Poznan In Your Pocket - November 2019 - February 2020 by Poland In Your Pocket

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Poznań City Guide Polish Milk Bars

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Enigma: Poznań’s WWII Codebreakers p.49

No. 54, November 2019 – February 2020

Christmas in Poland

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Contents

Poznań

Gearing up for the holidays at Poznań’s Christmas Fair (p.11). | © Krzysztof Borylo

Foreword

Feature Polish Milk Bars

Cafés

Regional Dishes

Restaurants

Events 10

Nightlife

Arrival & Transport

Shopping

Health & Services

Hotels

Index

Maps City Map City Centre Map

20 23

Sightseeing Stary Rynek Old Town Walking Tour Ostrów Tumski Citadel Park Lake Malta

26 32 38 41 44

Museums

Kids & Families

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Foreword Poznań slows down in the winter. Yes, there’s still Lake Malta (p.44) with its ice-skating rink, mini ski slope, and year round water park, but as temperatures dip, Poznaniaks increasingly hole up inside, warming themselves with mulled wine and mulled beer (p.72) or making their way through a backlog of cafes and restaurants that opened over the summer. This is the perfect time to get yourself thoroughly acquainted with the heavy regional cuisine (p.54), practice eating pączki (p.59) in preparation for Fat Thursday, and maybe even hop into a time machine in the form of a local milk bar, which we’ve written about extensively starting on p.6.

COVER STORY

And then there are the festivities. `Tis the holiday season, so you better believe that a Christmas Fair is in the works and, actually, Poznań does two. Spend your time bouncing between the Old Town Square Fair (p.12) and the larger Freedom Square Fair (p.11), which will even boast a Ferris wheel. But before that, Poznań will celebrate something more unusual: St. Martin’s Day (p.10), a holiday dedicated to the city’s favourite saint and an opportunity to eat an obscene number of St. Martin’s croissants (p.55).

Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com

Happy winter, and we hope you enjoy your stay in Poznań! Born in Upper Silesia, Janina Krzysiak spent her formative years outside of Philadelphia, PA, before moving back to Poland to indulge her love for cheap air travel, walkable cities, and Eastern European nostalgia. When she’s not writing and editing travel guides, she moonlights as a particle physicist. No, really.

This issue’s snowy cover shot portrays none other than the Old Town Hall (p.27), with Neptune (p.28) looking out of his element in front. This is the type of weather we’re hoping for this winter, by the way. Photo by Małgorzata Kolasa.

PUBLISHER & STAFF

Circulation 15,000 copies published 3 times per year Writer & Editor: Janina Krzysiak Sales: Agata Urbanowicz (+48) 606 749 642 Events: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 882 079 723, Agata Janik, Katarzyna Mrozewska-Fenz Research: Dominika Sosnowska, Patrycja Ples, Aleksandra Sosnowska Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Polish Milk Bars The communistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; take on fast food, these nostalgic establishments are living museums of gastronomy in the Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Republic of Poland.

Polish Milk Bars What, drinking dens for infants? Not quite. Essentially the inverse of gourmet dining, Polish milk bars (bary mleczne) were the communist party’s solution for how to feed the masses, and a visit to one of these working class cafeterias today provides a rare insight into Eastern Bloc Poland. The concept, though strongly connected to the People’s Republic, actually dates back to the turn of the century; specifically, to a certain Stanisław Dłużewski, a dairy farmer and member of the Polish gentry, who opened the “Nadświdrzańska Dairy” in 1896 Warsaw. Serving simple, milk-based breakfast and lunch items - cocoa, coffee, cheese, baked goods, pierogi, groats with soured milk, potatoes with kefir - he wooed urban workers and the more leisurely, artistic class, and other entrepreneurs followed suit, popularizing the dairy bar idea. Fast forward to the post-WWII years - what with the new communist regime and general scarcity, the idea of simple, cheap eateries for the proletaryat was perfectly in line with the reigning ideology. Meant to provide hot food for workers who lacked canteens at their place of employment, milk bars provided many other benefits to the communist state, from freeing up women - traditionally responsible for cooking - to work outside the home, to an efficient distribution of whatever food was currently available in the shortage economy, to controlling one more aspect of citizens’ lives. And, of course, it was yet another thing to do communally. With fancy restaurants gone (too bourgeois), milk bars now fed everyone, factory workers rubbing shoulders with university professors and even government officials. Broadly speaking, the food was sub-par, the staff grumpy, and the crockery chipped and needing a thorough scrub. For a period of time, the menu was even determined by the government, which meant the same bland dishes with flour and dairy taking centre stage, and meat only

POLISH FOOD

Pierogi

Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the world of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the following to the test: Bigos: Also known as Hunter’s Stew. Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty dish, it’s usually made using meat, cabbage, onions, sauerkraut and whatever else is around, and then left to simmer for a few days. If you have second helpings then consider yourself a Pole by default. Gołąbki: Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served with a tomato or mushroom sauce. Golonka: Pork knuckle, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish delicacy, the meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Go caveman. Kiełbasa: Sausages, and in Polish shops you’ll find an enormous variety, made from everything from turkey to bison. Pierogi: Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, or fruit, though if you nose around you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are served almost everywhere. Placki ziemniaczane: These greasy potato pancakes are very similar to Jewish latkes and best enjoyed with goulash on top (placki po węgiersku). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

The golden era of milk bars.

Zupa (Soup): Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz (aka borscht) may be served with potatoes or mini-pierogi floating in it, or with a croquette for dunking. Żurek is a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl. 7

Polish Milk Bars After ordering, you can sit down; your order will most likely be called when ready. The experience concludes with taking the dishes back to a window in the wall or to a designated table after you’re done eating, lest you invoke the wrath of the babcia in charge. Below we list the great three survivors which still exist in the centre of Poznań. Go, and dine like it’s 1967 (and you’re stuck behind the Iron Curtain).

A typical menu board.

Photo by Mohylek, CC BY-SA 3.0

sometimes making a brief cameo - served at all milk bars. The bars were strictly self-serve and usually followed the same scheme: patrons would queue up to the cashier, choose the dishes they wanted (each meal component, from cabbage to potatoes, had its own price), then surrender their receipt to a seemingly disembodied hand extending from an opening in the wall, which would in return issue a sloppily loaded plate. With the collapse of communism most milk bars went bankrupt or transformed into more western-style establishments, but some managed to retain a loyal customer base of pensioners, university students, and cheapskates. Kept alive by state subsidies, which help the prices stay low and impressively random-looking (who needs rounding?), these feed museums are an essential experience for anyone interested in the history of the People’s Republic, or just looking for a very cheap meal. That being said, ordering milk bar food can be intimidating if you’re a foreigner. English is unlikely to be spoken, the grumpiness has carried over from communist times, and the menu is usually a cluttered letterboard and sometimes an unintelligible mess. Some combination of pointing, scribbling, and pantomime might be necessary, but luckily we’re here to help. Our box on the previous page lists the most common Polish dishes, many of which will be available; other words which you might encounter include the following: ziemniaki potatoes kapusta cabbage buraczki shredded beets pomidorowa tomato soup fasolka beans naleśniki crepes krokiety croquettes ryba fish kluski, kluchy, or kopytka dumplings without filling schabowy schnitzel kompot a boiled fruit drink flaki or flaczki tripe stew kaszanka blood sausage 8

Grey dumplings with cabbage at Przysmak.

POD ARKADAMI Dating back to the 1970s, this small bar is still going strong, perhaps partially due to branching out into fried chicken. The specialty, though, is regional grey dumplings with cabbage.QG‑7, Pl. Ratajskiego 10, tel. (+48) 61 852 22 98. Open 11:00-17:00. PRZYSMAK Calling this milk bar ‘the Delicacy’ was undoubtedly an act of overconfidence, but its enduring popularity is nothing to scoff at. The ground floor is occupied by a very retro cafe and confectionary; head upstairs to get to the actual bar mleczny.QH‑7, ul. Podgórna 2, tel. (+48) 61 852 13 39. Open 12:00-17:00. BAR CARITAS Run by the charity Caritas, this appears to be the mostforeigner friendly milk bar, advertising their budget meals in three languages. Crepes and fish are the pride of the kitchen.QH‑7, Pl. Wolności 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 51 30, www.caritaspoznan.pl. Open 08:00-19:00; Sat 10:0018:00; Sun 12:00-17:00. €.

Vintage crockery, once commonly used in milk bars.

Photo by Mohylek, CC BY-SA 3.0

Events

International Ice Sculpture Festival, p. 13 | Photo by Marcin Buczyński. Courtesy of City of Poznań

EVENTS BY DATE 11.11 13:00 » ST. MARTIN’S DAY

The entire nation associates the 11th of November with the Polish Independence Day celebrations. In Poznań, these celebrations have much more lighthearted character since they are also associated with St. Martin’s Day - a holiday that has been celebrated here since the Middle Ages. The celebrations involve a colourful parade, pleasant kitsch, and literal tonnes of special pimped-out (rogals) croissants. Poznanians, in the company of many visitors who descend on the city to participate in the St. Martin revelry, take part in a variety of parades and performances until well into the night.QH‑8, St. Martin’s Church, ul. Św. Marcin 13, tel. (+48) 61 852 32 63, Admission free, www.poznan. naszemiasto.pl.

14.11 - 16.11 » NOSTALGIA FESTIVAL

The Nostalgia Festival is an innovative music project, designed to present to an audience a contemporary circle of artists focused mainly around ECM Records. Their music reaches deeply to the artists’ national roots (Armenian, Estonian, Georgian, Polish, Russian and Ukrainian). This 2019 festival honours Krzysztof Komeda, who was one of the best and least understood precursors of Polish modern jazz. The new renditions of Komeda’s music will be performed by Piotr Orzechowski, Kuba Więcek, Ares Chadzinikolau, and the Oles Brothers Trio. The festival 10

weekend will also feature the works of Georgian composer Gia Kancheli, performed by violist Marcin Murawski and Georgian pianist Nino Jvania.QAdmission free, www. nostalgiafestival.pl.

15.11 - 16.11 » POZNAŃ BEER FEST & STREET FOOD SPOT 2019

Friends, great conversations and fantastic beer selection! Poznań Beer Fest & Street Spot offers all of the above and more! There will be lectures and concerts as well, so if you are new to the world of beer, here is your opportunity to learn everything you always wanted to know about this golden liquid. Street Food Spot, on the other hand, offers a wide variety of delicious snacks which are a must after drinking beer! Over 80 craft beer producers will be waiting for you there so do not miss this chance!QTickets 20zł, 2 Day Pass 35zł, www.targipiwne.pl.

15.11 » ‘GREATER POLAND’ BEER CUP

‘Greater Poland’ Beer Cup is a competition addressed to breweries and cider mills during which a jury will select the best of the best from products registered in 27 categories. The members of the jury are Mateusz Puślecki, the vice president of the Polskie Stowarzyszenie Piwowarów Domowych (Polish Home Brewers Association), and Przemysław Iwanek, a longtime beer judge. The beer and cider market is constantly expanding in Poland, especially when it comes to the craft beer production. The beer selection is growing, with new and exciting beer producers joining the market every day.

Events The Greater Beer Cup is organised by the creators of Poznań Beer Expo, the home of professional brewers, bloggers, beer enthusiasts, and collectors, as well as those who simply love a good beer. QGłogowska 14. Tickets 20zł, Pass Tickets 30zł, www.targipiwne.pl.

15.11 - 16.11 » POZNAŃ BEER EXPO

The annual Poznań Beer Expo is a celebration of one of the oldest alcoholic beverages. The event attracts home and professional brewers alike, bloggers, beer enthusiasts, and collectors, as well as those who simply love a good beer. It is not only an excellent opportunity to taste the highest quality craft beers, ciders, and meads, but also to learn about the culture, history and contemporary world of craft beer. The event is traditionally accompanied by the Street Food Spot, which is dedicated to all urban food lovers. This year the Expo will also include the contest ‘Greater Poland’ for the best beer and cider. The winners are going to be announced during the final gala on the 15th of November. QTickets 20zł, Pass Ticket 35zł, www.targipiwne.pl.

16.11 - 22.12 » PLAC WOLNOŚCI CHRISTMAS FAIR

The magic of Christmas will take over Poznań already on the 10th of November with the arrival of the Mill Wheel carousel, and the 33 meters high Devil’s Wheel at the Wolności Square. A few days later, on the 16th of November, the Christmas Fair (Poznań’s Bethlehem) will spread all over the square. There will be the traditional manger to admire, Christmas’ treats, and plenty of cultural attractions. The Christmas market will end on the 22nd of December.QG/ H‑7, Plac Wolności, Admission free, www.pik.poznan.pl.

17.11, 01.12 12:30 » INTERACTIVE, MULTICULTURAL FAMILY CONCERTS AT GATE POZNAŃ.

Poznań has a rich cultural heritage - a mixture of German, Italian, Greek, Jewish, and Romani. The interactive family concerts ‘Pograjki’ are designed to introduce their participants to those multicultural traditions, stories from various ethnic regions, and musical customs. The concerts are certainly a perfect occasion for entire families to spend quality time together. ‘Pograjki’ will take place once a month, on Sundays, between 11 am and 12.30 pm.QTickets from 10zł, www.bramapoznania.pl.

22.11 19:00, 23.11 19:00, 24.11 18:00 » ANNA KARENINA

Leo Tolstoy convincing and deeply psychological portrait of a woman who longs for passion in a society regulated by conventions was turned into a ballet by Russian composer and pianist Rodion Shchedrin in 1971. The vastly impressive score mirrors the wealth of emotional and psychological undertones of the characters’ feelings and passions. The choreography rests with the Grand Theatre’s ballet director, Tomasz Kajdański, who specialises in teaching acting to dancers, as well as in combining the classical and modern schools of movement. QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, Tickets 12-130zł, www.opera.poznan.pl. 11

Events 28.11 - 01.12 » CAVALIADA

CAVALIADA in Poznań for the second time will be held as a four-star event. Four stars mean a high prize pool - 820,000 pln, a total of 900,000 pln for the whole event. As it was in the previous years, this competition will be included in the Central European League of the World Cup and the Cavaliada Tour. From Thursday the 28th to Sunday the 1st, fans can watch the athletes’ struggles in four equestrian competitions: jumping over obstacles, the Comprehensive Top Horse Competition, dressage, and carriage driving. The program includes spectacular competitions loved by the audience, such as Thursday’s Venus vs Mars (women vs. men), Friday’s Indoor Polish Cup and the Power of Jumping, Saturday’s Cavaliada Future, fast and musical Speed&Music and Indoor Cup of Poland in Carriage Driving , as well as Sunday’s finals of Dressage and Grand Prix.QTickets 45-335zl.

29.11 - 01.12 » ARTS AND CRAFTS FESTIVAL

Visit the festival for various handicrafts created by Polish artists; as well as, workshops and demonstrations held by the artists themselves. Items will range from paintings to photographs to handmade gifts, jewelry, clothes, and more!QD‑9, Poznań Congress Center, ul. Głogowska 14, tel. (+48) 61 869 20 00, Admission 9/6zł, www.festiwal.mtp.pl.

30.11 - 22.12 » OLD TOWN SQUARE CHRISTMAS FAIR

It’s time for the 2019 Yuletide celebrations! There will be cute regional crafts, gingerbread, mulled wine, wintertime snacks, and plenty of Christmas decorations to choose from. The Ice Festival will take place on the 7th and 8th of December, beckoning the audience with the beauty of ice sculptures. Traditionally, the Christmas Tree lighting ceremony will take place on the Old Town Square on the 30th of November at 5 pm, marking the beginning of the Christmas Fair, which will be open from 11 am to 9 pm. The market will end on the 22nd of December.QI‑7, Old Town Square, Admission free, www.pik.poznan.pl.

01.12 - 08.12 » INTERNATIONAL YOUNG AUDIENCE FILM FESTIVAL ALE KINO!

Dating back to the 1960’s this film festival began as a national event, but has grown into a huge international affair, with film for youth at its core. Covering all genres and invoking both laughter and tears, the films this year will take movie-goers on a journey through cinema. Films from around the world will be presented in order to spark a dialogue and encourage children and teenagers to become interested in the production and execution of this art form; as well as, its enjoyment.QH‑10, Multikino 51, ul. Królowej Jadwigi 51, tel. (+48) 61 628 15 24, Ticket prices undecided at press time, www.alekino.com.

03.12 19:00 » THE BEST OF ENNIO MORRICONE

Ennio Morricone is rightly considered the world’s greatest living film composer, a master of his craft, a true virtuoso, effortlessly interweaving contrasting styles to produce some of the most sublime music of our day. Morricone’s versatile, 12

Events exhaustive range of musical styles has complemented practically every conceivable movie genre there is. The concert in Poznań on the 3rd of December promises to be the most exciting, fantastic musical journey through the composer’s best film soundtracks, such as The Good, The Bad, and the Ugly, The Mission, Cinema Paradiso, The Hateful Eight, Django Unchained, and Once Upon A Time In America.QA‑10, Hala Arena, ul. Wyspiańskiego 33, tel. (+48) 61 866 60 31, Tickets from 99zł.

07.12 - 08.12 » INTERNATIONAL ICE SCULPTURE FESTIVAL

It is almost winter, and since we are in Northern Europe, so an ice sculpting festival is practically a must! The International Ice Sculpture Festival has been organised in Poznań for eleven years now, and always draws an international crowd. The Festival will take place from the 7th to the 8th of December, 2019. The first day features the most spectacular competition – Speed Ice Carving. The second day features the Main Competition, during which 12 double teams will work furiously all day long. 24 sculptors from 11 countries will compete this year the ice artists come from the United States, Philippines, Canada, Ukraine, Spain, Mexico, Malaysia, Czechia, Serbia, Netherlands, and naturally, Poland. The’ ice stage’ will be set up in the Old Town Square. If you get hungry watching the competition, do not hesitate to try delicious treats at the Christmas Market!QI‑7, Old Town Square, Admission free, www.poznan.naszemiasto.pl.

21.12 - 22.12 » DESIGN CRAFT MARKET

The Design & Craft Market targets all lovers of design and Polish craft. The event will feature dozens of young Polish brands offering a wide range of furniture, lamps, ceramics, posters, textiles, toys, paintings and other original crafts. The products will include unique designs, functionality, limited editions, and hand-made from quality materials. In addition to the things to buy there will be workshops and lectures so you can learn something new. QG‑9, Stary Browar, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 61 859 60 50, Admission free, www.designandcraftmarket.pl.

06.01 12:00 » THREE KINGS DAY PROCESSION

The holiday of Three Kings or Trzech Króli (January 6) marks the end of the Christmas season in impressive style throughout Poland. A wholly Catholic holiday, 3 Kings honours Kaspar, Melchior and Balthazar, the three wise men who visited Jesus at his birth. Celebrations will include a parade welcoming the wise men, with characters passing out candy and children dressed in colours signifying Asia, Africa and Europe (the respective homelands of the wise men). This is an event that has become part of the cultural tradition of the city. A total of about 500 volunteers from Poznań’s schools, musicians, scouting teams, nongovernmental organisations, and private companies all get involved in the preparation of the day. Every year, it gathers around 5,000 to 15,000 participants.QG/H‑7, Plac Wolności, Admission free. 13

Events 10.01 20:30 » WODECKI TWIST: SEIZE THE DAY.

Zbigniew Wodecki was a beloved Polish singer, musician, composer, and actor. Everyone in Poland knows his songs, such as Chałupy Welcome To, I Like to Go Back to the Places I Have Been to Before, or Begin With Bach, as well as the Polish versions of several soundtracks – Maya the Honey Bee and Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer: The Movie. The concert tour “Wodecki Twist: Seize the Day” is a musical tribute to this great musician, paid by several Polish artists. The concerts will take place in Lublin, Warsaw, Koszalin, Kraków, Gdańsk, Poznań, Katowice, and Wrocław. The concert in Poznań takes place on the 10th of January, 2020, and the artists’ lineup includes Alicja Majewska, Kasia Moś, Ania Rusowicz, Kuba Badach, Włodzimierz Korcz, Sławek Uniatowski and many others.QD‑9, Poznań Congress Center, ul. Głogowska 14, tel. (+48) 61 869 20 00, Tickets 99-159zł, www.goodtaste.pl.

12.01 18:00, 14.01 19:00 » THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO

The Marriage of Figaro comic opera was composed in 1786 by Mozart, premiering by Vienna in the same year. Ever since then, it’s remained one of the absolute favorite operatic creations, still in the top ten of the most-performed operas worldwide today. Poznań version directed by Marek Weiss; performed in the original Italian language.QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, Tickets 12130zł, www.opera.poznan.pl.

21.02, 22.02, 25.02 19:00 » DON JUAN

Don Juan, a legendary, fictional libertine, a hero of Moliere’s comedy gets a makeover in the new ballet interpretation by Robert Bondera. Musically, the transformation involves Gluck, Bach, and Paweł Szymański’s baroque music. What’s more important is the question to what extent the sexual behaviour of the famous seducer of women can shock today’s over sexualised audience. Is Don Juan syndrome a new scourge of our time? How relevant is Don Juan’s story? Maybe this performance will be the beginning of a dispute. QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, Tickets 12-33zł, www.opera.poznan.pl.

EXHIBITIONS UNTIL 24.11 » ENTERING NEW DIMENSION. THE OEUVRE OF SOPHIE TAEUBER-ARP

Sophie Henriette Gertrude Taeuber-Arp was a Swiss artist, painter, sculptor, textile designer, furniture and interior designer, architect and dancer. She is considered one of the most important artists of concrete art and geometric abstraction of the 20th century. The exhibition at Zamek Culture Centre will be open to the public till the 24th of November and will present the oeuvre of Sophie Taeuber-Arp spanning a period from the late 1920s to her death in 1943. The exhibition is accompanied by lectures and workshops reflecting the artist’s fascinations with painting, architecture, mathematics, physics, philosophy, dance, fashion, the secrets of tailoring and puppetry, the jewellery of the period, geometry in art, and Dada theatre. QF‑7, ZAMEK Culture Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, Tickets 7/10zł, www.ckzamek.pl. 14

UNTIL 31.12 » TY BAMBRZE!

300 years ago the settlers from Bamberg arrived in the Greater Poland region. The exhibition is an occasion to reflect upon relations between locals and the settlers. How prevalent were stereotypes? The exhibition creates an opportunity to extend knowledge about the settlers and attempts to answer an old question - how much truth is contained in stories and opinions passed on from generation to generation, and how distorted and harmful they can potentially be.QJ‑8, Ethnographic Museum, ul. Mostowa 7, tel. (+48) 61 852 30 06, Admission 5/7zł, www.mnp.art.pl.

UNTIL 02.02 » HOUSE. CITY. GARDEN. JANINA AND WŁADYSŁAW CZARNECKI’S OEUVRE

Władysław Czarnecki was a Polish architect, highly regarded for his contribution to the urban development of the city of Poznań, especially its parks. Together with his wife Janina, they were the most ardent supporters of the idea ‘more forests for Poznań!’. The exhibition tells the story of this incredible couple, their commitment to the architectural development of the city they devoted their lives to. It also paints a picture of the 20th century Polish intelligentsia. QL‑6, Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre of Cathedral Island, ul. Gdańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 647 76 34, Admission 12/18zł, www.bramapoznania.pl.

UNTIL 15.12 » IDENTITY. 100 YEARS OF POLISH ARCHITECTURE.

The exhibition in Poznań (one of five) celebrates the 100th anniversary of Polish archtecture, promoting the artists who influenced the shape of urban spaces after regaining independence in 1918. The exhibition tackles such questions as social identity and change, and the role of architects and urban planners in our everyday lives. How does their activity contribute to the creation of the Polish cultural landscape and the identity of the places Poles live in? Thus, the exhibition not only promotes Polish architectural culture but also invites visitors to reflect on their surroundings and the quality of the space they live in.QBuilding ‘Alfa’, Św. Marcina 52/56. Admission free, www.niaiu.pl.

24.11 - 31.12 » IN BLACK AND WHITE IN COLOR

There are fifty old photographs on display taken between 1890 and 1939 originating from various regions of Poland. They were not reconstructed in any way, so thanks to the patina of age, they are a true testimony to the past. The photographs were enlarged and realistically colorised, but their original wear and tear remained untouched. The photographs, often of unknown origin, tell stories of past lives inviting the audience to interpret them and create their own memories.QJ‑8, Ethnographic Museum, ul. Mostowa 7, tel. (+48) 61 852 30 06, Admission 5/7zł, www.mnp.art.pl.

Events 05.11 - 29.02 » DANIEL LISMORE: I AM THE WORK OF ART - THE EXHIBITION CELEBRATING THE 16TH BIRTHDAY OF OLD BREWERY.

‘Be yourself, everyone else is already taken’ is both the motto of Daniel Lismore’s life and the title of the exhibition that has been travelling the world since 2016. Sculptures made of fabrics, jewellery and various weird objects do not differ much from the costumes the artist wears every day. There is no doubt that Daniel Lismore is an original, often referred to as ‘England’s Most Eccentric Dresser’ since he is best known for his flamboyant dress sense serving a form of statement, sculpture and even armour. ‘Who are you? Who would you like to be?’ – Daniel Lismore asks provocatively, answering this question himself with the help of his art. QG‑9, Stary Browar, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 61 859 60 50, Tickets 10zł, www.starybrowar5050.com.

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25.11 - 28.02 » W BRETANII

‘A photographer is an acrobat treading the high wire of chance, trying to capture shooting stars.’ – said Guy Le Querrec, a French photographer and filmmaker, noted for his documentary images of jazz musicians. The current exhibition features the photographs of his home region, Brittany. The selection of more than 20 photographs dates back to the 1960s and 1980s. Le Querrec, a keen observer of everyday life, took pictures of ordinary working people. The artist was called both is both a poet and a jester, which aptly describes the unique sense of humor, and the empathy with which Le Querrec treats his characters. QDom Bretanii, Stary Rynek 37, tel. (+48) 61 851 68 51, Admission free, www.dombretanii.org.pl.

09.01 - 29.03 » UNKNOWN IMPRESSIONISM: MANET, PISSARRO AND THEIR CONTEMPORARIES

The Ashmolean Museum in Oxford holds the largest single collection of 19th-century prints by the giants of Impressionism. Part of their collection will be available for viewing at the Zamek Culture Centre in Poznań, starting the 9th of January through the 29th of March, 2020. Of the Impressionists, Camille Pissarro was the most prolific printmaker–producing approximately 200 etchings and lithographs in the years from 1863 to 1902. Technically, he pushed the medium to its limits through his manipulation of etching plates. In addition to Pisarro, the works exhibited at Zamek will include such artists as Alfred Sisley, Paul Cezanne, Auguste Renoir, Henri de Toulouse Lautrec, and Edouard Manet. The exhibition will be accompanied by workshops, lectures and tours.QF‑7, ZAMEK Culture Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, Tickets 7/10zł, www.ckzamek.pl.

