Warsaw In Your Pocket - February- March 2019

Events

Sightseeing

Restaurants

Nightlife

Shopping

Hotels

Maps

Warsaw No. 109, February – March 2019

City Guide

A History of Polish Vodka

p.8

MMA Fight Exclusive Night p.22 Body Worlds Exhibition

p.24

e M ss i K , Bare-to-there styles dare-to-wear Stores in Warsaw: Złote Tarasy, Złota 59 Arkadia, Al. Jana Pawła II 82

Contents

Warsaw Feature A History of Polish Vodka p.8

Distillation of alcohol across Europe took on many forms through the centuries, from alchemy to making backyard concoctions

Arrival & Transport

12

Local Flavours

City Basics

18

Traditional Polish Dishes Polish Alcohol

What's On 20

Restaurants

Sightseeing

Nightlife

Essential Warsaw Sightseeing Old Town The Royal Route Chopin Łazienki Wilanów Praga Jewish Warsaw Warsaw Uprising Communist Warsaw Walking Tour

27 28 34 38 42 44 47 50 54 58 60

Further Afield Łódź

64 66

Cafés

68

4 Warsaw In Your Pocket

70 102 72

Adult Entertainment

104 115

Activities & Leisure

116

Shopping

120

Directory

128

Hotels

130

Maps & Indexes Street Index Listings Index Features Index City Map City Centre Map

133 134 135 136 138

WARSAW DINING DESTINATION

A PLACE

PLENTY

TO MEET & EAT

OF RESTAURANTS

LIVE MUSIC

EVERY FRIDAY & SATURDAY

FEEL UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE

Visit Koszyki 63. Koszykowa Street 200 parking places 5 mins from Warsaw Central Station

HalaKoszyki

www.koszyki.com

HalaKoszyki

Foreword Welcome to wintry Warsaw and the first Warsaw In Your Pocket of 2019! The start of a new year brings with it a fresh and frigid start. While the weather may not be ‘tourist friendly’ per se, cold temperatures and snow drifts are the perfect excuse to get inside to see some of Warsaw’s many amazing museums - two of the newest are vodka museums, which are fascinating, to say the least! Check out our feature on the history of Polish Vodka on p.8 to learn more about the Polish spirit! It’s no surprise it can be cold in winter, and some people love to be out and about, and if it’s snowy, a walk in one of the city’s many parks is a picturesque must! Whatever your interest, may it be Art, Polish History, Science, Music, Religion, Jewish Heritage - Warsaw’s got you covered. Make sure to check out our Sightseeing (p.26) to read up on Warsaw’s essential sights. February and March also typically bring with them a flurry of indoor entertainment options and 2019 doesn’t disappoint. Check page 20 for a list of events taking place in the city over the winter period. As always, let us know how you got on in Warsaw on our Facebook page (/WarsawInYourPocket) and/or show us what you’ve seen during your time in the city by using the hashtag #Warsawinyourpocket through social media, or if you prefer, just use good old fashioned email: poland@inyourpocket.com.

Andrew Elliott has been living in Warsaw since 2016. With close ties to Poland, he finally decided to make the big leap from Scotland to get a more in-depth grasp of this fascinating country. Personal interests include astronomy, current affairs, food & drink, photography & videography! He even has a slight penchant for history.

6 Warsaw In Your Pocket

COVER STORY This isn’t just a random decorative gnome at the gate to an old building - it acted as protection by preventing entering carriages damaging the walls. The building in question is on ul. Próżna, once part of the Jewish Ghetto (p.55). Photo: Mat Fahrenholz.

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 25,000 copies published every 2 months Writer & Editor: Andrew Elliott Sales Consultant: Jarek Śliwiński (+48) 606 749 643 Events & Marketing: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 879 494 Events Editor: Jason Neale Research: Mateusz Gofroń, Agata Janik, Dominika Sosnowska Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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Before monopolies standardised bottle shapes, bottles were made to stand out amongst the competition! | Photo: Vodka Museum

A History of Polish Vodka Does vodka originate in Poland? Maybe Russia? Is it a little bit more complicated than that, just like most of world history? It’s certainly a fascinating subject with the usual twists and turns of a good story.

Read on to find out more.

8 Warsaw In Your Pocket

A History of Polish Vodka The chances are if you’re reading this, you’ve already encountered Polish hospitality and experienced the wonderful Polish spirit (we mean vodka, but the people are lovely too!). You’ve clanked your shot glasses, proclaimed ‘na zdrowie’ to your hosts, and downed it in one, the eager expectation visible in their eyes, hoping you enjoyed it, and the even greater hope that you continue to drink more with them...

Now, it’s at this point discussions arise concerning anything from family to politics, or general chit-chat, but often the conversation steers towards vodka itself – it’s variations, each individual’s preferred brand, and if a foreign guest is present, the history and origins of vodka itself. “Vodka was invented in Poland, no doubt about it!” a host once proudly proclaimed to us.

It’s at this stage you begin to think back to what limited knowledge you may have of vodka, with connotations firmly fixed on Russian stereotypes - ‘Is it possible that vodka was indeed a Polish creation?’, you ask yourself. Time for a quick history lesson...

In Poland, the name for the drink is ‘wódka’, and ‘vodka’ in Russian which refers to ‘little water’, with the origin for both stemming from each country’s respective words for ‘water’ (woda in Polish, voda in Russian). The Russian name is the one which has stuck in the English language, most likely because it’s easier to read and pronounce!

Documented evidence of the origins of vodka is fairly scant, though some vague sources claim it was created in Poland in the 8th century, others that it was in 9th century Russia (both with a lower alcohol content). There are also references to distillation in Khylnovsk, Russia in 1174 in the Vyatka Chronicle, however, using the term ‘distillery’ in this example conjures up an image of how modern day distillation looks, which is very different to the rudimentary process in the 12th century which produced a much weaker drink with a lower alcohol content, something akin to a bread wine – a far cry from the vodka we recognise today.

The key factor to remember with the issue of vodka making through the centuries is that early variations were often weaker bread wines or something more similar in taste to brandy, and crucially, although different from vodka, they are often used to lay claim to the early origins of vodka.

Museum of Polish Vodka on the site of a former vodka factory!

© Polish Vodka Museum

A very old example of Goldwasser in the Vodka Museum

Let’s look beyond the hearsay and focus on good ole facts, huh? The art of distillation was created by Arab scholars in the 8th century (the origin of the word ‘alcohol’ comes from ‘al-kuhl’, however, it was used for purely medicinal purposes) who brought it to Europe through Iberia, the technique spreading to Italy then the rest of Europe in the 15th century through Benedictines, Cistercians and merchants.

As for Poland’s involvement, the original word for vodka is ‘gorzałka’ (a term still used today!), which can be translated as ‘burning water’, emphasising a spicy and bitter taste. The term is first found in a 1405 document called ‘Akta Grodzkie’ (recorder of deeds) from the Palatine of Sandomierz, which preceded any documented mention of ‘vodka’ as we know it today. Gorzałka was often used in Poland due to its original medicinal use for treating wounds, illnesses etc. (remember this was a time of the black death in Europe). So too was the first mention of this ‘fire water’ in Russia found in 1533, detailing import from Poland by merchants for medical use. It was in 1534 ‘gorzałka’ is again documented in the medical manual ‘On Herbs and Their Potency (O ziolach y o moczy gich) by Stefan Falimierz. It was around this time people began to drink gorzałka for pleasure. Fast-forward to the 18th century to find any mention of Russian ‘vodka’, specifically, a decree by Empress Catherine I in 1751 which regulated the ownership of vodka distilleries, and you see why Poles are proud of their claims on their national drink and by a good few hundred years!

The history of vodka distillation, whether in Poland or in Russia, is fascinating. Visit any vodka museum and you’ll see a plethora of vodka bottles of all shapes and sizes, used as a means to stay a step ahead of the competition (this only changed when monopolies began to appear, standardising bottle shapes into the less extravagant forms we see today). Of particular interest are the many detailed recipe books on sale across the region over the last few hundred years, which allowed any old Tom, Dick and Harry to make their own vodka (legally!). Indeed, backyard distillation was not uncommon through central and eastern Europe.

Russian bread wine making, which was so popular across Russia for centuries (arguably more popular at this stage than vodka) was dealt a heavy blow in 1882, thanks to Czar warsaw.inyourpocket.com

9

A History of Polish Vodka

Vodka tasting in the Vodka Museum

Alexander III who, for want of a better phrase, was money hungry, and declared all non-vodka spirits illegal in Imperial Russia! As only the Czar himself had the latest technology to make true vodka, his decree ensured a total monopoly of the Russian spirits market – vodka was now firmly rooted in the minds of the people as the Czar’s drink! The tradition of backyard stills ended, and the true Russian drink – bread wine, not vodka – faded from memory. It seems vodka and national identity would become intertwined and continue to grow in Russia, even during the Communist era, leaving the rest of the world to associate vodka production with Russia, leaving poor old Poland somehow neglected...

And what about vodka distillation in Poland around this time? Well, you probably know the country didn’t exist as a country for 123 years, and although things were tough on the vodka front in Imperial Russia, in other parts of partitioned Poland, there was opportunity to build something special...

Poland’s oldest large scale distillery, known to you and I as ‘J.A. Baczewski’ was started by Layb Baczels in 1782 in a small village called Wybranówka near what was then Polish Lwów (current day Lviv in Ukraine) under Habsburg rule, before being moved to the city suburb of Zniesienie in 1810. Layb died in this same year, however, as time went on, his family changed their surname to...Baczewski, and his descendents Maksymilian, Józef Adam, Leopold, Stefan, Henryk and Adam would oversee the success of the company (the vodka recognised as a mark of high quality) until the outbreak of World War II and subsequent Communist rule put an end to the empire. To this day, the abbreviation for ‘Józef Adam’ still precedes the Baczewski company name, although the vodka is no longer produced in Poland. J.A. Baczewski is by no means the oldest Polish vodka; the popular Żubrówka (Bison Grass) has been in production since the 16th century, and the Gdańsk favourite Goldwasser, containing gold flakes, has been around since 1598.

Vodka is a fascinating drink with a great history, so it’s no surprise both Poland and Russia claim it as their own. The truth is, there will never be a concise answer to whether vodka is a purely Polish or Russian creation, with so little in terms of documented evidence available of its origins.

10 Warsaw In Your Pocket

So scant is firm evidence that all too often fabricated ‘facts’ are often repeated across all mediums. Possibly the biggest falsification (and the one which is often repeated) came from a Russian author and nationalist, Viliyam Vasilievich Pokhlyobkin, wishing to attribute first vodka production to Russia. He wrote A History of Vodka, published in 1991. The book was heavily criticised a few years later by the peer-reviewed journal Slavic Review for the many inaccuracies and fabrications of dates and statistics that it contained. Pokhlyobkin also wrote there had been a trade war between Poland and the USSR in 1978-1982 to claim the name ‘vodka’, which he said he was asked to investigate on behalf of the USSR, leading to Poland losing the case on the basis of his ‘evidence’. One problem though - no such case ever occurred, he made it up. Unfortunately, this hasn’t stopped a plethora of unwitting sites, bloggers, journalists and writers repeating the lie (VICE being a major victim having made a documentary on the subject).

Where does this leave us? Well, we’d go out on a limb to suggest the tradition of making ‘wódka’ (gorzałka) originated in Poland well before Russia (which should in itself be proud of bread wine), however, the true origin is most likely a regional phenomenon across central and eastern Europe (specifically parts of Poland, Belarus, Ukraine, Russia), in what where then fluid borders, and when no true national identities existed amongst European peoples. But damn, Poland really does do it well. It’s best we leave you with an afterthought, one from actor Hugh Laurie: “...Russian vodka is OK if you need to clean the oven.

For drinking, it must henceforth be Polish.” Here, here!

WHAT TO SEE Those of you who wish to find out more about the history of Polish vodka are in for a pleasant surprise Warsaw has two fantastic museums dedicated to the national drink. The Vodka Museum (p.30) is located in the city centre and the Museum of Polish Vodka in the eastern district of Praga (p.52). Both approach the topic in a different style, but are fascinating insights into the spirit of Poland. Vodka tastings take place at the end of each museum visit where you’ll be taught to treat vodka like a good whiskey or fine wine. Chin, chin.

POLISH VODKA MUSEUM See p.52.QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 1, MDzworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 50, www. muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. Admission 40zł. L­6 VODKA MUSEUM See p.30.QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 657 11 21, www.muzeumwodki. pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Fri, Sat 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 19zł.

Arrival & Transport

By Bus or By Car, Warsaw is Poland’s most navigable city by far.

BY TRAIN Warsaw’s main train station, Centralna, is a hulking metal giant that sits conveniently in the city’s centre and is the main hub for trains arriving in the capital. Additionally, passengers may disembark at the smaller Warszawa Wschodnia (Warsaw East station) between Praga Północ and Praga Południe districts, and Warszawa Zachodnia (Warsaw West station) on the border of Ochota and Wola districts.

WARSZAWA CENTRALNA TRAIN STATION Warsaw Central Station (Warszawa Centralna) is exactly what it says on the tin: central. And thanks to recent renovations, we’re happy to say it’s now easier to navigate.

Once you alight from your train, take one of the two facing escalators in the centre of the platform, which lead you up into one of the underground passages that flank the main hall. Whichever side you come up on you will be one level below ground level and the ticket hall. Kantors can be found in the underground passageway between Centralna and the Marriott. Signs for ATMs (bankomats) are everywhere, and the machines can be spotted at almost every turn.

Tourist info can be found across the street at the Palace of Culture - just look for the ‘i’ sign (open daily May-Sep 08:00-19:00 and Oct-Apr 08:00-18:00). Tickets for the public transport system can be bought from most newspaper kiosks. Left luggage is located in the underground corridor that runs below the main hall. Look for Przechowalnia Bagażu, where stewards will look after your bag, or opt for one of the plentiful lockers. Connect to a Polish network via mobile by getting SIM and pre-paid cards from the same newsagents (you now need to register any new SIM card so expect a bit of a wait).

12 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Both entrances of the main hall are covered by taxi ranks, and by passing via tunnels under the main road you’ll find bus and tram stops though once you enter, the signs are more of a hindrance than a help and you may never be seen or heard of again. Officially sanctioned SAWA taxis and ELE taxis can be called to pick you up.

On the ground level there is a travel office run by Polish rail on the Złote Tarasy side of the building to the right of the stairs heading down to the platforms under the Centrum Obsługi Klienta sign (info line 197 57, www.intercity.pl).

Open from 09:10 - 20:30, the multi-lingual staff (they can even assist the deaf ) can search for the cheapest/easiest connection, sell you international and domestic tickets, and can help plan your trip for you. There is a new info point called InfoDworzec open 07:00 - 21:00 which offers more general tourist info.

The selection of outlets selling food and drink at Centralna has improved dramatically. There are all kinds of local and international coffee joints, fast food chains and kebab shops to grab a quick bite or pass some time.QE‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 54, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 391 97 57 (from foreign mobile phones). Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made between 24:00 - 01:00.

WARSZAWA WSCHODNIA TRAIN STATION QL‑3, ul. Kijowska 20, tel. (+48) 22 391 97 57 (from foreign mobile phones). Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made between 24:00 - 01:00.

WARSZAWA ZACHODNIA TRAIN STATION QAl. Jerozolimskie 142, tel. (+48) 22 391 97 57 (from foreign mobile phones). Open 24hrs.

Arrival & Transport

BY PLANE WARSAW CHOPIN AIRPORT Warsaw Chopin Airport has recently seen the opening of Zone CDE, a glass and steel giant that sits rather awkwardly next to the newly renovated Zone AB. Both Zones AB and CDE have a wealth of shops, restaurants, tourist and public transport (ZTM) info, ATM machines, fast food (McDonald’s!), car rental offices, exchange offices etc. and they are collectively called Terminal A. A new viewing platform has recently opened and is free from 06:00 - 22:00 and located near the entrance to the train platform. There is also a Kiss and Fly parking zone where you can drop passengers off for free (the first 5 times) up to 7 minutes (careful because for 15 mins it’s 30zł). Other stops cost 5zł p/7 mins. Long stay multi-storey car parks P1, P2 and P4 (rooftop for vehicles over 2m in height) vary in prices: 1h 10zł, 24h 120zł, 2 days 200zł, 3 days 280zł, 4 days 360zł, 5 days 440zł, 6-10 days 250zł, 11-15 days 300zł and 20zł for an additional day.

The taxi rank outside exits 1 and 2 offers four certified companies: iTaxi, MPT and Ele Taxi. The 15-30 minute ride to the centre costs around 35-50zł, though be on guard for unlicensed sharks who will try to charge three or four times that. After hearing several complaints, we suggest agreeing on the price with your driver before setting off.

Cheapskates can catch the brand new train into the city or get bus number 175.

The train station can be found underground by turning right outside of whichever arrivals area you leave from and going all the way to the end of the covered section where you will find escalators taking you down to ticket booths. The SKM trains run several times an hour and are red and white in colour. Line S2 takes you to Śródmieście station in the city centre and runs twice an hour, while line S3 takes you to Warszawa Centralna station and runs once an hour.

To take one of these trains you need a normal public transport ticket (exactly the same as what you’d use for the bus) that are available from the ticket booths and cost 4.40zł. The KM trains run once per hour, are green and white, and will take you to Centralna. They have their own ticket office at the station with a fixed price of 6.80zł, but you can use an SKM ticket here as long as you have the train driver validate it. They also have a new ticket available which covers your transfer from Chopin to Modlin Airport and also gives you 75 minutes travel in the first zone of ZTM (19zł). The train ride to the centre should take around 20 minutes.

Bus stops can be found in front of arrivals at Zone AB and Zone CDE. Buses run frequently between 04:28 and 22:58 with journey time taking approximately 25 minutes. At night when the 175 stops running travellers can take the N32 night bus, which runs every 30 minutes.Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. (+48) 22 650 42 20, www.lotnisko-chopina.pl.

Please contact us

+48 722 261 731

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AIRPORT TRANSFERS - Warsaw Chopin, Modlin POLAND TOURS • Auschwitz, • Krakow, • Salt Mine in Wieliczka, • Warsaw Outskirts, • Bialowieza National Park, • Wolf Laire, • Torun, • Czestochowa, • Gdansk, and more...

SIX YEARS EXPERIENCE

AIRPORT TRANSFERS AB EVEREST TRAVEL Relieve the strain of standing around looking lost and bewildered at Modlin by booking the ‘door-to-door’ services of AB Everest. Fill out the English reservation form on their website (total prices are confirmed during the booking process) and an English speaking driver will be waiting to whisk you straight to your destination. Prices start at 25zł per person but the price gets cheaper the more passengers there are travelling to the same address. Check their website for details.

They also offer one day tours from Warsaw to popular destinations across Poland, which include: Auschwitz and Kraków, Wieliczka Salt Mine, Hitler’s former Wolf’s Lair, Białowieża National Park, Toruń and Warsaw Outskirts Tour, to name a few.Qul. Obrońców Tobruku 18, tel. (+48) 722 26 17 31, www.abeverest.pl.

MODLIN BUS Modlin Bus offers transfers from Modlin Airport to the centre of Warsaw, with drop-offs in front of the Palace of Culture (E-8 - in front of ‘Kinoteka’ on Al. Jerozolimskie) and Chopin Airport, and onward travel to Łodź. Tickets start at 9zł if you book ahead online; at their desk near the airport’s exit you’ll pay 23-35zł for travel to Warsaw and 25-45zł to Łódź. All buses equipped with wi-fi.

Qtel. (+48) 703 40 39 93, www.modlinbus.com. warsaw.inyourpocket.com 13

Arrival & Transport

BY CAR

WARSAW-MODLIN AIRPORT Modlin Airport looks like a shiny overturned tin can nestled in a forest in the middle of nowhere. This is one of the biggest cheap airline hubs in Poland and RyanAir currently operates 49 connections across Europe here.

The interior is modern and well-equipped to handle international travellers. Inside the arrival/departure halls you’ll find all the services you could need, from ATMs (bankomat), info desk, free wifi, three currency exchange points (kantor), vending machines, shops, one playground, a few restaurants and ten car rental companies.

Those looking to end up in Warsaw’s city centre have three main options for transport: grab a cab or private shuttle, take a bus to the capital, or board one of the green and yellow shuttles that will take you to Modlin Train Station where you then take a train to your destination. The Koleje Mazowieckie train route is economical (19zł total for shuttle and train), though slightly time consuming (50 minutes total); buy a ticket from one of their stands located in the baggage hall or at Arrivals near the exit doors. Of the many bus transfer services (a full range of which you’ll find on our website), Modlin Bus is the most comfortable and convenient; tickets range from 9zł (if booked ahead at modlinbus.com) to 35zł (at the airport - look for their stand in the baggage hall or near the Arrivals terminal exit).

If money isn’t an option, the airport’s official taxi partners Sawa Taxi and Taxi Modlin offer transport to the city centre from 159zł (199zł between 22:00 and 06:00).Qul. Gen. Wiktora Thommée 1A, Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki, tel. (+48) 22 315 18 80, www.modlinairport.pl.

Warsaw is located in the heart of the country and has extensive road links with other major Polish cities. Having said that the competition on the road’s front isn’t fierce.

Roads leading into Warsaw tend to be of decent dual carriageway standard, though once you enter the city limits Warsaw traffic can become a serious problem - particularly during the week. Most major hotels are located in the central area and you should be heading in most cases for the Central Train Station (Dworzec Warszawa Centralna) and its neighbour, the Palace of Culture (PKiN). Parking in the central area is generally available on-street where there are standard parking charges payable at roadside machines. Most major hotels will offer some form of offroad guarded parking. Be warned that Polish roads and Polish drivers are not the best especially if you have driven in western Europe.

Indeed, Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, drivers who have no consideration for anybody else result in the common sight of mangled car wrecks around the country. Police seem unwilling to control irresponsible driving, and don’t be surprised to see cars shooting through red lights, cutting each other up and staking a claim for the Formula 1 championship.

The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. Seat belts must be worn at all times and it is illegal for drivers to use hand-held mobile phones. Following the letter of the law all cars should be equipped with a first aid kit, warning triangle, fire extinguisher, rear mud flaps and right and left hand outside mirrors. Flouting the rules will cost you 200zł (for using a mobile), 100zł (not wearing a seat belt) and up to 1520zł for speeding! The legal limit for drink driving is 0.2‰ blood/alcohol level. Put simply, if you’re driving, don’t drink.

EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as they are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licenses invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone we know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry your license and passport at all times when driving.

Since April 2007 it has been compulsory for headlights to be switched on at all times.

GUARDED PARKING Guarded Parking actually means supervised CCTV, 103 spaces available all for the pretty price of 8zł p/hour, or 20zł p/day.QF‑6, ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria Hotel), MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

14 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Arrival & Transport CAR RENTAL All most travellers need to rent a car in PL is 18 years of age, a credit card (not debit), and a valid foreign driver’s licence.

Be aware, however, that those from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic (tsk, tsk, United States, China, Australia...) cannot legally drive on their home licences; technically an International Driver’s License is required in those cases. Though some rental companies (the dodgier ones) will still rent you a car, be aware that you are assuming full liability for any damages if you get behind the wheel; you also run the risk of getting a citation from the police for driving without a valid license.

If you’re looking to leave the country, be aware that you can’t cross the Polish borders into Ukraine, Belarus or Lithuania in a rental car.

AVIS BUDGET Also at Modlin Airport (ul. Gen. Wiktora Thommee 1A), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (E-9, Marriott Hotel) and ul. Łopuszańska 12A (Włochy).Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 48 72, www.avis.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:30, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00.

EUROPCAR Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 25 64, www.europcar.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:00.

HERTZ Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 28 96, www.hertz.com.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:30.

SCOOTER RENTAL Warsaw’s newest Scooter Rental offers a large selection of sporty and stylish rides for beginners and experts. Their expert staff will help you pick out the right ride. Best to book in advance and secure a pickup time as they might be out of the office in the off season (call the listed number if that’s the case).QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 22, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 99 77 60, www.skutery-centrum.pl. Open 07:30 - 19:30.

SIXT One of the world’s largest and oldest car rental companies offers a choice of solutions from short and long rental periods to holiday cars. There’s even a fleet of limousines if you’re interested. Vehicles range from Seats to luxury Mercedes. Bonuses include GPS and Sixt cards. Also at Modlin Airport, ul. Emilii Plater 49 (E-8, InterContinental Hotel) and Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (E-9, Marriot Hotel).Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 20 31, www. sixt.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:30, Sat 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00.

YOURRENT / FLEETSOLUTIONS Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 668 66 33 00.

Open 07:00 - 22:00.

RIDING THE POLISH RAILS The Polish rail network has steadily improved over the last decade with new stations in most of the country’s major cities, new rolling stock, and high-speed lines now available. The high-speed Pendolino route between Kraków and Gdańsk (via Warsaw), christened in 2014, has cut travel times between north and south from 12 to only 5.5 hours. Though the costs have increased, by western standards Polish rail travel is still very affordable, with a 1st class ticket from Warsaw to Kraków costing 80-240zł (about €35), depending on time of travel. You must buy tickets prior to boarding all services, either online at pkp.pl (you’ll receive a PDF ticket, which shows your name - you will be required to show ID to the conductor), or buy directly in the ticket office (kasa) in stations.

Travel times can vary widely depending on the type of train making the journey. Generally the longer a train takes, the older the rolling stock, the less amenities it will have and the less comfortable you’ll be. The shorter the journey, the nicer the train (and higher the price).

The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run so many different classifications of train that it makes the head spin, but here’s a quick run-down.

Express InterCity Premium (EIP): the fastest and most comfortable trains on offer (Pendolino), 1st and 2nd class include electrical sockets, limited wi-fi, adjustable seats and a restaurant carriage serving food and refreshments.

Express InterCity (EIC): comfortable 1st and 2nd class compartments, which include electrical sockets and limited wi-fi service. InterCity (IC) trains are modern, comfortable and relatively cheap and will get you to wherever you need to go. EuroCity/EuroNight (EC/EN) are the perfect choice for rail trips around Europe. EuroCity trains are quick connections to major European cities, and EuroNight are fast international night trains.

Twoje Linie Kolejowe (TLK), are much cheaper and older trains with mostly 2nd class compartments (comfier 1st class is available). You may find yourself on a TLK route if you’re travelling to a small town. Our advice is to show up early, as these routes are often overcrowded and you may be forced to sit or stand in the aisle.

For more information on train times and prices check the official website of Polish Railways - www.rozklad. pkp.pl, or try the very useful route planning site e-podroznik.pl. On the former you can book a ticket without the hassle of queuing at the station. If you find yourself faced with long queues in the train station then you’ll be pleased to hear you can hop on most trains (except EIP trains!) and buy a ticket direct from the conductor. You’ll pay a 10zł surcharge for this, but credit cards are now accepted. warsaw.inyourpocket.com 15

Arrival & Transport METRO-MORPHOSIS

BY BUS If you come to Warsaw by bus, odds are you’ll be landing at the main bus station on Al. Jerozolimskie, while budget options like FlixBus drop passengers off a short distance from Metro Młociny.

Tentative construction of a Warsaw metro system first began in 1938 and was spearheaded by the forward thinking mayor Stefan Starzyński. The first line finally opened for business a whopping sixty years later in 1995!

To be fair, engineers and designers had a lot to deal with in the interim, namely the ravages of the second world war and the perils and trials of communism. Plans for an underground system had originally been discussed as early as 1918, but the depression saw all preparations shelved. Starzyński was the first to raise the metro from the dead, and work on both the North-South and EastWest lines began in 1938.

Originally projected to open in the mid-1940s, the outbreak of WWII put an end to those ambitions.

Peace time and then communism brought a change in priorities. City planners were called to create a superdeep underground system, primarily to allow for Soviet swift troop movements below the city. By 1953 over 700 metres of tunnels had been carved underground but the death of Comrade Stalin saw all works abandoned. Finally, in 1995, a North-South line consisting of 11 stations and rolling stock donated by Russia was opened.

The second line finally opened in March 2015 to much fanfare. Although it is currently comprised of only 7 stations, it connects the radically different Eastern and Western sides of the city that the Vistula and history have divided. For commuters and every-day varsovians the second line changes their daily routine and offers much faster and more convenient connections. For tourists, it will act as a main artery as many of the city’s most interesting attractions and museums are adjacent to each sparkling new station. The city made a lot of bold decisions with respect to the overall architectural planning as well as the look, lighting design and colors of each new station. Polish Artist Wojciech Fangor was tapped to design the artwork, color scheme and characteristic fonts used in each station and the effects are truly stunning.

Today the first line of the metro now currently spans 21 stops across the North-South axis of the capital and it intersects the brand new second line at the pivotal (and somewhat poetic) Świętokrzyska (Sacred Cross) station.

There are already plans in place to expand the second line further East and West respectively and even talk of a third line in the future. For now, we suggest punching your ticket, clutching your camera and exploring the brilliant modernist underworld that is Warsaw’s second Metro line.

16 Warsaw In Your Pocket

FLIXBUS Services leave from the bus stances at either Metro Młociny, Metro Wilanowska, in front of the Palace of Culture & Science at Plac Defilad, and from Warsaw West Train/Bus Station, depending on where you’re travelling.

Qul. Kasprowicza 145 (Dworzec Autobusowy Metro Młociny, stance 1), www.flixbus.pl.

MAIN BUS STATION Coaches arrive and depart – unless otherwise stated – from the Warsaw West Bus Station (Dworzec Autobusowy Warszawa Zachodnia). Find a currency exchange and two ATM (bankomat) machines located in the main hall. There is no Tourist Info point, for the closest you’ll have to make the journey into the Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emillii Plater). There’s a legitimate left-luggage operation, a travel agency and a nursing mother’s lounge.

You’ll also be able to buy SIM cards (for which you’ll need to register your details with ID), prepaid cards and transport cards from here. Taxis to the centre run between 20-30zl (refuse a lift from any of the smiling unlicensed operators who offer you a lift). The bus running to the centre is found right across a busy highway and getting there is an adventure in itself seeing there are no signposts in the subway leading there. Basically from the main hall duck down under the sign saying Dworzec PKP, head down the stairs, turn right, follow the corridor to its conclusion, turn right again – you’ll see two stairwells leading to the surface. Take the left one and presto, there’s your bus stop. Confused? Not half as much as we were. Good work Warsaw. To get to Central Station take bus number 127,158 or 517. At night you’ll be needing N35 or N85. The journey takes approximately 15 minutes so buy a 3,40zł ticket valid for 20 minutes. Remember to validate your ticket on boarding.QAl. Jerozolimskie 144, tel. (+48) 703 40 34 03, www.dworzeconline.pl. Ticket office open 05:30 - 22:00.

U

PRIVATE TRANSPORT TALIXO This global transport service (operating in over 750 cities) connects you to the best local taxi and limousine fleets.

Their simple online reservation system allows you to get a ride that matches your needs, whether it’s a child seat or just a super fly ride. Specialising in airport transfers, their system can track your flight, ensuring that your Englishspeaking driver will be there (looking snappy with a personalised sign), whether you land ahead of or behind schedule.Qtel. (+48) 30 346 49 73 60, www.talixo.com/ iyp-warsaw.

Arrival & Transport PUBLIC TRANSPORT Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system crisscrossing the city as well as a good metro system with M1 line running north-south and M2 running east-west. Over 1,500 buses operate in and around the city, and run 05:0023:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops.

Tickets (all valid for use on metro, bus and tram) can be bought from machines with instructions in English dotted around the city, at all metro stations, and some bus and tram stops. Tickets can also be purchased from machines on buses and trams, where you can pay by card, or using exact change only. Alternatively, kiosks also sell tickets.

A standard public transport single ticket costs 4.40zł.

If you’re travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll be needing a ticket that covers both zones 1 and 2 – these are priced at 7zł. Note that the airport is in Zone 1. Still with us?

Good. There is also a 20 minute ticket at 3.40zł. Tickets valid for 24 hrs are priced at 15 or 26zł if travelling through both zones. A weekend ticket (available from 19:00 on Fri till 08:00 on Mon) costs 24zł (also a weekend group ticket is available for up to 5 people and costs 40zł). A 3-day ticket costs 36zł for zone 1 only and 57zł for zones 1 & 2. Those over 70 ride for free, as do children up until the end of September of the year they turn 7 (really. Probably makes sense with vodka. Have proof of age ID handy in both cases). Everyone else pays full fare unless in possession of an ISIC card. This entitles you to buy a reduced ticket (ulgowy).

Once you’ve got a ticket you will need to validate it in one of the box-style kasowniks in buses/trams. On the metro this must be done before you get on board. Plain clothes ticket inspectors stalk the lines, dishing out 270.40zł for those without valid tickets (we understand quick payment results in the fine being lessened). They often don’t look very official and you are within your rights to request identification.Qwww.ztm.waw.pl.

TAXIS It’s still always better to ring ahead rather than hailing a taxi in the street. Be vigilant when taking a cab to the centre from the arrivals hall of the airport; we’ve heard plenty of horror stories. The accepted fare from Warsaw Chopin Airport to the centre is 35-50zł; we suggest that you agree upon this price with your driver before setting off. All the companies we list will usually have someone on their switchboard who can speak English. MPT, the state-run firm, can boast the most reliable reputation. Tipping is not expected, but if your driver gets you from A to B without a detour through the countryside then by all means, feel free.

ELE TAXIQtel. (+48) 22 811 11 11, www.eletaxi.pl.

USEFUL TRANSPORT APPS JAKDOJADE Despite Warsaw’s metro, tram and bus network being incredibly easy to use, even for foreigners, we’ll still admit to being a bit put off from using it at first; that is until we discovered the veritable skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the Warszawa.jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app for your smartphone. The former is a wonderful and free tool for advance planning, but the paid app is more practical for figuring out how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town and away from your computer. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically) and destination, or pin the locations on a map; select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. Finished at the museum and want to head back to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop and even tell you which ticket to buy. That’s worth the few Euros it costs to download in our opinion. For those who prefer to feel smarter than their phones, you can also find timetables and network maps at ztm.waw.pl.

E-PODRÓŻNIK This site can also help you get from point A to point B within Warsaw, but is really invaluable when it comes to planning the journey to your next destination by bus or train. Use e-podroznik.pl to easily search bus and train connections and timetables, compare prices and even buy tickets in one of seven languages. There’s also a free mobile app (Android only).

MYTAXI The world’s first and most popular taxi app is very much available in PL. MyTaxi allows you to compare rates, arrival times, car models, and more, sending the cab of your choice to your location (and allowing you to track its progress) without you having to talk to any dispatchers. Download it for free from their website: mytaxi.com.

UBER Not only has Uber (uber.com) arrived in Poland, but the company recently opened their European hub in Kraków. If you’re already an Uber user, you’ll find that the alternative taxi service - whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash, no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage across Warsaw and all of Poland, however there are some drawbacks. Specifically, Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for slightly cheaper rates.

MPTQtel. (+48) 22 191 91, www.taximpt.pl. warsaw.inyourpocket.com 17

City Basics LANGUAGE SMARTS

MARKET VALUES

Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Though you can probably get by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will nonetheless smooth your time in Warsaw and may even win you friends and admirers.

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of January 22, 2019 based on €1 = 4.28zł

On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.

This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation

‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry

McDonald's Big Mac Snickers candy bar 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr beer (shop) 0.5ltr beer (bar) Loaf of white bread Pack of Marlboro cigarettes 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) Local transport ticket (1 journey)

10.80 zł 1.89 zł 24.00 zł 2.75 zł 10.00 zł 2.99 zł 16.00 zł 5.17 zł 4.40 zł

€ 2.52 € 0.44 € 5.61 € 0.64 € 2.34 € 0.70 € 3.74 € 1.21 € 1.03

FACTS & FIGURES TERRITORY Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely (moving clockwise) the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Lithuania (103km), Belarus (416km), Ukraine (529km), Slovakia (539km), Czech Republic (790km) and Germany (467km).

Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobry

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri)

LONGEST RIVER Warsaw is split by the river Vistula (Wisła). At 1,047km it is Poland’s longest river and flows into the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska).

Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam

(Doh-bri vyeh-choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

HIGHEST POINT The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499 metres) found in the Tatra mountains in the south of Poland.

My name is...

Mam na imię...

I’m from England.

Jestem z Anglii Do you speak English? Czy mówisz po angielsku?

I don’t speak Polish. Nie mówię po polsku.

I don’t understand.

Nie rozumiem.

Two beers, please.

Dwa piwa proszę.

Cheers!

Na zdrowie!

Where are the toilets? Gdzie są toalety?

You are beautiful.

Jesteś piękna.

I love you.

Kocham cię.

Please take me home. Proszę zabierz mnie do domu.

Call me!

Zadzwoń do mnie!

18 Warsaw In Your Pocket

(Mam nah ee-myeh…)

(Yehstem zanglee) (Che moo-veesh po an-gyelskoo?)

(Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)

(Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)

(Dvah peevah prosheh.)

(Nah zdrovyeh!)

(Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)

(Ko-hahm chuh.)

(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.)

(Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

POPULATION (2017) Poland - 38,858,000 Warsaw - 1,763,615 Kraków - 766,739 ​Łódź - 690,422 ​Wrocław - 637,683 ​Poznań - 541,561 ​Gdańsk - 464,829 ​Katowice - 296,262 LOCAL TIME Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 6:00 am in New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.

PLANETARIUM AT COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE Movies, shows, live concerts

Fly with us to the stars!

Organisers

What's On

Chopin Point Warsaw, p.21

EVENTS BY DATE UNTIL 24.02 » ROYAL GARDEN OF LIGHT 3D DISPLAYS

The facade of the wonderful Wilanow Palace is used as the backdrop for a light and music show, described as 3D mapping and which is all accompanied by the enchanting sounds of Baroque music. Shows last approximately 10 minutes and take place every Saturday and Sunday, (with the exception of Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day) at 18:30, 19:30 and 20:30.QP‑2, The Wilanów Palace Museum, ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, Tickets 10zł/5zł, children under 7 free, www.wilanow-palac.pl. Every Saturday & Sunday.

28.02, 28.03 19:00-22:00 » “LATES” 18+ IN

It’s not often that you hear the terms “special evenings,” “adults-only,” and “Samsung” in the same sentence, but we’ll go with it. Before your mind wanders just a tad too far, it turns out that Samsung and the Copernicus Science Centre are strategic partners, and that translates into a whole lot of after-hours fun for those of us who find ourselves on the broad “over 18” spectrum of life. Offering an innovative approach to science and the humanities with themed evenings, interactive entertainment activities, workshops, meetings with experts, and so much more (and yes, alcohol!), these nights are out to prove that education can 20 Warsaw In Your Pocket

What's On be fun and sexy, too.QI‑6, Copernicus Science Centre, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, Tickets 35zł, www. kopernik.org.pl.

UNTIL 03.03 » WINTER AT THE NATIONAL STADIUM

Don’t miss the opportunity to try some winter sports at the National Stadium (Zimowy Narodowy). Now in its 6th year, one of the biggest stadiums in Europe is transformed into a huge snowy village with almost 5,000 square meters of ice – 3 huge ice rinks, a winter slope, a chillout zone and a food court. Apart from the ice skating you can also test your curling skills as well as go on the skatepark.QK‑6, PGE National Stadium, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 22 295 90 00, More info about opening hours and prices on the website, www. zimowynarodowy.pl.

UNTIL 31.12 » CHOPIN POINT WARSAW

Everyday Chopin concerts in a unique place on the Chopin route (P.90) in the heart of Warsaw. Located in a historic building at ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 62, where the composer once played a concert at the age of 13. Extremely cozy atmosphere, inspired by the salons in which he gave recitals, promotes relaxation and expand knowledge about the composer. In addition to the music, performed by the outstanding pianists, guests are welcomed with a traditional Polish drink.QG‑5, Chopin Point Warsaw, ul.

Krakowskie Przedmieście 62, MPlac Bankowy, tel. (+48) 601 80 83 92, Tickets 60/40zł available online or (+48) 601 33 34 33, www.chopinpoint.com.pl.

UNTIL 31.12 » CONCERTS IN THE HOUSE OF MUSIC

A unique place in the heart of the Royal Route, with a fairly long and spacious main room to accommodate eager fans of Fryderyk Chopin. You can listen to daily Fryderyk Chopin concerts given by different talented pianists giving you the opportunity to hear various interpretations of Chopin’s pieces.QG‑7, House of Music, ul. Nowy Świat 63, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. +48 22 692 48 24, Tickets 50zł, www.nowyswiatmuzyki.com.

26.02 20:00 » BRODKA MTV UNPLUGGED

MTV Unplugged has been known to host some of the most iconic musical performances of recent decades. This phenomenon of disconnecting electric enhancements from the musicians’ instruments has allowed for the acoustic value of the music and the words of the songs to be the showcase of the performance. The events have moved on from just a television show to full-blown concerts around the world to the delight of many fans. Monika Brodka will be the artist in the spotlight with her recent worldwide success of the album “Clashes”. Her performance will include a 12 member band with musicians playing instruments as unique as a harmonium and a saw.QG‑14, Teatr Nowy, ul. Madalińskiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 379 33 33, Tickets 99-129zł available at www. eventim.pl/goodtaste, www.goodtaste.pl.

ASK THE CONCIERGE I warmly welcome our readers of Warsaw In Your Pocket. February and March are months when the cold weather does not encourage you to stay outside for too long.

I would, however, like to suggest some interesting proposals for those visiting our capital.

Until February 24, 2019, we have a chance to experience a real fairy tale. This is thanks to the project “Light and Sound” organised in Wilanów Gardens, where the magic of extraordinary images will take you to another world (Open daily from 4pm until 11pm).

Another suggestion for our guests is to visit the controversial “Body World & the cycle of life” exhibition

by Gunter von Hagens. It is available on the fourth floor of the PKIN. (Open daily from 9am until 8pm).

Fans of classical music are invited to the Grand Theatre of the Opera and Ballet, where the repertoire includes masterpieces such as Puccini’s Tosca, Verdi’s Nabucco, Mozart’s Magic Flute and Bizet’s Carmen Warsaw is a city associated with the life and work of one of the greatest composers and pianists – Frederyk Chopin. You are invited to daily concerts of the music of this genius. Time for Chopin in the Royal Castle and Chopin Point on the Krolewskie Route are particularly recommendable.

Jazz music fans will not be disappointed with the Jazz 12 on 14 club, which will be hosted by famous jazzmen, and listen to the legendary, singing with James Brown, Martha High and the soul cookers.

On February 25 Warszawski Torwar will be a place of an extraordinary event: the legendary group Dire Straits will play for its fans while on March 16, Torwar will play host to the MMA Fight Exclusive Night.

Of course we also invite you to visit the museums of the Warsaw Uprising, Polin, Zacheta, Chopin and the many others Warsaw has to offer.

A great experience is offered by the professional, multilingual guides from Warsaw City Tours. They will tell you all about the history and the modernity of our city with great pride and pleasure.

A perfect end to the full day will be a visit to the Panorama bar, on the 40th floor of the Marriott hotel, where with a delicious drink and good music, you can admire the spectacular views of Warsaw.

Your hotel’s concierge will be more than happy to advise and help you, our important guests. Do not hesitate to contact us. You are always welcome!

ELZBIETA MISZCZYK CONCIERGE CLERK MARRIOTT HOTELS (Member of Clefs d’Or) warsaw.inyourpocket.com 21

What's On „JESUS SINGS HEAVENLY” GAZETA WYBORCZA

THE TIMES, POLAND

Das Musical von

TIM RICE & ANDREW LLOYD WEBBER

14.03 - 21.03 » SPANISH FILM WEEK

One week, 9 Polish cities, and a whole lot of film. As the title suggests, Spanish Film Week provides a glimpse into the world of Spanish film—presenting some of the country’s most important and most popular recently released flicks. The best way to cultivate new potential tourists is through film, don’t you think? Even if you aren’t planning a springtime vacation, this might just be the ideal time to do a little cinematic-style getaway of sorts.QE‑5, Kino Muranów, ul. Gen. Andersa 5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 30 78, www.muranow.gutekfilm.pl.

16.03 19:00-01:00 » MMA FIGHT EXCLUSIVE NIGHT

FEN 24 will matchup Andrzej Grzebyek and Kamil Gniadek along with fights with Arab VS Wujek Samo Zło, and champions of Formula K1, Arkadiusz Wrzosek, Radosław Paczuski and Kamil Łebkowski. Also returning to the cage in Warsaw will be Kamila Porczyk. Don’t miss out on everyone’s favourite blood sport, MMA in Warsaw. QJ‑10, Torwar Hall, ul. Łazienkowska 6A, Tickets 80-1000zł available at eventim.pl, www.fen-mma.com.

19.03 19:00 » RY X

WARSAW

BERLIN

08.03 - 17.04 30.04 - 05.05 27.02 19:00 » NOSOWSKA NA TŁUSTO I BASTA

Kasia Nosowska is the leader of the rock band Hey. A big deal in these parts, they have won lots of Fryderyks, the Polish Brit or Grammy if you like, including Best Female Singer, Best Songwriter and Best Alternative Album. The forty-something singer has also been awarded the Golden Cross of Merit for her contributions to music and culture. The concert will include new material from her upcoming album this fall. QJ‑10, Torwar Hall, ul. Łazienkowska 6A, Tickets 79-149zł available at www.eventim.pl/goodtaste, www.goodtaste.pl.

08.03 - 17.04 » JESUS CHRIST SUPERSTAR

If you make a rock opera with Jesus as your main character, who do the royalties go to? It doesn’t matter, just sit down and enjoy the show—this 1970s Broadway hit arguably made religion cool again, by inserting it right smack dab into pop culture, fit for mass consumption.

While we all might know how the story ends, this story of Jesus’ last week on earth (loosely based on the Gospels’ accounts), takes us on an emotional roller coaster in a musical experience that’s not to be missed. In addition to making a stop in Warsaw, the show will also make a stop in Berlin from 30.04 - 05.05.QTeatr Rampa, ul. Kołowa 20 (Targówek), tel. (+48) 22 679 89 76, Tickets 60-90zł available at www.teatr-rampa.pl. Closed Mon. 22 Warsaw In Your Pocket

The Australian vocalist gained enormous popularity with original songs that were full of emotion and captivating listeners with its ability to create vivid moods. With his debut album, RY X sold out concerts around the world and no stranger to Poland with an appearance at the famed Tauron Nowa Muzyka festival in Katowice. Now with his new and highly anticipated album scheduled for release in 2019, the tour will surely attract crowds in Warsaw. QF‑7, Palladium, ul. Złota 9, tel. (+48) 22 822 87 02, Tickets 105/120zł available at biletomat.pl.

EXHIBITIONS UNTIL 24.12 » AIR

Air surrounds us everywhere. We can’t see it, but we know it’s there. The Copernicus Science Center’s exhibit “Air” will show you how many aspects of our lives are governed by it.

The exhibition at the modern science museum will include workshops on aerodynamics, respiratory systems, and provide you with the opportunity to make your own forest in a jar.

In addition to the special workshops, there will be over 45 interactive exhibits to learn everything there is to know about the invisible element. QI‑6, Copernicus Science Centre, ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, Entry included with admission to Copernicus Science Centre 33/22zł., www.kopernik.org.pl.

UNTIL 10.06 » ŁADNIE. THE EXHIBITION FOR CHILDREN

Poland is a land of that features many different diverse landscapes. In the south, you can venture the heights of the Tatra Mountains, while in the north you have the sandy beaches on the Baltic Sea. If you were to drive from one end to the other you can’t miss the lakes and marshlands of Mazuria and the primaeval Białowieża Forest. The exhibition

What's On ‘ŁADnie’ will educate children about the importance of biodiversity and how we can maintain it for the future. QF‑6, Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, Admission 12/6 zł, www.ethnomuseum.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 24.03 » THE FREE BIRD. DER FRAYER FOYGL.

A view of the interwar period of independent Poland from the perspective of Jewish illustrators and satirists will be on display for the exhibition ‘The free bird. Der Frayer Foygl’.

Artworks included in the exhibition have been drawn by artists with both exceptional talent and a sense of humour.

The artists include Jakub Bickels, Szaja Fajgenbojm, Samuel Finkelstein, Chaim Goldberg, Fryderyk Kleinman, Leon Dawid Izrael, Mendel Reif, Bronisław Schneider, P. Sternschuss, Artur Szyk, Janusz Trefler, Jehuda Wermus, Ignacy Witz, and a large number of anonymous illustrators.QE‑5, Jewish Historical Institute, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, Admission 12/7 zł., www.jhi.pl. Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 09:00-18:00, Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed Sat.

UNTIL 31.03 » SIGNS OF FREEDOM

This exhibition is part of the long-term “Independent” programme which includes 30 exhibition rooms with nearly 500 works of art obtained from numerous institutions and private collections. The exhibition also includes several hundred documentary photographs, films, soundtracks, historical comments, and historical documents. A monumental historical fresco depicting the chronological framework of the struggle to establish Polish independence. QG‑4, Gallery of Paintings, Sculpture and the Decorative Arts, Pl. Zamkowy 4 (Royal Castle), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, Admission 20/10 zł., www.zamek-krolewski.pl.

