Warsaw In Your Pocket - Summer 2021

Maps

Events

Sightseeing

Restaurants

Warsaw

Nightlife

Shopping

SINCE 1992

City Guide COVID-19: Summer 2021

p.10

Warsaw Breweries Reborn

p.14

No. 118, Summer 2021

Everyday Forms of Resistance p.19

STORES IN WARSAW: Złote Tarasy, Złota 59.

Westfield Arkadia, Al. Jana Pawła II 82.

victoriassecret.pl

Contents

Warsaw Summer 2021 Visiting Warsaw during the Pandemic

p.10

‘Rusałka’ Praga district beach (G-3). | Photo: © Warsaw City Authority

Foreword p.6 Features

Visiting Warsaw during the Pandemic ��������������� p.10 Warsaw Breweries Reborn ���������������������������������������p.14

Events What’s On in Warsaw: Summer 2021 �������������������p.16

Transport p.20 Sightseeing

Essential Warsaw ������������������������������������������������������ p.22 Old Town Walking Tour ������������������������������������������� p.24 The Royal Route ������������������������������������������������������� p.30 Łazienki Park ��������������������������������������������������������������� p.36 Wilanów ���������������������������������������������������������������������� p.40 Powiśle Walking Tour ���������������������������������������������� p.42 Praga ���������������������������������������������������������������������������� p.48 Jewish Warsaw ���������������������������������������������������������� p.50 Warsaw Uprising ������������������������������������������������������ p.54 Museums �������������������������������������������������������������������� p.56

Activities & Experiences p.60 Kids & Families p.62 Day Trips from Warsaw p.64 Breakfast & Brunch p.66 4

Restaurants

New & Featured �������������������������������������������������������� p.68 Fine Dining ���������������������������������������������������������������� p.70 Casual Dining �������������������������������������������������������������p.74 Vegan & Vegetarian ������������������������������������������������� p.78 Food Markets ������������������������������������������������������������ p.80

Nightlife

Polish Alcohol ���������������������������������������������������������� p.82 New & Featured �������������������������������������������������������� p.85 Bars ������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p.86 Clubs ���������������������������������������������������������������������������� p.90 Adult Entertainment ����������������������������������������������� p.93

Shopping p.94

Maps

City Centre Map ����������������������������������������������������p.7 City Map �����������������������������������������������������������������p.8 Old Town Map ��������������������������������������������������� p.25 Royal Route Map ����������������������������������������������� p.31 Łazienki Map ������������������������������������������������������� p.36 Wilanów Map ����������������������������������������������������� p.41 Powiśle Map �������������������������������������������������������� p.43 Praga Map ����������������������������������������������������������� p.48

Foreword Welcome to Warsaw - a simple phrase we haven’t been able to use for a long time. To greet you back in Poland’s capital is a positive - we truly are thrilled you’re here, and for us to have produced this guide for you after months of enduring what was planned to be a temporary halt. More than a year after the outbreak of the COVID-19 pandemic (p.16), despite the difficulties we all endured, there's now hope. And thus begins the final Warsaw publication produced by me, your humble Editor, after four awesome years at Inyourpocket. With it comes not a lament for what the pandemic has taken, but a focus on the feeling that things will get better. My dear new home, Warsaw, has plodded on through this testing time and continues to excite long-term residents and newcomers. And now summer is here, that Varsovian vibrance is in abundance for you to enjoy. This guide is filled with a tonne of great recommendations from sightseeing (p.22), cultural events (p.14), activities (p.60) and all the gastro flavours (p.66) and nightlife (p.84) to thrill even the harshest of critics! So chins up everyone, and remember: enjoy life, stay safe and make the most of your time here. Andrew signing out.

Andrew Elliott has been living in Warsaw since 2016. With close ties to Poland, he made the big leap from Scotland to get a more in-depth grasp of this fascinating country. Personal interests include astronomy, current affairs, history, food & drink, photography & videography! There is definitely a smile under that mask.

6

Cover Story Come summertime, Varsovians head on down by the river - whether it's to walk or ride along the Vistula Boulevards (pictured, p.44), seek out beaches and bars (p.84) - this is where half the city disappears to make the most of the good weather. Join them. Photo: Adobe Stock.

Publisher & Staff Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 15,000 copies published every 2 months Writer & Editor: Andrew Elliott Sales Consultant: Jarek Śliwiński (+48) 606 749 643 Events & Marketing: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 879 494 Research: Joanna Jakubiec, Klaudia Lancewicz Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

E

F

IE SK EL B. H WY

NEW TOWN leść OLD TOWN p. 25 Po Wiśle

Park Praski

o ieg sk ow rak Sie

& Florian Cathedral go kie ińs o Jas ieg ana z s sk a l B . 43

ńs nie Pa

CI ŃS KIE

i Kr rze o Ok

ia w

ZE

tow po Kło

ka

a sk ań oj ęt

st Mo

ki ws bro Dą o sk Ślą

I

ZC

Kanonia St. John the Baptist Cathedral Jesuit Church

POW

3

I" ŚC NO R A ID Praga OLa Hospital . "Szow

ALOls Sts. Michael

p ŚLE

.S YB W

i Św na w Pi

r ce Ry ale w Pod

Military Cathedral

WARSAW CENTRE

400 m

IE SK AŃ GD gaj B. Bu WY

a ow oz Br z

a et Fr

OLD TOWN

ki ch

200

r Sta

Ogród Krasińskich

0

I

© OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.

Scale 1:16 000 1 cm = 160 m

Bo Stara Prochoffnia St. Hyacinth a w to Adam Asia and os Mickiewicz Pacific M Museum of Literature Oki Doki Warsaw Museum Warsaw Uprising Syrena Monument

a ińs rsk as nia Kr wi Pl. No

Wałowa ska ojer Święt

H

Praga District Beach

a

a sn Cia

k rs

a

a Fret

a ńsk Freta Gallery zka cis n Fra

go kie ars aK Jan lw.

Bu

ki ba Ry

źla Ko

ska żyń pie Sa

e rat nif Bo

3

G

St. Mary's Church Multimedia Mamaison Le Regina Fountain lna St. cie Benno's Park Koś St. Francis Seraph St. Casimir's

a rsk ikto nw Ko

Grodzk

a sk ań rm Fu

ła

kie ws ko sz ciu oś .K yb W

a br Do

ROYA

i rna sk wa Bro rk ow Pa ierz m zi Ka

ie ieśc edm Prz

Ni ec ała

is

5

kie ows Krak

Y W KO AN .B Przec hodnia

W

4

bra Do

ia Koz

liera Mo

PL

a Orl

L RO

6

iat Św Nowy

Kruczkowsk iego

7

rat zb Ro

e Skarpi Al. Na

YAL RO UTE

Mo koto wska

ka ejs Wi

RO owskie Al. Ujazd

G

H

8

Fra sca ti

zybo wski

Gr

a br Do

ha Cic

lnik Okó

a Br

a ańsk Pozn

ater lii Pl Emi

F

POWIŚLE

za Kruc

owa

ing M1 Park SKA OW AŁK RSZ MA

ater lii Pl Emi

II

E

a ernik Kop

t Świa Nowy

na Jas

ŁA AW AP JAN AL.

8

l pie To

y as

a Jasn

SKA OW AŁK RSZ a MA Zieln

iego Czack

wiecka Mazo

M1

iczna Gran

7

Dy n

UTE

6

9

ia Sow

tta Ge

5

MARIENSZTAT

K SZ IU ŚC O .K YB W

w eró hat Bo

Schillera

M1

Dłu ga

sk a Castle Inn a Jan Kiliński Monument Royal Monte Cassino Monument Castle Mi P&O Apartments od ow King Sigismund's a Dom Column owy Zjazd Literatury St. Anne's N OŚCI" t LIDARN Marienszta AL. "SO Nike The Armoury - Archeological Muzeum Bellotto Hotel Ratusz Arsenał O rska W a Bedna Biela SK ow Muranów Museum of ńsk a ar k IE a s y K Caricature r ln Adam Mickiewicz Jewish o t a Vodka ena eatr Monument Historical .T Museum S PlGreat Institute Theatre Warsaw W National Opera Museum of cka Presidential Ca ier University Tręba Modern Art na Palace zb National Library lett on the Vistula ow Poniatowski a Theatre Kordegarda & Gardens a a w a ro John Paul II ęst a Ka Puffa Lux G n Collection Raffles la Bristol a Wiś Europejski ow Copernicus Church of the Nuns Lip na Józef Piłsudski ral Science of the Visitation o t k Cross-monument Centre Capitol Ele a Lech Tomb of the ka Theatre adn s ń R Kaczyński y Unknown Soldier z c Elektrownia Warsaw z Smoleńsk Les Powiśle University Air Disaster Sofitel a Tadeusz Centrum Nauki Kopernik Ptasi Saxon Warsaw na ia Kościuszko n a n Victoria w Garden boź Monument Dre ska Harenda Club O gutta lew Zachęta a Trau Kró National Gallery ęcz M2 Sm Holy Cross Harenda Zaj uli of Art Church ko Nicolaus a ws w o yt kie Copernicus d e r a K Ethnographic go k m a T I Can Still See owcip ANTON HOTEL D a Mazowiecki k s Motel ONE w Nowy Świat-Uniwersytet o Their Faces b y Rooms & Apartments a Grz So Hotel Tamk a Nożyk lec SixtySix żna Kr Rysi Radisson Synagogue Pró Camera u a Sleepwell cz k Collection Fryderyk ys z a r k k k c Teatr a to n Apartments ow Hotel NBP Money y ę i d Chopin r w O o Ś Hotel Centre Kwadrat sk Bagn Museum ieg Warszawa . All Saints' gla Pl Church o a Świętokrzyska czy Pl. Powstańców Wareck Zachęta Sz Ambasada Warszawy a Projects Apartments rd a 2 M Gallery Tw Gromada ka Stairs rzys National Warszawa Gallery l ętok Boutique Świ ksa Philharmonic Centrum SKIE Royal Route Moon Fo Bed & Breakfast Rondo ONZ LIM k Janusz Korczak o OZjaO Residence k s ERM a J rze k a . s P Monument L ń A Al. 3 Pa a a Indigo ieln lna Złot Zgo Chm InterContinental Smo da New World St. Hostel St. Andrew's a 6th Floor k s i Residence Hotel Chmielna Śl d ielna efila DianaBra Chm nna Polish Army Museum The Charles de Gaulle Pl. D ck SieMercure Palm a Drama Theatre Monument PKIN Atlantic Cinema Warszawa National Museum PURO k E I o K Centrum Wid MS a OLI ia Złot MultiBabyKino Kinoteka Centrum VITKAC ROZ Mys L. JE ck A Złote a Tarasy Książęca Novotel zka Pl. Trzech Polonia grod Centrum Krzyży owo Palace N Warszawa Centralna Eurolines KIE St. Alexander's IMS Metropol ZOL Studio NYX ERO Fotoplastikon wia J .

Sheraton Buffo L Mercure A Żura Warsaw Warszawa dzka Grand Park Prusa Marriott a ólna ogro Hoż Wsp Now Kultury Warszawa Śródmieście The Music Theatre ROMA a Roommate Hoż Apartments lna a k z spó d W o r og Residence 1898 Now za Polish a H15 Boutique Hampton Wilc Hoż Apartments Parliament

by Hilton

4

9

I

2

1

Spokojna

4

.

AL

ŁA AW AP N A J

MURANÓW

POLIN

ofa enh Zam

a ocz Sm

5

OWA OKOP

ŁA II PAW a ANA Ciepł AL. J

a Wroni

ła Bia

Mi le od ow a

rs ato S en National Theatre W

Bielań ska

B

Ap Praga District r-S ep) Beach

ka

Po Wiśle

żna Pró o Bagn a Rysi

oźna Ob

Warsaw University

a row Ka

sy

zna Żela

go skie Gór Zgo ielna da Chm

B

a Krucz

VITKAC ra ck a k a z d ro g o Now a i w Żura ólna Wsp a

wa zo tus a R

lec

National Stadium

iś i W KA tyll S Flo AR lw.

L u Ś B IO

sła lanej

W

w Walicó

a Karolkow

Park

d

err

WA RO TOWA

Z

ki

W

a ańsk Kub

ka Sas

Saska Kępa ska ań syk k Me

Le Targ

ców Obroń

KĘPA

w zcó ycię Zw

6

5

4

3

2

1

a nicz Żup Soho Factory Neon Museum a k s Miń

M

8

7

ONA NGT SZY A W AL.

Skaryszewski Park

SASKA

ka ws no Cz Słonk er Wila Park a f Saska Kępa nia Śmigłego Beach ko y (A ws-Rydza Sapper pr-Sep Monument ) ka

Lu

Park im.

Janiny Porazińskiej

Wi

Książęca Pl. Trzech Krzyży

e Zamoś ci

Warszawa Wschodnia

GROCHOWSK A Stadion Narodowy

a sk jow Ki

ka cus Fran a elsk Pos ka I wic o t SK Ka YŃ cka e i SZ w E o r Z Dą b ED

rat zb Ro

SKA KOW ZAŁ S R MA

Kultury

So

JER AL. National Museum

lna Smo

PRAGA

a ck sto Praga Biało Koneser Center

cka dle Sie ka yńs ęcz Kaw

L

Poniatówka Ateneum Pliszka fe Beach ska a bow (Apr-S rry Lipsk ka Jaku go e p) s skie w o t Berez yń Lull Hostel nia o P t Czeska Mos Walecznych SKIE So LIM lec OZO

POWIŚLE

ki ys krz M2 ęto i Św

PORT PRASKI

STARA PRAGA

Centrum Nauki Kopernik

a Copernicus ow Science Lip t a Centre Mos dna zyńsk a R c z s Le

a ęcz Zaj a k Tam

K

I" ŚC lo na NO ka R Sta ów A ńs a a R ży ID wsk sk Łom Łocho OL ień z S d " o . r G AL

Bazar goHetman TA Różyckiego kie i RG ws oto krze O p o W Kł O A

Hit AL Floriańska

Bu lw .P at to na

Szwedzka

ka roc ▶T M2 wa

Warszawa Wileńska

ka ńs ile W

a low Sta ała

M

J

Wo zym iń łom ińs ska ka

Moxy Polish " CH Warszawa CI Wileńska ka Vodka OŚ Dworzec Wileński ąbkows Museum N Z R A ka Praga LID ws OPragA!partments Museum Kijo . "S

WARSAW CENTRE p. 7

Fryderyk Chopin Museum sal Fok

I

hta ec Br

jcy na za S fa ze Jó ra lle Ha Pl.

Park Praski

Nowy Świat-Uniwersytet

yska tokrz Świę cka Ware

iego Czack

ok Wid

Pa tto na

wa aro Presidential K Palace

MARIENSZTAT

Be

ZOO

H

ki ws bro ą D oSZ sk CZ Ślą st EC o IŃS M

t Świa Nowy

8

a

ecka Mazowi

Saxon Garden wska le Kró a ytow Kred

ierz bo wa

a Jasn

ka rzys iętok Leonardo Royal Hotel Rondo ONZ Św Hilton Platinum Residence ska Plac Pań a BioBazar a Warsaw Europejski Łuck Ślisk A T Uprising Museum Country 2 Country S PKIN Downtown PROa Ghetto Wall k s Fragment a Pań M2 Złot Rondo Daszyńskiego Centrum na Złote Sien a Tarasy Centrum Złot nusza Holiday Ja .

IE Ks 2◀ Handlowe M Inn MSK Crowne Plaza Jupiter OLI a Warszawa Centralna ROZ rd ka E Holiday Inn Express z J a . d a Wola Museum Tw AL ieln ogro Chm Now rna Sreb

Tw

The Westin rda a

OLD TOWN

M1

Warsaw ska Breweries GrzybowIbis Styles

MIRÓW

NEW TOWN

wa sto ta Mo

af e

Multimedia Fountain Park

Wilg

U

Świętokrzyska

Ptasia

ki a irows ow St. Carlo Pl. M rod Borromeo Og A Footbridge of Memory lna ska dna hma ow Kroc The Korczak Chło zyb Gr Orphanage

a azn Żel

L RO na

7

a ocz Sm Dy

Wolska

ka elic rm Ka

6

a Orl ie ieśc dm Prze TE

ROYA

Ibis NO Centrum LESZ

D

na ral kto Ele

ki ańs Gd

G

OŚCI"N o wy Zjazd LIDARN AL. "SO ska Ratusz Arsenał dnar

Ogród Krasińskich

a rsk Świętoje

St. Mary's

Dobrego Jedzenia

ska kań isz nc a r F

a ńsk ieży Sap

. AN GEN

SA ER

AL

Polonia Stadium a rsk ikto nw Ko

w

Rolniczy Targ

dó ne We

o ieg Krajewsk

st Mo

F

liera Mo

a Żytni

II

IDA OL . "S

fa ła

Katyń Museum

E

CYTADELA

ęd Mi

ia Okopowa Street Paw Jewish Cemetery lna e na a i Klif a z i z c Pawiak D wi Glin Prison iele An Warsaw i St. Augustines olipk Chamber w Opera No ia a w n a l P ie Dz ki El Hostel olip e Now lipi wo CI" Woln No OŚ ość RN

ki Staw ka s i N a Mił

ki aw St iskaMiła 18 N Umschlagplatz ła Mi Willy Brandt J. L Ghetto Heroes 'Kniefall' Monument Monument

ika Dz

Kolska

Maria

Czarny Kot

Powązki 3 Cemetery

Ibis Stare Miasto

ka anc Infl

Dworzec Gdański

GO SKIE MIŃ O SŁ

Westfield Arkadia

Zajączka

Warszawa Gdańska

efa Gen. Józ giera y d Ry

Ludwika Kłopot

OKO POW A

D

M1 ia Koz

rna wa Bro l pie To

Twa rda

11 Lis to p ada

B Al. Wojska PolskiegoC

ew a rto ws kie go

zy pa rko wa

ka ers rat nif Wałowa o B

Esperan to

inia Now

wa Pod

a br Do a br Do

Kruczk ows iego k

ska ow rak Bu

e Fr źla o K a sn Cia a rsk a wn Pi skie kow Kra

KIE IŃS EC Z ZC .S YB

na

A ICZ IEW CK MI . lw Bu

I ŁM WA

Okrą g

Ra Kę pn a

ska zym Zakroc ow oz B rz

Sok ola

y cin

B. G WY i ak Ryb

Lubelska

Mło go kie ars SKIE l. K Bu DAŃ

.

YB W

ka ńs nie Pa

Dąbró w

M1◀

sła aj ug

iecka ielen Al. Z

la Nob

ia ńska

ła Śmia

Wi ( rry

E KI

ska Sa

op

IE SK EL .H B WY J.

go kie ws ko a r Sie

W

ka łańs Niek

ak

B. WY i elig KIE w. R ŃS Bul GDY

A SK OŃ L EL GI JA 2 wa M rgo Ta o ieg sk row o B

Dłu ga Schillera

w kó za zc ws o br Dą ka rs ie yn ż In

a sk loń iel g a J

ka

cka pa no Ko

ka ws rko Ma a sk ze Br

Ni ec ała

A ZK ED W Z S

G rod z

a ow dk Śro Ra d

ka ws sło y m Na

a ock Otw

Ma r c ink ow skie go

ska jew Gra

a dow naro dzy a k Mię yńs Lond ndy a Wa ysk Par

cka ho ąc

B

W

a Pozn

lii P Emi

ater lii Pl Emi

z Żela

ziana Mied

WA RO WA TO

Holiday Premiere Classe Handlowe Railway Museum Inn Crowne Plaza Jupiter a ańsk

er Plat

WA RO WA TO

o Ho Now wia Żura a ólinlcaz W p s W a Hoż

Pl. Trzech Krzyży

Lennona Lennona ka ka skie owskie ejs ejs UjazdLow Al. Ujazd Al. RO YA RO UTEROYAL RO UTE Wi Wi e owskil. Ujazdowskie Al. Ujazd A

Polish Park Parliament Kultury Ronald Reagan

Cz Saska Kępa er Wila Park Ibis Budget Słonka nia Śmigłego f Beach ski Centrum ko y (A ow Sapper ąska wśsl-Rydza p zienk o n r Monument Gó t Łar-Sep) ka s o M na z yc r b Fa Ibis Budget Centrum ski nkow śląska Łazie Górno EJ t s o a M OW yczna UD FaŁbarzienkowska

AG

a a wieck yśliwieck Myśli M rat rat Rozb Rozb rat zb iec k iec k Ro yśliw yśliw M M

za Kruc

a ańsk Pozn

ater lii Pl Emi

zna Żela

Mo Mo koto koto wsk wsk a a

Kaliska

Kaliska

a wska wska niowierzo ierzo Wiś Kazim Kazim

M1 ▶K

icka Łow

I I BOBOL BOBOL DRZEJA DRZEJA ŚW. AN ŚW. AN

abaty

F

G

Tyniecka

WOŁOSKAWOŁOSKA

E

WSKA PUŁA

H

PUŁAWSKA PUŁAWSKA

kiego kiego Krasic Krasicilicka P

M1 ▶K

H

I

I

AL R ROY

Miło Miło będz będz ka ka

RASZYŃSKRAASZYŃSKA

A Ta rcz yń ska

© OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.

icka Łow

G

imska hocimska Choc C SKA

E

D

cka Kiele

O UT

C

I I OŚC OŚC EGŁ EGŁ ODL IEPODL P E I AL. N ltowaAL. N ltowa

Asfa

J

J

MARCELIN

O O IEG IEG SK SK E E I I OB OB II S II S AI AI JAN JAN

B

M1

Asfa

ukt o Kond wa Ludo

F

W PUŁA

E

KA KA RS RS DE DE WE WE L L BE a BE Parkow

AL R ROY

16

D

A SP

K

K

ka ka Bobrowiec Bobrowiec

B C WARSAW CITY

Sielecka Sielecka ępińska Stępińska StępińSstka Górska Górska

16

Iwicka

MARCELIN

icka IwickIaw

WARSAW CITY

CI GŁOŚCI EGŁOŚ E L. NIEPODL AL. NIEPOD AL Czerska

15

iowa Wiśn

Czerska

15

Kręta Kręta ka ska r A e ers d dA W lwe lweW RO Be BEeRO C CE

14

A SP

14

Lwowska

lna Po

Stępińska

MOKOTÓW

UJAZDÓW

UJAZDÓW

Iwicka

13

iego iego yńsk yńsk War War

MOKOTÓW

Po

13

Jazdów

12

FILTRY

FILTRY

LATAWIEC

LATAWIEC

ka ska ows kow załk szał a ars Mar lnM lna

Po

12

11

GR ÓJ EC K

a isk Sp

11

10

10

a isk Sp

lna Po

GR GR ÓJ ÓJ EC EC KA KA

M1

Sanocka

M1

GR Ó

za Kruc

a Parkow

Pa Pa wiń wiń ski ski ego ego

48

ŻWIRK ŻW I I WIG IRKI I WIG URY URY

Jazdów

JEC g K n o o w s Tarc A kie g zyń o ska

A

g no o ws kie g o

AG

WESRKNAIAKOWSKA OZ CZERNIAKC

Jasiels ka Sanocka

o o eg eg ski ski aru aru Z Z . .

Gen Gen

Jasiels ka

i

op

ka Bartyc

ka Bartyc

Z

L

L

W

Kub

9

M

M

16

16

15

15

14

14

13

13

12

12

11

11

10

KĘPA GOCŁAWSKA 10

9

KĘPA GOCŁAWSKA

Hotel Hostel Church Synagogue/Jewish centre Hotel Museum Hostel Gallery Church Monument Synagogue/Jewish Street Art/Mural centre Museum Tourist information Gallery Cinema Monument Theatre Street ConcertArt/Mural Hall Tourist information Bus station Cinema Train station Theatre Market Concert Hall Public Beach Bus Boatstation rental/River tours TrainSubway station line/station former Jewish Ghetto Market Public Beach Boat rental/River tours Subway line/station former Jewish Ghetto

ka

ka

s oń Baj

Karwińska Karwińska

KI ŃS

M1

PR

p.

Lwowska

p.

Szu cha

A

9

No H rna ki Sreb Ocz Warszawa ha Śródmieście Premiere Classe Railway Museum a jciec IE Radisson Blu Sobieski Ko o lnailcz K W szykowa aIMS spó W Piękna wL Polish ejoO ka Pię kna NOBUW K Golden Tulip KolO Campanile Z Parliament ooszżaykowa rodz g R o Warsaw Centre Pl. w H E ilcza J o W .

N i Hala k Ko Konstytucji AL Niem Ocz Ronald Reagan sz Al. RóżIgnacy cewic Warsaw Koszyki Warsaw Water Filters ciecha yk z a MDM II L j IE ow Paderewski Kino.Lab University Wilcz RM SK Radisson Blu Sobieski KoszykowaWo a Legia ŁAZIENKI p. n k ę i a P M I of Technology L. A a L A n Warszawa k P i ę SłuZpO NOBU Agrykola NowowiejskaKoszykowaNowowiejska O ecka Stadium R Pl. Al. Wyzwolenia . JE Hala Ujazdowski a CastleOWEJ Ko Konstytucji AL Nie Łazienkowsk s Al. RóżIgnacy Filtrow Centre for Contemporary Art a Filters UD Warsaw Koszyki Barska mcewicz Warsaw Water a Filtrowa MDM Luna zyko II LPark Kino.Lab M University Paderewski wa Legia ŁAZIENKI p. 36 Węgierska AgrykL. AR Agrykola of Technology Politechnika o Former A l a Warszawa S ł u pecka KO Agrykola Nowowiejska Botanical Gestapo owowiejska Mikołaja Reja Stadium Mochnackie PIŃ AL. ARMII LUDONW Al. WyzwolenHQ ia Garden a EJ Ujazdowski Castle SK Litews Szwo Mi ka leżeró FilEL troS Centre for Contemporary Art wK aA WAW Luna Barska A w Filtrowa Park Palace Syrena Aviator Monument Węgierska A g Politechnika rykola Agrykola on the Island 29 Lis Former topad Łazienki KO Polna Mokotów Botanical a j Gestapo e e a i Mikołaja R Mochnack PIŃ AL. A RMII LUDOWEJ Field Garden a Królewskie TR Warszawa Stadium SK Och-Theatre Litews HQ Szwo of Hunting Mi Museum ka National l ELSKA e of the Warsaw ż AWSkra e WRKS r Wi A ó Bagatela w and Horsemanship Library nn University Chopin Monument ic ka Belweder Residence Palace Syrena Piłsudski Aviator Proxima ClubMonument of Technology a Plac Unii on the Island 29 Lis Park now Park topad "Syrenka" Łazienki Polna Mokotów City Shopping Klo a Belwederski FieldStodoła Club o ka Królewskie TR Warszawa Stadium oreg Och-Theatre itnicSkra Museum of Hunting National Bofatthe RokRKS Warsaw Wi Bagatela and Horsemanship Library nn University Chopin Monument Belweder Residence Belwederski Piłsudski BicAkN a ACHA Proxima Club of Technology a Plac Unii Park GO now Park "Syrenka" E o l R City Shopping K orążych h c d o P O Belwederski Stodoła Club go BAT ka Brun a Pole Mokotowskie re kitnic Independent Juliana Bato kowiecka Ro o staf Public Central Ra ińsk NACHHospital BAClinical ich A Belwederski Reytan wa GO E R Willo Podchorążych O Regent Warsaw Hotel iercuknaa a BAT kowB t GAGARINA Pole Mokotowskie rbut liana Independent ecNka ua JR i w Ros New Iluzjon o tafiń Central Rak Księcia TroPublic ńska Theatre jdenaHospital skic lszty e Clinical M h Reytan wa o Willo uktata skieg Regent Warsaw Morskie Oko Hotel Nwairebc daliń arbutta GAGARINA y o a n k y M a ż R N Park Gra Iluzjon a New nada k s Księcia Trojd ń Theatre zty rome a k P ena s Soviet War ij Móeżlsana Belg R Cemetery Juliana Chełmska o o Pruszkowska Kulskiego utta skieskgieg Morskie Oko Narb daąlbińrow y n y MaD ż Profesorski ka Gra Park s ń a a l Odo enad a Prorsm orsk Soviet War ijska Park Wżaiknta ka BelgDolna ó R Cemetery Juliana Central Clinical Chełmska Sielecki Pruszkowska KulskiegMSWiA skiego iego ka Hospital o Dąbrow Racławicka owsk ławic Dąbr Rac ska Profesorski Racławicka ń a a k l ors Odo Scale 1:29 000 Wikt ska ka rsk Gimn irkstyonrows Park W a a a a 1 cm = 290 m s n l U o k D t RAC CentralycClinical zna Sielecki o cławic ŁAW Hospital MSWiA a skiegR a ICKA caacławick zarotki Dąbrow Racławicka 0 250 500 m OdyńR S warda d E Racławicka o a g Ludwiga van Beet orskAntonie hovena o Scale 1:29 000 Wikt Fort ka yńskieg GMokotów Goszcz rsynows imnas 1 cm = 290 m U tyczna cka RAC i a k w Wodny Park s a w ł o ŁAW kiego Rac Jawor ICKA 0 250W 500 m dyńcaczews Szarotki arda O Mal yja go Edw Ludwiga van Beet zd ntonie hovena o A g WILANÓW Fort yńskie © OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.

Goszcz Mokotów a k Wodny Park s ow kiego Park Jawor zews Malc W Arkadia yja zd WILANÓW

Warsaw Centre

SKI LIM lna OZOWspó ka JER .