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Arrival & Transport

Poznań Główny Train Station, AKA the Breadbox

BY TRAIN MAIN TRAIN STATION Poznań’s main train station (Dworzec Poznań Główny) is opposite the Trade Fair Centre and about 10 minutes by taxi to the main square. The site of a massive 160 million złoty redevelopment project over the last few years, a new transportation centre has arisen alongside the old train station building, creating a strange clash of deep People’s Republic and shiny 21st century - the latter packaged in a breadbox shape, as critics have sneered - with train platforms scattered confusingly between the two. Allow extra time to locate your train, and woe to those departing from the notoriously difficult to find platform 4a - reach it by following platform 4 (in the old section) to the very end, away from the trade fair grounds. If you see 4b, you’ve gone in the wrong direction. But back to the breadbox: modern and state-of-theart, it finally integrates rail, tram, and bus connections in one squeaky clean transit station. As a result, this is now the point of entry for most visitors to the city, including those arriving at the airport and taking the direct bus to the centre, which drops off here. In this day and age, it’s practically impossible for any new train station in Poland to not come prepackaged with a shopping centre, and that is certainly the case here: welcome to Avenida, a shopping haven with a food court and parking for 900 cars, plus additional opportunities for consumerism and refreshment spilling out into the train station hall. Other now-standard amenities include lockers for large luggage (have some coins handy), currency exchange, and bank machines. The city of Poznań operates a tourist information desk, but there’s also the PKP-operated Train Station Office 16

(open 07:00 - 21:00), which can help you plan your trip, get tickets, and even get into town. Normal ticket windows are conveniently open 24hrs, but using the ticket machines (which have English options) is just as easy. If you’re running late, note that it is possible to buy tickets onboard the train from the conductor for a small surcharge. Check the timetables online at the Polish railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has good English functionality; if you want a seat on a particular train, it is best to book ahead. Taxis await you immediately outside, and a ride to the main square costs about 20-30zł. Alternatively, hop on tram number 5 (to ‘Wrocławska’) or number 8 (to ‘Pl. Wielkopolski’) from the ‘Most Dworcowy’ stop located on the bridge, and you will only have a short 6-7 minute walk to the main square; a 10-minute ticket will suffice. QD‑9, ul. Dworcowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made between 24:00-01:00.

Arrival & Transport Alternatively, cut costs by catching a bus, which will get you to the centre in 15-20 minutes. From the stop right outside the entrance, line 159 heads to ‘Poznań Główny’ (the main train station) at least three times per hour from 05:05 to 22:54. At other times the airport is connected to the train station by night bus 242, which runs at 23:25, 00:00, 00:25, 01:25, 02:55, and 03:55 daily; journey time 23 mins. Single 45-minute tickets (5zł) can be bought from kiosks, TI, or ticket machines; remember to validate your ticket immediately upon boarding.Qul. Bukowska 285 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 43, www.airport-poznan.com.pl.

BY BUS MAIN BUS STATION At the end of 2013, PKS Poznań Bus Station was integrated into the city’s spiffy new transportation centre below the Avenida shopping mall - more info on which you can find under Main Train Station, including what amenities are available, and how to get into town. QE‑9, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 703 30 33 30, www.dworzecautobusowy.poznan.pl. Ticket office open 07:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-19:00. TI open 09:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00.

BY PLANE POZNAŃ ŁAWICA AIRPORT Poznań Ławica Airport lies a convenient 7km west of central Poznań.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Poznań is crisscrossed by over one hundred tram and bus lines, including night routes, and represents the most time and cost efficient way to move about town. Due to frequent track work and route changes, however, your best bet for figuring out how to use public transport in Poz is the super-helpful website poznan.jakdojade.pl (mobile app also available), which can tell you exactly how to get from point A to Point B in English. Transport tickets are bought from automated machines found on most buses and trams, as well as at most transport stops, and thankfully you can pay by card (no need for coins!). The galaxy of ticket options are far too complex to review here; you can take it to heart that you won’t be leaving ‘Zone A’ unless you’re travelling far outside of the city-centre, as even Lake Malta is within Zone A. Tickets are timed, and the cheapest option is a notvery-cheap 3zł for only 10mins - which might only get you 3 or 4 stops. A 40-min ticket for 4.60zł is the safer bet, but if you plan on travelling often, you may want to consider a 24hr or 48hr ticket. Note that kids under five and adults over 70 ride for free. Finally, it is extremely important that you validate your ticket by punching it in the ‘kasowniks’ found by the bus/tram exit as soon as you board. Inspectors regularly travel the lines handing out hefty fines, and they aren’t sympathetic to tourists; seriously, riding without a ticket can not only ruin your day, but your entire trip to Poz.

In the Arrivals terminal you’ll find an exchange bureau (kantor), cash machine (bankomat), and food vendors, as well as a tourist info point where you can pick up additional copies of Poznań’s best guidebook (wink). As with all sensible airports in this day and age, there is absolutely no left luggage facility. Getting to town is a cinch. Car rental is available, and taxis stand right outside the entrance, though you’ll probably overpay to take one. Aim to pay around 30-35zł for the taxi fare to the centre, but keep in mind that it can shoot up to 50zł during the nighttime; as always, agree on a fare with the driver before committing.

Arrival & Transport BY CAR

CAR RENTAL

Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of getting behind the wheel here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.

All most travellers need to rent a car in PL is 18 years of age, a credit card (not debit), and a valid foreign driver’s licence. Be aware, however, that those from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic (United States, China, Australia...) cannot legally drive on their home licences; technically an International Driver’s License is required in those cases. Though some rental companies (the dodgier ones) will still rent you a car, be aware that you are assuming full liability for any damages if you get behind the wheel; you also run the risk of getting a citation from the police for driving without a valid license. If you’re looking to leave the country, be aware that you can’t cross the Polish borders into Ukraine, Belarus or Lithuania in a rental car.

The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/ alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licences technically invalid (though this has never been a problem for anyone we know).

AVISQul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 22 113 91 64 , www.avis.pl. Open 08:00-24:00; Sat 09:0022:30; Sun 10:00-24:00. DUDA-CARSQul. Ptasia 4, tel. (+48) 61 864 44 44. Open 08:00-17:00; Sat 09:00-16:00; closed Sun. EUROPCARQul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 665 30 16 31, www.europcar.pl. Open 08:3023:30; Sat, Sun 09:30-23:30.

TAXIS

Photo by Acubens, CC BY-SA 3.0

Driving to Poznań is fairly easy as it’s on the main E30 highway between Warsaw and Berlin. Once you’ve arrived, driving around Poznań’s congested one-way streets can be incredibly trying, however, so we suggest you ditch your vehicle for public transport at the first opportunity, which raises the question of where to put it. Public parking lots are marked on our maps, and free parking is basically non-existent, though some hotels have limited parking spaces for guests; check when booking your room. For street parking you’ll easily recognise the universal large blue ‘P’ sign, but be aware that a blue circle with a red ‘X’ over it means ‘No Parking’ (not sure which universe that sign is from). Pay via the automated ticket machines on the sidewalk, but note that they only take coins or special chip cards from the parking authority office (so forget that option). Generally having a private car in Poznań is a bad idea unless you have a safe, inexpensive place to keep it. 18

Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable and use their metres without any fiddling around. Calling ahead should get you a better fare, but if you hail one from the street make sure you choose a clearly marked cab with a company name and phone number displayed, as well as a sticker demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a printed receipt at journey’s end further limiting the likelihood of any funny business. You should expect to pay 5zł for entering the taxi followed by 2zł per kilometre. Prices rise on Sundays, holidays, late at night and for travel outside of the city limits. EURO TAXI Qtel. (+48) 61 811 11 11, www.euro-taxi.com.pl. RADIO LUX TAXI Qtel. (+48) 61 196 62, www.luxtaxi.com.pl. TALIXO This global transport service (operating in over 750 cities) connects you to the best local taxi and limousine fleets. Their simple online reservation system allows you to get a ride that matches your needs, whether it’s a child seat or just a super fly ride. Specialising in airport transfers, their system can track your flight, ensuring that your English-speaking driver will be there (looking snappy with a personalised sign), whether you land ahead of or behind schedule.Qtel. (+49) 30 346 49 73 60, www.talixo.com/iyp-poznan. ZTP POZNAŃQtel. (+48) 61 196 22, www.taxi.com.pl.

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Poznań Sightseeing Crowded with cobbled streets, soaring steeples and historical monuments, Poznań’s Old Town is a collage of architectural styles and historical monuments, waiting to be explored… 24

Sightseeing A city of half a million with a history dating back to the 8th century, considered a likely site of the baptism of Polish ruler Mieszko I and thus the birthplace of the Polish state, Poznań is the capital of the Wielkopolska region and a popular business and tourism destination. Its runs as the residence of early Polish kings, a medieval trade hub, Prussian-occupied Posen, a WWII Festung, and finally its return to Poland created a city rife with historical monuments, with much to offer those who enjoy outstanding architecture and diverse cultural attractions. While part of the beauty of Poznań lies in aimlessly roaming the streets and alleys, making chance findings from one turn to the next, there are a number of must-see sights whose discovery should not be left to chance. Your natural start point should be the Old Town, and its main square, the glorious Stary Rynek; we make touring both easy with two sections beginning on the next page. Along the way, make sure not to miss the gem of the Old Town, the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus (p.33), which boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists as well as a flamboyant pink facade, and Poznań’s two castles, the Royal Castle (p.35), once the seat of the first Polish kings, and the Imperial Castle (p.37), built as the residence of Prussian ruler Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1910. Once done with the wonders of the Old Town, make your way across the river to the most important place of worship in Poznań, the Poznań Cathedral (p.39) in Ostrów Tumski with its twin towers and surrounding chapels. This is the site connected with Mieszko’s baptism, a story which is now told in all its glory at Porta Posnania (p.38). Poznań also boasts some glorious parks and green spaces. Lake Malta (p.44), just east of the centre is one of the more unique urban leisure areas in the country, and offers loads of family activities for all seasons, including skiing, roller-coasters, and the New Zoo. Meanwhile, just north of the Old Town lies Citadel Park (p.41) with 89 hectares of public greenery stuffed with interesting monuments, and even two museums focussed on the city’s military past. Those with an interest in more recent history will no doubt also appreciate museums dedicated to Poznań’s two famous uprisings, the 1918 Wielkopolska Uprising against Prussians (p.51) and the 1956 Uprising against communist authorities (p.48), and the Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum (p.51) housed in a former Gestapo penal camp. Also keep an eye out on the multitude of cultural events taking place in and around the city, especially in the summer - we list the highlights in our events section starting on p.10. No matter how long your stay, you’ll find plenty in Poznań to keep your interest. Use our guide to explore it all and enjoy one of Poland’s most ancient and exciting cities.

TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Qul. Bukowska 285 (Poznań Ławica Airport, Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 43, www.poznan. travel.pl. Open 24 hours. TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE QD‑9, ul. Dworcowa 2 (Main Train Station), tel. (+48) 61 633 10 16, www.poznan.travel.pl. Open 09:0017:00.

GUIDED TOURS If an authoritative print guide and expansive web portal simply aren’t enough, and you need someone to literally take you by the hand (hey, we kid), there are plenty of tour companies to choose from in Poznań and we list the best of them here. CITY EVENT POZNAŃ More from City Guide Poznań - going beyond walking tours and standard tourist itineraries, City Event Poznań organises multimedia city games, foodie and feast tours, costumed performers, and more. Perfect for groups, school field trips, and team building.Qtel. (+48) 608 28 42 08, www.cityevent-poznan.pl. CITY GUIDE POZNAŃ Excellent local guides offering tours in English, German, Polish, Italian, Russian, French and Spanish to attractions throughout Poznań and beyond (the Piast Route). During Poland’s EU presidency, City Guides was chosen to show delegates of the European Commission around the city - solid credentials indeed.Qtel. (+48) 608 28 42 08, www.cityguide-poznan.com.pl. KULTOUR.PL City guides offering tours of Poznań and the surrounding area. Languages spoken include German, English, Russian, Ukrainian, Spanish, and even Japanese. Please call in advance to book a tour.Qtel. (+48) 601 87 16 61, www.kultour.pl. VISITPOZNAŃ VisitPoznan offers a wide variety of traditional and alternative-themed walking tours for groups and individuals during the warm season (roughly MayOctober). All tours are by prior arrangement only. Qtel. (+48) 663 03 62 95, www.visitpoznan.info. For groups 1-6 people 190zł/2hrs, 250zł/3hrs, 340zł/5hrs; prices negotiable for larger groups.

Book a Poznań Tour http://bit.ly/PoznanTour 25

Stary Rynek Walking Tour

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Packed with monuments, landmarks, museums, and mementos from the city’s rich history, Poznańs marvellous Old Town Square warrants more than a passing glance and smartphone pic. Faithfully reconstructed after the immense damage of WWII, the Square can easily take a few hours to properly explore and enjoy. 1 OLD TOWN HALL (RATUSZ) First erected in the early 14th century, Poznań’s glorious Town Hall (Ratusz) really flowered in mid-1500s when Italian architect Giovanni Quadro of Lugano added the Renaissance loggia, attic, and classical tower, earning the structure acclaim as ‘the most beautiful building north of the Alps.’ Unfortunately a catalogue of historic disasters - including a 1675 fire, 1725 hurricane and WWII bomb damage - have resulted in the sad reality that today little of the original structure actually remains, though it has been faithfully rebuilt to retain its status as the city’s showpiece.

Today the Old Town Hall houses the Historical Museum of Poznań - currently closed for renovations scheduled to run until 2021 - whose collection encompasses exhibits from the 10th century till the present day. The biggest draw is the Great Entrance Hall with its elaborately decorated vault, supported by two huge pillars. The tableaux are inspired by the bible, astrology and figures from mythology. Directly outside the Town Hall is the original whipping post (Pranger), dating from 1535, with a recently repaired figure of Poz’s executioner standing on top. Crowds gather outside the Town Hall each day to witness two mechanical billy goats emerge from a door above the clock at precisely 12:00 and proceed to butt heads twelve times. Simultaneously, a trumpeter plays the town’s traditional bugle call from a balcony. The bugle call (hejnał) dates back at least to the 15th century, and the goats have been ramming heads 1551. Replaced and restored over the years, the present pair have been bludgeoning each other since 1954. Of course there’s a half-baked legend to go along with them: When the clock was completed in 1511, the governor of the Poznań province was invited for the unveiling. The hapless cook preparing the celebratory feast burnt the venison, so he went out and managed to steal a pair of goats to serve instead. Alas, the goats escaped and traipsed up to the top of City Hall, where the governor saw them butting heads and decreed they be added to the clock. The rest, as they say, is history - much like the cook, who was likely tied to the whipping post and given a bloody good thrashing.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 61 856 81 93, www.mnp.art.pl.

The Town Hall Goats

2 PRANGER (PRĘGIERZ) Just outside the Town Hall, near its southeast corner, you’ll find the proudly protruding Pranger, a 16th-century punishment device funded by fines placed on servant women, wet-nurses, and barmaids who dressed up too frilly or wore jewellery deemed inappropriate for their social standing (the outrage!). Topped with a severe statue of a sword-wielding executioner in a Crusader’s outfit, unlucky criminals would be chained to this octagonal column and whipped, or - if the executioner was feeling fancy or the crime warranted it - have his ears or fingers chopped off. Sadly, the contraption no longer elicits deserved fear, as evidenced by repeated vandalism by drunken students and football hooligans - an offence which would surely be more creatively punished in the Pranger’s heyday than in our current times. Luckily, the original isn’t actually in any danger, as it has long been moved to the Historical Museum and replaced with a copy.QI‑7, Stary Rynek.

BOOK A TOUR Pranger

Stary Rynek Walking Tour MYTHOLOGICAL FOUNTAINS

Apollo Fountain

Guarding the corners of the square are four mythological fountains depicting Neptune, Mars, Apollo, and perhaps in order to combat the under-representation of the fairer sex - Proserpina. The fountains date back to at least the 16th century, though the original adornments were quite different: historical records show a commision for wooden sculptures of a lion and a deer. In the 17th century, city authorities decided to go Roman and splurge on figures of mythological dieties, also in wood (later they were redone in stone). Of the four currently standing, only Proserpina is the original, dating back to 1766; it depicts the goddess of grain and agriculture being abducted by Pluto. The other three fountains were revealed between 2002 and 2005 and placed in their correct historical spots.

3 BUDNICY HOUSES To the left of the Town Hall is perhaps the most recognisable Poznań sight: the picture-book-worthy, technicolor row of townhouses planted right in the middle of the Main Square. Originally called “herring shops” (budy śledziowe), they were home to merchants, and their arcades held fish, candle, torch, and salt stands. They were later renamed to Budnicy Houses (domki budnicze) in honour of a class of merchants known as Budnicy, whose headquarters used to operate at no. 117. Look closely and you’ll see their coat of arms on the facade: three palm trees and a herring.QI‑7, Stary Rynek. 4 WIELKOPOLSKA MILITARY MUSEUM Situated inside a brutal communist-era pavilion, the Military Museum documents the history of the Polish military from the 11th century onwards. Starting with scythes and halberds the collection includes the armour of winged hussars, sabres, muskets and cannons, as well as portraits of Polish military commanders and famous moments in their history. The unwieldy musket ‘kolowy’ is a particularly impressive effort, and surely completely useless in combat. The 20th century section features grenades, compasses and medical kits, and the upstairs is devoted to the Wielkopolska Uprising, with medals, uniforms and postcards from the era. The collection was decimated during WWII, with the only surviving item being a fragment of Wojciech Kossak’s 1901 painting, The Battle of the Pyramids.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 9, tel. (+48) 61 852 67 39, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 10:0016:30; Fri 10:30-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:30-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 7/1-5zł. Sat free. N 5 JOHN OF NEPOMUK MONUMENT As you stroll Stary Rynek, you’ll see numerous monuments, including this noteworthy 1724 figure of John of Nepomuk (Jan Nepomucen), a Bohemian martyr saint who was tortured and drowned in the Vltava River after refusing to divulge the secrets of the Queen of Bohemia’s confessional to her jealous husband Wenceslaus. It was hoped that the saint would be able to protect the city from repeated, disastrous floods, but ultimately the 1960’s re-routing of the Warta River did a far better job of that.QI‑7, Stary Rynek. 6 ARSENAŁ CITY GALLERY Founded in the late 1940s under the somewhat commiesounding name Central Exhibition Bureau, Arsenał is one of the oldest players on Poznań’s art gallery scene - and probably the most important, especially given its very central location. Currently organised by the Poznań City Council, the institution hosts exhibitions by Polish and foreign contemporary artists and organises educational meetings.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 61 852 95 02, www.arsenal.art.pl. Open 12:00-19:00; Sun 12:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission free.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App John of Nepomuk Monument

Photo by kwolana, CC BY-SA 3.0

Stary Rynek Walking Tour POZNAŃ STREET ART

Arsenał City Gallery 7 OD:ZYSK The weirdest spot on the Old Market Square, this former squat is a testament to the city’s large anarchist presence. The late 19th century building on the square’s corner housed a succession of fashion stores, before it was abandoned by its owners sometime in the early 21st century, a signal for the local anarchists to take over. The move took place in late 2012, sparking conflict with city authorities; the squatters used the space to host parties, concerts, and various anarchist events while simultaneously housing some fifty people in shabby conditions, which put the Old Square’s peaceful touristy appeal in some jeopardy. It took until 2015 for the two sides to come to an agreement: the anarchists would move out in exchange for 125 thousand zł (some 35 thousand USD), which would go towards helping the city’s evictees and debtors. Since then, the graffitied and postered building has stood empty, though there are plans to eventually turn it into a posh hotel and restaurant. This doesn’t mean that the anarchists have left the centre completely; you’ll still find them running the Zemsta cafe and bookstore and tagging city walls with leftist messages, while their headquarters remain at ul. Rozbrat, just off Pułaskiego.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 2.

For a long time, the height of Polish street art amounted to scrawling less-print-friendly versions of “All Cops Are Bastards” and “Lech Poznań 4ever” on residential buildings and/or historical monuments in the dead of night, while the ‘artist’s’ accomplices kept watch on the street corner. Older Poles will also remember the occasional party-sanctioned propaganda murals - not the best connotation either. It was only around 20092010 that quality outdoor art started rapidly gaining ground in PL, spawning mural artists and street art festivals throughout the country. The local scene took off in 2011 with the first edition of the Outer Spaces Festival, which saw renowned muralists from Italy, The Netherlands, Spain, and France invited to spice up the drab exteriors of five carefullychosen buildings. The project was a hit, and two more editions were organised, adding a pop of optimism to Wilda and Jeżyce.

2017 mural by Maupal, ul. Nowowiejskiego 17 (G-6).

Not everyone has opted for the legal route, however: a certain Banksy-esque character operating under the pseudonym Noriaki is responsible for an infestation reminiscent of Wrocław’s ‘gnome problem,’ tagging the city walls with variations of Pan Peryskop (Mr. Periscope) AKA The Watcher - a loveable maverick who has integrated himself into the fabric of the city. Keep an eye out, and you’ll realise this watchful rascal is ubiquitous, peering from walls, walking his dog, playing b-ball, and getting passed-out drunk depending on the circumstances. In the summer you can even meet him at Perygród, a seasonal, streetart-themed hangout. Fancy a walking tour of Poznań’s best street art? We’ve not only marked street art locations on our maps with a spray can icon , but we’ve also put it all online with GPS coordinates at iyp.me/poznanstreetart so that your smartphone can do the work for you. We encourage you to do just that, and check out some of Poz’s alternative artistic visions.

Od:zysk

Stary Rynek Walking Tour

The Guardhouse

Radomil CC BY-SA 3.0

8 GUARDHOUSE This 18th-century police guardhouse was originally haphazardly constructed using wood, and later redone in classicist style by Jan Chrystian Kamsetzer in 1783-1787. In the inter-war period, it served as a garrison jailhouse. Like much of the Old Town, this structure was all but levelled in the Battle of Poznań in 1945, and the building had to be reconstructed in later years, serving as the Workers’ Movement Museum during communism. It currently houses the Wielkopolska Uprising Museum.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 3. 9 WIELKOPOLSKA UPRISING MUSEUM Primarily chronicling the 1918-1919 Wielkopolska Uprising (though the exhibition starts at the time of partition) this museum occupies a rebuilt structure that once served as home to the Royal Guard. A /big renovation ended in December 2017, taking the exhibition from a series of artefacts to a modern multimedia creation on par with the Silesian Museum in Katowice or the Warsaw Uprising Museum in the nation’s capital (though much smaller, of course). Downstairs is a mish-mash of weapons, uniforms, reconstructed bunkers and trenches, and vintage photographs, which look great but fail to convey much meaningful information; the historical info is all upstairs,

Bamber Monument

Photo by SuperGlob, CC BY 3.0

Municipal Scales Building

Photo by kwolana, CC BY-SA 4.0

where you can also take a picture dressed as a Wielkopolska soldier.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 61 853 19 93, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł. Tue free. 10 MUNICIPAL SCALES BUILDING This cute, freestanding building on the Main Square almost looks like something out of Hansel and Gretel. Originally constructed in 1534, it once housed hardware for weighing merchandise on its way to the market. The little that remains of the original furnishings is now located in the Historical Museum, and the building itself is used by the city’s civil registry to issue marriage certificates.QH/I‑7, Stary Rynek. 11 BAMBER MONUMENT This small statue of a traditionally-dressed Bamber peasant girl carrying jugs used in wine-making stands beside the historical Municipal Scales building. Created by sculptor Joseph Wackerle, who would later become Reich Culture Senator and Hitler’s favourite artist, Bamberka was unveiled in 1915 and originally stood over a well providing drinking water for horses. This iconic monument commemorates the Bambers, poor Catholic farmers from Bavaria (today south-east Germany), who came to the Poznań area in the hundreds in the early 18th century at the invitation of the city authorities to help rebuild villages devastated by war and plague. Known for the elaborate folk dresses worn by women, this ethnic group quickly integrated into Polish society, learning the language, identifying themselves as Polish and fighting for Polish national causes. An important contributor to Poznań’s history and culture, to find out more about this unique ethnic group, visit the Poznań Bamber Museum (p.50).QI‑7, Stary Rynek.

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Poznań Old Town Tour

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While Poznań is relatively spread out, the bulk of its tourist attractions are located within its historical Old Town and west towards the train tracks, where the Imperial Castle resides. This is the area covered by this walking tour; for places of interest further away from the centre, including Ostrów Tumski and Citadel Park, see relevant sections up ahead, on pages 38-43. The tour is approximately 2km long and can take as little as half an hour if you dash through it, though for the more inquisitive tourist a few hours seems more likely. Meandering through the Old Town streets is encouraged, as are breaks for coffee, beer, or your poison of choice in the city’s many cosy cafes and beer gardens. 1 LESSER BASILICA OF ST. STANISLAUS One of Poznań’s most impressive historic monuments, the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus, which it became in October 2010, was created as a Jesuit temple in the 17th century. It boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists, with some fine period ornamentation found in the chapels of the Holy Cross (which features a 16th-century crucifix), and the Virgin Mary (which has a precious copy of the painting of The Mother of God of Incessant Help). The Basilica hosts organ concerts played on an instrument dating from 1876 on Saturdays at 12:15. QI‑7, ul. Gołębia 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 69 50, www.fara. archpoznan.pl. Open 06:00-19:30. 2 UL. ŻYDOWSKA Originally called ul. Sukiennicza (Cloth Hall Street), this unassuming lane became the de facto centre of Jewish life as early as the 13th century, when the first Jewish settlers in Poznań were given plots of land here. Eventually renamed Judenstrasse and later ul. Żydowska (both meaning simply Jewish Street), it retained this character until the tragedy of the Holocaust.

While here, keep an eye out for the former Salomon Beniamin Latz Home for the Elderly and Infirm (ul. Żydowska 15/18). Established in 1908 after the Latz foundation swapped properties with the Jewish Community, the home took the place of three synagogues that used to exist at the address; meanwhile, the foundation’s former hospital at ul. Wroniecka was torn down to make room for the New Synagogue. If you manage to get in (the building is currently residential), traces of the in-house synagogue’s balcony can be seen in the stairwell. Another building of note is the former Jewish Library at ul. Żydowska 32, founded in 1904. Closer to the market square, the unassuming Church of the Most Holy Blood of Jesus (ul. Żydowska 34) is a testament to the vicious anti-Semitism that plagued the city for much of its history. As the sordid story goes, in 1399 several local Jews managed to get ahold of Christian sacramental bread and desecrated it by placing it on a table and stabbing it with a knife, whereupon blood burst from the wafers. Terrified, the Jews attempted to bury the hosts, only to find that the stubborn things would magically unbury themselves and float about in the air.

Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus

Photo by Zbigniew Ratajczak. Courtesy of City of Poznań

When a young shepherd found them floating above the marshes, a chapel was erected at the site - later rebuilt as the Corpus Christi Church - and the perps were harshly punished. This fabulous yarn was passed down among the city’s Christian populace for centuries, and when a mysterious blood-stained table was found hidden in the building at ul. Żydowska 34 in the 17th century, it was immediately deemed to be the piece of furniture involved in the infamous act of sacrilege and carried to the Corpus Christi Church in a procession of several thousand. The building itself was transformed into the Church of the Most Holy Blood of Jesus; dare to venture inside and you’ll be greeted with an 18th-century fresco portraying the Jewish trio at their nefarious task assisted by none other than the devil. The only good thing we can say here is that an antique plaque referring to the profanation of the hosts, which used to adorn the church’s facade, was taken down in 2005 by the archbishop; better late than never.QI‑6/7, ul. Żydowska.

ul. Żydowska

Poznań Old Town Tour

New Synagogue

Roweromaniak CC BY-SA 2.5

ALPHAS Widely considered the buildings that ruined ul. Święty Marcin, the ‘Alphas’ are an architectural nightmare from the deep People’s Republic, more due to their current dishevelled state and unfortunate contrast with neighbouring townhouses than due to the actual design. These five modernist high-rises connected by a sprawling two-level gallery with shops and services are actually very similar to the Hötorget buildings in Stockholm and high-rises along Prager Straße in Dresden. Born a bit later than their counterparts in other countries, they were built between 1965 and 1972, designed by Poznań architect Jerzy Liśniewicz. To make room for this new ‘cosmopolitan’ complex, 19th century houses had to be torn down, but the end result fulfilled its goals – it modernized the street and drew communist-era masses, impoverished and longing for more consumerist options, to its relatively well-stocked shop windows. Recently, the stretch of ul. Św. Marcin along the Alphas underwent a major overhaul, and is now a more welcoming, pedestrian-oriented area with outdoor art installations and a modest amount of greenery, if the visualisations are to be believed. The Alphas too are set for renovation, though complicating matters is the fact that each has a different owner. We‘re keeping our fingers crossed for results, as - for better or worse – the Alphas remain one of Poznań’s most characteristic structures.QF/G‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 40-72.

Photo by Radomil, CC BY-SA 3.0

3 NEW SYNAGOGUE Consecrated on September 5, 1907, the New Synagogue on ul. Wroniecka was once a much more lavish structure. Designed by Berlin architects Cremer & Wolfenstein at a cost of one million marks (to put things in perspective, the cost of the Imperial Castle came to five million), the synagogue boasted a floor plan based on the Greek cross, space for 1,200 worshippers (600 men, 600 women), and originally included a copper-plated dome. Following the outbreak of WWII the building was commandeered by the Nazis and redeveloped into a swimming pool and rehabilitation centre for Wehrmacht soldiers. After the war the synagogue continued to function as a municipal pool - leading some to jokingly brand it the ‘swimagogue’ - until the poor state of the building forced its closure. Returned to the Jewish community in 2002, a gallery was opened instead, sporadically hosting free exhibits. Though plans have been raised to adapt it into a community centre complete with prayer halls, kosher restaurant, and conference facilities, the small problem of raising what was once estimated at $50 million USD (the number may be higher now) proved too large an obstacle. More recently, plans have been made to convert the building into a commemorative museum, with or without an upscale hotel attached, but for now the synagogue continues to stand empty.QI‑6, ul. Wroniecka 11A.

4 CITY FORTIFICATIONS As a typical central European city, Poznań of course was once snugly encircled by city walls and a moat, with four gates guarding the passage into the narrow streets. Along the walls rose a number of defensive towers named after the guilds who were normally responsible for manning them: there was the Wheelwright Tower, Butcher Tower, and Cloth Tower, to name a few. Originally built sometime in the 13th century, the fortifications were unfortunately largely destroyed during the Swedish Deluge in the 17th century and later invasions of the city, and what was left was almost completely taken apart by the Prussians in the 19th and early 20th centuries to make room for new building projects. One of those was a rather splendid neo-

Poznań Old Town Tour Gothic fire station, which lovingly refurbished - survives to this day at ul. Masztalarska 3. Passing through its courtyard is a stretch of reconstructed city wall and two rebuilt towers: Baszta Strażacka (Firefighter Tower, not the original name), and Baszta Katarzynek, once part of a convent inhabited by Dominican nuns (then known as ‘Katarzynki’). Part of a third tower, Baszta Armatnia The Old Fire Station on ul. (Artillery Tower) stands on Masztalarska 3 (H-7). the Roman Wilhelmi Square. Completed in 2008, the resurrected city fortifications are a lovely place for a (short) stroll north of the main square. QH‑6, Between Skwer Rabbina Akiwy Egera & Skwer Romana Wilhelmiego. 5 ROYAL CASTLE Every European city worth its salt has a castle, and Poznań actually has two. Indeed, the 20th century ‘Zamek’ west of the Old Town is neither Poznań’s oldest, nor most important castle. Wander just one block west of the market square and you’ll find yourself at the foot of Góra Przemysła, crowned by Poznań’s former Royal Castle. Once the pride of Poznań, the original construction was begun approximately 1249 by Przemysł I - Duke of the Piast dynasty who had chosen Poz as his capital. Work on the royal residence was continued by his son, and by the time Kazimierz the Great (a prince at the time) moved in in the early 14th century, Poznań’s Royal Castle was the largest non-ecclesiastical building in Poland. Its fortunes took a serious turn for the worse in early 18th century when it was sacked several times in quick succession by the Swedes, the Russians, and then disgruntled nobles. Governor General Kazimierz Raczyński restored the medieval buildings and created a state archive here in 1783 - a function it would serve until WWII. During the Siege of 1945, the castle had the misfortune of being in the line of fire with the Nazi stronghold on Citadel Hill and that was that. In 1959 the decision was taken to rebuild Raczyński’s contribution to the hill, which today houses the Applied Arts Museum. Until recently, the Castle’s rich historical value as the seat of early Polish royalty, numerous royal births, weddings, and treaty signings seems to have been undervalued, but that’s in the past now. Between 2010 and 2016 the castle underwent a total restoration, and is now fully open, including the castle tower, observation decks, and Prince Przemysł I Hall.QH‑7, Góra Przemysła. Admission 12/8zł. Tue free.

Royal Castle

Photo by Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0

STARY BROWAR Housed in an old brewery dating from 1844, the awardwinning Stary Browar complex has been dubbed an art, leisure, and shopping extravaganza, and its success a sign of Poznań’s economic renaissance. Its opening in 2003 also marked a successful move away from out-of-town developments, and a new trend for inner-city regeneration projects. Originally home to the Huggerów Brewery, the building produced beer until 1980, then mineral water until 1998, when it was bought by the Fortis Group and a $66 million USD investment transformed it into the shopping and entertainment Mecca it is today. Home to tonnes of art and outstanding design details, Stary Browar also features a 5-star hotel, cinema, fitness club, dozens of restaurants, cafes, and bars, and over 200 retail spaces, in which you’ll find both name brands and popular chain stores.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 61 859 60 50, www.starybrowar5050.com. Open 09:0021:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

BOOK A TOUR

Poznań Old Town Tour 6 FRANCISCAN CHURCH Built in the years 1674-1728, there’s seemingly not much to this church just off the market square. Hidden behind the bland exterior, however, is an absolute explosion of Baroque over-indulgence, with colourful carved wood, stucco, and paintings by local monk Adam Swach. His brother, Antoni, designed the high altar and ornamented stalls, which literally jump out at you in their bright flamboyance. It’s a spectacle worth seeing, but visitors also flock to this church to see the Marian shrine, which has housed a famous picture of the Miracle-Working Virgin Mary, also known as the Lady of Poznań, for 300 years.QH‑7, ul. Franciszkańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 852 36 37, www.poznan.franciszkanie.pl. Open 06:30-19:00.

Franciscan Church

Photo by Mikołaj Borowicz. Courtesy of City of Poznań

NEON ART

POZNAŃ NIGHTINGALES NEON This playful neon art, portraying a flock of colourful nightingales sitting on a five-line music staff and lighting up in rapid succession, has been installed on the facade of the Philharmonic to honour its “Poznań Nightingales” choir. Founded in the early days of WWII by a nineteen-year-old named Stefan Stuligrosz, the men’s and boys’ choir initially staged underground performances in Poznań churches as an act of resistance against Nazi occupation. After the war they were taken under the wing of the Philharmonic, with Stuligrosz acting as the choir’s artistic director as well as the president of the Poznań Music Academy. The neon was created in 1974 by Antoni Rzyski and symbolises Stuligrosz (the yellow nightingale at the bottom of the staff, whose light doesn’t flicker off ) and his singers. It’s worth to note that the Poznań Nightingales are of no relation to the Polish Nightingales, another Poznań choir which has been implicated in a horrific child abuse scandal - just in case you were wondering.QF-7, ul. Św. Marcin 81. 36

7 PLAC WOLNOŚCI Though it is difficult to imagine now, Poznań’s large and typically empty ‘Freedom Square’ was once the heart of the city - a favourite spot of the upper classes for strolls and coffee. Originally named Wilhelmsplatz (William’s Square) in honour of King Frederick William III of Prussia, it was demarcated by the city’s new Prussian authorities at the very end of the 18th century, soon after Poland was wiped off the map by the three partitioning forces of Prussia, Russia, and Austria-Hungary. The main reason for a square this large? Big-headed higher-ups needed a representative space capable of containing an entire infantry regiment during military parades. In the years leading up to the Great War the square underwent numerous changes, as Polish and Prussian institutions vied for space and influence, encircling the space with buildings designed according to the latest architectural fashion; those included St. Adalbert’s Publishing House (now St. Adalbert’s Bookstore aka Księgarnia Św. Wojciecha, no. 1), the Haase Department Store (no. 4), the Brandt Department Store (no. 8), the Raczyński Library (no. 19), the Provincial Museum in Posen (now a National Museum building, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9), and Bazar Hotel (Al. Marcinkowskiego 10). A monument to the 1866 PrussoAustrian Battle of Nachod popped up, as did a figure of King Wilhelm III; both were torn down triumphantly when Poznań returned to Polish hands following WWI, and the square was given its current name. It wouldn’t last; after a blissful 20 interwar years, during which the square functioned as the cultural centre of Poznań, the square was dug open with trenches in preparation for WWII, and soon German forces once again marched in, renaming the square - you guessed it - Wilhelmsplatz. After the war (and another name change), Plac Wolności was rebuilt according to the concept of Milewski and Skupniewicz, with trees cut down and a Hygieia statue (which had been placed on the square in 1908 to commemorate the expansion of the city waterworks) moved in front of the Raczyński Library. In 2005 a large underground parking lot was added, and in 2012 Freedom Square’s most recognizable landmark was unveiled - the Freedom Fountain (Fontanna Wolności), a geometric structure with two 10-metre wings (or sails) made out of glass. Nowadays the square is the go-to for protests and demonstrations.QG/H‑7, Plac Wolności.

Poznań Old Town Tour

Plac Wolności

Photo by HRS Poland

8 OKRĄGLAK Looking for remnants of the People’s Republic? Cast your camera to the western end of ul. Grudnia (A-2), where the imposing Okrąglak (Rotunda) presides over a four-point intersection. This cylindrical marvel is one of Poznań’s defining icons and has been a listed building since 2003. Constructed between 1948 and 1954 this beast is a leading example of Polish modernism, built to a blueprint by Marek Leykam. Originally slated to be ten storeys, this eight floor masterpiece once housed Poznań’s top department store, and it was here that during the lean years of communism locals would queue to buy ‘luxury’ products unavailable elsewhere. After years of abject neglect, in 2011-2012 the Okrąglak was restored and converted into 51,000 square metres of A-class office space.QF‑7, ul. Mielżyńskiego 14.

9 IMPERIAL CASTLE (ZAMEK) More a palace than a ‘castle,’ work began on Poznań’s fearsome ‘Zamek’in 1905 to serve as the provincial residence of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Designed in the neo-Romanesque style by Franz Schwechten, the west wing held Wilhelm’s living quarters, the east wing his immaculate throne room, with the northern part of the complex consisting of service rooms and beautiful gardens based on the Alhambra’s Courtyard of the Lions. The Kaiser got the keys in 1910 but didn’t stay long before WWI and the following Wielkopolska Uprising resulted in a Polish Poznań once again. Between the wars the Zamek became the seat of Poznań University, before the Third Reich swooped in and Albert Speer, Hitler’s pet architect, transformed the tower chapel into the Fuehrer’s office, and the second floor into the residence of Arthur Greiser (Nazi governor of the district). The castle was badly damaged during the Soviet liberation and there was even a post-war campaign to have the structure bulldozed. In the end the drastic measures stopped with reducing the principal tower to a third of its original height.

Imperial Castle

Okrąglak

Photo by Przemysław Turlej

Photo by Adam Borusiak. Courtesy of City of Poznań

Used by the University in the two years following the war, and then as the seat of local government, the Zamek has operated as a cultural centre since 1962, hosting hundreds of theatre performances, concerts, film screenings and other events in its palatial halls each year. The basement houses the 1956 Uprising Museum, and throughout the large complex visitors will find several restaurants, cafes and bars, including the popular Dubliner Irish Pub. Guided tours of the castle in English are available for 150zł but must be booked in advance by calling +48 61 646 52 88.QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.ckzamek.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. Free admission without tour. 37

Ostrów Tumski

Just north-east of the centre of Poznań sits Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island) - the island where Poznań was founded, and “where Poland began” in the words of Pope John Paul II. According to the prolific legend, three Slav brothers known as Lech, Czech and Rus met on this tiny island after not seeing each other for many years. To commemorate their reunion the brothers named the place ‘Poznać,’ after the Polish word for ‘to meet.’ From there the island thrived, with a castle erected in the 9th century and Ostrów Tumski becoming a major centre of the Piast state. More than a millennium ago one of Poland’s first rulers, Mieszko I, ushered the country into Catholicism here and soon after the first bishopric was established in 968. The first iteration of the Cathedral of Poznań was built in the second half of the 10th century, and in the island’s thousandyear history it has been home to kings and bishops alike. Remains of 19th century Prussian fortifications are still visible on the Cybina riverside, easily viewable from the Jordan Bridge (I-3). In more recent times the Communists showed their disdain for the Catholic Church’s heavy presence in Poznań by building a road across the island that bisected the Archbishop’s garden (what jerks!). A trip to Ostrów Tumski not only makes a peaceful respite from the tackiness and tourist noise of Stary Rynek, but also serves as an important crash course on early Polish history and Poznań’s role in the country’s birth as a nation. Taking that task on as its very mission, in fact, is the new Porta Posnania Centre, which straddles the river (with its own bridge) between Ostrów Tumski and Śródka, and should be considered the mandatory starting point for all visitors before carrying on to the magnificent Poznań Cathedral itself. 38

1 PORTA POSNANIA INTERACTIVE HERITAGE CENTRE OF CATHEDRAL ISLAND Opened in early 2014, this modern culture complex symbolically connects Poznań’s two oldest districts - Ostrów Tumski and Śródka - via a covered ‘skywalk’ bridge between the main exhibition building and the Cathedral Lock - a restored section of the former Prussian river fortifications. The main building is actually on the Śródka side of the Cybina River, and presents the fascinating history of the area from medieval times to the modern day, with a dollop of Polish-Catholic propaganda, via a rather gimmicky combo of audioguide and interactive multimedia displays. The touring route concludes by leading visitors across the ‘skywalk’ straight into Ostrów Tumski itself, making this the ideal starting point for exploring the district. Audioguides are available in English, German, French, Spanish, Czech, Russian, and Ukrainian, with three specially designed audiotour routes - one for individuals, one for groups, and one for families - that make the experience worthwhile for everyone, especially kids. Topping it off is a souvenir shop and a lovely rooftop terrace (open during the warm season only) that offers unique views of Poznań Cathedral and the surrounding area. QL‑6, ul. Gdańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 647 76 34, www.bramapoznania.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission for the permanent exhibition 18/12zł. Family ticket (up to 5 people) 36zł. Group tickets (from 10 people) 11zł per person. Audio guide 5/3zł. U

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2 POZNAŃ CATHEDRAL The most stunning site on Ostrów Tumski is certainly Peter & Paul Cathedral, more commonly called ‘Poznań Cathedral,’ which ‘Cathedral Island’ takes its name from. Originally erected way, way back in 968, this was the first cathedral in Poland, and has had a storied history. As it was razed, rebuilt, and remodelled numerous times over the centuries, each resulted in the addition of a new architectural style: a 1622 fire led to a Baroque finish, while a 1722 fire ushered in a change to neo-Classicism. During the 1945 battle to liberate Poznań, 65 percent of the Cathedral again burned down, exposing the building’s buried Gothic elements and leading to its restoration in the style visitors see today. The interior is a trove of sacral and historical treasures, surrounded by twelve different chapels, including the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, which has several outstanding examples of Renaissance art (the tombstones of the Górka family and Bishop Benedykt Izbieński, to be specific) and the Baroque altar houses a miraculous crucifix brought to the Cathedral from the former Wrocławska town gate. The Golden Chapel was designed as the mausoleum of the first Polish monarchs and houses the sarcophagi of Kings Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry; the two kings are also depicted in a bronze monument together, above which is a painting by January Suchodolski showing Mieszko I, the instigator of Catholicism in Poland, destroying pagan idols. The chapel is indeed thoroughly golden, but to fully admire the glitz you must drop a coin into an absurd contraption, whereupon the illumination will come on. The eye-catching high altar at the centre of the Cathedral is a 14th/15th polyptych depicting Our Lady surrounded by 14 female saints, while the outer wings feature eight paintings depicting the Passion of the Christ. The Cathedral’s lavish Baroque pulpit is equally stunning and dates to 1720. Also worth noting are the Cathedral’s five Gothic and early Renaissance bronze tomb slabs,

Hyćka

Rondo Śródka

St. John of Jerusalem Church Outside the Wall

which originated at the famed Nuremburg workshop of Herman and Peter Vischer. The slabs were originally on the Cathedral floor to cover the entrances to tombs, but were later mounted on pillars and chapel walls. Stolen during the war, the slabs were returned to Poznań in 1993 and are back on display. Visit the vestry to request entry to the crypt, where you’ll see evidence of the pre-Romanesque and Romanesque versions of the Cathedral, and a 10th century baptismal font most likely used to baptise the first Polish sovereign and his subjects. Excavations here also unearthed two tombs, most likely of the first Polish monarchs Mieszko I and King Bolesław Chrobry. The second crypt houses an exhibition of artefacts found during the excavation, and it also leads to the crypt of the Poznań archbishops. Be aware that while the lights in the crypt work for free (no coins!), they are motionactivated, so if you stand and look too long, you’ll suddenly end up in the dark.QK‑6, Ostrów Tumski 17, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra.archpoznan.pl. Open 09:00-16:00. Admission 4/3zł. II

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Photo by Radosław Maciejewski. Courtesy of City of Poznań

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Mural on Rynek Śródecki (L-6)

Once you’ve explored Ostrów Tumski, the next natural step is to cross the red Jordan Bridge over into the ancient - and irresistibly cute - Śródka neighbourhood. Once its own town, Śródka was named in honour of its weekly Wednesday market (‘Środa’ means ‘Wednesday’ in Polish), and records suggest the small enclave had urban features and its own autonomous government as early as the mid-1200s. The presence of Dominican monks, along with the regular market, gave Śródka prominence in the area, which unfortunately didn’t last long; the monks picked up and moved across the Warta River, and Przemysł II (who subsequently became King of Poland) turned the city over to the control of the Bishopric in the 13th century. Suddenly reduced to the role of supplier to Ostrów Tumski, Śródka would continue to slide in prominence as the nearby city of Poznań grew. Śródka had a revitalization of sorts in the 17th century when orders of Phillippines and Reformists swept in and established churches and residences in the city, yet Śródka was nonetheless absorbed into Poznań in 1800. During Prussian times the city was part of a fortified zone that didn’t improve its fate, nor did the regular occurrence of floods and fires. During World War II much of the city’s centre at Rynek Śródecki (the location around St. Margaret’s Church) was destroyed, and the arrival of the People’s Republic of Poland, which slapped a garish highway across the Archbishop’s gardens and Ostrów Tumski, didn’t improve the area either. But much like Ostrówek, Śródka is slowly experiencing a noticeable revitalization.

3 CHURCH OF THE VIRGIN MARY This small Gothic church was built in 1432-1448 and is modelled on the West Pomeranian building style, with a three-nave hall, star vaulting, and polychromatic decorations. The altar was designed by Wacław Taranczewski in 1954. The adjoining building with the crowstep gables is a Late Gothic Psalteria, dating to 1518, which contained flats for the clergy. Unfortunately the church is closed for renovation until mid 2020, so it is presently impossible to get inside.QK‑6, ul. Panny Marii, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra.archpoznan.pl. 4 ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM Adjacent to the Cathedral is the large Lubrański Academy building, once home to Bishop Jan Lubrański’s institute of higher learning and today the Museum of the Archdiocese. The first floor is devoted to temporary exhibits, while the next two floors are filled with all manner of religious art and relics, including the Sword of Saint Peter, numerous statues and paintings of the Madonna, Jesus, and various saints, plus well-preserved robes and heavily-bejewelled rings from Poznan’s long line-up of bishops. QK‑6, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum. poznan.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun, Mon. Admission 10/7zł, family ticket 17zł. N 5 GENIUS LOCI ARCHEOLOGICAL PARK Genius Loci gives a different view on Poznań’s medieval genesis by unearthing, reconstructing, and offering insight into the lives of those early individuals who inhabited the island one thousand years ago. Explore multimedia displays and documentary films, and brave the glass walkways while peering down at the city’s original walls and embankments. The audioguide (included in the price) comes in both Polish and English and helps explain how Poznań took shape centuries ago.QK‑6, ul. Ks. I. Posadzego 3, tel. (+48) 61 852 21 67, www.rezerwat. muzarp.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Fri, Sat 10:0018:00; Sun 10:00-15:00; closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł, family ticket 10zł. Sun free.

There are also some surprisingly good eats to be found here - while our all-time favourite quirky eatery Raj (p.58) has moved out a few months ago, there is still Na Winklu (p.66), which offers delicious pierogi with some exciting non-traditional fillings, and Hyćka (p.66), which serves traditional Wielkopolska home cooking. Genius Loci Archeological Park

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Citadel Park Just north of Poznań’s Old Town sits Winiary Hill and 89 hectares of picture-perfect green space known as Citadel Park. Much like any coveted location in Poland, this scenic overlook has a long history that involves multiple name changes, military battles and even some old-fashioned mystery. For visitors, the park offers not only beautiful promenades and leafy city escapes, but also a plethora of monuments, museums and historical tales. The hill itself didn’t become notable until Prussia took over Poland in 1793 and Poznań suddenly found itself in a strategic location on the Prussian-Russian border, less than 300km from Berlin. A fort seemed in order, and design responsibilities were given over to the exasperatinglynamed General Carl Wilhelm Georg von Grolman. Work began in 1828 after moving two villages - Winiary and Bonin - to make room, and continued over the next decade. The result was an impressive polygonal brick fortress with 1.3-1.8 metre-thick walls, observation towers, artillery decks and even a moat, making it the central element of the city’s defences. Despite the efforts that went into the construction, and seemingly opportune wars with Denmark, Austria and France, the fort saw little military action, instead serving as a military prison throughout the 19th century. By the time WWI arrived, the fort was too outdated for modern warfare and played no role until it was captured by insurgents during the Wielkopolska Uprising in 1918, after which it was home to Polish army units throughout the inter-war years. When Nazi Germany occupied Poland in 1939 the fort returned to its role as a POW camp (British, Russian and Polish soldiers ended up here) until it was thrust into the history books as the final Nazi stronghold during the Battle of Poznań in 1945, finally captured by the Soviets on February 23, 1945. After the war, the ravaged and obsolete fort was largely dismantled, contributing its bricks to help rebuild local housing estates and decimated cities like Warsaw. Yet plenty of the fort still remains, and those intrepid enough to wander off the park’s paths will be rewarded with a close-up look at history (this is where a guide comes in

British Military Cemetery

handy, as ours pointed out locations of strategic Russian movements, how the fort was breached, and even the charred bricks where a group of the last German soldiers evidently met their end). Under communism, the fort and surrounding area were given a new strategic purpose when Winiary Hill was turned into the chummy ‘Monument Park of Polish-Russian Friendship and Brotherhood’ in 1962, and a Russian cemetery and Red Army memorial soon found a home here. Re-dubbed ‘Citadel Hall’ in 1992 after the regime finally fell, today visitors will find this former military stronghold is home to art installations, monuments, several museums, cemeteries and large outdoor events. There are few better ways to spend an afternoon in Poznań than exploring all there is to see and do in the city’s largest park.

WHAT TO SEE 1 POZNAŃ ARMY MUSEUM Recently re-opened after a long renovation, the museum provides visitors with the chance to learn more about the city’s military history, with a particular focus on the Second World War and the inter-war period. A large number of items from these times are on display, including various newspaper cuttings, weapons, photos and uniforms. But other eras are covered too, with some artefacts - such as old bullets and army storage devices - dating back as far as 1897. Note that the ticket also includes entrance to the Museum of Armaments, also located in Citadel Park.QI‑4, Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. (+48) 663 86 64 14, www.wmn. poznan.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 8/5zł, Tue free; ticket also valid for the nearby Museum of Armaments. U

GETTING THERE

WWII destruction

If the weather is nice there’s no reason not to walk to Citadel Park from the Rynek. The stroll is just under 2km and should take 25-30 minutes. Those who prefer an (arguably) quicker route can grab bus number 174, 176, 190, or 603 from ‘Wielka’ to ‘Garbary’.

Citadel Park 2 THE BELL OF PEACE AND FRIENDSHIP AMONG NATIONS Erected in 1986, the ‘Bell of Peace and Friendship Among Nations’ was installed too late to spare Poznań from a largely turbulent 20th century, but it plays a role in the remembering when it’s rung on holidays and anniversaries such as Liberation Day (February 23rd) when the Germans capitulated at the fort during World War II. Weighing 850 kg, the dove-embossed bell hangs 10m above the ground and can allegedly be heard from 10km away.QI‑4, Park Cytadela. 3 BRITISH MILITARY CEMETERY Citadel Park hosts several cemeteries, but the one typically of most interest to tourists is British Military Cemetery (also known as the Commonwealth Cemetery). Why? It’s here that you’ll find the graves of several of the men involved in what is now known as “the Great Escape” (it wasn’t just a movie, folks!). In addition, the cemetery houses graves of servicemen from WWI (all of whom died in various parts of Poland as POWs), and those who died in bombing operations over what is now the Polish city of Szczecin.QH‑4, Park Cytadela. Open from dawn till dusk. 4 MONUMENT TO THE HEROES OF THE POZNAŃ CITADEL One of the most noticeable features of Citadel Park is the Soviet Obelisk located prominently at the top of the grand staircase as you enter the park from Aleja Armii Poznań (H-4). The giant Socialist Realism column is dedicated to the Russian soldiers killed during the 1945 siege of the fort, and it’s most interesting aspect is perhaps the one you can no longer see: the large red star affixed to the top which disappeared in the dead of night after the fall of communism in Poland in 1989. Official complaints by the Russian Embassy to track down the star and its thieves were, unsurprisingly, largely ignored by police, and for years the public was left to speculate what became of the red emblem (a rumour that the star was filled with jewels proved to be one popular urban myth). In recent years, however, a local journalist looking into the mystery was able to swiftly solve it: local firemen had removed the star using their rescue ladders. They fessed up and turned it over without consequence to the city, which has plans to restore it and eventually put it on display at the Historical Museum of Poznań.QH‑4, Park Cytadela. 5 MUSEUM OF ARMAMENTS The remains of this Prussian fort (which was used as a war laboratory to produce gunpowder and shells during World War II) prove to be the perfect location for the Museum of Armaments, which features displays of various weaponry and ammunition as well as photos of battles from Poznań’s history. Most interesting for military buffs however is the outdoor exhibition laden with a whole host of war machinery including a T-34 tank, a ‘Katyusha’ rocket launcher, bombers and a MIG-15.

