sixty or so trade fair events - everything from welding to horticulture, logistics to beach fashion - usually reaches half a million.

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Museums heavily accented commentary in the language of their choice, though this is at times drowned out by hilarious background noise that includes medieval soldiers screaming in agony. The museum’s other models include Poznań in the 10th century and a touchable model of the main square aimed at blind visitors.QH‑7, ul. Ludgardy 1, tel. (+48) 61 855 14 35, www.makieta.poznan.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 17zł. Y­N MUSEUM OF ARMAMENTS See Citadel Park, p.70.QH‑3, Park Cytadela, tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl.

Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5zł.

Tue free. Tickets bought either here or at the Poznań Army Museum are valid for both museums. Y­N NATIONAL MUSEUM A large and excellent museum with a rich collection of modern Polish art (including interesting Impressionist works) in the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian, Dutch, and Flemish paintings in the connected old building. The museum also holds the largest collection of Spanish art (including Zurbaran and Ribera) in Poland and plenty of Polish art from the 16th century onwards.

In addition, a Monet painting stolen in 2000 was recently recovered and is back on display. Selected paintings have extensive English explanations about the artist and topic.

QH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. (+48) 61 856 80 00, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From June 16 open 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.

Admission 12/1-8zł, Sat free. Y­N PHARMACY MUSEUM One of the smallest museums in Poznań, and certainly the trickiest to find – go through the courtyard, ring the doorbell then climb to the second floor. The series of rooms here are filled with rusty pots, scales, vials and cast iron mortars from the 17-19th centuries. While once you’d find yourself wandering around in ignorance, the museum now offers small guides in English, German, and French. One room has been designed to mimic a 19th century pharmacy complete with a box for morphine - while another includes over 1,200 rare medical books, a stuffed alligator and an inmate’s uniform recovered from Mathausen.QH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 11, tel. (+48) 798 19 59 88, www.woia. pl. Open Tue, Wed, Fri only 09:00 - 15:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission free.

POZNAŃ ARMY MUSEUM See Citadel Park, p.71.QI‑4, Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. (+48) 663 86 64 14, www.wmn. poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.

Admission 8/4zł. Tue free. Tickets bought either here or at the Museum of Armaments are valid for both museums. Y­N iyp.me/polandblog

INEA STADIUM Originally built in 1980, when Poznań was chosen to host the EURO2012 football championship, the city’s stadium was redeveloped rather than completely reconstructed, and capacity raised from 27,000 to 43,090, at an investment of €160 million. Today the home of popular local side Lech Poznań, INEA Stadium is one of the top stadiums in Europe, featuring covered seating throughout, plus all the service points you would expect at a modern sports complex, including the rather splendid ‘12 Sports Bar & Restaurant.’

Host to large-scale events throughout the year, the stadium has also become a bit of a tourist attraction with 45min-1hr guided tours available in Polish, English, German and French, during which you’ll get a chance to experience the changing rooms that Lech Poznań call home, the Presidential boxes, press room, conference room, the Hall of Fame, and, of course, the pitch itself; check their website for exact tour times and prices. Getting there is easy - just catch tram no.

13 from ‘Pl. Wielkopolski’, getting off at ‘INEA Stadion’.

Qul. Bułgarska 17 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 886 30 31, www.ineastadion.pl. Tours start at 10:30, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00 Mon-Fri, and 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 15:00 on the weekends. From April additional tours willl be available at 17:30 and 19:00 Mon-Fri. Admission 17/10zł. Kids under 5 free. Y March – June 2018

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Museums BREWERY TOURS & PUB

BREWERY TOURS & PUB LECH BROWARY WIELKOPOLSKI The Poznań Brewery - one of the largest in PL, and producers of Lech, Tyskie, Żubr, and Redds - lies on the outskirts of the city and is a must for beer aficionados.

There is no minimum number of people required for a tour, so you can happily book by yourself, but they do ask that you make an appointment the day before, or at very least on the morning of your planned visit. Despite this, our unannounced arrival presented no significant problems, other than having to wait half an hour in the bar (our preferred habitat) while a guide was rustled up.

The two-hour tour, available in English and German, is both informative and thorough, and guided by employees of the brewery chosen for their experience and interest in the brewing process. The brewery itself, dating from 1980, is fairly impressive and thoroughly modern. The first hour of the tour consists of a waltz through the production process, fermentation and mashing, as well as the usual guff about water purity and the like. The most striking thing about the production plant is the lack of humans and the sheer amount of sparkling steel and technology. For your second hour you’ll be whisked off to an exhibition detailing the history of Wielkopolska breweries. Later, have your photo taken inside a huge can of Lech, which you can then instantly email to all of your friends, or get involved in the bottling process which is guaranteed to bring out the child engineer in everyone. The tour finishes with a wellearned beer, which you can choose from their portfolio of brands, and you of course exit through the gift shop.

To get to the brewery take tram 16 from ‘Most Teatralny’ (E-6) or 18 from ‘Rondo Kaponiera’ to ‘Szwajcarska’ and you can’t miss the brewery opposite the M1 shopping centre, as it has three huge towers draped in bright green Lech flags. Alternatively a taxi ride from the centre will set you back about 25zł.Qul. Szwajcarska 11 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 667 74 60, www.zwiedzaniebrowaru.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun, Tours start every 2 hours from 10:00 onwards with the last tour at 18:00. You should book a day in advance. Admission 25/20zł; groups over 20 people 23zł per person. Y 64 Poznań In Your Pocket

POZNAŃ BAMBER MUSEUM Learn about the Bamber people, ethnic Germans from Bamberg who settled in Poznań in the 18th century, inside a mildly interesting museum that includes a 19th century timber house once owned by a wealthy Bamber farmer.

Inside displays include old bonnets, looms, paintings, clothing, and timber furniture – everything you’d expect in an ethnographic museum - but very little written information.QJ‑8, ul. Mostowa 7/9, tel. (+48) 605 62 16 11, www.bambrzy.poznan.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 10:00 14:00. Admission free. U POZNAŃ CROISSANT MUSEUM Considering how much of a Poznań trademark St. Martin’s croissants are, it’s surprising that a museum dedicated to them has only just recently popped up in the city. The Croissant Museum hosts numerous daily and weekly shows, one of which is in English and takes place at 13:45 SatSun during off-season (daily from July until September); it includes a multimedia presentation, legends, a tour of the historic museum building, a chance to bake croissants using traditional tools, and - of course - a tasting.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 41/2 (entrance from ul. Klasztorna 23), tel. (+48) 690 07 78 00, www.rogalowemuzeum.pl. Closed Mon. Admission 18zł, 16zł/person for families. Y WIELKOPOLSKA MARTYRS MUSEUM One of 18 forts built by the Prussians in the 1870s to protect Poznań’s perimeter, ‘Fort VII’ gained notoriety when it was used as a Gestapo penal camp between 1939 and 1944. At least 18,000 Polish prisoners were processed here, of which 4,500 were murdered, though other estimates have the death toll as high as 20,000. The windswept grassy grounds make for a thought-provoking walk, along which visitors will see the ‘death wall’ - where up to seven prisoners were executed daily during Nazi rule, as well as dark underground tunnels used as makeshift gas chambers. Elsewhere a vaulted brick room holds a small but haunting display that includes a guillotine, an execution block, truncheons, whips, and arrest warrants. The personal effects of prisoners have also been preserved, including hand-written letters, playing cards, rosaries, and identity papers. Chillingly graffiti etched into the walls by prisoners can still be discerned, the writing framed with red and white ribbons. Reaching Fort VII is not an easy task, however. It’s found in the western

Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum

Photo by Craig Broadbent

iyp.me/poznan

Museums suburbs, so your best bet is a taxi, with reputable drivers charging around 20-22zł for the journey.QAl. Polska (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 848 31 38, www.wmn.poznan.pl.

Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. also: Admission 6/3zł. Tue free. Y­N WIELKOPOLSKA MILITARY MUSEUM Situated inside a brutal communist-era pavilion, the Military Museum documents the history of the Polish military from the 11th century onwards. Starting with scythes and halberds the collection includes the armour of winged hussars, sabres, muskets and cannons, as well as portraits of Polish military commanders and famous moments in their history. The unwieldy musket ‘kolowy’ is a particularly impressive effort, and surely completely useless in combat. The 20th century section features grenades, compasses and medical kits, and the upstairs is devoted to the Wielkopolska Uprising, with medals, uniforms and postcards from the era. The collection was decimated during WWII, with the only surviving item being a fragment of Wojciech Kossak’s 1901 painting, The Battle of the Pyramids.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 9, tel. (+48) 61 852 67 39, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From June 16 open 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.

Admission 7/1-5zł. Sat free. Y­N

Find out how beer is made in one of

the most modern breweries in Europe.

The tour will be completed by having a drink of

Wielkopolska Uprising Museum

WIELKOPOLSKA UPRISING MUSEUM Primarily chronicling the 1918-191 Wielkopolska Uprising (though the exhibition starts at the time of partition) this museum occupies a rebuilt structure that once served as home to the Royal Guard. A big renovation ended in December 2017, taking the exhibition from a series of artifacts to a modern multimedia creation on par with the Silesian Museum in Katowice or the Warsaw Uprising Museum in the nation’s capital (though much smaller, of course). Downstairs is a mish-mash of weapons, uniforms, reconstructed bunkers and trenches, and vintage photographs, which look great but fail to convey much meaningful information; the historical info is all upstairs, where you can also take a picture dressed as a Wielkopolska soldier.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 61 853 19 93, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł. Tue free. Y­N iyp.me/polandblog

You will learn what wort is and what copper tuns are used for.

We are open

Monday to Saturday, 10 am to 6 pm tel. +48 61 66 77 460, e-mail: swiatlecha@kp.pl ul. Szwajcarska 11, 61-285 Poznań

www.zwiedzaniebrowaru.pl

cold Lech Beer

March – June 2018

65

Ostrów Tumski

Enjoying the sun while sketching the Poznań Cathedral. | Photo by Łukasz Gdak

Just north-east of the centre of Poznań sits Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island) - the island where Poznań was founded, and “where Poland began” in the words of Pope John Paul II. According to the prolific legend, three Slav brothers known as Lech, Czech and Rus met on this tiny island after not seeing each other for many years. To commemorate their reunion the brothers named the place ‘Poznać,’ after the Polish word for ‘to meet.’ From there the island thrived, with a castle erected in the 9th century and Ostrów Tumski becoming a major centre of the Piast state. More than a millennium ago one of Poland’s first rulers, Mieszko I, ushered the country into Catholicism here and soon after the first bishopric was established in 968. The first iteration of the Cathedral of Poznań was built in the second half of the 10th century, and in the island’s thousand-year history it has been home to kings and bishops alike. Remains of 19th century Prussian fortifications are still visible on the Cybina riverside, easily viewable from the Jordan Bridge (I-3). In more recent times the Communists showed their disdain for the Catholic Church’s heavy presence in Poznań by building a road across the island that bisected the Archbishop’s garden (what jerks!).

A trip to Ostrów Tumski not only makes a peaceful respite from the tackiness and tourist noise of Stary Rynek, but also serves as an important crash course on early Polish history and Poznań’s role in the country’s birth as a nation. Taking that task on as its very mission, in fact, is the new Porta Posnania Centre, which straddles the river (with its own bridge) between Ostrów Tumski and Śródka, and should be considered the mandatory starting point for all visitors before carrying on to the magnificent Poznań Cathedral itself.

66 Poznań In Your Pocket

PORTA POSNANIA INTERACTIVE HERITAGE CENTRE OF CATHEDRAL ISLAND Opened in early 2014, this modern culture complex symbolically connects Poznań’s two oldest districts Ostrów Tumski and Śródka - via a covered ‘skywalk’ bridge between the main exhibition building and the Cathedral Lock - a restored section of the former Prussian river fortifications. The main building is actually on the Śródka side of the Cybina River, and presents the fascinating history of the area from medieval times to the modern day, emphasising its importance to Polish national identity along the way, via an excellent audioguide and interactive multimedia displays designed for the entire family. The touring route concludes by leading visitors across the ‘skywalk’ straight into Ostrów Tumski itself, making this the ideal starting point for exploring the district. The audioguides are an extra charge, but are intended to be used to explore not just the Centre, but the entire district. Available in English, German, French, Spanish, Czech, and Russian, there are three specially designed audiotour routes - one for individuals, one for groups, and one for families - that make the experience worthwhile for everyone, especially kids. Topping it off is a souvenir shop and a lovely rooftop terrace (open during the warm season only) that offers unique views of Poznań Cathedral and the surrounding area. Highly recommended.

