Warsaw In Your Pocket Guide_ Autumn 2021 by Poland In Your Pocket

Maps

Events

Sightseeing

Restaurants

Warsaw

Nightlife

SINCE 1992

No. 119, Autumn 2021

City Guide

The Golden Polish Autumn

p.10

Something’s Brewing at Browary p.14 Wilhelm Sasnal at POLIN

p.19

Shopping

STORES IN WARSAW: Złote Tarasy, Złota 59. Westfield Arkadia, Al. Jana Pawła II 82.

victoriassecret.pl

Contents

Warsaw

Feature Autumn at Łazienki Park (p.36)

Foreword p.6 Features

The Golden Polish Autumn in Warsaw �� p.10 Warsaw Breweries: A cosmopolitan feast ��p.14 Traditional Polish Dishes �� p.68

Events What’s On in Warsaw: Autumn 2021 ��p.16 Such a Landscape: Wilhelm Sasnal at POLIN ��p.19

Transport p.20 Sightseeing

Essential Warsaw �� p.22 Old Town Walking Tour �� p.24 The Royal Route �� p.30 Łazienki Park �� p.36 Wilanów �� p.40 Powiśle Walking Tour �� p.42 Praga �� p.48 Jewish Warsaw �� p.50 Warsaw Uprising �� p.54 Museums �� p.56

Activities & Experiences p.60 Kids & Families p.62 Day Trips from Warsaw p.64 4

The Golden Polish Autumn

p.10

Breakfast & Brunch p.66 Restaurants

New & Featured �� p.70 Fine Dining �� p.72 Casual Dining ��p.76 Vegan & Vegetarian �� p.80 Food Markets �� p.82

Nightlife

New & Featured �� p.85 Bars �� p.86 Clubs �� p.90 Adult Entertainment �� p.93

Shopping p.94

Maps

City Centre Map ��p.7 City Map ��p.8 Old Town Map �� p.25 Royal Route Map �� p.31 Łazienki Map �� p.36 Wilanów Map �� p.41 Powiśle Map �� p.43 Praga Map �� p.48

Foreword It is with a bit of trepidation that we enter this particular autumn.The reason? You’re probably sick of hearing about it - it’s our good old pal SARS-CoV-2. While the numbers of vaccinated folks are up, and the summer has been nearly as carefree as in the ‘before times’, we can’t be quite sure what’s in store as the temperatures drop. But call us optimists - we’re sending this guide off to the printing presses hoping that you’ll be able to take advantage of the best that Warsaw has to offer, whether you’re traveling here for business, pleasure or overwintering in the Polish capital as an expat. In this issue, we’ll share with you how to make the most of the ‘golden Polish autumn’ (p.10), point you in the direction of the city’s newest post-industrial draw, Browary Warszawskie (p.14) and suggest some of the best upcoming cultural events (p.16), from the legendary and very autumnal Jazz Jamboree festival (p.16) to the Warsaw Jewish Film Festival (p.17). Got any questions or concerns? Feel free to shoot us an email at poland@inyourpocket.com or find us on Facebook and Instagram. Stay safe and enjoy! Born in Upper Silesia, Janina Krzysiak spent her formative years outside of Philly, PA, before moving back to Poland to indulge her love for cheap air travel, walkable cities, and Eastern European nostalgia. She also happens to be a card-carrying jesieniara. Not sure what that means? Turn to p.10.

Cover Story Siekierkowski Bridge, southwest of Warsaw’s city centre, was completed and opened in 2002. It crosses the Vistula RIver and connects the districts of Mokotów and Wawer. During Autumn, the forest embankments turn a wonderful golden red! Photo by udmurd / Adobestock.

Publisher & Staff Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 15,000 copies published every 2 months Writer & Editor: Janina Krzysiak Sales Consultant: Jarek Śliwiński (+48) 606 749 643 Events & Marketing: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 879 494 Research: Joanna Jakubiec, Klaudia Lancewicz Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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The Golden Polish Autumn in Warsaw Chopin is enjoying autumn in Łazienki Park (p.36), and you should be, too | © Adobestock

Ah, fall. A chill in the air, brilliantly-coloured leaves, an abundance of apples and pumpkins. A season that has inspired painters, poets and legions of self-proclaimed ‘basic bitches’. Poland has no shortage of such female autumn enthusiasts, who have recently coined a term for themselves: jesieniary, from the Polish word for autumn, jesień. Of course, lads can like fall too, and the male equivalent of jesieniara is jesieniarz. The attributes of jesieniary and jesieniarze are similar to what folks enjoy elsewhere in the West: pumpkin spice lattes, chunky sweaters, curling up under a blanket while appropriately autumnal jazz plays in the background. But fall in Poland comes with some more unusual activities, which were part of celebrating the season long before the jesieniary trend was making the rounds on social media. Here, autumn can hardly be considered complete without hunting for forest mushrooms, cooking plum preserves and connecting with Slavic forefathers by visiting the dead on All Saints’ Day and All Souls Day.

THE AMBIENCE Poles are proud of what they call the ‘Golden Polish Autumn’ (złota polska jesień) - a period of sunny and warm weather which often coincides with leaves changing colours. If you’re lucky enough to be here during this phenomenon, it’s off to the leafiest parts of town: its many parks, like Łazienki (p.36), Pole Mokotowskie (F-11/12), Skaryszewski Park (L-5/6), Wilanów Park and Gardens (p.40) or the sprawling Kampinos Forest National Park (p.65) on Warsaw outskirts. This is also a great time to take in the sweeping panoramas offered by Warsaw’s viewpoints. For something free and close to the Old Town, walk on over the oh-so-appealing sounding Dung Hill (p.29) and the surprising city garden atop the University Library (p.45). If you’re willing to shell out a few złoty, the belltower of St. Anne’s Church (p.30) and the viewing terrace on the 30th floor of the Palace of Culture and Science (p.23) will let you see far across the town. Got a bit more time? Sunny autumn days are perfect for a day trip or two. How about a visit to the birthplace of Polish great Fryderyk Chopin (p.65), Żelazowa Wola, or the 19th century Modlin Fortress (p.65)?

The Golden Polish Autumn in Warsaw

THE FOOD Fall is mushroom season, period. Now, hunting for wild forest mushrooms is a popular activity across much of central and eastern Europe, from Germany to Russia, but it’s difficult to overstate how much Poles like their mushrooms. The country has been the world’s top mushroom exporter since 2007, and come fall, Poles head to forests en masse, baskets in hand, to hunt for their favourite edible fungi. According to the Polish Centre for Public Opinion Research some 77% of Poles have been mushroom picking at least once in their lifetime, and over 40% seem go at least semi-regularly. There is a lot to choose from: Polish forests are a treasure trove of mushroom species, with over 1000 edible varieties (and many poisonous ones). Highly skilled mushroom pickers can usually positively identify some 40 edible species. Favourites include the stately porcini mushrooms, slippery jacks, saffron milk cups, bay boletes and brightly yellow chanterelles, which pair nicely with scrambled eggs. Once picked, the mushrooms can be dried, marinated in vinegar or immediately find their way into homecooked meals. Unsurprisingly, forest mushrooms feature in many traditional Polish dishes (p.68), often paired with cabbage. Some prominent examples are bigos, mushroom soup and mushroom sauce, pierogi with cabbage and mushrooms and gołąbki with mushrooms and buckwheat.

Hot Beer? Though the Polish winter is famous for being long and brutal, fear not, the Poles have a method for taking the bite out of this blustery season, and as you can probably guess - it’s alcohol (congratulations, Kowalski). For those in need of a warm-up that wince at the thought of vodka, we have two words for you: hot beer, or ‘grzane piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas present, and others still an utter profanity. Regardless, it’s a necessary invention and a must-try (at least once) for anyone travelling in PL during the winter months. Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ - or mulled wine - as you’ll notice by the outdoor stands selling cups of it during the holiday season. Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...and Na zdrowie! More botanically-inclined Poles also take advantage of other seasonal offerings, making herbal teas, pickles, jams and strong alcoholic infusions called nalewki, which they insist have medicinal properties. Nalewki can be made from almost anything, and popular autumnal choices are the vividly-coloured berries of rowan, hawthorn, dogwood and sea-buckthorn trees and shrubs. These berries are picked, cleaned, submerged in watered-down rectified alcohol with a good helping of sugar, and left to ferment. While this is mostly a domestic endeavour, you might be able to find nalewki in some Warsaw bars, and we would encourage you to give them a try. The same types of berries, as well as rosehips and all manner of late-summer fruit can be turned into jams, but there is only one star in the Polish pantry: powidła śliwkowe, plum preserves. This very dark, sweet, aromatic substance is usually made in late September from ripe Moyer plums and nothing else, with the fruit traditionally simmered for a few hours at a time over the course of three days. Poles love having some powidła on fresh bread or crepes, and we highly recommend picking up a jar at a grocery store. 11

The Golden Polish Autumn in Warsaw Just over a week later, on November 11th, the somber atmosphere can be continued at Poland’s most important non-religious holiday: Independence Day. No, no hot dogs or fireworks here; this country prefers to celebrate their return to the European stage after 123 of partitions with stony-faced military parades, lofty speeches, and marches, which - sadly - have been largely hijacked by flare-toting nationalists in recent years, particularly in Warsaw. Luckily, there are also more uplifting events to take part in, such as the annual Independence Run and Independence Day concerts. All Saints’ Day lights

THE HOLIDAYS September and October are usually a flurry of outdoor activities, enjoying the gorgeous foliage and harvest bounty. However, the approach of November is when Poland starts to careen precariously into darkness and cold and Poles return to their typical melancholy state. Luckily, this is also when the fall holidays start to pop up. First, a Western import: Halloween. While not celebrated with even a fraction of the gusto and relish of Anglo-Saxon countries, in large cities this has become a welcome chance to put up a few creepy decorations, switch on a horror flick or party it up at a themed club night. It also massively annoys the Roman Catholic Church, which still holds considerable sway with the Polish population. Every year, squabbles break out between religious hardliners denouncing the ‘demonic, pagan’ holiday and those who enjoy carved pumpkins and a good slasher. Ironically enough, the next two days - November 1st and 2nd - are dedicated to pagan-root holidays which almost everyone in Poland can get behind: All Saints’ Day and All Souls Day. These officially Roman Catholic holidays have taken over from the Slavic Dziady (Forefathers or Forefathers’ Eve), an occasion on which the living would prepare an elaborate feast for departed ancestors. Places were set at the table for the ancestors and fires were often lit on the road showing them the way to the house. In this day and age, virtually everyone in Poland heads to the cemeteries to light candles and lay chrysanthemums on graves of relatives or important members of the community. As night descends, the country’s graveyards and memorial spots are aglow with the warm light of literally thousands of flickering candles, creating an eerie, incredibly evocative atmosphere that should not be missed by anyone with a heart that still beats. If you’re in Warsaw around this time, a stroll around one of the city’s cemeteries - for example Powązki, where many famous Poles have been laid to rest - is an absolute must. 12

The month is wrapped up with Andrzejki (Saint Andrew’s Eve), an evening of fortune-telling. The traditions of this holiday date back to at least 1557, when it was first mentioned in writing. Originally, the fortune-telling was done exclusively by women, and exclusively in order to glimpse their future matrimonial situation - it was also a very serious deal. In the centuries since, it has evolved into lighthearted and ungendered fun, and is now typically done for a laugh with friends or used as another excuse to party, especially among college students. This, of course, is in addition to the many cultural events which fill up Warsaw’s calendar each year (barring a global pandemic). To see what’s in store this year, check out our ‘What’s On’ section starting on p.16.

Spectacular colours at Łazienki Park (p.36)

The Golden Polish Autumn in Warsaw

Adding the finishing touch to sashimi in Japonka.

Warsaw Breweries A cosmopolitan feast Transforming post-industrial complexes into vibrant gastronomy and nightlife hubs has been all the rage in recent years, and now Warsaw has added a new gem to the list: Browary Warszawskie, the Warsaw Breweries. This sprawling site (C-7), revamped and filled with plantlife, houses numerous cafes, bars and contemporary food concepts with eats from around the globe. Here you’ll find treats ranging from Balkan barbecue and Neapolitan street food to warm pączki and freshly-brewed craft beer.

Ragamuffins to riches The history of this behemoth of a brewery dates back to 1846, when Błażej Haberbusch, Konstanty Schiele and Jan Henryk Klawe (AKA ‘Ragamuffin, Rascal and Gimp’) came together to start a new business venture. Their original product was dark Bavarian-style beer, and their knack for advertising and setting up beer gardens helped the business grow at a steady pace. In 1865 Klawe decided to leave the enterprise, and the brewery was renamed ‘Haberbusch and Schiele’ - a name it would retain for over a century. By 1911, H&S was the largest 14

brewery in the Russian part of partitioned Poland, producing over 8 million bottles of beer per year. During WWII, the brewery was decimated, and then swiftly nationalized when the communists took over. In the postwar years, production merely ambled along, and beer brewing was supplemented by bottling Coca-Cola under American license in the 1970s. In 2004, the site was abandoned and proceeded to crumble away until an investor saw its postindustrial potential and decided to snatch it up.

Craft beer, cultured eats & hip vibes Now restored to their former glory and adapted for modern use, autumn 2021 marks the moment that the historic Browary Warszawskie buildings are ready to fully open to the public. In addition to green spaces, offices, apartments and assorted service points like a surprisingly elegant drop-off laundry, fitness club, barbershop and hairdressers, the complex offers lots of good eats and good alcohol. The brewing tradition is continued at the Warsaw Brewery (Browar

Browary Warszawskie Warszawski), which is just one part of the Breweries complex. Here, brewmasters are preparing eighteen types of craft beer, including their takes on traditional Grodziskie and porter styles, which used to be brewed at H&S back in the day. These talented lads even snagged two awards at the 2021 Chmielaki Krasnostawskie beer festival, landing in second place in the American pale ale and stout categories. The beer is accompanied by food inspired by the culinary traditions of pre-WWII Warsaw and Lviv, reimagined for the 21st century with international accents. Many of the dishes are prepared in a signature Josper charcoal oven. The nerve centre of Browary is the Food Hall, a large space inside vaulted, brick-walled lagering cellars. The Hall is capable of seating up to 300 merrymakers, who can choose from eleven contemporary food concepts, or mix and match as they please. Among the offerings are Silk & Spicy’s authentic Thai cuisine; panozzo sandwiches at ‘a’Panu occo?!’, a new venture by Dziurka od Klucza; a profusion of herring dishes at S’poke & Śledzie; Vietnamese spring rolls by VietNEM; FALLA’s veggie wraps and hummus; pasta, pizza and seafood at Octo; Japanese broths at ökarimå Ramen; nostalgic, pre-WWII Varsovian cuisine by Jasna Sprawa; and high-quality dishes from self-explanatory eateries The Seafood Bar, The Sushi and Boston Burger. The focal point of the Hall is the Central Bar, where you can imbibe craft beer, fine wine and fancy cocktails. Across from the Food Hall, you’ll find a visual treat: a colourful staircase mural designed by Polish artist Dawid Ryski, portraying social life at Browary. What else will you find in this hip district? What won’t you might be the more appropriate question. Start the day at the artisanal Bakery Browary Warszawskie with one of their signature ‘cruffins’ (yes, that’s a cross between a croissant and a muffin), at Vita Cafe with a pączek (that’s a traditional Polish doughnut), or with coffee at one of two well-loved Polish franchises ETNO Cafe or dobro&dobro, the latter of which also offers a host of unusual drinks like sea-buckthorn tea and mango matcha lattes. When it comes to coffee and sweets, visit Deseo Patisserie & Chocolaterie a luxury confectionery concocting toothsome cakes and desserts. For lunch and dinner, try Neapolitan pizza and handmade pasta at Pizza Lecentano, interwar Varsovian dishes at Gastronomja, delicious Indian cuisine at Bombaj Masala, Balkan grilled meats at Munja, Greek-holiday favourites at Mykonos or assorted Mediterranean eats at Olivos. Catching up with your pals? The Sobremesa Tapas Bar is a safe bet for

Getting there Browary Warszawskie can be found just west of the city centre between Grzybowska, Wronia and Krochmalna streets. The official address is ul. Grzybowska 58. The easiest way to get there is by car/taxi, and parking is available if you have your own vehicle. Warsaw public transport also provides numerous options that will drop you off only minutes away. By tram, take numbers 1, 9, 14, 22, 24 or 25 to ‘Muzeum Powstania Warszawskiego’ (Warsaw Rising Museum). By bus, number 157 drops you off at ‘Mennica’ or take number 106 to ‘Wronia’. By Metro, take the M2 line to ‘Ronda Dazyńskiego’ (‘Księcia Janusza’ westward direction), exiting onto Towarowa Street and turning left towards Grzybowska Street. Use warszawa.jakdojade.pl to find the best route from your location and get up-to-date public transport times. nearly any friend group, while NINE’s Restaurant & Sports Bar, owned by Polish football superstar Robert Lewandowski (sporting number 9 on the national team), is sure to appeal to sports enthusiasts. To impress a date, we would opt for the ‘cool casual’ sushi and sashimi bar Japonka, a bottle of red at Le Paradox wine bar or oysters at Port Royal. Lastly, for late night weekend shenanigans with the lads, it’s probably best off to Baila Show & Dining (reservations required). Want to take some deliciousness with you? Browary also has several delicatessens, where you can purchase high-quality Mediterranean ingredients (Piccola Italia and Mediterraneo), grass-fed beef (Crazy Butcher), fresh seafood (Portside), sushi to go (Japonki Sushi) and all sorts of Asian foodstuffs (Azjatka).

A queue of fresh craft beers from the revamped Browar Warszawski.

Events | What’s On in Warsaw: Autumn 2021

What's On in Warsaw Alebrijes: Mexico Made in Poland

Events by date 09.10 - 27.02 » Wilanów Royal Garden of Light To bring a little cheer to cold autumn and winter evenings (and some appeal to an otherwise grey garden), the Wilanów Palace (p.41) has turned the outdoor premises into a special Royal Garden filled with thousands of colourful diodes, mimicking the baroque shapes of plants. One of Warsaw’s most beloved holiday traditions, almost every local family turns out at some point during the season to see these festive illuminations. On Fri, Sat and Sun evenings, there are shows using 3D projections onto the palace facade. Note that the last entrance is at 20:30.QP‑2, Wilanów Palace Museum, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, Tickets Mon-Tue 20/5zł, Fri-Sun 40/10zł; children under 7 free, www.wilanow-palac.pl.