Museum of Armaments

QH‑3, Park Cytadela, tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www. wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, Tue free; ticket also valid for the nearby Poznań Army Museum. 6 HEADLESS FIGURES Unveiled as part of Poznań’s 750th birthday celebrations in 2002, this massive troop of towering, headless cast iron figures marching aimlessly across Citadel Park is officially titled “Unrecognised” (“Nierozpoznani”). 112 in all, each measuring 2 metres tall, the odd installation is the work of local arts grad and international art star Magdalena Abakanowicz, who is keeping mum on its meaning. Those with ties to Chicago might recognise a similar installation in Grant Park, while a few more of Abakanowicz’s headless fright patrol can be found wandering lost in the courtyard of the Imperial Castle.QI‑3, Park Cytadela. 7 SOVIET CEMETERY Located on Citadel Hill alongside other military necropoleis, the Soviet Cemetery is, as you’d imagine, where the Soviet troops who died in and around the city are buried. Understandably well cared for during communist times, the cemetery might still arouse some resentment among the Polish populace, but is generally regarded simply as a historical site.QH‑4, Al. Armii Poznań (Citadel Park). Open from dawn till dusk.

Archiwum Urzędu Miasta Poznania, photo D. Krakowiak

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Of Poznań’s many lakes it’s Malta - to the east - that is the best known, and its surroundings are well worth further investigation. Formed in 1952 as a result of damming the Cybina, this 2.2km long lake is the largest man-made lake in the city, with an average depth of 3.1 metres. Surrounded by parks and woodland, it is today one of the principal recreation areas in the region - in both summer and winter - with an ice-rink, ski slope (the first in former communist Europe), a world-class regatta course, zoo, water park, and dozens of other attractions, including several historical sights. Just east of the centre, but miles from the madness of the market square, if you’re in town to decompress, head to Malta. ADRENALINE ALPINE COASTER A 500 metre long roller coaster filled with twisting loops (even a 360 degree twist) that hauls screaming visitors around the track at 40km per hour.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00. Opening hours depend on the weather. 1 ride in a 1-person cart 10zł; 3 rides 20zł. 1 ride in a 2-person cart 15zł; 3 rides 30zł.

Malta Skating Rink

MALTA SKATING RINK (LODOWISKO MALTA) An indoor rink at Lake Malta with skate rental. For something a bit different visit on the weekend between 19:00 and 23:00, when DJs enter the ring and play ‘hot hits with hot girls.’ QM‑8, ul. Jana Pawła II (corner of ul. Abpa A. Baraniaka), tel. (+48) 61 877 03 54, www. malta.poznan.pl. Open 08:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-23:00. Season starts in mid-November and ends mid-March. Weekdays 9-6/6-4zł, weekends 11/8zł. MALTA SKI Two ski slopes, one 150 metres in length, the other over 30 metres. Hours depend heavily on the weather. Private lessons with an English-speaking instructor are available for only 90zł Mon-Fri before 14:30.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:0021:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00. Prices are 29-49zł for normal passes, 15-39zł for reduced passes. Private lessons with an English speaking instructor are 140zł (requires booking two days in advance). Ski and snowboard rental is included in price.

Malta Ski

MALTESE BATHS Located on the north shore of Lake Malta this year-round facility offers sport pools (one Olympic-sized and another with a 10-metre diving tower), a water park (a series of 16 pools including a wave pool and children’s play pool), and 13 water slides along with two wild rivers. There is also the World of Saunas (14 saunas, two of which are outdoors, and a vapour bath) and, most recently, a full spa complex (Spa 1306) with underground thermal springs, offering therapeutic and beauty baths including Turkish Hammam and Rasul mud bath, massage, hydromassage, rehabilitation, Pollogen slimming and rejuvenating treatments, and more from the fully trained staff.QP‑8, ul. Termalna 1, tel. (+48) 61 222 61 61, www. termymaltanskie.com.pl. Open 06:00-23:00, Sun 07:0023:00; SPA open 10:00-21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-21:00. Prices start at 12/10zł for sports pools, 22/17zł for water spark, 27/22zł for saunas.

GETTING TO LAKE MALTA Lake Malta is situated just to the east of the city centre, and Rondo Śródka - at the lake’s northwest corner, is the best place to access it. Below are the public transport options from three main points in the centre. Alternatively, a taxi from the centre to the north shore will cost about 30-35zł. From the main train station (D-9): Take tram number 6 from the ‘Poznań Główny’ stop (walk just past the Avenida shopping centre going east) directly to ‘Baraniaka’. The journey takes about 14 minutes. From the Old Town Square: Take tram number 3, 16, or 17 from either ‘Pl. Wielkopolski’ (H-6) or ‘Małe Garbary’ (I-6) to ‘Rondo Śródka’.QM‑6. 45

Kids & Families

Photo by Łukasz Gdak, CTK TRAKT

Tots in tow? That might mean less time marveling at historical landmarks and more time hunting down ice cream or hot chocolate, and wining (and dining) replaced by whining, but Poznań offers plenty of ways to keep little ones occupied. Here we’ve compiled our recommendations for making your trip enjoyable for the whole family; and should you urgently need to find the closest playground, we’ve marked those on our maps as well . First up, a trusted crowd-pleaser: everyone loves seeing the mechanical billy goats emerging from a window on the Town Hall tower (p.27) to butt heads at noon (daily), and it might be the only thing your kids really remember from your Old Town tour. Nearby, the Croissant Museum offers a hands-on opportunity to learn about Poznań’s favourite pastry, and Blubry6D will take kids on a trip through local legends while simultaneously melting everyone’s eyes (oh, the fluorescence). If you’re determined to get some serious sightseeing in, consider visiting the Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre in Ostrów Tumski (p.38), which has prepared a special audioguide tour for children ages 5-11.

POZNAŃ CROISSANT MUSEUM Considering how much of a Poznań trademark St. Martin’s croissants are, it’s surprising that a museum dedicated to them has only just recently popped up in the city. The Croissant Museum hosts numerous daily and weekly shows, one of which is in English and takes place at 13:45 Sat-Sun; the 50 minute session includes a multimedia presentation, legends, a tour of the historic museum building, a chance to bake croissants using traditional tools, and - of course - a tasting.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 41/2 (entrance from ul. Klasztorna 23), tel. (+48) 690 07 78 00, www.rogalowemuzeum.pl. Admission 19zł, 17zł/person for families.

For good, old fashioned outdoor fun, we recommend a day at Lake Malta (p.44), which boasts a plethora of attractions like the year-round Maltese Baths water park and a roller coaster, an artificial ski slope and ice-skating rink in the winter, or, in the warm season, the Pyrland Park ropes course, a carousel, mini golf, tobogganing, and a mini railway which will take you straight to the New Zoo, plus standard swimming and paddling. Check out the listings in this section, and best of luck! 46

Poznań Croissant Museum

CHOCOLATE MUSEUM Joining the Croissant Museum is another sweet temptation under an educational guise: the Chocolate Museum where kids of all ages (including those quite grown and greying) can learn about cacao tree plantations, the history of chocolate, and chocolate-making techniques while sampling decadent creations. The guided tours last an estimated 50 minutes and include workshops during which participants create their own chocolate bars - to take home, of course (if you can refrain from wolfing them down on the spot).QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 12, tel. (+48) 502 45 41 77, www.muzeumczekolady.edu.pl. Open 10:0018:00. 35zł/person, group of more than ten 29zł/person.

Poznań Kaiserpanorama

POZNAŃ KAISERPANORAMA Think that explaining cassette tapes to your kids is difficult? Try to get them to wrap their heads around this crazy 1920s entertainment system. Peer inside the Kaiserpanorama (called Fotoplastikon in Polish) for a collection of stereoscopic photographs of turn-of-the-century Poznań. Ooh, 3D!QG‑7, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. (+48) 61 854 07 52, www.poznan.pl/mim/wm/. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. Admission 5/2zł, family ticket 10zł, group ticket 20zł. Muzeum Czekolady

BLUBRY6D If you ever thought of dropping some acid with your young children, here’s the legal way to do it. Put on a pair of 3D glasses and immerse yourself in a hallucinatory, brightneon labyrinth of spastic trees, deranged mushrooms, and dizzying miscellany while listening to a narration about two Poznań legends (offered in English, Polish, German, and Spanish). Do try to stay focused, as the staff will quiz you at the end of each room - the punishment for failing, presumably, is to leave you forever wandering the LSD maze from hell. The whole experience lasts around 30 minutes, but you’re almost guaranteed to lose all sense of space and time.QI‑6, ul. Wroniecka 6, tel. (+48) 61 307 04 46, www.blubry6d.pl. Admission 17/15zł. U

Blubry6D

THE ZOOS

THE OLD ZOO (STARE ZOO) Dating back to 1874, the Old Zoo still has some picturesque vintage pavilions, but most of the critters have been carted off to the New Zoo, and the Old Zoo has largely been reshaped as a public park. There is, however, a modern Reptile House here, where you can see Komodo dragons, pythons, and caimans.QD‑7, ul. Zwierzyniecka 19, tel. (+48) 61 848 08 47, www.zoo. poznan.pl. Open 09:00-19:00. Admission free; 8/6zł for the Reptile House. THE NEW ZOO (NOWE ZOO) The much larger of the two Poznań zoos, the New Zoo houses over 2,000 beasts representing 140 species, many of which live in recreations of their natural habitats. Hightlights include the modern elephant house. Qul. Krańcowa 81 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 877 35 17, www.zoo.poznan.pl. Open 9:00-16:00. October-February admission 10zł. U 47

Museums

Porta Posnania, p.38 | Photo: Łukasz Gdak / CTK TRAKT

1956 UPRISING MUSEUM The Zamek is an impressive building alright, but pride of place goes to the 1956 Uprising exhibition, honouring the first armed resistance the communist regime faced. Hidden down a side entrance, this basement masterpiece features stretchers used to carry the wounded, a tank, a display of arms and rifles, a room of Socialist propaganda posters, a typical Poznań family’s flat from the 1950s and a direct copy of a detention cell. Most poignant of all, though, is the space set aside for 13 year old Roman Strzałkowski, the youngest to die in the troubles. Exhibits include his harmonica and domino set, and newspaper clippings showing Strzałkowski picking up prizes for his piano skills. QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 852 94 64, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł. Tue free. U APPLIED ARTS MUSEUM Housed in the Royal Castle of Poznań, this museum has recently undergone huge changes which shifted the focus from medieval craftwork and princely decorations exclusively to applied arts, rolling out a 2000-piece exhibition of furniture, fabrics, ceramics, glassware, weaponry, and clothing from around the world. For those more interested in the actual history of the place, we recommend skipping the arts and checking out the (sparse) ground-floor exhibition dedicated to the castle and its founder, Duke Przemysł II, as well as climbing the seasonally-open tower. QH‑7, Góra Przemysła 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 35, www. mnp.art.pl. Open 10:00-16:30; Fri 10:30-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:30-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/1-8zł. Tue free. 48

ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Housed in the beautiful 16th-century Górka Palace, Poznań’s Archaeology Museum contains a collection of 42,000 rare and mystifying objects that chart life in North Africa and prehistoric Poland. The first part of the museum takes you through the earliest settlements in the region, with life-sized figures as well as miniature dioramas depicting life from the Stone Age to the Iron Age. The other permanent exhibits include ‘Death and Life in Ancient Egypt,’ ‘Archeology of Sudan,’ and ‘Rock Art of North Africa.’QI‑7, ul. Wodna 27 (Pałac Górków), tel. (+48) 61 852 82 51, www.muzarp. poznan.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 12:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł, family ticket 20zł. Sat free. Guided tours by prior arrangement 70zł. Free audio guides avaliable in English. U ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM See Ostrów Tumski, p.38.QK‑6, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun, Mon. Admission 10/7zł, family ticket 17zł. N CHOCOLATE MUSEUM See Poznań with the Kids, p. 46.QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 12, tel. (+48) 502 45 41 77, www.muzeumczekolady.edu.pl. Open 10:00-18:00. 35zł/person, group of more than ten 29zł/person.

@polandinyourpocket

Museums LITERARY MUSEUM OF HENRYK SIENKIEWICZ Winner of the 1905 Nobel Prize in Literature, Sienkiewicz is best known internationally as the author of Quo Vadis, a birth-of-Christianity epic that has been translated into 50 languages. This museum dedicated to his legacy is located in a house that once belonged the Italian architect Jean Baptiste Quadro (that’s his bust you can see outside), and the collection is the life work of Ignacy Moś, who started collecting Sienkiewicz memorabilia after helping to free Sienkiewicz’s only son from the Gestapo. The exhibition includes the author’s Lennon-style specs, post-mortem facial and hand casts, correspondences, and a collection of his novels including an English version of Quo Vadis dating from 1899.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 84, tel. (+48) 61 852 89 71, www.bracz.edu.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 08:00-16:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 4/2zł, Sat free. N MODELS OF POZNAŃ A huge model that shows Poznań in its form as presented in Brau-Hogenburg’s illustration sketched in 1618. Constructed over a period of six years the model takes up a space of 50m2 and is built on a scale of 1:150. The decorative details are impressive, and you can expect lots of kids as well as anoraked model enthusiasts pulling up the school seats around it as they wait for the show to begin. As the lights dim a recorded commentary begins and visitors are taken through the areaby-area story of Poznań’s development. Foreigners are given headsets broadcasting heavily accented commentary in the language of their choice, though this is at times drowned out by hilarious background noise that includes medieval soldiers screaming in agony. The museum’s other models include Poznań in the 10th century and a touchable model of the main square aimed at blind visitors.QH‑7, ul. Ludgardy 1, tel. (+48) 61 855 14 35, www.makieta.poznan.pl. Open 11:00-17:00. Admission 19zł. N MUSEUM OF ARMAMENTS See Citadel Park, p.41.QH‑3, Park Cytadela, tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł. Tue free. Guided English-language tour 60zł. Tickets bought either here or at the Poznań Army Museum are valid for both museums.

ENIGMA: POZNAŃ’S WWII CODEBREAKERS The vital role played by Polish exiles during the Battle of Britain is today common knowledge, as is the role Polish forces played in breaking the siege of Monte Cassino, and the daring raid on Dieppe in 1942. A lesser known Polish contribution towards the Allied victory in 1945, but equally significant, is the battle that took place inside the minds of Poland’s finest academics to crack the Enigma code. It all began in Poznań, namely in the mathematics class of the university. Ace students Jerzy Różycki, Marian Rejewski, and Henryk Zygalski came to the attention of Polish intelligence services on account of their excellent German skills and sharp mathematical minds. Recruited to attend cryptology courses in Warsaw alongside 17 other Poznań University alumni, the three were set to work in 1932 on cracking German ciphers. It was here they made the first vital Engima breakthrough using a mathematical theorem since described as ‘the theorem that won WWII.’ On the day before the Nazi invasion of Poland the three fled to Romania where they immediately sought contact with the Allies. Originally they turned up at the British Embassy in Bucharest, but having been told to ‘come back in a few days’ decided to try their luck with the French instead. This proved more successful and from there they found themselves in France, working in Cadix, a secret intelligence cell operating in the unoccupied south. With the risk of discovery by the Germans growing greater the team were forced to flee. Różycki drowned at sea in 1942 after the boat carrying him sank under suspicious circumstances. Zygalski and Rejewski eventually made it to England, where they were employed in Boxmoor, cracking simple codes for the rest of WWII. In spite of having done the groundwork that broke the original Enigma code, their knowledge was not called on by the American and British codebreakers who were cracking new and improved Enigma codes at Bletchley Park, and the vital Polish contribution has been allowed to fade in the memory, a situation not helped by films like 2001’s Enigma or 2015’s The Imitation Game.

Models of Poznań

An Enigma Museum is actually in the works in Poznań, though the completion date keeps getting shifted; as we’re sending this guide off to print, the aim is for 2021. 49

Museums POZNAŃ TRADE FAIRS

While many foreign visitors to Central Europe may be unfamiliar with Poznań, businesspeople involved in foreign trade are likely to be more than aware of the city. That’s because Poznań is Poland’s trade fair capital with the title justified by the country’s largest fair grounds, where the biggest and best fairs in Poland take place each year. Though Poznań’s rich trading tradition can be traced back to the thirteenth century, the true predecessor of today’s fair was the 1911 East German Industrial Exhibition, which showcased Germany’s achievements in annexed Polish territories. Six years later the Union of Merchant Associations, comprising merchants from Greater Poland and Eastern Pomerania, decided to develop a specialised cyclical expo based on the successful model of the Leipzig Trade Fair. This idea reached fruition on May 28, 1921, when the first Poznań Fair took place. Since then, the Fair’s fortunes have risen and fallen according to the political and economic changes that periodically moved through Poland and Europe: from playing a key role in re-integrating economic activities in the newly independent second Polish Republic, to the near-demise of the fair complex during WWII air raids (which destroyed the iconic Upper Silesian Tower), and to a new start in the post-war communist state. Though the 1950s were a time of uncertainty and tension, with the fair closed down for a few years due to the Cold War atmosphere, the ‘60s proved to be a period of robust growth, so much so that organisers started running out of exposition space. From 1973 on, the event was broken up into smaller chunks, as more specialised fairs branched off from the main expo. Currently, the Poznań International Fair constitutes over 60% of the Polish exhibition industry, hosting some 10,000 exhibitors a year - approximately a quarter of them foreign - in the complex’s sixteen halls, which add up to 150,000 square meters of space. The total number of annual visitors attending the sixty or so trade fair events - everything from welding to horticulture, logistics to beach fashion - usually reaches half a million. 50

NATIONAL MUSEUM A large and excellent museum with a rich collection of modern Polish art (including interesting Impressionist works) in the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian, Dutch, and Flemish paintings in the connected old building. The museum also holds the largest collection of Spanish art (including Zurbaran and Ribera) in Poland and plenty of Polish art from the 16th century onwards. In addition, a Monet painting stolen in 2000 was recently recovered and is back on display. Selected paintings have extensive English explanations about the artist and topic.QH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. (+48) 61 856 80 00, www. mnp.art.pl. Open 09:00-15:30; Fri 10:30-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:30-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/1-8zł, Sat free. N PHARMACY MUSEUM One of the smallest museums in Poznań, and certainly the trickiest to find – go through the courtyard, ring the doorbell then climb to the second floor. The series of rooms here are filled with rusty pots, scales, vials and cast iron mortars from the 17-19th centuries. While once you’d find yourself wandering around in ignorance, the museum now offers small guides in English, German, and French. One room has been designed to mimic a 19th century pharmacy - complete with a box for morphine - while another includes over 1,200 rare medical books, a stuffed alligator and an inmate’s uniform recovered from Mathausen.QH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 11, tel. (+48) 798 19 59 88, www.woia.pl. Open Tue, Wed, Fri only 09:00-15:00. Admission free. POZNAŃ ARMY MUSEUM See Citadel Park, p.42.QI‑4, Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. (+48) 663 86 64 14, www. wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł. Tue free. Tickets bought either here or at the Poznań Army Museum are valid for both museums. POZNAŃ BAMBER MUSEUM Learn about the Bamber people, ethnic Germans from Bamberg who settled in Poznań in the 18th century, inside a mildly interesting museum that includes a 19th century timber house once owned by a wealthy Bamber farmer. Inside displays include old bonnets, looms, paintings, clothing, and timber furniture – everything you’d expect in an ethnographic museum - but very little written information.QJ‑8, ul. Mostowa 7/9, tel. (+48) 605 62 16 11, www.bambrzy.poznan.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 10:0014:00. Admission free. U POZNAŃ CROISSANT MUSEUM See Poznań with the Kids, p. 46.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 41/2 (entrance from ul. Klasztorna 23), tel. (+48) 690 07 78 00, www.rogalowemuzeum.pl. Admission 19zł, 17zł/person for families.

Museums WIELKOPOLSKA MARTYRS MUSEUM One of 18 forts built by the Prussians in the 1870s to protect Poznań’s perimeter, ‘Fort VII’ gained notoriety when it was used as a Gestapo penal camp between 1939 and 1944. At least 18,000 Polish prisoners were processed here, of which 4,500 were murdered, though other estimates have the death toll as high as 20,000. The windswept grassy grounds make for a thought-provoking walk, along which visitors will see the ‘death wall’ - where up to seven prisoners were executed daily during Nazi rule, as well as dark underground tunnels used as makeshift gas chambers. Elsewhere a vaulted brick room holds a small but haunting display that includes a guillotine, an execution block, truncheons, whips, and arrest warrants. The personal effects of prisoners have also been preserved, including hand-written letters, playing cards, rosaries, and identity papers. Chillingly graffiti etched into the walls by prisoners can still be discerned, the writing framed with red and white ribbons. Reaching Fort VII is not an easy task, however. It’s found in the western suburbs, so your best bet is a taxi, with reputable drivers charging around 20-22zł for the journey.QAl. Polska (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 848 31 38, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł. Tue free. WIELKOPOLSKA UPRISING MUSEUM Primarily chronicling the 1918-1919 Wielkopolska Uprising (though the exhibition starts at the time of partition) this museum occupies a rebuilt structure that once served as home to the Royal Guard. A /big renovation ended in December 2017, taking the exhibition from a series of artefacts to a modern multimedia creation on par with the Silesian Museum in Katowice or the Warsaw Uprising Museum in the nation’s capital (though much smaller, of course). Downstairs is a mish-mash of weapons, uniforms, reconstructed bunkers and trenches, and vintage photographs, which look great but fail to convey much meaningful information; the historical info is all upstairs, where you can also take a picture dressed as a Wielkopolska soldier.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 61 853 19 93, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł. Tue free.

Wielkopolska Uprising Museum

POZNAŃ STADIUM Originally built in 1980, the city’s stadium was redeveloped rather than completely reconstructed when Poznań was chosen to host the EURO2012 football championship, with the capacity raised from 27,000 to 43,090 - an investment of €160 million. Today the home of popular local side Lech Poznań, Poznań Stadium (formerly INEA Stadium) is one of the top stadiums in Europe, featuring covered seating throughout, plus all the service points you would expect at a modern sports complex, including the rather splendid ‘12 Sports Bar & Restaurant.’ Host to large-scale events throughout the year, the stadium has also become a bit of a tourist attraction with 45min1hr guided tours available in Polish and English, during which you’ll get a chance to experience the changing rooms that Lech Poznań call home, the Presidential boxes and skyboxes, the press room and conference room, a detention room for misbehaving fans, and, of course, the pitch itself; check their website for exact tour times and prices. Getting there is easy - just catch tram no. 13 from ‘Marcinkowskiego’ (H-7), getting off at ‘Stadion Miejski’.Qul. Bułgarska 17 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 886 30 31, www.stadionpoznan.pl. Tours start 10:30, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00; Sat 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 15:00. Admission 19/14zł. Kids under 4 free. Y 51

Cafés

Breakfast at Petit Paris.