Chopin

returns to Warsaw

Chopin Coffee Shop from 10 a.m.

(10.00)

Chopin Concert everyday at 7 p.m.

(19.00)

UNTIL 17.03 » SHOUTING: POLAND! INDEPENDENCE 1918

Designed to commemorate the centenary of Poland regaining independence in 1918, this exhibition will present works by Jacek Malczewski, Zofia Stryjeńska, Tadeusz Makowski, Witold Wojtkiewicz, and many other artists living both on Polish territory and elsewhere. On display, the main actors in the war and struggle for Poland’s independence have been immortalized in paintings and portraits by Wojciech Kossak, Stanisław Fabijański, Władysław Wankie, Leopold Gottlieb and Henryk Weyssenhoff. A separate part of the exhibition will be devoted to the Polish-Soviet war and its image in art and propaganda. The story of Polish Legions, the figure of Józef Piłsudski as well as battle scene motifs will be strongly highlighted here. The exhibition will culminate with the foundation of the Sejm. Several hundred paintings, sculptures and prints will be accompanied by numerous ephemera and photographs.QH‑8, National Museum, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 629 30 93, Admission 20/12zł for the permanent gallery. Family tickets available. Tue free., www.mnw.art. pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

+48 601 333 433 visit our website: www.chopinpoint.com

Address:

in historical building, Krakowskie Przedmieście 62

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FIND US ON GOOGLE MAPS

warsaw.inyourpocket.com 23

What's On

The best Warsaw

has to offer in one great app

UNTIL 28.04 » HIWA K: HIGHLY UNLIKELY BUT NOT IMPOSSIBLE

In the Kurdish language, the word “hiwa” means hope. The exhibition will showcase works from Hiwa K, an Iraqi-Kurd who found political asylum in Europe almost 20 years ago and today is considered one of the leading contemporary artists in the world. His unique artistic tactics are based on creating forms using the practices of everyday life and childhood memories while combining them with autobiographical elements with things he overhears from fictional stories. The exhibition, constructed in relation to the architecture of Zachęta, gives the viewer an insight into the artist’s practices and enables them to experience its spatial aspects. QF‑6, Zachęta - National Gallery of Art, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, Admission 15/10zł, Thu free., www.zacheta.art.pl/en. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 31.03 » FLY AWAY

Humans have held a long-standing fascination with our feathered friends. Countless songs have been written about their special ability of flight and they held a special role of sending a message before the internet and telephones. “Fly Away” refers to seasonal migration during the autumn months. It is an increased time of movement as well as the observation from bird watchers around the world. The exhibition will show how the birds were depicted in art and how they convey the values we hold and envision in them. QF‑6, Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, Admission 12/7 zł., www.ethnomuseum.pl.

UNTIL 28.02 » GUNTHER VON HAGEN’S BODY WORLDS: THE ORIGINAL EXHIBITION OF REAL HUMAN BODIES

City Essentials Only our favourite places Works offline, incl. maps Free download Incl. dozens of other cities www.iyp.me/app

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

24 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Viewed by 43 million people across the world, Body Worlds shows the potential of the human body through an aesthetic presentation of its inner workings.

Fascinating, informative, and a tad bit macabre, the human body is shown in all its gory detail via multimedia installations. Thanks to the innovative plastination process invented by controversial German anatomist and educator Gunther von Hagens, visitors can view the inside of the human body and see how sensitive our organism is. The exhibit allows for the discovery of human anatomy, physiology and health, and shows audiences the effects various lifestyles and habits (like smoking) have on their own bodies. If you’re not too faint of heart, and up for a spellbinding journey into the beauty and complexity of human anatomy, the Body Worlds exhibition is certainly like nothing else you’ve ever seen, and you won’t soon forget it.QE‑8, Palace of Culture & Science, Pl. Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, Tickets 35-55zł, family tickets 135zł.

Open: Mon-Friday 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00., www.bodyworlds.pl.

What's On UNTIL 01.07 » IN KING MATT’S POLAND

The book ‘King Matt the First’ by Janusz Korczak is a story about a 10-year-old king who is faced with leading a nation. This event will recreate the experience for children with games, activities, and special props to educate both children and adults on the trials and tribulations of being the head of state. QD‑4, POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, Admission 12/8 zł., www.polin.pl/en/in-king-mattspoland. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Sat, Sun 10:00 20:00. Closed Tue.

UNTIL 14.04 » DESIGN IN EVERYDAY CRAFTS

This summary of a 3-year program educational program created by the Praga District Museum and the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw showcases the result of giving everyday items a unique character. The exhibition rediscovers the art involved in objects created by craftsmen. The exhibit will combine contemporary design with traditional crafts bringing a fresh look to timeless creations. QJ‑3, Praga District Museum, ul. Targowa 50/52, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 518 34 30, Admission for both permanent and temporary exhibitions 15/10zł, permanent alone 10/7zł, temporary exhibitions 5/3zł. Thu free., www. muzeumpragi.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 20:00. Closed Mon.

05.02 - 10.03 » THE KING IS GETTING MARRIED! THE STOCKHOLM SCROLL

The Stockholm Scroll is a unique work of art measuring more than 15 m long. It depicts the ceremonial entry of the wedding procession of King Sigismund III and Archduchess Constance of Austria into Kraków on 4th December 1605. The Scroll most likely found its way to Stockholm as war booty acquired during the Swedish Deluge. In 1974 it was donated to the Royal Castle in Warsaw by the Swedish government on the initiative of the then Prime Minister, Olof Palme. This a special opportunity to see this work of art and history.QG‑4, Royal Castle, Pl. Zamkowy 4, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, Admission 20/10zł., www.zamekkrolewski.pl.

01.03 - 30.04 » LIGHT

20th Open International Competition on the Satirical Drawing gathers the best works from over 400 works from 80 artists in 40 countries. The competition concludes with the exhibition “Light”, which focusses on the effects of how light contrasts darkness. It also highlights both natural and artificial sources ranging from the sun to the smartphone. QF‑5, Museum of Caricature, ul. Kozia 11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 88 95, Admission for both permanent and temporary exhibitions 15/10zł, permanent alone 10/7zł, temporary exhibitions 5/3zł.

Thu free., www.muzeumkarykatury.pl. Open 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon. warsaw.inyourpocket.com 25

Sightseeing

If pesky climate change doesn’t ruin things, this is how nice Łazienki Park (p.44) can look in winter.

Warsaw Sightseeing In the not-too-distant past, Warsaw was a sea of ruins. From the ashes it arose once more, and being compared to a Phoenix is highly appropriate. Today, Warsaw is a vibrant city, inevitably conscious of its tragic past, but buzzing with confidence, looking to the future.

There’s plenty to discover here, so read on to find out more...

26 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Essential Sightseeing Warsaw There is far more to Warsaw than its Old Town however, and one museum that demands to be visited is the Warsaw Uprising Museum (p.59). It’s here that you’ll learn about the city’s doomed rebellion against the Nazis in 1944.

Packed with interactive displays, photographs, video footage and miscellaneous exhibits this is guaranteed to leave a deep mark on all visitors, and will go a long way in explaining why today’s Warsaw is far from the architectural pearl it once was.

Plac Zamkowy in the Old Town.

© Jacek Kadaj, istockphoto

Sightseeing and Warsaw don’t usually go together, and the reason for that, if not the blame, falls on her citizens.

While some cities may have been happy to wait out Nazi occupation, the Warsaw locals were having none of that. The ensuing uprising which took place in 1944 would become both the most glorious and tragic episode in the city’s history.

Doomed from the outset the Warsaw Uprising enraged Hitler, and his retribution proved swift and brutal. Warsaw was to be wiped from the face of the map, and his cronies set about their orders with a zealous fury. While Red Army tanks stood stoically stationed across the river the Nazis set about blasting western Warsaw into oblivion. Anything deemed of cultural importance was dynamited, and whole districts were set on fire. By the time ‘liberation’ arrived, over 85% of the city lay in total ruin. “I have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere have I been faced with such destruction,” commented a visibly moved Dwight Eisenhower on a later visit to the city. That the city still stands at all is tribute enough to the indefatigable spirit of the Polish capital.

Although the Nazis flattened the Jewish Ghetto after a heroic uprising in 1943 there are still traces of Warsaw’s Jewish past (p.54), including a remaining piece of the Ghetto wall (ul. Sienna 55, D-8), a memorial where the loading ramp to Treblinka once stood (Umschlagplatz, p.57), as well as one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in Europe (p.55). The crowning jewel for those with an interest in the city’s Jewish past, however, is POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews (p.55 - the biggest financial investment ever made in a cultural venue in Poland’s history. The results are amazing, and like the Uprising Museum, it’s simply a museum you shouldn’t leave town without visiting.

Despite some amazing new projects in recent years, the city’s defining landmark will always remain the fearsome Palace of Culture and Science (p.63). Looking like something you’d see in Ghostbusters the building towers at just over 231 metres in height, and was until recently the tallest and largest structure in Poland. Commissioned

by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’ the building was completed in 1955 and built using an estimated 40 million bricks. The crowning glory of the structure is the viewing platform on the 30th floor, a must see.

Nowhere bore the brunt of the Nazi malice more than the Old Town (p.34), and it’s here that most tourists will choose to start their tour of Warsaw. Using paintings and photographs as an architectural blueprint, the Old Town was painstakingly rebuilt, with the reconstruction of the historic centre only completed as late as 1962. The area’s inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List speaks volumes for the effort involved, and nothing is more striking than the colourful, wonky-looking burgher houses that frame the Old Town Square (Rynek Starego Miasta, F-4).

Across the river the Praga suburb (p.50) is undergoing a long overdue revival, and its growing reputation as an artistic haven is evident in the cafes that have sprung up along the pre-war Ząbkowska street. But while the Praga area is breathing once more, it still looks shabby. For a glimpse of Warsaw’s Imperial beauty head instead to her palaces, in particular Łazienki Park and Palace (p.44) and Wilanów Palace - dubbed ‘The Polish Versailles’ (p.47).

Enjoy exploring Warsaw.

The historic centre is also home to numerous churches, including the striking St. John’s Cathedral whose details number gothic artworks as well as the tombs of knights, regents and eminent citizens. Marking the edge of old town is the Royal Castle (p.36), reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. The prescribed tour will take you through the Kings’ apartments and chambers, heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments. Although you’ll find plenty of photographic opportunities in and amongst the tight cobbled alleyways save a few shots for the viewing platform at the top of St. Anne’s Church, and don’t leave the area without first exploring the lesser known delights of the New Town.

Even a winter stroll on the Vistulan Boulevards (p.119) can be rewarding!

warsaw.inyourpocket.com 27

Sightseeing The best walking tours in English & Spanish since 2012

Old Town | Jewish Warsaw Warsaw at War | Communist Warsaw Alternative Warsaw | Street Art www.walkative.eu FB/Free.Tour.Warsaw

WARSAW - DID YOU KNOW? Cult British band Joy Division were originally called Warsaw before they hit the big time. They only changed their name after concerns that concert posters might be misinterpreted as adverts selling Poland’s capital to British holidaymakers. Quite who would visit Cold War Poland for a laugh is a question worth considering, but don’t let that stand in the way of a good anecdote.

Warming to the musical theme, fans of David Bowie will no doubt be familiar with his instrumental masterpiece, Warszawa. Released in 1977 the song’s inspiration was a morning walk around the bleak wasteland that masquerades as Warsaw Zachodnia. On a more cheery note visitors will be delighted to learn Warsaw has its very own street named after Winnie the Pooh (ulica Kubusia Puchatka), complete with a stone tablet depicting the honey thief hand-in-hand with Piglet.

You’ll find a million other snippets of info to dazzle hot dates and dinner guests with. How about starting with Leo Gerstenzang? He’s the guy who invented cotton swabs, and he did so here in Warsaw. Or that you’ll find over 20 towns in the US named after the Polish capital, and even one in Jamaica. Finally, if you’ve read our section on the old town you’ll already know where to find two of the narrowest houses in the world. But how about the smallest house in Poland? That’s on ul. Długa 1, and currently serving as a pokey newsagent.

28 Warsaw In Your Pocket

GUIDED TOURS AB EVEREST TRAVEL As well as dealing with airport transfers, AB Everest also offer one day tours from Warsaw to popular destinations across Poland, which include: Auschwitz and Kraków, Wieliczka Salt Mine, Hitler’s former Wolf’s Lair, Białowieża National Park, Toruń and Warsaw Outskirts Tour, to name a few.Qul. Obrońców Tobruku 18, tel. (+48) 722 26 17 31, www.abeverest.pl.

FREE WALKATIVE! TOUR We’re all suckers for bargains, right? Despite being free, the very experienced people at Free Walkative! Tour provide some of the best guided trips of Warsaw we’ve experienced, and yes, at no cost to you...well, they do work for tips, which you’re not obliged to give, however, trust us, once you’ve been shown an in-depth look at the city by a local, it feels wrong not to say ‘Thank You’! Tours are offered in English and Spanish (private tours also available in other languages through prior arrangement), meeting at various times and locations around the city (depending on your chosen tour and language). Just turn up and join the tour, easily spotted with yellow umbrella carrying guides! The Old Town tour meets at King Sigismund’s Column (G-3), the Jewish Warsaw tour in front of the All Saints’ Church in Plac Grzybowski (p.55). The Communist Warsaw Tour meets next to the Charles de Gaulle statue (H-8), and the Alternative Warsaw tour in front of the Praga district’s Sts. Michael and Florian Cathedral (I-3). You’re spoiled for choice and to tag along for more than one tour is highly recommended! It is a must to check their website for the latest schedule.Qtel. (+48) 513 87 58 14, www.freewalkingtour.com/warsaw.

WARSAW CITY-TOUR Bus tours of Warsaw on a yellow double-decker bus. The entire route takes about 1.5-2 hours and covers all the major sites in the city including the Old Town, Jewish Warsaw, WWII, Palace of Culture and Łazienki Park. In Dec/ Jan bus departure times only at 09:50 and 11:50.QF‑6, Pl. Małachowskiego 3 (Zachęta Gallery), tel. (+48) 500 03 34 14, www.city-tour.com.pl. Single journey ticket 50/44zł. One day ticket 70/64 zł. Two day ticket 90/82zł.

Family tickets available. One and two day tickets offer hop on/hop off option.

WPT 1313 Now here’s a novel idea; buy up a fleet of legendary communist era Polski Fiat 125P cars, restore them, paint them New York cab yellow and provide tours around the city with your very own quirky and highly informative driver/guide. A great way to take a trip into the past, learn something and travel around in one of the most iconic vehicles of the 1960’s-70’s. Tours include, among others: “On the Trail of Polish Communism”, “Jewish Warsaw” and the “Warsaw Must See Tour”. For detailed info on all their services and to make a booking visit the company website. www.wpt1313.comQF‑8, Plac Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 882 13 13, www.wpt1313.com.

Sightseeing MUSEUMS Warsaw has an impressive selection of museums, and even older establishments are getting facelifts to bring the visitor experience into the 21st century. Without doubt the big four places on your list should be the Warsaw Uprising Museum (p.59), which charts the defining period in the history of modern Warsaw; the Copernicus Science Centre (p.33), which is the city’s most interactive and kid-friendly museum; the Chopin Museum (p.43), which is both interesting and another one of Warsaw’s best examples of a modern museum experience; and the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews (p.55), which highlights 1,000 years of Jewish history in Warsaw.

Most of the museums listed below present a cycle of temporary exhibitions, details of which can be found in our Culture & Events section on page 20.

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM When on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście across from Warsaw University, head straight down ul. Traugutta and you’ll find this museum at the end of the street. Tragically overlooked by far too many visitors to Warsaw (who can’t see past World War II and communism) this is a joy of a museum that showcases and highlights all that’s best about Poland’s cultural heritage. There are costumes, handicrafts, furniture, Polish inventions, art, photographs; most of it is beautifully presented in what is a superb building. The museum is one of the city’s most active, putting on all sorts of temporary exhibitions plus they organise hands-on events and workshops. There is also a new permanent exhibition: ‘Korean Gallery’ showing Korean culture, the showcase of which is a replica of a traditional house (Hanok). Directors of Warsaw’s other museums might want to come and take notes. Just brilliant, and unquestionably essential. The current permanent exhibits “Time to Celebrate Polish and European Folk Culture”, “The Order of Things” “The Pauper’s Bible: Art of the Poor and Downtrodden” plus the latest temporary exhibition “Departures” can all be explored.QF‑6, ul. Kredytowa 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.ethnomuseum.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

Closed Mon. Due to museum renovation, the ticket price for the temporary exhibition and permanent collection admission is 12/6zł, students up to 26 years of age 1zł, Thu free. U KATYŃ MUSEUM The Museum has recently been relocated to the impressive Citadel and the permanent collection can now be viewed in appropriately grand and stoic surroundings. The museum documents the shocking events of 1940 when around 20,000 Polish officers were executed by their Soviet captors in the middle of a Russian forest. The museum has a host of objects, documents and personal effects that have been recovered from the site near Smoleńsk, Russia. The artefacts from the victims and a scrolling list of the victim’s names needs no explanation and the multimedia presentation of the extenuating circumstances, the victim’s stories and historical

The former Saski Palace (p.32), as recreated in the Miniature Park

relevancy are well thought out and it’s worth exploring the whole museum. Despite this, there are, however, audio guides available for 10zł.QE‑1, ul. Jana Jeziorańskiego 4 (entrance from Nowomiejska gate), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 261 87 83 42, www.muzeumkatynskie.pl. Open 10:00 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free.

Guided tours (available in English, Polish, Russian) 60zł150zł depending on language and size of group; arrange in advance. U MINIATURE PARK Fans of architecture and miniature models rejoice!This amazing initiative and museum is recreating 1:25 scale models of some of the pearls of pre-war Warsaw architecture, and remarkably, after moving from its old location on ul. Senatorska, the museum is now located in an Old Town courtyard. The project gives viewers a unique look into the past, for as much as Warsaw rebuilt a lot of its pre-war splendour, so much more was lost during the Second World War and never rebuilt. With that in mind, here you get to see recreations of some stunning buildings which were completely destroyed, such as the once iconic Saxon Palace. The historical museum has a clear cut and ambitious educational mission that is ever expanding and aided by considerable multimedia installations. A must see for kids, architecture, and history buffs of any age. Highly recommended! Please note: closed February, open from March.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 66, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 509 83 33 32, www. miniaturymazowieckie.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 14/12zł. Children under 5 free. Family tickets available.

Katyn stairs

warsaw.inyourpocket.com 29

Sightseeing MUSEUM OF POLISH PEOPLE’S MOVEMENT Set in a neo-Renaissance villa designed by Italian-born Mary Lanci the Museum of the Polish People’s Movement is an absolute must for museum diehards (the museum has added some English brochures to help non-Polish visitors). Everything here is focused on Polish people/ peasants, with the oldest exhibit being a 17th century manuscript approved by King Jan III Sobieski granting serfs a tax reduction. Most of these scrolls, documents and papers will be lost on the foreign visitor; making more sense are the printed materials, which include election posters from the interwar years, as well as decrees, ration cards and purchase vouchers supplied by the occupying Nazis during WWII. Times under communism are particularly well represented, and visitors will see a number of stirring Soviet chic posters encouraging hard work and high production.

Art fans will be pleased to find a series of paintings depicting peasants in full battle, including of course Tadeusz Kościuszko doing his bit against the Russkies.

A temporary exhibition titled ‘Biographical exhibition.

Wincenty Witos (1874-1945)’ is currently available.QAl. Wilanowska 204 (Mokotów), MWilanowska, tel. (+48) 22 843 38 76, www.mhprl.pl. Open 08:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 4/2zł. Family tickets available. Thu free. N MUSEUM OF MODERN ART ON THE VISTULA The Museum on the Vistula is a new exhibition space, an addition to the Museum of Modern Art (Muzeum Sztuki Nowoczesnej - headquartered in the city centre on ul. Pańska 3) right on the river’s edge, which will house the majority of the museum’s exhibitions until the new headquarters is built. Opened to the public in March 2017, the building was designed by Austrian architect Adolf Krischanitz, and between 2008-10, was used by the Berlin based Kunsthalle Art Gallery. Now, the building has been provided free of charge to MoMA by the Viennese ThyssenBornermisza Art Contemporary foundation. Very kind of them. Check out MoMA’s site for current/future exhibitions.

To get there, take the metro to Centrum Nauki Kopernik or take buses 127, 318 & 385 to ‘Biblioteka Uniwersytecka’ and cross the street to the Vistulan Boulevards.QH‑5, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, MCentrum Nauki

MOMA, as arty on the outside as the inside.

30 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Photo: Mat Fahrenholz

Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 431 07 55, www.artmuseum.pl.

Open 12:00 - 20:00. Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 1zł, children under 7 and students enter free. Ticket prices subject to change. Y NATIONAL MUSEUM Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre inter-war building, this museum is a must for anyone visiting the city.

Dating from 1862 and operating under its current name since 1916, there’s a huge array of permanent exhibitions and antiquities. Visitors will find a wealth of delightful 15thcentury Dutch and Flemish paintings as well as several Botticellis in the newly curated Gallery of Old Masters which also includes several galleries of Polish art from the 16th century onwards, including some of the best work by the country’s leading painters - Chełmoński and Matejko to name a few. There is also a large gallery of medieval art and a gallery dedicated to works from the 20th and 21st centuries, including exceptional works of Polish painters Witkacy, Władysław Strzemiński and Wilhelm Sasnal. The “Professor Kazimierz Michałowski Faras Gallery” is the newest permanent gallery to open and is the only exhibition in Europe featuring Medieval Nubian paintings from the Nile River Valley south of the First Cataract. The latest exhibition to open is the Gallery of Polish Design. All in all, it’s worth seeing. Make sure to check their website for more info.QH‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 629 30 93, www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 20/12zł for the permanent gallery. Family tickets available. Tue free. U­Y POLISH ARMY MUSEUM The chronological history of the Polish army is presented in a series of gloomy rooms. Suits of armour, crossbows, muskets, medals and paintings pack this museum, though the scarcity of English-language explanations mean you’ll need to hire an English-speaking guide to get the most out of the place (make sure to call in advance). The room at the end is dedicated to Poland’s role in WWII, with specific emphasis on the Warsaw Uprising. Curiously, the best part of the museum is actually free of charge: the outdoor collection of 20th century weaponry includes an array of tanks, missiles, aircraft and rocket launchers (open all year round).QH‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 52 71, www.muzeumwp.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 15/8zł, Thu free. Polish and English audioguide 5zł. N VODKA MUSEUM Whisky is to Scotland as wine is to France, and going by the same logic, vodka is to Poland. The Vodka Museum is an independent undertaking, its origins formed in the pure passion for Poland’s national drink by the owners of the fantastic Elixir restaurant; it aims to show you the fascinating history of Polish vodka, and teach you how it should be respectfully, slowly sipped, tasted, and more importantly enjoyed (think how you would treat a dram of whisky and you get the idea). Don’t worry, you’ll get to have a tasting at

Sightseeing

warsaw.inyourpocket.com 31

Sightseeing SASKI PALACE

One piece of lost Warsaw set to rise again is the Saski Palace, formerly located in the grounds of Saski Park (F-6). Originally the residence of the Morsztyn family the building was purchased by King Augustus II and substantially enlarged and used by both him and his successor, Augustus III. Off-topic, but nevertheless worth airing, amateur historians will delight in learning that Augustus II sired 12 children by different women, while his successor managed to match the number, only this time staying loyal to his wife in the process.

Back on track, when Augustus III passed away (shagged out most likely) the building fell into disuse before being rented out for accommodation. Between 18061816 the Prussians established Warsaw Lyceum on the premises, and conflicting evidence suggests that Chopin either lived there for a time, or that his father taught French in one of the outbuildings. Extensively remodelled in 1842 the Palace finally assumed its best known shape in 1925 when the Tomb of the Unknown soldier was added to the series of colonnades used to link the two wings together. Serving as the seat of the Polish General Staff after WWI it was here that the German Enigma Code was first cracked by local science boffins. WWII signalled the end of the Palace and it was flattened by retreating Nazi troops, with only the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier surviving the blasts.

But the story continues. The city of Warsaw decided in 2006 to cover the cost of rebuilding. Budimex Dromex was awarded the tender to undertake the work, thanks to blueprints made available by the Central Military Archive, it was planned to look just like it did in 1939.

Completion was set for 2010, though building did not entirely go to plan. Builders came across 10,000+ rare archaeological finds including baroque sculptures, secret tunnels, ancient wells, German helmets and wine glasses bearing Augustus III’s monogram. The one problem being that no provision was made for discoveries of this scale, meaning many of the treasures recovered corroded after being incorrectly stored. Due to the 2008 financial crisis, the rebuilding plans were put on hold, until the 100th anniversary of Poland’s Independence on 11 November 2018, President Andrzej Duda announced the palace will be rebuilt, to become a symbol of Poland’s Independence. When we will see the final result is still to be decided.QF‑6, ul.

Mokotowska 55 lok. 50, www.saski2018.pl.

the end. The museum contains hundreds of original pieces connected to vodka, showcasing such unique items as a Napoleonic soldier’s canteen, once filled with vodka for the Russian campaign, to vodka sent to the U.S. during the prohibition of alcohol in the 1920-30s (a brotherly gesture, for alcohol starved brothers across the pond!). A visit to this museum is an eye-opening and enjoyable experience, which instils in any visitor a new appreciation for the spirit.

Tickets cost 19zł to see the permanent exhibition, 39zł for included vodka tasting and 75zł to do the same but with premium vodka. Highly recommended.QF‑5, ul.

Wierzbowa 9/11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 657 11 21, www.muzeumwodki.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Fri, Sat 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 19zł.

ZACHĘTA - NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART Unmissable, and so close to ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście.

One of the leading galleries in Poland, with a focus on the contemporary. The Zachęta National Gallery of Art (Narodowa Galeria Sztuki) is located in the centre of Warsaw, just across from the Saxon Garden. The name of the gallery derives from the Polish word for encouragement and refers to the group that created it: Society for the Encouragement of Fine Arts (Towarzystwo Zachęty Sztuk Pięknych), created in 1860. The gallery does a fine job in bringing the best in contemporary art from the 20th and 21st century to you in a mix of temporary exhibitions.QF‑6, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, Thu free. Y

PLACES OF INTEREST FORMER GESTAPO HQ Every bit as disturbing as Pawiak is the former Gestapo HQ, found on Al. Szucha 25. Built between 1927-30, the building’s original purpose was as a centre for religious beliefs. In 1939 it came under Nazi control, and for the next five years became one of the most feared addresses in Poland operating, among other capacities, as a brutal interrogation centre. The imposing building, currently housing the Ministry of Education, was left untouched by the carnage of war and now also holds a small but sobering

Zachęta - National Gallery of Art

32 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Sightseeing museum within its bowels. Cells, where prisoners were held prior to interrogation, have been left largely as they were.

The bullet marks scarring the walls tell their own harrowing story. Prisoners were subjected to savage beatings, attacked with dogs and electrocuted. Those who didn’t co-operate would, in some cases, be forced to watch their families being tortured.QH‑11, Al. Szucha 25, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 629 49 19, www.muzeum-niepodleglosci.pl.

Open 10:00 - 17:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 10/5zł, Thu free.

FOTOPLASTIKON Hidden away in a darkened pre-war tenement a visit here really is a trip back in time. So what the devil is a fotoplastikon? Invented in Germany in the second half of the 19th century they’re basically a 3D peep show (no, not the saucy kind) set inside a great big drum-like contraption.

Presenting vivid images from across the world these groovy machines became an absolute sensation and at any onetime there were an estimated 250 in Europe. Warsaw apparently got its first in 1901, and the one on show here is thought to be from 1905. Although fotoplastikons were made obsolete by improved camera and film technology this one continued to open for the public, and during the war apparently served as a contact point for the Polish underground. Its role as a meeting point for academics and intellectuals continued well into communism, and today this family run operation allows visitors to glimpse Warsaw and other global landmarks in their pre-war glory, along with frequently changing exhibitions. Each full rotation of images lasts around 20 minutes and comes highly recommended.QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 51, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 60 78, www.fotoplastikonwarszawski. pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon, Tue closed for visiting due to museum lessons. Admission 6/4zł. Thu free.

PAWIAK PRISON Built in the 1830s to serve as a Tsarist prison, Pawiak came to the fore during WWII when it slipped into the hands of the Gestapo. During the Nazi occupation it became the largest political prison in Poland and saw over 100,000 inmates pass through its gates. Of this number over 37,000 were executed within the grounds, while a further 60,000 were transported to extermination camps.

Subterranean cells designed to house three people were often crammed with up to 18 prisoners. Dynamited during the German retreat, Pawiak has been restored as a memorial to all those who suffered inside, and now houses haunting photo displays, prisoner belongings and reconstructed cells all explained in Polish, English and German. A mangled tree, preserved after the war, stands outside the gates bedecked with obituary notices dating from 1944. Guided tours available in English for 60zł, max group size 25-30. Call in advance to arrange.

QC‑4, ul. Dzielna 24/26, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 92 89, www.muzeum-niepodleglosci.pl/ pawiak. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

Closed Mon, Tue, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5zł, Thu free.

COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE

© Copernicus Science Centre

A rare example of European Union funding being used in a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is the very best science centre in Europe, and one of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions. Arriving at the main doors of the stunning building, visitors are met by the centre’s very own Robothespian - an interactive humanoid robot that can be prompted to make a number of sounds and movements.

Not only will you learn an awful lot, but you’ll have a blast exploring the museum’s numerous thematic areas spread over two floors, among them: Bzzz! (aimed at kids between the ages of 0-6), RE:Generation (for young adults) and the remaining section has combined previous exhibitions into an ‘Experiment Zone’. As with any science centre, each area demonstrates a range of phenomenon by way of experiments, button pressing, quizzes and in some cases physical exertion. Don’t overlook the Heavens of Copernicus planetarium, which immerses visitors in 20 million stars, and also screens films about natural science and the origins of life on earth (separate ticket required, admission 2D: 22/16zł and 3D 27/21zł). A temporary exhibition ‘Air - it’s more than nothing’ runs until 24 February, and from 14 March another temporary exhibition ‘Measure Yourself’ will be available.

It’s easy to declare that the centre is well-worth a few hours of your time and will impress you with its design and range of experiments. To get there take buses 105, 118 or 127 to the ‘Biblioteka Uniwersytecka’ stop (CSC is around the corner), or buses 102 or 162 to ‘Metro Centrum Nauki Kopernik.’QI‑6, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl. Last entrance 1hr before closing. Note that Planetarium has separate opening hours. Admission 31/21zł. Y warsaw.inyourpocket.com 33

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A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement facades and picturesque plazas, it’s easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaw’s top tourist area.

A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ of Warsaw’s golden days when it was one of the country’s architectural pearls, the Old Town was entirely rebuilt after the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, and is also symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the ruins of WWII and of Varsovians’ pride in their city.

At the end of 1944, 85% of Warsaw’s left-bank had been razed to the ground and half of its population had perished.

The Old Town was hit with particular Nazi efficiency, and by the time the Red Army rolled across the river it was little more than a smouldering wasteland. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau chose to rebuild the historic centre, a painstaking process that would last until 1962.

Using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs the Old Town was carefully rebuilt, and is a stunning testament of the city’s will to survive.

WHAT TO SEE Most visits to the Old Town begin on  Plac Zamkowy under w King Sigismund’s Column. There isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city, and not a minute of the day when the steps to the statue aren’t besieged by dating couples, school kids and skateboarders. Erected in 1644 by Sigismund’s son, Władysław IV, the 22-metre column was designed by Italian architects Augustyn

Old Town Locci and Constantino Tencalla. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived, losing only his sword, and he was returned to his new perch in 1949. The remains of the original column can be seen nearby at the side of the e Royal Castle.

Moving north, head up ul. Świętojańska to have a gaze at the historically rich r St. John the Baptist Cathedral (ul. Świętojańska 8) and the Renaissance-era t Jesuit Church next door (ul. Świętojańska 10). If you’re struggling to believe that at the end of 1944 all before you was just rubble, take a look at the black and white photographs illustrating the devastation on ul. Zapiecek; the Old Town’s subsequent inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1980 is also remembered in some cobblestone pavers here.

Resisting the draw of the market square for the time being, instead head down ul. Piwna - aptly named ‘Beer Street’ after the 15th century breweries that once operated here - for a glimpse of y St. Martin’s Church at ul. Piwna 9/11.

Flattened during the war, the only fragment to survive was a half-burned figure of Jesus. During the period of Martial Law, Solidarity supporters would convene here to worship and hold secret meetings. As with the rest of the Old Town, the real beauty of ul. Piwna lies in the details - check out the elaborate motifs and gargoyles that peer from the facades, including a flock of pigeons on the portal of number 6.

Stay on the left flank of the Old Town to check out the area around ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska, once home to a small square used for executions. Nicknamed ‘Piekarka,’ this is where witches and other ne’er do wells were burned at the stake, hanged, or beheaded. Marking the end of Piekarska, just outside the old city walls, check out the sword waving figure of u Jan Kiliński - a legendary Polish patriot and hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Tadeusz Kościuszko himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5; this wide street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the narrow street running at a 90-degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages. Directly behind the wall, and onto ul. Podwale, you’ll find one of Warsaw’s most poignant landmarks - i The Little Insurgent Monument, which honours the memory of the child soldiers who fought and died during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. Follow Podwale as it curves northwards, and you’ll eventually arrive at the o Barbican. Crowning the set of defensive walls which once protected the city, this fearsome rotund structure dates from 1548. Today it serves as a bridge between the Old and New Town.

At this point you’ll find your nose pointing straight down ul. Nowomiejska, which will finally lead you to the beautiful a Old Town Square (Rynek). Measuring 90 by 73 metres, this square is Warsaw’s defining highlight, lined with richly-decorated burgher houses. During the 15th century the Old Town Square was home to Warsaw’s

THE STORY OF SYRENKA

The mermaid is the symbol of Warsaw, and as such you’ll find her likeness on everything from buses to beer cans. Firmly established as an icon of Warsaw you’ll find no less than three mermaid statues in Warsaw, specifically on Old Town Square (F-4), Świętokrzyski Bridge (I-4) and on ul. Karowa (G/H-5). The original mermaid – or syrena in local parlance – stands in the Historical Museum, and was crafted from bronze by the expert hand of Ludwika Nitschowa.

The first known mention of a mermaid as the symbol of Warsaw can be traced to a royal seal dated from 1390, though this one certainly wasn’t much to look at depicting a hideous looking bloke with a dragon’s tail. It’s no surprise that over the next few centuries this rather grim form was given a bit of plastic surgery. The actual legend rather has been debated and disputed scores of times. One story is that Prince Kazimierz, while hunting in the marshlands that are now Warsaw, lost his bearings and faced a night in the open. Miraculously, a mermaid emerged and guided the prince to safety by firing burning arrows into the sky. Warsaw was founded out of gratitude, and the mermaid adopted as its emblem.

Another story suggests that the Warsaw mermaid originally hailed from foreign climes. Accompanied by her twin sister the pair swam across the Baltic Sea, arriving in Gdańsk. Here the sisters split, one swimming to Copenhagen and the other downthe Vistula finally emerging near the present-day Old Town. Local fishermen soon noticed someone tampering with their nets, freeing the fish in the process, and teamed up to catch this pesky vandal once and for all. They soon changed their minds once they saw her, and her sirenlike singing voice made her a firm favourite among the lads. All except one who decided to trap her and take her on tour around the sideshows of Poland. His plan was soon foiled after a smitten fisherman hatched a daring plan to free her. In thanks to the townspeople who rescued her the Syrenka swore to make it her life’s mission to protect Warsaw. It’s this defensive stance of hers which explains why you’ll see her armed to the teeth with a sword and shield.QI‑6. warsaw.inyourpocket.com 35

Old Town e

ROYAL CASTLE

More a palace than a castle, this building is the pride of Warsaw, reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by now deceased commie buddies such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money for rebuilding came from generous donations from exiled Poles.

Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the residence of Polish kings, then of the president and then the seat of parliament. The prescribed tour will take you through the Kings’ apartments and chambers, heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments.

Maps on the wall reflect Poland’s greatest days, when it stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea. The apartments of Prince Józef Poniatowski are also open to the public, although a separate ticket is needed, and includes his surprisingly cerulean bedroom and grand collection of paintings.

Some of the halls are reputed to be intermittently haunted by a ‘white lady.’ According to legend her appearance signals imminent disaster. The nearby chapel boasts an urn containing the heart of Polish hero and freedom fighter Tadeusz Kościuszko. Next on the tour, the Houses of Parliament. Last but not least, the opulent Great Assembly Hall has so much gold stuck to the walls it’s hard to resist the temptation to scratch some off just a bit, they wouldn’t notice. Behave or get accosted by vigilant wardens and enjoy the views across the river to the Praga district instead. For those interested in the Castle’s reconstruction the basement exhibition “From Destruction to Reconstruction” details the building’s resurrection after World War II rendered the place a pile of rubble. Note that this exhibition is free. The east-wing also contains the paid Gallery of Paintings, Sculpture and the Decorative Arts, included in the ticket price, which includes works by Rembrandt. To mark 100 years of Polish Independence, from November 2018 - March 2019 there will be a temporary exhibition titled ‘Signs of freedom: on the continuation of Polish national identity’. Until then ticket prices will be reduced to 30/20zł.QG‑4, Pl. Zamkowy 4, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 30/20zł. Wed free. U 36 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Today you’ll find a couple of water pumps dating from the 19th century, as well as Warsaw’s best loved monument - s Syrenka. Cast in 1855 this mermaid’s form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in the capital. While the Old Town Square presents no shortage of ways to part tourists from their cash, one place that is worth popping into is d U Fukiera at Rynek 27 (p.97). The culinary tradition here dates from 1810 when the Fukier family turned this place into Warsaw’s top winery, and their guest list reads as something of a Who’s Who of stage and screen. Nearby is the f Warsaw Museum.

Leaving the square from the opposite corner from the Historical Museum, make a left down ul. Celna, turn left again on ul. Brzozowa and visit the g Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre for an in-depth multimedia led trip detailing the Old Town’s architectural history, from origins, to destruction and post-war rebuilding. Head back up ul.

Brzozowa to reach a grassy bank that offers sweeping views of the River Wisła. Known as h Gnojna Góra (Compost Hill), this small knoll once served as the town rubbish dump, and at one stage was also renowned for its healing properties - people with obscene amounts of money would actually come here to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis (doesn’t work, we’ve tried).

Head back towards the Old Town by walking towards ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city. Finally, conclude your epic walking tour by swerving onto ul. Kanonia. Once a graveyard, this little square features a cracked cathedral bell (that promises good luck if you touch the top and circle it) as well as one of the world’s most narrow houses at number 20/22. Note the covered walkway nearby, which links the Cathedral to the Royal Castle. This was built after a failed assassination attempt on Sigismund III. The King escaped unharmed, but the hapless hitman, Michał Piekarski, found himself skinned alive, stretched by four horses and then chopped into pieces with an axe!

You yourself are now within horse-stretching distance of your starting point by the Royal Castle and Sigismund’s Column. Point your fatigued figure in the direction of Krakowskie Przedmieście and prepare yourself to take the path of Kings along The Royal Route. Cue fanfare!

WARSAW MUSEUM After a long and exhaustive renovation, one of our favourite museums in Warsaw finally reopened in grand fashion at the end of May 2017. The museum’s stored permanent collection (300,000 items total) now consists of three new curated sections: The Things of Warsaw, Warsaw Data and The History of Tenement Houses. Only 7,352 objects were initially selected to be displayed over 8 thematic rooms, however, now all remaining rooms are open (21 in total).

Every item has been carefully chosen and many played starring roles in the city’s history. There is plenty to see in

Old Town this fascinating museum. The very buildings the museum is located in are a sight to behold. Interestingly, despite severe damage during the war, many of the original aspects of the architecture remained intact and can be viewed during your visit. The museum is a truly amazing and kinaesthetic way of experiencing the events and understanding the processes that formed Warsaw as we know it today. Note, a ticket here also grants entry into the Praga District Museum.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 277 44 02, www.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł comes with headphones. Thu free. U­Y ADAM MICKIEWICZ MUSEUM OF LITERATURE Find out about the smart Alec who inspired Romanticism in Poland. As well as having a number of manuscripts and historical artefacts connected with Mickiewicz, the museum also has exhibits connected with other leading Polish writers. Be sure to check out the three other related sites that are part of the city’s Museum of Literature: the Władysław Broniewski Museum of Literature at ul. J. Dąbrowskiego 51 (F-15), the Andrzej Strug Museum of Literature at Al. Niepodległości 210/10A (E-11) and the Maria Dąbrowska Museum of Literature at Rynek Starego Miasta 22/24.

QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 20, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 76 91, www.muzeumliteratury.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Wed, Thu 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat and every last Sun of the month. Admission 6/5zł, Sun is free for the permanent exhibit. Children and students up to 26 years of age pay 1zł. N OLD TOWN HERITAGE INTERPRETATION CENTRE The Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre is a branch of the Warsaw Museum, however, it focuses on the architectural history of the Old Town and its destruction during World War II and rebuilding efforts thereafter. The museum includes some great interactive multimedia pieces as you walk through the old basements of the building.

QF‑4, ul. Brzozowa 11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 34 02, www.ciz.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/7zł. Thu free. U­Y THE WARSAW AMBER MUSEUM A museum 40 million years in the making, and now you, dear visitor, have the chance to visit! OK, OK, so we know it hasn’t been here this long, but it’s certainly packed full of the Baltic Sea’s prized gemstone. Free to enter, it’s located on the Old Town square, and although not big, in the permanent exhibition ‘The Time of Amber’ (Czas Bursztynu) you will learn about the processes leading to amber’s creation, the ‘inclusions’ (bugs!) that ended up inside, conjuring up images of Jurassic Park! What’s more, you will see the various forms and shapes the gemstone can be cut into, whether it be for jewellery or items of varying shapes and sizes!QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 506 00 76 85, www.muzeumbursztynu.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Admission free.

pARK mINIATUR

wOJEWÓDZTWA mAZOWIECKIEGO krakowskie przedmieście street 66

explore warsaw as it used to be...

open everyday 10:00-21.00 “ (...)Many splendid pieces of Warsaw’s

architecture are gone or disfigured forever — victims of war and communism. But now some can be appreciated again — in miniature(...) ”

www.miniaturymazowieckie.pl fa ce b o o k . co m /p a r k m i n i a t u r warsaw.inyourpocket.com 37

The Royal Route

Christmas is a great time of year to be bedazzled by the Christmas illuminations along Royal Route. | © Ewelina Lach

Warsaw’s famed ‘Royal Route’ links the city’s three Royal residences, starting from the Royal Castle on Plac Zamkowy, via Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Island, en route to Wilanów Palace in the district of the same name.

Covering 11km in length, this main artery through the city takes in a great range of Warsaw’s historic buildings, parks, churches and monuments, making a trek down the ‘path of the Kings’ a ‘must-do’ part of any visit to the city.

The heart of the route, along Krakowskie Przedmieście and Nowy Świat, will also lead you past, or more likely into, a grand selection of hostelries, restaurants and shops. Granted, a few of the further out parts of the route may not be anything to write home about, but it really is worth making the effort in order to visit the beautiful Wilanów Palace, gardens and parkland. We let you know what not to miss in our walking tour of the most travelled stretch between Plac Zamkowy and Plac Trzech Krzyży below.

KRAKOWSKIE PRZEDMIEŚCIE Krakowskie Przedmieście is easily one of Poland’s most prestigious and well-known streets. It stretches from the Royal Castle (Pl. Zamkowy 4, G-4) in the Old Town until it blends into ul. Nowy Świat. With the Royal Castle and Old Town covered extensively elsewhere in the guide, we begin our stroll from the sabre-rattling King Sigismund’s Column just outside the castle. This popular meeting point sees its steps visited by buskers, tourists and whitegowned brides in search of memorable snaps. From 38 Warsaw In Your Pocket

this point head to St. Anne’s Church (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, G-4), a neo-classical effort that survived the war but came within a whisker of collapse when work on the W-Z street tunnel in 1949 caused several landslides; it took a team of 400 workers two weeks to shore the foundations and stabilise the soil, but the real hero of the hour was Romuald Cebertowicz - a professor who invented a way of solidifying the soil via the use of electrical currents. The interior of St. Anne’s is fine, but the real reason for visiting is the viewing platform, which offers impressive views of the Old Town, distant shots of the Praga district with the red and white of the National Stadium dominating, and of the city centre skyline with the big point building (yes, that one) looking over all others.

A short stroll will take you to the Adam Mickiewicz monument (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5, G-5). This statue was erected in 1898 - the centenary of the birth of Poland’s best-loved bard. Unveiled at a time of Imperial Russian repression the very creation of his likeness was regarded as something of a bombshell, and over 12,000 patriotic Poles turned up to cheer the ribbon cutting.

Standing just behind Mr. Mickiewicz is a 1784 pink building recognisable for having a chunk missing from its facade, and the 17th century Carmelite Church (Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and of St. Joseph, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 52/54, G-5) next door is one of the best examples of the classical style to be found in Poland.

The Royal Route Stop for photos by the stone lions and stern looking guards outside the Presidential Palace (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48, G-5). Construction on the palace began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, although he died before it was completed. It passed into the hands of various aristocratic families and in the 18th century it became the famed venue for lavish society banquets - none being more extravagant than the party held to celebrate the coronation of Stanislaw II August Poniatowski in 1789, when the astounding sum of over two million złoty was spent entertaining 4,000 guests.

Some will say it was money well spent; Poniatowski proved to be one of Poland’s finest monarchs and the constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very grounds, is recognised as Europe’s first. When Poland regained independence in 1918 the reconstructed building was commandeered to serve as home to the Polish Prime Minister and his Council of Ministers. It saw more momentous events in 1955, this time when the Warsaw Pact – the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO – was ratified within its walls. In 1989 round table talks between the communists and the opposition were held here, paving the way for political freedom, and in 1994 it was appointed as the official home of the Polish President and is where current President Andrzej Duda and his family presently reside.

The Prez obviously needs classy neighbours, so next door you’ll find the elegant Bristol Hotel (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, G-5). A brass plaque boasts of its many famous guests: Picasso, Nixon and Dietrich, to name but a few. Across the street is the newly revamped Raffles Hotel Europejski - fun fact, it was here in 1967 The Rolling Stones stayed during their 1st visit to Poland, all under the watchful eye of the security services. Legend has it they very much enjoyed Polish vodka in the hotel bar... we’ll leave it at that. Across the street again, the current building of the Ministry of Culture and Art (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 15) is also home to its own historical factoid - it was here that Napoleon met his paramour Marie Walewska at a ball held in his honour.

Warsaw University entrance

PRESIDENTIAL PALACE

Of all the palaces, institutions, monuments and churches that line Krakowskie Przedmieście, none is more important than the Presidential Palace at number 46/48 - that mysterious fenced-off building guarded by stone lions and stern-looking soldiers. Construction began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It passed into the hands of various aristocratic families and in the 18th century became famed for its banquets - the most extravagant being held to commemorate the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789; over 2 million złoty was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests.

Poniatowski was to prove one of the nation’s finest monarchs and the Constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very grounds, is recognised as Europe’s first - and only the second in the world. A statue of Poniatowski’s brother, himself a military hero, was added in 1965. After 1818 the Palace became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, and its halls entertained many a visiting Tsar. In 1852 calamity struck, however, and the Palace was burned to the ground. Extensively remodelled throughout the course of its history one of its biggest revamps came at the beginning of the 20th century when one wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918 the Palace was commandeered to serve as home of the Prime Minister and his Council of Ministers. Amazingly it survived both the 1939 Siege of Warsaw and the Warsaw Uprising five years later, though that did little to stop the authorities from giving it a further facelift.

It saw more momentous events in 1955 when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as the official home of the Polish president, which is why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out, and square-jawed soldiers pointing their weapons at anyone who strays too close. The new Polish President Andrzej Duda, elected in spring 2015, currently resides in the Palace with his family.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

Photo by Stanisław Kłosin

warsaw.inyourpocket.com 39

The Royal Route

Copernicus holding his astronomical model on Krakowskie Przedmieście.

Going further, why all of a sudden do you see young, fresh faced kids? Well, you’re in Warsaw University-land.

The Uni’s main campus lies behind the grand gateway at ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28 (G-6). Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as ‘Villa Regia,’ was remodelled and renovated several times before Warsaw U was established here in 1819. The composer Fryderyk Chopin even lived here (more on him later).

The uni had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in retaliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the university continued to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar calmed down enough to rubber stamp the creation of a School of Medicine. Today, with some 57,000 students on the roll call, the university stands out as the largest and arguably best in Poland. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning hack Ryszard Kapuściński, the late president Lech Kaczyński and poet Julian Tuwim.