21.10 - 24.10 » Jazz Jamboree One of the oldest jazz festivals in Europe, the first edition of Jazz Jamboree took place in the Warsaw Stodola in 1958, and, over the last 60 years, the festival has hosted all the greats of the genre - Miles Davis, Ray Charles, Thelonious Monk, Dizzy Gillespie, Duke Ellington, Dave Brubeck, Herbie Hancock and many more. The festival has been recently reinvigorated under a new premise 16

- entrusting it to the younger generation under the slogan ‘The Second Wave of Polish Jazz’. Thus, the focus on subsequent line-ups has been on rising stars in Poland, with a great deal of collaboration with foreign greats. Special musical compositions are the goal of these unique partnerships, all of which will be performed and recorded at the festival and are intended to be taken to other events on the international jazz circuit.QF‑12, Stodoła Club, ul. Batorego 10, Tickets from130zł, www.adamiakjazz.pl.

05.11 - 07.11 » Undercity ‘Love, Behave, Rave!’ - this is the motto of Warsaw’s biggest techno event. Undercity takes place over two nights in the Torwar Arena and is known for its extraordinary visuals - Be prepared to be blown away by the music and lights, which have been specifically designed to enhance the already visceral techno experience. Like any good rave, this epic party typically lasts until a very reasonable 8am the next morning, clearly indicating that there’s a lot of fun to be had there! Despite being postponed once, there is no stopping the 2021 edition of Undercity and the line-up features the likes of Boston 168, Elliver, KAS:ST, Marvin Jam, Sam Paganini, Shlømo, Stephanie Sykes and Umwelt.QJ‑10, Torwar Hall, ul. Łazienkowska 6A, Tickets 139-219zł, www.undercity.pl.

What’s On in Warsaw: Autumn 2021 | Events 15.11 - 21.11 » Warsaw Jewish Film Festival The Warsaw Jewish Film Festival will investigate the elements of contemporary Jewish Culture through storytelling and the craft of visual art. The best and newest film productions from the global scale will be featured. During the festival, David’s Camera awards will be presented to the winners of twelve thematic categories, like “best storyline,” or “best documentary.” As of this guide’s publication, we are still awaiting an announcement on the program of films, which never disappoints, so keep an eye on their website: QD‑4, POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał. Ticket prices undecided at press time.

17.11 - 29.11 » Five Flavours Film Festival Sweet, sour, bitter, salty, umami? Contrary to what the title might make you think, this is not a culinary affair, but a film festival with the aim of promoting the wildest and most intriguing productions from the far east. In fact, Five Flavours is the only annual film festival in Poland to present cinema exclusively from all East, South-East and South Asia. Back for its 13th edition in 2021, this year features a long-awaited inclusion for animation - mainly Japanese Anime, of course, but also a selection of Chinese and other productions, all of which are layered in nuance and themes for both children and adult audiences to appreciate. The Festival has brought numerous premiere screenings of stunning new productions, as well as Asian classics and retrospectives of renowned filmmakers. This year will take on a hybrid format, with screenings will be display in Kino Muranów (E-5) and Kinoteka (F-8) from Nov 17-24, with the rest of the program being viewable online from Nov 17-29.QFestival passes 160420 zł, www.piecsmakow.pl.

08.12 18:00 » The Simon & Garfunkel Story Concert This emotion-filled concert transports you to the musical world of the most famous vocal duo of the 60’s. This was the era of Simon and Garfunkel and their popularity has since reached the heights of The Beatles and The Rolling Stones. Their subtle vocal harmonies continue to enchant audiences even today, which is why the group’s fiftieth anniversary in the form of this extraordinary tribute show has been such a hit. Debuting in London’s West End, sold-out venues, standing ovations and enthusiastic reviews have proceeded them, in particular from the BBC, who described the show as “fantastic, authentic and exciting”. The Simon and Garfunkel Story is now taking on the world, and Warsaw is the next stop! Accompanying the band’s greatest hits will be projections of archival photos and films,

Cosmos Disovery Exhibition

helping creating a truly unique and memorable musical event.QJ‑10, Torwar Hall, ul. Łazienkowska 6A, Tickets 250/130zł.

Exhibitions UNTIL 30.11 » Cosmos Discovery Exhibition For the first time ever in Poland, a NASA’s bountiful collection of real spacecraft components, astronautical equipment and lifesize recreations of historic space stations and crafts give visitors the chance to experience the adventure of space travel like never before! From both the American and Russian space programs, some of which Poland has also participated, the mighty artefacts take up more than 3,000m2 of floor space. Most notably, lifesize recreations of landmark spacecrafts, such as the MIR orbital station, the cockpit of the Columbia space shuttle, and Apollo 11, alow visitors to enter and get up close and personal. You can also experience an interactive astronaut training with state-of-the-art 3D technology!QNowa Praga Museum, ul. Jagiellońska 82A, Tickets from 35zł.

27.10 - 05.12 » Alebrijes: Mexico Made in Poland This exhibition takes place every year during All Saints’ Day and All Souls Day in Poland, the European equivalent of the Day of the Dead in Mexico. The rites, in both cultures, related to these celebrations are intended to help people get used to what is both inevitable and mysterious - Death! The sculptures from the Mexican version of this age-old tradition are full of allegories and meanings, featuring out-of-thisworld creatures and other vivid imagery that aims to come to terms with what awaits us on the other side! QF‑6, National Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, Tickets 14/7zł, Thu free (Including the Museum for Children), www.ethnomuseum.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. 17

Events | What’s On in Warsaw: Autumn 2021 UNTIL 16.01 » Political Art

Everyday Forms of Resistance

UNTIL 30.01 » Sayam Ghosh: Jak powraca las Born and raised in Calcutta, photographer Sayam Ghosh has been living in Poland for eight years, during which time he focused his latest body of work on nearby Kampinos Forest area (p.65) and its significant ecological change over the last 60 years. A recreation of the forest on an exceptional scale is the result of in-depth research and a close collaboration between the artist and scientists from Kampinos National Park. The perspective of change is also assisted in the first part of the exhibition by archival photos. The second part is a spatial installation combining a musical piece based on field recordings in the Forest and visualisations of scientific research on the current state of the forest.QGallery Rynek 30, Rynek 32, www.muzeumwarszawy.pl.

UNTIL 21.11 » Everyday Forms of Resistance The result of long-running projects by Palestinian artists and the past four years of travel, research and collaboration between Polish artists and Palestinian communities, this exhibit in collaboration with the Palestinian Embassy familiarises its audience with issues relevant to Palestinians today. ‘Resistance’ in the context of the exhibit is not understood as armed opposition to nagging oppression, but rather as the everyday practice of persistence, hospitality, and memory in the seemingly insignificant, daily rituals of preparing meals, growing plants, singing songs, and rebuilding demolished houses.QI‑10, Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art, ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, Admission 16/8zł to all exhibitions, for two exhibitions 12/6zł, for one exhibition 10/5zł, entrance to project room 5zł, students up to 26 years of age 1zł. Thu free., www.u-jazdowski.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 12:00 21:00. Closed Mon. 18

This large, provocative and controversial exhibit delivers on its simple statement of presenting ‘political art’ from a wide variety of artists, from various countries, touching on a wide variety of issues. Although some would argue that all art is political, these works are overtly so, which challenges the viewer to contemplate when freedom of expression and the tools of dissent ascend to the status of ‘art.’ The works on display conspicuously lack adequate context for the uneducated viewer to understand the politics underlying them. This may allow their artisitic merit to be considered more fairly, but it also exposes the audience to views that some have accused of being racist, fascist, homophobic or propagating disinformation. Although it serves the age-old question of ‘what is art,’ is it justified?QI‑10, Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art, ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, Admission 16/8zł to all exhibitions, for two exhibitions 12/6zł, for one exhibition 10/5zł, entrance to project room 5zł, students up to 26 years of age 1zł. Thu free., www.u-jazdowski.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 24.10 » Praga of the 1970s. Photographs by Albert Krystyniak Over 80 photographs from a larger photo reportage made in the 1970s, have been selected for this exhibition, offering a warts-and-all insight into the Praga district of Warsaw (p.48) and the people that lived there. The photographer Albert Krystyniak, is one such individual, and his creative eye has successfully captured the legacy of a flawed 19th-century city, the lingering damage of wartime, as well as the neglect and makeshift character of the early Polish People’s Republic. QJ‑3, Praga Museum of Warsaw, ul. Targowa 50/52, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 518 34 30, Admission 5/3 zł., www.muzeumpragi.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

08.10 - 31.01 » The NBA Exhibition Presenting the culture, history and lifestyle associated with the NBA (National Basketball Association), this exhibition invites visitors of all ages to enter the world of the NBA. Combining a uniquely rich history with the fascinating present of a generation of incredible players now playing, the exhibition will take fans on a journey through 20 uniquely-themed zones. Guests will have the unique opportunity to take part in interactive fun activities such as VR presentations, take their own photo with Larry O’Brian’s championship trophy, play the latest NBA 2K22 game and much more.QK‑2, Praga Koneser Center, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, Tickets from 30zł.

What’s On in Warsaw: Autumn 2021 | Events

‘Such a Landscape’ Wilhelm Sasnal exhibition at POLIN ‘Pigsty’, Wilhelm Sasnal, 2011; courtesy of the artist and Foksal Gallery Foundation, Warsaw

Born in Tarnów in 1972, Wilhelm Sasnal is Poland’s most successful contemporary visual artist. A painter, illustrator, photographer and filmmaker, Sasnal’s work is included in some of the most important art collections in the world - NYC’s MOMA and Guggenheim, London’s Tate Modern, Paris’ Pompidou. Despite the international acclaim, Sasnal’s work has been rarely shown in his home country; astonishingly, this major exhibition at the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews is the first exhibit of Sasnal’s work in Poland since 2007. As such, it is significant that it touches on Jewish issues - a subject that his art has subtly touched upon, but never been known for. This exhibit teases it out. Growing up in the Polish Catholic tradition at the end of the communist period, Sasnal began studying architecture and then art in Kraków just after the fall of the Berlin wall, and his oeuvre has often explored how the spectre of the communist era remains in the imagination of post-communist society, haunting it with an almost oppressive banality. In this new exhibit collecting work from the past two decades, it is the shadow of the Holocaust - as endemic to Polish identity as the communist era - that stubbornly stands in the corners of the collective Polish consciousness. Drawing inspiration from sources as varied and poignant as a solitary drive past a concentration camp, Art Spiegelman’s depiction of Poles as anthropomorphic pigs in his graphic novel Maus, and the establishment outrage over the Jan Gross’s book about Polish antisemiticism after the Holocaust (Fear), Sasnal observes the mundanity, irony and sensitivity of Polish-Jewish relations in the everyday landscapes - terrestrial, digital and subconscious - of Poland. Although they remain open to interpretation, these works address

the formation of a nation’s identity and the politics of memory, demonstrating to the audience that each of us can create our own reality in this regard. Don’t miss the artist sketchbook that accompanies the exhibition - an essential companion for exploring and understanding the paintings. Found on a rack at the entrance of the exhibit, Sasnal’s notes on each pencil drawing provide a lot of important insight, invaluable for unlocking the meaning and inspirations behind his work. A full schedule of special tours, talks, workshops and other October events organised around the exhibition can also be found online. The exhibition runs until January 10, 2022.QD‑4, POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, Admission 20/15zł, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue.

‘Untitled (Maus 4)’, Wilhelm Sasnal; POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews

Transport

Transport Warsaw is Poland’s most navigable city by far.

Warsaw Metro Tentative construction on a metro system in Warsaw first began in 1938, but World War II stopped its progress and created other priorities for post-war communist authorities Although over 700 metres of tunnels had been carved by 1953, the death of Comrade Stalin saw all works again abandoned. In 1995 - almost 60 years since work first began - the north-south M1 line finally opened, and has steadily grown to 21 stations. The east-west M2 line, intersecting the M1 at Metro Świętokrzyska, opened in 2015 and now consists of 13 stations, with plans for 21 by 2022. Tickets for the Metro are the same as for trams and buses, and can be bought from automated machines outside each station. To reach the platform you must pass through the gates; enter your ticket into the gate to validate it and hang on to the returned ticket until you leave the underground. Q www.metro.waw.pl.

Travelling around Warsaw by bus, metro and tram is efficient, fast and cheap; driving a car through the centre, on the other hand, can be confusing indeed, and the capital is best negotiated on foot, by public transport or taxi. For detailed information about Warsaw’s airports and train stations, visit our website: iyp.me/26ch

Public Transport Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system, as well as a good metro system with the M1 line running north-south and M2 running east-west. Over 1,500 buses operate in and around the city, and run 05:0023:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops. Standardised tickets are valid for use on the metro, buses and trams, and can be bought from machines with instructions in English at all metro stations, and some bus and tram stops. Tickets can also be purchased from machines on the actual buses and trams, where you can pay by card, or using exact change only. A standard single fare costs 4.40zł, or 3.40zł for a 20min ticket. If you’re travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll need a 7zł ticket that covers both zones 1 and 2 (note that the airport is still in Zone 1). Tickets valid for 24 hours, 3 days

Transport and a special ‘weekend’ ticket might also be worth considering. Those over 70 ride for free, as do children up until the end of September of the year they turn 7, but you must have photo ID (those who ride free still need a ticket/’wejściówka’ to get through the gates of the metro - find dispensers next to the gates). Everyone else pays full fare, unless you have an ISIC card which entitles you to a reduced fare (‘ulgowy’ ticket). Once you’re through the electronic gates of the metro, you’re ready to ride. For buses and trams, however, there’s one extra step - validating your ticket immediately once you’re on board in the small ‘kasownik’ boxes on trams and buses. Plain clothes ticket inspectors stalk the lines, dishing out hefty fines for those without valid tickets. They often don’t look very official and you are within your rights to request identification.Qwww.ztm.waw.pl.

Car & Bike Share Traficar Car Share Want your own car, but just for a short while? Download the Traficar app, find an empty vehicle, scan the QR code and you’re in. You can leave the car in any legal parking space within their service zone, and you don’t have to pay for gas! Everything is done through their easy-to-use app (in Polish only). In terms of cost versus a taxi, it comes out about the same, but as an alternative to car rental, Traficar is a wonder. You can rent a vehicle for 24 hours for only 59zł and even drop it off in another city where Traficar operates. As such, this is a great option for day and weekend trips, big shopping trips, or simply picking up friends at the airport. Note that you need to have a valid driver’s license that is recognised in PL.Qwww.traficar.pl.

Veturilo Public Bike Warsaw has cemented its big-city credentials with a fleet of 4,500+ bikes at over 300 stations (including 11 electric bike stations). Veturilo is ridiculously easy: once you’ve registered online and paid the initial 10zł fee, you can visit any of the stations, select your ride, scan the bike’s QR code and you’re off! For standard bikes the first 20mins are free, and from there you pay 1zł for 21-60 minutes, 3zł for the second hour, 5zł for the third, and 7zł for each hour after that up to 12 hours; electric bikes are more expensive. When you’re done, pop your bike back into the stand at any of the stations, or if the stands are full, confirm your return via the station’s machine and use the bike chain to secure it to another bike.Qwww.veturilo.waw.pl. Available from April 1 to November 30.

Useful Transport Tools e-podroznik.pl Travelling around Poland is becoming easier! With a host of services available to ease your travel woes, one of the best is e-podroznik (e-traveller). This is your one stop shop for planning and buying tickets for all major cross-country travel in Poland whether it be by bus or train. You can search timetables and buy tickets online by visiting en.e-podroznik.pl or download their app.

Jakdojade Warsaw’s metro, bus and tram network is incredibly easy to use; and it’s made easier with the skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the Warszawa.jakdojade.pl site and app. The former is a great tool for advance planning, but the app is more practical for figuring out how to get from A to B once you’re out in town. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically), destination, departure time, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there.

Scooter Rental Love them or loathe them, scooters are everywhere across Warsaw, even if the service providers don’t necessarily play by the rules and inform city authorities of their arrival. Now that they’re here, scooters are offered by Bird.co, CityBee.pl, RideHive.com and Li.me, and all you need to do is download their apps, register your personal data and payment details, find their locations via the app, scan the QR code and away you go. Each company has its own pricing policies, so best check their sites for more information. Wherever you go with your scooter, don’t be that guy weaving between people and cars saying ‘sorry, dude!’ to everyone. Once done, park neatly to avoid angering locals.

Uber If you’re already an Uber user (uber.com), you’ll find that the alternative taxi service - whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash, no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage across Warsaw and all of Poland, however there are some drawbacks. Specifically, Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for slightly cheaper rates. 21

Sightseeing | Essential Warsaw

Warsaw Sightseeing In the not-too-distant past, Warsaw was a sea of ruins. From the ashes it arose once more, and being compared to a Phoenix is highly appropriate. Today, Warsaw is a vibrant city, inevitably conscious of its tragic past, but buzzing with confidence, looking to the future. There’s plenty to discover here, so read on to find out more... 22

Essential Warsaw | Sightseeing

9 Essential Sights 1

Old Town Square

A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ of Warsaw’s golden days, the Old Town is also symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the ruins of WWII. See p. 27. 2

Plac Zamkowy

More of a triangle than a square, there isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city than the entrance to the Old Town! A classy location! See p. 25. 3

Łazienki Park

The name Łazienki means 'baths' and is derived from the park’s centrepiece, the Palace on the Island. A great place to sightsee or relax. See p. 36. 4

Wilanów Palace

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century royal palace 10km to the south. See p. 41.

POLIN

1000 years of Jewish history in Poland is chronicled in this excellent museum where the Jewish Ghetto stood during WWII. See p. 51. 6

Copernicus Science Centre

One of the city's top attractions, this fun family science centre also attempts to restate the case for science in a very religious country. See p. 45. 7

Vistula Boulevards

Warsaw's left-bank boulevards are a favourite haunt of the locals - go and see why - walk, ride, or just chill on the riverside steps. Wow. See p. 44. 8

Warsaw Rising Museum

Packed with interactive displays and other exhibits this wonderful museum chronicles the heroics and tragedy of the WWII Warsaw Uprising. See p. 55.

Palace of Culture & Science

Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’ the 237 metre structure takes its inspiration from the capitalist world, namely the Empire State Building. Over 5,000 workers were ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a purpose-built village in Jelonki. Working around the clock, it took them just three years to complete the Palace by 1955. In all 16 died during the construction, though despite the Olympian efforts of the labourers Stalin never lived to see his pet project completed. Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing 3,288 rooms the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just party headquarters but also ‘the people’s castle’. Regardless, the building became an object of hatred and was seen as no more than a symbol of Russian hegemony. Besides the theatres, bars and museums on the ground level, visitors looking to further explore the building can take a tour, but are best directed to the viewing terrace on the 30th floor (Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00). To get there you’ll need a ticket, after which you’ll be shepherded into an old-style lift complete with a lovely lift attendant who has probably been doing the job since the building opened.QE‑8, Pl. Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Open 10:00-20:00. Admission for the viewing level is 20/15zł. You can purchase tickets online. U 23

Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour

The Old Town

Autumn suits the colours of Warsaw’s Old Town, seen in this view down ul. Krzywe Koło.