COFFEE MIEL NEW This airy, French-style cafe is a strong new player on Poznań’s specialty coffee scene. Chat with the barista about the newest beans on offer, then grab a chemex and a slice of delicious cake (or morning croissant) and head to the small mezzanine to watch the increasingly-busy Św. Marcin from above. Also on the menu: wine by the glass and bottle, cider, and herbal infusions like hibiscus with berries or elderflower with lemon.QH‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 14, tel. (+48) 698 95 31 62, www.coffeebymiel.pl. Open 08:0020:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. 6 HAPPA TO MAME NEW Unapologetically uncoventional, this Japanese cafe concept has turned a communist-era Jeżyce locale into a minimalist space furnished with a short-legged table perched on a wooden pedestal, cushions for sitting, and a bar with a selection of mysterious-looking desserts. With one wall painted to resemble kintsugi (broken pottery repaired with gold) and another sporting a peculiar, eerie creature, Happa To Mame is not your run-of-themill hipster coffee shop, though the end result is a bit disquieting. Prepare to feel out of place, but do go if you enjoy matcha lattes and daifuku - they are delicious.QB‑6, ul. Augustyna Szamarzewskiego 17, tel. (+48) 576 54 64 47. Open 12:00-21:00; Sat 13:00-21:00; Sun 13:00-20:00; closed Mon. T6 KAWIARNIA STRAGAN Obnoxious in principle, but perfectly warm and inviting in actuality, Stragan adheres to some stringent self-imposed rules, including a non-negotiable no-Americano policy (they also refuse to make scrambled eggs). Instead, they’re 52

committed to serving top-notch alternatively-brewed coffee, using all the new-fangled (or just currently trendy) methods like drip-brewing, aeropress, Chemex, and siphon; boxes of equipment are displayed on the back wall and available for sale, as are coffee beans. The dedication shows: their coffee was among the best we’ve tasted, so give it a go if you’re a caffeine enthusiast. Light breakfast is served as well.QG‑7, ul. Franciszka Ratajczaka 31, tel. (+48) 789 23 39 65, www.craftcoffee.pl. Open 08:0021:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-20:00. TU6 MINISTER CAFE Ministerstwo Browaru has earned itself quite a reputation and is the perfect pub to find a healthy mixture of expats, business types, and tourists enjoying one of the best selection of beers in Poz. But its sister venue - Minister CAFE - has also earned a faithful following and it’s easy enough to see why. The self-professed ‘cafe for those who like beer’ offers a trendy, laid-back interior (white tiles, wood, stainless steel), two beer gardens, and a creative menu of burgers, cake, and beer snacks that will leave you watching your waistline.QG‑8, ul. Ratajczaka 34 (1st floor), tel. (+48) 601 53 37 47. Open 14:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 10:0024:00. o6 MÓWISH MASH Specialty coffee, several varieties of homemade cheesecake, and (mercifully optional) language lessons are the order of the day at this cosy and modern Jeżyce cafe. The attention to detail here is praiseworthy: coffee comes served with a laminated bit of paper describing the bean variety, origin, and flavour profile, so some learning is unavoidable after all. Those keen on improving their English or Spanish

Cafés can set up lessons with a private tutor, which take place in a separate section of the cafe (70zł/h, with a beverage included in the price). Tasty breakfast - toast with various toppings, shakshouka, omelettes - is served before 14:00 on weekdays and all day on weekends.QC‑7, Zwierzyniecka 41, tel. (+48) 573 93 89 89, www.mowishmash.pl. Open 08:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. o6 PĄCZUŚ I KAWUSIA Should you wander out to the largely residential Łazarz district - known for its Palm House, swanky City Park complex, old-school open air market, and mild state of disrepair definitely aim for a pit stop at this charming cafe just off the district’s main square. Called ‘donut and coffee’, the selection of treats won’t surprise you, but the quality will - the delicious pączki (Polish hole-less doughnuts) are homemade, often warm, and come in a variety of fillings, and the specialty coffee is brewed using a number of alternative methods. Recommended.QUl. Rynek Łazarski 8, tel. (+48) 513 41 01 14. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. T6 PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIE A prime location on the ground floor of Poznań’s bustling Stary Browar shopping complex means that this cafe/ boulangerie is never short of customers looking to take a break from their latest spending spree. The interior is smart but informal, and the friendly staff busy themselves serving up everything from fresh coffees and teas to crepes, tarts, pastries, and freshly-baked French bread. For those looking for something a little more substantial there’s an excellent breakfast selection, daily soups, and a range of lunches to line your stomach before sampling one of their wines. Also at Aleja Wielkopolska 40a (D-3). Bon appétit!QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55, www.petitparis.com.pl. Open 08:00-21:00; Sun 09:0020:00. U PTASIE RADIO Named after ‘The Bird Radio,’ a famous children’s poem by Julian Tuwim, this rustic cafe really commits to the theme with subtle murals, vintage bird cages, and bird-shaped figurines. The large selection of unique, seasonal hot and cold drinks (lemonades, hot chocolates, smoothies, coffees, and the like) might be the primary draw, but it’s not all Ptasie Radio also offers breakfasts (served until noon), lunches, and delicious chocolate cake.QF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 74/3, tel. (+48) 512 35 72 37, www.ptasieradio.pl. Open 08:00-24:00; Sat 09:00-24:00; Sun 09:00-23:00. T6 RÓŻOVE Walking through the door of this establishment is like stepping into a close friend’s super trendy kitchen, except the friend is an insane baker with a glass case full of glorious fresh cakes. Featuring an odd but inviting open layout, friendly and easygoing staff, and a pink theme that stays strictly within the limits of good taste at all times, Róźove is part cafe, part trinket shop, and all cosy hang-out.QI‑7, ul. Wodna 23, tel. (+48) 725 01 00 77, www.rozove.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. U6

BREAKFAST BAJGLE KRÓLA JANA Though now inseverably connected to NYC, the humble bagel can trace its roots to Central Europe, with many agreeing it was invented by Cracovian Jews after 1496 when King Jan Sobieski lifted the decree that formerly restricted the production of baked goods to the Kraków Bakers Guild. This bit of culinary history is celebrated at ‘King Jan’s Bagels’, a cafe and breakfast spot in the trendy Jeżyce district, cloned from the original Szczecin location. The menu bursts with a generous selection of bagel sandwiches with fixings including salted caramel, mascarpone, pulled chicken in tonkatsu sauce, prosciutto, marinated tofu, and much more. Reservations recommended. QC‑6, ul. Kraszewskiego 15, tel. (+48) 732 80 64 44, www.bajglekrolajana.pl. Open 08:30-18:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-18:00. 6 ALEKOSMOS One of our favourite breakfast spots, ALEkosmos recently moved to a new, larger locale, making room not just for a lush tangle of houseplants, but also for an upsized menu. On our last visit, we were knocked off our feet by the soft and buttery freshly baked pretzel with hummus and roasted root vegetables, but there are many other enticing dishes to try as well, from pumpkin shakshouka to challah bread French toast with orange sauce, roasted almonds, and mascarpone. Breakfast is served until 15:00; after that, you can pop in for coffee and cake.QB‑6, ul. Jackowskiego 43, tel. (+48) 781 82 20 77. Open 09:0019:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. €. 6 PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIE A perfect breakfast option, where the most important meal of the day is served all day. Choose from French classics like croque madame, crepes, croissant sandwiches, tartines and more - all made from authentic French ingredients, and delicious fresh bread that is baked on-site. Second location at Aleja Wielkopolska 40a.QH‑9, ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55, www.petitparis. com.pl. Open 08:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-20:00. €. U UNO Absolutely smashing breakfast and specialty coffee (cold brew, chemex, aeropress, the works) in a typical ‘cool 2010s interior’ of exposed brick, light wood, plants, and wall art - pleasant. The menu changes regularly, but expect elevated versions of popular brekkie dishes like toast (served here with chorizo and mozzarella di bufala), shakshouka (with beets), and pastrami sandwiches, or more unusual options like rice pudding with plums or vegan farinata (Italian chickpea pancake). You can even grab yourself a bag of coffee beans recommended by the knowledgeable staff. Recommended. QC‑6, ul. Bolesława Prusa 4/2, tel. (+48) 501 03 17 87. Open 08:00-18:00; Sat 09:0016:00; Sun 10:00-16:00. €. 6 53

Regional Dishes

St. Martin’s Croissant | Photo courtesy of City of Poznań

Though much of their cuisine is shared with Poland as a whole, Poznań and the wider Wielkopolska region do have some of the most distinctive dishes in the country. Here’s a rundown of popular fare that you can get your hands on even when all the local grannies are busy cooking for someone else. Do keep in mind that restaurant menus change, and these dishes might become unavailable during the shelf life of this guide - luckily most restaurants post their menus online, so you can quickly double-check before showing up for dinner.

POTATOES WITH GZIK

Nearly ubiquitous as a starter in Poznań’s Polish restaurants, gzik is made of quark cheese mixed with cream and chives or radish. Served together with jacket potatoes, this 19th century peasant dish is known as ‘pyra z gzikiem’ in local parlance. Where to try it: Wiejskie Jadło (p.68), Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem (p.66), Bamberka (p.67), and Hyćka (p.66). 54

ROAST DUCK

Whereas in most corners of Poland, until fairly recently, Peking duck was an eyebrow-raising oddity, and ‘edible’ poultry was limited to chicken and turkey, Wielkopolska has long liked its kaczka. Traditionally served roasted with cabbage, apples, and dumplings, duck has recently also founds its way into pierogi and even burgers. Where to try it: Ratuszova (p.67), Bazar 1838 (p.65), Wiejskie Jadło (p.68), Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem (p.66), Bamberka (p.67), and Hyćka (p.66).

GREY DUMPLINGS / SZARE KLUCHY

Grey - the #1 least appetising colour. Unfortunately, that’s just the hue raw potatoes turn after you shred them, a necessary first step in the making of these popular but uninspired dumplings. After shredding, the potatoes are mixed with egg and flour and cooked to lumpy perfection. Traditionally accompanied by sauerkraut, szare kluchy aren’t exactly a fashionable dish anymore, though we’d love to see a more glammed-up version one day. Where to try them: Wiejskie Jadło (p.68), Bamberka (p.67), Hyćka (p.66), and some milk bars (p.8).

ST. MARTIN’S GOOSE

Another St. Martin’s Day delicacy is roast goose, a nod towards a legend detailing how St. Martin was hiding in a flock of geese in an attempt to avoid becoming a bishop (the geese gave him away by honking loudly). Unlike croissants, St. Martin’s goose really does make an appearance only around St. Martin’s day; there’s even an official ‘Goose for St. Martin’s Day’ food festival (November 8th - December 1st), now in its eleventh year. Where to try it: restaurants participating in the festival include Bazar 1838 (p.65) and Flavoria (p.60).

HYĆKA

CZERNINA

A bit grisly, this mixture of clear broth and duck’s blood with a handful of noodles is commonly said to taste better than it looks, though you be the judge - we’re keeping mum. Perfect for Halloween and beyond. Where to try it: Bamberka (p.67) and Hyćka (p.66).

A local rendition of elderflower cordial, and not a popular drink elsewhere in Poland. The recipe is simple: elderflower, sugar and water, resulting in a sweet, vitaminrich concoction. Where to try it: where else - Hyćka (p.66).

ST. MARTIN’S CROISSANTS

St. Martin’s Day (November 11th) has been a Poznań obsession ever since a church named after the saint was erected in the 13th century. The celebrations call for a very specific treat, and that’s rogale świętomarcińskie (St. Martin’s croissants) Filled with a poppy seed and almond paste and topped with a healthy pile of sugary glaze, these croissant-like pastries apparently date back to the 19th century. If you believe local legend, their inventor was baker Józef Melzer, who prayed to St.Martin for pastry ideas to honour the saint’s holiday, and was inspired when seeing a horse slip a shoe in the St. Martin’s Day parade. Where to try them: while November is the high season for these treats, their immense popularity means that they can be found in bakeries year-round, 55

Restaurants

Muga (p.61)

Poznań might have a reputation as an international centre of commerce, but its restaurant scene has only recently started taking off, with a scattering of world-class restaurants and an increasing number of good ethnic options. While In Your Pocket once listed every venue in the city, the explosion of the market and its sheer redundancy now makes that pursuit impossible. Our print guide carries a wide selection of what we feel are Poznań’s most noteworthy restaurants, however there are many more listed on our website (poznan.inyourpocket.com) where we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the places you’ve visited. All our reviews are updated regularly, completely subjective and unsolicited. The figures we quote in brackets represent the cheapest and costliest main courses on the menu. The opening hours are verified as we send this guide off to the printer, but keep in mind that they’re subject to change. Where the venue is not on our map we have included the district where it is located in brackets. Below is a selection of recommendations depending on what you may be looking for. SPLURGE Any ‘best of’ list in Poznań is invariably going to see a slew of nominations for Blow Up Hall 5050 (p.59), where you’ll find very modern versions of Polish cooking in an impossibly cutting edge neo-industrial setting. For upmarket close to the market square try Ratuszova (p.67), and for something out of the centre head to the daringly modern SPOT. (p.62). 56

COUPLES Restauracja MUGA (p.61), and its attached Casa De Vinos wine bar (p.73), is the perfect place to impress your date, while Figaro (p.63) is so over-the-top you half expect to be served by Cupid himself. For something completely different, think of all the naughty things you can do under the table in the pitch black of Dark Restaurant (p.68). POLISH By popular vote, the market square’s Ratuszova (p.67) is the best Polish food you’ll find in Poznań, and served in one of the most elegant interiors you’ve ever eaten in. In contrast, Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem (p.66) and Wiejskie Jadło (p.68) do traditional interpretations of Polish food in rustic environs, Hyćka (p.66) has the widest selection of regional cuisine, and the pierogi spot Na Winklu (p.66) prefers a contemporary twist. QUICK EATS For a speedy but tasty meal that will leave you with more time for sightseeing, try the falafel bowls at Falla (p.69), ramen at Ramen-Ya (p.64), or pho at PHOBAR (p.58), or places listed in our quick eats box on p.60. SPECIAL DIET Our Vegetarian listings are on p.67, but you’ll also find tasty vegan and gluten-free dishes in Projekt Kuchnia (p.61) and SPOT. (p.62). If it’s Polish food you’re after, Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem (p.66) will adapt any of their dishes exactly to your dietary needs and desires.

Restaurants SYMBOL & PRICE KEY 6 Animal friendly

C‑1 Map Coordinate

T Child-friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

o Year-Round Garden X Smoking room available

€ €€ €€€ €€€€ €€€€€

most mains under 25zł most mains 25-45zł most mains 45-75zł most mains 75-115zł most mains over 115zł

AMERICAN INDIAN STEAK Poland does still like its Native American cliches, and if you look past the name and harmless sprinkling of tribal and ‘wild wild West’ exotica (which admittedly is incorporated tastefully into the elegant, red-brick interior), you will discover an upscale steak house serving a wide assortment of cuts including tournedo, T-bone, fiorentina, ribeye, top sirloin, and even the elusive 1.2kg tomahawk steak, widely considered the best of the bunch. Pair the perfectly-grilled meat with regional sides like potatoes with gzik, goat cheese, oyster mushrooms, or meadow lettuces (all from locally-sourced ingredients), or opt for one of Indian’s Wielkopolska-centric options like venison or roast duck with cabbage and dumplings.QA‑9/10, ul. Ułańska 1, tel. (+48) 61 221 78 07, www.indiansteak.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€€€. PANISTEK NEW Steak houses are still a relatively rare sight in Poznań, but this meat-obsessed eatery has steak lovers covered, with cuts of high-quality beef sizzling away on a charcoal-burning Josper grill; choose from strip loin, bone-in sirloin, porterhouse, ribeye, T-bone, and the massive butcher’s steak, which can weigh upwards of a kilogram. Other offerings include grilled fish, BBQ ribs, vegetarian pasta and salads, craft beer, wine, and even buffet breakfast served 7:00-12:00 Mon-Sat and 8:00-11:00 Sun.QH‑9, ul. Kwiatowa 2, tel. (+48) 500 06 42 58, www.panistek.pl. Open 07:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 07:0023:00; Sun 08:00-21:00. €€. To6 SOMEPLACE ELSE Some baulk at the prices, but there’s no escaping that Someplace Else is the full monty – here’s a place that gets both food and drink completely right, with a largely American menu of burgers, steaks, and Tex Mex; sometimes that’s just what you need. The diner design is straight out of road-trip USA, and a great spot for ties-off, after-office chow, and beers. With 9 TVs, this is also one of your best bets for catching that match - be it European or American. QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else.pl. Open 18:00-24:00; closed Sun. €€€. TU 57

Restaurants ASIAN

PaniStek Kwiatowa 2, Poznań

PĄCZKI A tradition since the 1700s, the pączek (plural: pączki) is Poland’s national doughnut, and so popular that it even has its own holiday – Tłusty Czwartek (Fat Thursday) – which falls on the last Thursday before the start of Lent (February 20th, 2020). With Lent forbidding sweets and treats, Fat Thursday is a similar celebration of gluttonous indulgence as in other countries, but with the date bungled, and instead of parading and partying the Poles queue up in lines that sometimes stretch around the corner in order to purchase dozens of doughnuts from the local cukiernia, or bakery. Dense, deep-fried dough balls typically filled with rose jam, glazed with sugar, and topped with candied orange peel, pączki are similar to American jelly doughnuts, the main difference being that instead of squirting jelly all over your lap, Poland’s conservative tendencies ensure there is typically only a drop of marmalade in the centre somewhere. Our favourite pączki shop in Poznań is Pączuś i Kawusia (p.53). 58

CAFE LA RUINA I RAJ Completely unique and infused with the owners’ love for travel, food, and coffee, Cafe La Ruina i Raj moved from their previous (and rather iconic) location in the tiny Śródka district to a more mainstream locale on ul. Św. Marcin. With more space comes even more outlandish decor, including airport-style departure displays mounted near the ceiling, which display the menu, a potentially seizure-inducing disco bathroom, and a horror vacui jumble of flags, signs, maps, artwork, and various bits and bobs from the owners’ many travels. Unfortunately, the quality of the food seems to have slipped a bit during the move - the pad thai, which has long been the star of the menu, lacked much of the complexity we remembered from Śródka. Here’s hoping that the fare can soon return to its former glory, as there’s much more to sample: Thai khao pad, Vietnamese pho bo and bahn mi, Genovese testaroli with pesto (‘the greatgrandfather of pasta’), Peruvian lomo saltado in burger form, Hong Kong style chow mein, Alaskan hotcakes, and more.QG‑7/8, ul. Święty Marcin 34, tel. (+48) 666 15 25 55. Open 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00. €€. TU6 MIN’S TABLE NEW Good Asian food is something we’ve come to expect from Poznań, and this trendy hole-in-the-wall churning out authentic Korean bibimbap - made by Min herself - certainly lived up to our expectations. Sit around the communal table and choose from one of six bibimbap options (vegetarian and meaty) or go for japchae (sweet potato noodles), toppokki (rice and fish cakes), dakgangjeong (crispy fried chicken), kimchi dumplings, or subak hwachae (watermelon punch). Cashless payments only.QC‑6, ul. Kraszewskiego 14, tel. (+48) 792 35 03 80. Open 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. 6 PHOBAR More like Berlin in Poznań rather than Hanoi in Poznań, and the local cool kids aren’t complaining. Big bowls of beautiful, meaty pho bo and vegan pho chay are served amid loud dubstep to hip youth seated at communal tables; the exposed-brick interior and party garlands complete the stylish atmosphere. The broth might not be the most flavourful, but a splash of sriracha and fish sauce from strategically placed bottles resolve the issue to an extent. Those pining for other Vietnamese specialties can enjoy ‘fresh rolls’ and splendid coffee with condensed milk.QB‑6, ul. Wawrzyniaka 19, tel. (+48) 501 97 39 74. Open 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00. €€. 6

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Restaurants INDIAN HATTI Our hopes were not high for this establishment - good Indian is still fairly difficult to come by in Poland - but we were pleasantly surprised as the appetiser papadums with a selection of chutneys came out of the kitchen, followed by some very decent tikka masalas and mango lassis. From the ornate and slightly musty decor to the extensive selection of dishes, this is a familiar, Westernised version of the subcontinental eating experience such as you’ll find in the UK or US, and we goras are happy. Looking forward to coming back whenever the pakora cravings kick back in.QI‑7, ul. Woźna 13, tel. (+48) 732 71 00 00, www.hatti.pl. Open 13:00-22:30. €€. 6 KWIAT PEONII The Peony Flower serves Asian fusion with a focus on Indian and Nepali dishes - the native cuisine of cooks working at this establishment. Choose from an extensive menu of classics like fried rice, chicken and mutton biryani, Nepali chow mein, aloo gobhi, creamy dahl, mutter paneer, malai kofta, lamb vindaloo, and more, served with rice or roti. Of note are the goat meat dishes, a rarity in Poznań: rogan josh, tawa goat, kadai goat, and a straightforward curry. There are even breakfast items and some mild, simple dishes for spice-averse European children.QH‑6, Pl. Wielkopolski 5, tel. (+48) 884 80 40 94. Open 11:00-22:00. €€. T6

IIIIII-NNNNNNNN RRRRRRRRRR breakfast, lunch and dinner Dishes prepared by our chefs from Nepal with the best ingredients

INTERNATIONAL BIERHALLE This familiar tourist-friendly franchise lives up to its name, bringing its Oktoberfest atmosphere to Poznań’s Posnania Shopping Centre. At Bierhalle they brew their own, offering 5 different ales most commonly ordered by the litre, but you can also go gorilla with a 5l barrel. The beer-friendly franchise menu consists of German bratwurst, ribs, pork knuckle, and other meaty feasts with fries, the busty servers in faux-folk costumes look like they’ve just finished milking the cows, and TVs stream sports to complete the lads magnet appeal.QM‑10, ul. Pleszewska 1 (Posnania), tel. (+48) 508 80 07 55, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 10:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. To6 BLOW UP HALL 5050 Blow Up 5050 is a combination of gastronomy and art that will blow your socks off. The name is a combination of the 1966 Antonioni thriller combined with the owner’s philosophy of making all her enterprises 50% art and 50% business. Complementing the award winning hotel and bar is the restaurant, where prices are at the very top end of the Poznań market, as is the quality. The seasonal cuisine - crafted by Top Chef Poland winner Tomasz Purol - is superb, and the surroundings will leave you feeling you’ve become part of a living art exhibition, making it a truly unique experience in Poland, and perhaps even Europe.QG‑9, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 90, www.blowuphall5050.com. Open 17:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€€€. TU

pl. Wielkopolski 5 61-746 Poznań tel.: 884 804 094 59

Restaurants

TRADITIONAL POLISH CUISINE A.D.1954

RATUSZOVA RESTAURANT STARY RYNEK 55, POZNAŃ +48 618 510 513

QUICK EATS FAT BOB BURGER Considered one of the best burgers in town (which is saying something considering Poland’s recent infatuation with gourmet fast food), Fat Bob Burger has been drawing rave reviews from critics and ordinary meat lovers alike. Made with fresh ingredients, highquality beef, and home-made buns, these meaty concoctions are both extra filling and a little more sophisticated than what you’d get at the drive-thru.For the vegetarian crowd, there's a grilled halloumi option. QI‑7, ul. Kramarska 21, tel. (+48) 794 93 93 33. Open 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-20:00; closed Mon. €€. U6 NALEŚNIKARNIA GRAMOFON NEW ‘The Gramophone’ offers a plethora of sweet and savoury crepes for an easy-on-the-wallet 6-18zł. Alongside classic fillings like jam, spinach, or baked apples, you’ll also find more creative concoctions like ‘Whim’ (chocolate, pear, blue cheese, and walnuts) or ‘Ballet’ (cheese, pineapple, carrots, peas, mushrooms, chicken, and curry powder). For something really out there, try the crepe nachos or a slice of layered crepe cake.QH/I‑7, ul. Wrocławska 5, tel. (+48) 793 66 16 61, www.gramo.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 10:0023:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. €. T6 60

BROVARIA Go formal and pick the right-hand room for a smoothly subdued dining area or else do as the rank-and-file and head either to the brewing hall out back, the bar to the side, or the al fresco terrace. Brovaria has something for everyone, from half a roast duck to a French veggie tart, with the premium price reserved for the grilled beef sirloin. Or consider tucking into the beer feast – essentially a huge platter piled inches high with a mix of seafood and meat. Not for nothing has Brovaria been crowned king of the expatriate scene.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. T CONCORDIA TASTE A long-standing editorial favourite, thanks to their willingness to buck trends and try something different. The design is what you would call post-industrial (the live cooking station is a huge plus) and the clientele sharpdressed and out to impress. The food comes beautifully presented by efficient staff and the seasonal menu features some truly mouth-watering options, which in the past have included the likes of sturgeon with roasted cauliflower, potatoes, and confit onion; smoked bacon with caramelised vegetables and cherry demi glace; and blood sausage with rye bread, vinegar pear, and mustard sauce. QD‑7, ul. Zwierzyniecka 3, tel. (+48) 609 00 29 64, www. concordiataste.pl. Open 08:30-22:00; Sat 09:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-18:00. €€€. TU DĄBROWSKIEGO 42 Climb up the steps and enter what is one of the city’s more innovative and fresh-looking restaurants. The light and airy wood-filled rooms make it a great place to drool over the menu (while we weren’t able to sample everything, the confit duck breast with red cabbage puree and regional dumplings has certainly given us an excuse to return) and a great little kids area allows you to enjoy your meal in peace. QC‑6, ul. Dąbrowskiego 42 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 797 99 79 95, www.dabrowskiego42.com. Open 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€€. T6 FLAVORIA Tucked away deep inside the IBB Andersia Hotel, Flavoria isn’t the type of place you just stumble across by accident. But those willing to sniff it out will find a smart, modern restaurant with a good mixture of international cuisine ranging from standard breakfast buffets (06:30 - 10:00 Mon-Fri, 7:00-11:00 Sat-Sun) to more sophisticated evening dishes like sirloin steak with roasted garlic, spring onions, vegetables, and corn churros. With daylight streaming through the large windows by day and dim candlelight during dinner, Flavoria is one of the city’s more formal restaurants, ideal for business lunches and other such upmarket eating occasions.QG‑9, Pl. Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 667 80 81, www. andersiahotel.pl. Open 06:30-10:30; Sat,Sun 07:0011:00 for breakfast; 13:00-18:00 for lunch; 18:00-23:00 for dinner. €€€. To

Restaurants JUST FRIENDS BEER & FOOD NEW A place made for hanging out with your crew, Just Friends specialises in shareable dishes, like hot & cold appetiser boards featuring BBQ ribs, chicken wings, plums wrapped in bacon, rillettes, and other tasty snacks. The day starts with breakfast (eggs, croissants, or Polish apple pancakes), progresses to 18zł daily-special lunch (12:00-16:00 MonFri), and in the evening the restaurant fills with friends chatting over beer and mixed drinks. Located right on the main square, this might just make for a convenient preparty fueling point.QH‑7, ul. Stary Rynek 80, tel. (+48) 570 99 99 00. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-24:00. €€. T6 LAVENDA GASTRO & CAFE There are a slew of cosy little cafes dotted around the back streets of Stary Rynek, and competition is indeed tough; Lavenda slots right in there with the very best of them, though. A relaxed atmosphere and a great array of hot drinks, wines, and light food make this the perfect place to share a lunchtime coffee or to meet for an intimate first date. Breakfast is served daily between 08:00 and 13:00, while lunchtime goes from 12:30 until 16:00.QI‑7, ul. Wodna 3/4, tel. (+48) 61 852 49 95, www.lavendacafelunch.pl. Open 08:00-22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 08:0023:00. €€. T6 PROJEKT KUCHNIA Poznań’s culinary scene has come on leaps and bounds over the last couple of years and nowhere is it more evident than here. Located in the heart of the city’s bustling Stary Browar shopping centre, Projekt Kuchnia provides a sleek, sexy environment in which to enjoy some of the finest food around town. Oh, and did we mention that much of it is organic, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, or dairy-free? Though the menu doesn’t discriminate against carnivores by any stretch, those on a special diet will find their Shangri-La here, and their foodie friends will be glad they tagged along. The top quality extends from the breakfast menu to the wine list, and if you’re browsing around the Old Brewery, you can stop your search for the best place to eat - this is it.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 606 99 29 99, www.projektkuchnia.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. On shopping-ban Sundays 10:00-18:00. €€. TU

PASSION FOR FOOD Wodna 3/4, 61-781 Poznań Phone +48 61 852 49 95 www.lavenda-cafelunch.pl

RESTAURACJA MUGA Located right next door to Casa de Vinos wine bar (just step through the glass door), MUGA has managed to serve up a perfect mixture of fine European food, great service, and excellent wine. The seasonal menu rivals anything else we’ve sampled and the bright, well-lit interior makes for a warm and inviting stay. A perfect spot for courting couples, business deals, and those looking to impress; first-daters should head to the far corner where intimacy is almost encouraged.QH‑8, ul. Krysiewicza 5, tel. (+48) 61 855 10 35, www.restauracjamuga.pl. Open 17:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; closed Sun. €€€. 61

Restaurants SPOT. Fashion, design, and cuisine collide at SPOT, a unique shopping complex set inside the beautifully restored late 19th-century Wilda power station, which is surrounded by a lovely green park. Home to several shops and services, it all serves as mere garnish for the excellent restaurant, which should be your main motivation for visiting. Sporting a smart post-industrial swagger with monochrome colours, exposed bricks, and retro kitsch decor, the atmosphere is inspired, and the menu offers sophisticated European cuisine accented by Asian flavours, including vegetarian and gluten-free dishes. With craft beer, a large selection of wines, and their own sommelier, this is Poznań at its cutting edge best.Qul. Dolna Wilda 87, tel. (+48) 61 835 88 40, www.spot.poznan.pl. Open 10:30-22:00; Fri, Sat 10:3023:00; Sun 10:30-19:00; closed Mon. €€€. TU6

RistoRante FigaRo ul. ogrodowa 17, 61-821 Poznań tel. +48 61 856 01 89 www.restauracjafigaro.eu figaro@restauracjafigaro.eu

THE TIME Located in Poznań’s posh Młyńska 12 business centre, the result of the refurbishment of a fin de siècle building designed by architect Oskar Hoffman, The Time meets the standards of its high-profile guests. Perfect for impressing both business partners and dates, they serve a menu of sophisticated dishes like duck pierogi with foie gras and beet puree or quail with figs and vegetables; additionally, over 150 various bottles of wine can be fetched from the cellar by the waiter.QG‑6, ul. Młyńska 12, tel. (+48) 61 627 03 07, www.mlynska12.pl. Open 15:00-22:00; Fri 15:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. €€€€. TU6 WERANDA LUNCH & WINE Weranda is a restaurant worthy of its setting at the confluence of the old and new portions of the vast Stary Browar shopping centre, with an open two-story skylit space (what the hell are those colourful things hanging from the ceiling?) that is breathtaking even in a building that’s known for its architecture. If upscale mall dining exists then Weranda has perfected it, with a daily lunch menu (29zł from 12:00 till the food runs out) that can include anything from pasta to grilled meat to whatever strikes the chef’s fancy. All of it can be paired with wine, easily making shopping an afterthought. On non-shopping-ban Sundays (currently the last Sunday of each month) the restaurant is open 10:00-20:00.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 859 69 69, www.werandafamily.com. Open 09:00-22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. €€€. To

ITALIAN Italian Specialties Olivio Ristorante

Świętosławska 9; Poznań Phone: +48 61 670 34 47 62

BAR A BOO Looking for Poznań’s best pizzeria? Look no further. To be honest, labelling this place a pizzeria is a bit of a cop out as the menu also offers up breakfasts, macaroni dishes, and salads, and the smart, elegant interior rivals some of the city’s better restaurants. A good mixture of wines to order by the glass or bottle and plenty of beers and spirits mean that if you’re coming here to line your stomach, the

Restaurants inevitable ul. Taczaka pub crawl may kick off later than you planned.QF‑8, ul. Taczaka 11, tel. (+48) 61 883 43 15, www.baraboo.pl. Open 09:00-24:00; Mon 09:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 11:00-23:00. €€. TU FIGARO Romantic repasts and serious business dinners take place amongst these starched tablecloths and vases of flowers. Prices are steep, but well within the spending power of most Western visitors. Diners can choose from a large list of pastas, beef tenderloin, veal, and an expansive wine list. What Figaro is famous for though is its fresh fish and seafood, which is said to be among the best in the city. Those wanting to really push the boat out may wish to take advantage of the restaurant’s VIP room, which can be hired out for those extra special occasions. The kitchen closes at 22:00 Mon-Sat, so don’t leave your culinary feast till the last minute.QG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 856 01 89, www.restauracjafigaro.eu. Open 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-18:00. €€€. T6 MOLLINI This charming Italian venture sets itself apart by letting the food speak for itself with simple dishes that will knock you out. We aren’t kidding about the simple – your pasta can be as basic as spaghetti with olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, and parmesan, and in your snobbier moments you might think it’s something you could easily do at home (you can’t). Even the straightforward grilled veggies seem elevated somehow. An Italian restaurant delightfully free of cliché, but full of flavour. Stop by during lunch (Mon-Fri 12:00 - 17:00) for some savings on your bill.QG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 34, tel. (+48) 61 852 53 33, www.mollini.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€€. T OLIVIO NEW This trattoria-style Old Town establishment serves up fresh home-made pasta, classic pizza, and other Italian favourites like lasagna, ravioli, mussels in wine, gnocchi, and tiramisu, but the pride of place goes to risotto nero alla pescatora (black risotto with seafood and cuttlefish ink) and tortellacci con funghi e ricotta (tortellacci with mushrooms and ricotta). Pair your dish with a glass of fine Italian wine or a splash of liquor. QI‑7, ul. Świętosławska 9, tel. (+48) 61 670 34 47. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€€.