Head across the street to visit the Church of the Holy Cross (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, G-6). This is the famed final resting place of Fryderyk Chopin’s heart, which was sealed in an urn at his own request and placed behind a tablet featuring his likeness, becoming a place of pilgrimage for his legions of fans. Indeed, this whole area is closely connected to Chopin, and we suggest checking out our walking tour of sites connected to the man on p.42-43. Finish your Krakowskie Przedmieście wander with a visit to the Nicolaus Copernicus monument, located opposite the church, appropriately seated in front of the Polish Academy of Sciences (ul. Nowy Świat 72, G-6). The monument was unveiled in 1830 and has seen plenty of action, particularly during WWII when the Nazis added a bronze plaque suggesting the astronomer was actually German. In 1942 a brave boy scout removed the plaque, causing the Nazis to remove the monument and bomb several others as retribution. Fortunately Copernicus was recovered and restored following the war. The controversial plaque is in the Warsaw Museum (Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, F-4).QG‑4, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

40 Warsaw In Your Pocket

UL. NOWY ŚWIAT Nip across the ul. Świętokrzyska intersection and Krakowskie Przedmieście suddenly becomes the New World! The story of ul. Nowy Świat (New World Street) dates back to medieval times when it was traversed by Kings on their way between Warsaw and Kraków, with the first settlements appearing in the area during the 17th century. Levelled during WWII, the street found itself rebuilt in rather uniform neo-classical style, as returning it to its predominantly Art Nouveau pre-war style was simply unfeasible. Nowy Świat, along with its little off-shoot streets, has long been seen as one of THE places to be seen and is home to numerous shops, bars and eateries. Expect a myriad of modern and traditional restaurants and coffee shops, including the popular Bierhalle microbrewery which makes an ideal pitstop at ul. Nowy Świat 64 (G-7), before shoving off to snap a pic of the former home of cult writer and Anglophile Joseph Conrad at number 45. If it’s too early in the day for a hefty German style beer, drop into the renowned Café Blikle (ul. Nowy Świat 33, G-7), famous for once serving doughnuts to a young and sweet-toothed Charles de Gaulle. Just across the street you will find super trendy ul. Foksal (G-7) for more gastronomic and drinking opportunities; follow it to its end to see Zamoyski Palace (ul. Foksal 1/2/4), a neo-renaissance pearl designed by Marconi and the scene of a botched assassination attempt on the Russian governor in 1863. Infuriated Cossack troops reacted by launching a piano once tickled by Chopin out the window, though nowadays the drama is limited to dancing in the basement club or dining on the elegant ground floor.

Back onto Nowy Świat you should now be in sight of our city’s famous plastic Palm Tree which stands on the de Gaulle roundabout at the intersection of Al. Jerozolimskie and Nowy Świat. First off, the tree is not actually a tree, rather a steel column (specially designed so it can bend in the wind), covered with natural bark and leaves made from polyethylene. Created by artist Joanna Rajkowska, the palm links the fauna of the city of Jerusalem with its namesake avenue ‘Jerozolimskie’ in Warsaw. Manufactured in California the tree sent city hall into a spin, its baffled bureaucrats not knowing what the devil to do with it; seeing that it wasn’t a tree, building nor a monument there was nothing in their

Warsaw’s famous, and oddly placed, Palm Tree

The Royal Route big book of rules directing what to do about it. Eventually it was unveiled to a curious Warsaw public on December 12, 2002. The populace liked this surprise Christmas present so much it became a permanent fixture, as well as the occasional sleeping habitat of returning clubbers too trollied to figure they haven’t stumbled on a desert oasis.

And with that in mind, before reaching the palm tree, however, one must stop off at an oasis, and there is no place better than the legendary rat-like maze of Pawilony (The Pavilions) located behind the gates at number 22.

Klaps (ul. Nowy Świat 22/28, Pavilion 12A, G-8) is a can’tmiss experience if you like your décor to include a wall of plastic boobs and beer taps crowned with vibrators!

Before crossing the busy roundabout keep your eyes peeled for a poignant Socialist Realist mural of a girl holding a pistol - one of the earliest tributes to the Warsaw Uprising. Once safely across de Gaulle roundabout, you will be greeted by a monument to the great General himself.

Behind him stands the hulking edifice of the former Communist HQ at Nowy Świat 6 (H-8). Completed in 1948, rumours that it was secretly connected by a tunnel to the Palace of Culture appear unsubstantiated, but you have to love the irony that it briefly served as home to the stock exchange; today the building hosts numerous offices, a Ferrari dealership and Cuda na Kiju - one of Warsaw’s best real ale multi-tap bars. Scurry along this fairly uninspiring stretch of Nowy Świat to Pl. Trzech Krzyży (H-8), home to the beautiful 19th century classical style St. Alexander’s Church (ul. Książęca 21, H-8). The surrounding area is home to some of Warsaw’s top boutiques, including the likes of Burberry, Zegna and Escada.QH‑8, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet.

FURTHER ON From Plac Trzech Krzyży (H‑8), Warsaw’s ‘royal route’ continues down the Embassy-land of Aleje Ujazdowskie past the Ujazdowskie and Łazienki Parks (I‑11), down ul. Belwederska (I‑13), ul. Sobieskiego (J‑15) and Aleja Wilanowska to ultimately end at Wilanów Palace - the 17th century private residence of King Jan III Sobieski.

While a walking tour of the remaining 10km isn’t realistic, or especially rewarding, Łazienki and Wilanów are both required visits for getting a broader sense of Warsaw’s history and former glory as the grand capital of a vast and wealthy commonwealth stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea. We detail both destinations extensively further on in our Sightseeing section, and though both could occupy the better part of a day on their own, you can also easily continue your tour from the bus stop at the southern end of Pl. Trzy Krzyży. To get to Łazienki Park, simply hop on bus numbers 116, 166 or 180 and get off two stops later at ‘Łazienki Królewskie.’ For Wilanów, take bus 116, 180 or E‑2 and get off at ‘Wilanów’ 25mins later. warsaw.inyourpocket.com 41

Chopin There’s one thing we can be certain of, however, and that’s his birthplace – the town of Żelazowa Wola (p.65) 50km west of Warsaw. However, he stayed there for just a year, with the family moving to Warsaw in 1811 after his ‘father’ found a job as a French tutor.

Chopin Monument in Łazienki Park (p.44)

© Marcin Chodorowski

By all accounts he was a prodigy from the offing. Fryderyk started learning piano at the age of four, and by the age of eight had already performed at what is now the Presidential Palace (p.39). A diligent student he was educated at home for the first 13 years, before attending Warsaw’s Lyceum, and then the Warsaw Music Conservatory. He continued to blossom under its director, the Polish composer Joseph Elsner, who was wowed by his musical mastery. He graduated from the Conservatory in 1829, the same year he was to meet Konstancja Gładkowska, and his love for her inspired many of his early compositions.

Poland’s greatest composer, and Warsaw’s favourite son, Fryderyk Chopin (1810-1849) has lent his name to everything from vodka to airports (and even an asteroid).

And in the spirit of all the greats there’s a considerable element of mystery surrounding the man. Say it very, very quietly, but there’s even dispute as to his birthday and parentage. Most sources agree he was born on February 22, 1810, yet some claim his family could be found celebrating his birth on March 1. At the time of his death only Jane Stirling, his Scottish benefactor, claimed to know the truth, and this she wrote on a piece of paper before burying it with him. Furthermore, while most accept he was the son of a French expatriate some experts argue he was the W bastard child of an unnamed aristocrat.

Within three weeks of graduation he made a sparkling foreign debut in Vienna, before returning to Poland to perform the premier of his Piano Concerto in F minor.

Already recognised for his talent, Chopin started showing the signs of illness that would blight the rest of his life.

A keen traveller (he undertook a tour of Europe in 1826 during which time he visited Dresden, Kraków, Prague and numerous other places), Chopin set off to play in Vienna in November 1830, following a farewell party in a Wola tavern.

is Unbeknownst to him at the time, that was to be his last łataste of Warsaw. By the end of the month Poland had

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risen in rebellion against the ruling Russians. Choosing to stay in exile, Chopin settled in playboy Paris where he was welcomed by Polish émigrés, as well as upcoming composers and high society. The 1830s saw Chopin enjoy an impressively productive spell, composing a series of acclaimed polonaises and mazurkas.

The defining point in his life was in 1837 when he met the controversial author George Sand (yes, that’s a woman).

His first impression is recorded as being surprisingly acid: ‘what an unpleasant woman’, he commented. Already secretly engaged to a 17 year old Polish girl, how Chopin’s life would have evolved if he had never seen Sand again is open to speculation. Instead he embarked on a torrid nine year affair with this classic ‘scarlet woman,’ with one stage of their rocky relationship marked by a stint in an abandoned monastery on the island of Mallorca.

Racked with chronic lung problems and a near permanent cough, the faltering affair spun out of control when Sand serialised the novel Lucretia Floriani in a Paris newspaper in 1846. The boorish, asexual antihero is commonly recognised as being a parody of Chopin. Broke, ill and now broken-hearted, Chopin led an increasingly miserable and secluded life. He finally passed away in his Paris apartment aged just 39. Buried in Pere-Lachaise cemetery in Paris, on his insistence his body was cut open (he was petrified of being buried alive) and his heart later interned in a pillar of Warsaw’s Holy Cross Church.

Chopin WALKING TOUR Our short Chopin Walking Tour is only 1.3 km long and with the exception of the first two stops, largely follows the same path as the Royal Route (p.38) which leads nicely into the Old Town Walking Tour (p.34). First stop, The Fryderyk Chopin Museum.

1 FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM Touted as one of the most high tech in Europe the museum officially opened in the spring of 2010 to help mark the 200th anniversary of Chopin’s birth. Taking up four floors, the museum features an interactive style and shares the life of Chopin from start to finish leaving absolutely no detail out. So comprehensive is the collection it even features the last letter he wrote to his family and dried flowers from his deathbed. Also, of course, are several paintings and sculptures (including his death mask), and a recreation of his Paris drawing room and even an intriguing section on the women who made the man.

However, what really revolutionises this museum is the way your route is conducted. Aside from an avalanche of touchscreen multimedia, the museum allows visitors to ‘adapt their trip to their particular circumstances’. Put simply, those entering can choose exactly what they want to see. Even better are the e-card tickets that can be swiped along different interactive exhibits to allow the visitor to hear music, stories or watch a film.

Located in the Ostrogski Palace the structure housing the museum is something of a Warsaw landmark, and was originally designed by Tylman van Gameren. In the past it was home to a Napoleonic military hospital, and its catacombs are said to be home of the legendary Golden Duck - a princess charmed by the devil before being transformed. After your visit, at the rear of the museum, you’ll find stop no. 2 of our tour.QH‑7, ul. Okólnik 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, www.chopin.museum/pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 45mins before closing.

Admission 22/13zł, family ticket 62zł, Sun free. Number of visitors is restricted, so we suggest reserving tickets in advance via the website. Guided tours in English 120zł and Polish 100 zł, available by prior arrangement. Tickets/Ecards available in English and Polish which display info on screen next to exhibit when card is placed on reader. U 2 CHOPIN MURAL

Created in 2010 to mark the XVI International Chopin Piano Competition in Warsaw (The Year of Chopin, marking his birthday in 1810). The piece shows the composer in the company of people, objects and stories connected with his life - George Sand, tourists, Napoleon Bonaparte as well as the planetoid (3784 Chopin) named after him. The artwork was designed by Marcin Urbanek, although the creation of the piece was a collective effort by many artists. From here, head up the hill on ul. Tamka, right at the roundabout and follow ul.

Kopernika until you reach the Copernicus Monument, and the church in front of you is the next stop.QH‑7, ul. Tamka 37.

3 HOLY CROSS CHURCH No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw without visiting the final resting place of his heart. Added to the church in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and placed behind a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved by Leonardo Marconi. Upon exiting, turn left and continue down Krakowskie Przemieście (p. 38), stopping at the Entrance to 4 Warsaw University where you’ll see a plaque stating Chopin lived here for 10 years also, directly behind you, look up at the building to see another place he lived in before emigrating to France.

QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl.

Open 10:00 - 11:00, 13:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No visiting during mass please (at 12:00 daily).

5 CHOPIN BENCHES Fifteen musical benches have been placed at key sites connected with his life. Designed by Professor Jerzy Porębski, they feature a button, when pressed, unleash a 30 second torrent of Chopin. Each bench provides explanations in EN/PL to the site’s relevance to Chopin. Continue towards the Old Town, sticking to the right.QG‑6, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, www.biuro.chopin2010.pl.

6 CHURCH OF THE NUNS OF THE VISITATION Visit the church that Chopin attended in his youth. Pride of place goes to the original organ which he played as a school organist. Continue onward and you’ll see the Presidential Palace where Chopin played his first public concert. Just beyond, after the monument to poet Adam Mickiewicz, is the next stop.QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 34, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 692 42 25, www.wizytki. waw.pl. Open 08:30 - 17:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:45, 14:30 16:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. No visiting during mass please.

7 CHOPIN POINT WARSAW Chopin Point is situated in the building where the composer played a concert at the age of 13! After all this Chopinology, you may have an urge to listen to more of his music - here, you can. Both a cafe (10:00-18:00) and a concert venue (19:00-20:00), Chopin piano recitals take place daily at 19.00. If you wish to see more of the romanticism surrounding Chopin’s life, after the Old Town, you may wish to go to Łazienki Park, where there is a large monument dedicated to him.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 62, MPlac Bankowy, tel. (+48) 601 80 83 92, www.chopinpoint.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Tickets 60/40zł, includes welcome drink.

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Łazienki Anyone who still thinks that Warsaw is a city of concrete and cement has clearly never been to the city’s lung, the incomparable Łazienki Park. Quite simply, this glorious, 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of the jewels in Poland’s crown, which might explain why half of Warsaw chooses to spend its summer Sundays here. Fear not though, for so big is Łazienki that it never gives the impression of being crowded, and even on the busiest of days you will always be able to find a quiet, shady corner somewhere.

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The name Łazienki means baths and is derived from the park’s centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace on the Island. The palace was originally built in the 17th century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski, owner of the adjacent Ujazdowski Castle and much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private residence (thus taking the name Palace on the Island). It was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as a private garden, most of the landscaping being carried out to the designs of Karol Ludwig Agricola and Karol Schultz. Today dotted with many palaces (big and small), summer houses, pavilions, mansions, cafes, restaurants, lakes and theatres, Łazienki offers much to see and to make the best of it you should plan to spend a full day here.

While you can buy tickets for each Łazienki attraction individually, you can also purchase a one-day ticket (45/30zł) which offers single-access to a chunk of the attractions (the Botanical Garden is not among them).

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Let’s experience the essence of Italy!

Łazienki, up until very recently, was further evidence of the fact that many Central Europeans have never quite grasped the idea of what parks are actually for. With superbly kept grass at every turn, perfect for picnics, pick up games of cricket, softball, football or whatever else it is people get up to in parks in the western world, Łazienki once took a very stern ‘look but don’t touch’ attitude when it came to its lawns. That said, the park now allows you to have a picnic on all patches of grass in the park. Finally, progress!QI‑11, go Mikke ul. Agrykoli 1, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Open 07:00 - 20:00.

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CHOPIN MONUMENT & TEMPLE OF SIBYL On entering the park proper, make your first port of call the Chopin Monument, sculpted by Wacław Szymanowski and unveiled in 1926. It depicts Chopin sitting right here in Łazienki, next to a willow tree. The original sculpture was rz yn iec destroyed during WWII, and the one we admire today went up in 1958. Almost hidden in the trees a few metres from Chopin is the astonishing Temple of the Sibyl (closed to the public), an 1820s replica Greek Temple built entirely of wood. Look out too for a gaggle of other little buildings here such as the Hermitage, the Egyptian Temple and the Water Tower. None are currently open to the public.

QI‑12, MPolitechnika, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. ka

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warsaw.inyourpocket.com 45

Łazienki GETTING TO ŁAZIENKI Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three main entrances on Al. Ujazdowskie, including numbers 116, 166 and 180. From the city centre, however, perhaps the easiest way of reaching Łazienki is to take a tram from ‘Centrum’ to ‘Pl. Unii Lubelskiej,’ and walk 100 metres along ul. Bagatela to the park’s southern entrance, in front of the Belvedere Palace.

Orientation around the park is relatively easy given the prominent placement of maps and signs - in Polish and English - in key locations. There is also a very good Łazienki complex map (again, in Polish and English) which can be picked up for free from the Palace on the Island. If you enter the park via any of the entrances on Al. Ujazdowskie, chances are you will end up, willingly or not, via some surprisingly hilly paths set with tall trees, at the vast artificial lake in the park’s centre, straddled by the magnificent Palace on the Island. In doing so however, you risk missing out on a few treasures, such as The Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship, so try to circumnavigate the park instead.

While you can buy tickets for each Łazienki attraction individually, you can also purchase a one-day ticket (40/25zł) which offers single-access to a chunk of the attractions (the Botanical Garden is not among them).

QH‑11, ul. Agrykoli 1.

PALACE ON THE ISLAND The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison d’etre.

The palace - completed in 1683 to designs by Tylman Gamerski - was originally a bathhouse, converted into a residence in the late 1700s (after being bought by Stanisław August Poniatowski). The palace is built on an artificial island that divides the lake into two parts, and is connected to the surrounding park by two colonnaded bridges. The façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors and are crowned by a balustrade that bears statues of mythological figures. The northern façade is relieved by a striking central portico,

The Palace on the Lake shimmers in its splendor Photo by Paweł Czarnecki

46 Warsaw In Your Pocket

while the southern façade’s deep central recess lies behind a screen of Corinthian columns. Today a museum, almost all of the palace can be visited including the main reception room, Solomon’s Hall, decorated in the most extravagant of Baroque styles with a series of paintings depicting the History of Solomon. They were executed for King Stanisław Augustus in 1791–93 by Marcello Bacciarelli and depicted the monarch himself as the biblical king. Many of the king’s personal rooms are also open to the public, set in their original context.QI‑11, ul. Agrykola 1, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00. From May open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 25/18zł and comes with headphones, Thu free. Children and students up to 26 years of age pay 1zł. Y UJAZDOWSKI CASTLE (MUSEUM OF MODERN ART/CSW) A castle of some description has been on found on this site since the time of the Masovian Dukes (1300s), but the Ujazdowski Castle we see today was completed in a Baroque style in 1730 for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski (it was his bathhouse that later became the Palace on the Island and gave Łazienki park its name). Ujazdowski survived two centuries before being gutted by fire during WWII, and was indeed lucky to escape total destruction: the retreating Nazis actually tried to blow it to pieces, as they did a number of Łazienki’s finest buildings. But as is so often the case - what the Nazis couldn’t do the communists could, and though the original walls and foundations remained structurally sound in the 1950s Poland’s communist authorities decided to tear down the shell of the building and place a military theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed however, and the 1970s saw Ujazdowski rebuilt to its original plans. It today plays host to several large exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing rotating exhibitions of the very best contemporary art inside; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, featuring the work of Poland’s leading contemporary artists here. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery also houses a very good bookshop and reading room where you can freely peruse a huge collection of albums, magazines and books many of which are in English.

There is also a fantastic cinema on site (U-jazdowski Kino) plus a top notch restaurant and café.QI‑10, ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, www.ujazdowski.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Thu, Fri 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 16/8zł, Thu free, students up to 26 years of age 1zł. U­Y MUSEUM OF HUNTING & HORSEMANSHIP Very much as advertised, this museum will appeal to any avid horse enthusiast.QJ‑12, ul. Szwoleżerów 9, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 522 66 30, www.muzeum. warszawa.pl. Closed Mon, From January open 09:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.

Admission 10/5zł. Thu free. Children and students up to 26 years of age pay 1zł. Y

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The Wilanów Palace Museum, still bright in winter! | Artur Malinowski, flickr CC BY 2.0

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The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century palace which can be found in the Warsaw district of Wilanów, 10km south of the city centre. Essential visiting for all who come to soak up the capital’s lavish culture and wish to understand a little more about ancient Poland, Wilanów is more than just a palace – it represents an era from which much has been lost. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings represent the height of Polish Baroque and this is one of Poland’s greatest national treasures.The sprawling 45-hectare setting is also full of things to do, from visiting the superb Poster Museum next door to renting a rowboat on the palace’s lake. If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend an entire and thoroughly rewarding day here.

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It is very easy to visit Warsaw and imagine its history stretches no further back than the post-war communist era and before that to WWII, when the city was effectively wiped from the map of Europe. But that would be to only understand a small part of this city’s history. The nation’s capital has been in Warsaw since the late 16th century and at one time was the centre of the burgeoning Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, a union which lasted over 200 years and whose territory at once stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea (incorporating much of modern day Poland, Ukraine, Belarus and the Baltic States). With so much of pre-war Warsaw destroyed there are few places to experience what this must have been like more than at Wilanow’s palace and gardens.

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Wilanów HISTORY

THE WILANÓW PALACE MUSEUM

Photo by W. Holnicki

Wilanów gets its name from the Warsaw borough in which Wilanów Palace is located. First mentioned in the 13th century as Milanów, the then tiny village changed hands several times before being bought in the 17th century by the family of Stanisław Leszczyński. Leszczyński began building a palace here, but the project was halted by the Deluge and the subsequent capture and plundering of the region by the Swedes. In 1676 the abandoned Milanów was bought by King Jan III Sobieski looking for a country retreat away from Warsaw, and he ordered a new palace to be built on the site. Originally called ‘Villa Nova’ (New Village), the name was soon polonised to the one it’s known by today.

A brick manor house was built in 1680, expanding in two stages into a palace during the years 1681-1696 under the supervision of Agostino Locci to his own design.

The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the palace’s interior, comes in two parts. Having bought your ticket, enter the wing on the right and descend the stairs. Head through a small room, up the stairs into the first part of the museum The Polish Portrait Gallery. Wander through room after room of portraits of the rich and the powerful from the 16-19th century. If portraits are your thing you will find this very interesting, though the lack of descriptions is frustrating.

The tour leads you around the upper level of the house, however, during winter and well into 2019, this will be closed for renovation. Downstairs you will find yourself in the Wilanów Palace Residence. Featuring residential rooms, suits of armour, Etruscan vases, magnificent frescoes and even a private chapel. The central part of the lower floor is the most impressive. It is here that you will find the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife, while the wings house the apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace.

It is quite easy to spend a couple of hours wandering around the palace but be warned that it tends to fill with schoolchildren during the week and tourists at the weekends so there’s not really a best time to visit during the school year.

The gardens are open 09:00-18:00 until 26 October, and from 27 October - 24 February 09:00-16:00. For all the latest information on permanent/temporary exhibitions, visit the Wilanów Palace website.QP‑2, ul.

S.K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www. wilanow-palac.art.pl. Open 09:30 - 16:00, Closed Tue. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 20/15zł, Thu free, but you must obtain an obligatory ticket. Audioguide (available in Chinese, English, French, German, Italian, Russian and Spanish) 10zł.

Tickets can be purchased online. U­Y 48 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Photo by W. Holnicki

After Jan III Sobieski’s death in 1696, his widow returned to France and the palace, through their sons, became the property of Elżbieta Sieniawska who continued to develop the palace. Sieniawska, like many of the subsequent owners, honoured Sobieski by conserving much of the palace in memory of the victorious king. It was to become a royal residence again in the early 1730s during the reign of August II the Strong. Over the next two hundred years the palace became the property of a succession of the most important Polish families including the Czartoryskis, Lubomirskis, Potockis and Branickis, and each left their mark as they expanded and developed the property. One of its most enlightened residents was Stanislaw Kostka Potocki who in the early 19th century made his collection of art and access to the royal apartments of King Jan III Sobieski available to the public. Keep an eye out for the words ‘Cunctis patet ingressus’ on the palace floor signifying that the palace and its collection were ‘open to all.’

The palace avoided the fate of the city of Warsaw and survived the war virtually intact, though its collections were seriously looted. Confiscated by Poland’s postwar Communist government, Wilanów became part of the National Museum in Warsaw and was painstakingly renovated during the 1950s and early 1960s, opening its doors to the public again in 1962.

Wilanów WILANÓW PARK & GARDENS The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park grew over the centuries according to the particular fancies of its owners. The park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s, overseen by the architect and historian Professor Gerard Ciołek (1909-1966). The park grounds include a twolevel Baroque garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscaped park and the so called EnglishChinese landscape park. The park near the Orangery, East, North and Rose gardens and their associated architecture were recently the subject of a major revitalisation program and during work on the Baroque garden a series of archaeological digs discovered several artefacts, including ceramics dating from the 12th century.Qul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 5/3zł, Thu free. Note that an obligatory 0zł ticket is still required on Thursdays. Really. Y POSTER MUSEUM Housed inside the Wilanów Palace’s former indoor riding area, the Poster Museum features two large halls full of wonderful posters from all over the world. At over 55,000 pieces, this is reportedly the largest poster collection to be found anywhere. The museum focuses on the artistic merits of the posters rather than their documentary value and plays host to a cycle of temporary events and exhibitions.

Qul. S. K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.postermuseum.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Mon 12:00 - 16:00. Admission 11/8zł, Mon free.

ST. ANNE’S CHURCH A church has stood on this site since the 14th century, when the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here. This was replaced by a Gothic wooden construction and graveyard in the 16th century and wasn’t replaced with a brick one until well after the time of Jan III Sobieski in 1772. The new church was called St. Anne’s and was founded by Prince August Adam Czartoryski to a design by Jan Kotelnicki.

Czartoryski’s grand-daughter, Aleksandra Lubomirska Potocka, decorated the church with art in the period 17991831, the most precious of which is the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary in the main altar.

St. Anne’s Church

Photo by Stanisław Kłosin

Poster Museum

Between 1857 and 1870, Aleksandra’s son August and his wife extended the church to a design by Henri Marconi. The church received a Neo-Renaissance look and the marvellous dome was added. In the gardens surrounding the church building you will find terracotta shrines marking the fourteen Stations of the Cross, while within the church, in the crypt under the chapel, are the tombs of the Potocki family.

The church suffered damage during both world wars and was even used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who also looted and damaged it. The church bells dating from 1723 and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people who hid them; today they are housed in the newly built Third Millennium Tower.Qul. St. Kostki Potockiego 18, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.pl.

Open 07:00 - 18:30. Sun 07:00 - 20:00.

GETTING TO WILANÓW The Palace and Gardens at Wilanów can be reached best of all by bus or taxi directly from the city centre.

The city’s metro system does run to a stop called ‘Wilanowska’ but this is about 5km from the palace and will involve taking a bus (139, 710 or 724) from outside of the station. All buses stop directly outside the palace gates at the ‘Wilanów’ stop.

BY BUS From the Old Town/Plac Zamkowy/Nowy Świat (F4), Pl. Trzech Krzyży (H-8) and Łazienki Park (H-11): Take buses 116 or 180; journey takes 25-35 minutes.

From the centre (F-8): Take bus 519 or 200 from Warszawa Centralna train station, or 519 from outside the Cepelia store on ul.

Marszałkowska 99, next to the roundabout.

BY TAXI Costing 35-40zł with a recommended company such as Sawa Taxi (tel. 22 644 44 44), a taxi ride to Wilanów is something of a false economy, taking more or less the same time as the bus to get there. If you prefer the comfort and privacy of your own car then also look for ELE taxis parked around the city.Qul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16. warsaw.inyourpocket.com 49

Praga TOURIST INFORMATION The Praga district’s tourist information office, located in the newly opened Koneser Center. Free maps and guides are all available here, and of course, some very helpful staff to keep you right!QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, www.warsawtour.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. W In practice, and geographically, Praga has always been set apart from Warsaw proper. Until 1791 the district was its own separate town and the inability to build a permanent bridge between Praga and Warsaw until the mid-18th century surely proved a factor in the separatism (ferries in the summer and a stroll across the iced-over Vistula in the winter were the main option for transit in the pre-bridge days). Finally in 1791 King Stanislaw August Poniatowski attached the district officially to Warsaw, dissolving it of its independence (at least on paper).

‘I Love Praga’ mural on ul. Stalowa 25 (J-1).

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Praga wasn’t given much time to enjoy its new status as part of Warsaw thanks to the The Battle of Praga in 1794, which saw an aggressive invasion by the Russian army.

Following the quick but devastating battle the Russians burned the entire district and massacred the 20,000 Poles living there. During World War II Praga wasn’t quite as devastated as left-bank Warsaw (which isn’t really saying much if you’ve seen the condition Warsaw was left in). The Russians, again, arrived in Praga in July 1944 and stopped Te Ch at the Vistula, famously leaving re the Polish Home Army oda sp ow ol ska dangling during the kWarsaw Uprising. sk a

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Gritty. Bo-ho. There are a lot of terms being tossed around to describe Praga, the eastern district of Warsaw that hugs the Vistula River, and they’re all fairly apt.

Praga was once regarded as off-limits to Western visitors thanks to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks, but a revival of sorts now makes this section of town worthy of emphasising – especially if you prefer to see the city’s artsy underbelly and get away from the well-trodden tourist path in Old Town from where you see the towers of Sts. Michael & Florian Cathedral and the rounded dome of the Orthodox Cathedral of St. Mary Magdalene. The area is still years away from being hipster-soaked Brooklyn or boho Montmartre, but that’s exactly why now is the time to go: a visit will mean you can say you saw the evolution in progress, before gentrification engulfs the area.

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Praga Today working-class Praga is the standard-bearer for cool, especially among those who find the tourist-heavy Old Town too Disneyfied and the sterile clubs of Warsaw proper as distasteful. Folks here prefer their bars dark and their fun improvised, and visitors can easily spend a day checking out the attractions, like street art murals, the newly reopened Praga Koneser Center with its Polish Vodka Museum, to an evening enjoying the often impressive beer selection.

1 PRAGA DISTRICT MUSEUM At long last the museum of Warsaw’s Praga District has finally opened to much fanfare. Located in the heart of Praga this relatively small museum has struck just the right chord with its interesting and impressive permanent exhibition, which not only covers the complex history of Warsaw’s right bank settlements over the years, but also captures the colourful district in several interactive multimedia exhibits.

We recommend exploring every corner of this great museum and it will inevitably encourage you to head out the door and explore Praga itself. For more info about the museum, events and upcoming exhibitions log onto their website.QJ‑3, ul. Targowa 50/52, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 518 34 30, www.muzeumpragi.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission for both permanent and temporary exhibitions 15/10zł, permanent alone 10/7zł, temporary exhibitions 5/3zł.

Thu free. U­Y 2 UL. ZĄBKOWSKA Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated than ulica Ząbkowska, the natural gravitational point for all the Boho and artistic types. Originally lined with timber frame houses, Ząbkowska experienced a fierce blaze in 1868 that led to wooden lodgings being replaced with tall tenements, all but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street hard, with Ząbkowska allowed to fall into such disrepair that plans for wholesale demolition were seriously considered. However it survived, and today restoration work has seen many of buildings returned to their former glory, or currently undergoing redevelopment, streets repaved and galleries opened. For some the very name Ząbkowska is synonymous with lively bars (W Oparach Absurdu, Łysy Pingwin etc.) filled with student revolutionaries.QJ‑3, ul.

Ząbkowska, MDworzec Wileński.

Praga District museum

ZOO

© agnieszkalll / dollarphotoclub

If the bears piqued your interest in animals then head to the nearby Warsaw Zoo, which was opened in 1928 and covers an area of 40 hectares. More than 500 species (over 12,700 animals) call it home and that includes all the biggies you’d expect: lions, gorillas, giraffes and elephants to name a few. As with every major Warsaw landmark, the zoo has plenty of war stories. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild.

Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during the 1944 Uprising, Żabiński helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo. The zoo officially re-opened in 1949.QH‑3, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. 1 Feb - 28 Feb: Open 09:00 - 16:00, Last entrance 1 hour before closing.

Admission 20/15zł. Family tickets available.

GETTING TO PRAGA

BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT: By far the easiest way to get to Praga is to take the M2 Metro to the end of the line (Dworzec Wileński), and you’re in the heart of the district. From Warszawa Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the river and drop you at the Park Praski stop, a great place to begin your tour of Praga (you can nod at the bears as you disembark). If you’re in the Old Town simply walk down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarności and the Stare Miasto bus stop and buses 160, 190 and 527 head over the river to Park Praski as well. These same buses will return you to Stare Miasto as well. Trams 23 and 26 will get you to Praga and back from the Old Town area.

BY TAXI: You can also take a taxi which should cost around 20-30zł and should take you from the centre area to Ząbkowska in less than 20 minutes. Please remember that the price and time depends on the traffic, so your journey may be longer during rush hours.QI‑3. warsaw.inyourpocket.com 51

Praga WARSAW STREET MURALS

‘Fight Club’ by Conor Harrington on ul. Środkowa 17.

Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with large-scale Polish advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality. With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would have a penchant for street graphics as well. And they do. In Warsaw street art has seen a tidal wave of popularity, and in the last few years new street murals have become a common sight around town. In fact, the emergence of street art as a growing and legitimised artistic discipline has created an interesting dichotomy in Warsaw’s urban landscape between both sanctioned and unsanctioned works of ‘graffiti art’ and the prolific gang signs, slurs and football-related graffiti that city paint crews have targeted in their war on ‘vandalism.’

Each year the Street Art Doping Festival invites top international street artists like BLU, ROA and DALeast, to leave their large scale marks around town.

Examples of some great murals can be seen at ul.

Racławicka 17 (F-15), ul. Rakowiecka 2C (G-13) and ul. Bliska 23 (in Praga Południe) respectively, also, if you stick to the length of ul. Stalowa (J-2/K-1), to your left and right, you’ll frequently see murals. Home-grown work can also be seen all around the city, with the more down at heel districts of Praga and Wola being particularly well represented. Keep your eyes open for works by local Varsovian artists NeSpoon, SC Szyman and Simpson, who have all added their creativity on many of Warsaw’s buildings, walls and pillar boxes, rivalling what other cities like Berlin have to offer.

Be quick to check out some murals - one of our favourite murals of a castle in the sky, once located on ul. Mińska 12 (Praga Południe) is no more - gone with the building it was painted on!

At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have little trouble tracking it down in Warsaw, and we’re making it even easier. On the maps in the back of our print guide we’ve marked street art locations with a spray can symbol , so you can literally use them to give yourself a tour of Warsaw’s urban art. We’ve also put it all online with GPS coordinates at inyourpocket. com/warsaw/street-art so that your smartphone can do the work for you. We encourage you to do just that, and check out some of Warsaw’s alternative art.

52 Warsaw In Your Pocket

3 PRAGA KONESER CENTER Located in what was once the legendary Koneser Vodka Factory, which produced the spirit from 1897-2007, the area is huge, and for a long time lay almost derelict, with exception of becoming an artistic hangout for a few years with bars and clubs. A few years ago, the plans to redevelop this space began, and finally in 2018, the revamped Polish Vodka Museum reopened, a touching nod to the site’s former role, the first building in the huge complex which consists of 18 buildings over 5ha, now includes bars, museums, apartments, office and commercial spaces, and even the Warsaw Headquarters of uncle Google (he knows everything!). The old brick buildings have been scrubbed up nicely, and mix well amongst a collection of modern architecture. A visit to this site is well worth your time, not least to learn about the history of Polish vodka, the site itself, and its importance to the district of Praga.QK‑2, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, www.koneser.eu.

4 POLISH VODKA MUSEUM The site of a former Vodka factory, closed in 2007 and now restored to become one of the beacons of the newly renovated Praga Koneser Centre. We at IYP have been swept off our feet by Polish vodka (not in that way!), due to its fascinating history and variety, and now, we feel it our duty to enlighten all who visit the country about the fascinating details and metamorphosis of the drink which has for a long time suffered an image problem, associated with... umm...getting hammered. The museum is a multimedia filled experience, taking you from the early beginnings to modern day production methods. Along the way, you will see a variety of really old vodka bottles, be treated to a vodka tasting, and afterwards, have the opportunity to buy some classy gifts. The museum is a celebration of the wonderful spirit, so deeply tied to Polish history itself.

Tours start every 20 mins and provided in English (French, German, Russian and Spanish available when booking in advance). Please note, those under 18 are allowed to visit provided they are accompanied by an adult! A visit here is a must.QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 1, MDzworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 50, www.muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl.

Open 11:00 - 20:00. Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. Admission 40zł.

L­6 5 SOHO FACTORY Across all of Poland, the trend for turning old industrial spaces into cultural hubs is progressing well, and why should Warsaw be any different, huh? The 8ha of Soho Factory is now firmly set as a cultural venue mixed with a collection of designer shops, office spaces and restaurants. Post-industrial chique certainly sums up this part of town well. The crowning glory of the site is no doubt the illuminating (non pun intended) Neon Museum, bringing together Communist-era Poland’s many neon signs which were for a long time associated with bad times and thrown on the rubbish heap until they were collected by passionate curators of the museum.

QM‑4, ul. Mińska 25, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 22 323 19 00, www.sohofactory.pl.

Praga

Neon Museum in Soho Factory

Ilona Karwińska

6 PGE NATIONAL STADIUM Officially opened on January 29th, 2012, PGE Narodowy can hold 58,000 fans. The construction, was built using hundreds of 45m support pillars driven into the ground to stabilise the 25m of war rubble the stadium finds itself atop. Priced at 1.2 billion PLN, history buffs will note that the Socialist era ‘Relay’ statue at the entrance has been preserved in a nod to the site’s past heritage – it was here that Stadion Dziesięciolecia (10th Anniversary Stadium) stood, built in the 1950s to mark the anniversary of the end of WWII. This was also the site where, on September 8, 1968, in front of 100,000 people, Ryszard Siwiec set himself alight in protest of the Soviet-led invasion of Czechoslovakia.

Today, Warsaw’s National Stadium is an exceptional place to watch football, or the mega-concerts frequently held here.

English tours conducted 3 times a day during the week at 12:00, 14:00 and 17:00, once a day on Sat/Sun at 14:30. All tour info can be found on their website https://wycieczki. pgenarodowy.pl.QK‑6, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 22 295 90 00, www. pgenarodowy.pl. Y 7 SASKA KĘPA - UL. FRANCUSKA This is one of the most desirable districts of Warsaw; with property prices staunchly high, the neighbourhood has become home to the nouveaux riche, the intelligentsia and much of the capital’s art community. Now living in the shadow of the National Stadium, the sporting complex has actually played a major role in bringing sports fans, arena rock fans and other new visitors to the area. The focal point of the area is ul. Francuska, with its host of trendy bars, cafes, restaurants (including the fantastic Dom Polski, p.92) and mix of boutique and old-school shops - Saska Kępa is is as close as Warsaw gets to some of the ‘Little Village’ areas of London or Paris. As such it’s a great place to just wander around, people watch or marvel at the hotchpotch of architectural styles - including majestic 19th century manor houses, some superb examples of 1920s and ‘30s modernism, Cold War tower blocks and brand new ultra-modern developments.QL‑6/7/8, ul. Francuska, MDworzec Wileński.

warsaw.inyourpocket.com 53

Jewish Warsaw enough and as the noose tightened, starvation became the principal enemy. In 1941 over 100,000 died this way, their bodies often left to rot in the streets. Of the 800 ghettos scattered around the Third Reich, Warsaw was the largest and also the deadliest. At its zenith approximately 380,000 residents found themselves squashed into the ghetto, with an average of eight people to a room. Yet amid this sea of suffering a remarkable social scene flourished, as proved by the meticulous ghetto diaries kept by Emanuel Ringelblum. Although murdered by the Nazis in 1944, Ringelblum, an intellectual and social activist, kept volumes of notes documenting the day-to-day life of ghetto inhabitants. It is from his painstaking notes we learn of the soup kitchens and charities that existed, of the musical concerts and cabarets and the fifty or so underground newspapers that circulated.

One of the amazing exhibits in Polin (p.55)

At the time Hitler chose to expand Germany’s territories under the odious excuse of providing ‘living space’ for the German people, Warsaw’s Jewish population numbered 350,000 and growing. Neither pogroms nor the occasional boycott of Jewish businesses deterred Jews from settling in the Polish capital and only New York could boast a larger Jewish community. Yet within six years Warsaw’s thriving Jewish scene was all but wiped out, with over 90 percent perishing either in the Warsaw Ghetto or the gas chambers of Treblinka.

Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare, Poland was seen as a relative safe haven, and it drew settlers forced into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war years the Jewish population had made significant contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland. When Warsaw fell following a brief yet brutal siege the city’s ancient Jewish population was damned to destruction. By 1940 Jews were forcibly penned into an area that already housed most of the Jewish population. On March 27, 1940, the Judenrat - a Jewish council answerable to the Nazi’s whims, was ordered to build a wall around the ghetto and a resettlement deadline of October 15 was handed to the city’s Jews. Failure to move into the assigned area was punishable by death. Spanning 18km and enclosing 73 of Warsaw’s 1,800 streets, the area was carved into a ‘small’ and ‘large’ ghetto, both linked by a wooden bridge (p.56) standing over ul. Chłodna.

From the beginning, conditions in the Warsaw Ghetto were harsh; recovered Nazi files show that while ethnic Germans in Warsaw were granted a food allowance totaling 2,613 calories per day, Jews and other groups deemed ‘sub-human’ were expected to survive on 184 calories. Unsurprisingly a black market supported by a smuggling network ran rife, with some 80% of the food in the ghetto supplied through illegal means. Still it was not 54 Warsaw In Your Pocket

The illusion of a self-contained, cruel, but surviving parallel world was shattered in 1942 when the Wansee Conference rubber-stamped plans for the ‘final solution to the Jewish question’ and the first deportations to death camps began in July. Over the next few weeks around 265,000 Jews were harried to a waiting area known as Umschlagplatz (p.57), from which they were loaded into cattle wagons destined for the Treblinka gas chambers.

For too long the Jews had been limited to passive resistance, but now, with rumours circulating about death camps, a band of ill-equipped insurgents faced up to the full weight of the Nazi military machine. The Ghetto Uprising (p.56) began on April 19, 1943. Numbering a few hundred the Jewish fighters continued their resistance, but faced with superior weaponry, it was a doomed struggle. By May 16 the Uprising was over, the rest of the ghetto was levelled, and its inmates deported.

It is estimated that some 15,000 Jews survived the war hiding out on the Aryan side. Today, Warsaw’s Jewish population is estimated to stand only around 2,000, however, efforts have been put into honouring the city’s Jewish heritage and reintroducing Jewish culture - most notably the opening of the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews in 2014. Here we list some places worth visiting.

JEWISH HISTORICAL INSTITUTE A chilling recollection of Polish Jewry and one of the few institutions in Poland focusing entirely on the study of the history and culture of the Polish Jews (Polin now being the best known). This amazing building (which survived the war, but still bears the scars) houses exhibits relating to secular and religious Jewish life in the country from its beginnings to the annihilation during WWII and beyond.

As well as an excellent bookshop, the institute’s museum, opened in 1948, features temporary exhibitions (‘Free as a Bird’ until 24 March) and a particularly moving permanent exhibition titled ‘What we were unable to shout out to the world’, dedicated to the underground archive of the Warsaw Ghetto and its creators, the Oneg Shabbat group, telling the struggles of those who experienced the

Jewish Warsaw holocaust, but ultimately knew they may perish. This is their record. A must see.QE‑5, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Tickets only purchaseable on their website (above). Admission 12/7zł. Sun free. ENG Guided tours cost 30zł, PL 20zł, and are twice a day: ENG tour at 11:00 and PL tour at 14:00.

NOŻYK SYNAGOGUE Built between 1898 and 1902 in a neo-Romanesque style, this was the only Warsaw synagogue to survive the ravages of war. It was fully restored between 1977 and 1983, and is still used by Warsaw’s Jewish community today. You can visit Mon-Thu & Sun from 09:00- 1 hour before sunset and on Friday until sunset.QE‑7, ul. Twarda 6, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 502 40 08 49, www.warszawa.jewish.org.pl.

Admission 10zł. N OKOPOWA STREET JEWISH CEMETERY A beautiful and poignant place to visit. The cemetery was originally founded in 1806 and currently houses around 250,000 tombs. Amongst those buried here are Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto.QB‑5, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.cemetery.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission 10zł. N PLAC GRZYBOWSKI This delightful square connects the city’s past to its present and unites the worlds of commerce, religion, entertainment and art. The main attraction of the square is the large 19th century Renaissance All Saints’ Church that stands at one end. The church was heavily damaged during the start of WWII and later in 1941 was inside the Warsaw Ghetto.

During the first year of the Ghetto it remained operational and served the Christian Jews who lived within the Ghetto wall. The Parish Priest Fr. Monsignor Marceli Godlewski actually helped to house Jews in the parish rectory and even assisted several Jews to escape the Ghetto entirely.

The church was almost destroyed again during the Warsaw Uprising. It was eventually rebuilt after the war only to be surrounded by tall buildings on almost all sides.

This was more an ideological move than an architectural one as the Communist regime attempted to hide the iconic church and diminish its power. Hence the triangular square’s exceedingly eclectic architecture. The square was totally renovated and features dozens of benches, neatly landscaped grassy areas and a pond with a waterfall.

Joining the square is ul. Próżna, the only full street that survived the Jewish Ghetto. For a long time, it remained derelict, a window onto the past, however, in recent years, one side was restored to its pre-war splendour, while the second side awaits revival. It is here, that the former heart of the Jewish area of Warsaw undergoes a mini-revival in the form of the Singer Jewish Culture Festival, which has taken place every year in late August/early September since 2004.QE‑7, MŚwiętokrzyska.

POLIN

POLIN MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY OF POLISH JEWS A millennium of Polish Jewish history is explained in this excellent museum which opened in 2014 and won the prestigious award for European Museum of the Year in 2016! Located in the Muranów district, this is where the Warsaw Ghetto stood during World War II. The building is a stunning copper and glass structure designed by Finnish architect Rainer Mahlamäki. Each of the eight galleries addresses a different era in the long history of the Jewish people beginning in the forests of Poland of King Mieszko I (960-992), where legend has it the first Jews settled. The exhibition goes on to chart periods where Jews enjoyed social and religious freedoms and protection not bestowed upon them elsewhere in Europe, to the calamitous events of the 20th century. Covering over 4,000m2, the exhibition is well laid out and includes clear English descriptions. We recommend taking one of the audio guides, or join one of the regular guided tours. While the period of the Holocaust is described very well, for the most part the museum’s permanent exhibition is a celebration of a thousand years of Jewish life in Poland.

Give yourself a few hours to be able to fully explore the various galleries.

The museum is also home to a canteen-style kosher restaurant, a café and a Resource Center that features a specialist library dedicated to the history, culture and religion of Polish Jews. POLIN is extremely active with a rich cultural program, temporary exhibitions, concerts, debates, films, lectures and workshops and is helping to promote a new positive dialogue in Poland.

Until 01 July 2019, a temporary exhibition titled “In King Matt’s Poland. The 100th Anniversary of Regaining Independence” is available as an educational family experience, open daily 15:00-18:00 and 11:00-18:00 at weekends (closed Tuesday).QD‑4, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, www. polin.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Sat, Sun 10:00 20:00. Closed Tue. Permanent exhibition: 25/15zł, Temporary exhibition: 12/8zł and combined ticket for 30/20zł. Thu free. All tickets can be purchased on www.bilety.polin.pl. U­Y warsaw.inyourpocket.com 55

Jewish Warsaw during World War II

German troops on patrol in the ghetto as buildings burn. | National Archives and Records Administration

The Warsaw Ghetto Uprising of 1943 has gone down in history as a noble act of defiance and protest against the inaction of the world in helping the Jewish people in their plight during the Second World War. Following years of torment and persecution, and vastly outmatched by the superior numbers and weaponry of the German war machine, the forced inhabitants of the Warsaw Jewish Ghetto realised they had a stark, but simple choice: die quietly in the extermination camps of the Nazis, or defy this barbaric system and die fighting. On April 19, 1943 they chose the latter and instigated a brave but inevitably doomed insurrection that would last until May 16.

In 1942 there came a tipping point in the until-then passive resistance of the Jewish people, as they were moved from ghetto to ghetto, camp to camp. Some believed resettlement was taking place, others that they were a necessary labour force for the German war effort, while others simply accepted they could do nothing to get away.

By now word was spreading, initially through rumours, then from witness accounts, that Jews were being exterminated in Nazi death camps. Between July and September of 1942 alone, around 280,000 Jews were deported from the Warsaw Ghetto to Treblinka extermination camp, another 11,000 were sent to labour camps, and around 10,000 were killed in the Ghetto itself during the deportations.

On July 28, 1942, amidst deportations, members of Jewish youth organisations formed the Jewish Fighting Organisation (ŻOB - Żydowska Organizacja Bojowa), with a young Mordechai Anielewicz appointed as its leader.

The first act of defiance actually took place on January 18, 1943, prior to the Uprising itself, which saw fighters armed with pistols infiltrate a column of Jews being marched to the Umschlagplatz by German escorts.