L rodz A wog oża

Warszawa Śródmieście

zka a ieln grod ChmNowo

Warszawa Centralna PR

KrzywickiegoKrzywickiego

a dzian

wa da 9HolidayKoInnlejoExpress Golden Tulip ar Campanile Wola Museum Tw

zna

ak

M2◀Ks. J err

Szu cha

cka ho ąc

Pias P eczyńsk iaseczyńsk a a

y and s a k oń ys BajPar

WSKAIAKOWSKA IAKOZ CZERN C ERN

niecka wierzyniecka Zwierzy Z

O UT

E

ukt o Kond wa Ludo

Tyniecka

a Pilick

abaty

cka Kie iclkea icka Łow Łow

Top Tips for Visiting Warsaw during the Pandemic

Do as the locals do and head to Warsaw’s beaches marked on our maps . Photo: Poniatówka beach (J-7) © Warsaw City Authority.

It’s summer 2021 and we, like you, are more than ready to go all out and have some fun in Warsaw. But, ahem, hold on just a second... we don’t want to put a dampener on anyone’s summer plans (far from it, we’re here to give you the best tips on how to enjoy Poland’s capital), but there is the slight issue of the pesky ongoing COVID-19 pandemic (p.16). Here’s the sweetener, however – we’re more than 1.5 years into this shit-storm now, and despite the ups and downs experienced during this time, we’re certain it’s possible to enjoy the best the city has to offer while staying safe. Hear our message, ye people of hope!

But before we continue, a period of reflection is needed. This is more or less to point out just how privileged we feel to be able to continue producing content for you despite the difficulties we’re all experiencing. The whole episode has certainly been a strain. We feel it’s best to provide some background (context, if you will) for all our recommendations, to give you peace of mind that we have your best interests at heart. So how has the last year passed by for us, and Poland in general?

With the introduction of restrictions in March 2020, we were all taken aback by the scale and pace of the measures; put simply, our world was turned upside down. All industries were affected, but take this guide as a microcosm of these industries – each business or 10

cultural institute we have listed in every section, all of a sudden had the rug pulled from under their feet.

Closed. Indefinitely. We all pulled together and a spirit of camaraderie prevailed, with campaigns to provide meals for medical staff, vulnerable members of society and support for the gastro industry all springing up like mushrooms; all this time later, thankfully, many of those gastronomy businesses have managed to survive. There are those that didn’t prevail, of course, and we’re not even mentioning the sickening human scale in terms of deaths. But there is a glimmer of hope now and we’re here to help provide some joy, no matter how humble, to try and make things feel good again. Did you shed a tear reading this? Don’t. Pick up and move on. It’s time to enjoy life again. So what’s up in Warsaw? Plenty. And all can be experienced safely.

Summer 2021 | Visiting Warsaw during the Pandemic

Give Yourself a Guided Tour Whether you’re here alone, with friends or family, our guidebook allows you to give yourself a self-guided and informative tour, should you opt not to join an organised tour offered by one of the many tour companies in the capital. Head on out into the city, walk, read, learn and enjoy. Easy. Each section is laid out with a map, a prescribed route and listings to accompany you along the way. Choose from tourist hotspots such as the Old Town (p.24), the Royal Route (p.30), the riverside Powiśle district (p.42) or alternative Praga district (p.48). More into history?

No problem, read our thematic sections, with points of interest marked on our maps for you to navigate with ease. Ask your hotel reception or tourist information for a copy of our guide and/or accompanying Warsaw City Map. We’ve put a lot of heart and soul into making them, so feel confident in the knowledge that we’ve got you covered for all itineraries!

Enjoy Warsaw’s Riverside As soon as it gets sunny and hot in Warsaw, the locals seem to vacate the city centre and gravitate to the river. So what’s so special? It’s just like any other urban riverfront, right? Yes and no. The left bank of Warsaw’s riverfront is spanned by a concrete boulevard (p.44) lined with bike lanes, dotted with bars and cafes, play zones for children and lounge areas for everyone.

The right bank is the complete mirror opposite, consisting of wild bike and pedestrian trails through the woods. This choice between urban promenade and untamed wilderness is what makes Warsaw’s Vistula riverfront (p.44) unique. Mix and match, if you wish, using the numerous bridges found in the city. Walk, ride, or use public transport (p.20) - it’s incredibly easy to find yourself a perfect spot. If the well-trodden tourist trails get a bit too much, head on down to one of many urban beaches (marked on maps, pp.7-9) found on both sides of the river (all are marked on our maps). Don’t think about going into the water, though. Not only is it quite filthy, but the undercurrents can be lethal!

See the City by Bike One thing you’ll notice if you’re in Warsaw for the first time, is the absolutely huge amount of bike and scooter traffic, which now boasts over 500km of bike paths. It’s fair to say that you can get on your bike in any city, but with Warsaw you can experience completely different urban vibes by simply doing

loops of the city over its bridges – choose your start and endpoints, heading north-south, east-west, going from the sanitised boulevard trails (p.44) of Warsaw’s left riverbank to the more rugged, natural terrain of the east riverbank. Even before the pandemic hit, we’d spend whole weekends riding around the city, but during the lockdowns, simply going out for a bike ride provided people with a welcome outdoor activity.

If you don’t have your own bike, no problem, simply rent one of the Veturilo city bikes (p.21), which you can easily sign up for online or at the bike stations in a jiffy. Should you choose to ride a scooter with the many providers, beware, they fell under regulation recently and require you to ride on provided bike trails and stick to the speed limits. Hefty police-issued fines await those who fail to follow the rules.

Find some Street Art Urban art has exploded in popularity throughout Poland, with Warsaw having its fair share of murals.

We’ve personally documented around 200 of them in the city alone, all of which are marked with a yellow spray can on our main maps. You’ll see many near tourists trails should you not wish to venture far, however, if you have a particular passion for outdoor art, we definitely recommend checking out the Praga district (p.48), which is home to many murals within a concentrated area! The area marked on our maps (I/J/K 1-2) is a good place to start your hunt. Likewise, our online catalogue of street art may prove particularly useful in case you are seeking out a specific piece of art and wish to learn more about it!

Visit a Museum With lockdown measures finally eased, it became clear to us just how much we missed the simple things in life. Warsaw is full of museums (p.56), spanning many themes, and to all of a sudden have this wealth of cultural experiences cut off was a shock to the system.

11

Visiting Warsaw during the Pandemic | Summer 2021 But here we are again, museums (p.56) and cultural institutes have reopened, albeit with restrictions on the number of people that can enter at any one time – a small price to pay in order to keep access open. Our sightseeing section is filled with museum listings, so make sure to check the opening hours and remember that entry is not permitted without wearing a face mask!

Get a Taste of the City…

Quite a handful of restaurants did not survive the lockdown restrictions and unfortunately had to call it a day. Those that remain, trust us, are more than delighted to be able to cook up some amazing food for you. The café (p.66), restaurant (p.68) and nightlife (p.85) listings in our guide have been personally visited by us to… you know, do that hard work of giving the In Your Pocket seal of approval! We also just love food and drink, so it’s always a pleasure to sample the best gastro and bar experiences the city has to offer. With summer in full swing, even if you have apprehensions about sitting indoors to eat, the majority of venues have outdoor gardens. Sanitary measures are in place to ensure everyone gets to enjoy the experience, and safely. So check out our recommendations, we’re sure whatever cuisine tickles your fancy, we’ll have it written up for you here.

Sign up for some Retail Therapy One of the things we’d never have expected of Warsaw even just 10-15 years ago, was for the city to become a top retail destination. I mean, sure, there are malls here, but today, almost every district has a huge mall with all the latest high street and top-class fashion brands to choose from. Outlet shopping likewise has become popular, and we know of instances of people specifically flying into Warsaw to spend hundreds, nay, thousands of Euros/Dollars to take advantage

12

of the discounted prices. Whether you’re here to buy a souvenir, splash out on discounted clothing or find the latest top designer fashion brands and accessories, our Shopping section (p.94) is filled with the very best recommendations for you to explore in and around the city. All budgets are catered for, so no need to break a sweat or your bank account!

Most importantly, Have Fun… We live and work in Warsaw, but when it comes to trying to bring you the best up-to-date information about the city, we try to put ourselves in the shoes of visitors coming here for the first time. As the years have gone by, our appreciation for the city has grown, mainly down to the fact that it has a happy medium for all the things we like to see and do. All tastes are catered for, whether you’re an outdoor type, a leisurely walker, adrenaline junkie or admirer of all things historic. Every district of Warsaw has something different to offer expats, visitors and students alike.

Therefore, when we tell you to ‘have fun’, we leave it down to your own interpretation of the word in how you choose to spend your time in the city. If you’re in Warsaw solo or on business, no problem, you’ll leave fulfilled with new experiences, and if you’re here with the kids, there’s plenty to keep them occupied and for you to join in too. It’s literally all here in our guide. Use this free tool to your advantage.

Seasonal Events...

We love autumn, winter and spring for various reasons, but summer in Warsaw, even during a pandemic, is a vibrant time of year. The foliage in the city’s many parks looks amazing, the beaches are welcoming, the public swimming pools (p.60) have been revamped and the outdoor dining experiences are not only a summertime staple, but also provide peace of mind during this nasty pandemic. Our events section (p.16) has a bunch of cool things you can enjoy during your time in the city. Free outdoor summer cinema screenings, exhibitions, cultural events and concerts - it’s all there and we encourage you to try and attend at least one or two to get a flavour of the city’s artistic underbelly. With lockdown measures eased, there’s a prevailing atmosphere that everyone is just delighted to be out and about. A true joie de vivre – and no wonder! If you pick up on this vibe – go with it. If you leave Warsaw with positive experiences and a Cheshire cat grin, we’ll feel a sense of satisfication that not even a global pandemic can destroy Warsaw’s exciting reputation.

Visiting Warsaw during the Pandemic | Summer 2021

Warsaw Breweries Reborn Kapitalny! A capital experience at Browary Warszawskie.

Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, last summer was one of the most difficult in memory, and similar anxieties still haunt summer 2021 as we cautiously try to return to the pre-pandemic norms we’ve sorely missed. Although Poland has endured the same scary infection rates and societal lockdowns as much of the globe over the past 18 months, one positive has been that major urban development projects have continued with only minor delays, if any, during that time. Much like its residents, Warsaw needed a shot in the arm to bring this summer some energy and excitement, and that’s just what we got with the recent opening of the Browary Warszawskie (Warsaw Breweries) complex. With plenty planned for catching the summertime buzz we all crave, the rebirth of the Warsaw Breweries is giving us all cause to celebrate, and the perfect place to do it.

150+ years of history Originally built in 1846 as the ‘Haberbusch & Schiele Brewery,’ this brewing complex was soon the largest in the Kingdom of Poland and famous across Europe.

Devastated during WWII, the brewery continued operating during the period of communist nationalisation that followed, but struggled to succeed. Fun fact from those dreary times: Coca-Cola was actually bottled here under American license in the 1970s. The post-communist era saw the ownership of the complex change hands a few times as its economic viability was tested, but ultimately it shut down in 2004.

14

A flagship for urban renewal The huge 4.5-hectare area was derelict and forgotten when it was purchased by Echo Investment in 2004 with the aim of bringing this once-proud property back into prominence as a vibrant urban space at the centre of the city’s cultural life. After seven years of planning and development, the area is now welcoming guests to discover how the space has been beautifully transformed into today’s modern Warsaw Breweries by mixing bold new architecture with restored historical buildings, post-industrial design with green public spaces, and commercial areas with residential ones.

Specifically, the area features several revitalised buildings belonging to its past as a brewery: the Malthouse, Fabricant’s Villa, Research Laboratory and Beer Cellars. As for the modern, the development includes five new residential buildings and three office buildings. Between them you’ll find five public squares: the Malthouse Market, featuring a fountain; Brewery Gate Square, welcoming guests from ul. Grzybowska; the large Central Garden above the beer cellars; the quiet Laboratory Courtyard; and the Breakfast Square tucked off ul. Krochmalna.

As part of the project a new street was also developed and named by local residents: ul. Haberbusch & Schiele is the capital’s first ‘woonerf’ or ‘living street’ - a Scandinavian urban planning solution that puts the needs of local residents as top priority to increase the quality of city life.

Summer 2021 | Browary Warszawskie

Dining destination Undoubtedly, one of the biggest, most consistent crowd-pullers to Browary Warszawskie will be the cafes and gastronomic offerings. You can already enjoy some top-notch tastes in inspiring interiors from some of the capital’s most creative culinary influencers, and more are yet to come. Enjoy great coffee in Etno Cafe (ul. Grzybowska 60) or dobro & dobro (ul. Żelazna 59A), and don’t miss Deseo Patisserie & Chocolaterie for ice cream, sweet treats and to-die-for desserts (ul. Krochmalna 59). One place that really distinguishes itself is the Browary Warszawskie Bakery (ul. Grzybowska 56), where you can see the delicious no-additive breads being made before your eyes. Order them in a range of sandwiches, or spoil your sweet tooth with their pastries and ‘cruffins’ - yes, that’s a cross between a croissant and muffin, and the pistachio-cream is killer.

For more substantial eats visit the Balkans in the buzzy, much-loved Munja restaurant (ul. Grzybowska 60).

Prefer Spanish cuisine? Sobremesa’s Tapas Bar (ul.

Grzybowska 56) serves up brilliant dishes and also offers guests live cooking sessions for you to salivate over. The international flavours continue with Japonki, which can make a legit claim to the city’s best sushi, while Azjatka Asian delicatessen and the Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo delicatessen offer imported foods, drinks and products from Asia and the Mediterranean, respectively (all three located at ul. Krochmalna 61). The complex will soon be home to Food Hall Browary, hosting twelve diverse food concepts inside the 170-year-old beer cellars, and even more venues are on the horizon, with Olivos continuing the casual, social Mediterranean vibes, the Gastronomja meat-lovers bar, and French wine bar/shop Le Paradox. In terms of anticipation, however, the buzziest are certainly famed footballer Robert Lewandowski’s restaurant, which will lure lovers of sports and great food to the Malthouse, and the much-awaited Browar Warszawski (Warsaw Brewery), which will return the entire complex to its roots by offering 18 types of craft beer brewed on-site!

Getting there Browary Warszawskie can be found in the heart of Warsaw’s Wola district, between Grzybowska, Wronia and Krochmalna streets.

The best way to get there is either by car (parking available), taxi, or public transport. Take bus 106 to the ‘Wronia’ stop or bus 157 to ‘Mennica’.

Rolling in on trams 1, 9, 14, 22, 24 or 25, hop off at ‘Muzeum Powstania Warszawskiego’ (Warsaw Rising Museum). Alternatively, you can take the M2 Metro line to the stop ‘Ronda Dazyńskiego’ (‘Księcia Janusza’ westward direction), exiting onto Towarowa Street and turning left towards Grzybowska Street. Whichever option you use, you’re within 5mins walking distance.​ Use warszawa.jakdojade.pl to check current transport times and routes. QC-7, ul. Grzybowska 58, www.browarywarszawskie.com.pl. in August the squares around the Malthouse will host activities and events aimed at children. Take your youngest to music mornings, or turn them loose to play in the ‘sensory scenery’ made of natural materials and fabrics. For older kids, an oversized boardgame zone will be available, and outdoor games with entertainers are planned. In the evenings, the Breweries will host free outdoor film screenings every Wednesday and Sunday at 21:00 throughout the summer, as a series of Polish and international movies (with subtitles) will be shown in the squares and courtyards around the complex. Note that COVID-19 sanitary measures will be in place to keep everyone safe and comfortable, and head online for full details on these events and more that are being planned all the time: browarywarszawskie.com.pl.

Summer at the Breweries Whether you prefer to lounge around, move to the rhythm, or tickle your taste buds, Browary Warszawskie has a full ongoing calendar of happenings to integrate itself, and you along with it, into the social and cultural fabric of the capital. Eager to dispel the notion that such places are primarily for monied hipsters, Brewery events are aimed at all ages and interests. For example, every Saturday and Sunday

Modern architecture overshadowing the archaic at Browary Warszawskie

15

Events | What’s On in Warsaw: Summer 2021

What's On in Warsaw The Art of Banksy. Without Limits Exhibition | photo: Jacek Wójcikowski fotografia

COVID-19 Pandemic Coming and going, coming and going - that’s how it felt when the lockdown and subsequent restrictions were introduced and eased, reintroduced and again, eased! But here we are, infection rates remain stable despite the spread of the Coronavirus Delta variant, events are happening, cultural institutes are open, and well, basically, things are cautiously returning to normal. But there is a catch - strict sanitary rules remain in place, mainly for indoor events where everyone is expected to wear a facemask, use hand sanitizer and maintain distances of 1.5-2m where possible. But this is summer, and there are a whole host of events that are also taking place outdoors all over the city. Although we try to provide you with all the latest information, we cannot guarantee events you’ve been looking forward to won’t be affected. We advise you to check for updates by visiting our online Events section (inyourpocket.com/warsaw/ events) and the venue website. We’d hate for you to find out at the door that it’s cancelled!

16

Events by date 26.08 - 29.08 » Ephemera Festival Organised by Unsound, the specialists in modern music experimentation and mixing with the unexpected, the second edition of Warsaw’s multiarts festival Ephemera will take place in a city emerging from multiple pandemic lockdowns, bringing audiences and communities back together.

With performance at its heart, Ephemera continues to build a close connection with Warsaw’s cultural scene, engaging public institutions, artists and cultural activists, to create a compact multi-layered program tapping into the city’s vibrancy. You can expect music and captivating visual arts from Polish and international artists, with events being held in venues across the city. Expect performances from1988, Alyona Alyona, Bbymutha, Felicia Atkinson, KMRU and many more!QTickets 40-85zł, www.ephemerafestival. com.

UNTIL 28.08 » Jazz at the Old Town Square If you’re a jazz lover, this is a great series of concerts taking place every Saturday in the picturesque surroundings of Warsaw’s Old Town (p.27). Drawing

What’s On in Warsaw: Summer 2021 | Events over 40,000 festival-goers annually and into its 27th year now, this open-air festival promises to be the largest and most popular jazz festival in Poland. Check out the full schedule of who’s playing, and don’t forget, it’s all free. If you ask us, that’s a pretty reasonable price to see some big names in the Polish and jazz scene. And this year’s names are: Włodzimierz Nahorny Trio Polish Sound (31/07), Kciuk Fusion Band (07/08), Paweł Kaczmarczyk & Piotr “Bocian” Cieślikowski Quartet (14/08), Weezdob Collective (14/08), Smoliński – Chyła – Sarnecki (21/08) and Stefano Bollani Trio (28/08).QF‑4, Old Town Square, Rynek Starego Miasta, Admission free, www.jazznastarowce.pl. Every Saturday.

Exhibitions UNTIL 03.10 » Animals in Warsaw.

On The Trail of Relationships

UNTIL 31.08 » Lato na Pradze The Follow The Step agency and the new Praga Centrum cultural space in Warsaw are joining forces to bring to you the 2nd series of outdoor concerts, making this the musical heart of the city. Throughout the holidays, top Polish musicians will perform in the extremely charming garden of the Praga Centrum complex (ul. Szwedzka 2/4). Not only do you get to enjoy live music, but also sample food trucks, bars and a relaxation zone.

KAMP! is one of the most important Polish electronic bands, the authors of remixes for Brodka or Dawid Podsiadło and the hymn of Men Play 2017. They have been working continuously for over 10 years, they have albums such as “KAMP!”, “Orneta”, “Don’t Clap Hands” and “Dare”, as well as performances at major festivals and such important events as the American SXSW or the British The Great Escape.

The number of tickets on sale may increase as sanitary restrictions are loosened. The sale of gig tickets for the first 150 people for each event started on June 4 at 12:00!QK‑1, Praga Centrum, ul. Szwedzka 2/4 Hala 10, MSzwedzka, tel. (+48) 691 744 834, www. followthestep.com/en/concert/lato-na-pradze-kamp.

UNTIL 02.09 » Summer Film Capital Part of a network of city-wide outdoor film screenings taking place all summer, Pole Mokotowskie will be one of the many locations where you can chill out on chairs or blankets. Over 200 films will be projected across 25 locations around the city - all you need to do is check their site for a full schedule of screenings and decide what film you want to see, and hey presto, you get to watch a top film on the big screen all for free. The screenings will come in four cycles - French comedies, AfryKamera, Wola Summer of Film and the films of Billy Wilder.QD‑12, Pole Mokotowskie, MPole Mokotowskie, Admission Free., www.filmowastolica.pl. Every Wednesday.

This broad exhibit explores the many complex roles and relationships we have with various animals, specifically in the capital. The diversity of their presence in Warsaw throughout history is explored, as well as how their status and our attitudes towards them have changed and evolved over time in five different categories: specimens, commodities, workers, companions and neighbours. Including over 400 objects and drawing on local testimony from various eras, the goal of the exhibit is to speak out in defense of urban nature and change the way people think about animals as inhabitants of Warsaw. Entrance to the exhibit is from Rynek Starego Miasto (Old Town Market Square, p.27) 32.QF‑4, Museum of Warsaw, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 277 44 02, Admission 12/7 zł., www. muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 05.09 » The Art of Banksy.

Without Limits One of the most famous contemporary artists in the world today, the British street artist Banksy captures the public interest by putting (often illegally) his controversial, confrontational and thought-provoking work directly in the public space, and by doing so discreetly, without revealing his identity. Due to his anonymity, exhibits such as this one are not sanctioned by the artist himself, and have moved his work from the streets into actual museums and art galleries. This exhibit in the Praga Koneser Center will be the largest collection of his work shown in Poland to date, and includes over 100 works in the form of photographs, sculptures and even stencil templates created especially for this exhibition - the technique used by the artist himself. Travelling globally since 2016, some of Banksy’s best known graffiti works are included here, including ‘Girl with Balloon,’ ‘Bomb Hugger,’ ‘Police Kids,’ ‘Pulp Fiction’ and ‘Flower Thrower.’.QK‑2, Praga Koneser Center, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, Tickets from 35zł, www.koneser.eu/ en/the-art-of-banksy-without-limits-exhibition.

17

Events | What’s On in Warsaw: Summer 2021 and slogans of Herbert’s character Mr. Cogito - an everyman all too eager to share his thoughts and views as they tumble deeper into a moral quandary.

By placing Herbert’s texts in a contemporary context, Adamas redresses its relevance, giving his own personal reaction to Herbert’s work, and also challenging the viewer to re-examine its influence today.QI‑10, Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art, ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, Admission 16/8zł to all exhibitions, for two exhibitions 12/6zł, for one exhibition 10/5zł, entrance to project room 5zł, students up to 26 years of age 1zł. Thu free., www.u-jazdowski.pl. Open 12:00 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 18.11 » Greener and greener!

Projects by Alina Scholtz

‘Beksiński in Warsaw’ Exhibition

UNTIL 05.09 » ‘Beksiński in Warsaw’ Exhibition One of PL’s most internationally recognised and controversial 20th century artists, Zdzisław Beksiński (1925-2005) is known for his large, almost luminous, and emotionally charged paintings depicting monumental structures, grotesque figures and apocalyptic landscapes. The themes of war, ruin, decay and deformity are prevalent throughout his work, which has been described as both ‘fantastical realism’ and ‘dystopian surrealism;’ we’d call it something of a cross between H.R. Giger and Francis Bacon.

This exhibit in Praga Koneser Centre will be the largest of the artist’s works ever presented in the capital, featuring almost 70 paintings - many from private collections and never displayed for the public before.

The exhibit will be accompanied by film screenings and meetings with special guests associated with the artist, who was brutally murdered in his Warsaw apartment in 2005, aged 75.QK‑2, Praga Koneser Center, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, Tickets 35/25zł. Open 11:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00.

Warsaw has a reputation for being one of the greenest European capitals thanks to its numerous parks, something many residents take for granted. It wasn’t always this way - before World War II, it was one of the most densely built cities in the world. The then Mayor Stefan Starzyński decided to act, beginning the process of expanding green spaces in 1934-39. During post-war reconstruction efforts, it fell upon a visionary with a plan to make the city greener - Alina Scholtz.

A graduate of the unit of Landscape Architecture and Parks’ Expertise at the School of Agriculture, she would go on to head the Greenery Studio at the Warsaw Reconstruction Office (1945-1949) and worked at the Warsaw Urban Planning Office (19491958), where she designed modernist gardens, parks and monuments which still exist today. This exhibition

UNTIL 26.09 » Jacek Adamas ...Go This exhibit at Ujazdowski Castle unites the visual work of Jacek Adamas and the words of Polish poet Zbigniew Herbert. An important and critical voice in the Polish art world, Adamas’ work can typically be found in public spaces commenting on the current socio-political climate. Here, the gallery space has been arranged to resemble theatrical decorations, where Adamas guides the viewer through the words 18

‘Everyday Forms of Resistance’ exhibition

What’s On in Warsaw: Summer 2021 | Events is a testament to her vision of modern Warsaw.QC‑9, Wola Museum, ul. Srebrna 12, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 624 37 33, Admission 7/5zł. Thu free., www. muzeumwoli.muzeumwarszawy.pl.

UNTIL 21.11 » Everyday Forms of Resistance The result of long-running projects by Palestinian artists and the past four years of travel, research and collaboration between Polish artists and Palestinian communities, this exhibit in collaboration with the Palestinian Embassy familiarises its audience with issues relevant to Palestinians today. ‘Resistance’ in the context of the exhibit is not understood as armed opposition to nagging oppression, but rather as the everyday practice of persistence, hospitality, and memory in the seemingly insignificant, daily rituals of preparing meals, growing plants, singing songs, and rebuilding demolished houses. While avoiding heavy political rhetoric, the exhibit puts forward the perspective that for Palestinians, just carrying on with daily life actually has an inherent and unavoidable political meaning.QI‑10, Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art, ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, Admission 16/8zł to all exhibitions, for two exhibitions 12/6zł, for one exhibition 10/5zł, entrance to project room 5zł, students up to 26 years of age 1zł. Thu free., www.u-jazdowski.pl. Open 12:00 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

The best Warsaw

has to offer in one great app

UNTIL 10.01 » Wilhelm Sasnal: Such a Landscape Poland’s most successful contemporary visual artist, Wilhelm Sasnal’s works are included in some of the most important art collections in the world - NYC’s MOMA and Guggenheim, London’s Tate Modern and Paris’ Pompidou. This exhibit at POLIN will remarkably be the first exhibit of Sasnal’s work in Poland since 2007, and it is significant that it touches on Jewish issues - a subject his art is not typically known for.

Growing up in the Polish Catholic tradition under the communist regime in the shadow of the Holocaust, Sasnal confronts the irony and mundanity of PolishJewish relations in the everyday landscapes of his home country. Although they remain open to interpretation, these works from the past 20 years of the artist’s career address the formation of a nation’s identity and the politics of memory, demonstrating to the audience that each of us can create our own reality in this regard, rather than receiving an official version from the State.QD‑4, POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, Admission 20/15zł, www.polin.pl/pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue.

City Essentials Only our favourite places Works offline, incl. maps Free download Incl. dozens of other cities www.iyp.me/app

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

19

Transport

Transport

Warsaw is Poland’s most navigable city by far. | Photo: Adobe Stock

Metro-Morphosis

Tentative construction of a Warsaw metro system first began in 1938 and was spearheaded by the forward thinking mayor Stefan Starzyński, however, the first line finally opened for business a whopping sixty years later! To be fair, engineers and designers had a lot to deal with in the interim, namely the ravages of the second world war and the perils of communism. The Cold War brought a change in priorities. City planners were called to create a super-deep underground system, primarily to allow for swift troop movements below the city. By 1953 over 700 metres of tunnels had been carved underground but the death of Comrade Stalin saw all works abandoned. In 1995, the North-South M1 line opened and eventually grew to 21 stations. The east-west M2 line, intersecting at Metro Świętokrzyska, opened in 2015, originally consisting of 7 stations - 3 more were added in 2019, and a further 3 in 2020. There are plans to have 21 by 2022. The metro is key to any visit in Warsaw.QF‑8.

20

Travel within Warsaw using buses, trams and the underground metro is efficient, fast and cheap; driving a car through the centre, on the other hand, can be confusing indeed, and the capital is best negotiated on foot, by public transport or taxi. For detailed information about Warsaw's airports and train stations, visit our website: iyp.me/26ch

Public Transport Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system, as well as a good metro system with the M1 line running north-south and M2 running east-west. Over 1,500 buses operate in and around the city, and run 05:0023:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops.

Standardised tickets are valid for use on the metro, buses and trams, and can be bought from machines with instructions in English at all metro stations, and some bus and tram stops. Tickets can also be purchased from machines on the actual buses and trams, where you can pay by card, or using exact change only.

A standard single fare costs 4.40zł, or 3.40zł for a 20min ticket. If you’re travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll need a 7zł ticket that covers both zones 1 and 2 (note that the airport

Transport is still in Zone 1). Tickets valid for 24-hours, 3 days and a special 'weekend' ticket might also be worth considering. Those over 70 ride for free, as do children up until the end of September of the year they turn 7, but you must have photo ID (those who ride free still need a ticket/'wejściówka' to get through the gates of the metro - find dispensers next to the gates). Everyone else pays full fare, unless you have an ISIC card which entitles you to a reduced fare ('ulgowy' ticket).

Once you’re through the electronic gates of the metro, you're ready to ride. For buses and trams, however, there's one extra step - validating your ticket immediately once you're on board in the small 'kasownik' boxes on trams and buses. Plain clothes ticket inspectors stalk the lines, dishing out hefty fines for those without valid tickets. They often don’t look very official and you are within your rights to request identification.Qwww.ztm.waw.pl.

Car & Bike Share Traficar Want your own car, but just for a short while?

Download the Traficar app, find an empty vehicle scan the QR code and you’re in. You can leave the car in any legal parking space within their service zone, and you don't have to pay for gas! Everything is done through their easy-to-use app (in Polish only). In terms of cost versus a taxi, it comes out about the same, but as an alternative to car rental, Traficar is a wonder. You can rent a vehicle for 24 hours for only 59zł and even drop it off in another city where Traficar operates. As such, this is a great option for day and weekend trips, big shopping trips, or simply picking up friends at the airport. Note that you need to have a valid driver’s license that is recognised in PL.Qwww.traficar.pl.

