Poznan In Your Pocket March - June 2019 by Poland In Your Pocket

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Poznań No. 52, March – June 2019

City Guide

Gniezno: The First Capital of Poland p.6 Regional Wielkopolska dishes

p.48

POSNANIA

BEST SHOPPING

& LIFESTYLE

DESTINATION

IN POZNAŃ 240 SHOPS & BOUTIQUES 40 CAFES & RESTAURANTS

POZNAŃ, PLESZEWSKA 1 POSNANIA.EU

Contents

Poznań

Fancy a day tour to Poland’s first capital? Turn to p.6. | Photo by Diego Delso, delso.photo, CC BY-SA 3.0

Arrival & Transport

Shopping

What’s On 14

Directory

Sightseeing

Hotels

Stary Rynek Old Town Walking Tour Ostrów Tumski Citadel Park Lake Malta

22 28 34 37 40

Museums

Cafés

Regional Dishes

Restaurants

Nightlife

Leisure

Maps & Indexes Street Index Venue Index Features & Categories Index City Map City Centre Map

85 86 87 88 90

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Foreword Spring is creeping back to Poznań, and we’re kicking off another day-trip season with an outing to Poland’s first capital, Gniezno, a mere 50km away - turn to p.6 to join us. Back in good old Poz, all our walking tours are back in vogue; aside from the obligatory Old Town (p.28) and Ostrów Tumski (p.34) sights, we especially recommend a half-day walking around the mysterious Citadel Park (p.37), which, aside from its leafy flair and historical appeal, is a great place for a springtime picnic.

COVER STORY

On a different front, a few annual favourites are coming up on the cultural calendar, from the Night of Museums (p.18) and Easter Fair (p.16) to the fab musical festival quartet of Enter Enea (p.18), Enea Spring Break (p.18), Ethno Port (p.18), and the over-the-top Malta Festival (p.18).

PUBLISHER & STAFF

Starting with this issue, we’ve also decided to make a permament place in the guide for a rundown of the most distinctive regional dishes, with a list of restaurants where you can sample them (p.48). We hope that this addition will make it easier for you to get the most out of your Poznań visit. As always, we welcome your questions and comments at poland@inyourpocket.com, and happy exploring! Born in Upper Silesia, Janina Krzysiak spent her formative years outside of Philadelphia, PA, before moving back to Poland to indulge her love for cheap air travel, walkable cities, and Eastern European nostalgia. When she’s not writing and editing travel guides, she moonlights as a particle physicist. No, really.

Poznań In Your Pocket

Fot this spring - early summer issue, we’ve chosen a photo of Poznań’s 1909 neo-Classicist Great Theatre. In the coming months, theatre and opera enthusiasts can catch stagings of Nabucco (p.14) and Fiddler on the Roof (p.18).

Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 15,000 copies published 3 times per year Writer & Editor: Janina Krzysiak Sales Consultant: Agata Urbanowicz (+48) 606 749 642 Events & Marketing: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 882 079 723 Events Editor: Jason Neale Research: Agata Janik, Dominika Sosnowska Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

The Gniezno Cathedral | Photo by Diego Delso, delso.photo, CC BY-SA 3.0

Gniezno: The First Capital of Poland Just 50 km from PoznaĹ&#x201E;, this small town with a big history is the perfect day trip destination for those interested in the origins of the Polish state.

Gniezno Things have gone downhill for Gniezno since its glory days as the first capital of the Polish state. Once the seat of the first Christian ruler of Poland, Mieszko I - considered to have officially founded Poland in 966 - and a short procession of crowned kings, it relinquished its title to Kraków in 1038 (Kraków later passed the baton to Warsaw), after being battered to smithereens in a Czech invasion. Later rebuilt, Gniezno never regained the same level of political importance and settled into a mellow backwater existence, though it remains the ecclesiastical capital of the country. Despite the fact that the settlement dates back to Paleolithic times and was most likely a Pagan worship site before Mieszko I turned his back on the Old Gods, not much remains of early-Polish ambience. There is no wooden gród, no ruins, and no royal castle, and other than the looming cathedral - the current iteration dating back to the 14th century - Gniezno feels like a run-of-the-mill small Polish town, with a fairly standard main square, spires, cobblestones, and a general sleepiness. That being said, history buffs interested in the origins of the Polish state, religious tourists wanting to see the tomb of the patron saint of Poland and the Czech Republic, St. Adalbert (who was laid to rest here after being decapitated by angry Pagans who had had enough of conversion talk), and those wanting to experience small town Poland will have a field day here. Beyond the impressive cathedral, you’ll find a collection of treasures in the Archdiocese Museum, a pleasant lake, and an unfortunate (in several ways) communist-era Museum of the Origins of the Polish State. Be warned that visiting on Sunday is generally a bad idea, as the Archdiocese Museum and several of the cathedral’s highlights are closed to the public. CATHEDRAL Gniezno’s cathedral, the final resting place of (parts of ) Poland’s patron saint, St. Adalbert, is also regarded as the spiritual home of Poland’s former monarchy. Built by the first official ruler of Poland, Mieszko I, not long after his 966 baptism, it’s here that Poland’s first five kings were crowned (Mieszko, despite being the official first ruler of Poland, was not a crowned king). To truly enjoy it, two visits are required; a guided tour sees all manner of stories and legends revealed, and will grant you access to the ‘Gniezno

GETTING THERE Nothing could be easier than getting to Gniezno from Poznań. Trains run frequently throughout the day and you’ve got several types to choose from: the IC and TLK are direct with prices starting at 17zł for the 26-30 minute journey, while the REGIO and Koleje Wielkopolskie (KW) cost 13.50zł and lurch to a stop at every hamlet along the way, extending the travel time to about 45 minutes. Travellers using the TLK train should note that Gniezno is the first stop on the route; don’t expect any announcements alerting you to your arrival. The train station is a simple affair featuring an ATM, newsagent, and cafe, and it’s a 10min walk to the Rynek, with the Cathedral lying just beyond - simply follow ul. Dworcowa until you reach ul. Mieszka I, and then follow the latter to its conclusion. Alternatively 10zł should be enough to get you dropped off in the market square (Rynek) by a cab. doors’ and the crypt, while a follow up solo tour allows you to really take stock of the riches and relics before you. Note that sightseeing is not possible on Sundays. Ask anyone and they’ll tell you the principal highlight of the cathedral is the Gniezno doors, a pair of winged bronze doors from the 12th century where you naturally begin your tour. The doors feature 18 panels, each masterfully engraved with scenes from the life of St. Adalbert of Prague, a 10th-century Czech missionary and eventual martyr who served as the bishop of Gniezno for a short period of time. Of note are an exorcism illustrated on the sixth panel and his murder on the fourteenth and fifteenth - yep, that’s his head on a stick. Worthy of further investigation in also the portal that frames the doors, a 1400 creation featuring an engraving of Jesus sitting on a rainbow (believed to mark the entrance to heaven) with two swords in his mouth - symbolic of the power he wields both in heaven and on Earth.

TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE An Aladdin’s cave of Gniezno-related info. Expect English language pamphlets, maps and brochures, as well as hotel and restaurant lists and guided tours supplied courtesy of an amicable young team of local enthusiasts.QRynek 14, tel. (+48) 61 428 41 00, www.szlakpiastowski.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00 Mon-Fri. Sat, Sun closed in March, 10:00-18:00 from April.

Photo by János Korom, CC BY-SA 2.0

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Gniezno Next up is a trip to the crypt - the highlights of which include Poland’s oldest gravestone, the coffins of the country’s past primates (the bishop variety, not mere placental mammals), and the pattern of the tiled floor (which also appears on the 10zł note) - before onto the cathedral proper. The most recent, Gothic iteration was built between 1342 and 1390 and embellished over the course of time, and nowadays it is the Baroque flourishes that steal the show. It’s impossible to put a figure on the number of must-see details, and it’s at this stage where having a guide becomes invaluable. The 13 arcades around the presbytery are symbolic of Jesus and the 12 apostles, and there’s a heavy emphasis on allegorical symbolism. At the rear of the cathedral you can spot one of only two works by Wit Stwosz found outside Kraków. In total the cathedral is surrounded by 13 side chapels holding a number of points of interest, including a miracle working crucifix found in the Chapel of Jesus. The cross has accompanied the Polish army into battle since the 17th century when it was first seen to bleed. The elaborate gold ‘confessio’ of St. Adalbert, situated at the top end of the cathedral, is stunning, and said to be modelled on the tomb of St. Peter in Rome. Beneath it is a silver sarcophagus, designed by Gdańsk master craftsman Peter van Rennen and carried on the figures of a priest, peasant, townsperson, and knight. Considered the most important relic in the country, the silver coffin contains parts of the saint’s body which escaped numerous lootings, including the daring Czech assault in 1038 (the same invasion that caused Gniezno to lose its capital status), which saw many of St. Adalbert’s remains transported to the cathedral in Prague. Unfortunately visitors are denied the opportunity to view the library. Treasures here include Poland’s oldest book (dating from 880 AD), a papal edict that features the first recorded use of the Polish language, and numerous letters penned by Poland’s former regents. Though frustrating, this locked door policy is fully understandable. The cathedral has had misfortune served up in spades. Its significance to the Polish state has not been lost on invaders and as a result it’s been burned, looted, battered, and destroyed on numerous occasions. Napoleon’s troops turned it into a stable, while the ‘liberating’ Red Army shelled it for no apparent reason. The Nazis, meanwhile, replaced St. Adalbert’s portrait with that of Hitler and planned to use the building as a concert venue for high-ranking fascists. Legend goes, however, that on opening night a bishop drifted unannounced across the hall and disappeared into the crypt below. Shots were fired at the unannounced gatecrasher, but none hit their mark, spooking the Nazis enough to scrap their plans and not set foot inside again. Unfortunately this didn’t stop them from employing Volksdeutsch workers and systematically stripping the building of its valuables, melting the gold and shipping off countless treasures to shady vaults. Only the confessio and the organ escaped them - the latter only to be blown up by the Soviets in 1945. The bell tower shared the same fate, which explains why you’ll see the original bell lying outside 8

Poznań In Your Pocket

the main entrance. Rebuilt (with no bell) the bell tower is open in the summer season, and its 231 steps lead to panoramic views across town. Qul. Łaskiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 424 13 89, www.wzgorzelecha.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00 until end of March, 09:00 - 17:00 from April, Closed Sun, Last entrance 30min before closing. Admission requires 3 tickets to see the cathedral’s 3 highlights: bell tower 4/2zł (summer only), underground 5/3zł (guide included), doors 6/4zł (guide included); or buy a combined ticket which also includes an audioguide and entry to the Archdiocese Museum for 21/11zł. A live guide taking you around the whole cathedral will set you back 80zł.

GNIEZNO ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM If your eyes are still hankering for the sight of more treasure after a trip to the cathedral, head here to view a lavish collection of ecclesiastical riches: golden goblets, embroidered vestments, state gifts received by cardinals, oil paintings, coffin portraits and even a chalice purporting to have once belonged to St. Adalbert are all presented here. A feast for the eyes that is sure to present moral dilemmas for kleptomaniacs.Qul. Kolegiaty 2, tel. (+48) 61 426 37 78, www.muzeumag.com. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun. Admission 10/6zł. N MUSEUM OF THE ORIGINS OF THE POLISH STATE Housed in a functional concrete carbuncle, this communistera museum features numerous audio-visual presentations designed to appeal to the constant school trips that file through the doors, as well as archaeological relics dating back to the founding of the Polish state – that means lots of pots, vases, bowls, and daggers. Visitors must wait for a larger group to form, and are then ushered into a procession of three rooms. Inside each, they are first told to sit through a brief propaganda film (English, German, French, Polish versions all supposedly available) about the might of the Polish empire and Christian religion (with the “brave and just soldiers of the great King Boleslaus” pitted against “hordes of savage Pagans”), and then to peruse the display cabinets in orderly left-to-right fashion.Qul. Kostrzewskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 426 46 41, www.muzeumgniezno.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. From April open 09:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 14/10zł, family ticket 42zł, group ticket over 10 people 12/8zł per person, Sun free. U

Arrival & Transport

Poznań Główny Train Station, AKA the Breadbox

BY TRAIN MAIN TRAIN STATION Poznań’s main train station (Dworzec Poznań Główny) is opposite the Trade Fair Centre and about 10 minutes by taxi to the main square. The site of a massive 160 million złoty redevelopment project over the last few years, a new transportation centre has arisen alongside the old train station building, creating a strange clash of deep People’s Republic and shiny 21st century - the latter packaged in a breadbox shape, as critics have sneered - with train platforms scattered confusingly between the two. Allow extra time to locate your train, and woe to those departing from the notoriously difficult to find platform 4a - reach it by following platform 4 (in the old section) to the very end, away from the trade fair grounds. If you see 4b, you’ve gone in the wrong direction. But back to the breadbox: modern and state-of-theart, it finally integrates rail, tram, and bus connections in one squeaky clean transit station. As a result, this is now the point of entry for most visitors to the city, including those arriving at the airport and taking the direct bus to the centre, which drops off here. In this day and age, it’s practically impossible for any new train station in Poland to not come prepackaged with a shopping centre, and that is certainly the case here: welcome to Avenida, a shopping haven with a food court and parking for 900 cars, plus additional opportunities for consumerism and refreshment spilling out into the train station hall. Other now-standard amenities include lockers for large luggage (have some coins handy), currency exchange, and bank machines. The city of Poznań operates a tourist information desk, but there’s also the PKP-operated Train Station Office 10 Poznań In Your Pocket

(open 07:00 - 21:00), which can help you plan your trip, get tickets, and even get into town. Normal ticket windows are conveniently open 24hrs, but using the ticket machines (which have English options) is just as easy. If you’re running late, note that it is possible to buy tickets onboard the train from the conductor for a small surcharge. Check the timetables online at the Polish railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has good English functionality; if you want a seat on a particular train, it is best to book ahead. Taxis await you immediately outside, and a ride to the main square costs about 20-30zł. Alternatively, hop on tram number 5 (to ‘Wrocławska’) or number 8 (to ‘Pl. Wielkopolski’) from the ‘Most Dworcowy’ stop located on the bridge, and you will only have a short 6-7 minute walk to the main square; a 10-minute ticket will suffice. QD‑9, ul. Dworcowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 391 97 57 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made between 24:00 - 01:00.

Arrival & Transport BY BUS

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

MAIN BUS STATION At the end of 2013, PKS Poznań Bus Station was integrated into the city’s spiffy new transportation centre below the Avenida shopping mall - more info on which you can find under Main Train Station, including what amenities are available, and how to get into town.QE‑9, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 703 30 33 30, www.pks.poznan.pl. Ticket office open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. TI open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. W

Poznań is crisscrossed by over one hundred tram and bus lines, including night routes, and represents the most time and cost efficient way to move about town. Due to frequent track work and route changes, however, your best bet for figuring out how to use public transport in Poz is the super-helpful website poznan.jakdojade.pl (mobile app also available), which can tell you exactly how to get from point A to Point B in English. Transport tickets are bought from automated machines found on most buses and trams, as well as at most transport stops, and thankfully you can pay by card (no need for coins!). The galaxy of ticket options are far too complex to review here; you can take it to heart that you won’t be leaving ‘Zone A’ unless you’re travelling far outside of the city-centre, as even Lake Malta is within Zone A. Tickets are timed, and the cheapest option is a notvery-cheap 3zł for only 10mins - which might only get you 3 or 4 stops. A 40-min ticket for 4.60zł is the safer bet, but if you plan on travelling often, you may want to consider a 24hr or 48hr ticket. Note that kids under five and adults over 70 ride for free.

BY PLANE

POZNAŃ ŁAWICA AIRPORT Poznań Ławica Airport lies a convenient 7km west of central Poznań. In the Arrivals terminal you’ll find an exchange bureau (kantor), cash machine (bankomat), and food vendors, as well as a tourist info point where you can pick up additional copies of Poznań’s best guidebook (wink). As with all sensible airports in this day and age, there is absolutely no left luggage facility. Getting to town is a cinch. Car rental is available, and taxis stand right outside the entrance, though you’ll probably overpay to take one. Aim to pay around 30-35zł for the taxi fare to the centre, but keep in mind that it can shoot up to 50zł during the nighttime; as always, agree on a fare with the driver before committing. Alternatively, cut costs by catching a bus, which will get you to the centre in 15-20 minutes. From the stop right outside the entrance, line 59 heads to ‘Rondo Kaponiera’ and the main train station (Poznań Główny) at least three times per hour from 05:05 to 24:00. At other times the airport is connected to the train station by night bus 242, which runs at 00:30, 01:30, 03:00, 04:00 daily; journey time 20 mins to ‘Most Teatralny’. Single 40-minute tickets (4.60zł) can be bought from kiosks, TI or ticket machines; remember to validate your ticket immediately upon boarding.Qul. Bukowska 285 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 43, www. airport-poznan.com.pl.

Finally, it is extremely important that you validate your ticket by punching it in the ‘kasowniks’ found by the bus/tram exit as soon as you board. Inspectors regularly travel the lines handing out hefty fines, and they aren’t sympathetic to tourists; seriously, riding without a ticket can not only ruin your day, but your entire trip to Poz.

TOURIST CARD Enterprising tourists should consider the Poznań Tourist Card - a splendid piece of plastic that entitles the bearer to free or discounted admission to more than 70 places, plus optional free travel on the city’s public transport system for a small additional fee. The card comes a guide explaining how to use it, which places offer free admission (most museums) and which offer discounts (a selection of restaurants, theatres, and other attractions such as the zoos and various leisure activities). The card can also be used in selected places outside of the city, such as Kórnik Castle, where it is valid for an additional day on top of the number of days it is valid in the city. Cards cost 49zł for 1 day (44zł without transport), 65zł for 2 days (55zł without transport), and 79zł for 3 days (65zł without transport), and can be purchased from every Tourist Information Centre as well as a few hotels. Every venue in our guide which accepts the Poznań Tourist Card has been marked with a TC symbol. poznan.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Transport BY CAR

CAR RENTAL

Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of getting behind the wheel here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed. The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/ hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licences technically invalid (though this has never been a problem for anyone we know). Driving to Poznań is fairly easy as it’s on the main E30 highway between Warsaw and Berlin. Once you’ve arrived, driving around Poznań’s congested one-way streets can be incredibly trying, however, so we suggest you ditch your vehicle for public transport at the first opportunity, which raises the question of where to put it. Public parking lots are marked on the maps in the back of our print guide, and free parking is basically non-existent, though some hotels have limited parking spaces for guests; check when booking your room. For street parking you’ll easily recognise the universal large blue ‘P’ sign, but be aware that a blue circle with a red ‘X’ over it means ‘No Parking’ (not sure which universe that sign is from). Pay via the automated ticket machines on the sidewalk, but note that they only take coins or special chip cards from the parking authority office (so forget that option). Generally having a private car in Poznań is a bad idea unless you have a safe, inexpensive place to keep it.

All most travellers need to rent a car in PL is 18 years of age, a credit card (not debit), and a valid foreign driver’s licence. Be aware, however, that those from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic (United States, China, Australia...) cannot legally drive on their home licences; technically an International Driver’s License is required in those cases. Though some rental companies (the dodgier ones) will still rent you a car, be aware that you are assuming full liability for any damages if you get behind the wheel; you also run the risk of getting a citation from the police for driving without a valid license. If you’re looking to leave the country, be aware that you can’t cross the Polish borders into Ukraine, Belarus or Lithuania in a rental car. AVIS Also at Pl. Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel, G-9).Qul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 221 13 91 64 , www.avis.pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. DUDA-CARS Qul. Ptasia 4, tel. (+48) 61 864 44 44. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. EUROPCAR Qul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 57, www.europcar.pl. Open 08:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 23:30.

TAXIS Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable and use their metres without any fiddling around. Calling ahead should get you a better fare, but if you hail one from the street make sure you choose a clearly marked cab with a company name and phone number displayed, as well as a sticker demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a printed receipt at journey’s end further limiting the likelihood of any funny business. You should expect to pay 5zł for entering the taxi followed by 2zł per kilometre. Prices rise on Sundays, holidays, late at night and for travel outside of the city limits. EURO TAXI Qtel. (+48) 61 811 11 11, www.euro-taxi.com.pl. RADIO LUX TAXI Qtel. (+48) 61 196 62, www.luxtaxi.com.pl. TALIXO Qtel. (+48) 30 346 49 73 60, www.talixo.com/iyppoznan.

The ‘Maluch’ - iconic communist-era family car, and sadly unavailable to rent.

12 Poznań In Your Pocket

ZTP POZNAŃ Qtel. (+48) 61 196 22, www.taxi.com.pl.

Arrival & Transport

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What’s On

Enea Spring Break (p. 17) | Photo: Jacek Mójta

EVENTS BY DATE 03.03 19:00 » FILM MUSIC FESTIVAL

Music Film Festival is now on its 3rd tour. Special guestBeata Kozidrak, Justyna Steczkowska, Natalia Kukulska, Kasia Cerekwicka, Agata Nizińska, Kasia Moś, Tomasz Tomson Lach, Grzegorz Hyży, Sławek Uniatowski, Łukasz Zagrobelny will be amongst the special artists to this year’s festival.QA‑10, Hala Arena, ul. Wyspiańskiego 33, tel. (+48) 61 866 60 31, Tickets 99-249zł.

08.03 19:00 » CHRIS DE BURGH & BAND LADY IN RED DAY

Marking International Women’s Day the group Chris de Burgh & Band will perform a special rendition of ‘Lady in Red Day’. Chris de Burgh is known for many hits like “The Lady in Red”, “High On Emotion”, “Sailing Away”, “Do not Pay The Ferryman” and “Missing You”. His career includes a total of 18 studio albums, over 2,500 concerts around the world, countless tributes and groundbreaking works, and the sale of his albums have exceeded 40 million copies.QA‑10, Hala Arena, ul. Wyspiańskiego 33, tel. (+48) 61 866 60 31. Tickets from 220zł.

11.03 19:00 » GIVE ME TENOR

The best selling comedy by Ken Ludwig has been performed in over 200 theatres around the world. A story with an explosive mix of love, jealousy, business and dreams will premiere under the direction of Marcin 14 Poznań In Your Pocket

Sławiński at the Grande Theatre in Poznań. QF‑9, Music Theatre, ul. Niezłomnych 1e, tel. (+48) 61 852 29 27, Tickets 79-129zł, www.teatr-muzyczny.poznan.pl.

14.03 19:00, 07.06 19:00, 09.06 18:00 » THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO

The Marriage of Figaro comic opera was composed in 1786 by Mozart, premiering by Vienna in the same year. Ever since then, it’s remained one of the absolute favorite operatic creations, still in the top ten of the most-performed operas worldwide today. Poznań version directed by Marek Weiss; performed in the original Italian language.QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, Tickets 12130zł, www.opera.poznan.pl.

17.03 18:00, 19.03 19:00, 19.05 18:00, 21.05 19:00 » NABUCCO

Giuseppe Verdi’s opera in four acts Nabucco (that’s short for Nabucodonosor) is based on biblical stories from the Book of Daniel and the Book of Jeremiah. This version will be performed in the original Italian by Poznań Great Theatre soloists and choir; music direction by Tadeusz Kozłowski.QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, Tickets 15-130zł, www.opera.poznan.pl.

19.03 - 24.03 » SHORT WAVES FESTIVAL

You may have noticed quite a number of short film festivals popping up on the Polish cultural landscape these days, but this one presents itself as the most “concise” of all.

What’s On We certainly won’t contend that—given this year will be the festival’s 10th edition, we can imagine the organisers have managed to work out quite the bullet-proof system when it comes to a successful audience experience. Succinctness and efficiency aside, this festival is surely unique: it’s the only one we’ve heard about to date that involves welcoming audiences into random Poznanians’ private apartments for special film screenings. Cool, right? It’s like Tinder for short films. (Except not.) Films are presented in 5 categories: International Competition, Polish Competition, Dances with Camera, Urban View and Best of Ten. Screenings and accompanying events take place in various locations scattered across the city, including art house cinemas, galleries, clubs, and cultural centres.QF‑7, ZAMEK Culture Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.shortwaves.pl.

25.03 12:00 & 18:00 » ALICE IN WONDERLAND

The show Alice in Wonderland, a ballet-operatic-acrobatic interpretation of Lewis Carroll’s story, takes viewers through the looking-glass and into the dreamlike world of a child’s imagination. The journey is full of unforgettable aesthetic experiences, musical inspirations, and choreographic enchantments. The spectacle is made unique by the fact that students from Poznań’s artistic schools perform in it alongside professionals. It is an example of a multi-faceted artistic dialogue between the childish and the grown-up. QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, Tickets 12-130zł, www.opera.poznan.pl.