QL‑6, ul. Gdańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 647 76 34, www. bramapoznania.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 19:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.

Admission for the permanent exhibition 18/12zł. Family ticket (up to 5 people) 36zł. Group tickets (up to 10 people) 11zł per person. Audio guide 5/3zł. U iyp.me/poznan

o Ostrów Tumski

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© OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.

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The interior is a trove of sacral and historical treasures, surrounded by twelve different chapels, including the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, which has several outstanding examples of Renaissance art (the tombstones of the Górka family and Bishop Benedykt Izbieński, to be specific) and the Baroque altar houses a miraculous crucifix brought to the Cathedral from the former Wrocławska town gate. The Golden Chapel was designed as the mausoleum of the first Polish monarchs and houses the sarcophagi of Kings Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry; the two kings are also depicted in a bronze monument together, above which is a painting by January Suchodolski showing Mieszko I, the instigator of Catholicism in Poland, destroying pagan idols.

The chapel is indeed thoroughly golden, but to fully admire the glitz you must drop a coin into an absurd contraption, whereupon the illumination will come on.

The eye-catching high altar at the centre of the Cathedral is a 14th/15th polyptych depicting Our Lady surrounded by 14 female saints, while the outer wings feature eight paintings depicting the Passion of the Christ. The Cathedral’s lavish Baroque pulpit is equally stunning and dates to 1720.

Also worth noting are the Cathedral’s five Gothic and early Renaissance bronze tomb slabs, which originated at the iyp.me/polandblog

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POZNAŃ CATHEDRAL The most stunning site on Ostrów Tumski is certainly Peter & Paul Cathedral, more commonly called ‘Poznań Cathedral,’ which ‘Cathedral Island’ takes its name from. Originally erected way, way back in 968, this was the first cathedral in Poland, and has had a storied history. As it was razed, rebuilt, and remodelled numerous times over the centuries, each resulted in the addition of a new architectural style: a 1622 fire led to a Baroque finish, while a 1722 fire ushered in a change to neo-Classicism. During the 1945 battle to liberate Poznań, 65 percent of the Cathedral again burned down, exposing the building’s buried Gothic elements and leading to its restoration in the style visitors see today.

Reformist St. Kazimierz Monastery

famed Nuremburg workshop of Herman and Peter Vischer.

The slabs were originally on the Cathedral floor to cover the entrances to tombs, but were later mounted on pillars and chapel walls. Stolen during the war, the slabs were returned to Poznań in 1993 and are back on display.

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Visit the vestry to request entry to the crypt, where you’ll see evidence of the pre-Romanesque and Romanesque versions of the Cathedral, and a 10th century baptismal font most likely used to baptise the first Polish sovereign and his subjects. Excavations here also unearthed two tombs, most likely of the first Polish monarchs Mieszko I and King Bolesław Chrobry. The second crypt houses an exhibition of artefacts found during the excavation, and it also leads to the crypt of the Poznań archbishops. Be aware that while the lights in the crypt work for free (no coins!), they are motion-activated, so if you stand and look too long, you’ll suddenly end up in the dark.QK‑6, Ostrów Tumski 17, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra.archpoznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Crypt closed on Sundays. No visiting during mass please. Crypt entrance 3.50/2.50zł, rest of the Cathedral free.

Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre of Cathedral Island

Courtesy of TRAKT Center for Cultural Tourism

March – June 2018

67

Ostrów Tumski ŚRÓDKA

Once you’ve explored Ostrów Tumski, the next natural step is to cross the red Jordan Bridge over into the ancient - and irresistibly cute - Śródka neighbourhood.

Once its own town, Śródka was named in honour of its weekly Wednesday market (‘Środa’ means ‘Wednesday’ in Polish), and records suggest the small enclave had urban features and its own autonomous government as early as the mid-1200s. The presence of Dominican monks, along with the regular market, gave Śródka prominence in the area, which unfortunately didn’t last long; the monks picked up and moved across the Warta River, and Przemysł II (who subsequently became King of Poland) turned the city over to the control of the Bishopric in the 13th century. Suddenly reduced to the role of supplier to Ostrów Tumski, Śródka would continue to slide in prominence as the nearby city of Poznań grew. Śródka had a revitalization of sorts in the 17th century when orders of Phillippines and Reformists swept in and established churches and residences in the city, yet Śródka was nonetheless absorbed into Poznań in 1800. During Prussian times the city was part of a fortified zone that didn’t improve its fate, nor did the regular occurrence of floods and fires. During World War II much of the city’s centre at Rynek Śródecki (the location around St. Margaret’s Church) was destroyed, and the arrival of the People’s Republic of Poland, which slapped a garish highway across the Archbishop’s gardens and Ostrów Tumski, didn’t improve the area either. But much like Ostrówek, Śródka is slowly experiencing a noticeable revitalization.

CHURCH OF THE VIRGIN MARY This small Gothic church was built in 1432-1448 and is modelled on the West Pomeranian building style, with a three-nave hall, star vaulting, and polychromatic decorations. The altar was designed by Wacław Taranczewski in 1954. The adjoining building with the crowstep gables is a Late Gothic Psalteria, dating to 1518, which contained flats for the clergy. Unfortunately the church is closed for renovation until late 2019, so it is presently impossible to get inside.QK‑6, ul. Panny Marii, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra.archpoznan.pl.

ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM Adjacent to the Cathedral is the large Lubrański Academy building, once home to Bishop Jan Lubrański’s institute of higher learning and today the Museum of the Archdiocese.

The first floor is devoted to temporary exhibits, while the next two floors are filled with all manner of religious art and relics, including the Sword of Saint Peter, numerous statues and paintings of the Madonna, Jesus, and various saints, plus well-preserved robes and heavily-bejewelled rings from Poznan’s long line-up of bishops.QK‑6, ul.

Lubrańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum. poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10/7zł, family ticket 17zł. Y­N GENIUS LOCI ARCHEOLOGICAL PARK Genius Loci gives a different view on Poznań’s medieval genesis by unearthing, reconstructing, and offering insight into the lives of those early individuals who inhabited the island one thousand years ago. Explore multimedia displays and documentary films, and brave the glass walkways while peering down at the city’s original walls and embankments. The audioguide (included in the price) comes in both Polish and English and helps explain how Poznań took shape centuries ago.QK‑6, ul. Ks. I. Posadzego 3, tel. (+48) 61 852 21 67, www.muzarp. poznan.pl/rezerwat. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł, family ticket 10zł. Sun free. Y

There are some surprisingly good eats to be found here - our all-time favourite quirky eatery is Raj (p.30), which has some of the most unique decor around, complete with a mini cinema; Wspólny Stół (p.42) combines a community feel with a modern ambience, while Na Winklu (p.40) offers must-try traditional Polish pierogi with some exciting non-traditional fillings.

Genius Loci Archeological Park

68 Poznań In Your Pocket

MOs810/pl.wikipedia.org/CC BY-SA 3.0

iyp.me/poznan

Citadel Park

The Museum of Armaments in Fort Winiary

Just north of Poznań’s Old Town sits Winiary Hill and 89 hectares of picture-perfect green space known as Citadel Park. Much like any coveted location in Poland, this scenic overlook has a long history that involves multiple name changes, military battles and even some old-fashioned mystery. For visitors, the park offers not only beautiful promenades and leafy city escapes, but also a plethora of monuments, museums and historical tales.

The hill itself didn’t become notable until Prussia took over Poland in 1793 and Poznań suddenly found itself in a strategic location on the Prussian-Russian border, less than 300km from Berlin. A fort seemed in order, and design responsibilities were given over to the exasperatinglynamed General Carl Wilhelm Georg von Grolman. Work began in 1828 after moving two villages - Winiary and Bonin - to make room, and continued over the next decade.

The result was an impressive polygonal brick fortress with 1.3-1.8 metre-thick walls, observation towers, artillery decks and even a moat, making it the central element of the city’s defences.

Despite the efforts that went into the construction, and seemingly opportune wars with Denmark, Austria and France, the fort saw little military action, instead serving as a military prison throughout the 19th century. By the time WWI arrived, the fort was too outdated for modern warfare and played no role until it was captured by insurgents during the Wielkopolska Uprising in 1918, after which it iyp.me/polandblog

was home to Polish army units throughout the inter-war years. When Nazi Germany occupied Poland in 1939 the fort returned to its role as a POW camp (British, Russian and Polish soldiers ended up here) until it was thrust into the history books as the final Nazi stronghold during the Battle of Poznań in 1945, finally captured by the Soviets on February 23, 1945.

After the war, the ravaged and obsolete fort was largely dismantled, contributing its bricks to help rebuild local housing estates and decimated cities like Warsaw. Yet plenty of the fort still remains, and those intrepid enough to wander off the park’s paths will be rewarded with a close-up look at history (this is where a guide comes in handy, as ours pointed out locations of strategic Russian movements, how the fort was breached, and even the charred bricks where a group of the last German soldiers evidently met their end). Under communism, the fort and surrounding area were given a new strategic purpose when Winiary Hill was turned into the chummy ‘Monument Park of Polish-Russian Friendship and Brotherhood’ in 1962, and a Russian cemetery and Red Army memorial soon found a home here. Re-dubbed ‘Citadel Hall’ in 1992 after the regime finally fell, today visitors will find this former military stronghold is home to art installations, monuments, several museums, cemeteries and large outdoor events. There are few better ways to spend an afternoon in Poznań than exploring all there is to see and do in the city’s largest park.

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Citadel Park WHAT TO SEE BRITISH MILITARY CEMETERY

Citadel Park hosts several cemeteries, but the one typically of most interest to tourists is British Military Cemetery (also known as the Commonwealth Cemetery). Why? It’s here that you’ll find the graves of several of the men involved in what is now known as “The Great Escape” (it wasn’t just a movie folks!). In addition to the 174 servicemen from the First World War (all of whom died in various parts of Poland as prisoners of war) there are also 283 World War II servicemen buried in the cemetery. Many of those graves are airmen who died in bombing operations over what is now the Polish city of Szczecin, but there are also several graves of soldiers involved in the mass escape from Stalag Luft 3 in Żagań, a feat depicted in the popular Hollywood film, The Great Escape.

Following their daring escape, most of the fugitives were captured by the Nazis, executed and their ashes were buried in the local cemetery at Sagan/Żagań, before being later moved to the military cemetery in Poznań where they can be found today. To locate them enter the cemetery at al. Armii Poznań (H-4); turn right and you’ll see a large white cross and the graves of most of the murdered. The man considered to be the mastermind of the escape is Squadron Leader Roger Bushell, renamed “Bartlett” in the film and portrayed by Richard Attenborough. Keep the name change in mind when looking for Bushell’s grave, and be sure to sign the visitor’s book that can be found inside a small door on the large white cross monument.QH‑4, Citadel Park. Open from dawn till dusk.

GETTING THERE If the weather is nice there’s no reason not to walk to Citadel Park from the Rynek. The stroll is just under 2km and should take 25-30 minutes. Those who prefer an (arguably) quicker route can grab bus number 51 from ‘Solna’ or either 74 or 90 from ‘Wielka’, getting off at ‘Garbary’ each time (just two stops away).

70 Poznań In Your Pocket

HEADLESS FIGURES Unveiled as part of Poznań’s 750th birthday celebrations in 2002, this massive troop of towering, headless cast iron figures marching aimlessly across Citadel Park is officially titled “Unrecognised” (“Nierozpoznani”). 112 in all, each measuring 2 metres tall, the odd installation is the work of local arts grad and international art star Magdalena Abakanowicz, who is keeping mum on its meaning. Those with ties to Chicago might recognise a similar installation in Grant Park, while a few more of Abakanowicz’s headless fright patrol can be found wandering lost in the courtyard of the Imperial Castle.QI‑3, Park Cytadela.

Archiwum Urzędu Miasta Poznania, fot. D. Krakowiak

MONUMENT TO THE HEROES OF THE POZNAŃ CITADEL One of the most noticeable features of Citadel Park is the Soviet Obelisk located prominently at the top of the grand staircase as you enter the park from Aleja Armii Poznań (H-4). The giant Socialist Realism column is dedicated to the Russian soldiers killed during the 1945 siege of the fort, and it’s most interesting aspect is perhaps the one you can no longer see: the large red star affixed to the top which disappeared in the dead of night after the fall of communism in Poland in 1989. Official complaints by the Russian Embassy to track down the star and its thieves were, unsurprisingly, largely ignored by police, and for years the public was left to speculate what became of the red emblem (a rumour that the star was filled with jewels proved to be one popular urban myth). In recent years, however, a local journalist looking into the mystery was able to swiftly solve it: local firemen had removed the star using their rescue ladders. They fessed up and turned it over without consequence to the city, which has plans to restore it and eventually put it on display at the Historical Museum of Poznań.QH‑4, Park Cytadela.