JAPANESE KURO BY PANAMO The tendency in Poland is for a new cuisine to be launched and then a procession of new restaurants to open all serving pretty much the same ‘fashionable’ cuisine. Here Kuro have taken the cuisine of a ten years ago – sushi – and mixed it with the most recent trends – Thai and Korean. The results to be fair are very, very good and the ul. Wodna location means you won’t have to go far to find it. Find both hot and cold Japanese dishes and some very tasty pan-Asian in a handsome room with remarkably friendly people working there.QI‑7, ul. Wodna 8/9, tel. (+48) 61 887 04 30, www.kurosushi.pl. Open 13:00-22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€€. T 63

Restaurants

CHRISTMAS IN POLAND

KYOKAI SUSHI BAR The City Park development just to the west of the centre (past the Trade Fairs) is home to some of the city’s best eating establishments and this is true for Kyokai, one of Poznań’s most notable Japanese efforts. Laid out over two floors, Kyokai features sushi sets revolving around a circular bar, while a sushi sensei multitasks in the thick of it all. Set in a series of converted red brick buildings, the surroundings look chic and sexy, as do the clientele. Definitely one to check out, take tram 13 to the ‘Wojskowa’ stop.QA‑8, ul. Wojskowa 4 (Łazarz), tel. (+48) 519 37 61 82, www. kyokai.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. TU6

Though not immune to the inglorious Western custom of setting out festive merchandise in October, this staunchly catholic country keeps Christ firmly in Christmas – meaning that the holidays are still more of a spiritual rather than consumerist celebration. The season kicks off with Advent, a period of fasting, praying, and expectant waiting, which (at least in theory) is every bit as solemn as you’d expect from Poland. Of course, how closely church guidelines are followed depends on individual inclinations, and while some wake up before dawn each day to attend Rorate Mass, other prefer to celebrate the season with generous amounts of mulled wine in jolly company. One of the most eagerly awaited days of the year for children is December 6th, Saint Nicholas Day, when they wake up to sweets and small gifts from Saint Nick (generally the stately saint, not Coca Cola Santa – though the visual given to kids is also a matter of preference). The main act of the holidays occurs on Christmas Eve, called Wigilia, when families gather for a festive evening meal followed by caroling, gift-giving, and Midnight Mass; Christmas Day and Boxing Day are reserved for visiting extended family and friends and possibly taking part in additional masses. Unabashed Christmas spirit is kept going until Three Kings Day on January 6th, but the holiday season doesn’t officially wrap up until Candlemas on February 2nd, when many families finally take down their decorations. So what about food? Bad news if you dislike Polish cooking, basically. A traditional Wigilia meal consists of twelve dishes - one for each apostle - which should be meatless as it’s not Jesus’ birthday quite yet. Alcohol is another no-no, though Poles sometimes turn a blind eye on this one. Traditional dishes include borscht with baby pierogi rolled up tortellini-style, full-grown pierogi various ways, carp (fish is practically considered a vegetable in this meat-heavy cuisine), herring, cabbage with peas, stewed dried fruit, poppy seed strudel, and gingerbread. Before all those are rolled out, however, dinner participants are forced (by tradition) to share Christmas wafers with each other one-on-one while wishing luck and happiness in the coming year. If the hosts’ creativity has failed, the wafer can be usefully counted as a twelfth meal - convenient!

RAMEN-YA This hole-in-the-wall might be tiny, awkwardly furnished, and somewhat rudimentary, but boy, is the ramen good. After the success of Yetztu on ul. Krysiewicza it looked like Poznań didn’t need any more ramen joints, and yet these boys came along and knocked the ball out of the park again. The menu consists of meaty and vegan ramen variations, including shoyu, shio, tonkotsu, kimchi, and mazamen, plus snacks like bao buns; the cooks know their stuff and food arrives super fast. While not exactly the place for an extended sit-down, this is one of our favourite spots for a quick bite of something good.QC‑5, ul. Kościelna 4, tel. (+48) 731 09 73 58. Open 12:0021:00. €€. 6 YETZTU Ramen, ramen, ramen - the best in Poznań, in fact (though that notion is now being challenged with the arrival of Ramen-Ya in Jeżyce). Tiny and decorated with assorted cutsey Japanese paraphernalia - beckoning cats, anime figurines, worried-looking bake-danuki - Yetztu offers several versions of the beloved noodles, including shio (with wontons), shoyu (with chicken), vegio (with tofu), kamo (with chili duck), and yakitori (with yakitori). There are also edemame beans to munch on, kakuni marinated pork belly, kimchi, and the very bold ‘wonton nachos’.QH‑8, ul. Bolesława Krysiewicza 6, tel. (+48) 61 840 17 12. Open 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. T ZINDO SUSHI KOREAN-JAPANESE RESTAURANT An expansion from their Warsaw and Wrocław operations, Zindo’s modern beige-heavy space still appears to be struggling to attract attention from the folks in Poznań. An all-you-can-eat sushi buffet keeps the place busy, and provides more of a bang-for-your-buck experience than the pricier dinner menu option - drop in between 12:00 and 16:45 for 60zł/person, and 16:45-22:00 for 70zł/person (or stay in and get Uber Eats to deliver). The Korean menu is a standout, and adventurous eaters can indulge in octopus, fried squid, or raw fish with vegetables to test their mettle. More traditional options like kimchi are reliably well done.QI‑7, ul. Kramarska 15, tel. (+48) 61 853 01 78, www.zindo.pl. Open 12:0022:30. €€€. T

Restaurants KYRGYZ U AIPO NEW This delightful, bright, and simply-decorated hole-in-thewall serves a truly underrepresented cuisine - Kyrgyz - and Poznaniaks are flocking in to try it. The menu is short and to the point, offering the greatest Central Asian culinary hits: lamb kuurdak (meat with potatoes and onions), lagman (a brothy soup with hand-pulled noodles and meat), manty and samsa dumplings, a few salads, chak-chak (deep-fied dough with syrup), and milk tea made by the Kyrgyz owner, Aipo, herself.QC‑6, ul. Szamarzewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 609 65 53 18. Open 11:00-20:00; closed Mon. €. 6

PIZZA PRZYJEMNOŚĆ Classic hipster find. Located in the rather run-down and overlooked Wilda district, przyjemność (pleasure) is probably not something you’d stumble upon by accident, but cool hunters will be glad they made the trek from the old town. Tiny but well designed, przyjemność is reminiscent of holein-the-wall Asian establishments mixed with 2019 European hipsterdom: there are hanging plants, underground culture magazines, and a long countertop with bar stools, while the focal point is California-style pizza and white wine spritzers. In the warm season the eatery spills out into the adjacent green space, where picnic tables and umbrellas have been set out. QG‑10, ul. Górna Wilda 82/84, tel. (+48) 789 38 54 55. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€. 6

Korean-Japanese cuisine Circular sushi bar

y Happ

hour

12:00 - 17:00

All week!

sushi Buffet Eat all you want 60zł per person 17:00 - 22:00 70zł per person

POLISH BAZAR 1838 Set in the historic building that once housed (and will again someday, according to rumours) the Hotel Bazar, the name of this smart restaurant honours both the building and the year it was built. Looking far pricier from the outside than it actually is, the food scores well in the price to quality ratio, and is served by a friendly English-speaking staff. Along with imaginative interpretations of typical Polish dishes you’ll find pastas, salads and a variety of original dishes. Definitely a place to impress without buckling the credit card, though you may have to protect the plastic from the exclusive shops nearby.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 222 68 64, www.bazar1838.pl. Open 11:0022:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. €€€. Uo CHŁOPSKIE JADŁO Anyone who has set foot in Poland before will have most likely eaten in Chłopskie Jadło - a national chain which offers good old Polish grub at a reasonable price. This new Poznań location nails the formula, and trademark touristapproved standards like various types of pierogi, hearty cutlets, and sour rye soup in bread are as good here as you’ll find anywhere. The interior is also refreshingly modern, while retaining some folksy motifs, and a playground for kids makes this a good option for families. As is the case with most Polish restaurants, you’ll be leaving extremely

FREE DELIVERY WITHIN 5 KM FOR ORDERS OVER 100 ZŁ

ul. Kramarska 15, www.zindo.pl reservation (61) 853-01-78 65

Restaurants ul. Wojskowa 4 Poznań (next to City Park) open: mon-sat 12-23, sun 12-22 phone: + 48 519 376 182 www.kyokai.pl email: sushi@kyokai.pl

Celebrating 10 years

ul Garbary 54 +48 61 851 99 70

Typical Polish Cuisine Slow Food Vegan Vegetarian Eco products enu Also gluten free m 66

filled with a smile on your face and a willingness to come back.QF‑7, ul. Fredry 12, tel. (+48) 725 10 05 25, www. chlopskiejadlo.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:0023:00. €€. TU FERMENTUJEMY Pickling seems to be the new hipster thing after indoor plants and knitting, and this small locale near the train station has dedicated itself fully to the new trend. Jars of delicous-looking fruits and veggies line the walls, and the menu offers exclusively dishes with fermented components, from kimchi to fermeted beet marinade to preserved lemon. For the full experience, try their fermented veggie appetizer plate and the fermented beet + pear smoothie.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 15/1, tel. (+48) 577 83 09 16, www.fermentujemy.business.site. Open 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00; closed Tue. €€. 6 HYĆKA While many restaurants in Poznań serve traditional Wielkopolska duck (served with cabbage, apples, and dumplings) and pyry z gzikiem (potatoes with cottage cheese), Hyćka is the most reliable spot to sample a wider array of regional eats, including czernina (duck blood soup), grey dumplings (made with shredded potatoes), ‘szagówki’ dumplings, and the namesake hyćka, an elderflower cordial (also served in lemonade form). Though the decor isn’t spectacular and there are better places to eat in Śródka, it’s still worth keeping this place on your radar if you’re after very authentic Poznań fare.QL‑6, Rynek Śródecki 17, tel. (+48) 535 04 50 35, www.hycka.pl. Open 11:00-21:00; Mon 11:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. T6 NA WINKLU Plebeian boiled pierogi with meat or cheese and potatoes can be had in countless restaurants in Poznań, but Śródka’s Na Winklu (On the Corner) goes beyond, focusing on baked dumplings instead. Hide away in their small but hip interior and sample creations with unorthodox ingredients like dried tomatoes and mozzarella, liver and apple, blood sausage, or Mexican-style ground beef.QL‑6, ul. Śródka 1, tel. (+48) 796 14 50 04. Open 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. U6 OBERŻA POD DZWONKIEM Resembling a traditional mountain lodge, ‘Under the Bell’ is bursting with giant timber beams, beautiful 200-year-old wooden furniture, rusty machinery, old pots and pans, piles of dusty books - even the barstools are fashioned out of saddles. It all contributes to a congenial rustic atmosphere, but the philosophy of the kitchen is hardly the throwback that the interior suggests. The menu is largely gluten-free and includes many vegetarian and vegan options; you’ll find both twists on traditional Polish and regional fare (like beef tartare, potatoes with gzik, and confit duck leg) and more international creations like chicken burgers and prawns with shimeji mushrooms. Breakfast is served MonFri until noon. Opening hours subject to change.QI‑7, ul. Garbary 54, tel. (+48) 61 851 99 70, www.oberza.com. pl. Open 09:00-16:00; Sat, Sun 13:00-18:00. €€. TU6

Restaurants OSKOMA Oskoma is the lair of Top Chef Poland finalist Adam Adamczak, who cooks up seasonally-changing, gourmet ‘new Polish’ dishes. Recently on the menu were creme of sorrel and nettles soup with smoked egg yolk, river trout, potatoes, and pickled wild garlic; beef tenderloin with Lithuanian kibinai pastries, celery, truffles, gooseberry and bacon jam, and smoked plum sauce; Siberian sturgeon caviar with buckwheat blini and mizeria cucumber salad (for a whopping 270zł); and much much more, all of which made us salivate intensely. Pair your meal with a glass of fine red from Oskoma’s extensive wine list and enjoy a refined evening in this modern, understated Jeżyce eatery.QD‑6, ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. (+48) 728 44 21 65, www.oskoma.pl. Open 08:00-22:00; Sun 08:0020:00. €€€. T RATUSZOVA One of the longest-running establishments in town, and with good reason. Located right on the main square, Ratuszova serves up a vast array of healthy and modern seasonal dishes using the innovative sous vide method not found in many other Poznań restaurants. If the beautiful and unique interior doesn’t impress you (and it should) then the menu surely will. Prepare to indulge yourself with classics such as steak, roast duck with apple, duck pierogi, borscht, sour rye soup, lamb, fresh fish, and other Polish standards, or pop in just for coffee and cake. Two-course lunch is served Mon-Fri 12:00-17:00 for only 19zł. A perfect spot to spoil yourself.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 55, tel. (+48) 61 851 05 13, www.ratuszova.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€. T6 RESTAURACJA BAMBERKA A long-standing restaurant squirrelled away in the complex of buildings at the centre of the town square. Step in and you’ll find stained glass panels, floral touches, and a strong European menu that includes a good selection of local dishes like duck with cabbage and dumplings, czernina (duck blood soup), potatoes with gzik, gray dumplings with cabbage, and blood sausage.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 61 852 99 17, www.bamberka.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. To6 RYNEK Sheraton’s upscale dining offering is Rynek (The Main Square), offering creative, seasonally-changing ‘new Polish’ dishes and fusion cuisine - extravagant and delectable. During weekdays, 19zł salad buffet lunch is available between 12:00 and 15:00, while on Sunday between 13:00 and 16:00 guests can sample Polish Sunday lunch (obiad niedzielny) in an all-you-can-eat, buffet + live cooking station format for 99zł, alc and desserts included. A buffet breakfast makes an appearance Mon-Fri 6:3010:30 and weekends 7:30-11:00.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www. rynekpoznan.pl. Open 06:30-24:00; Sat, Sun 07:3024:00. €€€. TU

TRADITIONAL POLISH CUISINE A.D.1954 WHERE KING JAN II KAZIMIERZ WAZA RESIDED IN 16571658 YOU MAY SAVOUR AUTHENTIC TRADITIONAL POLISH CUISINE AND DISHES OF AN INTERNATIONAL FLAVOUR EXPERTLY PREPARED BY OUR HIGHLY EXPERIENCED CHEF. FOUR DIFFERENT AREAS ARE AVAILABLE FOR OUR GUESTS: RESTAURANT, CAFE, BAR & SUMMER GARDEN

WWW.RATUSZOVA.PL +48 618 510 513

Restaurants

Duck with dumplings and red cabbage

WIEJSKIE JADŁO Wiejskie Jadło is just what you expect from a Polish restaurant - a warm wooden interior, bustling staff, and a huge menu of hearty grub like bread with pickles and lard, bigos, gołąbki, potato pancakes, pierogi, regional duck, and more. We enjoyed the żurek (sour rye) soup and after gutbusting sausages, it’s good we didn’t have far to go - they’re located just off the market square.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from ul. Franciszkańska), tel. (+48) 61 853 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€. TU6

SCANDINAVIAN

Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from the Franciszkańska street) tel. (+48) 618 53 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl

LARS, LARS & LARS With a menu featuring mouth-watering seasonal options such as the smoked Dutch maatjes herring with hasselback potatoes, vegetables, and creme fraiche and the wild boar steak with potato pancakes and cherries, we were hard pushed to actually make a final choice on what meal to settle for. Scandinavian restaurant Lars, Lars & Lars is situated in the swanky City Park complex (a brisk 10 minute walk from the Sheraton and Mercure hotels) and well worth a visit. A bright and airy interior greets you as you enter and the smart but informal surroundings provide a great atmosphere for chatting to other diners as you indulge in your chosen dish.QA‑9, ul. Wojskowa 4, tel. (+48) 665 50 98 95, www.larslarslars.pl. Open 09:00-22:00; Mon 12:00-22:00; Fri 09:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:0021:00. €€€. T6

DARK RESTAURANT

SEAFOOD

“Adventurous” isn’t a word we often like to pair with the word “dining” (after all, that’s how folks on reality TV end up eating spiders), but this place proves to be the exception. As its name implies, Dark Restaurant is devoted to having diners eat their dinner in inky blackness. We’re not talking mood lighting, either; the cavernous room is so dark that the waiters actually wear night vision goggles. The idea behind Dark Restaurant is that by impairing your sense of sight, you enhance your other senses, which makes for a more exciting dining experience. It’s also a great excuse to eat with your hands, because utensils are completely useless without the benefit of eyesight. Each of the menu themes - bizarre food, mood food, and a more standard option - comes with a variety of courses, and you aren’t told what you’re digging into until the meal is over. All these factors add up to a messy and intriguing meal that will have you guessing with every bite. Sure, some of the foods are obvious, but basil ice cream? Oranges with sea salt? Your tongue will undoubtedly be tantalized. Fortunately, your meal ends with a chance to talk with your waiter and the head chef, who delight in making you guess what you ate.QI‑7, ul. Garbary 48, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 57, www.darkrestaurant.pl. Open 16:00-21:30; closed Sun. €€€€€. 6

RESTAURACJA MOMO At Momo pasta dishes, duck, and salads are all on offer, but it’s the fresh seafood that really stands out. The specialty is the 80zł seafood plate filled with mussels, calamari, octopus, and prawns, but the chef creates new delightful and imaginative dishes daily, with the first page of the menu changed each morning. Of the two rooms to choose from, we prefer the smaller and cosier one, but many diners will no doubt prefer to keep an eye on the open kitchen. In the warm season, you can also sit out on a terrace hidden behind the building.QI‑7, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 501 41 51 36, www.momolovebite.pl. Open 13:00-23:00; Mon, Sun 13:00-21:00. €€€. T6

THAI THAI FAST WOK A little gem of a place if you fancy quick, simple, and tasty Thai favourites at lunch-special prices, Fast Wok was recently enlarged to accommodate more traffic. Found through an archway leading from ul. Ratajczaka, Fast Wok, while having a Pole in the open kitchen, does seem to have got the basics of this ethnic dish right, something which isn’t a given in Poland. Nasi Goreng, red and green curry, and chicken in black bean sauce are a few of the dishes

Restaurants on the concise menu.QG‑8, ul. Ratajczaka 18 (Pasaż Apollo), tel. (+48) 508 52 89 89, www.fastwok.pl. Open 11:00-20:00; Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:0019:00. €€. 6 THAI THAI From fresh oysters, monkfish in red curry, and crispy duck, to classics like pad thai, green curry, and mango with sticky rice, this high-end Thai chain prepares veritable Southeast Asian feasts in a refined interior with dark wood, floral lattices, and Buddha ornaments. Top the experience off with a bottle of fine red, or try the 35zł lunches, served from 12:00 till 16:00 on weekdays. QA‑9, ul. Wojskowa 4, tel. (+48) 885 19 98 85, www.thaithai.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€.

VEGETARIAN BYCZYN NEW ‘No bitchin’ in my kitchen,’ proclaims the wall art, and the vaguely combative staff seem to agree. This small vegan eatery focuses on elaborate veggie burgers, which first entice with creative topping combinations and then disappoint with bland taste. We tried the banh mi burger, loaded with sweet tofu, pickled carrots, red onion, fresh herbs, and vegan mayo, which did nothing for our tastebuds; nevertheless, you might have better luck with some of the other creations, like the falafel burger with sweet potato, eggplant, and zucchini, or the ‘black cheeseburger’ with a bean & peanut patty, daikon bacon, and vegan cheese sauce.QG‑10, ul. Górna Wilda 61, tel. (+48) 730 56 46 54. Open 13:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 13:0022:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. €€. T6 FALLA Falafel bowls so good, they make us want to weep. From the assorted pickles to the creamy hummus to the highly addictive seasoned pita bread, Falla churns out dishes that are not only expertly prepared, but also beautifully presented. First-timers will be wise to go for Fatima’s Hand, an impressive assortment of Falla’s best creations, which actually does come in the shape of a hand. Also on the menu: seasonal dishes taking advantage of whatever Polish greengrocers currently have to offer, hummus, wraps, shakshouka, Turkish ayran, cocktails, and more. All this in a warm and stylish interior with industrial elements, squirrelled away in Poznań’s hip Jeżyce district. Recommended.QB‑6, ul. Wawrzyniaka 19, tel. (+48) 576 95 04 73. Open 12:0021:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00. €€. T6 WYPAS Widely regarded as Poz’s best vegan haunt, Wypas is known for heaping plates of “a bit of everything”; choose your adventure from Japanese, Middle Eastern, Mexican, Polish, or Spanish - or perhaps a nice ol’ bowl of ramen or tom kha soup. Bring your eating pants (trousers for you Brits) and wrestle local plant-eaters for seats at this below-ground hole-in-thewall.QB‑6, ul. Jackowskiego 38, tel. (+48) 796 14 41 15. Open 10:00-22:00; Mon, Tue, Sun 10:00-18:00. €€. T6 69

Nightlife

Drinking from jars at Whiskey in the Jar (p.76).

Poznań bars are flexible - no matter what the official closing times are, most bars and pubs will stay open until the last customer has stumbled out. Most night spots are concentrated around the Old Town Square, but also check out ul. Nowowiejskiego (G‑6) and ul. Taczaka (F/G‑8) - both of which draw students in droves. If you don’t see it listed here, visit our website - poznan.inyourpocket. com - for reviews of almost every place in town, and the opportunity to leave your comments about all of them. Below are a few suggestions depending on what you might be looking for: SPLURGE The best cocktails in Poznań are found in Twelve Cocktails (p.76), Dram Explorers Bar (p.72), and Bar Susznia (p.71), with the latter conveniently situated close to one of the most exclusive danceterias in town - SQ (p.77). SQUARE With so many options, Poz’s Rynek can be overwhelming. Without doubt the most popular place is Brovaria (p.71), which regularly sees people queuing for tables in order to enjoy the in-house brewed beers. Of course it’s impossible not to mention Pacha (p.77) here - the

Where’s the party? /PoznanInYourPocket 70

legendary Ibiza club which has brought its international cred and celebrity crowds to Poz; good luck getting in. For the plebs, it’s the ever-popular Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa (p.73), of course. LADS If you need to catch the match, Poz has a rather classy sports bar in the Sheraton’s Someplace Else (p.74). Ministerstwo Browaru (p.73) emphasises plenty of obscure beers (including their own) for connoisseurs, while Brovaria (p.71) has excellent lagers brewed right on-site. Keep the night going in Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa (p.73), a cheap latenight eatery on the Rynek that will help you offset your hangover with piles of white sausage and pickled herring; it’s also a great place to meet the locals. COUPLES Another vote for Twelve Cocktails (p.76), Dram Explorers Bar (p.76) and Bar Susznia (p.71), the three best destinations for seductive cocktails. Those who prefer wine should check out Casa de Vinos (p.73) and Wino na Kieliszki (p.73), and if it’s entertainment you’re after, head to Blue Note Jazz Club (p.72), which attracts great international performers to serenade your better half. ALTERNATIVE Catch an underground concert or an obscure film screening at the cultural peculiarity that is Pies Andaluzyjski (p.72), participate in the Polish craft beer obsession at Piwna Stopa (p.73) and Ministerstwo Browaru (p.73), or try a self-serve wine bar concept at Wino na Kieliszki (p.72).