27.03 20:00 » JULIA PIETRUCHA - FROM THE SEASIDE 2

From TV, to film, and now music—Julia Pietrucha is a multi-talent that has been capturing the hearts of Polish people (and not only) for some time now. If the big screen wasn’t enough, she’s been taking over the airwaves ever since her 2016 debut album Parsley, which was more than well-received by critics and sparked the inception of an ever-growing musical fan-base. The success of her debut album also landed her a spot at the really-big-deal Open’er Festival in 2017, and as they say, the rest is history. With delicate melodies featuring a dash of folk accompanied by sounds of the ukulele, mandolin and trombone—and a last name that’s reminiscent of Poland’s favourite garnish— what’s not to love?QF‑7, Poznań Philharmonic, ul. Św. Marcin 81, tel. (+48) 61 852 47 08. Tickets 69-169zł. www.goodtaste.pl.

28.03 - 31.03 » MOTOR SHOW FAIR

Poznań is the city of industrial fairs, and the Motor Show might be one of the most interesting ones hosted by the city. See some of the best and newest cars, campers, and motorcycles. According to organisers, this is the biggest car show in this part of Europe - presumably Central-Eastern. We don’t know if that’s true, but the fair is definitely worth checking out if you’re into automobiles.QD‑9, Poznań Congress Center, ul. Głogowska 14, tel. (+48) 61 869 20 00, Tickets 25-120zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (C-3; ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall)), www.motorshow.pl. poznan.inyourpocket.com

What’s On 29.03 19:00, 31.03 18:00 » DONIZETTI’S ELIXIR OF LOVE

12-14th April 2019 Poznań

For a long time, he wanted her. Then, finally, she wanted him. Was it a magical love potion or perhaps a sizeable inheritance that did the trick? With everything you’d want in a love story: unsure motives, jealousy, indifference, despair, euphoria, and of course, a happy ending—there’s no wonder The Elixir of Love is on the list of the most-performed operas worldwide. QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, Tickets 6-100zł, www.opera.poznan.pl.

05.04 20:00 » DOROTA MIŚKIEWICZ- PIANO.PL

Singer Dorota Miśkiewicz’s past experience includes working with Anna Maria Jopek, Nigel Kennedy and Cesaria Evora. She has performed at numerous festivals: several times at the Festival in Opole, Jazz Jamboree, Old Jazz Meeting “Złota Tarka” and the Edinburgh Jazz & Blues Festival . Fans can expect to hear work from her new album – “Piano.pl”, emphasising the achievements of Polish pianists including Włodzimierz Nahorny, and Andrzej Jagodziński. QH‑5, Aula Artis, ul. Gen. Tadeusza Kutrzeby 10. Tickets 99-159zł. www.goodtaste.pl.

05.04 - 11.04 » SPANISH FILM WEEK

One week, 9 Polish cities, and a whole lot of film. As the title suggests, Spanish Film Week provides a glimpse into the world of Spanish film—presenting some of the country’s most important and most popular recently released flicks. The best way to cultivate new potential tourists is through film, don’t you think? Even if you aren’t planning a springtime vacation, this might just be the ideal time to do a little cinematic-style getaway of sorts.QG‑8, Muza, ul. Św. Marcin 30, tel. (+48) 61 852 34 03, www.kinomuza.pl.

06.04 - 14.04 » EASTER FAIR

After December’s Christmas Fair, it’s time for the Easter Fair - this time around the wooden stalls will be filled with decorated eggs, woven baskets, sheep made out of sugar lumps, Easter palms, seasonal baked goods, and various pastel-colored craft items. Might be a good place to pick up a souvenir or two and sample some rye soup and dumplings.QG/H‑7, Plac Wolności, Plac Wolności, Open 11:00 - 19:00, www.targowiska.com.pl.

12.04 20:00 » AQUANET JAZZ FESTIVAL: AFROISTIC TRIO

Afroistic Trio, a band of musically gifted and artistic personalities including Senegalese guitar virtuoso and charismatic singer Herve Samb, American bassist Reggie Washington and master of percussion instruments Ulri Yul Edorh. Be ready for funk , African styles of jazz, and groovy improvisation! QF‑7, Blue Note Jazz Club, ul. Kościuszki 79, tel. (+48) 61 851 04 08. Tickets 80-100zł. www.jazz.pl.

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What’s On 13.04 19:00 » AQUANET JAZZ FESTIVAL: RADIO STRING QUARTET

In commemoration of the 50th anniversary of the death of Krzysztof Trzciński-Komeda, his jazz music will be revived by the Radio String Quartet. He is known for composing the scores for several films by Roman Polanski and for his strong influence on the style of music often called the Polish school of jazz.QF‑7, ZAMEK Culture Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60. Tickets 100-120zł. www.jazz.pl.

13.04 19:00 » KUBA BADACH

Kuba Badach won the Fryderyk Award in 2011 and 2012 for Vocalist of the Year and has a background of performing since his preteen years. Vocalist, instrumentalist, composer, arranger, and music producer, he is known primarily for his many years of performances with the band Poluzjanci. In 2009 he released album “Tribute to Andrzej Zaucha” with arrangements by Jacek Piskorz and himself.QD‑9, Poznań Congress Center, ul. Głogowska 14, tel. (+48) 61 869 20 00. Tickets 69149zł. www.goodtaste.pl.

14.04 » KRZYSZTOF ZALEWSKI

The vocalist, musician, and composer is known for his stage presence leaving many audiences hoping for more. Krzysztof Zalewski had his breakthrough with the release of his album in 2016 titled “Gold” which had humble beginnings in the clubs of Poland and progressing to some of the largest concert halls in the country. During this tour you will hear interpretations of Czesław Niemen from his latest album “Zalewski sings Niemen”.QTama Club, ul. Niezłomnych 2. Tickets 7999zł. www.goodtaste.pl.

14.04 19:00 » AQUANET JAZZ FESTIVAL: REBEKKA BAKKEN

The Norwegian star Rebekka Bakken has been described as “The most popular singer of Scandinavia” with her unique voice and jazz sound. Her early years were spent singing folk and church songs and expanded to funk music, soul and rock music while performing with local bands. Her current career has seen her take a cosmopolitan journey expanding her places of residence to New York and Vienna. Her latest album has a bit of American rhythm & blues, rock and funky moods.QH‑5, Aula Artis, ul. Gen. Tadeusza Kutrzeby 10, Tickets 80150zł, www.jazz.pl.

15.04 19:00 » ALE MUSICALE!

Theatre Roma presents the best of the classics and current musicals from the world’s musical scene. They surprise audience with great arias, romantic duets and thrilling collective scenes. Ale Musicale is an opportunity to see some classical pieces of art like “Jesus Christ Superstar”, “Les Miserables”, “Notre-Dame de Paris”, “Mamma Mia!””.QA‑10, Hala Arena, ul. Wyspiańskiego 33, tel. (+48) 61 866 60 31, Tickets from 75zł, www.teatrroma.pl. poznan.inyourpocket.com

What’s On 25.04 - 27.04 » ENEA SPRING BREAK: SHOWCASE FESTIVAL & CONFERENCE 2019

Enea Spring Break is one of the biggest showcase festivals in Poland, acting as a conduit between some of the freshest up-and-coming Polish artists and an impressive number of Poland’s highly influential representatives in the music industry. While providing a great networking experience for those seeking to step up their musical careers, it comes as no surprise that thousands of people frequent the various concerts and venues showcasing Poland’s creamof-the-crop musical talents. This year’s lineup includes Alpha Females, Izzy & The Black Trees, The Cassino, Seeme and many other artists you may or may not (yet) know. QG/H‑7, Plac Wolności, Plac Wolności, Pass ticket for 3 days 105zł, www.spring-break.pl.

18.05 18:00 » NIGHT OF MUSEUMS

The first Night of Museums took place in Berlin in 1997, and the concept spread through Europe like wildfire: currently over 120 major European cities (and many minor ones) organise their own museum nights. It’s a pretty big deal, with thousands of people heading out to take part and visit museums big or small. If you’re into this kind of stuff, keep in mind that Kraków is organising the event a night early, giving you a chance to swing by both cities (they’re certainly both worth it). Follow facebook to find more attraction during Night of Museums in Poznan. QAdmission free, www.nocmuzeow.poznan.pl.

26.05, 28.05 18:00 » CARMEN

One of the absolute must-sees of the operatic world, Georges Bizet’s exotic and once-controversial Carmen is worth seeing anywhere, anytime. Denis Krief’s version, although bereft of classic costumes and set design, remains a universal tale of unchanging human passions. Performed in the original French with Polish supertitles. QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31. Tickets 12-130zł. www.opera.poznan.pl.

02.06, 04.06 19:00 » FIDDLER ON THE ROOF

Chances are your time on this earth means you’ve come in contact with Fiddler on the Roof in one way or another— either you’ve seen it live (as it’s one of the longest-running Broadway shows in history) or you’ve seen the movie (because at some point in your life you’ve owned a TV). But have you seen it performed by top-class actors in Poznań? Well, there’s a first time for everything. (Or a second, or a third...) This musical, set in Imperial Russia in 1905, is a story about love, faith, family, and the tensions brought on by the need for preservation of Jewish traditions and culture. Language: PolishQF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, www.opera.poznan.pl.

What’s going on? facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket 18 Poznań In Your Pocket

13.06 - 16.06 » ETHNO PORT FESTIVAL

We’re always excited when Ethno Port rolls around, and you should be, too. Featuring music from around the world (and we mean a legitimately diverse selection), this music festival crosses all sorts of boundaries into visual arts, literature, theatre, dance, and cinema. In previous years, Ethno Port has hosted artists from Mali, Hungary, Norway, Ukraine, Maroko, Columbia, India, Egypt, Spain, France, Romania, New Guinea and Cape Verde, among many others. This year, the festival will be inaugurated with a concert titled “Conversation(s),” featuring A Filetta, an all-male singing group from Corsica and Fadia Tomb ElHage from Lebanon.QF‑7, ZAMEK Culture Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, Tickets 20-150zł, www.ethnoport.pl.

17.06 - 19.06 » ENTER ENEA FESTIVAL

Enter the Enter Music Festival in Poznań’s hip Jeżyce district! Perfect early-summer relaxation awaits at the Strzeszyńskie Lake with a yet-unknown line-up of musicians; previous years’ performers included Gaba Kulka, Olo Walicki, Możdżer Danielsson Fresco Trio, Andrzej Bauer, Zohar Fresco Quartet, Atom String Quartet, and Cellonet.QFull schedule and ticket prices undecided at the moment, www.enterfestival.pl.

21.06 - 30.06 » MALTA FESTIVAL

The biggest summer highlight on the city’s cultural calendar, Malta has been something of a Poznań institution since its original conception back in 1991 as the International Theatre Festival. In the past the festival has seen performances by Nine Inch Nails, Goran Bregovic, Jan Kaczmarek, Elvis Costello, Sinead O’Connor, and the Buena Vista Social Club. Strangely, however, the musical focus is something of a recent trend. When it started, the festival focused on theatre alone, and was promoted as the Polish version of the Edinburgh Festival – full of fringe acts performing abstract plays. Fortunately, and in spite of the growing pull towards the mainstream, alternative theatre still plays a huge part in the Malta Festival. On top of that, there’ll be plenty of film screenings, workshops, and exhibitions at venues across town.QN‑8, Lake Malta, ul. Wiankowa 3, tel. (+48) 61 876 60 11, Admission free, www.malta-festival.pl.

EXHIBITIONS UNTIL 30.06 » IN BLACK AND WHITE IN COLOR

Remember when people took pictures with film? And even without color? This exhibit includes these photos from various places around Poland, but with a small twist. The black and white images have been filled in with the likely colors based on the date and location where they were taken. Everything else about the original image remains the same... any defects or cracks will still be visible. QJ‑8, Ethnographic Museum, ul. Mostowa 7, tel. (+48) 61 852 30 06, Admission 1/7zł, Sat free, www.mnp.art.pl.

What’s On UNTIL 31.03 » NARRATIVES. BOHDAN CIEŚLAK

Bohdan Cieślak is a Polish scenographer and innovator. He experiments with scenographies and creates original and unconventional stage solutions. The exhibition at the National Museum in Poznań shows around 200 pieces of his sketches and drawings presenting surprising perspectives. The artist made his work on the best Polish stages, including The Polish Theatre in Poznań , The Theatre of Contemporary Arts in Szczecin, Studio Theater in Warsaw.QH‑7, National Museum, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. (+48) 61 856 80 00, Admission 5/7zł, www.mnp.art.pl.

UNTIL 10.03 » UNIMPORTANT SCENES

In contrast to the photos we are typically bombarded with of politicians and plastic barbie dolls, Jan Kurek spent most of his time taking photos of the ignored parts of society. During the years of 1967-69, he documented the lives of people who were of no importance to the agenda of the day. As a television operator, he knew the reasons for putting out only the correct message and the imagery that was supposed to accompany it. The exhibition “Unimportant Scenes” will showcase the rural daily happenings of the people who deal with matters that seem to always be pushed aside in the records of history. QL‑6, Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre of Cathedral Island, ul. Gdańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 647 76 34, Admission free, www.bramapoznania.pl.

UNTIL 29.09 » SIGN OF POLISH NATURE

The Poznań village outfit is one of the two folk costumes used in Poznań. Wearing the costume was a manifestation of Polishness and was even required to be worn by servants in homes of Poznanians. The Poznań Ethnographic Museum has the only collection of Poznanian clothing in Poland, keeping this lesser-known costume from being forgotten. QJ‑8, Ethnographic Museum, ul. Mostowa 7, tel. (+48) 61 852 30 06, Admission 8zł. Tue free., www.mnp.art.pl.

UNTIL 07.04 » UNLIKE PAINTINGS

The painter Monika Chlebek presents her work with a style of a fragmented whole. She does not strive to tell a story for you to ingest, but one where the story has to be fused together with your own interpretation. Her work will be on display at the Arsenał City Gallery. QH‑7, Arsenał City Gallery, Stary Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 61 852 95 02, Admission free, www.arsenal.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 31.03 » ARCHEOLOGY OF GNIEZNO

Gniezno is one of the former capitals of Poland and holds archaeological gems in the soil. ‘Archaeology of Gniezno’ is an exhibition that presents the excavations that have taken place over this land from the late 19th century till present day. As with any excavations the artefacts will also be on display so you can gain a glimpse of how the region lived in the past. QI‑7, Archaeological Museum, ul. Wodna 27 (Pałac Górków), tel. (+48) 61 852 82 51, Admission 4-8zł, www.muzarp.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. poznan.inyourpocket.com

Poznań Sightseeing Crowded with cobbled streets, soaring steeples and historical monuments, Poznań’s Old Town is a collage of architectural styles and historical monuments, waiting to be explored… 20 Poznań In Your Pocket

Sightseeing A city of half a million with a history dating back to the 8th century, considered a likely site of the baptism of Polish ruler Mieszko I and thus the birthplace of the Polish state, Poznań is the capital of the Wielkopolska region and a popular business and tourism destination. Its runs as the residence of early Polish kings, a medieval trade hub, Prussian-occupied Posen, a WWII Festung, and finally its return to Poland created a city rife with historical monuments, with much to offer those who enjoy outstanding architecture and diverse cultural attractions. While part of the beauty of Poznań lies in aimlessly roaming the streets and alleys, making chance findings from one turn to the next, there are a number of must-see sights whose discovery should not be left to chance. Your natural start point should be the Old Town, and its main square, the glorious Stary Rynek; we make touring both easy with two sections beginning on the next page. Along the way, make sure not to miss the gem of the Old Town, the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus (p.29), which boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists as well as a flamboyant pink facade, and Poznań’s two castles, the Royal Castle (p.31), once the seat of the first Polish kings, and the Imperial Castle (p.33), built as the residence of Prussian ruler Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1910. Once done with the wonders of the Old Town, make your way across the river to the most important place of worship in Poznań, the Poznań Cathedral on Ostrów Tumski (p.34) with its twin towers and surrounding chapels. This is the site connected with Mieszko’s baptism, a story which is now told in all its glory at Porta Posnania (p.34). Poznań also boasts some glorious parks and green spaces. Lake Malta (p.40), just east of the centre is one of the more unique urban leisure areas in the country, and offers loads of family activities for all seasons, including skiing, roller-coasters, and the New Zoo. Meanwhile, just north of the Old Town lies Citadel Park (p.37) with 89 hectares of public greenery stuffed with interesting monuments, and even two museums focussed on the city’s military past. Those with an interest in more recent history will no doubt also appreciate museums dedicated to Poznań’s two famous uprisings, the 1918 Wielkopolska Uprising against Prussians (p.45) and the 1956 Uprising against communist authorities (p.43), and the Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum (p.45) housed in a former Gestapo penal camp. Also keep an eye out on the multitude of cultural events taking place in and around the city, especially in the summer - we list the highlights in our ‘what’s on’ section starting on p.14. No matter how long your stay, you’ll find plenty in Poznań to keep your interest. Use our guide to explore it all and enjoy one of Poland’s most ancient and exciting cities.

GUIDED TOURS If an authoritative print guide and expansive web portal simply aren’t enough, and you need someone to literally take you by the hand (hey, we kid), there are plenty of tour companies to choose from in Poznań and we list the best of them here. CITY EVENT POZNAŃ More from City Guide Poznań - going beyond walking tours and standard tourist itineraries, City Event Poznań organises multimedia city games, foodie and feast tours, beer excursions, costumed performers, and more. Perfect for groups, school field trips, and team building.Qtel. (+48) 608 28 42 08, www.cityeventpoznan.pl. CITY GUIDE POZNAŃ Excellent local guides offering tours in English, German, Polish, Italian, Russian, French and Spanish to attractions throughout Poznań and beyond (the Piast Route). During Poland’s EU presidency, City Guides was chosen to show delegates of the European Commission around the city - solid credentials indeed. Their sister company, City Event Poznań, organises segway and beer tours as well.Qtel. (+48) 608 28 42 08, www.cityguide-poznan.com.pl. VISITPOZNAŃ VisitPoznan offers a wide variety of traditional and alternative-themed walking tours for groups and individuals. Regular Old Town tours (20zł) in English will leave from the main square Tourist Information Centre Fri and Sat at 17:00 starting in May; other languages and tours by prior arrangement, with prices below.Qtel. (+48) 663 03 62 95, www.visitpoznan.info. For groups 1-6 people 190zł/2hrs, 250zł/3hrs, 340zł/5hrs; prices negotiable for larger groups.

TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Assistance in Polish, English, German, French, Russian, and Italian.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 59/60, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 56, www.poznan.travel.pl. Open 09:30 - 18:00. Sun 09:30 - 17:00. TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE QD‑9, ul. Dworcowa 2 (Main Train Station), tel. (+48) 61 633 10 16, www.poznan.travel.pl. Open 09:00 17:00. TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Qul. Bukowska 285 (Poznań Ławica Airport, Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 43, www.poznan. travel.pl. Open 24 hours. poznan.inyourpocket.com

Stary Rynek Walking Tour

Photo by Łukasz Wypiór. Courtesy of City of Poznań a

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Monument of the 15th Poznań Lancers Regiment

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Apollo Fountain

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Musical Instruments Museum

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Franciscan Church

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The Holy Blood of Lord Jesus Church

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Royal Castle

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Stary Rynek Walking Tour Packed with monuments, landmarks, museums, and mementos from the city’s rich history, Poznańs marvellous Old Town Square warrants more than a passing glance and smartphone pic. Faithfully reconstructed after the immense damage of WWII, the Square can easily take a few hours to properly explore and enjoy. 1 OLD TOWN HALL First erected in the early 14th century, Poznań’s glorious Town Hall (Ratusz) really flowered in mid-1500s when Italian architect Giovanni Quadro of Lugano added the Renaissance loggia, attic, and classical tower, earning the structure acclaim as ‘the most beautiful building north of the Alps.’ Unfortunately a catalogue of historic disasters - including a 1675 fire, 1725 hurricane and WWII bomb damage - have resulted in the sad reality that today little of the original structure actually remains, though it has been faithfully rebuilt to retain its status as the city’s showpiece.

Today the Old Town Hall houses the Historical Museum of Poznań, whose collection encompasses exhibits from the 10th century till the present day. The biggest draw is the Great Entrance Hall with its elaborately decorated vault, supported by two huge pillars. The tableaux are inspired by the bible, astrology and figures from mythology. Directly outside the Town Hall is the original whipping post (Pranger), dating from 1535, with a recently repaired figure of Poz’s executioner standing on top. Crowds gather outside the Town Hall each day to witness two mechanical billy goats emerge from a door above the clock at precisely 12:00 and proceed to butt heads twelve times. Simultaneously, a trumpeter plays the town’s traditional bugle call from a balcony. The bugle call (hejnał) dates back at least to the 15th century, and the goats have been ramming heads 1551. Replaced and restored over the years, the present pair have been bludgeoning each other since 1954. Of course there’s a half-baked legend to go along with them: When the clock was completed in 1511, the governor of the Poznań province was invited for the unveiling. The hapless cook preparing the celebratory feast burnt the venison, so he went out and managed to steal a pair of goats to serve instead. Alas, the goats escaped and traipsed up to the top of City Hall, where the governor saw them butting heads and decreed they be added to the clock. The rest, as they say, is history - much like the cook, who was likely tied to the whipping post and given a bloody good thrashing. QI‑7, Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 61 856 81 93, www.mnp. art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 7/15zł, Sat free.

The Town Hall Goats

2 HISTORICAL MUSEUM OF POZNAŃ Open till the end of March, then closing for renovations. The show-stealing Town Hall proves a fitting venue for a museum of this stature. The gothic cellars – originally the municipal prison - hold exhibits dating back to the earliest times of settlement in the 10th century. On the ground floor, rooms built in the 16th century hold exhibits covering the city’s urban and economic development during that time. The Renaissance Hall, Royal Hall, and Court Hall on the first floor hold the most valuable documents and artefacts, and the opulent vaulted ceilings – depicting griffins, lions, and eagles - are worth the photography surcharge alone. Exhibits include a 13th century crosier from Limoges, a table clock with the Poznań coat of arms from 1575 and a globe from 1688. Much of the second floor is dedicated to the 19th century when the city was under Prussian rule, and features everyday objects and portraits of prominent citizens. The final part of the museum depicts the history of 20th century Poznań, and exhibits include the disturbing photograph of a swastika fluttering from the Town Hall.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 61 856 81 93, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 15:00. Fri 12:00 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 7/1-5zł, Sat free. NY

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App Historical Museum of Poznań

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Stary Rynek Walking Tour 5 WIELKOPOLSKA MILITARY MUSEUM Situated inside a brutal communist-era pavilion, the Military Museum documents the history of the Polish military from the 11th century onwards. Starting with scythes and halberds the collection includes the armour of winged hussars, sabres, muskets and cannons, as well as portraits of Polish military commanders and famous moments in their history. The unwieldy musket ‘kolowy’ is a particularly impressive effort, and surely completely useless in combat. The 20th century section features grenades, compasses and medical kits, and the upstairs is devoted to the Wielkopolska Uprising, with medals, uniforms and postcards from the era. The collection was decimated during WWII, with the only surviving item being a fragment of Wojciech Kossak’s 1901 painting, The Battle of the Pyramids.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 9, tel. (+48) 61 852 67 39, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. From June 16 open Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. Admission 7/1-5zł. Sat free. NY

Pranger 3 PRANGER Just outside the Town Hall, near its southeast corner, you’ll find the proudly protruding Pranger, a 16th-century punishment device funded by fines placed on servant women, wet-nurses, and barmaids who dressed up too frilly or wore jewellery deemed inappropriate for their social standing (the outrage!). Topped with a severe statue of a sword-wielding executioner in a Crusader’s outfit, unlucky criminals would be chained to this octagonal column and whipped, or - if the executioner was feeling fancy or the crime warranted it - have his ears or fingers chopped off. Sadly, the contraption no longer elicits deserved fear, as evidenced by repeated vandalism by drunken students and football hooligans - an offence which would surely be more creatively punished in the Pranger’s heyday than in our current times. Luckily, the original isn’t actually in any danger, as it has long been moved to the Historical Museum and replaced with a copy.QI‑7, Stary Rynek. 4 BUDNICY HOUSES To the left of the Town Hall is perhaps the most recognisable Poznań sight: the picture-book-worthy, technicolor row of townhouses planted right in the middle of the Main Square. Originally called “herring shops” (budy śledziowe), they were home to merchants, and their arcades held fish, candle, torch, and salt stands. They were later renamed to Budnicy Houses (domki budnicze) in honour of a class of merchants known as Budnicy, whose headquarters used to operate at no. 117. Look closely and you’ll see their coat of arms on the facade: three palm trees and a herring.QI‑7, Stary Rynek.