MUSEUM OF ARMAMENTS The remains of this Prussian fort (which was used as a war laboratory to produce gunpowder and shells during World War II) prove to be the perfect location for the Museum of Armaments, which features displays of various weaponry and ammunition as well as photos of battles from Poznań’s history. Most interesting for military buffs however is the outdoor exhibition laden with a whole host of war machinery including a T-34 tank, a ‘Katyusha’ rocket iyp.me/poznan

Citadel Park launcher, bombers and a MIG-15.QH‑3, Park Cytadela, tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł.

Ticket also valid for the nearby Poznań Army Museum.

Y­N

POZNAŃ ARMY MUSEUM Recently re-opened after a long renovation, the museum provides visitors with the chance to learn more about the city’s military history, with a particular focus on the Second World War and the inter-war period. A large number of items from these times are on display, including various newspaper cuttings, weapons, photos and uniforms. But other eras are covered too, with some artefacts - such as old bullets and army storage devices - dating back as far as 1897. Note that the ticket also includes entrance to the Museum of Armaments, also located in Citadel Park.QI‑4, Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. (+48) 663 86 64 14, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/5zł, Tue free; ticket also valid for the nearby Museum of Armaments.

Y­N ROSE GARDEN Certainly one of the nicest and most popular parts of Citadel Park, particularly in fine weather, is the ‘rosarium.’

Consisting of six landscaped terraces planted with different roses, trees, and shrubs descending to a small lake at its centre, this is perhaps Poz’s most romantic corner, as evidenced by all the couples getting very cosy on the numerous benches scattered about. Go for a stroll, stop to smell the roses, and maybe sneak in a snog on the side.QH‑2, Park Cytadela.

Photo by Andrzej Otrębski - Wikipedia - CC BY-SA 3.0

iyp.me/polandblog

1945 BATTLE OF POZNAŃ Sadly, Poznań’s city centre shared the same fate as many Polish cities in the tragic events of WWII. Nearly 90% destroyed, the city had to be painstakingly reconstructed in the postwar years. While bombings were responsible for much of the structural damage, the real nail to the coffin came in the shape of the 1945 Battle of Poznań, a month-long confrontation between the advancing Soviet army and the retreating Nazis. The city had just been declared by Hitler to be a Festung - a stronghold where garrisons mounted last-ditch stands in the hopes of holding out behind advancing Soviet lines and disrupting supply transports and lines of communication.

40,000 German troops, including fortress garrison soldiers, regular field soldiers, Volkssturm, SS, and Police soldiers, barricaded themselves in 19th-century fortifications built during Prussian rule, including the Fort Winiary citadel. On January 24th, 100,000 Soviet forces led by General Chuikov moved in and encircled the city, beginning to attack and reduce the fortifications.

Systematically pushed into a smaller and smaller perimeter, by February 12th the Germans only held the citadel. Six days later the final assault began. Faced with a deep ditch and high rampart, the Soviet troops had no better option than to use ladders to cross (in a bizarrely Medieval twist), but once they did, fire opened from the citadel’s redoubts. It took the Soviets three days to neutralise the redoubts and build an impromptu bridge, which allowed tanks and heavy machinery to cross into the main grounds on February 22nd. At that point, luck had most definitely ran out for Nazi General Gonell and his army; Gonell committed suicide by shooting himself in the head, and the remaining 12,000 German soldiers were turned over to the victors by General Mattern. Today the Poznań Citadel Park is a historic site featuring military cemeteries, memorials, and two museums: the Museum of Armaments and the Poznań Army Museum.

The Old Town Hall had seen better days

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Jewish Poznań

The Old Synagogue/’Swimagogue’ at ul. Wroniecka 11A

The history of Jews in Poznań dates back to the first days of the city, though like so many other towns in Central and Eastern Europe this rich heritage was all but extinguished with the horrors that followed Hitler’s rise to power.

Although first recorded mention of a Jewish presence is dated to 1364, it is commonly accepted that the first Jewish settlers arrived in the 13th century when Prince Bolesław the Pious issued a decree granting Jews his protection. As Poznań grew so did the Jewish population, and by the start of the 15th century it’s estimated that one in four buildings on ulica Sukiennicza - the de facto centre of the Jewish community - were occupied by Jews, a fact not lost on city planners who promptly rechristened it ‘ulica Żydowska,’ or ‘Jewish Street’ (I-6/7). An influx of German burghers and suspicious arsons marked a 15th century decline for Poznań’s Jews, though Poznań’s Jewish population stood around 3,000 in the early 17th century when racial tensions reached a nadir with the infamous 1736 trial of Rabbi Yossef, who was accused of ritual slaughter and publicly burnt at the stake.

When the city fell under Prussian jurisdiction in the 19th century, however, Jews slowly found themselves accepted into the fold. Following the Great Fire of 1803 they were allowed to live freely throughout the rest of the city and as such ties between Jews and Germans strengthened.

In fact, so solid were these relations that the Jewish community rallied around the Germans during the 19181919 Wielkopolska Uprising, a fact not forgotten by the local Poles. When Poznań was absorbed into the Polish 72 Poznań In Your Pocket

nation in 1919 the Jews found themselves once more on the hard end of local feelings, and a significant number migrated west to Germany, where they expected greater tolerance.

With WWII looming, Poznań’s Jewish population stood around 1,500 - a number that would vanish soon after the city was annexed into the Third Reich in 1939. The city was named capital of the Wartegau province, and a plan was hatched to rid the city of its Jews within three months.

Deportations began on December 11th of the same year, with Jews packed into cattle trucks bound for the ghettos of Warsaw or Lublin, and on April 15, 1940, the fascist rag Ostdeutscher Beobachter gleefully reported the removal of the Star of David from the last synagogue left standing.

Those who remained in the Poznań region were sent to a labour camp next to the city stadium where their duties primarily consisted of building roads and other backbreaking work. The camp operated until August 1943, when the decision was taken to liquidate both camp and inmates. Indeed, Poznań was something of a model Nazi city, and on October 4, 1943, Heinrich Himmler gave a sordid speech to his Nazi cronies about the extermination of the Jewish people. A small number of Jews survived in hiding, and after the war several hundred actually returned to re-settle in the city. However no effort was made by the government to re-establish Jewish culture, and the subsequent anti-Zionist policies of the post-war communist government saw the number of Jews dwindle to well under a hundred. iyp.me/poznan

Jewish Poznań THE JEWISH COMMUNITY Founded in 1999, Poznań’s Jewish community organises commemorative events and exhibitions around the city. Prayer services take place on Fridays at 19:00; contact them by email via poznan@jewish.org. pl for more information.QI‑6, ul. Stawna 10, www. poznan.jewish.org.pl.

The Nazis were meticulous in their destruction of Jewish heritage and traces of it are few and far between today.

Rather miraculously, however, Poznań’s New Synagogue (ul. Wroniecka 11A, I-6) survived the war by being converted into a swimming pool and rehabilitation centre for Wehrmacht officers. The ‘swimagogue’ (as it was cheekily known) was returned to the Jewish community in 2002, however disrepair forced its closure and plans for its restoration have stalled.

The early 19th century Jewish cemetery on ul. Głogowska was destroyed and its tombstones used to pave roads during WWII, after which the area was incorporated into the Trade Fair grounds. In recent times, however, steps have been taken to commemorate its existence with a memorial plaque on ul. Głogowska 26A (C-9), and in 2008 a ceremony took place to commemorate Rabbi Akiva Eger - commonly accepted as Poznań’s greatest rabbi. Previously a parking lot, his grave site has been turned into a grassy square named in his honour. A memorial to the victims of Poznań’s Nazi labour camp stands by the Multikino cinema (ul. Królowej Jadwigi 51, H-10), and prayer services take place each Friday at ul. Stawna 10 (I-6).

JEWISH CEMETERY Entry by previous arrangement only; call +48 726 100 199 or e-mail gekafka@jewish.org.pl to set up your visit.QC‑9, ul. Głogowska 26A.

Monument to the victims of a Poznań concentration camp, Righteous Among the Nations Square

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David Černý’s Golem statue stands right outside the National Museum (p. 63).

RABBI AKIVA EGER A prominent Jewish leader, Talmudic scholar, and authority on Jewish law, Akiva Eger was born in 1761 in one of the Siebengemeinden, the seven Jewish communities in and around Eisenstadt, Austria (now Hungary). His early years were spent studying in the Mattersdorf and Breslau (Wrocław) yeshivas, whereafter he became the dean of the yeshiva in Polish Lissa. As the story goes, Akiva would have preferred to devote himself to his Talmudic studies for the rest of his life, but there was one problem - after marrying the daughter of a wealthy, well-known Jew, he was elected rabbi of Märkisch Friedland, Prussia (now Mirosławiec, Poland). This position allegedly involved too much money and power for his liking, but he relented after much persuasion by his family, accepting the appointment in 1791. After a quarter of a century, his fame spread far enough that he was invited to serve as rabbi of then-Prussian Posen (Poznań), where he remained for 20 years, until his death in 1837. His works include notes on the Talmud and the Shulchan Aruch, the most widely consulted code of Jewish law, while stories tell of his selflessness and devotion to community, including caring for the sick during a cholera epidemic. His son Salomon succeeded him as the rabbi of Posen, serving from 1837 (or perhaps 1839) until 1852.

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Leisure

Critter-spotting at Poznań’s New Zoo (p.77) | © Radosław Maciejewski, Fotoportal

Whether you’re looking to take a break from the bustle of the Rynek or just want an excuse to stretch your legs, Poznań offers a multitude of parks, green spaces, and recreational activities to consider. First and foremost are the 89-hectare Citadel Park (see p.69) - full of leafy promenades, historical monuments and museums, and Lake Malta (p.76) - one of the most unique urban recreation areas on the continent. As such, we’ve devoted a separate section of our Leisure pages especially for all of the attractions and activities around Lake Malta’s shores, including fantastic family attractions like the New Zoo and the Maltese Baths water park and spa. Whatever you’re looking for, use the listings below to stay active in every season.

INDOOR ATTRACTIONS BLUBRY6D If you ever thought of dropping some acid with your young children, here’s the legal way to do it. Put on a pair of 3D glasses and immerse yourself in a hallucinatory, brightneon labyrinth of spastic trees, deranged mushrooms, and dizzying miscellany while listening to a narration about two Poznań legends (offered in English, Polish, German, and Spanish). Do try to stay focused, as the staff will quiz you at the end of each room - the punishment for failing, presumably, is to leave you forever wandering the LSD maze from hell. The whole experience lasts around 30 minutes, but you’re almost guaranteed to lose all sense of space and time.QI‑6, ul. Wroniecka 6, tel. (+48) 61 307 04 46, www.blubry6d.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. From May open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 17/15zł. U 74 Poznań In Your Pocket

GEARUP! Big news for all amateur aviation enthusiasts: Poland’s first full flight simulator for the general public is here! This fully functional 737NG airliner simulator has been painstakingly modelled on the real thing, with not a single button out of place, and it can all be in your hands for 15, 30, 60, or 90 minutes. And if you’re looking for something to really jazz up a boring business meeting, an important birthday, or your n-th wedding anniversary, this might just be your no. 1 bet!QH‑9, ul. Kwiatowa 2, tel. (+48) 518 39 54 84, www. gearup.aero. Open 13:30 - 21:00, Sat 10:30 - 21:00, Sun 12:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. THE OLD ZOO (STARE ZOO) One of Poland’s oldest zoos, the Old Zoo dates to 1874 and still has some picturesque old pavilions, but most of the critters have been carted off to the New Zoo on the other side of the city, and the Old Zoo has largely been reshaped as a public park. There is, however, a modern Reptile House here, where you can watch Komodo dragons strutting their stuff, pythons slithering, and caimans splashing around. It’s worth the admission price, and enjoyable to visit without the exhaustion and crowds of the New Zoo.QD‑7, ul.

