Warsaw In Your Pocket - August - September 2018 by Poland In Your Pocket

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Warsaw No. 106, August – September 2018

Warsaw Street Art

p.8

Beksiński Exhibition

p.25

Singer Festival

p.20

Contents

Warsaw Feature Street Art

p.8

ROA Bears - ul. Nowy Świat 22 (Pawilony)

Arrival & Transport

Cafés

What's On 20

Restaurants

Sightseeing

Nightlife

Essential Warsaw Sightseeing Old Town The Royal Route Chopin Łazienki Wilanów Praga Jewish Warsaw Warsaw Uprising Communist Warsaw Walking Tour

27 28 34 38 42 44 47 50 53 58 60

Further Afield

64 66

Łódź

4 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Adult Entertainment

100 111

Leisure

112

Shopping

116

Directory

124

Hotels

126

Maps & Indexes Street Index Listings Index Features Index City Map City Centre Map

129 130 131 132 134 iyp.me/warsaw

Lilou Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang. Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand. Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls. Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry. WARSZAWA, 63 Mokotowska Street, 27 Francuska Street, GALERIA MOKOTÓW 12 Wołoska Street, SADYBA BEST MALL 31 Powsińska Street ARKADIA 82 Jana Pawła II Avenue

lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

Foreword Ahhh, sunny Warsaw! Welcome to the summer edition of Warsaw In Your Pocket! This is definitely our favourite time of year in the city, for it is now half the city’s population disappears and hangs around by the river, riding bikes, lounging around on the boulevard steps, in deck chairs in the many bars, beaches and other riverfront hangouts. It’s also a fantastic time to walk around the city, taking in the sights, and especially for you, we suggest seeing some of Warsaw’s fantastic street art - read more in our feature on p.8. There’s more to the city in summer than just the riverfront, as the city’s cafe culture, foodie scene and nightlife is in full swing, all listed in these very pages. Of particular note is the fantastic Night Market (p.79), where food and culture mix, and other outdoor seasonal places to enjoy (p.114)! This is the city that is vibrant in every sense of the word, offering you sightseeing in the bucketload, from fun-filled activities to some serious history lessons in the many museums, and the events calendar too is full to the brim (check out our ‘Whats On’ section, p.20). As always, let us know how you got on in Warsaw on our Facebook page (/warsawinyourpocket) and/or show us what you’ve seen during your time in the city by using the hashtag #Warsawinyourpocket on social media, or if you prefer, just use good old fashioned email: poland@inyourpocket.com. Andrew Elliott has been living in Warsaw since 2016. With close ties to Poland, he finally decided to make the big leap from Scotland to get a more in-depth grasp of this fascinating country. Personal interests include astronomy, current affairs, food & drink, photography & videography! He even has a slight penchant for history.

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

years

MOBILE | ONLINE | PRINT

COVER STORY Street art is pretty big in Warsaw! ‘Eastern Warsaw’ by Spaniard Sebas Velasco is found in the mecca for street art in Warsaw – the Praga district (p.50). It depicts nightlife, a portal into another world, around cult venue Hydrozagadka (P.102). Photo: Andrew Elliott

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 25,000 copies published every 2 months Sales Consultant: Jarek Śliwiński (+48) 606 749 643 Events & Marketing: Martyna Karaś (+48) 882 079 723 Writer & Editor: Andrew Elliott Events Editor: Jason Neale Research: Gabriela Mańkut, Monika Jakubek, Aleksandra Mańkut; Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

This guide's full of our opinions.

Now we'd like to hear yours.

Please complete our Readers' Survey at iyp.me/readershipsurvey. And share your comments via our website or app. 6 Warsaw In Your Pocket

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Connor Harrington, Fight Club - ul. Środkowa 17 (Praga)

Street Art It’s nice to casually walk around the streets of Warsaw on a summer’s day, enjoying the sun and the general good vibes. You get to see more of a city this way, sometimes finding unexpected delights on your way - like street art! We at IYP love street art murals and the city is full of them. We want you to enjoy some of these wonderful pieces too. Read on to find out more about this fascinating topic and find out where our favourite murals can be found... 8 Warsaw In Your Pocket

iyp.me/warsaw

Street Art There’s always been that special something which has drawn people to Warsaw. For most, its the draw of the city’s long history spanning a thousand years; for others, its the lure of a city mixed with modernity and an optimistic eye on the future. Whatever the reason, Warsaw is a city which has been long on the rise and it’s plain to see for all who visit. Fast-paced change has been the goal of the city authorities in the last few decades, but in a broader historical context, this is something which has been ongoing since the postwar years. The change is evident, with new buildings everywhere, and there’s a lot to see and do, however, the city has also some fantastic cool credentials - not through pomp and throwing money around, but earned through ‘roll up your sleeves’ cutting edge art... Oh? Oh, yes! In this very guide, we’ve praised the virtues of the host of modernised sightseeing venues which are readily available, and the revitalised leisure spots such as the Vistulan Boulevards and artsy locations like The museum on the Vistula, but there’s an altogether different aspect to the city’s cool credentials, which can often be overlooked, but in equal measure brings people to this city, the aim to explore, to stare up at buildings – we are, of course, referring to the city’s big collection of street murals! Huh? Yup, the city is littered with them. Indeed, Poland has long embraced the fact that large scale artwork and design motifs can be a fascinating and creative option for advertising or, more recently, as an outlet for the artistic visions of local and international street artists. During the communist era huge advertisements were often painted onto the gable ends of buildings and factories. With the current fashion for all things retro and the undeniable coolness of Polish design from the 1960s-80s those murals which have survived till today are seen as a window into life in the Poland of old. A fine example, advertising the Toto lottery, can be seen on a vast wall along ul. Widok in the city centre; its current shabby state only adds to its sense of history and charm. With Communism in Poland long consigned to the dustbin of history, who do we have to thank for the street art and mural trend of the last decade? This is a joint accolade between Warsaw and Poland’s street artists, and the organisation Fundacja Do Dzieła (Let’s Do It!), organisers of Warsaw’s Street Art Doping Festival. Created in 2009, Fundacja Do Dzieła took its tentative first steps, which immediately led to Warsaw’s very first street art festival in the same year. In such a short time, a whole host of international artists from Italy’s BLU, Loesje of the Netherlands, Belgium’s ROA, China’s DALeast, to national artists such as Raspazjan, Mona Tusz, and of course, Varsovians NeSpoon, SC Szyman and Simpson have all added their creativity on many of Warsaw’s buildings, walls and pillar boxes, rivalling what other cities like Berlin have to offer. As fun as street art is, what have the artists, and Fundacja Do Dzieła accomplished? First off, you simply need to visit all the street art sights to see the full extent of the work – the answer is plainly painted on the walls! iyp.me/polandblog

DALeast Mural - ul. Bliska 23 (Praga)

For as much as the city has regenerated itself through infrastructure projects, and fresh licks of paint here and there, it’s the other type of paint, often the one from cans, which can be overlooked. The cultural diversity displayed on the streets of Warsaw is vast and shows how a city can change its fortunes in such a short time to become one of positive change. Plus, a lot of these pieces are simply nice to look at - they’re pleasing. While Fundacja Do Dzieła has been a celebrated success, in other cities, such as Berlin, there is an ongoing debate about whether street art has been appropriated by authorities, another form of gentrification that counters the original intentions of the artists and purposes of the murals. Warsaw has employed the talents of street artists to create public art in the service of the re-invigoration of the city, and nowhere is this more evident than in the Praga District. Although it can be argued gentrification is sinking its claws into the area, there is an element of success with street art, as two important factors act as a drive – to respect the work of the artist while adding value to a neighbourhood and the community of people that live there. And, of course, the work being available for all to see for free. Stick to these principles and the beast of gentrification may be kept at

NeSpoon Lace - ul. Grójecka 93 (Ochota)

August – September 2018

Street Art

Pixel Pancho, Mechanical Centaur - ul. Dolna 37 (Mokotów)

bay... although having a big stick may also help! At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have little trouble tracking it down in Warsaw, and we’re making it even easier. We fully encourage you, especially in these warm months, to see as much of the murals, and street art installations, as you can. It’s a pleasant adventure in itself as you inevitably get to see the city for yourself, including parts you would not otherwise have considered going. In addition to cataloguing and GPSing street art addresses throughout the city in our online street art section, we’ve also marked each location with a spray can symbol on the maps in the back of our guide, so you can literally use them to give yourself a tour of Warsaw’s urban art. As for online, we’ve even listed all pieces of street art, old and new, to keep you informed if they still exist or not, to save you time from visiting a site, only to discover that once fantastic mural has been painted over, or worse, the building it was on is gone (if you find that piece has been painted over since we’ve last been, please, do let us know)!

murals. If you have even less time to venture to Praga, then not a problem, for even in the city centre you can still see quite a few pieces of street art before leaving Warsaw. In the aforementioned ul. Widok we already mentioned some communist-era advertising, however, just across from it you’ll also see a mural depicting a statuesque woman. Continuing onward to ul. Bracka 20, in the courtyard gate, you’ll see a storyboard mural from Polish artist Majgat, depicting a fantasy world called Republic ¥. Exiting the courtyard, turn right, and continue a short distance to ul. Szpitalna 6, enter the courtyard to see a Multi-eyed Tree (yup!) by Otecki and Hemoroid (again, yup!). You are also bound to stumble across some rather fine and less ‘in your face’ little creative acts, and although they are not marked on our maps, they are everywhere and usually last a few months! We particularly like the painted and stencilled gas and electricity boxes which are dotted around town - keep your eyes open for the projects of sweetly subversive local heroine NeSpoon; her stencil series - based on motifs of traditional Polish lace designs - is often seen in the unlikeliest of places. SC Szyman’s poster designs, often showing weapons like AK47s and grenades, are often found around the city, lasting as long as the elements will allow them! If you have more time, then visiting Fort Bema is highly recommended. Found in Warsaw’s north-western district of Bemowo, this complex of now abandoned Tsarist era fort buildings within a park has become somewhat of a mini-Mecca of street art in Warsaw, not often visited by tourists! Treat it as a walkthrough gallery. To get there from the main Dworzec Centralny train station (bus stop in front of the Palace of Culture and Science - the big pointy building!), take bus 109 and switch at Monte Cassino bus stop to bus 197, which will take you straight there.

Although street art can be found throughout the city, if you’re limited on time, your best bet is to head on over to the city’s Praga district (p.50) on the east side of the river. Examples of some fantastic murals can be seen at ul. Racławicka 17, ul. Rakowiecka 2C and ul. Bliska 23 (in Praga Południe) respectively, also, if you stick to the length of ul. Stalowa, to your left and right, you’ll frequently see SC Szyman Poster

Praga Bag - ul. Inżynierska 3

10 Warsaw In Your Pocket

As with all outdoor street art, it’s best to be quick when going to see some murals, for one of our favourite murals of a Castle in the Sky, once located on ul. Mińska 12 (Praga Południe) is no more - gone with the building it was painted on! And so it comes to pass, murals are often painted on derelict buildings, or buildings marked for demolition to make way for some fancy development (stay back, gentrification, stay back!), so it’s quite hard to tell how long the artwork will last. But fear not, for more murals pop up in the city than are lost to us. They can’t destroy them all! iyp.me/warsaw

Launched back in 2009 with the aim of bringing the rich flavours of the far east to Poland. Buddhaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s refined menu, stylish interior, friendly service and elegant atmosphere have earned it a reputation as one of Warsawâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top restaurants. Buddha restaurant is ideal for a family meal, romantic dinner or a business meeting. The restaurant is easy to get to, located on Nowy swiat 23, part of the historical Royal Route leading to the Old Town.

Buddha Indian Restaurant Buddha Indian ul. Nowy swiat 23,Restaurant tel. 22 826 35 01 ul. Nowy swiat 23, tel. 22 826 35 01 www.buddha.info.pl www.buddha.info.pl

Arrival & Transport

By train, plane, bus or car, it’s easy travelling to and from Warsaw.

BY TRAIN Warsaw’s main train station, Centralna, is a hulking metal giant that sits conveniently in the city’s centre and is the main hub for trains arriving in the capital. Additionally, passengers may disembark at the smaller Warszawa Wschodnia (Warsaw East station) between Praga Północ and Praga Południe districts, and Warszawa Zachodnia (Warsaw West station) on the border of Ochota and Wola districts. WARSZAWA CENTRALNA TRAIN STATION Warsaw Central Station (Warszawa Centralna) is exactly what it says on the tin: central. And thanks to recent renovations, we’re happy to say it’s now easier to navigate. Once you alight from your train, take one of the two facing escalators in the centre of the platform, which lead you up into one of the underground passages that flank the main hall. Whichever side you come up on you will be one level below ground level and the ticket hall. Kantors can be found in the underground passageway between Centralna and the Marriott. Signs for ATMs (bankomats) are everywhere, and the machines can be spotted at almost every turn. Tourist info can be found across the street at the Palace of Culture - just look for the ‘i’ sign (open daily May-Sep 08:00-19:00 and Oct-Apr 08:00-18:00). Tickets for the public transport system can be bought from most newspaper kiosks. Left luggage is located in the underground corridor that runs below the main hall. Look for Przechowalnia Bagażu, where stewards will look after your bag, or opt for one of the plentiful lockers. Connect to a Polish network via mobile by getting SIM and pre-paid cards from the same newsagents (you now need to register any new SIM card so expect a bit of a wait). 12 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Both entrances of the main hall are covered by taxi ranks, and by passing via tunnels under the main road you’ll find bus and tram stops though once you enter, the signs are more of a hindrance than a help and you may never be seen or heard of again. Officially sanctioned SAWA taxis and ELE taxis can be called to pick you up. On the ground level there is a travel office run by Polish rail on the Złote Tarasy side of the building to the right of the stairs heading down to the platforms under the Centrum Obsługi Klienta sign (info line 197 57, www.intercity.pl). Open from 09:10 - 20:30, the multi-lingual staff (they can even assist the deaf ) can search for the cheapest/easiest connection, sell you international and domestic tickets, and can help plan your trip for you. There is a new info point called InfoDworzec open 07:00 - 21:00 which offers more general tourist info. The selection of outlets selling food and drink at Centralna has improved dramatically. There are all kinds of local and international coffee joints, fast food chains and kebab shops to grab a quick bite or pass some time.QE‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 54, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones). Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made between 24:00 - 01:00. WARSZAWA WSCHODNIA TRAIN STATION QL‑3, ul. Kijowska 20, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones). Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made between 24:00 - 01:00. WARSZAWA ZACHODNIA TRAIN STATION QAl. Jerozolimskie 142, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones). Open 24hrs. iyp.me/warsaw

Arrival & Transport BY PLANE WARSAW CHOPIN AIRPORT Warsaw Chopin Airport has recently seen the opening of Zone CDE, a glass and steel giant that sits rather awkwardly next to the newly renovated Zone AB. Both Zones AB and CDE have a wealth of shops, restaurants, tourist and public transport (ZTM) info, ATM machines, fast food (McDonald’s!), car rental offices, exchange offices etc. and they are collectively called Terminal A. A new viewing platform has recently opened and is free from 06:00 - 22:00 and located near the entrance to the train platform. There is also a Kiss and Fly parking zone where you can drop passengers off for free up to 7 minutes (careful because for 15 mins it’s 30zł). Other stops cost 5zł p/7 mins. The taxi rank outside exits 1 and 2 offers four certified companies: iTaxi, MPT, Sawa and Ele Taxi. The 15-30 minute ride to the centre costs around 35-50zł, though be on guard for unlicensed sharks who will try to charge three or four times that. After hearing several complaints, we suggest agreeing on the price with your driver before setting off. Cheapskates can catch the brand new train into the city or get bus number 175.

AIRPORT TRANSFERS

The train station can be found underground by turning right outside of whichever arrivals area you leave from and going all the way to the end of the covered section where you will find escalators taking you down to ticket booths. The SKM trains run several times an hour and are red and white in colour. Line S2 takes you to Śródmieście station in the city centre and runs twice an hour, while line S3 takes you to Warszawa Centralna station and runs once an hour. To take one of these trains you need a normal public transport ticket (exactly the same as what you’d use for the bus) that are available from the ticket booths and cost 4.40zł. The KM trains run once per hour, are green and white, and will take you to Centralna. They have their own ticket office at the station with a fixed price of 6.80zł, but you can use an SKM ticket here as long as you have the train driver validate it. They also have a new ticket available which covers your transfer from Chopin to Modlin Airport and also gives you 75 minutes travel in the first zone of ZTM (19zł). The train ride to the centre should take around 20 minutes. Bus stops can be found in front of arrivals at Zone AB and Zone CDE. Buses run frequently between 04:28 and 22:58 with journey time taking approximately 25 minutes. At night when the 175 stops running travellers can take the N32 night bus, which runs every 30 minutes.Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. (+48) 22 650 42 20, www.lotnisko-chopina.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

AB EVEREST Relieve the strain of standing around looking lost and bewildered at Modlin by booking the ‘door-to-door’ services of AB Everest. Fill out the English reservation form on their website (total prices are confirmed during the booking process) and an English speaking driver will be waiting to whisk you straight to your destination. Prices start at 25zł per person but the price gets cheaper the more passengers there are travelling to the same address. Check their website for details. They also offer one day tours from Warsaw to popular destinations across Poland, which include: Auschwitz and Kraków, Wieliczka Salt Mine, Białowieża National Park, Toruń and Warsaw Outskirts Tour, to name a few.Qul. Obrońców Tobruku 18, tel. (+48) 722 26 17 31, www.abeverest.pl. MODLIN BUS Modlin Bus offers transfers from Modlin Airport to the centre of Warsaw, with drop-offs in front of the Palace of Culture (E-8 - in front of ‘Kinoteka’ on Al. Jerozolimskie) and Chopin Airport, as well as onward travel to Łodź. Tickets start at 9zł if you book ahead online; at their wellmarked desk near the airport’s exit you’ll pay 23-35zł for travel to Warsaw (depending where you intend to get off ) and 25-45zł to Łódź. All buses are equipped with wi-fi.Qtel. (+48) 703 40 39 93, www.modlinbus.com. August – September 2018 13

Arrival & Transport WARSAW-MODLIN AIRPORT Modlin Airport looks like a shiny overturned tin can nestled in a forest in the middle of nowhere. This is one of the biggest cheap airline hubs in Poland and RyanAir currently operates 54 connections across Europe here.

machines. Most major hotels will offer some form of offroad guarded parking. Be warned that Polish roads and Polish drivers are not the best especially if you have driven in western Europe. Indeed, Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, drivers who have no consideration for anybody else result in the common sight of mangled car wrecks around the country. Police seem unwilling to control irresponsible driving, and don’t be surprised to see cars shooting through red lights, cutting each other up and staking a claim for the Formula 1 championship.

The interior is modern and well-equipped to handle international travellers. Inside the arrival/departure halls you’ll find all the services you could need, from ATMs (bankomat), info desk, free wifi, two currency exchange points (kantor), vending machines, shops, two playgrounds, a few restaurants and nine car rental companies. Those looking to end up in Warsaw’s city centre have three main options for transport: grab a cab or private shuttle, take a bus to the capital, or board one of the green and yellow shuttles that will take you to Modlin Train Station where you then take a train to your destination. The Koleje Mazowieckie train route is economical (19zł total for shuttle and train), though slightly time consuming (50 minutes total); buy a ticket from one of their stands located in the baggage hall or at Arrivals near the exit doors. Of the many bus transfer services (a full range of which you’ll find on our website), Modlin Bus is the most comfortable and convenient; tickets range from 9zł (if booked ahead at modlinbus.com) to 35zł (at the airport - look for their stand in the baggage hall or near the Arrivals terminal exit). If money isn’t an option, the airport’s official taxi partners Sawa Taxi and Taxi Modlin offer transport to the city centre from 159zł (199zł between 22:00 and 06:00).Qul. Gen. Wiktora Thommée 1A, Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki, tel. (+48) 22 315 18 80, www.modlinairport.pl.

The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. Seat belts must be worn at all times and it is illegal for drivers to use hand-held mobile phones. Following the letter of the law all cars should be equipped with a first aid kit, warning triangle, fire extinguisher, rear mud flaps and right and left hand outside mirrors. Flouting the rules will cost you 200zł (for using a mobile), 100zł (not wearing a seat belt) and up to 1520zł for speeding! The legal limit for drink driving is 0.2‰ blood/alcohol level. Put simply, if you’re driving, don’t drink. EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as they are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licenses invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone we know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry your license and passport at all times when driving. Since April 2007 it has been compulsory for headlights to be switched on at all times. GUARDED PARKING Guarded Parking actually means supervised CCTV, all for the pretty price of 8zł p/hour.QF‑6, ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria Hotel), MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

BY CAR Warsaw is located in the heart of the country and has extensive road links with other major Polish cities. Having said that the competition on the road’s front isn’t fierce. Roads leading into Warsaw tend to be of decent dual carriageway standard, though once you enter the city limits Warsaw traffic can become a serious problem - particularly during the week. Most major hotels are located in the central area and you should be heading in most cases for the Central Train Station (Dworzec Warszawa Centralna) and its neighbour, the Palace of Culture (PKiN). Parking in the central area is generally available on-street where there are standard parking charges payable at roadside 14 Warsaw In Your Pocket

The Polish Fiat, or ‘Maluch’ - produced in PL from 1972-2000; considered a family car during the communist era.

iyp.me/warsaw

Arrival & Transport CAR RENTAL All most travellers need to rent a car in PL is 18 years of age, a credit card (not debit), and a valid foreign driver’s licence. Be aware, however, that those from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic (tsk, tsk, United States, China, Australia...) cannot legally drive on their home licences; technically an International Driver’s License is required in those cases. Though some rental companies (the dodgier ones) will still rent you a car, be aware that you are assuming full liability for any damages if you get behind the wheel; you also run the risk of getting a citation from the police for driving without a valid license. If you’re looking to leave the country, be aware that you can’t cross the Polish borders into Ukraine, Belarus or Lithuania in a rental car. AVIS BUDGET Also at Modlin Airport (ul. Gen. Wiktora Thommee 1A), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (E-9, Marriott Hotel) and ul. Łopuszańska 12A (Włochy).Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 48 72, www.avis.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:30, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. EUROPCAR Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 25 64, www.europcar.pl. HERTZ Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 28 96, www.hertz.com.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:00. SCOOTER RENTAL Warsaw’s newest Scooter Rental offers a large selection of sporty and stylish rides for beginners and experts. Their expert staff will help you pick out the right ride. Best to book in advance and secure a pickup time as they might be out of the office in the off season (call the listed number if that’s the case).QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 22, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 99 77 60, www.skutery-centrum.pl. Open 07:30 - 19:30. SIXT One of the world’s largest and oldest car rental companies offers a choice of solutions from short and long rental periods to holiday cars. There’s even a fleet of limousines if you’re interested. Vehicles range from Seats to luxury Mercedes. Bonuses include GPS and Sixt cards. Also at Modlin Airport, ul. Emilii Plater 49 (E-8, InterContinental Hotel) and Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (E-9, Marriot Hotel).Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 20 31, www. sixt.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:30, Sat 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. YOURRENT / FLEETSOLUTIONS Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 668 66 33 00, www.biznes.fleet-solutions.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00. iyp.me/polandblog

RIDING THE POLISH RAILS The Polish rail network has steadily improved over the last decade with new stations in most of the country’s major cities, new rolling stock, and high-speed lines now available. The high-speed Pendolino route between Kraków and Gdańsk (via Warsaw), christened in 2014, has cut travel times between north and south from 12 to only 5.5 hours. Though the costs have increased, by western standards Polish rail travel is still very affordable, with a 1st class ticket from Warsaw to Kraków costing 80-240zł (about €35), depending on time of travel. Travel times can vary widely depending on the type of train making the journey. Generally the longer a train takes, the older the rolling stock, the less amenities it will have and the less comfortable you’ll be. The shorter the journey, the nicer the train (and higher the price). The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run so many different classifications of train that it makes the head spin, but here’s a quick run-down. Express InterCity Premium (EIP): the fastest and most comfortable trains on offer (Pendolino), includes electrical sockets, limited wi-fi, adjustable seats and a restaurant carriage serving food and refreshments. Express InterCity (EIC): comfortable first and second class compartments, which include electrical sockets and limited wi-fi service. InterCity (IC) trains are modern, comfortable and relatively cheap and will get you to wherever you need to go. EuroCity/EuroNight (EC/EN) are the perfect choice for rail trips around Europe. EuroCity trains are quick connections to major European cities, and EuroNight are fast international night trains. Twoje Linie Kolejowe (TLK), are much cheaper and older trains with mostly second class compartments, requiring no prior reservation - just board and find yourself a seat. You may find yourself on a TLK route if you’re travelling to a small town. Our advice is not to show up early, as these routes are often overcrowded and you may be forced to sit or stand in the aisle. For more information on train times and prices check the official website of Polish Railways - www.rozklad. pkp.pl, or try the very useful route planning site e-podroznik.pl. On the former you can book a ticket without the hassle of queuing at the station. If you find yourself faced with long queues in the train station then you’ll be pleased to hear you can hop on most trains (except EIP trains!) and buy a ticket direct from the conductor. You’ll pay a 10zł surcharge for this, but credit cards are now accepted. August – September 2018 15

Arrival & Transport METRO-MORPHOSIS

BY BUS If you come to Warsaw by bus, odds are you’ll be landing at the main bus station on Al. Jerozolimskie, while budget options like Flixbus drop passengers off a short distance from Metro Młociny.

Tentative construction of a Warsaw metro system first began in 1938 and was spearheaded by the forward thinking mayor Stefan Starzyński. The first line finally opened for business a whopping sixty years later in 1995! To be fair, engineers and designers had a lot to deal with in the interim, namely the ravages of the second world war and the perils and trials of communism. Plans for an underground system had originally been discussed as early as 1918, but the depression saw all preparations shelved. Starzyński was the first to raise the metro from the dead, and work on both the North-South and EastWest lines began in 1938. Originally projected to open in the mid-1940s, the outbreak of WWII put an end to those ambitions. Peace time and then communism brought a change in priorities. City planners were called to create a superdeep underground system, primarily to allow for Soviet swift troop movements below the city. By 1953 over 700 metres of tunnels had been carved underground but the death of Comrade Stalin saw all works abandoned. Finally, in 1995, a North-South line consisting of 11 stations and rolling stock donated by Russia was opened. The second line finally opened in March 2015 to much fanfare. Although it is currently comprised of only 7 stations, it connects the radically different Eastern and Western sides of the city that the Vistula and history have divided. For commuters and every-day varsovians the second line changes their daily routine and offers much faster and more convenient connections. For tourists, it will act as a main artery as many of the city’s most interesting attractions and museums are adjacent to each sparkling new station. The city made a lot of bold decisions with respect to the overall architectural planning as well as the look, lighting design and colors of each new station. Polish Artist Wojciech Fangor was tapped to design the artwork, color scheme and characteristic fonts used in each station and the effects are truly stunning. Today the first line of the metro now currently spans 21 stops across the North-South axis of the capital and it intersects the brand new second line at the pivotal (and somewhat poetic) Świętokrzyska (Sacred Cross) station. There are already plans in place to expand the second line further East and West respectively and even talk of a third line in the future. For now, we suggest punching your ticket, clutching your camera and exploring the brilliant modernist underworld that is Warsaw’s second Metro line. 16 Warsaw In Your Pocket

FLIXBUS Services leave from the bus stances at either Metro Młociny, Metro Wilanowska, in front of the Palace of Culture & Science, and from Warsaw West Train/Bus Station, depending on where you’re travelling.Qul. Kasprowicza 145 (Dworzec Autobusowy Metro Młociny, stance 1), www.flixbus.pl. MAIN BUS STATION Coaches arrive and depart – unless otherwise stated – from the Warsaw West Bus Station (Dworzec Autobusowy Warszawa Zachodnia). Find a currency exchange and two ATM (bankomat) machines located in the main hall. There is no Tourist Info point, for the closest you’ll have to make the journey into the Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emillii Plater). There’s a legitimate left-luggage operation, a travel agency and a nursing mother’s lounge. You’ll also be able to buy SIM cards (for which you’ll need to register your details with ID), prepaid cards and transport cards from here. Taxis to the centre run between 20-30zl (refuse a lift from any of the smiling unlicensed operators who offer you a lift). The bus running to the centre is found right across a busy highway and getting there is an adventure in itself seeing there are no signposts in the subway leading there. Basically from the main hall duck down under the sign saying Dworzec PKP, head down the stairs, turn right, follow the corridor to its conclusion, turn right again – you’ll see two stairwells leading to the surface. Take the left one and presto, there’s your bus stop. Confused? Not half as much as we were. Good work Warsaw. To get to Central Station take bus number 127,158 or 517. At night you’ll be needing N35 or N85. The journey takes approximately 15 minutes so buy a 3,40zł ticket valid for 20 minutes. Remember to validate your ticket on boarding.QAl. Jerozolimskie 144, tel. (+48) 703 40 34 03, www.dworzeconline.pl. Ticket office open 05:30 - 22:00. U

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system crisscrossing the city as well as a good metro system running from north to south and a second line that opened in March 2015 running east to west. Over 1,500 buses operate in and around the city, and most run from between 05:00 and 23:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N, followed by a two digit number. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops. Tickets (all valid for use on metro, bus and tram) can be bought from a series of ticket machines with instructions in English dotted around the city, at all metro stations, and iyp.me/warsaw

Arrival & Transport some bus and tram stops, with English translations printed on tickets. Tickets can also be purchased from machines on buses and trams, where you can pay by card, or using exact change only. Alternatively, kiosks also sell tickets. A standard public transport single ticket costs 4.40zł. If you’re travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll be needing a ticket that covers both zones 1 and 2 – these are priced at 7zł. Note that the airport is in Zone 1. Still with us? Good. There is also a 20 minute ticket priced at 3.40zł. Tickets valid for 24 hrs are priced at 15 or 26zł if travelling through both zones. They have also introduced a new weekend ticket (available from 19:00 on Friday till 08:00 on Monday) which costs 24 zł (also a weekend group ticket is available for up to 5 people and costs 40 zł). A 3-day ticket costs 36zł for zone 1 only and 57zł for zones 1 &2. Those over 70 ride for free, as do children up until the end of September of the year they turn 7. (Really. Probably makes sense with vodka. Have proof of age ID handy in both cases.) Everyone else pays full fare unless in possession of an ISIC card (in which case you must be 26 and under). This entitles you to buy a reduced ticket (ulgowy) which costs approximately 50% of the full fare. You can buy single tickets from machines on most trams and busses or from the driver, though you must have exact change. Once you’ve got a ticket you will need to validate it in one of the box-style kasowniks, thus activating the magnetic strip on the back. On the metro this must be done before you get on board. It is no longer necessary to buy an extra ticket for animals or large pieces of luggage. Plain clothes ticket inspectors regularly stalk the lines, dishing out 270.40zł (266zł plus a normal ticket price of 4.40zł) for those without valid tickets (we understand quick payment results in the fine being lessened). They often don’t look very official and you are within your rights to request identification, or even do as the locals do, and attempt to bargain them down.Qwww.ztm.waw.pl.

TAXIS The days when cash bells would ring whenever a cab driver would hear a foreign accent might have passed, but it’s still always better to ring ahead rather than just hailing a taxi in the street. In particular be vigilant when taking a cab to the centre from the arrivals hall of the airport; we’ve heard plenty of horror stories. The accepted fare from Warsaw Chopin Airport to the centre is 35-50zł; we suggest that you agree upon this price with your driver before setting off in order to ensure avoiding any shenanigans. All the companies we list will usually have someone on their switchboard who can speak English. MPT, the staterun firm, can boast the most reliable reputation, but you won’t find many cheaper than Super Taxi. Find ELE taxis on the Marriott tower side of the central station; it’s the second row of cars. Tipping is not expected, but if your driver gets you from A to B without a detour through the countryside then by all means, feel free. ELE TAXIQtel. (+48) 22 811 11 11, www.eletaxi.pl. MPTQtel. (+48) 22 191 91, www.taximpt.pl. SUPER TAXIQtel. (+48) 22 196 22, www.supertaxi.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

USEFUL TRANSPORT APPS JAKDOJADE Despite Warsaw’s metro, tram and bus network being incredibly easy to use, even for foreigners, we’ll still admit to being a bit put off from using it at first; that is until we discovered the veritable skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the Warszawa.jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app for your smartphone. The former is a wonderful and free tool for advance planning, but the paid app is more practical for figuring out how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town and away from your computer. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically) and destination, or pin the locations on a map; select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. Finished at the museum and want to head back to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop and even tell you which ticket to buy. That’s worth the few Euros it costs to download in our opinion. For those who prefer to feel smarter than their phones, you can also find timetables and network maps at ztm.waw.pl. E-PODRÓŻNIK This site can also help you get from point A to point B within Warsaw, but is really invaluable when it comes to planning the journey to your next destination by bus or train. Use e-podroznik.pl to easily search bus and train connections and timetables, compare prices and even buy tickets in one of seven languages. There’s also a free mobile app (Android only). MYTAXI The world’s first and most popular taxi app is very much available in PL. MyTaxi allows you to compare rates, arrival times, car models, and more, sending the cab of your choice to your location (and allowing you to track its progress) without you having to talk to any dispatchers. Download it for free from their website: mytaxi.com. UBER Not only has Uber (uber.com) arrived in Poland, but the company recently opened their European hub in Kraków. If you’re already an Uber user, you’ll find that the alternative taxi service - whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash, no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage across Warsaw and all of Poland, however there are some drawbacks. Specifically, Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for slightly cheaper rates. August – September 2018 17

City Basics LANGUAGE SMARTS

MARKET VALUES

Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Though you can probably get by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will nonetheless smooth your time in Warsaw and may even win you friends and admirers.

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of July 24, 2018 based on €1 = 4.33zł

On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation

‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry

McDonald's Big Mac Snickers candy bar 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr beer (shop) 0.5ltr beer (bar) Loaf of white bread Pack of Marlboro cigarettes 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) Local transport ticket (1 journey)

10.10 zł 1.89 zł 24.00 zł 2.75 zł 9.00 zł 2.99 zł 16.00 zł 5.37 zł 4.40 zł

€ 2.33 € 0.44 € 5.54 € 0.64 € 2.08 € 0.69 € 3.70 € 1.24 € 1.02

FACTS & FIGURES TERRITORY Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).

Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobry

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri)

LONGEST RIVER Warsaw is split by the river Vistula (Wisła). At 1,047km it is Poland’s longest river and flows into the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska).

Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam

(Doh-bri vyeh-choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

HIGHEST POINT The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499 metres) found in the Tatra mountains in the south of Poland.

My name is... Mam na imię... I’m from England. Jestem z Anglii Do you speak English? Czy mówisz po angielsku? I don’t speak Polish. Nie mówię po polsku. I don’t understand. Nie rozumiem. Two beers, please. Dwa piwa proszę. Cheers! Na zdrowie! Where are the toilets? Gdzie są toalety? You are beautiful. Jesteś piękna. I love you. Kocham cię. Please take me home. Proszę zabierz mnie do domu. Call me! Zadzwoń do mnie!

18 Warsaw In Your Pocket

(Mam nah ee-myeh…) (Yehstem zanglee) (Che moo-veesh po an-gyelskoo?) (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.) (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.) (Dvah peevah prosheh.) (Nah zdrovyeh!) (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.) (Ko-hahm chuh.) (Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.) (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

POPULATION (2016) Poland - 38,483,957 Warsaw - 1,744,400 Kraków - 761,100 Łódź - 700,982 Wrocław - 635,800 Poznań - 542,300 Gdańsk - 462,249 Katowice - 301,834 LOCAL TIME Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 6:00 am in New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October. iyp.me/warsaw

What's On

Ciało/Umysł Festival | Photo by Stephan Floss

EVENTS BY DATE 26.05 - 25.08 » YOGA ON THE GRASS

Yoga is no longer unknown sorcery from the east. Professional athletes, titans of industry, politicians, men, women, and children have experienced the benefit of this practice. The summer months in Poland, with its warm summers and green spaces is a perfect place to take part in outdoor yoga. In the Viyasa method, the most important aspect is movement and breath. With a repertoire of various positions and relaxation with a Tibetan bowl and Koshi bell, don’t ignore this great opportunity for body and mind training.QKopa Cwila, Roman Kozłowski Park. Admission free. Every Saturday.

27.06 - 02.09 » SUMMER FILM CAPITAL

Part of a network of city-wide outdoor film screenings taking place all summer, Saski Palace will be the location of one of them every Wednesday. Over 200 films will be projected at 25 locations around the city.QAdmission Free. Every Wednesday.

27.05 - 26.08 » QUEENZ OF CHILL

The ZOO market is a nod to the famous Berlin swap markets selling all kinds of used, vintage, vinyl, and street food. Sundays at the market will include the Queenz of Chill series. The duet DJ act of Queenz of Steel will be providing the musical entertainment to chill out on your Sunday. QZOO Market, Al. Solidarności 55. Every Sunday. 20 Warsaw In Your Pocket

24.07 - 31.08 » CHOPIN SALON

Daily Chopin piano recitals by talented young musicians take place in the reception hall of the Chopin Boutique B&B, which the owners created in an old building dating from 1910, another great addition to Warsaw’s music scene. The concepts for both the hotel and the Chopin recitals are bourne of a passion for pre-war Varsovian style, and of course, of a love for all things Chopin. Once inside you can expect a glass of wine and some homemade cake.QH7, Chopin Boutique Bed & Breakfast, ul. Smolna 14/7. Tickets 50zł ( B&B clients 40zł), www.bbwarsaw.com.

25.08 - 02.09 » JEWISH CULTURE FESTIVAL: SINGER’S WARSAW

Although the name states this is a Jewish Culture Festival, the festival is a multicultural celebration showing how multiple influences can generate a creative spark and remind us we are a community of people striving for a common good. Taking place over 9 days, over 150 events, and 250 artists from Poland, Israel, the United States, Germany, France, Denmark, Belgium, Spain and Japan, that purpose holds true. Besides musical events, the Festival will host many other events. Theater performances of the Jewish Theater in Warsaw, the Nephesh and Yiddishpiel Theaters from Israel, book promotions, meetings with artists, film screenings, culinary workshops, workshops for children, and educational walks in the old Jewish areas of iyp.me/warsaw

What's On Warsaw. This year’s lineup include brothers Yaakov, Shulem Lemmer, Ara Malikian, Dominique Pifarely, RGG Trio, Gary Gutman, Włodzimierz Nahorny, Marcin Wyrostek, Adam Bałdych, Mateusz Smoczyński, Oles Brothers, Jazz Band Młynarski-Masecki, Jinta-La-Mvta, Maziduo, Woman in Black, amongst many others.QE‑7, The Jewish Theatre & Jidysz Cultural Centre, Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. (+48) 22 850 56 56, Tickets 25-100zł, www.festiwalsingera.pl.

09.09 09:00-16:00 » FOREST RUN WITH DOGS

Come with your dog or come in support of man’s best friend. The Forest Run is a charitable event to support the AST Foundation Animal Shelter and the Argos Foundation which provides sterilization services for dogs and cats. For the main events, there will be a 5k, 10k, and a walk. If you don’t have a dog, you can adopt one for the day or permanently. Your furry friends will be brought to the run by the Dog Hostel on Paluch.QWarszawa Międzylesie, ul. Mieczysława Pożaryskiego 2, www.biegpolesie.com. Admission 40zł.

13.09 - 16.09 » THE CIVILISATION OF ALGORITHMS

You can not predict the future, but it may be shaped. The participants of the Przemiany festival held by the Copernicus Science Centre have the opportunity to see that the power of creating the future is in the hands of every single one of us. This year’s edition will also showcase our increasing push to give machines and intelligent programming a larger role in our lives. What kind of civilization will this combination create? QI‑6, Copernicus Science Centre, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, Admission free., www. przemianyfestiwal.pl.

15.09 20:00-23:00 » JAZZANOVA (LIVE) - ‘THE POOL’

The German Dj/Producer collective from Berlin, Jazzanova, was founded in 1995. One of the first groups creating the style known as nu-jazz, they have also created tracks ranging from chillout to jazz house. The band also admits to being inspired by the Polish jazz school, which was confirmed by the release of the ‘Jazz from Poland 19631975’ album in 1999.QProgresja Music Zone, ul. Fort Wola 22 (Wola), Tickets 95zł.

21.09 20:00-23:00 » THE PINEAPPLE THIEF FEAT GAVIN HARRISON

Founded in 1999 by Bruce Soord, one of the most exciting bands of the progressive rock scene emerging from the UK will be making an appearance in Warsaw. The Pineapple Thief featuring Gavin Harrison will be touring and promoting their new album to be released this summer. The band also includes important contributions from Jon Sitch’s bass and Steve Kitch’s production and keyboards. The show will also be joined by LizZard as a special guest. QF‑12, Stodoła Club, ul. Batorego 10, tel. (+48) 22 825 60 31, Tickets 99zł. iyp.me/polandblog

August – September 2018 21

What's On 30.09 - 05.10 » CIAŁO/UMYSŁ FESTIVAL

Coming up in Sep/Oct, the 17th edition of the contemporary dance and performance Ciało/Umysł Festival (Body/Soul), which this year focuses mainly on the theme of Arabic culture. The festival organisers ask themselves, and you, direct questions, without repercussions, prepared answers and one time responses - they focus on stereotypes, which we ourselves hold. The performances dive into the rich culture of the Arabic world, and Europe, to compare traditions across cultures and how they fit into our modern ways of living. You will see many performances form international and Polish artists, discussion panels, meetings with artists from all taking in the festival.QF‑8, Teatr Studio, Plac Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. +48 22 656 69 41, www.2017.cialoumysl.pl/en. Ticket prices vary depending on the event.

19.10 20:00 » CONNER YOUNGBLOOD

Singer and songwriter who has delighted audiences in the United States and the World, will be making a stop in Poland this October. Coming from Dallas, Texas and a graduate of Yale University suggests an educated and thoughtful background. The musician also plays over thirty instruments: from guitar and synthesizers to the harp and clarinet, also displaying his musical pedigree. He has supported such stars as Janelle Monae, Aurora and Sohn while taking his inspiration from Beck, Bona Ivera and the Gorillaz.QG-9, BARdzo bardzo, ul. Nowogrodzka 11. Tickets 40-50zł.

28.10 19:00-21:00 » COHEN AND WOMEN

organizer

financing

co-organizer

Leonard Cohen the musician and poet/novelist was more popular in Poland than in his homeland back in the eighties, all thanks to Maciej Zembaty, who did a great job translating and popularising his songs. Cohen even met with Lech Wałęsa on his 1985 tour, and as a result, was banned from the state radio for many dreary months. Now 30 years later his music still lives on with the special concerts arranged by Leszek Biolik. Unforgettable hits like In My Secret Life, Suzanne, and Dance Me To The End Of Love will be performed with a new feminine dimension. Urszula Dusziak, Grażyna Łobaszewska, Natalia Kukulska, Anita Lipnicka, Julia Pietrucha, Matylda Damięcka, Barbara Wrońska, and Daria Zawiałow will perform on one stage to honour the man who inspired many generations of artists. QJ‑10, Torwar Hall, ul. Łazienkowska 6A, Tickets 89-249zł.

RECURRING EVENTS partners

media partners

22 Warsaw In Your Pocket

24.03 - 31.12 » CHOPIN POINT WARSAW

Everyday Chopin concerts in a unique place on the Chopin route (P.90) in the heart of Warsaw. Located in a historic building at ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 62, where the composer once played a concert at the age of 13. Extremely cozy atmosphere, inspired by the salons in which he gave recitals, promotes relaxation and expand knowledge about the composer. In addition to the iyp.me/warsaw

What's On music, performed by the outstanding pianists, guests are welcomed with a traditional Polish drink.QG‑5, Chopin Point Warsaw, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 62, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 601 80 83 92, Tickets 40-60zł available online or (+48) 601 33 34 33, www.chopinpoint.com.pl. 19:00.

13.05 - 30.09 » CHOPIN CONCERTS IN ROYAL ŁAZIENKI PARK

A statue to Poland’s most famous composer, Fryderyk Chopin, was unveiled in 1926 in the Royal Łazienki Park. It was unfortunately destroyed during World War II but rebuilt and again placed in the park in 1958. Since 1959 the Fryderyk Chopin Society and the Stołeczna Estrada have organised concerts of Chopin music in the shadow of the statue and these concerts have featured many renowned performers over the decades. Concerts are held from mid-May to the end of September each year with performances taking place twice on a Sunday – at 12:00 and at 16:00. The opportunity to hear the music of this great composer at one of the city’s most beautiful spots is one of the most wonderful experiences in the city during the summer.QI‑11, Łazienki Park, ul. Agrykoli 1, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28, Admission free. Every Sunday.

Chopin

returns to Warsaw

Chopin Coffee Shop from 10 a.m. (10.00)

EXHIBITIONS 01.01 - 31.12 » BIBLIA PAUPERUM: THE ART OF THE POOR AND EXCLUDED (DEPICTIONS OF GOD IN FOLK ART)

With such an exhaustive title, we’re really not sure what else there’s left to say about this exhibit, but we’ll try. Combining pieces from various exhibits in the Ethnographic Museum’s vast collection, this particular exhibit focuses on images and representations of God and all that is religious and biblical—through the lens of the less-advantaged population. Given the nature of the perspective, you can expect to see a lot of folk art and references to countryside life.QF‑6, Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, Admission 12/6zł, www.ethnomuseum.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 17:00. Closed Mon.

15.12 - 24.12 » AIR

Air surrounds us everywhere. We can’t see it, but we know it’s there. The Copernicus Science Center’s exhibit “Air” will show you how many aspects of our lives are governed by it. The exhibition at the modern science museum will include workshops on aerodynamics, respiratory systems, and provide you with the opportunity to make your own forest in a jar. In addition to the special workshops, there will be over 45 interactive exhibits to learn everything there is to know about the invisible element. QI‑6, Copernicus Science Centre, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, Entry included with admission to Copernicus Science Centre 33/22zł., www.kopernik.org.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

Chopin Concert everyday at 7 p.m. (19.00)

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August – September 2018 23

What's On 18.07 - 30.09 » PLAC MAŁACHOWSKIEGO 3

25–28.X.2018 Lodz, Klub Wytwórnia

Orbital / Morcheeba / The Opposition / Nosowska & Smolik / Giorgio Moroder / Mery Spolsky www.soundedit.pl Organizer Co-organizer

In the place of car traffic, Plac Małachowskiego 3 will host theatre shows, art exhibitions, dance shows, and other events throughout the summer months. In conjunction with the gallery in the Zachęta building, the area will be closed to cars and replaced with artistic expression and culture. To read the full list of events taking place at the square, visit their website. QF‑6, Zachęta - National Gallery of Art, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, Admission 15/10zł, Thu free., www.zacheta.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

27.05 - 23.09 » OTHER DANCES

New art in Poland is full of bold experiments and abstract scenes. The exhibition Other Dances examines this phenomenon in the field of performing arts. The exhibition will include examples from dance, theatre, music, and visual arts. Various creators from Poland will have their techniques and ideas on display to examine and experience. QI‑10, Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/CSW), ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, Admission 12/6zł, Thu free, students up to 26 years of age 1zł., www.ujazdowski.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

11.04 - 23.09 » LET’S BEE FRIENDS

Feared by children the world over, their importance is often misunderstood. Without these flying insects moving from flower to flower we would lose many species of plants so important to our existence. The exhibition “Let’s be Friends” created by the Cieszyn Castle will examine our troubled relationship with bees. The exhibit will show how cooperation with humans is vital for us both. It will examine the role of beekeepers and the tools used for beekeeping. The collections are made available from the National Museum of Ethnography and partners of the exhibition. The hours of the exhibit are Fridays 15:00-18:00, Saturdays 10:00-18:00, and Sundays 12:00-17:00QF‑6, Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, Tickets 5-20zł. Group tickets 15zł., www.muzeumdladzieci.pl. Every Fri, Sat, Sun.