24 Poznań In Your Pocket

6 JOHN OF NEPOMUK MONUMENT As you stroll Stary Rynek, you’ll see numerous monuments, including this noteworthy 1724 figure of John of Nepomuk (Jan Nepomucen), a Bohemian martyr saint who was tortured and drowned in the Vltava River after refusing to divulge the secrets of the Queen of Bohemia’s confessional to her jealous husband Wenceslaus. It was hoped that the saint would be able to protect the city from repeated, disastrous floods, but ultimately the 1960’s re-routing of the Warta River did a far better job of that.QI‑7, Stary Rynek.

John of Nepomuk Monument

Photo by kwolana, CC BY-SA 3.0

Stary Rynek Walking Tour 7 ARSENAŁ CITY GALLERY Founded in the late 1940s under the somewhat commiesounding name Central Exhibition Bureau, Arsenał is one of the oldest players on Poznań’s art gallery scene - and probably the most important, especially given its very central location. Currently organised by the Poznań City Council, the institution hosts exhibitions by Polish and foreign contemporary artists and organises educational meetings.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 61 852 95 02, www.arsenal.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. 8 OD:ZYSK The weirdest spot on the Old Market Square, this former squat is a testament to the city’s large anarchist presence. The late 19th century building on the square’s corner housed a succession of fashion stores, before it was abandoned by its owners sometime in the early 21st century, a signal for the local anarchists to take over. The move took place in late 2012, sparking conflict with city authorities; the squatters used the space to host parties, concerts, and various anarchist events while simultaneously housing some fifty people in shabby conditions, which put the Old Square’s peaceful touristy appeal in some jeopardy. It took until 2015 for the two sides to come to an agreement: the anarchists would move out in exchange for 125 thousand zł (some 35 thousand USD), which would go towards helping the city’s evictees and debtors. Since then, the graffitied and postered building has stood empty, though there are plans to eventually turn it into a posh hotel and restaurant. This doesn’t mean that the anarchists have left the centre completely; you’ll still find them running the Zemsta cafe and bookstore and tagging city walls with leftist messages, while their headquarters remain at ul. Rozbrat, just off Pułaskiego. QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 2.

POZNAŃ STREET ART

2017 mural by Maupal, ul. Nowowiejskiego 17 (G-6).

For a long time, the height of Polish street art amounted to scrawling less-print-friendly versions of “All Cops Are Bastards” and “Lech Poznań 4ever” on residential buildings and/or historical monuments in the dead of night, while the ‘artist’s’ accomplices kept watch on the street corner. Older Poles will also remember the occasional party-sanctioned propaganda murals - not the best connotation either. It was only around 20092010 that quality outdoor art started rapidly gaining ground in PL, spawning mural artists and street art festivals throughout the country. The local scene took off in 2011 with the first edition of the Outer Spaces Festival, which saw renowned muralists from Italy, The Netherlands, Spain, and France invited to spice up the drab exteriors of five carefullychosen buildings. The project was a hit, and two more editions were organised, adding a pop of optimism to Wilda and Jeżyce. Not everyone has opted for the legal route, however: a certain Banksy-esque character operating under the pseudonym Noriaki is responsible for an infestation reminiscent of Wrocław’s ‘gnome problem,’ tagging the city walls with variations of Pan Peryskop (Mr. Periscope) AKA The Watcher - a loveable maverick who has integrated himself into the fabric of the city. Keep an eye out, and you’ll realise this watchful rascal is ubiquitous, peering from walls, walking his dog, playing b-ball, and getting passed-out drunk depending on the circumstances. In the summer you can even meet him at Peryskop Garden (p. 66), a street-art-themed hangout. Fancy a walking tour of Poznań’s best street art? We’ve not only marked street art locations on our maps with a spray can icon , but we’ve also put it all online with GPS coordinates at iyp.me/poznanstreetart so that your smartphone can do the work for you. We encourage you to do just that, and check out some of Poz’s alternative artistic visions.

Od:zysk

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Stary Rynek Walking Tour MYTHOLOGICAL FOUNTAINS

Apollo Fountain

Guarding the corners of the square are four mythological fountains depicting Neptune, Mars, Apollo, and perhaps in order to combat the under-representation of the fairer sex - Proserpina. The fountains date back to at least the 16th century, though the original adornments were quite different: historical records show a commision for wooden sculptures of a lion and a deer. In the 17th century, city authorities decided to go Roman and splurge on figures of mythological dieties, also in wood (later they were redone in stone). Of the four currently standing, only Proserpina is the original, dating back to 1766; it depicts the goddess of grain and agriculture being abducted by Pluto. The other three fountains were revealed between 2002 and 2005 and placed in their correct historical spots. 9 GUARDHOUSE This 18th-century police guardhouse was originally haphazardly constructed using wood, and later redone in classicist style by Jan Chrystian Kamsetzer in 1783-1787. In the inter-war period, it served as a garrison jailhouse. Like much of the Old Town, this structure was all but levelled in the Battle of Poznań in 1945, and the building had to be reconstructed in later years, serving as the Workers’ Movement Museum during communism. It currently houses the 1818-1819 Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (p.45).QH‑7, Stary Rynek 3.

Municipal Scales Building

10 MUNICIPAL SCALES BUILDING This cute, freestanding building on the Main Square almost looks like something out of Hansel and Gretel. Originally constructed in 1534, it once housed hardware for weighing merchandise on its way to the market. The little that remains of the original furnishings is now located in the Historical Museum, and the building itself is used by the city’s civil registry to issue marriage certificates.QH/I‑7, Stary Rynek. 11 BAMBER MONUMENT This small statue of a traditionally-dressed Bamber peasant girl carrying jugs used in wine-making stands beside the historical Municipal Scales building. Created by sculptor Joseph Wackerle, who would later become Reich Culture Senator and Hitler’s favourite artist, Bamberka was unveiled in 1915 and originally stood over a well providing drinking water for horses. This iconic monument commemorates the Bambers, poor Catholic farmers from Bavaria (today south-east Germany), who came to the Poznań area in the hundreds in the early 18th century at the invitation of the city authorities to help rebuild villages devastated by war and plague. Known for the elaborate folk dresses worn by women, this ethnic group quickly integrated into Polish society, learning the language, identifying themselves as Polish and fighting for Polish national causes. An important contributor to Poznań’s history and culture, to find out more about this unique ethnic group, visit the Poznań Bamber Museum (p.44).QI‑7, Stary Rynek.

BOOK A TOUR The Guardhouse

26 Poznań In Your Pocket

Radomil CC BY-SA 3.0

Photo by kwolana, CC BY-SA 4.0

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Poznań Old Town Tour

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Poznań Old Town Tour While Poznań is relatively spread out, the bulk of its tourist attractions are located within its historical Old Town and west towards the train tracks, where the Imperial Castle resides. This is the area covered by this walking tour; for places of interest further away from the centre, including Ostrów Tumski and Citadel Park, see relevant sections up ahead, on pages 34-39. The tour is approximately 2km long and can take as little as half an hour if you dash through it, though for the more inquisitive tourist a few hours seems more likely. Meandering through the Old Town streets is encouraged, as are breaks for coffee, beer, or your poison of choice in the city’s many cosy cafes and beer gardens. 1 LESSER BASILICA OF ST. STANISLAUS One of Poznań’s most impressive historic monuments, the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus, which it became in October 2010, was created as a Jesuit temple in the 17th century. It boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists, with some fine period ornamentation found in the chapels of the Holy Cross (which features a 16th-century crucifix), and the Virgin Mary (which has a precious copy of the painting of The Mother of God of Incessant Help). The Basilica hosts organ concerts played on an instrument dating from 1876 daily at 12:15.QI‑7, ul. Gołębia 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 69 50, www.fara.archpoznan. pl. Open 06:00 - 19:30, No visiting during mass please. 2 UL. ŻYDOWSKA Originally called ul. Sukiennicza (Cloth Hall Street), this unassuming lane became the de facto centre of Jewish life as early as the 13th century, when the first Jewish settlers in Poznań were given plots of land here. Eventually renamed Judenstrasse and later ul. Żydowska (both meaning simply Jewish Street), it retained this character until the tragedy of the Holocaust. While here, keep an eye out for the former Salomon Beniamin Latz Home for the Elderly and Infirm (ul. Żydowska 15/18). Established in 1908 after the Latz foundation swapped properties with the Jewish Community, the home took the place of three synagogues that used to exist at the address; meanwhile, the foundation’s former hospital at ul. Wroniecka was torn down to make room for the New Synagogue. If you manage to get in (the building is currently residential), traces of the in-house synagogue’s balcony can be seen in the stairwell. Another building of note is the former Jewish Library at ul. Żydowska 32, founded in 1904. Closer to the market square, the unassuming Church of the Most Holy Blood of Jesus (ul. Żydowska 34) is a testament to the vicious anti-Semitism that plagued the city for much of its history. As the sordid story goes, in 1399 several local Jews managed to get ahold of Christian sacramental bread and desecrated it by placing it on a table and stabbing it with a knife, whereupon blood burst from the wafers. Terrified, the Jews attempted to bury the hosts, only to find that the stubborn things would magically unbury themselves and float about in the air. When a young shepherd found

Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus

Photo by Zbigniew Ratajczak. Courtesy of City of Poznań

them floating above the marshes, a chapel was erected at the site - later rebuilt as the Corpus Christi Church and the perps were harshly punished. This fabulous yarn was passed down among the city’s Christian populace for centuries, and when a mysterious blood-stained table was found hidden in the building at ul. Żydowska 34 in the 17th century, it was immediately deemed to be the piece of furniture involved in the infamous act of sacrilege and carried to the Corpus Christi Church in a procession of several thousand. The building itself was transformed into the Church of the Most Holy Blood of Jesus; dare to venture inside and you’ll be greeted with an 18th-century fresco portraying the Jewish trio at their nefarious task assisted by none other than the devil. The only good thing we can say here is that an antique plaque referring to the profanation of the hosts, which used to adorn the church’s facade, was taken down in 2005 by the archbishop; better late than never.QI‑6/7, ul. Żydowska.

ul. Żydowska

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Poznań Old Town Tour

New Synagogue

Roweromaniak CC BY-SA 2.5

ALPHAS Widely considered the buildings that ruined ul. Święty Marcin, the ‘Alphas’ are an architectural nightmare from the deep People’s Republic, more due to their current dishevelled state and unfortunate contrast with neighbouring townhouses than due to the actual design. These five modernist high-rises connected by a sprawling two-level gallery with shops and services are actually very similar to the Hötorget buildings in Stockholm and high-rises along Prager Straße in Dresden. Born a bit later than their counterparts in other countries, they were built between 1965 and 1972, designed by Poznań architect Jerzy Liśniewicz. To make room for this new ‘cosmopolitan’ complex, 19th century houses had to be torn down, but the end result fulfilled its goals – it modernized the street and drew communist-era masses, impoverished and longing for more consumerist options, to its relatively wellstocked shop windows. Currently, the stretch of Św. Marcin along the Alphas is undergoing a major overhaul (as you could guess from the completely dug-up road), and is set to become a more welcoming, pedestrian-oriented area with beer gardens and greenery, if the visualisations are to be believed. The Alphas too are set for renovation, though complicating matters is the fact that each has a different owner. We eagerly await results and hope this part of town can finally become presentable, as - for better or worse – the Alphas remain one of Poznań’s most characteristic structures.QF/G‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 40-72.

30 Poznań In Your Pocket

Photo by Radomil, CC BY-SA 3.0

3 NEW SYNAGOGUE Consecrated on September 5, 1907, the New Synagogue on ul. Wroniecka was once a much more lavish structure. Designed by Berlin architects Cremer & Wolfenstein at a cost of one million marks (to put things in perspective, the cost of the Imperial Castle came to five million), the synagogue boasted a floor plan based on the Greek cross, space for 1,200 worshippers (600 men, 600 women), and originally included a copper-plated dome. Following the outbreak of WWII the building was commandeered by the Nazis and redeveloped into a swimming pool and rehabilitation centre for Wehrmacht soldiers. After the war the synagogue continued to function as a municipal pool - leading some to jokingly brand it the ‘swimagogue’ - until the poor state of the building forced its closure. Returned to the Jewish community in 2002, a gallery was opened instead, sporadically hosting free exhibits. Though plans have been raised to adapt it into a community centre complete with prayer halls, kosher restaurant, and conference facilities, the small problem of raising what was once estimated at $50 million USD (the number may be higher now) proved too large an obstacle. More recently, there has been talk of converting the building into an upscale hotel with a small commemorative museum, but it looks like those plans have been put on hold as well, and the synagogue currently stands empty, facing an uncertain future.QI‑6, ul. Wroniecka 11A.

4 CITY FORTIFICATIONS As a typical central European city, Poznań of course was once snugly encircled by city walls and a moat, with four gates guarding the passage into the narrow streets. Along the walls rose a number of defensive towers named after the guilds who were normally responsible for manning them: there was the Wheelwright Tower, Butcher Tower, and Cloth Tower, to name a few. Originally built sometime in the 13th century, the fortifications were unfortunately largely destroyed during the Swedish Deluge in the 17th century and later invasions of the city, and what was left was almost completely taken apart by the Prussians in the 19th and early 20th centuries to make room for new building projects. One of those was a rather splendid

Poznań Old Town Tour neo-Gothic fire station, which - lovingly refurbished - survives to this day at ul. Masztalarska 3. Passing through its courtyard is a stretch of reconstructed city wall and two rebuilt towers: Baszta Strażacka (Firefighter Tower, not the original name), and Baszta Katarzynek, once part of a convent inhabited by Dominican nuns (then known as ‘Katarzynki’). Part The Old Fire Station on ul. of a third tower, Baszta Masztalarska 3 (H-7). Armatnia (Artillery Tower) stands on the Roman Wilhelmi Square. Completed in 2008, the resurrected city fortifications are a lovely place for a (short) stroll north of the main square.QH‑6, Between Skwer Rabbina Akiwy Egera & Skwer Romana Wilhelmiego. 5 ROYAL CASTLE Every European city worth its salt has a castle, and Poznań actually has two. Indeed, the 20th century ‘Zamek’ west of the Old Town is neither Poznań’s oldest, nor most important castle. Wander just one block west of the market square and you’ll find yourself at the foot of Góra Przemysła, crowned by Poznań’s former Royal Castle.

Once the pride of Poznań, the original construction was begun approximately 1249 by Przemysł I - Duke of the Piast dynasty who had chosen Poz as his capital. Work on the royal residence was continued by his son, and by the time Kazimierz the Great (a prince at the time) moved in in the early 14th century, Poznań’s Royal Castle was the largest non-ecclesiastical building in Poland. Its fortunes took a serious turn for the worse in early 18th century when it was sacked several times in quick succession by the Swedes, the Russians, and then disgruntled nobles. Governor General Kazimierz Raczyński restored the medieval buildings and created a state archive here in 1783 - a function it would serve until WWII. During the Siege of 1945, the castle had the misfortune of being in the line of fire with the Nazi stronghold on Citadel Hill and that was that. In 1959 the decision was taken to rebuild Raczyński’s contribution to the hill, which today houses the Applied Arts Museum. Until recently, the Castle’s rich historical value as the seat of early Polish royalty, numerous royal births, weddings, and treaty signings seems to have been undervalued, but that’s in the past now. Between 2010 and 2016 the castle underwent a total restoration, and is now fully open, including the castle tower, observation decks, and Prince Przemysł I Hall.QH‑7, Góra Przemysła. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00 , Closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł. Tue free.

Royal Castle

STARY BROWAR Housed in an old brewery dating from 1844, the awardwinning Stary Browar complex has been dubbed an art, leisure, and shopping extravaganza, and its success a sign of Poznań’s economic renaissance. Its opening in 2003 also marked a successful move away from out-of-town developments, and a new trend for inner-city regeneration projects. Originally home to the Huggerów Brewery, the building produced beer until 1980, then mineral water until 1998, when it was bought by the Fortis Group and a $66 million USD investment transformed it into the shopping and entertainment Mecca it is today. Home to tonnes of art and outstanding design details, Stary Browar also features a 5-Star hotel, dozens of restaurants, cafes, and bars, and over 200 retail spaces, in which you’ll find both name brands and popular chain stores.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 601 34 84 83, www. starybrowar5050.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Fri 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Photo by Jakub Wittchen

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Poznań Old Town Tour 6 FRANCISCAN CHURCH Built in the years 1674-1728, there’s seemingly not much to this church just off the market square. Hidden behind the bland exterior, however, is an absolute explosion of Baroque over-indulgence, with colourful carved wood, stucco, and paintings by local monk Adam Swach. His brother, Antoni, designed the high altar and ornamented stalls, which literally jump out at you in their bright flamboyance. It’s a spectacle worth seeing, but visitors also flock to this church to see the Marian shrine, which has housed a famous picture of the Miracle-Working Virgin Mary, also known as the Lady of Poznań, for 300 years.QH‑7, ul. Franciszkańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 852 36 37, www.poznan.franciszkanie.pl. Open 06:30 - 19:00, No visiting during mass please.

Franciscan Church

Photo by Mikołaj Borowicz. Courtesy of City of Poznań

NEON ART

POZNAŃ NIGHTINGALES NEON This playful neon art, portraying a flock of colourful nightingales sitting on a five-line music staff and lighting up in rapid succession, has been installed on the facade of the Philharmonic to honour its “Poznań Nightingales” choir. Founded in the early days of WWII by a nineteen-year-old named Stefan Stuligrosz, the men’s and boys’ choir initially staged underground performances in Poznań churches as an act of resistance against Nazi occupation. After the war they were taken under the wing of the Philharmonic, with Stuligrosz acting as the choir’s artistic director as well as the president of the Poznań Music Academy. The neon was created in 1974 by Antoni Rzyski and symbolises Stuligrosz (the yellow nightingale at the bottom of the staff, whose light doesn’t flicker off ) and his singers. It’s worth to note that the Poznań Nightingales are of no relation to the Polish Nightingales, another Poznań choir which has been implicated in a horrific child abuse scandal - just in case you were wondering.QF-7, ul. Św. Marcin 81. 32 Poznań In Your Pocket

7 PLAC WOLNOŚCI Though it is difficult to imagine now, Poznań’s large and typically empty ‘Freedom Square’ was once the heart of the city - a favourite spot of the upper classes for strolls and coffee. Originally named Wilhelmsplatz (William’s Square) in honour of King Frederick William III of Prussia, it was demarcated by the city’s new Prussian authorities at the very end of the 18th century, soon after Poland was wiped off the map by the three partitioning forces of Prussia, Russia, and Austria-Hungary. The main reason for a square this large? Big-headed higher-ups needed a representative space capable of containing an entire infantry regiment during military parades. In the years leading up to the Great War the square underwent numerous changes, as Polish and Prussian institutions vied for space and influence, encircling the space with buildings designed according to the latest architectural fashion; those included St. Adalbert’s Publishing House (now St. Adalbert’s Bookstore aka Księgarnia Św. Wojciecha, no. 1), the Haase Department Store (no. 4), the Brandt Department Store (no. 8), the Raczyński Library (no. 19), the Provincial Museum in Posen (now a National Museum building, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9), and Bazar Hotel (Al. Marcinkowskiego 10). A monument to the 1866 PrussoAustrian Battle of Nachod popped up, as did a figure of King Wilhelm III; both were torn down triumphantly when Poznań returned to Polish hands following WWI, and the square was given its current name. It wouldn’t last; after a blissful 20 interwar years, during which the square functioned as the cultural centre of Poznań, the square was dug open with trenches in preparation for WWII, and soon German forces once again marched in, renaming the square - you guessed it - Wilhelmsplatz. After the war (and another name change), Plac Wolności was rebuilt according to the concept of Milewski and Skupniewicz, with trees cut down and a Hygieia statue (which had been placed on the square in 1908 to commemorate the expansion of the city waterworks) moved in front of the Raczyński Library. In 2005 a large underground parking lot was added, and in 2012 Freedom Square’s most recognizable landmark was unveiled - the Freedom Fountain (Fontanna Wolności), a geometric structure with two 10-metre wings (or sails) made out of glass. Nowadays the square is the go-to for protests and demonstrations.QG/H‑7, Plac Wolności.

Poznań Old Town Tour

Plac Wolności 8 OKRĄGLAK Looking for remnants of the People’s Republic? Cast your camera to the western end of ul. Grudnia (A-2), where the imposing Okrąglak (Rotunda) presides over a four-point intersection. This cylindrical marvel is one of Poznań’s defining icons and has been a listed building since 2003. Constructed between 1948 and 1954 this beast is a leading example of Polish modernism, built to a blueprint by Marek Leykam. Originally slated to be ten storeys, this eight floor masterpiece once housed Poznań’s top department store, and it was here that during the lean years of communism locals would queue to buy ‘luxury’ products unavailable elsewhere. After years of abject neglect, in 2011-2012 the Okrąglak was restored and converted into 51,000 square metres of A-class office space.QF‑7, ul. Mielżyńskiego 14.

9 IMPERIAL CASTLE More a palace than a ‘castle,’ work began on Poznań’s fearsome ‘Zamek’in 1905 to serve as the provincial residence of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Designed in the neo-Romanesque style by Franz Schwechten, the west wing held Wilhelm’s living quarters, the east wing his immaculate throne room, with the northern part of the complex consisting of service rooms and beautiful gardens based on the Alhambra’s Courtyard of the Lions. The Kaiser got the keys in 1910 but didn’t stay long before WWI and the following Wielkopolska Uprising resulted in a Polish Poznań once again. Between the wars the Zamek became the seat of Poznań University, before the Third Reich swooped in and Albert Speer, Hitler’s pet architect, transformed the tower chapel into the Fuehrer’s office, and the second floor into the residence of Arthur Greiser (Nazi governor of the district). The castle was badly damaged during the Soviet liberation and there was even a post-war campaign to have the structure bulldozed. In the end the drastic measures stopped with reducing the principal tower to a third of its original height.

Imperial Castle

Okrąglak

Photo by Przemysław Turlej

Photo by Radomil, CC BY-SA 3.0

Used by the University in the two years following the war, and then as the seat of local government, the Zamek has operated as a cultural centre since 1962, hosting hundreds of theatre performances, concerts, film screenings and other events in its palatial halls each year. The basement houses the 1956 Uprising Museum, and throughout the large complex visitors will find several restaurants, cafes and bars, including the popular Dubliner Irish Pub. Guided tours of the castle in English are available for 150zł but must be booked in advance by calling +48 61 646 52 88.QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.ckzamek.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Free admission without tour. poznan.inyourpocket.com

Ostrów Tumski

Photo by Łukasz Gdak

Just north-east of the centre of Poznań sits Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island) - the island where Poznań was founded, and “where Poland began” in the words of Pope John Paul II. According to the prolific legend, three Slav brothers known as Lech, Czech and Rus met on this tiny island after not seeing each other for many years. To commemorate their reunion the brothers named the place ‘Poznać,’ after the Polish word for ‘to meet.’ From there the island thrived, with a castle erected in the 9th century and Ostrów Tumski becoming a major centre of the Piast state. More than a millennium ago one of Poland’s first rulers, Mieszko I, ushered the country into Catholicism here and soon after the first bishopric was established in 968. The first iteration of the Cathedral of Poznań was built in the second half of the 10th century, and in the island’s thousandyear history it has been home to kings and bishops alike. Remains of 19th century Prussian fortifications are still visible on the Cybina riverside, easily viewable from the Jordan Bridge (I-3). In more recent times the Communists showed their disdain for the Catholic Church’s heavy presence in Poznań by building a road across the island that bisected the Archbishop’s garden (what jerks!). A trip to Ostrów Tumski not only makes a peaceful respite from the tackiness and tourist noise of Stary Rynek, but also serves as an important crash course on early Polish history and Poznań’s role in the country’s birth as a nation. Taking that task on as its very mission, in fact, is the new Porta Posnania Centre, which straddles the river (with its own bridge) between Ostrów Tumski and Śródka, and should be considered the mandatory starting point for all visitors before carrying on to the magnificent Poznań Cathedral itself. 34 Poznań In Your Pocket

1 PORTA POSNANIA INTERACTIVE HERITAGE CENTRE OF CATHEDRAL ISLAND Opened in early 2014, this modern culture complex symbolically connects Poznań’s two oldest districts - Ostrów Tumski and Śródka - via a covered ‘skywalk’ bridge between the main exhibition building and the Cathedral Lock - a restored section of the former Prussian river fortifications. The main building is actually on the Śródka side of the Cybina River, and presents the fascinating history of the area from medieval times to the modern day, with a dollop of Polish-Catholic propaganda, via a rather gimmicky combo of audioguide and interactive multimedia displays. The touring route concludes by leading visitors across the ‘skywalk’ straight into Ostrów Tumski itself, making this the ideal starting point for exploring the district. Audioguides are available in English, German, French, Spanish, Czech, Russian, and Ukrainian, with three specially designed audiotour routes - one for individuals, one for groups, and one for families that make the experience worthwhile for everyone, especially kids. Topping it off is a souvenir shop and a lovely rooftop terrace (open during the warm season only) that offers unique views of Poznań Cathedral and the surrounding area. QL‑6, ul. Gdańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 647 76 34, www.bramapoznania.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission for the permanent exhibition 18/12zł. Family ticket (up to 5 people) 36zł. Group tickets (up to 10 people) 11zł per person. Audio guide 5/3zł. U

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2 POZNAŃ CATHEDRAL The most stunning site on Ostrów Tumski is certainly Peter & Paul Cathedral, more commonly called ‘Poznań Cathedral,’ which ‘Cathedral Island’ takes its name from. Originally erected way, way back in 968, this was the first cathedral in Poland, and has had a storied history. As it was razed, rebuilt, and remodelled numerous times over the centuries, each resulted in the addition of a new architectural style: a 1622 fire led to a Baroque finish, while a 1722 fire ushered in a change to neo-Classicism. During the 1945 battle to liberate Poznań, 65 percent of the Cathedral again burned down, exposing the building’s buried Gothic elements and leading to its restoration in the style visitors see today. The interior is a trove of sacral and historical treasures, surrounded by twelve different chapels, including the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, which has several outstanding examples of Renaissance art (the tombstones of the Górka family and Bishop Benedykt Izbieński, to be specific) and the Baroque altar houses a miraculous crucifix brought to the Cathedral from the former Wrocławska town gate. The Golden Chapel was designed as the mausoleum of the first Polish monarchs and houses the sarcophagi of Kings Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry; the two kings are also depicted in a bronze monument together, above which is a painting by January Suchodolski showing Mieszko I, the instigator of Catholicism in Poland, destroying pagan idols. The chapel is indeed thoroughly golden, but to fully admire the glitz you must drop a coin into an absurd contraption, whereupon the illumination will come on. The eye-catching high altar at the centre of the Cathedral is a 14th/15th polyptych depicting Our Lady surrounded by 14 female saints, while the outer wings feature eight paintings depicting the Passion of the Christ. The Cathedral’s lavish Baroque pulpit is equally stunning and dates to 1720. Also worth noting are the Cathedral’s five Gothic and early Renaissance bronze tomb slabs, which originated at the famed Nuremburg workshop of Herman and Peter Vischer.