Nightlife SYMBOL KEY N Credit cards not accepted C‑1 Map Coordinate U Facilities for the disabled 6 Animal friendly X Smoking room available

E Live music

o Year-round Garden

BARS & PUBS BAR SUSZNIA Whoa, if there’s one place that keeps leaving an impact it’s the Blow Up. Their bar is the final word in industrial chic, with metal floors, exposed brickwork, and ceilings that stretch to the clouds. The artwork is mad, and deliberately messes with your head, as do the molecular cocktails, truly the work of a scientific hand. An in-house cigar lounge and extensive selection of wines complete the look; it’s not often we attach the word unmissable to a venue, so take note and visit.QG‑9, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 91, www.blowuphall5050.com. Open 17:00-01:00. U BASILIUM A smart and cosy little location found just off the Rynek, and well-loved by the entire IYP team. Warm lighting and decorations ranging from old gramophones to flattened beer bottles suspended from the ceiling help create a laid-back atmosphere, but the main reason for parking yourself in one of the comfy chairs or propping yourself up an empty wooden barrel is the vast selection of beer on offer. Whilst there are a few on draught, it’s the rows and rows of bottles on the shelves that will have you gawping and unsure quite where to start. With over 150 brews, this is one of the best craft beer bars in Poz. In addition to this, there’s a nice selection of snacks.QI‑7, ul. Woźna 21, tel. (+48) 790 33 37 56. Open 15:00-01:00; Fri 15:00-02:00; Sat 13:00-02:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. U6 BROVARIA Brovaria feels an integral part of Poznań life, and it’s certainly become established as the main expat haunt since the demise of Dom Vikingów. Yet while it feels an ingrained piece of Poznań one look at the design reveals a modern, industrial space, one where steel and glass combine to create a sharp looking area that looks as edgy now as when it first opened. However, coming here to admire the interiors would be missing the point; this place is all about beer, namely the excellent house lagers that are brewed out back in the copper vats. Here’s one of the best microbreweries in Poland, quite possibly the best: enjoy it.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Open 10:00-01:00.

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Enjoy your evenings at SomePlace Else!

happy hours delicious burgers and steaks craft beers and great drinks sport events live stream SomePlace Else (Sheraton Poznan Hotel) 3/9 Bukowska Str., Poznan phone: 61 655 2000 www.poznan.someplace-else.pl 71

Nightlife HOT BEER? Though the Polish winter is famous for being long and brutal, fear not, the Poles have a method for taking the bite out of this blustery season, and as you can probably guess - it’s alcohol (congratulations, Kowalski). For those in need of a warm-up that wince at the thought of vodka, we have two words for you: hot beer, or ‘grzane piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas present, and others still an utter profanity. Regardless, it’s a necessary invention and a must-try (at least once) for anyone travelling in PL during the winter months. Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ - or mulled wine - as you’ll notice by the barrelshaped stands selling cups of it on the market square during December’s Christmas fair. The popular regional brand is Grzaniec Galicyjski and if you enjoy drinking it in public so much, you’ll be delighted to discover you can buy it in almost any alcohol shop and easily prepare it at home as well. Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...and Na zdrowie!

LIVE MUSIC BLUE NOTE JAZZ CLUB A vast multi-level jazz club whose spangly interior has shades of 90s club tragedy written all over it. Don’t let that discourage you, however; this is a legendary venue that has hosted some of the biggest names in Polish and international jazz. Do check their website for what’s cooking first - this space has been known to be rented out for teen hip-hop nights and other hoodedtop twaddle, and if there’s no concert scheduled then they aren’t open.QF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 79, tel. (+48) 61 851 04 08, www.bluenote.poznan.pl. Open 45 min before event; check website. E PIES ANDALUZYJSKI “Theatre / music / vodka” - this is how ‘An Andalusian Dog’ describes itself in short. Named after the 1929 surrealist short film by Luis Buñuel and Salvador Dalí, this eccentric den supplements its already alluring atmosphere with concerts, workshops, and performances.QG‑6, ul. Nowowiejskiego 17, tel. (+48) 505 27 91 21. Open 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:0003:00; Sun 18:00-24:00; closed Mon. XE 72

CHMIELNIK One of the best bars on ul. Żydowska, Chmielnik sports a smart wood and stone interior, on-site brewing tanks, and a spot-on selection of microbrews to pull in a trendy 20-something crowd. The seasonal garden out back is a summer staple, and it has recently expanded, along with the entire locale. Hands down, this is one of our favourite places for lazy get-togethers that go late into the night. QI‑6, ul. Żydowska 27, tel. (+48) 790 33 39 46. Open 16:00-24:00; Thu 16:00-01:00; Fri 16:00-02:00; Sat 13:0002:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. 6 COOLIOZUM We were a little sceptical at the beginning but this place is unquestionably Poznań’s best sports bar. This isn’t the dark, divey venue you may be used to, rather a large modern space involving ice white sofas and a blue-lit bar; TVs aside, other bonuses include around 120 beers, as well as foosball and a few poker tables which seem to have a steady flow of customers. Head through the archway at no. 45 and find it down some stairs on your left.QG‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 45, tel. (+48) 783 48 76 91, www.cooliozum.pl. 6 DRAM EXPLORERS BAR Grab your explorer’s hat and set sail for the famed world of fine cocktails inside this classy, leather-heavy bar just off the main square. Never ones to keep things safe and boring, Dram centred their newest signature cocktail collection around the Peaky Blinders, a 19th-century street gang from Birmingham; try gems including ‘Alfie’s Bakery’ (two types of rum and fresh rosemary) and ‘Polly’s Choice’ (with flowers, sparkling wine, and Angostura bitters), or go for the shareable ‘Order of the Peaky Blinders’, a flask containing 4-6 cocktail portions. Those who prefer strong, barrel-aged spirits without the mix-ins can choose from an enviable selection of whisky, including seasonal tasting tests.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 92, tel. (+48) 739 90 31 97, www.dram.bar. Open 18:00-02:00; Sun 16:00-23:00; closed Mon. E HOLA HOLA The current ‘place to be’ on ul. Wrocławska, Hola Hola is swarmed by loud revellers the minute the sun sets on a weekend night. You can’t miss it when walking along Poznań’s party street, and if you like to drink in the centre of action, this might just be for you (if not, consider checking out their less crowded basement). The hip-n-cool checklist gets all checks: trendy light fixtures, exposed brick, and drinks served in mason jars are basically obligatory these days.QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 10. Open 17:00-02:00; Thu 17:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-05:00. ISTNY WINE TAPAS BEER Refined but mercifully laid back (leave that tie at home), ISTNY offers a selection of 11 wines, 11 beers, and 2 ciders - all on tap - in a hip, industrial interior. Make sure to grab an assortment of tapas, which include pickled garlic cloves, prosciutto, chorizo, jamón serrano, and olives.QH‑8, ul. Podgórna 12, tel. (+48) 606 61 04 30. Open 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-02:00; closed Sun. 6

Nightlife MIEJSCÓWKA Once the city’s most representative street, Św. Marcin has long been a snooze lane crammed with mediocre establishments you’d hurry past on your way to the main square. Luckily, the tide is starting to turn with the addition of increasingly recommendation-worthy restaurants and bars - and here’s one. Very ‘current’ what with the neons, exposed brick, and Pinteresty glassware, Miejscówka might not be the most original, but it does earn our seal of approval, and probably Instagram’s as well. The target group here is the more hipster types, so expect lots of whimsical cocktails and colourful shots.QG‑8, ul. Święty Marcin 29. Open 19:00-02:00. MINISTERSTWO BROWARU One of our favourite haunts for Polish craft beers; find AleBrowar brews like Black Hope and Rowing Jack on tap alongside the establishment’s own Ministerstwo beers and top-rated European names like Delirium Tremens. If we had it our way all pubs would be run by folks as knowledgeable as these fellows, who’ve boiled it down to wood benches, outdoor seating, and great beer. If you’re up before it’s afternoon, you’ll find the equally awesome Minister Cafe upstairs. Second pub localization at ul. Wroniecka 16.QG‑8, ul. Ratajczaka 34, tel. (+48) 601 53 37 47. Open 16:00-02:00. o6 PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA The newspapered interior and nostalgic communist-era concept here are exactly the same as their dozens of locations all over the country (including a second in Poz at ul. Wrocławska 8, C-2): dirt cheap booze and dirt cheap grub like pickled herring and ‘awesome toasts’ to soak up the aforementioned booze. This place is packed at all hours, though it’s best sampled during the later stages of the evening when you’re guaranteed a right assortment of characters who are happy to spill out their life story for the price of a 4.50zł beer. Very ‘Polish’ and a welcome alternative to some of the Rynek’s more expensive and snobby bars. Karaoke nights take place Mon, Tue, Thu, and Sun 20:00-02:00.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 85, tel. (+48) 791 85 95 55. Open 09:00-05:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-05:00. U PIWNA STOPA Heralded for its broad selection - around 200 bottled beers and 16 on tap - Piwna Stopa is wildly popular with beer connoisseurs who don’t give two craps about trendy light fixtures or the instagrammability of the interior decor. Not that it’s bad: there’s a certain Czech tavern feel what with the old-fashioned wooden chairs, wall lamps, framed miscellanea, and fireplace (!) and live bands play jazz, blues, and rock during the warm season. Their leafy summer garden is highly recommendable, as are the cheese boards, smoked-sausage hot dogs, and other meaty treats (there’s even venison!).QI‑6, ul. Szewska 7, tel. (+48) 784 44 27 33, www.piwnastopa.pl. Open 15:00-01:00; Mon 15:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-02:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. 6

WINE BARS CASA DE VINOS Thirty seconds from bustling Półwiejska Street, Casa de Vinos wine bar serves as an ideal stop-off for those who know they deserve a relaxing glass of wine (or two) after a hard day of shopping and sightseeing. The friendly and knowledgeable staff are happy enough to talk you through the 300 plus bottles on display before offering you a comfy seat in which to enjoy your final choice. It’s small, it’s intimate and it makes for a perfect little place to sample some of the finest wines from around the globe. Keep your credit card at hand - you’ll be needing it when it comes to ordering a bottle or three to take back home.QH‑8, ul. Krysiewicza 5/2, tel. (+48) 61 815 28 26, www.casadevinos.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:00; closed Sun. WINO NA KIELISZKI (WINE BY THE GLASS) The city’s first self-serve wine bar, ‘Wine by the Glass’ lets you pour your own vintage from a selection of forty. Just load up a pre-paid card by the bar, order a cheese board or some nice tapas, and enjoy your Dionysiac evening. Recommended. QG‑6, ul. Młyńska 12, tel. (+48) 61 627 03 00, www.mlynska12.pl. Open 18:0024:15; Fri, Sat 18:00-01:30; closed Mon, Sun. 6 73

Nightlife PRL PUB There’s two communist theme bars in Poznań, and this place has the lower profile, the non-existent marketing budget, and a tiny entrance that’s easy to miss. But it’s certainly not second best, and if anything its underground chambers make it all the more convincing in its role as a hidden piece of history. Packed with memorabilia from the People’s Republic, and that includes pictures of Soviet icons and even a riot shield once used to suppress the striking proletaryat.QI‑6, ul. Żydowska 11 (entrance from ul. Mokra). Open 16:0023:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-02:00.

DISCO POLO!

Fanatic band

No, it’s not an equestrian sport involving bell-bottomed jockeys (good guess, though), Disco Polo is a rather peculiar and uniquely Polish sub-genre of dance music. In fact you may have already been exposed to it without even realising it. It could have been blaring from a suped-up Fiat Duze rolling by, pulsing from a radio in a Żabka convenience store or been the soundtrack to that local wedding you attended a few months back. This cult genre first emerged in the early 90’s as folk musicians and wedding bands finally were able to upgrade their antiquated audio gear and buy some shiny new keyboards with built in drum machines (and 70’s disco presets). By mixing a little Italo Disco (read: Eurotrash Techno) into their Casiotone folk-anthems, a music revolution was born. Disco Polo quickly conquered every wedding hall, village disco and nightclub throughout the land. By 1995 there were Disco Polo programmes on every major radio and television station and even former Polish President Aleksander Kwaśniewski used a Disco Polo song during his presidential campaign that year. Times were good and Disco Polo labels like Blue Star and ‘bands’ such as Bayer Full, Boys and Shazza were pumping out the hits and rolling in the zlotties. But alas, the good times couldn’t last forever. Disco Polo was scoffed at from the very beginning by the likes of intellectuals, music critics and professional musicians who viewed it as hokey and primitive (which it was/is). The tide began to turn for the genre as a whole when a few scandals involving disco polo artists and local mafia bosses started to make headlines in ‘96 and ‘97. These scandals coincided with a huge drop in cassette and CD sales. By the late 90’s the wedding party was officially over and the long national hangover had begun. Public opinion and the mainstream media quickly turned and openly derided and lampooned the jovial genre. Nowadays, the Disco Polo genre is about as respected as Country & Western or Smooth Jazz. Nonetheless, Disco Polo artists continue to break album sales records and tour regularly despite being the butt of almost every musical joke. The truth is, while it’s been officially cool to make fun of Disco Polo for the better part of a decade, it’s every red-blooded Pole’s guilty pleasure. 74

PROLETARYAT So what if Stalin killed umpteen times more people than Hitler? Communism can be a hoot, at least it is if you’re drunk, so head to this commie bar and raise a glass to Uncle Joe. Quality local lager, 4zł vodka shots, and - of course - an assortment of classic Eastern European drinking snacks like pickles and bread smeared with lard - ensure nights aren’t dull, and you’ll find this piece of socialist paradise decidedly stuffed with Cold War keepsakes and Iron Curtain mementos. Pride of place goes to Lenin, with his giant plaster head peering through the street-side window.QI‑7, ul. Wrocławska 9, tel. (+48) 508 17 36 08. Open 16:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 15:00-04:00; Sun 15:00-02:00. 6 PUB STRZELNICA NEW One of the more laid-back pubs in the area (you can actually carry on a conversation!), the ‘Shooting Range’ offers craft beer, including local brew Moczybroda, whiskey, and mixed drinks, plus themed parties with live music, stand-up shows, live sports, and a PlayStation with FIFA 19.QH/I‑7, ul. Wrocławska 5, tel. (+48) 606 99 12 12. Open 17:00-03:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00-05:00; Sun 17:00-02:00. E6 SOMEPLACE ELSE SPE is a natural born winner – few places are better geared to meet foreign demands, and while the prices are undoubtedly steep (do you expect anything else from the Sheraton?), it’s a place where foreigners and locals mix with seamless ease, chatting about travels while sports beam down from their 9 TVs. American in spirit, you’ll find Route 66 extras mingled with rock pics, a strong menu of Tex Mex, burgers, and steaks, as well as more whimsical touches such as a car bonnet bursting from the wall. Taking centre stage is a circular bar, the perfect base to chat to staff while they fix earthquake cocktails and velvet smooth Guinness. Happy hours commence at 18:00 and go until 20:00 MonSat.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else.pl. Open 18:00-24:00; closed Sun. UE

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Nightlife

Nightlife TWELVE COCKTAILS & CO. Located in the svelte Młyńska 12 business centre, also home to The Time restaurant and Wino na Kieliszki wine bar, Twelve Cocktails offer classic cocktails, mocktails, and mouthwatering signature creations using unusual ingredients - and prices start at just 25zł. To feel even more glamorous, take the stairs to the rooftop, where you can admire panoramic views of Poznań.QG‑6, ul. Młyńska 12, tel. (+48) 61 627 03 23, www.mlynska12.pl. Open Wed, Thu 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 19:00-02:00 only. XE UŁAN BROWAR Brewing up some decent craft beer to drink alongside regionally-inspired pub grub, Ułan is a new addition to the Poz’s City Park complex located in lovingly refurbished Ułan/Uhlan (Polish light cavalry) barracks. The military links might end at the name, but that makes no difference to those who come here to watch the big game with their mates, play some pool, or listen to the occasional standup. QA‑10, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26, tel. (+48) 888 08 52 22, www.ulanbrowar.pl. Open 16:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. U6 WHISKEY IN THE JAR What with Stary Rynek being most people’s first port of call, it’s always good to have a bit of variety. Whiskey in the Jar ticks the box for ‘good-old-fashioned rock ‘n’ roll bar,’ but this isn’t your typical grubby rock pub - rather a classy joint serving steaks and burgers and killer cocktails guaranteed to leave your head spinning (Don’t believe us? See how many of their Jack Daniel’s Whiskey Jars you can work your way through in one sitting). Keep in mind that the kitchen closes at 23:30 Mon-Sat and 22:30 Sun.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 100, tel. (+48) 515 72 03 36, www.whiskeyinthejar.pl. Open 13:00-01:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-01:00. E6 WHISKY BAR 88 Steal yourself away to the darkened surroundings of Whisky Bar in City Park where you will find the ideal conditions to sit back and enjoy one of well over 1200 different types of the sainted liquid. Whether you’re looking for whiskey, whisky, or whatever it is in Japanese, you will not be disappointed with the elegantly backlit display cases holding some wonderful choices including some 25-year old single malts. Comfortable chairs and a modern take on an ‘open-fire’ complete the picture.QA‑9, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26A (City Park Hotel & Residence), tel. (+48) 888 32 18 88, www.whiskybar88.pl. Open 16:00-01:00; Sun 16:00-24:00. UE

Wine Tapas Beer Podgórna 12, Poznań

WIŚNIEWSKI The spotlight here is firmly on wiśniówka, traditional Polish cherry vodka made in small batches by Wiśniewski’s crew. With bottles of their product lining the walls, discrete neons, and huge cherry lights dangling from the ceiling, this unique bar offers more than your run-of-the-mill alcohol experience. Grab a shot for 11zł or a 0.7L bottle for 79zł.QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 21/2, tel. (+48) 693 07 07 70, www.wisniewski.ltd. Open 12:00-01:00; Wed, Thu 12:0002:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00. Uo6

Nightlife

CLUBS CUBA LIBRE Set down a shadowy courtyard basement, Cuba Libre is a bouncy Latin venue replete with whitewashed walls, pics of Che, and wall space dedicated to an assortment of Cuban goodies. This place goes for detail, so much so that drinkers can even take a seat in one of those clapped-out vintage bangers you see pootling round the streets of Havana. The Fiesta Latino Fridays and Disco Latino Saturdays prove seriously popular.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. (+48) 61 855 23 44, www.cuba-libre.pl. Open 22:00-05:00; Fri, Sat 21:00-05:00; closed Sun. XE CUBA LIBRE SOCIAL CLUB An extension of dance-scene favourite Cuba Libre, the Social Club is an exclusive Cuban-themed cocktail bar with a focus on fine rum; try, for instance, their ‘Strawberry Revolution’ (rum, strawberry puree, and grapefruit juice) or ‘¡Hola!’ (rum, malibu, mango puree, lemon juice, and ginger syrup), both made with Havana Club Añejo 3 años white rum. There are also tapas choose from sandwiches, empanadas, cheese boards, and more.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. (+48) 605 04 07 66, www. cuba-libre.pl. Open 19:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 19:00-03:00. E PACHA Pacha? As in, the world’s most famous clubbing franchise Pacha? In Poznań? We’re as shocked as you, but yep, those cherries are real, and this is the only Pacha in Central Europe validating Poznań’s growing international rep as a prime party city. Decked out in plush design and pumping out house

music for the masses, Pacha is a divorcee’s paradise and one which is attracting big crowds looking to dance away those working-week blues. Will its reputation be enough to pull in the punters from Warsaw, Wrocław, and Berlin? Time will tell... QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. (+48) 519 30 02 60, www. pachapoznan.com. Open Fri, Sat only 22:00-05:00. X PROJEKT LAB Inspired by the Berlin party scene - in fact, conceived as a direct result of the to-be owners’ wild night at techno club Berghain Projekt LAB is an experimental space and underground music venue that proved an immense hit as soon as it opened doors in 2013. The music of choice here is electronic and all sorts of alternative beats, often supplied by international DJs and bands. Brave the long entry lines and you’ll be rewarded with a true multimedia experience.QI‑6, ul. Grochowe Łąki 5, tel. (+48) 731 47 71 02, www.projektlab.pl. Open Thu 22:0004:00, Fri, Sat 23:00-08:00 only. X SQ Dance with the fittest and the hippest in SQ, by far the most envied dance space in town. Silly haircuts and expensive wardrobes abound here, and they’re here for the music not the design – DJs arrive from all across Poland to play here, sometimes even further. The interior isn’t all that, but the nights are legend, and you’ll find no better place to puff the chest out and behave like a big time Bertie.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 663 78 65 47, www.sqklub.pl. Open Wed 22:00-04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00-06:00 only. XE 77

Shopping

Pamiątki z Poznania (p.80).

Yes, that’s a Burberry store you see in Poznań. And Armani. Even Versace. You can wander through the vast, award-winning Stary Browar mall or the new Poznań City Centre spending złoty until you’ve solved the European debt crisis, but if you’re bringing gifts back to show your loved ones what a trip to Poznań is like, a Burberry bag made in London won’t cut it. That’s why we’ve made suggestions below for where to get gifts for darling that actually say, “I went to Poland.” You’ll find more local gift ideas and direct buying opportunities online in the Poland IYP Shop: iyp.me/polandshop.

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but since March 2018 new regulations that will eventually ban Sunday trading in Poland entirely have gone into effect. Phased in gradually, in 2018 trade was allowed on two Sundays each month, and in 2019 on just one (except during the holiday season in December); 2020 will see only seven shopping Sundays in the entire year. There are a few exemptions from the rule, namely Żabka convenience stores, pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets, and souvenir shops (oh thank god). Note that the Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep only on those Sundays when trade is allowed. The following is a list of Sundays when shops will be open: Nov 24 | Dec 15 | Dec 22 | Dec 29 | Jan 26 78

ALCOHOL BASILIUM A shop for serious beer lovers, Basilium stocks around 150 different types of the stuff, giving you a good chance to take home a few quality local flavours with a bit more character than the mass-produced brews found stocked in supermarkets and local chain stores. The friendly staff are more than happy to go through the choices with anyone looking for advice before making their purchase. QI‑7, ul. Woźna 21, tel. (+48) 790 33 37 56. Open 15:00-01:00; Fri 15:00-02:00; Sat 13:00-02:00; Sun 13:00-24:00.

AMBER & JEWELLERY FREY WILLE Fine jewellery and fashion accessories inspired by masters like Klimt and Mucha. Frey Wille boutique hails from Austria, and what sets it apart from most places is that the items on offer are handmade. The philosophy of the boutique is to create works of art which are rooted in humanism; pieces which are bourne from an artistic love and passion, and indeed, made by artists themselves. What’s more, much of the jewellery undergoes an enamelling process, binding fine glass onto metal, which revolutionised Frey Wille’s works from 1981 onwards to offer the fine pieces you see today. QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 13 94, www.frey-wille.com. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

Shopping GALERIA YES YES jewellery stores can be found throughout Poland, but this location on ul. Paderewskiego sets itself apart by being an exclusive gallery, curated by YES founder Magda Kwiatkiewicz herself, showcasing the highest achievements in artistic jewellery by Polish designers. As such, it has played a significant role in the shape and direction of the Polish jewellery market for over a decade, and in addition to their lovely commercial display cases, the exhibits held here are always worth a peek.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 851 58 48, www.galeriayes.pl. Open 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00; closed Sun. LILOU Pendants, charms, and delicate chains abound in this boutique-y jewellery shop staffed by immaculately-attired ladies keen to assist and advise potential buyers. Glamorous but not intimidating, this is the place to browse miniature shiny trinkets during an afternoon shopping break. Also located at the Posnania Shopping Centre (ul. Pleszewska 1, 10:00-22:00 Mon-Sat, 10:00-21:00 on ‘shopping Sundays’. QH‑8, ul. Półwiejska 8/1-2, tel. (+48) 797 33 43 52, www.lilou.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-17:00. ŚWIAT BURSZTYNU Major amber retailer and wholesaler with over 25 years of experience to their name - that’s a lot in a country that only returned to a market economy in 1989. Now with two locations, the second being the behemoth Posnania Shopping Centre.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 66 88/(+48) 607 07 07 33, www.desta-amber.com. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. W. KRUK Poland’s oldest and most revered chain of jewellery stores caters to men and women with tastes that range from classic amber pendants and Tag Heuer watches to modern designs of their own making. Also at Stary Browar (ul. Półwiejska 42, G-4), Posnania (ul. Pleszewska 1, M-10), and Galeria Malta (ul. Maltańska 1, J-4). Opening hours subject to change.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 2, tel. (+48) 661 98 05 61, www.wkruk.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:0015:00; closed Sun.

ART & ANTIQUES ANTYKWARIAT (ANTIQUE SHOP) Specialises in old toys, technological relics, pre-war postcards, and other special keepsakes.QI‑7, ul. Klasztorna 1, tel. (+48) 61 851 75 13. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:0014:00; closed Sun. ANTYKWARIAT Solid collection of antiques collected by Piotr Sobisiak. On offer is furniture, porcelain, silver cutlery, pitchers, jewellery and other pre-war treasures.QG‑7, ul. Kantaka 10, tel. (+48) 61 851 88 10, www.gem-art.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. 79

Shopping ANTYKWARIAT NAUKOWY A vintage bookseller that rewards those who are patient enough to dig through boxes of old postcards, prints, and telegrams. It’s easy to lose track of time while meandering along the well-stocked shelves.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 3/5, tel. (+48) 61 852 63 12, www.antykwariat.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun.

POLISH VODKA

FASHION & ACCESSORIES

The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most popular of which we describe below. WIŚNIÓWKA Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka, wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. You’ll see students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa is incredibly palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice. KRUPNIK A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added. ŻUBRÓWKA One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’ 80

MOLIERA 2 BAZAR POZNAŃSKI Located in the gorgeously renovated Bazar Hotel, this luxury fashion boutique features women’s clothing, shoes, and accessories from top designer brands like Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Kenzo, Burberry, Moncler, Manolo Blahnic, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Aquazzura, Balmain, Isabel Marant, Alexander McQueen, Beach Bunny, Self Portrait, Mystique, Maison Michel, Herve Leger, and Zimmermann. Shop online to find even more swag and savings.QH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 10, tel. (+48) 512 03 88 08, www.Moliera2.com. Open 11:00-19:00.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS CEPELIA A leading chain of souvenir shops selling native arts and handicrafts.QI‑7, ul. Klasztorna 21, tel. (+48) 61 852 58 14, www.cepelia.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. CITY INFORMATION CENTRE A wide selection of souvenirs connected with Poznań including lots of stuff with the most popular symbols of Poznań. Pick up t-shirts, cups, ornaments, post cards, and the like all associated with the head-banging goats, for instance. You’ll also find tickets and event information, plus the most popular selection of books and albums relating to Poznań, Wielkopolska, and Poland in foreign languages.QG‑7, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. (+48) 61 854 07 54, www.cik.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:0017:00; closed Sun. Y HANDMADE For souvenirs which are both authentic and actually useful, hand-painted pottery is the way to go; easily recognisable across Poland, these beauties from the Bolesławiec Pottery Factory have a trademark look and a tradition dating back to the 14th century. We recommend skipping the tacky tourist kitsch and considering Handmade your one-stop-shop for gifts to bring back home. Whisper “IYP” to the cashier for a special 5% discount.QF‑7, ul. Mielżyńskiego 16, tel. (+48) 61 284 17 04. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. PAMIĄTKI Z POZNANIA Souvenirs galore - magnets, t-shirts, postcards (oh the nostalgia), handicrafts, mugs, and wonderful Bolesławiec ceramics should take care of your most pressing souvenir needs.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 25A, tel. (+48) 517 59 41 38. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00.