They attacked the Germans, allowing those assembled to scatter and preventing 3,000 of the planned 8,000 from being deported as the Germans suspended deportations until further notice. There now remained 56 Warsaw In Your Pocket

about 50,000 Jews in the ghetto. Knowing what was to come, they began to build bunkers wherever they could.

The fighters were buoyed by the apparent success of the January action, however, the Germans came much better prepared with tanks, heavy artillery and the intention of liquidating the Ghetto entirely on April 19, 1943. Despite this the Nazis received a nasty surprise as they entered the Ghetto to find the streets deserted (with everyone hiding in bunkers) and themselves under attack from about 700 Jewish fighters armed with pistols, grenades, petrol bombs and some automatic weapons and rifles. The Germans were stunned on the first day of fighting, losing 12 men while the rest were forced to retreat from the Ghetto.

Though the Germans returned and quickly broke the military organisation of the Jewish fighters using heavy artillery and even Stuka dive bombers, pockets of dogged resistance couldn’t be easily dealt with. Vicious street-to-street, houseto-house battles ensued, with insurgents often burnt out of their boltholes by flamethrowers and gas. On May 8, German forces surrounded the principal command post of the rebels at ul. Miła 18, where Anielewicz and his cabal opted for mass suicide rather than surrender. By May 16 the cause was lost and the Uprising was over. It is estimated that 7,000 Jews and roughly 300 Germans were killed during the conflict. Approximately 42,000 Jews remaining in the Ghetto were captured and sent to Treblinka, Majdanek or Gęsiówka (ul. Gęsia) - a small concentration camp nearby.

Despite the end of armed resistance, the Germans proceeded to level the Ghetto, with German commander Jurgen Stroop announcing, “The former Jewish Quarter of Warsaw is no longer in existence.” This area, which primarily consisted of the Mirów and Muranów districts, plus parts of the city centre, accounted for an incredible 1/3 of the territory of the city of Warsaw. Despite the wholesale destruction, small traces of the Ghetto remain today, including fragments of the Ghetto wall.

Jewish Warsaw during World War II A FOOTBRIDGE OF MEMORY One of the most enduring images of the Warsaw Ghetto is that of the footbridge constructed over ul. Chłodna to connect the large and small Ghettos. Commemorating this today is a pair of metal poles connected via optical fibres which, after the sun sets, project the shape of the footbridge over the road via light. Designed by Tomasz de TuschLec and installed in 2011, the memorial also has viewing windows inside the poles where visitors can flip through images of life in the Warsaw Ghetto. By now you’ve also probably noticed the pavement outline that symbolises the Ghetto’s borders, which can be found on the sidewalk as you tromp down ul. Chłodna.QC‑6, Intersection of ul.

Chłodna and ul. Żelazna, MRondo ONZ.

MIŁA 18 BUNKER A grass mound and monument now marks the spot from where the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising was lead by the Jewish Combat Organisation, and where many of its fighters, including commander-in-chief Mordechai Anielewicz, are buried. Three weeks after the start of the Uprising, the bunker was discovered by the Nazis on May 08, who used tear gas to try and force the command out. Though some were able to escape, the majority chose to ingest poison rather than surrender. Their bodies were never exhumed after 1945 and the site became a war memorial. Located on the corner of ul. Miła 2 and ul. Dubois, due to post-war changes in Warsaw’s urban landscape the site no longer bears the address ‘Miła 18.’QD‑3, ul. Miła 2.

GHETTO HEROES MONUMENT In the middle of a large, attractive square beside the POLIN Museum, you’ll find the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes, which commemorates the first Warsaw Ghetto Uprising of 1943. Designed by Leon Suzin and sculpted by Nathan Rapoport in 1948, close by stands an earlier memorial tablet to the Ghetto Heroes, also by Suzin, which was unveiled in 1946. Interestingly, stone used in the monument had been brought to Warsaw by the Nazis and was to be used in architectural projects planned for a new Warsaw by Hitler’s architect, Albert Speer. In the square, you’ll also find a statue of Jan Karski, a Polish resistance fighter famed for informing the allies about the existence of Nazi death camps and the systematic destruction of the Warsaw Ghetto.QD‑4, ul.

Zamenhofa, MRatusz Arsenał.

MEMORIAL TO THE EVACUATION OF WARSAW GHETTO FIGHTERS Unveiled in 2010, this monument is located right next to the sewer entrance where a group of about 50 fighters from the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising escaped on May 10, 1943. On May 1, Symcha Ratajzer-Rotem (codename ‘Kazik’) was ordered by the leaders of the Jewish Combat Organisation to get to the ‘Aryan’ side of the wall and make contact with one of the Uprising’s leaders, Yitzhak Zuckerman, who would help in evacuating fighters from the Ghetto. Kazik returned on the night of May 8 to aid the escape of fighters from the bunker HQ at ul. Miła 18. The escape could not happen immediately, but on May 10 many of the fighters exited the sewer here and went straight into a waiting truck which took them to the outskirts of Warsaw. Most of the fighters would later go on to fight in the Warsaw Uprising of 1944 in the ranks of the partisan People’s Army (Armia Ludowa).

Some of those to escape the Ghetto on this day were Cywia Lubetkin, Tosia Altman, Michał Rozenfeld and Marek Edelman.QC‑8, ul. Prosta 51, MRondo Daszyńskiego.

JEWISH GHETTO WALL FRAGMENT Following the Ghetto Uprising the whole area was levelled so few traces remain. If you duck into the courtyard at ul.

Sienna 55 (or from ul. Złota 62) you will see a remaining part of the ghetto wall complete with a commemorative plaque. Somewhat impressively, the local government have decided to honour Warsaw’s Holocaust history by introducing a ‘Ghetto Trail.’ Developed with the help of the Jewish Historical Institute the route has seen the boundary of the former Warsaw Ghetto outlined on pavements, as well as the appearance of 21 dual language information boards positioned in places of particular interest.QD‑8, ul.

Sienna 55, MRondo ONZ.

ul. Waliców 14 - Ghetto Remnant

RUINS OF THE RISING Between 1939 and 1944 85% of the left-bank of Warsaw was completely destroyed, with the city centre bearing the brunt of the damage. In spite of the herculean rebuilding work that has since taken place, bullet scarred walls on prewar tenements can still be found in relative abundance in the few parts of the centre that escaped total destruction.

Perhaps most obvious of all is the building at ul. Waliców 14, which was part of the Warsaw Ghetto, featuring shellpocked facades and a wall half-tumbling down. Amazingly, this building survived the invasion of September 1939, The Warsaw Ghetto Uprising of 1943 and the Warsaw Uprising of 1944. Directly across the street from the building is one of the few remaining pieces of the Ghetto wall, marked by a plaque.QD‑7, ul. Waliców 14, MRondo ONZ. UMSCHLAGPLATZ Found on ul. Stawki, close to the intersection with ul. Dzika, Umschlagplatz is a bleak, slightly disappointing monument marking the spot where around 300,000 Jews were loaded on cattle wagons bound for Treblinka. The Nazi commandant in charge of the deportations lived directly opposite on ul. Stawki 5/7.QC‑3, MDworzec Gdański. warsaw.inyourpocket.com 57

Warsaw Uprising

The wartime resistance symbol ‘Polska Walcząca’ (Poland is fighting).

Photo: Mat Fahrenholz

Considering the epic scale of the bloodshed, and how brutal Hitler’s tactics were in subjugating and eliminating each and every ethnic group, it’s little surprise Poland gave birth to Europe’s largest resistance movement. By July 1944 the Red Army led by Marshal Rokossovsky had reached the Wisła, and on July 22 Nazi Governor of Warsaw Ludwig Fischer ordered the evacuation of German civilians from Warsaw; sensitive papers were torched and destroyed, trains screeched westwards and all the signs suggested liberation was but days away. German intelligence was aware that an uprising was possible, yet nothing seemed clear cut. Fischer’s appeals for 100,000 Poles to present themselves to work on anti-tank defences were ignored, as were broadcasts reminding the Poles of their heroic battle against Bolshevism in 1923. Tensions increased with Red Army leaflet drops urging Varsovians to arms, and were further exacerbated on July 30th with a Soviet radio announcement declaring, “People of the capital! To arms!

Strike at the Germans! May your million strong population become a million soldiers, who will drive out the German invaders and win freedom.” Still, like boxers prowling the ring, each side appeared locked in a waiting game, so much so that German military dispatches on the afternoon of August 1, 1944 concluded with, “Warschau ist kalm.”

Warsaw was anything but.

On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski 5pm signalled W-Hour (‘Wybuch’ standing for outbreak), the precise time when some 40,000 members of the Home Army would attack key German positions. Warsaw at the time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any numerical supremacy the Poles could count on was offset by a chronic lack of weapons. Nonetheless the element of surprise caught the Germans off guard, and in spite of heavy losses the Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the Old Town, Prudential Tower (then the tallest building in Poland), and the post office. The first day cost the lives of 2,000 Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag fluttered once more over the capital. Hitler, meanwhile, was roused out of his torpor, screaming for “No prisoners to be taken,” and “Every inhabitant to be shot.”

58 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Within days German reinforcements started pouring in, and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. It was to prove a mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, behind the barricades, cultural life thrived – over 130 newspapers sprang up, religious services were celebrated and a scoutrun postal service was introduced. Better still, the first allied airdrops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under the command of Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks.

Even worse, the practice of using Polish women as human shields was quickly introduced.

The insurgents were a mixed bag, featuring over 4,000 women in their ranks, a unit of Slovaks, scores of Jews liberated from a Warsaw concentration camp, a platoon of deaf and dumb volunteers led by an officer called Yo Yo, and an escaped English prisoner of war called John.

Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on their side was an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance.

Airdrops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate – one such mission concluding with 960 canisters out of a 1,000 falling into German hands. All hopes, it seemed, rested on the Russians.

After six weeks of inaction Rokossovsky finally gave the go-ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the river and relieve the insurgents. The operation was a debacle, with heavy casualties and no headway made.

Fighters help a wounded colleague

© J. P. Tennenbaum

Warsaw Uprising For the Russians, this single attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaw’s Old Town, defended by 8,000 Poles, had become untenable, and a daring escape route was hatched through the sewers running under the city.

The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken with glee and armour. 600mm shells were landing on the centre 8 minutes, and casualties were rising to alarming rates.

Surrender negotiations were initiated in early September, though it wasn’t till the end of the month that they took a concrete shape. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were forced to capitulate, some 63 days after they had taken on the Reich. “The battle is finished,” wrote a eulogy in the final edition of the Information Bulletin. “From the blood that has been shed, from the common toil and misery, from the pains of our bodies and souls, a new Poland will arise – free.”

THE AFTERMATH Having deposited their weaponry at pre-designated sites, 11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity.

The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Hitler was ecstatic; with the Uprising over, his plan to raze Warsaw could finally be realised. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city. “No stone can remain standing,” warned Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings of importance to Polish culture were dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas were simply burned to the ground. “I have seen many towns destroyed,” exclaimed General Eisenhower after the war, “But nowhere have I been faced with such destruction.”

Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around $54bn. In human terms Poland lost much more.

With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very foundation a new post-war Poland could build on. Those veterans who survived were treated with suspicion and disdain by the newly installed communist government, others were persecuted for perceived western sympathies.

Post-war Soviet show trials convicted 13 leaders of the Uprising for anti-Soviet actions, and thereafter the Uprising was condemned as a folly to serve the bourgeois ends of the Polish government-in-exile.

WHAT TO SEE MONUMENT TO THE WARSAW UPRISING It was only with the regime close to collapse that this unconventional, not to say controversial monument was unveiled. Completed in 1989 and designed by Wincenty Kućma, it depicts a group of insurgents in battle, and another faction retreating into the sewers.QE‑4, Pl. Krasińskich, MRatusz Arsenał.

UPRISING MUSEUM

Opened in 2004, this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with interactive displays, photographs, video footage and miscellaneous exhibits it’s a museum that’s guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram power station the 2,000m2 space is split over several levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of the Uprising (provided they don’t make any wrong turns, alas, a common mistake).

Start off by learning about life under Nazi rule, your tour accompanied by the background rattle of machine guns, dive bombers and a thumping heartbeat. Different halls focus on the many aspects of the Uprising; walk through a replica radio station, or a covert printing press.

The mezzanine level features film detailing the first month of battle, before which visitors get to clamber through a mock sewer. The final sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant display about the destruction of the city; take time to watch the black and white ‘before and after’ shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Nazis as punishment.

Near the exit check out the film “City of Ruins,” a silenceinducing 5 minute 3-D aerial ‘film’ which took 2 years to make and used old pictures and new technology to recreate a picture of the desolation of ‘liberated’ Warsaw in March 1945.

There is also an exact replica of a B24 Allied plane once used to make supply drops over the besieged city. A viewing platform (open weather permitting) and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this high impact experience. FYI: There are new QR-code triggered videos for the hearing impaired at every exhibition.QB‑7, ul. Grzybowska 79, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 539 79 05, www.1944.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.

Closed Tue. Admission 25/20zł (children under 7 free). Sun free. Audioguides for 10zł per person. U warsaw.inyourpocket.com 59

Communist Warsaw Walking Tour

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Communist Warsaw Walking Tour The concept of ‘judging by first impressions’ has never been a favourable one to Warsaw, but to anyone that knows you should never judge a book by its cover, the city can surprise and warm even the coldest of hearts! But lets take the first concept at face value – you arrive in Warsaw’s city centre and what do you see? Grey buildings... a lot of grey buildings! True, there are old buildings, modern soulless glass structures here and there, but it’s undeniable that grey still dominates. So why is this? Well, it’s simple - war.

Warsaw experienced an invasion in 1939, a Ghetto Uprising in 1943 and finally, the Warsaw Uprising of 1944 and subsequent German destruction of all buildings culturally important to Poles. After the war, the city was in ruins, the Communists were in power, and when it came to rebuilding, their architecutral style ruled the day, and that’s why Warsaw looks the way it does. Grey, but beautiful!

WALKING TOUR We have chosen for you the easiest and most logical route to take in the most important locations showing the rise of Communism, and its architectural style, in Poland. The route works well in terms of chronological order and ends nicely smack bang in the city centre, from where you can make your way to your next desitination with realtive ease.

Should you choose to do so, you can do the tour in reverse order. The total length of the route is only 3 kilometres, but if you get tired during the tour, you will always be a short distance from any public transportation stop. To begin the tour, head to the Charles de Gaulle Monument across from the Palm Tree on the corner of ul. Nowy Świat and Aleje Jerozolimskie (H-8).

1 CENTRAL COMMITTEE OF THE POLISH UNITED WORKERS’ PARTY The name of this building was once long, don’t you think?

Unnecessarily long, intended to be imposing as well as informative, we suppose. Building began on the HQ for what was once Poland’s dominant Communist Party, the PZPR (Polish United Workers’ Party), in 1948. It was completed in 1952, and was used by the party right up until 1990 and the fall of the People’s Republic of Poland (PRL). Thanks in no small part to a heavy dose of irony, after the fall of Communism it functioned as the Warsaw Stock Exchange until 2001. Following this jibe at Communism, it was kicked while it was down and later became the Centre for Banking and Finance, which still functions here to this day. It also contains showrooms for luxurious cars, and also some trendy bars. Ouch.

But anyway, we’ve had our little giggle at the Capitalism v. Communism tussle, now onto the serious stuff. As you may know, after World War 2, Poland was in the process of rebuilding, but at the same time, Moscow’s grip on the country grew ever stronger, especially betweewn 194548. Houses were gradually being rebuilt, and people were trying to put their lives back together, but at the same time, pieces of socialist realist architecture began to appear in Warsaw - a real sign of the changing political landscape.

The Communist Party HQ was one of the first to be built.

Interestingly, construction was officially said to have been funded by the members of PZPR, but the reality is that the public purse financed it, along with a scheme for people to ‘willingly’ buy symbolic bricks (something people were forced to do!) as donations to aid the construction of this building and Poland’s rebuilding process as a whole.

Indeed, Warsaw’s other famous Communist relic, the Palace of Culture and Science (PKiN) also benefited from this scheme. A little nugget for you - granite from the Tannenberg Memorial (formerly in Prussian Hohenstein, now modern day Olsztynek) was used here as building material. The Tannenberg Memorial was built in 1924-27 to commemorate German soldiers on the 10th anniversary of the second Battle of Tannenberg against Imperial Russia.

Following his death in 1934, President of the German Reich, Paul Von Hindenburg was interned here until Nazi troops removed his remains as the Soviet Army advanced into Prussia in 1945. The structure was destroyed with demolition charges during a hasty retreat. The job was completed by Polish authorities in 1949 and part of what was left was carted to Warsaw.

Now, think of the importance this building once held as the place where the ruling party made all of their major decisions, or more to the point, where political puppets rubber stamped decisions already largely made by Moscow.

It was to continue this way until the fall of Communism. In 2009, the building was registered as a listed monument, and though it doesn’t function as a tourist attraction, it’s still worth a visit to walk around and get a feel for the system, and architectural style, that once dominated Poland for so long. Go back now to the Charless de Gaulle monument, cross ul. Nowy Świat, head left and continue for a short walk until you reach your first right. Walk to the end of this small street.QH‑8, ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, MCentrum.

2 FREE SPEECH MEMORIAL The Free Speech Memorial found on ul. Mysia is right in front of what is a modern day governmental building.

However, back in the days of Communist Poland (the PRL era), this used to be the main office of the Censorship Agency which controlled all media and information outlets across the country, from radio, TV and the press to even the nature of characters in books, and representations of the ideal family. Pure and simple, its mission was the control of the masses through propaganda. Censorship instructions were given just a stone’s throw away at the Communist Party HQ, naturally.

The design and meaning of the memorial is quite fitting, and bridges the space between these two locations so deeply rooted in the fabric of Communist Poland. The black strip symbolises the redaction markings made by censors. The redaction strip abruptly comes to an end near the former censorship office to symbolise the victory of free speech as the communist system crumbled.

The information board nearby depicts an example of censorship with its own blanked out text for you to decipher. For all tech geeks, the seats nearby contain QR codes which you can scan to play a game created by the project’s designers. Heading in the same direction you

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Communist Warsaw Walking Tour just walked, go along ul. Nowogrodzka until you reach ul. Krucza and turn left. Here you will see many examples of old ministerial buildings (still in use today) built in the socialist realist style between 1951-2. Of particular interest is the current day Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development on ul. Wspólna 30 with its fancy columns - serving no other purpose than to look impressive!

Continue along Krucza until you see the next stop of the tour, 3 Bar Bambino, a slightly more upmarket take on the old state subsidised Communist era eating dens known as ‘milk bars’, which acted as makeshift work canteens all over Poland. Cheap grub galore. Continue the same way until you reach ul. Piękna, turning right.QG‑8, ul. Mysia 2, MCentrum.

4 PLAC KONSTYTUCJI A wonderful spectacle of socialist realist architecture.

Designed by Jankowski, Knothe, Sigalin and Stępiński, Pl. Konstytucji was projected to be an ‘expression of creative optimism and peaceful work within the socialist system.’

Constructed between 1950-52, and officially christened on July 22, 1952, the square was originally intended to serve as a focal point for all state parades which would then go down ul. Marszałkowska to Plac Defilad (Parade Square) in front of The Palace of Culture and Science (PKiN). The reality of this plan was short-lived as this has been a car park since the 1960s. Lovely, huh?

Plac Konstytucji is quite an anomaly in the urban fabric of Warsaw, for it was the crowning glory of the project to build Marszałkowska Dzielnica Mieszkaniowa (MDM, the Marszałkowska Housing District). In a sea of devastation across the city, this area was the first housing district to be completed in the city; it was quite an achievement and heralded as a big success at the time. The square you see today didn’t exist before the war, but to accommodate the plans to provide a square for the people, buildings were flattened here (so too was the case on ul. Marszałkowska and PKiN). In fact, if you look at a map of the area today, you’ll notice that ul. Koszykowa - once one long continuous street - is now split by the square, with its two severed parts now lying in the north-west and south-east sections of Plac Konstytucji.

The square itself is dominated by three monumental street lamps looking like giant tridents, mosaics here and there, but things get even better along the tail end of Marszałkowska, leading to Plac Zbawiciela, where socialist reliefs of workers line the street. From here, walk straight down ul. Marszałkowska, taking in the architectural sights along the way.QG‑10, Pl. Konstytucji, MPolitechnika.

5 UL. MARSZAŁKOWSKA One of Warsaw’s main streets, measures 3580m running north-south from Plac Bankowy (next to Ratusz-Arsenał Metro station, E-5) right down to Plac Unii Lubelskiej (H12). The street was inaugurated in 1757 by the namesake of the street, Grand Marshal of the Crown Franciszek Bieliński. Back then the street was much shorter than its modern day version, running from ul. Widok to ul.

62 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Commie Puppet HQ

Królewska (the stretch currently between Metro Centrum and the start of Ogród Saski, F-6/8). The 19th century saw the street gradually become the heart of the city as the Warsaw-Vienna Railway Station was built nearby on Aleje Jerozolimskie in 1844-45. The latter half of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th heralded a plethora of ornate buildings being built along the street, with many cafes, restaurants, shops and cinemas being located here in the bustling heart of the city.

All looked well until the outbreak of World War II which inevitably led to damage and destruction, firstly during the initial invasion in September 1939 and more acutely during and after the Warsaw Uprising of 1944 (p.58). It’s estimated that 80% of the street was destroyed.

Following the war, a massive rebuilding plan began across Warsaw, and indeed, Poland as a whole. It may surprise many to know that despite wartime devastation, quite a handful of pre-war buildings on Marszałkowska survived the war, but they would later fall foul to the Communist’s plans to make the city centre look more Soviet. What you see today is the result of this plan, socialist realist architecture lining the majority of the street. This is most evident from the section that leads from the current day Plac Konstytucji (Constitution Square, built between 1950-52) to the city centre where the Palace of Culture and Science (PKiN, completed in 1955) now stands. In fact, it was due to the projects of creating a socialist realist city centre that the street itself was widened, partly to accommodate Communist parades that would lead from Plac Konstytucji right up to Plac Defilad (Parade Square) in front of PKiN. If the pre-war buildings stuck out too much in the street, away they went!

Across the street from PKiN, 6 The Eastern Wall, a collection of buildings and tower blocks, was built in 1962 as Soviet architects looked to the west for inspiration and ideas - the results often lead to brutalist monstrosities popping up like mushrooms. Today the street looks much the same as it has for a while now, but the Eastern Wall itself underwent renovation, and the famous Rotunda Bank building is currently in the process of being redeveloped.

Now for some sights of the city, enter PKiN at the entrance (facing ul. Marszałkowska).QE‑6/G‑11, ul. Marszałkowska, MCentrum.

Communist Warsaw Walking Tour 7 PALACE OF CULTURE & SCIENCE Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’ the 231 metre structure actually takes its inspiration from the capitalist world, namely the Empire State Building. Stalin had sent a secret delegation to New York to learn both about the building and American construction methods, though the outbreak of WWII meant that it wasn’t until 1952 that his architects were able to commence putting their knowledge into practice. Over 5,000 workers were ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a purpose-built village in Jelonki. Working around the clock, it took them just three years to complete the Palace. In all 16 died during the construction, though despite the Olympian efforts of the labourers Stalin never lived to see his pet project completed.

Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing 3,288 rooms the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just party headquarters but also ‘the people’s castle’, with invitations to the annual New Year’s Eve Ball issued to the best workers in socialist Poland. Regardless of this the building became an object of hatred and the palace was seen as no more than a symbol of Russian hegemony. Viewed from a distance – apparently it can be spotted from 30km away – the palace appears a faceless monolith. Viewed closely several intricate details appear in focus. Under Stalin’s orders architects travelled around Poland’s key cultural sights, from Wawel to Zamość, observing Polish architectural traditions, hence the numerous crenellations, courtyards and motifs.

Once inside the ground floor becomes a maze of halls and corridors. Brass chandeliers hang over clacking parquet flooring, secret lifts lie hidden around and allegorical socialist reliefs take inspiration from ancient mythology. The building boasts over 3,300 rooms most of which are conference facilities or offices. Besides the theatres, bars and museums on the ground level, visitors looking to further explore the building can take a tour of some of the conference and commercial spaces, but are best directed to the viewing terrace on the 30th floor (night viewings available Fri/Sat 20:00-23:00 Jul-Sep only). To get there you’ll need to buy a ticket, after which you’ll be shepherded into an old-style lift complete with

© Paweł Jagiełło

a lovely lift attendant who has probably been doing the job since the building opened. From the observation point, take a look around Warsaw, see the crazy mix of socialist realist housing blocks all over, from right in the city centre, to outer districts. And here ends our tour, however, should you wish to explore the topic further, here are some further recommendations for you to visit.

QE‑8, Pl. Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission for the viewing level is 20/15zł. You can purchase tickets online. U­Y SOVIET WAR CEMETERY Dominated by a huge needle-like monument this is one of the first Warsaw landmarks seen on the way from the airport. The towering monument was one of the first to be built in the city following the Second World War. It features some interesting socialist reliefs depicting Red Army troops liberating Polish civilians, and the inscription reads ‘To the memory of the soldiers lost in the liberation of Poland 1944-1945’. Mass graves containing the remains of 20,000 soldiers flank each side of the memorial.QC‑14, Al. Żwirki i Wigury 10, MPole Mokotowskie.

MUSEUM OF LIFE IN THE PRL If walking around Warsaw’s city centre and admiring the remnants of Poland’s Communist past is not enough for you, why not check out the ‘Museum of Life in the PRL’ museum in the centre? Started privately in 2014, this is not simply a museum that recollects facts and figures, it’s a unique place that shows what everyday life was like for people during the years of Poland’s Communist rule - which includes a mock up of a typical PRL era living room! An essential place to visit, especially for younger generations and those who have never lived under such a system! QM‑4, ul.

Piękna 28/34 (corner of Plac Konstytucji and ul.Piękna), MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 511 04 48 08, www. czarprl.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

Admission 8/5zł. Y

Free Speech Memorial and Censorship Office

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The shells of the once mighty Modlin Fortress are perfect for exploration, and in winter, they are steeped in a historical aura.

Further Afield There’s plenty to see and do in Warsaw, however, we understand that not all visitors are content with just visiting the capital and may wish to explore beyond the city limits. There’s something for everyone across the whole Mazovian region, and this section highlights some of the most interesting things to see and do, from visiting sites full of history, music, relaxation, and outdoor activities for those looking for something more fun-filled and leisurely!

64 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Further Afield FRYDERYK CHOPIN BIRTHPLACE & PARK IN ŻELAZOWA WOLA This museum celebrates both the Historical Birthplace of the composer and pays tribute to the dramatic history of the very museum itself. Half of the house has been filled with early 19th century keepsakes, instruments and paintings, and many visitors attest to the haunting spirit of Chopin that lingers. Another part of the house is decorated in pre-war 20th century decor and traces the transformation of the outbuildings into a world-class museum. Outside the impressively landscaped bucolic garden makes for a nice walk. As you walk around the gardens, there are craftily hidden speakers serenading you with Chopin’s music.

The museum and park are open 09:00-17:00 Oct-Mar. During winter, it’s best to check their website for availability of English tours (we recommended to buy tickets online). Żelazowa Wola is 54km west of Warsaw and can be reached in one hour by bus and train. The best way to get there is to go with a tour group (p.28) or get a Koleje Mazowieckie train (Route 3) from Warszawa Śródmieście train station to Sochaczew or a TLK train from Warszawa Centralna Train Station - once there, get ZKM bus no.6 which goes to Żelazowa Wola (bus no.1 to Kampinos also stops there).QŻelazowa Wola 15, tel. (+48) 46 863 33 00, www.chopin.museum/pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Museum closed Mon (park open). Admission 23/14zł for the museum and park, 7/4zł for the park only. Wed free. Y MODLIN FORTRESS Situated in the town of Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki, 30km north-west of Warsaw, the 19th century Modlin Fortress (Twierdza Modlin) is one of the longest buildings in Europe at 2,250m. It’s here at the meeting point of two rivers, the Narew and Vistula, in 1806 Napoleon ordered the creation of a defensive point (he is rumoured to have designed one of the first buildings). The complex was later expanded by Tsarist troops from 1880 onwards and the main fort became part of a larger defensive project, consisting of two defensive rings. The entire complex eventually became redundant as military technology and strategies evolved in the 20th century.

The fortress saw major action in the Battle of Modlin, during the 1939 Defensive War after Nazi Germany invaded Poland. 24,000 troops held out from 13-29 September and were one of the last to capitulate. Post-war, the fortress was used by the Polish military, but has now been sold to developers.

Despite this, parts of the fortress are still open to tourists.

Although entry onto the terrain is free, to explore certain areas, you must pay. You can visit the underground basements Sat/Sun 11:00-16:00 (5zł), the museum of the September campaign, open daily 10:00-17:00 (closed Mon), and finally, the viewing tower, open daily 10:0018:00 (10zł). The easiest way to get there is by Koleje Mazowieckie ‘RL’ train, which leave once an hour at 08:15 from Warsaw Central Train Station to Modlin, from where the fort is a 10 minute walk to the west along

Palmiry

© fotobroda, AdobeStock

the river. Please note: Winter opening times may vary, check website for details.Qul. gen. Józefa Bema 500, Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki, www.twierdzamodlin.pl.

PALMIRY NATIONAL MEMORIAL & MUSEUM This highly recommended museum in the forest outside Warsaw significantly ups the standard for how a small exhibit can pack a huge punch. A little history: during World War II the forests of Palmiry and Kampinos became a refuge for those fleeing the destruction in Warsaw (many Home Army soldiers regrouped in the woods). It also became the site for 21 separate mass executions performed by German soldiers against 1,700 Poles and Jews, many of whom were academic and cultural figures. Information boards clearly explain what happened in the forest and displays include exhumed items like documents and photos, even sections of trees with ammunition still buried in their bark. Outside visitors will see a giant cemetery of marked and unmarked crosses dedicated to the victims. While the museum is mainly dedicated to what happened here during World War II it also makes note of the fact that Poles have taken to these woods during the Kościuszko Uprising in 1794, the November Uprising in 1831 and the January Uprising in 1863.

Getting to the museum from Warsaw is fairly easy, though a little far. Take Metro M1 to Młociny Bus and Metro Station (end of the line) then catch bus no. 750, which will take you straight to ‘Łomna-Cmentarz’, then you’ll have to walk the final few hundred metres to the museum.

For this journey, you’ll need a zone 2/strefa 2 ticket.

Depending on the time of day (peak/off-peak), buses run every 30-60 minutes, there and back.QPalmiry, tel. (+48) 22 720 81 14, www.palmiry.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. AB EVEREST TRAVEL As well as dealing with airport transfers, AB Everest (p.13) also offer one day tours from Warsaw to popular destinations across Poland, which include: Auschwitz and Kraków, Wieliczka Salt Mine, Hitler’s former Wolf’s Lair, Białowieża National Park, Toruń and Warsaw Outskirts Tour, to name a few.Qul. Obrońców Tobruku 18, tel. (+48) 722 26 17 31, www.abeverest.pl. warsaw.inyourpocket.com 65

Łódź WHAT TO SEE How many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself ‘More than a shopping centre?’With Manufaktura, for once the hype is entirely justified. It is the largest shopping and entertainment development in Central Europe covering a space of 150,000m2, ranking as one of the most impressive urban regeneration projects anywhere, and its success has inspired further bold urban planning projects that have given the city a certain swagger.

Piotrkowska - Europe's longest street!

For many newcomers and tourists alike, Łódź is an anomaly in many ways. Though you may not have the first clue how to pronounce it (think of it as “Woodge”), Łódź has emerged as one of Poland’s most exciting young cities. It may not possess the postcard panoramas and historical charisma of Prague and Kraków, post-industrial Łódź has garnered much praise for its fantastic film pedigree and dynamic cultural calendar, the longest pedestrian high street in Europe, and some of the country’s finest afterdark venues. Economically and architecturally it is often compared with other post-industrial revitalisation success stories, such as Manchester and Rotterdam. This is all well and good, however Łódź remains impenetrable to many would-be visitors. Some basic information is needed before one can thrust oneself headlong into the all-night industrial warehouse parties and cut up the red carpet at film premieres.

Today, Łódź remains an important cog in the Polish wheel.

Derelict factories are being converted into luxury apartments, buoyed with Łódź a new confidence in itself, the city continues to expand its horizons and we highly recommend a visit to see what all the hype is about. The transition is ongoing - and believe us, the time to go is now. To learn all there is to love in the city, visit lodz.inyourpocket.com - the best English-language guide to Łódź.

Events

Sightseeing

Restaurants

No. 39, January – April 2019

Nightlife

Shopping

Hotels

Maps

City Guide

The Promised Land: Łódź’s Industrial Heritage

‘The Great War’ Exhibition

Piotrkowska North and South

p.6

p.17

p.20–25

Manufaktura today is the result of Poland’s largest renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town. Originally a series of factories constructed in the latter part of the 19th century, the restoration quite simply has to be seen to be believed. Enter through Poznański gate, where workers used to file through everyday, and you’ll arrive at ground zero: the 30,000m2 Rynek (main square). Featuring Europe’s longest fountain, the square is the cultural hub, with restaurants, fitness club and IMAX cinema. The complex can boast a state of the art 4-star Andels hotel, a Museum of Art as well as the History of Łódź museum set in the palace of the former mill owner Izrael Poznański.

Thanks to Manufaktura’s success, the rest of the city has seen a kick-start to its gastronomy and party scene - walk along ul. Piotrkowska, Europe’s longest pedestrian street, which rates as one of Poland’s most famous party scenes, with places like OFF Piotrkowska, hosting trendy bars, clubs and places to eat, too located in the ground of an old industrial building, and Piotrkowska 217 hosting restaurants and food trucks have all but assured the city’s hip credentials. EC1 cultural centre (below), a former power station found directly across from the main train station Łódź Fabryczna, with its planetarium and soon to open science museum is a must see. The famous film school, founded in 1948 as a pet project of Stalin, has nurtured the talent of Polański, Wajda and Kieślowski, The city continues to change at a breakneck speed with new hotels queuing to join the market, and property investors discovering the hidden beauty and investment opportunities offered by the city’s run-down brick buildings and fast transit connections to Warsaw. Don’t miss out.

GETTING TO ŁÓDŹ Łódz lies 140km south west of Warsaw and is easily accessed by train. With new modernised lines, getting to Łódz from Warsaw is easier than ever, with journey times of 1.5 hours. If you’re travelling from the capital you’ll need to book a ticket running to the new Łódź Fabryczna train station. The city centre is best reached by tram or taxi. Taxis stand directly outside the main entrance to the station, although only use cabs that are clearly marked.

66 Warsaw In Your Pocket

EC1: Red brick mixed with modern architecture - lovely!

Cafés

Shabby chic interior, laid back atmosphere, and delightful food - all courtesy of Bułkę Przez Bibułkę.

BUŁKĘ PRZEZ BIBUŁKĘ This is a great little place that makes you feel like you’re in a small town setting as opposed to a busy street with cars whizzing past. The interior walls may look like the builders forgot to finish the job they started, but this is all part of the charm of the shabby chic look. It’s important to highlight the most important aspects of this place, the 1st being that they serve all-day-breakfasts which are damn good! From bagels to soups and sandwiches. Secondly, with all breakfast options, the cappuccino only costs an extra 5zł (lactose free milk, soya milk options you pay an additional fee). What’s more, if you buy a take-away coffee, 10 groszy from each sale goes to charity! Furthermore, something for all budgets, 0.5l wine is 15zł from 18:0021:00 daily, and Prosecco 5zł, and tap water is always free!

Their other locations are on ul. Zwycięzców 32 in Saska Kępa, ul. Puławska 24 in the Mokotów district and in Stara Papiernia, Al. Wojska Polskiego 3 in Konstancin.QG‑8, ul.

Zgoda 3, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 28 55 22, www. bulkeprzezbibulke.pl. Open 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. T­6­W CAFE PRÓŻNA Making a stir with Warsaw’s intellectuals is Cafe Próżna, a cracking cafe set inside an historic building that is slowly being renovated. You’ll be lucky to find a seat inside this narrow venue, even more so if there’s a lecture or reading going on. Decorated with pre-war photographs, Próżna comes with a pile of well-thumbed history books in the 68 Warsaw In Your Pocket

entrance, tiny tea candles and a basement level to soak up any overflow of customers. The only disappointment here are the smoothies; nowhere near as good as the venue deserves.QE‑7, ul. Próżna 12, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 620 32 57, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open 10:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. 6­W CROCCANTE The newest cafe in Warsaw with a prime location on the corner of Plac Trzech Krzyży (Three Crosses Square), part of the Royal Route (p.38). Entering, the flowing wall of chocolate (the only one in Poland) may very well hypnotise you (must...eat...sweet...things...). Don’t worry, if you resisted, the perfect balance between sweet and savoury is met here. Croccante is known for its cronuts, a mix between the taste of a croissant and the look of a donut. Sceptical? You need not be. The choice on offer is quite impressive, with various toppings and fillings (even a squeezy tube of alcohol can be added). The fantastic breakfast option is utterly impressive, where you can choose a croissant with savoury filling and get a tea/coffee included in the price. We wolfed down this deal while looking out the window at various coffee giants across the street who offer far less for the same price. Wanting more, we took their homemade ice-cream to go. Great smells, great tastes, and really great prices. Recommended.QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 1A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 668 19 00 86.

Open 08:00 - 20:00. Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

U­6­W

Cafés CROQUE MADAME A mighty fine French style cafe, bakery and cake shop which neatly manages to walk the difficult line of being neither too trendy nor too old fashioned and therefore attracts a nice mix of customers. The beautiful interior is all delicate whites and pale greys and the attention to detail in everything is immediately noticeable. Enjoy a morning breakfast basket (Polish or French style), lunches Mon-Fri 12:00-17:00 (main & soup for 24zł), freshly made sandwiches, light and colourful salads and marvel at the daily selection of cakes and sweets.

Whatever you order, it all comes simply, yet perfectly presented, and served by waiters and waitresses who actually look happy to be working here and that’s always a winner in our book!QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 41, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 530 75 72 00. Open 09:00 21:00. Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. 6­W ETNO CAFÉ Opened in April 2017 on Marszałkowska street, ETNO Cafe already follows on the success of its other branches in Wrocław, Poznań, Szczecin, Leszno and even another branch in Warsaw on Aleje Jerozolimskie 98 (and new location in Galeria Mokotów). The owners insist they know all their growers personally - quite a thing when you consider they import beans to be roasted in Wrocław, all the way from Ethiopia, Brazil, Peru and Tanzania. Pop by for a sit-in coffee, take one on the go, or peruse some of the bags of coffee, and accessories, they sell on site.QF‑9, ul.

Marszałkowska 87, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 533 77 92 55, www.etnocafe.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. T­6­W HOW YOU DOIN’?

If you and your friends were, or still are, obsessed with the US sitcom Friends, or you consider yourself to be a bit of a Chandler Bing or a Joey Tribbiani, but you can’t quite budget a trip to New York right now to take in that cult sitcom feel...instead, go to the corner of one of the most communist looking parts of Warsaw, Constitution Square (Plac Konstytucji) for that little piece of Friends, in How You Doin’? Alas, there’s no Gunther here, but you can get a decent choice of coffees, teas, smoothies, cocktails and food from snacks to sandwiches and desserts. There’s also alcohol to help you cope with the Chandler Bing of your group...

QG‑10, ul. Piękna 28/34, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 508 54 67 92, www.howudoin.pl. Open 07:30 - 22:00. Fri 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:30 - 24:00, Sun 08:30 - 21:00. 6­W ODETTE PASTRY SHOP Odette is perhaps Warsaw’s first boutique pastry workshop & cafe. The stylish interior invites you to indulge in their unique confectionery creations: cakes, cookies, chocolates and macaroons. The professional pastry chefs walk a fine line between traditional Polish and European pastries and more modern avant-garde. Their experiments are all in the noble cause of achieving confectionery perfection!

Also visit their new location at ul. Twarda 2/4.QG‑7, ul.

Górskiego 6/7, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 604 74 54 44, www.odette.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. W

CHOCOLATE LOUNGES

E. Wedel Chocolate Lounge

If there’s one universal truth about Poles it’s that they love their dessert. What might be considered a special treat or indulgence in your country is a standard part of the meal, a staple not to be left out. Evidence of this sugary fanaticism can be found in the long tradition of ‘chocolate lounges,’ cafes that are devoted to the cocoa-driven nectar in a way you thought only Hansel and Gretel could imagine.

E. WEDEL CHOCOLATE LOUNGE “OLDFASHIONED SHOP” The reason everyone at Wedel looks like they’re in a daze is because this is the mothership of chocolate cafes. Wedel is the country’s longest established chocolate manufacturer and one of the best known brands. This classy venue is located in what was once the factory and cafe of the Wedel business. The menu here is impressive in both size and scope, covering every variety of chocolate drink, dessert, truffle and ice cream dish imaginable. Chocolate comas are inevitable.

Try their other city centre location on Krakowskie Przedmieście 45.QG‑7, ul. Szpitalna 8, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 827 29 16, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

T­6­W WAWEL Yes it sounds awfully similar to Wedel, and their histories are equally alike. Confectioner Adam Piasecki founded the company in 1898 in Kraków and, making it through World War II, Wawel became a recognisable Polish brand for sweets. Their Warsaw chocolate lounge is located on swank Krakowskie Przedmieście, and though it is nowhere near as vast as the Wedel lounge nor as daunting in menu choices, chocoholics can still indulge in a ridiculous array of truffles and treats. The hot chocolate’s impressively diverse for the adventurous, with Cherry Crush and Cinnamon Islands recommended for those who like to compliment their chocolate with additional flavours.QG‑6, ul.

Królewska 2, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 828 14 99, www.wawel.com.pl. Open 10:00 20:00. W warsaw.inyourpocket.com 69

Traditional Polish Dishes

Polish pierogi can conquer any appetite.

Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and not especially colourful. You simply haven’t had a thorough sampling of it until you’ve tried all the traditional dishes below, all of which can be found in some of our favourite places mentioned on p.90. Smacznego!

BIGOS

Though there is no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

GOŁĄBKI

Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz IV fed his army quinn.anya, flicker.com, CC BY-SA 2.0 gołąbki before a battle against the Teutonic Order, and their unlikely victory has been attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

GOLONKA

Bigos

70 Warsaw In Your Pocket

© graletta - dollarphotoclub

© gkrphoto, AdobeStock

Pork knuckle or hock, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish delicacy, the boiled, braised or roasted meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Go caveman.

Traditional Polish Dishes KOTLET SCHABOWY

Probably the most popular lunch/ supper in Poland is the almighty ‘schabowy’ with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, and you can walk into almost restaurant in the country and be assured of its presence on the menu (if the kitchen hasn’t run out of it already). Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a Saturday or Sunday morning by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the collective sound of every housewife in Poland tenderising the meat for this meal with a spiky mallet. So best mind your manners.

2018

PIEROGI

Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawberries or plums, though if you nose around you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are served almost everywhere in the city.

PLACKI ZIEMNIACZANE

These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to Jewish latkes, and may be served simply with sour cream, or as a hefty meal smothered in mushroom sauce or goulash. Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

ZUPA (SOUP)

Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with potatoes and veggies tossed in, with a croquette or miniature pierogi floating in it, or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking (‘barszcz solo’). A recommended alternative to other beverages with any winter meal, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Kraków.

dumplings

crepes

sour rye soup in bread

apple pie

www.gosciniec.waw.pl ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 29 ul. Podwale 19 ul. Nowy Świat 41

It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg chucked in, and often served in a bread bowl. warsaw.inyourpocket.com 71

Restaurants

Dine in the Japanese Izakaya style (informal eating) in Wabu (p.86) - no false pretences, just great food!

Warsaw’s come a long way fast, and nowhere is the urban vibrancy more apparent than in the city’s progressive culinary scene. Today one can find quality dining experiences from most corners of the world, though the predominance of Italian trattorias, sushi bars and designer burger joints never ceases to amaze us. As the Polish palate is developing, so too is the service industry, though gruff, ditzy, or plain incompetent service is still far too common.

As regards to tipping, 10% is standard (easy math!), if a decent enough job is done.

While our rigorously researched opening hours would seem self-explanatory, be aware that venues will close their doors if business is slow, and some ‘restobars’ employ different sets of hours for bar and kitchen - the times we list in such cases are for the kitchen, and the prices we list in brackets denote the cost of the cheapest and most expensive main course on the menu.

Below is a selection of recommendations depending what you are looking for: BUSINESS Restauracja Różana (p.96) is an experienced local offering that will impress the client and give you room to talk shop, while Senses (p.76) became Poland’s 2nd restaurant to earn a Michelin star in 2016.

CHEAP The street food truck trend is fantastic, and even better when this type of food can be purchased at an actual venue, step in Oh My Pho (p.76), which does some 72 Warsaw In Your Pocket

fantastic Vietnamese food. If it’s quick but good hearty food you seek, our Quick Eats recommednations (p.96) will do just the trick.

COUPLES For a romantic and elegant night out Elixir (p.93) ticks all the right boxes, while those looking for somewhere with a more casually stylish atmosphere should get some Mediterranean vibes at the fantastic L’avanti Restaurant & Cocktail Bar (p.89) - a personalised experience.

KIDS Hard Rock Cafe (p.74) is always going to be a favourite and they do know how to make your special ones feel like Miley or Justin. Credit also goes to Trattoria Da Antonio (p.86) for their family centred restaurant with a playroom for the young ones to enjoy.

LADS Launch an attack on the pies, fish & chips and burgers at Legends (p.106) while downing pints of Spitfire Ale and watching the footie, or head down to City 24 (p.74) where you’ll be well fed 24/7, and be able to watch sports on TV at the same time.

POLSKI Eat in Warsaw’s oldest restaurant, the extravagant U Fukiera (p.96), or for a pre-revolutionary and elegant take on Polish cuisine Dom Polski (p.92) is a class act that’s hard to beat. For a full-on rustic Polish experience in the big city, the rustic style of Zapiecek’s (p.97) pierogi specialties is a good choice.

Restaurants SYMBOL & PRICE KEY 6 Animal friendly

C‑1 Map Coordinate

T Child-friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

W Wi-fi connection X Smoking room available o Year-Round Garden

€ €€ €€€ €€€€ €€€€€

most mains under 25zł most mains 25-45zł most mains 45-75zł most mains 75-115zł most mains over 115zł

AMERICAN BARN BURGER Decorated like a college common room with cult movie posters and some random Americana, Barn Burger has convinced plenty of coeds to ditch their diets and dive into juicy cheeseburgers or even the aptly-named ‘Heart Attack’ burger (mmm, bacon!). Every sandwich is partnered with chubby fries and a cup of coleslaw, and you’re a champ if you can finish the entire wooden tray’s worth of food before you. Check out their new second location as well at ul. Zgoda 5.QF‑7, ul. Złota 9, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 888 22 27 50, www.barnburger.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. €€. U­6 BLACK REAL BURGERS ‘N’ BAR The popular burger joint from Israel opens its first Polish venue. Located in Arkadia shopping centre, don’t be put off by the idea that this place will be nothing more than a basic eatery in the fast-food court. First thing’s first, upon entering, it’s easy to forget you’re in a shopping centre, which is a credit to the funky interior design, mixed with a dash of street art and...shipping containers - why not, huh?! The kitchen is open plan, the atmosphere is friendly (there’s even a kids’ play area) and the upstairs bar area is impressively stocked. The menu has what you’d expect from a burger joint, but there are other offerings too, such as steaks and street food favourites, like fried chicken, all under one roof and all tasty. The venue is new, the waiting staff are a little green, but watch as they grow in confidence and make your visit an enjoyable experience.QB‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II 82, MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 22 351 98 20, www.blackrealburger.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €€€. T­6­W BURGER BAR The space is small and the lines are long, but Burger Bar’s simple list of classic burgers makes up for what the location lacks (namely sides and a decent beverage selection).

Choose from the chalkboard menu – we’ve had the juicy cheeseburger more than once – and tell the chef your warsaw.inyourpocket.com 73

Restaurants BREAKFAST

As it’s arguably the most important meal of the day, it’s good news that there are early bird eating options that go beyond foraging in bins. Cafe Vincent has perhaps the best pastries, baguettes and croissants in the city.

For those on the tourist track looking for an early snack and a cup of joe, To Lubię is the best in show.

CAFÉ VINCENT This place is a great French bakery and coffee shop doing a huge range of authentic pastries and bread.

Their baked goods are a bit too good as there is almost always a queue out the door. Their espresso and croissants are the best in town and their full breakfast menu is delightful. Also at ul. Jana Pawła II 82, ul.

Chmielna 21, Sadyba Best Mall, ul. Białostocka 42, Pl. Grzybowski, Galeria Mokotów and Arkadia.QG‑7, ul.

Nowy Świat 64, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 828 01 15, www.vincentcafe.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:00. €. 6­W HARD ROCK CAFE If you’re looking for a big, fast and cheap American-style breakfast, none rocks harder than this global legend.