Hyćka

Rondo Śródka

St. John of Jerusalem Church Outside the Wall

The slabs were originally on the Cathedral floor to cover the entrances to tombs, but were later mounted on pillars and chapel walls. Stolen during the war, the slabs were returned to Poznań in 1993 and are back on display. Visit the vestry to request entry to the crypt, where you’ll see evidence of the pre-Romanesque and Romanesque versions of the Cathedral, and a 10th century baptismal font most likely used to baptise the first Polish sovereign and his subjects. Excavations here also unearthed two tombs, most likely of the first Polish monarchs Mieszko I and King Bolesław Chrobry. The second crypt houses an exhibition of artefacts found during the excavation, and it also leads to the crypt of the Poznań archbishops. Be aware that while the lights in the crypt work for free (no coins!), they are motion-activated, so if you stand and look too long, you’ll suddenly end up in the dark.QK‑6, Ostrów Tumski 17, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra. archpoznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00 until March 15, 09:00 - 17:00 after. Crypt closed on Sundays. No visiting during mass please. Crypt entrance 3.50/2.50zł, rest of the Cathedral free. II

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poznan.inyourpocket.com

Ostrów Tumski ŚRÓDKA

Mural on Rynek Śródecki (L-6)

Once you’ve explored Ostrów Tumski, the next natural step is to cross the red Jordan Bridge over into the ancient - and irresistibly cute - Śródka neighbourhood. Once its own town, Śródka was named in honour of its weekly Wednesday market (‘Środa’ means ‘Wednesday’ in Polish), and records suggest the small enclave had urban features and its own autonomous government as early as the mid-1200s. The presence of Dominican monks, along with the regular market, gave Śródka prominence in the area, which unfortunately didn’t last long; the monks picked up and moved across the Warta River, and Przemysł II (who subsequently became King of Poland) turned the city over to the control of the Bishopric in the 13th century. Suddenly reduced to the role of supplier to Ostrów Tumski, Śródka would continue to slide in prominence as the nearby city of Poznań grew. Śródka had a revitalization of sorts in the 17th century when orders of Phillippines and Reformists swept in and established churches and residences in the city, yet Śródka was nonetheless absorbed into Poznań in 1800. During Prussian times the city was part of a fortified zone that didn’t improve its fate, nor did the regular occurrence of floods and fires. During World War II much of the city’s centre at Rynek Śródecki (the location around St. Margaret’s Church) was destroyed, and the arrival of the People’s Republic of Poland, which slapped a garish highway across the Archbishop’s gardens and Ostrów Tumski, didn’t improve the area either. But much like Ostrówek, Śródka is slowly experiencing a noticeable revitalization.

3 CHURCH OF THE VIRGIN MARY This small Gothic church was built in 1432-1448 and is modelled on the West Pomeranian building style, with a three-nave hall, star vaulting, and polychromatic decorations. The altar was designed by Wacław Taranczewski in 1954. The adjoining building with the crowstep gables is a Late Gothic Psalteria, dating to 1518, which contained flats for the clergy. Unfortunately the church is closed for renovation until late 2019, so it is presently impossible to get inside.QK‑6, ul. Panny Marii, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra.archpoznan.pl. 4 ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM Adjacent to the Cathedral is the large Lubrański Academy building, once home to Bishop Jan Lubrański’s institute of higher learning and today the Museum of the Archdiocese. The first floor is devoted to temporary exhibits, while the next two floors are filled with all manner of religious art and relics, including the Sword of Saint Peter, numerous statues and paintings of the Madonna, Jesus, and various saints, plus well-preserved robes and heavily-bejewelled rings from Poznan’s long line-up of bishops. QK‑6, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum. poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10/7zł, family ticket 17zł. NY 5 GENIUS LOCI ARCHEOLOGICAL PARK Genius Loci gives a different view on Poznań’s medieval genesis by unearthing, reconstructing, and offering insight into the lives of those early individuals who inhabited the island one thousand years ago. Explore multimedia displays and documentary films, and brave the glass walkways while peering down at the city’s original walls and embankments. The audioguide (included in the price) comes in both Polish and English and helps explain how Poznań took shape centuries ago.QK‑6, ul. Ks. I. Posadzego 3, tel. (+48) 61 852 21 67, www.muzarp. poznan.pl/rezerwat. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Fri 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł, family ticket 10zł. Sun free. Y

There are also some surprisingly good eats to be found here - while our all-time favourite quirky eatery Raj is moving out this issue, there is still Na Winklu (p.60), which offers delicious pierogi with some exciting nontraditional fillings, and Hyćka (p.60), which serves traditional Wielkopolska home cooking. Genius Loci Archeological Park

36 Poznań In Your Pocket

MOs810/pl.wikipedia.org/CC BY-SA 3.0

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Citadel Park Just north of Poznań’s Old Town sits Winiary Hill and 89 hectares of picture-perfect green space known as Citadel Park. Much like any coveted location in Poland, this scenic overlook has a long history that involves multiple name changes, military battles, and even some old-fashioned mystery. For visitors, the park offers not only beautiful promenades and leafy city escapes, but also a plethora of monuments, museums, and historical tales. The hill itself didn’t become notable until Prussia took over Poland in 1793 and Poznań suddenly found itself in a strategic location on the Prussian-Russian border, less than 300km from Berlin. A fort seemed in order, and design responsibilities were given over to the exasperatinglynamed General Carl Wilhelm Georg von Grolman. Work began in 1828 after moving two villages - Winiary and Bonin - to make room, and continued over the next decade. The result was an impressive polygonal brick fortress with 1.3- to 1.8-metre-thick walls, observation towers, artillery decks, and even a moat, making it the central element of the city’s defences. Despite the efforts that went into the construction, and seemingly opportune wars with Denmark, Austria, and France, the fort saw little military action, instead serving as a military prison throughout the 19th century. By the time WWI arrived, the fort was too outdated for modern warfare and played no role until it was captured by insurgents during the Wielkopolska Uprising in 1918, after which it was home to Polish army units throughout the inter-war years. When Nazi Germany occupied Poland in 1939 the fort returned to its role as a POW camp (British, Russian, and Polish soldiers ended up here) until it was thrust into the history books as the final Nazi stronghold during the Battle of Poznań in 1945, finally captured by the Soviets on February 23, 1945. After the war, the ravaged and obsolete fort was largely dismantled, contributing its bricks to help rebuild local housing estates and decimated cities like Warsaw. Yet plenty of the fort still remains, and those intrepid enough to wander off the park’s paths will be rewarded with a close-up look at history (this is where a guide comes in

British Military Cemetery

handy, as ours pointed out locations of strategic Russian movements, how the fort was breached, and even the charred bricks where a group of the last German soldiers evidently met their end). Under communism, the fort and surrounding area were given a new strategic purpose when Winiary Hill was turned into the chummy ‘Monument Park of Polish-Russian Friendship and Brotherhood’ in 1962, and a Russian cemetery and Red Army memorial soon found a home here. Re-dubbed ‘Citadel Hall’ in 1992 after the regime finally fell, today visitors will find this former military stronghold is home to art installations, monuments, several museums, cemeteries, and large outdoor events. There are few better ways to spend an afternoon in Poznań than exploring all there is to see and do in the city’s largest park.

WHAT TO SEE 1 POZNAŃ ARMY MUSEUM Recently re-opened after a long renovation, the museum provides visitors with the chance to learn more about the city’s military history, with a particular focus on the Second World War and the inter-war period. A large number of items from these times are on display, including various newspaper cuttings, weapons, photos and uniforms. But other eras are covered too, with some artefacts - such as old bullets and army storage devices - dating back as far as 1897. Note that the ticket also includes entrance to the Museum of Armaments, also located in Citadel Park. QI‑4, Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. (+48) 663 86 64 14, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Admission 8/5zł, Tue free; ticket also valid for the nearby Museum of Armaments. UY

GETTING THERE

WWII destruction

38 Poznań In Your Pocket

If the weather is nice there’s no reason not to walk to Citadel Park from the Rynek. The stroll is just under 2km and should take 25-30 minutes. Those who prefer an (arguably) quicker route can grab bus number 174, 176, 190, or 603 from ‘Wielka’ to ‘Garbary’.

Citadel Park 2 THE BELL OF PEACE AND FRIENDSHIP AMONG NATIONS Erected in 1986, the ‘Bell of Peace and Friendship Among Nations’ was installed too late to spare Poznań from a largely turbulent 20th century, but it plays a role in the remembering when it’s rung on holidays and anniversaries such as Liberation Day (February 23rd) when the Germans capitulated at the fort during World War II. Weighing 850 kg, the dove-embossed bell hangs 10m above the ground and can allegedly be heard from 10km away.QI‑4, Park Cytadela. 3 BRITISH MILITARY CEMETERY Citadel Park hosts several cemeteries, but the one typically of most interest to tourists is British Military Cemetery (also known as the Commonwealth Cemetery). Why? It’s here that you’ll find the graves of several of the men involved in what is now known as “the Great Escape” from Stalag Luft 3 in Żagań (it wasn’t just a movie, folks!). In addition, the cemetery houses graves of servicemen from WWI (all of whom died in various parts of Poland as POWs), and those who died in bombing operations over what is now the Polish city of Szczecin during WWII.QH‑4, Park Cytadela. Open from dawn till dusk. 4 MONUMENT TO THE HEROES OF THE POZNAŃ CITADEL One of the most noticeable features of Citadel Park is the Soviet Obelisk located prominently at the top of the grand staircase as you enter the park from Aleja Armii Poznań (H-4). The giant Socialist Realism column is dedicated to the Russian soldiers killed during the 1945 siege of the fort, and it’s most interesting aspect is perhaps the one you can no longer see: the large red star affixed to the top which disappeared in the dead of night after the fall of communism in Poland in 1989. Official complaints by the Russian Embassy to track down the star and its thieves were, unsurprisingly, largely ignored by police, and for years the public was left to speculate what became of the red emblem (a rumour that the star was filled with jewels proved to be one popular urban myth). In recent years, however, a local journalist looking into the mystery was able to swiftly solve it: local firemen had removed the star using their rescue ladders. They fessed up and turned it over without consequence to the city, which has plans to restore it and eventually put it on display at the Historical Museum of Poznań.QH‑4, Park Cytadela. 5 MUSEUM OF ARMAMENTS The remains of this Prussian fort (which was used as a war laboratory to produce gunpowder and shells during World War II) prove to be the perfect location for the Museum of Armaments, which features displays of various weaponry and ammunition as well as photos of battles from Poznań’s history. Most interesting for military buffs however is the outdoor exhibition laden with a whole host of war machinery including a T-34 tank, a ‘Katyusha’ rocket

Museum of Armaments

launcher, bombers and a MIG-15.QH‑3, Park Cytadela, tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Admission 10/5zł, Tue free; ticket also valid for the nearby Poznań Army Museum. Y 6 HEADLESS FIGURES Unveiled as part of Poznań’s 750th birthday celebrations in 2002, this massive troop of towering, headless cast iron figures marching aimlessly across Citadel Park is officially titled “Unrecognised” (“Nierozpoznani”). 112 in all, each measuring 2 metres tall, the odd installation is the work of local arts grad and international art star Magdalena Abakanowicz, who is keeping mum on its meaning. Those with ties to Chicago might recognise a similar installation in Grant Park, while a few more of Abakanowicz’s headless fright patrol can be found wandering lost in the courtyard of the Imperial Castle.QI‑3, Park Cytadela. 7 ROSE GARDEN Certainly one of the nicest and most popular parts of Citadel Park, particularly in fine weather, is the ‘rosarium.’ Consisting of six landscaped terraces planted with different roses, trees, and shrubs descending to a small lake at its centre, this is perhaps Poz’s most romantic corner, as evidenced by all the couples getting very cosy on the numerous benches scattered about. Go for a stroll, stop to smell the roses, and maybe sneak in a snog on the side.QH‑2, Park Cytadela.

Archiwum Urzędu Miasta Poznania, photo D. Krakowiak

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Lake Malta

Relaxing on Lake Malta’s shore | © Marcin Welc

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Lake Malta Of Poznań’s many lakes it’s Malta - to the east - that is the best known, and its surroundings are well worth further investigation. Formed in 1952 as a result of damming the Cybina, this 2.2km long lake is the largest man-made lake in the city, with an average depth of 3.1 metres. Surrounded by parks and woodland, it is today one of the principal recreation areas in the region - in both summer and winter - with an icerink, ski slope (the first in former communist Europe), a worldclass regatta course, zoo, water park, and dozens of other attractions, including several historical sights. Just east of the centre, but miles from the madness of the market square, if you’re in town to decompress, head to Malta. ADRENALINE ALPINE COASTER A 500 metre long roller coaster filled with twisting loops (even a 360 degree twist) that hauls screaming visitors around the track at 40km per hour.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00 21:00, Opening hours depend on the weather. 1 ride in a 1-person cart 10zł; 3 rides 20zł. 1 ride in a 2-person cart 15zł; 3 rides 30zł. Y BULA PARK 6 open-air bowling lanes and 5 boule lanes situated next to Lake Malta.Qul. Krańcowa (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 877 29 78, www.malta.poznan.pl. Open from May 12:00 - 20:00. Bowling costs 35-40zł per hour or 5-6zł per game per person. Boule costs 10-15zł per hour. Y

MALTANKA MINI RAILWAY Pleasing the paying public since 1956, this is one of the last 600mm narrow gauge railways in PL, faithfully pulled by ‘Borsuk’ (Badger) - a steam engine with two whistles. Operating from May to the end of September, it’s a unique attraction for rail buffs, and also a great way to view Malta. Better still, this is one of the most practical ways to get to the ‘New Zoo’ – catch it from the Maltanka stop near Rondo Śródka (M-6) and ride it to the end, namely the Zwierzyniec stop at the zoo. Trains run on the hour Mon-Fri and on the half hour Sat-Sun, with the first ride at 10:00 and the last one at 19:00; tickets 6/4zł.QM‑7, tel. (+48) 61 839 66 90, www. mpk.poznan.pl/turystyka/maltanka. Open 10:00 - 19:00. MALTA SKI MINI GOLF 18 hole mini golf course overlooking Lake Malta; hours and availability weather-dependent.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00 21:00. Admission 18/15zł. Y

GETTING TO LAKE MALTA Lake Malta is situated just to the east of the city centre, and Rondo Śródka - at the lake’s northwest corner, is the best place to access it. Below are the public transport options from three main points in the centre. Alternatively, a taxi from the centre to the north shore will cost about 30-35zł. From the main train station (D-9): Take tram number 6 from the ‘Poznań Główny’ stop (walk just past the Avenida shopping centre going east) directly to ‘Baraniaka’. The journey takes about 14 minutes. From the Old Town Square: Take tram number 3, 16, or 17 from either ‘Pl. Wielkopolski’ (H-6) or ‘Małe Garbary’ (I-6) to ‘Rondo Śródka’.QM‑6. MALTA SKI OUTDOOR PLAYGROUND Wooden playground with slides, mazes, and obstacles. Opening hours are weather-dependent.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00 21:00. Admission free. MALTA SKI PONTOON HIRE Our first thought was boat rental, but nope, that would be too conventional for Lake Malta. This what happens to Poz’s 70m artificial ski slope in summer (May to the end of September to be exact) - people go speeding down it in plastic inner tubes.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Opening hours depend on the weather. 1 ride 5zł; 3 rides 10zł. Y TOBOGGON RUN PEPSI Hit speeds of 50km on this summer toboggan run, a daredevil experience that twists and turns the foolish and the brave over the course of a 530 metre track. Open in the warm season, from approximately May depending on weather.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www. maltaski.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. 8zł for one dash, 15zł for three. Kids under 8 free. Y

Adrenaline Alpine Coaster

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Lake Malta LAKE RUSAŁKA

If lakes Malta and Rusałka were siblings (and in a sense they are), Rusałka would be the athletic and attention-seeking Malta’s mysteriously beautiful and slightly introverted sister. Indeed, the lake’s very name - derived from Slavic mythology and denoting a water nymph or mermaid - belies the area’s natural wonder and allure. While Lake Malta is favoured by families and sportsmen, the slightly smaller Rusałka (36.7 hectares) has long been favoured by naturalists and fishermen, hikers, cyclists, and photographers, and is characterised by 3,300 metres of largely wooded coastline woven with intimate walking paths, ancient trees (a group of which near the north shore are a designated natural monument), misty streams, and several forgotten war memorials. Like Lake Malta, Rusałka is a man-made reservoir initiated during WWII, but in contrast to her younger brother, Rusałka’s shores are almost entirely devoid of commercial development and provide a unique opportunity to immerse oneself in a natural setting without leaving the city centre. That’s not to say that this old girl doesn’t know how to have fun, however. In summertime a designated section of the northern coast becomes Poznań’s most popular swimming and sun-bathing destination, overseen by lifeguards and offering water sports equipment rental and a children’s playground. The beachside Rusałka restaurant, while quite low-rated (visit at your own risk), serves as a back-up plan for those who forgot to bring their own snacks. If you prefer to wander a bit, nearby points of interest include Park Sołacki - which leads directly into Lake Rusałka’s eastern shore - and the Botanical Garden (p.73) on the southern shore. For those fascinated by Poland’s painful past, Rusałka also conceals several unkempt WWII-era memorials and mausoleums, and the Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum (p.45) is within walking distance of the south shore. If your interests include nature, history, or photography, escape the Old Town and explore Rusałka’s natural charms and dark secrets. You’d be wise to pick up a map of the area from tourist information (p.21), wear comfortable shoes, and off you go. To get here by public transportation we recommend using jakdojade.pl to plan your journey.

MALTESE BATHS Located on the north shore of Lake Malta this yearround facility offers sport pools (one Olympic-sized and another with a 10-metre diving tower), a water park (a series of 16 pools including a wave pool and children’s play pool), and 13 water slides along with two wild rivers. There is also the World of Saunas (14 saunas, two of which are outdoors, and a vapour bath) and, most recently, a full spa complex (Spa 1306) with underground thermal springs, offering therapeutic and beauty baths including Turkish Hammam and Rasul mud bath, massage, hydromassage, rehabilitation, Pollogen slimming and rejuvenating treatments, and more from the fully trained staff.QP‑8, ul. Termalna 1, tel. (+48) 61 222 61 61, www.termymaltanskie.com. pl. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 23:00; SPA open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Prices start at 9zł for sports pools and water spark, 15zł for spa. Y THE NEW ZOO The 116 hectare New Zoo was opened to the public in 1974 after seven years of construction. Housing over 2,000 beasts representing 140 species, it’s comprised of 60 percent pine and mixed forests with a man-made stream and string of ponds running through the grounds. In this way many of the creatures live in recreations of their natural habitats rather than concrete pens. Highlights include the modern elephant house, and circling the whole shebang is a seasonal mini-railway, meaning visitors can jump off at whatever creature cage takes their fancy. As the zoo is located beyond the far east end of Lake Malta (not actually on the lake), during the summer you can get there by taking the Maltanka mini-railway to the last stop ‘Zwierzyniec’. If coming from the centre of Poz, take tram 8 from ‘Plac Wielkopolski’ to ‘Krańcowa’. Alternatively, a taxi from the centre costs about 30zł.Qul. Krańcowa 81 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 877 35 17, www.zoo.poznan.pl. Open 9:00 - 16:00. 1 Mar - 31 Mar: Open 9:00 - 17:00, Last entrance 1 hour before closing. March-October admission Mon-Fri 18/10zł, Sat-Sun 24/12zł, November-February admission 10zł. UY

www.termymaltanskie.com.pl

42 Poznań In Your Pocket

Museums

Poznań Croissant Museum, p. 44

1956 UPRISING MUSEUM The Zamek is an impressive building alright, but pride of place goes to the 1956 Uprising exhibition, honouring the first armed resistance the communist regime faced. Hidden down a side entrance, this basement masterpiece features stretchers used to carry the wounded, a tank, a display of arms and rifles, a room of Socialist propaganda posters, a typical Poznań family’s flat from the 1950s and a direct copy of a detention cell. Most poignant of all, though, is the space set aside for 13 year old Roman Strzałkowski, the youngest to die in the troubles. Exhibits include his harmonica and domino set, and newspaper clippings showing Strzałkowski picking up prizes for his piano skills. QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 852 94 64, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Sun 10:00 16:00. Admission 8/5zł. Tue free. UY APPLIED ARTS MUSEUM Housed in the Royal Castle of Poznań, this museum has recently undergone huge changes which shifted the focus from medieval craftwork and princely decorations exclusively to applied arts, rolling out a 2000-piece exhibition of furniture, fabrics, ceramics, glassware, weaponry, and clothing from around the world. For those more interested in the actual history of the place, we recommend skipping the arts and checking out the (sparse) ground-floor exhibition dedicated to the castle and its founder, Duke Przemysł II, as well as climbing the seasonally-open tower.QH‑7, Góra Przemysła 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 35, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 -

15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. From June 16 open Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. Admission 12/1-8zł. Tue free. NY ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM See Ostrów Tumski, p.34.QK‑6, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10/7zł, family ticket 17zł. NY CHOCOLATE MUSEUM Joining the Croissant Museum is another sweet temptation under an educational guise: the Chocolate Museum where kids of all ages (including those quite grown and greying) can learn about cacao tree plantations, the history of chocolate, and chocolate-making techniques while sampling decadent creations. The guided tours last an estimated 40 minutes and can be followed with a 30-minute workshop during which participants create their own chocolate bar - to take home, of course (if you can refrain from wolfing it down on the spot). QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 12, tel. (+48) 502 45 41 77, www. muzeumczekolady.edu.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 18/15zł, plus 20zł for the optional workshop. HISTORICAL MUSEUM OF POZNAŃ See the Stary Rynek walking tour, p.23.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 61 856 81 93, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 15:00. Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 7/1-5zł, Sat free. NY poznan.inyourpocket.com

Museums MODELS OF POZNAŃ A huge model that shows Poznań in its form as presented in Brau-Hogenburg’s illustration sketched in 1618. Constructed over a period of six years the model takes up a space of 50m2 and is built on a scale of 1:150. The decorative details are impressive, and you can expect lots of kids as well as anoraked model enthusiasts pulling up the school seats around it as they wait for the show to begin. As the lights dim a recorded commentary begins and visitors are taken through the area-by-area story of Poznań’s development. Foreigners are given headsets broadcasting heavily accented commentary in the language of their choice, though this is at times drowned out by hilarious background noise that includes medieval soldiers screaming in agony. The museum’s other models include Poznań in the 10th century and a touchable model of the main square aimed at blind visitors.QH‑7, ul. Ludgardy 1, tel. (+48) 61 855 14 35, www.makieta. poznan.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 18zł. NY MUSEUM OF ARMAMENTS See Citadel Park, p.37.QH‑3, Park Cytadela, tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 -16:00, Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł. Tue free. Guided English-language tour 60zł. Tickets bought either here or at the Poznań Army Museum are valid for both museums. Y NATIONAL MUSEUM A large and excellent museum with a rich collection of modern Polish art (including interesting Impressionist works) in the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian, Dutch, and Flemish paintings in the connected old building. The museum also holds the largest collection of Spanish art (including Zurbaran and Ribera) in Poland and plenty of Polish art from the 16th century onwards. In addition, a Monet painting stolen in 2000 was recently recovered and is back on display. Selected paintings have extensive English explanations about the artist and topic. QH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. (+48) 61 856 80 00, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. From June 16 open Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 18:00, Closed Mon. Admission 12/1-8zł, Sat free. NY

Models of Poznań

44 Poznań In Your Pocket

Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum

Photo by Craig Broadbent

POZNAŃ ARMY MUSEUM See Citadel Park, p.37.QI‑4, Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. (+48) 663 86 64 14, www.wmn. poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission 8/5zł. Tue free. Tickets bought either here or at the Poznań Army Museum are valid for both museums. Y POZNAŃ BAMBER MUSEUM Learn about the Bamber people, ethnic Germans from Bamberg who settled in Poznań in the 18th century, inside a mildly interesting museum that includes a 19th century timber house once owned by a wealthy Bamber farmer. Inside displays include old bonnets, looms, paintings, clothing, and timber furniture – everything you’d expect in an ethnographic museum - but very little written information.QJ‑8, ul. Mostowa 7/9, tel. (+48) 605 62 16 11, www.bambrzy.poznan.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 10:00 - 14:00. Admission free. U POZNAŃ CROISSANT MUSEUM Considering how much of a Poznań trademark St. Martin’s croissants are, it’s surprising that a museum dedicated to them has only just recently popped up in the city. The Croissant Museum hosts numerous daily and weekly shows, one of which is in English and takes place at 13:45 Sat-Sun; it includes a multimedia presentation, legends, a tour of the historic museum building, a chance to bake croissants using traditional tools, and - of course - a tasting. QI‑7, Stary Rynek 41/2 (entrance from ul. Klasztorna 23), tel. (+48) 690 07 78 00, www.rogalowemuzeum.pl. Admission 18zł, 16zł/person for families. Y POZNAŃ KAISERPANORAMA NEW This throwback to 1920s entertainment has found a new home inside the Arkadia building - originally a theatre - on Plac Wolności, and will kick off with an exhibition of stereographic photographs from WWI (March to end of May). In previous years the 1923 antique - which made it intact through WWII, and went through stints of basement confinement in the postwar years - resided in the Arsenał City Gallery on the main square.QG‑7, ul. Ratajczaka 44. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun, Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 5/2zł, family ticket 10zł, group ticket 20zł.