A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement facades and picturesque plazas, it’s easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaw’s top tourist area. A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ of Warsaw’s golden days when it was one of Europe’s architectural pearls, Warsaw’s Old Town was actually entirely rebuilt after WWII. In the devastating aftermath of the Warsaw Uprising of 1944 (p.54), 85% of Warsaw’s left bank lay in ruin and half of its population had perished. The Old Town was hit with particular Nazi efficiency, and by the time the Red Army rolled across the river it was little more than a smouldering wasteland. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau immediately started carefully reconstructing the historic centre using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs - a painstaking process that would last until 1962. Although what you see in Warsaw’s Old Town today is not strictly ‘original’ per say, the district is a stunning testament of the city’s rise from the ruins of WWII and of Varsovians’ great pride in their city. 24

WALKING TOUR IYP’s Old Town Walking Tour leads you in and around the oldest part of the city, showing you its most important and interesting points, beginning and ending near Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square) - the traditional entrance to the district. The prescribed route covers only about 1.5km. If you’re only interested in the exercise, it could take less than 30mins, but we reckon for most, an exploration of Warsaw’s Old Town will take several hours ‘if done correctly’ - that is, with a couple of short culture, food and coffee/beer breaks. If you have only one day in Warsaw, this is how you should spend it. Make sure you’ve got a full charge on your smartphone or camera, some comfy shoes and off you go.

Full contents online: warsaw.inyourpocket.com

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More a palace than a castle, this building is the pride of Warsaw, reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by now deceased commie buddies such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money came via generous donations from exiled Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the residence of Polish kings, presidents and the seat of parliament. Some of the halls are reputed to be intermittently haunted by a ‘white lady,’ whose appearance portends disaster, according to legend. Those who plonk down for admission will have plenty to see, and although the route is regularly updated, there are core elements that are always available, beginning with the Kings’ apartments and chambers, heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments and maps from the days when the kingdom stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea. The apartments of Prince Józef Poniatowski are also open to the public (though a separate ticket is required, 15/10zł, open Wed, Sat, Sun from 10:00), and a chapel boasts an urn containing the heart of Polish hero and freedom fighter Tadeusz Kościuszko. The Houses of Parliament can also be seen, as can the opulent Great Assembly Hall. The free basement exhibition ‘From Destruction to Reconstruction’ details the castle’s resurrection after

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King Sigismund’s Column

Built in honour of the man who moved the Polish capital from Kraków to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa - this 22m column was erected back in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived, losing only his sword, and was returned to his new perch in 1949. The remains of the original column can be seen nearby beside the Royal Castle.QF‑4.

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Plac Zamkowy

Most visits to the Old Town begin on Plac Zamkowy under King Sigismund’s Column. More of a triangle than a square, there isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city, and not a minute of the day when the steps to the statue aren’t besieged by dating couples, school kids and skateboarders. As you face ahead, the Royal Castle looms to your right and the old defensive city walls of Podwale to the left. A lot happens here, whether it’s a steady flow of locals and tourists out for a walk, protest marches starting or ending, or street performers plying their trade.QF‑4.

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Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing

St. Anne's

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World War II rendered the place a pile of rubble, while the east-wing also contains the Gallery of Paintings, Sculpture & the Decorative Arts, which has works by Rembrandt. Lastly, the newly renovated 2.5h French Baroque Royal Gardens (open daily until 20:00) are also very much worth seeing behind the castle.QG‑4, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamekkrolewski.pl. Open 11:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 30/20zł; kids and students with valid ID 1zł; Wed free. U

Handsome backside of the Royal Castle.

Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour 4

St. John the Baptist Cathedral

Originally built in the 14th century, St John’s is steeped in history. The last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was crowned and eventually buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the May 3rd Constitution inside the building. The crypt holds the bodies of Henryk Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Poland’s first president) and various Mazovian knights. As with most major landmarks, it was the scene of heavy fighting during the Warsaw Uprising and was subsequently left in a heap of ruins before being rebuilt in pseudo-gothic style. On the external wall by the main entrance are fragments of a Borgward IV - a remote-controlled ordnance transporter used by the German army. It’s possible to visit the cathedral crypts Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00 and Sun 15:00-17:00 at a cost of 3/5zł (closed during mass). QF‑4, ul. Świętojańska 8, tel. (+48) 22 831 02 89, www. katedra.mkw.pl. Open 06:00-22:00; Sun 07:00-22:00. 5

Jesuit Church

Built at the behest of King Sigismund III Vasa’s confessor, Piotr Skarga, this lovely little Renaissance church was constructed between 1609 and 1626 for the city’s Jesuit community. Possessing a varied and colourful history, it suffered at the hands of the Swedes in the latter half of the 17th century, who looted its entire contents, and it even spent time as a storehouse during the Partitions. Also known as the Holy Mother of Grace Church after the city’s patron saint, the church was returned to the Jesuits at the end of WWI only to be destroyed by the Germans in 1944. Rebuilt after the war, the church has a few remaining original interior parts - of particular interest is the 17th-century picture of the Holy Mother herself. Resisting the draw of the market square for the time being, instead head down the side alley to ul. Piwna for a glimpse of St. Martin’s Church.QF‑4, ul. Świętojańska 10, tel. (+48) 22 831 16 75, www.laskawa.pl. Open 09:00-15:30; Sun 14:00-15:30. 6

St. Martin’s Church

Founded in 1356 by the Duke of Mazovia Ziemowit and his wife Euphemia, St. Martin’s has been repeatedly reconstructed in the Baroque style. However, following destruction in 1944, the Baroque interior was not rebuilt and now it is largely modern, with the only surviving original element being the partially burned crucifix in the main nave. The church played a part in the resistance movement of the 1970s and 80s where opposition members would gather for meetings, or run for refuge following police actions to disperse protestors. 26

ul. Piwna

As you explore the area, the real beauty of ul. Piwna - aptly named ‘Beer Street’ after the 15th century breweries that once operated here - lies in the details. Check out the elaborate motifs and gargoyles that peer from the facades, including a flock of pigeons on the portal of number 6. Stay on the left flank of the Old Town to check out the area around ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska, once home to a small square used for executions. Nicknamed ‘Piekarka,’ this is where witches and other ne’er-do-wells were burned at the stake, hanged or beheaded.QF‑4, Ul. Piwna 9-11. 7

Jan Kiliński Monument

This huge monument honours Jan Kiliński, a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence; an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment in St. Petersburg. Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally located on Plac Krasińskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful place, before being relocated here in 1959. Kiliński’s comrade and superior Tadeusz Kościuszko himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5; this wide street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the narrow street running at a 90-degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages.QF‑4, ul. Podwale.

Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing The Little Insurgent Monument The communist authorities continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, though by the early 80s cracks in their resolve were beginning to show. In 1983, this most poignant of all Uprising monuments was unveiled by the walls of the Barbican. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by collections undertaken by scouts, the bronze installation shows the figure of a boy soldier clutching a Sten gun and weighed down by an adult-sized helmet. Commemorating the children who served as messengers and frontline troops, the figure is inspired by the story of 13 year old corporal Antek, himself killed in action close to the scene on August 8, 1944.QF‑4, ul. Podwale. 8

Warsaw Barbican

Crowning the set of the medieval defensive walls which once protected the northern entrance to the city, this fearsome rotund structure dates from 1548, built by architect Giovanni Battista Venetian on the site of an earlier gate. Despite its intended use, the Barbican was only ever used in one fighting action when in 1656, during the Swedish deluge, Polish troops attacked to retake the city. In the 18th century, the Barbican was partially demolished with the remains being incorporated into new apartment buildings. It was during the interwar period that restoration work began to return the Barbican to its former glory, but alas, World War II put a hold to works, with it being completely destroyed. Along with the Old Town reconstruction, the fortified wall and Barbican were restored. Today, it serves as a bridge between the Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenage drinkers, buskers and ‘artists’ selling their wares. At this point you’ll find your nose pointing straight down ul. Nowomiejska, which will finally lead you to the heart of the Old Town.QF‑4, Between ul. Rycerska and ul. Podwale. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł.

Warsaw's 'Syrenka' - centrepiece of the Old Town Square.

alefbet26/Adobe Stock

Warsaw Barbican

Old Town Square

Measuring 90 by 73 metres Warsaw’s O ld Town Square (Rynek Starego Miasta) is Warsaw’s defining highlight, lined with richly decorated burgher houses and filled with al fresco diners in the warmer months. Among them you’ll find Warsaw’s oldest restaurant - 11 U Fukiera (Rynek 27, p.75) - which dates back to 1810, and is one of the most exclusive addresses in town. During the 15th century the Old Town Square was home to Warsaw’s Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Today you’ll find a couple of water pumps dating from the 19th century, as well as Warsaw’s best loved monument Syrenka.QF‑4.

‘Syrenka’ - Warsaw Mermaid

The most famous Warsaw mermaid statue, or at least the one which gets the most daily eyeballs on it, is the sculpture on Warsaw’s Old Town Square. This iconic ‘syrenka’ (Polish for mermaid) was designed by Varsovian sculptor Konstanty Hegel and the original sculpture stood sentry on the square from 1855-1928 and then again from 2000-2008 before it had to be removed due to its poor condition. The repaired original was transferred to the Museum of Warsaw and replaced with a copy made by the Jacek Guzera foundry near Kielce.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta. 27

Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour

The buildings of the Museum of Warsaw, cleverly disguised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 13

Museum of Warsaw, Main Branch

Found inside a collection of 11 Old Town tenements, this revamped museum’s stored permanent collection (300,000 items total) consists of three new curated sections: The Things of Warsaw, The Data of Warsaw and The History of the Old Town Houses. All museum items and exhibits are displayed over 21 thematic rooms. Every item has been carefully chosen and many played starring roles in the city’s storied history; also, the majority of the collection was gifted by the citizens of Warsaw after World War 2, hoping to preserve the cultural history of the city. Without doubt, there is plenty here to see and enjoy. The very buildings the museum is located in are a sight to behold. Interestingly, despite severe damage during the war, many of the original aspects of the architecture remained intact and can be viewed during your visit. The museum is a truly amazing and kinaesthetic way of experiencing the events and understanding the processes that formed Warsaw as we know it today. Note, a ticket here also grants entry into the Praga District Museum.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, tel. (+48) 22 277 44 02, www.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Thu, Sat 11:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibit 20/15zł; temporary exhibit 12/7zł; all exhibits 25/18zł; Thu free. U6 14

Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature

Find out about the smart Alec who inspired Romanticism in Poland. As well as having a number of manuscripts and historical artefacts connected 28

with Mickiewicz, the museum also has exhibits connected with other leading Polish writers.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 20, tel. (+48) 22 831 76 91, www.muzeumliteratury.pl. Open 11:00-16:00; Thu 16:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6/5zł; kids and students with valid ID, 1zł; Sun free for permanent exhibit. N 15

World of Illusion

An altogether different museum in the Old Town Market Square (p.27), the World of Illusion is precisely that - a visually exciting and educational experience. Enter the Matrix, a mirror room, a vortex, the room of shadows - it all sounds out-of-this world, and in a sense, it is! There are some outstanding photo opportunities to be had inside, perfect for Instagramers or anyone curious about the extent to which the mind can be tricked by the eye.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. (+48) 501 80 80 06, www.swiatiluzji.pl. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00. Admission 35/27zł. 6 16

Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre

This branch of the Warsaw Museum focuses on the architectural history of the Old Town, its destruction during WWII and the rebuilding efforts thereafter. The museum includes some great interactive multimedia pieces as you walk through the old basements of the building.QF‑4, ul. Brzozowa 11/13, tel. (+48) 22 635 34 02, www.ciz.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Thu, Sat 11:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/7zł; Thu free. U

Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing 17

Gnojna Góra (Dung Hill)

Demonstrating how every word sounds exotic when you don’t know the language, Gnojna Góra may sound like a charming end to your walking tour of the Old Town. And it is, for the views of the River Vistula and the Praga district beyond, but not for the name, which literally translates as Shit Hill (Dung Hill, if you wish to be more polite). For centuries, this was the dumping ground for all of the Old Town’s waste - chamber pots and buckets of rubbish, ahoy! As you can imagine, it grew over time and the distinctive shape can best be seen from the bottom. At one stage it was actually renowned for its healing properties - people with obscene amounts of money would come here to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis (doesn’t work, we’ve tried). From here head back towards the Old Town by walking towards ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city. Finally, conclude your epic walking tour by swerving onto ul. Kanonia.QG‑4, ul. Brzozowa.

The colourful ul. Dawna (G-4) near Gnojna Góra in Old Town 18

Ul. Kanonia Wishing Bell

Once a graveyard, this little square features a cracked cathedral bell dating back to 1646, cast by artisan Daniel Tym (who also made the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column). The bell never rang at the cathedral next to it, but it has developed its own legend: touch the top of the bell and walk its circumference and your wish will come true. Across from the bell is one of the world’s most narrow houses at number 20/22. Also note the covered walkway nearby, which links the Cathedral to the Royal Castle. This was built after a failed assassination attempt on Sigismund III. The King escaped unharmed, but the hapless hitman, Michał Piekarski, found himself skinned alive, stretched by four horses and then chopped into pieces with an axe! You yourself are now within horse-stretching distance of your starting point on Plac Zamkowy. Point your fatigued figure in the direction of Krakowskie Przedmieście and take the path of Kings along The Royal Route next. Cue fanfare!QG‑4, ul. Kanonia.

Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum

Born in Warsaw on November 7, 1867, local lass Maria Skłodowska would become better known to the world as Madame Marie Curie. Located in the recently-renovated building she was born in, this charming museum pays homage to the life and work of the famous two-time Nobel Prizewinning physicist and chemist, whose many accomplishments include the discovery of the chemical element polonium (named after the country of her birth). One of the museum’s five rooms is a recreation of Marie and Pierre Curie’s Parisian laboratory, while another focuses on the Skłodowska family, giving visitors a glimpse into her early life. Among the displays are many personal effects that show a more intimate side of the scienticist, including her private letters, a small collection of her scientific instruments, and the black georgette coat worn during her last stay in Poland in 1932. Of particular interest is an elephant, gifted by US President Herbert Hoover, which Skłodowska-Curie received during her 1929 visit to the White House - the purpose of which was to secure $50,000 for the purchase of a gram of radium for the fledgling Radium Institute in Warsaw. Guides are on hand for tours in English (150zł) and Polish (100zł), and the museum also functions as a cultural institute, organising temporary exhibitions, lectures, meetings with authors and other events; check their online calendar for the latest information.QF‑3, ul. Freta 16, tel. (+48) 22 831 80 92, www.mmsc.waw.pl. Open 12:00-18:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 11/6zł, Tue free. U 29

Sightseeing | The Royal Route

The Royal Route Dawn breaks like a bleeding heart onto ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście.

Warsaw’s famed ‘Royal Route’ links the city’s three Royal residences, starting from the Royal Castle (p.25) on Plac Zamkowy, via Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Island, en route to Wilanów Palace (p.41) in the district of the same name. Covering 11km in length, this main artery through the city takes in a great range of Warsaw’s historic buildings, parks, churches and monuments, making a trek down the ‘path of the Kings’ a ‘must-do’ part of any visit to the city.

WALKING TOUR The heart of the route, along Krakowskie Przedmieście and Nowy Świat, will also lead you past, or more likely into, a grand selection of bars, restaurants and shops. Granted, a few of the further out parts of the route may not be anything to write home about, but it really is worth making the effort in order to visit the beautiful Wilanów Palace, gardens and parkland. We let you know what not to miss, so let’s start at the traditional beginning heading south, or in reverse, heading north if you chose to go to Wilanów first! 30

St. Anne’s Church

St Anne’s survived the war with a few token scratches and a collapsed roof, but what the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished by a team of incompetent builders in 1949 when the thoughtless construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel led to several landslides and huge cracks in the floor of the church, which very nearly crashed to the ground. It took a team of 400 people two weeks of tireless work to stabilise the undersoil and shore up the foundations. Intriguingly, this wasn’t the first time St Anne’s had survived vicious conflict to find disaster around the corner. It escaped destruction during the war with Sweden (1650-1655) only to be gutted by fire two years later, apparently the victim of an arson attack. The classicist façade dates from 1788 and is the design of the royal architect Piotr Aigner. The interior holds even more classicist and rococo details. The viewing tower is one of the best in Warsaw and worth the 147-step climb. One other point of interest concerns a simple wooden cross you will see there. These two planks of wood became the focus of a battle that threatened

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His defining masterpiece, Pan Tadeusz, is a beautifully written epic portraying Polish society in the 19th Novotel century. His statue dominates ul. Krakowskie Centrum Przedmieście, and traces of bullet holes dating from WWII are still visible on the monument.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 21-23, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet.

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Much mystery surrounds his life; his role as a national cultural icon meaning that much of the seamier side of his life has been covered up, including his involvement in strange cults and alleged womanising. To this day, even his birthplace remains a hot source of argument. Some say Nowogródek (Lithuania), others say the nearby Zavosse (Zaosie). A champion of freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak in Turkey, 1855, while recruiting a Polish legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea. Originally buried in Paris, Mickiewicz’s body now lies in Wawel Cathedral, Kraków.

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Adam Mickiewicz Monument

Patriot, poet and the man who inspired Romanticism in Poland, Mickiewicz stands out as Poland’s greatest literary figure - as well as a figure of hope during a bleak age of Russian oppression. His involvement in politics saw him exiled east in 1824 by the ruling Russians, before finally heading to western Europe in 1829. A bid to return to his homeland in 1830 was thwarted at the border, and he never saw his native Poland again.

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to divide the country in the summer of 2010. To Armoury read the story behind that see our online pieceTheon the Presidential Cross: iyp.me/71061.QG‑4, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 91, www.swanna.waw.pl. Open 09:0015:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. No visiting during mass please.

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Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art

Sightseeing | The Royal Route 3

Presidential Palace

Of all the landmarks that line Krakowskie Przedmieście, none is more important than the Presidential Palace that mysterious fenced-off building guarded by stone lions and stern-looking soldiers. Construction began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It then passed into the hands of various aristocratic families, becoming famed for its banquets in the 18th century the most extravagant of which marked the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789; over 2 million PLN was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests.