Veturilo Warsaw has cemented its big-city credentials with a fleet of 4,500+ bikes at over 300 stations (including 11 electric bike stations). Veturilo is ridiculously easy: once you’ve registered online and paid the initial 10zł fee, you can visit any of the stations, select your ride, scan the bike’s QR code and you’re off! For standard bikes the first 20mins are free, and from there you pay 1zł for 21-60 minutes, 3zł for the second hour, 5zł for the third, and 7zł for each hour after that up to 12 hours; electric bikes are more expensive. When you’re done, pop your bike back into the stand at any of the stations, or if the stands are full, confirm your return via the station’s machine and use the bike chain to secure it to another bike.Qwww.veturilo.waw.pl.

Useful Transport Tools E-podroznik Travelling around Poland is becoming easier! With a host of services available to ease your travel woes, one of the best is e-podroznik (e-traveller).

This is your one stop shop for trip planning and buying tickets for all major cross-country travel in Poland, whether it be by bus or train. You can search timetables and buy tickets online by visiting en.e-podroznik.pl, or download their app.

Jakdojade Warsaw’s metro, bus and tram network is incredibly easy to use; and it's made easier with the skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the Warszawa.jakdojade.pl site and app. The former is a great tool for advance planning, but the app is more practical for figuring out how to get from A to B once you’re out in town. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically), destination, departure time, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there.

Scooter Rental Love them or loathe them, scooters are everywhere across Warsaw, even if the service providers don’t necessarily play by the rules and inform city authorities of their arrival. Now that they’re here, scooters are offered by Bird.co, CityBee.pl, RideHive.com and Li.me, and all you need to do is download their apps, register your personal data and payment details, find their locations via the app, scan the QR code and away you go. Each company has its own pricing policies, so best check their sites for more info.

Wherever you go with your scooter, don’t be that guy weaving between people and cars saying ‘sorry, dude!’ to everyone. Once done, park neatly to avoid angering locals.

Uber If you’re already an Uber user (uber.com), you’ll find that the alternative taxi service whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash, no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage across Warsaw and all of Poland, however there are some drawbacks. Specifically, Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for slightly cheaper rates.

21

Sightseeing | Essential Warsaw

Warsaw Sightseeing In the not-too-distant past, Warsaw was a sea of ruins. From the ashes it arose once more, and being compared to a Phoenix is highly appropriate. Today, Warsaw is a vibrant city, inevitably conscious of its tragic past, but buzzing with confidence, looking to the future. There’s plenty to discover here, so read on to find out more...

22

Essential Warsaw | Sightseeing

9 Essential Sights 1

Old Town Square

A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ of Warsaw’s golden days, the Old Town is also symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the ruins of WWII. See p. 27.

2

Plac Zamkowy

More of a triangle than a square, there isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city than the entrance to the Old Town! A classy location! See p. 25, 3

Łazienki Park

The name Łazienki means 'baths' and is derived from the park’s centrepiece, the Palace on the Island.

A great place to sightsee or relax. See p. 36, 4

Wilanów Palace

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century royal palace 10km to the south. See p. 40.

9

5

POLIN

1000 years of Jewish history in Poland is chronicled in this excellent museum where the Jewish Ghetto stood during WWII. See p. 51, 6

Copernicus Science Centre

One of the city's top attractions, this fun family science centre also attempts to restate the case for science in a very religious country. See p. 45, 7

Vistula Boulevards

Warsaw's left-bank boulevards are a favourite haunt of the locals - go and see why - walk, ride, or just chill on the riverside steps. Wow. See p. 44, 8

Warsaw Uprising Museum

Packed with interactive displays and other exhibits this wonderful museum chronicles the heroics and tragedy of the WWII Warsaw Uprising. See p. 55,

Palace of Culture & Science

Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’ the 237 metre structure takes its inspiration from the capitalist world, namely the Empire State Building. Over 5,000 workers were ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a purpose-built village in Jelonki. Working around the clock, it took them just three years to complete the Palace by 1955. In all 16 died during the construction, though despite the Olympian efforts of the labourers Stalin never lived to see his pet project completed.

Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing 3,288 rooms the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just party headquarters but also ‘the people’s castle’. Regardless, the building became an object of hatred and was seen as no more than a symbol of Russian hegemony. Besides the theatres, bars and museums on the ground level, visitors looking to further explore the building can take a tour, but are best directed to the viewing terrace on the 30th floor (Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00).

To get there you’ll need a ticket, after which you’ll be shepherded into an old-style lift complete with a lovely lift attendant who has probably been doing the job since the building opened.QE‑8, Pl. Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl.

Open 10:00-20:00. Admission for the viewing level is 20/15zł. You can purchase tickets online. U

23

Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour

The Old Town

The Barbican (p.27) - gateway between the Old and New Town. | Photo: krivinis, AdobeStock

A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement facades and picturesque plazas, it’s easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaw’s top tourist area. A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ of Warsaw’s golden days when it was one of Europe’s architectural pearls, Warsaw’s Old Town was actually entirely rebuilt after WWII. In the devastating aftermath of the Warsaw Uprising of 1944 (p.54), 85% of Warsaw’s left-bank lay in ruin and half of its population had perished. The Old Town was hit with particular Nazi efficiency, and by the time the Red Army rolled across the river it was little more than a smouldering wasteland. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau immediately started carefully reconstructing the historic centre using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs - a painstaking process that would last until 1962. Although what you see in Warsaw’s Old Town today is not strictly ‘original’ per say, the district is a stunning testament of the city’s rise from the ruins of WWII and of Varsovians’ great pride in their city.

24

Walking Tour IYP’s Old Town Walking Tour leads you in and around the oldest part of the city, showing you its most important and interesting points, beginning and ending near Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square) - the traditional entrance to the district. The prescribed route covers only about 1.5km. If you’re only interested in the exercise, it could take less than 30mins, but we reckon for most, an exploration of Warsaw’s Old Town will take several hours ‘if done correctly’ - that is, with a couple of short culture, food and coffee/beer breaks. If you have only one day in Warsaw, this is how you should spend it. Make sure you’ve got a full charge on your smartphone or camera, some comfy shoes and off you go.

Full contents online: warsaw.inyourpocket.com

OLD TOWN k ąs W

Rybaki W o

Jesuit Church

5

a sk ar ek Pi

Kanonia

18

St. John the Baptist

4 Cathedral

aj Bug

er sk a

15

17

a ln Ce

Castle 6 Jan Kiliński 7 Zac Inn hw Plac Po atow icza Zamkowy Royal dw Castle Mi ale od 1 3 ow a King Sigismund's P&O 2 Column a Grodzk Dom Literatury d z a j s Z No wy Kapuc yń na tor s

Bellotto

Museum of Caricature

ieście rzedm ak. P

Kr

zia Ko

Nike wy P rze ja o zd zw Dan ił owic sk a No

Se

OŚCI" LIDARN AL. "SO

ka

ka

Ka pi t uln a

a

Schille ra

13 10 12

aj un 11 iD

Bu ga j

16

k ńs ja to ię Św a wn Pi

More a palace than a castle, this building is the pride of Warsaw, reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by now deceased commie buddies such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money came via generous donations from exiled Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the residence of Polish kings, Presidents and the seat of parliament. Some of the halls are reputed to be intermittently haunted by a ‘white lady,’ whose appearance portends disaster, according to legend.

Those who plonk down for admission will have plenty to see, and although the route is regularly updated, there are core elements that are always available, beginning with the Kings’ apartments and chambers, heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments and maps from the days when the kingdom stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea. The apartments of Prince Józef Poniatowski are also open to the public (though a separate ticket is required, 15/10zł, open Wed, Sat, Sun from 10:00), and a chapel boasts an urn containing the heart of Polish hero and freedom fighter Tadeusz Kościuszko. The Houses of Parliament can also be seen, as can the opulent Great Assembly Hall. The free basement exhibition “From Destruction to Reconstruction” details the castle’s resurrection after

14

a ick zu Je

go

8

Royal Castle

Museum of Literature

a sk ie j

liń sk ie

om

Ki

w

a dn

go kie ars

9 No

rK lwa

Barbican

ć

wa zo zo Br

Asia and Pacific Oki Doki

wa to os M

c Ry le wa Pod

3

Maria Skłodowska Curie Museum 19 St. Hyacinth

King Sigismund’s Column

Built in honour of the man who moved the Polish capital from Kraków to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa this 22m column was erected back in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived, losing only his sword, and was returned to his new perch in 1949.

The remains of the original column can be seen nearby beside the Royal Castle.QF‑4.

Prochoffnia oleś B

St ar a

a et Fr

na as Ci

2

NEW TOWN Stara

Dł ug a

Plac Zamkowy

Most visits to the Old Town begin on Plac Zamkowy under King Sigismund’s Column. More of a triangle than a square, there isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city, and not a minute of the day when the steps to the statue aren’t besieged by dating couples, school kids and skateboarders. As you face ahead, the Royal Castle looms to your right and the old defensive city walls of Podwale to the left. A lot happens here, whether it’s a steady flow of locals and tourists out for a walk, protest marches starting or ending, or street performers plying their trade.QF‑4.

Bu IE SK AŃ GD B. WY

1

ta Fre

Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing

St. Anne's

MARIENSZTAT arska Bedn

World War II rendered the place a pile of rubble, while the east-wing also contains the Gallery of Paintings, Sculpture & the Decorative Arts, which has works by Rembrandt. Lastly, the newly renovated 2.5h French Baroque Royal Gardens (open daily until 20:00) are also very much worth seeing behind the castle.

QG‑4, Pl. Zamkowy 4, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. Open 11:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 30/20zł. Wed free. Children and students up to 16 years of age pay 1zł. U

Handsome backside of the Royal Castle.

25

Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour 4

St. John the Baptist Cathedral

Originally built in the 14th century, St John’s is steeped in history. The last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was crowned and eventually buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the May 3rd Constitution inside the building. The crypt holds the bodies of Henryk Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Poland’s first president) and various Mazovian knights. As with most major landmarks, it was the scene of heavy fighting during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising and was subsequently left in a heap of ruins before being rebuilt in pseudo-gothic style. On the external wall by the main entrance are fragments of a Borgward IV - a remote-controlled ordnance transporter used by the German army. It’s possible to visit the cathedral crypts Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00 and Sun 15:00-17:00 at a cost of 3/5zł (closed during mass).QF‑4, ul. Świętojańska 8, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 02 89, www.katedra.mkw.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Sun 15:00-17:30.

5

Jesuit Church

Built at the behest of King Sigismund III Vasa’s confessor, Piotr Skarga, this lovely little Renaissance church was constructed between 1609 and 1626 for the city’s Jesuit community. Having had something of a varied and colourful history to say the least, it suffered at the hands of the Swedes in the latter half of the 17th century, who looted it of its entire contents, and it even spent time as a storehouse during the Partitions. Also known as the Holy Mother of Grace Church after the city’s patron saint, the church was returned to the Jesuits at the end of WWI only to be destroyed by the Germans in 1944. Rebuilt after the war, the church has a few remaining original interior parts - of particular interest is the 17th-century picture of the Holy Mother herself. Resisting the draw of the market square for the time being, instead head down the side alley to ul. Piwna for a glimpse of St. Martin’s Church.QF‑4, ul. Świętojańska 10, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 16 75, www.laskawa.pl. Open 09:00-15:30; Sun 14:00-15:30. No visiting during mass please.

6

St. Martin’s Church

Founded in 1356 by the Duke of Mazovia Ziemowit and his wife Euphemia, St. Martin’s has been repeatedly reconstructed in the Baroque style, however, following destruction in 1944, the Baroque interior was not rebuilt and now it is largely modern, with the only surviving original element being the partially burned crucifix in the main nave. The church 26

Detail from ul. Piwna.

© Mat Fahrenholz

played a part in the resistance movement of the 1970s and 80s where opposition members would gather for meetings, or run for refuge following police actions to disperse protestors.

As you explore the area, the real beauty of ul. Piwna - aptly named ‘Beer Street’ after the 15th century breweries that once operated here - lies in the details.

Check out the elaborate motifs and gargoyles that peer from the facades, including a flock of pigeons on the portal of number 6. Stay on the left flank of the Old Town to check out the area around ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska, once home to a small square used for executions. Nicknamed ‘Piekarka,’ this is where witches and other ne’er-do-wells were burned at the stake, hanged, or beheaded.QF‑4, Ul. Piwna 9-11, MRatusz Arsenał.

7

Jan Kiliński Monument

This huge monument honours Jan Kiliński, a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence; an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment in St. Petersburg. Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally located on Plac Krasińskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful place, before being relocated here in 1959. Kiliński’s comrade and superior Tadeusz Kościuszko himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5; this wide street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the narrow street running at a 90-degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages.QF‑4, ul.

Podwale, MRatusz Arsenał.

Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing 8

The Little Insurgent Monument

The communist authorities continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, though by the early 80s cracks in their resolve were beginning to show. In 1983, this most poignant of all Uprising monuments was unveiled by the walls of the Barbican. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by collections undertaken by scouts, the bronze installation shows the figure of a boy soldier clutching a Sten gun and weighed down by an adult-sized helmet. Commemorating the children who served as messengers and frontline troops, the figure is inspired by the story of 13 year old corporal Antek, himself killed in action close to the scene on August 8, 1944.QF‑4, ul. Podwale, MRatusz Arsenał.

9

Barbican

Crowning the set of the medieval defensive walls which once protected the northern entrance to the city, this fearsome rotund structure dates from 1548, built by architect Giovanni Battista Venetian on the site of an earlier gate. Despite its intended use, the Barbican was only ever used in one fighting action when in 1656, during the Swedish deluge, Polish troops attacked to retake the city. In the 18th century, the Barbican was partially demolished with the remains being incorporated into new apartment buildings. It was during the interwar period that restoration work began to return the Barbican to its former glory, but alas, World War II put a hold to works, with it being completely destroyed. Along with the Old Town reconstruction, the fortified wall and Barbican were restored. Today, it serves as a bridge between the Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenage drinkers, buskers and ‘artists’ selling their wares.

At this point you’ll find your nose pointing straight down ul. Nowomiejska, which will finally lead you to the heart of the Old Town.QF‑4, Between ul. Rycerska and ul. Podwale. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue.

Warsaw's 'Syrenka' - centrepiece of the Old Town Square.

alefbet26/Adobe Stock

10

12

Warsaw’s Market Square rooftops

Old Town Square

Measuring 90 by 73 metres Warsaw’s O ​ ld Town Square (Rynek Starego Miasta) is Warsaw’s defining highlight, lined with richly decorated burgher houses and filled with al fresco diners in the warmer months. Among them you’ll find Warsaw’s oldest restaurant - 11 U Fukiera (Rynek 27, p.73) - which dates back to 1810, and is one of the most exclusive addresses in town. During the 15th century the Old Town Square was home to Warsaw’s Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Today you’ll find a couple of water pumps dating from the 19th century, as well as Warsaw’s best loved monument Syrenka.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta.

‘Syrenka’ - Warsaw Mermaid

The most famous Warsaw mermaid statue, or at least the one which gets the most daily eyeballs on it, is the sculpture on Warsaw’s Old Town Square. This iconic ‘syrenka’ (Polish for mermaid) was designed by Varsovian sculptor Konstanty Hegel and the original sculpture stood sentry on the square from 1855-1928 and then again from 2000-2008 before it had to be removed due to its poor condition. The repaired original was transferred to the Museum of Warsaw and replaced with a copy made by the Jacek Guzera foundry near Kielce.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 21/21A. 27

Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour we know it today. Note, a ticket here also grants entry into the Praga District Museum.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 277 44 02, www.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 11:00-18:00, Thu, Sat 11:00-20:00, closed Mon, Tue. Admission for both perm/temp exhibitions 25/18zł, perm only 20/15zł, temp only 12/7zł. Thu free. Until 31 August, tickets for the permanent exhibition with a 50% discount (10/7,50zł). U­6

Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature 14

Inside the Museum of Warsaw.

13

Museum of Warsaw

Found inside a collection of 11 Old Town tenements, this revamped museum’s stored permanent collection (300,000 items total) consists of three new curated sections: The Things of Warsaw, Warsaw Data and The History of Tenement Houses. All museum items and exhibits are displayed over 21 thematic rooms. Every item has been carefully chosen and many played starring roles in the city’s storied history; also, the majority of the collection was gifted by the citizens of Warsaw after World War 2, hoping to preserve the cultural history of the city.

Without doubt, there is plenty to see and enjoy. The very buildings the museum is located in are a sight to behold. Interestingly, despite severe damage during the war, many of the original aspects of the architecture remained intact and can be viewed during your visit. The museum is a truly amazing and kinaesthetic way of experiencing the events and understanding the processes that formed Warsaw as

Find out about the smart Alec who inspired Romanticism in Poland. As well as having a number of manuscripts and historical artefacts connected with Mickiewicz, the museum also has exhibits connected with other leading Polish writers.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 20, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 76 91, www.muzeumliteratury.pl. Open 11:00-16:00; Thu 16:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6/5zł, Sun is free for the permanent exhibit. Children and students up to 26 years of age pay 1zł. N 15

World of Illusion

An altogether different museum (in every sense of the word) in the heart of Warsaw’s Old Town, right on the Market Square, the World of Illusion is precisely that - a visually exciting and educational experience. Enter into the Matrix, a mirror room, a vortex, the room of shadows - it all sounds out-of-this world, and in a sense, it is! There are some outstanding photo opportunities to be had inside, perfect for Instagramers looking to improve their selfie game, and a special educational exhibition for groups who want to learn the extent to which the mind can be easily tricked by the eye (26/21zł per person).QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 21, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 501 80 80 06, www.swiatiluzji.pl. Open 12:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00. Admission 33/24zł. 6 16 Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre

Heritage Interpretation Centre

28

This branch of the Warsaw Museum focuses on the architectural history of the Old Town, its destruction during World War II and the rebuilding efforts thereafter. The museum includes some great interactive multimedia pieces as you walk through the old basements of the building.QF‑4, ul. Brzozowa 11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 34 02, www. ciz.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Thu, Sat 11:00-20:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission 10/7zł. Thu free. Groups over 10 people 7/5zł. U © Museum of Warsaw

Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing 17

Gnojna Góra

Demonstrating how every word sounds exotic when you don’t know the language, Gnojna Góra may sound like a charming end to your walking tour of the Old Town. And it is, for the views of the River Vistula and the Praga district beyond, but not for the name, which literally translates as Shit Hill (Dung Hill, if you wish to be more polite). For centuries, this was the dumping ground for all of the Old Town’s waste - chamber pots and buckets of rubbish, ahoy! As you can imagine, it grew over time and the distinctive shape can best be seen from the bottom.

At one stage it was actually renowned for its healing properties - people with obscene amounts of money would come here to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis (doesn’t work, we’ve tried). From here head back towards the Old Town by walking towards ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city. Finally, conclude your epic walking tour by swerving onto ul. Kanonia.

QG‑4, ul. Brzozowa, MRatusz Arsenał.

18

Ul. Kanonia Wishing Bell

Once a graveyard, this little square features a cracked cathedral bell dating back to 1646, cast by artisan Daniel Tym (who also made the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column). The bell never rang at the cathedral next to it, but it has developed its own legend: touch the top of the bell and walk its circumference and your wish will come true. Across from the bell is one of the world’s most narrow houses at number 20/22. Also note the covered walkway nearby, which links the Cathedral to the Royal Castle. This was built after a failed assassination attempt on Sigismund III. The King escaped unharmed, but the hapless hitman, Michał Piekarski, found himself skinned alive, stretched by four horses and then chopped into pieces with an axe! You yourself are now within horse-stretching

Ul. Kanonia Wishing Bell

Juan Antonio F. Segal, CC BY 2.0

Two time Nobel winner Maria Skłodowska-Curie, a child of Warsaw!

distance of your starting point on Plac Zamkowy. Point your fatigued figure in the direction of Krakowskie Przedmieście and take the path of Kings along The Royal Route next. Cue fanfare!QG‑4, ul. Kanonia, MRatusz Arsenał.

19

Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum

Born Maria Skłodowska on November 7, 1867, this museum is dedicated to the Polish lass would go on to become a famed scientist better known to the world as Madame Marie Curie. The recently renovated building which houses the museum is also the birthplace of Marie Curie. The museum exhibits encompass a charming homage to the life and work of the the Nobel Prize-winning physicist and chemist, including displays of Curie’s personal letters that show another side to the famed scientist.

Artefacts on display include many personal effects, such as black georgette coat, worn by the Nobel Prize winner during her last stay in Poland in 1932, a leather handbag, offered to her in 1921 by the Polish Women’s Alliance of America, as well as a small collection of Curie’s scientific instruments. One of the museum’s five rooms has been adapted as a recreation of Marie and Pierre Curie’s Parisian laboratory, and another focuses on the Skłodowska family, to give visitor’s a glimpse into her early and later life. The lady who gave the world so much, including the chemical element Polonium (named after the country of her birth) died in Sancellemoz sanatorium in Passy, Haute-Savoie, France, on July 4, 1934, the victim of leukaemia, which she is believed to have contracted during her many years of dangerous research. Guides are on hand for tours in English (150zł) and in Polish (100zł).QF‑3, ul. Freta 16, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 80 92, www.mmsc.waw.pl. Open 12:00-18:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 11/6zł, Tue free. U 29

Sightseeing | The Royal Route

The Royal Route ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście | © makam1969/Adobe Stock

Warsaw’s famed ‘Royal Route’ links the city’s three Royal residences, starting from the Royal Castle on Plac Zamkowy, via Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Island, en route to Wilanów Palace in the district of the same name. Covering 11km in length, this main artery through the city takes in a great range of Warsaw’s historic buildings, parks, churches and monuments, making a trek down the ‘path of the Kings’ a ‘must-do’ part of any visit to the city.

The Walking Tour The heart of the route, along Krakowskie Przedmieście and Nowy Świat, will also lead you past, or more likely into, a grand selection of bars, restaurants and shops. Granted, a few of the further out parts of the route may not be anything to write home about, but it really is worth making the effort in order to visit the beautiful Wilanów Palace, gardens and parkland. We let you know what not to miss, so let’s start at the traditional beginning heading south, or in reverse, heading north if you chose to go to Wilanów first!

30

1

St. Anne’s Church

St Anne’s survived the war with a few token scratches and a collapsed roof, but what the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished by a team of incompetent builders in 1949 when the thoughtless construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel led to several landslides and huge cracks in the floor of the church, which very nearly crashed to the ground.

It took a team of 400 people two weeks of tireless work to stabilise the undersoil and shore up the foundations. Intriguingly, this wasn’t the first time St Anne’s had survived vicious conflict to find disaster around the corner. It escaped destruction during the war with Sweden (1650-1655) only to be gutted by fire two years later, apparently the victim of an arson attack. The classicist façade dates from 1788 and is the design of the royal architect Piotr Aigner. The interior holds even more classicist and rococo details.

The viewing tower is one of the best in Warsaw and worth the 147-step climb.

One other point of interest concerns a simple wooden cross you will see there. These two planks of wood became the focus of a battle that threatened

Brzozowa

ich sińsk Pl. Kra

O Kra gród siń ski ch Monte Cassino Monument

dna Wo

Bugaj Gro

Kopernika

Nowy Św iat

Gałczyńskiego

Studio Prusa Buffo

Lenn ona

11

Ignacy Paderewski

© stepmar/Adobe Stock Al. Szpitala Ujazdowskiego

12

Park Kultury

Sena cka Maszyń skieg o

Polish Parliament

Górn ośląs ka

Jazdó w

Al. Uj azdow skie

Mate jki Ronald Reagan

ati N ul lo sc Fra

Orłowicza

Ksią żęc a

Górno śląska

Rozbrat

Sc h

Fr ed ry

Tuwima

ec Sol

Polish Army National Museum Museum

Rozbrat

Căline scu

ra Dob

Cicha

Służ ew

skiego Bulw. Kar

iel Top

za

Pl. Trzech Krzyży St. Alexander's Hoża

Wiejska

wa ko szy Ko

ska

Dynasy

10

Nowy Świat

Krucza Al. Ró ż

la Szczyg

AL. JEROZOLIM SKIE

Charles de Gaulle

Mysia

a sk ow Piękn ot k a o M Cho pina

Chopin Mural

Smolna

9

cka Bra

Wspólna

Chopin Museum

Foksal

VITKAC

Żurawia

Radna

Zaję

Tam ka

Okólnik

Chmielna

Wilcza

Lite

Sewerynów

Puchatka

Parkingowa

Nowogrodzka

Former Gestapo HQ

Ordyna cka

ka ac Br

Widok

LATAWIEC

Browarna i Parkzowsk r imie Kaz

Czackieg o

a od Zg

Chmielna

Lipowa

Bart osze wic

8

Górskiego

Szpitalna

Boduena Złota

Gęsta Wiślana

Oboźna

7

Warszawy Sienkiewicza Warecka

His defining masterpiece, Pan Tadeusz, is a beautifully Novotel written epic portraying Polish society in the 19th Centrum century. His statue dominates ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, and traces of bullet holes dating from WWII are still visible on the monument.QG‑5, ul.

Krakowskie Przedmieście 5, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

4

Nuns of the Visitation Warsaw University

5

Nowy Świat-Uniwersytet Copernicus

Pl.

a Karow

Karowa

Świętokrzys ka

MoniuszkiPowstańców

Bednarska

ańska Furm

Mazow iecka

Dowcip

łow a Ma rien sztat

Presidential Palace Poniatowski

3

Chopin Benches

6

Holy Cross

Chopin Point

Sowia

Burschego

Traugutta

Ethnographic

Rysia

Jasna

MARSZAŁKOWSKA

Zachęta

2 Krakowskie Przedmieście

cha Fo

Trębacka

St. Anne's Źród

Hoovera

a ow rzb Wie

National Opera

Tomb of the Cross-monument Unknown Soldier Saxon Garden Piłsudski

Kredytowa

na Piw

tr Pl. Tea

1

Kozia

Moliera

rska Senato alny

Ossolińskich

Królewska

dzka

Nike

iłowiczows ka Dan

a cał Nie

Much mystery surrounds his life; his role as a national cultural icon meaning that much of the seamier side of his life has been covered up, including his involvement in strange cults and alleged womanising. To this day, even his birthplace remains a hot source of argument.

Some say Nowogródek (Lithuania), others say the nearby Zavosse (Zaosie). A champion of freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak in Turkey, 1855, while recruiting a Polish legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea. Originally buried in Paris, Mickiewicz’s body now lies in Wawel Cathedral, Kraków.

Adam Mickiewicz Monument

ale dw Po

Bi

ańska Ś więtoj

a

na itul Kap

300 m

Ka AL. "SOLI DARNpu c y ńska OŚCI "

Adam Mickiewicz Monument

Mickiewicz Monument in Warsaw Patriot, poet and the man who inspired Romanticism in Poland, Mickiewicz stands out as Poland’s greatest literary figure - as well as a figure of hope during a bleak age of Russian oppression. His involvement in politics saw him exiled east in 1824 by the ruling Russians, before finally heading to western Europe in 1829. A bid to return to his homeland in 1830 was thwarted at the border, and he never saw his native Poland again.

Rycersk

150

ra ille

a ow od Mi

0

tta ale Can

2

Scale 1:18 500 1 cm = 185 m

a ńsk ela

to divide the country in the summer of 2010. To Armoury read the story behind that see our online pieceTheon the Presidential Cross: iyp.me/71061.QG‑4, ul.

Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 91, www.swanna.waw.pl. Open 09:0015:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. No visiting during mass please.

Ho ene -W roń skie go

wa oko Bar

OLD| Sightseeing The Royal Route TOWN

AL. ARMII LUDOWEJ

k ws

Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art

31

Sightseeing | The Royal Route

Fryderyk Chopin

3

Presidential Palace

Of all the landmarks that line Krakowskie Przedmieście, none is more important than the Presidential Palace that mysterious fenced-off building guarded by stone lions and stern-looking soldiers. Construction began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It then passed into the hands of various aristocratic families, becoming famed for its banquets in the 18th century the most extravagant of which marked the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789; over 2 million złoty was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests.

Chopin Monument in Łazienki Park (p.38). Marcin Chodorowski

Poland’s greatest composer, Fryderyk Chopin (1810-1849) has lent his name to everything from vodka to airports (and even an asteroid).

Most sources agree he was born on February 22, 1810, yet some claim his family could be found celebrating his birth on March 1. There’s one thing we can be certain of, however, and that’s his birthplace – the town of Żelazowa Wola (p.65) 50km west of Warsaw. Shortly after the family moved to Warsaw in 1811. By all accounts he was a prodigy from the offing. Fryderyk started learning piano aged four, and by eight had already performed at what is now the Presidential Palace (p.32). He was educated at home for the first 13 years, before attending Warsaw’s Lyceum, and then the Warsaw Music Conservatory from which he graduated in 1829. Within weeks he made a sparkling foreign debut in Vienna, before returning to Poland to perform the premier of his Piano Concerto in F minor. A keen traveller, Chopin set off to play in Vienna in November 1830. Unbeknownst to him, that was to be his last taste of Warsaw. Poland had risen against the ruling Russians. Staying in exile, he settled in playboy Paris where he was welcomed by Polish émigrés, as well as upcoming composers and high society. The 1830s saw an impressively productive spell, composing a series of acclaimed polonaises and mazurkas. The defining point in his life was in 1837 when he met the controversial author George Sand (yes, that’s a woman), which ended badly! Racked with chronic lung problems, broke, ill and broken-hearted, he passed away in Paris aged just 39. Buried in Pere-Lachaise cemetery in Paris, his body was cut open (he was petrified of being buried alive) and his heart interned in Warsaw’s Holy Cross Church (p.33). Our map on p.31 shows sites connected to Chopin along the Royal Route, marked with a musical note .