Museums WIELKOPOLSKA MARTYRS MUSEUM One of 18 forts built by the Prussians in the 1870s to protect Poznań’s perimeter, ‘Fort VII’ gained notoriety when it was used as a Gestapo penal camp between 1939 and 1944. At least 18,000 Polish prisoners were processed here, of which 4,500 were murdered, though other estimates have the death toll as high as 20,000. The windswept grassy grounds make for a thought-provoking walk, along which visitors will see the ‘death wall’ - where up to seven prisoners were executed daily during Nazi rule, as well as dark underground tunnels used as makeshift gas chambers. Elsewhere a vaulted brick room holds a small but haunting display that includes a guillotine, an execution block, truncheons, whips, and arrest warrants. The personal effects of prisoners have also been preserved, including hand-written letters, playing cards, rosaries, and identity papers. Chillingly graffiti etched into the walls by prisoners can still be discerned, the writing framed with red and white ribbons. Reaching Fort VII is not an easy task, however. It’s found in the western suburbs, so your best bet is a taxi, with reputable drivers charging around 20-22zł for the journey.QAl. Polska (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 848 31 38, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Sun 10:00 - 16:00, Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 6/3zł. Tue free. Y WIELKOPOLSKA UPRISING MUSEUM Primarily chronicling the 1918-1919 Wielkopolska Uprising (though the exhibition starts at the time of partition) this museum occupies a rebuilt structure that once served as home to the Royal Guard. A /big renovation ended in December 2017, taking the exhibition from a series of artefacts to a modern multimedia creation on par with the Silesian Museum in Katowice or the Warsaw Uprising Museum in the nation’s capital (though much smaller, of course). Downstairs is a mish-mash of weapons, uniforms, reconstructed bunkers and trenches, and vintage photographs, which look great but fail to convey much meaningful information; the historical info is all upstairs, where you can also take a picture dressed as a Wielkopolska soldier.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 61 853 19 93, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Sun 10:00 16:00. Admission 10/5zł. Tue free. Y

Wielkopolska Uprising Museum

P O Z N A N S TA D I U M

POZNAŃ STADIUM Originally built in 1980, the city’s stadium was redeveloped rather than completely reconstructed when Poznań was chosen to host the EURO2012 football championship, with the capacity raised from 27,000 to 43,090 - an investment of €160 million. Today the home of popular local side Lech Poznań, Poznań Stadium (formerly INEA Stadium) is one of the top stadiums in Europe, featuring covered seating throughout, plus all the service points you would expect at a modern sports complex, including the rather splendid ‘12 Sports Bar & Restaurant.’ Host to large-scale events throughout the year, the stadium has also become a bit of a tourist attraction with 45min-1hr guided tours available in Polish and English, during which you’ll get a chance to experience the changing rooms that Lech Poznań call home, the Presidential boxes, press room, conference room, the Hall of Fame, and, of course, the pitch itself; check their website for exact tour times and prices. Getting there is easy - just catch tram no. 13 from ‘Pl. Wolności’, getting off at ‘INEA Stadion’ (soon changing its name to ‘Stadion Miejski’).Qul. Bułgarska 17 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 886 30 31, www.stadionpoznan.pl. Tours start 10:30, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00, 17:30, 19:00, Sat-Sun 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 15:00. Admission 17/10zł. Kids under 4 free. Y poznan.inyourpocket.com

Cafés

Breakfast at Petit Paris.

CAFE STRAGAN Obnoxious in principle, but perfectly warm and inviting in actuality, Stragan adheres to some stringent self-imposed rules, including a non-negotiable no-americano policy (they also refuse to make scrambled eggs). Instead, they’re committed to serving top-notch alternatively-brewed coffee, using all the new-fangled (or just currently trendy) methods like drip-brewing, aeropress, Chemex, and siphon; boxes of equipment are displayed on the back wall and available for sale, as are coffee beans. The dedication shows: their coffee was among the best we’ve tasted, so give it a go if you’re a caffeine enthusiast.QG‑7, ul. Franciszka Ratajczaka 31, tel. (+48) 789 23 39 65, www. craftcoffee.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. TU6W INNA PIEKARNIA The ‘Different Bakery’ indeed isn’t your run-of-the-mill bread and pączki shop. Though the space certainly could have been furnished in a more effective way - it reads a bit sparse and unfinished as is, though the rainforesttheme back wall is insta-worthy - the buttery croissants, soft-but-crunchy rolls, and scrumptious desserts are all divine, and the coffee is great as well. Unfortunately breakfast options are sorely lacking, with usually just one type of pre-made sandwich on offer (albeit a very very good one). Hopefully this will get remedied soon, as Inna has serious brunch potential.QG‑7, ul. Ratajczaka 39, tel. (+48) 724 01 94 94. Open 08:30 - 19:00. Closed Sun. TU6W MINISTER CAFE Ministerstwo Browaru has earned itself quite a reputation and is the perfect pub to find a healthy mixture of expats, 46 Poznań In Your Pocket

business types, and tourists enjoying one of the best selection of beers in Poz. But its sister venue - Minister CAFE - has also earned a faithful following and it’s easy enough to see why. The self-professed ‘cafe for those who like beer’ offers a trendy, laid-back interior (white tiles, wood, stainless steel) and a creative menu of burgers, cake, and beer snacks that will leave you watching your waistline. QG‑8, ul. Ratajczaka 34 (1st floor), tel. (+48) 601 53 37 47. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. W MÓWISH MASH Specialty coffee, several varieties of homemade cheesecake, and (mercifully optional) language lessons are the order of the day at this cosy and modern Jeżyce cafe. The attention to detail here is praiseworthy: coffee comes served with a laminated bit of paper describing the bean variety, origin, and flavour profile, so some learning is unavoidable after all. Those keen on improving their English or Spanish can set up lessons with a private tutor, which take place in a separate section of the cafe (70zł/h, with a beverage included in the price). Come in before 14:00 for a selection of tasty breakfast options, including banana oatmeal, French toast, avo toast, scrambled eggs with dried tomatoes, and more, with a strong emphasis on high-quality local ingredients. QZwierzyniecka 41, tel. (+48) 573 93 89 89. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIE A prime location on the ground floor of Poznań’s bustling Stary Browar shopping complex means that this cafe/ boulangerie is never short of customers looking to take a break from their latest spending spree. The interior is smart but informal, and the friendly staff busy themselves serving

Cafés up everything from fresh coffees and teas to crepes, tarts, pastries, and freshly-baked French bread. For those looking for something a little more substantial there are daily soups and a range of lunches to line your stomach before sampling one of their wines.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55, www.petitparis. com.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. UW PĄCZUŚ I KAWUSIA Should you wander out to the largely residential Łazarz district - known for its Palm House (p.72), swanky City Park complex, old-school open air market, and mild state of disrepair - definitely aim for a pit stop at this charming cafe just off the district’s main square. Called ‘donut and coffee’, the selection of treats won’t surprise you, but the quality will - the delicious pączki (Polish hole-less doughnuts) are homemade, often warm, and come in a variety of fillings, and the specialty coffee is brewed using a number of alternative methods. Recommended.QUl. Rynek Łazarski 8, tel. (+48) 690 00 37 23. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PIJALNIA CZEKOLADY E.WEDEL STARY RYNEK This cosy chocolate lounge offers a superb collection of confectionery courtesy of Wedel - Poland’s bestloved brand. Find chocolates, cakes, and pralines of every description, plus rich hot chocolate drinks you can practically stand a spoon up in - all of it every bit as sweet and delightful as it sounds. A perfect place to spoil your sweetheart or reward the kids.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 92, tel. (+48) 665 65 10 18, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Fri 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 22:00. T6W PROJEKT WILSON Just outside Wilson Park, Projekt Wilson is the perfect cosy hideaway for enjoying a mug of hot tea and a plate of something sweet while exploring Łazarz. Exposed brick walls, high ceilings, and plenty of natural light create a comfy and homey space, and the menu offers all day breakfast and plenty of light lunch choices - baguettes, soups, salads - plus a 30zł set menu served Mon-Fri from noon until closing. With a great ambience and leafy (or snowy) view, this is our go-to in this part of town.QB‑9, ul. Matejki 56, tel. (+48) 504 96 96 56. Open 09:00 - 20:00. T6W PTASIE RADIO Named after “The Bird Radio,” a famous children’s poem by Julian Tuwim, this rustic cafe really commits to the theme with subtle murals, vintage bird cages, and bird-shaped figurines. The large selection of unique, seasonal hot and cold drinks (lemonades, hot chocolates, smoothies, coffees, and the like) might be the primary draw, but it’s not all Ptasie Radio also offers breakfasts, lunches, and delicious chocolate cake.QF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 74/3, tel. (+48) 61 853 64 51, www.ptasieradio.pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00. Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. T6W

RÓŻOVE Walking through the door of this establishment is like stepping into a close friend’s super trendy kitchen, except the friend is an insane baker with a glass case full of glorious fresh cakes. Featuring an nviting open layout, friendly and easygoing staff, and a pink theme that stays strictly within the limits of good taste at all times, Róźove is part cafe, part trinket shop, and all cosy hang-out.QI‑7, ul. Wodna 23, tel. (+48) 725 01 00 77, www.rozove.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. U6W TACZAKA 20 A cool upstairs cafe drawing an artsy crowd during daylight hours when they’re in need of coffee and sandwiches. The interior features one wall covered in stray pieces of wood, and the menu is a simple array of salads, cake, and snacks like hummus, while the true standout is their minimal beer selection, featuring some local microbrews. A low-key winner.QG‑8, ul. Taczaka 20, tel. (+48) 799 17 44 14. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Fri 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. 6W UN POT You’d think utilizing all the stereotypically hip-n-cool paraphernalia of modern-day hipster locales - like wooden pallets, whitewashed brick, and mason jars (hence the name) - would turn this place into one big fat (cool) cliche, but the rustic decor is absolutely fresh, cozy, and pretty darn unique. With gentle mood music and an all-around calming ambience, this is the perfect place to eat a light breakfast, chat over coffee, or try out one of the “1001” flavors of beer, like cotton candy, watermelon, cucumber, or pistachio.QH‑7, ul. Sieroca 5/6, tel. (+48) 662 27 74 25. Open 09:00 - 24:00. Mon 09:00 - 23:00, Tue 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. BW WAPIARNIA Coffee, vape, repeat - and maybe throw a bit of breakfast in there too (not very good breakfast though). Wapiarnia, also found in Gdańsk and Lublin, mixes a vape shop with a cool cafe (designer furniture, plants, indie magazines, the works) inside the swanky City Park complex. Just stay away from the toast unless you want to munch on a huge chunk of drywall.QA‑9/10, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26, tel. (+48) 730 65 04 00, www.wapiarnia.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Mon 09:00 - 14:00, Tue 09:00 - 14:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00. T6W ZEMSTA ANARCHIST BOOKSHOP & CLUB Get to know the Anarchists - a group that is perhaps more bookish, organised, and vegan than you imagined. As far from a shady, rambunctious squat as you can get, at first glance this place might look like an ordinary (vegan) lunch bar, cafe, and bookstore well-stocked with high-quality journalism and travel writing, but walk up to the counter and you will find pamphlets attempting to convince casual picker-uppers that in their heart of hearts they’re anarchists too.QF‑7, ul. Fredry 5/3A, tel. (+48) 61 823 25 63, www. zemsta.org. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. N6W poznan.inyourpocket.com

Regional Dishes

St. Martin’s Croissant | Photo courtesy of City of Poznań

Though much of their cuisine is shared with Poland as a whole, Poznań and the wider Wielkopolska region do have some of the most distinctive dishes in the country. Here’s a rundown of popular fare that you can get your hands on even when all the local grannies are busy cooking for someone else. Do keep in mind that restaurant menus change, and these dishes might become unavailable during the shelf life of this guide - luckily most restaurants post their menus online, so you can quickly double-check before showing up for dinner.

POTATOES WITH GZIK

Nearly ubiquitous as a starter in Poznań’s Polish restaurants, gzik is made of quark cheese mixed with cream and chives or radish. Served together with jacket potatoes, this 19th century peasant dish is known as ‘pyra z gzikiem’ in local parlance. Where to try it: most Polish restaurants, including Wiejskie Jadło (p.61), Chłopskie Jadło (p.59), Bamberka (p.61), and Hyćka (p.60) 48 Poznań In Your Pocket

ROAST DUCK

Whereas in most corners of Poland, until fairly recently, Peking duck was an eyebrow-raising oddity, and ‘edible’ poultry was limited to chicken and turkey, Wielkopolska has long liked its kaczka. Traditionally served roasted with cabbage, apples, and dumplings, duck has recently also founds its way into pierogi and even burgers. Where to try it: Ratuszova (p.61), Bazar 1838 (p.59), Pretekst (p.55), Wiejskie Jadło (p.61), Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem (p.60), Hyćka (p.60); duck pierogi at Ratuszova and Pretekst

Regional Dishes GREY DUMPLINGS / SZARE KLUCHY

Grey - the #1 least appetising colour. Unfortunately, that’s just the hue raw potatoes turn after you shred them, a necessary first step in the making of these popular but uninspired dumplings. After shredding, the potatoes are mixed with egg and flour and cooked to lumpy perfection. Traditionally accompanied by sauerkraut, szare kluchy aren’t exactly a fashionable dish anymore, though we’d love to see a more glammed-up version one day. Where to try them: Bamberka (p.61) and Hyćka (p.60)

CZERNINA

ST. MARTIN’S GOOSE

Another St. Martin’s Day delicacy is roast goose, a nod towards a legend detailing how St. Martin was hiding in a flock of geese in an attempt to avoid becoming a bishop (the geese gave him away by honking loudly). Unlike croissants, St. Martin’s goose really does make an appearance only around St. Martin’s day; there’s even an official ‘Goose for St. Martin’s Day’ food festival, now in its eleventh year. Where to try it: sadly, out of luck until November

HYĆKA

A local rendition of elderflower cordial, and not a popular drink elsewhere in Poland. The recipe is simple: elderflower, sugar and water, resulting in a sweet, vitaminrich concoction. Where to try it: where else - Hyćka (p.60) A bit grisly, this mixture of clear broth and duck’s blood with a handful of noodles is commonly said to taste better than it looks, though you be the judge - we’re keeping mum. Perfect for Halloween and beyond. Where to try it: Bamberka (p.61) and Hyćka (p.60)

ST. MARTIN’S CROISSANTS

St. Martin’s Day (November 11th) has been a Poznań obsession ever since a church named after the saint was erected in the 13th century. The celebrations call for a very specific treat, and that’s rogale świętomarcińskie (St. Martin’s croissants) Filled with a poppy seed and almond paste and topped with a healthy pile of sugary glaze, these croissant-like pastries apparently date back to the 19th century. If you believe local legend, their inventor was baker Józef Melzer, who prayed to St.Martin for pastry ideas to honour the saint’s holiday, and was inspired when seeing a horse slip a shoe in the St. Martin’s Day parade. Where to try them: while November is the high season for these treats, their immense popularity means that they can be found in bakeries year-round poznan.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Muga (p.56)

Poznań might have a reputation as an international centre of commerce, but its restaurant scene has only recently started taking off, with a scattering of world-class restaurants and an increasing number of good ethnic options. While In Your Pocket once listed every venue in the city, the explosion of the market and its sheer redundancy now makes that pursuit impossible. Our print guide carries a wide selection of what we feel are Poznań’s most noteworthy restaurants, however there are many more listed on our website (poznan.inyourpocket.com) where we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the places you’ve visited. All our reviews are updated regularly, completely subjective and unsolicited. The figures we quote in brackets represent the cheapest and costliest main courses on the menu. The opening hours are verified as we send this guide off to the printer, but keep in mind that they’re subject to change. Where the venue is not on our map we have included the district where it is located in brackets. Below is a selection of recommendations depending on what you may be looking for. SPLURGE Any ‘best of’ list in Poznań is invariably going to see a slew of nominations for Blow Up Hall 5050 (p.53), where you’ll find very modern versions of Polish cooking in an impossibly cutting edge neo-industrial setting. For upmarket close to the market square, try Ratuszova (p.61) and Ośla Ławka (p.55), and for something out of the centre head to the daringly modern SPOT. (p.56). 50 Poznań In Your Pocket

COUPLES Restauracja MUGA (p.56), and its attached Casa De Vinos wine bar (p.69), is the perfect place to impress your date, while Figaro (p.57) is so over-the-top you half expect to be served by Cupid himself. For something completely different, think of all the naughty things you can do under the table in the pitch black of Dark Restaurant (p.54). POLISH By popular vote, the market square’s Ratuszova (p.61) is the best Polish food you’ll find in Poznań, and served in one of the most elegant interiors you’ve ever eaten in. In contrast, Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem (p.60) and Wiejskie Jadło (p.61) do traditional interpretations of Polish food in rustic environs, Hyćka (p.60) has the widest selection of regional Wielkopolska cuisine, and the pierogi spot Na Winklu (p.60) prefers a more contemporary twist. QUICK EATS For a speedy but tasty meal that will leave you with more time for sightseeing, try the falafel bowls at Falla (p.62), ramen at Ramen-Ya (p.58), or pho at PHOBAR (p.52). SPECIAL DIET Our Vegetarian listings are on p.62, but you’ll also find tasty vegan and gluten-free dishes in Projekt Kuchnia (p.55) and SPOT. (p.56). If it’s Polish food you’re after, Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem (p.60) will adapt any of their dishes exactly to your dietary needs and desires.

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY 6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

W Wi-fi connection X Smoking room available T Child-friendly

B Outside seating

AMERICAN FAT BOB BURGER Considered one of the best burgers in town (which is saying something considering PL’s recent infatuation with gourmet fast food), FBB has been drawing rave reviews from critics and ordinary meat lovers alike. Made with fresh ingredients, high-quality beef, and home-made buns, these meaty concoctions are both extra filling and a little more sophisticated than what you’d get at the drive-thru. For the vegetarian crowd, there’s a grilled halloumi option.QI‑7, ul. Kramarska 21, tel. (+48) 794 93 93 33. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. €€. U6 INDIAN STEAK Poland does still like its Native American cliches, and if you look past the name and harmless sprinkling of tribal and ‘wild wild West’ exotica (which admittedly is incorporated tastefully into the elegant, red-brick interior), you will discover an upscale steak house serving a wide assortment of cuts including tournedo, T-bone, fiorentina, ribeye, top sirloin, and even the elusive 1.2kg tomahawk steak, widely considered the best of the bunch. Pair the perfectly-grilled meat with regional sides like potatoes with gzik, goat cheese, oyster mushrooms, or meadow lettuces (all from locally-sourced ingredients), or opt for one of Indian’s Wielkopolska-centric options like venison or roast duck with cabbage and dumplings.QA‑9/10, ul. Ułańska 1, tel. (+48) 61 221 78 07, www.indiansteak.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. BW SOMEPLACE ELSE Some baulk at the prices, but there’s no escaping that Someplace Else is the full monty – here’s a place that gets both food and drink completely right, with a largely American menu of burgers, steaks, and Tex Mex; sometimes that’s just what you need. The diner design is straight out of road-trip USA, and a great spot for ties-off, after-office chow, and beers. With 9 TVs, this is also one of your best bets for catching that match be it European or American.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. TUWY

BREAKFAST 239 Cosy breakfast spots abound in this city, and 239 is one of the best - a warm industrial-chic hideaway sharing space with an architectural design studio and serving up an all-vegetarian array of millet porridge with fruits, club sandwiches, omelettes, and other seasonally-changing options. The coffee is splendid and a daily special lunch is served as well; the one drawback is the walk needed to get here from the city centre, but use this as your opportunity to explore Poznań’s lesser-known Łazarz district. Heartily recommended.QA‑11, ul. Sczanieckiej 10/2, tel. (+48) 730 50 32 11. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. €. T6W ALEKOSMOS NEW Carrying on the legacy of Porannik, another breakfastery which used to occupy this tiny space, ALEkosmos offers a short menu of breakfast goodness, at the time of writing comprising just two omelettes, avocado toast, and shakshouka, but what they lack in variety they make up in quality. The coffee is splendid, there is always fresh cake on standby and a few lunch options to choose from, like chili con carne and veggie burgers. Sadly, breakfast is not served on Sundays. QG‑6, ul. 23 Lutego 9, tel. (+48) 781 82 20 77. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Sun 12:00 - 19:00. €. B6W BAJGLE KRÓLA JANA NEW Though now inseverably connected to NYC, the humble bagel can trace its roots to Central Europe, with many agreeing it was invented by Cracovian Jews after 1496 when King Jan Sobieski lifted the decree that formerly restricted the production of baked goods to the Kraków Bakers Guild. This bit of culinary history is celebrated at ‘King Jan’s Bagels’, a cafe and breakfast spot in the trendy Jeżyce district, cloned from the original Szczecin location. The menu bursts with a generous selection of bagel sandwiches with fixings including mascarpone, sweet potato, prosciutto, and marinated tofu. Reservations recommended. QC‑6, ul. Kraszewskiego 15, tel. (+48) 732 80 64 44, www. bajglekrolajana.pl. Open 08:30 - 18:00 . Sat 09:00 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. TBW UNO Absolutely smashing breakfast and specialty coffee (cold brew, chemex, aeropress, the works) in a typical ‘cool 2010s interior’ of exposed brick, light wood, plants, and wall art - pleasant. The menu changes regularly, but expect elevated versions of popular brekkie dishes like decked-out bagels, shakshouka, porridge, frittata, French toast, granola, eggs, and more. You can even grab yourself a bag of coffee beans recommended by the knowledgeable staff. Recommended. QC‑6, ul. Bolesława Prusa 4/2, tel. (+48) 501 03 17 87. Open 08:00 - 18:00. Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. €. 6W poznan.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants ASIAN

TRADITIONAL POLISH CUISINE A.D.1954

PHOBAR More like Berlin in Poznań rather than Hanoi in Poznań, and the local cool kids aren’t complaining. Big bowls of beautiful pho bo, pho bo sot vang, and a vegan alternative are served amid loud dubstep to hip youth seated at communal tables; the exposed-brick interior and party garlands complete the stylish atmosphere. The broth might not be the most flavourful, but a splash of sriracha and fish sauce from strategically placed bottles resolve the issue to an extent. Those pining for other Vietnamese specialties can enjoy nem ran (spring rolls), splendid coffee with condensed milk, and something called the Vietnamese burger.QB‑6, ul. Wawrzyniaka 19, tel. (+48) 501 97 39 74. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Fri 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 22:00. €€. 6W