22.06 - 30.09 » JÓZEF BRANDT 1841–1916

The collection of 19th-century artist Józef Brandt contains around 300 works representing different periods of his artistic activity. He was best known for his depictions of battles and 17th-century military life. Oil paintings, watercolour, and drawings will be enhanced by a reconstruction of Brandt’s original ‘Eastern’ studio in Munich. The studio amassed numerous historic artefacts, pieces of militaria, and Asian costumes, creating an interesting exhibit of the past.QH‑8, National Museum, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 629 30 93, Admission 25/15zł for temporary gallery. Family ticket 50zł., www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. 24 Warsaw In Your Pocket

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What's On 30.05 - 30.09 » ZDZISŁAW BEKSIŃSKI EXHIBITION “IN HOC SIGNO VINCES”

A joint exhibition of the Archdiocese Museum and the Paris Gallery Roi Dore, the exhibition saw great reviews and popularity in France. Zdzisław Beksiński, an architect by profession, began his artistic activity in photography during the 1950’s. His drawings and paintings are known for their great detail. He liked to focus the subject of his work on landscapes, skeletons, various creatures, and sometimes gruesome depictions of life. Beksiński’s work can be seen in many major cities in Poland, but there is no permanent exhibit in Warsaw, making this a rare opportunity for those in the capital. QG‑4, Archdiocese Museum, ul. Dziekania 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 621 34 14, Regular ticket 20zł Discount ticket 15zł, www.maw.art.pl.

11.05 - 02.09 » HOLY NOTHING

The work of Jakub Julian Ziółkowski created partly in the Vietnam will include sculptures, paintings, and ceramics. His work usually connects with elevated spirituality and includes references to religious symbolism and cult objects. Some work was also created jointly with Hyon Gyon who is very close to the principles of Korean shamanism. Together their work and beliefs will combine to form this exhibition. QI‑10, Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/CSW), ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, Admission 12/6zł, Thu free, students up to 26 years of age 1zł., www.obieg.u-jazdowski.pl/en. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

07.07 - 23.09 » GALLERY OF STEEL FIGURES

Enter the main entrance of the Palace of Culture and Science (the side at ul. Marszałkowska), take a left and you reach the Gallery of Steel Figures. Think of Madame Tussauds in London, and this is similar - just that the figures and models are all made from recycled metals! There are cars here, animals, various cartoon and movie characters (Minions, Transformers and the Hulk!) to explore. If you need more detail, the models are made from, well, old nuts, bolts, bits and pieces of metals, basically anything found in a scrapyard! Not cheap to enter, but it is visually fascinating!QE‑8, Palace of Culture & Science, Pl. Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, Tickets 1935zł, www.galleryofsteelfigures.com.

09.03 - 24.09 » ESTRANGED: MARCH ‘68 AND ITS AFTERMATH

With the topic of Jewish-Polish relations being of particular political salience these days (and we won’t say why), this exhibit examines yet another significant historical moment along the timeline of Poland’s post-war political tumult. In March 1968, an anti-Semitic “campaign” was enforced by certain powerful people in Poland’s political landscape, leading to the exile of at least 13,000 Poles of Jewish descent out of the country. This exhibit compiles some of those painful stories, and presents them around a metaphorical railway station—a typical “goodbye” place.QD‑4, POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, Admission 12/8zł, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. iyp.me/polandblog

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See a Warsaw which no longer exists - all in 1:25 scale at the Miniature Park (p.30).

Warsaw Sightseeing In the not-too-distant past, Warsaw was a sea of ruins. From the ashes it arose once more, and being compared to a Phoenix is highly appropriate. Today, Warsaw is a vibrant city, inevitably conscious of its tragic past, but buzzing with confidence, looking to the future. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s plenty to discover here, so read on to find out more...

Essential Warsaw There is far more to Warsaw than its Old Town however, and one museum that demands to be visited is the Warsaw Uprising Museum. It’s here that you’ll learn about the city’s doomed rebellion against the Nazis in 1944. Packed with interactive displays, photographs, video footage and miscellaneous exhibits this is guaranteed to leave a deep mark on all visitors, and will go a long way in explaining why today’s Warsaw is far from the architectural pearl it once was.

Plac Zamkowy in the Old Town.

Sightseeing and Warsaw don’t usually go together, and the reason for that, if not the blame, falls on her citizens. While some cities may have been happy to wait out Nazi occupation, the Warsaw locals were having none of that. The ensuing uprising which took place in 1944 would become both the most glorious and tragic episode in the city’s history. Doomed from the outset the Warsaw Uprising enraged Hitler, and his retribution proved swift and brutal. Warsaw was to be wiped from the face of the map, and his cronies set about their orders with a zealous fury. While Red Army tanks stood stoically stationed across the river the Nazis set about blasting western Warsaw into oblivion. Anything deemed of cultural importance was dynamited, and whole districts were set on fire. By the time ‘liberation’ arrived, over 85% of the city lay in total ruin. “I have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere have I been faced with such destruction,” commented a visibly moved Dwight Eisenhower on a later visit to the city. That the city still stands at all is tribute enough to the indefatigable spirit of the Polish capital.

Although the Nazis flattened the Jewish Ghetto after a heroic uprising in 1943 there are still traces of Warsaw’s Jewish past (p.54), including a remaining piece of the Ghetto wall (ul. Sienna 55, D-8), a memorial where the loading ramp to Treblinka once stood (Umschlagplatz, p.57), as well as one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in Europe (p.54). The crowning jewel for those with an interest in the city’s Jewish past, however, is POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews - the biggest financial investment ever made in a cultural venue in Poland’s history (p.55). The results are amazing, and like the Uprising Museum, it’s simply a museum you shouldn’t leave town without visiting. Despite some amazing new projects in recent years, the city’s defining landmark will always remain the fearsome Palace of Culture and Science (p.63). Looking like something you’d see in Ghostbusters the building towers at just over 231 metres in height, and was until recently the tallest and largest structure in Poland. Commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’ the building was completed in 1955 and built using an estimated 40 million bricks. The crowning glory of the structure is the viewing platform on the 30th floor, a must see.

Nowhere bore the brunt of the Nazi malice more than the Old Town (p.34), and it’s here that most tourists will choose to start their tour of Warsaw. Using paintings and photographs as an architectural blueprint, the Old Town was painstakingly rebuilt, with the reconstruction of the historic centre only completed as late as 1962. The area’s inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List speaks volumes for the effort involved, and nothing is more striking than the colourful, wonky-looking burgher houses that frame the Old Town Square (Rynek Starego Miasta, F-4).

Across the river the Praga suburb (p.50) is undergoing a long overdue revival, and its growing reputation as an artistic haven is evident in the cafes that have sprung up along the pre-war Ząbkowska street. But while the Praga area is breathing once more, it still looks shabby. For a glimpse of Warsaw’s Imperial beauty head instead to her palaces, in particular Łazienki Park and Palace (p.44) and Wilanów Palace - dubbed ‘The Polish Versailles’ (p.47). Enjoy exploring Warsaw.

The historic centre is also home to numerous churches, including the striking St. John’s Cathedral whose details number gothic artworks as well as the tombs of knights, regents and eminent citizens. Marking the edge of old town is the Royal Castle (p.36), reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. The prescribed tour will take you through the Kings’ apartments and chambers, heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments. Although you’ll find plenty of photographic opportunities in and amongst the tight cobbled alleyways save a few shots for the viewing platform at the top of St. Anne’s Church, and don’t leave the area without first exploring the lesser known delights of the New Town.

Relax on the Vistulan Boulevards (p.114)

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Sightseeing TOURIST INFORMATION

GUIDED TOURS

TOURIST INFORMATION Located in the arrivals hall of the new part of the airport, the point is small but has all the necessary guides and maps you might need including In Your Pockets.Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), www.warsawtour.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

AB EVEREST As well as dealing with airport transfers, AB Everest also offer one day tours from Warsaw to popular destinations across Poland, which include: Auschwitz and Kraków, Wieliczka Salt Mine, Białowieża National Park, Toruń and Warsaw Outskirts Tour, to name a few.Qul. Obrońców Tobruku 18, tel. (+48) 722 26 17 31, www.abeverest.pl.

TOURIST INFORMATION This central tourist information office is inside the Palace of Culture (if you exit central station on the Złote Tarasy shopping complex side and cross over the road you’ll see it). Inside you can choose from a series of guides as well as buy some souvenir books and gifts. QE‑8, Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emilii Plater), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 825 72 31, www.warsawtour.pl. Open 08:00 - 19:00. TOURIST INFORMATION Find this point on the Old Town Market Square where you can pick up maps, guides, book tours and buy gifts and souvenirs.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 19/21/21A, MRatusz Arsenał, www.warsawtour.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App

WARSAWPASS A rather nifty little card available from Tourist Information points at the Palace of Culture, The Old Town or simply upon arrival at Chopin Airport (see Tourist Information above). For a one-off payment the card allows you access to Warsaw’s top ten tourist sites, the tourist ‘Hop on, Hop off’ bus service and discounts on various tours and at restaurants. All participating venues and services are listed in the brochure you will receive when purchasing the card. A useful option is that the card also allows you to ‘skip the queue’ at fantastically popular attractions like The Copernicus Science Centre - take our word for it, this can save you hours! The 24, 48 or 72 hour validity starts after the first time you use the card and prices are 119zł, 159zł and 189zł respectively. Keep in mind that it won’t be much use to you when you’re fast asleep at night and also be aware that some participating museums are closed on Mondays! Places in the guide which accept Warsaw Pass card are marked with the Y icon. Qwww.warsawpass.com. 28 Warsaw In Your Pocket

ADVENTURE WARSAW Tours of Warsaw including the popular “off the beaten path” tour which delves into Socialism, communism and of course vodka, all while cruising in a vintage Nysa 522. Alternatively, take the same transport but tour historical Warsaw, from the river Vistula perspective. You can even get inside the Palace of Culture and Science for a look around. Group, private and walking tours also available from this crew of young, enthusiastic local guides, who will even take you and your stag party around town or host a pub crawl. Make time to check out their Museum of Life in the PRL (Muzeum Czar PRLu, ul. Mińska 22 - entrance from ul. Głucha. Open 10:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 8/5zł).QM‑4, ul. Mińska 25A/111 (Praga Południe), MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 515 90 85 05, www.adventurewarsaw.com. Y CITY SIGHTSEEING WARSAW If Warsaw needed proof that it has finally arrived as a tourist destination surely the launch of City Sightseeing is it. Hourlong tours by way of a familiar red, double-decker bus let you take in sights such as the Palace of Culture, the Royal Castle, Łazienki Park and Wybrzeże Gdańskie. Buy one ticket and hop on and off the bus as you please. The bus departs every 30 mins, 10:00-17:00, Mon-Sun from the Palace of Culture on the Emilii Plater side. Commentary available in a multitude of languages including English, Polish, Spanish, French, German, Italian, Russian, Chinese, Japanese and Hebrew. See their website for tour details, routes and timetables.QE‑8, ul. Emilii Plater, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 793 95 79 79, www.city-sightseeing.pl. Tickets 24hrs 60zł, 48hrs 80zł, 72hrs 90zł. 7-day ticket for Warsaw and Kraków/ Gdańsk/ Wrocław available for 110zł. 14-day ticket for all four cities cities costs 200zł. Y CREATOURS Whether you love it or loathe it, the Palace of Culture (PKiN) is a spectacularly imposing architectural reminder of the Communist era. We love it, and there is no better way of visiting than taking one of CREATours guided jaunts around the most imposing halls and chambers in the building (on Saturdays only, you get to see the underground parts of the building, although tours are only in Polish!). The daily tours (every hour from 11:00-16:00) culminate in a visit to the 30th floor viewing platform for stunning views of the city. No need to reserve in advance, just turn up and away you go. They also organise tours of the National Stadium and other tours around Warsaw and beyond. Check site for details.QF‑8, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Marszałkowska), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 65 56, www.creatours.pl. Admission 30/25zł. Y iyp.me/warsaw

Sightseeing EAT POLSKA Ever wondered what Polish cuisine has to offer beyond pierogi? Let energetic guides lead you round some of their favourite haunts! Sample a variety of Polish dishes and vodkas while learning how social and historical events shaped Polish cuisine. Walking between venues allows the knowledgeable guides to point out places of interest (The Food Tour begins at 13:00 and lasts about 4 hours, the Beer Tour at 16:00 is 3.5 hours and the Vodka Tour at 17:00 is about 3.5-4 hours and each costs 290zł) They also offer pierogi-making workshops. Make sure to book ahead by phone or through their website.Qtel. (+48) 661 36 87 58, www.eatpolska.com. SUPER SEGWAY TOURS Ever fantasised about being Paul Blart from the movie Mall Cop? Probably not, but taking a tour around some of Warsaw’s most popular tourist spots on a Segway is a pretty cool and unusual way of visiting the sights while saving the soles of your shoes. Each tour begins with a 10-20 minute training session at Super Segway HQ in the Old Town with your guide and instructor, then armed with a helmet, you’re off! Several well planned routes (2-3hrs and 15-20km), stick to the green areas of the city and skillfully avoid the crowds. Other options include an off road tour, a Jewish tour, ‘tailor made’ tours and Segway sporting events. Prices start from 30 Euro per hour per person.QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 52/13, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 506 16 67 67, www.segway-tours.pl. WARSAW CITY-TOUR Bus tours of Warsaw on a yellow double-decker bus. The entire route takes about 1.5-2 hours and covers all the major sites in the city including the Old Town, Jewish Warsaw, WWII, Palace of Culture and Łazienki Park. In August the bus runs every hour between 9:50-16:50. From 01 September every hour 09:50-15:50, and from 16 September every two hours from 09:50-15:50.QF‑6, Pl. Małachowskiego 3 (Zachęta Gallery), tel. (+48) 500 03 34 14, www.city-tour.com.pl. Single journey ticket 50/44zł. One day ticket 70/64 zł. Two day ticket 90/82zł. Family tickets available.One and two day tickets offer hop on/hop off option. WARSAW SELF-DRIVE TOUR The Warsaw Self-Drive Tour is a brand new service from the people at WPT1313 tours. They now provide you the unique chance to explore Warsaw in a vintage Polish commie car - the iconic FIAT 126p. They also offer convoy packages so groups can tour the city together with your friends. Check out all of their different cars and packages on their website, then call them up, hop in, tuck in your knees and off you go!QF‑8, Plac Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 882 13 13, www.wpt1313.com.

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THE STORY OF SYRENKA

The mermaid is the symbol of Warsaw, and as such you’ll find her likeness on everything from buses to beer cans. Firmly established as an icon of Warsaw you’ll find no less than three mermaid statues in Warsaw, specifically on Old Town Square (F-4), Świętokrzyski Bridge (I-4) and on ul. Karowa (G/H-5). The original mermaid – or syrena in local parlance – stands in the Historical Museum, and was crafted from bronze by the expert hand of Ludwika Nitschowa. The first known mention of a mermaid as the symbol of Warsaw can be traced to a royal seal dated from 1390, though this one certainly wasn’t much to look at depicting a hideous looking bloke with a dragon’s tail. It’s no surprise that over the next few centuries this rather grim form was given a bit of plastic surgery. The actual legend rather has been debated and disputed scores of times. One story is that Prince Kazimierz, while hunting in the marshlands that are now Warsaw, lost his bearings and faced a night in the open. Miraculously, a mermaid emerged and guided the prince to safety by firing burning arrows into the sky. Warsaw was founded out of gratitude, and the mermaid adopted as its emblem. Another story suggests that the Warsaw mermaid originally hailed from foreign climes. Accompanied by her twin sister the pair swam across the Baltic Sea, arriving in Gdańsk. Here the sisters split, one swimming to Copenhagen and the other downthe Vistula finally emerging near the present-day Old Town. Local fishermen soon noticed someone tampering with their nets, freeing the fish in the process, and teamed up to catch this pesky vandal once and for all. They soon changed their minds once they saw her, and her sirenlike singing voice made her a firm favourite among the lads. All except one who decided to trap her and take her on tour around the sideshows of Poland. His plan was soon foiled after a smitten fisherman hatched a daring plan to free her. In thanks to the townspeople who rescued her the Syrenka swore to make it her life’s mission to protect Warsaw. It’s this defensive stance of hers which explains why you’ll see her armed to the teeth with a sword and shield.QI‑6. August – September 2018 29

Sightseeing MUSEUMS Warsaw now has an ever more impressive selection of museums, and even older establishments are getting facelifts to bring the visitor experience into the 21st century. Without doubt the big four places on your list - all of which you’ll actually find in other sections of the guide - should be the Uprising Museum (p.59), which charts the defining period in the history of modern Warsaw; the Copernicus Science Centre (p.33), which is the city’s most interactive and kid-friendly museum; the Chopin Museum (p.43), which is both interesting and another one of Warsaw’s best examples of a modern museum experience; and the new POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews (p.55), which highlights 1,000 years of Jewish history in Warsaw. Most of the museums listed below present a cycle of temporary exhibitions, details of which can be found in our Culture & Events section on page 20. KATYŃ MUSEUM The Museum has recently been relocated to the impressive Citadel and the permanent collection can now be viewed in appropriately grand and stoic surroundings. The museum documents the shocking events of 1940 when around 20,000 Polish officers were executed by their Soviet captors in the middle of a Russian forest. The museum has a host of objects, documents and personal effects that have been recovered from the site near Smoleńsk, Russia.

VODKA MUSEUM Whisky is to Scotland as wine is to France, and going by the same logic, vodka is to Poland. Now, I fully understand most experiences you may have had with Polish vodka have likely been at a party with the intention [of your host] to make you drink as much as possible! The Vodka Museum is an independent undertaking, its origins formed in the pure passion for Poland’s national drink by the owners of the fantastic Elixir restaurant; it aims to show you the fascinating history of Polish vodka, and teach you how it should be respectfully, slowly sipped, tasted, and more importantly - enjoyed (think how you would treat a dram of whisky and you get the idea). Don’t worry, you’ll get to have a tasting at the end. The museum contains hundreds of original pieces connected to vodka, showcasing such unique items as a Napoleonic soldier’s canteen, once filled with vodka for the Russian campaign, to vodka sent to the U.S. during the prohibition of alcohol in the 1920-30s (a brotherly gesture, for alcohol starved brothers across the pond!). A visit to this museum is an eye-opening and enjoyable experience, which instils in any visitor a new appreciation for the spirit. Highly recommended. QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 657 11 21, www.muzeumwodki.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon, Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. 30 Warsaw In Your Pocket

The artefacts from the victims and a scrolling list of the victim’s names needs no explanation and the multimedia presentation of the extenuating circumstances, the victim’s stories and historical relevancy are well thought out and it’s worth exploring the whole museum. Despite this, there are, however, audio guides available for 10zł.QE‑1, ul. Jana Jeziorańskiego 4 (entrance from Nowomiejska gate), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 261 87 83 42, www. muzeumkatynskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission free. Guided tours (available in English, Polish, Russian) 60zł-150zł depending on language and size of group; arrange in advance. U MINIATURE PARK Fans of architecture and miniature models rejoice! This amazing initiative and museum is recreating 1:25 scale models of some of the pearls of pre-war Warsaw architecture, and remarkably, after moving from its old location on ul. Senatorska, the museum is now located in an Old Town courtyard. The project gives viewers a unique look into the past, for as much as Warsaw rebuilt a lot of its pre-war splendour, so much more was lost during the Second World War and never rebuilt. With that in mind, here you get to see recreations of some stunning buildings which were completely destroyed, such as the one iconic Saxon Palace. The historical museum has a clear cut and ambitious educational mission that is ever expanding and aided by considerable multimedia installations. A must see for kids, architecture, and history buffs of any age. Highly recommended!QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 66, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 509 83 33 32, www.miniaturymazowieckie.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 14/12zł. Children under 5 free. Family tickets available. MUSEUM OF MODERN ART ON THE VISTULA The Museum on the Vistula is a new exhibition space, an addition to the Museum of Modern Art (Muzeum Sztuki Nowoczesnej - headquartered in the city centre on ul. Pańska 3) right on the river’s edge, which will house the majority of the museum’s exhibitions until the new headquarters is built. Opened to the public in March 2017, the building was designed by Austrian architect Adolf Krischanitz, and between 2008-10, was used by the Berlin based Kunsthalle Art Gallery. Now, the building has been provided free of charge to MoMA by the Viennese ThyssenBornermisza Art Contemporary foundation. Very kind of them. Check out MoMA’s site for current/future exhibitions. To get there, take the metro to Centrum Nauki Kopernik or take buses 127, 318 & 385 to ‘Biblioteka Uniwersytecka’ and cross the street to the Vistulan Boulevards.QH‑5, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 431 07 55, www.artmuseum. pl/en/muzeum. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Fri 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From September open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 1zł, children under 7 and students up to 26 free. Y iyp.me/warsaw

Sightseeing

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August â&#x20AC;&#x201C; September 2018 31

Sightseeing SASKI PALACE

One piece of lost Warsaw that many hope will rise again is the Saski Palace, formerly located in the grounds of Saski Park (F-6). Originally the residence of the Morsztyn family the building was purchased by King Augustus II and substantially enlarged and used by both him and his successor, Augustus III. Off-topic, but nevertheless worth airing, amateur historians will delight in learning that Augustus II sired 12 children by different women, while his successor managed to match the number, only this time staying loyal to his wife in the process. Back on track, when Augustus III passed away (shagged out most likely) the building fell into disuse before being rented out for accommodation. Between 18061816 the Prussians established Warsaw Lyceum on the premises, and conflicting evidence suggests that Chopin either lived there for a time, or that his father taught French in one of the outbuildings. Extensively remodelled in 1842 the Palace finally assumed its best known shape in 1925 when the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier was added to the series of colonnades used to link the two wings together. Serving as the seat of the Polish General Staff after WWI it was here that the German Enigma Code was first cracked by local science boffins. WWII signalled the end of the Palace and it was flattened by retreating Nazi troops, with only the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier surviving the blasts. But the story continues. In a rare act of foresight the city of Warsaw decided in 2006 to cover the cost of rebuilding Saski Palace. Budimex Dromex was awarded the tender to undertake the work and the façade, thanks to blueprints made available by the Central Military Archive, it was planned to look just like it did in 1939. Completion was originally set for 2010, though building did not entirely go to plan. Although sappers failed to find any undetonated devices, builders came across over 10,000 rare archaeological finds including baroque sculptures, secret tunnels, ancient wells, German helmets and wine glasses bearing Augustus III’s monogram. The one problem being that no provision was made for discoveries of this scale, meaning that many of the treasures recovered corroded after being incorrectly stored. Due to the financial crisis of 2008, the rebuilding plans were put on hold. We will be in for a bit of a wait before we see the palace again (2019 seems to be the rallying cry, although seeming more unlikely as time goes on).QF‑6. 32 Warsaw In Your Pocket

NATIONAL MUSEUM Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre inter-war building, Warsaw’s National Museum has thankfully just reopened after a long renovation that has seen many changes including the renovation of the museum’s main courtyard, a major rearrangement of the permanent galleries and an impressive upcoming schedule of temporary exhibits. Considering the new overhaul this museum is a must for anyone visiting the city. Dating from 1862 and operating under its current name since 1916, there’s a huge array of permanent exhibitions and antiquities. Visitors will find a wealth of delightful 15thcentury Dutch and Flemish paintings as well as several Botticellis in the newly currated Gallery of Old Masters which also includes several galleries of Polish art from the 16th century onwards, including some of the best work by the country’s leading painters - Chełmoński and Matejko to name a few. There is also a large gallery of medieval art and a gallery dedicated to works from the 20th and 21st centuries, including exceptional works of Polish painters Witkacy, Władysław Strzemiński and Wilhelm Sasnal. The “Professor Kazimierz Michałowski Faras Gallery” is the newest permanent gallery to open and is the only exhibition in Europe featuring Medieval Nubian paintings from the Nile River Valley south of the First Cataract. The latest exhibition to open is the Gallery of Polish Design. All in all, it’s worth seeing. Make sure to check their website. QH‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 629 30 93, www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 20/12zł for the permanent gallery. Family tickets available. Tue free. UY PALMIRY NATIONAL MEMORIAL & MUSEUM This highly recommended museum in the forest outside Warsaw significantly ups the standard for how a small exhibit can pack a huge punch. A little history: during World War II the forests of Palmiry and Kampinos became a refuge for those fleeing the destruction in Warsaw (many Home Army soldiers regrouped in the woods). It also became the site for 21 separate mass executions performed by German soldiers against 1,700 Poles and Jews, many of whom were academic and cultural figures. Inside this well-organised modern block visitors will see how the Poles used the forest for training and hiding weapons, and how the Germans turned their refuge into a killing field. Information boards clearly explain what happened in the forest (these are some of the best English translations we’ve seen) and displays include exhumed items like documents and photos, even sections of trees with ammunition still buried in their bark. Outside visitors will see a giant cemetery of marked and unmarked crosses dedicated to the victims. While the museum is mainly dedicated to what happened here during World War II it also makes note of the fact that Poles have taken to these woods during the Kościuszko Uprising in 1794, the November Uprising in 1831 and the January Uprising in 1863. Getting to the museum from Warsaw is fairly easy, though iyp.me/warsaw

Sightseeing a little far. Take the Metro to Młociny Bus and Metro Station (end of the line) then catch bus no. 750, which will take you straight to ‘Łomna-Cmentarz’, then you’ll have to walk the final few hundred metres to the museum. For this journey, you’ll need a zone 2/strefa 2 ticket. Depending on the time of day (peak/off-peak), buses run every 30-60 minutes, there and back.QPalmiry, tel. (+48) 22 720 81 14, www.palmiry.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission free. POLISH ARMY MUSEUM The chronological history of the Polish army is presented in a series of gloomy rooms. Suits of armour, crossbows, muskets, medals and paintings pack this museum, though the scarcity of English-language explanations mean you’ll need to hire an English-speaking guide to get the most out of the place (make sure to call in advance). The room at the end is dedicated to Poland’s role in WWII, with specific emphasis on the Warsaw Uprising. Curiously, the best part of the museum is actually free of charge: the outdoor collection of 20th century weaponry includes an array of tanks, missiles, aircraft and rocket launchers (open all year round). From Jun-Sep two planes will be available for tourists to get inside for a separate cost of 3zł.QH‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 52 71, www.muzeumwp.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 15/8zł, Thu free. Polish and English audioguide 5zł. N

PLACES OF INTEREST FORMER GESTAPO HQ (MAUZOLEUM WALKI I MĘCZEŃSTWA) Every bit as disturbing as Pawiak is the former Gestapo HQ, found on Al. Szucha 25. Built between 1927-30, the building’s original purpose was as a centre for religious beliefs. In 1939 it came under Nazi control, and for the next five years became one of the most feared addresses in Poland operating, among other capacities, as a brutal interrogation centre. The imposing building, currently housing the Ministry of Education, was left untouched by the carnage of war and now also holds a small but sobering museum within its bowels. Cells, where prisoners were held prior to interrogation, have been left largely as they were. Known as ‘trams,’ Poles would be sat on wooden benches facing the wall as they awaited their fate. Forbidden to eat or sleep, they were compelled to sit motionless in darkness, sometimes for days on end. Failure to do so would lead to almost certain death. The bullet marks scarring the walls tell their own harrowing story. Prisoners were subjected to savage beatings, attacked with dogs and electrocuted. Those who didn’t co-operate would, in some cases, be forced to watch their families being tortured.QH‑11, Al. Szucha 25, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 629 49 19, www.muzeum-niepodleglosci.pl/mauzoleum_szucha. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5zł, Thu free. iyp.me/polandblog

COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE

A rare example of European Union funding being used in a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is the very best science centre in Europe, and one of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions. Arriving at the main doors of the stunning building, visitors are met by the centre’s very own Robothespian - an interactive humanoid robot that can be prompted to make a number of sounds and movements. Not only will you learn an awful lot, but you’ll have a blast exploring the museum’s numerous thematic areas spread over two floors, among them: Bzzz! (aimed at kids between the ages of 0-6), RE:Generation (for young adults) and the remaining section has combined previous exhibitions into an ‘Experiment Zone’. As with any science centre, each area demonstrates a range of phenomenon by way of experiments, button pressing, quizzes and in some cases physical exertion. Don’t overlook the Heavens of Copernicus planetarium, which immerses visitors in 20 million stars, and also screens films about natural science and the origins of life on earth (separate ticket required, admission 2D: 22/16zł and 3D 27/21zł). It’s easy to declare that the centre is well-worth a few hours of your time and will impress you with its design and range of experiments. Additionally, the rooftop garden is open Tue-Sun 10:00-20:00 in August, with a summer cinema available until the end of the month. In September, it’s open Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00. To get there take buses 105, 118 or 127 to the ‘Biblioteka Uniwersytecka’ stop (CSC is around the corner), or buses 102 or 162 to ‘Metro Centrum Nauki Kopernik.’QI‑6, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Closed Mon. 3 Sep - 31 Dec: Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00, Closed Mon, Last entrance 1hr before closing. Note that Planetarium has separate opening hours. Admission 33/22zł. From September 3 admission 31/21zł. Y August – September 2018 33

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A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement facades and picturesque plazas, it’s easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaw’s top tourist area. A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ of Warsaw’s golden days when it was one of the country’s architectural pearls in addition to being its cosmopolitan capital, the Old Town was entirely rebuilt after the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, and is also symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the ruins of WWII and of Varsovians’ pride in their city. At the end of 1944, 85% of Warsaw’s left-bank structures had been razed to the ground and half of its population had perished. The Old Town was hit with particular Nazi efficiency, and by the time the Red Army rolled across the river it was little more than a smouldering wasteland. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau chose to rebuild the historic centre, a painstaking process that would last until 1962. Using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs the Old Town was carefully rebuilt, and though now only half a century old, Warsaw’s historic quarter is an architectural miracle, and a stunning testament of the city’s will to survive.

WHAT TO SEE Most visits to the Old Town begin on  Plac Zamkowy under w King Sigismund’s Column. There isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city, and not a minute of the day when the steps to the statue aren’t besieged by iyp.me/warsaw

Old Town dating couples, school kids and skateboarders. Erected in 1644 by Sigismund’s son, Władysław IV, the 22-metre column was designed by Italian architects Augustyn Locci and Constantino Tencalla. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived, losing only his sword, and he was returned to his new perch in 1949. The remains of the original column can be seen nearby at the side of the e Royal Castle. Moving north, head up ul. Świętojańska to have a gaze at the historically rich r St. John the Baptist Cathedral (ul. Świętojańska 8) and the Renaissance-era t Jesuit Church next door (ul. Świętojańska 10). If you’re struggling to believe that at the end of 1944 all before you was just rubble, take a look at the black and white photographs illustrating the devastation on ul. Zapiecek; the Old Town’s subsequent inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1980 is also remembered in some cobblestone pavers here. Resisting the draw of the market square for the time being, instead head down ul. Piwna - aptly named ‘Beer Street’ after the 15th century breweries that once operated here - for a glimpse of y St. Martin’s Church at ul. Piwna 9/11. Flattened during the war, the only fragment to survive was a half-burned figure of Jesus. During the period of Martial Law, Solidarity supporters would convene here to worship and hold secret meetings. As with the rest of the Old Town, the real beauty of ul. Piwna lies in the details - check out the elaborate motifs and gargoyles that peer from the facades, including a flock of pigeons on the portal of number 6. Stay on the left flank of the Old Town to check out the area around ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska, once home to a small square used for executions. Nicknamed ‘Piekarka,’ this is where witches and other ne’er do wells were burned at the stake, hanged, or beheaded. Marking the end of Piekarska, just outside the old city walls, check out the sword waving figure of u Jan Kiliński - a legendary Polish patriot and hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Tadeusz Kościuszko himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5; this wide street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the narrow street running at a 90-degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages. Directly behind the wall, and onto ul. Podwale, you’ll find one of Warsaw’s most poignant landmarks - i The Little Insurgent Monument, which honours the memory of the child soldiers who fought and died during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. Follow Podwale as it curves northwards, and you’ll eventually arrive at the o Barbican. Crowning the set of defensive walls which once protected the city, this fearsome rotund structure dates from 1548. Today it serves as a bridge between the Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenage drinkers and ‘artists’ selling their wares. iyp.me/polandblog

August – September 2018 35

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ROYAL CASTLE

More a palace than a castle, this building is the pride of Warsaw, reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by now deceased commie buddies such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money for rebuilding came from generous donations from exiled Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the residence of Polish kings, then of the president and then the seat of parliament. The prescribed tour will take you through the Kings’ apartments and chambers, heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments. Maps on the wall reflect Poland’s greatest days, when it stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea. The apartments of Prince Józef Poniatowski are also open to the public, although a separate ticket is needed, and includes his surprisingly cerulean bedroom and grand collection of paintings. Some of the halls are reputed to be intermittently haunted by a ‘white lady.’ According to legend her appearance signals imminent disaster. The nearby chapel boasts an urn containing the heart of Polish hero and freedom fighter Tadeusz Kościuszko. Next on the tour, the Houses of Parliament. Last but not least, the opulent Great Assembly Hall has so much gold stuck to the walls it’s hard to resist the temptation to scratch some off - just a bit, they wouldn’t notice. Behave or get accosted by vigilant wardens and enjoy the views across the river to the Praga district instead. For those interested in the Castle’s reconstruction the basement exhibition “From Destruction to Reconstruction” details the building’s resurrection after World War II rendered the place a pile of rubble. Note that this exhibition is free, The east-wing also contains the paid Gallery of Paintings, Sculpture and the Decorative Arts, which includes works by Rembrandt. QG‑4, Pl. Zamkowy 4, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 30/20zł. Group ticket 25/15zł, children under 7 free. Wed free. U 36 Warsaw In Your Pocket

At this point you’ll find your nose pointing straight down ul. Nowomiejska, which will finally lead you to the beautiful a Old Town Square (Rynek). Measuring 90 by 73 metres, this square is Warsaw’s defining highlight, lined with richly-decorated burgher houses. During the 15th century the Old Town Square was home to Warsaw’s Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Today you’ll find a couple of water pumps dating from the 19th century, as well as Warsaw’s best loved monument - s Syrenka (p. 29). Cast in 1855 this mermaid’s form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in the capital. While the Old Town Square presents no shortage of ways to part tourists from their cash, one place that is worth popping into is d U Fukiera at Rynek 27 (p. 94). The culinary tradition here dates from 1810 when the Fukier family turned this place into Warsaw’s top winery, and their guest list reads as something of a Who’s Who of stage and screen. Nearby is the f Warsaw Museum (Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, p. 37). Leaving the square from the opposite corner from the Historical Museum, make a left down ul. Celna, turn left again on ul. Brzozowa and visit the g Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre for an indepth multimedia led trip detailing the Old Town’s architectural history, from origins, to destruction and post-war rebuilding. Head back up ul. Brzozowa to reach a grassy bank that offers sweeping views of the River Wisła. Known as h Gnojna Góra (Compost Hill), this small knoll once served as the town rubbish dump, and at one stage was also renowned for its healing properties - people with obscene amounts of money would actually come here to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis (doesn’t work, we’ve tried). Head back towards the Old Town by walking towards ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city. Finally, conclude your epic walking tour by swerving onto ul. Kanonia. Once a graveyard, this little square features a cracked cathedral bell (that promises good luck if you touch the top and circle it) as well as one of the world’s most narrow houses at number 20/22. Note the covered walkway nearby, which links the Cathedral to the Royal Castle. This was built after a failed assassination attempt on Sigismund III. The King escaped unharmed, but the hapless hitman, Michał Piekarski, found himself skinned alive, stretched by four horses and then chopped into pieces with an axe! You yourself are now within horse-stretching distance of your starting point by the Royal Castle and Sigismund’s Column. Point your fatigued figure in the direction of Krakowskie Przedmieście and prepare yourself to take the path of Kings along The Royal Route. Cue fanfare! iyp.me/warsaw

Old Town WARSAW MUSEUM After a long and exhaustive renovation, one of our favourite museums in Warsaw finally reopened in grand fashion at the end of May 2017. The revamped museum’s stored permanent collection (300,000 items total) now consists of three new curated sections: The Things of Warsaw, Warsaw Data and The History of Tenement Houses. Only 7,352 objects were initially selected to be displayed over 8 thematic rooms, however, now all remaining rooms are open (21 in total). Every item has been carefully chosen and many played starring roles in the city’s storied history. There is plenty to see in this fascinating museum. The very buildings the museum is located in are a sight to behold. Interestingly, despite severe damage during the war, many of the original aspects of the architecture remained intact and can be viewed during your visit. The museum is a truly amazing and kinaesthetic way of experiencing the events and understanding the processes that formed Warsaw as we know it today. Note, a ticket here also grants entry into the Praga District Museum. QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 277 44 02, www.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł comes with headphones. Thu free. UY ADAM MICKIEWICZ MUSEUM OF LITERATURE Find out about the smart Alec who inspired Romanticism in Poland. As well as having a number of manuscripts and historical artefacts connected with Mickiewicz, the museum also has exhibits connected with other leading Polish writers. If Polish writers are your bag be sure to check out the three other related sites that are part of the city’s Museum of Literature and celebrate historic authors: the Władysław Broniewski Museum of Literature at ul. J. Dąbrowskiego 51 (F-15), the Andrzej Strug Museum of Literature at Al. Niepodległości 210/10A (E-11) and the Maria Dąbrowska Museum of Literature at ul. Polna 40/31 (G-11) temporarily moved to Rynek Starego Miasta 22/24. QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 20, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 76 91, www.muzeumliteratury.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat and every last Sun of the month. Admission 6/5zł, Sun is free for the permanent exhibit. Children and students up to 26 years of age pay 1zł. N OLD TOWN HERITAGE INTERPRETATION CENTRE Situated off the Old Town square, down toward the viewing point over the river, the Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre is often overlooked, and indeed sometimes confused with, the main Warsaw Museum found in the market square. Indeed, the Interpretation Centre is a branch of the Warsaw Museum, however, it focuses on the architectural history of the Old Town and of its destruction during World War II and rebuilding efforts thereafter. The museum includes some great interactive multimedia pieces as you walk through the old basements of the building.QF‑4, ul. Brzozowa 11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 34 02, www. ciz.muzeumwarszawy.pl/en. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/7zł. Thu free. UY iyp.me/polandblog

pARK mINIATUR

wOJEWÓDZTWA mAZOWIECKIEGO krakowskie przedmieście street 66

explore warsaw as it used to be...

open everyday 10:00-21.00 “ (...)Many splendid pieces of Warsaw’s

architecture are gone or disfigured forever — victims of war and communism. But now some can be appreciated again — in miniature(...) ”

www.miniaturymazowieckie.pl fa ce b o o k . co m /p a r k m i n i a t u r August – September 2018 37

The Royal Route

Walk off into the sunset by following our guided tour of Warsaw’s Royal Route, beginning here on Plac Zamkowy.

Warsaw’s famed ‘Royal Route’ links the city’s three Royal residences, starting from the Royal Castle on Plac Zamkowy, via Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Island, en route to Wilanów Palace in the district of the same name. Covering 11km in length, this main artery through the city takes in a great range of Warsaw’s historic buildings, parks, churches and monuments, making a trek down the ‘path of the Kings’ a ‘must-do’ part of any visit to the city. The heart of the route, along Krakowskie Przedmieście and Nowy Świat, will also lead you past, or more likely into, a grand selection of hostelries, restaurants and shops. Granted, a few of the further out parts of the route may not be anything to write home about, but it really is worth making the effort in order to visit the beautiful Wilanów Palace, gardens and parkland. We let you know what not to miss in our walking tour of the most travelled stretch between Plac Zamkowy and Plac Trzech Krzyży below.

KRAKOWSKIE PRZEDMIEŚCIE Krakowskie Przedmieście is easily one of Poland’s most prestigious and well-known streets. It stretches from the Royal Castle (Pl. Zamkowy 4, G-4) in the Old Town until it blends into ul. Nowy Świat. With the Royal Castle and Old Town covered extensively elsewhere in the guide, we begin our stroll from the sabre-rattling King Sigismund’s Column just outside the castle. This popular meeting point sees its steps visited by buskers, tourists and whitegowned brides in search of memorable snaps. From 38 Warsaw In Your Pocket

this point head to St. Anne’s Church (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, G-4), a neo-classical effort that survived the war but came within a whisker of collapse when work on the W-Z street tunnel in 1949 caused several landslides; it took a team of 400 workers two weeks to shore the foundations and stabilise the soil, but the real hero of the hour was Romuald Cebertowicz - a professor who invented a way of solidifying the soil via the use of electrical currents. The interior of St. Anne’s is fine, but the real reason for visiting is the viewing platform, which offers impressive views of the Old Town, distant shots of the Praga district with the red and white of the National Stadium dominating, and of the city centre skyline with the big point building (yes, that one) looking over all others. A short stroll will take you to the Adam Mickiewicz monument (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5, G-5). This statue was erected in 1898 - the centenary of the birth of Poland’s best-loved bard. Unveiled at a time of Imperial Russian repression the very creation of his likeness was regarded as something of a bombshell, and over 12,000 patriotic Poles turned up to cheer the ribbon cutting. Standing just behind Mr. Mickiewicz is a 1784 pink building recognisable for having a chunk missing from its facade, and the 17th century Carmelite Church (Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and of St. Joseph, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 52/54, G-5) next door is one of the best examples of the classical style to be found in Poland. iyp.me/warsaw

The Royal Route Stop for photos by the stone lions and stern looking guards outside the Presidential Palace (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48, G-5). Construction on the palace began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, although he died before it was completed. It passed into the hands of various aristocratic families and in the 18th century it became the famed venue for lavish society banquets - none being more extravagant than the party held to celebrate the coronation of Stanislaw II August Poniatowski in 1789, when the astounding sum of over two million złoty was spent entertaining 4,000 guests. Some will say it was money well spent; Poniatowski proved to be one of Poland’s finest monarchs and the constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very grounds, is recognised as Europe’s first. When Poland regained independence in 1918 the reconstructed building was commandeered to serve as home to the Polish Prime Minister and his Council of Ministers. It saw more momentous events in 1955, this time when the Warsaw Pact – the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO – was ratified within its walls. In 1989 round table talks between the communists and the opposition were held here, paving the way for political freedom, and in 1994 it was appointed as the official home of the Polish President and is where current President Andrzej Duda and his family presently reside. The Prez obviously needs classy neighbours, so next door you’ll find the elegant Bristol Hotel (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, G-5). A brass plaque boasts of its many famous guests: Picasso, Nixon and Dietrich, to name but a few. Across the street is the newly revamped Raffles Hotel Europejski - fun fact, it was here in 1967 The Rolling Stones stayed during their 1st visit to Poland, all under the watchful eye of the security services. Legend has it they very much enjoyed Polish vodka in the hotel bar... we’ll leave it at that. Across the street again, the current building of the Ministry of Culture and Art (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 15) is also home to its own historical factoid - it was here that Napoleon met his paramour Marie Walewska at a ball held in his honour.

Warsaw University entrance

iyp.me/polandblog

PRESIDENTIAL PALACE

Of all the palaces, institutions, monuments and churches that line Krakowskie Przedmieście, none is more important than the Presidential Palace at number 46/48 - that mysterious fenced-off building guarded by stone lions and stern-looking soldiers. Construction began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It passed into the hands of various aristocratic families and in the 18th century became famed for its banquets - the most extravagant being held to commemorate the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789; over 2 million złoty was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests. Poniatowski was to prove one of the nation’s finest monarchs and the Constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very grounds, is recognised as Europe’s first - and only the second in the world. A statue of Poniatowski’s brother, himself a military hero, was added in 1965. After 1818 the Palace became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, and its halls entertained many a visiting Tsar. In 1852 calamity struck, however, and the Palace was burned to the ground. Extensively remodelled throughout the course of its history one of its biggest revamps came at the beginning of the 20th century when one wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918 the Palace was commandeered to serve as home of the Prime Minister and his Council of Ministers. Amazingly it survived both the 1939 Siege of Warsaw and the Warsaw Uprising five years later, though that did little to stop the authorities from giving it a further facelift. It saw more momentous events in 1955 when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as the official home of the Polish president, which is why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out, and square-jawed soldiers pointing their weapons at anyone who strays too close. The new Polish President Andrzej Duda, elected in spring 2015, currently resides in the Palace with his family.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

Photo by Stanisław Kłosin

August – September 2018 39

The Royal Route NOWY ŚWIAT

Copernicus holding his astronomical model on Krakowskie Przedmieście.