Shopping

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang. Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand. Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls. Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry.

POZNAŃ, Półwiejska 8/1-2 Street POSNANIA SHOPPING & LIFESTYLE, 1 Pleszewska Street lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

Shopping MARKETS

Poznań’s open-air markets are the best places to get cheap local produce and some of the only places in the centre where you can buy vegetables that aren’t white or in jars. Add to that meats, cheeses, spices, baked goods, doorknobs, dog leashes, pagers, potholders and literally anything else you can think of and you’ve got yourself a nifty cultural experience as well. Practise your “proszę” and point skills at any of the unique shopping environments listed below, and remember that haggling and attempting to pay with large bills will both be met with disdain. JEŻYCE MARKET (TARGOWISKO JEŻYCKIE) One of Poznań’s most historic and centrally located markets is just west of the Old Town on historic Rynek Jeżycki. Established in 1891, this was once one of the city’s finest market squares, as evidenced by the faded glory of some of the intricate Art Nouveau facades on the tenement buildings that surround it. Lately the area has been going through a bit of a resurgence, and though the market itself may be a bit tatty and you can hardly expect English to be spoken or understood, the 400 merchant stalls here are still a good place to pick up fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as peruse clothing and other random goods you might be wiser not to take home.QC‑6, Rynek Jeżycki, www.targowiska. com.pl. Open 06:00-20:00; closed Sun. WIELKOPOLSKA MARKET (TARGOWISKO WIELKOPOLSKIE) With Poznań’s historic main market square apparently not big enough, fruit and veg merchants have been relegated to this 1600 square metre plaza only a few minutes walk away. Renovated and generally more orderly than some of Poz’s other open-air markets, this is the best place for fresh produce in the Old Town. Among its 200 tent-covered stalls you’ll also find copious amounts of meat, cheese, nuts, and other food products, fresh-cut flowers, pots and pans, socks and sweatpants, sweets, screws, staplers, toilet scrubbers, and whatever else you can imagine.QH‑6, Pl. Wielkopolski, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open 06:00-20:00; closed Sun. 82

SHOPPING MALLS AVENIDA POZNAŃ Shopping ‘centres’ simply don’t get any more ‘central’ than this modern marvel located right next to Poznań’s impressive new train station (lovingly dubbed ‘the breadbox’); as such, it couldn’t possibly be better connected to public transport or easier to get to and from. Featuring over 200 retail spaces, including Media Markt, H&M, TK Maxx, Empik, and Peek & Cloppenburg, Avenida Pozań also offers plenty of cafes, restaurants, and fast food eateries, as well as a multi-level parking garage (parking up to 3h is free of charge). Opened in October 2013, if nothing else this mega-complex is worth checking out just to appreciate how much Poznań has developed and progressed over the last several years. QE‑9, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 61 627 01 90, www. avenidapoznan.com. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-20:00. FACTORY POZNAŃ This outlet centre, one of just a few establishments of this type in Europe, is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over other shopping malls. Recognisable names among the brands include Puma, Calzedonia, Desigual, Gino Rossi, 4F, Nike, Timberland, Guess, and more. To get here, take tram number 2 or 9 from ‘Pl. Wiosny Ludów’ (on ul. Strzelecka, H-8) to the terminus at ‘Dębiec’, then change to bus 610, getting off at ‘Luboń / Factory Outlet’ - or let jakdojade.pl figure out the optimal route for you.Qul. Dębiecka 1, Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 652 30 30, www.factory.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-20:00. GALERIA MALTA Located right next to Poznań’s Lake Malta, Galeria Malta is the largest retail and entertainment centre in western Poland with over 162,000 square metres of shopping and leisure opportunities. Opened in March 2009, Malta features a Multikino as well as an H&M, TK Maxx, Pepco, Pako Lorente, Guess, and Empik. Dining opportunities include Salad&Co and Costa Coffee. Trams 16, 17, and 18 all stop nearby (at either “Kórnicka” or “Baraniaka”).QN‑9, ul. Maltańska 1, tel. (+48) 61 658 10 22, www.galeriamalta. pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. POSNANIA Poznań’s new shopping behemoth swung its doors open in late 2016 in a style so lavish, even Eva Longoria couldn’t keep away (yes, it’s not everyday that random Polish shopping malls manage to invite A-list celebrities). Inspired perhaps by the celebrated Stary Browar shopping complex, which manages to seamlessly blend retail space with creative contemporary art, Posnania collaborated with Pop-up Galerie 208 to integrate unique sculptures and installations into its layout. The most eye-catching of those is David Mesguich’s Lucie, the sculpture of a little girl symbolising the future, located outside near the main entrance. Oh, and the shopping? They’ve got brands like Forever 21, Guess, MAC, Sephora, Steve Madden, Pinko, and many more.QM‑10, ul. Pleszewska 1, tel. (+48) 61 628 65 27, www.posnania.eu. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

Shopping

Health & Services 24-HOUR SHOPS LEWIATANQG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 28, www.lewiatan.pl. LOTOSQL‑7, ul. Jana Pawła II, tel. (+48) 519 07 56 26.

24-HOUR POST OFFICE POCZTA POLSKAQD‑9, ul. Głogowska 17, tel. (+48) 61 869 72 67, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24 hours.

COMPUTER REPAIR DOCTOR GADGET Computer, tablet, and smartphone repairs, chargers and powerbanks for sale.QF‑8, ul. Kościuszki 72/5B, tel. (+48) 690 98 30 33, www.doctorgadget.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. NN SERWIS Laptop and tablet repairs.QG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 28, tel. (+48) 602 39 67 16, www.nnserwis.pl. Open 08:00-18:00; Mon, Wed 08:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun.

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES AMERICAN CONSULATE IN POZNAŃ QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 851 85 16, www.pl.usembassy.gov.

EMERGENCY In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following: Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997. English, German and Russian speakers have separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: +48 608 599 999 (mobile) or +48 22 278 77 77 (landline). For urgent medical emergencies, use the listings below. The emergency room in PL is called SOR and should only be visited when absolutely necessary. In less urgent crises we recommend you visit a private clinic, where you’ll get better service and avoid the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals. HCP MEDICAL CENTRE (EMERGENCY ROOM) Poznań’s most central Emergency Room (SOR), located south of the train station in Wilda.Qul. 28 Czerwca 1956 r. 194 (Wilda), tel. (+48) 61 22 74 181, www. cmhcp.pl. JÓZEF STRUS MUNICIPAL HOSPITAL Qul. Szwajcarska 3 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 873 93 46, www.szpital-strusia.poznan.pl. 84

AUSTRIAN HONORARY CONSULATE IN POZNAŃ QF‑7, ul. Aleksandra Fredry 1/18, tel. (+48) 61 855 19 91, www.konsulataustrii.pl. RUSSIAN CONSULATE IN POZNAŃ Qul. Bukowska 53A, tel. (+48) 61 841 77 40, www. poznan.mid.ru.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE KANTOR GOLD QH‑8, Pl. Wiosny Ludów 2 (Kupiec Poznański), tel. (+48) 61 850 89 51, www.kantor-gold.pl. Open 09:00-20:15; Sat 10:00-20:15; Sun 11:00-18:15. KANTOR PRZEMEKS QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 859 64 66, www.kantorprzemeks.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. KANTOR PRZEMEKS QE‑9, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2 (Poznań City Center/ Main Train Station), tel. (+48) 667 31 31 31, www. kantorprzemeks.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-20:00.

/polandinyourpocket

Health & Services DENTISTS CHILLIDENT Root canaltreatment, microscopic endodontics, dental prosthetics, pedodontics, aesthetic dentistry, and other services. English spoken.QG‑7, Pl. Wolności 9/1, tel. (+48) 61 852 27 55, www.chillident. com. Open 09:00-20:00; closed Sat, Sun. DENTOPOLIS Dental surgeon with 30 years of experience. English and Spanish is spoken here.QA‑11, ul. Morawskiego 2D, tel. (+48) 503 19 03 37, www.dentopolis-poznan.pl. Open 10:00-20:00; Fri 10:00-15:00; closed Sat, Sun.

LAUNDRY PRALNIE SAMOOBSŁUGOWE Self-service laundromat. 16zł for one wash in a small machine (up to 6kg of clothing), 18zł for large (up to 8kg). Drying 5zł for 20 minutes.QG‑7, ul. Święty Marcin 39, tel. (+48) 604 91 65 94, www.pralnia.samoobslugowa.eu. Open 08:00-22:00.

PRIVATE CLINICS LUXMED A private medical centre just west of the Old Town.QE‑7, ul. Roosevelta 18, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88, www.luxmed. pl. Open 07:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-14:00; closed Sun.

RELOCATION COMPANIES LESS MESS STORAGE Self-storage is a relatively new concept in Poland, but this firm has figured out how to deliver a versatile and professional service. Whether you’re moving, doing a renovation to part of your home, or need to a place to store a private collection or business materials, you can use your space however you wish. Spaces range in size from 0.5 to 30 square metres and can be rented short or long-term. Each space is equipped with an alarm, and can be accessed 24-hours a day via a code that only you know. Qul. Ostrowska 515, tel. (+48) 61 639 78 98, www.lessmess. storage. Open 09:00-19:00; Sat 09:00-17:00; closed Sun.

SPA & BEAUTY THAI SMILE MASSAGE Anyone looking to escape the raucous buzz of Poz’s city centre could do a lot worse than relaxing with a fine massage. A peaceful, modern environment (with English speaking staff ) only five minutes from the market square, Thai Smile Massage is an ideal place to forget about the day’s woes while you let one of the authentic Thai massage therapists work their wonders. Two rooms to choose from (massage room and the oil room) and a cup of tea afterwards is enough for the IYP staff to give this place the thumbs up.QG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17/4, tel. (+48) 727 90 52 96, www.thai-smile.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. 85

Hotels

Sleep in Hostel & Apartments (p.88)

Visitors to Poznań will be pleasantly surprised to find that the city is home to some of the most impressive hotel properties in the country. While Poznań’s role as Poland’s epicentre for conferences and fairs has clearly benefited those who like plush accommodations and modern conveniences to come standard, on the flip side those major conferences can cause prices to shoot up when space is in demand (rates tend to double during the annual MTP, Polagra, Budma and Infosystem fairs). Fortunately most hotels compensate by offering impressive weekend discounts to encourage travellers to stick around and explore the city. With the increasing irrelevance of official rack rates these days due to these special offers, online booking discounts and other price variations, we no longer find it particularly instructive to list room prices in our guide, as we once did. On our website - iyp.me/poznan - you’ll find full reviews, photos and reader comments, on all of the hostels and hotels listed in our print guide, plus dozens of other accommodation options in the region; unfortunately, space constraints no longer allow us to print these reviews. Accommodation is categorised here subjectively based on a combination of lodging type, location, price and amenities. The venues listed here also serve as distribution points for our print guide, which can be picked up for free at the reception desks of the addresses listed. Sleep well. 86

CREAM OF THE CROP BLOW UP HALL 5050QG‑9, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 500 16 16 71, www.blowuphall5050.com. 22 rooms. PUoKHD hhhhh CITY PARK HOTEL & RESIDENCE QA‑9, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26A, tel. (+48) 61 221 84 00, www.cityparkhotel.pl. 88 rooms. PU6KHC DF hhhhh IBB ANDERSIA HOTELQG‑9, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. (+48) 61 667 80 00, www.andersiahotel.pl. 172 rooms. PU L6KHCDFw hhhh ILONNQul. Szarych Szeregów 16 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 668 75 75, www.ilonnhotel.pl. 77 rooms (1 apartment). UL6KHDF hhhh NH POZNAŃ QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 67, tel. (+48) 61 624 88 00, www. nh-hotels.com. 93 rooms. PUL6KHDFw hhhh SHERATON POZNAN HOTEL QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www. sheratonpoznan.pl. 180 rooms (13 apartments). PU L6KHCDF hhhhh

Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning H Conference facilities F Fitness centre

U Facilities for the disabled

K Restaurant

L Guarded parking on site

D Sauna

X Smoking rooms available

w Wellness

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

C‑1 Map Coordinate

UPMARKET BROVARIAQH‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74, tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. 21 rooms. PK hhh DON PRESTIGEQH‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 2, tel. (+48) 61 859 05 90, www.donprestige.com. 73 rooms. PL6HF HOTEL DESILVA PREMIUM POZNAŃ QG/H‑8, ul. Piekary 5, tel. (+48) 61 658 80 00, www. desilva.pl. 60 rooms. PULKHF hhhh HOTEL KOLEGIACKI QI‑7, Pl. Kolegiacki 5, tel. (+48) 61 855 05 05, www. hotelkolegiacki.pl. 24 rooms. PUKH hhhh HOTEL MODERNOQC‑12, ul. Kolejowa 29, tel. (+48) 61 664 66 66, www.hotelmoderno.pl. 88 rooms (1 apartment). PULKHDF hhhh HP PARKQP‑9, ul. Baraniaka 77, tel. (+48) 61 874 11 00, www.hotelepark.pl. 97 rooms (1 apartment). PU6KH hhh MAT’SQul. Bułgarska 115 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 868 78 31, www.hotelmats.pl. 35 rooms (2 apartments). U6KHD hhh MERCURE POZNAŃ CENTRUM QD‑7, ul. Roosevelta 20, tel. (+48) 61 855 80 00, www.mercure-poznan-centrum.com. 228 rooms (1 apartment). PUL6KHDFY hhhh NOVOTEL & IBIS POZNAŃ CENTRUMQG‑9, Pl. Andersa 1, tel. (+48) 61 858 70 00, www.accorhotels.com. 516 rooms (3 apartments). PUL6KHF hhhh NOVOTEL POZNAŃ MALTAQP‑7, ul. Termalna 5, tel. (+48) 61 654 31 00, www.accorhotels.com. 149 rooms. UL6KHCF hhh PLATINUM PALACE RESIDENCE Qul. Reymonta 19 (entrance from ul. Wyspiańskiego) (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 882 39 40, www. platinumpalace.pl. 39 rooms. P6KH hhhh ROYALQF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 71, tel. (+48) 61 858 23 00, www.hotel-royal.com.pl. 35 rooms. LH hhh 87

Hotels MID-RANGE

APARTMENTS

CAMPANILEQul. Św. Wawrzyńca 96, tel. (+48) 61 845 66 00, www.campanile.com. 80 rooms (4 apartments). PU6KH hh

APARTAMENTY VELVETQC‑9, ul. Śniadeckich 7, tel. (+48) 606 88 88 00, www.evelvet.pl. 24 apartments.

GARDEN BOUTIQUE RESIDENCE QI‑7, ul. Wroniecka 24, tel. (+48) 61 222 29 99, www. gardenhotel.pl. 14 rooms (1 apartment). PL hhh HL HOTEL LECHICKA Qul. Lechicka 101 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 821 07 00, www.hotel-lechicka.pl. 108 rooms (7 apartments). PL6KHCD hhh HOTEL KSIĘCIA JÓZEFAQul. Ostrowska 391/393 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 872 63 19, www.hotelkj.pl. 35 rooms (1 apartment). PKH hhh HOTEL POZNAŃSKIQul. Krańcowa 4, Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 649 99 88, www.hotelpoznanski.pl. 105 rooms. ULKH hhh HOTEL ŚRÓDKAQL‑6, ul. Śródka 6, tel. (+48) 61 222 00 07, www.hotel-srodka.pl. 25 rooms (7 apartments). ULH hhh IBISQJ‑9, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 23, tel. (+48) 61 858 44 00, www.accorhotels.com. 146 rooms. PUL6 KH hh

CLASSICO APARTMENTSQD‑6, ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. (+48) 728 41 48 27, www.classico-apartamenty. com. 28 apartments. T6KH PLATINUM PALACE APARTMENTSQG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 671 05 66, www. apartamenty.platinumpalace.pl. 27 apartments. 6 POMARAŃCZARNIAQH‑9, ul. Rybaki 12, tel. (+48) 515 37 73 20, www.apartamenty-pomaranczarnia.pl. 45 apartments. 6 SUPER-APARTAMENTY.PL QH‑6, ul. Wenecjańska 8, tel. +48 661 21 08 20, www. super-apartamenty.pl. APUL

HOSTELS EXPLORER HOSTELQI‑8, ul. Wszystkich Świętych 6, tel. (+48) 600 96 55 55, www.explorer-hostel.pl. 22 rooms (22 singles, 12 doubles, 6 triples, 3 quads). LK

REZYDENCJA SOLEI B&BQI‑7, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 510 11 01 30, www.hotel-solei.pl. 10 rooms (1 apartment). P

LA GUITARRAQG‑7, ul. Marcinkowskiego 20A, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 74, www.lagitarra.com. 22 rooms (8 singles, 6 doubles, 12 quads, 1 eight-person room, 66 dorm beds). L6

RZYMSKIQH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22, tel. (+48) 61 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski.pl. 87 rooms (5 apartments). UL6KH hhh

MELODYQH‑7, Stary Rynek 67 (entrance from ul. Kozia 16), tel. (+48) 61 851 60 60, www.melody-hostel. pl. 16 rooms (2 singles, 11 doubles, 1 quad, 48 dorm beds, 1 six-person room, 2 eight-person room).

STARE MIASTOQH‑8, ul. Rybaki 36, tel. (+48) 61 659 00 43, www.hotelstaremiasto.pl. 23 rooms (1 apartment). PLH hhh

POCO LOCO HOSTELQG‑8, ul. Taczaka 23, tel. (+48) 796 23 05 55, www.hostel.poco-loco.pl. 9 rooms (2 doubles, 3 quads, 50 dorm beds). 6W

BUDGET

ROSEMARY’S HOSTELQI‑7, ul. Wrocławska 13, tel. (+48) 61 855 27 61. 12 rooms (12 singles, 11 doubles, 1 triple, 1 quad).

GOLDQul. Bukowska 127A (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 842 07 74, www.goldhotel.pl. 12 rooms (1 apartment). 6H hh HOTEL RAMKAQul. Dąbrowskiego 474 (entrance from ul. Wejherowska 10, Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 849 94 99, www.hotelramka.pl. 28 rooms (3 apartments). PLKH hhh

OUT OF TOWN GREEN HOTELQul. Jeziorna 1A, Komorniki, tel. (+48) 61 810 80 75, www.greenhotel.pl. 44 rooms (4 apartments). PUL6KHD hhh 88

CAPITAL APARTMENTSQH‑8, ul. Piekary 16, tel. (+48) 61 852 53 00, www.capitalapart.pl. 30 apartments.

SLEEP IN HOSTEL & APARTMENTSQH‑7, Stary Rynek 77, tel. (+48) 61 639 40 04, www.sleepinhostel. pl. 26 rooms (7 apartments). 6 SODA HOSTEL & APARTMENTSQD‑6, ul. gen. Jana Henryka Dąbrowskiego 27A, tel. (+48) 793 27 27 20, www.sodahostel.com. 22 rooms (6 singles, 5 doubles, 3 quads, 8 suites, 52 dorm beds). P VERY BERRY HOSTELQH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 11/17, tel. (+48) 61 855 17 63, www.very-berry.pl. 24 rooms (6 singles, 10 doubles, 5 triples, 4 quads, 60 dorm beds). L6

Index If the venue you’re looking for isn’t listed, you’ll likely find it among the hundreds of places in Poznań listed on our website: poznan.inyourpocket.com 1956 Uprising Museum 48 Adrenaline Alpine Coaster 45 ALEkosmos 53 Antykwariat 79 Antykwariat Naukowy 80 Apartamenty Velvet 88 Applied Arts Museum 48 Archaeological Museum 48 Archdiocese Museum 40, 48 Arsenał City Gallery 28 Avenida Poznań 82 Bajgle Króla Jana 53 Bamber Monument 30 Bar a Boo 62 Bar Caritas 8 Bar Susznia 71 Basilium 71, 78 Bazar 1838 65 Bierhalle 59 Blow Up Hall 5050 59, 86 Blubry6D 47 Blue Note Jazz Club 72 British Military Cemetery 43 Brovaria 60, 71, 87 Budnicy Houses 28 Byczyn 69

Cafe La Ruina i Raj 58 Campanile 88 Capital Apartments 88 Casa de Vinos 73 Cepelia 80 Chłopskie Jadło 65 CHMIELNIK 72 Chocolate Museum 47, 48 Church of the Virgin Mary 40 City Event Poznań 25 City Fortifications 34 City Guide Poznań 25 City Information Centre 80 City Park Hotel & Residence 86 Classico Apartments 88 Coffee Miel 52 Concordia Taste 60 Cooliozum 72 Cuba Libre 77 Cuba Libre Social Club 77 Dąbrowskiego 42 60 Dark Restaurant 68 Don Prestige 87 Dram Explorers Bar 72 Explorer Hostel 88 FACTORY Poznań 82

Festive video mapping on the Old Town Hall (p.27).

Falla 69 Fat Bob Burger 60 FermentuJEMY 66 Figaro 63 Flavoria 60 Franciscan Church 36 Frey Wille 78 Galeria Malta 82 Galeria YES 79 Garden Boutique Residence 88 Genius Loci Archeological Park 40 Gold 88 Green Hotel 88 Guardhouse 30 Handmade 80 Happa To Mame 52 Hatti 59 Headless Figures 43 HL Hotel Lechicka 88 Hola Hola 72 Hotel DeSilva Premium Poznań 87 Hotel Kolegiacki 87 Hotel Księcia Józefa 88 Hotel Moderno 87 Hotel Poznański 88 Hotel Ramka 88 Hotel Śródka 88 HP Park 87 Hyćka 66

IBB Andersia Hotel 86 Ibis 88 Ilonn 86 Imperial Castle 37 Indian Steak 57 ISTNY wine tapas beer 72 Jeżyce Market 82 John of Nepomuk Monument 28 Just Friends Beer & Food 61 Kawiarnia Stragan 52 KulTour.pl 25 KURO by Panamo 63 Kwiat Peonii 59 Kyokai Sushi Bar 64 La Guitarra 88 Lars, Lars & Lars 68 Lavenda Gastro & Cafe 61 Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus 33 Lilou 79 Literary Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz 49 Malta Skating Rink 45 Malta Ski 45 Maltese Baths 45 Mat's 87 Melody 88 Mercure Poznań Centrum 87 Miejscówka 73 Minister CAFE 52

Index

Poznań getting in the holiday spirit at the annual Christmas Fair (p.11). Ministerstwo Browaru 73 Min's Table 58 Models of Poznań 49 Moliera 2 Bazar Poznański 80 Mollini 63 Monument to the Heroes of the Poznań Citadel 43 Mówish Mash 52 Municipal Scales Building 30 Museum of Armaments 43, 49 Naleśnikarnia Gramofon 60 National Museum 50 Na Winklu 66 New Synagogue 34 NH Poznań 86 Novotel & Ibis Poznań Centrum 87 Novotel Poznań Malta 87 Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem 66 Od:zysk 29 Okrąglak 37 Old Town Hall 27 Olivio 63 Oskoma 67 Pacha 77 Pączuś i Kawusia 53 Pamiątki z Poznania 80 PaniStek 57 PETIT PARIS Boulangerie 53 Pharmacy Museum 50 PHOBAR 58 Pies Andaluzyjski 72 Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 73 Piwna Stopa 73 Plac Wolności 36, 37 Platinum Palace Apartments 88 Platinum Palace Residence 87 Poco Loco Hostel 88

Pod Arkadami 8 Pomarańczarnia 88 Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre of Cathedral Island 38 Posnania 82 Poznań Army Museum 42, 50 Poznań Bamber Museum 50 Poznań Cathedral 39 Poznań Croissant Museum 46, 50 Poznań Kaiserpanorama 47 Poznań Nightingales Neon 36 Poznań Stadium 51 Pranger 27 PRL PUB 74 Projekt Kuchnia 61 Projekt LAB 77 Proletaryat 74 przyjemność 65 Przysmak 8 Ptasie Radio 53 PUB Strzelnica 74 Ramen-Ya 64 Ratuszova 67 Restauracja Bamberka 67 Restauracja Momo 68 Restauracja MUGA 61 Rezydencja Solei B&B 88 Rosemary's Hostel 88 Royal 87 Royal Castle 35 Różove 53 Rynek 67 Rzymski 88 Sheraton Poznan Hotel 86 Sleep In Hostel & Apartments 88 Soda Hostel & Apartments 88

SomePlace Else 57, 74 Soviet Cemetery 43 SPOT. 62 SQ 77 Stare Miasto 88 Stary Browar 35 SUPER-APARTAMENTY.PL 88 Świat Bursztynu 79 Thai Fast Wok 68 Thai Smile Massage 85 Thai Thai 69 The Bell of Peace and Friendship Among Nations 43 The New Zoo 47

The Old Zoo 47 The Time 62 Tourist Information Centre 25 Twelve Cocktails & Co. 76 U Aipo 65 Ułan Browar 76 ul. Żydowska 33 Uno 53 Very Berry Hostel 88 VisitPoznań 25 Weranda Lunch & Wine 62 Whiskey in the Jar 76 Whisky Bar 88 76 Wiejskie Jadło 68 Wielkopolska Market 82 Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum 51 Wielkopolska Military Museum 28 Wielkopolska Uprising Museum 30, 51 Wino na Kieliszki 73 Wiśniewski 76 W. Kruk 79 Wypas 69 Yetztu 64 Zindo Sushi Korean-Japanese Restaurant 64

FEATURES & CATEGORIES Alphas Breakfast Disco POLO! Emergency Enigma Hot Beer? Christmas in Poland Markets Mythological Fountains Neon Art Pączki Polish Food Polish Vodka Poznań Stadium Poznań Street Art Poznań Trade Fairs Śródka Sunday Shopping Ban

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LET’S MEET IN

BROVARIA The only place like it in Poznań

A business lunch, a family dinner, a date or a beer with friends... Original dishes from European cuisine and unique beer brewed in our own brewery help create a unique atmosphere for every occasion.

Stary Rynek 73-74, 61-772 Poznań, tel. +48 61 858 68 68, +48 61 858 68 78 • www.brovaria.pl

Poznan In Your Pocket - November 2019 - February 2020

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