32

Presidential Palace

© makam1969/Adobe Stock

Poniatowski was to prove one of the nation’s finest monarchs and the Constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very grounds, is recognised as Europe’s first such document, and only the second in the world. After 1818 the Palace became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, entertaining many a visiting Tsar before burning down in 1852.

Extensively remodelled throughout the course of its history, one of its biggest revamps came at the beginning of the 20th century when one wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918 the Palace was commandeered to serve as home for the Prime Minister, and it amazingly survived both the 1939 Siege of Warsaw and the Warsaw Uprising five years later. It saw more momentous events in 1955 when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO - was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as the official home of the Polish president, which is why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out, and square-jawed soldiers pointing their weapons at anyone who strays too close. Current President Andrzej Duda presently resides in the Palace with his family.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

The Royal Route | Sightseeing 4

Church of the Nuns of the Visitation

Visit the church that Fryderyk Chopin attended in his youth by popping into this Baroque beauty.

Pride of place goes to the original organ which our man himself played during a part-time stint as a school organist. A plaque outside confirms the Chopin connection: ‘In honour of Fryderyk Chopin, who played on the organ in this church as a pupil of the Warsaw Lyceum in the years 1825-1826’. Make sure to call ahead and ask about their opening hours as they are subject to change.QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 34, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 692 42 25, www.wizytki.waw.pl. Open 08:30-17:00, Sat 08:3013:45, 14:30-16:00, Sun 13:00-17:00.

5

The University of Warsaw

Going further, why all of a sudden do you see young, fresh faced kids? Well, you’re in Warsaw Universityland. The Uni’s main campus lies behind the grand gateway at ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28.

Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as ‘Villa Regia,’ was remodelled and renovated several times before Warsaw U was established here in 1816. Chopin even lived here, with plaques found at the entrance to the campus - look up at the building behind you to see another location he lived in! The uni had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in retaliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the university continued to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar calmed down enough to rubber stamp the creation of a School of Medicine.

Today, with some 48,000 students on the roll call, the university stands out as the largest and arguably best in Poland. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning hack Ryszard Kapuściński, the late president Lech Kaczyński and poet Julian Tuwim.

QG‑6, Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, www.en.uw.edu.pl.

6

Holy Cross Church

No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw without first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Added to the church in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and then placed behind a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved by Leonardo Marconi.

Although this serves as the church’s key draw there are several other features of note to tempt the visitor inside this astonishing Baroque creation. The church’s history originally dates from the 15th century when

The famed gates of Warsaw University.

© Adrian Grycuk

a small wooden chapel stood on the site. Destroyed during the Swedish Deluge of the 1650s, the church was rebuilt in 1682, with the cornerstone being ceremoniously laid by Prince Jakub, son of King Jan III Sobieski. Designed by the royal architect, Jakub Bellotti, it was completed in 1696 though over time would see numerous additions to its shape. The most notable of these would come in the following century when Józef Fontana added two Baroque crowns to the square-cut twin towers. His son Jakub would later extensively refurbish the façade with Jan Jerzy Plersch adding elaborate decorative touches to the interior.

Throughout history the church has played its role in Warsaw’s glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944 the church was painstakingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the heart, eyes and soul. The organ (built in Salzburg in 1925) is the largest in Warsaw, and other points of note include an urn with the remains of Nobel Prize winning author Władysław Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons including poet Juliusz Słowacki and WWII hero Władysław Sikorski.QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10. Open 10:00-11:00, 13:00-16:00; Sun 14:00-16:00.

33

Sightseeing | The Royal Route

Copernicus Monument.

7

© Grzegorz Korczyc, Pixabay

Nicolaus Copernicus Monument

The founder of modern astronomy. A sheltered academic, he made his observations a century before the invention of the telescope and without help or guidance. His book De Revolutionibus (1543) posited that the earth rotated on its axis once a day, travelled around the sun once a year, and that man’s place in the cosmos was peripheral. This may seem obvious today, but it was an utterly radical idea at the time.

Although astronomers who propagated his ideas were burnt at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no turning back progress.

The modern cosmological view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy.

The statue itself was unveiled in 1830 and has seen its fair share of adventure. During WWII the Nazi’s placed a bronze plaque insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp - a German. In 1942, a boy scout called Alek Dawidowski ducked the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis removed the statue, hid it in Silesia and dynamited a few other surrounding monuments for good measure. The statue was recovered in the years following the war, while Dawidowski has entered Polish folklore as a result of his bravery.QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

8

ul. Nowy Świat

Nip across the ul. Świętokrzyska intersection and Krakowskie Przedmieście suddenly becomes the New World! Nowy Świat (New World Street) dates back to medieval times when it was traversed by Kings on their way between Warsaw and Kraków, with the first settlements appearing here in the 17th century. Levelled during WWII, the street found itself rebuilt in uniform neo-classical style, as returning it to its predominantly Art Nouveau pre-war style was unfeasible. Nowy Świat, along with its little off-shoot streets, has long been one of THE places to be seen and is home to numerous shops, bars and eateries - ideal 34

pitstops before shoving off to snap a pic of the former home of cult writer and Anglophile Joseph Conrad at no. 45. Drop into the renowned Café Blikle (no.

33), famous for once serving doughnuts to a young and sweet-toothed Charles de Gaulle. Just across the street you will find super trendy ul. Foksal for more gastronomic and drinking opportunities; follow it to its end to see Zamoyski Palace (ul. Foksal 1/2/4), a neo-renaissance pearl designed by Marconi and the scene of a botched assassination attempt on the Russian governor in 1863. Infuriated Cossack troops reacted by launching a piano once tickled by Chopin out the window.QH‑8, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

9

The Palm Tree

You might be wondering: what on earth is a giant palm tree doing on the traffic island at the intersection of Nowy Świat and Al. Jerozolimskie? It should come as little surprise that it’s part of a modern art project, awarded the title of ‘Greetings from Jerusalem.’

First off, the tree is not actually a tree, rather a steel column (specially designed so it can bend in the wind), covered with natural bark and leaves made from polyethylene. It’s the work of artist Joanna Rajkowska who, during a trip to Israel, was struck by the brainwave of sticking a palm tree up in Warsaw to add some sunny cheer. Continue south along ul.

Nowy Świat.QG‑8, Rondo de Gaulle’a, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet.

10

St. Alexander’s Church

The focal point of Plac Trzech Krzyży (Three Crosses Square), St. Alexander’s Church is Modelled on the Roman Pantheon and boasts a sculpture of Christ that dates from the 18th century. It was here that Allied secret agents met during WWII. Father Jakub Falkowski, parish priest of St. Alexander’s, founded the nearby Institute of Deaf Mutes and the Blind.

Continue south along al. Ujazdowskie. QH‑8, Pl. Trzech Krzyży, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 628 53 35, www.swaleksander.pl. Open from dawn till dusk.

11

Ujazdowski Park

Not as grand as the nearby Łazienki Park, it’s still a pleasant place to walk the dog and get up to other typical Sunday pastimes. There are plenty of benches to chill out on, and a play area for the kids. It is also home to Jan Ignacy Paderewski’s monument.

The park stands under the imposing shadow of Ujazdowski Castle which was rebuilt in the 1970s; head to the castle which is the final stop of this section of the Royal Route.QI‑10, al. Ujazdowskie 6, MPolitechnika.

The Royal Route | Sightseeing

U–jazdowski Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art is a place where we want to reflect on the world by means of art. In a baroque castle located next to the Royal Łazienki Park, we present exhibitions, we run a cinema, a library, a bookshop and an artistic residency programme.

Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art

Organizer

Media partners

1Jazdów

2, 00-467 Warsaw www.u-jazdowski.pl

12

Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art

A castle has stood on this site since the time of the Masovian Dukes (1300s), but the Ujazdowski Castle we see today was completed in a Baroque style in 1730 for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski (it was his bathhouse that later became the Palace on the Island and gave Łazienki park its name). Ujazdowski survived two centuries before being gutted by fire during WWII: the retreating Nazis actually tried to blow it to pieces. But - as is so often the case - what the Nazis couldn’t do, the communists could, and though the original walls and foundations remained structurally sound, in the 1950s Poland’s communist authorities decided to tear it down.

Common sense prevailed however, and the 1970s saw Ujazdowski rebuilt to its original plans. It today plays host to several large halls dedicated to showcasing rotating exhibitions of the very best contemporary art; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, featuring the work of Poland’s leading contemporary artists. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery also houses a very good bookshop and reading room where you can freely peruse a huge collection of albums, magazines and books many of which are in English. There is also a fantastic cinema on site (U-jazdowski Kino) plus a top notch restaurant and café. To continue on the Royal Route, check out the dedicated Łazienki Park (p.36)

and Wilanów Palace (p.40) sections.QI‑10, ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, www.u-jazdowski. pl. Open Tue, Wed 11:00-18:00; Thu, Fri 12:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 16/8zł to all exhibitions, for two exhibitions 12/6zł, for one exhibition 10/5zł, entrance to project room 5zł, students up to 26 years of age 1zł. Thu free. U

Further On From Ujazdowski Castle you are only minutes on foot from Łazienki Park (more on p.36).

From there Warsaw’s ‘Royal Route’ continues down ul. Belwederska (I‑13), ul. Sobieskiego (J‑15) and Aleja Wilanowska to ultimately end at Wilanów Palace - the 17th century private residence of King Jan III Sobieski (p.40). While a walking tour of the remaining 7km isn’t realistic, or especially rewarding, Łazienki and Wilanów are both required visits for getting a broader sense of Warsaw’s history and former glory as the grand capital of a vast and wealthy commonwealth stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea. To get to Wilanów, take bus 116 or 180 from the 'Plac Na Rozdrożu' stop and get off at ‘Wilanów’ 15 stops/22-25mins later.

35

Sightseeing | Łazienki Park

Ignacy

Łazienkowsk a

ZUC HA

Ch ocimska

Flory

GO

Bagatela Belweder Residence a now Klo

ska Kujaw

Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship

ka lec sie wo No

Jazdów

za Sulkiewic

Hołówki Iwicka

I

Sielecka

E

O UT

Regent Warsaw Hotel

Badowska Stępińska

owa Ląd

Parkowa

H

Kubicki Stables

The New Orangery

AL R R OY

wa Willo

Officer Cadets School Palace Myślewicki on the Island Palace 29 Listop ada

11

Kręta

W

A OW ER AC SP ybieg

czna Słone

utta Narb

imska Choc

G

na Rejta

A

iowa Wiśn

MOKOTÓW 36

a ewsk OlszReytan

WSK PU Ł A

ka ścińs Staro

ka wiec Rako

Szwo leżeró w

12

Egyptian Temple

Belwederski

10 300 m

Kawalerii

Old Guardhouse

Theatre on the Island

Temple of Sibyl Belvedere Palace Park Belwederski

ska der lwe Be

Skolimowska

RKA WO GO

13

White House & Orangery

Chopin

Plac Unii City Shopping

12Batorego

Łazienki Królewskie

AL .

S

lna Po

KIE ŃS RY WA

Zoli

150

Sobieski

The Old Orangery

UTE

Syrena

0

Park Agrykola

Agryk ola

Botanical Garden

owskie Al. Ujazd

Litewsk a

ROYAL RO

ska kow szał Mar

w ndró Olea

Former Gestapo HQ

Scale 1:16 000 1 cm = 160 m

Agrykola

Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art

K

Legia Warszawa Stadium

WSKA CZERNIAKO

kiego ijows Czerw

Politechnika

11

o kieg ows Ujazd pitala z S . l A Klonn

J

Suligo wskie go

Pl. Al. Wyzwolenia Zbawiciela

I

Drago nów

GO KIE YŃS Z C KA

Podc horą żych

H

Służewska

Natoli ńsk a

10

G

LATAWIEC

iecka Myśliw

WARYŃSK IEGO

The Palace on the Island (p.38). | © Paweł Czarnecki MDMcentrepiece of Łazienki Park - the Paderewski Ko sz yk ow a

aru n. Z Ge

Łazienki Park

J

GAGARINA

13

Podchorążych

K

Łazienki Park | Sightseeing Anyone who still thinks that Warsaw is a city of concrete and cement has clearly never been to the city’s lung, the incomparable Łazienki Park. Quite simply, this glorious, 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of the jewels in Poland’s crown, which might explain why half of Warsaw chooses to spend its summer Sundays here. Fear not though, for so big is Łazienki that it never gives the impression of being crowded, and even on the busiest of days you will always be able to find a quiet, shady corner somewhere.

go kie rus

The full/proper name of today’s park is ‘Łazienki Królewskie,’ which means ‘Royal Baths’ and is derived from the park’s centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace on the Island. The palace was originally built in the 17th century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski, owner of the adjacent Ujazdowski Castle and much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski in 1772 and converted into a private residence (thus taking the name Palace on the Island). It was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as a private garden, most of the landscaping being carried out to the designs of Karol Ludwig Agricola and Karol Schultz. Today dotted with many palaces (big and small), summer houses, pavilions, mansions, cafes, restaurants, lakes, a theatre and more, Łazienki offers much to see and to make the most of it you should plan to spend the better part of a day here.

Tickets & Info

go Mikke

ie Zw

rz yn iec ka

While the park is free to wander and enjoy, Łazienki’s cultural attractions and indoor exhibits require a ticket. To ensure that your pockets don’t fill with litter, there is now only one ticket, available at each site, which provides entry to all of the park’s paid sites, including the Palace on the Island, White House & Orangery, Myślewicki Palace, Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship, Officer Cadets School and the Water Tower. The details of that ticket are listed below and all of these sites also have the same opening hours. Note that the sole exception is the Botanical Garden, which has its own hours and requires a separate ticket.QJ‑11, ul. Agrykola 1, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28, www.lazienkikrolewskie.pl. Park open 05:00-22:00. Indoor attractions open 10:00-16:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Combined ticket for attractions, 40/20zł; kids under 7 free; students under 26, 4zł; Fri free. Audioguide 3zł.

Guided tours in English 160zł per groups of up to 10 people.

The Theatre on the Island

Photo: Waldemar Panów

Getting To & Around Łazienki Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three main entrances on ‘Al. Ujazdowskie’, including numbers 116, 222 and 503 from the Old Town/Nowy Świat. Bus 108 takes you from ‘Plac Trzech Krzyży’ to stop ‘Agrykola’ on the park’s eastern edge - bus 162 gets you to the same location but from the Praga disctrict at stop Dw. Wileński. From the city centre the easiest way of reaching Łazienki is to take trams 18 and 35 from ‘Centrum’ (or 4 and 10 from ‘Dw. Centralny’) to ‘Pl. Unii Lubelskiej,’ and walk 300 metres along ul. Bagatela to the park’s southern entrance, in front of the Belvedere Palace.

Accurate times and routes can be checked online at warszawa.jakdojade.pl.

Orientation around the park is relatively easy given the prominent placement of maps and signs - in Polish and English - in key locations.

There is also a very good Łazienki complex map (again, in Polish and English) which can be picked up for free from the Palace on the Island.

If you enter the park via any of the western entrances on Al. Ujazdowskie, chances are you will end up, willingly or not, via some surprisingly hilly paths set with tall trees, at the vast artificial lake in the park’s centre, straddled by the magnificent Palace on the Island. In doing so however, you risk missing out on a few treasures, such as the Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship, so try to circumnavigate the park instead.

37

Sightseeing | Łazienki Park Chopin Monument & Temple of Sibyl Sculpted by Wacław Szymanowski and unveiled in 1926, this iconic munment depicts Chopin sitting right here in Łazienki, next to a willow tree. The original sculpture was destroyed during WWII, and the one we admire today went up in 1958. Almost hidden in the trees a few metres from Chopin is the astonishing Temple of the Sibyl (closed to the public), an 1820s replica Greek Temple built entirely of wood. Look out too for a gaggle of other little buildings near here such as the Hermitage, the Egyptian Temple and the Water Tower.QI‑12.

Myślewicki Palace Chopin Monument

© Paweł Czarnecki

What to See Belvedere Palace The Belvedere Palace was the residence of Polish Presidents from 1918 to 1995 and then once again during the Presidency of Bronisław Komorowski from 2010-2015 (Presidents Aleksander Kwaśniewski, Lech Kaczyński and current president Andrzej Duda opted to live in the Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście (p.32)). Built in 1694 and thoroughly remodelled in 1818, the building is off-limits to visitors but an eyeful to behold. For the best views of the palace and some outstanding photo opportunities you should look at it from Al. Ujazdowskie: it is a wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns.

QH‑12, ul. Belwederska 56.

Botanical Garden Part of the University of Warsaw, the gardens have the usual collection of greenhouses with exotic, weird and wonderful species from all over the world, but what brings in the crowds during the summer are the stunning rose gardens just behind the main entrance. A riot of colour when in full bloom the gardens are the preferred subject matter of students from the nearby art college who set up their easels and paints early and stay until the guards kick them out at sunset. Indeed, given such lush scenery, it is tempting to find a bench and do the same. QH‑11, Al. Ujazdowskie 4, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 553 05 11, www.ogrod.uw.edu.pl. Open 10:00-20:00; from Sept open 10:00-18:00. Greenhouses open Fri, Sat & Sun only, in the same hours as the park. Admission 20/10zł (park and greenhouses), 12/6zł (park only). Y 38

When in Łazienki Park, make sure you have time for a guided tour of the magnificent, semi-circular and recently restored Myślewicki Palace. The tour lasts about 30 minutes. The palace was the official residence of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski, and is very much ‘as was’ - complete with original murals, furniture and art.QJ‑11.

Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship Very much as advertised, this museum will appeal to any avid horse enthusiast and/or hunter and is worth a quick visit. The museum is located in what are the former Cantonists’ Barracks built 1826–1828 and in the Kubicki Stables dating to 1825–1826. Truth is, you’re either going to love or hate this museum, depending on what your views are about animal care and cruelty. There are over 10,000 exhibit pieces, ranging from hunting arms and accessories to the stuffed animal trophies hunted in Poland, and an exhibition area about the history of horse breeding in the country.QJ‑12.

Myślewicki Palace

Łazienki Park | Sightseeing

Officer Cadets School In the eastern section of Łazienki near the Palace on the Island stands a large, classical building constructed in a horseshoe plan. Built by King Stanisław Poniatowski as a kitchen, the building was expanded in 1778 (it was deemed to small to serve the king’s need) and eventually morphed into the Infantry Officer Cadets School in 1822. On November 29th 1830, second lieutenant Piotr Wysocki led an uprising, aided by the young men of the school, which led to the November Uprising, a nationwide uprising at the time. Today, there’s little to see inside the building other than the ticket office to visit the park’s other attractions.QJ‑11.

by a striking central portico, while the southern façade’s deep central recess lies behind a screen of Corinthian columns. Today a museum, almost all of the palace can be visited including the main reception room, Solomon’s Hall, decorated in the most extravagant of Baroque styles with a series of paintings depicting the History of Solomon. They were executed for King Stanisław Augustus in 1791–93 by Marcello Bacciarelli and depicted the monarch himself as the biblical king.

Many of the king’s personal rooms are also open to the public, set in their original context.QI‑11.

Palace on the Island

The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison d’etre.

The palace - completed in 1683 to designs by Tylman Gamerski - was originally a bathhouse, converted into a residence in the late 1700s (after being bought by Stanisław August Poniatowski). The palace is built on an artificial island that divides the lake into two parts, and is connected to the surrounding park by two colonnaded bridges. The façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors and are crowned by a balustrade that bears statues of mythological figures. The northern façade is relieved Sculptures galore in Łazienki Park

© Stanisław Kłosin

39

Sightseeing | Wilanów

Wilanów

Wilanów Palace is as bright as the flowers in the gardens! | © Wojciech Holnicki

It's very easy to visit Warsaw and imagine its history stretches no further than WWII, when the city was effectively wiped from the map of Europe. But that would be to only understand a small part of this city’s history. The nation’s capital has been in Warsaw since the late 16th century and at one time was the centre of the vast Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, a union which lasted over 200 years, stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea (incorporating much of modern day Poland, Ukraine, Belarus and the Baltic States). With so much of pre-war Warsaw destroyed there are few places to experience what this must have been like more than at Wilanow’s palace and gardens.

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century palace which can be found in the Warsaw district of Wilanów, 10km south of the centre. Essential visiting for all who come to soak up the capital’s culture and wish to understand a little more about ancient Poland, Wilanów is more than just a palace – it represents an era from which much has been lost. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings (45-hectares) represent the height of Polish Baroque and is one of Poland’s greatest national treasures. If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend an entire and thoroughly rewarding day here.

40

Wilanów Park & Gardens The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park developed over the centuries according to the particular fancies of its owners. The park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s. Comprising a two-level Baroque garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscape park and the so-called EnglishChinese landscape park, recent revitalisation works and archaeological digs discovered several artefacts, including ceramics dating from the 12th century.QP2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16. Open 09:30-19:00.

Admission 7/4zł, Thu free but 0zł ticket still required.

Wilanów Park & Gardens

Photo by W. Holnicki

Wilanów | Sightseeing P

sa Hu

O

Getting to Wilanów

rii

Scale 1:16 000 1 cm = 160 m 0 Biedronki

100

Chinese Gazebo

SD Gallery

Orangery

A OW PRZ YCZÓŁK

ka za

1

St. Anne's

Potocki Mausoleum mc Kli

200 m

Wilanów Lake

Janczarów

a

iego o ck Pot

2

The Wilanów Palace Museum

2

Poster Museum go ckie Poto

3

3 arni Młoc

a tor

O

Vogla

P

ro pe

Eu

i datk Prze

ysz

Housed inside Wilanów Palace’s former indoor riding area, the Poster Museum features two large halls full of wonderful posters from all over the world. At almost 60,000 pieces, this is reportedly the largest poster collection to be found anywhere. The museum focuses on the artistic merits of the posters rather than their documentary value and plays host to a cycle of temporary events and exhibitions.QP-2, ul.

St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.postermuseum.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł, Tue free.

ick orn

AL. WIL ANO WS KA

G ie

Poster Museum

ZA IC

Next you’ll find yourself downstairs in the Wilanów Palace Residence, featuring residential rooms, suits of armour, Etruscan vases, magnificent frescoes and even a private chapel. Most impressive are the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife, while the wings house the apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace. Visit the Wilanów Palace website for info about current temporary exhibits and to buy tickets.QP‑2, ul.

St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow-palac.art.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Fri 14:00-20:00; closed Tue, Wed. Admission 35/25zł (includes Gardens), Thu free, but you must obtain an obligatory ticket. U

Ob

giacka Kole

Wilanów Palace Museum The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the palace’s interior, comes in two parts. The first is the upstairs Polish Portrait Gallery - comprising room after room of portraits of the rich and the powerful from the 16-19th century. If portraits are your thing you will find this very interesting, though the lack of descriptions is frustrating.

TN

1

IER W

Located about 10km south of the city centre, Wilanów is best reached by bus or taxi, though the latter costs 35-40zł and essentially takes the same amount of time: 25-35mins. All buses stop directly outside the palace gates at the ‘Wilanów’ stop. From Plac Zamkowy (F-4), Pl. Trzech Krzyży (H-8) or Łazienki Park (H-11) take buses 116 or 180. From Warszawa Centralna train station (E-8) take bus 519. For exact times and routes, check warszawa.jakdojade.pl.

jsk a

St. Anne’s Church A church has stood on this site since the 14th century, when the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here, followed by a wooden Gothic version in the 16th century that stood throughout Sobieski’s day. In 1772 the new brick Church of St. Anne was founded by Prince August Adam Czartoryski based on a design by Jan Kotelnicki. Czartoryski’s grand-daughter, Aleksandra Lubomirska Potocka, decorated the church with art in the period 1799-1831, the most precious of which is the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary in the main altar.

From 1857-1870, Aleksandra’s son August and his wife extended the church based on a Neo-Renaissance design by Henri Marconi, including adding the marvellous dome. In the surrounding gardens you will find terracotta shrines marking the fourteen Stations of the Cross, while the crypt houses the tombs of the Potocki family. The church suffered damage during both world wars and was even used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who looted and damaged it. The church bells dating from 1723 and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people who hid them; today they are housed in the newly built Third Millennium Tower.QO‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 18, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.pl. Open 08:00-17:00; Sat 08:00-12:00; Sun 13:00-17:00.

41

Sightseeing | Powiśle Walking Tour

Powiśle: Warsaw’s Riverside Hot Spot A former ticket office turned iconic bar - Warszawa Powiśle!. | Photo: Emilia Niedzwiedzka, unsplash

It might seem like quite a stretch to refer to any part of Warsaw as a hot spot, but the city’s riverside Powiśle district has been blipping on the radar for quite some time, however, in more recent years it’s gone through quite a rapid transformation which hasn’t gone unnoticed by eager travel writers searching for the next best urban gem! The Powiśle of today is a far cry from what it once was - a fairly mundane area nestled between the Royal Route and the Vistula River, full of apartment blocks, factories/warehouses and workshops (often dilapidated), avoided by locals as there was simply nothing interesting to see or do here that warranted rolling down the hill to explore.

Fast-forward to today and this is one of the most intriguing parts of Warsaw, containing some fantastic museums, the modernised riverside boulevards, a revamped power station (we’ll get to that later), photo-friendly uni gardens, an iconic train station bar (what?) unique shops, and of course, a gastro and social scene hotbed!

It’s time for an explanation for this mish-mash through a brief history lesson (don’t yawn, it’s worth it!). Warsaw University got the ball rolling by relocating its library to its current location on ul.

Dobra 56/66 in 1999 and subsequently adding the 42

now popular gardens (including rooftop garden with viewing platform) in 2002. The intelligentsia had officially moved in. But still Powiśle was still seen as an area of little interest, the most interesting point being the left-bank riverside boulevards, which were merely cracked concrete slabs covered in weeds, the remnants of a pre-war effort to build a promenade, and subsequently became a favourite haunt of local drunks. Oh, dear. But once city centre rents began sky rocketing, the vanquished found their new home here. Local artists, small cafe and restaurant owners, shop owners, even activists, looking for a near-thecentre area to relocate saw the potential in the leafy riverside district.

And so things plodded along for a while, the blips on the radar getting louder with some outstanding gastro venues and nightlife spots popping up; one of the most iconic bars in Warsaw opened here in 2009, the former ticket office of the still functioning train station Warszawa Powiśle - the distinctive modernist shape and its more than Spartan approach to drink/ food struck a chord with locals and its popularity continues to this day. And then exciting new plans to build the Copernicus Science Center were announced, resulting in an official opening in 2010.

ńska Świętoja

Bugaj

Powiśle Walking Tour | Sightseeing

Ols

Gro d

a Panieńsk

Royal This was followed by the opening of the new eastski zka Castle ąbrow ląsko-D west M2 Metro line in 2015, which plonked a stop in Most Ś Scale 1:15 000 the heart of the district next to the museum - Centrum 1 cm = 150 m Nauki Kopernik! All good and done, but arguably 0 100 200 m 1 Źródłow a Ma the biggest boost to the area’s accessibility was rien szta Chopin t the project to revamp the Vistulan Boulevards - the Point 1st section nearest the Old Town was completed in Bednarska 2015, with the Powiśle section opened in 2017. It was at this same time the Museum of Modern Art on the Vistula moved in to its new location on the river! Now the area was no longer a little known place to stumble a Karow into, but a unique destination in its own right, easily 2 Karowa accessible by metro, full of world class museums, and Warsaw University leisurely opportunities on the boulevards for walkers, Library cyclists, runners and families with kids. What more & Gardens Gęsta could be needed? A power station. Yup. 4 Wiślana 3

Warsaw Lipowa The district had enough energy to power University its popularity, but with all up-and-coming districts, Radna there is always the threat of gentrification, and Obo 5 Copernicus Leszczyńska źna plans were set in motion to revamp the former Science Centre power station Elektrownia Powiśle. The 100+ year 6 old building functioned right up until its closure rzyski Elektrownia więtok Bar Powiśle in 2001, lying in a sorry state until it was bought up Most Ś tosz ew 7 i by investor Tristan Capital Partners with a plan to ajęcza M2 Z turn it into a multifunctional centre with shops, Centrum Nauki Kopernik gastro points and event space, to name a O few. rdynaThe cka big opening occurred in May 2020 and is settling in nicely into the district’s unique atmosphere. Whereas the alternative Praga district across the river is a look mixed between 18th century buildings in the o ulik also slowly being gentrified, there are enough local Praga district while also incorporating a socialist Sm shops and initiatives in both districts to maintain a realist element. When it was unveiled in 1949, it truly local vibe, despite being coupled next to luxury became the first housing complex to be completed in apartments and investments. The hope is the cultural post-war Warsaw. Lying between ul. Bednarska and venues, the public spaces and unique gastro and ul. Dobra, the picturesque neighbourhood is full of nightlife venues will hopefully continue to provide an small parks and winding streets and provides a leafy organic atmosphere to the area. retreat from the crowds just a short distance away from the heart of the Old Town.

Powiśle Walking Tour In previous centuries, Mariensztat was notorious for its bordellos and bare-knuckle boxing matches, and its main square was once the home of a 1 Mariensztat bustling market in the area’s main square, which Cut off from the rest of the Old Town by the intersecting was enlarged to its current size in 1865. The area’s Trasa W-Z, the Mariensztat area, the northern-most role as a market is commemorated with a statue by part of Powiśle, has its origins in the 18th century Barbara Zbrożyna of a woman with a chicken and when nobleman Eustachy Potocki married Maria a basket selling goods, found on ul. Sowa 4. Today, Kątska and received the land as part of Maria’s dowry. although it looks a little sleepy, Mariensztat ranks as The area was built in 1762 and named after his wife, one of Warsaw’s most engaging districts, and the with the latter part of the name ‘stadt’ (changed to main square contains a water fountain, and in the ‘sztat’ after World War II) being added to appease the corner, a Sgraffito (wall decor) by Zofia CzarneckaSaxon king of Poland at the time, King Augustus III. Kowalska and Jan Sokołowski showing a colourful Completely destroyed during the Warsaw Uprising, clock. After your quick walk through Mariesztat, it was rebuilt after the war using a totally different head down to the riverside boulevards.QG‑4/5, ul. street plan; the architectural design aimed to evoke Mariensztat, MRatusz Arsenał.