Going further, why all of a sudden do you see young, fresh faced kids? Well, you’re in Warsaw University-land. The Uni’s main campus lies behind the grand gateway at ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28 (G-6). Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as ‘Villa Regia,’ was remodelled and renovated several times before Warsaw U was established here in 1819. The composer Fryderyk Chopin even lived here (more on him later). The uni had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in retaliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the university continued to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar calmed down enough to rubber stamp the creation of a School of Medicine. Today, with some 57,000 students on the roll call, the university stands out as the largest and arguably best in Poland. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning hack Ryszard Kapuściński, the late president Lech Kaczyński and poet Julian Tuwim. Head across the street to visit the Church of the Holy Cross (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, G-6). This is the famed final resting place of Fryderyk Chopin’s heart, which was sealed in an urn at his own request and placed behind a tablet featuring his likeness, becoming a place of pilgrimage for his legions of fans. Indeed, this whole area is closely connected to Chopin, and we suggest checking out our walking tour of sites connected to the man on p.42-43. Finish your Krakowskie Przedmieście wander with a visit to the Nicolaus Copernicus monument, located opposite the church, appropriately seated in front of the Polish Academy of Sciences (ul. Nowy Świat 72, G-6). The monument was unveiled in 1830 and has seen plenty of action, particularly during WWII when the Nazis added a bronze plaque suggesting the astronomer was actually German. In 1942 a brave boy scout removed the plaque, causing the Nazis to remove the monument and bomb several others as retribution. Fortunately Copernicus was recovered and restored following the war. The controversial plaque is in the Warsaw Museum (Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, F-4).QG‑4, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet. 40 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Nip across the ul. Świętokrzyska intersection and Krakowskie Przedmieście suddenly becomes the New World! The story of ul. Nowy Świat (New World Street) dates back to medieval times when it was traversed by Kings on their way between Warsaw and Kraków, with the first settlements appearing in the area during the 17th century. Levelled during WWII, the street found itself rebuilt in rather uniform neo-classical style, as returning it to its predominantly Art Nouveau pre-war style was simply unfeasible. Nowy Świat, along with its little off-shoot streets, has long been seen as one of THE places to be seen and is home to numerous shops, bars and eateries. Expect a myriad of modern and traditional restaurants and coffee shops, including the popular Bierhalle microbrewery which makes an ideal pitstop at ul. Nowy Świat 64 (G-7), before shoving off to snap a pic of the former home of cult writer and Anglophile Joseph Conrad at number 45. If it’s too early in the day for a hefty German style beer, drop into the renowned Café Blikle (ul. Nowy Świat 33, G-7), famous for once serving doughnuts to a young and sweet-toothed Charles de Gaulle. Just across the street you will find super trendy ul. Foksal (G-7) for more gastronomic and drinking opportunities; follow it to its end to see Zamoyski Palace (ul. Foksal 1/2/4), a neo-renaissance pearl designed by Marconi and the scene of a botched assassination attempt on the Russian governor in 1863. Infuriated Cossack troops reacted by launching a piano once tickled by Chopin out the window, though nowadays the drama is limited to dancing in the basement club or dining on the elegant ground floor. Back onto Nowy Świat you should now be in sight of our city’s famous plastic Palm Tree which stands on the de Gaulle roundabout at the intersection of Al. Jerozolimskie and Nowy Świat. First off, the tree is not actually a tree, rather a steel column (specially designed so it can bend in the wind), covered with natural bark and leaves made from polyethylene. Created by artist Joanna Rajkowska, the palm links the fauna of the city of Jerusalem with its namesake avenue ‘Jerozolimskie’ in Warsaw. Manufactured in California the tree sent city hall into a spin, its baffled bureaucrats not knowing what the devil to do with it; seeing that it wasn’t

Warsaw’s famous, and oddly placed, Palm Tree

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The Royal Route

Plac Zamkowy

a tree, building nor a monument there was nothing in their big book of rules directing what to do about it. Eventually it was unveiled to a curious Warsaw public on December 12, 2002. The populace liked this surprise Christmas present so much it became a permanent fixture, as well as the occasional sleeping habitat of returning clubbers too trollied to figure they haven’t stumbled on a desert oasis. And with that in mind, before reaching the palm tree, however, one must stop off at an oasis, and there is no place better than the legendary rat-like maze of Pawilony (The Pavilions) located behind the gates at number 22. Klaps (ul. Nowy Świat 22/28, Pavilion 12A, G-8) is a can’tmiss experience if you like your décor to include a wall of plastic boobs and beer taps crowned with vibrators! Before crossing the busy roundabout keep your eyes peeled for a poignant Socialist Realist mural of a girl holding a pistol - one of the earliest tributes to the Warsaw Uprising. Once safely across de Gaulle roundabout, you will be greeted by a monument to the great General himself. Behind him stands the hulking edifice of the former Communist HQ at Nowy Świat 6 (H-8). Completed in 1948, rumours that it was secretly connected by a tunnel to the Palace of Culture appear unsubstantiated, but you have to love the irony that it briefly served as home to the stock exchange; today the building hosts numerous offices, a Ferrari dealership and Cuda na Kiju - one of Warsaw’s best real ale multi-tap bars. Scurry along this fairly uninspiring stretch of Nowy Świat to Pl. Trzech Krzyży (H-8), home to the beautiful 19th century classical style St. Alexander’s Church (ul. Książęca 21, H-8). The surrounding area is home to some of Warsaw’s top boutiques, including the likes of Burberry, Zegna and Escada.QH‑8, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet. ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM When on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście across from Warsaw University, head straight down ul. Traugutta and you’ll find this museum at the end of the street. Tragically overlooked by far too many visitors to Warsaw (who can’t see past World War II and communism) this is a joy of a museum that showcases and highlights all that’s best about Poland’s cultural heritage. There are costumes, handicrafts, furniture, Polish inventions, art, photographs; most of it is beautifully presented in what is a superb building. The museum is one of the city’s most active, putting on all iyp.me/polandblog

sorts of temporary exhibitions plus they organise handson events and workshops. There is also a new permanent exhibition: ‘Korean Gallery’ showing Korean culture, the showcase of which is a replica of a traditional house (Hanok). Directors of Warsaw’s other museums might want to come and take notes. Just brilliant, and unquestionably essential. The current permanent exhibits “Ordinary Extraordinary”, “Time to Celebrate Polish and European Folk Culture”, “The Order of Things” plus the latest permanent exhibition “The Pauper’s Bible: Art of the Poor and Downtrodden” can all be explored.QF‑6, ul. Kredytowa 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.ethnomuseum.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Prices for the temporary exhibition are 20/10zł. Permanent collection admission is 12/6zł, students up to 26 years of age 1zł, Thu free. U ZACHĘTA - NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART Unmissable, and so close to ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście. One of the leading galleries in Poland, with a focus on the contemporary. The Zachęta National Gallery of Art (Narodowa Galeria Sztuki) is located in the centre of Warsaw, just across from the Saxon Garden. The name of the gallery derives from the Polish word for encouragement and refers to the group that created it: Society for the Encouragement of Fine Arts (Towarzystwo Zachęty Sztuk Pięknych), created in 1860. The gallery does a fine job in bringing the best in contemporary art from the 20th and 21st century to you in a mix of temporary and permanent exhibitions.QF‑6, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art.pl. Open 12:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, Thu free. Y

FURTHER ON From Plac Trzech Krzyży (H‑8), Warsaw’s ‘royal route’ continues down the Embassy-land of Aleje Ujazdowskie past the Ujazdowskie and Łazienki Parks (I‑11), down ul. Belwederska (I‑13), ul. Sobieskiego (J‑15) and Aleja Wilanowska to ultimately end at Wilanów Palace - the 17th century private residence of King Jan III Sobieski. While a walking tour of the remaining 10km isn’t realistic, or especially rewarding, Łazienki and Wilanów are both required visits for getting a broader sense of Warsaw’s history and former glory as the grand capital of a vast and wealthy commonwealth stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea. We detail both destinations extensively further on in our Sightseeing section, and though both could occupy the better part of a day on their own, you can also easily continue your tour from the bus stop at the southern end of Pl. Trzy Krzyży. To get to Łazienki Park, simply hop on bus numbers 116, 166 or 180 and get off two stops later at ‘Łazienki Królewskie.’ For Wilanów, take bus 116, 180 or E‑2 and get off at ‘Wilanów’ 25mins later. August – September 2018 41

Chopin Poland’s greatest composer, and Warsaw’s favourite son, Fryderyk Chopin (18101849) has lent his name to everything from vodka to airports (and even an asteroid). And in the spirit of all the greats there’s a considerable element of mystery surrounding the man. Say it very, very quietly, but there’s even dispute as to his birthday and parentage. Most sources agree he was born on February 22, 1810, yet some claim his family could be found celebrating his birth on March 1. At the time of his death only Jane Stirling, his Scottish benefactor, claimed to know the truth, and this she wrote on a piece of paper before burying it with him. Furthermore, while most accept he was the son of a French expatriate some experts argue he was the bastard child of an unnamed aristocrat. The truth has been lost to time.

By all accounts he was a prodigy from the offing. The young Fryderyk started learning piano at the age of four, and by the age of eight had already performed at what is now the Presidential Palace (p.39). A diligent student he was educated at home for the first 13 years, before attending Warsaw’s Lyceum, and then the Warsaw Music Conservatory. He continued to blossom under its director, the Polish composer Joseph Elsner, who was wowed by Chopin’s musical mastery. He graduated from the Conservatory in 1829, the same year he was to meet Konstancja Gładkowska, and his unrequited love for her inspired many of his early compositions.

There’s one thing we can be certain of, however, and that’s his birthplace – the town of Żelazowa Wola 50 kilometres west of Warsaw. However, he stayed there for just a year, with the family moving to Warsaw in 1811 after his ‘father’, a man who’d fought the Russians in the Napoleonic Wars, W found a job as a French tutor.

Within three weeks of graduation he made a sparkling foreign debut in Vienna, before returning to Poland to perform the premier of his Piano Concerto in F minor. Already recognised as an amazing talent, Chopin started showing the signs of illness that would continue to blight the rest of his life. A keen traveller (on record is a tour of Europe undertaken in 1826 during which he visited Dresden, Kraków, Prague and numerous other places as a tourist), Chopin set off to play in Vienna in November 1830, following a farewell party in a Wola tavern.

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Unbeknownst to him at the time, that was to be his last taste of Warsaw. By the end of the month Poland had risen in rebellion against the ruling Russians. Choosing is to stay in exile, Chopin settled in playboy Paris where he ławas welcomed by Polish émigrés, as well as upcoming composers and high society. Drawing on his Polish upbringing, the 1830s saw Chopin enjoy an impressively productive spell, composing a series of acclaimed polonaises and mazurkas. The defining point in his life was to occur in 1837 when he met the controversial author George Sand (yes, that’s a woman). His first impression is recorded as being surprisingly acid: ‘what an unpleasant woman’, he is known to have commented. Already secretly engaged to a 17 year old Polish girl, how Chopin’s life would have evolved if he had never seen Sand again is open to speculation. Instead he embarked on a torrid nine year affair with this classic ‘scarlet woman,’ with one stage of their rocky relationship marked by a stint in an abandoned monastery on the island of Mallorca. Racked with chronic lung problems and a near permanent cough, the faltering affair spun out of control when Sand, a loose-moraled man-killer, serialised the novel Lucretia Floriani in a Paris newspaper in 1846. The boorish, asexual antihero is commonly recognised as being a parody of Chopin. Broke, ill and now broken-hearted, Chopin led an increasingly miserable and secluded life. He finally passed away in his Paris apartment aged just 39. Buried in PereLachaise cemetery in Paris, on his insistence his body was cut open (he was petrified of being buried alive) and his heart later interned in a pillar of Warsaw’s Holy Cross Church. iyp.me/warsaw

Chopin WALKING TOUR Our short Chopin Walking Tour is only 1.3 Kilomtres long and with the exception of the first two stops, largely follows the same path as the Royal Route (p.38) which leads nicely into the Old Town Walking Tour (p.34). First stop, The Fryderyk Chopin Museum. 1 FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM Touted as one of the most high tech in Europe the museum officially opened in the spring of 2010 to help mark the 200th anniversary of Chopin’s birth. Taking up four floors, the museum features an interactive style and shares the life of Chopin from start to finish leaving absolutely no detail out. So comprehensive is the collection it even features the last letter he wrote to his family and dried flowers from his deathbed. Also, of course, are several paintings and sculptures (including his death mask), and a recreation of his Paris drawing room and even an intriguing section on the women who made the man. However, what really revolutionises this museum is the way your route is conducted. Aside from an avalanche of touchscreen multimedia, the museum allows visitors to ‘adapt their trip to their particular circumstances’. Put simply, those entering can choose exactly what they want to see. Even better are the e-card tickets that can be swiped along different interactive exhibits to allow the visitor to hear music, stories or watch a film. Located in the Ostrogski Palace the structure housing the museum is something of a Warsaw landmark, and was originally designed by Tylman van Gameren. In the past it was home to a Napoleonic military hospital, and its catacombs are said to be home of the legendary Golden Duck - a princess charmed by the devil before being transformed. After your visit, at the rear of the museum, you’ll find stop no. 2 of our tour.QH‑7, ul. Okólnik 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, www.chopin.museum/pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 22/13zł, family ticket 62zł, Sun free. Number of visitors is restricted, so it is advisable to reserve tickets in advance by email or phone. Guided tours in English and Polish - 50zł, it’s always better to call in advance and arrange it. Tickets/E-cards available in English and Polish which display information on screen next to exhibit when card placed on reader. UY 2 CHOPIN MURAL Created in 2010 to mark the XVI International Chopin Piano Competition in Warsaw (The Year of Chopin, marking his birthday in 1810). The piece shows the composer in the company of people, objects and stories connected with his life - George Sand, tourists, Napoleon Bonaparte as well as the planetoid (3784 Chopin) named after him. The artwork was designed by Marcin Urbanek, although the creation of the piece was a collective effort by many artists. From here, head up the hill on ul. Tamka, right at the roundabout and follow ul. Kopernika until you reach the Copernicus Monument, and the church in front of you is the next stop. QH-7, Ul. Tamka 37.

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3 HOLY CROSS CHURCH No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw without visiting the final resting place of his heart. Added to the church in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and placed behind a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved by Leonardo Marconi. Upon exiting, turn left and continue down Krakowskie Przemieście (p.38), stopping at the Entrance to 4 Warsaw University where you’ll see a plaque stating Chopin lived here for 10 years - also, directly behind you, look up at the building to see another place he lived in before emigrating to France.QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz. pl. Open 10:00 - 11:00, 13:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No visiting during mass please (at 12:00 daily).

5 CHOPIN BENCHES Fifteen musical benches have been placed at key sites connected with his life. Designed by Professor Jerzy Porębski, they feature a button, when pressed, unleash a 30 second torrent of Chopin. Each bench provides explanations in EN/PL to the site’s relevance to Chopin. Continue towards the Old Town, sticking to the right.QG‑6, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, www.biuro.chopin2010.pl. 6 CHURCH OF THE NUNS OF THE VISITATION Visit the church that Chopin attended in his youth. Pride of place goes to the original organ which he played as a school organist. Continue onward and you’ll see the Presidential Palace where Chopin played his first public concert. Just beyond, after the monument to poet Adam Mickiewicz, is the next stop.QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 34, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 692 42 25, www.wizytki.waw.pl. Open 08:30-17:00, Sat 08:3013:45, 14:30-16:00, Sun 13:00-17:00. No visiting during mass please. 7 CHOPIN POINT WARSAW Chopin Point is situated in the building where the composer played a concert at the age of 13! After all this Chopinology, you may have an urge to listen to more of his music - here, you can. Both a cafe (10:00-18:00) and a concert venue (19:00-20:00), Chopin piano recitals take place daily at 19.00. If you wish to see more of the romanticism surrounding Chopin’s life, after the Old Town, you may wish to go to Łazienki Park, where there is a large monument dedicated to him. It is here every summer where free Chopin Piano recitals take place each Sunday. QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 62, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 601 80 83 92, www.chopinpoint. com.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Normal ticket price 60zł. Children, students and seniors 40zł. Refreshments included in all prices.

August – September 2018 43

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GAGARINA

Łazienki Anyone who still thinks that Warsaw is a city of concrete and cement has clearly never been to the city’s lung, the incomparable Łazienki Park. Quite simply, this glorious, 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of the jewels in Poland’s crown, which might explain why half of Warsaw chooses to spend its summer Sundays here. Fear not though, for so big is Łazienki that it never gives the impression of being crowded, and even on the busiest of days you will always be able to find a quiet, shady corner somewhere.

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The name Łazienki means baths and is derived from the park’s centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace on the Island. The palace was originally built in the 17th century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski, owner of the adjacent Ujazdowski Castle and much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private residence (thus taking the name Palace on the Island). It was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as a private garden, most of the landscaping being carried out to the designs of Karol Ludwig Agricola and Karol Schultz. Today dotted with many palaces (big and small), summer houses, pavilions, mansions, cafes, restaurants, lakes and theatres, Łazienki offers much to see and to make the best of it you should plan to spend a full day here. While you can buy tickets for each Łazienki attraction individually, you can also purchase a one-day ticket (45/30zł) which offers single-access to a chunk of the attractions (the Botanical Garden is not among them).

Łazienki, up until very recently, was further evidence of the fact that many Central Europeans have never quite grasped the idea of what parks are actually for. With superbly kept grass at every turn, perfect for picnics, pick up games of cricket, softball, football or whatever else it is people get up to in parks in the western world, Łazienki once took a very stern ‘look but don’t touch’ attitude when it came to its lawns. That said, the park now allows you to have a picnic on all patches of grass in the park. Finally, progress!QI‑11, go Mikke ul. Agrykoli 1, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

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CHOPIN MONUMENT & TEMPLE OF SIBYL On entering the park proper, make your first port of call the Chopin Monument, sculpted by Wacław Szymanowski and unveiled in 1926. It depicts Chopin sitting right here in Łazienki, next to a willow tree. The original sculpture was rz yn iec destroyed during WWII, and the one we admire today went up in 1958. Almost hidden in the trees a few metres from Chopin is the astonishing Temple of the Sibyl (closed to the public), an 1820s replica Greek Temple built entirely of wood. Look out too for a gaggle of other little buildings here such as the Hermitage, the Egyptian Temple and the Water Tower. None are currently open to the public. QI‑12, MPolitechnika, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. ka

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GETTING TO ŁAZIENKI Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three main entrances on Al. Ujazdowskie, including numbers 116, 166 and 180. From the city centre, however, perhaps the easiest way of reaching Łazienki is to take a tram from ‘Centrum’ to ‘Pl. Unii Lubelskiej,’ and walk 100 metres along ul. Bagatela to the park’s southern entrance, in front of the Belvedere Palace. Orientation around the park is relatively easy given the prominent placement of maps and signs - in Polish and English - in key locations. There is also a very good Łazienki complex map (again, in Polish and English) which can be picked up for free from the Palace on the Island. If you enter the park via any of the entrances on Al. Ujazdowskie, chances are you will end up, willingly or not, via some surprisingly hilly paths set with tall trees, at the vast artificial lake in the park’s centre, straddled by the magnificent Palace on the Island. In doing so however, you risk missing out on a few treasures, such as The Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship, so try to circumnavigate the park instead. While you can buy tickets for each Łazienki attraction individually, you can also purchase a one-day ticket (45/30zł) which offers single-access to a chunk of the attractions (the Botanical Garden is not among them). QH‑11, ul. Agrykoli 1. PALACE ON THE ISLAND The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison d’etre. The palace - completed in 1683 to designs by Tylman Gamerski - was originally a bathhouse, converted into a residence in the late 1700s (after being bought by Stanisław August Poniatowski). The palace is built on an artificial island that divides the lake into two parts, and is connected to the surrounding park by two colonnaded bridges. The façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors and are crowned by a balustrade that bears statues of mythological figures. The northern façade is relieved by a striking central portico, while the southern façade’s deep central recess lies behind a screen of Corinthian columns. Today a museum, almost all of the palace can be visited including the main reception room, Solomon’s Hall, decorated in the most extravagant of Baroque styles with a series of paintings depicting the History of Solomon. They were executed for King Stanisław Augustus in 1791–93 by Marcello Bacciarelli and depicted the monarch himself as the biblical king. Many of the king’s personal rooms are also open to the public, set in their original context.QI‑11, ul. Agrykola 1, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. Admission 25/18zł and comes with headphones, Thu free. Children and students up to 26 years of age pay 1zł. Y August – September 2018 45

Łazienki

Let’s experience the essence of Italy!

UJAZDOWSKI CASTLE (MUSEUM OF MODERN ART/CSW) A castle of some description has been on found on this site since the time of the Masovian Dukes (1300s), but the Ujazdowski Castle we see today was completed in a Baroque style in 1730 for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski (it was his bathhouse that later became the Palace on the Island and gave Łazienki park its name). Ujazdowski survived two centuries before being gutted by fire during WWII, and was indeed lucky to escape total destruction: the retreating Nazis actually tried to blow it to pieces, as they did a number of Łazienki’s finest buildings. But - as is so often the case - what the Nazis couldn’t do the communists could, and though the original walls and foundations remained structurally sound in the 1950s Poland’s communist authorities decided to tear down the shell of the building and place a military theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed however, and the 1970s saw Ujazdowski rebuilt to its original plans. It today plays host to several large exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing rotating exhibitions of the very best contemporary art inside; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, featuring the work of Poland’s leading contemporary artists here. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery also houses a very good bookshop and reading room where you can freely peruse a huge collection of albums, magazines and books many of which are in English. There is also a fantastic cinema on site (U-jazdowski Kino) plus a top notch restaurant and café.QI‑10, ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, www.csw. art.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free, students up to 26 years of age 1zł. UY MYŚLEWICKI PALACE When in Łazienki Park, make sure you have time for a guided tour of the magnificent, semi-circular and recently restored Myślewicki Palace. The tour lasts about 30 minutes. The palace was the official residence of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski, and is very much ‘as was’ - complete with original murals, furniture and art.QJ‑11, ul. Agrykola 1, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł. Thu free. Guided tours in English 100zł per group. Children and students up to 26 years of age pay just 1zł. Y

PIAZZA RISTORANTE

Plac Unii City Shopping l 2 Puławska Str. 02-566 Warsaw l +48 22 204 04 83 piazzaristorante

46 Warsaw In Your Pocket

MUSEUM OF HUNTING & HORSEMANSHIP Very much as advertised, this museum will appeal to any avid horse enthusiast.QJ‑12, ul. Szwoleżerów 9, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 522 66 30, www. muzeum.warszawa.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5zł. Thu free. Children and students up to 26 years of age pay 1zł. Y iyp.me/warsaw

Wilanów

Spring has sprung at Wilanów Palace and Park | © Courtesy of The Wilanów Palace Museum, photo by Wojciech Holnicki

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The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century palace which can be found in the Warsaw district of Wilanów, 10km south of the city centre. Essential visiting for all who come to soak up the capital’s lavish culture and wish to understand a little more about ancient Poland, Wilanów is more than just a palace – it represents an era from which much has been lost. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings represent the height of Polish Baroque and this is one of Poland’s greatest national treasures.The sprawling 45-hectare setting is also full of things to do, from visiting the superb Poster Museum next door to renting a rowboat on the palace’s lake. If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend an entire and thoroughly rewarding day here.

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It is very easy to visit Warsaw and imagine its history stretches no further back than the post-war communist era and before that to WWII, when the city was effectively wiped from the map of Europe. But that would be to only understand a small part of this city’s history. The nation’s capital has been in Warsaw since the late 16th century and at one time was the centre of the burgeoning PolishLithuanian Commonwealth, a union which lasted over 200 years and whose territory at once stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea (incorporating much of modern day Poland, Ukraine, Belarus and the Baltic States). With so much of pre-war Warsaw destroyed there are few places to experience what this must have been like more than at Wilanow’s palace and gardens.

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August – September 2018 47

Wilanów HISTORY

THE WILANÓW PALACE MUSEUM

Photo by W. Holnicki

The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the palace’s interior, comes in two parts. Having bought your ticket, enter the wing on the right and descend the stairs. Head through a small room, up the stairs into the first part of the museum The Polish Portrait Gallery. Wander through room after room of portraits of the rich and the powerful from the 16-19th century. If portraits are your thing you will find this very interesting, though the lack of descriptions is frustrating. The tour leads you around the upper level of the house, however, during winter and well into 2018, this will be closed for renovation. Downstairs you will find yourself in the Wilanów Palace Residence. Featuring residential rooms, suits of armour, Etruscan vases, magnificent frescoes and even a private chapel. The central part of the lower floor is the most impressive. It is here that you will find the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife, while the wings house the apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace. It is quite easy to spend a couple of hours wandering around the palace but be warned that it tends to fill with schoolchildren during the week and tourists at the weekends so there’s not really a best time to visit during the school year. The gardens are open 09:00-21:00 in August and 09:0019:00 in September. For all the latest information on permanent/temporary exhibitions, visit the Wilanów Palace website.QP‑2, ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow-palac.art.pl. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Tue, Thu, Fri 09:30 - 16:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 20/15zł, Thu free, but you must obtain an obligatory ticket. Audioguide (available in Chinese, English, French, German, Italian, Russian and Spanish) 10zł. Tickets can be purchased online. UY 48 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Wilanów gets its name from the Warsaw borough in which Wilanów Palace is located. First mentioned in the 13th century as Milanów, the then tiny village changed hands several times before being bought in the 17th century by the family of Stanisław Leszczyński. Leszczyński began building a palace here, but the project was halted by the Deluge and the subsequent capture and plundering of the region by the Swedes. In 1676 the abandoned Milanów was bought by King Jan III Sobieski looking for a country retreat away from Warsaw, and he ordered a new palace to be built on the site. Originally called ‘Villa Nova’ (New Village), the name was soon polonised to the one it’s known by today. A brick manor house was built in 1680, expanding in two stages into a palace during the years 1681-1696 under the supervision of Agostino Locci to his own design. After Jan III Sobieski’s death in 1696, his widow returned to France and the palace, through their sons, became the property of Elżbieta Sieniawska who continued to develop the palace. Sieniawska, like many of the subsequent owners, honoured Sobieski by conserving much of the palace in memory of the victorious king. It was to become a royal residence again in the early 1730s during the reign of August II the Strong. Over the next two hundred years the palace became the property of a succession of the most important Polish families including the Czartoryskis, Lubomirskis, Potockis and Branickis, and each left their mark as they expanded and developed the property. One of its most enlightened residents was Stanislaw Kostka Potocki who in the early 19th century made his collection of art and access to the royal apartments of King Jan III Sobieski available to the public. Keep an eye out for the words ‘Cunctis patet ingressus’ on the palace floor signifying that the palace and its collection were ‘open to all.’ The palace avoided the fate of the city of Warsaw and survived the war virtually intact, though its collections were seriously looted. Confiscated by Poland’s postwar Communist government, Wilanów became part of the National Museum in Warsaw and was painstakingly renovated during the 1950s and early 1960s, opening its doors to the public again in 1962. WILANÓW PARK & GARDENS The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park grew over the centuries according to the particular fancies of its owners. The park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s, overseen by

Photo by W. Holnicki

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Wilanów the architect and historian Professor Gerard Ciołek (19091966). Made up of a series of individual gardens, the park includes a two-level Baroque garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscaped park and the so called English-Chinese landscape park. The park near the Orangery, East, North and Rose gardens and their associated architecture were recently the subject of a major revitalisation program and during work on the Baroque garden a series of archaeological digs discovered several artefacts, including ceramics dating from the 12th century. Now the gardens have been restored to their appearance during the time of King Jan III Sobieski.Qul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16. Open 09:00 - 22:00. In August open 09:00 - 21:00. In September open 09:00 19:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 5/3zł, Thu free. Note that an obligatory 0zł ticket is still required on Thursdays. Really. Y POSTER MUSEUM Housed inside the Wilanów Palace’s former indoor riding area, the Poster Museum features two large halls full of wonderful posters from all over the world. At over 55,000 pieces, this is reportedly the largest poster collection to be found anywhere. The museum focuses on the artistic merits of the posters rather than their documentary value and plays host to a cycle of temporary events and exhibitions. Qul. S. K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.postermuseum.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Mon 12:00 - 16:00, Wed, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 11/8zł, Mon free.

GETTING TO WILANÓW The Palace and Gardens at Wilanów can be reached best of all by bus or taxi directly from the city centre. The city’s metro system does run to a stop called ‘Wilanowska’ but this is about 5km from the palace and will involve taking a bus (139, 710 or 724) from outside of the station. All buses stop directly outside the palace gates at the ‘Wilanów’ stop. BY BUS From the Old Town/Plac Zamkowy/Nowy Świat (F4), Pl. Trzech Krzyży (H-8) and Łazienki Park (H-11): Take buses 116 or 180; journey takes 25-35 minutes. From the centre (F-8): Take bus 519 or 700 from Warszawa Centralna train station, or 519 from outside the Cepelia store on ul. Marszałkowska 99, next to the roundabout. BY TAXI Costing 35-40zł with a recommended company such as Sawa Taxi (tel. 22 644 44 44), a taxi ride to Wilanów is something of a false economy, taking more or less the same time as the bus to get there. If you prefer the comfort and privacy of your own car then also look for ELE taxis parked around the city.Qul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16. iyp.me/polandblog

August – September 2018 49

Praga

Praga is full of street murals (p.8), like this funky goose on ul. Brzeska 14A (J-3).

Gritty. Bo-ho. There are a lot of terms being tossed around to describe Praga, the eastern district of Warsaw that hugs the Vistula River, and they’re all fairly apt. Praga was regarded as off-limits to Western visitors thanks to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks, but a revival of sorts now makes this section of town worthy of emphasising – especially if you prefer to see the city’s artsy underbelly and get away from the well-trodden tourist path in Old Town from where you see the towers of Sts. Michael & Florian Cathedral and the rounded dome of the Orthodox Cathedral of St. Mary Magdalene. The area is still years away from being hipster-soaked Brooklyn or boho Montmartre, but that’s exactly why now is the time to go: a visit will mean you can say you saw the evolution in progress, before gentrification engulfs the area. In practise, and geographically, Praga has always been set apart from Warsaw proper. Until 1791 the district was its own separate town and the inability to build a permanent bridge between Praga and Warsaw until the mid-18th century surely proved a factor in the separatism (ferries in the summer and a stroll across the iced-over Vistula in the winter were the main option for transit in the pre-bridge days). Finally in 1791 King Stanislaw August Poniatowski attached the district officially to Warsaw, dissolving it of its independence (at least on paper). Praga wasn’t given much time to enjoy its new status as part of Warsaw thanks to the The Battle of Praga in 1794, which saw an aggressive invasion by the Russian army. Following the quick but devastating battle the Russians burned the entire district and massacred the 20,000 Poles living there. During World War II Praga wasn’t quite as 50 Warsaw In Your Pocket

devastated as left-bank Warsaw (which isn’t really saying much if you’ve seen the condition Warsaw was left in). The Russians, again, arrived in Praga in July 1944 and stopped at the Vistula, famously leaving the Polish Home Army dangling during the Warsaw Uprising. Today working-class Praga is the standard-bearer for cool, especially among those who find the tourist-heavy Old Town too Disneyfied and the sterile clubs of Warsaw proper as distasteful. Folks here prefer their bars dark and their fun improvised, and visitors can easily spend a day checking out the attractions, like street art murals and an evening enjoying the often impressive beer selection. PRASKI PARK BEARS Strangely enough, bears have been living on the concrete island in Praski Park since 1949; over 400 have been reared here before being packed off to zoos, safari parks and circuses around the globe. Although the bears look rather sleepy they can still pack a punch. Several years ago a drunken idiot was savaged after jumping into the enclosure. The three current well-rested residents are called Tatra, Mała and Sabina.QI‑3, Praski Park (entrance from Al. Solidarności), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41. PRAGA DISTRICT MUSEUM At long last the museum of Warsaw’s Praga District has finally opened to much fanfare. Located in the heart of Praga this relatively small museum has struck just the right chord with its interesting and impressive permanent exhibition, which not only covers the complex history of Warsaw’s right bank settlements over the years, but also captures iyp.me/warsaw

Praga the colourful district in several interactive multimedia exhibits. We recommend exploring every corner of this great museum and it will inevitably encourage you to head out the door and explore Praga itself. For more info about the museum, events and upcoming exhibitions log onto their website.QJ‑3, ul. Targowa 50/52, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 518 34 30, www.muzeumpragi. pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission for both permanent and temporary exhibitions 15/10zł, permanent alone 10/7zł, temporary exhibitions 5/3zł. Thu free. UY UL. ZĄBKOWSKA Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated than ulica Ząbkowska, the natural gravitational point for all the Boho and artistic types who have recently materialised to upgrade the district. Originally lined with timber frame houses, Ząbkowska experienced a fierce blaze in 1868 that led to wooden lodgings being replaced with tall tenements, all but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street hard, with Ząbkowska allowed to fall into such disrepair that plans for wholesale demolition were seriously considered. However it survived, and today restoration work has seen many of buildings returned to their former glory, or currently undergoing redevelopment (Koneser Factory), streets repaved and galleries opened. For some the very name Ząbkowska is synonymous with lively bars (W Oparach Absurdu, Łysy Pingwin etc.) filled with student revolutionaries.QJ‑3, ul. Ząbkowska, MDworzec Wileński. PGE NATIONAL STADIUM Officially opened on January 29th, 2012, PGE Narodowy (formerly the National Stadium) can hold 58,000 fans, and is one of the most popular places in PL - visited by 140,000 people each month. The construction, with its red and white covering, was built using hundreds of 45-metre support pillars driven into the ground to stabilise the 25 metres of war rubble the stadium finds itself atop. Priced at 1.2 billion PLN, history buffs will note that the Socialist era ‘Relay’ statue at the entrance has been preserved in a nod to the site’s past heritage – it was here that the Stadion Dziesięciolecia (10th Anniversary Stadium) stood, built in

Praga District museum

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ZOO

If the bears piqued your interest in animals then head to the nearby Warsaw Zoo, which was opened in 1928 and covers an area of 40 hectares. More than 500 species (over 12,000 animals) call it home and that includes all the biggies you’d expect: lions, gorillas, giraffes and elephants to name a few. As with every major Warsaw landmark, the zoo has plenty of war stories. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during the 1944 Uprising, Żabiński helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo. The zoo officially re-opened in 1949.QH‑3, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 30/20zł. Family tickets available.

GETTING TO PRAGA BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT: By far the easiest way to get to Praga is to take the M2 Metro to the end of the line (Dworzec Wileński), and you’re in the heart of the district. From Warszawa Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the river and drop you at the Park Praski stop, a great place to begin your tour of Praga (you can nod at the bears as you disembark). If you’re in the Old Town simply walk down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarności and the Stare Miasto bus stop and buses 160, 190 and 527 head over the river to Park Praski as well. These same buses will return you to Stare Miasto as well. Trams 23 and 26 will get you to Praga and back from the Old Town area. BY TAXI: You can also take a taxi which should cost around 20-30zł and should take you from the centre area to Ząbkowska in less than 20 minutes. Please remember that the price and time depends on the traffic, so your journey may be longer during rush hours.QI‑3. August – September 2018 51

Praga NEON MUSEUM

Ilona Karwińska

A brilliantly illuminating (ha!) private initiative by Londonbased photographer Ilona Karwińska and graphic designer David S. Hill to salvage Poland’s culturally significant neon signs of the 1960’s-70’s from the dustbin of history. During the post-Stalin years these neons were seen as symbols of economic success and the strive towards a more open and culturally relaxed society. The glowing signs, designed by some of Poland’s top architects and designers, advertised products, cinemas, dancehalls, restaurants and cocktail bars and also served as local landmarks. The post-communist years saw a scant disregard for anything connected to that era, many buildings were demolished and the beautiful neons were simply tossed into skips or left in states of disrepair to rot away. Luckily, Karwińska and Hill saw the significance of these artefacts and have managed to save over 200 neons and around 500 letterforms from certain destruction. The museum is also home to a huge archive of documentation, blueprints, photographs and original plans relating to the history of these signs. Housed in the super cool Soho Factory complex, the museum is certainly a one of a kind experience and well worth a visit for anyone interested in design history and Poland’s past. Remember to keep your eye out for some of the remaining old neons which are still ‘in-situ’ around Warsaw - for example the brilliant ‘Netball Player’ on Plac Konstytucji or the ‘Dancing’ sign on Nowy Świat.QM‑4, ul. Mińska 25, Soho Factory, Building 55, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 665 71 16 35, www.neonmuzeum.org. Open 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 12/10zł. U

52 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Mat Fahrenholz

the 1950s to mark the anniversary of the end of WWII. This was also the site where, on September 8, 1968, in front of 100,000 people, Ryszard Siwiec set himself alight in protest of the Soviet-led invasion of Czechoslovakia. Today, Warsaw’s National Stadium is an exceptional place to watch football, or one of the mega-concerts frequently held here. Guided tours of the stadium run 7 days a week, Mon-Fri from 10:00-20:00 and Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00 every 30 mins (in Polish). English tours conducted 3 times a day during the week, once a day on Sat/Sun. French, German, Spanish tours take place once a week, and Italian and Russian tours twice a week, all on Saturdays (German on Sunday). A number of tours are available, including the ‘Exclusive Tour’ which gives you access to the public spaces as well as players’ only zones and VIP areas. All tour info can be found on their website https://wycieczki. pgenarodowy.pl. The stadium is approximately 3km from the Warsaw Central train station along Al. Jerozolimskie and can be reached quickly and easily either by train, tram, bus or taxi.QK‑6, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 22 295 90 00, www.pgenarodowy.pl.

Street Art is big in Praga - angel statues and murals on ul. Ząbkowska

SASKA KĘPA - UL. FRANCUSKA Saska Kępa is one of the most desirable districts of Warsaw; with property prices staunchly high, the neighbourhood has become home to the nouveaux riche, the intelligentsia and much of the capital’s art community. Now living in the shadow of the National Stadium, the sporting complex has actually played a major role in bringing sports fans, arena rock fans and other new visitors to the area. The focal point of the area is ul. Francuska, with its host of trendy bars, cafes, restaurants and mix of boutique and old-school shops - Saska Kępa is is as close as Warsaw gets to some of the ‘Little Village’ areas of London or Paris. As such it’s a great place to just wander around, people watch or marvel at the hotchpotch of architectural styles - including majestic 19th century manor houses, some superb examples of 1920s and ‘30s modernism, Cold War tower blocks and brand new ultra-modern developments.QL‑6/7/8, ul. Francuska, MDworzec Wileński. iyp.me/warsaw

Jewish Warsaw

One of the amazing exhibits in Polin (p.55)

At the time Hitler chose to expand Germany’s territories under the odious excuse of providing ‘living space’ for the German people, Warsaw’s Jewish population numbered 350,000 and growing. Neither pogroms nor the occasional boycott of Jewish businesses deterred Jews from settling in the Polish capital and only New York could boast a larger Jewish community. Yet within six years Warsaw’s thriving Jewish scene was all but wiped from the map, with over 90 percent perishing either in the Warsaw Ghetto or the gas chambers of Treblinka. Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare, Poland was seen as a relative safe haven, and it drew settlers forced into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war years the Jewish population had made significant contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland, a contribution that would eventually be extinguished by the monstrous racial policies of the Nazis. When Warsaw fell following a brief yet brutal siege the city’s ancient Jewish population was damned to destruction. By 1940 Jews were forcibly penned into an area that already housed most of the Jewish population. On March 27, 1940, the Judenrat - a Jewish council answerable to the Nazi’s whims, was ordered to build a wall around the ghetto and a resettlement deadline of October 15 was handed to the city’s Jews. Failure to move into the assigned area was punishable by death. Spanning 18 kilometres and enclosing 73 of Warsaw’s 1,800 streets, the area was iyp.me/polandblog

carved into a ‘small’ and ‘large’ ghetto, the two linked by a wooden bridge standing over ul. Chłodna (C-6/7). Today an installation titled ‘Footbridge of Memory’ stands at this spot, with optical fibres illuminating the former handrails over the street at night. From the beginning conditions in the Warsaw Ghetto were harsh; recovered Nazi files show that while ethnic Germans in Warsaw were granted a food allowance totaling 2,613 calories per day, Jews and other groups deemed ‘sub-human’ were expected to survive on 184 calories. Unsurprisingly a black market supported by a smuggling network ran rife, with some 80 percent of the food in the ghetto supplied through illegal means. Still it was not enough and as the

Collection of Shalom Foundation by Gołda Tencer - Szurmiej

August – September 2018 53

Jewish Warsaw

The breathtaking POLIN museum entryway

noose tightened starvation became the principal enemy. In 1941 over 100,000 died in this way, their bodies often left to rot in the streets. Of the 800 ghettos scattered around the Third Reich, Warsaw was the largest and also the deadliest. At its zenith approximately 380,000 residents found themselves squashed into the ghetto, with an average of eight people to a room. Yet amid this sea of suffering a remarkable social scene flourished, as proved by the meticulous ghetto diaries kept by Emanuel Ringelblum. Although murdered by the Nazis in 1944, Ringelblum, an intellectual and social activist, kept volumes of notes documenting the day-to-day life of ghetto inhabitants. It is from his painstaking notes we learn of the soup kitchens and charities that existed, of the musical concerts and cabarets and the fifty or so underground newspapers that circulated amongst the masses. The illusion of a self-contained, cruel, but surviving parallel world was shattered in 1942 when the Wansee Conference rubber-stamped plans for the ‘final solution to the Jewish question’ and the first deportations to death camps began in July. Over the next few weeks around 265,000 Jews were harried to a waiting area known as Umschlagplatz (C-3), from which they were loaded into cattle wagons destined for the Treblinka gas chambers. A year later a new action to thin the ghetto was launched, and by April 1943 a final push to completely liquidate the biggest ghetto began. For too long the Jews had been limited to passive resistance, but now, with rumours circulating about death camps, a band of ill-equipped insurgents faced up to the full weight of the Nazi military machine. The Jewish Fighting Organisation (ŻOB) launched the Ghetto Uprising on April 19, 1943. Numbering a few hundred the Jewish fighters continued their dogged resistance, but faced with superior weaponry, it was a doomed struggle. By May 16 the Uprising was over, the rest of the ghetto was levelled, and its inmates deported. It is estimated that some 15,000 Jews survived the war hiding out on the Aryan side. Today Warsaw’s Jewish population is estimated to stand only at around 2,000, however large efforts have been put into honouring the city’s Jewish heritage and reintroducing Jewish culture - most notably the opening of the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews in 2014. Here we list some places worth visiting. 54 Warsaw In Your Pocket

JEWISH HISTORICAL INSTITUTE A chilling recollection of Polish Jewry and one of the few institutions in Poland focusing entirely on the study of the history and culture of the Polish Jews (Polin now being the best known). This amazing building (which survived the war, but still bears the scars of wartime) houses temporary exhibits relating to secular and religious Jewish life in the country from its beginnings to the annihilation during WWII and beyond. As well as an excellent bookshop, the institute’s museum, opened in 1948, features a particularly moving new permanent exhibition titled ‘What we were unable to shout out to the world’, dedicated to the underground archive of the Warsaw Ghetto and its creators, the Oneg Shabbat group, telling the struggles of those who experienced the holocaust, but ultimately knew they may perish. This is their record. A must see. QE‑5, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Tickets only purchaseable on their website (above). Admission 12/7zł. Sun free. ENG Guided tours cost 30zł, PL 20zł, and are twice a day: ENG tour at 11:00 and PL tour at 14:00. NOŻYK SYNAGOGUE Built between 1898 and 1902 in a neo-Romanesque style, this was the only Warsaw synagogue to survive the ravages of war. It was fully restored between 1977 and 1983, and is still used by Warsaw’s Jewish community today.QE‑7, ul. Twarda 6, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 502 40 08 49, www. warszawa.jewish.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 17:00. Closed Sat. No visiting during services. Admission 10zł. N OKOPOWA STREET JEWISH CEMETERY A beautiful and poignant place to visit. The cemetery was originally founded in 1806 and currently houses around 250,000 tombs. Amongst those buried here are Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto.QB‑5, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.cemetery.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission 10zł. N

Plac Grzybowski

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Jewish Warsaw POLIN

Nożyk Synagouge

Tomislav Medak, CC BY 2.0

PLAC GRZYBOWSKI This delightful square connects the city’s past to its present and unites the worlds of commerce, religion, entertainment and art. The main attraction of the square is the large 19th century Renaissance All Saints’ Church that stands at one end of the square. The church was heavily damaged during the start of WWII and later in 1941 was inside the Warsaw Ghetto. During the first year of the Ghetto it remained operational and served the Christian Jews who lived within the Ghetto wall. The Parish Priest Fr. Monsignor Marceli Godlewski actually helped to house Jews in the parish rectory and even assisted several Jews to escape the Ghetto entirely. The church was almost destroyed again during the Warsaw Uprising. It was eventually rebuilt after the war only to be surrounded by tall buildings on almost all sides. This was more an ideological move than an architectural one as the Communist regime attempted to hide the iconic church and diminish its power. Hence the triangular square’s exceedingly eclectic architecture. The square was totally renovated and features dozens of benches, neatly landscaped grassy areas and even a pond with a waterfall. It is very well lit at night as well so you can come visit the many pubs bars and cafes that line the square any time day or night. Joining the square is ul. Próżna, the only full street that survived the Jewish Ghetto. For a long time, it remained derelict, a window onto the past, however, in recent years, one side has undergone renovation, restored to its pre-war splendour, while the second side awaits revival. It is here that the former heart of the Jewish area of Warsaw undergoes a mini-revival in the form of the Singer Jewish Culture Festival, which has taken place every year in late August/early September since 2004.QE‑7, MŚwiętokrzyska. iyp.me/polandblog

A millennium of Polish Jewish history is explained in this excellent museum which opened on 28th October, 2014 following many years of planning and in less then a year and a half it won the prestigious award for European Museum of the Year in April 2016! Located in the Muranów district, home to a large Jewish community in the interwar period, this is where the Warsaw Ghetto stood during World War II. Note the almost total absence of any pre-war buildings in the surrounding district. The building itself is a stunning new copper and glass structure designed by Finnish architect Rainer Mahlamäki. Each of the eight galleries addresses a different era in the long history of the Jewish people beginning in the forests of the Poland of King Mieszko (960-992), where legend has it that the first Jews decided to settle. The exhibition goes on to chart the arrival of the first Jewish diplomats and traders, through periods where Jews enjoyed social and religious freedoms and protection not bestowed upon them elsewhere in Europe, to the calamitous events of the 20th century which saw the Polish Jews nearly wiped out. Covering over 4,000 square metres, the exhibition is well laid out and includes clear English language descriptions. Visit at your own leisure - in which case we recommend taking one of the audio guides available at the ticket desk, or join one of the regular guided tours. The exhibition is truly enlightening, both about the history of the Jewish people and their Christian neighbours and also the history of the Polish state during the last 1,000 years. While the period of the Holocaust is described very well and will leave you shocked regardless of your prior knowledge on the subject, for the most part the museum’s permanent exhibition is a celebration of a thousand years of Jewish life in the Kingdom and later Republic of Poland. Give yourself a few hours to be able to fully explore the various galleries. The museum is also home to a canteen-style kosher restaurant, a café and a Resource Center that features a specialist library dedicated to the history, culture and religion of Polish Jews plus a collection of historical maps of the Second Polish Republic, including street plans. POLIN is extremely active with a rich cultural program, including temporary exhibitions, concerts, debates, films, lectures and workshops and is helping to promote a new positive dialogue in Poland.QD‑4, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue, Last entrance to the permanent exhibition is 2 hours before closing. Permanent exhibition: 25/15zł, Temporary exhibition: 12/8zł and combined ticket for 30/20zł. Thu free. All tickets can be purchased on www.bilety. polin.pl. UY August – September 2018 55