Zwierzyniecka 19, tel. (+48) 61 848 08 47, www.zoo. poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. From April open 09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission free; 8/6zł for the Reptile House. Y

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Leisure OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS BOTANICAL GARDEN Located just below the southeast shore of Lake Rusałka, Poznań’s lovely Botanical Garden boasts a vast 22 hectares and over 7,000 varieties of plants from almost every kind of climate and ecosystem in the world. Impeccably maintained, the garden is both a recreational and educational park owned by the Adam Mickiewicz University in Poznań, and its history dates back to 1922 when it was only a 6 hectare plot. The park includes several greenhouses, a snazzy two-storey exhibition pavilion with a gallery, shop, and cafe, several enormous standing stones they took great trouble to bring here, and a lovely ballerina fountain designed by Margaret Węcławska - a graduate of the Poz Academy of Fine Arts. Absolutely worth visiting on a nice day, though note that it is quite popular on weekends. Getting there is a complex cocktail of trams and buses, so just take a cab.Qul. Dąbrowskiego 165 (Ogrody), tel. (+48) 61 829 20 13, www.obuam.robia.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00 in March, 09:00 - 19:00 in April, 09:00 - 20:00 from May. Admission free. U

SPA & BEAUTY CENTRUM RELAKSU VASCO DA GAIA Vasco da Gaia prides itself on having Poznań’s only isolation tank (you know, one of those floatation tanks with warm water and epsom salt), but their entire offer reveals quite a holistic approach to relaxation: there are Russian sauna treatments with Siberian herb extracts, a selection of massages (some involving chocolate and honey), a Moroccan hammam experience, weight loss programmes, physiotherapy, and psychologists specialising in stress management. All in all, if you’re in need of some serious relaxation, this is the place to try.Qul. Piłsudskiego 104, tel. (+48) 796 42 16 70, www.vascodagaia.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun. HARMONIA SPA You’ll find pretty much all you could ever need for some serious ‘R&R’ (that’s rest and relaxation) in this 500m2 beauty salon and wellness club on the 2nd floor of the Andersia Hotel. Includes a swimming pool with hydro-massage, jacuzzi, Finnish and steam sauna, gym, aerobics room, solarium, bar, and more.QG‑9, Pl. Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 667 83 00, www.spaharmonia.pl.

Wellness section open 06:30 - 22:30; Sun 08:30 - 22:30 (sauna, solarium, gym, jacuzzi). Spa open 10:00 - 22:30; Sun-Wed 10:00 - 21:30 (body treatments). Y REGATTA WELLNESS & SPA Found inside the brand new Regatta Hotel complex, the Wellness & Spa centre offers something for everyone and reinforces the old adage that “size is not important.” Yep, it’s small and cosy, but the pool and jacuzzi look as inviting as you could wish for and the separate beauty parlour, massage and gym rooms are ultra-modern and relaxing. Hotel clients get access to the gym, jacuzzi, sauna and pool for free but the competitive prices make this the perfect little retreat iyp.me/polandblog

for an afternoon of indulgence and luxury.Qul. Chojnicka 49 (Regatta Hotel, Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 502 78 78 81, www. regattahotel.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.

THAI-LAND MASSAGE Sightseeing can be hard work, and sometimes a bit of relaxation time is in order. Be it a traditional Thai foot massage, an oil massage, hot compress, or a classic full body massage, it’s all done by Thai masseuses at this splendid parlour located a leisurely ten-minute walk away from the Main Square. Monthly promotions and passes give customers a welcome discount, so do try to take advantage of those. Try a traditional Thai foot massage, an oil massage, hot compress, or a classic full body massage at this Thai parlour.QH‑8, ul. Długa 14, tel. (+48) 510 40 45 04, www.thai-land.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.

THAI SMILE MASSAGE Anyone looking to escape the raucous buzz of Poz’s city centre could do a lot worse than relaxing with a fine massage. A peaceful, modern environment (with English speaking staff ) only five minutes from the market square, Thai Smile Massage is an ideal place to forget about the day’s woes while you let one of the authentic Thai massage therapists work their wonders. Two rooms to choose from (massage room and the oil room) and a cup of tea afterwards is enough for the IYP staff to give this place the thumbs up.QG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17/4, tel. (+48) 727 90 52 96, www.thai-smile.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.

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Lake Malta ADRENALINE ALPINE COASTER A 500 metre long roller coaster filled with twisting loops (even a 360 degree twist) that hauls screaming visitors around the track at 40km per hour.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 533 31 50 55​, www.maltaski.pl. Opening hours depend on the weather. 1 ride in a 1-person cart 10zł; 3 rides 20zł. 1 ride in a 2-person cart 15zł; 3 rides 30zł.

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GETTING TO LAKE MALTA Lake Malta is situated just to the east of the city centre, and Rondo Śródka - at the lake’s northwest corner, is the best place to access it. Below are the public transport options from three main points in the centre.

Alternatively, a taxi from the centre to the north shore will cost about 30-35zł.

MALTA SKI EQUIPMENT RENTAL Rent bikes, eco-bikes, etc. in summer and skis and snowboards during the winter. Those looking for equipment for Malta Ski should visit the internal ski rental situated near the Malta Ski slopes.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 533 31 50 55​, www.maltaski.pl. Opening hours depend on the weather. Y

From the Old Town Square: Take tram number 3, 16, or 17 from either ‘Pl. Wielkopolski’ (H-6) or ‘Małe Garbary’ (I-6) to ‘Rondo Śródka’.

Of Poznań’s many lakes it’s Malta - to the east - that is the best known, and its surroundings are well worth further investigation. Formed in 1952 as a result of damming the Cybina, this 2.2km long lake is the largest man-made lake in the city, with an average depth of 3.1 metres. Surrounded by parks and woodland, it is today one of the principal recreation areas in the region - in both summer and winter - with an ice-rink, ski slope (the first in former communist Europe), a world-class regatta course, zoo, water park, and dozens of other attractions, including several historical sights. Just east of the centre, but miles from the madness of the market square, if you’re in town to decompress, head to Malta.

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MALTA SKI PONTOON HIRE Our first thought was boat rental, but nope, that would be too conventional for Lake Malta. This what happens to Poz’s 70m artificial ski slope in summer (May to the end of September to be exact) - people go speeding down it in plastic inner tubes.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 533 31 50 55​, www.maltaski. pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. 1 ride 5zł; 3 rides 10zł. Y

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MALTA SKI MINI GOLF 18 hole mini golf course overlooking Lake Malta; hours and availability weather-dependent.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 533 31 50 55​, www.maltaski.pl. Open 11:00 19:00. Admission 18/15zł. Y

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From the main train station (D-9): Take tram number 6 from the ‘Poznań Główny’ stop (walk just past the Avenida shopping centre going east) directly to ‘Baraniaka’. The journey takes about 14 minutes.

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Lake Malta ST. JOHN OF JERUSALEM CHURCH OUTSIDE THE WALL ‘Outside the wall’? A strange but accurate name that refers to St. John’s location outside the medieval defensive wall that once surrounded the city. This is the oldest standing church in Poznań and the city’s secondoldest building after the Cathedral. It was built for the Knights of Malta at the turn of the 12th century in the Romanesque style, with the nave and presbytery in a Venedic arrangement. After a fire in 1512 a star-vaulted ceiling was built over the nave, and a nave and tower were added to the north side. Age aside, the building’s main draw is a rare Late Gothic triptych from the early 16th century and its location on the shores of Lake Malta. Unfortunately the church is currently undergoing renovations, so visiting the interior is only possible 30 minutes before mass, which takes place at 7:30 and 18:30 daily.QM‑7, ul. Świętojańska 1, tel. (+48) 61 877 17 17, www.janjerozolimski.archpoznan.pl. Open during mass only for individuals, and by prior arrangement for groups.

© Dariusz Krakowiak

MALTESE BATHS Located on the north shore of Lake Malta this year-round facility offers sport pools (one Olympic-sized and another with a 10-metre diving tower), a water park (a series of 16 pools including a wave pool and children’s play pool), and 13 water slides along with two wild rivers. There is also the World of Saunas (14 saunas, two of which are outdoors, and a vapour bath) and, most recently, a full spa complex (Spa 1306) with underground thermal springs, offering therapeutic and beauty baths including Turkish Hammam and Rasul mud bath, massage, hydromassage, rehabilitation, Pollogen slimming and rejuvenating treatments, and more from the fully trained staff.QP‑8, ul. Termalna 1, tel. (+48) 61 222 61 61, www. termymaltanskie.com.pl. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 23:00; SPA open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

Prices start at 9zł for sports pools and water spark, 15zł for spa. Y

www.termymaltanskie.com.pl

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TOBOGGON RUN PEPSI Hit speeds of 50km on this summer toboggan run, a daredevil experience that twists and turns the foolish and the brave over the course of a 530 metre track. Open in the warm season, from approximately May depending on weather.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 533 31 50 55​, www. maltaski.pl. 8zł for one dash, 15zł for three. Kids under 8 free. Y

THE NEW ZOO The 116 hectare New Zoo was opened to the public in 1974 after seven years of construction. Housing over 2,000 beasts representing 140 species, it’s comprised of 60 percent pine and mixed forests with a manmade stream and string of ponds running through the grounds. In this way many of the creatures live in recreations of their natural habitats rather than concrete pens. Highlights include the modern elephant house, and circling the whole shebang is a seasonal mini-railway, meaning visitors can jump off at whatever creature cage takes their fancy.

As the zoo is located beyond the far east end of Lake Malta (not actually on the lake), during the summer you can get there by taking the Maltanka mini-railway to the last stop ‘Zwierzyniec’. If coming from the centre of Poz, take tram 8 from ‘Plac Wielkopolski’ to ‘Krańcowa’. Alternatively, a taxi from the centre costs about 30zł.Qul. Krańcowa 81 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 877 35 17, www. zoo.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. From April open 09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission Mon-Fri 18/10zł, Sat-Sun 24/12zł. Y­U March – June 2018

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Shopping

Pamiątki z Poznania (p.80).

Yes, that’s a Burberry store you see in Poznań. And Armani.

Even Versace. You can wander through the vast, awardwinning Stary Browar mall or the new Poznań City Centre spending złoty until you’ve solved the European debt crisis, but if you’re bringing gifts back to show your loved ones what a trip to Poznań is like, a Burberry bag made in London won’t cut it. That’s why we’ve made suggestions below for where to get gifts for darling that actually say, “I went to Poland.”

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN

SAVE UP TO 16%! www.globalblue.com 78 Poznań In Your Pocket

Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but note that beginning from March 2018 a new law that will eventually ban Sunday trading in Poland goes into effect. To be phased in gradually, the law initially allows normal trading days on the first and last Sundays of each month, while forcing shops to close on the intervening Sundays. There are only a few exemptions to the rule, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets and souvenir shops. The Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep on those Sunday when trade is allowed. The first Sundays when the shopping ban will be enforced are the following: March 11, 18 April 08, 15, 22 May 13, 20 June 10, 17 iyp.me/poznan

Shopping ALCOHOL You may have noticed that here in PL, it’s a bit of a drinking culture; more of a national pastime, really, compared to the country’s success at football. Indeed, nothing says ‘I’ve been to Poland’ like a suitcase of vodka (a new bride being the second hottest commodity). The Poles have been distilling and draining vodka since the early Middle Ages, and Poland can make a legitimate claim as the spirit’s primordial homeland. As such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir list, even if it’s not to your taste. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands you’ll find in fancy gift sets, but don’t miss Żubrówka (bison grass vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka) and Żołądkowa Gorzka (herbal stomach liqueur). Alcohol shops are more ubiquitous than churches and cabbage in this country, so you should have no trouble stocking up at any time of night.

BASILIUM A shop for serious beer lovers, Basilium stocks around 150 different types of the stuff, giving you a good chance to take home a few quality local flavours with a bit more character than the mass-produced brews found stocked in supermarkets and local chain stores. The friendly staff are more than happy to go through the choices with anyone looking for advice before making their purchase.QI‑7, ul. Woźna 21, tel. (+48) 790 33 37 56. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Mon 15:00 - 23:00, Tue 15:00 24:00, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.

AMBER & JEWELLERY Vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland; the country is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse.