Kozia

Sowia

Hoovera

ńska Furma

Wi

sła

ra Dob

Krakowskie Przedmieście

Dobra

zna tryc Elek

Cicha

cza

ec Sol

Okólnik

ego w ski

iel Top

Dynasy

ie owsk iuszk Kośc Wyb.

na atto w. P Bul

Browarna i Parkzowsk r imie Kaz

Sewerynów

43

Sightseeing | Powiśle Walking Tour

Stroll along the Vistula boulevards on the left-bank of the Vistula River. Photo: Alexey Topolyanskiy @ Unsplash.

2

Vistula Boulevards

Once you’re down by the river, you’ll notice that Warsaw sure has scrubbed up its riverside pretty nicely in the last few years. Here’s the unique part about Warsaw’s riverfront - the west side (the left bank) has concrete boulevards (Bulwary Wiślane) with bars and cafes dotted around in summer, while the right side of the river remains wild providing a unique contrast. Warsaw can now say its riverside boulevard is one of the best in Europe, if not the world; comparable to that of the Thames, the Seine and the Tiber (the then Mayor’s words!). Gradually completed in phases, first started at the turn of the 20 century, then enlarged in the late 1930s and 1970s, in 2013 a plan to modernise the boulevards was hatched, and the first section of the revamped boulevards was opened in 2015, followed by further extensions in Jun and Aug 2017, with the latest linking section reopened in Mar 2019. The new sections are filled with recreational spots. Walk along and enjoy the sights as you head south to the new few destinations, al bunched up fairly close together! First stop, it’s back to the library!QG‑3, Generała George’a Smitha Pattona, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik.

44

3

Museum of Modern Art on the Vistula

The first ‘white block’ building you’ll see o nthe boulevards. The Museum on the Vistula is an exhibition space, an addition to the Museum of Modern Art (Muzeum Sztuki Nowoczesnej - headquartered in the city centre on ul. Pańska 3) right on the river’s edge, which will house the majority of the museum’s exhibitions until the new headquarters is built. Opened to the public in March 2017, the building was designed

by Austrian architect Adolf Krischanitz, and between 2008-10, was used by the Berlin based Kunsthalle Art Gallery. Now, the building has been provided free of charge to MoMA by the Viennese Thyssen-Bornermisza Art Contemporary foundation. Very kind of them. Check out MoMA’s site for current/future exhibitions. Next stop, across the street to the watch tower...QH‑5, ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 40 10, www.artmuseum. pl. Open 12:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-20:00; Sun 11:0018:00; closed Mon. Admission 5/2zł, children under 7 enter free.

Powiśle Walking Tour | Sightseeing 4

Warsaw University Library & Gardens

Traditionally speaking rooftops are the preserve of chimney sweeps, burglars and Santa, but take a trip down to the Warsaw University Library building and that opinion will quickly change. Topping off the bizarre oxidised green building is one of Warsaw’s best-kept secrets; a two level rooftop garden filled with bridges, streams, pathways, sculptures and plant life that covers an entire hectare. There’s even a fishpond (yep, that’s probably a duck you’ve spotted doing laps) and a stone fountain mixed in among greenery like oak trees and Japanese spirea.

Designed by Irena Bajerska and opened back in 2002, the garden and viewing platforms afford panoramic views of lower Warsaw including the river, the Copernicus Science Centre and across the river to the PGE National Stadium in Praga.

A wonderful place to stop and rest in the heart of the city, take a picnic and sit amongst the groups of students taking time out from studying (ahem, napping) at the library below. Easily one of the best places in town to get on bended knee and ooze some serious schmooze should that be your wish.

Now skip over to the next building for some science based learning!QH‑5, ul. Dobra 56/66, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, www.buw.uw.edu.pl. Open 08:0020:00. Library open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00, Sun 15:0020:00. Admission free.

5

Copernicus Science Centre

A rare example of EU funding being used in a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is the very best science centre in Europe, and one of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions. Not only will you learn an awful lot, but you’ll have a blast doing so. The fun starts as soon as you encounter the museum’s very own ‘Robothespian’ - an interactive humanoid robot - at the front doors, before exploring over 400 hands-on exhibits across two floors that will have you actively pressing buttons, answering quizzes, and even exerting yourself physically. In addition to temporary exhibits and the all-ages ‘Experiment Zone,’ there are zones specially designed for the youngest visitors up to teens and adults. Take part in special workshops, check out the free rooftop garden, and don’t miss the Planetarium (separate opening hours and ticket required), which immerses visitors in 20 million stars, and screens films about natural science and the origins of life on earth.

Finishing up, as you head over to Elektrownia Powiśle - the capital’s new epicentre of cool - check out the former Nazi machine gun post (in good condition) on the corner of Wyb. Kościuszkowskie and ul. Leszczyńska.QI‑6, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl. Open 09:00-19:00. Admission Mon-Fri 31/21zł, Sat,Sun 33/22zł. U

Copernicus Science Centre on the waterfront. | © Adobe Stock

45

Sightseeing | Powiśle Walking Tour

6

Elektrownia Powiśle

When plans for the new Elektrownia Powiśle all-inone complex were announced a few years ago, we hoped this wouldn’t be another copy+paste effort.

When it finally opened in May 2020 after a COVID-19 delay, we can only say we were impressed. The exterior, as impressive as it looks, doesn’t look all too big, which is the first surprise you receive once you go inside - it’s much bigger than you’d ever expect!

So what’s here? Imagine this as a multifunctional centre, including sooped up shops completely new to Poland (nay, in Central and Eastern Europe even!) such as Urban Outfitters, Marc O’Polo Denim, Hugo and Converse (to name a few), plenty more boutiques, beauty salons, a top floor event space, as well as 14 ‘gastronomic concepts’ in their street food market and restaurants, and also 3 bars: Kandela, Centrala and Elektryk! You can shop until you drop, then pick yourself up with some great food, all the while being delighted with the look and feel of the place too.

It’s all fairly exciting stuff, but it’s time for a bit of a history lesson to allow you to appreciate the site’s past, and concept of the present and future! Ooh. Elektrownia Powiśle has been around since 1904, its original role being a power station. Things plodded along swimmingly until World War 2 when the station saw heavy fighting during the Warsaw 46

Uprising (p.54) between local insurgents and the Germans due to its strategic advantage. During the Communist era, the power station even had a special unit (which you can see today) that helped power the Palace of Culture and Science (p.23). And so this all lasted until 2001 when the power station was closed, laying empty for years before receiving its new lease of life...

What you can experience in Elektrownia Powiśle today has taken 4 years to come to fruition, with original power station elements visible throughout the modernisation. Anyone that loves old postindustrial sites will love the original architectural features on display, but that, of course, is not the sole reason to visit. Remember, the entire site is not yet complete, with luxury apartments and a boutique hotel still being constructed, but it’s quite clear Elektrownia has already become the epicentre of cool in the Powiśle district. We wholly recommend visiting and likewise keeping an eye on any upcoming events via their Facebook profile. Head back over to the boulevards and continue walking south until you pass under the nearby Świętokrzyski Bridge.QH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Open 10:0021:00. T­U­6­K­H

Powiśle Walking Tour | Sightseeing 7

‘Syrenka’ - Powiśle Warsaw Mermaid

Possibly the second most famous statue of the city’s symbol. The 2.75m tall bronze monument was created by sculptor Ludwika Nitschowa and unveiled June 29, 1939. Her model was a 23-year-old poet and ethnography student: Krystyna Krahelska, but allegedly Ludwika changed her face slightly as she didn’t want Krystyna to feel intimidated. Considering Warsaw’s wartime destruction, the monument itself was not destroyed, albeit it was slightly damaged, owing to its riverside location. You can choose to continue to walk to Łazienki Park or simply use public transport (metro or bus, p.20) to get back to the more familiar climes of the Royal Route (p.30) and city centre - alternatively, you can walk up ul. Tamka to get to the Fryderyk Chopin Museum (p.57) before getting back to the Royal Route. Along the way you can even spot street art murals and scars on buildings from the 1944 Uprising.QI‑6, Bulwar Bohdana Grzymały-Siedleckiego (near Most Świętokrzyski), MCentrum Nauki Kopernik.

Learn more about Syrenka, the symbol of Warsaw: iyp.me/71466f

Where to Eat and Drink?

Now this is where your taste buds will get excited.

If sightseeing venues don't tickle your fancy, then another good reason to head to the Powiśle district is for its reputation as a bit of a foodie central! There are tonnes of venues to choose from on, many of them to be found on and around ul.

Solec, one of the main streets in the area. Some of our favourites include The Cool Cat with its international menu, LAS dealing with a modern take on Polish cuisine, then there's Pastrami Bistro (guess what they specialise in?), cafes such as Kawiarnia Kafka, to bars with a wide range of craft beer options like Kufle i Kapsle and the rooftop restaurant/bar SEN with its awesome panoramic views of the river. Of course, there is also the iconic dive bar Warszawa Powiśle. Sticking to the riverside, there are numerous barges moored up, and street food trucks and weekend foor market make an appearance near the popular Plac Zabaw (actually a bar/restaurant/play area translated as ‘Play Park’). Elektrownia Powiśle has a unique ‘food hall’ lower level, resembling street food stalls, but also stand alone restaurants and bars. You’ll love them all.

Warsaw’s ‘Syrenka’. © Shutterstock

47

Sightseeing | Praga

ce

Łocho wska

Św .W in

Praga: Warsaw’s Alternative District

eg nt o

Te re sp ol sk a

Ch oda kow ska

Zajęc za

Lipowa Radna Leszczyńs ka

Ango rska

WAS Z

Nie kłań ska Saska

Nobla

SASKA Fran KĘPA cusk

sk a

Wisła

Bul. Flotylli W iślanej

O Park im.

Janiny Porazińskiej

zców

Jakub owsk a

Cz es ka

L ip er Herb ta

c

Pose lska K ato wicka rowiec ka

WAŁ MIEDZES

Pli (A szka pr f -Se er p) ry

POWIŚLE

Sole

Styk i

a

Zwyci ę

O GR

Mos t Pon iatow skieg o

Lull Hostel

Graniczna

Wal eczn ych

us ta

Mińsk a

ug

YNG TON A

naro dowa

Dą b

ąg kr

narska

K

za

Żupn ic cie

ck a

Okrzei

Za mo ś

Centrum Nauki

Al. Je rozo limsk ie

Ząbkow ska

Białost o

Kijowska

ys ki eg o

Poniatówka Beach

Ludna

Browarna

CH am O ionko W SK wska A

ńska

M2

ttona Kopernik en. Pa Bul. g skie Wyb. Kościuszkow

Dobra

National Stadium

ZCZEC I SKIE Ń

Copernicus Science Centre

BUW Library & Gardens

400 m Habe tina

Wilanowska

Śląsko-Dąbrowski Olszowa

Ratuszowa

ZAT YL NA Most Gda ński

.S

za

Wened ó w

WYB

200

ki

c Jara

S

PORT PRASKI

a

Stadion Narodowy ca Siw

OLD TOWN tara

o m

Tamka

Fountain Park Bugaj

Za

enie ck

la ko

WYB. GDAŃSKIE

STARA PRAGA

Ziel

Park Skaryszewski

So

Jagiellońska Łu PragA!partments ka siń ski eg o Park Sierakowskiego Praski o g Praga e ki c Hospital e L is i Panieńska

Praga District Beach ) r-Sep y (Ap rr fe Wilga

Rybak Multimedia i

Hetman

0

Międ zy

Bazar Różyckiego

1 WA TARGO

Scale 1:32 500 1 cm = 325 m

Kamionkowskie Błonia Elekcyjne

lsk a

Brzeska

Karowa

48

go

Marko wska

A

w

Hit

Lu be

Most Świętokrzyski

Wisła

Bul. Karsk ie

3

a K ępn

WYB. HEL SKIE

2

Warszawa Wileńska

CH Warszawa Wileńska

Skoczylasa

ZOO

archo mińs ka

Dworzec Wileński

JAGIELLOŃSKA

Kawęczy

Stalowa

"SOLIDARNOŚCI"

Kowieńska

Równa Wileńska

Mała

ka Inżyniers

Warszawa Wschodnia

PRAGA T

Be d

Sawinkowa

Brechta

Szanajcy

PRAGA-PÓŁNOC

4

D ą b ró

Darwina Linneusz a

Namysłowska

Środkowa

ada op wa st Li tuszo 11 Ra

STARZ YŃSKI EG

a ad

O

11 L isto p

ka ińs

SZWEDZKA

z ym

Szwedzka

d Ra

Biruty

Siedle

ck a

The hub of Praga life - ul. Ząbkowska (J/K-3). | Photo: Warsaw City Authority Jewish Cemetery

ZYŃSKI Saska Kępa Beach erry ka f p) Słon(Apr-Se

SO LEC

Park Śmigłego -Rydza

Praga | Sightseeing Gritty. Bo-ho. There are a lot of terms being tossed around to describe Praga, the eastern district of Warsaw that hugs the Vistula River. Once regarded as off-limits thanks to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks, today an urban revival makes Praga worth emphasising – especially if you’re interested in getting away from the well-trodden tourist paths of the Old Town and seeing the city’s artsy underbelly.

Praga is still years away from becoming hipstersoaked Brooklyn or boho Montmartre, but that’s exactly why now is the time for exploration, before gentrification engulfs the area. The current standard-bearer for cool, folks around here prefer their fun improvised and their bars dark (most of which can be found on or near the district’s main street, ul. Ząbkowska). Filled with murals and hip places to hang out, visitors can easily spend a day checking out the atmosphere and attractions of this alternative district across the river from the Old Town.

1

Praga Museum of Warsaw

Located in the heart of Praga this relatively small museum has stikes the right chord with its interesting and impressive permanent exhibition, which not only covers the complex history of Warsaw’s right bank settlement, but also captures the colourful district in several interactive multimedia exhibits.

We recommend exploring every corner of this great museum and it will inevitably encourage you to head out the door and explore Praga itself. For more info about events and upcoming exhibitions, log onto their website.QJ‑3, ul. Targowa 50/52, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 518 34 30, www. muzeumpragi.pl. Open 11:00-18:00, Thu, Sat 11:0020:00, closed Mon, Tue. Admission for both permanent and temporary exhibitions 12/8zł, permanent alone 10/7zł, temporary exhibitions 5/3zł. Thu free for permanent exhibition. U 2

Praga Koneser Center

Located in what was once the legendary Koneser Vodka Factory (1897-2007), this industrial site lay derelict for years before getting a major revamp.

Today the complex consists of 18 buildings over 5ha, which includes the Polish Vodka Museum, bars, restaurants, apartments, office and commercial spaces, and even the Warsaw HQ of Uncle Google (he knows everything!). The old brick buildings have been scrubbed up nicely, and mix well with the modern architecture. Well worth exploring.QK‑2, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, www.koneser.eu.

Open 11:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00.

Warsaw’s shining beacon the PGE National Stadium (K-6).

3

Polish Vodka Museum

Located in a former vodka factory, this multimedia museum is now the mainstay of the redeveloped Praga Koneser Centre. Visitied with a live tour guide or audio guide, the experience takes you from the origins of vodka to modern day production methods, showing you plenty of paraphernalia and treating you to a tasting of this strong spirit so deeply tied to Polish history. Polish tours begin on the hour and 20 mins after; English tours are 40 mins after the hour; French, German, Russian and Spanish tours are available by booking in advance. The final tours of the day begin at 19:00.QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 1, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 50, www. muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl. Open 12:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-21:00; closed Mon. Audio guides/standard tours 40zł. L­6 4

Neon Museum

Yet another old industrial space turned cultural hub is Soho Factory, the biggest draw of which is no doubt the illuminating (non-pun intended) Neon Museum.

The passionate curators of this private museum have collected hundreds of Communist-era neon signs, saving them from oblivion in the process. One of Warsaw’s most photogenic places. QM‑4, ul. Mińska 25, Soho Factory, Building 55, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 665 71 16 35, www.neonmuzeum.org. Open FriSun 12:00-18:00 only. Admission 15/12zł. U

Getting to Praga By far the easiest way to get to Praga is to take the M2 Metro to Dworzec Wileński (eastbound to ‘Trocka’), and you’ll be in the heart of the district. From Warszawa Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the river to the Park Praski stop. If you’re in the Old Town simply walk down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarności and the Stare Miasto stop, taking buses 160 and 190 or trams 13, 20, 23 and 26 to Park Praski. These same buses/trams will return you to Stare Miasto.QI‑3.

49

Sightseeing | Jewish Warsaw

Jewish Warsaw

It’s not by chance POLIN (p.51) was voted Museum of the year 2016 - it’s fantastic. | Photo: Warsaw City Authority

At the time Hitler chose to expand Germany’s territories under the odious excuse of providing ‘living space’ for the German people, Warsaw’s Jewish population numbered 350,000. Neither pogroms nor the occasional boycott of Jewish businesses deterred Jews from settling in the Polish capital and only New York could boast a larger community. Yet within six years Warsaw’s thriving Jewish scene was all but wiped out, with over 90% perishing either in the Warsaw Ghetto or the gas chambers of Treblinka extermination camp. It is estimated that some 15,000 Jews survived the war hiding out on the Aryan side.

Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare, Poland was seen as a relative safe haven, and it drew settlers forced into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war years the Jewish population had made significant contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland. Following World War 2, much of the remaining Jewish population chose to emigrate to the U.S., British mandate of Palestine (taking an active part in the creation of Israel) and other parts of the world. Some that remained would be forced out in the 1968 political crisis, the local community bearing the brunt of fallout in relations between Israel and the Soviet Union over the 1967 Six-Day War, and as a result of internal struggles amongst factions of the Polish 50

Communist Party. Today, Warsaw’s Jewish population is estimated to stand around 2,000, however, efforts have been put into honouring the city’s Jewish heritage and reintroducing Jewish culture - most notably the opening of the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews in 2014. Here we list some places connected to the current day community and places worth visiting.

Jewish Historical Institute A chilling recollection of Polish Jewry. This amazing building (which survived the war, but still bears the scars) houses exhibits relating to secular and religious Jewish life in the country from its beginnings to annihilation during WWII and beyond.

As well as an excellent bookshop, the institute’s museum, opened in 1948, features temporary exhibitions and a particularly moving permanent exhibition titled ‘What we were unable to shout out to the world’, dedicated to the underground archive of the Warsaw Ghetto and its creators, the Oneg Shabbat group. This is their record. A must see.QE‑5, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Tue 09:00-20:00; Fri 09:00-16:00; Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Sat. Admission 15/10zł. Mon free. ENG Guided tours cost 40zł (400zł for groups of 10+), PL 30zł (300zł for groups of 10+).

Jewish Warsaw | Sightseeing Nożyk Synagogue Built between 1898 and 1902 in a neo-Romanesque style, this was the only Warsaw synagogue to survive the ravages of war. It was fully restored between 1977 and 1983, and is still used by Warsaw’s Jewish community today. Normally, you can visit, however, due to the ongoing Coronavirus pandemic, the synagogue is currently closed to visitors (Thu-Sun services 13:15-13:45).QE‑7, ul. Twarda 6, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 620 43 24, www.warszawa.jewish.org.pl.

Admission 10zł. N

POLIN

Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery A beautiful and poignant place to visit. The cemetery was originally founded in 1806 and currently houses around 250,000 tombs. Amongst those buried here are Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto.QB‑5, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.cemetery.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:0017:00; Fri 10:00-15:00; closed Sat. Admission 10zł. N

Plac Grzybowski This delightful square connects the city’s past to its present and unites the worlds of commerce, religion, entertainment and art. The main attraction is the 19th century Renaissance All Saints’ Church. Heavily damaged during the start of WWII, from 1941 it was inside the Warsaw Ghetto. The Parish Priest Fr. Monsignor Marceli Godlewski helped to house Jews in the rectory and assisted several to escape. Joining the square is ul. Próżna, the only full street that survived the Jewish Ghetto. It remained derelict, however, in recent years, one side was restored to its pre-war splendour, while the second side awaits revival. It is here, that the former heart of the Jewish area of Warsaw undergoes a mini-revival in the form of the Singer Jewish Culture Festival, which has taken place every year in late August/early September since 2004.QE‑7, MŚwiętokrzyska.

A millennium of Polish Jewish history is explained in this excellent museum which opened in 2014 and won the prestigious award for European Museum of the Year in 2016! Located in the Muranów district, this is where the Warsaw Ghetto stood during World War II. The building is a stunning copper and glass structure designed by Finnish architect Rainer Mahlamäki. Each of the eight galleries addresses a different era in the long history of the Jewish people beginning in the forests of Poland of King Mieszko I (960-992), where legend has it the first Jews settled. The permanent exhibition goes on to chart periods where Jews enjoyed social and religious freedoms and protection not bestowed upon them elsewhere in Europe, to the calamitous events of the 20th century. While the period of the Holocaust is described very well, for the most part the museum’s permanent exhibition is a celebration of a thousand years of Jewish life in Poland.

The museum is also home to a canteenstyle restaurant (kosher dishes available), a café and a Resource Center that features a specialist library dedicated to the history, culture and religion of Polish Jews.

A TEMPORARY EXHIBITION, ‘WILHELM SASNAL: SUCH A LANDSCAPE’ (P.19), IS AVAILABLE UNTIL JANUARY 2021.QD‑4, ul.

Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:0020:00; closed Tue. Last entrance to the permanent exhibition is 1 hour before closing. Perm. exhibition: 30/20zł. Temp. exhibition: 20/15zł. 1zł for kids 7-16 and students up to 26 yrs with valid ID. Thu free. Audioguides 12zł. All tickets purchasable at www.bilety.polin.pl. U

Plac Grzybowski

51

Sightseeing | Jewish Warsaw

German troops on patrol in the ghetto as buildings burn. | National Archives and Records Administration

The Warsaw Ghetto Uprising Although efforts are in play to revujenate the Jewish community in Warsaw, it’s hard to avoid the subject of why it’s so tiny in comparins to its early 20th century figure. This becomes evident in Warsaw during April/May, during the anniversary of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising. Throughout the city, official commemorations are held, there are discussions in the media about the historical importance of the event, but most importantly, there are symbols of remembrance dotted around the city that citizens of the world visit and pay respect to the people that perished on the streets of Warsaw.

The Warsaw Ghetto Uprising of 1943, although inevitably destined to fail, has gone down in history as an act of defiance, an act of protest against the inaction of the world in helping the Jewish people in their plight during the Second World War. This was their time to fight. And so it was to be that from 19 April to 16 May 1943, following years of torment, the fighters of the Warsaw Ghetto rose up, vastly outmatched by the superior numbers and weaponry of the German war machine. The fighters had a simple choice: go quietly and die anyway, facing extermination in a camp, or die fighting, defying the barbaric system which had spread across Europe.

Numbering only around 700 fighters, the Germans were stunned on the first day of fighting, losing 12 men while the rest were forced to retreat beyond the walls of the ghetto.

52

The fighters continued their dogged resistance, and though the Germans quickly broke the military organisation of the Jewish fighters, pockets of resistance couldn’t be easily dealt with, so the Germans began to use heavy artillery and even Stuka dive bombers. It was a doomed struggle. Vicious street-tostreet, house-to-house battles ensued, with insurgents often burnt out of their boltholes by flamethrowers and gas. On 8 May, German forces surrounded the principal command post of the rebels on ul. Miła 18 (current day ul. Miła 2, D-3) and though some did escape, rather than face capture, leader Mordechai Anielewicz and his cabal opted for mass suicide. By 16 May the Uprising was over, with German commander Jurgen Stroop announcing, “The former Jewish quarter of Warsaw is no longer in existence.” As a final, symbolic act of Jewish Warsaw’s demise, the Germans blew up the Great Synagogue on ul. Tłomackie (E-5).

It is estimated 7,000 Jews and roughly 300 Germans were killed during the Ghetto Uprising. The survivors of the Ghetto liquidation, some 42,000, were transported to the Majdanek concentration camp near Lublin. Very little remains of the former ghetto today, however, to give you an idea of scale, the area consisted of 1/3 the size of the city of Warsaw (mainly the Mirów/Muranów and Wola districts, plus parts of the city centre). Despite the destruction, small parts of the ghetto remain, from buildings that somehow survived destruction (ul. Waliców 14 , D-7) and even fragments of the ghetto wall (ul. Sienna 55, D-8).

Jewish Warsaw | Sightseeing

What to See? A Footbridge of Memory

One of the most enduring images of the Warsaw Ghetto is that of the footbridge constructed over ul. Chłodna to connect the large and small Ghettos.

Commemorating this today is a pair of metal poles connected via optical fibres which, after the sun sets, project the shape of the footbridge over the road via light. Designed by Tomasz de Tusch-Lec and installed in 2011, the memorial also has viewing windows inside the poles where visitors can flip through images of life in the Warsaw Ghetto. By now you’ve also probably noticed the pavement outline that symbolises the ghetto’s borders, which can be found on the sidewalk as you tromp down ul.

Chłodna.QC‑6, Intersection of ul. Chłodna and ul. Żelazna, MRondo ONZ.

Miła18 Bunker

Photo: Adrian Grycuk

Ghetto Heroes Monument In the middle of a large, attractive square beside the POLIN Museum, you’ll find the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes, which commemorates the first Warsaw Ghetto Uprising of 1943. Designed by Leon Suzin and sculpted by Nathan Rapoport in 1948, close by stands an earlier memorial tablet to the Ghetto Heroes, also by Suzin, which was unveiled in 1946. Interestingly, stone used in the monument had been brought to Warsaw by the Nazis and was to be used in architectural projects planned for a new Warsaw by Hitler’s architect, Albert Speer. In the square, you’ll also find a statue of Jan Karski, a Polish resistance fighter famed for informing the allies about the existence of Nazi death camps and the systematic destruction of the Warsaw Ghetto.QD‑4, ul. Zamenhofa, MRatusz Arsenał.

‘The ghetto was here’ and covered 1/3 of the city.

The Mirów/Muranów district, parts of Wola and city centre.

Miła 18 Bunker A grass mound and monument now marks the spot from where the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising was lead by the Jewish Combat Organisation, and where many of its fighters, including commander-in-chief Mordechai Anielewicz, are buried. Three weeks after the start of the Uprising, the bunker was discovered by the Nazis on May 08, who used tear gas to try and force the command out. Though some were able to escape, the majority chose to ingest poison rather than surrender. Their bodies were never exhumed after 1945 and the site became a war memorial.

Located on the corner of ul. Miła 2 and ul. Dubois, due to post-war changes in Warsaw’s urban landscape the site no longer bears the address ‘Miła 18.’QD‑3, ul.

Miła 2, MDworzec Gdański.

Ghetto Heroes Monument

Read our full article and watch our video here: iyp.me/75002f

53

Sightseeing | Warsaw Uprising

Warsaw Uprising The Monument to the Warsaw Uprising depicts fighters preparing for battle.

August 1, 1944. Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist hegemony, rose up in rebellion in what would be the largest uprising in the German occupied territories. With German morale in ribbons, a retreat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army on the east bank of the Wisła, no time seemed better than the present. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime military movement a.k.a the Armia Krajowa or AK) launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an independent government. What ensued was an epic 63 day struggle during which the Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler.

17:00 - W-Hour On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski, 5pm signalled W-Hour (‘Wybuch’ standing for outbreak), the time when some 40,000 members of the Home Army would attack key German positions. Warsaw at the time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any numerical supremacy the Poles had was offset by a chronic lack of weapons. Nonetheless the element of surprise caught the Germans off guard, and in spite of heavy losses the Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the Old Town, Prudential Tower and the post office. The first day cost the lives of 2,000 Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag fluttered once more over the capital.

54

Within days German reinforcements poured in, and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. It was to prove a mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, cultural life thrived. Better still, the first allied airdrops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under the command of Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks.

Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on the insurgents' side was an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance. Airdrops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate. All hopes rested on the Russians.

After six weeks of inaction Red Army Marshal Rokossovsky finally gave the go-ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the river. The operation was a debacle, with heavy casualties and

Warsaw Uprising | Sightseeing no headway made. This single attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaw’s Old Town had become untenable, and a daring escape route was hatched through the sewers running under the city.

The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken with glee. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were forced to capitulate, some 63 days after they had taken on the Reich.

Warsaw Rising Museum

The Aftermath Having deposited their weaponry, 11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city. “No stone can remain standing,” warned Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings of importance to Polish culture were dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas were simply burned to the ground.

Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around $54bn. In human terms Poland lost much more.

With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very foundation a new post-war Poland could build on.

Monument to the Warsaw Uprising It was only with the regime close to collapse that this unconventional, not to say controversial monument was unveiled. Completed in 1989 and designed by Wincenty Kućma, it depicts a group of insurgents in battle, and another faction retreating into the sewers.

QE‑4, Pl. Krasińskich, MRatusz Arsenał.

The PW (Polska Walcząca / Poland is Fighting) resistance symbol.

Photo: Matt Fahrenholz.

Opened in 2004, this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with interactive displays, photographs, video footage and miscellaneous exhibits it’s a museum that’s guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram power station the 2,000m2 space is split over several levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of the Uprising (provided they don’t make any wrong turns, alas, a common mistake).

Start off by learning about life under Nazi rule, your tour accompanied by the background rattle of machine guns, dive bombers and a thumping heartbeat. Different halls focus on the many aspects of the Uprising; walk through a replica radio station, or a covert printing press.

The mezzanine level features film detailing the first month of battle, before which visitors get to clamber through a mock sewer. The final sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant display about the destruction of the city; take time to watch the black and white ‘before and after’ shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Nazis as punishment.