Visit the church that Fryderyk Chopin attended in his youth by popping into this Baroque beauty. Pride of place goes to the original organ which our man himself played during a part-time stint as a school organist. A plaque outside confirms the Chopin connection: ‘In honour of Fryderyk Chopin, who played on the organ in this church as a pupil of the Warsaw Lyceum in the years 18251826’. Make sure to call ahead and ask about their opening hours as they are subject to change.QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 34, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 692 42 25, www.wizytki. waw.pl. Open 08:30-17:00, Sat 08:30-13:45, 14:3016:00, Sun 13:00-17:00. 5

Presidential Palace

Poniatowski was to prove one of the nation’s finest monarchs and the Constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very grounds, is recognised as Europe’s first such document, and only the second in the world. After 1818 the Palace became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, entertaining many a visiting Tsar before burning down in 1852. Extensively remodelled throughout the course of its history, one of its biggest revamps came at the beginning of the 20th century when one wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918 the Palace was commandeered to serve as home for the Prime Minister, and it amazingly survived both the 1939 Siege of Warsaw and the Warsaw Uprising five years later. It saw more momentous events in 1955 when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO - was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as the official home of the Polish president, which is why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out, and square-jawed soldiers pointing their weapons at anyone who strays too close. Current President Andrzej Duda presently resides in the Palace with his family.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet. 32

Church of the Nuns of the Visitation

The University of Warsaw

Going further, why all of a sudden do you see young, fresh faced kids? Well, you’re in Warsaw University-land. The Uni’s main campus lies behind the grand gateway at ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28. Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as ‘Villa Regia,’ was remodelled and renovated several times before Warsaw U was established here in 1816. Chopin even lived here, with plaques found at the entrance to the campus - look up at the building behind you to see another location he lived in! The uni had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in retaliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the university continued to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar

The famed gates of Warsaw University.

The Royal Route | Sightseeing calmed down enough to rubber stamp the creation of a School of Medicine. Today, with some 48,000 students on the roll call, the university stands out as the largest and arguably best in Poland. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning hack Ryszard Kapuściński, the late president Lech Kaczyński and poet Julian Tuwim. QG‑6, Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, www.en.uw.edu.pl. 6

Fryderyk Chopin

Holy Cross Church

No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw without first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Added to the church in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and then placed behind a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved by Leonardo Marconi. Although this serves as the church’s key draw there are several other features of note to tempt the visitor inside this astonishing Baroque creation. The church’s history originally dates from the 15th century when a small wooden chapel stood on the site. Destroyed during the Swedish Deluge of the 1650s, the church was rebuilt in 1682, with the cornerstone being ceremoniously laid by Prince Jakub, son of King Jan III Sobieski. Designed by the royal architect, Jakub Bellotti, it was completed in 1696 though over time would see numerous additions to its shape. The most notable of these would come in the following century when Józef Fontana added two Baroque crowns to the square-cut twin towers. His son Jakub would later extensively refurbish the façade with Jan Jerzy Plersch adding elaborate decorative touches to the interior. Throughout history the church has played its role in Warsaw’s glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944 the church was painstakingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the heart, eyes and soul. The organ (built in Salzburg in 1925) is the largest in Warsaw, and other points of note include an urn with the remains of Nobel Prize winning author Władysław Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons including poet Juliusz Słowacki and WWII hero Władysław Sikorski.QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl. Open 10:00-11:00, 13:00-16:00; Sun 14:00-16:00.

Chopin Monument in Łazienki Park (p.38). Marcin Chodorowski

Poland’s greatest composer, Fryderyk Chopin (1810-1849) has lent his name to everything from vodka to airports (and even an asteroid). Most sources agree he was born on February 22, 1810, yet some claim his family could be found celebrating his birth on March 1. There’s one thing we can be certain of, however, and that’s his birthplace – the town of Żelazowa Wola (p.65) 50km west of Warsaw. Shortly after the family moved to Warsaw in 1811. By all accounts he was a prodigy from the offing. Fryderyk started learning piano aged four, and by eight had already performed at what is now the Presidential Palace (p.32). He was educated at home for the first 13 years, before attending Warsaw’s Lyceum, and then the Warsaw Music Conservatory from which he graduated in 1829. Within weeks he made a sparkling foreign debut in Vienna, before returning to Poland to perform the premier of his Piano Concerto in F minor. A keen traveller, Chopin set off to play in Vienna in November 1830. Unbeknownst to him, that was to be his last taste of Warsaw. Poland had risen against the ruling Russians. Staying in exile, he settled in playboy Paris where he was welcomed by Polish émigrés, as well as upcoming composers and high society. The 1830s saw an impressively productive spell, composing a series of acclaimed polonaises and mazurkas. The defining point in his life was in 1837 when he met the controversial author George Sand (yes, that’s a woman), which ended badly! Racked with chronic lung problems, broke, ill and broken-hearted, he passed away in Paris aged just 39. Buried in Pere-Lachaise cemetery in Paris, his body was cut open (he was petrified of being buried alive) and his heart interned in Warsaw’s Holy Cross Church (p.33). Our map on p.31 shows sites connected to Chopin along the Royal Route, marked with a musical note .

Sightseeing | The Royal Route

Copernicus monument at the Polish Academy of Sciences 7

Nicolaus Copernicus Monument

The founder of modern astronomy. A sheltered academic, he made his observations a century before the invention of the telescope and without help or guidance. His book De Revolutionibus (1543) posited that the earth rotated on its axis once a day, travelled around the sun once a year, and that man’s place in the cosmos was peripheral. This may seem obvious today, but it was an utterly radical idea at the time. Although astronomers who propagated his ideas were burnt at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no turning back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy. The statue itself was unveiled in 1830 and has seen its fair share of adventure. During WWII the Nazis placed a bronze plaque insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp - a German. In 1942, a boy scout called Alek Dawidowski ducked the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis removed the statue, hid it in Silesia and dynamited a few other surrounding monuments for good measure. The statue was recovered in the years following the war, while Dawidowski has entered Polish folklore as a result of his bravery.QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet. 8

ul. Nowy Świat

Nip across the ul. Świętokrzyska intersection and Krakowskie Przedmieście suddenly becomes the New World! Nowy Świat (New World Street) dates back to medieval times when it was traversed by Kings on their way between Warsaw and Kraków, with the first settlements appearing here in the 17th century. Levelled during WWII, the street found itself rebuilt in uniform neo-classical style, as returning it to its predominantly Art Nouveau pre-war style was unfeasible. Nowy Świat, along with its little off-shoot streets, has long been one of THE places to be seen 34

and is home to numerous shops, bars and eateries ideal pitstops before shoving off to snap a pic of the former home of cult writer and Anglophile Joseph Conrad at no. 45. Drop into the renowned Café Blikle (no. 33), famous for once serving doughnuts to a young and sweet-toothed Charles de Gaulle. Just across the street you will find super trendy ul. Foksal for more gastronomic and drinking opportunities; follow it to its end to see Zamoyski Palace (ul. Foksal 1/2/4), a neo-renaissance pearl designed by Marconi and the scene of a botched assassination attempt on the Russian governor in 1863. Infuriated Cossack troops reacted by launching a piano once tickled by Chopin out the window.QH‑8, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet. 9

The Palm Tree

You might be wondering: what on earth is a giant palm tree doing on the traffic island at the intersection of Nowy Świat and Al. Jerozolimskie? It should come as little surprise that it’s part of a modern art project, titled ‘Greetings from Jerusalem.’ First off, the tree is not actually a tree, but rather a steel column (specially designed so it can bend in the wind), covered with natural bark and leaves made from polyethylene. It’s the work of artist Joanna Rajkowska who, during a trip to Israel, was struck by the brainwave of sticking a palm tree in the Polish capital to give it some sunny cheer (in the most ironic way possible). Continue south along ul. Nowy Świat.QG‑8, Rondo de Gaulle’a, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet. 10

St. Alexander’s Church

The focal point of Plac Trzech Krzyży (Three Crosses Square), St. Alexander’s Church is modelled on the Roman Pantheon, this church boasts a sculpture of Christ that dates from the 18th century. It was here that Allied secret agents met during WWII. Father Jakub Falkowski, parish priest of St. Alexander’s, founded the nearby Institute of Deaf Mutes and the Blind. Continue south along al. Ujazdowskie. QH‑8, Pl. Trzech Krzyży, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 628 53 35, www.swaleksander.pl. Open from dawn till dusk. 11

Ujazdowski Park

Not as grand as the nearby Łazienki Park, it’s still a pleasant place to walk the dog and get up to other typical Sunday pastimes. There are plenty of benches to chill out on, and a play area for the kids. It is also home to Jan Ignacy Paderewski’s monument. The park stands under the imposing shadow of Ujazdowski Castle which was rebuilt in the 1970s; head to the castle which is the final stop of this section of the Royal Route.QI‑10, al. Ujazdowskie 6, MPolitechnika.

The Royal Route | Sightseeing

Ujazdowski Castle and the surrounding parklands in Autumn 12

Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art

A castle has stood on this site since the time of the Masovian Dukes (1300s), but the Ujazdowski Castle we see today was completed in a Baroque style in 1730 for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski (it was his bathhouse that later became the Palace on the Island and gave Łazienki park its name). Ujazdowski survived two centuries before being gutted by fire during WWII: the retreating Nazis actually tried to blow it to pieces. But - as is so often the case - what the Nazis couldn’t do, the communists could, and though the original walls and foundations remained structurally sound, in the 1950s Poland’s communist authorities decided to tear it down. Common sense prevailed however, and the 1970s saw Ujazdowski rebuilt to its original plans. It today plays host to several large halls dedicated to showcasing rotating exhibitions of the very best contemporary art; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, featuring the work of Poland’s leading contemporary artists. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery also houses a very good bookshop and reading room where you can freely peruse a huge collection of albums, magazines and books many of which are in English. There is also a fantastic cinema on site (U-jazdowski Kino) plus a top notch restaurant and café. To continue on the Royal Route, check out the dedicated Łazienki Park (p.36) and Wilanów Palace (p.41) sections.QI‑10, ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, www.u-jazdowski.pl. Open Tue, Wed 11:00-18:00; Thu, Fri 12:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-

19:00; Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 16/8zł to all exhibitions, for two exhibitions 12/6zł, for one exhibition 10/5zł, entrance to project room 5zł, students up to 26 years of age 1zł. Thu free. U

Further On From Plac Trzech Krzyży (H‑8), Warsaw’s ‘royal route’ continues down the Embassy-land of Aleje Ujazdowskie past the Ujazdowskie and Łazienki Parks (H‑10/I-11), down ul. Belwederska (I‑13), ul. Sobieskiego (J‑15) and Aleja Wilanowska to ultimately end at Wilanów Palace - the 17th century private residence of King Jan III Sobieski. While a walking tour of the remaining 10km isn’t realistic, or especially rewarding, Łazienki and Wilanów are both required visits for getting a broader sense of Warsaw’s history and former glory as the grand capital of a vast and wealthy commonwealth stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea. We detail both destinations extensively further on in our Sightseeing section, and though both could occupy the better part of a day on their own, you can also easily continue your tour from the bus stop at the southern end of Pl. Trzy Krzyży. To get to Łazienki Park, simply hop on bus numbers 116, 166, 180 or 195 and get off two stops later at ‘Łazienki Królewskie’. For Wilanów, take bus 116, 180 or E‑2 and get off at ‘Wilanów’ 25mins later. 35

Sightseeing | Łazienki Park

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Podchorążych

Łazienki Park | Sightseeing Anyone who still thinks that Warsaw is a city of concrete and cement has clearly never been to the city’s lung, the incomparable Łazienki Park. Quite simply, this glorious, 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of the jewels in Poland’s crown, which might explain why half of Warsaw chooses to spend its summer Sundays here. Fear not though, for so big is Łazienki that it never gives the impression of being crowded, and even on the busiest of days you will always be able to find a quiet, shady corner somewhere.

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The full/proper name of today’s park is ‘Łazienki Królewskie,’ which means ‘Royal Baths’ and is derived from the park’s centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace on the Island. The palace was originally built in the 17th century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski, owner of the adjacent Ujazdowski Castle and much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski in 1772 and converted into a private residence (thus taking the name Palace on the Island). It was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as a private garden, most of the landscaping being carried out to the designs of Karol Ludwig Agricola and Karol Schultz. Today dotted with many palaces (big and small), summer houses, pavilions, mansions, cafes, restaurants, lakes, a theatre and more, Łazienki offers much to see and to make the most of it you should plan to spend the better part of a day here.

Tickets & Info

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While the park is free to wander and enjoy, Łazienki’s cultural attractions and indoor exhibits require a ticket. To ensure that your pockets don’t fill with litter, there is now only one ticket, available at each site, which provides entry to all of the park’s paid sites, including the Palace on the Island, White House & Orangery, Myślewicki Palace, Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship, Officer Cadets School and the Water Tower. The details of that ticket are listed below and all of these sites also have the same opening hours. Note that the sole exception is the Botanical Garden, which has its own hours and requires a separate ticket.QJ‑11, ul. Agrykola 1, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28, www.lazienkikrolewskie.pl. Park open 05:00-22:00. Indoor attractions open 10:00-16:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Combined ticket for attractions, 40/20zł; kids under 7 free; students under 26, 4zł; Fri free. Audioguide 3zł. Guided tours in English 160zł per groups of up to 10 people.

Temple of Sibyl

Getting To & Around Łazienki Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three main entrances on ‘Al. Ujazdowskie’, including numbers 116, 222 and 503 from the Old Town/Nowy Świat. Bus 108 takes you from ‘Plac Trzech Krzyży’ to stop ‘Agrykola’ on the park’s eastern edge - bus 162 gets you to the same location but from the Praga disctrict at stop Dw. Wileński. From the city centre the easiest way of reaching Łazienki is to take trams 18 and 35 from ‘Centrum’ (or 4 and 10 from ‘Dw. Centralny’) to ‘Pl. Unii Lubelskiej,’ and walk 300 metres along ul. Bagatela to the park’s southern entrance, in front of the Belvedere Palace. Accurate times and routes can be checked online at warsaw.jakdojade.pl. Orientation around the park is relatively easy given the prominent placement of maps and signs - in Polish and English - in key locations. There is also a very good Łazienki complex map (again, in Polish and English) which can be picked up for free from the Palace on the Island. If you enter the park via any of the western entrances on Al. Ujazdowskie, chances are you will end up, willingly or not, via some surprisingly hilly paths set with tall trees, at the vast artificial lake in the park’s centre, straddled by the magnificent Palace on the Island. In doing so however, you risk missing out on a few treasures, such as the Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship, so try to circumnavigate the park instead. 37

Sightseeing | Łazienki Park Chopin Monument & Temple of Sibyl Sculpted by Wacław Szymanowski and unveiled in 1926, this iconic munment depicts Chopin sitting right here in Łazienki, next to a willow tree. The original sculpture was destroyed during WWII, and the one we admire today went up in 1958. Almost hidden in the trees a few metres from Chopin is the astonishing Temple of Sibyl (closed to the public), an 1820s replica Greek Temple built entirely of wood. Look out too for a gaggle of other little buildings near here such as the Hermitage, the Egyptian Temple and the Water Tower.QI‑12, MPolitechnika, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Belvedere Palace

What to See Belvedere Palace

The Belvedere Palace was the residence of Polish presidents from 1918 to 1995 and then once again during the presidency of Bronisław Komorowski from 2010-2015 (Presidents Aleksander Kwaśniewski, Lech Kaczyński and current president Andrzej Duda opted to live in the Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście (p.30)). Built in 1694 and thoroughly remodelled in 1818, the building is off-limits to visitors but an eyeful to behold. For the best views of the palace and some outstanding photo opportunities you should look at it from Al. Ujazdowskie: it is a wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns. QH‑12, ul. Belwederska 56, MPolitechnika.

Myślewicki Palace When in Łazienki Park, make sure you have time for a guided tour of the magnificent, semi-circular and recently restored Myślewicki Palace. The tour lasts about 30 minutes. The palace was the official residence of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski, and is very much ‘as was’ - complete with original murals, furniture and art.QJ‑11.

Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship

Botanical Garden

Very much as advertised, this museum will appeal to any avid horse enthusiast and/or hunter and is worth a quick visit. The museum is located in what are the former Cantonists’ Barracks built 1826–1828 and in the Kubicki Stables dating to 1825–1826. Truth is, you’re either going to love or hate this museum, depending on what your views are about animal care and cruelty. There are over 10,000 exhibit pieces, ranging from hunting arms and accessories to the stuffed animal trophies hunted in Poland, and an exhibition area about the history of horse breeding in the country.QJ‑12.

Part of the University of Warsaw, the gardens have the usual collection of greenhouses with exotic, weird and wonderful species from all over the world, but what brings in the crowds during the summer are the stunning rose gardens just behind the main entrance. A riot of colour when in full bloom the gardens are the preferred subject matter of students from the nearby art college who set up their easels and paints early and stay until the guards kick them out at sunset. Indeed, given such lush scenery, it is tempting to find a bench and do the same. The park is open from April until the end of October. QH‑11, Al. Ujazdowskie 4, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 553 05 11, www.ogrod.uw.edu.pl. Open 10:0017:00; greenhouses open Fri-Sun only. Closed from Nov. Admission 20/10zł (park and greenhouses),12/6zł (park only). Y

Myślewicki Palace

Łazienki Park | Sightseeing

Officer Cadets School In the eastern section of Łazienki near the Palace on the Island stands a large, classical building constructed in a horseshoe plan. Built by King Stanisław Poniatowski as a kitchen, the building was expanded in 1778 (it was deemed too small to serve the king’s need) and eventually morphed into the Infantry Officer Cadets School in 1822. On November 29th 1830, second lieutenant Piotr Wysocki led an uprising, aided by the young men of the school, which led to the November Uprising, a nationwide uprising at the time. Today, there’s little to see inside the building other than the ticket office to visit the park’s other attractions.QJ‑11.

is relieved by a striking central portico, while the southern façade’s deep central recess lies behind a screen of Corinthian columns. Today a museum, almost all of the palace can be visited including the main reception room, Solomon’s Hall, decorated in the most extravagant of Baroque styles with a series of paintings depicting the History of Solomon. They were executed for King Stanisław Augustus in 1791– 93 by Marcello Bacciarelli and depicted the monarch himself as the biblical king. Many of the king’s personal rooms are also open to the public, set in their original context.QI‑11.

Palace on the Island

The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison d’etre. The palace - completed in 1683 to designs by Tylman Gamerski - was originally a bathhouse, converted into a residence in the late 1700s (after being bought by Stanisław August Poniatowski). The palace is built on an artificial island that divides the lake into two parts, and is connected to the surrounding park by two colonnaded bridges. The façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors and are crowned by a balustrade that bears statues of mythological figures. The northern façade Sculptures galore in Łazienki Park

Sightseeing | Wilanów

Wilanów

Another golden sunset, crisp as an autumn apple, sets behind Wilanów Palace. © Drone in Warsaw

It's very easy to visit Warsaw and imagine its history stretches no further than WWII, when the city was effectively wiped from the map of Europe. But that would be to only understand a small part of this city’s history. The nation’s capital has been in Warsaw since the late 16th century and at one time was the centre of the vast Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, a union which lasted over 200 years, stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea (incorporating much of modern day Poland, Ukraine, Belarus and the Baltic States). With so much of pre-war Warsaw destroyed there are few places to experience what this must have been like more than at Wilanow’s palace and gardens. The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century palace which can be found in the Warsaw district of Wilanów, 10km south of the centre. Essential visiting for all who come to soak up the capital’s culture and wish to understand a little more about ancient Poland, Wilanów is more than just a palace – it represents an era from which much has been lost. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings (45 hectares) represent the height of Polish Baroque and is one of Poland’s greatest national treasures. If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend an entire and thoroughly rewarding day here. 40

Wilanów Park & Gardens The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park developed over the centuries according to the particular fancies of its owners. The park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s. Comprising a two-level Baroque garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscape park and the so-called EnglishChinese landscape park, recent revitalisation works and archaeological digs discovered several artefacts, including ceramics dating from the 12th century. QP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow-palac.pl. Open 09:00-16:00; from Nov. open 09:00-15:00. Admission 7/4zł, Thu free.