Jewish Warsaw during World War II If you are in Warsaw during April/May, you will be here during the 75th anniversary of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising. Throughout the city, official commemorations will be held, there will be discussions in the media about the historical importance of the event, but most importantly, there will be symbols of remembrance dotted around the city that citizens of the world can visit and pay respect to the people that perished on the streets of Warsaw. The Warsaw Ghetto Uprising of 1943, although inevitably destined to fail, has gone down in history as an act of defiance, an act of protest against the inaction of the world in helping the Jewish people in their plight during the Second World War. This was their time to fight. And so it was to be that from 19 April to 16 May 1943, following years of torment, the fighters of the Warsaw Ghetto rose up, vastly outmatched by the superior numbers and weaponry of the German war machine. The fighters had a simple choice: go quietly and die anyway, facing extermination in a camp, or die fighting, defying the barbaric system which had spread across Europe. In 1942 there came a tipping point in the until-then passive resistance of Jewish people, as they were moved from ghetto to ghetto, camp to camp, under the pretences of resettlement or being made to work. Some believed resettlement was taking place, others that they were needed as labour for the German war effort, others simply accepted they could do nothing to get away. But by now word was spreading, initially through rumours, then from witness accounts, that Jews were being exterminated in camps. Between July and September of 1942 alone, around 280,000 Jews were deported from the Warsaw Ghetto to Treblinka extermination camp, another 11,000 were sent to labour camps, and around 10,000 were killed in the ghetto itself during the deportation process. On 28 July 1942, amidst deportations, members of Jewish youth organisations formed the Jewish Fighting Organisation (ŻOB - Żydowska Organizacja Bojowa), with a young Mordechai Anielewicz appointed as its leader. The first act of defiance actually took place on 18 January 1943, prior to the uprising itself, which saw fighters armed with pistols infiltrate a column of Jews being marched to the Umschlagplatz by German escorts. They attacked the Germans, which allowed people to scatter. Of the planned 8,000 deportations, 3,000 were prevented from taking place as the Germans suspended further deportations until further notice. There now remained around 50,000 Jews in the ghetto. They knew what was to come, and so they built bunkers wherever they could. The fighters were buoyed by the apparent success of the January action, however, when the Germans planned to liquidate the ghetto on 19 April 1943, they came much better prepared with tanks and heavy artillery. This did not prevent the Germans from receiving a nasty surprise, however, as they entered to find the streets deserted (everyone hiding in bunkers) and the fighters, armed with pistols, grenades, 56 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Resettlement of Jews to the Warsaw Ghetto

and some automatic weapons and rifles, attacked. Numbering only around 700 fighters, the Germans were stunned on the first day of fighting, losing 12 men while the rest were forced to retreat beyond the walls of the ghetto. The fighters continued their dogged resistance, and though the Germans quickly broke the military organisation of the Jewish fighters, pockets of resistance couldn’t be easily dealt with, so the Germans began to use heavy artillery and even Stuka dive bombers. It was a doomed struggle. Vicious street-to-street, house-tohouse battles ensued, with insurgents often burnt out of their boltholes by flamethrowers and gas. On 8 May, German forces surrounded the principal command post of the rebels on ul. Miła 18 and though some did escape, rather than face capture, Anielewicz and his cabal opted for mass suicide. By 16 May the Uprising was over, with German commander Jurgen Stroop announcing, “The former Jewish quarter of Warsaw is no longer in existence.” With the fighting over, the rest of the ghetto was levelled, and its inmates either sent to Treblinka or assigned to Gęsiówka (ul. Gęsia), a small concentration camp nearby. As a final, symbolic act of Jewish Warsaw’s demise, the Germans blew up the Great Synagogue on ul. Tłomackie. It is estimated 7,000 Jews and roughly 300 Germans were killed during the Ghetto Uprising. The survivors of the Ghetto liquidation, some 42,000, were transported to the Majdanek concentration camp near Lublin. Very little remains of the former ghetto today, however, to give you an idea of scale, the area consisted of 1/3 the size of the city of Warsaw (mainly the Mirów/Muranów and Wola districts, plus parts of the city centre). Despite the destruction, small parts of the ghetto remain, from buildings that somehow survived destruction and even fragments of the ghetto wall. A FOOTBRIDGE OF MEMORY One of the most recognisable images of the Warsaw Ghetto is that of the footbridge constructed over ul. Chłodna to connect the large and small ghettos. To commemorate that spot is one of Warsaw’s newest memorials: a pair of metal poles connected via optical fibres which, after the sun sets, project the shape of the footbridge over the road iyp.me/warsaw

Jewish Warsaw during World War II via light. Designed by Tomasz de Tusch-Lec and installed in September 2011, the memorial also has viewing windows inside the poles where visitors can flip through images of life in the Warsaw Ghetto. By now you’ve also probably noticed the pavement outline that symbolises the ghetto’s borders, which can be found on the sidewalk as you tromp down ul. Chłodna.QC‑6, Intersection of ul. Chłodna and ul. Żelazna, MRondo ONZ. GHETTO HEROES MONUMENT In the middle of a large, attractive square beside the POLIN Museum, you’ll find the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes, which commemorates the first Warsaw Ghetto Uprising of 1943. Designed by Leon Suzin and sculpted by Nathan Rapoport in 1948, close by stands an earlier memorial tablet to the Ghetto Heroes, also by Suzin, which was unveiled in 1946. Interestingly, stone used in the monument had been brought to Warsaw by the Nazis and was to be used in architectural projects planned for a new Warsaw by Hitler’s architect, Albert Speer. In the square, you’ll also find a statue of Jan Karski, a Polish resistance fighter famed for informing the allies about the existence of Nazi death camps and the systematic destruction of the Warsaw Ghetto.QD‑4, ul. Zamenhofa, MRatusz Arsenał. JEWISH GHETTO WALL FRAGMENT Following the Ghetto Uprising the whole area was levelled so few traces remain. If you duck into the courtyard at ul. Sienna 55 (or from ul. Złota 62) you will see a remaining part of the ghetto wall complete with a commemorative plaque. Somewhat impressively, the local government have decided to honour Warsaw’s Holocaust history by introducing a ‘Ghetto Trail.’ Developed with the help of the Jewish Historical Institute the route has seen the boundary of the former Warsaw Ghetto outlined on pavements, as well as the appearance of 21 dual language information boards positioned in places of particular interest.QD‑8, ul. Sienna 55, MRondo ONZ. MEMORIAL TO THE EVACUATION OF WARSAW GHETTO FIGHTERS Unveiled in 2010, this monument is located on ul. Prosta 51, right next to the sewer entrance where a group of around 50 fighters from the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising escaped

ul. Waliców 14 - Ghetto Remnant

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on 10 May 1943 when ordered to get out of the ghetto by the leaders of the Jewish Combat Organisation. On 01 May, Symcha Ratajzer-Rotem (codename ‘Kazik’) was ordered to get to the ‘Aryan’ side of the wall and make contact with one of the leaders of the Uprising, Yitzhak Zuckerman, who would help in aiding the evacuation of fighters from the ghetto. Kazik returned to the ghetto on the night of 08 May to aid the escape of fighters from the bunker HQ at ul. Miła 18. The escape could not happen immediately, as German patrols were above, however, on 10 May, many of the fighters exited the sewer and into a waiting truck which took them to the outskirts of Warsaw in the direction of Łomianki. Most of the fighters would later go on to fight in the Warsaw Uprising of 1944 in the ranks of the partisan People’s Army (Armia Ludowa). Some of those to escape the ghetto on this day were Cywia Lubetkin, Tosia Altman, Michał Rozenfeld and Marek Edelman.QC‑8, ul. Prosta 51, MRondo Daszyńskiego. MIŁA 18 BUNKER A grass mound and monument now marks the spot from where the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising was lead by the Jewish Combat Organisation, and where many of its fighters, including commander-in-chief Mordechai Anielewicz, are buried. Three weeks after the start of the uprising, the bunker was discovered by the Nazis on 08 May and tear gas was used to try and force the fighting command out. Some did escape, however, the majority chose to commit suicide by ingesting poison rather than surrender. Their bodies were never exhumed after 1945 and the site became a war memorial. Due to post-war changes in Warsaw’s urban landscape, the current site no longer holds the address ‘Miła 18’ and can now be found on the corner of ul. Miła 2 and ul. Dubois.QD‑3, ul. Miła 2. RUINS OF THE RISING Between 1939 and 1944 85% of left-bank Warsaw was completely destroyed, with the city centre bearing the brunt of the damage. In spite of the Herculean rebuilding work that has since taken place, bullet scarred walls on pre-war tenements can still be found in relative abundance round the few parts of the centre that escaped total destruction. Perhaps most obvious of all is the building at ul. Waliców 14, which was part of the Warsaw Ghetto, featuring shell-pocked facades and a wall half-tumbling down. Amazingly, this building survived the invasion of September 1939, The Warsaw Ghetto Uprising of 1943 and the Warsaw Uprising of 1944 (when it took a hit during an air raid). Directly across the street from the building is one of the few remaining pieces of the Ghetto wall, marked by a plaque.QD‑7, ul. Waliców 14, MRondo ONZ. UMSCHLAGPLATZ Found on ul. Stawki, close to the intersection with ul. Dzika, Umschlagplatz is a bleak, slightly disappointing monument marking the spot where around 300,000 Jews were loaded on cattle wagons bound for Treblinka. The Nazi commandant in charge of the deportations lived directly opposite on ul. Stawki 5/7.QC‑3, MDworzec Gdański. August – September 2018 57

Warsaw Uprising

Considering the epic scale of the bloodshed, and how brutal Hitler’s tactics were in subjugating and eliminating each and every ethnic group, it’s little surprise Poland gave birth to Europe’s largest resistance movement. By July 1944 the Red Army led by Marshal Rokossovsky had reached the Wisła, and on July 22 Nazi Governor of Warsaw Ludwig Fischer ordered the evacuation of German civilians from Warsaw; sensitive papers were torched and destroyed, trains screeched westwards and all the signs suggested liberation was but days away. German intelligence was aware that an uprising was possible, yet nothing seemed clear cut. Fischer’s appeals for 100,000 Poles to present themselves to work on anti-tank defences were ignored, as were broadcasts reminding the Poles of their heroic battle against Bolshevism in 1923. Tensions increased with Red Army leaflet drops urging Varsovians to arms, and were further exacerbated on July 30th with a Soviet radio announcement declaring, “People of the capital! To arms! Strike at the Germans! May your million strong population become a million soldiers, who will drive out the German invaders and win freedom.” Still, like boxers prowling the ring, each side appeared locked in a waiting game, so much so that German military dispatches on the afternoon of August 1, 1944 concluded with, “Warschau ist kalm.” Warsaw was anything but. On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski 5pm signalled W-Hour (‘Wybuch’ standing for outbreak), the precise time when some 40,000 members of the Home Army would attack key German positions. Warsaw at the time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any numerical supremacy the Poles could count on was offset by a chronic lack of weapons. Nonetheless the element of surprise caught the Germans off guard, and in spite of heavy losses the Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the Old Town, Prudential Tower (then the tallest building in Poland), and the post office. The first day cost the lives of 2,000 Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag fluttered once more over the capital. Hitler, meanwhile, was roused out of his torpor, screaming for “No prisoners to be taken,” and “Every inhabitant to be shot.” 58 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Within days German reinforcements started pouring in, and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. It was to prove a mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, behind the barricades, cultural life thrived – over 130 newspapers sprang up, religious services were celebrated and a scoutrun postal service was introduced. Better still, the first allied airdrops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under the command of Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks. Even worse, the practice of using Polish women as human shields was quickly introduced. The insurgents were a mixed bag, featuring over 4,000 women in their ranks, a unit of Slovaks, scores of Jews liberated from a Warsaw concentration camp, a platoon of deaf and dumb volunteers led by an officer called Yo Yo, and an escaped English prisoner of war called John. Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on their side was an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance. Airdrops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate – one such mission concluding with 960 canisters out of a 1,000 falling into German hands. All hopes, it seemed, rested on the Russians. After six weeks of inaction Rokossovsky finally gave the go-ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the river and relieve the insurgents. The operation was a debacle, with heavy casualties and no headway made.

The wartime resistance symbol ‘Polska Walcząca’ (Poland is Photo: Mat Fahrenholz fighting).

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Warsaw Uprising For the Russians, this single attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaw’s Old Town, defended by 8,000 Poles, had become untenable, and a daring escape route was hatched through the sewers running under the city. The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken with glee and armour. 600mm shells were landing on the centre 8 minutes, and casualties were rising to alarming rates. Surrender negotiations were initiated in early September, though it wasn’t till the end of the month that they took a concrete shape. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were forced to capitulate, some 63 days after they had taken on the Reich. “The battle is finished,” wrote a eulogy in the final edition of the Information Bulletin. “From the blood that has been shed, from the common toil and misery, from the pains of our bodies and souls, a new Poland will arise – free.”

THE AFTERMATH Having deposited their weaponry at pre-designated sites, 11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Hitler was ecstatic; with the Uprising over, his plan to raze Warsaw could finally be realised. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city. “No stone can remain standing,” warned Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings of importance to Polish culture were dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas were simply burned to the ground. “I have seen many towns destroyed,” exclaimed General Eisenhower after the war, “But nowhere have I been faced with such destruction.” Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around $54bn. In human terms Poland lost much more. With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very foundation a new post-war Poland could build on. Those veterans who survived were treated with suspicion and disdain by the newly installed communist government, others were persecuted for perceived western sympathies. Post-war Soviet show trials convicted 13 leaders of the Uprising for anti-Soviet actions, and thereafter the Uprising was condemned as a folly to serve the bourgeois ends of the Polish government-in-exile.

WHAT TO SEE MONUMENT TO THE WARSAW UPRISING It was only with the regime close to collapse that this unconventional, not to say controversial monument was unveiled. Completed in 1989 and designed by Wincenty Kućma, it depicts a group of insurgents in battle, and another faction retreating into the sewers.QE‑4, Pl. Krasińskich, MRatusz Arsenał. iyp.me/polandblog

UPRISING MUSEUM

Opened in 2004, this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with interactive displays, photographs, video footage and miscellaneous exhibits it’s a museum that’s guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram power station the 2,000m2 space is split over several levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of the Uprising (provided they don’t make any wrong turns, alas, a common mistake). Start off by learning about life under Nazi rule, your tour accompanied by the background rattle of machine guns, dive bombers and a thumping heartbeat. Different halls focus on the many aspects of the Uprising; walk through a replica radio station, or a covert printing press. The mezzanine level features film detailing the first month of battle, before which visitors get to clamber through a mock sewer. The final sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant display about the destruction of the city; take time to watch the black and white ‘before and after’ shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Nazis as punishment. Near the exit check out the film “City of Ruins,” a silenceinducing 5 minute 3-D aerial ‘film’ which took 2 years to make and used old pictures and new technology to recreate a picture of the desolation of ‘liberated’ Warsaw in March 1945. There is also an exact replica of a B24 Allied plane once used to make supply drops over the besieged city. A viewing platform (open weather permitting) and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this high impact experience. FYI: There are new QR-code triggered videos for the hearing impaired at every exhibition.QB‑7, ul. Grzybowska 79, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 539 79 05, www.1944.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 20:00, Closed Tue. 1 Sep - 30 Jun: Open 08:00 - 18:00, Thu 08:00 - 20:00, Closed Tue. Admission 25/20zł (children under 7 free). Sun free. Audioguides for 10zł per person. U August – September 2018 59

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Communist Warsaw Walking Tour The concept of ‘judging by first impressions’ has never been a favourable one to Warsaw, but to anyone that knows you should never judge a book by its cover, the city can surprise and warm even the coldest of hearts! But lets take the first concept at face value – you arrive in Warsaw’s city centre and what do you see? Grey buildings... a lot of grey buildings! True, there are old buildings, modern soulless glass structures here and there, but it’s undeniable that grey still dominates. So why is this? Well, it’s simple - war. Warsaw experienced an invasion in 1939, a Ghetto Uprising in 1943 and finally, the Warsaw Uprising of 1944 and subsequent German destruction of all buildings culturally important to Poles. After the war, the city was in ruins, the Communists were in power, and when it came to rebuilding, their architecutral style ruled the day, and that’s why Warsaw looks the way it does. Grey, but beautiful!

WALKING TOUR We have chosen for you the easiest and most logical route to take in the most important locations showing the rise of Communism, and its architectural style, in Poland. The route works well in terms of chronological order and ends nicely smack bang in the city centre, from where you can make your way to your next desitination with realtive ease. Should you choose to do so, you can do the tour in reverse order. The total length of the route is only 3 kilometres, but if you get tired during the tour, you will always be a short distance from any public transportation stop. To begin the tour, head to the Charles de Gaulle Monument across from the Palm Tree on the corner of ul. Nowy Świat and Aleje Jerozolimskie (H-8). 1 CENTRAL COMMITTEE OF THE POLISH UNITED WORKERS’ PARTY The name of this building was once long, don’t you think? Unnecessarily long, intended to be imposing as well as informative, we suppose. Building began on the HQ for what was once Poland’s dominant Communist Party, the PZPR (Polish United Workers’ Party), in 1948. It was completed in 1952, and was used by the party right up until 1990 and the fall of the People’s Republic of Poland (PRL). Thanks in no small part to a heavy dose of irony, after the fall of Communism it functioned as the Warsaw Stock Exchange until 2001. Following this jibe at Communism, it was kicked while it was down and later became the Centre for Banking and Finance, which still functions here to this day. It also contains showrooms for luxurious cars, and also some trendy bars. Ouch. But anyway, we’ve had our little giggle at the Capitalism v. Communism tussle, now onto the serious stuff. As you may know, after World War 2, Poland was in the process of rebuilding, but at the same time, Moscow’s grip on the country grew ever stronger, especially between 1945-48. Houses were gradually being rebuilt, and people were trying to put their lives back together, but at the same time, pieces of socialist realist architecture began to appear in Warsaw - a real sign of the changing political landscape.

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The Communist Party HQ was one of the first to be built. Interestingly, construction was officially said to have been funded by the members of PZPR, but the reality is that the public purse financed it, along with a scheme for people to ‘willingly’ buy symbolic bricks (something people were forced to do!) as donations to aid the construction of this building and Poland’s rebuilding process as a whole. Indeed, Warsaw’s other famous Communist relic, the Palace of Culture and Science (PKiN) also benefited from this scheme. A little nugget for you - granite from the Tannenberg Memorial (formerly in Prussian Hohenstein, now modern day Olsztynek) was used here as building material. The Tannenberg Memorial was built in 1924-27 to commemorate German soldiers on the 10th anniversary of the second Battle of Tannenberg against Imperial Russia. Following his death in 1934, President of the German Reich, Paul Von Hindenburg was interned here until Nazi troops removed his remains as the Soviet Army advanced into Prussia in 1945. The structure was destroyed with demolition charges during a hasty retreat. The job was completed by Polish authorities in 1949 and part of what was left was carted to Warsaw. Now, think of the importance this building once held as the place where the ruling party made all of their major decisions, or more to the point, where political puppets rubber stamped decisions already largely made by Moscow. It was to continue this way until the fall of Communism. In 2009, the building was registered as a listed monument, and though it doesn’t function as a tourist attraction, it’s still worth a visit to walk around and get a feel for the system, and architectural style, that once dominated Poland for so long. Go back now to the Charless de Gaulle monument, cross ul. Nowy Świat, head left and continue for a short walk until you reach your first right. Walk to the end of this small street.QH‑8, ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, MCentrum. 2 FREE SPEECH MEMORIAL The Free Speech Memorial found on ul. Mysia is right in front of what is a modern day governmental building. However, back in the days of Communist Poland (the PRL era), this used to be the main office of the Censorship Agency which controlled all media and information outlets across the country, from radio, TV and the press to even the nature of characters in books, and representations of the ideal family. Pure and simple, its mission was the control of the masses through propaganda. Censorship instructions were given just a stone’s throw away at the Communist Party HQ, naturally. The design and meaning of the memorial is quite fitting, and bridges the space between these two locations so deeply rooted in the fabric of Communist Poland. The black strip symbolises the redaction markings made by censors. The redaction strip abruptly comes to an end near the former censorship office to symbolise the victory of free speech as the communist system crumbled. The information board nearby depicts an example of censorship with its own blanked out text for you to decipher. For all tech geeks, the seats nearby contain QR codes which you can scan to play a game created by the project’s designers.

August – September 2018 61

Communist Warsaw Walking Tour Heading in the same direction you just walked, go along ul. Nowogrodzka until you reach ul. Krucza and turn left. Here you will see many examples of old ministerial buildings (still in use today) built in the socialist realist style between 1951-2. Of particular interest is the current day Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development on ul. Wspólna 30 with its fancy columns - serving no other purpose than to look impressive! Continue along Krucza until you see the next stop of the tour, 3 Bar Bambino, a slightly more upmarket take on the old state subsidised Communist era eating dens known as ‘milk bars’, which acted as makeshift work canteens all over Poland. Cheap grub galore. Continue the same way until you reach ul. Piękna, turning right.QG‑8, ul. Mysia 2, MCentrum. 4 PLAC KONSTYTUCJI A wonderful spectacle of socialist realist architecture. Designed by Jankowski, Knothe, Sigalin and Stępiński, Pl. Konstytucji was projected to be an ‘expression of creative optimism and peaceful work within the socialist system.’ Constructed between 1950-52, and officially christened on July 22, 1952, the square was originally intended to serve as a focal point for all state parades which would then go down ul. Marszałkowska to Plac Defilad (Parade Square) in front of The Palace of Culture and Science (PKiN). The reality of this plan was short-lived as this has been a car park since the 1960s. Lovely, huh? Plac Konstytucji is quite an anomaly in the urban fabric of Warsaw, for it was the crowning glory of the project to build Marszałkowska Dzielnica Mieszkaniowa (MDM, the Marszałkowska Housing District). In a sea of devastation across the city, this area was the first housing district to be completed in the city; it was quite an achievement and heralded as a big success at the time. The square you see today didn’t exist before the war, but to accommodate the plans to provide a square for the people, buildings were flattened here (so too was the case on ul. Marszałkowska and PKiN). In fact, if you look at a map of the area today, you’ll notice that ul. Koszykowa - once one long continuous street - is now split by the square, with its two severed parts now lying in the north-west and south-east sections of Plac Konstytucji. The square itself is dominated by three monumental street lamps looking like giant tridents, mosaics here and there, but things get even better along the tail end of Marszałkowska, leading to Plac Zbawiciela, where socialist reliefs of workers line the street. From here, walk straight down ul. Marszałkowska, taking in the architectural sights along the way.QG‑10, Pl. Konstytucji, MPolitechnika. 5 UL. MARSZAŁKOWSKA One of Warsaw’s main streets, measures 3580m running north-south from Plac Bankowy (next to Ratusz-Arsenał Metro station, E-5) right down to Plac Unii Lubelskiej (H12). The street was inaugurated in 1757 by the namesake of the street, Grand Marshal of the Crown Franciszek Bieliński. Back then the street was much shorter than its modern day version, running from ul. Widok to ul.

62 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Commie Puppet HQ

Królewska (the stretch currently between Metro Centrum and the start of Ogród Saski, F-6/8). The 19th century saw the street gradually become the heart of the city as the Warsaw-Vienna Railway Station was built nearby on Aleja Jerozolimskie in 1844-45. The latter half of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th heralded a plethora of ornate buildings being built along the street, with many cafes, restaurants, shops and cinemas being located here in the bustling heart of the city. All looked well until the outbreak of World War II which inevitably led to damage and destruction, firstly during the initial invasion in September 1939 and more acutely during and after the Warsaw Uprising of 1944 (p.58). It’s estimated that 80% of the street was destroyed. Following the war, a massive rebuilding plan began across Warsaw, and indeed, Poland as a whole. It may surprise many to know that despite wartime devastation, quite a handful of pre-war buildings on Marszałkowska survived the war, but they would later fall foul to the Communist’s plans to make the city centre look more Soviet. What you see today is the result of this plan, socialist realist architecture lining the majority of the street. This is most evident from the section that leads from the current day Plac Konstytucji (Constitution Square, built between 1950-52) to the city centre where the Palace of Culture and Science (PKiN, completed in 1955) now stands. In fact, it was due to the projects of creating a socialist realist city centre that the street itself was widened, partly to accommodate Communist parades that would lead from Plac Konstytucji right up to Plac Defilad (Parade Square) in front of PKiN. If the pre-war buildings stuck out too much in the street, away they went! Across the street from PKiN, 6 The Eastern Wall, a collection of buildings and tower blocks, was built in 1962 as Soviet architects looked to the west for inspiration and ideas - the results often lead to brutalist monstrosities popping up like mushrooms. Today the street looks much the same as it has for a while now, but the Eastern Wall itself underwent renovation, and the famous Rotunda Bank building is currently in the process of being redeveloped. Now for some sights of the city, enter PKiN at the entrance (facing ul. Marszałkowska).QE‑6/G‑11, ul. Marszałkowska, MCentrum. iyp.me/warsaw

Communist Warsaw Walking Tour 7 PALACE OF CULTURE & SCIENCE Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’ the 231 metre structure actually takes its inspiration from the capitalist world, namely the Empire State Building. Stalin had sent a secret delegation to New York to learn both about the building and American construction methods, though the outbreak of WWII meant that it wasn’t until 1952 that his architects were able to commence putting their knowledge into practice. Over 5,000 workers were ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a purposebuilt village in Jelonki. Working around the clock, it took them just three years to complete the Palace. In all 16 died during the construction, though despite the Olympian efforts of the labourers Stalin never lived to see his pet project completed. Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing 3,288 rooms the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just party headquarters but also ‘the people’s castle’, with invitations to the annual New Year’s Eve Ball issued to the best workers in socialist Poland. Regardless of this the building became an object of hatred and the palace was seen as no more than a symbol of Russian hegemony. Viewed from a distance – apparently it can be spotted from 30km away – the palace appears a faceless monolith. Viewed closely several intricate details appear in focus. Under Stalin’s orders architects travelled around Poland’s key cultural sights, from Wawel to Zamość, observing Polish architectural traditions, hence the numerous crenellations, courtyards and motifs. Once inside the ground floor becomes a maze of halls and corridors. Brass chandeliers hang over clacking parquet flooring, secret lifts lie hidden around and allegorical socialist reliefs take inspiration from ancient mythology. The building boasts over 3,300 rooms most of which are conference facilities or offices. Besides the theatres, bars and museums on the ground level, visitors looking to further explore the building can take a tour of some of the conference and commercial spaces, but are best directed to the viewing terrace on the 30th floor. To get there you’ll need to buy a ticket, after which you’ll be shepherded into an old-style lift complete with a lovely lift attendant who has probably been doing the job since the building opened. From May-September, you can visit the top FriSat evenings for night views of the city. They have recently introduced a new virtual reality mobile (20zł) and stationary

SOVIET WAR CEMETERY Dominated by a huge needle-like monument this is one of the first Warsaw landmarks seen on the way from the airport. The towering monument was one of the first to be built in the city following the Second World War. It features some interesting socialist reliefs depicting Red Army troops liberating Polish civilians, and the inscription reads ‘To the memory of the soldiers lost in the liberation of Poland 1944-1945’. Mass graves containing the remains of 20,000 soldiers flank each side of the memorial.QC‑14, Al. Żwirki i Wigury 10, MPole Mokotowskie.

Free Speech Memorial and Censorship Office

MUSEUM OF LIFE IN THE PRL If walking around Warsaw’s city centre and admiring the remnants of Poland’s Communist past is not enough for you, why not check out the ‘Museum of Life in the PRL’ museum in Praga? Started privately in 2014, this is not simply a museum that recollects facts and figures, it’s a unique place that shows what everyday life was like for people during the years of Poland’s Communist rule - which includes a mock up of a typical PRL era living room! An essential place to visit, especially for younger generations and those who have never lived under such a system!QM‑4, ul. Mińska 22 (entrance from ul.Głucha), MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 511 04 48 08, www.czarprl.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 8/5zł. Y

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(15zł) App (in English and Polish) which shows you Warsaw throughout the centuries from the point of view of the Palace of Culture. This is a fascinating technological tourist treat and a once in a lifetime chance to stare into the past while standing in the present and looking out over the future. From the observation point, take a look around Warsaw, see the crazy mix of socialist realist housing blocks all over, from right in the city centre, to outer districts. And end here ends our tour, however, should you wish to explore the topic further, here are some further recommendations for you to visit.QE‑8, Pl. Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:30. From September open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission for the viewing level is 20/15zł. You can purchase tickets online. Y

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Relax in Żelazowa Wola as Chopin’s music serenades you everywhere you go.

Further Afield There’s plenty to see and do in Warsaw, however, we understand that not all visitors are content with just visiting the capital and may wish to explore beyond the city limits. There’s something for everyone across the whole Mazovian region, and this section highlights some of the most interesting things to see and do, from visiting sites full of history, music, relaxation, and outdoor activities for those looking for something more fun-filled and leisurely! 64 Warsaw In Your Pocket

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Further Afield MODLIN FORTRESS Situated in the town of Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki, 30km north-west of Warsaw, the 19th century Modlin Fortress (Twierdza Modlin) is one of the longest buildings in Europe at 2,250m. It’s here at the meeting point of two rivers, the Narew and Vistula, in 1806 Napoleon ordered the creation of a defensive point (he is rumoured to have designed one of the first buildings). The complex was later expanded by Tsarist troops from 1880 onwards and the main fort became part of a larger defensive project, consisting of two defensive rings. The entire complex eventually became redundant as military technology and strategies evolved in the 20th century. The fortress saw major action in the Battle of Modlin, during the 1939 Defensive War after Nazi Germany invaded Poland. 24,000 troops held out from 13-29 September and were one of the last to capitulate. Post-war, the fortress was used by the Polish military, but now it has been sold to developers who plan to turn it into apartments, and a shopping centre, among other things. Despite this, parts of the fortress are still open to tourists and you can visit individually or join a group. Although entry onto the terrain is free, to explore certain areas, you must pay. You can visit the underground basements Sat/ Sun 11:00-16:00 (5zł), the museum of the September campaign, open daily 10:00-17:00 (closed Mon), and finally, the viewing tower, open daily 10:00-18:00 (10zł). The easiest way to get there is by Koleje Mazowieckie ‘RL’ train, which leave once an hour at 08:15 from Warsaw Central Train Station to Modlin, from where the fort is a 10 minute walk to the west along the river.Qul. gen. Józefa Bema 500, Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki, www. twierdzamodlin.pl. ZEGRZE RESERVOIR This large body of water, linking 3 nearby rivers: the Vistula, Narew and Wkra, is the summer playground of Varsovians who wish to get away from the city and enjoy the beaches, bars and water sports. And no wonder, as it’s only 20km north-west of Warsaw. To say this place is one of relaxation may be slightly overstated as when the good weather hits, it’s quite a tight squeeze for space! This isn’t always the case, and people can’t be blamed for throwing themselves in the water when temperatures go above 30ºC! Primarily during

The once mighty Modlin Fortress begs for you to explore it!

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The watery playground of all inhabitants of the Mazovian region.

Spring-Autumn, the lake is full of yachts and other water faring contraptions, but come winter, reservoir traffic turns to ice-skating (only for the brave!). Getting there is easy. Take the ‘Zefir’ ferry at 09:15 from the Żeran Canal (summer only each Sat & Sun) near bus stop Cementownia 02. A one way journey costs 36zł (18zł reduced). The ferry will take you to the northern part of the reservoir to the town of Serock; alternatively, bus 735 from Metro Marymont bus stop 15, will take you to the southern part of the reservoir to stop Zegrze Południe and requires a zone 2 ticket. If the busy beaches are not your thing, the surrounding area has plenty of quiet tourist trails to enjoy.Qwww.jezioro. zegrzynskie.pl/. FRYDERYK CHOPIN BIRTHPLACE & PARK IN ŻELAZOWA WOLA This museum celebrates both the Historical Birthplace of the lauded composer and pays tribute to the dramatic history of the very museum itself. Half of the house has been filled with early 19th century keepsakes, instruments and paintings, and many visitors attest to the haunting spirit of Chopin that lingers throughout. Another part of the house is decorated in pre-war 20th century decor and traces the transformation of the outbuildings into a world-class museum. Outside the impressively landscaped bucolic garden makes for a nice walk. As you walk around the gardens, there are craftily hidden speakers serenading you with Chopin’s music. The museum is open 09:00-19:00 until 30 September. The park is open 09:00-20:00 until 31 August and 09:00-19:00 until end of September. Each Sat/Sun in summer at 13:00, English tours are available for groups up to 30 people - it is recommended to buy tickets for this online. Żelazowa Wola is 54km west of Warsaw and can be reached in one hour by bus and train. The best way to get there is to go with a tour group (p.28) or get a Koleje Mazowieckie train (Route 3) from Warszawa Śródmieście train station to Sochaczew or a TLK train from Warszawa Centralna Train Station - once there, get ZKM bus no.6 which goes to Żelazowa Wola (bus no.1 to Kampinos also stops there).QŻelazowa Wola 15, tel. (+48) 46 863 33 00, www.chopin.museum/pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Museum closed Mon (park open). Admission 23/14zł for the museum and park, 7/4zł for the park only. Wed free. Y August – September 2018 65

Łódź WHAT TO SEE How many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself ‘More than a shopping centre?’With Manufaktura, for once the hype is entirely justified. It is the largest shopping and entertainment development in Central Europe covering a space of 150,000m2, ranking as one of the most impressive urban regeneration projects anywhere, and its success has inspired further bold urban planning projects that have given the city a certain swagger.

Piotrkowska - Europe's longest street!

For many newcomers and tourists alike, Łódź is an anomaly in many ways. Though you may not have the first clue how to pronounce it (think of it as “Woodge”), Łódź has emerged as one of Poland’s most exciting young cities. It may not possess the postcard panoramas and historical charisma of Prague and Kraków, post-industrial Łódź has garnered much praise for its fantastic film pedigree and dynamic cultural calendar, the longest pedestrian high street in Europe, and some of the country’s finest afterdark venues. Economically and architecturally it is often compared with other post-industrial revitalisation success stories, such as Manchester and Rotterdam. This is all well and good, however Łódź remains impenetrable to many would-be visitors. Some basic information is needed before one can thrust oneself headlong into the all-night industrial warehouse parties and cut up the red carpet at film premieres. Today, Łódź remains an important cog in the Polish wheel. Derelict factories are being converted into luxury apartments, buoyed with a new confidence in itself, the city continues Łódź to expand its horizons and we highly recommend a visit to see what all the hype is about. The transition is ongoing - and believe us, the time to go is now. To learn all there is to love in the city, visit lodz.inyourpocket. com - the best English-language guide to Łódź. Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

No. 37, May – August 2018

Łódź Street Art

Your Guide to the City of Cinema

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Fotofestival 2018

p.17

Fairytale Łódź

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Manufaktura today is the result of Poland’s largest renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town. Originally a series of factories constructed in the latter part of the 19th century, the restoration quite simply has to be seen to be believed. Enter through Poznański gate, where workers used to file through everyday, and you’ll arrive at ground zero: the 30,000m2 Rynek (main square). Featuring Europe’s longest fountain, the square is the cultural hub, with restaurants, fitness club and IMAX cinema. The complex can boast a state of the art 4-star Andels hotel, a Museum of Art as well as the History of Łódź museum set in the palace of the former mill owner Izrael Poznański. Thanks to Manufaktura’s success, the rest of the city has seen a kick-start to its gastronomy and party scene - walk along ul. Piotrkowska, Europe’s longest pedestrian street, which rates as one of Poland’s most famous party scenes, with places like OFF Piotrkowska, hosting trendy bars, clubs and places to eat, too located in the ground of an old industrial building, and Piotrkowska 217 hosting restaurants and food trucks have all but assured the city’s hip credentials. EC1 cultural centre (below), a former power station found directly across from the main train station Łódź Fabryczna, with its planetarium and soon to open science museum is a must see. The famous film school, founded in 1948 as a pet project of Stalin, has nurtured the talent of Polański, Wajda and Kieślowski, The city continues to change at a breakneck speed with new hotels queuing to join the market, and property investors discovering the hidden beauty and investment opportunities offered by the city’s run-down brick buildings and fast transit connections to Warsaw. Don’t miss out.

GETTING TO ŁÓDŹ Łódz lies 140km south west of Warsaw and is easily accessed by train. With new modernised lines, getting to Łódz from Warsaw is easier than ever, with journey times of 1.5 hours. If you’re travelling from the capital you’ll need to book a ticket running to the new Łódź Fabryczna train station. The city centre is best reached by tram or taxi. Taxis stand directly outside the main entrance to the station, although only use cabs that are clearly marked. 66 Warsaw In Your Pocket

EC1: Red brick mixed with modern architecture - lovely!

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Cafés

Shabby chic interior, laid back atmosphere, and delightful food - all courtesy of Bułkę Przez Bibułkę

BLIKLE CAFÉ A part of Warsaw folklore. This is where Charles De Gaulle used to come for his doughnuts back in his Warsaw days, and Blikle still sells a variety of desserts and cakes that are famous in their own right. A classy, august venue, with a menu that includes a range of breakfasts, lunches, ice creams and a dessert selection that will have you in heaven.QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 33, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 669 60 97 06, www.blikle.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. BW BUŁKĘ PRZEZ BIBUŁKĘ Found handily in the city centre, right off ul. Chmielna, this is a great little place that makes you feel like you’re in a small town setting as opposed to a busy street with cars whizzing past. The interior walls may look like the builders forgot to finish the job they started, but this is all part of the charm of the shabby chic look, which fits quite well with the warmth and mood of the place. It’s important to highlight the most important aspects of this place, the 1st being that they serve all-day-breakfasts which are damn good! From bagels to soups and sandwiches. Secondly, with all breakfast options, the cappuccino only costs an extra 5zł (lactose free milk, soya milk options you pay an additional fee). What’s more, if you buy a take-away coffee, 10 groszy from each sale goes to charity! Furthermore, something for all budgets, 0.5l wine is 14zł from 18:0021:00 daily, and Prosecco 5zł, and tap water is always free! Their other locations are on ul. Zwycięzców 32 in Saska 68 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Kępa, ul. Puławska 24 in the Mokotów district and in Stara Papiernia, Al. Wojska Polskiego 3 in Konstancin.QG‑8, ul. Zgoda 3, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 28 55 22, www. bulkeprzezbibulke.pl. Open 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. TB6W CAFE PRÓŻNA Making a stir with Warsaw’s intellectuals is Cafe Próżna, a cracking cafe set inside an historic building that is slowly being renovated. You’ll be lucky to find a seat inside this narrow venue, even more so if there’s a lecture or reading going on. Decorated with pre-war photographs, Próżna comes with a pile of well-thumbed history books in the entrance, tiny tea candles and a basement level to soak up any overflow of customers. The only disappointment here are the smoothies; nowhere near as good as the venue deserves.QE‑7, ul. Próżna 12, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 620 32 57, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open 10:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. B6W CHARLOTTE. CHLEB I WINO Enjoy buttery croissants with jam or traditional egg dishes for breakfast or anytime really since trendy Charlotte slings breakfast all day. Also visit their new Menora location on Plac Grzybowski 2.QG‑10, Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (entrance from Pl. Zbawiciela), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 662 20 45 55, www.bistrocharlotte.pl. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. TB 6W iyp.me/warsaw

Cafés CROQUE MADAME A mighty fine French style cafe, bakery and cake shop which neatly manages to walk the difficult line of being neither too trendy nor too old fashioned and therefore attracts a nice mix of customers. The beautiful interior is all delicate whites and pale greys and the attention to detail in everything is immediately noticeable. Enjoy a morning breakfast basket (Polish or French style), lunches Mon-Fri 12:00-17:00 (main & soup for 24zł), freshly made sandwiches, light and colourful salads and marvel at the daily selection of cakes and sweets. Whatever you order, it all comes simply, yet perfectly presented, and served by waiters and waitresses who actually look happy to be working here and that’s always a winner in our book!QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 41, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 530 75 72 00. Open 09:00 21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. B6W HOW YOU DOIN’? If you and your friends were, or still are, obsessed with the US sitcom Friends, or you consider yourself to be a bit of a Chandler Bing or a Joey Tribbiani, but you can’t quite budget a trip to New Yoik right now to take in that cult sitcom feel...instead, go to the corner of one of the most communist looking parts of Warsaw, Constitution Square (Plac Konstytucji) for that little piece of Friends, in How You Doin’? Alas, there’s no Gunther here, but you can get a decent choice of coffees, teas, smoothies, cocktails and food from snacks to sandwiches and desserts. There’s also alcohol to help you cope with the Chandler Bing of your group... QG‑10, ul. Piękna 28/34, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 508 54 67 92, www.howudoin.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:30 - 23:00, Sun 08:30 - 22:00. B6W KAWIARNIA KRUCZA 23 As the city’s count of bistros, trattorias and eateries with surreal names continues to expand at break-neck speed, it’s reassuring to know that some folks like to keep things simple. It’s a café and it’s on ul. Krucza, so let’s call it Kawiarnia Krucza! Excellent coffees (including drip, chemex and aeropress), cool teas, wines and beers plus a range of fashionable soft drinks. Add to this a variety of all-day breakfast options, cakes, rustic breads, salads, pastas and a Mon-Fri lunch option (soup and main for 19zł from 12:00-17:00). Changing exhibitions by local artists add a touch of colour to the stylish grey plastered interior.QG‑9, ul. Krucza 23/31, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 502 49 47 46. Open 08:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. TB6W MIAU CAFE There are cats here. We could easily leave it at that, as those obsessed by the small furballs will already have a look of joy on their faces. But anyway, there are 5 resident cats, training all humans who enter to be their servants, for they will sleep on you, ignore you, hide from you, and observe you - some even plot their escape and often make a calculated dash for the glass door when people enter. Some make it out, only for their plans to be foiled by the nice people that serve awesome cakes and beverages.Qul. Adama Naruszewicza 30, MWierzbno, tel. (+48) 793 20 42 96, www.miaucafe. pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. W iyp.me/polandblog

MONIQUE BAKERY & WINE This French style cafe really is underselling itself by saying Bakery and Wine. Ok, they do make some great rustic breads, fine cakes/pastries and have a small selection of nice wines, but they also do great salads, low-fat burgers, tartines, filled pancakes, ice creams, freshly squeezed fruit cocktails and are open from 8:00 for a variety of breakfasts. A little Parisian style diamond on Krucza. They also have a 2nd location in Galeria Mokotów. QG‑8, ul. Krucza 41/43, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 39 74, www.moniquebakery.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00. B6W ODETTE PASTRY SHOP Odette is perhaps Warsaw’s first boutique pastry workshop & cafe. The stylish interior invites you to indulge in their unique confectionery creations: cakes, cookies, chocolates and macaroons. The professional pastry chefs walk a fine line between traditional Polish and European pastries and more modern avant-garde. Their experiments are all in the noble cause of achieving confectionery perfection! Also visit their new location at ul. Twarda 2/4.QG‑7, ul. Górskiego 6/7, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 604 74 54 44, www.odette.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. BW

CHOCOLATE LOUNGES E. WEDEL CHOCOLATE LOUNGE “OLD-FASHIONED SHOP” The reason everyone at Wedel looks like they’re in a daze is because this is the mothership of chocolate cafes. Wedel is the country’s longest established chocolate manufacturer and one of the best known brands. This classy venue is located in what was once the factory and cafe of the Wedel business. You’ll still be able to taste the original chocolate creations of its founders which were so popular that Karol Wedel had to introduce a factory seal carrying his signature to combat the number of forged ‘Wedel’ products filling the market in the 1860s. The menu here is impressive in both size and scope, covering every variety of chocolate drink, dessert, truffle and ice cream dish imaginable. Chocolate comas are inevitable. Try their other city centre location on Krakowskie Przedmieście 45.QG‑7, ul. Szpitalna 8, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 827 29 16, www.wedelpijalnie. pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 21:00. TB6W WAWEL Yes it sounds awfully similar to Wedel, and their histories are equally alike. Confectioner Adam Piasecki founded the company in 1898 in Kraków and it became a recognisable Polish brand for sweets. Their Warsaw chocolate lounge is located on Krakowskie Przedmieście where chocoholics can still indulge in a ridiculous array of truffles and treats. The hot chocolate’s impressively diverse for the adventurous!QG‑6, ul. Królewska 2, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 828 14 99, www.wawel.com. pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. B6W August – September 2018 69

Restaurants

Everything blends seamlessly in Merliniego (P.84) - atmosphere, interior, and the food, to create a great experience.