Near the exit check out the film “City of Ruins,” a silence-inducing 5 minute 3D aerial ‘film’ which took 2 years to make and used old pictures and new technology to recreate a picture of the desolation of ‘liberated’ Warsaw in March 1945.

There is also an exact replica of a B24 Allied plane once used to make supply drops over the besieged city. A viewing platform (open weather permitting) and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this high impact experience. FYI: There are new QR-code triggered videos for the hearing impaired at every exhibition.

Please note: opening hours subject to change.QB‑7, ul. Grzybowska 79, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 539 79 05, www.1944.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission 25/20zł (children under 7 free). Sun free. Audioguides in 27 languages 10zł p/person. U 55

Sightseeing | Museums

Museums

Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum in Warsaw (p.29) - birthplace of the two time Nobel prize winner!

Coronavirus in Warsaw: Latest Travel Info & Updates Closed by the government in October 2020, museums, galleries and cultural institutes were allowed to re-open at the end of May 2021, and the majority are now accepting visitors. Certain restrictions are in place regarding the flow and volume of people allowed (dependent on the size of the venue), in order to ensure public safety.

Hand sanitiser is provided outside almost all public places, and it is required that visitors use it before entering, social distancing of 1-2m must be maintained, and face coverings (masks) are a must indoors - security will not allow you entry unless you comply.

Warsaw has an impressive selection of museums, and even older establishments are getting facelifts to bring the visitor experience into the 21st century.

Without doubt the big four places on your list should be the Warsaw Uprising Museum (p.55), which charts the defining period in the history of modern Warsaw; the Copernicus Science Centre (p.45), which is the city’s most interactive and kid-friendly museum; the Chopin Museum (p.57), which is both interesting and another one of Warsaw’s best examples of a modern museum experience; and the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews (p.51), which highlights 1,000 years of Jewish history in Warsaw. Most of the museums listed below present a cycle of temporary exhibitions, details of which can be found in our Culture & Events section on page 16.

Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature See p. 28.

Copernicus Science Centre See p. 45.

I washed my hands after peeing before it became trendy

56

Museums | Sightseeing Fryderyk Chopin Museum Touted as one of the most high tech in Europe, this museum opened in 2010 to mark the 200th anniversary of Chopin’s birth. Over four floors of interactive exhibits, the entire life of Chopin is shown from start to finish, leaving absolutely no detail out.

So comprehensive is the collection it even features the last letter he wrote to his family and dried flowers from his deathbed. What really revolutionises this museum, however, is the way your route is conducted. Aside from an avalanche of touchscreen multimedia, the museum allows visitors to ‘adapt their trip to their particular circumstances.’ Put simply, those entering can choose exactly what they want to see.

Even better are the e-card tickets that can be swiped along different interactive exhibits to allow the visitor to hear music, stories or watch a film. Located in the Ostrogski Palace, the building itself is something of a Warsaw landmarkQH‑7, ul. Okólnik 1, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, www.muzeum.nifc. pl. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 23/14zł; Wed free. Guided tours available by prior arrangement (in English 120zł, Polish 100zł). U

Jewish Historical Institute See p. 50.

Katyń Museum

Found in the Warsaw Citadel, the museum documents the shocking events of 1940 when around 22,000 Polish officers were executed by their Soviet captors in the middle of a Russian forest.

The museum has a host of objects, documents and personal effects that have been recovered from the site near Smoleńsk, Russia. The artefacts from the victims and a scrolling list of the victims’ names needs no explanation and the multimedia presentation of the extenuating circumstances, the victims’ stories and historical relevancy are well thought out and it’s worth exploring the whole museum.QE‑1, ul. Jana Jeziorańskiego 4 (entrance from Nowomiejska gate), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 261 87 83 42, www. muzeumkatynskie.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission free. Guides available in EN/PL for 60zł.

Audioguides available in EN, PL, DE, FR & RU for 10zł. U

Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum in Warsaw See p. 29.

Museum of Life under Communism If walking around Warsaw’s city centre and admiring the remnants of Poland’s Communist past is not enough for you, why not check out the ‘Museum

PKO Rotunda In late 2019, an iconic landmark made its revitalised return to Warsaw’s city centre.

Originally designed by Jerzy Jakubowicz and opened in 1966, the iconic PKO Rotunda Bank Polski quickly earned the nickname “the General’s Cap” due to its specific ‘round and crowned’ shape.

Its central location also made it THE meeting point for people out on the town, on a date, or going shopping – every Varsovian knows the phrase “Let’s meet at the Rotunda.” Keeping the original exterior, the Rotunda rebuild has made the building into an attractive meeting place inside as well. With the fully modern bank offices now on the ground floor and -1 level, the upstairs has become a sleek 530m2 open space where anyone can drop in and watch urban life whizz past the panoramic windows, chat and chill with friends in the comfy seats, work on a laptop, and enjoy coffee and treats from the cafe. More than just a sexy makeover, the new building includes 17,000 plants inside and in the ‘living’ walls of the new amphitheatre-shaped patio, has earned ecological certificates for its innovative environmental solutions, and nabbed four awards in the 2020/21 European Property Awards. With this cult communist-era landmark fully modernised and back on the map, it’s time for a new generation of Varsovians to ‘meet at the Rotunda.’QF‑8, ul. Marszałkowska 100/102, MCentrum. of Life under Communism’ in the centre? Started privately in 2014, this is not simply a museum that recollects facts and figures, it’s a unique place that shows what everyday life was like for people during the years of Poland’s Communist rule - which includes a mock up of a typical PRL era living room!

An essential place to visit, especially for younger generations and those who have never lived under such a system! QM‑4, ul. Piękna 28/34 (corner of Plac Konstytucji and ul. Piękna), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 511 04 48 08, www.mzprl.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 12:00-20:00. Admission 20/14zł. Audioguides free on Thu in EN, FR, IT & ESP.

Museum of Warsaw See p. 28.

Museum of Modern Art on the Vistula See p. 44.

57

Sightseeing | Museums

Guided Tours City Sightseeing Warsaw If Warsaw needed proof that it is a major tourist destination surely City Sightseeing is it. 1.5 hourlong tours on familiar red double-decker buses let you take in the major sights. Buy one ticket and hop on/off the bus of your choice, either blue or red line. Buses depart from the Palace of Culture (p.23, Emilii Plater side) and the Old Town ‘Stare Miasto’ bus stop near King Sigismund’s Column (p.25). Commentary available in various languages. See their site for details, routes and timetables.QE‑8, ul. Emilii Plater, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 793 95 79 79, www.city-sightseeing.pl. Open 10:00-18:00. Tickets 24hrs 70zł, 48hrs 90zł, 72hrs 100zł. 7-day ticket for Warsaw available for 120zł.

Free Walkative! Tour The experienced locals at Walkative! provide some of the best tours at no cost to you (apart from tips!). Tours are offered in English and Spanish. Book online (new temporary COVID-19 reality!) for tours of The Old Town, Warsaw at War, Jewish Warsaw, Communist Warsaw and Alternative Warsaw.Qtel. (+48) 513 87 58 14, www.freewalkingtour.com.

Neon Museum See p. 49.

Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre See p. 28.

Palace on the Island

collection of 20th-century weaponry includes an array of tanks, missiles, aircraft and rocket launchers (open all year round).QH‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 52 71, www.muzeumwp.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission 20/10zł, Thu free. N

Praga Museum of Warsaw See p. 49.

Royal Castle See p. 25.

Warsaw National Museum Dating from 1862 and operating under its current name since 1916, there’s a huge array of exhibitions and antiquities. Visitors will find a wealth of 15thcentury Dutch and Flemish paintings as well as several Botticellis in the Gallery of Old Masters which also includes several galleries of Polish art from the 16th century onwards. This leads nicely on to the Gallery of 19th Century Art. The Gallery of Polish Design and Professor Kazimierz Michałowski Faras Gallery are the newest spaces to open.QH‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/10zł for the permanent gallery. Tue free. Children and students up to 26 years of age pay 1zł. Purchased tickets can be used twice within 7 days. U

Warsaw Rising Museum See p. 55.

Wilanów Palace Museum See p. 41.

See p. 39.

World of Illusion

POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews

Zachęta - National Gallery of Art

See p. 51.

Polish Army Museum The chronological history of the Polish army is presented in a series of gloomy rooms. Suits of armour, crossbows, muskets, medals and paintings pack this museum, thankfully with English-language explanations, although EN audioguides are also available. The room at the end is dedicated to Poland’s role in WWII, with specific emphasis on the Warsaw Uprising (p.54). Curiously, the best part of the museum is actually free of charge: the outdoor 58

See p. 28.

One of the leading galleries in Poland. It’s located just across from the Saxon Garden. The name of the gallery derives from the Polish word for encouragement and refers to the group that created it: Society for the Encouragement of Fine Arts (Towarzystwo Zachęty Sztuk Pięknych), created in 1860. The gallery does a fine job in bringing the best in contemporary art from the 20th and 21st centuries to you in a mix of exhibitions.QF‑6, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art.pl. Open 12:00-20:00. Admission 20/10zł, family ticket 25zł, students 2zł. Thu free. U

Museums | Sightseeing

59

Activities & Experiences

Activities & Experiences Let’s face it: It doesn’t all have to be museums and sightseeing. You may be travelling solo, as a couple or with the kids (p.62) - luckily, Warsaw is a big, modern city and has a lot to offer those looking for fun in all its leisurely forms! Hours of fun await!

Hulakula Leisure Centre A modern indoor entertainment centre for both adults/kids.

You can strut your stuff on 28 of their 10-pin bowling alleys or play billiards on 8 LEO Black King tables or enjoy classic arcade games, pinball machines and air hockey tables!

There is a soft-toy toddler zone and an indoor playground for older kids! An outdoor grill bar with music/DJ is available.QJ‑4, ul. Jagiellońska 82B, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 669 00 10 01, www.hulakula.com.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00.

Prices vary depending on day of the week and hour of day: 1hr of lane time costs 50-140zł. Billiards 29/39zł per hour. U

Powsin Cultural Park One of Warsaw’s most popular ‘get away from urbanity’ spots.

The list of attractions speaks volumes: swimming pools (open 10:00-20:00), sauna, tennis courts, gym (indoor/outdoor), summer houses, bowling alley, kids play areas, various sports pitches, pubs, restaurant and grill areas, a line park, and to top it off: mini-golf. The park itself is great for walks. To get there, take the M1 metro to the final stop ‘Kabaty’ and take bus 519 to stop Powsin-Park Kultury. Alternatively, take bus 519 from the city centre.Qul. Maślaków 1, MKabaty, tel. (+48) 22 648 48 11, www.parkpowsin.pl.

Thai Bali Spa Thai Bali Spa continue a 2000 year old tradition using Thai and Balinese massage techniques. The skilled masseurs will have you feeling fresh and rejuvenated in no time!

Choose from various massages including elements of yoga, stretching, acupressure, Japanese Shiatsu massage and reflexotherapy. Various oils and soothing body cocktails will leave you feeling recharged. Other city locations include ul.

Grzybowska 3, ul. Warszawska 8 and ul. Powązkowska 9.QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 48, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 663 55 11 22, www.thaibalispa.pl. Open 12:00-21:00.

60

Activities & Experiences

MK Bowling Entertainment Center The latest entertainment center in town, found inside Galeria Młociny in the northern district of Bielany, 2 mins away from the final stop of the M1 metro line ‘Metro Młociny’.

Choose from 12 bowling lanes (6 ppl/lane) and 3 pool tables (COVID-19 limits are in place); all serviced with a bar that dishes out Neapolitan-style pizza. Bowling (59-139zł), Pool (20-35zł) and VR starts at 25zł/15min. Qul. Zgrupowania AK Kampinos 15 (Galeria Młociny, lvl 2), MMłociny, tel. (+48) 600 80 05 56, www.mkbowling.pl/start-warszawa. Open 12:0022:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00.

World of Illusion An altogether different museum in the Old Town Market Square (p.27), the World of Illusion is precisely that - a visually exciting and educational experience. Enter the Matrix, a mirror room, a vortex, the room of shadows - it all sounds out-of-this world, and in a sense, it is! There are some class photo opportunities inside, and a special educational exhibition to learn how the mind can easily be tricked by the eye (26/21zł per person).QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 21, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 501 80 80 06, www.swiatiluzji.pl.

Open 12:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00. Admission 33/24zł. 6

Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki Of all Polish gifts, none are as visually exciting as Bolesławiec pottery. At Pomaluj.art you not only get the chance to buy gifts, but can join workshops to make your own! You can make and paint anything you want in the studio! The staff speak English and teach you the history of Bolesławiec pottery during your session! Showing the Warsaw In Your Pocket guide/map, you will receive an in store 8% discount!QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 80 01 84, www.pomaluj.art. Open 12:00-20:00; closed Sun. 61

Kids & Families

Kids & Families All kids just want to play, even young tigers in Warsaw Zoo (p.63)! | Photo: Warsaw City Authority.

Warsaw has a tonne of sightseeing, but not all places are suited for youngsters. You can only expect them to be quiet and respectful in museums for so long. There must be something else to do in this town, right? Yup! The first step to having a great family vacation abroad is to accept that what you want to do, and what your kids want to do are hardly one and the same. That said, there’s no reason you can’t find common ground in Warsaw’s major attractions.

Helpful Hints & Ideas The perfect choice is to go to the Copernicus Science Centre (p.45), which will not only keep the kids entertained with the games and interactive nature of the museum, but the adults with also have a whale of a time too. The Warsaw Rising Museum (p.55) is super-modern and highly interactive, with kid specific educational zones. The Dollhouse Museum (p.63) is a charming experience showcasing over 120 historical dollhouses.

Multikino in Złote Tarasy (E-8) and Cinema City Arkadia (C-2) are good options to see the latest kids’ movies on a rainy day. If more action packed indoor attractions are your thing, Warsaw also has Hangar 646 for trampolining madness. Hulakula Leisure Centre (p.60) not only has bowling, but an indoor playground 62

for the kids to run wild! MK Bowling Entertainment Centre (p.61) is a great venue for adults and families.

IF that’s not enough, Pomaluj.art (p.61) is immensely fun with ceramic painting workshops! For something completely different, check out the World of Illusion (p.61), essentially an educational museum but also great for selfie pics!

Sometimes the best thing to do is simply take a charming walk along the Royal Route (p.30) and onward to the Old Town (p.24), where in the warmer months, the area has a family atmosphere. Other outdoor leisure activities could include a visit to Łazienki Park (p.36) with plenty of cute squirrels, peacocks and ducks around! For more animals, check out Warsaw Zoo (p.63)! Don’t forget that Warsaw has plenty of parks to choose from, all with play areas for the kids to jump, swing, duck and roll, with all the central ones marked on our maps at the back. The Vistula Boulevards (p.44) are great for those wishing to walk, bike, skate or play in specially installed play areas for the kids. For general cycling, we highly recommend using the Veturilo city bike hire service (stations marked on our maps, available Apr-Npv), with plenty of cycle lanes across Warsaw to ride safely.

If you have hyperactive kids, then going to any of Warsaw’s swimming pools, such as Powsin Cultural Park (p.60), all with their own child-friendly play areas, are perfect anytime of year.

Kids & Families Museum of Dollhouses, Games and Toys For anyone with irrational fears of dolls, breathe calmly, and don’t worry, this is not the house of horrors you may be imagining. This is a charming experience showcasing over 150 historical dollhouses, and various other settings, with unique detail borne from a passion centred around mankind’s oldest toy.

Visit the museum and experience two permanents exhibitions ‘The Bygone World of Dollhouses’ and ‘Religious Toys’, both of which not only show handcrafted pieces, but how tastes and fashions have changed throughout human history. The museum bills itself as an exciting experience for all to enjoy, especially kids from ages 5-105 (you read that right). Interestingly, those below 100cm and above the age of 100 get in for free! Group tours are available in English, Polish and Russian, costing 90zł, however, you must call in advance to arrange.QF‑4, ul. Krzywe Koło 2/4, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 517 49 00 47, www.muzeumdomkow.pl. Open 11:00-19:00. Tickets 12/9zł. Group tours available in English, Polish and Russian (Polish groups up to 10 people = 55zł, over 10 people = 83zł. English/Russian groups up to 10 people = 110zł, over 10 people = 166zł).

1944 Uprising (p.54), he helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo.QH‑3, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Open 09:0017:00. From November open 09:00-16:00. Admission 30/20zł.

Fun Park Digiloo Situated not far from the city centre on the otherwise never ending ul. Puławska, Digiloo is a vast kid’s paradise of themed activity rooms. Areas vary from a toddler space for the under two’s through to the main, jungle-inspired activity area, a modern climbing wall and a ‘laser paintball’ zone for budding young snipers!

Seven themed birthday rooms are also available for private hire. You may ask what the grown ups can do while the nippers are running riot under the watchful eye of the expert assistants? They can take-five in the prize-winning café/restaurant with its home-style menu.QH‑16, ul. Merliniego 2, MWierzbno, tel. (+48) 508 80 00 29, www.funparkdigiloo.pl. Open 10:0020:00; Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-20:00.

Climbing wall OH: Weekdays 08:00-22:30; Sat, Sun 09:00-21:00. Mon-Thu: 19zł/h, 33zł/2h, no limit 39zł Fri-Sun: 25zł/h, 39zł/2h, no limit 49zł Parents, Kids up to 1-year old and Kids with Disabilities - FREE entry.

Warsaw Zoo Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors each year. In total there are 12,700 animals here, across 500 species. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent years, though a visit here will do little to change any opinions you have on locking animals in cages. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during the Pools and slides - hours of fun!

Warszawianka Water Park The best pool of the lot with saunas, steam rooms, snow cabins, solariums as well as loads of slides and other recreational facilities, including a playground for the kids. Prices range from 69-95zł/52-71zł all day, 23-38zł/18-30zł per hour and 39-62zł/30-47zł for 2.5 hours (yes, the pricing is weird). Happy Hours are on offer with a fixed price Mon-Fri 17.50/9.50zł per hour from 09:00-15:00.QH‑16, ul. Merliniego 4 (Mokotów), MWierzbno, tel. (+48) 22 854 01 30, www.wodnypark. com.pl. Open 06:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 06:30-22:00. (Spa open 11:00-22:00. Admission 46-82/36-63zł).

Let the kids tire themselves out!

63

Day Trips from Warsaw

A Typical villa in Konstancin-Jeziorna. | Photo: UM Konstancin-Jeziorna

Day Trips There’s plenty to see and do in Warsaw, however, we understand that not all visitors are content with just visiting the capital and may wish to explore beyond the city limits. There’s something for everyone across the whole Mazovian region, and this section highlights some of the most interesting things to see and do, from visiting sites full of history, music, relaxation, and outdoor activities for those looking for something more fun-filled and leisurely!

64

Day Trips from Warsaw Fryderyk Chopin Birthplace & Park in Żelazowa Wola This museum celebrates both the Historical Birthplace of the lauded composer and pays tribute to the dramatic history of the very museum itself.

Half of the house has been filled with early 19th century keepsakes, instruments and paintings, and many visitors attest to the haunting spirit of Chopin that lingers throughout. Outside the impressively landscaped bucolic garden makes for a nice walk. As you walk around the gardens, there are craftily hidden speakers serenading you with Chopin’s music. Żelazowa Wola is 54km west of Warsaw and can be reached in one hour by bus and train. The best way to get there is to go with a tour group or get a Koleje Mazowieckie train (R3) from Warszawa Śródmieście train station to Sochaczew or a TLK train from Warszawa Zachodnia Train Station - once there, get ZKM bus no.6Z which goes to Żelazowa Wola (bus no.1 to Kampinos also stops there).QŻelazowa Wola 15, tel. (+48) 468 63 33 00, www.muzeum.nifc.pl. Open 10:00-20:00. Museum closed Mon (park open). Admission 23/14zł for the museum and park, 7/4zł for the park only. Wed free.

are an attraction in themselves, with the majority on ul. Sienkiewicza, some in perfect condition, while others are in various states of decay. Most visitors head straight to Park Zdrojowy (En: ‘Health Resort Park’), the heart and symbol of the spa resort.

The main attraction is definitely the salt graduation tower built in 1976! To get there from the city centre, take bus 200 from stop Dw. Centralny 05 (Warsaw Central Railway Station) which takes you directly to the entrance of Park Zdrojowy (bus stop with the same name). Alternatively, take the M1 metro line to the end station Kabaty, and from there switch to bus 710, travelling to the same stop. Both journeys will take 50 mins and require zone 2 tickets.QMKabaty, www.konstancinjeziorna.pl.

Kampinos National Park

Immediately North West of Warsaw (just 20km from the centre, heading to the towns Łomianki or Truskaw), Kampinos is the most accessible of Poland’s national parks. The entire area covers 385km2, which is interspersed with dense woodland, dunes and marshland, criss-crossed with biking, hiking and horse-riding trails. Equally famous for its association with the battle for Polish independence, Kampinos’ proximity to the capital has made it a favourite camp for partisans throughout history; today numerous mass graves dating from national uprisings in 1863, and insurgent graves from the Home Army’s ‘Kampinos’ group (in Wiersze village war cemetery) who took part in the Warsaw Uprising of 1944. None are more somber than the huge Palmiry National Memorial & Museum - a site of mass execution of civilians and intelligentsia during World War II.Qwww.kampinoski-pn.gov.pl.

Konstancin-Jeziorna Ahhh, spa towns, often found far from urbanity - not in this case. Located just south of Warsaw’s Ursynów district in Piaseczno county (a mere 20km from Warsaw’s centre) it's an ideal day out. The beginnings of Konstancin go back to 1897 when it was a summer resort. The town became a destination not only for relaxation, but a prime location to live, with numerous villas springing up. Today, they

This one time capital of Poland is worthy of a day trip!

Płock This trip can be completed in one day. Hugging the Vistula River 111km north-west of Warsaw is the city of Płock, administrative capital of Płock County in the Masovian Voivodeship. Believe it or not, Płock was also the one-time capital of Poland from 1079 to 1138 and the seat of Kings! The area’s importance grew with the first Pagan Slavic tribes, and later with the Piast Dynasty, which built a fortification on Wzgórze Tumskie (En: Tumskie Hill), overlooking the river. It’s around this hill where you’ll find most attractions, from the Płock Cathedral (Cathedral of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Masovia) and The Castle of the Masovian Dukes in Płock, the boulevards, pier, zoo and beach below, all not far from the charming Old Town Square (Stary Rynek), surrounded by numerous museums. To get there, you will need to take a bus from Warsaw West Main Bus Station, from where you can take a public PKS bus to Płock (journey time 1hr 45mins). We recommend you check the fantastic e-podróżnik.pl site for all bus times to be able to plan your journey in confidence.

Qwww.plock.eu.

65

Coffee & Sweets

Breakfast & Brunch It’s arguably the most important meal of the day, though not everyone wakes up with the rising of the sun. Below we have a selection of Breakfast and Brunch options, for you party people and late-risers.

News just in: all day breakfasts are finally a thing in Warsaw!

Bułkę przez Bibułkę A great little place that makes you feel like you’re in a smalltown setting as opposed to a busy street in Warsaw! It’s important to highlight they serve all-day-breakfasts, from bagels to soups and sandwiches, and a Cappuccino or Americano on the side only costs an extra 5zł. Furthermore, 0.5l wine is 16zł from 18:00-21:00 daily, and Prosecco 5zł!

Also on ul. Zwycięzców 32 in Saska Kępa, ul. Puławska 24 in the Mokotów district and Żurawia 6/12.QG‑8, ul. Zgoda 3, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 28 55 22, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl.

Open 07:30-23:00; Sat 08:00-23:00; Sun 08:00-22:00. T­6

Ciao Napoli As if the daytime menu of Italian food wasn’t good enough, Ciao Napoli (p.75) also does breakfasts (09:00-11:00 until the end of August), and lunch specials of soup, entree and water are available Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 for 27zł. Filling yet light, the lunch choices are spot on. Considering the location in tourism central, overall we’d say the experience is pretty damn good! 2nd location ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8.QF‑4, ul. Długa 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 666 32 27 33, www. ciaonapoli.pl. Open 09:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-23:00. 1 hour break between 11:00-12:00. T­B­6

PKO Rotunda Cafe Warsaw’s iconic city-centre PKO Rotunda (p.57) returned in 2019, not just as a bank, but with a whopping 530m2 upper floor open space, including the Rotunda Cafe. Impressive with its award-winning design and ecological aspirations, drop-in for bagels and coffee, salads and Rotunda-shaped cheesecakes! This landmark has always been a meeting place for Varsovians, and now you can chill out here, talk business, use free WIFI, or just stare at the backdrop of Warsaw! With almost 60 seats, there’s plenty of space!QF‑8, ul. Marszałkowska 100/102, MCentrum. Open 10:00-21:00. U 66

Coffee & Sweets

© Artem Beliaikin on unsplash

To Lubię Divine. Coffee, cakes, pies, all-day breakfast, coffee and apple crumble at 15zł a slice (not necessarily in that order).

Opposite the church on a street that is best known as being tourist-trap central, this is the kind of place you can get all twee and a little bit ‘Cracovian’ for a moment. Head through the little stone-arch doorway and make your order. The Old/New Town should be full of places like is. ‘I like this’ is how the name translates into English and yes, we really do!

QF‑3, ul. Freta 8, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 90 23, www.tolubie.pl. Open 09:00-22:00. €. ­6

Charlotte. Chleb i Wino Enjoy croissants with jam or traditional egg dishes anytime since trendy Charlotte slings all day breakfast. All ingredients are sourced locally, and vary depeneding on the season. Their chocolates and jams are made with home recipes, giving that extra dose of niceness. Also found at ul. Próżna 7, Nowy Świat 6/12 and ul. Kieślowskiego 7.QG‑10, Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (entrance from Pl. Zbawiciela), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 662 20 45 55, www.bistrocharlotte.pl. Open 07:00-24:00; Fri 07:0001:00; Sat 08:00-01:00; Sun 08:00-24:00. From Nov open 07:0024:00; Fri 07:00-01:00; Sat 08:00-01:00; Sun 08:00-22:00. T­6

The Cool Cat One of our favourite spots in Warsaw. A quick glance at the menu will take your taste buds on a tour through some truly original Asian-influenced breakfasts, lunches and dinners.

Start with Israeli Shakshuka then graduate to a Korean pork bun served with jackfruit, chicken, tofu and crab. Their coffee and alcohol selection mean that you can quite easily find an excuse to hang out here eating and drinking all day and night (guilty as charged). Also on ul. Marszałkowska 8.QI‑7, ul. Solec 38, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 574 81 18 16. Open 09:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-23:00. €€. T­­6 67

Restaurants | New & Featured

The seasonal menu at Klonn (p.71) matches the charming scenery

Dining in Warsaw Warsaw’s come a long way fast, and nowhere is the urban vibrancy more apparent than in the city’s progressive culinary scene. Today one can find quality dining experiences from most corners of the world, though the predominance of Italian trattorias, sushi bars and designer burger joints never ceases to amaze us. As regards to tipping, 10% is standard (easy math!).

68

New & Featured | Restaurants

Guru Restaurant & Bar utensils Indian Guru was borne out of the owners’ long dream to open an Indian restaurant. We’re lucky they got their wish, as they are redefining Indian cuisine with a flair for modernity. And what better location than Warsaw - a city that has been transforming at lightning pace, the redevelopment visible on the very street where Guru is located, ul. Widok, right next to Metro Centrum (as central as it gets!).

Perfect for both casual dining and business meals, the interior is a mix of traditional and modern, as is the menu with its classics (with a real Tandoori oven!), all the way to the drinks menus.

Lunches served Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00 (27/21zł).

Recommended.

QG‑8, ul. Widok 8, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 857 06 04, www.gururestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:0023:00. €€. T­B­6

Nobu Restaurant utensils Japanese Found inside the stylish Nobu Hotel Warsaw, the Nobu Restaurant is a major part of the overall Nobu experience, a place where a mix of tastes and emotions become one. The 125-seat restaurant is a perfect place for breakfast, family meals and business refreshments, and no wonder, with the world-famous Japanese cuisine of chef Nobu Matsuhisa on the menu (chef Yannick Lohou is at the helm in Warsaw) offering signature dishes such as Yellow Tail with Jalapeno and Black Cod with Miso, Toto tartar with caviar, Beef Toban Yaki along with exclusive sakes and creative cocktails. The café offers classic Polish pastries, but also sandwiches, salads, and freshly brewed coffees and teas.

QF‑10, ul. Wilcza 73, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 551 88 00, www.warsaw.nobuhotels.com/dining. Open 18:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-23:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€.

T­U­B­E­6

69

Restaurants | Fine Dining

Fine dining U Fukiera (p.73) a Magda Gessler restaurant.

AleGloria If you want to splash out on some of Warsaw’s finest cuisine, we definitely have you covered testing the food for you was a joy! Whether you need a venue to have a business meal to impress that client or if you’re trying to impress your other half with a venue that ticks all the right boxes, the following pages will keep you right. While our rigorously researched opening hours would seem self-explanatory, be aware that venues will close their doors if business is slow, and some ‘restobars’ employ different sets of hours for bar and kitchen - the times we list in such cases are for the kitchen.

utensils Polish Magnificent, enjoyably over-the-top restaurant in the finest part of Warsaw where the strawberry-themed decor appears amazingly at home and where the modern Polish cuisine - often featuring strawberries and goose specialities - will leave you determined to come back for more. It is rare that a restaurant can so seamlessly present the pure pleasure and simplicity of Polish cuisine while at the same time elevating it to world-class gourmet standards. Wow!QH‑9, Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 584 70 80, www.alegloria.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00; closed Mon. €€€€. T­U

Symbol & Price Key

70

6 Animal friendly

C‑1 Map Coordinate

T Child-friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside Seating

X Smoking room available

€ €€ €€€ €€€€ €€€€€

most mains under 25zł most mains 25-45zł most mains 45-75zł most mains 75-115zł most mains over 115zł

Fine Dining | Restaurants Belvedere utensils Polish Nestled inside Łazienki Park, Belvedere is a romantic orangery filled with foliage and a smattering of well-dressed tables both inside and out. Having undergone a head to toe renovation, the Belvedere is a stunningly dramatic venue with peacocks wandering the grounds and multiple waiters offering first class service. The food lives up to the atmosphere.