FUSION

RATUSZOVA RESTAURANT STARY RYNEK 55, POZNAŃ +48 618 510 513

SOCIAL NIGHT MARKET

DRUKARNIA SKŁAD WINA & CHLEBA POZNAŃ Despite being within spitting distance of the Rynek, Podgórna isn’t the most fashionable street in Poznań, so we were pleasantly surprised to discover this trendy eatery and cafe. The smell of freshly baked bread wafts through the minimal-chic interior, and the menu comprises a full card of rich and colourful fusion creations to complement the upmarket tastes of the wine list. Everything from the kitchen looks like it could be featured in a food art magazine, and overall Drukarnia is evidence of just how far the city’s culinary scene has come on in the past few years. Pop in for a delicious 15-21zł breakfast Mon-Fri between 7:00 and 12:00, weekends 10:00-13:00. New artwork (available for purchase) appears on the walls every month or so.QH‑7, ul. Podgórna 6, tel. (+48) 61 850 14 20, www.winoichleb. com. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. €€. TU6W

INDIAN

Photo by Piotr Krupa

Opening in May, this summertime food truck extravaganza is where all the cool kids go to eat and socialize. Co-organised by one of our favourite eateries, Falla (p.62), it takes place nightly (with the exception of Mondays) in and around a rusty old railway depot still filled with abandoned trains. Regular concerts spice up the evenings, while among the vendors you might find Falla, Hatti (p.52), przyjemność (p.59), and other food trucks and food shacks doling out Mexican, Asian, burgers, vegan eats, arepas, ice cream, and more. While a bit far from city centre, the market can be easily reached by tram - check jakdojade.pl for up-to-date tram schedules.Qul. Kolejowa 23, tel. (+48) 511 84 11 55. Open 14:00 - 22:00. Thu 14:00 - 01:00, Fri 14:00 - 04:00, Sat 15:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. B 52 Poznań In Your Pocket

HATTI Our hopes were not high for this establishment - good Indian is still fairly difficult to come by in Poland - but we were pleasantly surprised as the appetiser papadums with a selection of chutneys came out of the kitchen, followed by some very decent tikka masalas and mango lassis. From the ornate and slightly musty decor to the extensive selection of dishes, this is a familiar, Westernised version of the subcontinental eating experience such as you’ll find in the UK or US, and we goras are happy. Looking forward to coming back whenever the pakora cravings kick back in.QI‑7, ul. Woźna 13, tel. (+48) 732 71 00 00, www.hatti. pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. €€. U6W

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Restaurants TAJ INDIA For those staying in the centre, it’s easy to overlook Taj India due to its location up at Lake Malta. But if a walk around Malta is on your to-do list then you could do a lot worse than pop in for a bite to eat. Granted, from the outside it doesn’t look like much, but the inside decor is authentic without being too over the top and the staff are extremely helpful. The menu provides all you’d expect from an Indian restaurant, including chicken vindaloo, lamb boti, a good selection of veggie options, and all the extras - naans, beers, poppadoms, and the like - required to supplement the meal.Qul. Wiankowa 3, tel. (+48) 61 876 62 49, www.tajindia.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. TUBW

INTERNATIONAL BIERHALLE This familiar tourist-friendly franchise lives up to its name, bringing its Oktoberfest atmosphere to Poznań’s Posnania Shopping Centre. At Bierhalle they brew their own, offering 5 different ales most commonly ordered by the litre, but you can also go gorilla with a 5l barrel. The beer-friendly franchise menu consists of German bratwurst, ribs, pork knuckle, and other meaty feasts with fries, the busty servers in faux-folk costumes look like they’ve just finished milking the cows, and TVs stream sports to complete the lads magnet appeal.QM‑10, ul. Pleszewska 1 (Posnania), tel. (+48) 508 80 07 55, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 21:00. €€. TB6W BLOW UP HALL 5050 Blow Up 5050 is a combination of gastronomy and art that will blow your socks off. The name is a combination of the 1966 Antonioni thriller combined with the owner’s philosophy of making all her enterprises 50% art and 50% business. Complementing the award winning hotel and bar is the restaurant, where prices are at the very top end of the Poznań market, as is the quality. The seasonal cuisine - crafted by Top Chef Poland winner Tomasz Purol - is superb, and the surroundings will leave you feeling you’ve become part of a living art exhibition, making it a truly unique experience in Poland, and perhaps even Europe. QG‑9, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 90, www. blowuphall5050.com. Open 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€€€€. TUW BO.POZNAN The perfect brunch/coffee+newspaper spot, Bo.Poznan is frequented by couples in ironic t-shirts, three-generation families out for a festive breakfast, and caffeine-guzzling laptoppers alike. Turning a below-street-level location into a cosy advantage, Bo. not only is homey enough that you might keep postponing your day’s activities to sit a while longer, they also serve ample portions of early- and midday food for very reasonable prices. Recommended.QF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 84, tel. (+48) 61 226 78 65. Open 08:00 19:30. Sat 09:30 - 19:30, Sun 09:30 - 18:30. €€. T6 WY poznan.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants BROVARIA Go formal and pick the right-hand room for a smoothly subdued dining area or else do as the rank-and-file and head either to the brewing hall out back, the bar to the side, or the al fresco terrace. Brovaria has something for everyone, from half a roast duck to a French veggie tart, with the premium price reserved for the grilled beef sirloin. Or consider tucking into the beer feast – essentially a huge platter piled inches high with a mix of seafood and meat. Not for nothing has Brovaria been crowned king of the expatriate scene.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. TW

PASSION FOR FOOD Wodna 3/4, 61-781 Poznań Phone +48 61 852 49 95 www.lavenda-cafelunch.pl

DARK RESTAURANT “Adventurous” isn’t a word we often like to pair with the word “dining” (after all, that’s how folks on reality TV end up eating spiders), but this place proves to be the exception. As its name implies, Dark Restaurant is devoted to having diners eat their dinner in inky blackness. We’re not talking mood lighting, either; the cavernous room is so dark that the waiters actually wear night vision goggles. The idea behind Dark Restaurant is that by impairing your sense of sight, you enhance your other senses, which makes for a more exciting dining experience. It’s also a great excuse to eat with your hands, because utensils are completely useless without the benefit of eyesight. Each of the menu themes - bizarre food, mood food, and a more standard option - comes with a variety of courses, and you aren’t told what you’re digging into until the meal is over. All these factors add up to a messy and intriguing meal that will have you guessing with every bite. Sure, some of the foods are obvious, but basil ice cream? Oranges with sea salt? Your tongue will undoubtedly be tantalized. Fortunately, your meal ends with a chance to talk with your waiter and the head chef, who delight in making you guess what you ate.QI‑7, ul. Garbary 48, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 57, www.darkrestaurant.pl. Open 16:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun. €€€€€. 6W 54 Poznań In Your Pocket

CONCORDIA TASTE A long-standing editorial favourite, thanks to their willingness to buck trends and try something different. The design is what you would call post-industrial (the live cooking station is a huge plus) and the clientele sharpdressed and out to impress. The food comes beautifully presented by efficient staff and the seasonal menu features some truly mouth-watering options, which in the past have included the likes of goose pierogi, truffle risotto with fried oyster mushrooms, and hake steak with bulgur, crayfish butter, and vegetables.QD‑7, ul. Zwierzyniecka 3, tel. (+48) 61 667 44 19, www.concordiataste.pl. Open 08:30 22:00. Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. €€€. TUW CUCINA 88 Situated in the rather swanky City Park complex, Cucina 88 is the ideal location for those who are looking to impress. A mixture of business-types, expats and monied locals can be found ordering an array of fancy dishes and there’s little threat of those bottles of wine that adorn the wooden shelves having enough time to gather dust. The rest of the open space is filled with luxurious spice jars, candles, and attractive waitstaff scurrying around doing a great job of keeping everybody happy. To try more dishes, opt for the tasting menu: five courses for 188zł, seven for 228zł, or the VIP nine-course adventure with wine pairing and chef+sommelier service for 688zł. QA‑9, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26a (City Park Hotel & Residence), tel. (+48) 602 66 88 00, www.cucina88.pl. Open 06:30 23:00. Sat 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 18:00. €€€€. TU BE6W FLAVORIA Tucked away deep inside the IBB Andersia Hotel, Flavoria isn’t the type of place you just stumble across by accident. But those willing to sniff it out will find a smart, modern restaurant with a good mixture of international cuisine ranging from standard breakfast buffets (06:30 - 10:00 Mon-Fri, 7:00-11:00 Sat-Sun) to more sophisticated evening dishes like duck supreme with herby dumplings, smoked beetroot, onion confit, and cranberry puree. With daylight streaming through the large windows by day and dim candlelight during dinner, Flavoria is one of the city’s more formal restaurants, ideal for business lunches and other such upmarket eating occasions.QG‑9, Pl. Andersa

Restaurants 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 667 80 81, www. andersiahotel.pl. Open 06:30 - 10:30, Sat,Sun 07:00 11:00 for breakfast, 13:00 - 18:00 for lunch, 18:00 - 23:00 for dinner. €€€. TWY LAVENDA GASTRO & CAFE There are a slew of cosy little cafes dotted around the back streets of Stary Rynek, and competition is indeed tough; Lavenda slots right in there with the very best of them, though. A relaxed atmosphere and a great array of hot drinks, wines, and light food make this the perfect place to share a lunchtime coffee or to meet for an intimate first date. Breakfast is served daily between 08:00 and 13:00, while lunchtime goes from 12:30 until 16:00.QI‑7, ul. Wodna 3/4, tel. (+48) 61 852 49 95, www.lavendacafelunch.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 23:00. €€. TB6W OŚLA ŁAWKA Gourmet food in a confusing (but strangely tasteful) interior punctuated by vintage school supplies and teaching aids, including an anatomical model, abacus, blackboard, and world map. Drinks come in lab beakers, the complimentary bread has to be fished out of a brown paper bag, and the menu changes daily according to the whimsy of the devilishly talented chef. We chanced on the cauliflower with brown butter and sang its praises for a week.QG‑8, ul. Stanisława Taczaka 23, tel. (+48) 535 46 64 77. Open 16:00 - 21:00, Fri 16:00 - 21:30, Sat 13:00 - 21:30, Sun 13:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. €€€. T6W POD PRĘGIERZEM Some of the best buildings on Poznań’s Old Market Square are the old Merchant Houses and that’s exactly where you’ll find Pod Pręgierzem. For years this was Post Office Cafe, but a recent transformation has seen it aim towards those looking to grab a quick bite rather than a cup of coffee. The menu boasts plenty of breakfast options (from ‘continental’ to ‘full English’) and traditional Poznań meals like ham hock and duck. Soft music, cheery staff, and walls decked out in photos paying homage to some of the city’s finest buildings make this a fine choice. There’s even a kid’s play area downstairs which kept us entertained while we were waiting for our soup.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 25/29, tel. (+48) 61 855 00 06, www.podpregierzem.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00. €€€. T6W PRETEKST A delightfully quirky café/bar/restaurant situated round the back of the Imperial Castle, where trumpets burst out of the wall and gold-framed 19th-century paintings jostle for space. Successfully blending old-fashioned furniture with a modern atmosphere, Pretekst (The Excuse) offers a romp through refined regional cuisine with dishes like fried salmon with sorrel sauce, duck breast with cabbage and dumplings, and chicken supreme. Recommended. QF‑7, ul. Fredry 7, tel. (+48) 515 74 93 33, www.restauracjapretekst.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€. TUEW poznan.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants PROJEKT KUCHNIA Poznań’s culinary scene has come on leaps and bounds over the last couple of years and nowhere is it more evident than here. Located in the heart of the city’s bustling Stary Browar shopping centre, Projekt Kuchnia provides a sleek, sexy environment in which to enjoy some of the finest food around town. Oh, and did we mention that much of it is organic, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, or dairy-free? Though the menu doesn’t discriminate against carnivores by any stretch, those on a special diet will find their Shangri-La here, and their foodie friends will be glad they tagged along. The top quality extends from the breakfast menu to the wine list, and if you’re browsing around the Old Brewery, you can stop your search for the best place to eat - this is it.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 606 99 29 99, www.projektkuchnia.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Sun 10:00 - 20:00, On shopping-ban Sundays 10:00 - 18:00. €€. TUBW RESTAURACJA MUGA Located right next door to Casa de Vinos wine bar (just step through the glass door), MUGA has managed to serve up a perfect mixture of fine European food, great service, and excellent wine. The seasonal menu rivals anything else we’ve sampled and the bright, well-lit interior makes for a warm and inviting stay. A perfect spot for courting couples, business deals, and those looking to impress; first-daters should head to the far corner where intimacy is almost encouraged.QH‑8, ul. Krysiewicza 5, tel. (+48) 61 855 10 35, www.restauracjamuga.pl. Open 17:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. €€€. W SPOT. Fashion, design, and cuisine collide at SPOT, a unique shopping complex set inside the beautifully restored late 19th-century Wilda power station, which is surrounded by a lovely green park. Home to several shops and services, it all serves as mere garnish for the excellent restaurant, which should be your main motivation for visiting. Sporting a smart post-industrial swagger with monochrome colours, exposed bricks, and retro kitsch decor, the atmosphere is inspired, and the menu offers sophisticated European cuisine accented by Asian flavours, including vegetarian and gluten-free dishes. With craft beer, a large selection of wines, and their own sommelier, this is Poznań at its cutting edge best.Qul. Dolna Wilda 87, tel. (+48) 61 835 88 40, www.spot.poznan.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. €€€. TUB6W THE TIME Located in Poznań’s posh Młyńska 12 business centre, the result of the refurbishment of a fin de siècle building designed by architect Oskar Hoffman, The Time meets the standards of its high-profile guests. Perfect for impressing both business partners and dates, they serve a menu of sophisticated dishes like duck pierogi with foie gras and beet puree or quail with figs and vegetables. Over 150 56 Poznań In Your Pocket

Restaurants various bottled of wine can be fetched from the cellar by the waiter, and live piano music adds to the ritzy experience on Saturdays from 19:00 until 22:00.QG‑6, ul. Młyńska 12, tel. (+48) 61 627 03 07, www.mlynska12.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. €€€€. TUE6W WERANDA LUNCH & WINE Weranda is a restaurant worthy of its setting at the confluence of the old and new portions of the vast Stary Browar shopping centre, with an open twostory skylit space (what the hell are those colourful things hanging from the ceiling?) that is breathtaking even in a building that’s known for its architecture. If upscale mall dining exists then Weranda has perfected it, with a daily lunch menu (29zł from 12:00 till the food runs out) that can include anything from pasta to grilled meat to whatever strikes the chef ’s fancy. All of it can be paired with wine, easily making shopping an afterthought. On non-shopping-ban Sundays (currently the last Sunday of each month) the restaurant is open until midnight.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 859 69 69, www.werandafamily.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Thu 09:00 - 23:00, Fri 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. €€€. TB W Y ZIELONA WERANDA Not the easiest place to find despite being only a stone’s throw from the square, which makes its discovery (head into what looks like a shop to find it tucked away at the back) even more of a pleasant surprise. Clearly a labour of love as reflected by beautiful paper decorations set against the mismatch of wooden furnishings, exposed brick, and copious shrubbery. Spread over a number of small rooms, Zielona Weranda is one of our favourite lunch spots with a tasty, well-prepared range of soups, salads, breakfast sandwiches, and snacks. The tea, coffee, and cake options are so encyclopaedic, the harder aspect of spending time here is deciding what to have. QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 851 32 90, www.werandafamily.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. €€€. T6WY

TRADITIONAL POLISH CUISINE A.D.1954 WHERE KING JAN II KAZIMIERZ WAZA RESIDED IN 16571658 YOU MAY SAVOUR AUTHENTIC TRADITIONAL POLISH CUISINE AND DISHES OF AN INTERNATIONAL FLAVOUR EXPERTLY PREPARED BY OUR HIGHLY EXPERIENCED CHEF. FOUR DIFFERENT AREAS ARE AVAILABLE FOR OUR GUESTS: RESTAURANT, CAFE, BAR & SUMMER GARDEN

ITALIAN BAR A BOO Looking for Poznań’s best pizzeria? Look no further. To be honest, labelling this place a pizzeria is a bit of a cop out as the menu also offers up breakfasts, macaroni dishes, and salads, and the smart, elegant interior rivals some of the city’s better restaurants. A good mixture of wines to order by the glass or bottle and plenty of beers and spirits mean that if you’re coming here to line your stomach, the inevitable ul. Taczaka pub crawl may kick off later than you planned.QF‑8, ul. Taczaka 11, tel. (+48) 61 883 43 15, www.baraboo.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Mon 10:00 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €€. TU BW

WWW.RATUSZOVA.PL +48 618 510 513

poznan.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants FIGARO Romantic repasts and serious business dinners take place amongst these starched tablecloths and vases of flowers. Prices are steep, but well within the spending power of most Western visitors. Diners can choose from a large list of pastas, beef tenderloin, veal, and an expansive wine list. What Figaro is famous for though is its fresh fish and seafood, which is said to be among the best in the city. Those wanting to really push the boat out may wish to take advantage of the restaurant’s VIP room, which can be hired out for those extra special occasions. Kitchen closes at 22:00 Mon-Sat, so don’t leave your culinary feast till the last minute.QG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 856 01 89, www.restauracjafigaro.eu. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. €€€. T6W

JAPANESE

RistoRante FigaRo ul. ogrodowa 17, 61-821 Poznań tel. +48 61 856 01 89 www.restauracjafigaro.eu figaro@restauracjafigaro.eu

ul. Wojskowa 4 Poznań (next to City Park) open: mon-sat 12-23, sun 12-22 phone: + 48 519 376 182 www.kyokai.pl email: sushi@kyokai.pl

Celebrating 10 years 58 Poznań In Your Pocket

KYOKAI SUSHI BAR The City Park development just to the west of the centre (past the Trade Fairs) is home to some of the city’s best eating establishments and this is true for Kyokai, one of Poznań’s most notable Japanese efforts. Laid out over two floors, Kyokai features sushi sets revolving around a circular bar, while a sushi sensei multitasks in the thick of it all. Set in a series of converted red brick buildings, the surroundings look chic and sexy, as do the clientele. Definitely one to check out, take tram 13 to the ‘Wojskowa’ stop.QA‑8, ul. Wojskowa 4 (Łazarz), tel. (+48) 519 37 61 82, www.kyokai.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. TU6W RAMEN-YA This hole-in-the-wall might be tiny, awkwardly furnished, and somewhat rudimentary, but boy, is the ramen good. After the success of Yetztu on ul. Krysiewicza it looked like Poznań didn’t need any more ramen joints, and yet these boys came along and knocked the ball out of the park again. The menu consists of shoyu, shio, kimchi, and mazamen ramen (in meaty and vegan versions), plus snacks like bao buns; the cooks know their stuff and food arrives super fast. While not exactly the place for an extended sit-down, this is one of our favourite spots for a quick bite of something good.QC‑5, ul. Kościelna 4, tel. (+48) 731 09 73 58. Open 12:00 - 21:00. €€. 6W YETZTU Ramen, ramen, ramen - the best in Poznań, in fact (though that notion is now being challenged with the arrival of Ramen-Ya in Jeżyce). Tiny and decorated with assorted cutsey Japanese paraphernalia - beckoning cats, anime figurines, worried-looking bake-danuki - Yetztu offers several versions of the beloved noodles, including shio (with wontons), shoyu (with chicken), vegio (with tofu), kamo (with chili duck), and yakitori (with yakitori). There are also edemame beans to munch on, kakuni marinated pork belly, kimchi, and the very bold ‘wonton nachos’.QH‑8, ul. Bolesława Krysiewicza 6, tel. (+48) 61 840 17 12. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Fri 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€. TW

Restaurants ZINDO SUSHI KOREAN-JAPANESE RESTAURANT An expansion from their Warsaw and Wrocław operations, Zindo’s modern beige-heavy space still appears to be struggling to attract attention from the folks in Poznań. An all-you-can-eat sushi buffet keeps the place busy, and provides more of a bang-for-your-buck experience than the pricier dinner menu option - drop in between 12:00 and 17:00 for 60zł/person, and 17:00-22:00 for 70zł/person (or stay in and get Uber Eats to deliver). The Korean menu is a standout, and adventurous eaters can indulge in octopus, fried squid, or raw fish with vegetables to test their mettle. More traditional options like kimchi are reliably well done. QI‑7, ul. Kramarska 15, tel. (+48) 61 853 01 78, www. zindo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. €€€. TW

PIZZA PRZYJEMNOŚĆ Classic hipster find. Located in the rather run-down and overlooked Wilda district, przyjemność (pleasure) is probably not something you’d stumble upon by accident, but cool hunters will be glad they made the trek from the old town. Tiny but well designed, przyjemność is reminiscent of hole-in-the-wall Asian establishments mixed with 2019 European hipsterdom: there are hanging plants, underground culture magazines, and a long countertop with bar stools, while the focal point is California-style pizza and white wine spritzers. In the warm season the eatery spills out into the adjacent green space, where picnic tables and umbrellas have been set out. QG‑10, ul. Górna Wilda 82/84, tel. (+48) 789 38 54 55. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€. 6W

Korean-Japanese cuisine Circular sushi bar

y Happ

hour

12:00 - 17:00

All week!

sushi Buffet Eat all you want 60zł per person 17:00 - 22:00 70zł per person

POLISH BAZAR 1838 Set in the historic building that once housed (and will again someday, according to rumours) the Hotel Bazar, the name of this smart restaurant honours both the building and the year it was built. Looking far pricier from the outside than it actually is, the food scores well in the price to quality ratio, and is served by a friendly English-speaking staff. Along with imaginative interpretations of typical Polish dishes you’ll find pastas, salads and a variety of original dishes. Definitely a place to impress without buckling the credit card, though you may have to protect the plastic from the exclusive shops nearby. QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 222 68 64, www. bazar1838.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. €€€. UBW CHŁOPSKIE JADŁO Anyone who has set foot in Poland before will have most likely eaten in Chłopskie Jadło - a national chain which offers good old Polish grub at a reasonable price. This new Poznań location nails the formula, and trademark touristapproved standards like various types of pierogi, hearty cutlets, and sour rye soup in bread are as good here as you’ll find anywhere. The interior is also refreshingly modern, while retaining some folksy motifs, and a playground for

FREE DELIVERY WITHIN 5 KM FOR ORDERS OVER 100 ZŁ

ul. Kramarska 15, www.zindo.pl reservation (61) 853-01-78 poznan.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants kids makes this a good option for families. As is the case with most Polish restaurants, you’ll be leaving extremely filled with a smile on your face and a willingness to come back.QF‑7, ul. Fredry 12, tel. (+48) 72 510 05 25, www. chlopskiejadlo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. €€. TUW

Duck with dumplings and red cabbage

Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from the Franciszkańska street) tel. (+48) 618 53 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl

ul Garbary 54 +48 61 851 99 70

Typical Polish Cuisine Slow Food Vegan Vegetarian Eco products enu Also gluten free m 60 Poznań In Your Pocket

HYĆKA While many restaurants in Poznań serve traditional Wielkopolska duck (served with cabbage, apples, and dumplings) and pyry z gzikiem (potatoes with cottage cheese), Hyćka is the most reliable spot to sample a wider array of regional eats, including czernina (duck blood soup), grey dumplings (made with shredded potatoes), ‘szagówki’ dumplings, and the namesake hyćka, an elderflower cordial (also served in lemonade form). Though the decor isn’t spectacular and there are better places to eat in Śródka, it’s still worth keeping this place on your radar if you’re after very authentic Poznań fare.QL‑6, Rynek Śródecki 17, tel. (+48) 535 04 50 35, www.hycka.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00. Mon 11:00 - 20:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€. T6W NA WINKLU Plebeian boiled pierogi with meat or cheese and potatoes can be had in countless restaurants in Poznań, but Śródka’s Na Winklu (On the Corner) goes beyond, focusing on baked dumplings instead. Hide away in their small but hip interior and sample creations with unorthodox ingredients like dried tomatoes and mozzarella, liver and apple, or Mexican-style ground beef.QL‑6, ul. Śródka 1, tel. (+48) 796 14 50 04. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€. TU6W OBERŻA POD DZWONKIEM Resembling a traditional mountain lodge, ‘Under the Bell’ is bursting with giant timber beams, beautiful 200-year-old wooden furniture, rusty machinery, old pots and pans, piles of dusty books - even the barstools are fashioned out of saddles. It all contributes to a congenial rustic atmosphere, and while the menu focuses on traditional Polish fare with mouth-watering renditions of classics such as sour rye soup, duck with cabbage and dumplings, beef cheeks, and beef tartare, the philosophy of the kitchen is hardly the throwback that the interior suggests; all dishes are gluten free and organic, and there are even vegan options. A ‘tapas set’ of their most popular dishes is available on request, and 18zł lunch is served daily between 14:00 and 18:00.QI‑7, ul. Garbary 54, tel. (+48) 61 851 99 70, www.oberza.com.pl. Open 14:00 - 22:00. Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. €€. TU6W OSKOMA Oskoma is the lair of Top Chef Poland finalist Adam Adamczak, who cooks up seasonally-changing, gourmet ‘new Polish’ dishes. Recently on the menu were roe tartare with acorn crackers, wild strawberry mustard, and beech tree leaves; beetroot pierogi with goat cheese, smoked trout caviar, buttermilk, dill, and rosehips; boar cheek coulibiac with beetroot, smoked potato, plum, and venison sauce; and much much more, all of which made