Warsaw’s come a long way fast, and nowhere is the urban vibrancy more apparent than in the city’s progressive culinary scene. Today one can find quality dining experiences from most corners of the world, though the predominance of Italian trattorias, sushi bars and designer burger joints never ceases to amaze us. As the Polish palate is developing, so too is the service industry, though gruff, ditzy, or plain incompetent service is still far too common. As regards to tipping, 10% is standard (easy math!), if a decent enough job is done. While our rigorously researched opening hours would seem self-explanatory, be aware that venues will close their doors if business is slow, and some ‘restobars’ employ different sets of hours for bar and kitchen - the times we list in such cases are for the kitchen, and the prices we list in brackets denote the cost of the cheapest and most expensive main course on the menu. Below is a selection of recommendations depending what you are looking for: BUSINESS Restauracja Różana (p.94) is an experienced local offering that will impress the client and give you room to talk shop, while Senses (p.82) became Poland’s 2nd restaurant to earn a Michelin star in 2016. CHEAP The street food truck trend is fantastic, and even better when this type of food can be purchased at an actual venue, step in Oh My Pho (p.73), which does some 70 Warsaw In Your Pocket

fantastic Vietnamese food. Don’t expect culinary miracles in Milk Bars (p.96), however, the food is hearty and tasty while adhering to an absolute affordability ethos. COUPLES For a romantic and elegant night out Elixir (p.90) ticks all the right boxes, while those looking for somewhere with a more casually stylish atmosphere should get a feel for some pre-war Warsaw style at the new and fantastic Do Bo Do (p.88) - once home to Eugeniusz Bodo’s ‘Cafe Bodo’. KIDS Hard Rock Cafe (p.71) is always going to be a favourite and they do know how to make your special ones feel like Miley or Justin. Credit also goes to Aioli Cantine (p.84) for their ambitious weekend kids program which includes oversized chess and celebrities reading children’s stories. LADS Launch an attack on the pies, fish & chips and burgers at Legends (p.102) while downing pints of Spitfire Ale and watching the footie, or head down to Bierhalle (p.105) where their Bavarian menu is perfectly matched to the flury of pints they pour from their pipes. POLSKI Eat Commie style in Czerwony Wieprz (p.88), or for a pre-revolutionary and elegant take on Polish cuisine Dom Polski (p.90) a class act that’s hard to beat. For a full-on rustic Polish experience in the big city, the rustic style of Zapiecek’s (p.94) pierogi specialties is a good choice. iyp.me/warsaw

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY 6 Animal friendly

B Outdoor seating

T Child-friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

W Wi-fi connection X Smoking room available

AMERICAN BLACK REAL BURGERS ‘N’ BAR The popular burger joint from Israel opens its first Polish venue. Located in Arkadia shopping centre, don’t be put off by the idea that this place will be nothing more than a basic eatery in the fast-food court. First thing’s first, upon entering, it’s easy to forget you’re in a shopping centre, which is a credit to the funky interior design, mixed with a dash of street art and...shipping containers - why not, huh?! The kitchen is open plan, the atmosphere is friendly (there’s even a kids’ play area) and the upstairs bar area is impressively stocked. The menu has what you’d expect from a burger joint, but there are other offerings too, such as steaks and street food favourites, like fried chicken, all under one roof and all tasty. The venue is new, the waiting staff are a little green, but watch as they grow in confidence and make your visit an enjoyable experience.QB‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II 82, MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 22 351 98 20, www.blackrealburger.pl. Open 10:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €€€. TB 6W HARD ROCK CAFE Is there anything more American than sinking your teeth into an 8oz. burger stacked with cheddar and bacon while staring at the jacket worn by Jimi Hendrix on the cover of Are You Experienced? The Hard Rock Cafe has based a business around the concept of unrivalled burgers and impressive memorabilia, and Warsaw’s chapter is no different. The two-story venue features a wall made of 675 guitars and their new menu offers even more mouth watering American grilled, fried and melted classics (veggie options also available). The dark basement bar churns out heaping drinks that look like they require two straws. Live music by Gabriela Pisańska is available every Wednesday (22:00) and Saturday (18:30).QE‑8, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrock.com/warsaw. Open 09:00 24:00. €€€€. TUBE6W

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August – September 2018 71

Restaurants SOMEPLACE ELSE SPE has been serving up some of the best burgers in Warsaw for as long as we can remember, and a recent visit shows little has changed: the SPE Quesadilla is both epic and creative. The large, open bar is capable of mixing up anything you can think of, including a spicy bloody Mary to accompany the Sheraton’s brunch, which is served here on Sundays.QH‑9, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa. someplace-else.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. TUBW

BURGERS BARN BURGER Decorated like a college common room with cult movie posters and some random Americana, Barn Burger has convinced plenty of coeds to ditch their diets and dive into juicy cheeseburgers or even the aptly-named ‘Heart Attack’ burger (mmm, bacon!). Every sandwich is partnered with chubby fries and a cup of coleslaw, and you’re a champ if you can finish the entire wooden tray’s worth of food before you. Check out their new second location as well at ul. Zgoda 5.QF‑7, ul. Złota 9, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 888 22 27 50, www.barnburger.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. €€. U6 BURGER BAR The space is small and the lines are long, but Burger Bar’s simple list of classic burgers makes up for what the location lacks (namely sides and a decent beverage selection). Choose from the chalkboard menu – we’ve had the juicy cheeseburger more than once – and tell the chef your selection. If the only other employee is on the phone he’ll ask you to pay later rather than handle your money, so grab a seat at one of the four odd tables and buckle up: this is a contender for Warsaw’s best burger, and you’re going to need both hands and plenty of napkins. Also they just opened a Chinese take-out joint next door called Pekin Express Duck & More. Also found on ul. Krucza 41/43.QH‑15, ul. Puławska 74/80, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 780 09 40 76, www.roomservice.pl/restauracja/burger-bar. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. €€. UB6

ARGENTINEAN SALTO Winner of the 2013 edition of Poland’s ‘Top Chef’ competition, Argentinean-born Martin Gimenez Castro now heads his own signature restaurant in the city’s glamorous Art Deco Hotel Rialto. Enter via a separate door on ul. Emilii Plater and prepare to be dazzled by the modern South American cuisine on offer. The fish and seafood dishes include octopus - a perennial favourite among diners. Mr. Gimenez Castro’s encyclopaedic knowledge of the proper hanging and preparation of beef can be experienced by diving into the steak section of the menu. They also offer an extensive breakfast menu weekdays from 06:30 - 10:30 and weekends from 07:00 - 12:00.QF‑10, ul. Wilcza 73 (entrance from ul. Emilii Plater), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 584 87 71, www.saltorestaurant.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. U6W 72 Warsaw In Your Pocket

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Restaurants U Fukiera, Warszawa, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, tel. +48 22 831 10 13, +48 600 999 933, email: fukier@ufukiera.pl, www.ufukiera.pl an invitation from

U Fukiera Restaurant is the oldest restaurant in Warsaw. Our tradition dates back to the beginning of the 16th century, when a famous wine merchant Grzegorz Korab built a house and opened a wine shop in its cellars. Ever since it has remained a family business. It has been 28 years since a family tradition was continued by Magda Gessler, who created “U Fukiera” Restaurant that delights with a harmonious combination of taste, scent, sound and color complemented with sophisticated interiors. All along, they never forget to take great care for excellent service and attention to details. The secret of U Fukiera’s special taste lies in produce, not only its legendary quality, but also in its provenance that determines the flavor. All that is best in flavor here comes solely from purest, superior and exclusive richness of our native produce. Here you will experience authentic, traditional gourmet Polish cuisine.

It is certainly worth to taste such magic.

ASIAN FAT BUDDHA Disclaimer: No, you haven’t just walked into a night club. You are, in fact, in a restaurant and lounge. A nice chilled out one at that, with ambient music in the background. Once you’re settled, choose from the impressive menu with Asian food favourites, and a classy selection of wines and champagnes. Although not the cheapest of places, the food was of a high standard and the knowledgable waiting staff are friendly and professional in every regard! After your meal, freshen up in the toilets, where we were pleasantly surprised with the products laid out for customers to use (really, see for yourself ). Stay till late and enjoy the atmosphere late into the night (until the last customer). Please note, there is a 10% service charge added to your bill.QF‑7, ul. Mazowiecka 2/4, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 690 03 05 58, www. fatbuddha.pl. Open 17:00 - 04:00, Wed 17:00 - 24:00, Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. €€€. TU 6W OH MY PHO Oh My Pho, indeed! At least that’s what I was saying to myself after trying their food. Found on ul. Wilcza, just off the main ul. Marszałkowska, this Vietnamese street food joint serves up some mighty dishes (not bad considering the reasonable prices). The interior is small (two rooms), sparse, with some white and red walls with photos dotted around; you’ll most likely walk in and have to wait iyp.me/polandblog

a short time while you wait for others to eat up and make space, but that’s just a sign of how popular this place has become for those looking for good quality quick food. The menu is extensive (including vegan and vegetarian), so you’re spoilt for choice - we went for Nuong Kieu Saigon (with chicken) and Bo Xao (with beef ) and were delighted at how tender the meat was. Friendly service and good food - a simple combination that works well.QG‑9, ul. Wilcza 32, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 579 12 61 83, www. ohmypho.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. €€. 6W

BALKAN BANJALUKA Head here for monstrous portions of the best Balkan food in town. This central spot means the city’s officebots have discovered a great new Mon-Fri lunch special, with 19.90zł (15.90zł for the vegetarian option) filling you with a new daily menu that sounds like what a small wrestling team might take down: start with fish soup, enjoy a meaty main and there’s even baklava for dessert (they also have new breakfast specials on weekends). Don’t miss the Live music Mon-Thu from 20:00, Fri & Sat from 20:30 (Sun starts at 18:00). On Sundays, they have a nanny that puts on a real kiddie show from 13:00 - 17:00 so you can feast in peace. QF‑7, ul. Szkolna 2/4, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 60, www.banjaluka.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. €€€. TBE6W August – September 2018 73

Restaurants RUZA ROZA The newly transformed Ruza Roza hits the bullseye in almost every department. Perfectly situated on trendy ul. Francuska, a well thought out garden space and an interior which is fresh and sophisticated. Every detail has been carefully considered. The seasonally changing menu may has a distinctive Balkan flair yet they aren’t afraid to expand and experiment with other cuisines. Expect the freshest local and regional produce throughout the colourful menu. It’s also a top spot to drop in for a cocktail (with occasional live music). A nanny service is offered Sat & Sun 14:00-17:00.QL‑7, ul. Francuska 3, tel. (+48) 22 616 35 97, www.ruzaroza.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TB EW

CZECH

DECODING THE MENU Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego! (Enjoy your meal!) śniadanie breakfast zupa soup przystawki appetisers dania główne main dishes dodatki side dishes ziemniaki potatoes kapusta cabbage ser cheese chleb bread warzywa vegetables owoce fruit mięso meat kurczak chicken wieprzowina pork wołowina beef ryba fish deser dessert ciasto cake lody ice cream napoje drinks kawa coffee piwo beer 74 Warsaw In Your Pocket

ČESKÁ PIVNI RESTAURANT The Czech Beer and Culinary experience has finally been corporatised and franchised at this popular city centre restaurant. As much as we’d like to hate this place for its sterilised atmosphere, average food and sub par service - the Pilsner is the real deal and served up fast, cold and as foamy as you like (go half and half ). So in summary, it has most of the qualities of authentic Czech places minus the McCzech corporate packaging. Since the prices are competitive and portions quite large, this turns out to be a great spot for a mid-day city escape or an early evening Urquell session.QF‑8, ul. Chmielna 35, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 602 33 34 44, www.ceska.pl. Open 12:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€. TU B 6 W U SZWEJKA This ageing establishment, equipped with Czech street signs and images of simpleton Szwejk, is a bit of a Warsaw classic, and while it looks brash and basic the food is fine and the portions are scary. The steak is inconsistent, so best stick to ordering standards like sausages and schnitzel. Patience is a good tactic to use with the staff, but there’s certainly no criticism of the Pilsner on draught - cut the dismal waiting times by ordering in steins. Lunches available Mon-Fri 12:0015:30. They also have nightly live music from 19:30 throughout the week, and 14:00-18:00 on Sundays (along with a nanny service on this day only).QG‑10, Pl. Konstytucji 1, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 339 17 10, www.uszwejka.pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. TBEW

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Restaurants FRENCH LE VICTORIA BRASSERIE MODERNE Located inside the Sofitel Victoria Hotel, Le Brasserie sparkles with a sophisticated colour scheme of beige, creams and greys. Black and white light fittings, orange highlights, window-like mirrors and comfy geometric seating add a warm and spacious feel to Didier Gomez’s design. The slick open kitchen area draws your eye to the work of chef Maciej Majewski and his team as they prepare seasonally adjusted dishes based on classic and modern brasserie-style French cuisine. Prices are seriously competitive with nearby restaurants, making it an attractive proposition for a stylish and upmarket dinner date or business lunch.QF‑6, ul. Królewska 11, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 657 83 82, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. TU6W

FUSION FUSION Beautifully presented food in the modern, if regularly quiet, interiors of the Westin hotel. The food here is very good, if a tad pricey compared to city restaurants, but you get what you pay for, with everything being of a superior quality. Regular seasonal specials based around particular ingredients keep happy local foodies coming back for more. Don’t miss their Business Lunch Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 starting at 39zł.QD‑7, Al. Jana Pawła II 21 (The Westin Hotel), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 450 86 31, www.restauracjafusion.pl. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:30; Sat 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 22:30; Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 13:00 - 22:30. €€€€. TU BW

GEORGIAN RESTAURACJA RUSIKO Family run Georgian restaurant located at the Plac Trzech Krzyży end of Al. Ujazdowskie. The owner, Davit Turkestanishvili is a much revered ambassador for his country’s cuisine in the city and with his mother and aunt ruling the kitchen, authenticity is guaranteed (the restaurant is even named after his mum). The interior has a nice contemporary feel, mixed with traditional elements – like the Georgian tapestries and rugs adorning the walls and floor. If unfamiliar with the cuisine of the region, we recommend sharing one of their ‘taste of Georgia’ starter platters or the succulent broth filled Chinkali meat pouches before delving into the delicious and exotically seasoned mains. A kid’s area also emphasises the close ties Georgians place on food and family as a social event for all. As an addition, check out their wine bar, which only sells Georgian wine, brandy and other strong alcohols!QH‑9, Al. Ujazdowskie 22, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 06 28, www.rusiko.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€. TB6W iyp.me/polandblog

BREAKFAST

As it’s arguably the most important meal of the day, it’s good news that there are early bird eating options that go beyond foraging in bins. First off, Charlotte will dazzle and delight with the savoury smells and treś magnifique eats. Cafe Vincent has perhaps the best pastries, baguettes and croissants in the city. For those on the tourist track looking for an early snack and a cup of joe, To Lubię is the best in show. CAFÉ VINCENT This place is a great French bakery and coffee shop doing a huge range of authentic pastries and bread. Their baked goods are a bit too good as there is almost always a queue out the door. Their espresso and croissants are the best in town and their full breakfast menu is delightful. Also at ul. Jana Pawła II 82, ul. Chmielna 21, Sadyba Best Mall, ul. Białostocka 42, Pl. Grzybowski, Galeria Mokotów and Arkadia.QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 64, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 828 01 15, www. vincentcafe.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 23:00. €. 6W HARD ROCK CAFE If you’re looking for a big, fast and cheap American-style breakfast, none rocks harder than this global legend. Their special breakfast menu features omelettes, eggs, quesadillas, juices, coffee etc. They also offer a “huge, fresh sandwich” for only 13zł, any breakfast choices along with a coffee will be 16zł.QE‑8, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrock.com/warsaw. Breakfast served 09:00 - 12:00. TUB6W TO LUBIĘ Divine. Coffee, cakes, pies, breakfast, coffee and apple crumble at 12zł a slice. Opposite the church on a street that is best known as being tourist-trap central, this is the kind of place you can get all twee for a moment. ‘I like this’ is what the name means and we do. Best bit, breakfast served all day!QF‑3, ul. Freta 8, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 90 23, www.tolubie.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. €. B6W August – September 2018 75

Restaurants HEALTHY EATING MANGO VEGAN STREET FOOD Mango has rapidly built up a cult following for its cheap and cheerful vegan fair in the city centre. The menu may be short but it’s a great place to enjoy a range of Arabic and Israeli influenced flavours, from juicy vegan burgers (we really recommend trying the burger with fried tofu), falafel based options to soups, smoothies and drinks. For a sweetly sum of just 19.90zł, during weekdays you can get a lunch consisting of a main, soup and kompot drink. The yellow and white painted brickwork interior makes this ‘fast food’ joint look effortlessly hip. The tatted and bearded staff are friendly, funny and enjoy a bit of clowning around.QG‑8, ul. Bracka 20, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 535 53 36 29, www. mangovegan.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00. €€. TB6W VEGE MIASTO A paradise for Warsaw’s healthy eating, vegan and glutenfree fanatics. The interior is a pretty simple affair with fittings made from old wooden crates and palettes. The smallish space is permanently packed with a variety of customers; hip vege devotees sit alongside business types, local ladies and tourists in search of something beyond a fried pig and a kilo of potatoes flock in at all times of the day to gorge themselves on fresh and tasty produce, beautiful cakes and a great range of drinks.QE‑5, Al. Solidarności 60A, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 251 05 25, www.vegemiasto.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00. €€. TB6W

INDIAN BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE A restaurant which is more popular than ever, and ideally situated smack bang in the middle of the lively Nowy Świat. The menu features authentic and aromatic meat and vegetarian dishes, plus a range of Indian courses, all excellently prepared by chefs from northern India. Drop in Mon-Fri for their lunch menu from 12:00 - 16:00 (23.99 zł) and Sundays before 17:00 get a 30% discount on the whole menu, furthermore, from 17:00-20:00 get -50% discount on 2 dishes from the vege and meat options. Eat, relax, and enjoy. To leave well-fed and entertained is a plus, non?QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 58, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 02 83, www.bollywoodlounge.pl. Open 12:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. TBEW BUDDHA INDIAN RESTAURANT Buddha really impressed when they opened up a couple of years back giving us very good Indian food right in the heart of the city. The newly renovated interiors are lush and extravagant, and the curries follow a similar suit with a spicy slap that puts them at the top of our list. The rest of the menu is monstrous, but helpfully benchmarked with symbols for hot, vegetarian and even kid-friendly dishes. Don’t miss their weekday lunch specials from 12:00 - 15:30 for just 20 zł!QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 23, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 35 01, www.buddha.info.pl. Open 12:00 22:45, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:45. €€. TUBW 76 Warsaw In Your Pocket

NAMASTE INDIA What began as a modest Indian-owned grocery store soon expanded into a full-on ethnic restaurant and proved so popular that a second location was needed to meet the demand for delicious Indian cuisine. For office workers around town, this - the newly expanded original location - remains the best, and we’ll agree that it simply doesn’t get much better for Indian food in the capital. Better still, the prices are set so low you can’t help but ask what’s the catch. There isn’t one; we’ve tried pretty much everything on the menu, and have yet to find a weak link. Consider ringing ahead for takeaway because waiting times can be torture and ask about booking their new private room for parties and meetings.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. €€. TBW

INTERNATIONAL BOSKA PRAGA This is the type of upscale multipurpose venue that Praga has been lacking and most certainly deserves. The multilevel lofted restaurant offers plenty of space for elegant wining and dining while also providing some cosy corners to curl up with a laptop and coffee. Their extensive menu is truly impressive if not a bit exhaustive with everything from wood fired pizza, sleek salads and artisanal burgers to cutting edge meaty mains and exotic specials. Don’t miss their breakfast menu 08:30 - 12:00 (Mon-Fri) and 09:00 12:00 (Sat-Sun) or lunch specials served 12:00 - 16:00 (MonFri). Head downstairs to the basement for a private party or leave your kids in their huge kid’s corner (with a babysitter on the weekends!). Boska means divine and it’s not just a line.QI‑4, ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 404 54 89, www.boskapraga.pl. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Fri 08:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 21:00. €€. TUB6W GENESIS + STEAK What looks like a Gaudi 2.0 building in one of Warsaw’s newest squares, Plac Europejski, is actually Genesis + Steak restaurant and cocktail bar. This place is definitely for fine dining, and with Paweł Kibart as head chef (formerly of the Bristol Hotel), expectations are quite rightly set high. The ingredients are top quality, the food preparation likewise, and the interior and staff all add to the overall experience, which in our opinion is outstanding. A range of international dishes are on offer, from amazing appetisers and soup starts, to the mains, with the steaks from 5 countries (Poland, Ireland, America, Argentina and Spain) prepared in no less than 17 separate ways deserving a special mention, which are prepared in a wood fire stove, and taste delightful. We also highly recommend the desserts! The prices are high, but the quality and experience matches the price tag.QC‑7, Plac Europejski 5, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 395 75 77, www. genesiswarsaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 14:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. €€€€. TUBW iyp.me/warsaw

Restaurants GRAND KREDENS Few places in Warsaw match this for a fine, dare we say splendid dining experience. The revamped decor is delightfully eclectic and the menu - with a terrific variety of fish (amongst much else) to savour - is well up to the challenge of its rivals which includes even getting on board with the kiddy playground corner. It is not by any means the cheapest place in town, but we would be fairly certain that however big the bill, you will leave feeling well satisfied. This has been around Warsaw longer than we have - since 1997, to be exact, which is a testament to how great it is. It’s a treat, so don’t miss out.QD‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 111, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 80 08, www.kredens. com.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. TUBE6W HALA GWARDII Hala Gwardii, the twin building of Hala Mirowska, has now returned to its pre-war roots and is once more a food market where you can peruse and buy specialty products or feast on local and imported foods from a big choice of food stalls. After the war, it served as a bus depot until eventually becoming a sports hall used by the military Sports Guard Club (from where the name originates). It’s a strange mix of things this new place. It feels like a less posh version of Hala Koszyki, a grimier version of Hala Mirowska (indeed, the exterior of the building is not in great shape!), and Nocny Market (night market) all thrown into the same mix. Despite the similarities, it’s neither of these things. To add to this eclectic mix, the interior contains a boxing ring, not just for show, but for training and events! The walls too are adorned with legends of the Polish boxing scene, a homage, if you will, to the building’s previous use. The choice of food is decent and worth exploring.QE‑6, Plac Żelaznej Bramy 1, MRondo ONZ, www.halagwardii.pl. Open Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00 only.

• new seasonal menu • modern Polish cuisine • original kitchen • a place with history and tradition

Foksal 17 Street Warsaw (near Nowy Świat Street) Reservations: rezerwacje@dobodo.pl + 48 22 699 74 73

78 Warsaw In Your Pocket

HALA KOSZYKI From the outset Hala Koszyki has managed to raise the love and hate hackles of the city’s ‘out on the town’ set. How many world cuisine eateries of various sizes can you squeeze into one space? Actually, fate may decide what you’ll eat as it’s almost impossible to get a table anywhere at most times of the day or night. Amazingly popular amongst the young and the beautiful, Hala K will probably remain THE place to be seen for some time to come - mainly because it’s easy to be seen due to its open plan layout. Top class little independent bistros sit next to some of Warsaw’s chain restaurants and the biggest restaurateurs including Mateusz Gessler’s gastronomic outpost - Warszawski Sen. The market area towards the back of the building has some brilliant and difficult to find products on offer, in reality, it’s small and plays second fiddle to the dining area. Even if you can’t find a table at any of the cool eateries and bars, we urge you to spend some time taking in this stunning market hall. Don’t forget to look up, down, sideways etc. as beautiful hidden details abound!QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 09:00 01:00. iyp.me/warsaw

Restaurants NOCNY MARKET (NIGHT MARKET) Nocny Market (Night Market) is a unique idea now in its 3rd year, bringing together many popular bars, cafes, restaurants and street food trucks into one location, Thu-Sun. And if that wasn’t enough, the location too is unique. Located on the platform of a disused train station (Warszawa Główna), you walk from stall to stall, truck to truck, with old train signs dotted around, and the platform now adorned with neon lights and artwork. A truly great place to eat, drink and chill out in good company. If you’re brave, you can also get a tattoo done in one of the stalls! To get there, take a tram from the centre (no. 7, 9, 22, 24 or 25) and get off at Pl. Zawiszy and walk toward the long alley with ‘Warszawa Główna’ emblazoned on the building. Alternatively, get the metro to Rondo Daszyńskiego and again take a tram (no. 1, 11, 22, 24 or 71) one stop to Pl. Zawiszy.QC‑9, ul.Towarowa 3, MRondo Daszyńskiego. Thu 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Open Thu-Sun. Closed Mon-Wed. OLÉ RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR Warsaw’s hankering for a fine steak shows no sign of abating with the highly respected Olé doubling in size by adding a new and more elegant dining room to the restaurant. The interior is calming and spacious with white and stone colours that blend well together. Step through into the quiet, elegant and more formal new space featuring a wall of wines and artwork hanging from the walls. The menu has been updated to offer international flavours with a hint of Spanish and Mediterranean flare, which includes delicious steaks from aged Polish and Japanese Wagyu Kobe beef. Hard to fault. Highly recommended.QG‑8, Plac Trzech Krzyży 18, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 519 87 57 67, www.ole-restaurant. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€€€. TBW NEW PRIME CUT Welcome to New York! Well, Warsaw really, but Prime Cut certainly has the Manhattan steakhouse with a European flair going, and it certainly doesn’t disappoint. The interior is modern but has touches of old techniques, which are spotted in the wood fire oven, great for steaks, and they also make their own baked goods, which just adds to the experience, and of course, the taste! If steak is not your thing, no problem, sea food and seasonal goods are also on offer. Prime Cut is not just a place for lunch and dinner, it’s a place to come if you’re keen on weekend nightlife, then especially for you, only available on Friday and Saturdays, they have introduced a special night menu to fuel you up right into the early morn! Quite the place.QE‑7, ul. Twarda 18, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 733 08 22 33, www. primecut.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:45, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat 17:00 - 06:00, Closed Sun. €€€€. BW RESTAURACJA KULTURA On the ground floor of Kino Kultura, and therefore commanding one of the greatest locations on all of Krakowskie, the Kultura makes good use of the space by serving food that lives up to its surroundings. Smart waitresses iyp.me/polandblog

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Restaurants

PLACE FULL OF BITS AND PIECES

hallsquare plenty indoor of choices /food chillout zone

exciting events indoor food hall / 19 great restaurants

19 great restaurants the longest Polish bar / beers & drinks

beers & drinks

sounds in circles / parties, concerts, recitals

speciality shops

FEEL THE WARSAW BEAT Visit Koszyki

63. Koszykowa Street 200 parking places 5 mins from Warsaw Central Station www.koszyki.com

80 Warsaw In Your Pocket

HalaKoszyki

whiz around the restaurant carrying plates of roasted duck to your table before presenting you with a bill that should, given the quality, be far higher. Breakfast is served 09:00-11:30, with prices from 8.50zł and Lunch of the day (soup, main and kompot) is only 27zł, served from 12:00-15:00.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 21/23, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 784 04 40 51, www.restauracjakultura.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. TBW RESTAURACJA PLATO You’re in for a treat with this place. Quite literally across the street from Wilanów Palace, Plato is a fantastic restaurant, which from first appearances looks quite inconspicuous, partly due to its location within a shopping complex, but appearances are often quite deceiving. Brought to you by the owners of Senses, one Poland’s Michelin restaurants (there are only two), this little gem had us more than surprised - we could find nothing to fault. Upon entering, it’s obvious the atmosphere is laid-back, the interior is calming, artwork for sale on the walls on one side, and a shop on the other selling Spanish wines. An important thing to note here - the chef is Michał Gniadek, formerly of Senses, who trained under Andrea Camastra. But this is not all, for Michał was recently crowned ‘young talent’ of the year by Gault & Millau, and Plato too received distinction! The food is wonderful, with a whole host of meats,sea food and desserts (check out the foie gras), and the service very professional, friendly and knowledgable. Trust us, it would be a shame to miss out on eating here if you’re in the area.QO‑2, ul. Franciszka Klimczaka 1, MWilanowska, tel. (+48) 600 20 66 02, www.restauracjaplato.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. €€€. TB6W STREFA RESTAURANT & BAR The award winning Strefa oozes old style glamour from the exterior and a cool, modern, whitewashed brick and pale colour scheme interior. Nothing is over the top and the more informal bar area compliments the stunningly designed restaurant room beautifully. The kitchen in the main restaurant specialises in a wide range of original signature dishes. The ambience, quality and standard of service more than justify the borderline high prices and as an added bonus they are also pet friendly! For an added bonus, check out the Mon-Fri lunch menu, consisting of soup, main dish and dessert for 35zł.QE‑7, ul. Próżna 9, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 255 08 50, www.restauracjastrefa.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. TUB6W THE COOL CAT This has become one of our favourite spots in the last year. With a hip and laid back atmosphere you might be fooled into thinking it’s just another hipster bar/cafe. A quick glance at the action packed menu though will take your taste buds on a tour through some truly original Asian influenced breakfasts, lunches and dinners. Start with Israeli shakshuka then graduate to a Korean pork bun served with bacon, chicken, tofu and crab. Take note: their speciality is ramen! Their exceptional coffee and alcohol selection mean that you can quite easily find an excuse to hang out here eating and drinking all day iyp.me/warsaw

Restaurants and night (guilty as charged). Don’t miss their three course lunch specials for 25zł and their weekend brunches (Asian, Mediterranean and Mexican), served on boards, all day for 30zł are nothing short of epic. They have a 2nd location on ul. Marszałkowska 8.QI‑7, ul. Solec 38, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 574 81 18 16. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. €€. T6W WARSZAWSKI SZNYT With possibly the best view of any restaurant in the city (Old town, Royal Castle and the Praga skyline!) this classy new restaurant revives pre-war Warsaw grandeur and injects it with some thoroughly modern accents. With an open kitchen on both levels of the restaurant, you can watch whatever Polish or international specialties you order come together in real time. Don’t overlook their oak fired grilled beef which are on display in specialty aging fridges. Sit upstairs and enjoy the gorgeous copper bar that churns out luxurious cocktails and drinks for just before or after your meal. They also have occasional live piano music and an exceptional weekday three course lunch special. QF‑4, ul. Senatorska 2, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 609 60 80 10, www.warszawskisznyt.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. €€€€€. TUBE6W WINESTONE The Mercure Hotel’s concept restaurant has proven itself a popular venue for the local business set. The name ‘Winestone’ comes from the menu’s selection of‘Les Planches’- dishes served on simple stone tablets, and the incredible range of fine wines in stock here. The menu also covers a range of seasonally changing international and French style dishes, as well as some modern interpretations of Polish classics. A lunch menu is available weekdays 12:00-15:00. Presentation is slick and the staff are wonderfully polite and professional. The relaxing and modern interior is perfectly unstuffy and features Warsaw’s must-have restaurant design element of the year - the open kitchen. There is also a shop for taking home olives, wine and bread of your own following your meal. (Also located on ul. Krucza 28 in the Mercure Warszawa Grand).QE‑8, ul. Złota 48/54, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 697 37 55, www.mercure.com. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€€€. TUBW

GREATEST SELECTION OF

Steaks, that exceed your expectations! Try them today!

ITALIAN MIŁOŚĆ There’s a lot to love about Miłość (love in Polish). This large two levelled café/eatery/club is really onto something with a slick Scandinavian-style retro bar, a raised DJ area with a wall of climbing greenery, and a bookcased space, complete with tatty rug, armchairs and a geometric coffee table, which makes you think of a professor’s reading room circa 1970. The food is fantastically eclectic and wonderfully inventive - lunch menu is served Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 for 19zł (soup and main dish). Upstairs you’ll find local indie record label Asfalt’s very own record shop. Warsaw’s nomadic artsy crowd are already flooding in.QF‑6, ul. Kredytowa 9, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 657 21 83. Open 12:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€. TBE6W iyp.me/polandblog

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Restaurants MICHELIN-STARRED Even those who only have a fleeting interest in gastronomy will know what it means for a restaurant to be recognised by the Michelin guide. In Warsaw, and indeed Poland, the first ever star to be awarded to a Polish restaurant occurred in 2013 with Atelier Amaro’s gastronomical efforts quite rightly recognised for the fine dining experience they offer. Just 3 years later, Senses became only the 2nd restaurant in Poland to be awarded a star for their fantastic modern take on Polish dishes. We at IYP unashamedly flaunt the fact that the capital is home to the country’s only Michelinstarred venues. SENSES In March 2016 Senses became the second restaurant in Poland to receive a Michelin star. This is a testament to the truly innovative work Head chef Andrea Camastra has done developing his tasting menus steeped in the culinary traditions and produce of Poland. His dynamic, uncompromising and experimental approach in achieving his vision have taken Polish cuisine to unprecedented levels. Having done away with a la carte menus all together, Senses now offer three different tasting menus - Piccolo (320zł, served Mon-Thu), Medio (410zł) and Grande (530zł), both of which are served all week. The interior masterfully blends the feeling of the surrounding architecture and the attention to detail is mind-boggling. Prepare to have your senses blown away.QE‑5, ul. Bielańska 12, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 331 96 97, www.sensesrestaurant.pl. Open 18:00 - 21:45. Closed Sun. €€€€€. W ATELIER AMARO It’s not hyperbole to call Atelier Amaro one of Poland’s most modern restaurants, being the first to land a coveted Michelin star. All the credit goes to famed chef and owner Wojciech Modest Amaro, who describes the cuisine as “where nature meets science.” That ‘science’ is molecular gastronomy, which means almost nothing is as it seems: an amuse-bouche arrives on the table with a flourish of dry ice fog, revealing caviar atop a surprisingly citrusy foam. Meals can be 6 (290 zł MonThu) or 9 (380 zł) “moments” and employ traditional Polish plants like nettles and beetroot in unexpected, highly creative dishes – the menu changes almost daily. An absolute must for diehard foodies (children under 14 years of age are not allowed any day). On Fri, the restaurant lunches are served 12:00-15:00 (last order at 13:30), so best get there early or put up with the crushing disappointment of missing out.QH‑11, ul. Agrykola 1, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 57 47, www.atelieramaro.pl. Open Mon - Sat 18:00 24:00. Fri open for lunches 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From September open Tue - Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Wed Sat open for lunches 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun, Mon. €€€€€. UW 82 Warsaw In Your Pocket

PIAZZA RISTORANTE We’ve been humbled by the proliferation of top quality eateries opening in shopping centres recently. You can be forgiven for thinking that a restaurant in such a place doesn’t warrant consideration, but we can confidently say this is a misconception. Get that image of nothing more than a food court out of your mind! Piazza Ristorante is located right at the entrance to the classy Plac Unii shopping centre, with a great view out onto the square with the same name. The interior is Italian in style, with a modern touch, but we really do recommend trying to have a view outside and watch the world go by in the charming square. We put Piazza to the test with a starter, main and dessert, and each course just got better as they appeared in front of us. The grilled halloumi cheese is worth particular mention, and pizza fans (myself included) will be pleased with the thin and crispy dough. Sea food lovers will like the halibut with a choice of purées from cauliflower, mango salsa, chilli, pomegranate and cucumber, to name a few. Friendly staff, great location and easy to get to on trams 4, 35 or bus 501, from the centre. Recommended.QG‑12, ul. Puławska 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 204 04 83, www.piazzaristorante.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. €€€. TBW SEXY DUCK Arriving pretty early in the day at 12.30, imagine our surprise to find the place a packed, feeding frenzy of customers with the fantastic smell of Italian cooking and fresh herbs in the air plus the incessant natter of happy eaters. We had to check our watches to make sure it wasn’t late evening! The two level interior ticks all the boxes in terms of nicely done rustic/ semi-industrial design, that, while certainly nice, is really starting to feel a bit ‘old hat’ around town. As well as a list of pizza & pasta dishes, all beautifully presented in a truly rustic manner. Duck actually does make quite a few appearances on the menu so we’ll forgive the slightly daffy name!QG‑10, Plac Konstytucji 3, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 400 37 37. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€. TB6W SPACCA NAPOLI It’s exciting when someone dares to take a different approach to the mass of Italian eateries in Warsaw. Spacca Napoli’s restaurant and deli menus are rooted in the culinary traditions of Naples and at first glance the starters, pizzas and pasta dishes may look predictable, but it certainly manages to throw in a number of unique options. Try an orzo salad - pearl barley, aubergine, courgette, carrots, olive oil and mint, or go for a classic Neapolitan mulignana pizza. They also now offer fresh seafood and fish dishes. They’re also pretty slick when it comes to the social and family atmosphere of true Italian restaurants, the lovely staff may as well pull up a pew and join in with your conversation.QE‑7, ul. Świętokrzyska 30, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 127 93 99, www.spaccanapoli.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€. TUB6W TRATTORIA DA ANTONIO Sicilian born chef Antonio Centurrino has been a fixture in Warsaw’s Italian culinary scene for as long as we can remember and his fans will be delighted with his latest iyp.me/warsaw

Restaurants venture on ul. Żurawia. There are four spacious and elegant rooms that have recently been given the royal treatment. Being Italian, family plays an important role in the proceedings, so one of the rooms is kitted out as a play room for kids. Their comprehensive menu features some house specials alongside tried and true classics. New location on Al. Jerozolimskie 119.QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 18, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 625 54 17, www.trattoriadaantonio.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TB6W VENTI-TRE At the risk of sounding like a broken record we’ll say once more; some of Warsaw’s finest meals are to be had in hotel restaurants, and this upscale eatery proves no different. An open plan kitchen and giant glass windows allow for a more informal atmosphere than in other five stars, while the wood-fired oven knocks out pizzas that rise well above the high street standard. Try their business lunch buffet Mon-Fri 12:00 - 15:30 and Sunday brunches. They even have their own apiaryon the roof which is where they get their fresh Łazienki Gold honey from which they serve at breakfast. QI‑13, ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Warsaw Hotel), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 558 10 94, www.regentwarsaw.com. Open 06:30 - 23:00. €€€€. TUBW

JAPANESE BENIHANA From humble beginnings in New York, ‘Rocky’ Aoki opened his first Japanese restaurant in 1964. The chain has now grown to over 130 restaurants worldwide. Following in the style of the chain, Benihana Warsaw is a stylish and modern eatery with a rich black and red colour scheme. The front section features a Japanese/Asian restaurant area and cool cocktail bar, but venture to the back section to experience Benihana’s famed teppanyaki grill tables where highly skilled and entertaining English speaking chefs will slice, grill and season your order in front of your eyes. Being based in the Helmut Jahn designed Cosmopolitan skyscraper, we suggest you order one of their Japanese inspired, sake based Cosmopolitan cocktails to sip with your meal.QE‑7, ul. Twarda 4, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 370 26 20, www.benihanapoland.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€€€. TU6W SOTO SUSHI Warsaw’s Sushi glitterati have always rated the original Soto Sushi on Al. KEN very highly indeed, with many devotees regularly making the pilgrimage to deepest, darkest Ursynów in order to visit their favourite shrine. Well, now they don’t need to bother, Soto have opened another branch in the centre of the city! The crisp white and minimal interior highlighted with pale green neon wall lighting makes for a rather sterile look which made me think of those ultra-violet fly zappers in butcher’s shops, probably just my overactive imagination though. On the other hand, the overall look of this sushi bar presents a feeling of cleanliness and order which is reflected in the beautifully presented and carefully prepared sushi. iyp.me/polandblog

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Restaurants STEAK

Beef n’ Pepper

BEEF N’ PEPPER Hidden away in a small alleyway alongside the famous Roma Theatre, the exterior may well look like you’re about to enter a 1970’s shopping mall diner outside Lubbock TX, but inside it’s a smart, urban steakhouse and bar. Expect top grade Polish cattle (28 days wetaged) - the quality is excellent and the fact that they use the finest local meat means that prices are surprisingly reasonable. Seafood options and Louisiana Chicken Wings struggle for a look-in as beef rules in this kingdom. In addition to a fine wine list, the slick bar also has a brilliant selection of whiskies and bourbons. QF‑9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 785 02 50 25, www.beefandpepper.pl. Open 12:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€€. TB6W BUTCHERY & WINE A wonderful addition to the Warsaw dining scene winning points for originality and simplicity. This bright, modern, relaxed venue has an open kitchen and enough wine on display to float a battleship. The menu features aaa range of real steaks prepared exactly to order and served on wooden boards with additional sauce and side options.QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 22/20, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 502 31 18, www. butcheryandwine.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 20:00. €€€€. TBW MERLINIEGO Restaurants using their address as a name tend to be pretty special and Merliniego is a damn good example of that rule. Well known for their steaks and seafoods the menu also includes some excellent Polish highlights like duck and lamb loin. Steaks include black Angus rib eye (imported from Ottomanelli & Sons of New York) and the staggeringly pricey +9 Wagyu Kobe. The two level interior is rich in deep colours, raw brickwork and exotic woods. Marvel at the vast wine display as you enter. Michelin recommended in both 2017 and 2018, enough said!.QH‑16, ul. Merliniego 5, MWierzbno, tel. (+48) 696 16 90 90, www.merliniego.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€€. TBW 84 Warsaw In Your Pocket

The salmon tartare gunkanmaki is yummy and a special mention has to be made for the killer lemon pepper shrimp soup.QG‑10, ul. Waryńskiego 28, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 501 60 88 06, www.sotosushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TB6W UKI UKI Who would have thought it? A Japanese place in Warsaw and it’s not a sushi bar! Well, that’s not strictly true, there is a short sushi selection on the menu but their speciality is freshly made udon or ramen noodles served in pork or fish broth with a variety of accompaniments; Tempura shrimp, stewed pork etc. Watch head chef Taira Matsuki and his skilled team preparing the dishes in the open kitchen and chat with the enthusiastic staff about the ritual of eating your noodles. Prepare yourself for a strenuous workout while grinding your sesame seeds with a traditional Japanese mortar and pestle.QG‑9, ul. Krucza 23/31, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 428 26 96, www.ukiuki.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€. B6W

MEDITERRANEAN AÏOLI CANTINE Turning communist-era commercial space into an appealing dining destination is no easy illusion, but Aioli’s urban canteen aesthetic turns the trick with aplomb. Dominated by two large circular bars - one around the kitchen hung with colanders and racks of prosciutto, the other an actual drink bar ringed with wine glasses - wooden furnishings dressed with fresh herbs do much to dispel the brick and concrete, while excellent service further elevates the atmosphere. The short menu of salads, sandwiches, pasta and pizza, plus some great breakfasts (daily from 09:00 12:00) for only 1zł (provided you buy a coffee with it), makes the most of each option by including tantalising ingredients (many of which you can take home in jars) and the prices are very reasonable. 2nd location on ul. Chmielna 26.QF‑7, ul. Świętokrzyska 18, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 657 21 26, www.aioli-cantine.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. €€€. TUB6W NEW L’AVANTI RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR There are two things to know about L’avanti before you go: 1. This is a nice day-time restaurant. 2. It’s a great evening venue where you get a private barman serving you drinks and making cocktails. I could continue with my numbered list of preferences, but where’s the fun in that? Focusing on daytime, you have a choice of Mediterranean dishes mixed with a European/Polish flare. We went for tagiatelle with seasonal chantarelle mushrooms with Parma ham and white wine sauce, and a pizza for good measure too (nice thin base). The desserts deserve special mention, with the crumbs on our laps proof of the gluttony which overtook us. QE‑7, ul. Grzybowska 5, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 299 30 08, www.lavanti.pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. TBW iyp.me/warsaw

It’s not a movie!

IT’S REAL

BLACK BURGER Black Real Burgers N 'Bar is the ﬁrst casual dining restaurant and cocktail bar to open in Poland by the popular restaurant chain in Israel. We specialize in hand-made burgers available in many combinations of different sizes, buns, sauces and toppings!