Their special breakfast menu features omelettes, eggs, quesadillas, juices, coffee etc. They also offer a “huge, fresh sandwich” for only 13zł, any breakfast choices along with a coffee will be 16zł.QE‑8, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrock.com/warsaw. Breakfast served 09:00 - 12:00. T­U­6­W TO LUBIĘ Divine. Coffee, cakes, pies, breakfast, coffee and apple crumble at 12zł a slice. Opposite the church on a street that is best known as being tourist-trap central, this is the kind of place you can get all twee for a moment. ‘I like this’ is what the name means and we do. Best bit, breakfast served all day!QF‑3, ul. Freta 8, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 90 23, www.tolubie.pl.

Open 09:00 - 22:00. €. 6­W

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 74 Warsaw In Your Pocket

selection. If the only other employee is on the phone he’ll ask you to pay later rather than handle your money, so grab a seat at one of the four odd tables and buckle up: this is a contender for Warsaw’s best burger, and you’re going to need both hands and plenty of napkins. Also they just opened a Chinese take-out joint next door called Pekin Express Duck & More. Also found on ul. Krucza 41/43.QH‑15, ul. Puławska 74/80, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 780 09 40 76. Open 12:00 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. €€. U­6 CHICAGO’S BAR & GRILL As with all caricature American bars, décor is an over-thetop collection of Route 66 road signs and 50s/60s beer ads in that typical diner feel. Decor aside, it’s a cosy little place where you can watch the big football games and have some good grub to fill a tasty spot - it’s also a nice place to nurse a bourbon while staff ferry orders of potato skins and apple pie around. Good and uncomplicated, though occasional live bands do their level best to make conversation tricky. Amazingly for a bar, there is a conference facility downstairs that holds 50 people (who knew?!). For the eco-conscious, the bar has cut out plastic straws and for takeaways they use paper bags! Baby steps are the most important steps!QD‑8, ul. Żelazna 41, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 890 09 99, www.chicagos. pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. T­U­6­W CITY 24 RESTAURANT GRILL & BAR It’s a rare thing to find somewhere to eat at any time of the day, especially during the ravenous hunt for food at 05:00... however, City 24 is open 24/7! A restaurant. Open 24 hours a day. 7 days a week. We aren’t making this up! A bit of a blessing in disguise, as thanks to its central location, it’s a handy place to stop by and eat some burgers, steaks, and all manner of grilled foods, whether it’s a welcome pit stop during your tourist wanderings or party night shenanigans.

There are two floors here, well equipped to hold a lot of people, and quite right, for they also show sports on numerous TVs.QF‑3, Al. Jerozolimskie 6, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 47 33, www.restaurantcity24.pl. Open 24h, 7 days a week. €€. 6­W HARD ROCK CAFE Is there anything more American than sinking your teeth into an 8oz. burger stacked with cheddar and bacon while staring at the jacket worn by Jimi Hendrix on the cover of Are You Experienced? The Hard Rock Cafe has based a business around the concept of unrivalled burgers and impressive memorabilia, and Warsaw’s chapter is no different. The two-story venue features a wall made of 675 guitars and their new menu offers even more mouth watering American grilled, fried and melted classics (veggie options also available). The dark basement bar churns out heaping drinks that look like they require two straws. Live music is available every Wednesday (20:00) and on Fridays Rock Radio hosts a live show from here 14:00-18:00.QE‑8, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrock.com/warsaw. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€€€. T­U­E­6­W

Restaurants JACK’S CINEMA BAR & RESTAURANT So Mr Jack Daniels is in town and he’s brought a projector screen with him! Opened in 2015, Jack’s Cinema is a mix of three things: a bar, restaurant and event only cinema, all of which come together nicely. The interior has that American post-industrial feel, with a ceiling blotted out with hundreds of JD bottles - quite the touch! For food, the steaks, burgers and chicken wings are outstanding. For drinks at the bar, aside from the obvious choice, there are dozens of options from beers to the harder stuff! As for the cinema, keep an eye on their site for all the latest info on film screenings and live music events in dedicated mini cinema hall!QG‑8, ul. Bracka 18, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 400 28 23, www.jackscinema.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. T­U­E­6­W KOKO & ROY NEW First thing’s first, credit goes to the owners for making an American styled venue that isn’t a generic reproduction of a diner. This is a completely modern take on an American bar and restaurant, which is entirely refreshing. The interior is a modern type of place, filled with paraphernalia that wouldn’t look out of place in a music themed New York cafe. To understand the venue, you have to understand the owners, a couple, one being Polish the other American.

Poifect. Burgers are the staple on the menu, but the Octopus is a highly recommended option. The drinks are great too, as is watching the interactions of the staff with each other and guests. A friendly, good food type of place.

Recommended.QF‑9, ul. Wilcza 43, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 699 85 64, www.kokoandroywarsaw.com.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:30 - 01:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon. €€. E­W SOMEPLACE ELSE SPE has been serving up some of the best burgers in Warsaw for as long as we can remember, and a recent visit shows little has changed: the SPE Quesadilla is both epic and creative. The large, open bar is capable of mixing up anything you can think of, including a spicy bloody Mary to accompany the Sheraton’s brunch, which is served here on Sundays.QH‑9, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa. someplace-else.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Sat 16:00 -24:00. €€€. T­U­W

ASIAN FAT BUDDHA Disclaimer: No, you haven’t just walked into a night club.

You are, in fact, in a restaurant and lounge. A nice chilled out one at that, with ambient music in the background.

Once you’re settled, choose from the impressive menu with Asian food favourites, and a classy selection of wines and champagnes. Although not the cheapest of places, the food was of a high standard and the knowledgable waiting staff are friendly and professional in every regard! After your meal, freshen up in the toilets, where we were pleasantly surprised with the products laid out for customers to warsaw.inyourpocket.com 75

Restaurants MICHELIN-STARRED Even those who only have a fleeting interest in gastronomy will know what it means for a restaurant to be recognised by the Michelin guide. In Warsaw, and indeed Poland, the first ever star to be awarded to a Polish restaurant occurred in 2013 with Atelier Amaro’s gastronomical efforts quite rightly recognised for the fine dining experience they offer. Just 3 years later, Senses became only the 2nd restaurant in Poland to be awarded a star for their fantastic modern take on Polish dishes. We at IYP unashamedly flaunt the fact that the capital is home to the country’s only Michelinstarred venues.

SENSES In March 2016 Senses became the second restaurant in Poland to receive a Michelin star. This is a testament to the truly innovative work Head chef Andrea Camastra has done developing his tasting menus steeped in the culinary traditions and produce of Poland. His dynamic, uncompromising and experimental approach in achieving his vision have taken Polish cuisine to unprecedented levels. Having done away with a la carte menus all together, Senses now offer three different tasting menus - Piccolo (320zł, served Mon-Thu), Medio (440zł) and Grande (550zł), both of which are served all week. The interior masterfully blends the feeling of the surrounding architecture and the attention to detail is mind-boggling. Prepare to have your senses blown away.QE‑5, ul. Bielańska 12, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 331 96 97, www.sensesrestaurant.pl. Open 18:00 - 21:45. Closed Sun. €€€€€. W ATELIER AMARO It’s not hyperbole to call Atelier Amaro one of Poland’s most modern restaurants, being the first to land a coveted Michelin star. All the credit goes to famed chef and owner Wojciech Modest Amaro, who describes the cuisine as “where nature meets science.” That ‘science’ is molecular gastronomy, which means almost nothing is as it seems: an amuse-bouche arrives on the table with a flourish of dry ice fog, revealing caviar atop a surprisingly citrusy foam. Meals can be 6 (290 zł MonThu) or 9 (380 zł) “moments” and employ traditional Polish plants like nettles and beetroot in unexpected, highly creative dishes – the menu changes almost daily. An absolute must for diehard foodies (children under 14 years of age are not allowed any day). The restaurant lunches are served Wed-Fri 12:00-14:30 (last order at 13:30), so best get there early or put up with the crushing disappointment of missing out and waiting for the place to re-open at 18:00.QH‑11, ul.

Plac Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. (+48) 792 22 22 11, www.atelieramaro.pl. Open Tue 18:00 - 24:00, WedFri 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 17:00 - 24:00.

Closed Sun, Mon. €€€€€. U­W 76 Warsaw In Your Pocket

use (really, see for yourself ). Stay till late and enjoy the atmosphere late into the night (until the last customer).

Please note, there is a 10% service charge added to your bill.

QF‑7, ul. Mazowiecka 2/4, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 690 03 05 58, www.fatbuddha.pl. Open 17:00 - 04:00. Wed 17:00 - 24:00, Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. €€€. T­U­6­W OH MY PHO Oh My Pho, indeed! At least that’s what I was saying to myself after trying their food. Found on ul. Wilcza, just off the main ul. Marszałkowska, this Vietnamese street food joint serves up some mighty dishes (not bad considering the reasonable prices). The interior is small (two rooms), sparse, with some white and red walls with photos dotted around; you’ll most likely walk in and have to wait a short time while you wait for others to eat up and make space, but that’s just a sign of how popular this place has become for those looking for good quality quick food. The menu is extensive (including vegan and vegetarian), so you’re spoilt for choice - we went for Nuong Kieu Saigon (with chicken) and Bo Xao (with beef ) and were delighted at how tender the meat was. Friendly service and good food - a simple combination that works well.QG‑9, ul. Wilcza 32, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 579 12 61 83, www.ohmypho.pl.

Open 11:00 - 22:00. Sun 11:00 - 21:00. €€. 6­W

BALKAN MUNJA NEW “When did this pop up?!” was our first thought, so quick is the mushrooming pace of new buildings appearing in the Wola district of the city. The location is great for those wandering around exploring Warsaw’s old streets, and the food inside is veggy and meaty! The interior is, well, long enough to throw a baseball, but as for design, it’s warming, modern, and has a fantastic open kitchen to watch your food being prepared. In the true Adriatic style, the tables are prepared for any guests, from businessmen, tourists, and large groups, such as families, to enjoy their meals.

The seasonal drinks are great and the hearty meat platter is best eaten between 3 - we tried between 2 and felt like we had a depth charge thrown at us. Recommended.QC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 43, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 664 90 11 61. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Fri, Sat 12:00- 24:40, Sun 13:0022:20. €€. T­L­W­H NA BAŁKANY NEW Just off Plac Konstytucji, take a left down the lane at ul. Koszykowa 53. That’s the easy part, the challenge is wrestling the giant curtain at the entrance. Once you’ve tangoed with it, it’s all pleasant thereafter. Set in a sparse interior with Balkan movie posters, bulbs and bottles making up the core of the design, which surprisingly creates a warm atmosphere, perfect for lunch time visits, romantic evenings, and group gatherings. The menu is packed with vegetables and meat (of course it is), and the starters with grilled and battered vegetables definitely raise an eyebrow. The mains come with great regional dips

Restaurants and cheeses an the desserts are a delight. Seasonal nonalcoholic/alcoholic options are available, as are regional wines. A nice choice.QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 47 (entrance from ul. Koszykowa 53), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 118 38 38, www.nabalkany.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€.

RUZA ROZA The newly transformed Ruza Roza hits the bullseye in almost every department. Perfectly situated on trendy ul.

Francuska, a well thought out garden space and an interior which is fresh and sophisticated. Every detail has been carefully considered. The seasonally changing menu may has a distinctive Balkan flair yet they aren’t afraid to expand and experiment with other cuisines. Expect the freshest local and regional produce throughout the colourful menu. It’s also a top spot to drop in for a cocktail (with occasional live music). A nanny service is offered Sat & Sun 14:00-17:00.QL‑7, ul. Francuska 3, tel. (+48) 22 616 35 97, www.ruzaroza.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. €€€. T­E­W

CZECH ČESKÁ PIVNI RESTAURANT The Czech Beer and Culinary experience has finally been corporatised and franchised at this popular city centre restaurant. As much as we’d like to hate this place for its sterilised atmosphere, average food and sub par service - the Pilsner is the real deal and served up fast, cold and as foamy as you like (go half and half ). So in summary, it has most of the qualities of authentic Czech places minus the McCzech corporate packaging. Since the prices are competitive and portions quite large, this turns out to be a great spot for a mid-day city escape or an early evening Urquell session.QF‑8, ul. Chmielna 35, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 602 33 34 44, www.ceska.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€. T­U­6­W U SZWEJKA This ageing establishment, equipped with Czech street signs and images of simpleton Szwejk, is a bit of a Warsaw classic, and while it looks brash and basic the food is fine and the portions are scary. The steak is inconsistent, so best stick to ordering standards like sausages and schnitzel.

Patience is a good tactic to use with the staff, but there’s certainly no criticism of the Pilsner on draught - cut the dismal waiting times by ordering in steins. Lunches available Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30. They also have nightly live music from 19:30 throughout the week, and 14:00-18:00 on Sundays (along with a nanny service on this day only).

QG‑10, Pl. Konstytucji 1, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 339 17 10, www.uszwejka.pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €. T­o­E­W

Full contents online: warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com 77

Restaurants FRENCH

INDIAN

LE VICTORIA BRASSERIE MODERNE Located inside the Sofitel Victoria Hotel, Le Brasserie sparkles with a sophisticated colour scheme of beige, creams and greys. Black and white light fittings, orange highlights, window-like mirrors and comfy geometric seating add a warm and spacious feel to Didier Gomez’s design. The slick open kitchen area draws your eye to the work of chef Maciej Majewski and his team as they prepare seasonally adjusted dishes based on classic and modern brasserie-style French cuisine. Prices are seriously competitive with nearby restaurants, making it an attractive proposition for a stylish and upmarket dinner date or business lunch.QF‑6, ul. Królewska 11, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 657 83 82, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. T­U­6­W

BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE A restaurant which is more popular than ever, and ideally situated smack bang in the middle of the lively Nowy Świat. The menu features authentic and aromatic meat and vegetarian dishes, plus a range of Indian courses, all excellently prepared by chefs from northern India. Drop in Mon-Fri for their lunch menu from 12:00 - 16:00 (23.99 zł) and Sundays before 17:00 get a 30% discount on the whole menu, furthermore, from 17:00-20:00 get -50% discount on 2 dishes from the vege and meat options. Eat, relax, and enjoy. To leave well-fed and entertained is a plus, non?QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 58, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 02 83, www.bollywoodlounge. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€.

T­E ­W

FUSION

BUDDHA INDIAN RESTAURANT Buddha really impressed when they opened up a couple of years back giving us very good Indian food right in the heart of the city. The newly renovated interiors are lush and extravagant, and the curries follow a similar suit with a spicy slap that puts them at the top of our list. The rest of the menu is monstrous, but helpfully benchmarked with symbols for hot, vegetarian and even kid-friendly dishes. You can be rest assured that all meals are made by highly trained Indian chefs. Don’t miss their weekday lunch specials (main and soup) from 12:00-15:30 for just 20 zł for vege and chicken options and 26zł for lamb options.QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 23, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 35 01, www.buddha.info.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:45. Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:45. €€. T­U­W

FUSION Beautifully presented food in the modern, if regularly quiet, interiors of the Westin hotel. The food here is very good, if a tad pricey compared to city restaurants, but you get what you pay for, with everything being of a superior quality. Regular seasonal specials based around particular ingredients keep happy local foodies coming back for more. Don’t miss their Business Lunch Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 starting at 39zł.QD‑7, Al. Jana Pawła II 21 (The Westin Hotel), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 450 86 31, www.restauracjafusion.pl. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:30; Sat 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 22:30; Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 13:00 - 22:30. €€€€. T­U­ o­W

GEORGIAN RESTAURACJA RUSIKO Family run Georgian restaurant located at the Plac Trzech Krzyży end of Al. Ujazdowskie. The owner, Davit Turkestanishvili is a much revered ambassador for his country’s cuisine in the city and with his mother and aunt ruling the kitchen, authenticity is guaranteed (the restaurant is even named after his mum). The interior has a nice contemporary feel, mixed with traditional elements – like the Georgian tapestries and rugs adorning the walls and floor. If unfamiliar with the cuisine of the region, we recommend sharing one of their ‘taste of Georgia’ starter platters or the succulent broth filled Chinkali meat pouches before delving into the delicious and exotically seasoned mains. A kid’s area also emphasises the close ties Georgians place on food and family as a social event for all. As an addition, check out their wine bar, which only sells Georgian wine, brandy and other strong alcohols!QH‑9, Al. Ujazdowskie 22, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 06 28, www.rusiko.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€.

T­6­W 78 Warsaw In Your Pocket

NAMASTE INDIA What began as a modest Indian-owned grocery store soon expanded into a full-on ethnic restaurant and proved so popular that a second location was needed to meet the demand for delicious Indian cuisine. For office workers around town, this - the newly expanded original location - remains the best, and we’ll agree that it simply doesn’t get much better for Indian food in the capital.

Better still, the prices are set so low you can’t help but ask what’s the catch. There isn’t one; we’ve tried pretty much everything on the menu, and have yet to find a weak link. Consider ringing ahead for takeaway because waiting times can be torture and ask about booking their new private room for parties and meetings.QG‑8, ul.

Nowogrodzka 15, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€. W

Full contents online: warsaw.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants INTERNATIONAL AURELIO - CULINARY & ART In the world of gastronomy, first impressions mean everything. It can make or break a business. No problems here then, for even when you enter Aurelio you are hit by the elegant nature of the interior, a pleasant mix of Art Deco detail, with a thoroughly modern twist, with even the world of online currency being incorporated into the art of the place. The menu is tastily international and each dish is created to the personal touch of Aureliusz Wilk, chef, culinary traveller and author, who has created a menu dedicated to locally sourced produce, our own habitat, so to speak. Of notable worth are the filet mignon with red pepper sauce, sweet potato and grilled vegetables and the zander with Béarnaise sauce, carrot purée, black lentils and stuffed cabbage with potato and sage purée. As good as the food is, the cocktails, with their inspiration taken from pre-war Varsovian style really top off your experience. More than just a restaurant, Aurelio is where food, art and emotion mix to provide a unique atmosphere.

Check out their website for the latest events here, which include concerts, stand-up nights and recitals.QG‑7, ul. Świętokrzyska 14, MNowy Świat- Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 510 00 41 42, www.aurelio.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.

Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. T­U­6 BAZAR KOCHA Marcin Koch is not afraid to follow his heart and his stomach. Having quit the financial world he moved to Paris to study at Le Cordon Bleu School of Culinary Arts and honed his skills in Tuscany, Barcelona and Hong Kong.

The interior of his bistro/deli is a stylish mix of modern rural with a hint of industrial. The freshest ingredients, constantly changing menu, wicked presentation, a deli area selling a range of their own products, cakes and bread and some seriously bizarre, ‘bazar’ juice mixes!QG‑10, ul.

Mokotowska 33/35, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 102 20 70, www.bazarkocha.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Mon 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. €€€. T­B­6­W BOSKA PRAGA This is the type of upscale multipurpose venue that Praga has been lacking and most certainly deserves. The multilevel lofted restaurant offers plenty of space for elegant wining and dining while also providing some cosy corners to curl up with a laptop and coffee. Their extensive menu is truly impressive if not a bit exhaustive with everything from wood fired pizza, sleek salads to cutting edge meaty mains and exotic specials. Don’t miss their breakfast menu 08:30 - 12:00 (Mon-Fri) and 09:00 - 13:00 (Sat-Sun) or lunch specials served 12:00 - 16:00 (Mon-Fri).

Head downstairs to the basement for a private party or leave your kids in their huge kid’s corner (with an animator at the weekends!). Boska means divine and it’s not just a line.QI‑4, ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 404 54 89, www.boskapraga.pl. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Fri 08:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 21:00. €€. T­U­6­W 80 Warsaw In Your Pocket

GENESIS + STEAK What looks like a Gaudi 2.0 building in one of Warsaw’s newest squares, Plac Europejski, is actually Genesis + Steak restaurant and cocktail bar. This place is definitely for fine dining, and you’re right to set your expectations high. The ingredients are top quality, the food preparation likewise, and the interior and staff all add to the overall experience, which in our opinion is outstanding. A range of international dishes are on offer, from amazing appetisers and soup starts, to the mains, with the steaks from 5 countries (Poland, Ireland, America, Argentina and Spain) prepared in no less than 17 separate ways deserving a special mention, which are prepared in a wood fire stove, and taste delightful. We also highly recommend the desserts! The prices are high, but the quality and experience matches the price tag.QC‑7, Plac Europejski 5, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 395 75 77, www.genesiswarsaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.

Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 14:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€€€.

T­U­W GRAND KREDENS Few places in Warsaw match this for a fine, dare we say splendid dining experience. The revamped decor is delightfully eclectic and the menu - with a terrific variety of fish (amongst much else) to savour - is well up to the challenge of its rivals which includes even getting on board with the kiddy playground corner.

It is not by any means the cheapest place in town, but we would be fairly certain that however big the bill, you will leave feeling well satisfied. This has been around Warsaw longer than we have - since 1997, to be exact, which is a testament to how great it is. It’s a treat, so don’t miss out.QD‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 111, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 80 08, www.kredens. com.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. T­U­E­6­W HALA GWARDII Hala Gwardii, the twin building of Hala Mirowska, has now returned to its pre-war roots and is once more a food market where you can peruse and buy specialty products or feast on local and imported foods from a big choice of food stalls. After the war, it served as a bus depot until eventually becoming a sports hall used by the military Sports Guard Club (from where the name originates).

It’s a strange mix of things this new place. It feels like a less posh version of Hala Koszyki, a grimier version of Hala Mirowska (indeed, the exterior of the building is not in great shape!), and Nocny Market (night market) all thrown into the same mix. Despite the similarities, it’s neither of these things. To add to this eclectic mix, the interior contains a boxing ring, not just for show, but for training and events! The walls too are adorned with legends of the Polish boxing scene, a homage, if you will, to the building’s previous use. The choice of food is decent and worth exploring.QE‑6, Plac Żelaznej Bramy 1, MRondo ONZ, www.halagwardii.pl. Open Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00 only.

Restaurants DECODING THE MENU Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego!

(Enjoy your meal!) śniadanie breakfast zupa soup przystawki appetisers dania główne main dishes dodatki side dishes ziemniaki potatoes kapusta cabbage ser cheese chleb bread warzywa vegetables owoce fruit mięso meat kurczak chicken wieprzowina pork wołowina beef ryba fish deser dessert ciasto cake lody ice cream napoje drinks kawa coffee piwo beer

HEALTHY EATING MANGO VEGAN STREET FOOD Mango has rapidly built up a cult following for its cheap and cheerful vegan fair in the city centre. The menu may be short but it’s a great place to enjoy a range of Arabic and Israeli influenced flavours, from juicy vegan burgers, falafel based options to soups, smoothies and drinks. The yellow and white painted brickwork interior makes this ‘fast food’ joint look effortlessly hip. The tatted and bearded staff are friendly, funny and enjoy a bit of clowning around.QG‑8, ul. Bracka 20, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 535 53 36 29, www. mangovegan.pl. Open 11:30 - 21:00. Fri, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 22:00. €€. T­6­W VEGE MIASTO A paradise for Warsaw’s healthy eating, vegan and gluten-free fanatics. The interior is a pretty simple affair with fittings made from old wooden crates and palettes. The smallish space is permanently packed with a variety of customers; hip vege devotees sit alongside business types, local ladies and tourists in search of something beyond a fried pig and a kilo of potatoes.QE‑5, Al. Solidarności 60A, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 251 05 25, www.vegemiasto. pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00. €€. T­6­W 82 Warsaw In Your Pocket

HALA KOSZYKI From the outset Hala Koszyki has managed to raise the love and hate hackles of the city’s ‘out on the town’ set.

How many world cuisine eateries of various sizes can you squeeze into one space? Actually, due to its popularity, fate may decide what you’ll eat as tables are packed most times of the day or night. Amazingly popular amongst the young and the beautiful, Hala K will probably remain THE place to be seen for some time to come - mainly because it’s easy to be seen due to its open plan layout. Top class little independent bistros sit next to some of Warsaw’s chain restaurants and the biggest restaurateurs including Mateusz Gessler’s gastronomic outpost - Warszawski Sen. The street food bazaar has some brilliant food on offer, with stands offering flavours from all over the world. There are of course some shops here too, however, in reality, they’ll always play second fiddle to the top class dining area. Even if you can’t find a table at any of the cool eateries and bars, we urge you to spend some time taking in this stunning market hall. Don’t forget to look up, down, sideways etc. as beautiful hidden details abound!QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 09:00 01:00.

NA LATO DAY & NIGHT A powiśle area favourite in summer, just because you cannot lounge outside on the patio in winter, it doesn’t mean this place isn’t buzzing. Visit during the day to get some awesome breakfast (Mon-Fri 08:30-12:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-12:30) and the rest of the day, grab some international dishes (heavily leaning towards southern European cuisine), all mixed with an ethos for locally sourced produce, cooked with an artistic touch.The setting, both the location and the interior, work well, as they are pleasant on the eye and the soul. On Fri & Sat, let the night set in as the venue becomes a dancefloor - blink and you’ll miss the transformation. Get well fed, dance your socks off, or sit at the bar continuing to drink wonderful cocktails. If that’s not enough, check out Jackpot Warsaw 777 on the premises, a heady mix of palm trees and Tennessee bar feel - very romantic, indeed. Not a bad set of choices, huh?QI‑9/10, ul.

Rozbrat 44A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 696 87 84 49, www.na-lato.com. Open 08:30 -12:00. Fri 08:30 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. €€.

PRIME CUT Welcome to New York! Well, Warsaw really, but Prime Cut certainly has the Manhattan steakhouse with a European flair going, and it certainly doesn’t disappoint. The interior is modern but has touches of old techniques, which are spotted in the wood fire oven, great for steaks, and they also make their own baked goods, which just adds to the experience, and of course, the taste! If steak is not your thing, no problem, seasonal goods are also on offer. If you’re deciding where to go eat, take it from us, Prime Cut is quite the place.QE‑7, ul. Twarda 18, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 733 08 22 33, www.primecut.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Sat 13:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€€€. W

Restaurants RESTAURACJA KULTURA On the ground floor of Kino Kultura, and therefore commanding one of the greatest locations on all of Krakowskie, the Kultura makes good use of the space by serving food that lives up to its surroundings. Smart waitresses whiz around the restaurant carrying plates of roasted duck to your table before presenting you with a bill that should, given the quality, be far higher. Breakfast is served 09:00-11:30, with prices from 8.50zł and Lunch of the day (soup, main and kompot) is only 27zł, served from 12:00-15:00.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 21/23, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 784 04 40 51, www.restauracjakultura.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. T­W

GREATEST SELECTION OF

ROZBRAT 20 For all intents and purposes, faultless. A fine dining experience of the old school, though the food has a contemporary twist and packs a seriously sophisticated punch. The menu is seasonal and changes regularly. As for the wine list, it needs no introduction: it is one of the best in all Poland, and knowledgeable staff will help you choose the best compliment to your meal. An indulgence, go for it.QI‑9, ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. (+48) 22 416 62 66, www.rozbrat20.com.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (42-92zł). W STREFA RESTAURANT & BAR The award winning Strefa oozes old style glamour from the exterior and a cool, modern, whitewashed brick and pale colour scheme interior. Nothing is over the top and the more informal bar area compliments the stunningly designed restaurant room beautifully. The kitchen in the main restaurant specialises in a wide range of original signature dishes. The ambience, quality and standard of service more than justify the borderline high prices and as an added bonus they are also pet friendly! For an added bonus, check out the Mon-Fri lunch menu, consisting of soup, main dish and dessert for 35zł.QE‑7, ul. Próżna 9, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 255 08 50, www.restauracjastrefa.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. T­U­6­W

Steaks, that exceed your expectations!

Try them today!

THE COOL CAT This has become one of our favourite spots in the last year.

With a hip and laid back atmosphere you might be fooled into thinking it’s just another hipster bar/cafe. A quick glance at the action packed menu though will take your taste buds on a tour through some truly original Asian influenced breakfasts, lunches and dinners. Start with Israeli shakshuka then graduate to a Korean pork bun served with bacon, chicken, tofu and crab. Take note: their speciality is ramen!

Their exceptional coffee and alcohol selection mean that you can quite easily find an excuse to hang out here eating and drinking all day and night (guilty as charged). Don’t miss their three course lunch specials for 35zł and their weekend brunches (Asian, Mediterranean and Mexican), served on boards, all day for 30zł are nothing short of epic. They have a 2nd location on ul. Marszałkowska 8.QI‑7, ul. Solec 38, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 574 81 18 16. Open 08:30 - 22:00. Mon 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. €€. T­6­W warsaw.inyourpocket.com 83

Restaurants WARSZAWSKI SZNYT With possibly the best view of any restaurant in the city (Old town, Royal Castle and the Praga skyline!) this classy restaurant revives pre-war Warsaw grandeur and injects it with some thoroughly modern accents. With an open kitchen on both levels of the restaurant (top level open from 18:00), you can watch whatever Polish or international specialties you order come together in real time. Don’t overlook their oak fired grilled beef which are on display in specialty aging fridges. Sit upstairs and enjoy the gorgeous copper bar that churns out luxurious cocktails and drinks for just before or after your meal. They also have occasional live piano music and an exceptional weekday lunch specials.

QF‑4, ul. Senatorska 2, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 609 60 80 10, www.warszawskisznyt.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

Sun 08:00 - 22:00. €€€€€. T­U­E­6­W WINESTONE The Mercure Hotel’s concept restaurant has proven itself a popular venue for the local business set. The name ‘Winestone’ comes from the menu’s selection of ‘Les Planches’ - dishes served on simple stone tablets, and the incredible range of fine wines in stock here. The menu also covers a range of seasonally changing international and French style dishes, as well as some modern interpretations of Polish classics. A lunch menu is available weekdays 12:0015:00. Presentation is slick and the staff are wonderfully polite and professional. The relaxing and modern interior is perfectly unstuffy and features Warsaw’s must-have restaurant design element of the year - the open kitchen.

There is also a shop for taking home olives, wine and bread of your own following your meal. (Also located on ul. Krucza 28 in the Mercure Warszawa Grand and as of 01 December ul. Zagórna 1A).QE‑8, ul. Złota 48/54, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 697 37 55, www.mercure.com. Open 08:30 24:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. T­U­W ZORZA The name cryptically references the Slavic goddesses responsible for the opening and closing of Dažbog’s (the Sun God) palace gates at dawn and in the evening; hence a really complex way of saying “We open early and close late” (thank you Professor). Breakfasts are served from 7am, after which the kitchen stays open until 2am; a rarity among Warsaw’s dining establishments. The menu works wonderfully well, with a host of local and internationally inspired dishes; snacks, small dishes and mains with the emphasis on the freshest produce from small scale and bio producers. ‘Cocking-a-snoot’ at the nearby competition, the design team give the glitzy, clubby look a wide berth and fearlessly dive headlong into the art-deco bistro style with a modern edge and the results are absolutely splendid!QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 6/12.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 84 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Restaurants ITALIAN CIAO NAPOLI NEW Located a short distance away from the Old Town Square (p.34), Ciao Napoli’s aim is to bring a piece of little Naples to the middle of Warsaw. Having originally opened on Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8 (F-4), it succeeded. With word spreading it has one of the best pizzas in the city, we had to see for ourselves, and we were not disappointed.

Think of our delight when they opened a 2nd location on ul. Długa with more seating available, a bigger kitchen, and an expanded menu, all with the friendly atmosphere and cosiness of the first restaurant. Offering a selection of antipasti, salads, piadina and desserts, it is the choice of pizzas with their fantastically made thin and crispy dough which really stick out. As if things couldn’t get any better, they have daily happy hours from 16:00-20:00 with 2-for-1 cocktails. You leave satisfied, especially when you realise, despite being in a tourist hotspot, just how reasonably priced the whole experience was.QF‑4, ul.

Długa 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 666 32 27 33, www.ciaonapoli.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€. 6­W FOCACCIA RISTORANTE The restaurant is housed in the 16th century Hotel Bellotto, just a sabre’s swipe from the Old Town tourist checkpoint of Zygmunt’s column (they offer clients coveted free parking as well). The interior is a modern, airy and uncluttered space with admirable attention to detail. In keeping with the zeitgeist, the traditionally inspired Italian menu is booted well into the 21st century with the chef’s modernist tweaking which they also offer offsite for catering engagements. They recently opened a patisserie (open daily 09:00 - 20:00) called ‘Miodowa Cafe’ (Honey Cafe) which features a vast dessert menu all based on honey. A revamped garden is also on offer for guests to enjoy.QF‑5, ul. Senatorska 13/15, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 829 69 69, www.focaccia.pl. Open 07:30 - 22:00. Fri, Sat 07:30 23:00. €€€. T­W MIŁOŚĆ There’s a lot to love about Miłość (love in Polish). This large two levelled café/eatery/club is really onto something with a slick Scandinavian-style retro bar, a raised DJ area with a wall of climbing greenery, and a bookcased space, complete with tatty rug, armchairs and a geometric coffee table, which makes you think of a professor’s reading room circa 1970. The food is fantastically eclectic and wonderfully inventive - lunch menu is served Tue-Fri 12:00-16:00 for 19zł (pizza and lemonade!). Upstairs you’ll find local indie record label Asfalt’s very own record shop. Warsaw’s nomadic artsy crowd are already flooding in.QF‑6, ul. Kredytowa 9, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 657 21 83, www. kredytowa9.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Fri, Sat 12:00 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. T­E­6­W warsaw.inyourpocket.com 85

Restaurants PIAZZA RISTORANTE We’ve been humbled by the proliferation of top quality eateries opening in shopping centres recently. You can be forgiven for thinking that a restaurant in such a place doesn’t warrant consideration, but we can confidently say this is a misconception. Get that image of nothing more than a food court out of your mind! Piazza Ristorante is located right at the entrance to the classy Plac Unii shopping centre, with a great view out onto the square with the same name. The interior is Italian in style, with a modern touch, but we really do recommend trying to have a view outside and watch the world go by in the charming square.

We put Piazza to the test with a starter, main and dessert, and each course just got better as they appeared in front of us. Pizza fans (myself included) will be pleased with the thin and crispy dough. Sea food lovers will like zander, risotto with sunflower seeds in mushrooms, roasted buckwheat, beets, sour cream with chives. As for the new dishes on offer, they range from baked beetroot and cherry soup with linseed and grilled pear, to grilled veal risotto along with sunflower seeds and grilled Jerusalem artichoke and caramelised pumpkin. Friendly staff, great location and easy to get to on trams 4, 35 or bus 501, from the centre.

Recommended.QG‑12, ul. Puławska 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 204 04 83, www.piazzaristorante.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Sun 10:00 - 20:00. €€€. T­W SEXY DUCK Arriving pretty early in the day at 12.30, imagine our surprise to find the place a packed, feeding frenzy of customers with the fantastic smell of Italian cooking and fresh herbs in the air plus the incessant natter of happy eaters. We had to check our watches to make sure it wasn’t late evening! The two level interior ticks all the boxes in terms of nicely done rustic/semi-industrial design, that, while certainly nice, is really starting to feel a bit ‘old hat’ around town. As well as a list of pizza & pasta dishes, all beautifully presented in a truly rustic manner. Duck actually does make quite a few appearances on the menu so we’ll forgive the slightly daffy name!QG‑10, Plac Konstytucji 3, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 400 37 37. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00. €€. T­6­W SPACCA NAPOLI It’s exciting when someone dares to take a different approach to the mass of Italian eateries in Warsaw.

Spacca Napoli’s restaurant and deli menus are rooted in the culinary traditions of Naples and at first glance the starters, pizzas and pasta dishes may look predictable, but it certainly manages to throw in a number of unique options. Try an orzo salad - pearl barley, aubergine, courgette, carrots, olive oil and mint, or go for a classic Neapolitan mulignana pizza. They’re also pretty slick when it comes to the social and family atmosphere of true Italian restaurants, the lovely staff may as well pull up a pew and join in with your conversation.QE‑7, ul. Świętokrzyska 30, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 127 93 99, www. spaccanapoli.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€. T­U­6­W 86 Warsaw In Your Pocket

TRATTORIA DA ANTONIO Sicilian born chef Antonio Centurrino has been a fixture in Warsaw’s Italian culinary scene for as long as we can remember and his fans will be delighted with his latest venture on ul. Żurawia. There are four spacious and elegant rooms that have recently been given the royal treatment. Being Italian, family plays an important role in the proceedings, so one of the rooms is kitted out as a play room for kids.

Their comprehensive menu features some house specials alongside tried and true classics. New location on Al. Jerozolimskie 119.QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 18, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 625 54 17, www. trattoriadaantonio.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. T­6 ­W VENTI-TRE At the risk of sounding like a broken record we’ll say once more; some of Warsaw’s finest meals are to be had in hotel restaurants, and this upscale eatery proves no different. An open plan kitchen and giant glass windows allow for a more informal atmosphere than in other five stars, while the wood-fired oven knocks out pizzas that rise well above the high street standard. Try their business lunch buffet Mon-Fri 12:00 - 15:30 and Sunday brunches.

They even have their own apiary​on the roof which is where they get their fresh Łazienki Gold honey from which they serve at breakfast.QI‑13, ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Warsaw Hotel), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 558 10 94, www.regent-warsaw.com. Open 06:30 23:00. €€€€. T­U­W

JAPANESE BENIHANA From humble beginnings in New York, ‘Rocky’ Aoki opened his first Japanese restaurant in 1964. The chain has now grown to over 130 restaurants worldwide.

Following in the style of the chain, Benihana Warsaw is a stylish and modern eatery with a rich black and red colour scheme. The front section features a Japanese/ Asian restaurant area and cool cocktail bar, but venture to the back section to experience Benihana’s famed teppanyaki grill tables where highly skilled and entertaining English speaking chefs will slice, grill and season your order in front of your eyes. Being based in the Helmut Jahn designed Cosmopolitan skyscraper, we suggest you order one of their Japanese inspired, sake based Cosmopolitan cocktails to sip with your meal.QE‑7, ul. Twarda 4, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 370 26 20, www.benihanapoland.com. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€€€. T­U­ 6­W

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App

LITTLE SICILY IN THE HEART OF WARSAW “TRATTORIA DA ANTONIO ITALIAN FLAVORS AND SICILIAN TEMPERAMENT”

Żurawia 18 street Phone: +48 22 625 54 17

www.trattoriadaantonio.pl restauracjatrattoriadaantonio trattoriadaantonio

Aleje Jerozolimskie 119 Phone: +48 22 629 39 69

Silk&Spicy is a beautiful and delicious destination that connects the two exotic world cuisines of Thailand and Japan.

The philosophy of Silk&Spicy: food determines your consciousness, pleasure and harmony

Żurawia 16 street Phone: +48 22 629 70 12

www.silkandspicy.pl silkandspicy silk_and_spicy

Francuska 49 street Phone: +48 660 447 941

Restaurants SOTO SUSHI Warsaw’s Sushi glitterati have always rated the original Soto Sushi on Al. KEN very highly indeed, with many devotees regularly making the pilgrimage to deepest, darkest Ursynów in order to visit their favourite shrine. Well, now they don’t need to bother, Soto have opened another branch in the centre of the city! The crisp white and minimal interior highlighted with pale green neon wall lighting makes for a rather sterile look which made me think of those ultra-violet fly zappers in butcher’s shops, probably just my overactive imagination though. On the other hand, the overall look of this sushi bar presents a feeling of cleanliness and order which is reflected in the beautifully presented and carefully prepared sushi. The salmon tartare gunkanmaki is yummy and a special mention has to be made for the killer lemon pepper shrimp soup.QG‑10, ul. Waryńskiego 28, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 501 60 88 06, www.sotosushi.pl.

Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. T­6­W UKI UKI Who would have thought it? A Japanese place in Warsaw and it’s not a sushi bar! Well, that’s not strictly true, there is a short sushi selection on the menu but their speciality is freshly made udon or ramen noodles served in pork or fish broth with a variety of accompaniments; Tempura shrimp, stewed pork etc. Watch head chef Taira Matsuki and his skilled team preparing the dishes in the open kitchen and chat with the enthusiastic staff about the ritual of eating your noodles. Prepare yourself for a strenuous workout while grinding your sesame seeds with a traditional Japanese mortar and pestle.QG‑9, ul. Krucza 23/31, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 428 26 96, www.ukiuki.pl.

Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€. 6­W WABU SUSHI & JAPANESE TAPAS NEW Sometimes stiff formality and pretence go hand in hand with fine dining venues, and although the food may be great, overall it all feels, uch...tiring. It’s therefore nice to experience exclusive dining in the Japanese Izakaya style (informal eating) restaurant. Wabu is very much a place for all types of people, from businessmen, families to tourists, so relax and enjoy. The interior is a minimal and elegantly unfussy gem, going for that old Japanese look, blending in nicely with its modern surroundings on Plac Europejski. The menu is varied, inclusive of what you’d expect in sushi restaurants, however, Wabu also provide a kids menu, a mighty lunch menu (12:00-15:00) and a tasting menu - a selection of 5 dishes for 120zł. The alcohol menu is extensive and bound to please everybody. Wabu is simple and elegant. Recommended.

QC‑7, Plac Europejski 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 668 92 59 59, www.wabu.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. T­6­W

MEDITERRANEAN AÏOLI CANTINE Turning communist-era commercial space into an appealing dining destination is no easy illusion, but Aioli’s urban canteen aesthetic turns the trick with aplomb.

Dominated by two large circular bars - one around the 88 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Restaurants kitchen hung with colanders and racks of prosciutto, the other an actual drink bar ringed with wine glasses - wooden furnishings dressed with fresh herbs do much to dispel the brick and concrete, while excellent service further elevates the atmosphere. The short menu of salads, pasta and pizza, plus some great breakfasts (weekdays 09:00-12:00) and at the weekends coffee costs only 1 Polish grosz, makes the most of each option by including tantalising ingredients (many of which you can take home in jars) and the prices are very reasonable. 2nd location on ul. Chmielna 26.QF‑7, ul. Świętokrzyska 18, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 657 21 26, www.aioli-cantine.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. €€. T­U­6­W L’AVANTI RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR There are two things to know about L’avanti before you go: 1.

This is a nice day-time restaurant. 2. It’s a great evening venue (p.?) where you get a private barman serving you drinks and making cocktails. I could continue with my numbered list of preferences, but where’s the fun in that? Focusing on daytime, you have a choice of Mediterranean dishes mixed with a European/Polish flare. We went for zander with mussel sauce and potato purée, and a pizza for good measure too (nice thin base). The desserts deserve special mention, with the crumbs on our laps proof of the gluttony which overtook us.QE‑7, ul. Grzybowska 5, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 299 30 08, www.lavanti.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €€. T­W ORZO PEOPLE MUSIC NATURE Originally AïOLI Mini on Plac Konstytucji (yes, originally the sister venue for Warsaw’s popular AïOLI Cantine), Orzo has branched out to do its own thing! Flying the coup, Orzo’s interior is a warm, chirpy, neo-industrial space and a great place to come for some grub. The reasonably-priced and large portioned menu offers breakfasts (daily from 09:00 - 12:00, ask about coffee specials), lunches (Mon-Fri 12:00 - 17:00,19.90zł or 29.90zł, depending on how much you want to eat), burgers, salads, pastas, pizzas, tapas and cocktails. Orzo has a great variety without skimping back on quality!QG‑10, Pl. Konstytucji 5, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 629 25 40, www.orzo.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00. Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. €€€. T­6­W RESTAURACJA OLIVA Take a well-deserved break from the racket of Nowy Świat and visit this unpretentious yet smart, light and airy restaurant on the quiet ul. Ordynacka. The Mediterranean based menu includes a healthy dose of homemade pasta dishes which are created to their own recipes. As the name suggests, the menu is strongly influenced by the use of olive oil and the restaurant also has a display of fine olive oils from a number of countries for sale. Staff get full marks from us for neither pretending to be your best mate, nor seeing you as their worst enemy - they get it just right.

Considering the ambience and quality, prices are excellent.

QG‑7, ul. Ordynacka 10/12, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 70 60, www.restauracjaoliva.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. €€€. T­6­W warsaw.inyourpocket.com 89

Restaurants MIDDLE EASTERN LOKANTA Lokanta certainly feels a nice place to be, especially after the recent refit, and right in the heart of the city centre too. Starting with a glitzy neon entrance, these guys have maintained (for a good few years now) Poland’s love affair with all things orient, and part of their image makeover sees the launch of Turkish style dance parties – a right hip-wiggle fest if ever we saw. Nevertheless, the bread and butter of Lokanta remains the food, and you’ll find the full ensemble of traditional dishes making their way out of wood-fired ovens and charcoal grills. Check out the decent lunch menu, served daily 12:00-16:00, costing maximum 40zł.QF‑9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 585 10 04, www.lokanta.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. €€€. T­W SOKOTRA The restaurant takes its name from the isolated Yemeni island of Sokotra, a geographic location once described as “the most alien-looking place on earth.” Warsaw’s Sokotra is neither isolated nor alien-looking, it’s situated in the city centre and its interior is a cool modernist take on the simplest of Arabic design. Traditional Yemeni cuisine is heavily influenced by Indian, reflected by the heavy, rich and well-seasoned sauces with most of the dishes here ideal for some serious roti dipping. The lentil, lemon and green chilli soup was stunning and the mutton, okra and tomato dish was great. There’s standard table dining if you’ve just had your hip replaced, or try the cushioned floor sitting area for an even more authentic experience.QG‑9, ul. Wilcza 27, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 270 27 66. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€. T­U­6­W

POLISH ALEGLORIA Magnificent, enjoyably over-the-top restaurant in the finest part of Warsaw where the strawberry-themed decor appears amazingly at home and where the modern Polish Fusion cuisine - often featuring strawberries and goose specialties - will leave you determined to come back for more. It is rare that a restaurant can so seamlessly present the pure pleasure and simplicity of Polish cuisine while at the same time elevating it to world-class gourmet standards. AleLujah!QH‑9, Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 584 70 80, www.alegloria.pl.

Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€€. T­U­W AMBER ROOM Set inside the Sobański Palace what was (and indeed still is) the domain of the Polish Business Round Table Club has now opened its doors to the paying public. From the outside it looks the sort of place you’d see Prince Charles walking around shaking hands, though inside, and in spite of the marble and chandeliers, it’s a well designed area with more than a nod to modernist touches. The seasonal menu includes such must-haves as beef fillet, homemade 90 Warsaw In Your Pocket

fries, green beans with shallot, béarnaise sauce. Of course, such pleasures aren’t cheap, but then neither are they in the astronomic zone you’d be likely to presume.QH‑10, Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. (+48) 22 523 66 64, www.amberroom.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€€.

T­W BELVEDERE Nestled inside Łazienki Park, Belvedere is a romantic orangery filled with foliage and a smattering of well-dressed tables both inside and out. Having undergone a head to toe renovation, Belvedere is a stunningly dramatic venue with peacocks wandering the grounds and multiple waiters offering first class service. The food lives up to the atmosphere. Your options include a weekday lunch menu (called the Bellunch menu) consisting of a 2 course set for 71zł or 3 course set for 81zł, a weekend a la carte option, and brunch option 12:00-16:30 for 199zł (kids menu also available). Few places in Warsaw are this classy or this expensive, and dare we say women are right to assume a booking here means something big is in order.QI‑12, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in Łazienki Park, entrance from ul. Parkowa), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 558 67 00, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€€€. T­E­W BRASSERIE WARSZAWSKA From the fine folks behind the peerless Butchery & Wine comes Brasserie Warszawska - a culinary capstone that will surely court the attention of the folks at Michelin. Praise is well-deserved here with exquisitely prepared and presented cuisine matched by expert service in an interior that feels both modern and classic. It’s an accessible type of elegant that means no ties are necessary, so come as you are to sample this mix of Polish and international cuisine. A fine range of cocktails is available to wash down with your food.

The à la carte menu is on offer all day, lunch menu 12:0016:00 Mon-Fri and dinner/supper menu 12:00-22:00 MonSat. Please note, there is a ‘technical break’ 16:00-17:00 and no orders are taken.QI‑9, ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. (+48) 22 628 94 23, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.

Closed Sun. €€€€. T­U­W CAFE MOZAIKA Mozaika was once a legendary restaurant of the communist era. It battled through the changes in Poland and refused to budge from its old school ways - an admirable stance, but one which needed a kick in the behind. The new owner has brilliantly fused the old and the new, not only in the design but also with the zappy traditional Polish menu and a separate range of Mediterranean dishes. Hip and cool it may be but they have also managed not to ostracise the former clientele. Saturdays 70’s-80’s Disco evenings are enormous fun, with elderly ladies and gentlemen gyrating on the dance floor, while hipsters sit around picking at mezze dishes while sipping on craft beers and fine wines. A modern Warsaw rarity where all types of people mix easily and everyone feels at home.QH‑14, ul. Puławska 53, tel. (+48) 884 80 87 73, www.restauracjamozaika.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €€. T­U­W

Restaurants

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Restaurants CUD MIÓD Cud Miód is certainly keen on having something for everyone. The interior is a mix of rustic Polish/European elements with some modern style fittings. The menu is an odd mix; a host of traditionally based Polish dishes, Mediterranean offerings, seafood, fusion, burgers, pizza, pasta and even curry pops up on the list. A casual and attractive venue particularly suited to those who can peruse this type of menu and not change their minds every 30 seconds!QF‑9, ul. Emilii Plater 28 (entrance from ul.