Restaurants us salivate intensely. Pair your meal with a glass of fine red from Oskoma’s extensive wine list and enjoy a refined evening in this modern, understated Jeżyce eatery.QD‑6, ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. (+48) 728 44 21 65, www.oskoma. pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. €€€. TW POD NIEBIENIEM One of the best options on the Old Town Square (generally not the place to dine if you want to retain your street cred), Pod Niebieniem serves Polish food with a contemporary twist and actually caters to vegans - score. Certified by the Wielkopolska Culinary Heritage Network and awarded at various food festivals, they pride themselves on their Hereford beef tartare, Zielenica trout, and traditional chicken soup. A nice wine list rounds out the offer.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 64/65, tel. (+48) 604 69 70 44, www.pod-niebieniem.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. €€. TB6WH RATUSZOVA One of the longest-running establishments in town, and with good reason. Located right on the main square, Ratuszova serves up a vast array of healthy and modern seasonal dishes using the innovative sous vide method. If the beautiful and unique interior doesn’t impress you (and it should) then the menu surely will. Prepare to indulge yourself with classics such as steak, roast duck with dumplings, borscht, sour rye soup, pierogi, fresh fish, and other Polish standards. A perfect spot to spoil yourself.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 55, tel. (+48) 61 851 05 13, www.ratuszova.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TB6W RESTAURACJA BAMBERKA A long-standing restaurant squirrelled away in the complex of buildings at the centre of the town square. Step in and you’ll find stained glass panels, floral touches, and a strong European menu that includes several local dishes. The pierogi are excellent.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 61 852 99 17, www.bamberka.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. €€. TBW RYNEK Sheraton’s newest upscale dining offering is Rynek (The Main Square), which will open in May 2019 with a spread of glammed-up Polish cuisine; and knowing these folks (who are also responsible for Someplace Else), it’s bound to be good. Stardard buffet breakfast will make an appearance Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30 and weekends 7:30-11:00.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00. Open 06:30 - 24:00. Sat 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 07:30 - 24:00. WIEJSKIE JADŁO Wiejskie Jadło is just what you expect from a Polish restaurant - a warm wooden interior, bustling staff, and big decent portions of hearty grub. We enjoyed the żurek soup and after gut-busting sausages, it’s good we didn’t have far to go - they’re located just off the market square.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from ul. Franciszkańska), tel. (+48) 61 853 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€. TU B6W poznan.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants YEŻYCE KUCHNIA Yeżyce Kuchnia offers the perfect opportunity to feel like “part of the scene” and mingle with Poznan’s young, local in-crowd. The cool common room/caff-style decor might have a bit of a weird commie vibe, but combine that with an ever-changing menu of European classics and reimagined local grub and you’ll soon see why this place is a Jeżyce district favorite. During the summer months, shade-totting hipsters sit in the tiny outdoor garden sipping drinks and fiddling with their iphones. QB‑6, ul. Szamarzewskiego 17 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 663 05 06, www.yezycekuchnia.pl. Open 10:00 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €€. TB 6W

SCANDINAVIAN LARS, LARS & LARS With a menu featuring mouth-watering seasonal options such as goose ravioli with oyster mushrooms, fish goulash with mussels and prawns, and ‘sticky wingers’ with sweetpotato fries, blue cheese dip, and salsa, we were hard pushed to actually make a final choice on what meal to settle for. Scandinavian restaurant Lars, Lars & Lars is situated in the swanky City Park complex (a brisk 10 minute walk from the Sheraton and Mercure hotels) and well worth a visit. A bright and airy interior greets you as you enter and the smart but informal surroundings provide a great atmosphere for chatting to other diners as you indulge in your chosen dish.QA‑9, ul. Wojskowa 4, tel. (+48) 665 50 98 95, www.larslarslars.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Mon 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €€€€. T6W

SEAFOOD RESTAURACJA MOMO At Momo pasta dishes, duck, steak, and salads are all on offer, but it’s the fresh seafood that really stands out. The specialty is the 80zł seafood plate filled with mussels, calamari, baby squid, and prawns, but the chef creates new delightful and imaginative dishes daily, with the first page of the menu changed each morning. Of the two rooms to choose from, we prefer the smaller and cosier one, but many diners will no doubt prefer to keep an eye on the open kitchen. In the warm season, you can also sit out on a terrace hidden behind the building.QI‑7, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 501 41 51 36, www.momolovebite.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. €€€. T6W

THAI THAI THAI From fresh oysters, monkfish in red curry, and crispy duck, to classics like pad thai, green curry, and mango with sticky rice, this high-end Thai chain prepares veritable Southeast Asian feasts in a refined interior with dark wood, floral lattices, and Buddha ornaments. Top the experience off 62 Poznań In Your Pocket

with a bottle of fine red, or try the 35zł lunches, served from 12:00 till 16:00 on weekdays. QA‑9, ul. Wojskowa 4, tel. (+48) 885 19 98 85, www.thaithai.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€€. W WHY THAI FOOD & WINE Why Thai, why not? This fresh, cool, and comfortable modern restaurant refuses to bow down to the standard ‘silk road’ school of Asian interior design. An absolute insistence on using fresh ingredients, unpolluted by MSG or other flavour enhancing poisons, guarantees the dishes have a light and natural taste. The well-conceived menu is neither overly long nor cryptically complicated. Our go-to is lamb in massaman curry, but for something a little different give the ped phalo with sous vide duck a go. If you’re particularly nosy and need to know what the Thai cooks are up to try to be seated in the smaller area of the restaurant with its glass-fronted view into the kitchen.QI‑7, ul. Kramarska 7, tel. (+48) 61 818 29 11, www.whythai.pl. Open 12:00 23:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. T6W

VEGETARIAN FALLA Falafel bowls so good, they make us want to weep. From the assorted pickles to the creamy hummus to the highly addictive seasoned pita bread, Falla churns out dishes that are not only expertly prepared, but also beautifully presented. First-timers will be wise to go for Fatima’s Hand, an impressive assortment of Falla’s best creations, which actually does come in the shape of a hand. Also on the menu: seasonal dishes taking advantage of whatever Polish greengrocers currently have to offer, wraps, shakshouka, Turkish ayran, cocktails, and more. All this in a warm and stylish interior with industrial elements, squirrelled away in Poznań’s hip Jeżyce district. Recommended.QB‑6, ul. Wawrzyniaka 19, tel. (+48) 576 95 04 73. Open 12:00 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. €€. TU6W GREEN WAY A chain of budget vegetarian restaurants that are a Polish success story. Often packed with students who know a good deal when they see one, find a well prepared and generous range of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free dishes, including excellent pancakes and juices.QD‑7, ul. Zeylanda 6, tel. (+48) 61 843 40 27, www.greenway.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. €. T6 WYPAS Widely regarded as Poz’s best vegan haunt, Wypas is known for heaping plates of “a bit of everything”; choose your adventure from Japanese, Middle Eastern, Mexican, Polish, or Spanish - or perhaps a nice ol’ bowl of ramen or tom kha soup. Bring your eating pants (trousers for you Brits) and wrestle local plant-eaters for seats at this below-ground hole-in-the-wall.QB‑6, ul. Jackowskiego 38, tel. (+48) 796 14 41 15. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Mon 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. €€. T6

Nightlife

One of the many fancy creations at Twelve Cocktails (p.68).

Poznań bars are flexible - no matter what the official closing times are, most bars and pubs will stay open until the last customer has stumbled out. Most night spots are concentrated around the Old Town Square, but also check out ul. Nowowiejskiego (G‑6) and ul. Taczaka (F/G‑8) - both of which draw students in droves. If you don’t see it listed here, visit our website - poznan.inyourpocket. com - for reviews of almost every place in town, and the opportunity to leave your comments about all of them. Below are a few suggestions depending on what you might be looking for:

LADS If you need to catch the match, Poz has a rather classy sports bar in the Sheraton’s Someplace Else (p.68). Ministerstwo Browaru (p.67) emphasises plenty of obscure beers (including their own) for connoisseurs, while Brovaria (p.65) has excellent lagers brewed right on-site. Keep the night going in Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa (p.67), a cheap latenight eatery on the Rynek that will help you offset your hangover with piles of white sausage and pickled herring; it’s also a great place to meet the locals. In the summer, check out the city’s many beer gardens (p.68).

SPLURGE The best cocktails in Poznań are found in Twelve Cocktails (p.68) and Bar Susznia (p.65), with the latter conveniently situated close to one of the most exclusive danceterias in town - SQ (p.70). If your poison is whisky, look no further than the upscale Dram: Whisky Explorers Bar (p.66).

COUPLES Another vote for Twelve Cocktails (p.68) and Bar Susznia (p.65), the two best destinations for seductive cocktails. Those who prefer wine should check out Casa de Vinos (p.69) and Wino na Kieliszki (p.70), and if it’s entertainment you’re after, head to Blue Note Jazz Club (p.70), which attracts great international performers to serenade your better half.

SQUARE With so many options, Poz’s Rynek can be overwhelming. Without doubt the most popular place is Brovaria (p.65), which regularly sees people queuing for tables in order to enjoy the in-house brewed beers. Of course it’s impossible not to mention Pacha (p.70) here - the legendary Ibiza club which has brought its international cred and celebrity crowds to Poz; good luck getting in. For the plebs, it’s the ever-popular Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa (p.67), of course. 64 Poznań In Your Pocket

ALTERNATIVE Catch an underground concert or an obscure film screening at the cultural peculiarity that is Pies Andaluzyjski (p.70), participate in the Polish craft beer obsession at Piwna Stopa (p.67) and Ministerstwo Browaru (p.67), party with hipsters at the riverside shipping-container extravaganza KontenerART (p.68), check out street art at Peryskop Garden (p.66), or try a self-serve wine bar concept at Wino na Kieliszki (p.66).

Nightlife SYMBOL KEY N Credit cards not accepted 6 Animal friendly U Facilities for the disabled E Live music X Smoking room available

W Wi-fi connection

B Outside seating

I Fireplace

BARS & PUBS BAR SUSZNIA Whoa, if there’s one place that keeps leaving an impact it’s the Blow Up. Their bar is the final word in industrial chic, with metal floors, exposed brickwork, and ceilings that stretch to the clouds. The artwork is mad, and deliberately messes with your head, as do the molecular cocktails, truly the work of a scientific hand. An in-house cigar lounge and extensive selection of wines complete the look; it’s not often we attach the word unmissable to a venue, so take note and visit.QG‑9, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 91, www.blowuphall5050.com. Open 17:00 - 01:00. XUW

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App BROVARIA Brovaria feels an integral part of Poznań life, and it’s certainly become established as the main expat haunt since the demise of Dom Vikingów. Yet while it feels an ingrained piece of Poznań one look at the design reveals a modern, industrial space, one where steel and glass combine to create a sharp looking area that looks as edgy now as when it first opened. However, coming here to admire the interiors would be missing the point; this place is all about beer, namely the excellent house lagers that are brewed out back in the copper vats. Here’s one of the best microbreweries in Poland, quite possibly the best: enjoy it.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Open 10:00 01:00. W COOLIOZUM We were a little sceptical at the beginning but this place is unquestionably Poznań’s best sports bar. This isn’t the dark, divey venue you may be used to, rather a large modern space involving ice white sofas and a blue-lit bar; TVs aside, other bonuses include around 120 beers, as well as foosball and a few poker tables which seem to have a steady flow of customers. Head through the archway at no. 45 and find it down some stairs on your left.QG‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 45, tel. (+48) 783 48 76 91, www.cooliozum.pl. W poznan.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife DRAM: WHISKY EXPLORERS BAR NEW Yo ho ho and a bottle of whisky! Put on your explorer’s hat and set sail for the famed world of aged spirits. This classy, leather-heavy bar just off the main square offers not just a great selection of upscale alcohol (including fancy cocktails), but also open and private tasting sessions, live music, gourmet appetisers (like ash-coated cheese with apricot preserves and grissini), and food pairing advice. Those overwhelmed by choice will do well to try one of the two seasonal tasting sets, comprising three distinct types of whisky each. QH‑7, Stary Rynek 92, tel. (+48) 739 90 31 97, www.dram.bar. Open 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. EWY FORT COLOMB Fort Colomb, part of the inner ring of old Prussian fortifications, sometimes gets overlooked on account of its location – a bit out of the old town and closer to the main train station - but it really shouldn’t. During the summer, we take every opportunity to get away from the hustle, bustle, and loud drunks of the main square and hide away in the leafy garden of this splendidly historic building, located right in Park Marcinkowskiego.QF‑8, ul. Powstanców Wielkopolskich, tel. (+48) 609 99 02 82, www.fortcolomb. pl. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. XBEW

PERYSKOP GARDEN

Photo by Artur Nowicki

Anyone who has spent an appreciable amount of time wandering around Poznań will no doubt be familiar with Pan Peryskop, AKA the Watcher, a loveable oneeyed maverick created by street artist Noriaki. Well, this is one place where the little dude can feel fully at home, safe from municipal workers’ paint rollers and power washes - Peryskop Garden, and its twin indoor venue Peryskop (ul. Dominikańska 7, I-6/7), have been designed around their namesake character, with the needs of local hipsters and cool hunters firmly in mind. There are regular music parties and concerts, a more than satisfactory selection of craft beer, and even Peryskop’s own brew, Peryskop Bro. A must for street art lovers. QI‑6, ul. Szewska 8, tel. (+48) 519 16 14 91. Open Thu 19:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00, Sun 19:00 - 02:00. BE6W 66 Poznań In Your Pocket

#HASHTAG Hashtag hashtag? Okay then. Tailor-made for the 2010’s social media crowd, this Old Town establishment serves up #trendycocktails and #funkyshots to post on your @ instagram account, #housebeats to tweet about, and #interiordecor touches straight from pinterest. Just don’t get too rambunctious, or you’ll have to untag yourself from unflattering facebook pictures the next day. QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 7, tel. (+48) 570 88 12 97. Open 15:00 02:00. Wed 15:00 - 03:00, Thu 15:00 - 03:00, Fri 15:00 05:00, Sat 15:00 - 05:00. E6W HOLA HOLA The current ‘place to be’ on ul. Wrocławska, Hola Hola is swarmed by loud revellers the minute the sun sets on a weekend night. You can’t miss it when walking along Poznań’s party street, and if you like to drink in the centre of action, this might just be for you (if not, consider checking out their less crowded basement). The hip-n-cool checklist gets all checks: trendy light fixtures, exposed brick, and drinks served in mason jars are basically obligatory these days.QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 10. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Thu 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. W ISTNY WINE TAPAS BEER Refined but mercifully laid back (leave that tie at home), ISTNY offers a selection of 11 wines, 11 beers, and 2 ciders - all on tap - in a hip, industrial interior. Make sure to grab an assortment of tapas, which include pickled garlic cloves, Turkish brine cheese, prosciutto, chorizo, jamón serrano, and olives.QH‑8, ul. Podgórna 12, tel. (+48) 606 61 04 30. Open 18:00 - 24:00. Fri 18:00 - 02:00, Sat 18:00 02:00. Closed Sun. 6W

Nightlife MIEJSCÓWKA Once the city’s most representative street, Św. Marcin has long been a snooze lane crammed with mediocre establishments you’d hurry past on your way to the main square. Luckily, the tide is starting to turn with the addition of increasingly recommendation-worthy restaurants and bars - and here’s one. Very ‘current’ what with the neons, exposed brick, and Pinteresty glassware, Miejscówka might not be the most original, but it does earn our seal of approval, and probably Instagram’s as well. The target group here is the more hipster types, so expect lots of whimsical cocktails and colourful shots.QG‑8, ul. Święty Marcin 29. Open 18:00 - 02:00. W MINISTERSTWO BROWARU One of our favourite haunts for Polish craft beers; find AleBrowar brews like Black Hope and Rowing Jack on tap alongside the establishment’s own Ministerstwo beers and top-rated European names like Delirium Tremens. If we had it our way all pubs would be run by folks as knowledgeable as these fellows, who’ve boiled it down to wood benches and great beer. If you’re up before it’s afternoon, you’ll find the equally awesome Minister Cafe upstairs. Second pub localization at ul. Wroniecka 16.QG‑8, ul. Ratajczaka 34, tel. (+48) 601 53 37 47. Open 16:00 - 02:00. W PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA The newspapered interior and nostalgic communist-era concept here are exactly the same as their dozens of locations all over the country (including a second in Poz at ul. Wrocławska 8, C-2): dirt cheap booze and dirt cheap grub like pickled herring and cold pork in jelly to soak up the aforementioned booze. This place is packed at all hours, though it’s best sampled during the later stages of the evening when you’re guaranteed a right assortment of characters who are happy to spill out their life story for the price of a 4.50zł beer. Very ‘Polish’ and a welcome alternative to some of the Rynek’s more expensive and snobby bars. Karaoke nights take place Mon, Tue, Thu, and Sun 20:00-02:00.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 85, tel. (+48) 791 85 95 55. Open 09:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 05:00. UW PIWNA STOPA Heralded for its broad selection - around 200 bottled beers and 16 on tap - Piwna Stopa is wildly popular with beer connoisseurs who don’t give two craps about trendy light fixtures or the instagrammability of the interior decor. Not that it’s bad: there’s a certain Czech tavern feel what with the old-fashioned wooden chairs, wall lamps, and framed miscellanea, and live bands play jazz, blues, and rock during the warm season. Their leafy summer garden is highly recommendable, as are the smoked-sausage hot dogs and other meaty treats (there’s even venison!).QI‑6, ul. Szewska 7, tel. (+48) 793 90 86 00, www.piwnastopa.pl. Open 15:00 - 24:00. Thu 15:00 - 01:00, Fri 13:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. B6W

SHOT FOR THE MOON!

THE BEST ROOF. BEST BARTENDERS. BEST COCKTAILS. BEST VIEW & SOUNDS. #twelvecocktails #skyisthelimit #roofparty Chillout at the highest level. London atmosphere, global trends, Polish hospitality. Młyńska 12, Poznań | www.mlynska12.pl twelve@mlynska12.pl | 606 431 689

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Nightlife PRL PUB There’s two communist theme bars in Poznań, and this place has the lower profile, the non-existent marketing budget, and a tiny entrance that’s easy to miss. But it’s certainly not second best, and if anything its underground chambers make it all the more convincing in its role as a hidden piece of history. Packed with memorabilia from the People’s Republic, and that includes pictures of Soviet icons and even a riot shield once used to suppress the striking proletaryat.QI‑6, ul. Żydowska 11 (entrance from ul. Mokra). Open 16:00 23:00. Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. X

BEER GARDENS

The leafy garden of Piwna Stopa

Beer gardens abound in Poznań, but some are better than others. The low-hanging fruit are located around the perimeter of the Old Town Square, but for leafier alternatives head to Fort Colomb (p.66), Piwna Stopa (p.67), the back of Stary Browar (p.31) where you can kick back in a deckchair, and the backyards of ul. Żydowska (p.29). Non-traditional al fresco drinking opportunities can also be found at KontenerART (just below) and Peryskop Garden (p.66).

KONTENERART

Open from May. One of Poznań’s most original spots, the seasonal KontenerART occupies a stretch of grass along the Warta River that makes finding the unusual venue feel like a drink-worthy achievement. Head down Ewangelicka (J-7) toward the Warta River and you may hear the clamouring of KontenerART before you see it. It’s worth the trouble - after all, where else can you drink in a stack of shipping containers surrounded by an artificial beach and “art” installations that stretch the definition of the word? One container operates as a stage, one as a bar, and the rest are filled with art projects that are more confusing than creative. Deck chairs and wooden pallets are the seating of choice at this hipster oasis, where no one is without a Grolsch and a pair of skinny jeans. Climb the stairs for a second-story seat that offers a view of the river and the ideal perch for people-watching.QK‑8, ul. Ewangelicka (on the Warta between Chrobrego and Rocha bridges), www.kontenerart.pl. Open 12:00 02:00. BE6W 68 Poznań In Your Pocket

PROLETARYAT So what if Stalin killed umpteen times more people than Hitler? Communism can be a hoot, at least it is if you’re drunk, so head to this commie bar and raise a glass to Uncle Joe. Quality local lager, 4zł vodka shots, and - of course an assortment of classic Eastern European drinking snacks like pickles and bread smeared with lard - ensure nights aren’t dull, and you’ll find this piece of socialist paradise decidedly stuffed with Cold War keepsakes and Iron Curtain mementos. Pride of place goes to Lenin, with his giant plaster head peering through the street-side window.QI‑7, ul. Wrocławska 9, tel. (+48) 508 17 36 08. Open 15:00 02:00. Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. B6W SOMEPLACE ELSE SPE is a natural born winner – few places are better geared to meet foreign demands, and while the prices are undoubtedly steep (do you expect anything else from the Sheraton?), it’s a place where foreigners and locals mix with seamless ease, chatting about travels while sports beam down from their 9 TVs. American in spirit, you’ll find Route 66 extras mingled with rock pics, a strong menu of Tex Mex, burgers, and steaks, as well as more whimsical touches such as a car bonnet bursting from the wall. Taking centre stage is a circular bar, the perfect base to chat to staff while they fix earthquake cocktails and velvet smooth Guinness. Happy hours commence at 16:00 on weekdays and noon (!) on the weekends, going until 20:00 in both cases.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UEWY TWELVE COCKTAILS & CO. Located in the svelte Młyńska 12 business centre, also home to The Time restaurant and Wino na Kieliszki wine bar, Twelve Cocktails offer mouthwatering signature creations like Sky High (with gin, peach liquor, orange, rosehip, and butterfly pea tea), Forget Me Not (vodka, blueberry liquor, cranberries, sparkling wine, and young barley), and Garden Pie (Cîroc vodka, gooseberry chutney, egg white, and vanilla bitters). For something truly special, check out their luxurious cocktails (120-150zł a pop) made with such extravagant ingredients as heather foam, glitter, and blueberry-agave caviar. The Piaf cocktail even comes served on an oldschool vinyl. QG‑6, ul. Młyńska 12, tel. (+48) 61 627 03 23, www.mlynska12.pl/twelve. Open Wed-Sat 19:00 - 02:00 only. XUEW

Nightlife UŁAN BROWAR Brewing up some decent craft beer to drink alongside regionally-inspired pub grub, Ułan is a new addition to the Poz’s City Park complex located in lovingly refurbished Ułan/Uhlan (Polish light cavalry) barracks. The military links might end at the name, but that makes no difference to those who come here to watch the big game with their mates, play some pool, or listen to the occasional standup. If that doesn’t sound so kid-friendly, you’re in for a surprise - the little ones get a play corner of their own, so take them along as you sample some local brews.QA‑10, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26, tel. (+48) 888 08 52 22, www. ulanbrowar.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. Thu 13:00 - 24:00, Fri 13:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00. TU6W WHISKEY IN THE JAR What with Stary Rynek being most people’s first port of call, it’s always good to have a bit of variety. Whiskey in the Jar ticks the box for ‘good-old-fashioned rock ‘n’ roll bar,’ but this isn’t your typical grubby rock pub - rather a classy joint serving steaks and burgers and killer cocktails guaranteed to leave your head spinning (Don’t believe us? See how many of their Jack Daniel’s Whiskey Jars you can work your way through in one sitting). Keep in mind that the kitchen closes at 23:30 Mon-Sat and 22:30 Sun.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 100, tel. (+48) 515 72 03 36, www.whiskeyinthejar.pl. Open 13:00 - 01:00. Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. BE6WY WHISKY BAR 88 Steal yourself away to the darkened surroundings of Whisky Bar in City Park where you will find the ideal conditions to sit back and enjoy one of well over 900 different types of the sainted liquid. Whether you’re looking for whiskey, whisky, or whatever it is in Japanese, you will not be disappointed with the elegantly backlit display cases holding some wonderful choices including some 25-year old single malts. Comfortable chairs and a modern take on an ‘open-fire’ complete the picture.QA‑9, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26A (City Park Hotel & Residence), tel. (+48) 888 32 18 88, www. whiskybar88.pl. Open 16:00 - 01:00. Sun 16:00 - 24:00. UEW