Lakeside at Wilanów Park in Autumn

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Housed inside the Wilanów Palace’s former indoor riding area, the Poster Museum features two large halls full of wonderful posters from all over the world. At almost 60,000 mesmerising pieces, this is reportedly the largest poster collection to be found anywhere. The museum focuses on the artistic merits of the posters rather than their documentary value and plays host to a cycle of temporary events and exhibitions. As always, check out their website to see what else is happening here!QP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.postermuseum.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł, Tue free.

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Next you’ll find yourself downstairs in the Wilanów Palace Residence, featuring residential rooms, suits of armour, Etruscan vases, magnificent frescoes and even a private chapel. Most impressive are the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife, while the wings house the apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace. Visit the Wilanów Palace website for info about current temporary exhibits and to buy tickets.QP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow-palac.art.pl. Open 10:0016:00; closed Tue, Wed. Admission 35/25zł; Thu free, but the number of visitors is limited (first come, first served). U

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Wilanów Palace Museum The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the palace’s interior, comes in two parts. The first is the upstairs Polish Portrait Gallery - comprising room after room of portraits of the rich and powerful of the 16-19th century. If portraits are your thing you will find this very interesting, though the lack of descriptions is a little frustrating to say the least!

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Located about 10km south of the city centre, Wilanów is best reached by bus or taxi, though the latter costs 35-40zł and essentially takes the same amount of time: 25-35mins. All buses stop directly outside the palace gates at the ‘Wilanów’ stop. From Plac Zamkowy (F-4), Pl. Trzech Krzyży (H-8) or Łazienki Park (H-11) take buses 116 or 180. From Warszawa Centralna train station (E-8) take bus 519. For exact times and routes, check warszawa.jakdojade.pl.

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St. Anne’s Church A church has stood on this site since the 14th century, when the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here, followed by a wooden Gothic version in the 16th century that stood throughout Sobieski’s day. In 1772 the new brick Church of St. Anne was founded by Prince August Adam Czartoryski based on a design by Jan Kotelnicki. Czartoryski’s granddaughter, Aleksandra Lubomirska Potocka, decorated the church with art in the period 1799-1831, the most precious of which is the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary in the main altar. From 1857-1870, Aleksandra’s son August and his wife extended the church based on a Neo-Renaissance design by Henri Marconi, including adding the marvellous dome. In the surrounding gardens you will find terracotta shrines marking the fourteen Stations of the Cross, while the crypt houses the tombs of the Potocki family. The church suffered damage during both world wars and was even used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who looted and damaged it. The church bells dating from 1723 and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people who hid them; today they are housed in the newly built Third Millennium Tower.QO‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 18, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.pl. Open 08:00-17:00; Sat 08:0012:00; Sun 13:00-17:00. 41

Sightseeing | Powiśle Walking Tour

Powiśle: Warsaw’s Riverside Hot Spot A former ticket office turned iconic bar - Warszawa Powiśle!. | Photo: Emilia Niedzwiedzka, unsplash

It might seem like quite a stretch to refer to any part of Warsaw as a hot spot, but the city’s riverside Powiśle district has been blipping on the radar for quite some time, however, in more recent years it’s gone through quite a rapid transformation which hasn’t gone unnoticed by eager travel writers searching for the next best urban gem! The Powiśle of today is a far cry from what it once was - a fairly mundane area nestled between the Royal Route and the Vistula River, full of apartment blocks, factories/warehouses and workshops (often dilapidated), avoided by locals as there was simply nothing interesting to see or do here that warranted rolling down the hill to explore. Fast-forward to today and this is one of the most intriguing parts of Warsaw, containing some fantastic museums, the modernised riverside boulevards, a revamped power station (we’ll get to that later), photo-friendly uni gardens, an iconic train station bar (what?) unique shops, and of course, a gastro and social scene hotbed! It’s time for an explanation for this mish-mash through a brief history lesson (don’t yawn, it’s worth it!). Warsaw University got the ball rolling by relocating its library to its current location on ul. Dobra 56/66 in 1999 and subsequently adding the now popular 42

gardens (including rooftop garden with viewing platform) in 2002. The intelligentsia had officially moved in. But Powiśle was still seen as an area of little interest, the most interesting point being the left-bank riverside boulevards, which were merely cracked concrete slabs covered in weeds, the remnants of a pre-war effort to build a promenade, and subsequently became a favourite haunt of local drunks. Oh, dear. But once city centre rents began sky rocketing, the vanquished found their new home here. Local artists, small cafe and restaurant owners, shop owners, even activists, looking for a near-thecentre area to relocate saw the potential in the leafy riverside district. And so things plodded along for a while, the blips on the radar getting louder with some outstanding gastro venues and nightlife spots popping up; one of the most iconic bars in Warsaw opened here in 2009, the former ticket office of the still functioning train station Warszawa Powiśle - the distinctive modernist shape and its more than Spartan approach to drink/food struck a chord with locals and its popularity continues to this day. And then exciting new plans to build the Copernicus Science Center were announced, resulting in an official

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Royal opening in 2010. This was followed by the opening ski zka Castle ąbrow ląsko-D of the new east-west M2 Metro line in 2015, which Most Ś Scale 1:15 000 plonked a stop in the heart of the district next to 1 cm = 150 m the museum - Centrum Nauki Kopernik! All good 0 100 200 m 1 Źródłow a Ma and done, but arguably the biggest boost to the rien szta Chopin t area’s accessibility was the project to revamp the Point Vistulan Boulevards - the 1st section nearest the Bednarska Old Town was completed in 2015, with the Powiśle section opened in 2017. It was at this same time the Museum of Modern Art on the Vistula moved in to its new location on the river! Now the area was a Karow no longer a little known place to stumble into, but a 2 Karowa unique destination in its own right, easily accessible Warsaw University by metro, full of world class museums, and leisurely Library opportunities on the boulevards for walkers, cyclists, & Gardens Gęsta runners and families with kids. What more could be 4 Wiślana 3 needed? A power station. Yup. Warsaw a w po i L University The district had enough energy to power its Radna popularity, but with all up-and-coming districts, Obo 5 Copernicus Leszczyńska źna there is always the threat of gentrification, and Science Centre plans were set in motion to revamp the former 6 power station Elektrownia Powiśle. The 100+ year rzyski Elektrownia więtok Bar Powiśle old building functioned right up until its closure Most Ś tosz ew 7 i in 2001, lying in a sorry state until it was bought up ajęcza M2 Z by investor Tristan Capital Partners with a plan to Centrum Nauki Kopernik turn it into a multifunctional centre withOrd shops, ynacka gastro points and event space, to name a few. The big opening occurred in May 2020 and is settling in nicely into the district’s unique atmosphere. Whereas a look mixed between 18th century buildings in the o ulik the alternative Praga district across the river is Praga district while also incorporating a socialist Sm also slowly being gentrified, there are enough local realist element. When it was unveiled in 1949, it shops and initiatives in both districts to maintain a became the first housing complex to be completed in truly local vibe, despite being coupled next to luxury post-war Warsaw. Lying between ul. Bednarska and apartments and investments. The hope is the cultural ul. Dobra, the picturesque neighbourhood is full of venues, the public spaces and unique gastro and small parks and winding streets and provides a leafy nightlife venues will hopefully continue to provide an retreat from the crowds just a short distance away organic atmosphere to the area. from the heart of the Old Town. In previous centuries, Mariensztat was notorious POWIŚLE WALKING TOUR for its bordellos and bare-knuckle boxing matches, and its main square was once the home of a 1 Mariensztat bustling market in the area’s main square, which Cut off from the rest of the Old Town by the intersecting was enlarged to its current size in 1865. The area’s Trasa W-Z, the Mariensztat area, the northern-most role as a market is commemorated with a statue by part of Powiśle, has its origins in the 18th century Barbara Zbrożyna of a woman with a chicken and when nobleman Eustachy Potocki married Maria a basket selling goods, found on ul. Sowa 4. Today, Kątska and received the land as part of Maria’s dowry. although it looks a little sleepy, Mariensztat ranks as The area was built in 1762 and named after his wife, one of Warsaw’s most engaging districts, and the with the latter part of the name ‘stadt’ (changed to main square contains a water fountain, and in the ‘sztat’ after World War II) being added to appease the corner, a Sgraffito (wall decor) by Zofia CzarneckaSaxon king of Poland at the time, King Augustus III. Kowalska and Jan Sokołowski showing a colourful Completely destroyed during the Warsaw Uprising, clock. After your quick walk through Mariesztat, it was rebuilt after the war using a totally different head down to the riverside boulevards.QG‑4/5, ul. street plan; the architectural design aimed to evoke Mariensztat, MRatusz Arsenał. Kozia

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Sightseeing | Powiśle Walking Tour

Copernicus Science Center and the Vistula Boulevards in Powiśle getting a sunset glow-up. 2

Wisła River Boulevards

Once you’re down by the river, you’ll notice that Warsaw sure has scrubbed up its riverside pretty nicely in the last few years. Here’s the unique part about Warsaw’s riverfront - the west side (the left bank) has concrete boulevards (Bulwary Wiślane) with bars and cafes dotted around in summer, while the right side of the river remains wild providing a unique contrast. Warsaw can now say its riverside boulevard is one of the best in Europe, if not the world; comparable to that of the Thames, the Seine and the Tiber (the then Mayor’s words!). Gradually completed in phases, first started at the turn of the 20 century, then enlarged in the late 1930s and 1970s, in 2013 a plan to modernise the boulevards was hatched, and the first section of the revamped boulevards was opened in 2015, followed by further extensions in Jun and Aug 2017, with the latest linking section reopened in Mar 2019. The new sections are filled with recreational spots. Walk along and enjoy the sights as you head south to the new few destinations, al bunched up fairly close together! First stop, it’s back to the library!QH‑5, Generała George’a Smitha Pattona, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik. 44

Museum of Modern Art on the Vistula

The first ‘white block’ building you’ll see o nthe boulevards. The Museum on the Vistula is an exhibition space, an addition to the Museum of Modern Art (Muzeum Sztuki Nowoczesnej - headquartered in the city centre on ul. Pańska 3) right on the river’s edge, which will house the majority of the museum’s exhibitions until the new headquarters is built. Opened to the public in March 2017, the building was designed by Austrian architect Adolf Krischanitz, and between 200810, was used by the Berlin based Kunsthalle Art Gallery. Now, the building has been provided free of charge to MoMA by the Viennese ThyssenBornermisza Art Contemporary foundation. Very kind of them. Check out MoMA’s site for current/future exhibitions. Next stop, across the street to the watch tower...QH‑5, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 40 10, www.artmuseum.pl. Open 12:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 5/2zł, children under 7 enter free.

Powiśle Walking Tour | Sightseeing 4

Warsaw University Library Rooftop Gardens

Traditionally speaking rooftops are the preserve of chimney sweeps, burglars and Santa, but take a trip down to the Warsaw University Library building and that opinion will quickly change. Topping off the bizarre oxidised green building is one of Warsaw’s best-kept secrets; a two level rooftop garden filled with bridges, streams, pathways, sculptures and plant life that covers an entire hectare. There’s even a fishpond (yep, that’s probably a duck you’ve spotted doing laps) and a stone fountain mixed in among greenery like oak trees and Japanese spirea. Designed by Irena Bajerska and opened back in 2002, the garden and viewing platforms afford panoramic views of lower Warsaw including the river, the Copernicus Centre and across the river to the PGE National Stadium in Praga. A wonderful place to stop and rest in the heart of the city, take a picnic and sit amongst the groups of students taking time out from studying (ahem, napping) at the library below. Easily one of the best places in town to get on bended knee and ooze some serious schmooze should that be your wish. Now skip over to the next building for some science based learning!QH‑5, ul. Dobra 56/66, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, www.buw.uw.edu.pl. Open 08:00-18:00. Library open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00, Sun 15:00-20:00. Admission free.

Copernicus Science Centre

A rare example of EU funding being used in a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is the very best science centre in Europe, and one of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions. Not only will you learn an awful lot, but you’ll have a blast doing so. The fun starts as soon as you encounter the museum’s very own ‘Robothespian’ - an interactive humanoid robot - at the front doors, before exploring several hundred hands-on exhibits across two floors that will have you actively pressing buttons, answering quizzes, and even exerting yourself physically. In addition to temporary exhibits and the all-ages ‘Experiment Zone,’ there are zones specially designed for the youngest visitors up to teens and adults. Take part in special workshops, check out the free rooftop garden, and don’t miss the Planetarium (separate opening hours and ticket required), which immerses visitors in 20 million stars, and screens films about natural science and the origins of life on earth. Finishing up, as you head over to Elektrownia Powiśle - the capital’s new epicentre of cool - check out the former Nazi machine gun post (in good condition) on the corner of Wyb. Kościuszkowskie and ul. Leszczyńska. QI‑6, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-19:00; closed Mon. The Planetarium has separate opening hours. Admission 31/21zł; Sat, Sun 33/22zł; planetarium 22/16zł. U

Autumnal views from the vast rooftop gardens of Warsaw University.

Sightseeing | Powiśle Walking Tour

Elektrownia Powiśle

When plans for the new Elektrownia Powiśle all-inone complex were announced a few years ago, we hoped this wouldn’t be another copy+paste effort. When it finally opened in May 2020 after a COVID-19 delay, we can only say we were impressed. The exterior, as impressive as it looks, doesn’t look all too big, which is the first surprise you receive once you go inside - it’s much bigger than you’d ever expect! So what’s here? Imagine this as a multifunctional centre, including sooped up shops completely new to Poland (nay, in Central and Eastern Europe even!) such as Urban Outfitters, Marc O’Polo Denim and Converse (to name a few), plenty more boutiques, beauty salons, a top floor event space, as well as 17 ‘gastronomic concepts’ in their street food market and restaurants, and also 3 bars: Kandela, Centrala and Elektryk! You can shop until you drop, then pick yourself up with some great food, all the while being delighted with the look and feel of the place too. It’s all fairly exciting stuff, but it’s time for a bit of a history lesson to allow you to appreciate the site’s past, and concept of the present and future! Ooh. Elektrownia Powiśle has been around since 1904, its original role being a power station. Things plodded along swimmingly until World War 2 when the station saw heavy fighting during the Warsaw 46

Uprising (p.54) between local insurgents and the Germans due to its strategic advantage. During the Communist era, the power station even had a special unit (which you can see today) that helped power the Palace of Culture and Science (p.23). And so this all lasted until 2001 when the power station was closed, laying empty for years before receiving its new lease of life... What you can experience in Elektrownia Powiśle today has taken 4 years to come to fruition, with original power station elements visible throughout the modernisation. Anyone that loves old postindustrial sites will love the original architectural features on display, but that, of course, is not the sole reason to visit. Remember, the entire site is not yet complete, with luxury apartments and a boutique hotel still being constructed, but it’s quite clear Elektrownia has already become the epicentre of cool in the Powiśle district. We wholly recommend visiting and likewise keeping an eye on any upcoming events via their Facebook profile. Head back over to the boulevards and continue walking south until you pass under the nearby Świętokrzyski Bridge.QH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Open 10:0021:00. TU6KH

Powiśle Walking Tour | Sightseeing 7

‘Syrenka’ - Powiśle Warsaw Mermaid

Possibly the second most famous statue of the city’s symbol. The 2.75m tall bronze monument was created by sculptor Ludwika Nitschowa and unveiled June 29, 1939. Her model was a 23-year-old poet and ethnography student: Krystyna Krahelska, but allegedly Ludwika changed her face slightly as she didn’t want Krystyna to feel intimidated. Considering Warsaw’s wartime destruction, the monument itself was not destroyed, albeit it was slightly damaged, owing to its riverside location. You can choose to continue to walk to Łazienki Park or simply use public transport (metro or bus, p.20) to get back to the more familiar climes of the Royal Route (p.30) and city centre - alternatively, you can walk up ul. Tamka to get to the Fryderyk Chopin Museum (p.56) before getting back to the Royal Route. Along the way you can even spot street art murals and scars on buildings from the 1944 Uprising.QI‑6, Bulwar Bohdana Grzymały-Siedleckiego (near Most Świętokrzyski), MCentrum Nauki Kopernik.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK Now this is where your taste buds will get excited. There are tonnes of venues to choose from on and around ul. Solec, one of the main streets in the area. Some of our favourites include The Cool Cat with its international menu; LAS, which offers a modern take on Polish cuisine; Kawiarnia Kafka for a caffeine break; Kufle i Kapsle, with its wide range of craft beer; and the rooftop restaurant/bar SEN, with its awesome panoramic views of the river. Of course, there’s also the iconic dive bar Warszawa Powiśle. Sticking to the river, there are numerous barges moored up to the boulevards, and food trucks make an appearance near the ever popular Plac Zabaw (actually a bar/ restaurant translated as ‘Play Park’). Elektrownia Powiśle also has a unique lower level ‘food hall’ that features numerous dining establishments resembling street food stalls, but also standalone restaurants and bars. You’ll love them all.

Learn more about Syrenka, the symbol of Warsaw: iyp.me/71466f

Sightseeing | Praga

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Praga: Warsaw’s Alternative District

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Praga | Sightseeing Gritty. Bo-ho. There are a lot of terms being tossed around to describe Praga, the eastern district of Warsaw that hugs the Vistula River. Once regarded as off-limits thanks to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks, today an urban revival makes Praga worth emphasising – especially if you’re interested in getting away from the well-trodden tourist paths of the Old Town and seeing the city’s artsy underbelly. Praga is still years away from becoming hipster-soaked Brooklyn or boho Montmartre, but that’s exactly why now is the time for exploration, before gentrification engulfs the area. The current standard-bearer for cool, folks around here prefer their fun improvised and their bars dark (most of which can be found on or near the district’s main street, ul. Ząbkowska). Filled with murals and hip places to hang out, visitors can easily spend a day checking out the atmosphere and attractions of this alternative district across the river from the Old Town. 1

Praga Museum of Warsaw

Located in the heart of Praga this relatively small museum has stikes the right chord with its interesting and impressive permanent exhibition, which not only covers the complex history of Warsaw’s right bank settlement, but also captures the colourful district in several interactive multimedia exhibits. We recommend exploring every corner of this great museum and it will inevitably encourage you to head out the door and explore Praga itself. For more info about events and upcoming exhibitions, log onto their website.QJ‑3, ul. Targowa 50/52, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 518 34 30, www.muzeumpragi.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Thu, Sat 11:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission for both permanent and temporary exhibitions 12/8zł, permanent alone 10/7zł, temporary exhibitions 5/3zł. Thu free for permanent exhibition. U 2

Praga Koneser Center

Located in what was once the legendary Koneser Vodka Factory (1897-2007), this industrial site lay derelict for years before getting a major revamp. Today the complex consists of 18 buildings over 5 hectares, which includes the Polish Vodka Museum, bars, restaurants, apartments, office and commercial spaces, and even the Warsaw HQ of Uncle Google (he knows everything!). The old brick buildings have been scrubbed up nicely, and mix well with the modern architecture. Well worth exploring.QK‑2, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, www.koneser.eu. Open 12:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00.