Nowogrodzka 56), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 630 30 39, www.cudmiod.pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €€€. T­U­6­W CZERWONY WIEPRZ Workers of the world unite around a large choice of wellpresented Socialist Bloc cuisine. Deriving its name from a former meeting place for members of the early communist movement, legend has it that even Lenin paid this place a visit in 1909. The interior is based on the style favoured by the 1950’s -1960’s party elite, and the walls are bedecked with memorabilia of the era. Somehow the owners have managed to carefully side swerve tackiness and the whole experience has a lovely, faded and nostalgic glam to it.

Immensely popular with locals and tourists alike (including Bruce Willis, Lennox Lewis and the Real Madrid football squad), 2012 saw ‘The Hog’ voted one of the 25 best and most interesting restaurants in the world by the Spanish Trade Leaders’ Club.QC‑7, ul. Żelazna 68, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 850 31 44, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. T­U­W DAWNE SMAKI It’s great to find a traditional Polish restaurant amongst the endless string of international eateries on Nowy Świat.

Dawne Smaki thrives on old style Polish cooking, so get ready to sample a comprehensive range of home-grown specialities. The whole spectrum is pretty much covered, from the basics like herrings in oil, pig’s trotters in aspic, pierogi, right up to some high class mains like loin of venison and hand chopped steak tartare. Of note is their cart containing slow food. Find Kasztelan and Grimbergen beers on tap, plus live music every night and “theme” nights starting at 19:30. Private parties can rent a VIP space too.

QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 49, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 465 83 20, www.dawnesmaki.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. T­U­E­6­W DOM POLSKI Much ink has been spilt over the virtues of Dom Polski, some of it in these pages, but there is no getting away from the fact that this is a great restaurant. And we’re quite right to say this, as it’s been in business for 20 years - 2018 marks this impressive milestone (no mean feat in Poland!), which we are delighted to celebrate. Found in a discreet villa on Warsaw’s millionaires’ row in the fancy Saska Kępa area (p.53), you can expect Rolls Royce service from the minute you walk in. The food is equally great, chosen from a menu which is mercifully short, with just a couple 92 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Restaurants of starters and several main courses to choose from; how it should be, in other words. We went for the żurek followed by the potato pancakes with smoked salmon and red caviar and, really, we couldn’t fault a thing. To experience the service and food here, is to understand why this simple but effective model has worked for so long. Happy Birthday, Dom Polski.QL‑7, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 22 616 24 32, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€€. W DOM POLSKI BELWEDERSKA This is the second location of one of Warsaw’s most venerable, trusted and exclusive Polish restaurants.

Achieving the seemingly impossible, they’ve succeeded in making their second outing even more elegant and inviting than the first. The pristine interiors correspond perfectly to the carefully manicured menu of Polish classics - emphasis on ‘class.’ The goose liver mousse with fruits and hot blackberry jam is a clear standout, as are the wild game mains with extra points for the sumptuous saddle of venison served with plum dumplings and cherry sauce. Simply extravagant.QI‑13, ul. Belwederska 18A, MPole Mokotowskie, tel. (+48) 22 840 50 60, www. restauracjadompolski.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€€. W ELIXIR BY DOM WÓDKI When we first heard of Elixir we instinctively thought, surely someone has already thought of this? Unbelievably, nobody had - so, top marks to the masterminds behind this classy establishment. At their Vodka Atelier you can try over 500 vodkas from around Poland and the globe; the range goes from PRL era classics to Polish ‘small batch’ distillers, designer vodkas, flavoured vodkas and culminates in the staggeringly priced “Młody Ziemniak 2009”(480zł a pop!). The restaurant itself features stunningly presented, contemporary takes on Polish classics with a “food pairing” system which recommends specific vodkas to complement the ingredients and flavours of each dish.

An Absolut (pardon the pun!) top-spot and a truly unique venue on Warsaw’s culinary map.QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 11, www. domwodki.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. T­W FOLK GOSPODA Far from promising on the outside, Folk Gospoda unravels on entry as a glorious slice of traditional Poland. It’s inside a rugged interior of stout furnishings and ceramic pots you’ll find boys and girls in peasant attire rushing around carrying plates of fortifying Polish food (think heaps of duck). Indeed, the Polish highlands meet the city inside Gospoda, and that’s never more so than when the band strikes up to hoot and holler over the sound of busy diners.

On weekends the restaurant thoughtfully employs a kids corner with child minders from 13:00 - 18:00 so you can properly focus on your food. They also offer 15% off all take away orders.QD‑7, ul. Waliców 13, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 890 16 05, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€. T­U­W warsaw.inyourpocket.com 93

Restaurants STEAK

Beef n’ Pepper

BEEF N’ PEPPER Hidden away in a small alleyway alongside the famous Roma Theatre, the exterior may well look like you’re about to enter a 1970’s shopping mall diner outside Lubbock TX, but inside it’s a smart, urban steakhouse and bar. Expect top grade Polish cattle (28 days wetaged) - the quality is excellent and the fact that they use the finest local meat means that prices are surprisingly reasonable. Seafood options and Louisiana Chicken Wings struggle for a look-in as beef rules in this kingdom. In addition to a fine wine list, the slick bar also has a brilliant selection of whiskies and bourbons. Live music is available every Tuesday from 19:00.QF‑9, ul.

Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 785 02 50 25, www.beefandpepper.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€€. T­E­6­W BUTCHERY & WINE A wonderful addition to the Warsaw dining scene winning points for originality and simplicity. This bright, modern, relaxed venue has an open kitchen and enough wine on display to float a battleship.

The menu features a range of real steaks prepared exactly to order and served on wooden boards with additional sauce and side options.QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 22/20, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 502 31 18, www. butcheryandwine.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 20:00. €€€€. T­W MERLINIEGO Restaurants using their address as a name tend to be pretty special and Merliniego is a damn good example of that rule. Well known for their steaks and seafoods the menu also includes some excellent Polish highlights like duck and lamb loin. Steaks include black Angus rib eye (imported from Ottomanelli & Sons of New York) and the staggeringly pricey +9 Wagyu Kobe. The two level interior is rich in deep colours, raw brickwork and exotic woods. Marvel at the vast wine display as you enter. Michelin recommended in both 2017 and 2018, enough said!.QH‑16, ul. Merliniego 5, MWierzbno, tel. (+48) 696 16 90 90, www.merliniego.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€€. T­W 94 Warsaw In Your Pocket

GOŚCINIEC POLSKIE PIEROGI Walking towards the Old Town, you’re going to feel an air of nostalgia come over you. The location is stunning, the buildings have their unique style, and this whole area sums up the traditional romantic image of Poland. To top it off, you’re going to want to try some traditional Polish grub, right? Gościniec has just that, right at the entrance to the Old Town, with hearty food from soups, pierogi, potato pancakes and various meat offerings, all at very reasonable prices. You can’t go wrong with pierogi, but we’d personally also recommend the cabbage rolls stuffed with meat! The drinks on offer too are quite funky, from cold to warm options, all served up by the friendly staff wearing traditional Polish attire! They have other locations further back on ul.

Nowy Świat 41, and deeper into the Old Town on Podwale 19, should you choose to venture some more before eating.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 29, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 273 69 36, www.gosciniec.waw.pl.

Open 11:00 - 22:30. Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:30. €. T­6 KUCHNIA WARSZAWSKA Located on the first floor of the Logos Hotel, a cold war period oddity filled with the character of that era, Kuchnia Warszawska is a brilliantly hidden away gem serving classics of Warsaw cuisine. The restaurant interior has been tastefully refitted and the pale colour scheme makes it all wonderfully airy and fresh. Considering the extremely reasonable prices, the elegant, friendly and professional staff, excellent local dishes and attention to detail (the steak tartare is minced fresh table side by one of their Chefs), these guys are seriously punching above their weight.

For an added surprise, ask to see the private hire room a full on and original, late 1960’s PRL meeting room with amazing views of the Vistula Riverbank.QI‑6, Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 31/33, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 730 77 89 22, www.kuchnia-warszawska.pl. Open 06:30 - 20:00. Fri, Sat 06:30 - 21:00. €€. T­U­E­6­W LAS NEW Walk off the street and into what feels like the side kitchen to the secret garden, with its swing, outside seating, leafy surroundings, ahhh, it’s nice... until a train wooshes past on the nearby track. Don’t let that put you off, for inside, the leafy theme continues. Here you’ll find a very modern and hip take on Polish cuisine using seasonal ingredients, and great cocktails to match (returning in the evening is a must). The portions are just right, with very ingenious presentations of what may otherwise have been considered bland looking, but always tasty, Polish staple foods. No matter what the season, this is definitely a great place to eat, and relax with a drink. If you’re near the river, a quick visit wouldn’t go amiss.

QI‑7, ul. Solec 44, MCantrum Nauki Kopernika, tel. +48 514 76 07 67, www.las.warszawa.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Mon closed. €€.

LITERATKA Located in the shadow of Zygmunt’s column on the Warsaw’s poshest street, Literatka is a traditional Polish restaurant with a cosy feel and an impressive range of Polski

Restaurants and international dishes. Pierogi, pork and duck all make an appearance as well as a more than acceptable sirloin steak. It’s not bad at all and a suitable way to finish a day ploughing the tourist trail in the adjacent old town, and the Mon-Fri lunch special (12:00-17:00 soup and a main for 19zl) is a deal.QF‑4, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89 (second entrance from ul. Senatorska 3), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 30 54, www.literatka.com.pl.

Open 10:00 - 23:00. €€€. T­6­W MOKOTOWSKA 69 Every Varsovian is familiar with the funny little round, folly of a building situated at the Plac Trzech Krzyży end of ul.

Mokotowska. Part space station, part rustic farm building it was home to the German restaurant, Adler, for as long as anyone can remember. Times change though and under the new ownership of Merliniego 5’s steak kings, Andrzej Rudnicki-Sipayłło and Bartek Czerwiński, it has reopened as an elegant little restaurant serving up an inspired menu of traditionally influenced Polish cuisine. The seasonal menu does not shy away from some more unusual Polish offerings like breaded calf’s brain, Mazurian catfish sauteed with horseradish and paradise apples, or Mazurian crayfish.

The less adventurous are also well catered for and, with Andrzej and Bartek at the controls, their world class steaks and the brilliantly selected wine list are never far from your thoughts.QH‑9, ul. Mokotowska 69, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 628 73 84, www.mokotowska69.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€€. U­6­W MOMU MOMU has reshaped its image entirely and have almost literally rebuilt their kitchen around an imported American Southern smoker. Now they specialise in grilled and smoked meats, fish, fruit and even cheeses. Their smoker is fed daily by freshcut aromatic wood from the Łomianki forest outside Warsaw. The smoked theme carries over to the cocktail menu as the skilful bartenders whip up creative cocktails using savoury and spicy smoked ingredients (their wine, beer and whiskey selection is also sublime). The slightly austere white brick interiors are compensated for by the colourful pallet of the dishes on offer. The staff are casual, quick and eager to make your visit a memorable one. You surely won’t forget the place once you’ve listened to the live music available Thu, Fri & Sat 20:00-23:00.QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11 (entrance from Pl. Teatralny), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 506 10 00 01, www.momu.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€€. T­E­6­W RESTAURACJA POLONIA A classy restaurant serving Polish/International cuisine inside the elegant confines of the Polonia Palace. Stop by for their special “Polish Evenings” on Fridays 18:00-22:30 with a delicious multi-course tasting menu available for 36120 zł per person. This is a great place to get some food, and not only if you are a hotel guest.QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 45 (Polonia Palace Hotel), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 318 28 34, www.poloniapalace.com. Open 06:30 - 10:00, 18:00 - 22:30; Sat, Sun 06:30 - 10:30, 18:00 - 22:30. €€€€.

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Restaurants QUICK EATS & DELIVERY Your body might be a temple, but there comes a time when even the leanest of machines needs to be filled with burgers, chips and calories. Here we list some great little quick eat places, all in the aim of dissing the familiar fast food franchises intent on global domination (all of which you can probably find in the food court on the top of all the city’s shopping malls) alongside their small-fry local competitors. Choose wisely. If it’s fast and local you’re looking for (isn’t that why you’re here?), you might also try a Polish milk bar or Polish Snacks & Shots bars (p.103), both of which we feature in their own sections elsewhere.

BAR SALAD STORY Fast food gets the health treatment in Salad Story, a chain of outlets serving salads, sandwiches and soups.

Also at ul. Krucza 41/43 (G-7), ul. Nowy Świat 18/20 (G8), ul. Piękna 11 (G-10), ul. Polna 46 (F-10) and ul. Prosta 32 (C-8),QE‑8, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 883 64 44 45, www.saladstory.com.

Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. €. U GROOLE Who loves potatoes?! We love potatoes! If you don’t, then unfortunately, there’s not much for you here. This great place has a simple business model - make big jacket potatoes and fill them up with whatever you want! The staff will helpfully guide you through your topping choices in English (gluten free, vegetarian and vegan options all available) and we recommend a ‘Grooldog’ - a potato filled with hot dogs (or soya sausage alternative)! This is most definitely a popular student place and may be hard at times to find a seat!

Other than that, we love it!QG‑10, ul. Śniadeckich 8, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 795 63 36 26, www. groole.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. €.

T­6­W UWOLNIĆ KURY NEW We always raise an eyebrow when we hear of a vegan venue which prides itself on making food sourced only from vegetables. especially with some main ingredients being vegan chicken and vegan bacon.

Basically, the food may have names to remind you of a life once lived as a carnivore, but the meals on offer provide a tasty and nutritious boost. We enjoyed some hot boxes, Thai Tofu and and Le Mexicana, along with some fries, lemonades and smoothies, all very filling!

With more vegan places opening up around Warsaw, it’s safe to say the old concept of vegan food being bland and tasteless is worthy of flushing down the toilet. A decent quick eat option right in the city centre.

QG‑7, ul. Chmielna 23, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 692 41 60. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Sun 12:00 - 21:00.

T­U­6­W 96 Warsaw In Your Pocket

PRODIŻ WARSZAWSKI This restaurant takes its name from a cult piece of PRL era kitchen equipment, the Prodiż - a plug in, one pot pressure cooker/broiler that any self respecting family simply had to have. In the restaurant, one has been converted into a lamp and hangs on the brick lined walls. Other vintage items like enamelware mugs and demijohns add to the decor and rather than looking tacky, look more like the work of an obsessive and focussed collector. The Polish menu doesn’t mess about and doesn’t attempt to ‘fix what ain’t broken’, so expect expertly prepared and well presented Polish classics, as well as some hardcore traditional dishes like veal shank with mushrooms over vegetable purée or duck breast over cherry sauce with baked potatoes and salad with baked beetroot. No lounge/chill-out music here and they’re open until the last customer (seriously!) so be ready to open your minds to Polish hits of the 1950s-60s!QF‑9, ul. Poznańska 16, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 127 71 71, www.prodizwarszawski.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. 6­W RESTAURACJA RÓŻANA A two-floor pre-war villa full of chichi touches, flowers and crockery. Very pretty, but you’ll soon learn they attract return customers on account of the cooking, not the interiors. The setting might look high-end but the prices are certainly not, and you’ll find Różana recognised across the city as one of the best dinner deals around. The catfish fillet with white onion sauce, green pepper sauce with blanched spinach, garlic and black lentils is divine.

Plenty claim to be open till the last customer leaves, but only these guys are the real deal – if there’s people dining then the kitchen will stay open, and that doesn’t matter if it’s midnight or daybreak. Don’t be shy to stay and eat, the staff are happy to make sure you are 100% satisfied with your visit. Highly recommended.QH‑13, ul. Chocimska 7, MPole Mokotowskie, tel. (+48) 22 848 12 25, www. restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€.

T­E­W STARA KAMIENICA Located in a secessionist-era townhouse in the city centre, at first glance, Stara Kamienica comes across as a 1920’s furnished and dark wood detailed traditional restaurant.

Chandeliers, vases of fresh flowers, chintzy curtains, art deco mirrors and subdued lighting give the venue a quiet, old-world charm but it’s also more than that; changing art exhibitions, live music Wed-Sat starting at 19:00 and an interesting menu of traditional Polish and European classic dishes with a modern twist. Stop in during the day to try their lunch menu Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00.QG‑8, ul. Widok 8, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 114 43 33, www.starakamienica.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. E­6­W

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Restaurants U Fukiera, Warszawa, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, tel. +48 22 831 10 13, +48 600 999 933, email: fukier@ufukiera.pl, www.ufukiera.pl U Fukiera Restaurant is the oldest restaurant in Warsaw. Our tradition dates back to the beginning of the 16th century, when a famous wine merchant Grzegorz Korab built a house and opened a wine shop in its cellars.

Ever since it has remained a family business.

an invitation from

It has been 28 years since a family tradition was continued

by Magda Gessler, who created “U Fukiera” Restaurant that delights with a harmonious combination of taste, scent, sound and color complemented with sophisticated interiors. All along, they never forget to take great care for excellent service and attention to details.

The secret of U Fukiera’s special taste lies in produce, not only its legendary quality, but also in its provenance that determines the flavor. All that is best in flavor here comes solely from purest, superior and exclusive richness of our native produce. Here you will experience authentic, traditional gourmet Polish cuisine.

8

It is certainly worth to taste such magic.

U BARSSA The Old Town is packed with standard places to eat, but has traditionally been something of a desert when it comes to great places to eat. Times are a-changing. As you walk into the elegant dining room you will discover a world of luxury, craft and privilege. The Angus steak with green pepper sauce and truffle powder, and the signature duck a la Barssa baked with apples, cranberries and plum sauce accompanied by beet konfiture, caramelised apples and orange sauce are just a few of the treats you can expect, and we have yet to mention the wine list! They also have a huge summer garden and they offer live music on the weekends (occasionally midweek) so call ahead before you wine & dine to reserve your space in this charming place.

QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 12/14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 24 76, www.ubarssa.pl. Open 10:00 23:00. €€€. T­E­W U FUKIERA The most famous and oldest restaurant in town, and not by just a few years, we’re talking about a tradition going way back to the 16th century! Taken under the wing of Magda Gessler, of Poland’s MasterChef fame, this classy place has a guestbook that speaks for itself; Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson are a few of the names who’ve taken a seat here. And no wonder. The magical interior is a work of art, crowded with paintings and antiques, all blending with the tastes and scents of your food to create a fantastic ambience - it’s hard not to

feel a part of history when dining here. The food is the perfect indulgence with perfectly presented game dishes.

This is a truly fine dining experience right in the heart of Warsaw’s Old Town. Enjoy the great food and soak up the atmosphere (order up until 22:00). Check out their website for a 360 degree multimedia tour of the venue before you go - quite fun!QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 10 13, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. T­W WARSZAWA WSCHODNIA Not content with running a rather large number of restaurants in the city centre, the Gessler clan set their sights on the never-quite-rejuvenated area of postindustrial Praga with this popular venture in the trendy Soho Factory complex. One of the two main brick walled rooms is vast, the smaller room has a central kitchen area which diners sit around and watch the frantic goings-on of the chefs at work (there is also a third room available plus a VIP room by reservation only). Ultimately, this ‘island’ eating concept is rather irritating, noisy and a tad ‘aromatic’ in our opinion. Mind you, none of that stops the young, rich and beautiful from piling in here. The kitchen, under the command of Robert Kondziela, presents a modern take on Polish classics and contemporary French cuisine, and serves it ‘round the clock.QM‑4, ul. Mińska 25 (Praga Południe), MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 22 870 29 18, www.mateuszgessler.com.pl. Open 24hrs. €€€. T­U­ E­6­W warsaw.inyourpocket.com 97

Restaurants ZAPIECEK Packed at all hours, this pierogi kitchen assumes the ‘Grandmother’s country cottage’ look, with pots and pans hanging from every shelf, and lots of hard timber touches.

Much talked about, their deliciously light dough pockets come with all the fillings you can imagine. If you don’t fancy a sit down then check their street-level takeaway window for lunch-on-the-run. Also at Al. Jerozolimskie 28 (G-8), ul. Freta 18 (F-3), ul. Wańkowicza 1 (Kabaty), ul.

Freta 1 (F-3), ul. Świętojańska 13 (F-4), and ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 55 (G-5).QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 64, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 692 41 35, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 24:00. €€. T

the team behind the superb Casa Pablo, so you know to expect great things. The authentic and traditional range of around 30 tapas dishes are representative of the many regions of Spain and the kitchen is run by a chef from Saragossa whose passion for the art could well be unsurpassed in the city. Organising a private event (bdays, business meeting, anniversaries etc.)?

You can rent the whole place out if need be. Quite brilliant!QC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 63 (entrance from ul.

Wronia), MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 251 13 10, www.tapasgastrobar.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€. T­U­6­W

ZIELONY NIEDZWIEDŹ What starts off as a simple-looking and easy to find address actually ends up leading you into the greenery of the Karol Beyer Park - hardly a bad thing as it makes a nice and tranquil setting for the restaurant. The highly professional kitchen turns out wonderfully presented, traditional and obscure dishes of the highest quality.

But this is much more than a mere restaurant - it’s also a sensational delicatessen which even has a regular fish market with fresh fish and shellfish flown in directly from Portugal.QH‑7, ul. Smolna 4, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 795 79 47 84, www.kafezn.pl. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00; Mon 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€€. T­U­S­6­W

EL POPO Singing parrots and serenading Spaniards; El Popo sure know how to add the dynamite to dining. Having suffered something of an identity crisis not long back El Popo have emerged stronger for the experience, serving sizzling fajitas matched with sharp, spicy peppers. Always busy, and for good reason too.QF‑5, ul. Senatorska 27, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 23 40. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.

T­E­6­W

SOUTH AMERICAN CEVICHE BAR It usually takes a good few months for Warsaw to catch up with current international food fads but this one has been worth the wait. The new baby of Argentinian super-chef Martin Gimenez Castro, presents a short list of ceviche dishes (seasoned raw fish, cured in citrus juices popular around the coastal regions of South America). For a deepsea thrill of a lifetime, order the Ceviche Langostinos - shrimp combined with maracuja and coconut milk.

The menu also includes soups, salads, empanadas and a brilliant list of South American classic and signature cocktails. The smartly casual interior is highlighted with a 1950’s style mural of Aztec inspired images, a buzzing open kitchen and a mirror wall which makes this smallish bar look massive. Check out their lunch, Mon-Fri from 12:0015:00.QE‑7, ul. Twarda 2/4, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 304 94 02, www.cevichebar.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€€. T­6­W

SPANISH TAPAS GASTROBAR There can be no better recommendation for this smart, yet simply designed tapas bar than the fact that they have been known to reduce some of their Spanish customers to tears as their minds hurtle back to the real tastes of home. The bar is the brainchild of 98 Warsaw In Your Pocket

TEX-MEX

LA SIRENA: THE MEXICAN FOOD CARTEL Innovative concept, for Warsaw at least! Find the dodgiest looking building on ul.Piękna (ironically, it means Beautiful Street), subhead it a ‘Cartel’ for maximum effect, design a fantastic Posada, woodcut style ‘Day of the Dead’ take on Warsaw’s mermaid coat of arms symbol (which looks far better in its printed version, rather than the neon on the exterior wall), devise a splendid and exotic Mexican menu plus a brilliant drinks/cocktail list and watch the customers flood into this brilliant mini-establishment. Far more like ‘Cheers’ than ‘The Titty Twister’ from Robert Rodriquez’ Mexican vampire flick ‘From Dusk till Dawn’. Te quiero La Sirena!QG‑10, ul. Piękna 54, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 690 08 50 54. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:30. €€. T­U­6­W RICO NEW Found on an unassuming corner of al. Jana Pawła II, one of Warsaw’s main arteries, near two major museums (Pawiak Prison and POLIN) this Tex-Mex restaurant turned out to be a bit of an eye-opener, not least due to the colourful themed artwork of the interior. Entering, you can be forgiven for thinking this is no more than a tiny venue, however, the stairs lead to a larger, equally colourful space downstairs. The bar is well stocked (and not just with alcohol) and the food hit the tasty spot for us, after a long yearning for good Tex-Mex. The Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 lunch menu is worth noting: burgers, burritos and quesedillas come with a lemonade included in the price, and all this followed by 2-for-1 happy hour on the same days 16:0018:00. Not bad, not bad.QC‑4, al. Jana Pawła II 61/204, MRatusz-Arsenał, tel. (+48) 600 60 07 70. Open 12:00 22:00. Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€. T­U­ 6­W

Restaurants

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Restaurants THAI SILK & SPICY No expense has been spared on the lush, perfectly designed interior and it’s nice to see a little ray of sunshine along the less salubrious end of ul. Żurawia. Sushi and Thai battle it out on the menu, and since we would rather go for Sushi in a small clinically white sushi bar, Thai wins the day! A good tester for any Warsaw Thai venture is Tom Kha Gai; weighing in at a rather hefty 25zł for a bowl of soup, we were relieved that this one was pretty tasty despite suffering from the rather common lack of ‘chilli kick’.

Unfortunately the average Polish palate still dreads the fiery fruit, and restaurants compensate accordingly. Be aware of the obsession with weekend reservations, even when the place is half empty. Also found in the Praga district on ul. Francuska 49, where this time we went for Sushi and were delighted with the taste!QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 16/20, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 70 12, www.silkandspicy. pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. T­W THAISTY As soon as you walk in the bustling crowds will greet you, as will a wall of savoury sweet and spicy aromas wafting from the open kitchen. Settle into a cosy booth, or if you’re flying solo grab a stool at the communal table in the middle. After pouring over the atypical menu we decided to go with a few recommendations (marked with arrows) from Thai head chef Chanunkan Duangkumma. The Peking bun was an absolute revelation as the delicate duck meat just melted in our mouths. We followed with the crispy oyster mushroom salad which was perhaps the most interesting textured and flavoured “Thai” dish we’ve ever tried. Thaisty is not only the real deal, it’s really a great deal!QE‑5, Pl. Bankowy 4, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 730 00 00 24, www.thaisty. pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Mon 16:00 - 23:00. €€. T­6­W THAI THAI Run by the Godfather of Warsaw’s Thai cuisine, Surachart Urajaroen, this restaurant is 100% the real deal. No messing around with fusion concepts or little Polish additions. The five strong Thai kitchen team stick firmly to tradition and the results are spectacular. Based in the National Theatre building itself, the exterior of hefty, grey stonework gives you no inkling of the opulent interior which awaits you. Black walls decorated with Thai designs and gold curved ceilings create a very calming and relaxing environment. The well laid out seating areas also offer you the option of dining in a more private space, great for business meetings or an intimate dinner date.QF‑5, Pl. Teatralny 3, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 601 81 82 83, www.thaithai.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. X­T­W

UKRAINIAN KAMANDA LWOWSKA Here’s a restaurant that gets back to basics, offering up a cavalcade of dishes that have been otherwise deleted from modern Warsaw. Featuring peasant pictures and brick ceilings this isn’t the experiment in vanity you expect of ul. Foksal, 100 Warsaw In Your Pocket

choosing instead to hark to the times when Ukrainian Lviv was actually Polish Lwów. The emphasis is firmly on the good old days – before moustached dictators started dictating Poland’s borders – and the design is a pleasing jumble of craftwork and clutter. The menu, too, has been painstakingly perfected, and includes such masterstrokes as tartare and a meringue cake with raspberry mousse.QH‑7, ul. Foksal 10, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 31, www. kamandalwowska.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. T­E­W

VEGETARIAN LOKAL VEGAN BISTRO This communally run “local” restaurant have achieved the impossible: they serve up hot and hearty plates of VEGAN Polish dishes that are often more delicious than their porkheavy counterparts. What is more, they change their entire menu every two weeks so unless you check out their FB page you won’t know exactly what to find. Alongside vegan ‘cutlets’, cabbage concoctions and beet soups, you’ll also find plenty of more exotic international dishes plus a few surprises. Huge portions, fresh ingredients, cheap prices (Mon-Fri 12-16, a lunch menu consisting of a ‘cutlet’, soup and kompot drink for 25zł), a buzzing friendly atmosphere filled with locals all add up to be one of the best spots for a healthy lunch or dinner in the city centre.QG‑9, ul. Krucza 23/31, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 517 61 51 22. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. €. T­U­6­W VEG DELI Situated on a tranquil tree-lined residential street in the Powiśle area of the city, Veg Deli has certainly managed to up the ante regarding vegetarian restaurants in Warsaw.

The freshly prepared vegetarian, vegan and gluten free dishes are richly coloured, fragrant and look, smell and taste amazing; there’s even a bar serving alcohol. Even seasoned carnivores such as us were knocked out by the food and natural drinks on offer.QH‑6, ul. Radna 14, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 733 66 98 74, www.vegdeli.pl.

Open 12:00 - 20:30. Sun 12:00 - 19:30. €€. 6­W

VIETNAMESE DU-ZA MI-HA Kebabs are fine but every now and then we all want something a little different for a late-night feast. That’s where Duza comes in. Noodles of all types with an endless variety of sauces and mixes, and the spicy beef ramen, Hong Kong duck and Shoyu ramen all come at great prices. To the delight of anyone who has eaten a three in the morning shoarma too many - it’s open 24 hours at weekends. Also at ul. Jasna 24, ul.

Puławska 82.QF‑7, ul. Złota 3, MCentrum. Open 10:00 22:00, Fri, Sat open 24hrs, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. €. 6

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App

Poland’s national drink has many exciting variations for you to try… | © Fabrizio Sciami

4 Polish Alcohols You Have to Try …plus several others that also work…

Polish Alcohol VODKA TRANSLATOR Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world, many of which date back centuries. The most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere, Chopin, Luksusowa, Ostoya, Pan Tadeusz and Wyborowa, all of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop.

Bottoms up with classy drinks at Woda Ognista (p.110)

1. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA

Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. Though it comes in a variety of flavours, the original orange label (‘tradycyny’) is an aged, amber-coloured liquor flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa has a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything you’re likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, we prefer it on ice.

2. ŻUBRÓWKA

One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka - also known as Bison Grass Vodka - has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century.

Flavoured with a type of grass specific to the primeval Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste which has been described as ‘floral’ or having traces of almond or vanilla.

Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka’ or ‘szarlotka’ depending where you are.

3. KRUPNIK

Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet liquor made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking booze doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added.

4. MIÓD PITNY

Mead, or ‘drinkable honey,’ preceded beer’s arrival in Poland and has remained a favourite since the Middle Ages. Since 2008, Polish meads have been protected under EU law as a traditional regional specialty. Distilled from honey, the drink is extremely easy to consume and comes in four strengths with Połtorak being the strongest (15-18%).

While clear vodkas are generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mixing in cocktails, the real fun is in sampling Poland’s flavoured vodkas and nalewki - a more general term applied to a large range of Polish liqueurs and aged tinctures made from vodka or neutral spirits and fruits, herbs and spices. Vodka shot & snack bars like Pijalnia Wódki on ul. Nowy Świat 19 (G-8) are a great place to try them. Here are just some of the notable varieties you can find at the bar or shop.

Wiśniówka - cherry vodka Cytrynówka - lemon vodka Pigwówka - quince vodka Orzechówka - walnut vodka Piołunówka - wormwood liquor Wódka figowa - fig vodka Wódka śliwkowa - plum vodka Wódka gruszkowa - pear vodka

HOT BEER? Though the Polish winter is famous for being long and brutal, fear not, the Poles have a method for taking the bite out of this blustery season, and as you can probably guess - it’s alcohol (congratulations, Kowalski). For those in need of a warm-up that wince at the thought of vodka, we have two words for you: hot beer, or ‘grzane piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas present, and others still an utter profanity.

Regardless, it’s a necessary invention and a must-try (at least once) for anyone travelling in PL during the winter months. Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ - or mulled wine - as you’ll notice by the barrel-shaped stands selling cups of it on the market square during winter. The popular regional brand is Grzaniec Galicyjski and if you enjoy drinking it in public so much, you’ll be delighted to discover you can buy it in almost any alcohol shop and easily prepare it at home as well. Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...and Na zdrowie! warsaw.inyourpocket.com 103

Nightlife

All hail the self-serve ‘Beer Wall’ in the Alchemist Gastropub (p.109).

The explosion of bars and clubs in Warsaw means that you are never far from a fresh beer or decent nightspot.

On the other hand, it‘s still easy to find yourself stranded outside the bolted doors of a supposedly popular club on a Wednesday night, or ending up in a deserted bar. Local knowledge is a prerequisite to achieving a successful night out. Warsaw‘s young arty crowd prefer the down-at-heel clubs and bars that have popped up in the districts across the river: Stara Praga (H/I-4) and the fashionable and increasingly gentrified Saska Kępa (p.53)). Opening hours listed here should be treated as rough approximation; in practise many bars and clubs will stay open well beyond the call of duty if the need arises, but by the same benchmark will happily bolt the doors if business is slow.

Below are a few rapid-fire suggestions for those who need an instant plan; LOCAL Warsaw‘s multi-tap bars Kufle i Kapsle (p.110) and Piw Paw (P.110) attract a true mix of locals, expats and tourists all of whom are attracted by their exceptional selection of hand-crafted Polish and European beers. Klub SPATiF (p.108), the place to be seen for artists and actors in the 1950s-70s, is firmly rooted in Varsovian folklore. Revamped, it’s now a great place to eat, drink and see the odd event.

SYMBOL KEY 6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

W Wi-fi connection X Smoking room available

104 Warsaw In Your Pocket

CHEAP It has to be The Pavilions (G-7), a ramshackle collection of dive bars in the courtyard behind Nowy Świat 26 that offers Warsaw drinking in its rawest form. And if you don’t mind cheap beer and vodka shots explore Barszawa (p.106) where folk tend to chillout or go for a few before a night out.

LADS For Sky Sports, pints and pub banter with local ex-pats head along to Legends (p.106) or Someplace Else (p.106).

Once the need to ‚move like Jagger‘ kicks in, chances are you will get into one of the clubs on ul. Mazowiecka (F6); home of Room 13 (p.114), one of the biggest clubs in town, this short street also offers numerous other popular club options. Those in search of sensual pleasures and the erotic arts (otherwise known as strippers and lap dancers!) should check out our adult section (p.115) and then proceed wisely.

COUPLES The pricey cocktails at The Alchemist GastroPub (p.109) are made with the precision of an atomic scientist; it may not sound romantic, but it is! Judging by the numerous sexy couples seated at the bar, Woda Ognista (p.110) hits the right note with their Pre-War Varsovian style interior decor and drink concepts to match!

SPLURGE The Roots’ (p.110) cocktails are worth the dip into your wallet, as well as the atmosphere inside. If you’re dressed to impress hit up Level 27 (p.112) for the chance to party sky high atop a skyscraper.

Nightlife BARS & PUBS AFICIONADO ROOM - CIGAR & WHISKY LOUNGE Warsaw is full of great places to drink and dance, however, sometimes what we need is some quality relaxation in a classy setting. Aficionado Room provides just that. This is a great place just off the main ul. Marszałkowska, and in the heart of one of Warsaw’s points of call for great bars around Hoża, Wilcza and Krucza streets, so a cigar & whisky lounge (which is also a shop, p.122) fits right in! Enter and see that this places means business with a humidified storage room to prevent cigars from drying out, where you choose anything from cigars costing as little as 25zł to as much as 350zł, and with a nice selection of single malts to match (I’m Scottish, I checked!). The owners are passionate about their trade, and indeed hobby, therefore provide you with a wide selection of quality cigars from Cuba, the Dominican Republic, Honduras, Mexico and Nicaragua! If you’re not sure what to do, don’t worry, the staff are happy to take you through it all (and in English too). Two relaxed ventilated back rooms provide comfy leather seating with one containing a TV, should you wish to watch a major sports event here with a group of friends, or without, for even alone the atmosphere is polite and friendly, leading to some great conversations with first time visitors and regulars! Not to be missed.QG‑9, ul.

Wilcza 26, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 577 55 54 80, www. aficionadoroom.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00. X BACK ROOM BAR NEW Head down ul. Koszykowa, just off from Plac Konstytucji, and at no. 53 on your left, head down to the end of the lane which looks more like a residential car park. Keep hugging the right-hand side, walking past a few restaurants, and voilà, you’ll reach the Back Room Bar - an appropriate name indicating how well hidden it is! It would be a shame to miss this place, as inside, the mix of American 1930s bar and inter-war Varsovian lifestyle is strong; all with a heady art deco atmosphere. The cocktails the friendly dressed-forthe-part staff make are great, the setting perfect for a private drink, or a mingling session with friends. No harm in trying it out, huh?QG‑10, ul. Koszykowa 49A, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 794 49 56 59, www.backroom.bar. Open 19:00 - 00:30. Fri, Sat 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. E­W BAR AND BOOKS This legendary New York cigar and whiskey bar crossed the Atlantic a few years ago and set up shop in Prague and now they’re in Warsaw! This classy, colonial bar is the height of sophistication and the jovial bartenders and whimsical waitresses are wholly consumed with your complete satisfaction. The dark wood and dimly lit bar immediately draws you in but the spacious second floor ‘library’ is perfect for larger groups or business meetings and the balcony and terrace suit romantic sippery. They specialize in high end and classic cocktails with one of the best Scotch whiskey selections in the city. The Laphroaig Whiskey Sour we ordered was absolutely impeccable. They have live music on the occassional Thu 21:00-00:00 and warsaw.inyourpocket.com 105

Nightlife SPORTS ON TV

Champions Sports Bar & Restaurant

You just have to watch that match, don’t you. The venues listed below have sports on the tele, and the largely ex-pat crowds that come with the territory.

CHAMPIONS SPORTS BAR RESTAURANT A classic sports bar filled with glittering trophies, signed shirts and other sporting detritus. More than 40 screens and projectors beam out action from across the world, while those wishing to exercise more than their eyes can choose from pool tables, playstations and dart machines that beep and whir during moments of particular drama. All this can be enjoyed with a finely curated list of beers, cocktails and wines. Although huge, it’s also hugely popular, so we recommend you book a table in advance if there’s a particularly big match on.QE‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 630 36 87, www. champions.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. U­W LEGENDS BRITISH BAR & RESTAURANT British owned and run, not 150 metres from the Marriott, this is a resto-pub with a bright, clean look, four flatscreen TVs on which you can watch SKY and Canal +, real dart boards and a cracking menu of British-style grub (all day breakfast!) to soak up the Polish beer, British ales and rarely-seen spirits like Captain Morgan dark rum. To add that extra sports feel, walls come decorated with pictures depicting all the games the British have invented for the rest of the world to beat them at. Don’t miss their ‘legendary’ English Pub Quiz which takes place once a month on a Friday (20:00). Check their site for details.QF‑9, ul. Emilii Plater 25, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Mon 15:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. W SOMEPLACE ELSE Located in the Sheraton, SPE has flat screens stationed around an upmarket industrial space. A great menu of American classics like burgers and steaks along with an extravagant selection of drinks.QH‑9, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa.someplace-else.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. U­W 106 Warsaw In Your Pocket

every Fri-Sat 22:00-01:00 as well as burlesque shows from time to time. Check their site for upcoming events.QF‑4, ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 559 91 99, www.barandbooks.cz. Open 17:00 - 03:00. Sun 17:00 - 02:00. X­E­6­W BAR STUDIO Quite an ambitious little place this. A Bar set in the foyer of Teatr Studio, which is located in one wing of that big pointy Communist building right in the city centre (you can’t miss it!). It aims to mix theatre, political discussion, and social events, all with some snacks, food and drinks thrown in for good measure. A great place to hang out in before you head to the theatre, but likewise, it punches above its weight as a stand alone venue, without having to piggyback on the fame of the theatre itself. Its central location is another plus!QF‑8, Plac Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 603 30 08 35, www.barstudio.pl. Open 10:30 02:00. Fri, Sat 10:30 - 05:00. E­W BAR-SZAWA Enter via a small door to one of the lovely old townhouses on ul. Lwowska and creep down the sterile, tiled stairs into the basement until you get to a simple door with the word OPEN on it. That may not sound very appealing but you would be mistaken, this little tapas bar is great. The bar is a basic affair with a neat little chill out room at the back.

Beers, a few Spanish wines, a menu of tapas dishes and grilled Spanish sandwiches/rolls keep the hunger and thirst demons at bay. The stand out thing is that the young Spanish and Polish owners and staff are exceptionally friendly and fun. Everyone is welcomed like old friends.

Paella nights, music, DJ’s etc. appear whenever the fancy takes them. Funky local bar with the human touch!QF‑10, ul. Lwowska 17, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 691 45 90 69.

Open 17:00 - 24:00. Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 04:00. Closed Sun. E CIGARRO - CIGAR SHOP & LOUNGE The newest cigar shop and lounge in Warsaw, and quite the location too, inside a historic city-centre tenement building, a hop, skip and a jump away from the Marriot Hotel’s main door. You may come here with the sole intention of buying cigars for later use, however, temptation runs strong here.

You may just want to stay and sample your purchases, and why not, it’s a relaxing place with a fine interior. Cigarro has Poland’s biggest walk-in humidor containing 50 cigar brands with 400 types to choose from known brands like Cohiba, Oliva or Rocky Patel, to name a few, and the lesser known, but gaining in popularity, Plasencia, Kristoff, J.C. Newman or Indian Motorcycle, a tribute to the world famous American motorbike. With knowledgable staff to help you with your choice, you can enter the modernclassic club section in the basement bar and ventilated VIP room, which can accommodate 30 guests, to enjoy their chosen cigar and choice of drink from single malt whiskeys, bourbons and rums. Classy relaxation.QG‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 61, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 668 83 46 88, www.cigarro.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00.

Nightlife COCTAIL BAR MAX & DOM WHISKY We also question the spelling, but otherwise Max’s concept is fiendishly simple, colourful and fun. Step up to the expert bar staff, give them a rundown on your favourite tipples, fruits and taste sensations and - HEY PRESTO - they concoct a magical potion especially for you! Weird and wonderful fruits and glamorous bottles of booze are imported from around the globe. The main bar area is a bright and airy affair with bleached wood and pleasant seats. Upstairs you will find the dark and mysterious specialist whisky and cigar areas. Over 800 bottles of the ‘water of life’ stand like museum exhibits in dimly lit glass cases. Stare in awe at the 47-year-old GlenDronach, yours for only 2275zł a shot. If there’s lack of space here, don’t worry, they have a 2nd venue on ul. Nowy Świat 32.QG‑9, ul.

Krucza 16/22, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 691 71 00 00, www. barmax.pl. Open 11:00 - 05:00. X­U­W DRUGIE DNO - MULTITAP BAR NEW This is one of our favourite streets in terms of bars. It has quite a few bars dealing in craft and multitap beers, which to us is perfect - long may they keep standards up! Found at the far end of Nowogrodka (heading east), Drugie Dno has a splendid 15 taps on offer, easily chosen from the board behind the bar. Take your drink and stare at the walls (alone or with someone) and ponder whether the stripped back brick walls were an intentional design choice or merely a compromise due to restricted funds. Regardless, it’s cool, having that postindustrial feel. The food is tops, from burgers, to the neat ‘party boards’ for sharing as you chat. Great place for relaxing and chatting.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 4, MCentrum, www. drugiedno.pl. Open 15:00 - 24:00. Mon 15:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. E­6­W HARD ROCK CAFE Sure you don’t need to see Freddie Mercury’s red leather pants to enjoy a night out, but it certainly doesn’t hurt.

The Hard Rock Cafe’s large downstairs bar area is jumping at night even when live rock shows aren’t on the agenda.

The endless bar mixes up a long list of colourful cocktails for a heavily ex-pat crowd taking in paraphernalia like a well-worn Bee Gees guitar and a black leather outfit that formerly clung to Madonna’s early 90s frame. Live music is available every Wednesday (20:00).QE‑8, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrock.com/warsaw. Open 09:00 - 24:00. E­W

8 SELF SERVICE BEER TAPS - CRAFT BEERS, CIDER & PROSECCO PLAC PIŁSUDSKIEGO 3 5 min walk from Old Town 0048 22 628 00 23

Self Service Craft Beers and Prosecco on tap – the only one in Poland Plac Piłsudskiego 3, 00-078 Warszawa, (22) 628 00 23, info@thealchemist.pl

HYDROZAGADKA You will not find a more unkempt bar than Hydrozagadka; this place looks like it’s been ransacked by students, and it’s almost advisable to check yourself for fleas when leaving. Decorations aren’t so much limited as virtually non-existent, and you won’t find much more than brick walls and a collection of seats that appear to have been rescued from the rubbish. But while it looks scruffy this has emerged as one of the best places in town, with off-beat performances enjoyed by a crowd that doesn’t get out of bed till way after noon.QJ‑2, ul. 11 Listopada 22 (Praga Północ), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 505 84 93 86, www.hydrozagadka.com. Open Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:30 only and during events. X­U­E­W warsaw.inyourpocket.com 107

Nightlife

CIGAR SHOP & LOUNGE Wilcza St. 26, Warsaw

Mon-Sun 11 am-22 pm, +48 577 555 480 mail@aficionadoroom.pl www.aficionadoroom.pl

JAZZ 12ON14 JAZZ CLUB This jumpin’ joint has a clear mission to promote the Polish jazz and present a world class stage for top international acts. Hosting major concerts every week, plus jam sessions and student ensembles, this modern club has fantastic acoustics and instruments (some donated by top Polish Jazz artists). They recently celebrated their 150th concert and aren’t slowing down so stop by their ticket office (which doubles as a Jazz CD shop).QF‑10, ul. Noakowskiego 16, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 635 49 49, www.12on14club.com.

Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 6­W JAZZ CLUB AKWARIUM Warsaw’s legendary Akwarium jazz club (which closed in 2008) has returned after a period of dormancy.

Reopened in 2017, it is now located on Herbert Hoover Square, offering jazz sessions in the, quite literally, underground stage area. The building itself was only built in 2008 to revamp this patch of land on Warsaw’s Krakowskie Przedmiecie, and previously housed a restaurant. Now a moody atmosphere reigns, with a bar with some jammin’ cocktails to match.QG‑5, ul.

Krakowskie Przedmieście 60A, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 664 06 30 50. Open 15:00 - 01:00. U­E­ 6­W 108 Warsaw In Your Pocket

ISKRA POLE MOKOTOWSKIE On the outskirts of the largest park in Mokotów, next to the somewhat disused and decrepit SKRA stadium, you’ll find the party oasis known as Iskra. In the warmer months you’ll be greeted by a sea of people chilling on beach loungers, hanging on hammocks or cooling off in the pool (available until October)! In the cooler months, head straight for the underground nightclub and get down to some of the best DJs in town. The hip interiors and well stocked bars are packed with one of Warsaw’s coolest crowds so be ready to get down till the break of dawn. Check their site and Facebook profile for all the latest events (especially in winter!). Essential!QD‑12, ul. Wawelska 5, MPole Mokotowskie, tel. (+48) 609 01 80 17, www.klubiskra. pl. X­E­W JACKPOT WARSAW 777 Found in the same building as, Na Lato Day & Night, Jackpot is the perfect partner to its popular older sibling, which in itself is the perfect blend of daytime restaurant and nighttime dance venue. Although only open Fri & Sat, Jackpot (inspired by Jack Daniels) takes this blend of day and night one step up, offering food and drinks amidst a collection of palm trees and vines. From behind the shrubs appear some of the friendliest staff we’ve had the pleasure of dealing with. There’s no denying that the cocktails they have on offer reign supreme in this neck of the jungle.

As the night sets in, head on downstairs to an altogether different vibe. Romantic, some may say. Visually calming sums this up, the area resembling a Tennessee dive bar (with a touch of class, of course!). Not bad considering it’s fairly new on the social scene. Recommended.QI‑9/10, ul.

Rozbrat 44A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 696 87 97 60, www. jackpot.bar. Open 19:00 - 07:00 Fri, Sat only.

KITA KOGUTA Even with the myriad of trendy drink bars around town it’s still a bit of a rarity to stumble upon a place where the staff seem permanently smiley, jolly and on the point of being certified - this is such a place, where you’ll also receive a free cup of popcorn. As you do. Two levels of surprisingly unpretentious cocktail juggling mayhem, DJ nights and some of the weirdest auteur concoctions available in the city, like the ‘Green Lantern’ cocktail! The staff will help you think up a drink based on your tastes and preferences.

Great atmosphere, great drinks. To keep up to date with events they may host, check out their Facebook page.

QG‑9, ul. Krucza 6/14, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 512 30 72 84, www.kitakoguta.pl. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. W KLUB SPATIF Although you may not immediately be aware of it, this place is quite legendary in the Warsaw culture scene. Granted, if you’re not familiar with the old and new glitterati of Polish film and theatre, then all the photos of stars on the walls will mean nothing to you, but don’t let that put you off.