GALERIA YES YES jewellery stores can be found throughout Poland, but this location on ul. Paderewskiego sets itself apart by being an exclusive gallery, curated by YES founder Magda Kwiatkiewicz herself, showcasing the highest achievements in artistic jewellery by Polish designers. As such, it has played a significant role in the shape and direction of the Polish jewellery market for over a decade, and in addition to their lovely commercial display cases, the exhibits held here are always worth a peek.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 851 58 48, www.galeriayes.pl. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. LILOU Pendants, charms, and delicate chains abound in this boutique-y jewellery shop staffed by immaculately-attired ladies keen to assist and advise potential buyers. Glamorous but not intimidating, this is the place to browse miniature shiny trinkets during an afternoon shopping break. Also located at the Posnania Shopping Centre (ul. Pleszewska 1, Mon-Thu and Sat 10:00-22:00, Fri 10:00-23:00, Sun 10:00-21:00).QG‑7, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. (+48) 797 33 43 52, www.lilouparis. com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. iyp.me/polandblog

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Shopping MARKETS

ŚWIAT BURSZTYNU Major amber retailer and wholesaler with over 25 years of experience to their name - that’s a lot in a country that only returned to a market economy in 1989. Now with two locations, the second being the newly-opened Posnania Shopping Centre located at ul. Pleszewska 1.QG‑9, ul.

Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 66 88/(+48) 607 07 07 33, www.desta-amber. com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

ART & ANTIQUES Poznań’s open-air markets are the best places to get cheap local produce and some of the only places in the centre where you can buy vegetables that aren’t white or in jars. Add to that meats, cheeses, spices, baked goods, doorknobs, dog leashes, pagers, potholders and literally anything else you can think of and you’ve got yourself a nifty cultural experience as well. Practise your “Proszę” and point skills at any of the unique shopping environments listed below, and remember that haggling and attempting to pay with large bills will both be met with disdain.

JEŻYCE MARKET One of Poznań’s most historic and centrally located markets is just west of the Old Town on historic Rynek Jeżycki. Established in 1891, this was once one of the city’s finest market squares, as evidenced by the faded glory of some of the intricate Art Nouveau facades on the tenement buildings that surround it. Lately the area has been going through a bit of a resurgence, and though the market itself may be a bit tatty and you can hardly expect English to be spoken or understood, the 400 merchant stalls here are still a good place to pick up fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as peruse clothing and other random goods you might be wiser not to take home. You certainly won’t beat the prices.QC‑6, Rynek Jeżycki, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open 06:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. WIELKOPOLSKA MARKET With Poznań’s historic main market square apparently not big enough, fruit and veg merchants have been relegated to this 1600 square metre plaza only a few minutes walk away. Renovated and generally more orderly than some of Poz’s other open-air markets, this is the best place for fresh produce in the Old Town. Among its 200 tent-covered stalls you’ll also find copious amounts of meat, cheese, nuts, and other food products, fresh-cut flowers, pots and pans, socks and sweatpants, sweets, screws, staplers, toilet scrubbers, and whatever else you can imagine.QH‑6, Pl. Wielkopolski, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open 06:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. 80 Poznań In Your Pocket

ANTYKWARIAT Solid collection of antiques collected by Piotr Sobisiak. On offer is furniture, porcelain, silver cutlery, pitchers, jewellery and other pre-war treasures.QG‑7, ul. Kantaka 10, tel. (+48) 61 851 88 10, www.gem-art.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. ANTYKWARIAT (ANTIQUE SHOP) Specialises in old toys, technological relics, pre-war postcards, and other special keepsakes.QI‑7, ul. Klasztorna 1, tel. (+48) 61 851 75 13. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. ANTYKWARIAT NAUKOWY A vintage bookseller that rewards those who are patient enough to dig through boxes of old postcards, prints, and telegrams. It’s easy to lose track of time while meandering along the well-stocked shelves.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 3/5, tel. (+48) 61 852 63 12, www.antykwariat.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS CEPELIA A leading chain of souvenir shops selling native arts and handicrafts.QI‑7, ul. Klasztorna 21, tel. (+48) 61 852 58 14, www.cepelia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Sun. HANDMADE For souvenirs which are both authentic and actually useful, hand-painted pottery is the way to go; easily recognisable across Poland, these beauties from the Bolesławiec Pottery Factory have a trademark look and a tradition dating back to the 14th century. We recommend skipping the tacky tourist kitsch and considering Handmade your one-stop-shop for gifts to bring back home. Whisper “IYP” to the cashier for a special 5% discount.QF‑7, ul. Mielżyńskiego 16, tel. (+48) 61 284 17 04. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. NEW PAMIĄTKI Z POZNANIA Souvenirs galore - magnets, t-shirts, postcards (oh the nostalgia), handicrafts, mugs, and wonderful Bolesławiec ceramics should take care of your most pressing souvenir needs.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 25A, tel. (+48) 517 59 41 38.

Open 10:00 - 18:00. iyp.me/poznan

Lilou Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang.

Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand.

Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls.

Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry.

POZNAŃ, 21 Wrocławska Street, POSNANIA SHOPPING & LIFESTYLE 1 Pleszewska Street

lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

Lilou Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

Shopping SALON POSNANIA A wide selection of souvenirs connected with Poznań including lots of stuff with the most popular symbols of Poznań. Pick up t-shirts, cups, ornaments, post cards, and the like all associated with the head-banging goats for instance. You’ll also find the most popular selection of books and albums relating to Poznań, Wielkopolska and Poland in foreign languages as well as locally produced art.

A smaller selection of the above is also available at Stary Rynek 59/60 (I-7) and at the airport.QG‑7, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. (+48) 61 854 07 54, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Y

FASHION & ACCESSORIES MOLIERA 2 BAZAR POZNAŃSKI Located in the gorgeously renovated Bazar Hotel, this luxury fashion boutique features women’s clothing, shoes, and accessories from top designer brands like Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Kenzo, Burberry, Moncler, Manolo Blahnic, Jimmy Choo, Simonetta Ravizza, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Aquazzura, Balmain, Isabel Marant, and Alexander McQueen. Shop online to find even more swag and savings.QH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 10, tel. (+48) 61 855 19 54, www.Moliera2.com. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.

RABARBAR Inspired by traditional Polish handicraft and designs, Rhubarb is now a country-wide chain selling modern women’s clothing with elements of embroidery and folksy patterns.QC‑6, ul. Kraszewskiego 17, tel. (+48) 885 55 22 85, www.rabarbar.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

FOOD & SWEETS PRODUKTY BENEDYKTYŃSKIE This shop, set up by and in support of the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey, sells such an astounding variety of products - cheese, jam, wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two eyebrows over how they find the time. All the products are completely natural, without pigment, and unilaterally excellent. They make excellent gifts and can even be purchased through their multilingual website - and yes, the beer is every bit as good you’d expect.QH‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 12/2A, tel. (+48) 734 16 91 50, www.produktybenedyktynskie.com.pl. Open 09:00 17:00, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

SHOPPING MALLS AVENIDA POZNAŃ Shopping ‘centres’ simply don’t get any more ‘central’ than this modern marvel located right next to Poznań’s impressive new train station (lovingly dubbed ‘the breadbox’); as such, it couldn’t possibly be better connected to public transport or easier to get to and from.

Featuring over 200 retail spaces, including Saturn, H&M, 82 Poznań In Your Pocket

TK Maxx, Empik, and Peek & Cloppenburg, Avenida Pozań - formerly Poznań City Center - also offers plenty of cafes, restaurants and fast food eateries, as well as a multi-level parking garage. Opened in October 2013, if nothing else this mega-complex is worth checking out just to appreciate how much Poznań has developed and progressed over the last several years.QE‑9, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 61 627 01 90, www.avenidapoznan.com. Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

FACTORY POZNAŃ This outlet centre, one of just a few establishments of this type in Europe, is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over other shopping malls. Recognisable names among the brands include Puma, Calzedonia, Desigual, Gino Rossi, Mango, Aldo, Guess, and more. To get here, take tram number 76 from ‘Pl. Bernardyński’ (the square just southeast of Park Chopina, I-8) to ‘Os. Dębina’ and change to bus 610, getting off at ‘Luboń / Factory Outlet’.Qul. Dębiecka 1, Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 652 30 30, www.factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

POSNANIA Poznań’s new shopping behemoth swung its doors open in late 2016 in a style so lavish, even Eva Longoria couldn’t keep away (yes, it’s not everyday that random Polish shopping malls manage to invite A-list celebrities).

Inspired perhaps by the celebrated Stary Browar shopping complex, which manages to seamlessly blend retail space with creative contemporary art, Posnania collaborates with Pop-up Galerie 208 to integrate unique sculptures and installations into its layout. The most eye-catching of those is David Mesguich’s Lucie, the sculpture of a little girl symbolising the future, located outside near the main entrance. Oh, and the shopping? They’ve got brands like Aldo, Forever 21, Guess, MAC, Sephora, Steve Madden, Pinko, and many more.QM‑10, ul. Pleszewska 1, tel. (+48) 61 628 65 27, www.posnania.eu. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

STARY BROWAR Housed in an old brewery dating from 1844, the awardwinning Stary Browar complex has been dubbed an art, leisure, and shopping extravaganza, and its success a sign of Poznań’s economic renaissance. Its opening in 2003 also marked a successful move away from out-of-town developments, and a new trend for inner-city regeneration projects. Originally home to the Huggerów Brewery, the building produced beer until 1980, then mineral water until 1998, when it was bought by the Fortis Group and a $66 million USD investment transformed it into the shopping and entertainment Mecca it is today. Home to tonnes of art and outstanding design details, Stary Browar also features a 5-Star hotel, dozens of restaurants, cafes, and bars, and over 200 retail spaces, in which you’ll find both name brands and popular chain stores.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 601 34 84 83, www.starybrowar5050.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. iyp.me/poznan

Shopping

Avenida Poznań 200 shops 30 restaurants and cafes

Next to bus and railway station the only one store in Poznań

iyp.me/polandblog

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Directory 24HR SHOPS LEWIATANQG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 28, www.lewiatan.pl.

LOTOSQL‑7, ul. Jana Pawła II 2, tel. (+48) 519 07 56 26.

NN SERWIS Laptop and tablet repairs.QG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 28, tel. (+48) 602 39 67 16, www.nnserwis.pl. Open 08:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

MAŁGOSIAQG‑6, ul. Karola Libelta 6.

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES

COMPUTER REPAIR

In Poznań, unfortunately, unless you are Russian or American, your nearest embassy is likely in the capital, Warsaw, some 310km away.

DOCTOR GADGET Computer, tablet, and smartphone repairs, chargers and powerbanks for sale.QF-8, ul. Kościuszki 72/5B, tel. (+48) 690 98 30 33, www.doctorgadget.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. J-COM SERWIS Computer, tablet, and smartphone repairs; communicating in English might be a bit of a challenge, though.QF‑12, ul.

Sikorskiego 39, tel. (+48) 61 835 26 38, www.j-com.pl.

Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following: Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997.

English, German and Russian speakers have separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: (+48) 608 599 999 or (+48) 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay. The lines are active year round with later hours during the high-tourist season.

For urgent medical emergencies, use the listings below.

The emergency room in PL is called SOR, and should only be visited if it is really necessary. In less urgent crises, we recommend you visit a private clinic, where you’ll get better service and avoid the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals.

HCP MEDICAL CENTRE (EMERGENCY ROOM) Poznań’s most central Emergency Room (SOR), located south of the train station in Wilda.Qul. 28 Czerwca 1956 r. 194 (Wilda), tel. (+48) 61 22 74 181, www. centrum-medyczne-hcp.pl.

JÓZEF STRUS MUNICIPAL HOSPITAL Qul. Szwajcarska 3 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 873 93 46, www.szpital-szwajcarska.poznan.pl.

LUXMED A private medical centre just west of the Old Town.

QE‑7, ul. Roosevelta 18, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88, www. luxmed.pl. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

84 Poznań In Your Pocket

AMERICAN CONSULATE IN POZNAŃ QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 851 85 16, https://pl.usembassy.gov/pl.

AUSTRIAN HONORARY CONSULATE IN POZNAŃ QF‑7, ul. Aleksandra Fredry 1/18, tel. (+48) 61 855 19 91, www.konsulataustrii.pl.

RUSSIAN CONSULATE IN POZNAŃ Qul. Bukowska 53A, tel. (+48) 61 841 77 40, www. poznan.mid.ru.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE Currency exchange offices (‘Kantor’) are easy to find in Poznań, but as with any international destination, it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never change your money at city entry points, particularly at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve vetted them for you and assembled a list of well-located exchange offices that won’t rip you off or take a commission.

KANTOR GOLD QH‑8, Pl. Wiosny Ludów 2 (Kupiec Poznański), tel. (+48) 61 850 89 51, www.kantor-gold.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 20:30, Sun 11:00 - 18:30.

KANTOR PRZEMEKS QE‑9, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2 (Poznań City Center/ Main Train Station), tel. (+48) 667 31 31 31, www. kantorprzemeks.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 20:00.