Praga’s shining beacon - the PGE National Stadium. 3

Polish Vodka Museum

Located in a former vodka factory, this multimedia museum is now the mainstay of the redeveloped Praga Koneser Centre. Visitied with a live tour guide or audio guide, the experience takes you from the origins of vodka to modern day production methods, showing you plenty of paraphernalia and treating you to a tasting of this strong spirit so deeply tied to Polish history. Polish tours begin on the hour and 20 mins after; English tours are 40 mins after the hour; French, German, Russian and Spanish tours are available by booking in advance. The final tours of the day begin at 19:00 Sun-Thu and 20:00 Fri-Sat.QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 1, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 50, www.muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl. Open 12:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-21:00; closed Mon. Audio guides/standard tours 40zł. L6 4

Neon Museum

Yet another old industrial space turned cultural hub is Soho Factory, the biggest draw of which is no doubt the illuminating (non-pun intended) Neon Museum. The passionate curators of this private museum have collected hundreds of Communist-era neon signs, saving them from oblivion in the process. One of Warsaw’s most photogenic places.QM‑4, ul. Mińska 25, Soho Factory, Building 55, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 665 71 16 35, www.neonmuzeum.org. Open 12:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-17:00. Admission 16/13zł. U

Getting to Praga By far the easiest way to get to Praga is to take the M2 Metro to Dworzec Wileński (eastbound to ‘Trocka’), and you’ll be in the heart of the district. From Warszawa Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the river to the Park Praski stop. If you’re in the Old Town simply walk down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarności and the Stare Miasto stop, taking buses 160 and 190 or trams 13, 20, 23 and 26 to Park Praski. These same buses/trams will return you to Stare Miasto.QI‑3. 49

Sightseeing | Jewish Warsaw

Jewish Warsaw The spectacular wooden synagogue installation at POLIN.

At the time Hitler chose to expand Germany’s territories under the odious excuse of providing ‘living space’ for the German people, Warsaw’s Jewish population numbered 350,000. Neither pogroms nor the occasional boycott of Jewish businesses deterred Jews from settling in the Polish capital and only New York could boast a larger community. Yet within six years Warsaw’s thriving Jewish scene was all but wiped out, with over 90% perishing either in the Warsaw Ghetto or the gas chambers of Treblinka extermination camp. It is estimated that some 15,000 Jews survived the war hiding out on the Aryan side. Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare, Poland was seen as a relative safe haven, and it drew settlers forced into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war years the Jewish population had made significant contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland. Following World War 2, much of the remaining Jewish population chose to emigrate to the U.S., British mandate of Palestine (taking an active part in the creation of Israel) and other parts of the world. Some that remained would be forced out in the 1968 political crisis, the local community bearing the brunt of fallout in relations between Israel and the Soviet Union over the 1967 Six-Day War, and as a result of internal struggles amongst 50

factions of the Polish Communist Party. Today, Warsaw’s Jewish population is estimated to stand around 2,000, however, efforts have been put into honouring the city’s Jewish heritage and reintroducing Jewish culture - most notably the opening of the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews in 2014. Here we list some places connected to the current day community and places worth visiting.

Jewish Historical Institute A chilling recollection of Polish Jewry. This amazing building (which survived the war, but still bears the scars) houses exhibits relating to secular and religious Jewish life in the country from its beginnings to annihilation during WWII and beyond. As well as an excellent bookshop, the institute’s museum, opened in 1948, features temporary exhibitions and a particularly moving permanent exhibition titled ‘What we were unable to shout out to the world’, dedicated to the underground archive of the Warsaw Ghetto and its creators, the Oneg Shabbat group. This is their record. A must see.QE‑5, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl. Open 09:0018:00; Tue 09:00-20:00; Fri 09:00-16:00; Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Sat. Admission 15/10zł. Mon free. ENG Guided tours cost 40zł (400zł for groups of 10+), PL 30zł (300zł for groups of 10+).

Jewish Warsaw | Sightseeing Nożyk Synagogue Built between 1898 and 1902 in a neo-Romanesque style, this was the only Warsaw synagogue to survive the ravages of war. It was fully restored between 1977 and 1983, and is still used by Warsaw’s Jewish community today. You can visit Sun-Thu 11:00-13:00, 14:00-17:00; Fri 11:00-14:00; on Shabbat (Saturdays) and other Jewish holidays the synagogue is closed to visitors.QE‑7, ul. Twarda 6, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 620 43 24, www.warszawa.jewish.org.pl. Admission 10zł. N

POLIN

Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery A beautiful and poignant place to visit. The cemetery was originally founded in 1806 and currently houses around 250,000 tombs. Amongst those buried here are Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto.QB‑5, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.cemetery.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:0017:00; Fri 10:00-15:00; closed Sat. Admission 10zł. N

Plac Grzybowski This delightful square connects the city’s past to its present and unites the worlds of commerce, religion, entertainment and art. The main attraction is the 19th century Renaissance All Saints’ Church. Heavily damaged during the start of WWII, from 1941 it was inside the Warsaw Ghetto. The Parish Priest Fr. Monsignor Marceli Godlewski helped to house Jews in the rectory and assisted several to escape. Joining the square is ul. Próżna, the only full street that survived the Jewish Ghetto. It remained derelict, however, in recent years, one side was restored to its pre-war splendour, while the second side awaits revival. It is here, that the former heart of the Jewish area of Warsaw undergoes a mini-revival in the form of the Singer Jewish Culture Festival, which has taken place every year in late August/early September since 2004.QE‑7, MŚwiętokrzyska.

Plac Grzybowski

One of the best museums in Poland, the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews (to give it its full name) explains a millennium of Polish Jewish history and relations through excellent multimedia displays that earned it the prestigious European Museum of the Year award in 2016. Located in the Muranów district, this area is where the Warsaw Ghetto existed during World War II. The building is a stunning copper and glass structure designed by Finnish architect Rainer Mahlamäki. Each of the eight galleries addresses a different era in the long history of the Jewish people beginning in the forests of Poland of King Mieszko I (960-992), where legend has it the first Jews settled. The permanent exhibition goes on to chart periods where Jews enjoyed freedoms and protections not granted them elsewhere in Europe, eventually arriving at the calamitous events of the 20th century. While the Holocaust is described in detail, the museum’s permanent exhibition is primarily a celebration of a thousand years of Jewish life in Poland. It is an exhaustive and fascinating exhibit, which takes the better part of a day to explore. The temporary exhibits - currently Wilhelm Sasnal: Such a Landscape (p.19) - are also of such quality that they require their own ticket. The museum is home to an excellent canteenstyle restaurant serving traditional Jewish cuisine (kosher dishes available), a café and a Resource Center that features a library dedicated to the history, culture and religion of Polish Jews.QD‑4, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-20:00; closed Tue. Perm. exhibit 30/20zł; temp. exhibit 20/15zł; kids 7-16 and students with valid ID 1zł; Thu free. Audioguide 12zł. All tickets purchasable at www.bilety.polin.pl. U

Sightseeing | Jewish Warsaw

German troops on patrol in the ghetto as buildings burn. | National Archives and Records Administration

The Warsaw Ghetto Uprising Although efforts are in play to revujenate the Jewish community in Warsaw, it’s hard to avoid the subject of why it’s so tiny in comparins to its early 20th century figure. This becomes evident in Warsaw during April/May, during the anniversary of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising. Throughout the city, official commemorations are held, there are discussions in the media about the historical importance of the event, but most importantly, there are symbols of remembrance dotted around the city that citizens of the world visit and pay respect to the people that perished on the streets of Warsaw. The Warsaw Ghetto Uprising of 1943, although inevitably destined to fail, has gone down in history as an act of defiance, an act of protest against the inaction of the world in helping the Jewish people in their plight during the Second World War. This was their time to fight. And so it was to be that from 19 April to 16 May 1943, following years of torment, the fighters of the Warsaw Ghetto rose up, vastly outmatched by the superior numbers and weaponry of the German war machine. The fighters had a simple choice: go quietly and die anyway, facing extermination in a camp, or die fighting, defying the barbaric system which had spread across Europe. Numbering only around 700 fighters, the Germans were stunned on the first day of fighting, losing 12 men while the rest were forced to retreat beyond the walls of the ghetto. 52

The fighters continued their dogged resistance, and though the Germans quickly broke the military organisation of the Jewish fighters, pockets of resistance couldn’t be easily dealt with, so the Germans began to use heavy artillery and even Stuka dive bombers. It was a doomed struggle. Vicious street-tostreet, house-to-house battles ensued, with insurgents often burnt out of their boltholes by flamethrowers and gas. On 8 May, German forces surrounded the principal command post of the rebels on ul. Miła 18 (current day ul. Miła 2, D-3) and though some did escape, rather than face capture, leader Mordechai Anielewicz and his cabal opted for mass suicide. By 16 May the Uprising was over, with German commander Jurgen Stroop announcing, ‘The former Jewish quarter of Warsaw is no longer in existence.’ As a final, symbolic act of Jewish Warsaw’s demise, the Germans blew up the Great Synagogue on ul. Tłomackie (E-5). It is estimated 7,000 Jews and roughly 300 Germans were killed during the Ghetto Uprising. The survivors of the Ghetto liquidation, some 42,000, were transported to the Majdanek concentration camp near Lublin. Very little remains of the former ghetto today, however, to give you an idea of scale, the area consisted of 1/3 the size of the city of Warsaw (mainly the Mirów/Muranów and Wola districts, plus parts of the city centre). Despite the destruction, small parts of the ghetto remain, from buildings that somehow survived destruction (ul. Waliców 14 , D-7) and even fragments of the ghetto wall (ul. Sienna 55, D-8).

Jewish Warsaw | Sightseeing

What to See A Footbridge of Memory

One of the most enduring images of the Warsaw Ghetto is that of the footbridge constructed over ul. Chłodna to connect the large and small Ghettos. Commemorating this today is a pair of metal poles connected via optical fibres which, after the sun sets, project the shape of the footbridge over the road via light. Designed by Tomasz de Tusch-Lec and installed in 2011, the memorial also has viewing windows inside the poles where visitors can flip through images of life in the Warsaw Ghetto. By now you’ve also probably noticed the pavement outline that symbolises the ghetto’s borders, which can be found on the sidewalk as you tromp down ul. Chłodna.QC‑6, Intersection of ul. Chłodna and ul. Żelazna, MRondo ONZ.

Miła 18 Bunker A grass mound and monument now marks the spot from where the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising was lead by the Jewish Combat Organisation, and where many of its fighters, including commander-in-chief Mordechai Anielewicz, are buried. Three weeks after the start of the Uprising, the bunker was discovered

by the Nazis on May 8th, who used tear gas to try and force the command out. Though some were able to escape, the majority chose to ingest poison rather than surrender. Their bodies were never exhumed after 1945 and the site became a war memorial. Located on the corner of ul. Miła 2 and ul. Dubois, due to post-war changes in Warsaw’s urban landscape the site no longer bears the address ‘Miła 18.’QD‑3, ul. Miła 2, MDworzec Gdański.

Ghetto Heroes Monument In the middle of a large, attractive square beside the POLIN Museum, you’ll find the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes, which commemorates the first Warsaw Ghetto Uprising of 1943. Designed by Leon Suzin and sculpted by Nathan Rapoport in 1948, close by stands an earlier memorial tablet to the Ghetto Heroes, also by Suzin, which was unveiled in 1946. Interestingly, stone used in the monument had been brought to Warsaw by the Nazis and was to be used in architectural projects planned for a new Warsaw by Hitler’s architect, Albert Speer. In the square, you’ll also find a statue of Jan Karski, a Polish resistance fighter famed for informing the allies about the existence of Nazi death camps and the systematic destruction of the Warsaw Ghetto.QD‑4, ul. Zamenhofa, MRatusz Arsenał.

Sightseeing | Warsaw Uprising

Warsaw Uprising The Monument to the Warsaw Uprising depicts fighters preparing for battle.

August 1, 1944. Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist hegemony, rose up in rebellion in what would be the largest uprising in the German occupied territories. With German morale in ribbons, a retreat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army on the east bank of the Wisła, no time seemed better than the present. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime military movement a.k.a the Armia Krajowa or AK) launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an independent government. What ensued was an epic 63 day struggle during which the Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler.

17:00 - W-Hour On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski, 5pm signalled W-Hour (‘Wybuch’ standing for outbreak), the time when some 40,000 members of the Home Army would attack key German positions. Warsaw at the time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any numerical supremacy the Poles had was offset by a chronic lack of weapons. Nonetheless the element of surprise caught the Germans off guard, and in spite of heavy losses the Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the Old Town, Prudential Tower and the post office. The first day cost the lives of 2,000 Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag fluttered once more over the capital. 54

Within days German reinforcements poured in, and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. It was to prove a mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, cultural life thrived. Better still, the first allied airdrops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under the command of Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks. Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on the insurgents' side was an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance. Airdrops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate. All hopes rested on the Russians. After six weeks of inaction Red Army Marshal Rokossovsky finally gave the go-ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the river. The operation was a debacle, with heavy casualties and

Warsaw Uprising | Sightseeing no headway made. This single attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaw’s Old Town had become untenable, and a daring escape route was hatched through the sewers running under the city. The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken with glee. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were forced to capitulate, some 63 days after they had taken on the Reich.

Warsaw Rising Museum

The Aftermath Having deposited their weaponry, 11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city. ‘No stone can remain standing,’ warned Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings of importance to Polish culture were dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas were simply burned to the ground. Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around $54bn. In human terms Poland lost much more. With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very foundation a new post-war Poland could build on.

Monument to the Warsaw Uprising It was only with the regime close to collapse that this unconventional, not to say controversial monument was unveiled. Completed in 1989 and designed by Wincenty Kućma, it depicts a group of insurgents in battle, and another faction retreating into the sewers. QE‑4, Pl. Krasińskich, MRatusz Arsenał.

The PW (Polska Walcząca / Poland is Fighting) resistance symbol. Photo: Matt Fahrenholz.

Opened in 2004, this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with interactive displays, photographs, video footage and miscellaneous exhibits it’s a museum that’s guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram power station the 2,000m2 space is split over several levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of the Uprising (provided they don’t make any wrong turns, alas, a common mistake). Start off by learning about life under Nazi rule, your tour accompanied by the background rattle of machine guns, dive bombers and a thumping heartbeat. Different halls focus on the many aspects of the Uprising; walk through a replica radio station, or a covert printing press. The mezzanine level features film detailing the first month of battle, before which visitors get to clamber through a mock sewer. The final sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant display about the destruction of the city; take time to watch the black and white ‘before and after’ shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Nazis as punishment. Near the exit check out the film City of Ruins, a silence-inducing 5 minute 3D aerial ‘film’ which took 2 years to make and used old pictures and new technology to recreate a picture of the desolation of ‘liberated’ Warsaw in March 1945. There is also an exact replica of a B24 Allied plane once used to make supply drops over the besieged city. A viewing platform (open weather permitting) and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this high impact experience. FYI: There are new QR-code triggered videos for the hearing impaired at every exhibition. Please note: opening hours subject to change. QB‑7, ul. Grzybowska 79, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 539 79 05, www.1944.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission 25/20zł (children under 7 free). Sun free. Audioguides in 27 languages 10zł p/person. U 55

Sightseeing | Museums

Museums One of the rooms at the Museum of Warsaw (p.28) | Photo: M. Czechowicz

Warsaw has an impressive selection of museums, and even older establishments are getting facelifts to bring the visitor experience into the 21st century. Without doubt the big four places on your list should be the Warsaw Rising Museum (p.55), which charts the defining period in the history of modern Warsaw; the Copernicus Science Centre (p.45), which is the city’s most interactive and kid-friendly museum; the Chopin Museum (p.56), which is both interesting and another one of Warsaw’s best examples of a modern museum experience; and the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews (p.51), which highlights 1,000 years of Jewish history in Warsaw. Most of the museums listed below present a cycle of temporary exhibitions, details of which can be found in our Culture & Events section on page 16.

Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature See p. 28.

Copernicus Science Centre See p. 45. 56

Fryderyk Chopin Museum Touted as one of the most high-tech in Europe, this museum was opened in 2010 - the 200th anniversary of Chopin’s birth. Over four floors of interactive exhibits, the entire life of Chopin is covered in every aspect. Exhibits include a recreation of his Paris drawing room, the last letter he wrote to his family, dried flowers from his deathbed, his death mask, and even an intriguing section on the women who made the man! In addition to the avalanche of touchscreen multimedia, the museum allows visitors to ‘adapt their trip to their particular circumstances’ by personalising their own route. Your e-card ticket can be swiped at interactive exhibits, allowing you to hear music, stories or watch videos. The number of visitors is restricted, so we suggest reserving tickets in advance via the website. Located in Ostrogski Palace, the building itself is a Warsaw landmark. Originally designed by Tylman van Gameren, in the past it was home to a Napoleonic military hospital, and its catacombs are said to be home of the legendary Golden Duck - a princess charmed by the devil before being transformed. QH‑7, ul. Okólnik 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, www.muzeum.nifc.pl. Open 11:0019:00; closed Mon. Admission 23/14zł; Wed free. U

Museums | Sightseeing Jewish Historical Institute See p. 50.

Katyń Museum

Found in the Warsaw Citadel, the museum documents the shocking events of 1940 when around 22,000 Polish officers were executed by their Soviet captors in the middle of a Russian forest. The museum has a host of objects, documents and personal effects that have been recovered from the site near Smoleńsk, Russia. The artefacts from the victims and a scrolling list of the victims’ names needs no explanation and the multimedia presentation of the extenuating circumstances, the victims’ stories and historical relevancy are well thought out and it’s worth exploring the whole museum.QE‑1, ul. Jana Jeziorańskiego 4 (entrance from Nowomiejska gate), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 261 87 83 42, www. muzeumkatynskie.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission free. Guides available in EN/PL for 60zł. Audioguides available in EN, PL, DE, FR & RU for 10zł. U

Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum See p. 29.

Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship See p. 38.