Your options include French or Italian picnic baskets for two people for 249zł and a Sunday brunch option 12:00-16:30 for 249zł (kids menu also available) all set to occasional live chillout music. Few places in Warsaw are this classy or this expensive, and dare we say women are right to assume a booking here means something big is in order.QI‑12, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in Łazienki Park, entrance from ul.

Parkowa), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 606 10 20 02, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:0017:00. €€€€. T­B­E

Der Elefant utensils International Opened back in 1990, this long-running establishment is spread over various rooms and floors, with a choice of dining experiences. From the street you’ll find their diner-style seafood bar with plenty of fresh fish; alternatively, enter through the courtyard to find a mock shop inside which you’ll see the chefs racing to fill the rapid flow of orders.

The concise but diverse single-card menu offers a choice of hot and cold starters (including the recommended Alaskan Crab’s legs), burgers and steaks, the aforementioned fresh fish and some salad and pasta options. They also have a lunch offer, Mon-Fri: a soup, main and dessert for 28zł (26zł without the soup). An attractive layout and prices lower than you would expect considering the location make Der Elefant insanely popular.QE‑5, Pl. Bankowy 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 890 00 10, www.derelefant.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. T­U­B­E

Elixir by Dom Wódki utensils Polish When we first heard of Elixir we instinctively thought, surely someone has already thought of this? Unbelievably, nobody had - so, top marks to the masterminds behind this classy establishment.

At their Vodka Atelier you can try over 600 vodkas from around Poland and the globe; the range goes from PRL era classics to Polish ‘small batch’ distillers, designer vodkas, flavoured vodkas and culminates in the staggeringly priced “Młody Ziemniak 2017

volare” (25ml for 50zł). The restaurant itself features stunningly presented, contemporary takes on Polish classics with a “food pairing” system which recommends specific vodkas to complement the ingredients and flavours of each dish. An Absolut (pardon the pun!) top-spot and a truly unique venue on Warsaw’s culinary map.QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 11, www.domwodki.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. T­B

Klonn

NEW

utensils International This is one of these places we just love for the concept - a place where nature, food and culture meet. Try some daytime lounging, eating and drinking, and well, do almost the same at night, but with music, events, and more alcohol. Found along the Royal Route at the northern corner of Łazienki Park, the location is pretty chilled - heck, there’s a 200-yearold oak tree round back that can attest to that. The menu is mixed with seasonal regional dishes with the chef’s own touches, all of which we enjoyed. The daytime is pretty much for everyone here, families enjoying the garden, but at nighttime, this place turns the volume up on their sound system, and its equally atmospheric setting makes an impact at night, indoors and outdoors. Every Fri & Sat they have live music to take things up a notch. Check it out for yourself. Recommended.QH‑11, ul. Jazdów 1B, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 100 63 63, www.klonn.pl.

Open 13:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00; closed Mon, Tue. €€€. T­B­E­6

L’Arc Varsovie utensils Seafood Upscale dining options are on the rise in Warsaw, and L’Arc Varsovie brings its A game with offerings of fresh seafood and French staples like chicken roulade. Lobster is their claim to fame, and it’s easy to start your meal with the rich cream of lobster soup if you (and your wallet) aren’t prepared to go all in on a full tail. Alternatively, try out their Mon-Fri lunch option (12:00-16:00) consisting of fish soup and main dish for just 29zł (we’d say that’s a bargain, considering its focus on seafood).

The black and white interior suggests a smart French brasserie, bringing a little piece of Paris to Warsaw, and the service is in the running for one of the most attentive we’ve experienced on Polish soil. One of the best places in town for seafood. Recommended.QH‑13, ul. Puławska 16, MPole Mokotowskie, tel. (+48) 519 00 00 50, www.larc.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€€. P­T­U­E­6 71

Restaurants | Fine Dining Restauracja Różana utensils Polish

Nobu (p.69) - Rock Shrimp Creamy Spicy - Steven Freeman

Lobster House utensils Seafood The choice of seafood venues in Warsaw (and good quality seafood in Poland as a whole, for that matter) has steadily been increasing over the last decade or so, however, it still has a reputation as being exclusive and pricey (sometimes unwarranted)! With the opening of The Lobster House, you could say the zenith is upon us! Set inside a landmark building ([the] ‘house without corners’) along the Royal Route (p.30), the location alone suggests a top quality venue. And it is. Inside you will find a sleek space spanning 451m2 (which comes in handy when you have 7 aquariums housing your food!), and able to host 120 people (plus more outside during summer), along with an impressive 10-metre-long bar. The food is as fresh as it possibly can be, and just delightful. This is definitely The Lobster House. QG‑6, ul. Królewska 2, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 731 00 08 47, www.lobsterhouse.pl.

Open 11:00-23:00. €€€€€. T­U­6

PAM PAM Restaurant

A two-floor pre-war villa full of chichi touches, flowers and crockery. Very pretty, but you’ll soon learn they attract return customers on account of the cooking, not the interiors. The setting might look high-end but the prices are certainly not, and you’ll find Różana recognised across the city as one of the best dinner deals around. The catfish fillet with white onion sauce, green pepper sauce with blanched spinach, garlic and black lentils is divine. Also try the roasted duck, with apple sauce, cranberries, potatoe purée and fried apple. Plenty claim to be open till the last customer leaves, but only these guys are the real deal – if there’s people dining then the kitchen will stay open, and that doesn’t matter if it’s midnight or daybreak. Don’t be shy to stay and eat, the staff are happy to make sure you are 100% satisfied with your visit. Highly recommended.

QH‑13, ul. Chocimska 7, MPole Mokotowskie, tel. (+48) 22 848 12 25, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl.

Open 12:00-23:00. €€€. T­E

Thai Thai utensils Thai Run by the Godfather of Warsaw’s Thai cuisine, Surachart Urajaroen, this restaurant is 100% the real deal. No messing around with fusion concepts or little Polish additions. The Thai kitchen team stick firmly to tradition and the results are spectacular.

Based in the National Theatre building itself, the exterior of hefty, grey stonework gives you no inkling of the opulent interior which awaits you.

Black walls decorated with Thai designs and gold

utensils International Hands down one of the best places we’ve been to recently. Found on the stylish ul. Emilii Plater (modern, vibrant, with a touch of pre-war class), PAM PAM had us intrigued as we walked in - a mix of classic style with postindustrial bare brick, and the back room, more private, cosy even. The entire place has a classiness to it, which is matched by the premium menu. Relax, and let the very professional waiting staff do their business - ever so helpful. Special mention must also go to head chef Paweł Rumowski whose own artistic flare is visible in all the creative dishes, filling but light, that will glide their way to your table. Stylish food, in both looks and taste, a classy setting, for business people having lunch meetings, to the more serious dinner dates for couples. A wonderful place.QF‑9, ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 629 29 29, www.pampam.com.pl. Open 17:00-22:00; Sat 15:00-22:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€.

72

As fresh as seafood can get! Head to the Lobster House.

Fine Dining | Restaurants

curved ceilings create a very calming and relaxing environment. The well laid out seating areas also offer you the option of dining in a more private space, great for business meetings or an intimate dinner date.QF‑5, Pl. Teatralny 3, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 601 81 82 83, www.thaithai.pl. Open 12:0022:00. €€€. X­T­B

of the venue before you go - quite fun!QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 600 99 99 33, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€.

T­B­6

U Fukiera

Sometimes stiff formality and pretence go hand in hand with fine dining venues, and although the food may be great, overall it all feels, uch...tiring. It’s therefore nice to experience exclusive dining in the Japanese Izakaya style (informal eating) restaurant.

Wabu is very much a place for all types of people, from businessmen, families to tourists, so relax and enjoy. The interior is a minimal and elegantly unfussy gem, going for that old Japanese look, blending in nicely with its modern surroundings on Plac Europejski. The menu is varied, inclusive of what you’d expect in sushi restaurants, however, Wabu also provide a kids menu, and a mighty lunch menu (12:00-15:00, 12 sushi pieces for 39zł). The alcohol menu is extensive and bound to please everybody.

Wabu is simple and elegant. Recommended.QC‑7, Plac Europejski 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 668 92 59 59, www.wabu.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Kitchen open until 22:30. €€€€. T­U­B­6

utensils Polish The most famous and oldest restaurant in town, and not by just a few years, we’re talking about a tradition going all the way back to the 16th century! Taken under the wing of Magda Gessler, of Poland’s MasterChef fame, this classy place has a guestbook that speaks for itself; Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson are a few of the names who’ve taken a seat here. And no wonder.

The magical interior is a work of art, crowded with paintings and antiques, all blending with the tastes and scents of your food to create a fantastic ambience - it’s hard not to feel like you’re a part of history when dining here. Right in the hert of Warsaw’s Old Town, enjoy the delicious, perfectlypresented food and soak up the atmosphere. Check out their website for a 360 degree multimedia tour

Wabu Sushi & Japanese Tapas utensils Japanese

73

Restaurants | Casual Dining

Casual dining Guru (p.69) sets the bar high for Indian food in Warsaw

There’s no lack of casual dining in Warsaw, because sometimes fine dining just isn’t the right option whether it’s because of a budget or because you have hyperactive and fussy kids - or you’re in a large group of hyperactive and fussy adults! The venues listed here don’t make our list for the sake of it - they’re here because they make damn good food. While our rigorously researched opening hours would seem self-explanatory, be aware that venues will close their doors if business is slow, and some ‘restobars’ employ different sets of hours for bar and kitchen - the times we list in such cases are for the kitchen.

Beef n’ Pepper utensils Steak Hidden away in a small alleyway alongside the famous Roma Theatre, the exterior may well look like you’re about to enter a 1970’s shopping mall, but inside it’s a smart, urban steakhouse and bar.

Expect top grade Polish cattle (28 days wet-aged) - the quality is excellent and the fact that they use the finest local meat means prices are surprisingly reasonable. Seafood options and Louisiana Chicken Wings struggle for a look-in as beef rules. In addition to a fine wine list, the slick bar also has a brilliant selection of whiskies and bourbons. Live music is available every Tuesday from 19:00.QF‑9, ul.

74

Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 785 02 50 25, www.beefandpepper.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. €€€€. T­U­B­E­6

Bez Tytułu utensils International Ul. Poznańska continues its hefty onslaught to become one of the hippest streets in the city centre with the opening of this elegant restaurant and cocktail bar. The restaurant is owned by partnership - Julien Barbotin-Larrieu and Kasia Michalski, who also run the contemporary art space in the foyer of this gloriously renovated townhouse. The space combines a number of intimate areas all linked by ‘untitled’ (Bez Tytułu) artworks from their collection.

Head chef, Erwan Debono may bring his French culinary expertise to the kitchen, but this is a man who brilliantly combines the best international and local produce for his unique signature dishes.

Ms. Michalski is certainly raising the art meets fine dining experience to a truly international level in the city. Their ‘Bez Tytułu’ bar, found in the basement, is open Tue-Sat from 17:00 (to the last client), where you can try a cocktail to accompany a snack.QF‑9, ul. Poznańska 16, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 251 52 88, www.beztytulu.com. Open 17:00-23:45; closed Mon, Sun. €€€. X­T­6

Casual Dining | Restaurants Ciao Napoli utensils Italian Located a short distance away from the Old Town Square (p.27), Ciao Napoli’s aim is to bring a little piece of Naples to the centre of Warsaw. Having originally opened on Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8 (F-4) to great success, boasting some of the city’s best pizza, imagine our delight when they opened this 2nd location with more seating, a bigger kitchen, and an expanded menu, with all the friendly atmosphere and cosiness of the first restaurant. Offering a selection of antipasti, salads, seafood, and desserts, it is the choice of Neapolitan pizzas with their fantastic thin and crispy dough which really stick out. Breakfast is served 09:00-11:00, and lunch specials of soup, entree and a water are available Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 for 27zł. As if things couldn’t get any better, they have fresh mussels every Thursday, daily happy hours with 2-for-1 cocktails (16:00-19:00), and on weekends your 2nd bottle of Prosecco is free!. You leave satisfied, especially when you realise just how reasonably priced the whole experience was, despite being in a tourist hotspot.QF‑4, ul. Długa 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 666 32 27 33, www. ciaonapoli.pl. Open 9:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 9:00-23:00. 1 hour break between 11:00-12:00. €€. T­B­6

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi utensils Polish Walking in the Old Town (p.24), you’re going to feel an air of nostalgia. The location is stunning, and the atmosphere sums up the traditional romantic image of Poland. To top it off, you’re going to want to try some traditional Polish grub, right? Gościniec has just that, with hearty food from soups, pierogi, potato pancakes and various meat offerings, all at very reasonable prices.

You can’t go wrong with pierogi, but we’d personally recommend cabbage rolls stuffed with meat (known locally as gołąbki - go-womp-ki)! The drinks on offer are quite funky (cold/hot options), all served up by friendly staff wearing folk attire! It may feel very kitsch inside,

Beef n' Pepper

but the food is immense. They have other locations on ul. Nowy Świat 41, and deep in the Old Town on Podwale 19 and ul. Piwna 14, should you choose to venture some more before eating.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 29, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 273 69 36, www.gosciniec.waw.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00. €. T­B­6

Namaste India utensils Indian What began as a modest Indian-owned grocery store soon expanded into a full-on ethnic restaurant and proved so popular that a second location was needed to meet the demand for delicious Indian cuisine - that was 15 years ago! Impressive. For office workers around town, this - the expanded original location - remains one of the best, and we’ll agree that it simply doesn’t get much better for Indian food in the capital. Better still, the prices are set so low you can’t help but ask what’s the catch. There isn’t one; we’ve tried pretty much everything on the menu, and have yet to find a weak link. Consider ringing ahead for takeaway because waiting times can be torture and ask about booking their new private room for parties and meetings.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl.

Open 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. B 75

Restaurants | Casual Dining OTO!SUSHI utensils Japanese One of our favourite sushi spots in Warsaw which in 2019 celebrated it’s 10th anniversary. Sure, the location helps – who can argue with eating on swanky Nowy Świat (p.34)? – but the helpful staff and great menu options put it squarely on top.

They offer traditional sushi, but they’re not afraid to experiment with flavours too (mixing strawberries with salmon maki rolls is surprisingly delightful)!

Ducking in for a lunch special will get you heaps of fresh sushi along with a free miso soup, and green tea for a reasonable price. The sushi masters engage with customers (something the regulars love!) as they ply their trade, but the interaction doesn’t end there, for they also arrange sushi training sessions and live cooking shows (check their Facebook page for upcoming events). Catering service and takeaway option with delivery also available. You can’t go wrong with this place.QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 46, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 828 00 88, www.oto-sushi.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€. U­B

The Alchemist Grill & Cocktail utensils International

Indian Lounge

NEW

utensils Indian Quite literally no expense has been spared in creating this fresh-looking Indian restaurant in the heart of the Wola district. The effects are clearly visible. Enter through the sizeable patio (great in summer!) into the leafy interior where plants aplenty throughout (standing, hanging, painted on the walls), which combine to make this a modern take on a tried and tested formula. But now to the food. Choose from a substantive menu, which includes all the classics; Tandoori Chicken, Garlic Malai Prawns, Salmon Fish Tikka but for those with an inquisitive pallet, we recommend Special Garlic Curry and Special Mango Curry - healthy, and super-tasty. Choose your meal, choose veg or meat options, and of course, choose your spice level. We have high hopes for this restaurant, and you’d be wise to keep an eye out for their events calendar through Facebook. Qul. Wolska 38, MPłocka, tel. (+48) 579 33 33 37, www.indianlounge.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €. T­U­B­6

We already love The Alchemist for bringing the future of drinking not only to Warsaw but to the world, with their patented ‘beer wall’ (8 taps). As impressive as their cocktails and beer selection is, however, the real reason to visit is their awardwinning food (Gault & Millau 2020). Enjoy gourmet interpretations of Polish standards and classics like burgers and fish & chips, but their specialty is juicy steaks grilled and served on hot lava plates. The presentation is as sleek and pleasing as the interior design, which is hard not to admire. Fun fact: the Warsaw Metropolitan where The Alchemist is housed was designed by British architect Norman Foster. A touch of modernity added to the Old Town area. We can stay here for hours just chilling with our beer cards and sharing platters. Top venue.QF‑5, Plac Piłsudskiego 3, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 628 00 23, www.thealchemist.pl. Open 17:00-23:00; Fri 17:0001:00; Sat 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. B­6

The Legendary Jack’s Cinema Restaurant & Bar utensils American

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 76

So Mr. Jack Daniels is in town and he’s brought a projector screen with him! Opened in 2015, Jack’s is a bar, restaurant and event-only cinema, all

Casual Dining | Restaurants of which come together nicely. Found inside a renovated pre-war tenement building, the interior takes a 180 degree turn and has that American post-industrial feel, with a ceiling blotted out with hundreds of JD bottles - quite the touch! For food, the steaks, burgers, ribs in BBQ sauce and chicken wings are outstanding. For drinks at the bar, aside from the obvious choice, there are dozens of options from beers to the harder stuff! Keep an eye on their site for all the latest info on karaoke, concerts and other events in the dedicated mini cinema hall! Turn up, kick back in their deep sofas and seats, enjoy the food, the drinks, the show, and of course, the atmosphere. Cheers, Jack!QG‑8, ul. Bracka 18, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 400 28 23, www.jackscinema.pl. Open 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:0000:00. €€. T­U­E­6

U Barssa utensils Polish The Old Town is packed with decent places to eat, but once lacked a strong line-up of truly great places.

Times, they have a-changed. As you walk across the main market square and into the elegant dining room, you will discover a world of luxury, craft and privilege.

The signature duck baked with beetroot, fried apples and cranberry sauce, and the Angus steak with green pepper are just two of the winning dishes on the menu, and we have to mention the outstanding wine list! They also have a huge summer garden and offer live music on Saturdays, so call ahead to reserve your space in this charming place.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 12/14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 24 76, www.ubarssa.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. €€€. T­B­E

Zwierzyniec Beer & Rest

NEW

utensils Polish Right in the centre of Warsaw, this casual restaurant channels the wild, natural spirit of East-Central Poland, offering the down-home delicacies of the Roztocze region at very reasonable prices. Choose from marinated sturgeon, sorrel soup, or braised beef cheeks with rosemary dumplings, washing it all down with their own Zwierzyniec brand Pilsner (a steal at only 10zł per half-litre). This being the capital, you can rest assured that you won’t be savouring the delicious dishes in a folk kitsch setting, but rather artfully-presented on beautiful flatware in a sleek, modern interior of large windows opening out onto the seasonal sidewalk patio. Fresh beer, fresh ingredients and refreshingly affordable, this one’s an easy winner.QG‑8, Bracka 18, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 663 925 938. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. B­6 77

Restaurants | Vegan & Vegetarian

Vegan & Vegetarian Warsaw is the 6th most vegan friendly city in the world (it’s official!). | Photo: Brook Lark @ Unsplash.com

For a country that loves its meaty dishes, it may seem like a surprise that Warsaw finds itself voted as the 6th most vegan-friendly city in the world by Happy Cow, the leading international guide for vegan restaurants!

It’s the 3rd year in a row that Poland’s capital has been included in the top 10! But hey, for as much as meaty dishes dominate Polish menus, veg has forever been a staple of dishes too, and now comes the vegan revolution! Today, you can find 50 vegan venues in and around the city centre - 5 years ago, the figure was only 11! If we include restaurants which offer a vegan option, then that figure goes way above 100!

Happy eatin’.

Lokal Vegan Bistro This communally run “local” restaurant have achieved the impossible: they serve up hot and hearty plates of VEGAN Polish dishes that are often more delicious than their pork-heavy counterparts.

What is more, they frequently change their entire menu so unless you check out their FB page you won’t know exactly what to find. Alongside vegan ‘cutlets’, cabbage concoctions and beet soups, you’ll also find plenty of more exotic international 78

dishes plus a few surprises. Huge portions, fresh ingredients, cheap prices (Mon-Fri 12-16, a lunch menu consisting of a ‘cutlet’, soup and kompot drink for 25zł), a buzzing friendly atmosphere filled with locals all add up to be one of the best spots for a healthy lunch or dinner in the city centre.QG‑9, ul.

Krucza 23/31, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 517 61 51 22, www.lokalveganbistro.pl. Open 12:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-19:00. €€. P­T­U­B­6

Mango Vegan Street Food Mango has rapidly built up a cult following for its cheap and cheerful vegan fair in the city centre. The menu may be short but it’s a great place to enjoy a range of Arabic and Israeli influenced flavours, from juicy vegan burgers, falafel based options to soups, smoothies and drinks - have a lunch for 24zł! The yellow and white painted brickwork interior makes this ‘fast food’ joint look effortlessly hip. The tatted and bearded staff are friendly, funny and enjoy a bit of clowning around.QG‑8, ul. Bracka 20, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 535 53 36 29, www.mangovegan.com.pl.

Open 11:30-21:00; Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00. €€.

T­B­6

Vegan & Vegetarian | Restaurants Tel Aviv Food & Wine Jewish cuisine in Warsaw gets a bad rap – think singing waiters and old town rip-offs. So Tel Aviv is a refreshing change, a cool vegan restaurant that doesn’t play to the standard caricature. On the contrary, find a hip venue that draws everything from intrigued backpackers to remnants of the local Jewish community to lovers of middle eastern cuisine (hello, hummus). Weirdness like Sabbath chillout sessions add to the random, eclectic nature of this place, and it’s rounded out nicely by Israeli drinks and nibbles.

This place does well to show that vegan cuisine can be both visually stunning and damn tasty, with menus featuring plant-based and gluten-free menus.

It’s become quite the cult venue in Warsaw.QF‑9, ul. Poznańska 11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 621 11 28, www.telaviv.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. €€. T­B­6

Veg Deli Situated on a tranquil tree-lined residential street in the Powiśle area of the city, Veg Deli has certainly managed to up the ante regarding vegetarian restaurants in Warsaw. The freshly prepared vegetarian and vegan dishes are richly coloured, fragrant and look, smell and taste amazing; there’s even a bar serving alcohol. Even seasoned carnivores such as us were knocked out by the food and natural drinks on offer.QH‑6, ul. Radna 14, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 796 61 75 15, www.vegdeli.pl. Open 12:0021:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. 6

Potato slices!

Photo: Monika Grabowska @ Unsplash

Vege Bistro This bright bistro serves up hearty and healthy vegan lunches and dinners. They draw inspiration from Eastern and Western cuisines and unlike many other vegan joints, the flavours are bursting off the plate. Daily lunch specials plus a stocked set menu of rainbow bowl with rice noodles, white rice with kimchi, oyster mushroom wings, pulled bbq “duck”! Grab a juice, coffee or craft beer to wash it down and you’re all set for the rest of the day.QG‑7, ul. Mikołaja Kopernika 25, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 516 02 79 06, www.vegebistro.pl. Open 12:00-18:00; Mon 12:0017:00. €. 6

Vege Miasto

Charcoal buns are all the rage. Photo: Creatv Eight @ Unsplash.com

A paradise for Warsaw’s healthy eating, vegan and gluten-free fanatics. The interior is a pretty simple affair with fittings made from old wooden crates and palettes. The smallish space is permanently packed with a variety of customers; hip vege devotees sit alongside business types, local ladies and tourists in search of something beyond a fried pig and a kilo of potatoes. 2nd location, going by the name Caffe Miasto on Al. Solidarności 84.QE‑5, Al. Solidarności 60A, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 251 05 25, www. vegemiasto.pl. Open 12:00-21:00; Mon 12:00-20:00. €€.

T­B­6 79

Restaurants | Food Markets

Food Markets Hala Hoszyki (p.81) is Warsaw’s melting pot! | Photo by Jakub Dziubak on Unsplash

Food and drink markets are becoming ever popular in Poland, and especially so in the capital. Day time markets, night markets, street food festivals, beer festivals, indoors, outdoors, they’re all available in high and low season, spread out across Warsaw like a big cuddly safety blanket. Eat up, drink up, simply indulge by checking out some of Warsaw’s best food markets, which we’ve listed here for you.

Elektrownia Powiśle From the outside, it’s obvious that this former power station has been given a new boost of energy following a major overhaul. What is essentially a classier-thanaverage shopping mall, in fact, also contains a whole host of gastro eateries, bars and event space! The central food court has the feel of a street food market, with 14 street food stalls and restaurants to choose from. But that doesn’t mean you have to settle for this as there are also fully functioning restaurants to choose from in the opposite office buildings too! Your spoilt for choice and can let your tastes or budget decide where you want to grab some grub. And once the food is done, check out the 3 bars: Kandela, Centrala and Elektryk. Awesome. Don’t forget to 80

regularly check their events calendar for all manner of happenings, but specifically for foodies, their ‘Eko Targ’ (Eco Market) selling GMO-free locally grown produce!

Everything under one roof! Kudos!QH‑6, ul. Zajęcza 2B, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Open 11:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-02:00. T­U­B­E­6

Hala Gwardii

Hala Gwardii, the twin building of Hala Mirowska (D6), has returned to its pre-war roots and is once more a food market where you can peruse and buy speciality products or feast on local and imported foods from a big choice of stalls. After the war, it served as a bus depot until eventually becoming a sports hall used by the military Sports Guard Club (from where the name originates). It’s an eclectic mix of things, being a market, a food hall, a place for events, and it is still in use for sports like boxing (the walls are adorned with legends of the Polish boxing scene), all in a grimier version of Hala Mirowska - the exterior of the building is not in great shape!. The choice of food is very much worth exploring!QE‑6, Plac Żelaznej Bramy 1, MRondo ONZ, www.halagwardii.pl. Open Fri, Sat 09:00-01:00; Sun 10:00-23:00 only.

Food Markets | Restaurants

The main food hall in Elektrownia Powiśle

Hala Koszyki From the outset Hala Koszyki has managed to raise the love and hate hackles of the city’s ‘out on the town’ set. How many world cuisine eateries of various sizes can you squeeze into one space? Actually, due to its popularity, fate may decide what you’ll eat as tables are packed most times of the day or night. Amazingly popular amongst the young and the beautiful, Hala K will probably remain THE place to be seen for some time to come - mainly because it’s easy to be seen due to its open plan layout. Top class little independent bistros sit next to some of Warsaw’s chain restaurants, like Tuk Tuk and the biggest restaurateurs including Mateusz Gessler’s gastronomic outpost - Port Royal.

The main hall has some brilliant food on offer, with stalls offering flavours from all over the world. There are of course some shops here too, however, in reality, they’ll always play second fiddle to the top class dining area. Even if you can’t find a table at any of the cool eateries and bars, we urge you to spend some time taking in this stunning market hall. Don’t forget to look up, down, sideways etc. as beautiful hidden details abound!QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00-01:00.

Hala Gwardii, part of Hala Mirowska

A truly great place to eat, drink and chill out in good company. To get there, take a tram (no.s 7, 9, 22, 24 or 25) from the centre, stop ‘Centrum’; get off at Pl. Zawiszy and walk toward the long alley with ‘Warszawa Główna’ emblazoned on the building.

Alternatively, get to metro Rondo Daszyńskiego and walk the short distance.QC‑9, ul. Towarowa 3, MRondo Daszyńskiego. Open Thu 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-01:00; Sun 16:00-23:00; closed Mon, Tue, Wed.

Nocny Market (Night Market) Nocny Market is a unique idea now in its 6th year, bringing together many bars, cafes, restaurants and street food trucks into one location, Thu-Sun. If that wasn’t enough to tickle your interest, the location too is unique, being on the platform of a disused train station (Warszawa Główna). Walk from stall to stall, truck to truck, with old train signs dotted around, and the platform adorned with neon lights and artwork.

Before darkness descends on the Night Market

81

Bottoms up with classy drinks at Woda Ognista (p.85)

4 Polish Alcohols You Have to Try …plus several others that also work…

Polish Alcohol | Local Flavours

Vodka Translator

Poland’s national drink has many exciting variations for you to try… © Fabrizio Sciami

1. Żołądkowa Gorzka Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. Though it comes in a variety of flavours, the original orange label (‘tradycyny’) is an aged, amber-coloured liquor flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa has a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything you’re likely to have tried before.

2. Żubrówka One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka - also known as Bison Grass Vodka - has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to the primeval Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste which has been described as ‘floral’ or having traces of almond or vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka’ or ‘szarlotka’ depending where you are.

3. Krupnik Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet liquor made from honey and a multitude of herbs.

Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking booze doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices.

4. Miód Pitny Mead, or ‘drinkable honey,’ preceded beer’s arrival in Poland and has remained a favourite since the Middle Ages. Since 2008, Polish meads have been protected under EU law as a traditional specialty.

Distilled from honey, the drink comes in 4 strengths with Połtorak being the strongest (15-18%).

Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling some of the best vodka blends available in the world. The most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere, Chopin, Luksusowa, Ostoya, Pan Tadeusz and Wyborowa, all of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mixing in cocktails, the real fun is in sampling Poland’s flavoured vodkas and nalewki - a large range of Polish liqueurs and aged tinctures made from vodka or neutral spirits and fruits, herbs and spices. Vodka shot & snack bars like Pijalnia Wódki on ul. Nowy Świat 19 (G-8) are a great place to try them. Here are just some of the notable varieties: Wiśniówka - cherry vodka Cytrynówka - lemon vodka Pigwówka - quince vodka Orzechówka - walnut vodka Piołunówka - wormwood liquor Wódka figowa - fig vodka Wódka śliwkowa - plum vodka Wódka gruszkowa - pear vodka

Warsaw’s Best Beer Gardens Having to spend a few months every year freezing, it’s no surprise locals dive right into beer gardens as soon as Mr. Sun appears. There are many, but we have a few recommendations. If you’re in Warsaw for a short time, the main tourist trail, the Royal Route (p.30) leading to the Old Town (p.24), is jam-packed with outdoor seating and courtyard gardens - accessible for all budgets! One of our top choices are the Pavillions (Pawilony), a ramshackle collection of dive bars at ul. Nowy Świat 26 (G-7). If beer gardens are less your thing, head down to the river. The Vistula Boulevards (p.44) on the left bank offers seasonal bars and deck chairs. On the other side, there are more beaches and bars, like the popular La Playa (G-4).

Nearby, ul. Francuska in the leafy Saska Kępa area (L-7) becomes a hive of activity with every bar, cafe and restaurant spilling out onto the streets with chairs and tables everywhere! For something 'alternative', mixing the best of the Night Market’s (p.81) street food, with bars and clubs with a circus ground flare, then head to one of our favourite new outdoor fun places: Lunapark (K-8).

83

Nightlife | New & Featured

Bottoms up at The Alchemist Grill & Cocktail

Nightlife in Warsaw There was a time not long ago when a bar in Warsaw was just a dull place to go and get drunk - that’s it. Though the concept of a bar as a social venue is still relatively new, the choice of modern venues - whether cool dive joints or sleek exclusive cocktail bars - is now immense.

Go enjoy yourself and na zdrowie (cheers)!

84

New & Featured | Nightlife

Woda Ognista Cocktail Bar Before we detail the place, we’ll mention the area - ul. Wilcza, one of many nice streets that can be described as ‘off the beaten track’, hiding some wonderful pre-war architecture you might miss if you don’t stray from Warsaw’s main drag, ul. Marszałkowska. Emitting a nostalgic air of bygone days, Woda Ognista captures and bottles this atmosphere of ‘forgotten Warsaw’, with classy 1920s-30s decor and a primly dressed staff that exude panache. Prepare to be impressed by their seasonal offerings, fantastic Polish-style cocktails and dishes that take you on a journey through Warsaw’s cultural history. Put simply, this is a wonderful place to experience a modern spin on pre-war Varsovian style and we’re sure the likes of Eugeniusz Bodo and Mieczysław Fogg would have approved.

QH‑9, ul. Wilcza 8, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 258 14 41, www.wodaognista.com. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 17:0002:00. 6

The Alchemist Grill & Cocktail Cocktail Bar It’s still worth noting that this bar is where the plan for the future of drinking was hatched. The Alchemist’s patented “Beer Wall” was the first of its kind in Europe; working with a handy “Beer Wall” card, you can pour yourself as many drinks (local craft beer, cider and prosecco are typically represented) as you like from the 8 taps on the wall. Futuristic guzzling gizmos aside, however, the signature cocktails that shimmer, swirl and smoke are where the Alchemist earns its name, and their award-winning food (Gault & Millau 2020) makes this venue a must-visit. On the card are delicious burgers and steaks - innovative interpretations of American and British classics. If all this wasn’t enough, in the summer, it’s the spacious terrace that draws the locals to lounge around for hours enjoying the results of the Alchemist’s experimentation...

QF‑5, Plac Piłsudskiego 3, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 628 00 23, www.thealchemist.pl. Open 17:00-23:00; Fri 17:00-01:00; Sat 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. T­U­B­6

85

Nightlife | Bars

Bars

Classy smiles and drinks are always evident at Woda Ognista (p.85).

The explosion of bars in Warsaw means you are never far from a fresh beer or decent nightspot, however, local knowledge is a prerequisite to achieving a successful time out. This section highlights some of our favourite venues for all budgets. But time for some quick tips: Warsaw‘s young arty crowd prefer the down-at-heel clubs and bars in the districts across the river: Stara Praga (H/I-4) and the fashionable and increasingly gentrified Saska Kępa (L-7), whereas the young trendy crowds head to the hipsteresque Powiśle district (p.42). Lads on holiday stick to the party strip on ul. Mazowiecka (F-6/7) and skint travellers and students enjoy the vibe of the dive bars

Symbol Key

86

6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

o Year-round Garden

X Smoking room available

in The Pavilions (Pawilony, G-7) inside the courtyard on ul. Nowy Świat 26. In practice, many bars will stay open well beyond the call of duty if the need arises (and you’re continuing to spend), but by the same benchmark will happily bolt the doors if business is slow.

AURA Bar Bar Walking around Warsaw’s atmospheric city centre side streets, you could easily miss this place. It’s barely bigger than a small bedroom. Despite its size, it’s been causing quite a stir amongst Warsaw locals who are more than happy to squeeze in. Found on the corner of an eye catching pre-war residential building, entering, you’ll immediately see why all the hype is justifed. Small, dark, moody in all the right ways; it has a relaxed Moroccan interior design to draw your attention. Once you’ve stopped looking at the design of the place, your head then spins in the direction of the wall of bourbons behind the bar - a

Bars | Nightlife huge selection for such a small venue. The cocktails here, based on seasonal ingredients, are as delicious as the atmosphere. It’s hard not to be impressed by such small places that pack a big punch.QG‑9, ul. Hoża 27, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 791 88 81 98. Open 17:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-02:00; Sun 17:00-24:00. B­6

Back Room Bar Cocktail Bar Head down ul. Koszykowa, just off from Plac Konstytucji, and at no. 53 on your left, head down to the end of the lane which looks more like a residential car park. Keep hugging the right-hand side, walking past a few restaurants, and voilà, you’ll reach the Back Room Bar - an appropriate name indicating how well hidden it is! It would be a shame to miss this place, as inside, the mix of American 1930s bar and inter-war Varsovian lifestyle is strong; all with a heady art deco atmosphere. To top off the atmospehere, they have live music every Thu & Fri from 20:30. The cocktails the friendly dressed-for-the-part staff make are great, the setting perfect for a private drink, or a mingling session with friends. No harm in trying it out, huh?QG‑10, ul.

Koszykowa 49A, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 794 49 56 59, www.backroom.bar. Open 19:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 19:0002:00; closed Mon, Sun. E

Charlie Cocktail Bar Billing itself as a venue where elegance meets comfort, this lounge bar feels like the type of place your classy ole pal Charlie himself would invite you into. If you don’t know anyone called Charlie, then let this venue be the substitute to fill that void! Found on the likewise elegant ul. Mokotowska, one of our favourite areas of Warsaw, just off the beaten track, come here to check out a wide selection of cocktails, all in the pleasantly dark and moody atmosphere.

Their calendar of events, hosting live acts, jazz music, a Saturday DJ and various parties are legendary.QG‑10, ul. Mokotowska 39, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 739 09 75 14, www.charliebar.pl. Open 19:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 19:0003:00; closed Mon, Sun. X­E

Hard Rock Cafe Cocktail Bar Sure you don’t need to see Freddie Mercury’s red leather pants to enjoy a night out, but it certainly doesn’t hurt. The Hard Rock Cafe’s large downstairs bar area is jumping at night even when live rock shows aren’t on the agenda. The endless bar mixes up a long list of colourful cocktails for a heavily ex87

Nightlife | Bars Lunapark Bar 2020 marks the 2nd season of this outdoor fun place to hang out along the Praga side of the river. If you’re a fan of Nocny Market/Night Market (check), Warmut (check), were a fan of the old Hocki Klocki (check), and of street food trucks and markets (check), then you’ll love this place.

The crazy fairground ‘Lunapark’ concept is the brainchild of the owners of the aforementioned venues, with Hocki Klocki having vaulted across the river to its new location, one of two clubs here, along with the new Wata Cukrowa inside a circus tent (wait, what?!), and a host of other bars.

With the nightlife sorted, you’ll be glad to know that their Mini Market filled with street food takes up the role of Nocny Market’s younger sibling.

There’s recreational fun to be had here during the weekend daytime hours, then more food, alcohol and beats to be sampled at night. It’s already regarded as awesome after its 2ndyear of operation.QK‑8, Wał Miedzeszyński 407, MStadion Narodowy. Open Fri 17:00-05:00; Sat 14:00-05:00; Sun 14:00-23:00. E­6 The drinks dreamed up in The Roots (p.89) may have you frothing at the mouth.

pat crowd taking in paraphernalia like a well-worn Bee Gees guitar and a black leather outfit that formerly clung to Madonna’s early 90s frame. Music is available courtesy of Rock Radio Fri 14:00-18:00.QE‑8, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.com/location/warsaw. Open 09:00-23:00. 6

Jabeerwocky Craft Beer ‘Beware the Jabeerwocky...’, no wait, this one’s not a fictional monster, but a bare-brick dive bar found inside a fine residential building right in the city centre. And one worth checking out too with 17 taps offering some fine craft beers, and bottles of whiskey too! This is a great place to kick back with friends for some good chat, and if you’re desperate to watch some sports, they have a large projector screen and TV for you to stare at if the chat’s not good enough. Aside from the craft beers, they also have bourbon on the menu, along with some basic snacks. A separate room is open available to book out for closed parties, which can hold up to 35 people.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 12, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 254 31 07. Open 14:00-24:00; Wed, Thu 14:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-02:00; Sun 15:0024:00. 6 88

The Legendary Jack’s Cinema Restaurant & Bar Bar Bottles at the bar, bottles on the ceilings, and why not, considering you’re signature alcoholic drink is one of the world’s most recognisable brands. Not just a bar, this does some great American style grub, from burgers, steaks, ribs in BBQ sauce to fried chicken (what else, huh?). What’s more, the quirk of this place is the cinema screen round back, great for films, live screenings of sports events, or the space itself can be used for live music and or various events. Come here for a drink, food, and definitely

Classy cocktails and 1920s panache in Woda Ognista (‘Fire Water’, p.85).

Bars | Nightlife

check out their events calendar on Facebook.QG‑8, ul. Bracka 18, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 400 28 23, www.jackscinema.pl. Open 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:0022:00. T­U­E­6

The ROOTS Cocktail Bar & more Cocktail Bar While the cocktail revolution continues to shake and stir Warsaw’s drinking habits, some places manage to stand out from the crowd. In our opinion The Roots has secured a special place in the hearts of cocktail devotees. First up, the bar is a shrine to the noble art of being a barman/cocktail mixer, check out their intriguing collection of vintage ‘tools of the trade’ – the growing collection of mixers alone stands at nearly 100 items! Add to this a library of antiquarian books on the subject of bartending/cocktail mixing and you know you are dealing with hardcore scholarly mixologists. Two great menus; one featuring classics of the trade and another which presents signature drinks based on seasonal Polish regional flavours. Food is also available in the form of Polish fusion menu, which in itself sounds intriguing. Quite brilliant!QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 33, www.therootsbar.com. Open 17:0024:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-02:00. 6

Weles Bar Cocktail Bar Walk past and you could very easily miss the entrance to this, well, quite frankly, hidden cocktail bar. Found in the far corner of an alleyway, you woulnd’t give a 2nd glance to the rather barren looking entrance.

It’s looks as if they were trying to hide something, but don’t worry, there’s no prohibition shenanigans here, instead, a crypt-like bar which descends into the underworld...not literally, thankfully, but instead to the mysterious domain of Weles, the Slavic god of the underworld, and patron of magic, music and prosperity. The moody crypt vibe they’re rockin’ is definitely intriguing, so much so, that to not sample some of the drinks which catch your eye as the barmen ply their trade would feel like an offence to Weles himself! Try we did, and converted we were. The cocktails are perfect. To say anymore would give away too many secrets, which you can only discover with a visit...QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 602 77 39 97, www.welesbar.pl. Open 19:00-02:00; Sun 19:00-24:00. E

More reviews online at warsaw.inyourpocket.com 89

Nightlife | Clubs

Clubs SEN (p.91): It was all just a dream...

Clubs in Warsaw range from sedate to sinful, and we cover the full gamut here. A night spent clubbing means you’ll most likely greet the dawn because, unlike the closing times you might be used to, Polish clubs stay open until the sun comes up. Expect a cover charge at most venues that can range from 5-20zl depending on events, and note that toilet paper is often a luxury that seems to universally run out around 22:00.

Enklawa - The Legendary Nightlife

It may be quiet by day, but Mazowiecka is home to a number of the city’s top nightspots and high up the list comes Enklawa. Keeping their fingers on the pulse of current club trends, live music and fashion events it attracts a pretty classy and sassy weekend crowd, and to stay ahead of the game, they’ve recently undergone a big renovation, which includes some huge screen! If you can’t wait for Friday to come around, not a problem, hit the club as early as Wednesday to appease your desire! Inside, you’ll find 3 bars and a very spacious dancefloor, which you can enjoy, or watch over, from their VIP booths.

90

Enklawa’s popularity means there may be a queue to get past the lads on the door, but once inside, you’ll find a unique atmosphere like no other venue in Warsaw.QF‑6, ul. Mazowiecka 12, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 31 51, www.enklawa.com. ; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun. Open Fri, Sat 22:00-05:00 only. X­U

Hulakula Indoor entertainment centre by day, and indoor entartainment centre by night - but at night, under a very different guise than its more family orientated daytime function. It may not immediately seem like it, but the idea to also use an entertainment centre as an altogether great night out for nightlife seekers is a top idea. The indoor space is huge and great at weekends with DJ sets. We wholeheartedly encourage you to check out their calendar for upcoming events. We guarantee you’ll be pleasantly surprised and definitely won’t be disappointed!QJ‑4, ul. Jagiellońska 82B, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 669 00 10 01, www. hulakula.com.pl. Open 16:00-22:00; Fri 16:00-03:00; Sat 14:00-03:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. X­U

Clubs | Nightlife Level 27 To anyone with vertigo, a word of warning: as the name suggests, this is not some dingy cellar club, but rather an ecstatic rooftop party that puts you in the centre of Warsaw’s skyline. Rated one of the best clubs in the world, Level 27 occupies the top floor of a modern skyscraper, and includes a 450m2 open-air terrace in the summer. A showcase for high society’s beautiful people, DJs typically spin R&B and hip hop, but anything can happen from fire shows to fashion runways (check their FB). Arrive early for an incredible sunset, or better yet, keep pace with these party people to see it come up again from the best vantage point in town. Are you on the level?QC‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. (+48) 733 66 10 94, www.level27.pl. Open Thu 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 21:00-04:00. E

NA LATO Day & Night Na Lato has long been a Powiśle favourite. The setting, both the location and the interior, work well, as they are pleasant on the eye and the soul. After a meal, sit back at the bar on a Fri/Sat, letting the night set in. Pre-pandemic and COVID-restrictions, Na Lato transformed into a dance floor, which has provided us with some very fond memories. Get well fed, or sit at the bar continuing what you were doing before. If that’s not enough, check out Jackpot Warsaw 777 on the premises, a heady mix of palm trees and 19th century Tennessee bar feel - very romantic, indeed.

QI‑9/10, ul. Rozbrat 44A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 696 87 84 49, www.na-lato.com. Open 09:00-23:00; Fri 09:0003:00; Sat 10:00-03:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. X

Come sundown, things get a little wild at Level 27.

be disappointed. Although not huge, the panoramic backdrop pairs up perfectly with the lounge vibe. There is a door selection, so dress to impress, and don’t be put off the staff do their best to maintain the unique and positive character inside, which just adds to your enjoyment. The music’s great and the bar is well stocked, what’s not to enjoy? If you stay until the end, you may very well agree with the venue’s tag line: it was all a dream.QJ‑7, Ul. Wioślarska 6, MCentrum Nauki Kopernika, tel. (+48) 883 02 50 25, www.senwarsaw.pl. ; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Open Thu, Fri & Sat 18:00-05:00 only. X­E

Room 13 Club & Lounge

Smolna

Warsaw has had the benefit of a club explosion (clubsplosion?) in the last decade or so, and after visiting venue upon venue, Room 13 is one that stands out.

Located in the heart of the legendary Mazowiecka street, the interior is a striking mix between modern club theme and stunning old architectural style of the building. Couches and pillows adorn the interior, and if your idea of heaven is two bars, a VIP room, a wide array of music and lots of high heels, then consider this your nirvana.QF‑6, ul. Mazowiecka 13, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 60 44, www.room13.pl.

Open Fri-Sat 22:00-05:00 only. X

This bunkerlike club based on the Berlin techno model is situated in a grand old city centre townhouse, just seconds away from the landmark ‘palm tree’. The music delves deep into the murky world of all aspects of electronica but they’re a pretty radical and experimental group of folks, so you never know what musical journey they’ll whisk you through.

Three dancefloors, including the outdoor patio space (the neighbours will love that one), three bars (cocktails included) and a chillout room make up this hugely popular venue. Keeping things enigmatic and secretive, they have a strict “no photos/no smartphone” policy and pretty cryptic advertising clips which tell you nothing. The door policy is reasonable, simply in place to keep out aggressive yobos and anyone with a Nikon D5200 strapped around their neck. Expect queues, especially during weekends.QH‑8, ul. Smolna 38, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, www.smolna38.com.

Open Wed 20:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 23:30-08:00 only.

SEN If you’ve come to SEN (PL for ‘dream’) to enjoy the restaurant (18:00-01:00), we give you a humble nod for making a solid choice, but if you’ve decided to stay and sup on the awesome cocktails, we salute you - you won’t

91

Nightlife | Clubs

Silent disco at Syreni Śpiew

Syreni Śpiew One of Warsaw’s favourite venues of recent times has returned, with the mermaid’s song (from where the name hails) carrying across the river to its new location in Praga Koneser Center (p.49). The postindustrial style fits in with the revamped ethos of Syreni Śpiew; a place to take in the atmosphere and create memories. With 4 floors, 4 bars and 3 stages, this is the perfect spot to sip away and eat during the day, and then party the weekend away.

Slide inside and let them ply you with upscale cocktails and top-shelf whiskies while you schmooze to some smooth tunes. While it’s a low-key high-class chill during the week, there are plenty of regular events to enjoy before the weekend vibe goes sublime with carefully curated live music and DJs (Thu-Sun) that keep the parties going all night long. Check their Facebook page for all the latest events.QK‑2, Plac Konesera 4, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 602 77 34 49, www.facebook.com/ syrenispiew. Open 12:00-22:00; Thu, Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. X­U­B­E­6

Teatro Cubano Warsaw The warm tropical Caribbean breeze has finally reached Warsaw in the form of the very first Cuban lounge and club. The giant palms outside flanking the entrance set the tone and as you enter the giant club you are enveloped by vibrant blues and yellows as the staircase takes you into the huge open spaced club with high ceilings. In the middle there’s a huge bar prominently featuring Havana Club rum, a likely sponsor of this jumping joint. Behind the bar is a massive stage which usually hosts regular international touring acts (many Caribbean!) as well as parties with DJ, mix of Latino and pop music. However, due to COVID-19, the dance floor part is closed until further notice. However, DJs are still spinning tunes and the bar is still operating with a colourful, friendly vibe. Stop by sometime!QF‑5, ul. Fredry 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 538 19 44 94, www.teatrocubano. com. Open 22:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 22:00-05:00. X­E 92

Adult Entertainment | Nightlife

Adult Entertainment If you’re in Warsaw and simply have your mind set on going to a strip club, we advise you to stick to our recommendations, which are vetted and centrally-located. When it comes to these types of establishments, we’ve heard reports of 8,000zł being spent willingly in one club listed here, and another of 8,000 sterling being spent unwillingly in one we don’t list. As ever, we urge you to be mindful, mind your manners, deal only in cash, don’t let anyone order drinks for you, and generally keep your wits about you. A good rule of thumb is to avoid street solicitation of any kind, especially if it comes in the form of a sweet girl with an umbrella inviting you to a club for a ‘drink’; also don’t get roped into buying a drink unless you know its price and can afford it. If you’re going to the club of your choice by taxi, make sure the driver takes you to the correct club, and not one miles away with whom they have a partnership.

Employ good common sense and we’re confident you’ll have a night to remember, not regret.

Playhouse Gentleman’s Club This smart gentlemen’s club, located in a chunky communist era building on al. Solidarności, has certainly hit the top of the tree (or pole?) with their classy approach to showing off the female form in luxurious surroundings. Their reputation in this market has even gone international, with influential website AskMen.com voting them the best strip club in the world in 2013! Three floors covering over 800m2, four bars, three VIP rooms, an in-house ATM and 57 sizzling hot women makes Playhouse THE place to visit for the discerning gent with a penchant for the erotic. Payment methods accepted: cash, card, Bitcoin and Paypal.QD‑5, Al. Solidarności 82A, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 794 00 70 00, www.playhouse.pl. Open 21:00-05:00. X

Sogo Club The largest of all the strip clubs in Warsaw at a size of 1200m2! It’s ridiculously easy to get to from any part of Warsaw. Simply head to the beginning of ul.

Nowy Świat (G-8, at the Palm Tree) and you’ll see the brightly lit building in the distance. The place consists of three levels: the main hall containing two bars and hundreds of seats, and VIP rooms, and even conference facilities. Should you want more privacy, the Gold Club option provides private rooms with a dedicated lounge bar and washroom facilities! The club has their customers desires in mind and will stay open longer if you feel you simply cannot leave at 05:00!QH‑7, Al. Jerozolimskie 6, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 92 09, www.sogoclub.pl. Open 20:00-05:00. X 93

Shopping

HE Concept Store (p.95), where Polish and International design meet

Shopping in Warsaw Paris, London or New York it ain’t, but hard-core shoppers can still find plenty to spend their well-earned lolly on. Warsaw is seeing true growth in the array of shops available and the number of bigname labels that are opening storefronts. Whether it’s westernstyle malls, designer boutiques, dusty family stores or antique markets, a day spent shopping can result in both bargains and treasures.

94

Shopping

Alcohol & Tobacco Alembik

If you’ve just come out of the Polish Vodka Museum in Praga Koneser Center (p.49) with a new appreciation for Poland’s national drink, then right around the corner, in the same building, you will find Alembik, a small but impressively stocked shop where you can purchase your very own vodkas. Here you will find Polish brands such as Luksusowa and Wyborowa, but not only, as they also sell premium whiskeys, cognacs, rums, gins and champagnes. For those with deeper pockets, there is also the opportunity to shop in private in their cosy 2nd room, where you can also enjoy tasting some exclusive products. Classy.QK‑2/3, Plac Konesera 1, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 513 28 92 60, www.koneser.eu. Open 12:00-19:00; closed Sun.

Amber & Jewellery Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line This gorgeous gallery specialises in luxury handcrafted jewellery of the amber variety, but crystal, silver and gold items can be purchased here too. This is the location of the largest and oldest amber dealer in the city, a family run business going back to 1988, proudly selling amber of Polish origin - certified by the International Amber Association. Even heads of State and royalty have been spotted procuring presents here, from Bill Clinton to Japanese princesses (whose thank you letters you can see inside)! Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top designers, plus high quality jewellery made with other precious stones.

QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, www.warsawamber.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:0017:00.

Fashion & Accessories HE Concept Store

NEW A high-class location for a high-class boutique. Forget shoddy souvenirs, this is where you’ll find some of the best items Polish and international design has to offer - all of which are completely unique to HE Concept Store. Enter the European Boutiques zone of Raffles Hotel Europejski from Krakowskie Przedmieście into what feels like a museum, and descend the mysterious spiral stairs into what indeed appears to open up into an exhibition space of chic and sleek designer items from artworks, high-quality handmade items, accessories, gadgets, and top of the line fashion. There’s even a wine bar to buy, and even sample signature wines on the spot. All that’s on offer

will be a welcome gift to anyone with a keen eye on the latest trends.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 255 99 65, www.heconceptstore.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Sun. U­6

Victoria’s Secret This boutique certainly needs no introduction. Even if you know nothing of fashion, you’ve no doubt heard of Victoria’s Secret, the brand that has become synonymous with stylish lingerie and glitzy angelwinged fashion shows. Warsaw, it seems, is delighted to have Poland’s only VS stores, and although previously their only boutiques in the city were on the smaller scale of grand, focusing mainly on accessories & perfumes, the new store in the city centre’s Złote Tarasy shopping mall is much bigger than before (now including Victoria’s Secret PINK), but the opening of Poland’s first VS flagship store in Westfield Arkadia Shopping Mall, with the full selection of clothing, including their lingerie, perfumes and accessories has gone down well with fashion bloggers and Varsovians alike! In Arkadia, you can’t miss it - it’s located right at the front entrance!QC‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 22 445 02 05, www.victoriassecret.pl. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-21:00.

Gifts & Souvenirs E-Manufaktura It’s sometimes hard to find that perfect gift from Poland to take back home with you. We understand the problem, and it may be the case you get home, only to regret not having bought that sweet little tea cup you had your eye on. Now this is why we whole heartedly recommend E-Manufaktura, which is not only a shop in Warsaw, but also an online shop for you to look through an extensive catalogue in the comfort

Sunday Shopping Ban Since 2018 government regulations have increasingly restricted Sunday trading in Poland. In 2020 there are only 7 Sundays in the entire year when shops are allowed to be open. There are some exemptions from the ban, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, openair markets, Żabka convenience stores (most of which close at 23:00) and souvenir shops (oh thank god). Note that the Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep only on those Sundays when trade is allowed. 2021’s remaining shopping Sundays are: Aug 29, Dec 12 & 19.

95

Shopping of your home. From egg cups, plates, bowls, and all other kitchenware you can think of, you’ll find it here!

The famous hand-painted ceramics, Bolesławiec, make up the core of what’s on offer. It doesn’t get more Polish than this. A must use service.QF‑3, ul.

Freta 14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 636 06 84, www.e-manufaktura.com. Open 10:00-18:00.

Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki Of all Polish gifts, none are as visually exciting as Bolesławiec pottery. At Pomaluj.art you not only get the chance to buy gifts, but can join workshops to make your own! You can make and paint anything you want in the studio! The staff speak English and teach you the history of Bolesławiec pottery during your session! Showing the Warsaw In Your Pocket guide/map, you will receive an in store 8% discount!QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 80 01 84, www.pomaluj.art. Open 12:0020:00; closed Sun.

Shopping Malls Designer Outlet Warszawa Probably one of the best-looking outlets we’ve seen in Poland, set inside a collection of buildings evoking the Baroque style of Warsaw’s Old Town. Indeed, this is a premium designer outlet, with the interior specifically made to make you feel like you’re walking through a classy little fashion street. Here you’ll find discounts ranging from 30% to a huge 70% on premium brands like Armani, Boss, Calvin Klein, Guess, Furla, Liu Jo, Michael Kors, Polo Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger through to lifestyle brands Adidas, Geox, Kazar, Levis, Nike, Salewa, Salomon, Timberland, 4F and many more. Found just 30 mins from Warsaw’s city centre, and 20 mins from Warsaw Chopin Airport, it’s easily reached by car and public transport - from the centre, travel south by car along ul. Puławska in the direction of Piaseczno, and by metro to Metro Wilanowska and then buses 709 or 727 onward to stop Energetyczna 01, using a zone 2 ticket.Qul. Puławska 42E, Piaseczno, MWilanowska, tel. (+48) 22 737 31 15, www.designeroutletwarszawa.pl.

Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

Dom Mody KLIF The nationwide Klif chain have long been present in Warsaw, though if you think you’ve seen it all before then think again. Attracting fashion lovers for over 20 years offering a range of Polish and foreign boutiques; but as with all shopping centres, the proof comes in the pudding, i.e. the tenants. Now on show are top tags 96

from MaxMara, Elisabetta Franchi to PennyBlack, as well as Michael Kors, Karl Lagerfeld, Castellani, Trzaska Luxury & Optics and DM Moda as well as well-known and respected mainstream brands such as H&M, Olsen and S’portofino. The draw, other than the brands, is the convenient and easy to get to location - roll in by tram, bus or car. What’s more, this is the only shopping centre to have a concierge point, all for the benefit of the shopper. For true connoisseurs, this year, Klif prepared a unique FASHION STUDIO, where anyone can use the services of stylists.QB‑4, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. (+48) 535 41 14 58, www.klif.pl.

Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Piotr i Paweł open Mon-Sat 08:30-22:00; Sun 09:00-20:00. P­U­L

Elektrownia Powiśle

When Elektrownia Powiśle opened, we can only say we were impressed. The exterior doesn’t look all too big, but once inside you realise it’s much bigger than you’d ever expect! So what’s here? Imagine this as a multifunctional centre, including sooped up shops completely new to Poland (nay, in Central and Eastern Europe even!) such as Urban Outfitters, Levi’s, Weekday, COS, Elementy Wear, Marc O’Polo Denim, Hugo, Balagan, Galilu, Chosen By, 3noi and Converse (to name a few), plenty more boutiques, beauty salons, a top floor event space, as well as 14 ‘gastronomic concepts’ in their food market and restaurants, and 4 bars: Kandela, Centrala, Elektryk in the Food Hall and Juices & Bubbles in the Beauty Hall! You can shop until you drop, then pick yourself up with some great food, all the while being delighted with the look and feel of the place too.QH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com.

Open 10:00-21:00. T­U­6­K­H

Galeria Młociny

Found in the north-western district of Bielany, and easily accessible via metro - being right on the doorstep of the final stop, ‘Metro Młociny Bus, Tram & Metro Station,’ this is Warsaw’s newest shopping mall, and an impressive one at that! With over 200 stores, including Poland’s first Primark, a ‘meet and eat’ dining area in a post-industrial-styled zone (a friendly nod to the area’s importance as a steelworks) containing 50 food and drink venues, a super-modern cinema complex and MK Bowling alley and gym. The topping on the cake is the impressive rooftop terrace where you can enjoy various cultural events such as dances (an homage to the public dances of bygone days in Bielany), shows and concerts. There are also 2000 parking spots here should you choose to drive.

Qul. Zgrupowania AK Kampinos 15, MMłociny, www.galeriamlociny.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

Shopping

PK

PRIVATE KLUB

97