Set inside an old and elegant Warsaw tenement building (also home to the Association of Polish Theatre and Film

Nightlife Artists), this was a magical place between the 1950s-70s, where emerging stars would spend most of their time mingling! But after languishing for years thereafter as ‘U Aktorów’, it was decided to revamp, and so it happened in 2017 that Klub SPATiF returned. The transformation has been impressive. With a mix of old interiors and a touch of the new (the chair ‘chandelier’ at the entrance is quite eyecatching!), this is now a bar, restaurant and cultural venue that is firmly suited to current day crowds, while paying a nice nod to its importance in Warsaw folklore.QH‑9, Al. Ujazdowskie 45, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 625 14 98, www.klubspatif.pl. Open Wed, Thu 19:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00, Sun 15:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue. X­E­6­W L’AVANTI RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR We’ve already praised L’avanti (p.89) for being a great place to eat during the day, however, this is one of those places where the blending of time takes place, and if you blink, you may miss the transformation from daytime restaurant into a great place for evening cocktails. The service is what immediately catches your eye - you’ll get your own private barman to help you choose your right cocktail, but also to ensure your experience here is second to none. For sports fans, a projector screen is available to show events, as is the TV in the VIP section.QE‑7, ul. Grzybowska 5, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 299 30 08, www.lavanti.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.

PANORAMA SKY BAR Warsaw’s - and indeed Poland’s - highest bar sits on the 40th floor of the Marriott with prices to match the top tier location. The drinks menu has a fine selection of vodkas, champagnes and unique cocktails, which all go down well as you listen to the background music. The views of Warsaw glimmering below are outstanding, and there’s simply no better place in town for Sleepless In Seattle seduction, or a corporate chinwag.QE‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 630 74 35, www.panoramaskybar.pl. Open 18:00 - 02:00. U­W THE ALCHEMIST GASTROPUB Welcome to the future of drinking. As you make your way to the stylish bar past the spacious terrace, you’ll quickly notice a strange site on the far wall: 8 pristine unattended taps all begging you to imbibe. This is the Alchemist’s patented “Beer Wall” and it is the first of its kind in Europe.

Top up a handy “Beer Wall card” then pour yourself as many local craft beers, proseccos or ciders as you like. If you magically leave with excess credit on your card, just come back tomorrow and keep it rolling (beer cards are good for up to 6 months!) Futuristic guzzling gizmos aside, their food is also top notch with an all day menu that includes intriguing beer snacks, British gastropub classics, American burgers, sea food, beef steaks, salads and impeccable pizzas.QF‑5, Plac Piłsudskiego 3, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 628 00 23, www.thealchemist.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. T­U­ o­6­W warsaw.inyourpocket.com 109

Nightlife THE ROOTS COCKTAIL BAR & MORE While the cocktail revolution continues to shake and stir up Warsaw’s drinking habits, some places manage to stand out from the crowd. In our opinion The Roots has secured a special place in the hearts of serious cocktail devotees. First up, the bar is a shrine to the noble art of being a barman/cocktail mixer, check out their intriguing collection of vintage and antique ‘tools of the trade’ – the growing collection of mixers alone, already stands at over 60 items! Add to this a library of antiquarian books on the subject of bartending/cocktail mixing and you know you are dealing with some hardcore and scholarly mixologists. Two great menus; one featuring classics of the trade and another which presents signature drinks based on seasonal Polish regional flavours. Food is also available in the form of Polish fusion menu, which in itself sounds intriguing. Quite brilliant!QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 33, www. therootsbar.com. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 02:00. E­6­W WODA OGNISTA Before we mention the place, we’ll mention the area - ul. Wilcza, one of many nice streets here that can be described as being ‘off the beaten track’, hiding some wonderful pre-war architecture, which do not seem immediately apparent if walking on Warsaw’s main ul. Marszałkowska! You get a feel for the place when walking around and no doubt you’ll want to experience more of this ‘forgotten Warsaw’, which is exactly where Woda Ognista fits in. Enter a bar decorated with a 1920s-30s interior decor, the classy staff dressed up to match, and you already know you’ve entered a great place. Prepare to be impressed by their seasonal menu offerings, with fantastic Polish style cocktails and dishes that take you on a journey through Warsaw’s cultural history. Put simply, this is a wonderful place to experience a modern spin on pre-war Varsovian style and we’re sure the likes of Eugeniusz Bodo and Mieczysław Fogg would have approved.QH‑9, ul. Wilcza 8, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 258 14 41, www.wodaognista.com. Open 17:00 - 24:00. Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. 6­W

MICROBREWERIES BROWARMIA Warsaw’s other microbrewery tends to live in the shadow of the more famous Bierhalle, and though it fails to share the lively atmosphere of its rival, Browarmia is by no means second best. There’s a decent design here, with all the requisite pipes, dials and tanks on display, as well as a good menu that trounces the competition. The beer is top standard and their four season heated terrace making this one of the best spots for people watching any time of year.QG‑6, ul. Królewska 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 54 55, www.browarmia.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00. Mon 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. W 110 Warsaw In Your Pocket

MULTI TAP BARS 2013 was officially the “year of the beer” in Poland. And not just any old beer… Damn good micro-brewed craft beers and ales made in small batches by dozens of small breweries then shipped in bottles or kegs and pumped, poured and pounded in sleek new multi-tap bars, ale dens and beer pubs all over Poland. Warsaw has been in the vanguard of this renaissance and a whole cache of new bars have opened their doors in the past few years offering a wide variety of sultry suds to a rapidly expanding community of beer enthusiasts.

KUFLE I KAPSLE Hot on the heels of the original Warsaw real ale bar ‘Cuda na Kiju’ comes this beer drinker’s paradise. The name ‘Kufle i Kapsle’ means ‘Beer Mugs and Bottlecaps’ and the interior is a perfect blend of European traditional bar design mingling with Polish features, such as the large tiled heater in the back room. Sixteen taps are on offer and the bottled beer selection has more variety than a Glaswegian glass recycling bin!

An interesting selection of bar snacks are also available. In contrast to many other local bars, expect it to be packed and buzzing from around 17:00. We love it! (Also visit their other locations at ul. Księdza Jerzego Popiełuszki 19/21 paw. 1 and ul. Solec 46A).QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 25, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 127 72 18, www.kufleikapsle.pl. Open 14:00 02:00. Fri, Sat 14:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. W PIW PAW 57 tap beers and a wall of refrigerators stuffed to bursting with over 200 bottled beers may sound like you’ve died and gone to heaven, but it makes for a rather odd business plan. Besides bragging rights, we can’t really see the reason behind the massive selection, or the fact that the venue only has around a dozen tables and, even more scarily, only two toilets! In fairness, a large amount of trade comes from the off-licence side of things – even the tap beers can be poured into containers and taken with you. The meticulous queuing system at the bar also detracts from it having a real pub atmosphere. Whatever the down-sides, one cannot deny their passion for great beer. Also on ul. Foksal 16 and ul. Mazowiecka 9.QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 32/34 (entrance from ul. Parkingowa), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 534 73 45 00, www.piwpaw.pl. Open 24hrs. W

WINE BARS BRISTOL WINE BAR The dark wood furnishings and brass/chrome fittings contrast beautifully with the subdued colour scheme of the paintwork and there’s enough marble around to give Michelangelo a seizure. The stunning old and new world wine list is exquisite and, considering the opulent surroundings, wines by the glass start from a very reasonable 25zł. Try out their 3 course lunches, 12:00-15:00.QG‑5, ul.

Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol Warsaw), MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 551 10 00, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. U­W

Nightlife WINOSFERA Coming across as somewhat of a cultural centre for wine lovers, including a cinema, piano bar, fine art gallery, theatre and wine shop. Best considered a number of ventures under one roof, all linked by the humble grape. The raw brickwork and plaster grey interior has all the modern charm of a re-fitted factory space and features the ‘must have’ current trend of the open kitchen. Expect culinary magic from the short and perfectly constructed menu with Bartłomiej Brzózka as head chef. The clean and perfect presentation of dishes is rapidly turning the restaurant into one of Warsaw’s top eateries.QC‑7, ul. Chłodna 31, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 526 25 00, www.winosfera. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. U­W

CLUBS Clubs in Warsaw range from sedate to sinful, and we cover the full gamut here. A night spent clubbing means you’ll most likely greet the dawn because, unlike the closing times you might be used to, Polish clubs stay open until the sun comes up. Expect a cover charge at most venues that can range from 5-20zl depending on events, and note that toilet paper is often a luxury that seems to universally run out around 22:00.

KAROVA MUSIC CLUB Walking around the the classy Old Town, you’re going to get a feel for the atmosphere of the area. Come night time, you’ll want to maintain this good vibe, and if you’re planning to head out, then Karova is the perfect place.

Just off Krakowskie Przedmieście at the Hotel Bristol, curve round ul. Karova until you find the entrance. Once inside, dance music pumps through some impressive tech for the liveliest amongst you, which blends perfectly with the more relaxing vibes of cosier, chillout areas of the club, the mood set by candles and Edison bulbs. The bar is well stocked and the bar staff well drilled in serving up your choice of drinks! Not only can you organise closed parties here, for those doing business, events and conferences can also be accommodated. You’ll definitely need to come do your own ‘research’ before hiring out this place though...have fun!QG‑5, ul. Karowa 31, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 690 88 60 90, www.karova.club. Open 22:00 - 05:00 Fri, Sat only.

P­U­E LEVEL 27 Anyone with vertigo, a word of warning, as the name alone suggests, this is not going to be some basement or ground level club. So, now that you’ve heeded our warning...or you choose not to, get up top and find yourself in one of Poland’s top clubs, with DJs splurging out R&B and Hip Hop on Fridays, House music on Saturdays (stricter door policy this night, so dress smart/smart causual!), all the while beautiful people dance away. Expect regular themed parties and all manners of entertainment from fire shows to dancers. The venue also offers the possibility to hold fashion shows, private events etc. A major draw in summer is the 112 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Nightlife open terrace where you can dance until the sun comes up over Warsaw, a beautiful sight in itself. You know the level.

You know where to go.QC‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 733 66 10 94, www. level27.pl. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00 only. o­E­W N58 CLUB Smack dab in the heart of the action on Nowy Świat, N58 is the latest club addition to the famous street.

Right above the Bollywood Lounge, move from seeing sequined dresses, scented water pipes and shaking hips and undulating bellies to the more familiar beats of R’n’B, Hip Hop, Funk and Soul, to general mash-ups of them all!

On Wednesdays, they even have Russian karaoke! IF you get peckish during the night, no need to leave and hunt down some food as they serve Kentucky style chicken, chicken spring rolls, sandwiches and salads. Check out their Facebook page to see information on all the latest events.

QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 58, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 500 01 58 58, www.n58.pl. Open Wed - Thu 20:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sat 20:00 - 05:00 only. W NA LATO DAY & NIGHT Na Lato has been a Powiśle favourite for a while now, both during the day and night. The setting, both the location and the interior, work well, as they are pleasant on the eye and the soul. After a meal, sit back at the bar on a Fri or Sat, letting the night set in until bam! - the transformation from restaurant to dance floor passes by you in the blink of an eye, especially if you’re cocktailing early. Get well fed, dance your socks off, or sit at the bar continuing what you were doing before. If that’s not enough, check out Jackpot Warsaw 777 on the premises, a heady mix of palm trees and 19th century Tennessee bar feel - very romantic, indeed. Not a bad set of choices, huh?QI‑9/10, ul. Rozbrat 44A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 696 87 84 49, www.na-lato. com. Open 08:30 - 24:00. Fri 08:00 - 05:00, Sat 10:00 05:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. X­o­W NIEBO Found in the courtyard at Nowy Świat 21, Niebo (Heaven) is a venue that the owners term ‘multidimensional’, which is not an allusion to an outer-body experience, but a decent explanation of how this place functions - by day, it’s a restaurant running daily 12:00-22:00 (with a great bar) and a place to relax and even meet up for business. But there’s more going on here, for not only is this a place to eat as it that becomes a pretty vibrant club on Fri & Sat nights, and a cultural and artistic centre, hosting concerts, and even film screenings. We recommend you check out their Facebook page to keep up with the busy events calendar!QG‑8, ul.

Nowy Świat 21, MCentrum. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. E­6­W

Where’s the party? facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com 113

Nightlife OPERA A no-expense spared design masterpiece found in the basement of the National Opera. Descend the curving stairwell and all you’ll see is boys with attitude, dressed in popped collared polo shirts, and a heart-stopping spread of gazelle-like girls. If you were wondering where the good lookers went, you’ve found the answer. Tread down wood boards and through vaulted tunnels to reach the main arena, checking out the numerous side rooms on the way; this place was formerly known as Bedroom, and that’s because of the alcoves found shooting off in every direction. Each comes decorated with poufs, loungers and Persian drapes, and serve as a great spot to enjoy illicit activities. If you’re searching for a venue for your next private party, you can rent out the whole place from SunFri.QF‑5, Pl. Teatralny 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 70 75, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 06:00 only. X­E­W ROOM 13 CLUB & LOUNGE Warsaw has had the benefit of a club explosion (clubsplosion?) in the last decade or so, and after visiting venue upon venue, Room 13 is one that stands out.

Located in the heart of the legendary Mazowiecka street, the interior is a striking mix between modern club theme and stunning old architectural style of the building.

Couches and pillows adorn the interior, and if your idea of heaven is two bars, a VIP room, a wide array of music and lots of high heels, then consider this your nirvana.QF‑6, ul.

Mazowiecka 13, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 60 44, www.room13.pl. Open Thu - Sun 22:00 05:00 only. W SMOLNA This sparse and bunkerlike club based on the Berlin underground techno model is situated in a grand old city centre townhouse, just seconds away from the landmark ‘palm tree’. The music delves deep into the murky world of all aspects of electronica but they’re a pretty radical and experimental group of folks, so you never know what musical journey they’ll whisk you through. Three dancefloors, including the newly installed outdoor patio space (the neighbours will love that one), three bars (cocktails included) and a chillout room make up this hugely popular venue. Keeping things enigmatic and secretive, they have a strict “no photos/no smartphone” policy and some pretty cryptic advertising clips which tell you nothing. The door policy seems pretty reasonable, simply in place to keep out aggressive yobos and anyone with a Nikon D5200 strapped around their neck. Expect long queues, especially during weekends.QH‑8, ul. Smolna 38, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, www.smolna38.com.

Open Wed 22:00 - 03:00; Fri, Sat 23:30 - 08:00 only. W

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 114 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Adult Entertainment We advise sticking to venues listed here which are central and established. Be warned we’ve had reports of 8,000zł being spent willingly in one club listed here and 8,000 sterling spent unwillingly in one not here. If you go by taxi, make sure the driver takes you to the correct club, not one they have a partnership with. Avoid street solicitation!

HUSTLER GENTLEMEN’S CLUB Located in the heart of the classy part of Warsaw’s centre, Nowy Świat, and currently the one and only Hustler in Europe! This exclusive club is filled with beautiful women, a wide selection of alcohols and even a VIP room for private reservations. Although one of the smaller clubs in Warsaw, it is definitely one of the best with a great atmosphere.

Open from 21:00 - 05:00, get there early, leave late.QH‑8, ul. Nowy Świat 3, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 826 56 05, www.hustlerclub.pl. Open 21:00 - 05:00.

PLAYHOUSE GENTLEMAN’S CLUB This smart gentlemen’s club, located in a chunky communist era building on al. Solidarności, has certainly hit the top of the tree (or pole?) with their classy approach to showing off the female form in luxurious surroundings.

Their reputation in this market has even gone international, with influential website AskMen.com recently voting them the best strip club in the world! Three floors covering over 800m2, four bars, three VIP rooms, an in-house ATM and 57 sizzling hot women makes Playhouse THE place to visit for the discerning gent with a penchant for the erotic.

Payment methods accepted: cash, card and Bitcoin.QD‑5, Al. Solidarności 82A, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 794 00 70 00, www.playhouse.pl. Open 21:00 - 05:00. X SOGO CLUB The largest of all the strip clubs in Warsaw at a size of 1200m2! It’s ridiculously easy to get to from any part of Warsaw. Simply head to the beginning of ul. Nowy Świat (G-8, at the Palm Tree) and you’ll see the brightly lit building in the distance. The place consists of three levels: the main hall containing two bars and hundreds of seats, and VIP rooms, and even conference facilities. Should you want more privacy, the Gold Club option provides private rooms with a dedicated lounge bar and washroom facilities! The club has their customers desires in mind and will stay open longer if you feel you simply cannot leave at 05:00!QH‑7, Al. Jerozolimskie 6, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 92 09, www.sogoclub.pl. Open 20:00 - 05:00. L XXONE NIGHT CLUB This place is stupidly easy to find, with the Palace of Culture and Science directly behind you! Despite the address, enter the discreet entrance round the corner at ul. Pankiewicza. Once inside, you’ll find a host of dancers, along with a well stocked cocktail bar. There is a main dance area, but should you want some more privacy, there are two VIP rooms for that extra special one to one...QF‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 53 (entrance from ul. Pankiewicza), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 356 20 16, www.xxone.pl.

Open 21:00 - 05:00. warsaw.inyourpocket.com 115

Leisure

It’s impossible not to have fun at FSO Shooting Range! All supervised, of course!

ADRENALINE SPORTS

ENTERTAINMENT CENTRES

FSO SHOOTING RANGE (STRZELNICA FSO) Shooting at FSO = adrenaline pumping fun. I could stop there, but there’s some important stuff you must know!

First and foremost, the shooting range is located in the grounds of the former Polish car manufacturer FSO, which produced iconic cars such as the Polonez, a mass-produced geometric beast, between 1978-2002. It’s through the main gate that you enter and take a left until you reach the range at the end of the lane. If you’re arriving by bus, get off at stop Śliwice and it’s directly behind the petrol station, you can’t miss the ‘welcome FSO’ sign at the end of ul. Aleksandra Kotsisa. Once you’re there, choose from various packages, ranging from 59-599zł, which take you on a walkthrough of gun history, from old revolvers and pistols, Soviet era weaponry, all up to modern-day shooters. The range caters for groups of various sizes and can take up to 45, which can be anything from smaller stag/hen groups to larger corporate events (conference facilities are available!). It is essential you bring photo ID with you (passport, ID card), otherwise you will not be allowed to take part! Highly recommended.Qul. Jagiellońska 88/10B, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 604 24 01 95, www.strzelnicafso.pl.

Open 10:00 - 23:00. Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Last ​​ entrance 1 hour before closing.

FUN PARK DIGILOO Situated not far from the city centre on the otherwise never ending ul. Puławska, Digiloo is a vast kid’s paradise of themed activity rooms. Areas vary from a toddlers space for the under two’s through to the main, jungle inspired activity area, a modern climbing wall and a laser paintball zone for budding young hitmen/women! Seven themed birthday rooms are also available for private hire.

You may ask what the grown ups can do while the nippers are running riot under the watchful eye of the expert assistants? They can take-five in the prize winning café/ restaurant with its home cooking style menu.QH‑16, ul. Merliniego 2, MWierzbno, tel. (+48) 508 80 07 73, www.funparkdigiloo.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 116 Warsaw In Your Pocket

HULAKULA LEISURE CENTRE Hulakula is one of the most modern indoor entertainment centres in Warsaw. There’s plenty to do here for both adults and kids of all ages. For all the Big Lebowskis out there, you can strut your stuff on no less than 28 of their 10-pin bowling alleys, and there are even special lanes for kids only. For billiard players, you’re catered for too, with 8 LEO Black King tables. If bowling and/or billiards isn’t your thing, they have a damn cool ‘old-school zone’ full of classic arcade game machines, pinball machines and air hockey tables, to name a few! As for the little ones, depending on age, there is a soft-toy toddler zone, and for slightly older kids, there’s an indoor playground that is full of mazes! The more adventurous may wish to get their kicks out of driving

Activities & Leisure around 600m of an indoor go-karting track, the only one in the city itself. Recommended for a family day out, or even for the kidults amongst you.QJ‑4, ul. Jagiellońska 82B, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 669 00 10 01, www. hulakula.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Wed, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 24:00.

SPIN CITY Admission for bowling is 49-120zł per hour. Features a bowling alley, a bar with pool tables and darts and a video games area.Qul. Powstańców Śląskich 126A (Cinema City, Bemowo), tel. (+48) 22 560 42 42, www.spincity.pl.

Open 09:30 - 24:00. Fri, Sat 09:30 - 03:00.

INDOOR ATTRACTIONS FLYSPOT WARSAW INDOOR SKYDIVING Do you believe you can fly? This futuristic adrenaline junky paradise has both a freefall simulator and a Boeing 737 flight simulator. Spread your wings! Prices start from 229 zł for adults and 199zł for kids 18 and under. The price includes 2 flights in the freefall simulator/20 mins. and [for adults only] the Boeing 737 simulator, although you’ll get more if, well, you choose a more expensive package.

QWspólna droga 1, Ożarów Mazowiecki, tel. (+48) 698 62 65 00, www.flyspot.com. Open 08:30 - 24:00.

HANGAR 646 A great place to literally jump around with masses of trampolines spread over nearly 3,000m2. Found in an old industrial area across the river from the Old Town you’ll also find drink and snacks available and lots of things to keep the kids happy. Also check out their other locations at ul. Dalanowska 29 in the Targówek district and ul.

Domaniewska 37A in the Mokotów district. Opening hours subject to change, so best check their site for the latest info.QWał Miedzeszyński 646, tel. (+48) 22 299 54 59, www.hangar646.pl. Open 08:30 - 21:00, C Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 29zł/ M per hour, 24zł/per hour group ticket (min. 8 people) online; 34zł/ per hour, 29zł/per hour group ticket (min.

Y 8 people) stationary.

CM

PINBALL STATION MY Remember a time before everyone could play games on their phones? A time when even having a games CY console was considered a luxury for kids? For those that didn’t have this, arcade games, and pinball machinesCMYinparticular were a damn cool form of entertainment (and K minor obsession). Relive those days in this interactive pinball museum containing over 50 machines from the 90s (the oldest they have is from 1966!), with walls adorned with old school arcade posters. To get there, travel to Plac Zawiszy bus/tram stop, or take the short walk from Rondo Daszyńskiego Metro Station.QB‑9, ul.

Kolejowa 8A, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 600 63 31 15, www.pinballstation.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00. Admission 40/35zł.

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FSO SHOOTING RANGE REAL GUNS REAL AMMO REAL FUN!

100 METERS AXIS UNDER THE ROOF OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

WWW.STRZELNICAFSO.PL warsaw.inyourpocket.com 117

Activities & Leisure ICE SKATING

Round and round you skate in the Old Town!

NATIONAL STADIUM ICE RINK During winter the National Stadium also serves as Poland’s largest indoor ice skating complex. Divided into two sections with separate prices, Rink A is a traditional ice oval (admission 14/11zł during the week and 16/13zł on weekends), while Rink B is a double rink and costs a little extra (16/13zł; weekends 18/15zł). Opening hours for both rinks are Mon-Fri 15:00-23:00 and Sat-Sun 09:00-00:00 with both open until early March. If you’re up for a little more action on the ice make sure to visit Rink A late on Friday (21:15 - 22:30) and Saturday (20:30 - 21:45) for their disco skating nights with DJs, lights and production values. Kids can come along to skating lessons on Sundays 09:30-10:45 and 11:15-12:30.QK‑6, Al. Ks. J. Poniatowskiego 1, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 22 295 98 76, www.zimowynarodowy.pl. Open Mon-Thu 15:00 - 23:00 until March 3rd.

OLD TOWN ICE RINK After last year’s success the Ice Rink is back on the Old Town Square. Skate around the Warsaw Mermaid statue and enjoy delicious street food from kiosks run by Warsaw restaurateurs. Admission is free of charge but you have to pay to rent skates. Although open 10:0021:00, take note that swooshing on the ice is done in sessions, running 10:00-12:00, 13:00-15:00, 16:0018:00 and 19:00-21:00.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta, MRatusz Arsenał. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Available 08 December until the end of February. Admission free.

PKIN ICE RINK New Yorkers sharpen their skates at Rockefeller Square, and those in Washington DC do their ice laps in the sculpture park of the National Gallery, so it’s only natural that Varsovians would turn their triple salchows in the shadow of the Palace of Culture & Science. Ice time is free if you have your own skates; if not you can rent some for 10zł an hour or 5zł for 30 mins. The rink stays open as long as the weather stays cold (usually until the end of February) and bear in mind there is a break in the icy action between 13:00-14:00 and 17:00-18:00.

QE‑7, Pl. Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Available 06 December until end of February. Admission free.

118 Warsaw In Your Pocket

ROOM ESCAPE What better way to get to know your travelling companions, or perhaps strangers you met at a bar, than locking yourselves in a room with them and solving riddles, puzzles & mysteries while trying to escape! These are the biggest & most technologically advanced escape room adventures in Poland with three locations and nine different rooms to choose from. Each room allows 2-5 people one hour to try and Escape. Also at ul. Inżynierska 1 and ul. Marszałkowska 140.

QG‑10, ul. Śniadeckich 1/15, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 503 96 60 12, www.roomescape.pl. Open 09:30 - 22:30.

Fri, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. Last entrance 90 minutes before closing. Mon-Fri till 15:00 it’s 150zł. Mon-Fri after 15:00 + weekends it’s 180zł.

THE HEAVENS OF COPERNICUS A trip to outer space is made simple at the Heavens of Copernicus planetarium, which is tucked behind the giant Copernicus Science Centre as its own distinct venue. Visitors can choose different 40-minute films (which require headsets for English and Russian) that are geared towards different age ranges and interests. Inside the audience is immersed in the solar system thanks to a spherical screen that surrounds the 139 seats on all sides. Four digital projectors display images of the starry sky (we’re talking 20 million points of light) and simulate space travel to bring planets and moons into view. Before each film is a 20-minute live show about the skies over Warsaw that changes with the seasons. School groups dominate the Planetarium’s seats during daytime hours, and booking tickets in advance is highly recommended – when we dropped in only one of the numerous daily shows had available space. Fridays now feature “concerts under the stars,” with live piano adding to the experience and a permanent exhibition “Look: there’s the Earth!” A not-to-be-missed attraction. 2D movies cost 22/16zł and 3D 27/21zł.QH‑5, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.niebokopernika.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Fri 09:00 21:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:30. Last entrance 1hr before closing. U­Y

OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS & PARKS MULTIMEDIA FOUNTAIN PARK Located in the Podzamcze district a short walk north of the Old Town, the ‘Multimedia Fountain Park’ is a visual delight combining music, light and, as the name suggests, fountains. Built on the site of a derelict concrete pond, the fountain cost over 11 million PLN to create. Featuring 367 nozzles which are capable of firing 800 cubic metres of water 25m into the air over the 3,000 square metre pond.

The stunning visual show is provided by the fountain’s synchronisation with 295 coloured LED RGB lights and a laser projector able to create visual effects such as Warsaw’s iconic Syrena (Mermaid) moving through the water.

Perhaps most impressive is the remarkable clarity with which films are able to be projected onto the wall of water,

Activities & Leisure while music resounds from the surrounding speakers.

These multimedia shows have proved so popular that visitors are warned to stake out a position on the banked viewing terraces as early as possible in order to get the best views. Shows are also available in winter, though much shorter, Fri-Sun at 16:00, 17:00 and 18:00. We recommend checking their site for availability as the weather dictates whether or not a show will go ahead.QF‑3, Skwer im. I Dywizji Pancernej, MDworzec Gdański, www.parkfontann.pl.

VISTULAN BOULEVARDS Well, well, well, Warsaw sure has scrubbed up its riverside pretty nicely recently, huh? Here’s the unique part - the west side (the left bank) has concrete boulevards (Bulwary Wiślane) with bars and cafes dotted around in summer, while the right side of the river remains wild providing a unique contrast. Warsaw can now say its riverside boulevard is one of the best in Europe, if not the world; comparable to that of the Thames, the Seine and the Tiber (the Mayor’s words!). Gradually completed in phases, an 800m section was opened in June 2017 and the latest linking section was opened in August 2017. To get there, walk down to the riverfront from the Old Town, or roll right in by metro M2 to Centrum Nauki Kopernik station, and choose to walk, ride a bike, skate the length of the boulevard or if it’s cold, find an indoor cafe to sit in and enjoy the views.QG‑3, Bulwar Karskiego.

ZOO Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors each year. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent years, though a visit here will do little to change any opinions you have on locking animals in cages. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during the 1944 Uprising, he helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo.QH‑3, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo. waw.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. 1 Feb - 28 Feb: Open 09:00 - 16:00. 1 Mar - 31 Mar: Open 09:00 - 17:00, Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 20/15zł. Family tickets available.

SWIMMING WODNY PARK The best pool of the lot with saunas, steam rooms, snow cabins, solariums as well as loads of slides and other recreational facilities. Prices range from 20-24zł/15-26zł per hour and 35-42zł/26-32zł for 2.5 hours. Happy Hours are on offer with a fixed price Mon-Fri 17.50/9.50zł per hour from 09:00-15:00.QH‑16, ul. Merliniego 4 (Mokotów), MWierzbno, tel. (+48) 22 854 01 30, www.wodnypark. com.pl. Open 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 06:30 - 22:00, (Spa open 11:00 - 22:00. Admission 42-78/32-59zł).

WARSAW WITH THE KIDS Warsaw has a tonne of sightseeing, but not all places are suited for youngsters. You can only expect them to be quiet and respectful in churches, memorial sites and boring history museums for so long. There must be something else to do in this town, right? Yup! Of course the first step to having a great family vacation abroad is to accept that what you want to do, and what your kids want to do are hardly one and the same. That said, there’s no reason you can’t find common ground in Warsaw’s major attractions.

The perfect choice is to go to the Copernicus Science Centre (p.33), which will not only keep the kids entertained with the games and interactive nature of the museum, but the adults with also have a whale of a time too. The Warsaw Uprising Museum (p.59) is super-modern and highly interactive, with kid specific educational zones. A slightly ‘different’ suggestion is to go to the Invisible Exhibition (D-9), an immersive experience that teaches you how blind people live their daily lives by performing tasks whilst blindfolded!

Multikino in Złote Tarasy (p.126) and Cinema City Arkadia (p.126) are good options to see the latest kids’ movies on a rainy day. If action packed indoor attractions interest you, Warsaw has Hangar 646 (p.117) for trampolining madness spread out over a whopping 3,000m2. In Warsaw’s southern Mokotów district the Water Park (p.119) is perfect with its slides and fun activities. For the sports obsessed, PGE National Stadium (p.53) offer tours.

For the adventurous, there’s an indoor Flyspot (p.117) where you can fly around inside a wind tunnel. IF that’s not enough, FSO Shooting Range (p.116) is immensely fun, and supervised! For old school gameing, check out Pinball Station (p.117), essentially a museum filled with arcade games!

Sometimes the best thing to do is simply take a charming walk along ul. Nowy Świat (p.40), ul.

Krakowskie Przedmieście (p.38) and onward to the Old Town (p.34), where in the warmer months, the area has a family atmosphere. Other outdoor leisure activities could include a visit to Łazienki Park (p.44) with plenty of cute squirrels, peacocks and ducks around! For more animals, check out Warsaw Zoo (p.51)! The Vistulan Boulevards (p.119) are great for those wishing to walk, bike, skate or play in specially installed play areas for the kids. Don’t forget that during winter there are plenty of ice-skating rinks around the city, the best of which we’ve highlighted for you on p.118. warsaw.inyourpocket.com 119

Shopping

Polish Gifts - your very own piece of Poland If you‘re pondering what may be the best present to bring home for friends and family, look no further than our friendly tips on typically Polish gifts. They‘re unique to the country and won‘t set you back a million dollars, nor are they as tacky as a simple keyring made thousands of miles away. Here‘s the best on offer...

AMBER

It doesn‘t get any more Polish than amber (OK, it‘s all over the Baltic coast), and you won‘t find a tourist hot spot without at least one shop selling Baltic gold. The gem is often full of mesmerising insects caught up millions of years ago. There‘s no specific item you need focus on, however, more often than not, amber jewellery is popular. If that‘s not good enough, buy anything from a giant amber vase, watch, chess set, to...a liqueur - simply a bottle with small pieces of amber mixed with spirit, which is surprisingly nice. The best places to find amber are Art Gallery Silver Line and Art Studio Jewellery Schubert (p.123), both in Warsaw‘s Old Town (p.34).

HANDCRAFTED FOLK ITEMS

Poland‘s folk image is strongest in rural areas, and equally so in tourist trinket shops. Still, don‘t let this put you off as there are plenty of places to buy unique Polish handmade gifts, ranging from traditional ceramics from Bolesławiec Pottery (p.125) to lace cloths and garments, famous to the Silesian region (Beskid mountain area) in the form of Koniaków lace. One of the best places for handcrafted goods is the oldest shop of its type in Poland: Cepelia (p.125). Here you can buy anything from old-style Polish wooden dolls, traditional lace cloths, and of course, various pots, pans, cups, plates and vases, to name but a few!

POLISH SWEET TREATS

You may already know the wonders of Polish food - all that meat, all that veg, yum - but the country is big on its sweet delights too. It can be hard to walk past a Polish cafe or confectionery shop without salivating. You may not quite get a box of Polish doughnuts back home without them getting crushed, but there are plenty of other options, such as Wedel or Wawel (p.69), full of chocolates and sweets, entirely unique to Poland. Your family or friends‘ dentists won‘t necessarily be happy with your gifts, but their cheeky sweet tooth will be delighted!

FASHION & JEWELLERY

Despite amber ruling the roost in terms of top choice for Polish jewellery, this does not mean that the country is doomed to wear nothing but amber necklaces, rings and earrings. There is variety out there, even among the tourist hotspots of Warsaw. Lilou (p.123) is a phenomenal success in Poland where you can find gold and silver jewellery items and have your own input in creating your favourite piece. As for fashion, you only need to keep your eyes-peeled to see the capital is filled to the brim with trendy young things strutting their stuff around the street. High street brands mix with boutiques, all of which you can read about in the upcoming pages...

120 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Shopping

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Shopping

Huge discounts (30-70%!) are on offer in Factory Outlets in Warsaw (p.126)

Paris, London or New York it ain’t, but hard-core shoppers can still find plenty to spend their well-earned lolly on.

Warsaw is seeing true growth in the array of shops available and the number of big-name labels that are opening storefronts. Whether it’s western-style malls, designer boutiques, dusty family stores or antique markets, a day spent shopping can result in both bargains and treasures.

ALCOHOL & TOBACCO AFICIONADO ROOM - CIGAR & WHISKY LOUNGE If you’re visiting Warsaw and are a bit of a cigar aficionado, we have just the thing for you, and thoroughly enough, the shop’s name is straight to the point - Aficionado Room!

Whether you are eager to buy a cigar to smoke, or to add to your collection, this is the perfect place just off Warsaw’s main ul. Marszałkowska! Enter and see that this places means business with a humidified storage room to prevent cigars from drying out, where you choose anything from cigars costing as little as 25zł to as much as 350zł, with accessories to match your needs. The owners are passionate about their trade, and indeed hobby, therefore provide you with a wide selection of quality cigars from Cuba, the Dominican Republic, Honduras, Mexico and Nicaragua! The shop doubles as a cigar & whisky lounge (p.105) , should you decide to stay a little longer to try out your recent purchases, and why not, as they offer two relaxed ventilated back rooms with comfy leather seating and fine whisky to match!QG‑9, ul. Wilcza 26, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 577 55 54 80, www.aficionadoroom.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00.

122 Warsaw In Your Pocket

CIGARRO - CIGAR SHOP & LOUNGE The newest cigar shop and lounge to hit Warsaw, set inside a historic city-centre tenement building, quite literally a hop, skip and a jump away from the Marriot Hotel’s main door. A selection of 50 cigar brands with 400 types, series and lines, are all stored in the focal point in Cigarro Poland’s biggest walk-in humidor, ensuring all cigars have been stored in the right humidity and temperature. Here you can find known brands like Cohiba, Oliva or Rocky Patel, to name a few, and the lesser known, but gaining in popularity, Plasencia, Kristoff, J.C. Newman or Indian Motorcycle, a tribute to the world famous American

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but since March 2018 new regulations that will eventually ban Sunday trading in Poland entirely have gone into effect. Throughout 2019, trade will only be allowed on the last Sunday of each month.

There are only a few exemptions to the rule, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets and souvenir shops (oh thank god). Note that the Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep only on those Sundays when trade is allowed.

The following is a list of Sundays when shops are allowed to be OPEN: Feb. 24 | March 31 | April 14 | April 28

Shopping motorbike. If you’re not content to buy and go, the modern-classic Cigarro club section, with basement bar and ventilated VIP room, can accommodate 30 guests to enjoy their chosen cigar and choice of drink from single malt whiskeys, bourbons and rums. A classy venue, indeed. QE‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 61, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 668 83 46 88, www.cigarro.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00.

AMBER & JEWELLERY Vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland; the country is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse. The best place to begin your search is the Old Town, which is filled with purveyors of amber baubles.

ART GALLERY AMBER SILVER LINE This gorgeous gallery specialises in luxury handcrafted jewellery of the amber variety, but crystal, silver and gold items can be purchased here too. This is the location of what is the largest and oldest Amber dealers in the City, a family run business going back to 1988, proudly selling amber of Polish origin - certified by the International Amber Association. Even heads of State and royalty have been spotted procuring presents here, from Bill Clinton to Japanese princesses (whose thank you letters you can see inside)! Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top designers, plus high quality jewellery made with other precious stones.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, www.warsawamber.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

ART STUDIO JEWELLERY SCHUBERT There’s no end to the amber offerings you’ll find near the Stary Rynek, and here’s another. Helpful sales people and more forms of amber - bracelets, earrings, pins, oh my! than you can imagine.QF‑4, ul. Piwna 12/14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 29 38, www.worldofamber.pl.

Open 09:00 - 20:00.

FREY WILLE Fine jewellery and fashion accessories inspired by masters like Klimt and Mucha. Frey Wille boutique hails from Austria, and what sets it apart from most places is that the items on offer are handmade; The philosophy of the boutique is to create works of art which are rooted in the humanism, pieces which are bourne from an artistic love and passion, indeed, made by artists themselves. What’s more, much of the jewellery undergoes an enamelling process, binding fine glass onto metal, which revolutionised Frey Wille’s works from 1981 onwards to offer the fine pieces you see today. Located on Piłsudski Square, Frey Wille is definitely worth a visit if you’re in the Old Town area.QF‑5, Pl. Piłsudskiego 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 55 03, www.freywille.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Sat 10:00 16:00. Closed Sun.

GALERIA BURSZTYNEK The Całka family have been in the amber business for two generations and their love of this gift of the Baltic coast makes Galeria Bursztynek the store to visit for stunning jewellery and artefacts, all produced in their own workshop. Not content with just selling you a unique souvenir from your trip to Warsaw they are also keen to educate customers about the history of amber, the craftsmanship involved in working the resin and its many uses throughout the ages. In order to do this, they have turned part of their glamorous Old Town emporium into a permanent and fascinating amber museum. You can find the Old Town location at Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6.QF‑4, ul.

Długa 8/14 lok.70, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 508 51 16 80, www.bursztynek.co. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

LILOU Phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components and create a unique and personal piece. The range continues to grow, with the original idea of the personalised bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes - hearts, dogs, cats and the likes, and then have it hand engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you. A ‘must have’ item amongst local celebs and fashionistas. Also at ul. Francuska 27, CH Arkadia and Sadyba Best Mall.QH‑9, ul. Mokotowska 63, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 506 19 08 97, www.lilou.pl.

Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.

WORLD OF AMBER This is truth in advertising at its best. World of Amber is, literally, a world filled with all things amber. Interested in a three-masted pirate ship made of amber? How about a goblet trimmed in amber? A glasses case? Beyond these unusual trinkets World of Amber also has the usual beads, rings, neck-breaking pendants and bracelets that are a must-have souvenir. The shop has a large number of knowledgeable staff, which means you’re never left lingering over a glass case waiting in vain for service. Which we like even more than the chess set made entirely of amber. We swear. Also at ul. Piwna 12/14 (B-2) and ul. Piwna 26 (B-2).

QF‑4, ul. Świętojańska 11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 16 00, www.worldofamber.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

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Shopping TADEUSZ KOŚCIUSZKO History produces few men like Tadeusz Kościuszko (1746-1817).

Kościuszko’s highest ideal was freedom, and he used his own to try and secure it for all those less fortunate. In one country - Poland - he failed and is remembered as the greatest hero who ever walked the land. In another country America - he succeeded, and yet has been almost completely forgotten.

A large monument to Kościuszko was unveiled in Warsaw on November 2010 in the presence of the Polish President and the US Ambassador. The monument is an exact copy of one in Washington by sculptor Antoni Popiel given to Americans on behalf of the Polish nation. At its unveiling outside of the White House in 1910 the promise was made to erect a copy in Poland if ever the country regained its independence.

Kościuszko himself was educated in Warsaw, and then Paris when Poland was partitioned for the first time in 1772. Kościuszko soon found himself attracted to the American fight for independence and it was as a colonel in the engineering corps that Kościuszko distinguished himself, playing a key role in the decisive turning point of the northern campaign - the Battle of Saratoga in October 1777. Kościuszko was then charged with fortifying West Point, New York, where he built an impenetrable fortress that would later become America’s premier military academy. Rewarded with citizenship, the rank of Brigadier General and land in Ohio at the end of hostilities, Kościuszko found himself instead drawn back to Poland whose aggressive neighbours continued to threaten its sovereignty.

On May 3, 1791 the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth created the first constitution in modern Europe, and four days later the Russian army crossed the border triggering the Polish-Russian War of 1792. Kościuszko again distinguished himself in battle and became regarded as Poland’s leading military strategist.

However the neighbouring powers further reduced the power and size of Poland through the Second Partition of Poland (1793). Using his experience from the American Revolution, Kościuszko led a peasant revolt that would become known as the ‘Kościuszko Uprising,’ scoring a quick victory over the Russian army at Racławice. His ultimate defeat, however, resulted in the Third Partition of Poland (1795) and Poland disappeared from the map of Europe for the next 123 years.QE‑6, Pl. Żelaznej Bramy, MRatusz Arsenał.

124 Warsaw In Your Pocket

MAGIA BRYLANTÓW This unique and exclusive jewellery shop is handily located on one of Warsaw’s more famous streets, Krakowskie Przedmieście, and right on the way to the Old Town. For that reason alone, there’s nothing stopping you from visiting - we highly recommend it! This is no normal jewellery and antique shop, for it’s run by the very passionate and down to earth Kasia Kałużny-Janus, who is more than eager to help you pick that perfect item. Here, you will find hand-picked glitzy items with an antique feel, with pieces from the 17th-20th centuries - two items which caught our eye were 4th century Roman coins made into rings - truly unique. So great is Magia Brylantów that it’s become quite popular amongst Polish celebrities hoping to find their very own distinctive pieces, so if you want that something extra special, this is the perfect place to find it.QG‑5, ul.Krakowskie Przedmieście 62, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 500 80 01 65, www.magiabrylantow.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES The stylish denizens of Warsaw’s streets are an easy indicator that fashion is important in the capital city. Trot out anything less than your best and it won’t go unnoticed, we promise you. With the opening of dom handlowy VITKAC the city has seen the arrival of major labels like Gucci and Lanvin, and the Likus Concept Store is a reliable go-to for the latest designer offerings. Check out high quality Polish brands like Reserved, Vistula and Tatuum, all of which you’ll undoubtedly find in Warsaw’s shopping centres like Zlote Tarasy and Arkadia.

PRACOWNIA PROJEKTOWA ANNA KRZYŻANOWSKA It’s now been a number of years since Anna Krzyżanowska packed in the office rat race in order to follow her passion for fashion. This was a bold and inspired move which has seen her couture creations become some of the most sought out designs in town. Visit her elegant showroom, housed in the glamorous Zamojski palace, to view the collection of reference pieces on display, arrange an initial consultation and decide whether to start the process of designing and creating a unique piece made especially for you. As well as womenswear for all occasions, the studio also offers a bespoke menswear service for the discerning gent.QG‑7, ul. Mikołaja Kopernika 13/1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 500 16 29 24, www. annakrzyzanowska.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun open by prior arrangement.

TFH KONCEPT This one-time pop-up shop has set down roots in a snazzy new permanent location, which means you now know exactly where to find the city’s hottest fashions. TFH’s new boutique displays an impressive selection of stylish t-shirts, handbags and tops from a variety of young Polish and international designers as well as tasteful Warsaw-

Shopping themed items like scarves and neckerchiefs! They also have paintings and graphics for sale from some of Poland’s best up and coming artists plus frequent exhibitions and gallery openings.QG‑7, ul. Szpitalna 8, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 502 48 83 48, www.tfhkoncept. com. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.

VICTORIA’S SECRET This boutique certainly needs no introduction. Even if you know nothing of fashion, you’ve no doubt heard of Victoria’s Secret, the brand that has become synonymous with stylish lingerie and glitzy angel winged fashion shows.

Warsaw, it seems, is delighted to have Poland’s only VS stores, and although previously their only boutiques in the city were on the smaller scale of grand, focusing mainly on accessories & perfumes, the new store in the city centre’s Złote Tarasy shopping mall is much bigger than before (now including Victoria’s Secret PINK), but the opening of Poland’s first VS flagship store in Arkadia Shopping Mall, with the full selection of clothing, including their lingerie, perfumes and accessories has gone down well with fashion bloggers and Varsovians alike! In Arkadia, you can’t miss it - it’s located right at the front entrance!QC‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II 82, MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 22 323 72 33, www.victoriassecret.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

FOOD & SWEETS NAMASTE INDIA Better known as one of Poland’s best takeaways, Namaste also doubles as a bit of a grocery store with a small but decent line of products imported from Asia – including herbal shampoos, heat-and-eat curries, soft drinks and spices. Lots of spices.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia. pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.

CIGARRO CIGAR SHOP & LOUNGE PASAŻ LIPIŃSKIEGO al. Jerozolimskie 61, Warszawa tel. + 48 668 834 688, pl@cigarro.pl codziennie 11-23, every day11-23

www.cigarro.pl

Shop s all thing Poland!

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS BOLESŁAWIEC POTTERY If you aren’t familiar with Poland’s famed folk pottery brand, don’t leave the capital without introducing yourself. Handpainted with traditional folk motifs and highly functional, this shop stocks plenty of brightly patterned ceramics and tableware that is sure to prove the perfect gift for anyone you know who has a kitchen. They even speak English! We can’t get enough of it.QD‑7, ul. Prosta 2/14, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 624 84 08, www.ceramicboleslawiec. com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. CEPELIA Your first stop for tacky souveniers. Amongst the tat also find traditional Polish handicrafts: table cloths, ceramics, glass etc. Also at ul. Chmielna 8 (G-7).QF‑8, ul.

Marszałkowska 99/101, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 628 77 57, www.cepelia.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 15:00. Closed Sun.

GIFTS, CITY GUIDES, EXPERIENCES, SOUVENIRS & MORE. iyp.me/polandshop warsaw.inyourpocket.com 125

Shopping ROCK SHOP You know a city has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe and is there anything which says ‘I’ve been there’ more than a Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the ‘Warsaw’ one to add to your collection at the shop inside the HRC in the Złote Tarasy development opposite the train station.

QE‑8, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrock.com/warsaw. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

SHOPPING MALLS ARKADIA If you can’t find it in Arkadia, you probably never will.

Covering a total area of 287,000 m2 this five floor leviathan stands out as one of the biggest shopping malls in Central Europe, receiving approximately 45,000-70,000 visitors a day. For fashion there’s Lacoste, Peek & Cloppenburg, Tommy Hilfiger, New Look and more, a giant Media Markt store takes care of all your electronic needs, for foodstuffs there’s Carrefour and foreign press available at Empik. Entertainment comes in the form of a 15-screen multiplex. The food court has recently been expanded, now containing more eateries to choose from. Connected by 9 tram lines, 6 bus routes and with space for 4,000 vehicles.

QC‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II 82, MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 22 323 67 67, www.arkadia.com.pl. Open 10:00 22:00. Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

FACTORY OUTLET ANNOPOL FACTORY’s second Warsaw location is a little bit out of town but that usually means the further you travel the bigger the discounts! This massive offprice outlet features brands like: Nike, Adidas, Smyk, Ecco, Empik, Guess, Wrangler, Pepe Jeans, Reserved, Mohito, Marc O’Polo, Converse, Vans, Puma, Tefal, Tommy Hilfinger and more. To get there take Metro M1 from “Centrum” to “Marymont” and then change to bus 132 and then get off at “Toruńska” bus stop (this stop is by request only so no napping).Qul. Annopol 2 (Białołęka), tel. (+48) 22 441 90 00, www.annopol. factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

FACTORY OUTLET URSUS This outlet centre is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over other shopping malls. Recognisable names among the brands include Desigual, Adidas, Reserved, Etam, ASICS, Brax, United Colors of Benetton, Smyk, Empik, Rossmann, Medicine, New Balance, O Bag and many more. One of the only such outlet centres in Europe, you can access it by taking the SKM train from Śródmieście and getting off at SKM Ursus, or by catching bus 127 at Dworzec Centralny and switching to bus 194 or 716 at PKP Włochy. Your final destination will be Ursus-Ratusz. If you are traveling by car, take the S8 route or Nowolazurowa street.QPl. Czerwca 1976r. 6 (Ursus), tel. (+48) 22 478 22 70, www.ursus.factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 20:00.