Museum of Life under Communism If walking around Warsaw’s city centre and admiring the remnants of Poland’s Communist past is not enough for you, why not check out this spot in the centre? Started privately in 2014, this is more than just an exhibit of facts and figures. It’s uniquely presents everyday life as it was during the years of Poland’s Communist rule, including a mock up of a typical PRL era living room! An essential place to visit, especially for younger generations and those who have never lived under such a system! QM‑4, ul. Piękna 28/34 (corner of Plac Konstytucji and ul. Piękna), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 511 04 48 08, www.mzprl.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 12:00-20:00. Admission 20/14zł. Audioguides free on Thu in EN, FR, IT & ESP.

Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre See p. 28.

Palace on the Island See p. 39.

POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews See p. 51.

Polish Army Museum The chronological history of the Polish army is presented in a series of gloomy rooms. Suits of armour, crossbows, muskets, medals and paintings pack this museum, thankfully with English-language explanations, although EN audioguides are also available. The room at the end is dedicated to Poland’s role in WWII, with specific emphasis on the Warsaw Uprising (p.55). Curiously, the best part of the museum is actually free of charge: the outdoor collection of 20th-century weaponry includes an array of tanks, missiles, aircraft and rocket launchers (open all year round).QH‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 52 71, www.muzeumwp.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission 20/10zł, Thu free. N

Polish Vodka Museum See p. 49.

Poster Museum See p. 41.

Praga Museum of Warsaw See p. 49.

Museum of Warsaw See p. 28.

Museum of Modern Art on the Vistula See p. 44.

Neon Museum See p. 49.

Museum of Life under Communism

Sightseeing | Museums Warsaw National Museum

Guided Tours City Sightseeing Warsaw If Warsaw needed proof that it is a major tourist destination surely City Sightseeing is it. 1.5 hour-long tours on familiar red double-decker buses let you take in the major sights. Buy one ticket and hop on/off the bus of your choice, either blue or red line. Buses depart from the Palace of Culture (p.23, Emilii Plater side) and the Old Town ‘Stare Miasto’ bus stop near King Sigismund’s Column (p.25). Commentary available in various languages. See their site for details, routes and timetables. QE‑8, ul. Emilii Plater, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 793 95 79 79, www.city-sightseeing.pl. Open 10:0018:00. Tickets 24hrs 70zł, 48hrs 90zł, 72hrs 100zł. 7-day ticket for Warsaw available for 120zł.

Free Walkative! Tour The experienced locals at Walkative! provide some of the best tours at no cost to you (apart from tips!). Tours are offered in English and Spanish. Book online (new temporary COVID-19 reality!) for tours of The Old Town, Warsaw at War, Jewish Warsaw, Communist Warsaw and Alternative Warsaw.Qtel. (+48) 513 87 58 14, www.freewalkingtour.com.

Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre inter-war building, this museum is a must for anyone visiting the city. Dating from 1862 and operating under its current name since 1916, there’s a huge array of permanent exhibitions and antiquities. Visitors will find a wealth of delightful 15th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings as well as several Botticellis in the Gallery of Old Masters which also includes several galleries of Polish art from the 16th century onwards, with some of the best work by the country’s leading painters like Chełmoński and Matejko. This leads nicely on to the Gallery of 19th Century Art. The Gallery of Polish Design and Professor Kazimierz Michałowski Faras Gallery are the newest spaces to open, the latter holding a rare exhibit of medieval Nubian art from the Nile River Valley. All in all, it’s worth seeing. Make sure to check their website for more info.QH‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 10:0020:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/10zł for the permanent gallery. Tue free. Children and students up to 26 years of age pay 1zł. Purchased tickets 50/35 zł (can be used twice within 7 days). U

Warsaw Rising Museum See p. 55.

Royal Castle

Wilanów Palace Museum

See p. 25.

See p. 41

Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art

World of Illusion See p. 61.

See p. 35.

Zachęta - National Gallery of Art

Fryderyk Chopin Museum (p.56)

One of the leading galleries in Poland, with a focus on the contemporary. It’s located in the centre of Warsaw, just across from the Saxon Garden (F-6). The name of the gallery derives from the Polish word for encouragement and refers to the group that created it: Society for the Encouragement of Fine Arts ( Towarzystwo Zachęty Sztuk Pięknych), created in 1860. The gallery does a fine job in bringing the best in contemporary art from the 20th and 21st centuries to you in a mix of exhibitions.QF‑6, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art.pl. Open 12:00-20:00. Admission 20/10zł, family ticket 25zł, students 2zł. Thu free. U

Museums | Sightseeing

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Activities & Experiences

Activities & Experiences Hey, it doesn’t all have to be exhausting museums and knee-lifts as you explore Poland’s largest city. Check out the local activities below if you’re looking for fun alternatives to traditional sightseeing, ready to try something new, or simply want some rest and relaxation.

Hulakula Leisure Centre A modern indoor entertainment centre for both adults/kids. You can strut your stuff on 28 of their 10-pin bowling alleys or play billiards on 8 LEO Black King tables or enjoy classic arcade games, pinball machines and air hockey tables! There is a soft-toy toddler zone and an indoor playground for older kids! An outdoor grill bar with music/DJ is available.QJ‑4, ul. Jagiellońska 82B, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 669 00 10 01, www.hulakula.com.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00. Prices vary depending on day of the week and hour of day: 1hr of lane time costs 50-140zł. Billiards 29/39zł per hour. U

Stacja Grawitacja Gravity getting you down? Get the bounce back in your step at this huge trampoline park that also features interactive digital games, an indoor ropes course, obstacle course, and even a climbing wall featuring over 100 routes. Put on a pair of anti-slip socks (available for only 5zł, or bring your own) and join the fun. Children ages 3-6 must be accompanied by adults; older kids can be let loose while parents hang out at the well-stocked Gravitation Station cafe.Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 13 06 66, www.stacjagrawitacja.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00.

Thai Bali Spa Thai Bali Spa continue a 2000 year old tradition using Thai and Balinese massage techniques. The skilled masseurs will have you feeling fresh and rejuvenated in no time! Choose from various massages including elements of yoga, stretching, acupressure, Japanese Shiatsu massage and reflexotherapy. Various oils and soothing body cocktails will leave you feeling recharged. Other city locations include ul. Grzybowska 3, ul. Warszawska 8 and ul. Powązkowska 9.QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 48, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 663 55 11 22, www.thaibalispa.pl. Open 12:00-21:00. 60

Activities & Experiences

MK Bowling Entertainment Center The latest entertainment center in town, found inside Galeria Młociny in the northern district of Bielany, 2 mins away from the final stop of the M1 metro line ‘Metro Młociny’. Choose from 12 bowling lanes (6 ppl/lane) and 3 pool tables (COVID-19 limits are in place); all serviced with a bar that dishes out Neapolitan-style pizza. Bowling (59-139zł), Pool (20-35zł) and VR starts at 25zł/15min. Qul. Zgrupowania AK Kampinos 15 (Galeria Młociny, lvl 2), MMłociny, tel. (+48) 600 80 05 56, www.mkbowling.pl/start-warszawa. Open 12:0022:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00.

World of Illusion A strict break from the latter-day stuffiness of the Old Town Square (p.27), this fun, colourful museum is exciting and educational for all ages. Enter the Matrix, a mirror room, a vortex, the room of shadows - it all sounds out-of-this world, and in a sense, it is! Perfect for groups and pairs, make sure your phone is fully charged so you don’t miss these photoops, and go discover the extent to which the mind can be tricked by the eye.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 21, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 501 80 80 06, www.swiatiluzji.pl. Open 12:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00. Admission 33/24zł. 6

Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki Of all Polish gifts, none are as visually exciting as Bolesławiec pottery. At Pomaluj.art you not only get the chance to buy gifts, but can join workshops to make your own! You can make and paint anything you want in the studio! The staff speak English and teach you the history of Bolesławiec pottery during your session! Showing the Warsaw In Your Pocket guide/map, you will receive an 8% discount!QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 80 01 84, www.pomaluj.art. Open 12:00-20:00; closed Sun. 61

Kids & Families

Kids & Families Get vertical in Stacja Grawitacja and check out the other fun activities on p.60.

Warsaw has a tonne of sightseeing, but not all places are suited for youngsters. You can only expect them to be quiet and respectful in museums for so long. There must be something else to do in this town, right? Yup! The first step to having a great family vacation abroad is to accept that what you want to do, and what your kids want to do are hardly one and the same. That said, there’s no reason you can’t find common ground in Warsaw’s major attractions.

Helpful Hints & Ideas The perfect choice is to go to the Copernicus Science Centre (p.45), which will not only keep the kids entertained with the games and interactive nature of the museum, but the adults with also have a whale of a time too. The Warsaw Rising Museum (p.55) is super-modern and highly interactive, with kid specific educational zones. The approach to Jewish history at POLIN (p.51) is equally as interactive, and appropriate for pre-teens and upwards. If action-packed indoor attractions interest you more, Warsaw also has Stacja Grawitacja (p.60) for trampolining madness. Hulakula Leisure Centre (p.60) not only has bowling, but an indoor 62

playground for the kids to run wild! MK Bowling Entertainment Centre (p.61) is also a great venue for adults and families with kids. Alternatively, get artsy with the ceramic painting workshops offered by Pomaluj.art (p.61), or expand your mind (and have fun playing tricks on it) in the World of Illusion (p.61) - essentially an educational museum, but also great for selfie pics! Sometimes the best thing to do is simply take a charming walk along the Royal Route (p.30) and onward to the Old Town (p.24), where in the warmer months, the area has a family atmosphere. Other outdoor leisure activities could include a visit to Łazienki Park (p.36) with plenty of cute squirrels, peacocks and ducks around! For more animals, check out Warsaw Zoo (p.63)! Don’t forget that Warsaw has plenty of parks to choose from, all with play areas for the kids to jump, swing, duck and roll, with all the central ones marked on our maps at the back. The Vistula Boulevards (p.44) are great for those wishing to walk, bike, skate or play in specially installed play areas for the kids. For general cycling, we highly recommend using the Veturilo city bike hire service (stations marked on our maps, available Apr-Nov), with plenty of cycle lanes across Warsaw to ride safely.

Kids & Families Pinball Station Remember a time before everyone could play games on their phones? A time when even having a gaming console was considered a luxury for kids? For those that didn’t have this, arcade games, and pinball machines in-particular, were a damn cool form of entertainment (and minor obsession). Relive those days in this fun pinball museum containing over 90 machines you can play on, some of which date back to the 1930s, with walls adorned in old school arcade posters. To get there, travel to the ‘Plac Zawiszy’ bus/ tram stop, or take the short walk from the ‘Rondo Daszyńskiego’ Metro station.QB‑9, ul. Kolejowa 8A, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 600 63 31 15, www. pinballstation.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. Admission 40/35zł; kids under 12 25zł.

Warsaw Zoo Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors each year. In total there are 12,700 animals here, across 500 species. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent years, though a visit here will do little to change any opinions you have on locking animals in cages. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during the 1944 Uprising (p.54), he helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo.QH‑3, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Open 09:00-17:00. From November open 09:00-16:00. From December open 09:00-15:30; Sat-Sun 09:00-16:00. Admission 20/15zł.

Warszawianka Water Park The best pool complex in Warsaw, the extensive facilities include saunas, steam rooms, snow cabins, solariums, loads of slides, a playground for the kids and more. Prices range from 69-95zł/52-71zł all day, 23-38zł/18-30zł per hour and 39-62zł/30-47zł for 2.5 hours (yes, the pricing is weird). Happy Hours are on offer with a fixed price Mon-Fri 17.50/9.50zł per hour from 09:00-15:00.QH‑16, ul. Merliniego 4 (Mokotów), MWierzbno, tel. (+48) 22 854 01 30, www.wodnypark.com.pl. Open 06:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 06:30-22:00. [Spa open 11:00-22:00; admission 4682/36-63zł].

For more ideas go to iyp.me/77849f 63

Day Trips from Warsaw

Day Trips As if there wasn’t enough to do in the Polish capital alone, the surrounding region of Mazovia offers up an astonishing number of fantastic sites worth exploring. If you’ve got some extra time or need an urban escape, consider taking a day trip out to the intriguing destinations listed here. 64

Day Trips from Warsaw Fryderyk Chopin Birthplace & Park in Żelazowa Wola This museum celebrates the lauded composer who was born here, and pays tribute to the dramatic history of the museum itself. Half of the house has been filled with early 19th century keepsakes, instruments and paintings, and many visitors attest to the haunting spirit of Chopin that lingers throughout. Outside the impressively landscaped gardens are perfect for a stroll as craftily hidden speakers serenade you with Chopin’s music. 54km west of Warsaw, Żelazowa Wola can be reached in one hour by bus and train.QŻelazowa Wola 15, tel. (+48) 468 63 33 00, www.muzeum.nifc. pl. Park open 10:00-18:00. Museum open Tue-Fri 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-11:00, 13:00-14:45, 16:00-18:00; Sun 14.00-14.45, 16:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 30/17zł for museum, park and temporary exhibition; 22/12zł for museum and park; 10/7zł for park only; Wed free.

Despite this, parts of the fortress are open to tourists. Although entry onto the terrain is free, to explore certain areas you must pay. The Museum of the September Campaign is open 11:00-17:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon (12/6zł). The underground basements are open Sat-Sun only 11:00-17:00 (12/6zł). There is also a viewing tower, open 10:00-16:00, SatSun 10:00-18:00 (13/8zł). The easiest way to get there is via the Koleje Mazowieckie ‘RL’ train, which leaves once an hour from Warszawa Centralna to Modlin station, from which the fort is a 10min walk to the west along the river.Qul. gen. Józefa Bema 500, Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki, tel. (+48) 604 60 70 92, www.twierdzamodlin.pl.

Kampinos National Park Only 20km northwest of Warsaw (heading to the towns Łomianki or Truskaw), Kampinos is the most accessible of Poland’s national parks. The entire area covers 385km2, which is interspersed with dense woodland, dunes and marshland, criss-crossed with biking, hiking and horse-riding trails. Equally famous for its association with the battle for Polish independence, Kampinos’ proximity to the capital has made it a favourite camp for partisans throughout history. Numerous mass graves date from national uprisings in 1863, and graves from the Home Army’s ‘Kampinos’ group, which fought in the Warsaw Uprising, (p.54) can be found in Wiersze village war cemetery. None are more somber than the huge Palmiry National Memorial & Museum - where civilians and intelligentsia were executed en masse during World War II.Qwww.kampinoski-pn.gov.pl.

Modlin Fortress Situated in the town of Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki, 30km northwest of Warsaw, the 19th century Modlin Fortress (Twierdza Modlin) is one of the longest buildings in Europe at 2,250m. It’s here - at the meeting point of the Narew and Wisła Rivers - that Napoleon ordered the creation of a defensive point in 1806 (he is even rumoured to have designed one of the first buildings). The complex was expanded by Tsarist troops from 1880 onwards and the main fort became part of a larger defensive project, consisting of two defensive rings. The fortress saw major action in the Battle of Modlin, when 24,000 Polish soldiers held out here from September 13-29, 1939. The fortress was used by the Polish military after the war, but eventually became redundant and has since been sold to developers.

Poniatowski Gate at Modlin Fortress in Autumn

Płock This trip can be completed in one day. Hugging the Vistula River 111km north-west of Warsaw is the city of Płock, administrative capital of Płock County in the Masovian Voivodeship. Believe it or not, Płock was also the one-time capital of Poland from 1079 to 1138 and the seat of Kings! The area’s importance grew with the first Pagan Slavic tribes, and later with the Piast Dynasty, which built a fortification on Wzgórze Tumskie (En: Tumskie Hill), overlooking the river. It’s around this hill where you’ll find most attractions, from the Płock Cathedral (Cathedral of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Masovia) and The Castle of the Masovian Dukes in Płock, the boulevards, pier, zoo and beach below, all not far from the charming Old Town Square (Stary Rynek), surrounded by numerous museums. To get there, you will need to take a bus from Warsaw West Main Bus Station, from where you can take a public PKS bus to Płock (journey time 1hr 45mins). We recommend you check the fantastic e-podróżnik.pl site for all bus times to be able to plan your journey in confidence.Qwww.plock.eu. 65

Coffee & Sweets

Breakfast & Brunch For some the direction of the day depends on the ability to eat a good breakfast, so we’ve highlighted some of our favourite places in Warsaw that specialise in śniadania (the Polish word for breakfast). Whether you’re an early bird that’s tired of eating worms, or a late riser that overdid it a bit last night, get a good first feed in the places below.

Bułkę przez Bibułkę A great little place that makes you feel like you’re in a smalltown setting as opposed to a busy street in Warsaw! It’s important to highlight they serve all-day-breakfasts, from bagels to soups and sandwiches, and a Cappuccino or Americano on the side only costs an extra 5zł. Furthermore, 0.5l wine is 16zł from 18:00-21:00 daily, and Prosecco 5zł! Also on ul. Zwycięzców 32 in Saska Kępa, ul. Puławska 24 in the Mokotów district and Żurawia 6/12.QG‑8, ul. Zgoda 3, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 28 55 22, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl. Open 07:30-23:00; Sat 08:00-23:00; Sun 08:00-22:00. T6

Cafe Bristol If you can’t afford to stay in the sumptuous Hotel Bristol, that certainly doesn’t preclude you from enjoying their wonderful ground-floor cafe overlooking a park just minutes from the Old Town. This classic interiors of this historic meeting place (opened in 1901) are a great place to have breakfast (until 12:00), a light meal, or coffee and cake served in the tradition of the finest pre-war Viennese coffeehouses. Slow time down until it’s merely a triviality.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 551 18 28, www.cafebristol.pl. Open 09:00-20:00. T

Chaud Pain A lovely and quite clever French cafe/bakery - the name ‘Chaud Pain’ (‘Hot Bread’) sounds a lot like the last name of Warsaw’s darling, Fryderyk Chopin (p.33). This airy boulangerie churns out a range of artisanal breads and baked goods. Soak up the Parisian ambiance with a coffee and croissant, or grab a sandwich and other to-go goodies from their delicatessen: high-quality caviar, canned seafood, meats, cheeses and more. Très chic.QG‑5, ul. Ossolińskich 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 797 01 29 41, www.chaudpain.pl. Open 09:00-19:00; Sun 09:00-18:00. TU6 66

Coffee & Sweets

Być Może... Start your day with the aroma of coffee and croissants in this sophisticated French bakery/bistro. Filling breakfasts include their fresh baked bread and are served all day. Choose from stacked bagel sandwiches, shakshuka, French toast, loaded oatmeal, or their take on the notorious Croque Madame. For us the poached egg (something we’ll never master at home) reigns supreme, and is featured in several hearty sets we’re happily working our way through. Find a second location at ul. Dobra 22/24.QH‑12, ul. Bagatela 14, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 519 00 00 14. Open 08:00-22:00. T6

Charlotte. Chleb i Wino Enjoy croissants with jam or traditional egg dishes anytime since trendy Charlotte slings all day breakfast. All ingredients are sourced locally, and vary depeneding on the season. Their chocolates and jams are made with home recipes, giving that extra dose of niceness. Also found at ul. Próżna 7, Nowy Świat 6/12 and ul. Kieślowskiego 7.QG‑10, Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (entrance from Pl. Zbawiciela), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 662 20 45 55, www.bistrocharlotte.pl. Open 07:00-24:00; Fri 07:0001:00; Sat 08:00-01:00; Sun 08:00-24:00. From Nov open 07:0024:00; Fri 07:00-01:00; Sat 08:00-01:00; Sun 08:00-22:00. T6

The Cool Cat One of our favourite spots in Warsaw. A quick glance at the menu will take your taste buds on a tour through some truly original Asian-influenced breakfasts, lunches and dinners. Start with Israeli Shakshuka then graduate to a Korean pork bun served with jackfruit, chicken, tofu and crab. Their coffee and alcohol selection mean that you can quite easily find an excuse to hang out here eating and drinking all day and night (guilty as charged). Also on ul. Marszałkowska 8.QI‑7, ul. Solec 38, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 574 81 18 16. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-22:00. T6 67

Local Flavours | Traditional Polish Dishes

Traditional Polish Dishes Polish food is famous for being simple, rich and very filling. Below we list the most well-known dishes you simply must try while in town, all of which you should be able to order from any Polish restaurant worth its salt. Smacznego!