WINE BARS CASA DE VINOS Thirty seconds from bustling Półwiejska Street, Casa de Vinos wine bar serves as an ideal stop-off for those who know they deserve a relaxing glass of wine (or two) after a hard day of shopping and sightseeing. The friendly and knowledgeable staff are happy enough to talk you through the 300 plus bottles on display before offering you a comfy seat in which to enjoy your final choice. It’s small, it’s intimate and it makes for a perfect little place to sample some of the finest wines from around the globe. Keep your credit card at hand - you’ll be needing it when it comes to ordering a bottle or three to take back home. QH‑8, ul. Krysiewicza 5/2, tel. (+48) 61 815 28 26, www. casadevinos.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. W poznan.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife WINO NA KIELISZKI (WINE BY THE GLASS) The city’s first self-serve wine bar, ‘Wine by the Glass’ lets you pour your own vintage from a selection of forty. Just load up a pre-paid card by the bar, order a cheese board or some nice tapas, and enjoy your Dionysiac evening. Recommended. QG‑6, ul. Młyńska 12, tel. (+48) 61 627 03 00, www.mlynska12.pl. Open 18:00 - 24:00. Sat 18:00 - 01:30. Closed Mon, Sun. U6W

CLUBS CUBA LIBRE Set down a shadowy courtyard basement, Cuba Libre is a bouncy Latin venue replete with whitewashed walls, pics of Che, and wall space dedicated to an assortment of Cuban goodies. This place goes for detail, so much so that drinkers can even take a seat in one of those clapped-out vintage bangers you see pootling round the streets of Havana. The Fiesta Latino Fridays and Disco Latino Saturdays prove seriously popular.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. (+48) 61 855 23 44, www.cuba-libre.pl. Open 22:00 - 05:00. Fri 21:00 - 05:00, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. XEW CZARNA OWCA A local institution. Upstairs is a noisy wood-furnished bar, downstairs a hot labyrinthine club. Music is usually no more challenging than chart hits, though they do occasionally draw reputable DJ’s and a crowd hell-bent on tipping lots of booze down their gobholes.QH‑8, ul. Jaskółcza 13, tel. (+48) 537 67 47 57, www.klub-czarnaowca.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 21:00 - 05:00. X

LIVE MUSIC BLUE NOTE JAZZ CLUB A vast multi-level jazz club whose spangly interior has shades of 90s club tragedy written all over it. Don’t let that discourage you, however; this is a legendary venue that has hosted some of the biggest names in Polish and international jazz. Do check their website for what’s cooking first - this space has been known to be rented out for teen hip-hop nights and other hoodedtop twaddle, and if there’s no concert scheduled then they aren’t open.QF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 79, tel. (+48) 61 851 04 08, www.bluenote.poznan.pl. Open 45 min before event; check website. E PIES ANDALUZYJSKI “Theatre / music / vodka” - this is how ‘An Andalusian Dog’ describes itself in short. Named after the 1929 surrealist short film by Luis Buñuel and Salvador Dalí, this eccentric den supplements its already alluring atmosphere with concerts, workshops, and performances.QG‑6, ul. Nowowiejskiego 17, tel. (+48) 509 68 18 71. Open 18:00 - 24:00. Fri 18:00 03:00, Sat 18:00 - 03:00, Sun 18:00-24:00. Closed Mon. XEW 70 Poznań In Your Pocket

CZEKOLADA Credit crunch you say? Not in Poznań, people. While the rest of the world staggers around like a shot pig the denizens of Poznań are living the high life in places like Czekolada. To call this place sexy would be a disservice; this is the final word in design drinking and the sort of cocktail spot/lounge club the city deserves. Huge chandeliers, shiny surfaces, and black finishes lend a real svelte look to this spot, and you’d be a fool to turn up looking like anything less than a celebrity. To make a reservation, head to their website of facebook.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 18, tel. (+48) 665 55 08 91, www. klubczekolada.pl. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only 22:00 05:00. XW PACHA Pacha? As in, the world’s most famous clubbing franchise Pacha? In Poznań? We’re as shocked as you, but yep, those cherries are real, and this is the only Pacha in Central Europe - validating Poznań’s growing international rep as a prime party city. Decked out in plush design and pumping out house music for the masses, Pacha is a divorcee’s paradise and one which is attracting big crowds looking to dance away those working-week blues. Will its reputation be enough to pull in the punters from Warsaw, Wrocław, and Berlin? Time will tell...QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. (+48) 519 30 02 60, www.pachapoznan.com. Open Wed, Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 05:00. X PROJEKT LAB Inspired by the Berlin party scene - in fact, conceived as a direct result of the to-be owners’ wild night at techno club Berghain - Projekt LAB is an experimental space and underground music venue that proved an immense hit as soon as it opened doors in 2013. The music of choice here is electronic and all sorts of alternative beats, often supplied by international DJs and bands. Brave the long entry lines and you’ll be rewarded with a true multimedia experience.QI‑6, ul. Grochowe Łąki 5, tel. (+48) 731 47 71 02, www.projektlab.pl. Open Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 08:00 only. XBW SQ Dance with the fittest and the hippest in SQ, by far the most envied dance space in town. Silly haircuts and expensive wardrobes abound here, and they’re here for the music not the design – DJs arrive from all across Poland to play here, sometimes even further. The interior isn’t all that, but the nights are legend, and you’ll find no better place to puff the chest out and behave like a big time Bertie.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 663 78 65 47, www.sqklub. pl. Open Wed 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00 only. XE

Read more reviews online: poznan.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

S K A E T S BEST L

OL R ’ n ’ K C O R &

ROCK’N’ROLL BEAT IN THE HEART OF CITY

J AT HE WHIS KEY IN T

ORIGINAL TASTE BETTER

Whiskey in the Jar®

TOP QUALITY STEAKS of the best tenderloin in the world. ORIGINAL JARS based on Whiskey. LIVE MUSIC 4 days a week.

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Leisure

The Palm House

Whether you’re looking to take a break from the bustle of the Rynek or just want an excuse to stretch your legs, Poznań offers a multitude of parks, green spaces and recreational activities to consider. First and foremost are the 89-hectare Citadel Park (see p.37) - full of leafy promenades, historical monuments and museums, and Lake Malta (p.40) - one of the most unique urban recreation areas on the continent. As such, we’ve devoted a separate section especially for all of the attractions and activities around Lake Malta’s shores, including fantastic family attractions like the New Zoo and the Maltese Baths water park and spa. For even more ideas, use the listings below.

INDOOR ATTRACTIONS BLUBRY6D If you ever thought of dropping some acid with your young children, here’s the legal way to do it. Put on a pair of 3D glasses and immerse yourself in a hallucinatory, brightneon labyrinth of spastic trees, deranged mushrooms, and dizzying miscellany while listening to a narration about two Poznań legends (offered in English, Polish, German, and Spanish). Do try to stay focused, as the staff will quiz you at the end of each room - the punishment for failing, presumably, is to leave you forever wandering the LSD maze from hell. The whole experience lasts around 30 minutes, but you’re almost guaranteed to lose all sense of space and time.QI‑6, ul. Wroniecka 6, tel. (+48) 61 307 04 46, www.blubry6d.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. From May Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 17/15zł. U 72 Poznań In Your Pocket

MK BOWLING At first glance, MK Bowling looks like a cross between an American diner and a night club - mainly down to the red booths, large bar, and larger choice of drinks including the very American option of ordering beer by the pitcher. It’s on the lanes (seven in total) where you’ll find the real fun, however, and there are plenty of daily promotions, including student discounts Mon-Thu until 17:00 (before which bowling is only 40zł/hour).QG‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 24 (Galeria MM), tel. (+48) 61 222 50 51, www.mkbowling.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. Prices vary depending on day of the week and hour of day: 1hr of lane time costs 69-99zł. W PALM HOUSE (PALMIARNIA) Built in waves beginning in 1910, the Palm House in Wilson Park began as a small showcase for palm trees and cacti and is now one of the largest of its kind in Europe. After the Red Army liberated Poznań in 1945 the heavily damaged Palm House lost almost all of its tropical plants, though quickly restocked and reopened again in 1946. Today the interior is filled with 1100 species of plants from all over the globe and 170 species of fish - including some of the largest goldfish we’ve ever seen. While all of the minimal signage is in Polish and Latin, it doesn’t inhibit your visit if the goal is awe. The soaring greenhouses include plants from savannahs, deserts, and tropical climates (and the temperature reflects that; be prepared to shed some layers when visiting this humid site) interspersed with tanks that host creatures like iguanas

Leisure and giant snakes. The lone non-greenhouse space is reserved for temporary exhibits and always worth a peek. QC‑9, ul. Matejki 18 (Łazarz), tel. (+48) 61 865 89 07, www.palmiarnia.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. April Open 09:00 - 19:00. May Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 10/7zł. Children under 3 free. Y

OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS & PARKS BOTANICAL GARDEN Located just below the southeast shore of Lake Rusałka, Poznań’s lovely Botanical Garden boasts a vast 22 hectares and over 7,000 varieties of plants from almost every kind of climate and ecosystem in the world. Impeccably maintained, the garden is both a recreational and educational park owned by the Adam Mickiewicz University in Poznań, and its history dates back to 1922 when it was only a 6 hectare plot. The park includes several greenhouses, a snazzy two-storey exhibition pavilion with a gallery, shop, and cafe, several enormous standing stones they took great trouble to bring here, and a lovely ballerina fountain designed by Margaret Węcławska - a graduate of the Poz Academy of Fine Arts. Absolutely worth visiting on a nice day, though note that it is quite popular on weekends. Getting there is a complex cocktail of trams and buses, so just take a cab.Qul. Dąbrowskiego 165 (Ogrody), tel. (+48) 61 829 20 13, www.obuam.robia.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. April Open 09:00 - 19:00. May Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission free. U

SPA & BEAUTY CENTRUM RELAKSU VASCO DA GAIA Vasco da Gaia prides itself on having Poznań’s only isolation tank (you know, one of those floatation tanks with warm water and epsom salt), but their entire offer reveals quite a holistic approach to relaxation: there are Russian sauna treatments with Siberian herb extracts, a selection of massages (some involving chocolate and honey), a Moroccan hammam experience, weight loss programmes, physiotherapy, and psychologists specialising in stress management. All in all, if you’re in need of some serious relaxation, this is the place to try.Qul. Piłsudskiego 104, tel. (+48) 796 42 16 70, www.vascodagaia.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun. THAI SMILE MASSAGE Anyone looking to escape the raucous buzz of Poz’s city centre could do a lot worse than relaxing with a fine massage. A peaceful, modern environment (with English speaking staff ) only five minutes from the market square, Thai Smile Massage is an ideal place to forget about the day’s woes while you let one of the authentic Thai massage therapists work their wonders. Two rooms to choose from (massage room and the oil room) and a cup of tea afterwards is enough for the IYP staff to give this place the thumbs up.QG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17/4, tel. (+48) 727 90 52 96, www.thai-smile.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.

THE OLD ZOO

Photo by Radosław Maciejewski. Courtesy of City of Poznań

One of Poland’s oldest zoos, the Old Zoo dates to 1874 and still has some picturesque old pavilions, but most of the critters have been carted off to the New Zoo on the other side of the city, and the Old Zoo has largely been reshaped as a public park. There is, however, a modern Reptile House here, where you can watch Komodo dragons strutting their stuff, pythons slithering, and caimans splashing around. It’s worth the admission price, and enjoyable to visit without the exhaustion and crowds of the New Zoo.QD‑7, ul. Zwierzyniecka 19, tel. (+48) 61 848 08 47, www.zoo.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. From April 09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission free; 8/6zł for the Reptile House. Y poznan.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

Pamiątki z Poznania (p.78).

Yes, that’s a Burberry store you see in Poznań. And Armani. Even Versace. You can wander through the vast, awardwinning Stary Browar mall or the new Poznań City Centre spending złoty until you’ve solved the European debt crisis, but if you’re bringing gifts back to show your loved ones what a trip to Poznań is like, a Burberry bag made in London won’t cut it. That’s why we’ve made suggestions below for where to get gifts for darling that actually say, “I went to Poland.” You’ll find more local gift ideas and direct buying opportunities online in the Poland IYP Shop: iyp. me/polandshop.

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but since March 2018 new regulations that will eventually ban Sunday trading in Poland entirely have gone into effect. Phased in gradually, in 2018 trade has been allowed on only the first and last Sundays of each month, forcing shops to close on the intervening Sundays. Beginning in 2019, trade will only be allowed on the last Sunday of each month. There are only a few exemptions to the rule, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets and souvenir shops (oh thank god). Note that the Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep only on those Sundays when trade is allowed. The following is a list of Sundays when shops are allowed to be open: March 31 | April 14, 28 | May 26 | June 30 74 Poznań In Your Pocket

ALCOHOL BASILIUM A shop for serious beer lovers, Basilium stocks around 150 different types of the stuff, giving you a good chance to take home a few quality local flavours with a bit more character than the mass-produced brews found stocked in supermarkets and local chain stores. The friendly staff are more than happy to go through the choices with anyone looking for advice before making their purchase. QI‑7, ul. Woźna 21, tel. (+48) 790 33 37 56. Open 16:00 - 24:00. Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Occasionally closed on Mondays - check their facebook for up-todate info.

AMBER & JEWELLERY FREY WILLE Fine jewellery and fashion accessories inspired by masters like Klimt and Mucha. Frey Wille boutique hails from Austria, and what sets it apart from most places is that the items on offer are handmade; the philosophy of the boutique is to create works of art which are rooted in the humanism, pieces which are bourne from an artistic love and passion, indeed, made by artists themselves. What’s more, much of the jewellery undergoes an enamelling process, binding fine glass onto metal, which revolutionised Frey Wille’s works from 1981 onwards to offer the fine pieces you see today. QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 13 94, www.frey-wille.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Shopping GALERIA YES YES jewellery stores can be found throughout Poland, but this location on ul. Paderewskiego sets itself apart by being an exclusive gallery, curated by YES founder Magda Kwiatkiewicz herself, showcasing the highest achievements in artistic jewellery by Polish designers. As such, it has played a significant role in the shape and direction of the Polish jewellery market for over a decade, and in addition to their lovely commercial display cases, the exhibits held here are always worth a peek.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 851 58 48, www.galeriayes.pl. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. LILOU Pendants, charms, and delicate chains abound in this boutique-y jewellery shop staffed by immaculately-attired ladies keen to assist and advise potential buyers. Glamorous but not intimidating, this is the place to browse miniature shiny trinkets during an afternoon shopping break. Also located at the Posnania Shopping Centre (ul. Pleszewska 1, 10:00-22:00 Mon-Sat, 10:00-21:00 on ‘shopping Sundays’. QH‑8, ul. Półwiejska 8/1-2, tel. (+48) 797 33 43 52, www.lilou.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. ŚWIAT BURSZTYNU Major amber retailer and wholesaler with over 25 years of experience to their name - that’s a lot in a country that only returned to a market economy in 1989. Now with two locations, the second being the behemoth Posnania Shopping Centre (p.78).QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 66 88/(+48) 607 07 07 33, www.desta-amber.com. Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. W. KRUK Poland’s oldest and most revered chain of jewellery stores caters to men and women with tastes that range from classic amber pendants and Tag Heuer watches to modern designs of their own making. Also at Stary Browar (ul. Półwiejska 42, G-4), Posnania (ul. Pleszewska 1, M-10), and Galeria Malta (ul. Maltańska 1, J-4).QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 2, tel. (+48) 661 98 05 61, www.wkruk. pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

ART & ANTIQUES ANTYKWARIAT Solid collection of antiques collected by Piotr Sobisiak. On offer is furniture, porcelain, silver cutlery, pitchers, jewellery and other pre-war treasures.QG‑7, ul. Kantaka 10, tel. (+48) 61 851 88 10, www.gem-art.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. ANTYKWARIAT (ANTIQUE SHOP) Specialises in old toys, technological relics, pre-war postcards, and other special keepsakes.QI‑7, ul. Klasztorna 1, tel. (+48) 61 851 75 13. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. poznan.inyourpocket.com

Shopping MARKETS

ANTYKWARIAT NAUKOWY A vintage bookseller that rewards those who are patient enough to dig through boxes of old postcards, prints, and telegrams. It’s easy to lose track of time while meandering along the well-stocked shelves.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 3/5, tel. (+48) 61 852 63 12, www.antykwariat.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILM

Poznań’s open-air markets are the best places to get cheap local produce and some of the only places in the centre where you can buy vegetables that aren’t white or in jars. Add to that meats, cheeses, spices, baked goods, doorknobs, dog leashes, pagers, potholders and literally anything else you can think of and you’ve got yourself a nifty cultural experience as well. Practise your “Proszę” and point skills at any of the unique shopping environments listed below, and remember that haggling and attempting to pay with large bills will both be met with disdain. JEŻYCE MARKET One of Poznań’s most historic and centrally located markets is just west of the Old Town on historic Rynek Jeżycki. Established in 1891, this was once one of the city’s finest market squares, as evidenced by the faded glory of some of the intricate Art Nouveau facades on the tenement buildings that surround it. Lately the area has been going through a bit of a resurgence, and though the market itself may be a bit tatty and you can hardly expect English to be spoken or understood, the 400 merchant stalls here are still a good place to pick up fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as peruse clothing and other random goods you might be wiser not to take home. You certainly won’t beat the prices.QC‑6, Rynek Jeżycki, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open 06:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. WIELKOPOLSKA MARKET With Poznań’s historic main market square apparently not big enough, fruit and veg merchants have been relegated to this 1600 square metre plaza only a few minutes walk away. Renovated and generally more orderly than some of Poz’s other open-air markets, this is the best place for fresh produce in the Old Town. Among its 200 tent-covered stalls you’ll also find copious amounts of meat, cheese, nuts, and other food products, fresh-cut flowers, pots and pans, socks and sweatpants, sweets, screws, staplers, toilet scrubbers, and whatever else you can imagine.QH‑6, Pl. Wielkopolski, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open 06:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. 76 Poznań In Your Pocket

EMPIK This large store is a one-stop shop for foreign press and magazines (prices are gougey though), guidebooks, there’s a somewhat decent English-language book selection, CDs, DVD, video games and more. Find them in almost any Polish shopping mall. Also in Galeria Malta (M-9).QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 667 12 00, www.empik.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. VINYLGATE RECORDSTORE Worth seeking out, this is Poznań’s best music store - full of thousands of new and used vinyl records and CDs covering all genres, but also with an emphasis on more contemporary DJ-favoured sounds like techno, house, electronica, drum’n’bass, breakbeat, etc. Inside you’ll also find plenty of DJ and home stereo equipment, accessories for taking care of records, music merch and other gear that make the crew behind Vinylgate the leading ambassadors for the city’s vinyl revival.QF‑7, ul. Garncarska 3, tel. (+48) 501 72 77 97, www.vinylgate.eu. Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES KARTELL FLAGSTORE Combining creativity and functionality since 1949, this Milanese design company known for colorful plastic creations has spawned flagstores all over Europe, including our charming little city.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 816 27 14, www.kartellshop.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. MOLIERA 2 BAZAR POZNAŃSKI Located in the gorgeously renovated Bazar Hotel, this luxury fashion boutique features women’s clothing, shoes, and accessories from top designer brands like Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Kenzo, Burberry, Moncler, Manolo Blahnic, Jimmy Choo, Simonetta Ravizza, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Aquazzura, Balmain, Isabel Marant, and Alexander McQueen. Shop online to find even more swag and savings.QH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 10, tel. (+48) 61 855 19 54, www.Moliera2.com. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

@PoznanIYP

Shopping

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang. Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand. Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls. Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry.

POZNAŃ, Półwiejska 8/1-2 Street POSNANIA SHOPPING & LIFESTYLE, 1 Pleszewska Street lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

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Shopping RABARBAR Inspired by traditional Polish handicraft and designs, Rhubarb is now a country-wide chain selling modern women’s clothing with elements of embroidery and folksy patterns.QC‑6, ul. Kraszewskiego 17, tel. (+48) 885 55 22 85, www.rabarbar.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS CEPELIA A leading chain of souvenir shops selling native arts and handicrafts.QI‑7, ul. Klasztorna 21, tel. (+48) 61 852 58 14, www.cepelia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Sun. CITY INFORMATION CENTRE A wide selection of souvenirs connected with Poznań including lots of stuff with the most popular symbols of Poznań. Pick up t-shirts, cups, ornaments, post cards, and the like all associated with the head-banging goats for instance. You’ll also find the most popular selection of books and albums relating to Poznań, Wielkopolska, and Poland in foreign languages as well as locally produced art.QG‑7, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. (+48) 61 854 07 54, www.cim.poznan. pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Y HANDMADE For souvenirs which are both authentic and actually useful, hand-painted pottery is the way to go; easily recognisable across Poland, these beauties from the Bolesławiec Pottery Factory have a trademark look and a tradition dating back to the 14th century. We recommend skipping the tacky tourist kitsch and considering Handmade your one-stop-shop for gifts to bring back home. Whisper “IYP” to the cashier for a special 5% discount.QF‑7, ul. Mielżyńskiego 16, tel. (+48) 61 284 17 04. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PAMIĄTKI Z POZNANIA Souvenirs galore - magnets, t-shirts, postcards (oh the nostalgia), handicrafts, mugs, and wonderful Bolesławiec ceramics should take care of your most pressing souvenir needs.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 25A, tel. (+48) 517 59 41 38. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.

SHOPPING MALLS AVENIDA POZNAŃ Shopping ‘centres’ simply don’t get any more ‘central’ than this modern marvel located right next to Poznań’s impressive new train station (lovingly dubbed ‘the breadbox’); as such, it couldn’t possibly be better connected to public transport or easier to get to and from. Featuring over 200 retail spaces, including Media Markt, H&M, TK Maxx, Empik, and Peek & Cloppenburg, Avenida Pozań also offers plenty of cafes, restaurants, and fast food eateries, as well as a multi-level parking garage (parking up to 3h is free of charge). Opened in October 2013, if nothing else this mega-complex is worth checking out just to appreciate 78 Poznań In Your Pocket

how much Poznań has developed and progressed over the last several years. QE‑9, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 61 627 01 90, www.avenidapoznan.com. Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. FACTORY POZNAŃ This outlet centre, one of just a few establishments of this type in Europe, is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over other shopping malls. Recognisable names among the brands include Puma, Calzedonia, Desigual, Gino Rossi, 4F, Nike, Timberland, Guess, and more. To get here, take tram number 2 or 9 from ‘Pl. Wiosny Ludów’ (on ul. Strzelecka, H-8) to the terminus at ‘Dębiec’, then change to bus 610, getting off at ‘Luboń / Factory Outlet’ - or let jakdojade. pl figure out the optimal route for you.Qul. Dębiecka 1, Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 652 30 30, www.factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. GALERIA MALTA Located right next to Poznań’s Lake Malta, Galeria Malta is the largest retail and entertainment centre in western Poland with over 162,000 square metres of shopping and leisure opportunities. Opened in March 2009, Malta features a Multikino as well as an H&M, TK Maxx, Benneton, Tatuum, Pako Lorente, Guess, and Empik. Dining opportunities include Salad&Co and Costa Coffee. Trams 16, 17, and 18 all stop nearby (at either “Kórnicka” or “Baraniaka”).QN‑9, ul. Maltańska 1, tel. (+48) 61 658 10 22, www.galeriamalta. pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. GALERIA MM A shopping mall right in the city centre for all your shopping needs, be it clothes, a tall caramel frappuccino, make-up, or the sudden urge to go bowling. The location just can’t be beat - a five minute walk away from the Main Square, the Galeria MM is named after the two streets that intersect at its address, ul. Święty Marcin and Aleje Marcinkowskiego. Behind the eye-popping love-it-or-hate-it facade you’ll find around fifty popular stores.QG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 24, tel. (+48) 61 855 22 94, www.galeriamm.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. POSNANIA Poznań’s new shopping behemoth swung its doors open in late 2016 in a style so lavish, even Eva Longoria couldn’t keep away (yes, it’s not everyday that random Polish shopping malls manage to invite A-list celebrities). Inspired perhaps by the celebrated Stary Browar shopping complex, which manages to seamlessly blend retail space with creative contemporary art, Posnania collaborates with Pop-up Galerie 208 to integrate unique sculptures and installations into its layout. The most eye-catching of those is David Mesguich’s Lucie, the sculpture of a little girl symbolising the future, located outside near the main entrance. Oh, and the shopping? They’ve got brands like Forever 21, Guess, MAC, Sephora, Steve Madden, Pinko, and many more.QM‑10, ul. Pleszewska 1, tel. (+48) 61 628 65 27, www.posnania.eu. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

Shopping

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