OPE- 1N0 pm 10 am

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Arkadia Shopping Center, Warsaw +48 22 351 98 20 www.blackrealburger.pl

Restaurants ORZO PEOPLE MUSIC NATURE Originally AïOLI Mini on Plac Konstytucji (yes, originally the sister venue for Warsaw’s popular AïOLI Cantine), Orzo has branched out to do its own thing! Flying the coup, Orzo’s interior is a warm, chirpy, neo-industrial space and a great place to come for some grub. The reasonably-priced and large portioned menu offers breakfasts (daily from 09:00 - 12:00, ask about coffee specials), lunches (Mon-Fri 12:00 - 17:00,19.90zł), burgers, salads, pastas, pizzas, tapas and cocktails. Orzo has a great variety without skimping back on quality!QG‑10, Pl. Konstytucji 5, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 629 25 40, www.orzo.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. €€€. T6W RESTAURACJA OLIVA Take a well-deserved break from the racket of Nowy Świat and visit this unpretentious yet smart, light and airy restaurant on the quiet ul. Ordynacka. The Mediterranean based menu includes a healthy dose of homemade pasta dishes which are created to their own recipes. As the name suggests, the menu is strongly influenced by the use of olive oil and the restaurant also has a display of fine olive oils from a number of countries for sale. Staff get full marks from us for neither pretending to be your best mate, nor seeing you as their worst enemy - they get it just right. Considering the ambience and quality, prices are excellent. QG‑7, ul. Ordynacka 10/12, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 70 60, www.restauracjaoliva.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. €€€. TB6W

MIDDLE EASTERN DOM FARAONA With a great city centre location just off Nowy Świat (which leads to the Old Town), Dom Faraona (The Pharaoh’s House) is a great Egyptian restaurant providing dishes from the grill, vegetarian and Halal options. On top of that they have a variety of flavoured Shisha and a big selection of alcohols in their bar - what’s not to like?! The atmosphere is homely and friendly, and the service even friendlier, which makes you think if it’s all for show, but it’s not, it’s genuine. The staff obviously take pride in their restaurant and want you to enjoy it as much as they do. The taste of the food is wow - lovers of Hummus, Baba Ghanoug, Mosakaa, and grilled meats will not be disappointed. Every so often, on Fri & Sat 20:00-22:00 you may be lucky to see a Belly Dance show! All in, the prices won’t leave moths eating through your wallet.QG‑7, ul. Ordynacka 13, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 575 82 00 08, www.dom-faraona. com/restauracja-egipska. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. €€€. TUBW NEW LOKANTA Lokanta certainly feels a nice place to be, especially after the recent refit, and right in the heart of the city centre too. Starting with a glitzy neon entrance, these guys have maintained (for a good few years now) Poland’s love affair with all things orient, and part of their image makeover 86 Warsaw In Your Pocket

sees the launch of Turkish style dance parties – a right hip-wiggle fest if ever we saw. Nevertheless, the bread and butter of Lokanta remains the food, and you’ll find the full ensemble of traditional dishes making their way out of wood-fired ovens and charcoal grills. Check out the decent lunch menu, served daily 12:00-16:00, costing maximum 25zł.QF‑9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 585 10 04, www.lokanta.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. €€€. TBW SOKOTRA The restaurant takes its name from the isolated Yemeni island of Sokotra, a geographic location once described as “the most alien-looking place on earth.” Warsaw’s Sokotra is neither isolated nor alien-looking, it’s situated in the city centre and its interior is a cool modernist take on the simplest of Arabic design. Traditional Yemeni cuisine is heavily influenced by Indian, reflected by the heavy, rich and well-seasoned sauces with most of the dishes here - ideal for some serious roti dipping. The lentil, lemon and green chilli soup was stunning and the mutton, okra and tomato dish was great. There’s standard table dining if you’ve just had your hip replaced, or try the cushioned floor sitting area for an even more authentic experience. QG‑9, ul. Wilcza 27, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 270 27 66. Open 12:00 - 21:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:30. €€. TU B6W

POLISH ALEGLORIA Magnificent, enjoyably over-the-top restaurant in the finest part of Warsaw where the strawberry-themed decor appears amazingly at home and where the modern Polish Fusion cuisine - often featuring strawberries and goose specialties - will leave you determined to come back for more. It is rare that a restaurant can so seamlessly present the pure pleasure and simplicity of Polish cuisine while at the same time elevating it to world-class gourmet standards. AleLujah!QH‑9, Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 584 70 80, www.alegloria.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€€. TUB W AMBER ROOM Set inside the Sobański Palace what was (and indeed still is) the domain of the Polish Business Round Table Club has now opened its doors to the paying public. From the outside it looks the sort of place you’d see Prince Charles walking around shaking hands, though inside, and in spite of the marble and chandeliers, it’s a well designed area with more than a nod to modernist touches. The seasonal menu includes such must-haves as Leg of lamb, baby vegetables, peas, onion, lamb jus. Has Polish cuisine ever sounded so exciting? Of course, such pleasures aren’t cheap, but then neither are they in the astronomic zone you’d be likely to presume.QH‑10, Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. (+48) 22 523 66 64, www.amber-room.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€€. TBW iyp.me/warsaw

Restaurants BELVEDERE Nestled inside Łazienki Park, Belvedere is a romantic orangery filled with foliage and a smattering of welldressed tables both inside and out. Having undergone a head to toe renovation, the Belvedere is a stunningly dramatic venue with peacocks wandering the grounds and multiple waiters offering first class service. The food lives up to the atmosphere, and a menu overhaul thanks to chef Sebastian Olma means you’ll have a variety of new dishes to choose from. Your options include a weekday lunch menu (called the Bellunch menu) consisting of a 2 course set for 71zł or 3 course set for 81zł, a weekend a la carte option, and Sunday lunch for 129zł (kids menu also available). Few places in Warsaw are this classy or this expensive, and dare we say women are right to assume a booking here means something big is in order.QI‑12, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in Łazienki Park, entrance from ul. Parkowa), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 558 67 00, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€€€. TBEW BRASSERIE WARSZAWSKA From the fine folks behind the peerless Butchery & Wine comes Brasserie Warszawska - a culinary capstone that will surely court the attention of the folks at Michelin. Praise is well-deserved here with exquisitely prepared and presented cuisine matched by expert service in an interior that feels both modern and classic at the same time. In fact, it’s an accessible type of elegant that means no ties are necessary, so come as you are to sample this mix of Polish and international cuisine. A fine range of cocktails is available to wash down with your food. The à la carte menu is on offer all day, the lunch menu 12:00 - 16:00 Mon-Fri and supper menu 17:00 - 22:00 Mon-Sat. Please note, there is a ‘technical break’ between 16:00 - 17:00 and no orders are taken.QI‑9, ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. (+48) 22 628 94 23, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. €€€€. TUBW CAFE MOZAIKA Mozaika was, until recently, a legendary restaurant of the communist era. It battled on through the changes in Poland and refused to budge from its old school ways - an admirable stance, but one which needed a bit of a kick in the behind in order to keep up with the constantly changing city. The new owner has brilliantly managed to fuse the old and the new, not only in the restaurant’s design but also with the zappy traditional Polish menu and a separate range of Mediterranean dishes. Hip and cool it may be but they have also managed not to ostracise the former clientele. Saturdays 70’s-80’s Disco evenings are enormous fun, with elderly ladies and gentlemen gyrating on the dance floor, while bearded and tatted hipsters sit around picking at mezze dishes while sipping on craft beers and fine wines. A modern Warsaw rarity where all types of people mix easily and everyone feels at home. QH‑14, ul. Puławska 53, tel. (+48) 884 80 87 73, www. restauracjamozaika.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €€. TUBEW 88 Warsaw In Your Pocket

CUD MIÓD Cud Miód is certainly keen on having something for everyone. The interior is a mix of rustic Polish/European elements with some modern style fittings. The menu is an odd mix; a host of traditionally based Polish dishes, Mediterranean offerings, seafood, fusion, burgers, pizza, pasta and even curry pops up on the list. A casual and attractive venue particularly suited to those who can peruse this type of menu and not change their minds every 30 seconds!QF‑9, ul. Emilii Plater 28 (entrance from ul. Nowogrodzka 56), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 630 30 39, www.cudmiod.pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €€€. TUB6W CZERWONY WIEPRZ Workers of the world unite around a large choice of wellpresented Socialist Bloc cuisine. Deriving its name from a former meeting place for members of the early communist movement, legend has it that even Lenin paid this place a visit in 1909. The interior is based on the style favoured by the 1950’s -1960’s party elite, and the walls are bedecked with memorabilia of the era. Somehow the owners have managed to carefully side swerve tackiness and the whole experience has a lovely, faded and nostalgic glam to it. Immensely popular with locals and tourists alike (including Bruce Willis, Lennox Lewis and the Real Madrid football squad), 2012 saw ‘The Hog’ voted one of the 25 best and most interesting restaurants in the world by the Spanish Trade Leaders’ Club.QC‑7, ul. Żelazna 68, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 850 31 44, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TUBW DAWNE SMAKI It’s great to find a traditional Polish restaurant amongst the endless string of international eateries on Nowy Świat. Dawne Smaki thrives on old style Polish cooking, so get ready to sample a comprehensive range of home-grown specialities. The whole spectrum is pretty much covered, from the basics like herrings in oil, pig’s trotters in aspic, pierogi, right up to some high class mains like loin of venison and hand chopped steak tartare. Of note is their cart containing slow food. Find Kasztelan and Grimbergen beers on tap, plus live music every night and “theme” nights starting at 19:30. Private parties can rent a VIP space too. QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 49, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 465 83 20, www.dawnesmaki.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. TUB E6W DO BO DO Those of you dining in Warsaw are in for a bit of a treat with Do Bo Do, and not just because of the food (fantastic in itself, we’ll get to that in a moment), but this address, ul. Foksal 17, has gone down in Varsovian history as a bit of a classic. It was here, in what was then known as the classy ul. Pierackiego, that Eugeniusz Bodo, actor, comedian and film director of the interwar period, opened the classic ‘Cafe Bodo’ (later ‘Cafe Snob’) where celebrities of the day would stop by. Now, with the history of this place in mind, iyp.me/warsaw

Restaurants

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August â&#x20AC;&#x201C; September 2018 89

Restaurants the interior design reflects the style of the 1930s. It fits well. And now, avid reader, the food... wow. The menu consists of Polish cuisine with a modern flare, more to point, the chef’s own touch, so the dishes themselves have an artistic flair. Now, to come here, you can choose starters, soups and mains, with starters and mains consisting of fish, vegetables and meets which look stunning, but the desserts look so wonderful it feels a shame to destroy them with cutlery! Highly recommended.QG‑7, ul. Foskal 17, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 699 74 73, www.dobodo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. TB6W DOM POLSKI Much ink has been spilt over the virtues of Dom Polski, some of it in these pages, but there is no getting away from the fact that this is a great restaurant. And quite right to say that as it’s been in business for nearly 20 years - 2018 marks this milestone. Found in a discreet villa on Warsaw’s millionaires’ row you can expect Rolls Royce service from the minute you walk in. The food is equally good, chosen from a menu which is mercifully short, with just a couple of starters and several main courses to choose from; how it should be, in other words. We went for the żurek followed by the potato pancakes with smoked salmon and red caviar and couldn’t fault a thing. Sunday brunches are available 13:00-16:30 for 89zł (by prior arrangement). QL‑7, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 22 616 24 32, www. restauracjadompolski.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. €€€€. TBW

TIPPING TRIBULATIONS Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuję,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and the payment. Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity). As such, we encourage you to reward good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change. 90 Warsaw In Your Pocket

DOM POLSKI BELWEDERSKA This is the second location of one of Warsaw’s most venerable, trusted and exclusive Polish restaurants. Achieving the seemingly impossible, they’ve succeeded in making their second outing even more elegant and inviting than the first. The pristine interiors correspond perfectly to the carefully manicured menu of Polish classics - emphasis on ‘class.’ The goose liver mousse with fruits and hot blackberry jam is a clear standout, as are the wild game mains with extra points for the sumptuous saddle of venison served with plum dumplings and cherry sauce. Simply extravagant.QI‑13, ul. Belwederska 18A, MPole Mokotowskie, tel. (+48) 22 840 50 60, www. restauracjadompolski.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. €€€€. TBW ELIXIR BY DOM WÓDKI When we first heard of Elixir we instinctively thought, surely someone has already thought of this? Unbelievably, nobody had - so, top marks to the masterminds behind this classy establishment. At their Vodka Atelier you can try over 500 vodkas from around Poland and the globe; the range goes from PRL era classics to Polish ‘small batch’ distillers, designer vodkas, flavoured vodkas and culminates in the staggeringly priced “Młody Ziemniak 2009”(480zł a pop!). The restaurant itself features stunningly presented, contemporary takes on Polish classics with a “food pairing” system which recommends specific vodkas to complement the ingredients and flavours of each dish. iyp.me/warsaw

Restaurants An Absolut (pardon the pun!) top-spot and a truly unique venue on Warsaw’s culinary map.QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 11, www. domwodki.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TBW FLORIAN OGIEŃ CZY WODA Transport yourself back to the 19th century and gorge yourself on traditional Polish fare. The cream, grey and white coloured rooms on the ground floor are bedecked with antiques, paintings, all forms of dried flora and various bits and bobs. Luckily, Florian manages to stay just the right side of being overly stuffed with such decorative items, making it an ideal place to savour dishes from both their ‘Water’ (fish and other lighter fare) and ‘Fire’ (spicier dishes) menus. If you are looking for a bit more privacy they also have an 20 person VIP room. The attic “pub” is warm and welcoming with a 200 year old fireplace hearth, which doubles as a bread and gourmet smalec station. The building itself is quite interesting, having been originally built by General Wilhelm Mier as a barracks for the Szwoleżerów guard way back in the early 18th century.QD‑6, ul. Chłodna 3, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 620 93 98, www.florian.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00- 23:00. €€€. XTBWY FOLK GOSPODA Far from promising on the outside, Folk Gospoda unravels on entry as a glorious slice of traditional Poland. It’s inside a rugged interior of stout furnishings and ceramic pots you’ll find boys and girls in peasant attire rushing around carrying plates of fortifying Polish food (think heaps of duck). Indeed, the Polish highlands meet the city inside Gospoda, and that’s never more so than when the band strikes up to hoot and holler over the sound of busy diners. On weekends the restaurant thoughtfully employs a kids corner with child minders from 13:00 - 18:00 so you can properly focus on your food. They also offer 15% off all take away orders.QD‑7, ul. Waliców 13, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 890 16 05, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€. TUBW GOŚCINIEC POLSKIE PIEROGI Walking towards the Old Town, you’re going to feel an air of nostalgia come over you. The location is stunning, the buildings have their unique style, and this whole area sums up the traditional romantic image of Poland. To top it off, you’re going to want to try some traditional Polish grub, right? Gościniec has just that, right at the entrance to the Old Town, with hearty food from soups, pierogi, potato pancakes and various meat offerings, all at very reasonable prices. You can’t go wrong with pierogi, but we’d personally also recommend the cabbage rolls stuffed with meat! The drinks on offer too are quite funky, from cold to warm options, all served up by the friendly staff wearing traditional Polish attire! Their 2nd restaurant is deeper into the Old Town on Podwale 19, should you choose to venture onward before eating.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 29, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 273 69 36, www. gosciniec.waw.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 24:00. €. TB6 iyp.me/polandblog

August – September 2018 91

Restaurants KUCHNIA WARSZAWSKA Located on the first floor of the Logos Hotel, a cold war period oddity filled with the character of that era, Kuchnia Warszawska is a brilliantly hidden away gem serving classics of Warsaw cuisine. The restaurant interior has been tastefully refitted and the pale colour scheme makes it all wonderfully airy and fresh. Considering the extremely reasonable prices, the elegant, friendly and professional staff, excellent local dishes and attention to detail (the steak tatare is minced fresh table side by one of their Chefs), these guys are seriously punching above their weight. For an added surprise, ask to see the private hire room - a full on and original, late 1960’s PRL meeting room with amazing views of the Vistula Riverbank.QI‑6, Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 31/33, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 730 77 89 22, www.kuchnia-warszawska.pl. Open 06:30 - 20:00, Lunch is served Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00 for 20zł. €€. TUE6W LITERATKA Located in the shadow of Zygmunt’s column on the Warsaw’s poshest street, Literatka is a traditional Polish restaurant with a cosy feel and an impressive range of Polski and international dishes. Pierogi, pork and duck all make an appearance as well as a more than acceptable sirloin steak. It’s not bad at all and a suitable way to finish a day ploughing the tourist trail in the adjacent old town, and the Mon-Fri lunch special (12:00-17:00 soup and a main for 19zl) is a deal.QF‑4, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89 (second entrance from ul. Senatorska 3), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 30 54, www.literatka.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €€€. TBE6W MOKOTOWSKA 69 Every Varsovian is familiar with the funny little round, folly of a building situated at the Plac Trzech Krzyży end of ul. Mokotowska. Part space station, part rustic farm building it was home to the German restaurant, Adler, for as long as anyone can remember. Times change though and under the new ownership of Merliniego 5’s steak kings, Andrzej Rudnicki-Sipayłło and Bartek Czerwiński, it has reopened as an elegant little restaurant serving up an inspired menu of traditionally influenced Polish cuisine. The seasonal menu does not shy away from some more unusual Polish offerings like breaded calf’s brain, Mazurian catfish sauteed with horseradish and paradise apples, or Mazurian crayfish. The less adventurous are also well catered for and, with Andrzej and Bartek at the controls, their world class steaks and the brilliantly selected wine list are never far from your thoughts.QH‑9, ul. Mokotowska 69, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 628 73 84, www.mokotowska69.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€€. UB6W

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 92 Warsaw In Your Pocket

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Restaurants MOMU MOMU has reshaped its image entirely and have almost literally rebuilt their kitchen around an imported American Southern smoker. Now they specialise in grilled and smoked meats, fish, fruit and even cheeses. Their smoker is fed daily by freshcut aromatic wood from the Łomianki forest outside Warsaw. The smoked theme carries over to the cocktail menu as the skilful bartenders whip up creative cocktails using savoury and spicy smoked ingredients (their wine, beer and whiskey selection is also sublime). The slightly austere white brick interiors are compensated for by the colourful pallet of the dishes on offer. The staff are casual, quick and eager to make your visit a memorable one. You surely won’t forget the place once you’ve listened to the live music available Fri & Sat 20:00-23:00.QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11 (entrance from Pl. Teatralny), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 506 10 00 01, www.momu.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:30. €€€. TUBE6W PRODIŻ WARSZAWSKI This restaurant takes its name from a cult piece of PRL era kitchen equipment, the Prodiż - a plug in, one pot pressure cooker/broiler that any self respecting family simply had to have. In the restaurant, one has been converted into a lamp and hangs on the brick lined walls. Other vintage items like enamelware mugs and demijohns add to the decor and rather than looking tacky, look more like the work of an obsessive and focussed collector. The Polish menu doesn’t mess about and doesn’t attempt to ‘fix what ain’t broken’, so expect expertly prepared and well presented Polish classics, as well as some hardcore traditional dishes like veal shank with mushrooms over vegetable purée or duck breast over cherry sauce with baked potatoes and apples. No lounge/chill-out music here and they’re open until the last customer (seriously!) so be ready to open your minds to Polish hits of the 1950s-60s!QF‑9, ul. Poznańska 16, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 127 71 71, www.prodizwarszawski.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. B6W RESTAURACJA POD GIGANTAMI Housed in a stunning building, designed by Władysław Marconi in 1904, this opulent and exclusive restaurant takes its name – Under the Giants – from the two huge sandstone figures which serve as pillars around the main entrance. The four dining rooms are sumptuously arranged and decorated with original portraits of Polish nobility and antique furniture - even some of the parquet floor is over 250 years old and was saved for the building after the demolition of Warsaw’s Tarnowski Palace in 1898. A giant of the culinary arts is also in control of the kitchen, Mr. Paweł Zieliński, a man who breathes new life into classically based Polish and French style dishes with his fresh, modern approach and strict attention to detail. QH‑9, Al. Ujazdowskie 24, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 23 12, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. From September open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. TW iyp.me/polandblog

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Restaurants RESTAURACJA RÓŻANA A two-floor pre-war villa full of chichi touches, flowers and crockery. Very pretty, but you’ll soon learn they attract return customers on account of the cooking, not the interiors. The setting might look high-end but the prices are certainly not, and you’ll find Różana recognised across the city as one of the best dinner deals around. The catfish fillet with white onion sauce, green pepper sauce with blanched spinach, garlic and black lentils is divine. Plenty claim to be open till the last customer leaves, but only these guys are the real deal – if there’s people dining then the kitchen will stay open, and that doesn’t matter if it’s midnight or daybreak. Don’t be shy to stay and eat, the staff are happy to make sure you are 100% satisfied with your visit. Highly recommended.QH‑13, ul. Chocimska 7, MPole Mokotowskie, tel. (+48) 22 848 12 25, www. restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. TBEW STARA KAMIENICA Located in a secessionist-era townhouse in the city centre, at first glance, Stara Kamienica comes across as a 1920’s furnished and dark wood detailed traditional restaurant. Chandeliers, vases of fresh flowers, chintzy curtains, art deco mirrors and subdued lighting give the venue a quiet, old-world charm but it’s also more than that; changing art exhibitions, daily live music starting at 19:00 and an interesting menu of traditional Polish and European classic dishes with a modern twist. Stop in during the day to try their lunch menu Mon-Fri 12:0016:00.QG‑8, ul. Widok 8, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 114 43 33, www.stara-kamienica.com.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€. E6W U BARSSA The Old Town is packed with standard places to eat, but has traditionally been something of a desert when it comes to great places to eat. Times are a-changing. As you walk into the elegant dining room you will discover a world of luxury, craft and privilege. The Angus steak with green pepper sauce and truffle powder, and the signature duck a la Barssa baked with apples, cranberries and plum sauce accompanied by beet konfiture, caramelised apples and orange sauce are just a few of the treats you can expect, and we have yet to mention the wine list! They also have a huge summer garden and they offer live music on the weekends (occasionally midweek) so call ahead before you wine & dine to reserve your space in this charming place. QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 24 76, www.ubarssa.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00. €€€€. TBEW U FUKIERA The most famous restaurant in town with a guestbook that speaks for itself; Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson are a few of the names who’ve taken a seat here. The interior is a work of art, crowded with paintings and antiques, it’s hard not to feel a part of history when dining here. The food is the perfect indulgence with 94 Warsaw In Your Pocket

perfectly presented game dishes. This is a truly fine dining experience right in the heart of Warsaw’s Old Town. Enjoy the great food and soak up the atmosphere.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 10 13, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. TBW WARSZAWA WSCHODNIA Not content with running a rather large number of restaurants in the city centre, the Gessler clan set their sights on the never-quite-rejuvenated area of post-industrial Praga with this popular venture in the trendy Soho Factory complex. One of the two main brick walled rooms is vast, the smaller room has a central kitchen area which diners sit around and watch the frantic goings-on of the chefs at work (there is also a third room available plus a VIP room by reservation only). Ultimately, this ‘island’ eating concept is rather irritating, noisy and a tad ‘aromatic’ in our opinion. Mind you, none of that stops the young, rich and beautiful from piling in here. The kitchen, under the command of Robert Kondziela, presents a modern take on Polish classics and contemporary French cuisine, and serves it ‘round the clock.QM‑4, ul. Mińska 25 (Praga Południe), MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 22 870 29 18. Open 24hrs. €€€. TUBE6W WIENIAWA BISTRO BAR As Warsaw continues to become a revitalised, vibrant European city, it may be hard to fathom, but there was a time, in inter-war Poland, when a country so long under the control of foreign powers, regained its independence and confidence, and in the 1920s especially, people expressed themselves in the arts & culture - it was a classy time to be around. Warsaw in this time was a hotbed of wow, it was the era of Mieczysław Fogg, the likes of Eugeniusz Bodo et al. That time is gone, never to return, however, in a place like Wieniawa, located in a fantastic old building, you can relive a piece of those heady days. The menu harks back to simple but good Polish foods with a modern touch, the interior feel of the bar throws you right back to those days of exuberance. This is a place to come and experience ‘the Polish soul’ of those times. QG‑7, ul. Zgoda 4, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 57 64 67, www.cksanacja.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00. €. TB6W ZAPIECEK Packed at all hours, this pierogi kitchen assumes the ‘Grandmother’s country cottage’ look, with pots and pans hanging from every shelf, and lots of hard timber touches. Much talked about, their deliciously light dough pockets come with all the fillings you can imagine. If you don’t fancy a sit down then check their street-level takeaway window for lunch-on-the-run. Also at Al. Jerozolimskie 28 (G-8), ul. Freta 18 (F-3), ul. Wańkowicza 1 (Kabaty), ul. Freta 1 (F-3), ul. Świętojańska 13 (F-4), and ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 55 (G-5).QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 64, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 692 41 35, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. €€. TB iyp.me/warsaw

Restaurants

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August â&#x20AC;&#x201C; September 2018 95

Restaurants QUICK EATS Your body might be a temple, but there comes a time when even the leanest of machines needs to be filled with burgers, chips and calories. Here we list some great little quick eat places, all in the aim of dissing the familiar fast food franchises intent on global domination (all of which you can probably find in the food court on the top of all the city’s shopping malls) alongside their small-fry local competitors. Choose wisely. If it’s fast and local you’re looking for (isn’t that why you’re here?), you might also try a Polish milk bar or Polish Snacks & Shots bar, both of which we feature in their own sections elsewhere. BAR SALAD STORY Fast food gets the health treatment in Salad Story, a chain of outlets serving salads, sandwiches and soups. Also at ul. Krucza 41/43 (G-7), ul. Nowy Świat 18/20 (G8), ul. Piękna 11 (G-10), ul. Polna 46 (F-10) and ul. Prosta 32 (C-8),QE‑8, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 883 64 44 45, www.saladstory.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. €. UW BUBBLE WAFFLE Waffles (gofry) have been a staple of Polish ‘quick eats’ for as long as anyone can remember and one doesn’t have to go far before spotting someone munching on a golden waffle smothered in fruit puree and a K2 sized mountain of whipped cream. It was only a matter of time before some fast food scientist came up with a sleek, designer version for the 21st century. 30 (yep, try counting ‘em!) bubble shaped pockets cover the surface of a carefully engineered hexagonal waffle which is then stuffed with a variety of sweet or savoury fillings rolled into a bursting package. All good fun but guaranteed to make your new T-shirt look like you switched on the blender before replacing the lid!QG‑8, ul. Chmielna 2, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 533 96 30 13, www.bubblewaffle.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. €. W GROOLE Who loves potatoes?! We love potatoes! If you don’t, then unfortunately, there’s not much for you here. This great place has a simple business model - make big jacket potatoes and fill them up with whatever you want! The staff will helpfully guide you through your topping choices in English (gluten free, vegetarian and vegan options all available) and we recommend a potato smothered with cottage cheese, radishes and chives! This is most definitely a popular student place and may be hard at times to find a seat! Other than that, we love it!QG‑10, ul. Śniadeckich 8, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 795 63 36 26, www.groole.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. €. T6W 96 Warsaw In Your Pocket

MILK BARS Expect a rare insight into Eastern-Bloc Poland in Milk Bars (Bar Mleczny). Subsidised by the state, this was food for the masses back in the day. With the fall of Communism many Milk Bars ceased to exist although a few survived and to gain cult status. They make it possible to eat lots in return for a handful of coins. Pay at the counter then watch in awe as matronly ladies serve up everything from budget excellence to bowls of slime. BAR MLECZNY FAMILIJNY Stern...stern, but fair, is he best way to accept the reception you can expect from the staff in Bar Mleczny Familijny. Continuing the milk bar tradition, the food is cheap, hearty and hits the spot in your stomach quite well. Sparse interiors abound, do not expect to be swept off your feet. Enjoy it for what it is - good food.QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 39, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 45 79. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. €. U MLECZARNIA JEROZOLIMSKA Also at ul. Świętokrzyska 12, ul. Emilii Plater 47 (E-8), ul. Bagatela 15, ul. Sienna 83, and ul. Nowowiejska 6, ul. Górczewska 124, CH Reduta, Al. Jerozolimskie 148, Galeria Bemowo, Powstańców Śląskich 126, CH Promenada, ul. Ostrobramska 75C.QG‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 32, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 602 38 17 34, www.mleczarniajerozolimska.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. €.

SOUTH AMERICAN CEVICHE BAR It usually takes a good few months for Warsaw to catch up with current international food fads but this one has been worth the wait. The new baby of Argentinian super-chef Martin Gimenez Castro, presents a short list of ceviche dishes (seasoned raw fish, cured in citrus juices popular around the coastal regions of South America). For a deepsea thrill of a lifetime, order the Ceviche Langostinos - shrimp combined with maracuja and coconut milk. The menu also includes soups, salads, empanadas and a brilliant list of South American classic and signature cocktails. The smartly casual interior is highlighted with a 1950’s style mural of Aztec inspired images, a buzzing open kitchen and a mirror wall which makes this smallish bar look massive. Check out their lunch, Mon-Fri from 12:0015:00.QE‑7, ul. Twarda 2/4, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 304 94 02, www.cevichebar.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€€. TB6W

SPANISH TAPAS GASTROBAR There can be no better recommendation for this smart, yet simply designed tapas bar than the fact that they have been known to reduce some of their Spanish customers to tears as their minds hurtle back to the real tastes of home. The bar is the brainchild of the team behind the iyp.me/warsaw

Restaurants superb Casa Pablo, so you know to expect great things. The authentic and traditional range of around 30 tapas dishes are representative of the many regions of Spain and the kitchen is run by a chef from Saragossa whose passion for the art could well be unsurpassed in the city. Organising a private event (bdays, business meeting, anniversaries etc.)? You can rent the whole place out if need be. Quite brilliant!QC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 63 (entrance from ul. Wronia), MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 251 13 10, www.tapasgastrobar.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€. TUB6W

TEX-MEX EL POPO Singing parrots and serenading Spaniards; El Popo sure know how to add the dynamite to dining. Having suffered something of an identity crisis not long back El Popo have emerged stronger for the experience, serving sizzling fajitas matched with sharp, spicy peppers. Always busy, and for good reason too.QF‑5, ul. Senatorska 27, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 23 40, www.kregliccy.pl/ elpopo. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. TBE6W LA SIRENA: THE MEXICAN FOOD CARTEL Innovative concept, for Warsaw at least! Find the dodgiest looking building on ul.Piękna (ironically, it means Beautiful Street), subhead it a ‘Cartel’ for maximum effect, design a fantastic Posada, woodcut style ‘Day of the Dead’ take on Warsaw’s mermaid coat of arms symbol (which looks far better in its printed version, rather than the neon on the exterior wall), devise a splendid and exotic Mexican menu plus a brilliant drinks/cocktail list and watch the customers flood into this brilliant mini-establishment. Far more like ‘Cheers’ than ‘The Titty Twister’ from Robert Rodriquez’ Mexican vampire flick ‘From Dusk till Dawn’. Te quiero La Sirena!QG‑10, ul. Piękna 54, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 690 08 50 54. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:30. €€. TUB6W

THAI SILK & SPICY No expense has been spared on the lush, perfectly designed interior and it’s nice to see a little ray of sunshine along the less salubrious end of ul. Żurawia. Sushi and Thai battle it out on the menu, and since we would rather go for Sushi in a small clinically white sushi bar, Thai wins the day! A good tester for any Warsaw Thai venture is Tom Kha Gai; weighing in at a rather hefty 25zł for a bowl of soup, we were relieved that this one was pretty tasty despite suffering from the rather common lack of ‘chilli kick’. Unfortunately the average Polish palate still dreads the fiery fruit, and restaurants compensate accordingly. Be aware of the obsession with weekend reservations, even when the place is half empty. Also found in the Praga district on ul. Francuska 49, where this time we went for Sushi and were delighted with the taste!QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 16/20, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 70 12, www.silkandspicy.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. TBW iyp.me/polandblog

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Restaurants THAISTY As soon as you walk in the bustling crowds will greet you, as will a wall of savoury sweet and spicy aromas wafting from the open kitchen. Settle into a cosy booth, or if you’re flying solo grab a stool at the communal table in the middle. After pouring over the atypical menu we decided to go with a few recommendations (marked with arrows) from Thai head chef Chanunkan Duangkumma. The Peking bun was an absolute revelation as the delicate duck meat just melted in our mouths. We followed with the crispy oyster mushroom salad which was perhaps the most interesting textured and flavoured “Thai” dish we’ve ever tried. Thaisty is not only the real deal, it’s really a great deal!QE‑5, Pl. Bankowy 4, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 730 00 00 24, www.thaisty.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Mon 16:00 - 23:00. €€. TB6W THAI THAI Run by the Godfather of Warsaw’s Thai cuisine, Surachart Urajaroen, this restaurant is 100% the real deal. No messing around with fusion concepts or little Polish additions. The five strong Thai kitchen team stick firmly to tradition and the results are spectacular. Based in the National Theatre building itself, the exterior of hefty, grey stonework gives you no inkling of the opulent interior which awaits you. Black walls decorated with Thai designs and gold curved ceilings create a very calming and relaxing environment. The well laid out seating areas also offer you the option of dining in a more private space, great for business meetings or an intimate dinner date.QF‑5, Pl. Teatralny 3, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 601 81 82 83, www.thaithai.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. XTBW

UKRAINIAN KAMANDA LWOWSKA Here’s a restaurant that gets back to basics, offering up a cavalcade of dishes that have been otherwise deleted from modern Warsaw. Featuring peasant pictures and brick ceilings this isn’t the experiment in vanity you expect of ul. Foksal, choosing instead to hark to the times when Ukrainian Lviv was actually Polish Lwów. The emphasis is firmly on the good old days – before moustached dictators started dictating Poland’s borders – and the design is a pleasing jumble of craftwork and clutter. The menu, too, has been painstakingly perfected, and includes such masterstrokes as tartare and a meringue cake with raspberry mousse. QH‑7, ul. Foksal 10, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 31, www.kamandalwowska.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. TBEW

VEGETARIAN LOKAL VEGAN BISTRO This communally run “local” restaurant have achieved the impossible: they serve up hot and hearty plates of VEGAN Polish dishes that are often more delicious than their porkheavy counterparts. What is more, they change their entire menu every two weeks so unless you check out their FB 98 Warsaw In Your Pocket

page you won’t know exactly what to find. Alongside vegan ‘cutlets’, cabbage concoctions and beet soups, you’ll also find plenty of more exotic international dishes plus a few surprises. Huge portions, fresh ingredients, cheap prices (Mon-Fri 12-16, a lunch menu consisting of a ‘cutlet’, soup and kompot drink for 25zł), a buzzing friendly atmosphere filled with locals all add up to be one of the best spots for a healthy lunch or dinner in the city centre. QG‑9, ul. Krucza 23/31, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 517 61 51 22. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. €. TUB6W RESTAURACJA AMBASADA Situated in the glamorous splendour of the famous Zamoyski Palace, Ambasada is a vegetarian restaurant with a difference. It’s a beautifully designed and relaxing white space where every aspect seems to have been carefully considered. The difference in the kitchen is also quite apparent with its emphasis on ‘raw food’ dishes. To some, the ‘raw food’ aspect may sound like health food fads gone haywire but convince yourself otherwise by trying fresh and beautifully presented options like raw lasagne, cashew ‘cheesecake’ and green raw salad. Yum.QH‑7, ul. Foksal 1, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 826 52 04, www. restaurantambasada.com. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. €€€. TB6W VEG DELI Situated on a tranquil tree-lined residential street in the Powiśle area of the city, Veg Deli has certainly managed to up the ante regarding vegetarian restaurants in Warsaw. The freshly prepared vegetarian, vegan and gluten free dishes are richly coloured, fragrant and look, smell and taste amazing; there’s even a bar serving alcohol. Even seasoned carnivores such as us were knocked out by the food and natural drinks on offer.QH‑6, ul. Radna 14, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 733 66 98 74, www.vegdeli.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:30, Sun 12:00 - 19:30. €€. TB6W

VIETNAMESE DU-ZA MI-HA Kebabs are fine but every now and then we all want something a little different for a late-night feast. That’s where Duza comes in. Noodles of all types with an endless variety of sauces and mixes, and the spicy beef ramen, Hong Kong duck and Shoyu ramen all come at great prices. To the delight of anyone who has eaten a three in the morning shoarma too many - it’s open 24 hours at weekends. Also at ul. Jasna 24, ul. Puławska 82.QF‑7, ul. Złota 3, MCentrum. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri,Sat open 24hrs., Sun 11:00 - 22:00. €. B6W

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Nightlife

The good folk at Woda Ognista (p.103, Polish for Fire Water) create some devilishly delightful concoctions!

The explosion of bars and clubs in Warsaw means that you are never far from a fresh beer or decent nightspot. On the other hand, it‘s still easy to find yourself stranded outside the bolted doors of a supposedly popular club on a Wednesday night, or ending up in a deserted bar. Local knowledge is a prerequisite to achieving a successful night out. Warsaw‘s young arty crowd prefer the down-at-heel clubs and bars that have popped up in the districts across the river: Stara Praga (H/I-4) and the fashionable and increasingly gentrified Saska Kępa (K/L-7/8). Opening hours listed here should be treated as rough approximation; in practise many bars and clubs will stay open well beyond the call of duty if the need arises, but by the same benchmark will happily bolt the doors if business is slow. Below are a few rapid-fire suggestions for those who need an instant plan; LOCAL Warsaw‘s best multi-tap bar Kufle i Kapsle (p.106) attracts a true mix of locals, expats and tourists all of whom are attracted by their exceptional selection of hand-crafted Polish and European beers. Down near the river has become a popular hangout for locals, students and expats alike, so join them in one of the bars listed in ‘seasonal places’ (p.106).

SYMBOL KEY 6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

W Wi-fi connection X Smoking room available B Outdoor seating

100 Warsaw In Your Pocket

CHEAP It has to be The Pavilions (G-7), a ramshackle collection of dive bars in the courtyard behind Nowy Świat 22 that offers Warsaw drinking in its rawest form. And if you don’t mind cheap beer and vodka shots explore Bar & Restaurant Warszawa (p.106) where folk tend to go for a few before a night out. LADS For Sky Sports, pints and pub banter with local ex-pats head along to Legends (p.102) or Someplace Else (p.102). Once the need to ‚move like Jagger‘ kicks in, chances are you will get into one of the clubs on ul. Mazowiecka (F-6); home of Room 13 (p.104), one of the biggest clubs in town, this short street also offers numerous other popular club options. Those in search of sensual pleasures and the erotic arts (otherwise known as strippers and lap dancers!) should check out our adult section (p.110) and then proceed wisely. COUPLES The pricey cocktails at The Alchemist GastroPub (p.102) are made with the precision of an atomic scientist; it may not sound romantic, but it is! Judging by the numerous sexy couples seated at the bar, Woda Ognista (p.104) hits the right note with their Pre-War Varsovian style interior decor and drink concepts to match! SPLURGE Fat Buddha’s (p.101) cocktails are worth the dip into your wallet, as well as the atmosphere inside. If you’re dressed to impress hit up The View (p.105) for the chance to drink like a champagne-swilling Russian oligarch. iyp.me/warsaw

Nightlife BARS & PUBS BAR AND BOOKS This legendary New York cigar and whiskey bar crossed the Atlantic a few years ago and set up shop in Prague and now after an almost 3 year renovation they’ve opened their Warsaw location. This classy, colonial bar is the height of sophistication and the jovial bartenders and whimsical waitresses are wholly consumed with your complete satisfaction. The dark wood and dimly lit bar immediately draws you in but the spacious second floor ‘library’ is perfect for larger groups or business meetings and the balcony and terrace suit romantic sippery. They specialize in high end and classic cocktails with one of the best Scotch whiskey selections in the city. The Laphroaig Whiskey Sour we ordered was absolutely impeccable. They have live music every Fri-Sat 22:30 - 01:30 as well as occasional burlesque shows.QF‑4, ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 559 91 99, www.barandbooks.cz. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. XB E6W BAR STUDIO Quite an ambitious little place this. A Bar set in the foyer of Teatr Studio, which is located in one wing of that big pointy Communist building right in the city centre (you can’t miss it!). It aims to mix theatre, political discussion, and social events, all with some snacks, food and drinks thrown in for good measure. A great place to hang out in before you head to the theatre, but likewise, it punches above its weight as a stand alone venue, without having to piggyback on the fame of the theatre itself. Its central location is another plus!QF‑8, Plac Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 603 30 08 35, www.barstudio.pl. Open 10:30 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 04:00. BEW COCTAIL BAR MAX & DOM WHISKY We also question the spelling, but otherwise Max’s concept is fiendishly simple, colourful and fun. Step up to the expert bar staff, give them a rundown on your favourite tipples, fruits and taste sensations and - HEY PRESTO - they concoct a magical potion especially for you! Weird and wonderful fruits and glamorous bottles of booze are imported from around the globe. The main bar area is a bright and airy affair with bleached wood and pleasant seats. Upstairs you will find the dark and mysterious specialist whisky and cigar areas. Over 800 bottles of the ‘water of life’ stand like museum exhibits in dimly lit glass cases. Stare in awe at the 47-year-old GlenDronach, yours for only 2275zł a shot. If there’s lack of space here, don’t worry, they have a 2nd venue on ul. Nowy Świat 32.QG‑9, ul. Krucza 16/22, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 691 71 00 00, www.barmax.pl. Open 11:00 - 05:00. XUBW

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Nightlife SPORTS ON TV

Champions Sports Bar & Restaurant

You just have to watch that match, don’t you. The venues listed below have sports on the tele, and the largely ex-pat crowds that come with the territory. CHAMPIONS SPORTS BAR & RESTAURANT A classic sports bar filled with glittering trophies, signed shirts and other sporting detritus. Some 37 digital screens and projectors beam out action from across the world, while those wishing to exercise more than their eyes can choose from pool tables, playstations and dart machines that beep and whir during moments of particular drama. Although huge, it’s also hugely popular, so we recommend you book a table in advance if there’s a particularly big match on.QE‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 630 36 87, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. UW LEGENDS BRITISH BAR & RESTAURANT British owned and run, not 150 metres from the Marriott, this is a resto-pub with a bright, clean look, four flatscreen tvs on which you can watch SKY and Canal +, real dart boards and a cracking menu of British-style grub to soak up the Polish beer, British ales and rarely-seen spirits like Captain Morgan dark rum. To add that extra sports feel, walls come decorated with pictures depicting all the games the British have invented for the rest of the world to beat them at. Don’t miss their ‘legendary’ English Pub Quiz which takes place once a month on a Friday (20:00). Check their site for details.QF‑9, ul. Emilii Plater 25, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. BW SOMEPLACE ELSE Located in the Sheraton, SPE has flat screens stationed around an upmarket industrial space. A great menu of American classics like burgers and steaks along with an extravagant selection of drinks.QH‑9, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa.someplace-else.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UW 102 Warsaw In Your Pocket

FAT BUDDHA So you’ve probably been at Fat Buddha before, right? You’ve enjoyed the meal, the service, the class atmosphere... but there’s that niggling feeling, knowing that if you just stay a little longer, you’ll get to experience this place at night. And you should. When the night kicks in, this place becomes quite the lounge to kick back and enjoy some cocktails. Things can become a bit lively! With Fat Buddha being the brainchild of the same people behind The View nightclub, they know what they’re doing!QF‑7, ul. Mazowiecka 2/4, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 690 03 05 58, www.fatbuddha.pl. Open 17:00 - 04:00, Wed 17:00 - 24:00, Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. UW HARD ROCK CAFE Sure you don’t need to see Freddie Mercury’s red leather pants to enjoy a night out, but it certainly doesn’t hurt. The Hard Rock Cafe’s large downstairs bar area is jumping at night even when live rock shows aren’t on the agenda. The endless bar mixes up a long list of colourful cocktails for a heavily ex-pat crowd taking in paraphernalia like a well-worn Bee Gees guitar and a black leather outfit that formerly clung to Madonna’s early 90s frame. Live music by Gabriela Pisańska is available every Wednesday (22:00) and Saturday (18:30).QE‑8, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrock. com/warsaw. Open 09:00 - 24:00. BEW HYDROZAGADKA You will not find a more unkempt bar than Hydrozagadka; this place looks like it’s been ransacked by students, and it’s almost advisable to check yourself for fleas when leaving. Decorations aren’t so much limited as virtually non-existent, and you won’t find much more than brick walls and a collection of seats that appear to have been rescued from the rubbish. But while it looks scruffy this has emerged as one of the best places in town, with off-beat performances enjoyed by a crowd that doesn’t get out of bed till way after noon.QJ‑2, ul. 11 Listopada 22 (Praga Północ), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 505 84 93 86, www.hydrozagadka.com. Open Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:30 only and during events. UBEW ISKRA POLE MOKOTOWSKIE On the outskirts of the largest park in Mokotów, next to the somewhat disused and decrepit SKRA stadium, you’ll find the party oasis known as Iskra. In the warmer months you’ll be greeted by a sea of people chilling on beach loungers, hanging on hammocks or cooling off in the pool (available until October)! In the cooler months, head straight for the underground nightclub and get down to some of the best DJs in town. The hip interiors and well stocked bars are packed with one of Warsaw’s coolest crowds so be ready to get down till the break of dawn. Check their site and Facebook profile for all the latest events. Essential!QD‑12, ul. Wawelska 5, MPole Mokotowskie, tel. (+48) 609 01 80 17, www.klubiskra.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:45, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. XEW iyp.me/warsaw

Nightlife KITA KOGUTA Even with the myriad of trendy drink bars around town it’s still a bit of a rarity to stumble upon a place where the staff seem permanently smiley, jolly and on the point of being certified - this is such a place, where you’ll also receive a free cup of popcorn. As you do. Two levels of surprisingly unpretentious cocktail juggling mayhem, DJ nights and some of the weirdest auteur concoctions available in the city, like the Asian cuisine inspired ‘Thai style chicken’ cocktail! The staff will help you think up a drink based on your tastes and preferences. Great atmosphere, great drinks. QG‑9, ul. Krucza 6/14, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 512 30 72 84, www.kitakoguta.pl. Open 19:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 02:00, Sun 19:00 - 24:00, Closed Mon. BEW PANORAMA SKY BAR Warsaw’s - and indeed Poland’s - highest bar sits on the 40th floor of the Marriott with prices to match the top tier location and a VIP room to boot. The views of Warsaw glimmering below are outstanding, and there’s simply no better place in town for Sleepless In Seattle seduction, or a corporate chinwag.QE‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 630 74 35, www.panoramaskybar.pl. Open 18:00 - 02:00. UW PIES CZY SUKA Pies Czy Suka (“Dog or Bitch”) is a high-end design boutique that opened a craft cocktail bar and part time club, with stunning results. The space itself is what you might expect when design folk are in charge: touchscreen menus, a tapas menu, a rotating wall gallery featuring well-known Polish artists and lots and lots of white. The imaginative drinks are the main focus, and though they don’t arrive quickly, they do come with a free show; creating molecular foam and juicing figs takes some elbow grease, and conversations are punctuated by the loud, rhythmic thwack of ice against the cocktail shaker. Expensive, but worth every złoty – try the Gin Basil Smash or Tequila Rucola Smash.QG‑7, ul. Szpitalna 8A, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 501 85 01 14. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. BW THE ALCHEMIST GASTROPUB Welcome to the future of drinking. As you make your way to the stylish bar past the spacious terrace, you’ll quickly notice a strange site on the far wall: 8 pristine unattended taps all begging you to imbibe. This is the Alchemist’s patented “Beer Wall” and it is the first of its kind in Europe. Top up a handy “Beer Wall card” then pour yourself as many local craft beers, proseccos or ciders as you like. If you magically leave with excess credit on your card, just come back tomorrow and keep it rolling (beer cards are good for up to 6 months!) Futuristic guzzling gizmos aside, their food is also top notch with an all day menu that includes intriguing beer snacks, British gastropub classics, American burgers, sea food, lamb chops, salads and impeccable pizzas.QF‑5, Plac Piłsudskiego 3, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 628 00 23, www.thealchemist.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. TU B6W iyp.me/polandblog

Self Self Service Service Craft Craft Beers Beers and Prosecco on and Prosecco on tap tap –– the only one in Poland the only one in Poland Plac Plac Piłsudskiego Piłsudskiego 3, 3, 00-078 00-078 Warszawa, Warszawa, (22) (22) 628 628 00 00 23, 23, info@thealchemist.pl info@thealchemist.pl

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Nightlife POLISH VODKA

The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most popular of which we describe below. WIŚNIÓWKA Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka, wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. You’ll see students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa is incredibly palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice. KRUPNIK A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added. ŻUBRÓWKA One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’ 104 Warsaw In Your Pocket

THE ROOTS COCKTAIL BAR & MORE While the cocktail revolution continues to shake and stir up Warsaw’s drinking habits, some places manage to stand out from the crowd. In our opinion The Roots has secured a special place in the hearts of serious cocktail devotees. First up, the bar is a shrine to the noble art of being a barman/cocktail mixer, check out their intriguing collection of vintage and antique ‘tools of the trade’ – the growing collection of mixers alone, already stands at over 60 items! Add to this a library of antiquarian books on the subject of bartending/cocktail mixing and you know you are dealing with some hardcore and scholarly mixologists. Two great menus; one featuring classics of the trade and another which presents signature drinks based on seasonal Polish regional flavours. Food is also available in the form of Polish fusion menu, which in itself sounds intriguing. Quite brilliant!QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 33, www.therootsbar.com. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. BE6W WODA OGNISTA Before we mention the place, we’ll mention the area - ul. Wilcza, one of many nice streets here that can be described as being ‘off the beaten track’, hiding some wonderful prewar architecture, which do not seem immediately apparent if walking on Warsaw’s main ul. Marszałkowska! You get a feel for the place when walking around and no doubt you’ll want to experience more of this ‘forgotten Warsaw’, which is exactly where Woda Ognista fits in. Enter a bar decorated with a 1920s-30s interior decor, the classy staff dressed up to match, and you already know you’ve entered a great place. Prepare to be impressed by their seasonal menu offerings, with fantastic Polish style cocktails and dishes that take you on a journey through Warsaw’s cultural history. Put simply, this is a wonderful place to experience a modern spin on pre-war Varsovian style and we’re sure the likes of Eugeniusz Bodo and Mieczysław Fogg would have approved.QH‑9, ul. Wilcza 8, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 258 14 41, www.wodaognista.com. Open 17:00 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. B6W

MICROBREWERIES BIERHALLE An industrial motif prevails in Bierhalle, with giant tailormade brewing vats, brickwork and pipes springing from every corner. The beer is brewed on-site, and presented in frothy steins by wenches squeezed into peasant bodices. Our favourite is the pils, and it tastes even better when you ask for a dash of caramel to be added to your brew. Domestic sad cases rejoice - bottles, barrels even, of beer are available for takeaway. Also at Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia, C-2), ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki, F-10), Brovarnia Bierhalle ul. Królewska 1 and in Wilanów at ul. Klimczaka 1, and the newest location in Galeria Północna shopping centre.QC‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 601 67 79 62, www. bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. UBW iyp.me/warsaw

Nightlife BROWARMIA Warsaw’s other microbrewery tends to live in the shadow of the more famous Bierhalle, and though it fails to share the lively atmosphere of its rival, Browarmia is by no means second best. There’s a decent design here, with all the requisite pipes, dials and tanks on display, as well as a good menu that trounces the competition. The beer is top standard and their four season heated terrace making this one of the best spots for people watching any time of year.QG‑6, ul. Królewska 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 54 55, www.browarmia.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. BW