KANTOR PRZEMEKS QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 859 64 66, www.kantorprzemeks.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

DENTISTS CANDEO CLINIC English and German is spoken here. Second location at ul. Mielczarska 48B.Qul. Bednarska 6, tel. (+48) 512 83 88 11, www.candeo.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. iyp.me/poznan

Directory CHILLIDENT Root canal​treatment, microscopic endodontics, dental prosthetics, pedodontics, aesthetic dentistry, and other services. English spoken.QG‑7, Pl. Wolności 9/1, tel. (+48) 61 852 27 55, www.chillident.com. Open 08:30 - 20:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. DENTOPOLIS Dental surgeon with 30 years of experience. English and Spanish is spoken here.QA‑11, ul. Morawskiego 2D, tel. (+48) 503 19 03 37, www.dentopolis-poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Wed 12:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00.

The best Poznań

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LAUNDRY PERFECT CLEAN Not self-service, and underwear is not accepted. Next-day pick up. Pricing is per item, about 13-24zł for standard shirts and trousers.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 61 859 63 25, www.perfectclean.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

PRALNIE SAMOOBSŁUGOWE Self-service laundromat. 16zł for one wash in a small machine (up to 6kg of clothing), 18zł for large (up to 8kg).

Drying 5zł for 20 minutes.QG‑7, ul. Święty Marcin 39, tel. (+48) 604 69 05 52, www.pralnia.samoobslugowa.eu/ pralnia-poznan.html. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

POST OFFICES POCZTA POLSKAQF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 77, tel. (+48) 61 869 74 08, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. POCZTA POLSKAQD‑9, ul. Głogowska 17, tel. (+48) 61 869 72 67, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.

POCZTA POLSKA QI‑7, ul. Wodna 17/19, tel. (+48) 61 886 55 19, www. poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Mon 08:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

RELIGIOUS SERVICES MUSLIM CULTURE & RECREATION CENTRE Services take place Fridays at 12:30 during winter and 13:30 in summer (daylight saving time, mid-March till late October).Qul. Biedrzyckiego 13 (Łazarz), tel. (+48) 61 864 10 48, www.islam.poznan.pl.

POZNAŃ INTERNATIONAL CHURCH Poznań International Church is a non-denominational Christian church that meets every Sunday morning at 11:00 on the 1st floor of the Sheraton Hotel. Includes the Word of God Sunday school for children (and wonderful childcare for smaller children) as well as coffee and tea after the service.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. (+48) 791 99 04 94, www.international.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

City Essentials Only our favourite places Works offline, incl. maps Free download Incl. dozens of other cities www.iyp.me/app

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

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Hotels

Sleep in Hostel & Apartments

Visitors to Poznań will be pleasantly surprised to find that the city is home to some of the most impressive hotel properties in the country. While Poznań’s role as Poland’s epicentre for conferences and fairs has clearly benefited those who like plush accommodations and modern conveniences to come standard, on the flip side those major conferences can cause prices to shoot up when space is in demand (rates tend to double during the annual MTP, Polagra, Budma and Infosystem fairs). Fortunately most hotels compensate by offering impressive weekend discounts to encourage travellers to stick around and explore the city. With the increasing irrelevance of official rack rates these days due to these special offers, online booking discounts and other price variations, we no longer find it particularly instructive to list room prices in our guide, as we once did.

On our website - iyp.me/poznan - you’ll find full reviews, photos and reader comments, on all of the hostels and hotels listed in our print guide, plus dozens of other accommodation options in the region; unfortunately, space constraints no longer allow us to print these reviews.

Accommodation is categorised here subjectively based on a combination of lodging type, location, price and amenities. The venues listed here also serve as distribution points for our print guide, which can be picked up for free at the reception desks of the addresses listed. Sleep well.

86 Poznań In Your Pocket

CREAM OF THE CROP BLOW UP HALL 5050 QG‑9, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 500 16 16 71, www. blowuphall5050.com. 22 rooms (22 singles, 18 doubles).

P­H­U­K­D hhhhh CITY PARK HOTEL & RESIDENCE QA‑9, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26A, tel. (+48) 61 221 84 00, www.cityparkhotel.pl. 88 rooms (88 apartments).

P­H­6­F­K­D­C­W hhhhh IBB ANDERSIA HOTEL QG‑9, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. (+48) 61 667 80 00, www. andersiahotel.pl. 171 rooms (144 singles, 144 doubles, 27 apartments). P­Y­H­6­U­F­L­K­D­C­w hhhh NH POZNAŃ QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 67, tel. (+48) 61 624 88 00, www. nh-hotels.com. 93 rooms (93 singles, 93 doubles).

P­Y­H­6­U­F­L­K­D­w hhhh SHERATON POZNAN HOTEL QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan. 180 rooms (167 singles, 167 doubles, 13 apartments). P­H­6­U­F­L­K­ D­C hhhhh iyp.me/poznan

Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning H Conference facilities T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking on site

K Restaurant

w Wellness

D Sauna

X Smoking rooms available

6 Animal friendly

C Swimming pool

UPMARKET BROVARIAQH‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74, tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. 21 rooms (3 singles, 17 doubles, 1 studio). P­H­K hhh DON PRESTIGEQH‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 2, tel. (+48) 61 859 05 90, www.donprestige.com. 73 rooms (52 singles, 47 doubles, 20 suites). P­H­6­F­L HOTEL KOLEGIACKI QI‑7, Pl. Kolegiacki 5, tel. (+48) 61 855 05 05, www. hotelkolegiacki.pl. 24 rooms (24 singles, 21 doubles).

P­Y­H­U­F­K hhhh HOTEL MODERNO QC‑12, ul. Kolejowa 29, tel. (+48) 61 664 66 66, www. hotelmoderno.pl. 88 rooms (84 doubles, 3 suites, 1 apartment). P­H­L­K hhhh

NOVOTEL POZNAŃ CENTRUM QG‑9, Pl. Andersa 1, tel. (+48) 61 858 70 00, www. accorhotels.com. 480 rooms (160 singles, 310 doubles, 10 apartments). P­Y­H­6­U­F­L­K hhhh NOVOTEL POZNAŃ MALTA QP‑7, ul. Termalna 5, tel. (+48) 61 654 31 00, www. accorhotels.com. 149 rooms (149 singles, 149 doubles).

Y­H­6­U­F­L­K hhh PLATINUM PALACE RESIDENCE Qul. Reymonta 19 (entrance from ul. Wyspiańskiego) (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 882 39 40, www. platinumpalace.pl. 14 rooms (14 singles, 13 doubles).

P­H­6­K hhhh PURO HOTEL POZNAŃ QI‑6, ul. Stawna 12, tel. (+48) 61 333 10 00, www. purohotel.pl. 136 rooms (134 singles, 134 doubles, 2 suites). P­Y­H­6­U­F­K­D hhhh ROYALQF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 71, tel. (+48) 61 858 23 00, www.hotel-royal.com.pl. 35 rooms (12 singles, 22 doubles, 1 suite). H­L­W hhh VIVALDI QG‑2, ul. Winogrady 9, tel. (+48) 61 858 81 00, www.vivaldi.pl. 44 rooms (22 singles, 21 doubles, 1 apartment). P­H­6­K­D­w hhhh

HOTEL REGATTA Qul. Chojnicka 49 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 502 78 78 10, www.regattahotel.pl. 23 rooms (22 singles, 22 doubles, 22 triples, 1 apartment). H­U­F­K­D­C­w hhhh HOTEL SOLEI GOLF Qul. Wałecka 2 (Strzeszyn), tel. (+48) 61 847 58 38, www.hotel-solei.pl. 23 rooms (6 singles, 16 doubles, 1 apartment). H­6­L­K­D hhhh HP PARK QP‑9, ul. Baraniaka 77, tel. (+48) 61 874 11 00, www. hotelepark.pl. 97 rooms (95 singles, 95 doubles, 1 suite, 1 apartment). P­Y­H­6­U­K hhh MAT’S Qul. Bułgarska 115 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 868 78 31, www.hotelmats.pl. 35 rooms (3 singles, 21 doubles, 9 suites, 2 apartments). H­6­U­KD ­ hhh MERCURE POZNAŃ CENTRUM QD‑7, ul. Roosevelta 20, tel. (+48) 61 855 80 00, www. mercure-poznan-centrum.com. 228 rooms (227 singles, 187 doubles, 1 apartment). P­YH ­ ­6­U­F­L­ K­D hhhh iyp.me/polandblog

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Hotels MID-RANGE CAMPANILEQul. Św. Wawrzyńca 96, tel. (+48) 61 845 66 00, www.campanile.com. 80 rooms (76 singles, 76 doubles, 4 apartments). P­H­6­U­K hh GARDEN BOUTIQUE RESIDENCEQI‑7, ul.

Wroniecka 24, tel. (+48) 61 222 29 99, www. gardenhotel.pl. 17 rooms (11 singles, 11 doubles, 3 triples, 3 apartments). P­L­K HOTEL FORZAQul. Dworska 1 (Naramowice), tel. (+48) 61 821 36 67, www.hotelforza.pl. 24 rooms (24 singles, 24 doubles). P­H­U­L­K hhh HOTEL KSIĘCIA JÓZEFAQul. Ostrowska 391/393 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 872 63 19, www.hotelkj.pl. 35 rooms (15 singles, 19 doubles, 1 apartment). P­H­K hhh HOTEL POZNAŃSKIQul. Krańcowa 4, Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 649 99 88, www.hotelpoznanski.pl. 107 rooms (100 singles, 100 doubles, 7 suites). H­U­L­K hhh HOTEL ŚRÓDKAQL‑6, ul. Śródka 6, tel. (+48) 61 222 00 07, www.hotelsrodka.pl. 25 rooms (7 singles, 6 doubles, 1 triple, 4 suites, 7 apartments). H­U­L hhh HOTEL SYSTEM POZNAŃQul. Lechicka 101 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 821 07 00, www.lechickasystem. pl. 107 rooms (42 singles, 58 doubles, 7 apartments).

P­H­6­L­K­D­C hhh IBISQJ‑9, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 23, tel. (+48) 61 858 44 00, www.accorhotels.com. 146 rooms (146 singles, 146 doubles). P­H­6­U­L­K hh IKARQG‑5, ul. Solna 18, tel. (+48) 61 658 71 05, www. hotelewam.pl. 145 rooms (57 singles, 80 doubles, 8 suites). P­H­6­U­L­K hhh REZYDENCJA SOLEI B&BQI‑7, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 510 11 01 30, www.hotel-solei.pl. 10 rooms (9 singles, 9 doubles, 1 apartment). P RZYMSKIQH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22, tel. (+48) 61 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski.pl. 127 rooms (48 singles, 33 doubles, 1 suite, 5 apartments). H­6­U­L­K hhh STARE MIASTOQH‑8, ul. Rybaki 36, tel. (+48) 61 659 00 43, www.hotelstaremiasto.pl. 23 rooms (3 singles, 18 doubles, 1 suite, 1 apartment). P­H­L hhh TOPAZQF‑10, ul. Przemysłowa 34A, tel. (+48) 61 833 76 00, www.hotel-topaz.pl. 48 rooms (9 singles, 36 doubles, 2 triples, 1 suite). H­6­U­K hhh

BUDGET GOLDQul. Bukowska 127A (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 842 07 74, www.goldhotel.pl. 12 rooms (11 singles, 11 doubles, 1 apartment). H­6 hh 88 Poznań In Your Pocket

HOTEL RAMKAQul. Dąbrowskiego 474 (entrance from ul. Wejherowska 10, Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 849 94 99, www.hotelramka.pl. 26 rooms (24 singles, 24 doubles, 2 suites). P­H­LK ­ hhh

OUT OF TOWN GREEN HOTELQul. Jeziorna 1A, Komorniki, tel. (+48) 61 810 80 75, www.greenhotel.pl. 44 rooms (40 singles, 36 doubles, 4 apartments). P­H­6­UL ­ ­K­D hhh

APARTMENTS APARTAMENTY VELVETQC‑9, ul. Śniadeckich 7, tel. (+48) 606 88 88 00, www.evelvet.pl. 16 rooms (16 apartments).

CAPITAL APARTMENTSQH‑8, ul. Piekary 16, tel. (+48) 61 852 53 00, www.capitalapart.pl. 33 rooms (33 apartments). 6 CLASSICO APARTMENTSQD‑6, ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. (+48) 728 41 48 27, www.classico-apartamenty.com.