126 Warsaw In Your Pocket

PLAC UNII CITY SHOPPING Plac Unii City Shopping is one of the capital’s newest shopping malls and one of its best located as well. Just a few stops from the city centre, head straight to stop ‘pl. Unii Lubelskiej’ using the 501 bus or even easier, tram nos. 4, 18 & 35 (the alternative is to head to Metro Politechnika and walk the short distance to Plac Unii). Walk across the street into the intuitive internal passages, which are an extension of streets converging on Plac Unii, making it easy to access from any direction. Relatively small in size and elegant and modern in design, choose from over 70 shops, restaurants, cafes and outlets including iSpot, Zara, Empik, Hebe, H&M, Douglas, Liu Jo, Bobbi Brown, Tous, Massimo Dutti and homegrown Polish cult megastore Supersam (open 08:00-21:00). Calypso Fitness Club (Mon-Fri 06:0023:00 and Sat-Sun 08:00-20:00) is also here for the fitness freaks. Despite the Sunday trading ban, restaurants Ramen and Piazza Ristorante remain open.QG‑12, ul. Puławska 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 204 04 99, www.placunii. pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

VITKAC The giant ‘Gucci’ sign is your first hint this isn’t your typical shopping centre, and the heavy security is the second.

Shoppers can find the popular Likus Concept Store on the main level of the sprawling structure while labels like Givenchy, Kenzo, Armani, Dsquared2, Alexander McQueen, Celine, Gucci, Burberry, Versace, Off-White, Diesel, Bottega Veneta and Yves Saint Laurent are spread over the remaining four levels, with roughly three employees available for every browsing customer. The atmosphere is more museum than mall, but if you’re looking to splurge on designer names then this is your headquarters (also visit their online shop). If maxing out your credit card works up an appetite be sure to head to Restauracja Concept 13, which offers sweeping city views.QG‑8, ul.

Bracka 9, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 310 73 13, www.vitkac. com. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

ZŁOTE TARASY Located next to the central train station in the heart of Warsaw, the Złote Tarasy complex signals a bold shift away from the out-of-town malls found in Warsaw and features familiar stores like Sephora, New Balance, Van Graaf, Reserved, Home&You, LeCreuset, Douglas, Hugo Boss plus the Warsaw flagship H&M, Victoria’s Secret, Undiz and Etam.

Leisure visitors can see a movie at the modern Cinemaplex Multikino Złote Tarasy. There are also over 30 restaurants and bars spread over 5 levels including Poland’s first Hard Rock Café. The central architectural showpiece is a 10,000m glass dome, which fitted with a special mechanism to both filter sunrays and to stop snow from building up.QE‑8, ul.

Złota 59, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 222 22 00, www. zlotetarasy.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

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warsaw.inyourpocket.com 127

Directory 24-HOUR PHARMACIES APTEKA BEATA QC‑6, Al. Solidarności 149, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 620 08 18, www.aptekabeata.pl.

24-HOUR POST OFFICE

AUSTRIAN EMBASSY IN WARSAW QI‑13, ul. Gagarina 34, MPole Mokotowskie, tel. (+48) 22 841 00 81, www.ambasadaaustrii.pl.

BRITISH EMBASSY IN WARSAW QJ‑11, ul. Kawalerii 12, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00, www. gov.uk/government/world/poland.

POCZTA POLSKA QF‑7, ul. Świętokrzyska 31/33, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 505 32 18, www.poczta-polska.pl.

CANADIAN EMBASSY IN WARSAWQH‑9, ul.

Matejki 1/5, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 584 31 00, www.canadainternational.gc.ca/poland-pologne.

CITIZENSHIP ISSUES

DANISH EMBASSY IN WARSAW QF‑6, ul. Marszałkowska 142 (6th floor), MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 565 29 00, www. ambwarszawa.um.dk.

POLARON Did you know that by having Polish heritage you are eligible for Polish citizenship/passport (an EU Member)?

Have you ever tried dealing with Polish bureaucracy? If you plan to do it yourself - good luck. With IYP staff speaking with experience on this matter, we know the situation has improved greatly in the last 10 years, however, it’s nowhere near perfect... far from it - simple issues can be bogged down in red tape and leave you feeling helpless and frustrated, so imagine trying to resolve a citizenship application! Thankfully, this is where Polaron steps in, a blessing in disguise, who will do all the work for you, from a free assessment of your case, sourcing archival documents, translations, completing application forms and liaising with relevant government agencies on your behalf. It’s hard to sum up how stress free you will be not dealing with Polish officials. The best bit, you will get the results you seek, or your money back!Qtel. (+48) 537 64 59 19, www. polaron.eu.

COMPUTER REPAIR LAPTOPCONTROL.PL QH‑8, ul. Smolna 13/13, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 500 41 03 89, www.laptopcontrol.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. MEGA SERWIS Qul. Opaczewska 43 lok. 8, tel. (+48) 22 828 44 30, www.laptoprepaircenter.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES There are over 95 embassies in Warsaw. Here are some of those most relevant to our readers.

AMERICAN EMBASSY IN WARSAW QH‑9, Al. Ujazdowskie 29/31 (entrance from ul. Piękna 12), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 504 20 00, www. pl.usembassy.gov.

AUSTRALIAN EMBASSY IN WARSAW QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 521 34 44, www.australia.com.

128 Warsaw In Your Pocket

DUTCH EMBASSY IN WARSAWQJ‑11, ul. Kawalerii 10, tel. (+48) 22 559 12 00, www.netherlandsandyou.nl.

FRENCH EMBASSY IN WARSAW QH‑9, ul. Piękna 1, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 529 30 00, www.ambafrance-pl.org.

GERMAN EMBASSY IN WARSAW QH‑10, ul. Jazdów 12, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 584 17 00, www.polen.diplo.de/Vertretung/polen/pl/ Startseite.html.

IRISH EMBASSY IN WARSAW QG‑8, ul. Mysia 5, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 564 22 00, www.dfa.ie/irish-embassy/poland.

ISRAELI CONSULATE & EMBASSY IN WARSAW QE‑11, ul. Krzywickiego 24, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 597 05 00, www.israel.pl.

ITALIAN EMBASSY IN WARSAW QF‑6, Pl. Dąbrowskiego 6, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 826 34 71, www.ambvarsavia.esteri.it.

SOUTH AFRICAN EMBASSY IN WARSAW QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 54, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 622 10 31, www.dirco.gov.za/warsaw.

SPANISH EMBASSY IN WARSAW QJ‑11, ul. Myśliwiecka 4, tel. (+48) 22 583 40 00, www. exteriores.gob.es/embajadas/varsovia/es/Paginas/ inicio.aspx.

SWEDISH EMBASSY IN WARSAW QH‑12, ul. Bagatela 3, MPole Mokotowskie, tel. (+48) 22 640 89 00, www.swedenabroad.se.

DENTISTS CCS LUDNA QI‑8, ul. Ludna 10A, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 625 01 02, www.ccsludna.pl.

Directory DENTALUXQB‑15, ul. Racławicka 131, tel. (+48) 22 823 72 22, www.dentalux.pl.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY

GENEALOGY

In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following: Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997.

NATIONAL ARCHIVE QF‑4, ul. Krzywe Koło 7, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 92 68, www.warszawa.ap.gov.pl.

REGISTRY OFFICE QE‑5, ul. gen. Wł. Andersa 5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 443 12 30, www.um.warszawa.pl.

LAUNDRY 5ASEC QE‑8, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 693 21 17 99, www.5asec.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

BLANC LYS Qul. Antka Rozpylacza 2A, tel. (+48) 508 16 28 10, www. polska.blanc-lys.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

REAL ESTATE COSMOPOLITAN APARTMENTS QD‑8, ul. Twarda 4, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 535 10 10 10, www.apartamentycosmopolitan.pl. P­L­H­F LOCO REAL ESTATE AGENCY QD‑8, ul. Sienna 72 lok. 14, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 515 00 01 45, www.n-loco.com.

RELIGIOUS SERVICES ST PAUL’S ENGLISH SPEAKING CATHOLIC PARISH English-language mass held each Sunday at 12:00 and student’s mass 19:30. English confessions take place on the 1st Friday of every month (best check their website for times).QD‑5, Al. Solidarności 80, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 600 38 49 16, www.warsawcatholics.pl.

WARSAW INTERNATIONAL CHURCH (PROTESTANT) English-speaking services every Sunday at 11.00. Entrance from Schillera Street.QF‑4, ul. Miodowa 21B, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 601 33 10 32, www.wic.org.pl.

RELOCATION COMPANIES AGS WORLDWIDE MOVERS Qul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 702 10 72, www.ags-globalsolutions.com.

GOSSELIN MOBILITY Qul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 737 72 01/(+48) 606 80 37 80​, www.gosselinmobility.eu.

English, German and Russian speakers have separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: +48 608 59 99 99 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay.

For urgent medical emergencies, use the listings below.

The emergency room in PL is called SOR, and should only be visited if it is really necessary. In less urgent crises, we recommend you visit a private clinic, where you’ll get better service and avoid the long queues in Polish hospitals.

CAROLINA MEDICAL CENTER One of the most modern and respected private medical clinics in Europe, with 24/7 Accident & Emergency.

Consultations can be arranged with specialists in English, French, German, Russian, Spanish and Polish.

QH‑7, ul. Pory 78, tel. (+48) 22 355 82 00, www. carolina.pl.

CENTRAL CLINICAL HOSPITAL EMERGENCY ROOM (SOR) QE‑15, ul. Wołoska 137, MRacławicka, tel. (+48) 22 508 15 10, www.cskmswia.pl.

LUX-MED Private medical clinic in the Marriott Hotel. Also at ul.

Domaniewska 41B, ul. 17 Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawła II 78 (C-3) and ul. Bobrowiecka 1 (K-15).QE‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88, www.luxmed.pl. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. WARSAW CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL Obviously you can take a child to any emergency room (SOR) in Warsaw, but this one is exclusively for children.

QG‑6, Kopernika 43, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. +48 22 830 53 00, www.wsdz.pl/pl.

PRO RELOCATION QE‑9, ul. Złota 3/10, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 630 61 00, www.prorelo.com.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App warsaw.inyourpocket.com 129

Hotels

The impressive ballroom in Polonia Palace Hotel (P.131).

CREAM OF THE CROP BELLOTTO HOTELQF‑5, ul. Senatorska 13/15, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 829 64 44, www. hotelbellotto.pl. 20 rooms (4 apartments). P­K­H­D­ F­w hhhhh HILTON WARSAW HOTEL & CONVENTION CENTREQC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 63, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 356 55 55, www.warsaw. hilton.com. 314 rooms (10 apartments). P­U­L­6­ K­H­C­D­F­w hhhh HOTEL BRISTOL WARSAWQG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 551 10 00, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl. 206 rooms (41 apartments). P­U­6­K­H­C­D­F­w hhhhh

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning Y WarsawPass Tourist Card F Fitness centre

H Conference facilities

K Restaurant

U Facilities for the disabled

D Sauna

L Guarded parking on site

6 Animal friendly

w Wellness

C Swimming pool X Smoking rooms available

130 Warsaw In Your Pocket

HOTEL WARSZAWA QF‑7, Plac Powstańców Warszawy 9, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 470 03 00, www.warszawa.hotel.com.pl.

U­L­6­K­H­C­D­F­w hhhhh INTERCONTINENTAL QE‑8, ul. Emili Plater 49, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com.

414 rooms (76 apartments). P­U­L­6­K­H­C­D­ F­w hhhhh MAMAISON HOTEL LE REGINA WARSAW QF‑3, ul. Kościelna 12, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 531 60 00, www.mamaison.com. 61 rooms (2 apartments). P­U­L­K­H­C­D­F­w hhhhh MARRIOTTQE‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 630 63 06, www.warsawmarriott.com.

523 rooms (95 apartments). P­G­U­L­6­K­H­C­ D­F­w hhhhh RAFFLES EUROPEJSKI WARSAW QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 255 95 00, www.raffles.com/ Warsaw. P­6­K­D­F­w hhhhh REGENT WARSAW HOTEL QI‑13, ul. Belwederska 23, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 558 12 34, www.regent-warsaw.com. 246 rooms (2 apartments). P­X­T­U­L­6­W­K­H­C­D­ F­w hhhhh

Hotels SHERATON WARSAW HOTEL QH‑9, ul. Prusa 2, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 450 61 00, www.sheraton.pl. 350 rooms (19 apartments). P­U­ L­6­K­H­D­F hhhhh SOFITEL WARSAW VICTORIA QF‑6, ul. Królewska 11, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 657 80 11, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw. com. 366 Total rooms. P­U­L­6­W­K­H­C­D­F hhhhh THE WESTIN WARSAW HOTEL QD‑7, Al. Jana Pawła II 21, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 450 80 00, www.westin.pl. 366 Total rooms. P­U­L­ 6­K­H­D­F hhhhh

UPMARKET HOLIDAY INN WARSAW CITY CENTRE QD‑8, ul. Twarda 52, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 257 66 99, www.ihg.com/holidayinn/hotels/us/en/warsaw/ wawcc/hoteldetail. 256 Total rooms. P­T­U­6­K­ H­F hhhh HOTEL SIXTYSIX QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 66, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 61 11, www.hotelsixtysix.com. 18 Total rooms. P­6­W­K­H­F hhhh LEONARDO ROYAL HOTEL QC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 45, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 278 88 88, www.leonardo-hotels.com. 178 rooms (1 apartment). P­T­U­L­K­H hhhh MERCURE WARSZAWA CENTRUM QE‑8, ul. Złota 48/54, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 697 39 99, www.mercure.com. 338 Total rooms. P­U­L­ 6­K­H­D­F hhhh MERCURE WARSZAWA GRAND QG‑9, ul. Krucza 28, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 583 21 00, www.mercure.com. 299 rooms (6 apartments). P­U­ L­6­K­H­F hhhh NOVOTEL WARSZAWA CENTRUM QF‑8, ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 596 00 00, www.accorhotels.com. 742 rooms (1 apartment). P­U­L­K­H­D­F hhhh POLONIA PALACE HOTEL QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 45, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 318 28 00, www.poloniapalace.com. 206 rooms (1 apartment). P­U­6­K­H­D­F­w hhhh RADISSON BLU SOBIESKI HOTEL QC‑9, Pl. Zawiszy 1, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 579 10 00, www.radissonblu.com/en/sobieskiwarsaw. 452 rooms (30 apartments). P­U­L­6­K­ H­D­F hhhh warsaw.inyourpocket.com 131

Hotels MID-RANGE

(2 apartments). P­U­L­K­H­F hhhh

BEST WESTERN HOTEL FELIX Qul. Omulewska 24 (Praga Południe), MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 22 210 70 00, www.bwfelix.pl.

227 Total rooms. U­L­6­K­H­w hhh

GOLDEN TULIP WARSAW AIRPORT QAl. Krakowska 235, tel. (+48) 22 118 58 58, www. goldentulipwarsawairporthotel.com.

90 rooms (1 apartment). P­U­L­6­K­H­D­F hhhh

CHOPIN BOUTIQUE BED & BREAKFAST QH‑7, ul. Smolna 14/7, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 829 48 00, www.bbwarsaw.com. hhhh

RENAISSANCE WARSAW AIRPORT HOTEL Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 H, tel. (+48) 22 164 70 00, www. renaissance.waw.pl.

P­U­L­6­K­H­C­D­F­w hhhhh

GOLDEN TULIP WARSAW CENTRE QC‑9, ul. Towarowa 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 582 75 00, www.goldentulipwarsawcentre. com. 143 Total rooms. P­U­6­K­H­D­F hhhh IBIS STYLES WARSZAWA CITY QD‑7, ul. Grzybowska 43, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 488 33 00, www.ibis.com. P­T­U­H­F hhh IBIS WARSZAWA CENTRUMQB‑6, Al. Solidarności 165, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 520 30 00, www. hotelibis.com. 182 Total rooms. P­U­L­6­K­H hh MDMQG‑10, Pl. Konstytucji 1, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 339 16 00, www.hotelmdm.com.pl. 134 Total rooms. U­6­K­H hhh

SOUND GARDEN HOTELQul. Żwirki i Wigury 18, tel. (+48) 22 279 14 11, www.soundgardenhotel.pl.

206 rooms (5 apartments). P­U­L­6­K­H hhh

BUDGET START HOTEL ARAMISQH‑7, ul. Mangalia 3B, MWierzbno, tel. (+48) 22 207 80 00, www.hotelaramis. pl. 210 Total rooms. U­L­6­K­H h START HOTEL ATOSQH‑7, ul. Mangalia 1, MWierzbno, tel. (+48) 22 207 70 00, www.hotelatos.pl.

70 Total rooms. U­L­6­K­H hh

APARTMENTS

METROPOLQF‑8, ul. Marszałkowska 99A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 325 31 00, www.hotelmetropol.com.pl.

211 Total rooms. U­K­H hhh

AMBASADA APARTMENTSQH‑7, ul. Foksal 1, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 826 52 04, www. apartmentsambasada.com. 9 apartments. 6

MOXY WARSAW PRAGA As if Warsaw’s Praga district (p.50) wasn’t vibrant enough, it’s even livelier now with the addition of the city’s first Moxy Hotel. Found in the stylish Praga Koneser Center (p.52), this is certainly a hotel for the young and free-spirited (or for those led by their youthful hearts) with the world just a few swipes or clicks away. Moxy is all about self-service, giving you full control of how you experience their space. As you arrive, you are greeted with a welcome drink. Lovely. As for the rooms, all 141 contain TVs with Chromecasts, Netflix and Youtube installed for your pleasure. Their NOW public spaces consist of 4 zones for you to choose from, depending on your energy levels: library, lounges, communal space and food & beverage area (breakfast not included in the cost). Definitely an energetic place to stay in.QK‑3, ul.

Ząbkowska 29, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 279 66 99, www.moxywarsaw.pl. P­U­L­6 hhh

PLATINUM RESIDENCEQC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 61, tel. (+48) 22 419 00 00, www.platinumresidence.com. 200 rooms (173 apartments). P­T­U­L­W­K­C­D­F­w

REZYDENCJA BELWEDERQH‑12, ul. Flory 2, tel. (+48) 22 695 19 00, www.belweder-klonowa.kprp.pl.

22 Total rooms. P­T­U­K­H­C­D­F­w

KROKODYLQul. Czapelska 24 (Praga Południe), MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 510 23 02 62, www. noclegikrokodyl.pl. 21 rooms (10 doubles, 1 quad, 9 sixperson roon, 1 eight-person room). L

AIRPORT HOTELS COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT WARSAW AIRPORT Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 00, www.courtyardwarsawairport.com. 236 rooms 132 Warsaw In Your Pocket

P&O APARTMENTSQE‑5, ul. Antoniego Corazziego 4, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 513 10 33 41, www. pandoapartments.com.pl. 170 apartments. U­L­6 RESIDENCE ST. ANDREW’S PALACE QF‑8, ul. Chmielna 30, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 826 46 40, www.residencestandrews.pl. 24 apartments. P

HOSTELS HOSTEL PUFFA LUXQG‑5, ul. Karowa 31, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 535 55 08 55, www. puffahostel.com/pl/drugi-obiekt. W

OKI DOKI CITY HOSTELQF‑7, Pl. Dąbrowskiego 3, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 828 01 22, www.okidoki. pl. 37 rooms (17 doubles, 3 triples, 2 quads, 9 six-person room, 6 eight-person room, 150 dorm beds). 6­Y

Street Register 1 Sierpnia A-16; B-16 29 Listopada J-11; K-11/12 Adama Idźkowskiego J-9 Adama Mickiewicza C-1; D-1 Adolfa Pawińskiego A-14; B-12/14 Adolfa Suligowskiego K-12/13 Agrykola H/J-11 Akademicka B-11; C-10/11 Al. “Solidarności” A-7/L-1 Al. 3 Maja I-7; J-7 Al. Armii Ludowej E/H-11; H/J-10 Al. Ireny Sendlerowej D-4 Al. Jana Chrystiana Szucha H-10/12 Al. Jana Pawła II B-1/E-9 Al. Jerozolimskie A-10/ H-7 Al. Jerzego Waszyngtona L-6 Al. Józefa Becka L-15 Al. Kazimierza “Dziadka” Lisieckiego H-3; I-3 Al. Księcia Józefa Poniatowskiego K-6/7; L-6 Al. Księdza Józefa Stanka H-9; I-8/9; J-8 Al. Na Skarpie H-8/9; I-9 Al. Niepodległości E-10/12; F-12/16; G-16 Al. Piotra Drzewieckiego D-6; E-6 Al. Polski Walczącej L-13 Al. Przyjaciół H-10 Al. Róż G-10; H-10 Al. Szpitala Ujazdowskiego H-10; I-10 Al. Tysiąclecia L-2/3 Al. Ujazdowskie H-9/12 Al. Wielkopolski D-11 Al. Wincentego Witosa K-16 Al. Wojska Polskiego B/D-1 Al. Wyzwolenia G-10; H-10 Al. Zgrupowania AK “Kryska” J-8/9 Al. Zieleniecka K-4/6; L-6 Aleksandra Fredry F-5 Aleksandra Gierymskiego I-14/15; J-15 Aleksandra Sulkiewicza H-12/13; I-12 Aleksandra Wejnerta G-16 Alfreda Nobla L-7 Alojzego Felińskiego C-1 Andrzeja Frycza Modrzewskiego L-4 Andrzeja Krzyckiego C-10/11 Anny German A-1 Antoniego Edwarda Odyńca E-16/ H-15 Antoniego Józefa Madalińskiego E/H-14 Antoniego Mackiewicza K-4 Antoniego Malczewskiego F/H-16 Architektów A-13/14 Archiwalna A-13; B-13 Armanda Călinescu H-9/10 Artura Grottgera I-13/14 Asfaltowa F-13/14 Bagatela H-12 Bagno E-7; F-7 Balladyny E-14/15 Bandoski I-16; J-16 Barbary Ludwiżanki J-16; K-15/16 Barska A-11; B-11 Bartycka K-12; L-12 Bednarska G-5; H-4/5 Belwederska H-12/13; I-13/14 Berezyńska K-7; L-6/7 Berka Joselewicza L-4 Bernardyńska L-16 Bertolda Brechta H-2; I-1/2 Biała C-6; D-6 Białobrzeska A-11/13; B-10/11 Białostocka J/L-2; J-3 Biały Kamień D-13/14 Bielawska H-16 Bielańska E-5; F-5 Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 roku A-12 Bobrowiecka K-14/16 Bohaterów Getta E-4/5 Bolesława Prusa H-8/9 Boleść F-3; G-3 Bonifraterska D-2/3; E-3/4 Bracka G-8 Bronisława Wieczorkiewicza K-3 Browarna G-5; H-5/6 Brzeska J-3; K-3/4 Bugaj F-3; G-3/4 Bulwar Bohdana Grzymały-Siedleckiego I-6 Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej J-7/8; K-8/9 Bulwar Jana Karskiego F-1/3; G-3/4 Błogosławionego Ładysława z Gielniowa D/ E-11 Cecylii Śniegockiej I-9; J-9 Celna F-4; G-4 Chełmska I/K-14 Chmielna D/G-8; D-9; G-7 Chocimska H-12/13 Chłodna B-7; C-6/7; D-6 Ciasna E-3; F-3 Cicha H-6/7 Ciepła D-6/7 Czerniakowska I-8; J-8/9; K-10/15; L-15/16 Czerska K-13/14 Czeska K-7; L-7 Czynszowa J-1; K-1/2 Częstochowska A-11; B-11 Dawna F-4; G-4

Dobra G-4/5; H-5/6; I-6/7 Do Fortu C-15/16 Dolna H-15; I-14/15 Dominika Merliniego H-15/16 Dorotowska A-12; B-11/12 Dowcip F-6; G-6 Dunajecka A-12 Dworkowa H-13/14 Dynasy G-6; H-6 Dziekania F-4; G-4 Dzielna B/D-5; D-4 Dzika B-3; C-3 Dąbrowiecka K-7/8; L-8 Dąbrówki L-6/7 Długa E-4/5; F-3/4 Edwarda Gibalskiego A-5/6 Edwarda Szymańskiego A-8/9 Elektoralna C/E-6; E-5 Elizy Orzeszkowej A-12/13 Emila Zegadłowicza A-8/9 Emila Zoli G-11; H-11 Emiliana Konopczyńskiego G-7; H-6/7 Emilii Plater E-7/9; F-9/10 Esperanto B-4/5 Estońska K-6/7 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej C-16 Fabryczna I-9; J-9 Falęcka G-14 Faustyna Czerwijowskiego H-10/11 Fawory D-1 Filtrowa C/F-11; C-10 Finlandzka K-6/7 Floriańska I-3 Foksal G-7; H-7 Folwarczna K-2; L-2 Francesca Nullo H-9; I-9 Franciszka Bartoszka K-16; L-16 Franciszka Kostrzewskiego J-15/16 Franciszka Ksawerego Dmochowskiego I-9; J-9 Franciszka Salezego Jezierskiego I-10; J-9/10 Franciszkańska E-3; F-3 F. Żwirki i S. Wigury B-15/16; C-11/15 Francuska L-6/8 Freta F-3/4 Fryderyka Chopina G-10; H-10 Gabriela Piotra Boduena F-7; G-7 Galijska L-6/7 Gallijska L-6/7 Garbarska G-4/5 Gen. Józefa Zajączka B/D-1 Gen. M. Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza G-5/6 Gen. Władysława Andersa D-2/4; E-4/5 Genewska L-8/9 Geodetów A-13/14 Gimnastyczna D-15; E-15/16 Gliniana B-4; C-4 Gorlicka A-15/16; B-16 Goworka G-12; H-12 Grażyny G-14; H-14 Grodzieńska K-2; L-1/2 Grzybowska B/E-7; B-8; E-6 Grzymały A-10/11; B-11 Grójecka A-12/14; B-11/12; C-9/10 Górczewska A-6/7 Górnośląska H/J-9 Górska J-13/14 Heleny Kozłowskiej K-16; L-16 Henryka Barona A-6; B-6 Henryka Sienkiewicza F-7 Hoża E/H-9; H-8 Huculska H-14/15; I-14 Ignacego Krasickiego G-15/16 Inflancka C-2/3; D-2/3 Inżynierska I-2; J-2 Iwicka J-13/14 Jagiellońska H-1/2; I-2/3; J-3/4 Jakuba Jasińskiego H-4; I-3/4 Jakubowska K-6/7 Jana Dantyszka C-11; D-11 Jana Feliksa Piwarskiego I-15; J-15 Jana III Sobieskiego I-14/15; J-14/16; K-16 Jana i Jędrzeja Śniadeckich F-10; G-10 Jana Kilińskiego F-4 Jana Piekałkiewicza K-16; L-16 Jana Styki L-7/8 Jana Zamoyskiego J/L-4 Janka Bytnara “Rudego” E-16; F-16 Jankowska B-15/16 Janusza Groszkowskiego I-1/2 Janusza Korczaka B-8/9 Jarosława Dąbrowskiego E-15; F/H-14; F-15 Jasna F-6/7 Jawaharlala Nehru K-13; L-13 Jaworowska I-16; J-16 Jazdów H-9/10; I-10/11 Jazgarzewska J-14/15 Jezuicka F-4; G-4 Johna Lennona H-9/10 Juliana Bartoszewicza G-6; H-6 Juliana Bruna E-13; F-13 Juliana Kulskiego D-14; E-14 Juliana Przybosia G-7; H-7

Jurija Gagarina I/K-13 Józefa Korzeniowskiego B-11; C-11 Józefa Lewartowskiego C-4; D-3/4 Józefa Mianowskiego C-10/11 Józefa Mireckiego “Montwiłła” A-5/6; B-5 Józefa Siemieńskiego A-13/14; B-13 Józefa Szanajcy H-1; I-1 Kaliska B-10/11 Karmelicka C-3/4; D-4/5 Karola Bohdanowicza A-15; B-15 Karola Dickensa A-13/14 Karola Linneusza H-1; I-1 Karola Szymanowskiego I-1 Karowa G-5; H-5 Kawęczyńska K-2; L-2 Kazimierzowska F-13; G-13/15 Kielecka E-13/14; F-14 Kolejowa A/C-9; A-10 Konduktorska I-14/15 Konwiktorska E-2/3 Koszykowa C/H-10; C-9; D-9 Kozia F-4/5; G-5 Krakowskie Przedmieście F-4/5; G-5/6 Kredytowa F-6 Krucza G-8/10 Krzywe Koło F-3/4 Kręta I-12/13 Książęca H-8; I-8 Księcia Trojdena B-13/14; C-14 Księdza Ign. Kłopotowskiego H-4; I-3/4; J-3 Kujawska H-12 Lekarska F-10/11 Leona Kruczkowskiego H-6/7; I-7/8 Leona Schillera F-4 Leszno A/C-6; A-7 Lipowa H-5/6 Lipska K-7; L-6/7 Lubelska L-3/5 Ludna I-8; J-7/8 Ludomira Różyckiego E-14; F-14 Ludwiga van Beethovena J-16; K-16 Ludwika Idzikowskiego K-16; L-16 Ludwika Narbutta E-14; F/H-13; F-14 Ludwika Rydygiera A/D-1; A-2; B-2 Ludwika Waryńskiego G-10/12 Ludwika Zamenhofa D-3/4 Lwowska F-10 Maratońska E-15/16 Marcina Kasprzaka A-8; B-8 Mariensztat G-4 Marii Skłodowskiej-Curie C-11/12 Marszałka Ferdynanda Focha F-5 Marszałkowska E-5/H-12 Maurycego Mochnackiego B-11; C-10/11 Mazowiecka F-6/7 Michała Bałuckiego G-14/15; H-15 Miodowa F-4 Mińska L-4 Mokotowska G-9/11; H-8/9 Moliera F-5 Mordechaja Anielewicza B-5; C-4/5; D-4 Most Świętokrzyski J-5 Mołdawska A-16; B-14/16 Mysia G-8; H-8 Myśliwiecka I-9/10; J-10/11 Młynarska A-5/7 Nalewki D-3/4 Namysłowska I-1; J-1 Niska B-4; C-3/4; D-3 Nowogrodzka C/F-9; F-8; G-8 Nowolipie C-5/6; D-5 Nowolipki B/D-5; D-4; E-4 Nowomiejska F-3/4 Nowowiejska E/G-10 Nowy Zjazd G-4 Nowy Świat G-6/8; H-8 Obozowa A-5 Oboźna G-6; H-6 Obrońców K-7/8; L-7 Odolańska F-15; G-14/15; H-14 Ogrodowa B/D-6; B-7 Okopowa B-3/7 Okólnik H-7 Olesińska G-14; H-14 Olimpijska D-16; E-16 Olszewska G-13; H-13 Ordynacka G-7; H-7 Ossolińskich F-5; G-5 Otwocka L-1/2 Panieńska H-3/4; I-4 Parkingowa G-8 Parkowa I-12/13 Paryska L-8 Pasaż Stefana Wiecheckiego “Wiecha” F-7/8 Pawia B-5; C-5; D-4 Pańska C-8; D-8; E-7 Piaseczyńska I-14/16 Piekarska F-4 Pilicka G-16 Piwna F-4 Piękna F-10; G-9/10; H-9 Pl. Artura Zawiszy C-9

Pl. Bankowy E-5 Pl. Emila Młynarskiego F-7 Pl. Gabriela Narutowicza B-10/11; C-10/11 Pl. generała Józefa Hallera H-1/2; I-1 Pl. Grzybowski E-6/7 Pl. Inwalidów C-1; D-1 Pl. Konstytucji G-10 Pl. Krasińskich E-4; F-4 Pl. marszałka Józefa Piłsudskiego F-5/6; G-6 Pl. Na Rozdrożu H-10/11 Pl. Politechniki F-10 Pl. Powstańców Warszawy F-7; G-7 Pl. Sokratesa Starynkiewicza D-9/10 Pl. Trzech Krzyży G-8; H-8/9 Pl. Unii Lubelskiej H-12 Pl. Zamkowy G-4 Pl. Zbawiciela G-10 Platynowa C-9; D-9 Podchorążych I/K-13 Podwale F-4 Pokorna D-3 Polna F-10/11; G-11/12; H-12 Poselska L-7/8 Powsińska L-16 Powązkowska A-2/3; B-3 Poznańska F-8/10 Promenada I-14 Prosta B/D-8; D-7 Pruszkowska A/C-14 Przechodnia E-5/6 Przejazd C-16 Przyokopowa B-7/9 Przyrynek F-2/3 Próżna E-7; F-7 Ptasia E-6 Puławska G-12/13; H-12/16 Rabindranatha Tagore F-16 Racławicka A-15/H-15 Radna H-6 Radzymińska K-2; L-1/2 Rafała Krajewskiego D/F-1; E-2 Rakowiecka E/G-13 Raszyńska C-9/11 Ratuszowa H-2/3; I-1/2; J-1 Romualda Traugutta F-6; G-6 Rondo Gen. Charles’a de Gaulle’a G-8; H-8 Rondo Ignacego Daszyńskiego C-8 Rondo Jazdy Polskiej G-11 Rondo Jerzego Waszyngtona L-6 Rondo ONZ D-7; E-7 Rondo Romana Dmowskiego F-8 Rondo Stefana Starzyńskiego G-1; H-1 Rondo Zgrupowania AK “Radosław” B-2/3 Rozbrat I-8/10; J-10 Rycerska F-4 Rynek Nowego Miasta F-3 Różana F/H-14 Sandomierska G-13/14 Sanocka B-14 Sapieżyńska E-3 Saska L-6/7 Senatorska E-5; F-4/5 Seweryna Goszczyńskiego G-16; H-16 Siedlecka L-2 Siedmiogrodzka A-8; B-8 Sienna C/E-8 Siewierska A-12; B-12 Skaryszewska K-4; L-4 Skierniewicka A-8 Skwer Herberta Clarka Hoovera G-5 Smocza B-4; C-4/5 Smolna G-8; H-7/8 Sokola J-4/6; K-4 Solec H-6/7; I-7; J-7/9; K-9/10 Sowia G-5 Spacerowa H-12/13; I-13 Spartańska D-16 Spiska B-10; C-10 Spokojna A-3; B-3 Srebrna C-9 Stalowa I-2; J-1/2; K-1 Stanisława Dubois D-3 Stanisława Moniuszki F-7 Stanisława Noakowskiego F-10 Stanisława Skarżyńskiego A-13 Stanisława Staszica A-6/7 Stara F-3 Starościńska G-13 Stawki B/D-3; B-4 Stefana Batorego E/G-12; E-13 Stefana Bobrowskiego A-12/13 Stefana Czarnieckiego C-1 Stefana Jaracza I-6/7 Stefana Okrzei H-4; I-3/4; J-3 Stefana Starzyńskiego G-1; H-1 Strzelecka J-1; K-1 Stępińska J-13/14 Sulmierzycka A-16 Szarych Szeregów A-9; B-9 Szczęśliwicka A-10/12 Szeroki Dunaj F-4 Szkolna F-6/7

Szlenkierów A-6/7 Szpitalna G-7/8 Szwedzka J-1; K-1 Szwoleżerów J-11; K-11 Sąchocka A-15 Sękocińska A-10; B-10 Słoneczna H-12/13 Słupecka B-10; C-10 Służewska H-10 Tadeusza Boya-Żeleńskiego G-12; H-12 Tadeusza Czackiego G-6/7 Tadeusza Korsaka K-2/3 Tadeusza Rejtana G-13; H-13 Tamka G-7; H-6/7; I-6 Tarchomińska K-2/3 Tarczyńska C-9/10 Targowa I-2/3; J-3/4; K-4 Tatarska A-3 Teofila Lenartowicza G-16; H-16 Topiel H-6 Towarowa B-7/8; C-8/9 Trasa Siekierkowska L-14/15 Trębacka F-5; G-5 Twarda C-9; D-7/9; E-7 Tyniecka H-15/16 Tytusa Chałubińskiego E-9/10 Ukryta C-16 Uniwersytecka C-11 Ursynowska G-15; H-15 Walecznych K-7; L-7 Walentego Skorochód-Majewskiego A-13/14 Waleriana Łukasińskiego I-2/3 Waliców C-6; D-6/7 Wandy L-8 Warecka G-7 Warowna C-15/16 Wawelska B/E-11 Wał Miedzeszyński K-7/8; L-8/9 Wałowa E-3/4 Wenantego Burdzińskiego H-1 Widok F-8; G-8 Wiejska H-8/9 Wierzbowa F-5 Wiktorska E/H-15; H-14 Wilanowska J-8 Wilcza E-10; F/H-9; F-10 Wileńska I/K-2; K-1 Williama Heerleina Lindleya D-9/10 Willowa H-13 Winnicka B-12 Wioślarska J-7/9 Wiślana H-5 Wiśniowa F-12/13; G-13/15 Wojciecha Oczki D-9; E-9 Wolność B-5/6; C-6 Wolska A-7; B-7 Wołoska E-14/16 Wronia B-6; C-6/9 Wspólna E/G-9; G-8 Wyb. Gdańskie F-1/3; G-3/4 Wyb. Gdyńskie E-1; F-1 Wyb. Helskie F-1; G-1/3; H-3/4 Wyb. Kościuszkowskie G-4; H-4/6; I-6/7; J-7 Wyb. Szczecińskie H-4; I-4/5; J-5/6; K-6/7 Wyględowska C-15/16 Wójtowska E-2/3; F-2 Wąchocka L-8/9 Wąski Dunaj F-4 Władysława Broniewskiego A-1; B-1 Władysława Korotyńskiego A-14/15; B-15 Władysława Skoczylasa H-1/2; I-2 Zajęcza H-6; I-6 Zakroczymska E-1/3; F-3 Zbyszka Cybulskiego J-14/15 Zgoda F-7; G-7/8 Zielna E-6/7; F-7 Zwierzyniecka K-12/13; L-13 Zwycięzców K-8; L-8 Zygmunta Krasińskiego A-1 Zygmunta Modzelewskiego F-16 Zygmunta Słomińskiego B-3/ F-1 Ząbkowska J-3; K-2/3 Złota D-8; E-8; F-7 Łazienkowska J-10; K-10 Łochowska L-1/2 Łomżyńska L-1/2 Łowicka E-13/15; F-15 Łucka B-8; C-7/8; D-7 Łukasza Górnickiego D-11 Śliska D-8; E-7/8 Śmiała D-1 Środkowa J-1/2 Św. Andrzeja Boboli D-13; E-13/14 Świętej Barbary F-9 Świętojańska F-4; G-4 Świętojerska D-4; E-3/4; F-3 Świętokrzyska D/G-7; G-6 Świętych Cyryla i Metodego I-2/3 Żelazna C-5/7; D-7/9 Żupnicza L-4 Żurawia F-9; G-8/9 Żytnia A/C-6

warsaw.inyourpocket.com 133

Index 12on14 Jazz Club 108 AB Everest Travel 28, 65 Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature 37 Aficionado Room - Cigar & Whisky Lounge 105, 122 A Footbridge of Memory 57 AïOLI Cantine 88 AleGloria 90 Ambasada Apartments 132 Amber Room 90 Arkadia 126 Art Gallery Amber Silver Line 123 Art Studio Jewellery Schubert 123 Atelier Amaro 76 Aurelio - Culinary & Art 80 Back Room Bar 105 Bar and Books 105 Barn Burger 73 Bar Salad Story 96 Bar Studio 106 Bar-Szawa 106 Bazar Kocha 80 Beef n’ Pepper 94 Bellotto Hotel 130 Belvedere 90 Benihana 86 BEST WESTERN Hotel Felix

132 BLACK Real Burgers 'n' Bar

73 Bolesławiec Pottery 125 Bollywood Lounge 78 Boska Praga 80 Brasserie Warszawska 90 Bristol Wine Bar 110 BrowArmia 110 Buddha Indian Restaurant

78 Bułkę przez Bibułkę 68 Burger Bar 73 Butchery & Wine 94 Cafe Mozaika 90 Cafe Próżna 68 Café Vincent 74 Central Committee of the Polish United Workers' Party

61 Cepelia 125 Česká Pivni Restaurant 77 Ceviche Bar 98 Champions Sports Bar Restaurant 106 Chicago's Bar & Grill 74 Chopin Benches 43

134 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Chopin Boutique Bed & Breakfast 132 Chopin Monument & Temple of Sibyl 45 Chopin Mural 43 Chopin Point Warsaw 43 Church of the Nuns of the Visitation 43 Ciao Napoli 85 Cigarro - Cigar Shop & Lounge 106, 122 City 24 Restaurant Grill & Bar 74 Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whisky 107 Copernicus Science Centre

33 Courtyard by Marriott Warsaw Airport 132 Croccante 68 Croque Madame 69 Cud Miód 92 Czerwony Wieprz 92 Dawne Smaki 92 Dom Polski 92 Dom Polski Belwederska 93 Drugie Dno - Multitap Bar

107 Du-za Mi-ha 100 Elixir by Dom Wódki 93 El Popo 98 Ethnographic Museum 29 ETNO Café 69 E. Wedel Chocolate Lounge "Old-Fashioned Shop" 69 FACTORY Outlet Annopol

126 FACTORY Outlet Ursus 126 Fat Buddha 75 Flyspot Warsaw Indoor Skydiving 117 Focaccia Ristorante 85 Folk Gospoda 93 Former Gestapo HQ 32 Fotoplastikon 33 Free Speech Memorial 61 Free Walkative! Tour 28 Frey Wille 123 Fryderyk Chopin Birthplace & Park in Żelazowa Wola 65 Fryderyk Chopin Museum 43 FSO Shooting Range 116 Fun Park Digiloo 116 Fusion 78 Galeria Bursztynek 123 Genesis + Steak 80 Ghetto Heroes Monument

57 Golden Tulip Warsaw Airport 132 Golden Tulip Warsaw Centre 132 Gościniec Polskie Pierogi 94 Grand Kredens 80 Groole 96 Hala Gwardii 80 Hala Koszyki 82 Hangar 646 117 Hard Rock Cafe 74, 107 Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Convention Centre 130 Holiday Inn Warsaw City Centre 131 Holy Cross Church 43 Hostel Puffa Lux 132 Hotel Bristol Warsaw 130 Hotel SixtySix 131 Hotel Warszawa 130 How You Doin'?

69 Hulakula Leisure Centre 116 Hustler Gentlemen's Club

115 Hydrozagadka 107 Ibis Styles Warszawa City

132 Ibis Warszawa Centrum 132 InterContinental 130 ISKRA Pole Mokotowskie 108 Jackpot Warsaw 777 108 Jack's Cinema Bar & Restaurant 75 Jazz Club Akwarium 108 Jewish Ghetto Wall Fragment 57 Jewish Historical Institute 54 Kamanda Lwowska 100 Karova Music Club 112 Katyń Museum 29 Kita Koguta 108 Klub SPATiF 108 Koko & Roy 75 Krokodyl 132 Kuchnia Warszawska 94 Kufle i Kapsle 110 LAS 94 La Sirena: The Mexican Food Cartel 98 L'avanti Restaurant & Cocktail bar 89 L'avanti Restaurant & Cocktail Bar 109 Legends British Bar & Restaurant 106 Leonardo Royal Hotel 131

Level 27 112 Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne 78 Lilou 123 Literatka 94 Lokal Vegan Bistro 100 Lokanta 90 Magia Brylantów 124 Mamaison Hotel Le Regina Warsaw 130 Mango Vegan Street Food

82 Marriott 130 MDM 132 Memorial to the Evacuation of Warsaw Ghetto Fighters

57 Mercure Warszawa Centrum 131 Mercure Warszawa Grand

131 Merliniego 94 Metropol 132 Miłość 85 Miniature Park 29 Modlin Fortress 65 Mokotowska 69 95 MOMU 95 Monument to the Warsaw Uprising 59 Moxy Warsaw Praga 132 Multimedia Fountain Park

118 Munja 76 Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship 46 Museum of Life in the PRL

63 Museum of Modern Art on the Vistula 30 Museum of Polish People's Movement 30 N58 Club 113 Na bałkany 76 Na Lato Day & Night 82 NA LATO Day & Night 113 Namaste India 78, 125 National Museum 30 National Stadium Ice Rink

118 Niebo 113 Novotel Warszawa Centrum

131 Nożyk Synagogue 55 Odette Pastry Shop 69 Oh My Pho 76 Oki Doki City Hostel 132

Index Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery 55 Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre 37 Old Town Ice Rink 118 Opera 114 Orzo People Music Nature

89 Palace of Culture & Science

63 Palace on the Island 46 Palmiry National Memorial & Museum 65 Panorama Sky Bar 109 Pawiak Prison 33 PGE National Stadium 53 Piazza Ristorante 86 Pinball Station 117 Piw Paw 110 PKiN Ice Rink 118 Plac Grzybowski 55 Plac Konstytucji 62 Plac Unii City Shopping 126 Platinum Residence 132 Playhouse Gentleman's Club 115 P&O Apartments 132 POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews 55 Polish Army Museum 30 Polish Vodka Museum 10, 52 Polonia Palace Hotel 131 Poster Museum 49 Pracownia Projektowa Anna Krzyżanowska 124 Praga District Museum 51 Praga Koneser Center 52 Presidential Palace 39 Prime Cut 82 Prodiż warszawski 96 Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel

131 Raffles Europejski Warsaw

130 Regent Warsaw Hotel 130 Renaissance Warsaw Airport Hotel 132 Residence St. Andrew's Palace 132 Restauracja Kultura 83 Restauracja Oliva 89 Restauracja Polonia 95 Restauracja Różana 96 Restauracja Rusiko 78 Rezydencja Belweder 132 Rico 98 Rock Shop 126

Room 13 Club & Lounge 114 Room Escape 118 Royal Castle 36 Rozbrat 20 83 Ruins of the Rising 57 Ruza Roza 77 Saska Kępa - Ul. Francuska

53 Saski Palace 32 Senses 76 Sexy Duck 86 Sheraton Warsaw Hotel 131 Silk & Spicy 100 Smolna 114 Sofitel Warsaw Victoria 131 Sogo Club 115 Soho Factory 52 Sokotra 90 SomePlace Else 75, 106 Soto Sushi 88 Sound Garden Hotel 132 Soviet War Cemetery 63 Spacca Napoli 86 Spin City 117 St. Anne's Church 49 Stara Kamienica 96 Start Hotel Aramis 132 Start Hotel Atos 132 Strefa Restaurant & Bar 83 TAPAS Gastrobar 98 TFH Koncept 124 THAISTY 100 Thai Thai 100 The Alchemist GastroPub

109 The Cool Cat 83 The Heavens of Copernicus

118 The ROOTS Cocktail Bar & more 110 The Warsaw Amber Museum 37 The Westin Warsaw Hotel

131 The Wilanów Palace Museum 48 To Lubię 74 Trattoria Da Antonio 86 U Barssa 97 U Fukiera 97 Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/CSW) 46 UKI UKI 88 ul. Marszałkowska 62 ul. Nowy Świat 40 ul. Ząbkowska 51 Umschlagplatz 57

U Szwejka 77 Uwolnić Kury 96 Veg Deli 100 Vege Miasto 82 Venti-Tre 86 Victoria's Secret 125 Vistulan Boulevards 119 VITKAC 126 Vodka Museum 10, 30 Wabu Sushi & Japanese Tapas 88 Warsaw City-Tour 28 Warsaw Museum 36 Warszawa Wschodnia 97 Warszawski Sznyt 84 Wawel 69 Wilanów Park & Gardens 48 Winestone 84

Winosfera 112 Woda Ognista 110 Wodny Park 119 World of Amber 123 WPT 1313 28 XXOne Night Club 115 Zachęta - National Gallery of Art 32 Zapiecek 98 Zielony Niedzwiedź 98 Złote Tarasy 126 Zoo 51, 119 Zorza 84

FEATURES & CATEGORIES Airport Transfers Ask the Concierge Breakfast Copernicus Science Centre Decoding the Menu Facts & Figures Health & Emergency Healthy Eating Hot Beer?

Chocolate Lounges Ice Skating Jazz Language Smarts Market Values Metro-Morphosis Michelin-starred POLIN Presidential Palace Quick Eats & Delivery Riding the Polish Rails Royal Castle Saski Palace Sports on TV Steak Tadeusz Kościuszko The Story of Syrenka Useful Transport Apps Vodka Translator Warsaw - Did you know?

Warsaw Street Murals Warsaw with the Kids ZOO

13 21 74 33 82 18 129 82 103 69 118 108 18 18 16 76 55 39 96 15 36 32 106 94 124 35 17 103 28 52 119 51

warsaw.inyourpocket.com 135

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