MULTI TAP BARS 2013 was officially the “year of the beer” in Poland. And not just any old beer… Damn good micro-brewed craft beers and ales made in small batches by dozens of small breweries then shipped in bottles or kegs and pumped, poured and pounded in sleek new multi-tap bars, ale dens and beer pubs all over Poland. Warsaw has been in the vanguard of this renaissance and a whole cache of new bars have opened their doors in the past few years offering a wide variety of sultry suds to a rapidly expanding community of beer enthusiasts. KUFLE I KAPSLE Hot on the heels of the original Warsaw real ale bar ‘Cuda na Kiju’ comes this beer drinker’s paradise. The name ‘Kufle i Kapsle’ means ‘Beer Mugs and Bottlecaps’ and the interior is a perfect blend of European traditional bar design mingling with Polish features, such as the large tiled heater in the back room. Sixteen taps are on offer and the bottled beer selection has more variety than a Glaswegian glass recycling bin! An interesting selection of bar snacks are also available. In contrast to many other local bars, expect it to be packed and buzzing from around 17:00. We love it! (Also visit their other locations at ul. Księdza Jerzego Popiełuszki 19/21 paw. 1 and ul. Solec 46A).QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 25, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 127 72 18, www.kufleikapsle. pl. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri 14:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. BW PIW PAW 61 tap beers and a wall of refrigerators stuffed to bursting with over 200 bottled beers may sound like you’ve died and gone to heaven, but it makes for a rather odd business plan. Besides bragging rights, we can’t really see the reason behind the massive selection, or the fact that the venue only has around a dozen tables and, even more scarily, only two toilets! In fairness, a large amount of trade comes from the off-licence side of things – even the tap beers can be poured into containers and taken with you. The meticulous queuing system at the bar also detracts from it having a real pub atmosphere. Whatever the down-sides, one cannot deny their passion for great beer. Also on ul. Foksal 16 and ul. Mazowiecka 9.QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 32/34 (entrance from ul. Parkingowa), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 534 73 45 00, www.piwpaw.pl. Open 24hrs. BW iyp.me/polandblog

JAZZ 12ON14 JAZZ CLUB This jumpin’ joint has a clear mission to promote the Polish jazz and present a world class stage for top international acts. Hosting major concerts every week, plus jam sessions and student ensembles, this modern club has fantastic acoustics and instruments (some donated by top Polish Jazz artists). They recently celebrated their 150th concert and aren’t slowing down so stop by their ticket office (which doubles as a Jazz CD shop).QF‑10, ul. Noakowskiego 16, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 635 49 49, www.12on14club.com. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Closed Mon, Sun. 6W JAZZ CLUB AKWARIUM Warsaw’s legendary Akwarium jazz club (which closed in 2008) has returned after a period of dormancy. Reopened in 2017, it is now located on Herbert Hoover Square, offering jazz sessions in the, quite literally, underground stage area. The building itself was only built in 2008 to revamp this patch of land on Warsaw’s Krakowskie Przedmiecie, and previously housed a restaurant. Now a moody atmosphere reigns, with a bar with some jammin’ cocktails to match.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 60A, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 664 06 30 50. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. UBE6W August – September 2018 105

Nightlife POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS A very Polish phenomenon that is the all night snack and shot bar. Known as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’ (literally ‘Appetisers & Snacks’), these trendy, formulaic budget bars cash in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by offering a small selection of simple appetisers for about 9zł each, with drinks typically fixed at 4/5zł. The menu typically includes śledź (pickled herring in oil), kiełbasa (sausage), pierogi, pickles and tartare. Zakąski Przekąski bars offer budget food and drink late night and are a great place to meet the city’s strangest characters. We list the best in Warsaw below: BAR&RESTAURANT WARSZAWA Bar Warszawa’s popularity has been so explosive they’ve created a satellite location, Bar&Restaurant Warszawa to handle the late-night overflow. This place combines ridiculously cheap Polish food and booze with nerdily dressed employees and they serve up 11zł snacks like herring, tartare, pierogi for 15zł and vodka shots ranging from 4-6zł. Wed-Sat a DJ is at hand from 21:00-01:00. If you’re still feeling peckish head upstairs to Restauracja Warszawa for a fancier feed (open Thu-Fri 14.00 onwards, Sat-Sun from 13:00).QF‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 79, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 510 40 08 64, www. barwarszawa.pl. Open 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 05:00. NUB

SEASONAL PLACES CUD NAD WISŁĄ This seasonal bar – which translates to Miracle on the Vistula – is definitely doing its part to perk up a Warsaw summer. After a rough winter trapped indoors, we embrace the chance to soak up the sun on a stack of pillows, or watch the choppy Vistula beneath twinkling lights in the evening. Students are drawn to the reasonable beer prices as much as the unique location, and a small stage means music is another attraction. A must-visit nightspot with an expiration date.QK‑8, Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 790 67 03 00. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 10:00 24:00. BE6W GRUNT I WODA When the weather gets warm, Varsovians head to the river, either to sit on the steps or sit at the many bars found alongside the boulevards. Head to the southern end after rolling in by Metro M2 to Centrum Nauki Kopernika. Along with a few other places found here, this is one of the favourites to hand around in, with hte usual crowd pleasure ingredients to make people happy in the summer: deck chairs, drinks of all types (nonalcoholic too, of course), cakes, and some basic food like sandwiches. Like most other places during the day, Grunt i Woda is family friendly during the day, a great place to relax, and at night, things step up a notch as the place gradually turns into a club venue, and they insist they’ll 106 Warsaw In Your Pocket

stay open until the last clients stop dancing, even if the sun is already up! Not bad, not bad at all, say we.QJ‑7/8, Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Mon 13:00 - 02:00. TUBE6 HOCKI KLOCKI One of the most popular club/beach bars on the city centre side of the river Wisła. In part, due to how easy it is to get to - just get the metro straight to Centrum Nauki Kopernika, take a left then stroll along the riverbank heading south for a couple of minutes until you spot the giant, colourful ‘lego’ totem pole! A great place to quietly lounge around on a hot summer afternoon, or at the other end of the scale, arrive on a weekend night when it’s bustin’ at the seams with clubbers - attracted by cult local DJs and weirdo bands. The big child in you may want to try one of the ‘Infuzje’ drinks; booze blended with various types of Polish candies! HC usually stays open until the end of September (depending on the weather!).QJ‑7, ul. Wioślarska 6 (Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej), MCentrum Nauki Kopernik. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri 16:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 02:00. UBEW LA PLAYA We’re always excited when the seasonal La Playa opens, as this Vistula-hugging beer garden features a canvas-roofed wooden cabin with the heady atmosphere of a Hawaiian beach bar right on the water (the views of the Old Town are priceless). This tropical style beach club welcomes throngs of the young and the beautiful with open arms. A variety of world orientated DJ nights are in store, with a heavy emphasis on Latin beats during the weekends when the samba and salsa crowd take over the outdoor dance floor. Zumba and salsa classes are available to assist those with two left feet. If dancing the night away isn’t really your thing, how about making use of the beach volleyball/ badminton court, boules area or playing frisbee? Just ask at the bar and they’ll supply you with the gear needed for free. Of course, such an exotic venue needs exotic cocktails and the list is extensive. That daytime Old Town view is priceless, but at night...just, wow.QG‑3, ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 608 55 23 36, www.laplaya.pl. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. BEW

WINE BARS BRISTOL WINE BAR The dark wood furnishings and brass/chrome fittings contrast beautifully with the subdued colour scheme of the paintwork and there’s enough marble around to give Michelangelo a seizure. The stunning old and new world wine list is exquisite and, considering the opulent surroundings, wines by the glass start from a very reasonable 25zł. Try out their 3 course lunches, 12:00-15:00. QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol Warsaw), MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 551 10 00, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UBW iyp.me/warsaw

Nightlife

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Nightlife WINOSFERA Coming across as somewhat of a cultural centre for wine lovers, including a cinema, piano bar, fine art gallery, theatre and wine shop. Best considered a number of ventures under one roof, all linked by the humble grape. The raw brickwork and plaster grey interior has all the modern charm of a re-fitted factory space and features the ‘must have’ current trend of the open kitchen. Expect culinary magic from the short and perfectly constructed menu with Bartłomiej Brzózka as head chef. The clean and perfect presentation of dishes is rapidly turning the restaurant into one of Warsaw’s top eateries.QC‑7, ul. Chłodna 31, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 526 25 00, www.winosfera.pl. Open 12:00 23:00, Sat 15:00 - 23:00. From September open 12:00 - 23:00. UBW

CLUBS CLUB CAPITOL Global recession you say? Nobody told the chaps at Capitol, a jaw dropper of a venue whose opening confirms north Warsaw’s status as the official party part of the city. Filled with post-socialist bling this venue is immense, and has seen the contents of an oligarch’s deposit box thrown into impressive interiors. A pneumatic set of breasts should be enough to guarantee female entry, while boys should consider adding an arrogant lope to their step and some designer horses to their clothes. And the promoters haven’t been slouches either, having so far secured the appearance of several club circuit legends. VIP room available as well for you jet-setters.QE‑6, ul. Marszałkowska 115, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 733 95 65 84, www.clubcapitol.pl. Open Sat 22:00 - 05:00 only. X LUZZTRO Nights are insane in Luzztro, a dark, dirty club which doesn’t get going till at least three. This is Warsaw’s premier space for blippy minimal and electro sounds, and something of a byword in voluntary brain damage. Nights here are legend, especially the weekend after party which really kicks off after all the other clubs have closed – just watch in awe as every freak in Poland gathers to get up to seriously naughty mischief. Bacchanal behaviour is encouraged and expected, just make sure to sketch in ample time for recovery. Point to note: Luzztro has a no photo policy, so not only will you be asked to stop snapping, but selfie freaks and social media addicted types will be frowned upon quite right!QH‑7, Al. Jerozolimskie 6, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, www.luzztro.com. Open 23:00 - 06:00, Tue 22:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 24:00 - 12:00. XW N58 CLUB Smack dab in the heart of the action on Nowy Świat, N58 is the latest club addition to the famous street. Right above the Bollywood Lounge, move from seeing sequined dresses, scented water pipes and shaking 108 Warsaw In Your Pocket

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Nightlife hips and undulating bellies to the more familiar beats of R’n’B, Hip Hop, Funk and Soul, to general mash-ups of them all! IF you get peckish during the night, no need to leave and hunt down some food as they serve Kentucky style chicken, chicken spring rolls, sandwiches and salads. Check out their Facebook page to see information on all the latest events.QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 58, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 500 01 58 58, www.n58.pl. Open Thu - Sat 22:00 - 05:00 only. EW NA LATO DAY & NIGHT Na Lato has been a Powiśle favourite for a while now, both during the day and night. The setting, both the location and the interior, work well, as they are pleasant on the eye and the soul. After a meal, sit back at the bar on a Fri or Sat, letting the night set in until bam! - the transformation from restaurant to dance floor passes by you in the blink of an eye, especially if you’ve cocktailing early. Get well fed, dance your socks off, or sit at the bar continuing what you were doing before - not a bad set of choices, huh?QI‑9/10, ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. (+48) 696 87 84 49, www.na-lato. com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 05:00, Sat 10:00 05:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. BW NIEBO Found in the courtyard at Nowy Świat 21, Niebo (Heaven) is a venue that the owners term ‘multidimensional’, which is not an allusion to an outer-body experience, but a decent explanation of how this place functions - by day, it’s a restaurant (with a great bar) and a place to relax and even meet up for business. But there’s more going on here, for not only is this a restaurant that becomes a pretty vibrant club at night, it’s also a cultural and artistic centre, hosting concerts, and even film screenings. We recommend you check out their Facebook page to keep up with the busy events calendar!QG‑8, ul. Nowy Świat 21, MCentrum. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. BE6W OPERA A no-expense spared design masterpiece found in the basement of the National Opera. Descend the curving stairwell and all you’ll see is boys with attitude, dressed in popped collared polo shirts, and a heart-stopping spread of gazelle-like girls. If you were wondering where the good lookers went, you’ve found the answer. Tread down wood boards and through vaulted tunnels to reach the main arena, checking out the numerous side rooms on the way; this place was formerly known as Bedroom, and that’s because of the alcoves found shooting off in every direction. Each comes decorated with poufs, loungers and Persian drapes, and serve as a great spot to enjoy illicit activities. If you’re searching for a venue for your next private party, you can rent out the whole place from Sunday to Thursday.QF‑5, Pl. Teatralny 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 70 75, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00 only. XBEW iyp.me/polandblog

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Nightlife ROOM 13 CLUB & LOUNGE Warsaw has had the benefit of a club explosion (clubsplosion?) in the last decade or so, and after visiting venue upon venue, Room 13 is one that stands out. Located in the heart of the legendary Mazowiecka street, the interior is a striking mix between modern club theme and stunning old architectural style of the building. Couches and pillows adorn the interior, and if your idea of heaven is two bars, a VIP room, a wide array of music and lots of high heels, then consider this your nirvana.QF‑6, ul. Mazowiecka 13, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 60 44, www.room13.pl. Open Thu - Sun 22:00 05:00 only. W SMOLNA This sparse and bunkerlike club based on the Berlin underground techno model is situated in a grand old city centre townhouse, just seconds away from the landmark ‘palm tree’. The music delves deep into the murky world of all aspects of electronica but they’re a pretty radical and experimental group of folks, so you never know what musical journey they’ll whisk you through. Three dancefloors, including the newly installed outdoor patio space (the neighbours will love that one), three bars (cocktails included) and a chillout room make up this hugely popular venue. Keeping things enigmatic and secretive, they have a strict “no photos/no smartphone” policy and some pretty cryptic advertising clips which tell you nothing. The door policy seems pretty reasonable, simply in place to keep out aggressive yobos and anyone with a Nikon D5200 strapped around their neck. Expect long queues, especially during weekends.QH‑8, ul. Smolna 38, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, www.smolna38.com. Open Wed 22:00 - 03:00; Fri, Sat 23:30 - 08:00 only. W THE VIEW WARSAW Warsaw’s first hyper-posh rooftop nightspot is finally here, and it’s everything you imagine it to be and more. Once you clear the streetside queue (get there promptly at 22:00 or suffer the consequences), squeeze past the burly bouncers and stroll the red carpet in the lobby before entering the club in the clouds. The 360 degree bird’s eye views alone are worth the trip as you emerge right in the middle of Warsaw’s rapidly rising skyline. Take it all in with a bubbly cocktail in hand, but if you want a seat make sure you reserve ahead of time. Aside from A-list DJs and allnight parties al fresco and in the newly opened club space (28th floor), The View promises, above all, primo peoplewatching as the city’s glitterati, celebs and business tycoons all crowd around the iconic circular bar. THE place to see and be seen in Warsaw.QE‑7, ul. Twarda 18, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 663 97 19 42, www.theview.pl. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00 only. X

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Adult Entertainment In the old days we’d use this space to fire some recommendations your way. Legal factors now make that a foolhardy path to pursue, instead we advise to stick to venues listed here which are central and established but be warned that we’ve had reports in the past of 8,000zł being spent willingly in one club listed here and another of 8,000 sterling being spent unwillingly in one which is not listed here. A rule of thumb is to generally avoid street solicitation of any kind, especially if it comes in the form of a sweet girl with an umbrella inviting you to a club for a ‘drink’. COYOTE BAR & NIGHT CLUB On the Street of Sin that is ul. Mazowiecka, Coyote Club is an adult entertainment establishment of the ‘girls in underwear which leaves little to the imagination will dance for you’ variety. Drinks (the beers at least) are not as outrageously priced as in other similar places and we have to say that the girls we bumped into when we popped in for a quick one had us howling at the moon.QF‑6, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 692 35 74 94, www.coyotenightclub.pl. Open 20:00 - 05:00. XUW HUSTLER GENTLEMEN’S CLUB Located in the heart of the classy part of Warsaw’s centre, Nowy Świat, and currently the one and only Hustler in Europe! This exclusive club is filled with beautiful women, a wide selection of alcohols and even a VIP room for private reservations. Open from 21:00 - 05:00, get there early, leave late.QH‑8, ul. Nowy Świat 3, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 826 56 05, www.hustlerclub.pl. Open 21:00 - 05:00. NEW ORLEANS GENTLEMEN’S CLUB A slightly higher-class of punter frequents this exclusive Gentlemen’s Club. At the weekends you’ll find New Orleans to be a crowded more standard strip joint with girls tottering around in next to nothing, and offering the usual hip-grinding action. Now added, a ‘night restaurant’ with an ‘erotic’ menu featuring Argie steak and many other tempting treats. If the flow runs low just saunter awkwardly over to their in house ATM machine.QF‑7, ul. Zgoda 11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 826 48 31, www.neworleans. pl. Open 20:00 - 05:00. XW PLAYHOUSE GENTLEMAN’S CLUB This smart gentlemen’s club, located in a chunky communist era building on al. Solidarności, has certainly hit the top of the tree (or pole?) with their classy approach to showing off the female form in luxurious surroundings. Their reputation in this market has even gone international, with influential website AskMen.com recently voting them the best strip club in the world! Three floors covering over 800m2, four bars, three VIP rooms, an in-house ATM and 57 sizzling hot women (plus 4 quite ugly ones, as their legendary advertising states) makes Playhouse THE place to visit for the discerning gent, or lady we suppose, with a penchant for the erotic. Payment methods accepted: cash, card and Bitcoin.QD‑5, Al. Solidarności 82A, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 794 00 70 00, www.playhouse.pl. Open 21:00 - 05:00. X iyp.me/polandblog

August – September 2018 111

Leisure

It’s impossible not to have fun at FSO Shooting Range! All supervised, of course!

ADRENALINE SPORTS BUNGEE JUMPING MARIO Well, this place pretty much gives you all the information you need in the name alone: Bungee jumping . Arrive at this site and muster up the courage to jump off a platform 90m high! Simple, adrenaline fuelled fun, perfect for thrill seekers or cruel stag party organisers hoping to see a wet patch appear on the stag’s trousers... No prior reservation is required, just turn up and jump (minimum weight 40kg, maximum 300kg), but please note the opening hours. QAl. Prymasa Tysiąclecia 103, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 507 05 31 91, www.jumping.pl. Open 12:00 20:00. Individual jump 130zł, tandem 260zł. N NEW FSO SHOOTING RANGE (STRZELNICA FSO) Shooting at FSO = adrenaline pumping fun. I could stop there, but there’s some important stuff you must know! First and foremost, the shooting range is located in the grounds of the former Polish car manufacturer FSO, which produced iconic cars such as the Polonez, a mass-produced geometric beast, between 1978-2002. It’s through the main gate that you enter and take a left until you reach the range at the end of the lane. If you’re arriving by bus, get off at stop Śliwice and it’s directly behind the petrol station, you can’t miss the ‘welcome FSO’ sign at the end of ul. Aleksandra Kotsisa. Once you’re there, choose from various packages, ranging from 59-599zł, which take you on a walkthrough of gun history, from old revolvers and pistols, Soviet era weaponry, all up to modern-day shooters. The range caters for groups of various sizes and can take up 112 Warsaw In Your Pocket

to 45, which can be anything from smaller stag groups to larger corporate events (conference facilities are available!). It is essential you bring photo ID with you (passport, ID card), otherwise you will not be allowed to take part. Highly recommended.Qul. Jagiellońska 88/10B, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 604 24 01 95, www.strzelnicafso.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Last entrance 1 hour before closing. WALK IN THE SKY If adrenaline sports, and bungee jumping in particular are your thing, but you think that some experiences are over in a flash and you want to find something that lasts a little longer, then why not go for a walk in the sky? This experience allows you to walk face down the side of a building, which will take you 5 mins to complete (or longer if you freeze). By the time you get to the bottom, your heart will be racing and the adrenaline will be pumping. Fun, fun, fun! To get there, head straight to Rondo Daszyńskiego Metro Station. To enjoy this experience, you must make an online reservation in advance. Open Apr-Sep, weekends only. QB‑7, ul. Grzybowskiej 80/82, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 508 45 10 34, www.walkinthesky.pl. No set hours, you must make an online reservation. 129,99zł for walk per person, 149,99zł with video.

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Leisure CINEMAS KINO MURANÓW Flagship cinema of Gutek Film (Polish independent film distributor). Imagine a high street arthouse cinema in England and you get the idea: faded velour, a slightly pretentious film buff staff, flickering pictures and fabulous films. They also organise a lot of various film festivals and reviews so make sure to check their website to see what’s on while you’re in town.QE‑5, ul. Gen. Andersa 5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 30 78, www. muranow.gutekfilm.pl. Box office open from 10:00 to the last showtime. Tickets 11-22zł. MULTIKINO ZŁOTE TARASY Also at Al. Ken 60 (Ursynów), Wola Park, ul. Górczewska 124 (Wola); Centrum Targówek, ul. Głębocka 15 (Targówek). QE‑8, ul. Złota 59, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 462 81 10, www.multikino.pl. Box office open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 24-38zł.

BIKE RENTAL VETURILO Warsaw has cemented its big-city credentials by having a city-wide bike rental fleet, and the numbers are impressive. With 366 stations spread throughout all of Warsaw’s districts offering 5,300 bikes there’s no question you’ll be spotting the silvery fleet flying through the city’s streets. And why not try one yourself? The Veturilo (meaning ‘vehicle’ in Esperanto) system is ridiculously easy: set up an account online and pay the initial 10zł fee. Once you’re registered you can visit any of the stations and select your ride, which has its own individual code. Simply scan the QR code, or if using a phone, dial and enter your phone number, your PIN and the bike’s code, and you’ll receive the number to unlock the bicycle from the stand. Then you’re off! The first 20 minutes are free, and from there you pay 1zł for 21-60 minutes, 3zł for the second hour, 5zł for the third, and 7zł for each hour after that up to 12 hours. There’s a 200zł fee for exceeding 12 hours, and a whopping 2,000zł cost for replacing a lost or damaged bike, so behave yourself. When you return the bike, which can be done at any of the stations, you check the app confirming the return, or make a quick call, and you’re finished.Qwww. en.veturilo.waw.pl.

ENTERTAINMENT CENTRES FUN PARK DIGILOO Situated not far from the city centre on the otherwise never ending ul. Puławska, Digiloo is a vast kid’s paradise of themed activity rooms. Areas vary from a toddlers space for the under two’s through to the main, jungle inspired activity area, a modern climbing wall and a laser paintball zone for budding young hitmen/women! Seven themed birthday rooms are also available for private hire. You may ask what the iyp.me/polandblog

grown ups can do while the nippers are running riot under the watchful eye of the expert assistants? They can take-five in the prize winning café/restaurant with its home cooking style menu.QH‑16, ul. Merliniego 2, MWierzbno, tel. (+48) 508 80 07 73, www. funparkdigiloo.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. SPIN CITY Admission for bowling is 49-120zł per hour. Features a bowling alley, a bar with pool tables and darts and a video games area.Qul. Powstańców Śląskich 126A (Cinema City, Bemowo), tel. (+48) 22 560 42 42, www.spincity.pl. Open 09:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:30 03:00.

INDOOR ATTRACTIONS FLYSPOT WARSAW INDOOR SKYDIVING Do you believe you can fly? This futuristic adrenaline junky paradise has both a freefall simulator and a Boeing 737 flight simulator. Spread your wings! Prices start from 229 zł for adults and 199zł for kids 18 and under. The price includes 2 flights in the freefall simulator/20 mins. and [for adults only] the Boeing 737 simulator, although you’ll get more if, well, you choose a more expensive package.QWspólna droga 1, Ożarów Mazowiecki, tel. (+48) 698 62 65 00, www.flyspot.com. Open 08:30 24:00. August – September 2018 113

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Leisure

17.07.2018

01:40

FSO SHOOTING RANGE REAL GUNS REAL AMMO REAL FUN!

CMY

100 METERS AXIS UNDER THE ROOF OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

WWW.STRZELNICAFSO.PL

HANGAR 646 A great place to literally jump around with masses of trampolines spread over nearly 3,000m2. Found in an old industrial area across the river from the Old Town you’ll also find drink and snacks available and lots of things to keep the kids happy. Also check out their new location at ul. Domaniewska 37A in the Mokotów district. Opening hours subject to change, so best check their site for the latest info. QWał Miedzeszyński 646, tel. (+48) 22 299 54 59, www. hangar646.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 29zł/per hour, 24zł/per hour group ticket (min. 8 people) online; 34zł/ per hour, 29zł/ per hour group ticket (min. 8 people) stationary. PINBALL STATION Remember a time before everyone could play games on their phones? A time when even having a games console was considered a luxury for kids? For those that didn’t have this, arcade games, and pinball machines in-particular were a damn cool form of entertainment (and minor obsession). Relive those days in this interactive pinball museum containing around 45 machines from the 90s (the oldest they have is from 1966!), with walls adorned with old school arcade posters. To get there, travel to Plac Zawiszy bus/tram stop, or take the short walk from Rondo Daszyńskiego Metro Station.QB‑9, ul. Kolejowa 8A, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 600 63 31 15, www.pinballstation.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00. Admission 35/30zł. 114 Warsaw In Your Pocket

OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS & PARKS LA PLAYA When the sun is out in Warsaw, it’s no secret that half the city’s population heads straight down to the river, and there’s certainly a lot of laces to go, from boulevards to beaches, but one of our favourite places to hang out is La Playa beach. Known for its fun nights, the daytime side of things are also worth checking out. Roll in by bike, stroll in on foot (it’s just down from the zoo!) and you can relax on a deckchair with a refreshing drink, or otherwise get active by playing badminton or volleyball. As the evening rolls in, join the Zumba and/or Salsa classes and then do the real thing later as people strut their stuff to the Latin beats as the night goes on. There’s always something going on here, day or night, so have fun!QG‑3, ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 608 55 23 36, www.laplaya.pl. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. BE MULTIMEDIA FOUNTAIN PARK Located in the Podzamcze district a short walk north of the Old Town, the ‘Multimedia Fountain Park’ is a visual delight combining music, light and, as the name suggests, fountains. Built on the site of a derelict concrete pond, the fountain cost over 11 million PLN to create. Featuring 367 nozzles which are capable of firing 800 cubic metres of water 25m into the air over the 3,000 square metre pond. The stunning visual show is provided by the fountain’s synchronisation with 295 coloured LED RGB lights and a laser projector able to create visual effects such as Warsaw’s iconic Syrena (Mermaid) moving through the water. Perhaps most impressive is the remarkable clarity with which films are able to be projected onto the wall of water, while accompanying music ranging from Chopin to Lady Gaga resounds from the surrounding speakers. These multimedia shows have proved so popular that visitors are warned to stake out a position on the banked viewing terraces as early as possible in order to get the best views.QF‑3, Skwer im. I Dywizji Pancernej, MDworzec Gdański, www.park-fontann.pl. Shows take place Fri/ Sat at 21:30 until 11 Aug. From 17 Aug - 29 Sep, Fri/Sat at 21:00. VISTULAN BOULEVARDS Well, well, well, Warsaw sure has scrubbed up its riverside pretty nicely recently, huh? Well, it has, kinda...but here’s the unique part - the west side (the left bank) has concrete boulevards (Bulwary Wiślane) with bars and cafes dotted here and there, while the right side of the river remains mainly wild providing a unique contrast between the two sides. Warsaw can now say its riverside boulevard is one of the best in Europe, if not the world; comparable to that of the Thames, the Seine and the Tiber (the Mayor’s words!). Gradually completed in phases, an 800m section was opened in June 2017 and the latest linking section was opened in August 2017. To get there, walk down to the riverfront from the Old Town, or roll right in by metro to iyp.me/warsaw

Leisure Centrum Nauki Kopernik station, and choose to either walk, ride a bike, skate the length of the boulevard or if it gets cold, find an indoor riverfront cafe to sit in and enjoy the views.QG‑3, Bulwar Karskiego. WARSAW UNIVERSITY LIBRARY GARDENS Traditionally speaking rooftops are the preserve of chimney sweeps, burglars and Santa, but take a trip down to the Warsaw University Library building and that opinion will quickly change. Topping off the bizarre oxidised green building is one of Warsaw’s best-kept secrets; a two level rooftop garden filled with bridges, streams, pathways, sculptures and plant life that covers an entire hectare. There’s even a fishpond (yep, that’s probably a duck you’ve spotted doing laps) and a stone fountain mixed in among greenery like oak trees and Japanese spirea. Designed by Irena Bajerska and opened back in 2002, the garden and viewing platforms afford panoramic views of lower Warsaw including the river, the Copernicus Centre and across the river to the PGE National Stadium in Praga. A wonderful place to stop and rest in the heart of the city, take a picnic and sit amongst the groups of students taking time out from studying (ahem, napping) at the library below. Easily one of the best places in town to get on bended knee and ooze some serious schmooze should that be your wish. QH‑5, ul. Dobra 56/66, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, www.buw.uw.edu.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Admission free.

SPA & BEAUTY ESSENCE BEAUTY CLINIC As the busy bees of Warsaw seek out more ways of feeling great, looking fabulous and eradicating the effects of increasingly stressful lifestyles, the beauty and spa industry is thriving. Essence is one of the luxury environments to help keep you buzzing away beautifully. A full list of treatments, spa rituals, medical procedures and an onsite hairdressing salon means that every part of you can be pampered to perfection. Classic traditional methods mix with some of the latest advances in beauty technology – including the rather gothic sounding ‘vampire lifting,’ - a procedure which actress Anna Friel and singer Danii Minogue swear by.QF‑9, ul. Hoża 43/49 lok.1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 504 01 51 20/(+48) 22 625 49 43, www.klinikaessence. pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

SWIMMING WODNY PARK The best pool of the lot with saunas, steam rooms, snow cabins, solariums as well as loads of slides and other recreational facilities. Prices range from 20-35zł/15-26zł per hour. Happy Hours are on offer with a fixed price MonFri 17.50/9.50zł per hour from 09:00-15:00.QH‑16, ul. Merliniego 4 (Mokotów), MWierzbno, tel. (+48) 22 854 01 30, www.wodnypark.com.pl. Open 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 06:30 - 22:00, (Spa open 11:00 - 22:00. Admission 42-78/32-59zł). iyp.me/polandblog

WARSAW WITH THE KIDS Warsaw has a tonne of sightseeing, but not all places are suited for youngsters. You can only expect them to be quiet and respectful in churches, memorial sites and boring history museums for so long. There must be something else to do in this town, right? Yup! Of course the first step to having a great family vacation abroad is to accept that what you want to do, and what your kids want to do are hardly one and the same. That said, there’s no reason you can’t find common ground in Warsaw’s major attractions. The perfect choice is to go to the Copernicus Science Centre (p.33), which will not only keep the kids entertained with the games and interactive nature of the museum, but the adults with also have a whale of a time too. The Warsaw Uprising Museum (p.59) is super-modern and highly interactive, with kid specific educational zones. A slightly ‘different’ suggestion is to go to the Invisible Exhibition (D-9), an immersive experience that teaches you how blind people live their daily lives by performing tasks whilst blindfolded! Multikino (p.113) in Złote Tarasy and Cinema City Arkadia (p.122) are good options to see the latest kids’ movies on a rainy day. If action packed indoor attractions interest you, Warsaw has Hangar 646 (p.113) for trampolining madness and a Spin City (p.113). Fun Park Digiloo (p.113) is a kids’ paradise with activity rooms including indoor climbing and laser paintball! Right next door is the Water Park (p.115) with slides and fun activities. For the sports obsessed, PGE National Stadium (p.51) offer tours. For the adventurous, there’s an indoor Flyspot (p.113) where you can fly around inside a wind tunnel. IF that’s not enough, FSO Shooting Range (p.112) is immensely fun, and supervised! Sometimes the best thing to do is simply take a charming walk along ul. Nowy Świat (p.40), ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście (p.38) and onward to the Old Town (p.34), where in the warmer months, the area has a family atmosphere. Other outdoor leisure activities could include a visit to Łazienki Park (p.44) with plenty of cute squirrels, peacocks and ducks around! For more animals, check out Warsaw Zoo (p.51)! The Vistulan Boulevards (p.114) are great for those wishing to walk, bike, skate or play in specially installed play areas for the kids. For general cycling, we highly recommend using the Veturilo (p.113) city bike hire service, with plenty of cycle lanes across Warsaw to ride safely. Each Fri/Sat evening in summer you can also enjoy a show at the Multimedia Fountain (p.114) near the Old Town. August – September 2018 115

Shopping

Frew Wille - where artistic flare and passion meet to create some wonderful items!

Paris, London or New York it ain’t, but hard-core shoppers can still find plenty to spend their well-earned lolly on. Warsaw is seeing true growth in the array of shops available and the number of big-name labels that are opening storefronts. Whether it’s western-style malls, designer boutiques, dusty family stores or antique markets, a day spent shopping can result in both bargains and treasures.

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but note that since March 2018 a new law has gone into effect that will eventually ban Sunday trading in Poland entirely. To be phased in gradually over the next two years, the law will initially allow normal trading days on the first and last Sundays of each month, while forcing shops to close on the intervening Sundays. There are only a few exemptions to the rule, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets and souvenir shops. The Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep on those Sunday when trade is allowed. Sundays when the shopping ban will be enforced are the following: August 12, 19 September 9, 16, 23 October 14, 21 116 Warsaw In Your Pocket

AMBER & JEWELLERY ART GALLERY AMBER SILVER LINE This gorgeous gallery specialises in luxury handcrafted jewellery of the amber variety, but crystal, silver and gold items can be purchased here too. This is the location of what is the largest and oldest Amber dealers in the City, a family run business going back to 1988, proudly selling amber of Polish origin - certified by the International Amber Association. Even heads of State and royalty have been spotted procuring presents here, from Bill Clinton to Japanese princesses (whose thank you letters you can see inside)! Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top designers, plus high quality jewellery made with other precious stones.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, www.warsawamber. pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. ART STUDIO JEWELLERY SCHUBERT There’s no end to the amber offerings you’ll find near the Stary Rynek, and here’s another. Helpful sales people and more forms of amber - bracelets, earrings, pins, oh my! than you can imagine.QF‑4, ul. Piwna 12/14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 29 38, www.worldofamber.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00. NEW FREY WILLE Fine jewellery and fashion accessories inspired by masters like Klimt and Mucha. Frey Wille boutique hails from Austria, and what sets it apart from most places is that the items iyp.me/warsaw

Shopping on offer are handmade; The philosophy of the boutique is to create works of art which are rooted in the humanism, pieces which are bourne from an artistic love and passion, indeed, made by artists themselves. What’s more, much of the jewellery undergoes an enamelling process, binding fine glass onto metal, which revolutionised Frey Wille’s works from 1981 onwards to offer the fine pieces you see today. Located on Piłsudski Square, Frey Wille is definitely worth a visit if you’re in the Old Town area.QF‑5, Pl. Piłsudskiego 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 55 03, www.freywille. com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun. GALERIA BURSZTYNEK The Całka family have been in the amber business for two generations and their love of this gift of the Baltic coast makes Galeria Bursztynek the store to visit for stunning jewellery and artefacts, all produced in their own workshop. Not content with just selling you a unique souvenir from your trip to Warsaw they are also keen to educate customers about the history of amber, the craftsmanship involved in working the resin and its many uses throughout the ages. In order to do this, they have turned part of their glamorous Old Town emporium into a permanent and fascinating amber museum. You can find the Old Town location at Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6.QF‑4, ul. Długa 8/14 lok.70, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 508 51 16 80, www.bursztynek.co. Open 10:00 - 18:00. LILOU Phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components and create a unique and personal piece. The range continues to grow, with the original idea of the personalised bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes - hearts, dogs, cats and the likes, and then have it hand engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you. A ‘must have’ item amongst local celebs and fashionistas. Also at ul. Francuska 27, CH Arkadia and Sadyba Best Mall.QH‑9, ul. Mokotowska 63, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 506 19 08 97, www.lilou.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.

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MAGIA BRYLANTÓW This unique and exclusive jewellery shop is handily located on one of Warsaw’s more famous streets, Krakowskie Przedmieście, and right on the way to the Old Town. For that reason alone, there’s nothing stopping you from visiting - we highly recommend it! This is no normal jewellery and antique shop, for it’s run by the very passionate and down to earth Kasia Kałużny-Janus, who is more than eager to help you pick that perfect item. Here, you will find hand-picked glitzy items with an antique feel, with pieces from the 17th20th centuries - two items which caught our eye were 4th century Roman coins made into rings - truly unique. So great is Magia Brylantów that it’s become quite popular amongst Polish celebrities hoping to find their very own distinctive pieces, so if you want that something extra special, this is the perfect place to find it.QG‑5, ul.Krakowskie Przedmieście 62, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 500 80 01 65, www.magiabrylantow.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun. iyp.me/polandblog

August – September 2018 117

Shopping WORLD OF AMBER This is truth in advertising at its best. World of Amber is, literally, a world filled with all things amber. Interested in a three-masted pirate ship made of amber? How about a goblet trimmed in amber? A glasses case? Beyond these unusual trinkets World of Amber also has the usual beads, rings, neck-breaking pendants and bracelets that are a must-have souvenir. The shop has a large number of knowledgeable staff, which means you’re never left lingering over a glass case waiting in vain for service. Which we like even more than the chess set made entirely of amber. We swear. Also at ul. Piwna 12/14 (B-2) and ul. Piwna 26 (B-2). QF‑4, ul. Świętojańska 11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 16 00, www.worldofamber.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES PRACOWNIA PROJEKTOWA ANNA KRZYŻANOWSKA It’s now been a number of years since Anna Krzyżanowska packed in the office rat race in order to follow her passion for fashion. This was a bold and inspired move which has seen her couture creations become some of the most sought out designs in town. Visit her elegant showroom, housed in the glamorous Zamojski palace, to view the collection of reference pieces on display, arrange an initial consultation and decide whether to start the process of designing and creating a unique piece made especially for you. As well as womenswear for all occasions, the studio also offers a bespoke menswear service for the discerning gent.QG‑7, ul. Mikołaja Kopernika 13/1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 500 16 29 24, www. annakrzyzanowska.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun open by prior arrangement. TFH KONCEPT This one-time pop-up shop has set down roots in a snazzy new permanent location, which means you now know exactly where to find the city’s hottest fashions. TFH’s new boutique displays an impressive selection of stylish t-shirts, handbags and tops from a variety of young Polish and international designers as well as tasteful Warsawthemed items like magnets and postcards. They also have paintings and graphics for sale from some of Poland’s best up and coming artists plus frequent exhibitions and gallery openings.QG‑7, ul. Szpitalna 8, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 502 48 83 48, www.tfhkoncept. com. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.

FOOD & SWEETS NAMASTE INDIA Better known as one of Poland’s best takeaways, Namaste also doubles as a bit of a grocery store with a small but decent line of products imported from Asia – including herbal shampoos, heat-and-eat curries, soft drinks and spices. Lots of spices.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia. pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 118 Warsaw In Your Pocket

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Shopping

www.amberwarsaw.pl www.warsawamber.pl iyp.me/polandblog

August â&#x20AC;&#x201C; September 2018 119

Shopping CEPELIA Your first stop for tacky souveniers. Amongst the tat also find traditional Polish handicrafts: table cloths, ceramics, glass etc. Also at ul. Chmielna 8 (G-7).QF‑8, ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 628 77 57, www.cepelia.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 15:00. Closed Sun. GIFTS AND SILVER BY NEPTUNEA A weird little find selling decorative sea shells, minerals, fossils, silver jewellery, oriental furniture and exotic crafts. An absolute treasure, and a must visit if you’re looking for a something a little unique.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 47/51, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 826 02 47, www.giftsandsilver.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. ROCK SHOP You know a city has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe and is there anything which says ‘I’ve been there’ more than a Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the ‘Warsaw’ one to add to your collection at the shop inside the HRC in the Złote Tarasy development opposite the train station. QE‑8, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrock.com/warsaw. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

SAM If you’re looking to stock up on fresh produce, roasted coffee beans, the best homemade breads and all the necessary staples for your kitchen you can do no better than SAM, which is tucked inside this restaurant/bakery near the University library. Organic and local is the name of the game, and it’s always worthwhile to grab a meal before you lug your haul home. Also at Twarda 4.QH‑6, ul. Lipowa 7A, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 600 80 60 84, www.sam.info.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS BOLESŁAWIEC POTTERY If you aren’t familiar with Poland’s famed folk pottery brand, don’t leave the capital without introducing yourself. Handpainted with traditional folk motifs and highly functional, this shop stocks plenty of brightly patterned ceramics and tableware that is sure to prove the perfect gift for anyone you know who has a kitchen. They even speak English! We can’t get enough of it.QD‑7, ul. Prosta 2/14, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 624 84 08, www.ceramicboleslawiec. com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Full contents online: warsaw.inyourpocket.com 120 Warsaw In Your Pocket

SOUVENIRCITY Located in the winding streets of the Old Town, this modern gift shop is the ideal place to pick up a memento of your visit to Warsaw or to snap up a few shiny and very reasonably priced trinkets for ‘them back home’. Fridge magnets, key rings, figurines, t-shirts and a whole host of other items emblazoned with the words ‘Warsaw’ or ‘Polska’ fill the store. They are also the only shop in the area to stock a great selection of products from the legendary Bolesławiec pottery (JPII’s papal pottery of choice) - you’ll recognise the patterns as soon as you see them!QF‑4, ul. Świętojańska 23/25, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 185 58 98, www.souvenir-city.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

MARKETS RÓŻYCKI BAZAR Once regarded as Warsaw’s premier bazaar, the rambling Różycki Bazaar has seen its popularity wane since 1989. Black market trade once thrived under Nazi and communist governments, but nowadays the historic market (it began in 1901) is a ghostly image of its former self. Once considered the place for cardigans, firearms and spurious goods, it’s now a mildly depressing look into working-class Warsaw life. Visitors could easily outfit an entire polyester wedding thanks to the heaps of vendors selling cheap wedding dresses and tacky tuxes. With this in mind, however, the market area itself is currently undergoing renovation; whether this rips the heart and soul out of the market, or brings new fortunes, only time will tell.QJ‑3, ul. Targowa 54, MDworzec Wileński. Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. iyp.me/warsaw

Shopping Puma, Tefal, Tommy Hilfinger and more. To get there take Metro M1 from “Centrum” to “Marymont” and then change to bus 132 and then get off at “Toruńska” bus stop (this stop is by request only so no napping).Qul. Annopol 2 (Białołęka), tel. (+48) 22 441 90 00, www.annopol. factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

PLAC UNII CITY SHOPPING Plac Unii City Shopping is one of the capital’s newest shopping malls and one of its best located as well. Just a few stops from the city centre, head straight to stop ‘pl. Unii Lubelskiej’ using the 501 bus or even easier, tram nos. 4, 18 & 35 (the alternative is to head to Metro Politechnika and walk the short distance to Plac Unii). Walk across the street into the intuitive internal passages, which are an extension of streets converging on Plac Unii, making it easy to access from any direction. Relatively small in size and elegant and modern in design, choose from over 70 shops, restaurants, cafes and outlets including iSpot, Zara, Empik, Hebe, H&M, Douglas, Liu Jo, Bobbi Brown, Tous, Stradivarius, Massimo Dutti and homegrown Polish cult megastore Supersam (open 08:00-21:00). Calypso Fitness Club is also here for the fitness freaks. Despite the Sunday trading ban, restaurants Rioni and Piazza Ristorante remain open.QG‑12, ul. Puławska 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 204 04 99, www.placunii.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

SHOPPING MALLS ARKADIA If you can’t find it in Arkadia, you probably never will. Covering a total area of 287,000 m2 this five floor leviathan stands out as one of the biggest shopping malls in Central Europe, receiving approximately 45,00070,000 visitors a day. For fashion there’s Lacoste, Peek & Cloppenburg, Tommy Hilfiger, New Look and more, a giant Saturn store takes care of all your electronic needs, for foodstuffs there’s Carrefour and foreign press available at Empik. Entertainment comes in the form of a 15-screen multiplex. The food court has recently been expanded, now containing more eateries to choose from. Connected by 9 tram lines, 6 bus routes and with space for 4,000 vehicles. QC‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II 82, MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 22 323 67 67, www.arkadia.com.pl. Open 10:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00; Sun 10:00 - 21:00. FACTORY OUTLET ANNOPOL FACTORY’s second Warsaw location is a little bit out of town but that usually means the further you travel the bigger the discounts! This massive offprice outlet features brands like: Nike, Adidas, Smyk, Ecco, Empik, Guess, Wrangler, Pepe Jeans, Reserved, Mohito, Marc O’Polo, Converse, Vans, 122 Warsaw In Your Pocket

FACTORY OUTLET URSUS This outlet centre is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over other shopping malls. Recognisable names among the brands include Desigual, Adidas, Reserved, Etam, ASICS, United Colors of Benetton, Smyk, Empik, Rossmann, Medicine, New Balance, O Bag and many more. One of the only such outlet centres in Europe, you can access it by taking the SKM train from Śródmieście and getting off at SKM Ursus, or by catching bus 127 at Dworzec Centralny and switching to bus 194 or 716 at PKP Włochy. Your final destination will be UrsusRatusz. If you are traveling by car, take the S8 route or Nowolazurowa street.QPl. Czerwca 1976r. 6 (Ursus), tel. (+48) 22 478 22 70, www.ursus.factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 20:00. VITKAC The giant ‘Gucci’ sign is your first hint this isn’t your typical shopping centre, and the heavy security is the second. Shoppers can find the popular Likus Concept Store on the main level of the sprawling structure while labels like Givenchy, Kenzo, Armani, Dsquared2, Alexander McQueen, Celine, Gucci, Burberry, Valentino and Yves Saint Laurent are spread over the remaining four levels, with roughly three employees available for every browsing customer. The atmosphere is more museum than mall, but if you’re looking to splurge on designer names then this is your headquarters (also visit their online shop). If maxing out your credit card works up an appetite be sure to head to Restauracja Concept 13, which offers sweeping city views.QG‑8, ul. Bracka 9, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 310 73 13, www.vitkac.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. ZŁOTE TARASY Located next to the central train station in the heart of Warsaw, the Złote Tarasy complex signals a bold shift away from the out-of-town malls found in Warsaw and features familiar stores like Forever 21, New Balance, Van Graaf, Reserved, Home&You, LeCreuset, Bath&Body Works, Hugo Boss plus the Warsaw flagship H&M, and as of April, Victoria’s Secret and Victoria’s Secret Pink. Leisure visitors can see a movie at the modern Cinemaplex Multikino Złote Tarasy. There are also over 30 restaurants and bars spread over 5 levels including Poland’s first Hard Rock Café. The central architectural showpiece is a 10,000m glass dome, which fitted with a special mechanism to both filter sunrays and to stop snow from building up.QE‑8, ul. Złota 59, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 222 22 00, www. zlotetarasy.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. iyp.me/warsaw

Directory 24-HOUR PHARMACIES APTEKA BEATAQC‑6, Al. Solidarności 149, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 620 08 18, www.aptekabeata.pl.