27 rooms (27 apartments). T­H­6­K PLATINUM PALACE APARTMENTSQG‑8, ul.

Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 671 05 66, www.apartamenty. platinumpalace.pl. 27 rooms (27 apartments). 6 POMARAŃCZARNIAQH‑9, ul. Rybaki 12, tel. (+48) 515 37 73 20, www.apartamenty-pomaranczarnia.pl.

44 rooms (44 apartments). 6

HOSTELS FUSION HOSTELQF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 66/72, tel. (+48) 61 852 12 30. 17 rooms (3 doubles, 1 triple, 3 quads, 1 five-person room, 8 six-person room, 1 seven-person room, 80 dorm beds). Y­U MELODY HOSTELQH‑7, Stary Rynek 67 (entrance from ul. Kozia 16), tel. (+48) 61 851 60 60, www.melodyhostel.pl. 16 rooms (2 singles, 10 doubles, 1 quad, 16 dorm beds, 1 six-person room).

POCO LOCO HOSTELQG‑8, ul. Taczaka 23, tel. (+48) 796 23 05 55, www.hostel.poco-loco.pl. 9 rooms (2 doubles, 46 dorm beds). 6 ROSEMARY’S HOSTELQI‑7, ul. Wrocławska 13, tel. (+48) 61 855 27 61. 12 rooms (12 singles, 11 doubles, 1 triple).

SLEEP IN HOSTEL & APARTMENTSQH‑7, Stary Rynek 77, tel. (+48) 61 639 40 04, www.sleepinhostel. pl. 27 rooms (20 singles, 20 doubles, 7 apartments). 6 VERY BERRY HOSTELQH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 11/17, tel. (+48) 61 855 17 63, www.very-berry.pl. 24 rooms (6 singles, 10 doubles, 5 triples, 4 quads, 60 dorm beds). 6 iyp.me/poznan

Street Register 1KDD (Bulwar Nadwarciański) L-7/8 23 Lutego G-6; H-6/7 27 Grudnia G-7 28 Czerwca 1956 roku F-11/12 3 Maja G-7 Al. Armii “Poznań” F-2/3; G/J-4; G-3 Al. Króla Przemysła II E-9 Al. Marcinkowskiego H-6/8 Al. Niepodległości

E-7; F-5/9; G-4/5/9; H-4/5 Al. Pod Lipami K-1 Al. Radziejewskiego P-11/12 Al. Wielkopolska D/F-4; D-3; E-3; F-5 Anonima A-5; B-5 Asnyka C-6 Baraniaka L/N-8; M/P-9; P-10 Barzyńskiego E-5 Bastionowa G-2; H-2 Bałtycka N/P-1 Berdychowo L-8 Bergera E-11; F-11 Bernata M-3/5; N-3 Berwińskiego B-10; C-10 Biała A-8 Bielniki I-11 Blacharska N-3; O-3 Bnińska O-5/7 Bociania B-3 Bogusławskiego A-10/12; B-10 Brandstaettera I-1/2 Brneńska L/N-11 Bukowska A/E-7; D-8; E-8 Bydgoska L-6; M-5/6 Bóżnicza I-6 Calliera C-11 Cegielskiego I-9; J-9 Chemiczna O-1 Chełmińska E-2 Chełmońskiego B-9/10 Chlebowa M-5; N-4/5 Chociszewskiego A-12 Chopina F-5/6 Chwaliszewo I-7; J-6/7 Chwiałkowskiego E/H-11 Chłodna B-11 Ciasna J-7 Cicha F-4; G-4/5 Czajcza F-12; G-12 Czapla L-1 Czarnieckiego E-11/12; F-12 Czartoria J-7; K-7 Dmowskiego B-11/12 Dojazd B-1 Dolina G-11/12 Dolna Wilda G-10/12 Dolska L/N-12; M-11 Dominikańska I-6/7 Dowbora-Muśnickiego I-8; J-8 Dożynkowa G-1/2 Droga Dębińska H-11/12; I-10/11 Drużbackiej B-10 Drzymały D-3; E-3 Dworcowa D-8/9; E-7/9 Dworkowa E-4/5 Dybowskiego G-1 Działowa H-5/6 Działyńskich G-6 Dziekańska L-6 Dąbrowskiego A/C-5; C/E-6 Długa H-8; I-8 Długosza A-5/6 Estkowskiego I/K-6 Ewangelicka I-7; J-7/8; K-8 Filipińska L-6; M-6 Franciszkańska H-7 Fredry E-6; F-6/7 Gajowa D-7 Garbary I-6/9; J-4/6 Garczyńskiego E-12 Garncarska F-7/8 Gdańska L-6; M-6 Gen. Kutrzeby H-4/5; I-5 Gen. Maczka D/F-2 Gen. Pułaskiego E-5; F-3/5; G-3 Gorczyczewskiego A-6/7 Gołębia H-7; I-7 Graniczna C-10/11 Grobla I-7; J-7/9 Grochowe Łąki I-6; J-6 Gromadzka I-1 Gronowa I-1 Grottgera A-9; B-9 Grudzieniec A-3; B/E-4; B-3; E-5; F-5

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Grunwaldzka A/C-8; A-9; C-7; D-7 Gwarna F-7 Góra Przemysła H-7 Góralska B-1; C-1 Górna Wilda F-11; G-9/11 Gąsiorowskich C-10; D-10 Głogowska

A-12; B-10/12; C-9/10; D-8/9 Główna N/P-3; N-4; O-4 Głęboka G-10 Harcerska O-3; P-3 Hejmowskiego G-5/6; H-5/6 Heliodora Święcickiego C-7/8 Hetmańska A-12 Hlonda M-4/5; N-2/4; O-1/2 Inflancka O-12; P-10/12 Iłłakowiczówny A-9 Jackowskiego A/C-6 Jana Pawła II L-7/11; M-6/9 Janickiego A-4/5; B-3/4 Jantar M-11 Jarochowskiego A-10/12; B-10 Jaskółcza H-8 Jeżycka C-4; D-4/5; E-5 Jordana H-12; I-12 Juracka K-10/11 Jęczmienna G-1/2 Kadłubka A-5/6 Kajki A-4 Kaliska L-9/10; M-8/9 Kanałowa C-10 Kantaka G-7 Karmelicka H-9/10 Karwowskiego C-12 Kasprzaka A-11/12; B-11 Kassyusza A-5/6 Kaszubska B-2 Katowicka N-9/11; O-11 Kilińskiego F-12 Klasztorna I-7 Klin E-4 Klonowica B-10 Kmieca J-1 Kochanowskiego D-5/7 Kolejowa C-10/12; D-10 Konarskiego M-6; N-5/6 Konopnickiej B-8; C-8 Kopernika H-9; I-9 Koralowa O-6/7 Koronkarska M/O-4; N-5 Kossaka B-9/10 Kotlarska N-3; O-3 Kozia H-7; I-7 Kościelna C-4/6; D-4 Kościuszki F-5/9; G-5/9; H-9 Krakowska H-9; I-9 Kramarska H-7; I-7 Krasińskiego D-6; E-6 Kraszewskiego C-6/7 Krańcowa P-3/5 Krysiewicza H-8 Krzywoustego

J-10; K/M-11; K-10; M-12; N-12 Krzyżowa F-12; G-12 Królowej Jadwigi F/H-9; H/J-10 Krótka O-3; P-3 ks. Józefa H-5; I-5 ks. Mieszka I F-1/4 ks. Posadzego K-6; L-6 ks. Wujka E-9; F-9/10 Ku Cytadeli I-4/5 Kujawska C-2 Kulasa G-5 Kurpiowska E-4 Kwiatowa H-9 Kórnicka K-9; L-9/10; M-10 Kącik C-11 Lazurowa C-1 Lechicka N-1; O-1 Libelta E/G-6; E-5 Limanowskiego A-10; B-10/11 Lindego A-4 Litewska C-3; D-3 Lodowa B-11/12 Lubrańskiego K-5/6 Ludgardy H-7 Lwowska N-9 Magazynowa E-10; F-9/10 Maltańska M-9; N-9 Mansfelda D-5 Marcelińska A-8; B-8 Mariacka O-2/3; P-2 Masztalarska H-6/7; I-6

Matejki B-8/11 Matyi E-8/9; F-9 Mazowiecka B/D-2 Małachowskiego M-5/6; N-5 Małe Garbary H-6; I-6 Małeckiego B-11; C-10/11 Małopolska B-2; C-2/3; D-3 Michałowska E-1/2 Mickiewicza D-6/7; E-5/6 Mielżyńskiego F-7; G-7 Mieszkowska M-12 Milczańska N-10/12; O-12 Miłosławska O-6; P-6/7 Mokra I-6 Morawskiego A-11; B-11 Mostowa I-7/8; J-7/9 Mottego C-11 Murawa I-1 Murna H-7 Mylna D-4/5 Mączna D-4/5 Młyńska G-6 Na Miasteczku K-10; L-10 Na Podgórniku H-4/5; I-5 Na Stoku J-3/4 Nad Bogdanką D-4 Nad Potokiem D-1/2 Nad Seganką A-3/4; B-4 Nad Wierzbakiem D-2/4 Nadbrzeże K-2; L-2 Nadolnik P-2/3 Naramowicka K-1 Nehringa A-12 Niecała A-8 Niedziałkowskiego F-10; G-10 Niegolewskich A-10/11; B-11 Niemena M-10/11 Niestachowska A-2/3; B-1/2 Niezłomnych F-9; G-9 Niska E-4/5 Norwida D-4/5; E-5 Noskowskiego E-5/6; F-5/6 Nowe Zagórze K-7 Nowowiejskiego F-5/6; G-6/7 Obrzyca J/L-12; J-11 Ogrodowa G-8; H-8 Orzeszkowej B-9; C-9 Ostrów Tumski K-6; L-6 Ostrówek L-6 Owsiana F-1/2; G-2 Ozimina G-1/2 Paderewskiego H-7 Panny Marii J-5; K-5/6 Parkowa B-9; C-9 Pasaż Apollo G-8 Pasaż Różowy F-8 Pasieka H-1 Pałucka D-4; E-4 Piaskowa I-6; J-5/6 Piastowska I-10/12 Piaśnicka P-12 Piekary G-8; H-8 Piotrowo K-9; L-8/9 Piątkowska E-1; F-1/2 Piłsudskiego K/M-12; K-11; L-11 Pl. Asnyka C-6 Pl. Kolegiacki I-7 Pl. Orawski B-2; C-2 Pl. Ratajskiego G-6/7 Pl. Spiski C-3; D-3 Pl. Wielkopolski H-6 Pl. Wiosny Ludów H-8 Pl. Wolności G-7; H-7 Pleszewska L-10/11; M-11 Podgórna H-7/8; I-8 Podgórze H-6 Podhalańska C-2 Podlaska B-1/2; C-1 Podolska C-2; D-2/3 Podwale M-5/6 Polanka L-9; M-9/10; N-10 Polna A-6/8; B-5/6 Pomorska B-2 Poplińskich F-10; G-10/11 Potockiej A/C-12 Potworowskiego A-12 Powstańcza F-12; G-12 Powstańców Wielkopolskich E/G-8 Poznańska C/E-5 Prusa C-6 Prużańska P-10 Przemysłowa F-9/12 Przepadek F/H-4; G-3

Przełajowa K-1/2 Przy Dolinie G-11 Przybyszewskiego A-5 Prądzyńskiego E-12; F-12 Pszczelna H-1 Pszenna G-2 Północna I-5; J-5 Półwiejska G-9; H-8/9 Ratajczaka G-7/9 Reja D-6 Robocza D-12; E-11/12; F-10/11 Rodziewiczówny A-3/4 Rokietnicka A-7 Rondo Kaponiera D-7; E-7 Rondo Rataje L-11 Rondo Szczęśliwej Podróży E-9 Rondo Śródka M-6 Roosevelta D-7/8; E-5/8 Rybaki H-8/9; I-8 Rynek Wildecki F-11 Rynek Łazarski B-11; C-11 Rynek Śródecki L-6 Rynkowa H-7 Rzeczna P-2 Różana G-10/11 Sadowa H-1; I-1 Sczanieckiej A-11; B-11 Serafitek K-9/10 Siemiradzkiego B-9/10 Sienkiewicza C-6; D-6/7 Sieroca H-7 Sikorskiego E-12; F-12 Skromna P-1/2 Skryta B-8 Składowa E-8; F-8 Smolna N-2; O-2/3 Sochaczewska E-2 Sokoła D-2; E-1/2 Solna F-5; G-5/6; H-6 Sowia M-9/10 Sołtysia I-1; J-1 Spadzista G-10 Spichrzowa D-10; E-9/10 Sporna F-5; G-5 Stablewskiego A/C-12; A-11 Starowiejska F-1; G-1 Staszica B-5/6 Stawna I-6 Strusia C-10/11 Strzałkowskiego C-6; D-5/6 Strzałowa H-8/9; I-8 Strzelecka H-8; I-8/10 Studniarskiego P-3 Studzienna N-3/4; O-3 Szamarzewskiego A/C-6 Szczepanowskiego B-3/4 Szelągowska J-3/4; K-1/3 Szewska I-6/7 Szkolna H-7/8 Szydłowska C/E-1 Szylinga B-7/8; C-7 Szymańskiego H-8 Szyperska I-7; J-5/7 Słonimska P-10 Słowackiego B/E-6; E-7 Słowiańska E/G-1; J-1; K-1 Taczaka F-8; G-8 Taylora F-8 Teatralny E-6 Termalna N/P-7; P-8 Tomickiego N-5/7 Topolowa F-9/10; G-10 Towarowa E-7/9 Tylne Chwaliszewo J-7 Ugory K-1; L-1 Umińskiego E-12 Uniwersytecki E-7 Urbanowska D-2; E-2/3; F-3 Ułańska A-8/9; B-9/10 Warczygłowy L-10; M-10 Warmińska A-1/2; B-2 Warszawska M/P-7; M-6; N-6; P-6 Warzywna H-1/2 Wawrzyniaka B-5/7 Wenecjańska J-6/7 Weteranów K-10; L-10 Wiankowa P-10 Wiatraczna O-12 Widna D-1 Wiece D-1/2 Wiejska P-3 Wielka I-7 Wielkiego I-9; J-9

Wieniawskiego E-6/7; F-6 Wierzbięcice F-9/12 Wierzbowa J-8 Wieżowa K-6/7; L-7 Wilczak K-1; L-1 Wilkońskich A-4/5 Winiarska D-1 Winna H-1/2 Winogrady G-2/3; H/J-1; H-2; J-2; K-2 Wioślarska J-11; K-11 Witosa B-1; C-1 Wodna I-7 Wojska Polskiego A/C-1; C-2; D-2 Wojskowa A-8/10 Wolne Tory E-9 Wolnica G/I-6 Wołkowyska O-9/10; P-10/11 Wołyńska C-1/2; D-1 Woźna I-7 Wrocławska H-7/8; I-7 Wroniecka I-6/7 Wschodnia P-3/4 Wszystkich Świętych I-8; J-8 Wybickiego E-12; F-12 Wysoka G-8; H-8 Wyspiańskiego A/C-10; A-9 Wyszyńskiego K/M-6 Wyzwolenia L-12 Wyżyny G/I-1 Wójtowska I-1; J-1 Wąska C-5 Za Bramką I-7/8 Za Cytadelą G/J-2; G-3; J-1 Za Groblą J-8; K-8 Zabrzańska M-9; N-9 Zachodnia D-9 Zacisze E-5/6 Zagonowa G-1/2; H-2 Zagrodnicza J-1/2 Zagórze K-7; L-6/7 Zakątek A-8 Zamenhofa K-11/12; L-11 Zamkowa H-7 Zaniemyska O-5/6 zaułek Ślepego Antka K-7 Zawady M-4/5; N-3/4 Załęże A-12; B-12 Zbożowa F-1; G-1/2 Zdrojowa O-6 Zeylanda D-7 Zielona I-8 Ziętary B-8 Zjazd D-1 Zwierzyniecka C/E-7 Łacina L-10 Łady E-4 Łaskarza N-6 Łazienna J-7 Łucznicza K-10 Łukaszewicza C-11/12 Łąkowa H-9; I-9 Ślusarska I-7 Śląska D-2/3 Śniadeckich C-7/10 Śpiewaków C-1; D-1/2 Średnia O-3; P-2/3 Średzka N-6; O-5/6 Śremska M-12; N-12 Śródka L-6 Św. Barbary G-5 Św. Czesława F-10; G-10 Św. Floriana C-5 Św. Jacka L-6 Św. Jerzego F-12; G-12 Św. Marcin E/G-7; G-8; H-8 Św. Marii Magdaleny I-9; J-8/9 Św. Michała N-5/7; O-3/5 Św. Rocha K-9/10; L-10 Św. Wawrzyńca A-3; B-3/4; C-4 Św. Wincentego L-5; M-5 Św. Wojciech H-5/6; I-6 Święciańska P-10 Świętojańska M-7; N-7 Świętosławska I-7 Źródlana D-1/2 Żelazka G-12; H-12 Żeromskiego A-3/5 Żmudzka D-3/4 Żniwna G-2; H-2 Żupańskiego F-11; G-10/11 Żurawia C-5/6 Żydowska I-6/7

March – June 2018

89

Index 239 27 1956 Uprising Museum 61 Adrenaline Alpine Coaster 76 Antykwariat 80 Antykwariat Naukowy 80 Apartamenty Velvet 88 Applied Arts Museum 61 Archaeological Museum 61 Archdiocese Museum 61, 68 Arsenał City Gallery 58 Avenida Poznań 82 Bagels & Friends 27 Bamber Monument 60 Bar a Boo 36 Bar Susznia 47 Basilium 47, 79 Bierhalle 32 Blow Up Hall 5050 32, 86 Blubry6D 74 Blue Note Jazz Club 50 Bo.Poznan 32 Botanical Garden 75 Brewery Tours & Pub Lech Browary Wielkopolski 64 British Military Cemetery 70 Brovaria 32, 47, 87 Budnicy Houses 57 BulwaR 39 Cafe La Ruina 26 Cafe Stragan 26 Campanile 88 Capital Apartments 88 Casa de Vinos 48 Centrum Relaksu Vasco da Gaia 75 Cepelia 80

Chłopskie Jadło 40 CHMIELNIK 48 Chocolate Museum 61 Church of the Virgin Mary 68 City Event Poznań 59 City Fortifications 8, 9 City Guide Poznań 59 City Information Centre 59 City Park Hotel & Residence 86 Classico Apartments 88 Cocorico 26 Concordia Taste 33 Cuba Libre 51 Czarna Owca 51 Czekolada 51 Dąbrowskiego 42 33 Dalineum 62 Dark Restaurant 35 Dobra i Wino 48 Don Prestige 87 Drukarnia Skład Wina & Chleba Poznań 30 Dynx 40 FACTORY Poznań 82 Falla 44 Falla food truck 42 Fat Bob Burger 42 Figaro 37 Flavoria 33 Franciscan Church 10 Fusion Hostel 88 Fusion Restaurant 31 Galeria YES 79 Garden Boutique Residence 88 GearUP! 74

Genius Loci Archeological Park 68 GOKO Restauracja Japońska 37 Gold 88 Green Hotel 88 Green Way 44 Guardhouse 59 HAH Poznań 51 Handmade 80 Harmonia SPA 75 Hatti 31 Havana Club Poznań 52 Headless Figures 70 Historical Museum of Poznań 57 Hola Hola 48 Hotel ForZa 88 Hotel Kolegiacki 87 Hotel Księcia Józefa 88 Hotel Moderno 87 Hotel Poznański 88 Hotel Ramka 88 Hotel Regatta 87 Hotel Solei Golf 87 Hotel Śródka 88 Hotel System Poznań 88 HP Park 87 IBB Andersia Hotel 86 Ibis 88 Ikar 88 Imperial Castle 12 INEA Stadium 63 Inna Piekarnia 26 ISTNY wine tapas beer 48 Jewish Cemetery 73 Jeżyce Market 80

Baszta Strażacka and Baszta Katarzynek, part of the city fortifications (p.8).

90 Poznań In Your Pocket

Photo by Mateusz Woźniak, CC BY-SA 3.0

John of Nepomuk Monument

58, 59 KRAFT 33 Kriek Belgian Pub & Cafe 48 Kuchnia Wandy 40 KURO by Panamo 38 Kyokai Sushi Bar 44 Lars, Lars & Lars 44 Lavenda Gastro & Cafe 34 Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus 7 Lilou 79 Literary Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz 62 Ludwiku do Rondla 39 Malta Ski Equipment Rental 76 Malta Ski Mini Golf 76 Malta Ski Pontoon Hire 76 Maltese Baths 77 Manekin 42 Mat's 87 Meh 29 Melody Hostel 88 Mercure Poznań Centrum 87 Miejscówka 48 Minister CAFE 26 Ministerstwo Browaru 49 Models of Poznań 62 Moliera 2 Bazar Poznański 82 Mollini 37 Monument to the Heroes of the Poznań Citadel 70 Municipal Scales Building

59, 60 Museum of Armaments 63, 70 National Museum 63 Na Winklu 40 New Synagogue 8 NH Poznań 86 Novotel Poznań Centrum 87 Novotel Poznań Malta 87 Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem 40 Od:zysk 58 Okrąglak 12 Old Town Hall 56 Oskoma 41 Ośla ławka 34 Pacha 52 Pamiątki z Poznania 80 PETIT PARIS Boulangerie 26, 27 Pharmacy Museum 63 PHOBAR 30 Piano Bar Restaurant & Cafe

37, 49 Pies Andaluzyjski 50 Pijalnia Czekolady E.Wedel Stary Rynek 27

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Index Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 49 Plac Wolności 10, 12 Platinum Palace Apartments 88 Platinum Palace Residence 87 Poco Loco Hostel 88 Pod Niebieniem 41 Pod Pręgierzem 34 Pomarańczarnia 88 Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre of Cathedral Island 66 Posnania 82 Poznań Army Museum 63, 71 Poznań Bamber Museum 64 Poznań Cathedral 67 Poznań Croissant Museum 64 Poznań Nightingales Neon 10 Pranger 57 Produkty Benedyktyńskie 82 Projekt Kuchnia 27, 34 Projekt LAB 52 Ptasie Radio 27 PURO Hotel Poznań 87 Rabarbar 82 Raj 30 Ramen-Ya 38 Ratuszova 41 Regatta Wellness & Spa 75 Restauracja Momo 42 Restauracja MUGA 35 Restauracja Patio Provence 35 Restauracja Słoń Seafood & More 42 Rezydencja Solei B&B 88 Rose Garden 71 Rosemary's Hostel 88 Royal 87 Royal Castle 9 Różove 27 Rzymski 88 Salon Posnania 82 Sheraton Poznan Hotel 86 Shivaz 31 Sleep In Hostel & Apartments 88 Słodownia Browar Pub 49 SomePlace Else 29, 50 SPOT. 35 SQ 52 Stare Miasto 88

Stary Browar 9, 82 St. John of Jerusalem Church Outside the Wall 77 Świat Bursztynu 80 Taj India 31 Thai Fast Wok 42 Thai-Land Massage 75 Thai Smile Massage 75 Thai Thai 44 The New Zoo 77 The Old Zoo 74 The Time 35 Toboggon Run Pepsi 77 Topaz 88 Tourist Information Centre 59 Ułan Browar 50 ul. Żydowska 7 Very Berry Hostel 88 Vine Bridge 36 VisitPoznań 59 Vivaldi 87 Weranda Lunch & Wine 36 Whiskey in the Jar 50 Whisky Bar 88 50 Why Thai Food & Wine 44 Wiejskie Jadło 41 Wielkopolska Market 80 Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum 64 Wielkopolska Military Museum 65 Wielkopolska Uprising Museum 65 Wino na Kieliszki 48 Wspólny Stół 42 Wyczesane Porki 29 Wypas 44 Yetztu 38 Yeżyce Kuchnia 42 YuZu 38 Zemsta Anarchist Bookshop & Club 27 Zen On 38 Zielona Weranda 36 Zindo Sushi Korean-Japanese Restaurant 39 źródło.bar 51

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The neo-Gothic fire station on ul. Masztalarska 3 (H-7).

FEATURES & CATEGORIES 1945 Battle of Poznań 71 Breakfast 27 Decoding the Menu 32 Easter in Poland 40 Health & Emergency 84 Live Music 50 Markets 80 Polish Food 31 Polish Vodka 52 Poznań IYP online 55 Poznań Old Town Tour 6 Poznań Street Art 60 Poznań Tourist Card 17 Poznań Trade Fairs 62 Rabbi Akiva Eger 73 Riding the Polish Rails 15 Śródka 68 Stare Koszary 44 Sunday Shopping Ban 78 Taczaka Street 50 The Piasts 19 Transport tools/Apps 16 March – June 2018

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