CITIZENSHIP ISSUES POLARON Did you know that by having Polish heritage you are eligible for Polish citizenship/passport (an EU Member)? Have you ever tried dealing with Polish bureaucracy? If you plan to do it yourself - good luck. With IYP staff speaking with experience on this matter, we know the situation has improved greatly in the last 10 years, however, it’s nowhere near perfect... far from it - simple issues can be bogged down in red tape and leave you feeling helpless and frustrated, so imagine trying to resolve a citizenship application! Thankfully, this is where Polaron steps in, a blessing in disguise, who will do all the work for you, from a free assessment of your case, sourcing archival documents, translations, completing application forms and liaising with relevant government agencies on your behalf. It’s hard to sum up how stress free you will be not dealing with Polish officials. The best bit, you will get the results you seek, or your money back!Qtel. 0537 645 919, www.polaron.eu.

COMPUTER REPAIR LAPTOPCONTROL.PL QH‑8, ul. Smolna 13/13, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 500 41 03 89, www.laptopcontrol.pl. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Mon, Thu 09:30 - 19:00, Fri 09:30 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. MEGA SERWISQul. Opaczewska 43 lok. 8, tel. (+48) 22 828 44 30, www.laptoprepaircenter.pl. Open 09:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES AMERICAN EMBASSY IN WARSAW QH‑9, Al. Ujazdowskie 29/31 (entrance from ul. Piękna 12), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 504 20 00, www. pl.usembassy.gov. AUSTRALIAN EMBASSY IN WARSAW QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 521 34 44, www.australia.com. AUSTRIAN EMBASSY IN WARSAW QI‑13, ul. Gagarina 34, tel. (+48) 22 841 00 81, www. ambasadaaustrii.pl. BRITISH EMBASSY IN WARSAW QJ‑11, ul. Kawalerii 12, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00, www. gov.uk/government/world/poland. CANADIAN EMBASSY IN WARSAW QH‑9, ul. Matejki 1/5, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 584 31 00, www.canada.pl. 124 Warsaw In Your Pocket

EMERGENCY If you’re ever in need of urgent assistance remember it’s always best to call 112. CENTRALNY SZPITAL KLINICZNY MSW QE‑15, ul. Wołoska 137, MRacławicka, tel. (+48) 22 508 15 10, www.cskmswia.pl. SZPITAL KLINICZNY DZIECIĄTKA JEZUS QD‑9, ul. Lindleya 4, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 502 20 00, www.dzieciatkajezus.pl. DANISH EMBASSY IN WARSAW QF‑6, ul. Marszałkowska 142 (6th floor), MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 565 29 00, www. ambwarszawa.um.dk. DUTCH EMBASSY IN WARSAW QJ‑11, ul. Kawalerii 10, tel. (+48) 22 559 12 00, www.netherlandsandyou.nl/your-country-and-thenetherlands/poland. FRENCH EMBASSY IN WARSAW QH‑9, ul. Piękna 1, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 529 30 00, www.ambafrance-pl.org. GERMAN EMBASSY IN WARSAW QH‑10, ul. Jazdów 12, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 584 17 00, www.polen.diplo.de/Vertretung/polen/pl/ Startseite.html. IRISH EMBASSY IN WARSAW QG‑8, ul. Mysia 5, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 849 66 33, www.dfa.ie/irish-embassy/poland. ISRAELI CONSULATE & EMBASSY IN WARSAW QE‑11, ul. Krzywickiego 24, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 597 05 00, www.israel.pl. ITALIAN EMBASSY IN WARSAW QF‑6, Pl. Dąbrowskiego 6, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 826 34 71, www.ambvarsavia.esteri.it. SOUTH AFRICAN EMBASSY IN WARSAW QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 54, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 622 10 05, www.dirco.gov.za/warsaw. SPANISH EMBASSY IN WARSAW QJ‑11, ul. Myśliwiecka 4, tel. (+48) 22 583 40 00, www. exteriores.gob.es/embajadas/varsovia/es/Paginas/ inicio.aspx. SWEDISH EMBASSY IN WARSAW QH‑12, ul. Bagatela 3, MPole Mokotowskie, tel. (+48) 22 640 89 00, www.swedenabroad.com/warsaw. iyp.me/warsaw

Directory DENTISTS CCS LUDNAQI‑8, ul. Ludna 10A, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 625 01 02, www.ccsludna.pl. DENTALUXQB‑15, ul. Racławicka 131, tel. (+48) 22 823 72 22, www.dentalux.pl.

GENEALOGY NATIONAL ARCHIVE QF‑4, ul. Krzywe Koło 7, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 92 68, www.warszawa.ap.gov.pl. REGISTRY OFFICE QE‑5, ul. gen. Wł. Andersa 5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 443 12 30, www.um.warszawa.pl.

LAUNDRY 5ASECQE‑8, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 693 21 17 99, www.5asec.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. BLANC LYSQul. Antka Rozpylacza 2A, tel. (+48) 508 16 28 10, www.polska.blanc-lys.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

POST OFFICES POCZTA POLSKA QH‑8, Pl. Trzech Krzyży 13, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 81 67, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. POCZTA POLSKA QF‑7, ul. Świętokrzyska 31/33, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 505 32 18, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.

PRIVATE CLINICS CAROLINA MEDICAL CENTERQH‑7, ul. Pory 78, tel. (+48) 22 355 82 00, www.carolina.pl. LUX-MED Also at ul. Domaniewska 41B, ul. 17 Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawła II 78 (C-3) and ul. Bobrowiecka 1 (K-15).QE‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88, www.luxmed.pl. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

REAL ESTATE

RELIGIOUS SERVICES ST PAUL’S ENGLISH SPEAKING CATHOLIC PARISH English-language mass held each Sunday at 12:00. English confessions from 17:00 - 18:00 on Saturday and 11:00 - 12:00 on Sunday.QD‑5, Al. Solidarności 80, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 600 38 49 16, www. warsawcatholics.pl. WARSAW INTERNATIONAL CHURCH (PROTESTANT) English-speaking services every Sunday at 11.00. Entrance from Schillera Street.QF‑4, ul. Miodowa 21B, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 601 33 10 32, www.wic.org.pl.

RELOCATION COMPANIES AGS WORLDWIDE MOVERS Qul.Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 702 10 72, www.agsmovers.com.

COSMOPOLITAN APARTMENTS QD‑8, ul. Twarda 4, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 535 10 10 10, www.apartamentycosmopolitan.pl. PLHF

GOSSELIN MOBILITY Qul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 737 72 01/(+48) 606 80 37 80, www.gosselinmobility.eu/en/ poland.

LOCO REAL ESTATE AGENCY QD‑8, ul. Sienna 72 lok. 14, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 515 00 01 45, www.n-loco.com.

PRO RELOCATION QE‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 630 61 00, www.prorelo.com.

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August – September 2018 125

Hotels

Regent Warsaw Hotel (p.127) is both classy and comfortable - they also have rooftop apiaries producing ‘Łazienki Gold’ Honey!

CREAM OF THE CROP BELLOTTO HOTEL QF‑5, ul. Senatorska 13/15, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 829 64 44, www.hotelbellotto.pl. 20 rooms (4 apartments). PKHDFw hhhhh HILTON WARSAW HOTEL & CONVENTION CENTREQC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 63, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 356 55 55, www.warsaw. hilton.com. 314 rooms (10 apartments). PUL6 KHCDFw hhhh HOTEL BRISTOL WARSAWQG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet,

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted F Fitness centre

H Conference facilities

K Restaurant

U Facilities for the disabled

D Sauna

L Guarded parking on site

6 Animal friendly

w Wellness

C Swimming pool X Smoking rooms available Y WarsawPass Tourist Card

126 Warsaw In Your Pocket

tel. (+48) 22 551 10 00, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl. 206 rooms (41 apartments). PU6K HCD Fw hhhhh INTERCONTINENTAL QE‑8, ul. Emili Plater 49, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. 414 rooms (76 apartments). PUL6KHCD Fw hhhhh MAMAISON HOTEL LE REGINA WARSAW QF‑3, ul. Kościelna 12, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 531 60 00, www.mamaison.com. 61 rooms (2 apartments). PULKHCDFw hhhhh MARRIOTT QE‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 630 63 06, www.warsawmarriott.com. 523 rooms (95 apartments). PUL6KHCDFw hhhhh RADISSON BLU CENTRUM HOTEL QE‑7/8, ul. Grzybowska 24, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 321 88 88, www.bit.ly/RadissonBluWarsaw. 311 rooms (28 apartments). PXUL6KHCDFw hhhhh RAFFLES EUROPEJSKI WARSAW QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 255 95 00, www.raffles. com/Warsaw. 106 Total rooms. P6KDFw hhhhh+ iyp.me/warsaw

Hotels REGENT WARSAW HOTEL QI‑13, ul. Belwederska 23, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 558 12 34, www.regent-warsaw.com. 246 rooms (2 apartments). PXTUL6WKHCD Fw hhhhh RIALTO QF‑10, ul. Wilcza 73, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 584 87 00, www.rialto.pl. 44 rooms (11 apartments). PU 6KHDF hhhhh SHERATON WARSAW HOTEL QH‑9, ul. Prusa 2, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 450 61 00, www.sheraton.pl. 350 rooms (19 apartments). PU L6KHDF hhhhh SOFITEL WARSAW VICTORIA QF‑6, ul. Królewska 11, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 657 80 11, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw. com. 359 Total rooms. PUL6KHCDF hhhhh THE WESTIN WARSAW HOTEL QD‑7, Al. Jana Pawła II 21, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 450 80 00, www.westin.pl. 366 Total rooms. PUL 6KHDF hhhhh

UPMARKET LEONARDO ROYAL HOTEL QC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 45, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 278 88 88, www.leonardo-hotels.com. 178 rooms (1 apartment). PTULKH hhhh MERCURE WARSZAWA CENTRUM QE‑8, ul. Złota 48/54, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 697 39 99, www.mercure.com. 338 Total rooms. PUL 6KHDF hhhh MERCURE WARSZAWA GRAND QG‑9, ul. Krucza 28, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 583 21 00, www.mercure.com. 299 rooms (6 apartments). PU L6KHF hhhh NOVOTEL WARSZAWA CENTRUM QF‑8, ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 596 00 00, www.accorhotels.com. 742 rooms (1 apartment). PULKHDF hhhh POLONIA PALACE HOTEL QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 45, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 318 28 00, www.poloniapalace.com. 206 rooms (1 apartment). PU6KHDFw hhhh RADISSON BLU SOBIESKI HOTEL QC‑9, Pl. Zawiszy 1, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 579 10 00, www.bit.ly/RadissonBluSobieski. 452 rooms (30 apartments). PUL6KHDF hhhh iyp.me/polandblog

MEET THE CONCIERGE Dear Readers of Warsaw in Your Pocket, We are entering the second part of the summer and I would like to present you what Warsaw can offer you during this beautiful season. While spending your evening in the old town area and enjoying the marvellous heritage of this UNESCO listed place, do not forget to walk down towards the Vistula River and find a comfortable place on the hill to admire the beautiful shows at the Multimedia Fountain Park. Performances take place every Friday and Saturday at 9:30pm in August. As the summer comes to an end in September, shows are scheduled a bit earlier at 9:00pm. This performance combining lights, music and water take place under the Royal Castle along the Vistula embankment. This summer, Warsaw will host a very well-known artist from the United Kingdom. Ed Sheeran, who is currently one of the most coveted artists in the world, was going to perform one concert on 11th of August. In order to satisfy the expectations of all Polish fans, the Charm Music agency has decided to organize a second concert of Ed Sheeran at the PGE National Stadium. The event will take place a day later, on 12th of August. I am more than certain that is going to be an unforgettable and incredible show. From 9th until 31st of August in Warsaw the 14th edition of the International Music Festival “Chopin and His Europe” From Chopin to Paderewski will take place. This is an event which brings together the music of Chopin and that of the composers closest to his heart such as Mozart, Bach, Jírovec , Bellini or Haydn. I can assure you that there are going to be great performances as in previous editions. The worldwide piano elite, which includes laureates of the most recent Chopin Competition, will provide you with a truly amazing musical journey. The Jubilee 15th Jewish Culture Festival - Singer’s Warsaw will be a great opportunity to experience a veritable cultural feast for every fan of Jewish culture. From 25 of August until 2 of September more than 200 events will take place and we will be able to see over 250 artists from Poland and many other corners of the world. There are hundreds of other various event in Warsaw planned this summer. If you would like to find out a bit more about them, you can find me by the Concierge desk at InterContinental Hotel. My colleagues and I will do our best to make sure that your stay in Warsaw will be an unforgettable one. Grzegorz Kolendowicz, Concierge at InterContinental August – September 2018 127

Hotels MID-RANGE BEST WESTERN HOTEL FELIX Qul. Omulewska 24 (Praga Południe), MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 22 210 70 00, www.bwfelix.pl. 227 Total rooms. UL6KH hhh BEST WESTERN HOTEL PORTOSQH‑7, ul. Mangalia 3A, MWierzbno, tel. (+48) 22 207 60 00, www. bwportos.pl. 230 Total rooms. UL6KH hhh CAMPANILEQC‑9, ul. Towarowa 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 582 72 00, www.campanile. com.pl. 194 Total rooms. PUL6WK hhh CHOPIN BOUTIQUE BED & BREAKFAST QH‑7, ul. Smolna 14/7, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 829 48 00, www.bbwarsaw.com. P hhhh GOLDEN TULIP WARSAW CENTREQC‑9, ul. Towarowa 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 582 75 00, www.goldentulipwarsawcentre.com. 143 rooms (1 apartment). PU6KHDF hhhh IBIS STYLES WARSZAWA CITY QD‑7, ul. Grzybowska 43, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 488 33 00, www.ibis.com. PTUHF hhh IBIS WARSZAWA CENTRUMQB‑6, Al. Solidarności 165, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 520 30 00, www. hotelibis.com. 173 Total rooms. PUL 6KH hh MDMQG‑10, Pl. Konstytucji 1, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 339 16 00, www.hotelmdm.com.pl. 134 Total rooms. U6KH hhh METROPOLQF‑8, ul. Marszałkowska 99A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 325 31 00, www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. 211 Total rooms. U6KH hhh

RENAISSANCE WARSAW AIRPORT HOTEL Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. (+48) 22 164 70 00, www. renaissance.waw.pl. PUL6KHCDFw hhhhh SOUND GARDEN HOTEL Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 18, tel. (+48) 22 279 14 11, www. soundgardenhotel.pl. 206 rooms (5 apartments). PUL6KH hhh

BUDGET START HOTEL ARAMISQH‑7, ul. Mangalia 3B, MWierzbno, tel. (+48) 22 207 80 00, www.hotelaramis. pl. 210 Total rooms. UL6KH h START HOTEL ATOSQH‑7, ul. Mangalia 1, MWierzbno, tel. (+48) 22 207 70 00, www.hotelatos.pl. 229 Total rooms. UL6KH hh

APARTMENTS AMBASADA APARTMENTSQH‑7, ul. Foksal 1, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 826 52 04, www. apartmentsambasada.com. 6 apartments. 6 P&O APARTMENTSQE‑5, ul. Antoniego Corazziego 4, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 513 10 33 41, www. pandoapartments.com.pl. 160 apartments. UL6 RESIDENCE ST. ANDREW’S PALACE QF‑8, ul. Chmielna 30, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 826 46 40, www.residencestandrews.pl. 24 apartments. PW ROOMMATE APARTMENTS QH‑9, ul. Wilcza 6/10, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 608 38 86 71, www.myroommate.pl. 20 apartments. PXUW

HOSTELS

REZYDENCJA BELWEDERQH‑12, ul. Flory 2, tel. (+48) 22 695 19 00, www.belweder-klonowa.kprp.pl. 35 rooms (6 apartments). PTUKHCDFw

HOSTEL PUFFA LUXQG‑5, ul. Karowa 31, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 535 55 08 55, www. puffahostel.com/pl/drugi-obiekt. W

AIRPORT HOTELS

KROKODYLQul. Czapelska 24 (Praga Południe), MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) ‭510 23 02 62‬, www. hostelkrokodyl.pl. 21 rooms (10 doubles, 1 quad, 9 sixperson roon, 1 eight-person room). L

COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT WARSAW AIRPORT Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 00, www.courtyardwarsawairport.com. 236 rooms (2 apartments). PULKHF hhhh GOLDEN TULIP WARSAW AIRPORT QAl. Krakowska 235, tel. (+48) 22 118 58 58, www. goldentulipwarsawairporthotel.com. 90 rooms (1 apartment). PUL6KHDF hhhh HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS WARSAW AIRPORT Qul. Poleczki 31 (Ursynów), tel. (+48) 22 373 37 00, www. hiex-wa.com. 124 Total rooms. PULH hhh 128 Warsaw In Your Pocket

NEW WORLD ST. HOSTELQG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 27, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 828 12 82, www.nws-hostel.pl. 6 rooms (2 doubles, 1 quad, 1 sixperson room, 2 ten-person room, 34 dorm beds). OKI DOKI CITY HOSTEL QF‑7, Pl. Dąbrowskiego 3, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 828 01 22, www.okidoki.pl. 37 rooms (17 doubles, 3 triples, 2 quads, 9 six-person room, 6 eight-person room, 150 dorm beds). 6Y iyp.me/warsaw

Street Register 1 Sierpnia A-16; B-16 29 Listopada J-11; K-11/12 Adama Idźkowskiego J-9 Adama Mickiewicza C-1; D-1 Adolfa Pawińskiego A-14; B-12/14 Adolfa Suligowskiego K-12/13 Agrykola H/J-11 Akademicka B-11; C-10/11 Al. “Solidarności” A-7/L-1 Al. 3 Maja I-7; J-7 Al. Armii Ludowej E/H-11; H/J-10 Al. Ireny Sendlerowej D-4 Al. Jana Chrystiana Szucha H-10/12 Al. Jana Pawła II B-1/E-9 Al. Jerozolimskie A-10/ H-7 Al. Jerzego Waszyngtona L-6 Al. Józefa Becka L-15 Al. Kazimierza “Dziadka” Lisieckiego H-3; I-3 Al. Księcia Józefa Poniatowskiego K-6/7; L-6 Al. Księdza Józefa Stanka H-9; I-8/9; J-8 Al. Na Skarpie H-8/9; I-9 Al. Niepodległości E-10/12; F-12/16; G-16 Al. Piotra Drzewieckiego D-6; E-6 Al. Polski Walczącej L-13 Al. Przyjaciół H-10 Al. Róż G-10; H-10 Al. Szpitala Ujazdowskiego H-10; I-10 Al. Tysiąclecia L-2/3 Al. Ujazdowskie H-9/12 Al. Wielkopolski D-11 Al. Wincentego Witosa K-16 Al. Wojska Polskiego B/D-1 Al. Wyzwolenia G-10; H-10 Al. Zgrupowania AK “Kryska” J-8/9 Al. Zieleniecka K-4/6; L-6 Aleksandra Fredry F-5 Aleksandra Gierymskiego I-14/15; J-15 Aleksandra Sulkiewicza H-12/13; I-12 Aleksandra Wejnerta G-16 Alfreda Nobla L-7 Alojzego Felińskiego C-1 Andrzeja Frycza Modrzewskiego L-4 Andrzeja Krzyckiego C-10/11 Anny German A-1 Antoniego Edwarda Odyńca E-16/ H-15 Antoniego Józefa Madalińskiego E/H-14 Antoniego Mackiewicza K-4 Antoniego Malczewskiego F/H-16 Architektów A-13/14 Archiwalna A-13; B-13 Armanda Călinescu H-9/10 Artura Grottgera I-13/14 Asfaltowa F-13/14 Bagatela H-12 Bagno E-7; F-7 Balladyny E-14/15 Bandoski I-16; J-16 Barbary Ludwiżanki J-16; K-15/16 Barska A-11; B-11 Bartycka K-12; L-12 Bednarska G-5; H-4/5 Belwederska H-12/13; I-13/14 Berezyńska K-7; L-6/7 Berka Joselewicza L-4 Bernardyńska L-16 Bertolda Brechta H-2; I-1/2 Biała C-6; D-6 Białobrzeska A-11/13; B-10/11 Białostocka J/L-2; J-3 Biały Kamień D-13/14 Bielawska H-16 Bielańska E-5; F-5 Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 roku A-12 Bobrowiecka K-14/16 Bohaterów Getta E-4/5 Bolesława Prusa H-8/9 Boleść F-3; G-3 Bonifraterska D-2/3; E-3/4 Bracka G-8 Bronisława Wieczorkiewicza K-3 Browarna G-5; H-5/6 Brzeska J-3; K-3/4 Bugaj F-3; G-3/4 Bulwar Bohdana Grzymały-Siedleckiego I-6 Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej J-7/8; K-8/9 Bulwar Jana Karskiego F-1/3; G-3/4 Błogosławionego Ładysława z Gielniowa D/ E-11 Cecylii Śniegockiej I-9; J-9 Celna F-4; G-4 Chełmska I/K-14 Chmielna D/G-8; D-9; G-7 Chocimska H-12/13 Chłodna B-7; C-6/7; D-6 Ciasna E-3; F-3 Cicha H-6/7 Ciepła D-6/7 Czerniakowska I-8; J-8/9; K-10/15; L-15/16 Czerska K-13/14 Czeska K-7; L-7 Czynszowa J-1; K-1/2 Częstochowska A-11; B-11 Dawna F-4; G-4

iyp.me/polandblog

Dobra G-4/5; H-5/6; I-6/7 Do Fortu C-15/16 Dolna H-15; I-14/15 Dominika Merliniego H-15/16 Dorotowska A-12; B-11/12 Dowcip F-6; G-6 Dunajecka A-12 Dworkowa H-13/14 Dynasy G-6; H-6 Dziekania F-4; G-4 Dzielna B/D-5; D-4 Dzika B-3; C-3 Dąbrowiecka K-7/8; L-8 Dąbrówki L-6/7 Długa E-4/5; F-3/4 Edwarda Gibalskiego A-5/6 Edwarda Szymańskiego A-8/9 Elektoralna C/E-6; E-5 Elizy Orzeszkowej A-12/13 Emila Zegadłowicza A-8/9 Emila Zoli G-11; H-11 Emiliana Konopczyńskiego G-7; H-6/7 Emilii Plater E-7/9; F-9/10 Esperanto B-4/5 Estońska K-6/7 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej C-16 Fabryczna I-9; J-9 Falęcka G-14 Faustyna Czerwijowskiego H-10/11 Fawory D-1 Filtrowa C/F-11; C-10 Finlandzka K-6/7 Floriańska I-3 Foksal G-7; H-7 Folwarczna K-2; L-2 Francesca Nullo H-9; I-9 Franciszka Bartoszka K-16; L-16 Franciszka Kostrzewskiego J-15/16 Franciszka Ksawerego Dmochowskiego I-9; J-9 Franciszka Salezego Jezierskiego I-10; J-9/10 Franciszkańska E-3; F-3 F. Żwirki i S. Wigury B-15/16; C-11/15 Francuska L-6/8 Freta F-3/4 Fryderyka Chopina G-10; H-10 Gabriela Piotra Boduena F-7; G-7 Galijska L-6/7 Gallijska L-6/7 Garbarska G-4/5 Gen. Józefa Zajączka B/D-1 Gen. M. Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza G-5/6 Gen. Władysława Andersa D-2/4; E-4/5 Genewska L-8/9 Geodetów A-13/14 Gimnastyczna D-15; E-15/16 Gliniana B-4; C-4 Gorlicka A-15/16; B-16 Goworka G-12; H-12 Grażyny G-14; H-14 Grodzieńska K-2; L-1/2 Grzybowska B/E-7; B-8; E-6 Grzymały A-10/11; B-11 Grójecka A-12/14; B-11/12; C-9/10 Górczewska A-6/7 Górnośląska H/J-9 Górska J-13/14 Heleny Kozłowskiej K-16; L-16 Henryka Barona A-6; B-6 Henryka Sienkiewicza F-7 Hoża E/H-9; H-8 Huculska H-14/15; I-14 Ignacego Krasickiego G-15/16 Inflancka C-2/3; D-2/3 Inżynierska I-2; J-2 Iwicka J-13/14 Jagiellońska H-1/2; I-2/3; J-3/4 Jakuba Jasińskiego H-4; I-3/4 Jakubowska K-6/7 Jana Dantyszka C-11; D-11 Jana Feliksa Piwarskiego I-15; J-15 Jana III Sobieskiego I-14/15; J-14/16; K-16 Jana i Jędrzeja Śniadeckich F-10; G-10 Jana Kilińskiego F-4 Jana Piekałkiewicza K-16; L-16 Jana Styki L-7/8 Jana Zamoyskiego J/L-4 Janka Bytnara “Rudego” E-16; F-16 Jankowska B-15/16 Janusza Groszkowskiego I-1/2 Janusza Korczaka B-8/9 Jarosława Dąbrowskiego E-15; F/H-14; F-15 Jasna F-6/7 Jawaharlala Nehru K-13; L-13 Jaworowska I-16; J-16 Jazdów H-9/10; I-10/11 Jazgarzewska J-14/15 Jezuicka F-4; G-4 Johna Lennona H-9/10 Juliana Bartoszewicza G-6; H-6 Juliana Bruna E-13; F-13 Juliana Kulskiego D-14; E-14 Juliana Przybosia G-7; H-7

Jurija Gagarina I/K-13 Józefa Korzeniowskiego B-11; C-11 Józefa Lewartowskiego C-4; D-3/4 Józefa Mianowskiego C-10/11 Józefa Mireckiego “Montwiłła” A-5/6; B-5 Józefa Siemieńskiego A-13/14; B-13 Józefa Szanajcy H-1; I-1 Kaliska B-10/11 Karmelicka C-3/4; D-4/5 Karola Bohdanowicza A-15; B-15 Karola Dickensa A-13/14 Karola Linneusza H-1; I-1 Karola Szymanowskiego I-1 Karowa G-5; H-5 Kawęczyńska K-2; L-2 Kazimierzowska F-13; G-13/15 Kielecka E-13/14; F-14 Kolejowa A/C-9; A-10 Konduktorska I-14/15 Konwiktorska E-2/3 Koszykowa C/H-10; C-9; D-9 Kozia F-4/5; G-5 Krakowskie Przedmieście F-4/5; G-5/6 Kredytowa F-6 Krucza G-8/10 Krzywe Koło F-3/4 Kręta I-12/13 Książęca H-8; I-8 Księcia Trojdena B-13/14; C-14 Księdza Ign. Kłopotowskiego H-4; I-3/4; J-3 Kujawska H-12 Lekarska F-10/11 Leona Kruczkowskiego H-6/7; I-7/8 Leona Schillera F-4 Leszno A/C-6; A-7 Lipowa H-5/6 Lipska K-7; L-6/7 Lubelska L-3/5 Ludna I-8; J-7/8 Ludomira Różyckiego E-14; F-14 Ludwiga van Beethovena J-16; K-16 Ludwika Idzikowskiego K-16; L-16 Ludwika Narbutta E-14; F/H-13; F-14 Ludwika Rydygiera A/D-1; A-2; B-2 Ludwika Waryńskiego G-10/12 Ludwika Zamenhofa D-3/4 Lwowska F-10 Maratońska E-15/16 Marcina Kasprzaka A-8; B-8 Mariensztat G-4 Marii Skłodowskiej-Curie C-11/12 Marszałka Ferdynanda Focha F-5 Marszałkowska E-5/H-12 Maurycego Mochnackiego B-11; C-10/11 Mazowiecka F-6/7 Michała Bałuckiego G-14/15; H-15 Miodowa F-4 Mińska L-4 Mokotowska G-9/11; H-8/9 Moliera F-5 Mordechaja Anielewicza B-5; C-4/5; D-4 Most Świętokrzyski J-5 Mołdawska A-16; B-14/16 Mysia G-8; H-8 Myśliwiecka I-9/10; J-10/11 Młynarska A-5/7 Nalewki D-3/4 Namysłowska I-1; J-1 Niska B-4; C-3/4; D-3 Nowogrodzka C/F-9; F-8; G-8 Nowolipie C-5/6; D-5 Nowolipki B/D-5; D-4; E-4 Nowomiejska F-3/4 Nowowiejska E/G-10 Nowy Zjazd G-4 Nowy Świat G-6/8; H-8 Obozowa A-5 Oboźna G-6; H-6 Obrońców K-7/8; L-7 Odolańska F-15; G-14/15; H-14 Ogrodowa B/D-6; B-7 Okopowa B-3/7 Okólnik H-7 Olesińska G-14; H-14 Olimpijska D-16; E-16 Olszewska G-13; H-13 Ordynacka G-7; H-7 Ossolińskich F-5; G-5 Otwocka L-1/2 Panieńska H-3/4; I-4 Parkingowa G-8 Parkowa I-12/13 Paryska L-8 Pasaż Stefana Wiecheckiego “Wiecha” F-7/8 Pawia B-5; C-5; D-4 Pańska C-8; D-8; E-7 Piaseczyńska I-14/16 Piekarska F-4 Pilicka G-16 Piwna F-4 Piękna F-10; G-9/10; H-9 Pl. Artura Zawiszy C-9

Pl. Bankowy E-5 Pl. Emila Młynarskiego F-7 Pl. Gabriela Narutowicza B-10/11; C-10/11 Pl. generała Józefa Hallera H-1/2; I-1 Pl. Grzybowski E-6/7 Pl. Inwalidów C-1; D-1 Pl. Konstytucji G-10 Pl. Krasińskich E-4; F-4 Pl. marszałka Józefa Piłsudskiego F-5/6; G-6 Pl. Na Rozdrożu H-10/11 Pl. Politechniki F-10 Pl. Powstańców Warszawy F-7; G-7 Pl. Sokratesa Starynkiewicza D-9/10 Pl. Trzech Krzyży G-8; H-8/9 Pl. Unii Lubelskiej H-12 Pl. Zamkowy G-4 Pl. Zbawiciela G-10 Platynowa C-9; D-9 Podchorążych I/K-13 Podwale F-4 Pokorna D-3 Polna F-10/11; G-11/12; H-12 Poselska L-7/8 Powsińska L-16 Powązkowska A-2/3; B-3 Poznańska F-8/10 Promenada I-14 Prosta B/D-8; D-7 Pruszkowska A/C-14 Przechodnia E-5/6 Przejazd C-16 Przyokopowa B-7/9 Przyrynek F-2/3 Próżna E-7; F-7 Ptasia E-6 Puławska G-12/13; H-12/16 Rabindranatha Tagore F-16 Racławicka A-15/H-15 Radna H-6 Radzymińska K-2; L-1/2 Rafała Krajewskiego D/F-1; E-2 Rakowiecka E/G-13 Raszyńska C-9/11 Ratuszowa H-2/3; I-1/2; J-1 Romualda Traugutta F-6; G-6 Rondo Gen. Charles’a de Gaulle’a G-8; H-8 Rondo Ignacego Daszyńskiego C-8 Rondo Jazdy Polskiej G-11 Rondo Jerzego Waszyngtona L-6 Rondo ONZ D-7; E-7 Rondo Romana Dmowskiego F-8 Rondo Stefana Starzyńskiego G-1; H-1 Rondo Zgrupowania AK “Radosław” B-2/3 Rozbrat I-8/10; J-10 Rycerska F-4 Rynek Nowego Miasta F-3 Różana F/H-14 Sandomierska G-13/14 Sanocka B-14 Sapieżyńska E-3 Saska L-6/7 Senatorska E-5; F-4/5 Seweryna Goszczyńskiego G-16; H-16 Siedlecka L-2 Siedmiogrodzka A-8; B-8 Sienna C/E-8 Siewierska A-12; B-12 Skaryszewska K-4; L-4 Skierniewicka A-8 Skwer Herberta Clarka Hoovera G-5 Smocza B-4; C-4/5 Smolna G-8; H-7/8 Sokola J-4/6; K-4 Solec H-6/7; I-7; J-7/9; K-9/10 Sowia G-5 Spacerowa H-12/13; I-13 Spartańska D-16 Spiska B-10; C-10 Spokojna A-3; B-3 Srebrna C-9 Stalowa I-2; J-1/2; K-1 Stanisława Dubois D-3 Stanisława Moniuszki F-7 Stanisława Noakowskiego F-10 Stanisława Skarżyńskiego A-13 Stanisława Staszica A-6/7 Stara F-3 Starościńska G-13 Stawki B/D-3; B-4 Stefana Batorego E/G-12; E-13 Stefana Bobrowskiego A-12/13 Stefana Czarnieckiego C-1 Stefana Jaracza I-6/7 Stefana Okrzei H-4; I-3/4; J-3 Stefana Starzyńskiego G-1; H-1 Strzelecka J-1; K-1 Stępińska J-13/14 Sulmierzycka A-16 Szarych Szeregów A-9; B-9 Szczęśliwicka A-10/12 Szeroki Dunaj F-4 Szkolna F-6/7

Szlenkierów A-6/7 Szpitalna G-7/8 Szwedzka J-1; K-1 Szwoleżerów J-11; K-11 Sąchocka A-15 Sękocińska A-10; B-10 Słoneczna H-12/13 Słupecka B-10; C-10 Służewska H-10 Tadeusza Boya-Żeleńskiego G-12; H-12 Tadeusza Czackiego G-6/7 Tadeusza Korsaka K-2/3 Tadeusza Rejtana G-13; H-13 Tamka G-7; H-6/7; I-6 Tarchomińska K-2/3 Tarczyńska C-9/10 Targowa I-2/3; J-3/4; K-4 Tatarska A-3 Teofila Lenartowicza G-16; H-16 Topiel H-6 Towarowa B-7/8; C-8/9 Trasa Siekierkowska L-14/15 Trębacka F-5; G-5 Twarda C-9; D-7/9; E-7 Tyniecka H-15/16 Tytusa Chałubińskiego E-9/10 Ukryta C-16 Uniwersytecka C-11 Ursynowska G-15; H-15 Walecznych K-7; L-7 Walentego Skorochód-Majewskiego A-13/14 Waleriana Łukasińskiego I-2/3 Waliców C-6; D-6/7 Wandy L-8 Warecka G-7 Warowna C-15/16 Wawelska B/E-11 Wał Miedzeszyński K-7/8; L-8/9 Wałowa E-3/4 Wenantego Burdzińskiego H-1 Widok F-8; G-8 Wiejska H-8/9 Wierzbowa F-5 Wiktorska E/H-15; H-14 Wilanowska J-8 Wilcza E-10; F/H-9; F-10 Wileńska I/K-2; K-1 Williama Heerleina Lindleya D-9/10 Willowa H-13 Winnicka B-12 Wioślarska J-7/9 Wiślana H-5 Wiśniowa F-12/13; G-13/15 Wojciecha Oczki D-9; E-9 Wolność B-5/6; C-6 Wolska A-7; B-7 Wołoska E-14/16 Wronia B-6; C-6/9 Wspólna E/G-9; G-8 Wyb. Gdańskie F-1/3; G-3/4 Wyb. Gdyńskie E-1; F-1 Wyb. Helskie F-1; G-1/3; H-3/4 Wyb. Kościuszkowskie G-4; H-4/6; I-6/7; J-7 Wyb. Szczecińskie H-4; I-4/5; J-5/6; K-6/7 Wyględowska C-15/16 Wójtowska E-2/3; F-2 Wąchocka L-8/9 Wąski Dunaj F-4 Władysława Broniewskiego A-1; B-1 Władysława Korotyńskiego A-14/15; B-15 Władysława Skoczylasa H-1/2; I-2 Zajęcza H-6; I-6 Zakroczymska E-1/3; F-3 Zbyszka Cybulskiego J-14/15 Zgoda F-7; G-7/8 Zielna E-6/7; F-7 Zwierzyniecka K-12/13; L-13 Zwycięzców K-8; L-8 Zygmunta Krasińskiego A-1 Zygmunta Modzelewskiego F-16 Zygmunta Słomińskiego B-3/ F-1 Ząbkowska J-3; K-2/3 Złota D-8; E-8; F-7 Łazienkowska J-10; K-10 Łochowska L-1/2 Łomżyńska L-1/2 Łowicka E-13/15; F-15 Łucka B-8; C-7/8; D-7 Łukasza Górnickiego D-11 Śliska D-8; E-7/8 Śmiała D-1 Środkowa J-1/2 Św. Andrzeja Boboli D-13; E-13/14 Świętej Barbary F-9 Świętojańska F-4; G-4 Świętojerska D-4; E-3/4; F-3 Świętokrzyska D/G-7; G-6 Świętych Cyryla i Metodego I-2/3 Żelazna C-5/7; D-7/9 Żupnicza L-4 Żurawia F-9; G-8/9 Żytnia A/C-6

August – September 2018 129

Index 12on14 Jazz Club 105 AB Everest 28 Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature 37 Adventure Warsaw 28 A Footbridge of Memory 56 AïOLI Cantine 84 AleGloria 86 Ambasada Apartments 128 Amber Room 86 Arkadia 122 Art Gallery Amber Silver Line 116 Art Studio Jewellery Schubert 116 Atelier Amaro 82 Banjaluka 73 Bar and Books 101 Bar Mleczny Familijny 96 Barn Burger 72 Bar&Restaurant Warszawa 106 Bar Salad Story 96 Bar Studio 101 Beef n’ Pepper 84 Bellotto Hotel 126 Belvedere 88 Benihana 83 BEST WESTERN Hotel Felix 128 BEST WESTERN Hotel Portos 128 Bierhalle 104 BLACK Real Burgers 'n' Bar 71 Blikle Café 68 Bolesławiec Pottery 120 Bollywood Lounge 76 Boska Praga 76 Brasserie Warszawska 88 Bristol Wine Bar 106 BrowArmia 105 Bubble Waffle 96 Buddha Indian Restaurant 76 Bułkę przez Bibułkę 68 Bungee Jumping Mario 112 Burger Bar 72 Butchery & Wine 84 Cafe Mozaika 88 Cafe Próżna 68 Café Vincent 75 Campanile 128 Central Committee of the Polish United Workers' Party 61 Cepelia 120

130 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Česká Pivni Restaurant 74 Ceviche Bar 96 Champions Sports Bar & Restaurant 102 Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 68 Chopin Benches 43 Chopin Boutique Bed & Breakfast 128 Chopin Monument & Temple of Sibyl 45 Chopin Mural 43 Chopin Point Warsaw 43 Church of the Nuns of the Visitation 43 City Sightseeing Warsaw 28 Club Capitol 108 Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whisky 101 Copernicus Science Centre 33 Courtyard by Marriott Warsaw Airport 128 Coyote Bar & Night Club 111 CREATours 28 Croque Madame 69 Cud Miód 88 Cud nad Wisłą 106 Czerwony Wieprz 88 Dawne Smaki 88 Do Bo Do 88 Dom Faraona 86 Dom Polski 90 Dom Polski Belwederska 90 Du-za Mi-ha 98 Eat Polska 29 Elixir by Dom Wódki 90 El Popo 97 Essence Beauty Clinic 115 Ethnographic Museum 41 E. Wedel Chocolate Lounge "Old-Fashioned Shop" 69 FACTORY Outlet Annopol 122 FACTORY Outlet Ursus 122 Fat Buddha 73, 102 Florian Ogień czy Woda 91 Flyspot Warsaw Indoor Skydiving 113 Folk Gospoda 91 Former Gestapo HQ 33 Free Speech Memorial 61 Frey Wille 116 Fryderyk Chopin Birthplace & Park in Żelazowa Wola 65

Fryderyk Chopin Museum 43 FSO Shooting Range 112 Fun Park Digiloo 113 Fusion 75 Galeria Bursztynek 117 Genesis + steak 76 Ghetto Heroes Monument 57 Gifts and Silver by Neptunea 120 Golden Tulip Warsaw Airport 128 Golden Tulip Warsaw Centre 128 Gościniec Polskie Pierogi 91 Grand Kredens 78 Groole 96 Grunt i Woda 106 Hala Gwardii 78 Hala Koszyki 78 Hangar 646 114 Hard Rock Cafe 71, 75, 102 Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Convention Centre 126 Hocki Klocki 106 Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport 128 Holy Cross Church 43 Hostel Puffa Lux 128 Hotel Bristol Warsaw 126 How You Doin'? 69 Hustler Gentlemen's Club 111 Hydrozagadka 102 Ibis Styles Warszawa City 128 Ibis Warszawa Centrum 128 InterContinental 126 ISKRA Pole Mokotowskie 102 Jazz Club Akwarium 105 Jewish Ghetto Wall Fragment 57 Jewish Historical Institute 54 Kamanda Lwowska 98 Katyń Museum 30 Kawiarnia Krucza 23 69 Kino Muranów 113 Kita Koguta 103 Krokodyl 128 Kuchnia Warszawska 92 Kufle i Kapsle 105 La Playa 106, 114 La Sirena: The Mexican Food Cartel 97 L'avanti Restaurant & Cocktail

bar 84 Legends British Bar & Restaurant 102 Leonardo Royal Hotel 127 Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne 75 Lilou 117 Literatka 92 Lokal Vegan Bistro 98 Lokanta 86 Luzztro 108 Magia Brylantów 117 Mamaison Hotel Le Regina Warsaw 126 Mango Vegan Street Food 76 Marriott 126 MDM 128 Memorial to the Evacuation of Warsaw Ghetto Fighters 57 Mercure Warszawa Centrum 127 Mercure Warszawa Grand 127 Merliniego 84 Metropol 128 Miau Cafe 69 Miła 18 Bunker 57 Miłość 81 Miniature Park 30 Mleczarnia Jerozolimska 96 Modlin Fortress 65 Mokotowska 69 92 MOMU 93 Monique Bakery & Wine 69 Monument to the Warsaw Uprising 59 Multikino Złote Tarasy 113 Multimedia Fountain Park 114 Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship 46 Museum of Life in the PRL 63 Museum of Modern Art on the Vistula 30 Myślewicki Palace 46 N58 Club 108 NA LATO Day & Night 109 Namaste India 76, 118 National Museum 32 Neon Museum 52 New Orleans Gentlemen's Club 111 New World St. Hostel 128 Niebo 109

iyp.me/warsaw

Index Nocny Market 79 Novotel Warszawa Centrum 127 Nożyk Synagogue 54 Odette Pastry Shop 69 Oh My Pho 73 Oki Doki City Hostel 128 Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery 54 Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre 37 Olé Restaurant & Cocktail Bar 79 Opera 109 Orzo People Music Nature 86 Palace of Culture & Science 63 Palace on the Island 45 Palmiry National Memorial & Museum 32 Panorama Sky Bar 103 PGE National Stadium 51 Piazza Ristorante 82 Pies Czy Suka 103 Pinball Station 114 Piw Paw 105 Plac Grzybowski 55 Plac Konstytucji 62 Plac Unii City Shopping 122 Playhouse Gentleman's Club 111 P&O Apartments 128 Polish Army Museum 33 Polonia Palace Hotel 127 Poster Museum 49 Pracownia Projektowa Anna Krzyżanowska 118 Praga District Museum 50 Praski Park Bears 50 Presidential Palace 39 Prime Cut 79 Prodiż warszawski 93 Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel 126 Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel 127 Raffles Europejski Warsaw 126 Regent Warsaw Hotel 127 Renaissance Warsaw Airport Hotel 128 Residence St. Andrew's Palace 128 Restauracja Ambasada 98

iyp.me/polandblog

Restauracja Kultura 79 Restauracja Oliva 86 Restauracja Plato 80 Restauracja Pod Gigantami 93 Restauracja Różana 94 Restauracja Rusiko 75 Rezydencja Belweder 128 Rialto 127 Rock Shop 120 Room 13 Club & Lounge 110 Roommate Apartments 128 Royal Castle 36 Różycki Bazar 120 Ruins of the Rising 57 Ruza Roza 74 Salto 72 SAM 120 Saska Kępa - Ul. Francuska 52 Senses 82 Sexy Duck 82 Sheraton Warsaw Hotel 127 Silk & Spicy 97 Smolna 110 Sofitel Warsaw Victoria 127 Sokotra 86 SomePlace Else 72, 102 Soto Sushi 83 Sound Garden Hotel 128 SouvenirCity 120 Soviet War Cemetery 63 Spacca Napoli 82 Spin City 113 Stara Kamienica 94 Start Hotel Aramis 128 Start Hotel Atos 128 Strefa Restaurant & Bar 80 Super Segway Tours 29 TAPAS Gastrobar 96 TFH Koncept 118 THAISTY 98 Thai Thai 98 The Alchemist GastroPub 103 The Cool Cat 80 The ROOTS Cocktail Bar & more 104 The View Warsaw 110 The Westin Warsaw Hotel 127 The Wilanów Palace Museum 48 To Lubię 75 Tourist Information 28 Trattoria Da Antonio 82

U Barssa 94 U Fukiera 94 Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/CSW) 46 UKI UKI 84 ul. Marszałkowska 62 ul. Ząbkowska 51 Umschlagplatz 57 U Szwejka 74 Veg Deli 98 Vege Miasto 76 Venti-Tre 83 Veturilo 113 Vistulan Boulevards 114 VITKAC 122 Vodka Museum 30 Walk in the Sky 112 Warsaw City-Tour 29 Warsaw Museum 37

Warsaw Self-Drive Tour 29 Warsaw University Library Gardens 115 Warszawa Wschodnia 94 Warszawski Sznyt 81 Wawel 69 Wieniawa Bistro Bar 94 Wilanów Park & Gardens 48 Winestone 81 Winosfera 108 Woda Ognista 104 Wodny Park 115 World of Amber 118 Zachęta - National Gallery of Art 41 Zapiecek 94 Zegrze Reservoir 65 Złote Tarasy 122 Zoo 51

FEATURES & CATEGORIES Airport Transfers 13 Breakfast 75 Copernicus Science Centre 33 Decoding the Menu 74 Facts & Figures 18 Jazz 105 Language Smarts 18 Market Values 18 Meet the Concierge 127 Metro-Morphosis 16 Michelin-starred 82 Neon Museum 52 Polish Vodka 104 Presidential Palace 39 Quick Eats 96 Riding the Polish Rails 15 Royal Castle 36 Saski Palace 32 Sports on TV 102 Steak 84 Street Art 8 The Story of Syrenka 29 Tipping Tribulations 90 Tourist Information 28 Useful Transport Apps 17 Vodka Museum 30 Warsaw with the Kids 115 WarsawPass 28 ZOO 51 August – September 2018 131

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POWIŚLE

Dom Polski Restaurant invites you to their two locations

Dom Polski - 20 years of tradition ul. Belwederska 18, 00-762 Warszawa tel. 22 840 50 60 lub 22 840 50 15 e-mail belwederska@restauracjadompolski.pl

ul. Francuska 11, 03-906 Warszawa tel. 22 616 24 88 lub 22 616 24 32 e-mail francuska@restauracjadompolski.pl

www.restauracjadompolski.pl

Chocimska 7, Warsaw tel. 22 848 12 25, 22 848 15 90 rozana@restauracjarozana.com.pl www.restauracjarozana.com.pl

Warsaw In Your Pocket - August - September 2018

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Street Art in Warsaw