BARSZCZ A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with a croquette (‘barszcz z krokietem’), with miniature pierogi floating in it (‘barszcz z uszkami’), or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. A recommended alternative to other beverages, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Poland, so make sure you return home with barzszcz stains on at least one of your shirts.

BIGOS Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

GOŁĄBKI Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish is like a ‘cabbage enchilada'. Consisting of boiled cabbage leaves filled with rice, onion and typically beef, gołąbki are rolled up and baked or steamed, then served with tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims that King Kazimierz IV fed his army gołąbki before the Battle of Grunwald, and their unlikely victory attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

GOLONKA This is ‘pork knuckle’ or ‘ham hock,’ as in the part of a pig’s leg between the knee and ankle. Boiled, braised or roasted, this is the closest the Poles come to barbecue, and is a delicacy. The meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Generally sold by weight, you might end up with more than you bargained for, but it’s certainly an Instagram opportunity. Go caveman. 68

Traditional Polish Dishes | Local Flavours

KOTLET SCHABOWY Typically served with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, this is probably the most popular meal in Poland. Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a weekend by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the sound of the meat being tenderised with a spiky mallet, so best mind your manners.

PIEROGI Poland’s most famous food, you can't leave PL until you’ve had them. These doughy, stuffed dumplings are typically steamed or pan-fried. Traditional fillings include potato, sweet cheese, minced meat, mushrooms and cabbage or seasonal fruits. If you nose around, you’ll find plenty of maverick fillings like chocolate, lentils or even chicken livers; the possibilities are limitless and served literally everywhere.

PLACKI ZIEMNIACZANE These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to hashbrowns or Jewish latkes (if that means anything to you), and may be served in a variety of ways. Keep it simple with just sour cream (‘placki solo’), or turn it into a hefty meal by ordering them smothered in mushroom sauce or - our favourite - goulash (‘placki po węgiersku’). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

ŻUREK It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a sour soup made from a thick stock of fermented rye flour. Typically chock full of potatoes, sausage and hard-boiled eggs, żurek is most often thickened with cream, and seasoned with marjoram, garlic, salt and pepper. The result is a tasty grayish gruel that any Polish peasant would be proud to polish off. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get it served in a bread bowl. 69

Restaurants | New & Featured

Bibs are the hot fashion item this autumn, trust us. Eat your heart out at the Alchemist (p.78).

Dining in Warsaw Warsaw’s come a long way fast, and nowhere is the city’s vibrancy and diversity more apparent than in its progressive culinary scene. What follows are some of the most noteworthy dining establishments in the capital, divided into basic categories. You’ll find the type of cuisine under each venue name, and as far as tipping goes, 10% is standard (easy math!). 70

New & Featured | Restaurants

Bez Tytułu

utensils International This high-end casual restaurant is all about sharing food and experiences. The vibe here is cosy and intimate, while the menu, composed by Chef Piotr Ceranowicz, is filled with small and large dishes designed to be shared by diners. These include intriguing pairings like tartare with black garlic, escargot with parsley, or halloumi with watermelon and mint, which go well with Bez Tytułu’s selection of classic and inventive cocktails (sake with gin and aloe, anyone?). The hospitality is also strong here, with the restaurant remaining open until the last guest is ready to leave (note, however, that the kitchen stops serving at 23:45). QF‑9, ul. Poznańska 16, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 516 03 31 24, www.beztytulu.com. Open 17:00-23:45; closed Mon, Sun. €€€. XT6

Epoka Polish This fine food experience comes courtesy of Chef Marcin Przybysz, the 2014 winner of Top Chef Poland, whose interpretations of traditional Polish cuisine can be rivaled by few. The impeccably prepared tasting menus, comprising either 15 or 20 consecutive morsels and small dishes, will take you through the epochs of Polish history. The menus can be paired with wine or nonalcoholic drinks by professional sommeliers, and then there’s the feast for the eyes provided by the interior design - the deep jewel tones and swanky furnishings are the work of Slovak set designer and architect Boris Kudlička. Don’t worry about overstaying your welcome, either - Epoka remains open until the last guest (do note that the kitchen closes at 21:30). Recommended. QG‑5, ul. Ossolińskich 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 666 11 55 66, www.epoka.restaurant. Open 18:00-21:30; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€€ TU6

Restaurants | Fine Dining

Fine dining Dine your way through the rich history of Polish cuisine in Epoka (p.71).

Belvedere utensils Polish Nestled inside Łazienki Park, Belvedere is a romantic orangery filled with foliage and a smattering of well-dressed tables both inside and out. Having undergone a head to toe renovation, the Belvedere is a stunningly dramatic venue with peacocks wandering the grounds and multiple waiters offering first class service. The food lives up to the atmosphere. Your options include French or Italian picnic baskets for two people for 249zł and a Sunday brunch option 12:00-16:30 for 249zł (kids menu also available) all set to occasional live chillout music. Few places in Warsaw are this classy or this expensive, and dare we say women are right to assume a booking

here means something big is in order.QI‑12, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in Łazienki Park, entrance from ul. Parkowa), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 606 10 20 02, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. €€€€. ToE

Der Elefant utensils International Opened back in 1990, this long-running establishment is spread over various rooms and floors, with a choice of dining experiences. From the street you’ll find their diner-style seafood bar with plenty of fresh fish; alternatively, enter through the courtyard to find a mock shop inside which you’ll see the chefs racing to fill the rapid flow of

Symbol & Price Key

6 Animal friendly

C‑1 Map Coordinate

T Child-friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

o Year-round Garden

X Smoking room available

€ €€ €€€ €€€€ €€€€€

most mains under 25zł most mains 25-45zł most mains 45-75zł most mains 75-115zł most mains over 115zł

Fine Dining | Restaurants orders. The concise but diverse single-card menu offers a choice of hot and cold starters (including the recommended Alaskan Crab’s legs), burgers and steaks, the aforementioned fresh fish and some salad and pasta options. They also have a lunch offer, Mon-Fri: a soup, main and dessert for 28zł (26zł without the soup). An attractive layout and prices lower than you would expect considering the location make Der Elefant insanely popular. QE‑5, Pl. Bankowy 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 890 00 10, www.derelefant.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. TUoE

Elixir by Dom Wódki utensils Polish When we first heard of Elixir we instinctively thought, surely someone has already thought of this? Unbelievably, nobody had - so, top marks to the masterminds behind this classy establishment. At their Vodka Atelier you can try over 600 vodkas from around Poland and the globe; the range goes from PRL era classics to Polish ‘small batch’ distillers, designer vodkas, flavoured vodkas and culminates in the staggeringly priced ‘Młody Ziemniak 2017 volare’ (25ml for 50zł). The restaurant itself features stunningly presented, contemporary takes on Polish classics with a ‘food pairing’ system which recommends specific vodkas to complement the ingredients and flavours of each dish. An Absolut (pardon the pun!) top-spot and a truly unique venue on Warsaw’s culinary map. QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 11, www.domwodki.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. To

Lobster House utensils Seafood The choice of seafood venues in Warsaw (and good quality seafood in Poland as a whole, for that matter) has steadily been increasing over the last decade or so, however, it still has a reputation as being exclusive and pricey (sometimes unwarranted)! With the opening of The Lobster House, you could say the zenith is upon us! Set inside a landmark building ([the] ‘house without corners’) along the Royal Route (p.30), the location alone suggests a top quality venue. And it is. Inside you will find a sleek space spanning 451m2 (which comes in handy when you have 7 aquariums housing your food!), and able to host 120 people (plus more outside during summer), along with an impressive 10-metre-long bar. The food is as fresh as it possibly can be, and just delightful. This is definitely The Lobster House. QG‑6, ul. Królewska 2, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 731 00 08 47, www.lobsterhouse.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. €€€€€. TU6

L’Arc Varsovie utensils Seafood Upscale dining options are on the rise in Warsaw, and L’Arc Varsovie brings its A game with offerings of fresh seafood and French staples like chicken roulade. Lobster is their claim to fame, and it’s easy to start your meal with the rich cream of lobster soup if you (and your wallet) aren’t prepared to go all in on a full tail. Alternatively, try out their Mon-Fri lunch option (12:00-16:00) consisting of fish soup and main dish for just 29zł (we’d say that’s a bargain, considering its focus on seafood). The black and white interior suggests a smart French brasserie, bringing a little piece of Paris to Warsaw, and the service is in the running for one of the most attentive we’ve experienced on Polish soil. One of the best places in town for seafood. Recommended.QH‑13, ul. Puławska 16, MPole Mokotowskie, tel. (+48) 519 00 00 50, www.larc.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€€. TUE6

As fresh as seafood can get! Head to the Lobster House.

Restaurants | Fine Dining Nobu Restaurant

Stary Dom

utensils Japanese

utensils Polish

Found inside the stylish Nobu Hotel Warsaw, the Nobu Restaurant is a major part of the overall Nobu experience, a place where a mix of tastes and emotions become one. The 125-seat restaurant is a perfect place for breakfast, family meals and business refreshments, and no wonder, with the world-famous Japanese cuisine of chef Nobu Matsuhisa on the menu (chef Yannick Lohou is at the helm in Warsaw) offering signature dishes such as Yellow Tail with Jalapeno and Black Cod with Miso, Toto tartar with caviar, Beef Toban Yaki along with exclusive sakes and creative cocktails. The café offers classic Polish pastries, but also sandwiches, salads, and freshly brewed coffees and teas.QF‑10, ul. Wilcza 73, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 551 88 00, www.warsaw. nobuhotels.com/dining. Open 18:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 18:0023:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. TUoE6

Not by any stretch of the imagination centrally located, but well worth the trip south for a rollicking, rustic, big-portioned, slap-happy Polish experience. Usually crowded with happy diners you will see why quickly: they get a lot right where others too often fail. Service, for example, is good, prices fair (it’s not central Warsaw, so they sensibly do not charge central Warsaw prices) and the food is well above average, occasionally inspired. On a point of trivia it is partowned by the man who played Pope John Paul II in the incredibly successful Polish cinematic version of his life. QH‑16, ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. (+48) 22 646 42 08, www.restauracjastarydom.pl. Open 12:00-23:30. €€€. T

PAM PAM Restaurant

Run by the Godfather of Warsaw’s Thai cuisine, Surachart Urajaroen, this restaurant is 100% the real deal. No messing around with fusion concepts or little Polish additions. The Thai kitchen team stick firmly to tradition and the results are spectacular. Based in the National Theatre building itself, the exterior of hefty, grey stonework gives you no inkling of the opulent interior which awaits you. Black walls decorated with Thai designs and gold curved ceilings create a very calming and relaxing environment. The well laid out seating areas also offer you the option of dining in a more private space, great for business meetings or an intimate dinner date. Business lunch is served 12:00-16:00 Mon-Fri for 35zł.QF‑5, Pl. Teatralny 3, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 601 81 82 83, www.thaithai.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€. XT

utensils International Hands down one of the best places we’ve been to recently. Found on the stylish ul. Emilii Plater (modern, vibrant, with a touch of pre-war class), PAM PAM had us intrigued as we walked in - a mix of classic style with post-industrial bare brick, and the back room, more private, cosy even. The entire place has a classiness to it, which is matched by the premium menu. Relax, and let the very professional waiting staff do their business - ever so helpful. Special mention must also go to head chef Paweł Rumowski whose own artistic flare is visible in all the creative dishes, filling but light, that will glide their way to your table. Stylish food, in both looks and taste, a classy setting, for business people having lunch meetings, to the more serious dinner dates for couples. A wonderful place.QF‑9, ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 629 29 29, www.pampam.com.pl. Open 17:0022:00; Sat 15:00-22:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€.

Thai Thai utensils Thai

Rozbrat 20 utensils International For all intents and purposes, faultless. A fine dining experience of the old school, though the food has a contemporary twist and packs a seriously sophisticated punch. The menu is seasonal and changes regularly. As for the wine list, it needs no introduction: it is one of the best in all of Poland, and the knowledgeable staff will help you choose the best complement to your meal. An indulgence worth going for. QI‑9, ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. (+48) 22 416 62 66, www.rozbrat20.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sat 14:0022:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. o 74

Cooking with the elements in Thai Thai.

Fine Dining | Restaurants

U Fukiera

Wabu Sushi & Japanese Tapas

utensils Polish

utensils Japanese

Warsaw’s oldest and most famous restaurant, U Fukiera represents a tradition going all the way back to the 16th century! Under the star stewardship of celebrity restaurateur Magda Gessler (of Polish MasterChef fame), this enchanting establishment’s interior is a work of art, bedecked with oil paintings and ornate antiques, all blending with the tastes and scents of your food to create a fantastic ambience. It’s easy to feel like you’re a part of history when dining here, and the guestbook - harbouring such haughty names as Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson - would suggest that indeed you are. Right on the Rynek in the heart of Warsaw’s Old Town, enjoy the delicious, perfectly-presented food and soak up the regal atmosphere. If you’re curious, check out their website for a 360-degree multimedia tour of the venue before you go quite fun!QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 600 99 99 33, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. To6

Sometimes stiff formality and pretence go hand in hand with fine dining, and though the food may be great, the overall experience can be a bit awkward or even, ugh...tiring. As such, it’s nice to experience exclusive dining in the Japanese Izakaya style (informal eating). Wabu is very much a place for all types of people, from businessmen to couples to tourists and even families, so relax and enjoy. The interior is a minimal and elegantly unfussy gem, going for that old Japanese look, and blending in nicely with its modern surroundings on Plac Europejski. The menu is varied, inclusive of what you’d expect in sushi restaurants, however, Wabu also provides a special menu for kids, and a mighty lunch offer (12:00-15:00, 12 pieces of sushi for 39zł). The alcohol selection is extensive and bound to please everybody. Simple and elegant, Wabu has our hearty endorsement. QC‑7, Plac Europejski 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 668 92 59 59, www.wabu.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Kitchen open until 22:30. €€€€. TUo6

Restaurants | Casual Dining

Casual dining Retreat to Roztocze without leaving the capital: Zwierzyniec Beer & Rest (p.79).

Sometimes you just need a casual and convenient place to relax, enjoy good food, vibes and hospitality. The following venues deliver in that regard. While our listed opening hours seem self-explanatory, be aware that some venues close their doors if business is slow, while others stay open after the kitchen has closed. In such cases, the hours we list are for the kitchen.

Beef n’ Pepper utensils Steak Hidden away in a small alleyway alongside the famous Roma Theatre, the exterior may well look like you’re about to enter a 1970’s shopping mall, but inside it’s a smart, urban steakhouse and bar. The quality of the cuts here is excellent (28 days wet-aged) and the fact that they use the finest local meat means prices are surprisingly reasonable. Seafood options and Louisiana Chicken Wings struggle for a look-in as beef rules. In addition to a fine wine list, the slick bar also has a brilliant selection of whiskies and bourbons. Live music is available every Tuesday from 19:00.QF‑9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 785 02 50 25, www.beefandpepper.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. €€€€. TUE6 76

Ciao Napoli utensils Italian Located a short distance away from the Old Town Square (p.27), Ciao Napoli’s aim is to bring a little piece of Naples to the centre of Warsaw. Having originally opened on Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8 (F-4) to great success, boasting some of the city’s best pizza, imagine our delight when they opened this 2nd location with more seating, a bigger kitchen, and an expanded menu, with all the friendly atmosphere and cosiness of the first restaurant. Offering a selection of antipasti, salads, seafood, and desserts, it is the choice of Neapolitan pizzas with their fantastic thin and crispy dough which really stick out. Lunch specials of soup, an entree and water are available Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 for 27zł. As if things couldn’t get any better, they have fresh mussels every Thursday, daily happy hours with 2-for-1 cocktails (16:00-19:00), and on weekends your 2nd bottle of prosecco is free! You leave satisfied, especially when you realise just how reasonably priced the whole experience was, despite being in a tourist hotspot.QF‑4, ul. Długa 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 666 32 27 33, www.ciaonapoli.pl. Open 12:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€. To6

Casual Dining | Restaurants Gościniec Polskie Pierogi utensils Polish Walking in the Old Town (p.24), you’re going to feel an air of nostalgia. The location is stunning, and the atmosphere sums up the traditional romantic image of Poland. To top it off, you’re going to want to try some traditional Polish grub, right? Gościniec has just that, with hearty food from soups, pierogi, potato pancakes and various meat offerings, all at very reasonable prices. You can’t go wrong with pierogi, but we’d personally recommend the pork chops or cabbage rolls stuffed with meat (known locally as gołąbki - go-womp-ki)! The drinks on offer are quite funky (cold/hot options), all served up by friendly staff wearing folk attire! It may feel very kitsch inside, but the food is immense. They have other locations on ul. Nowy Świat 41, and deep in the Old Town on Podwale 19 and ul. Piwna 14, should you choose to venture some more before eating.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 29, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 273 69 36, www.gosciniec.waw.pl. Open 11:0022:00; Fri 11:00-23:00. €. To6

Guru Restaurant & Bar utensils Indian Guru was borne out of the owners’ long dream to open an Indian restaurant. We’re lucky they got their wish, as they are redefining Indian cuisine with a flair for modernity. And what better location than Warsaw - a city that has been transforming at lightning pace, the redevelopment visible on the very street where Guru is located, ul. Widok, right next to Metro Centrum (as central as it gets!). Perfect for both casual dining and business meals, the interior is a mix of traditional and modern, as is the menu with its classics (with a real Tandoori oven!), all the way to the drinks menus. Lunches served Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00 (27/21zł). Recommended.QG‑8, ul. Widok 8, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 857 06 04, www.gururestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€. To6

pretty much everything on the menu, and have yet to find a weak link. Consider ringing ahead for takeaway because waiting times can be torture and ask about booking their new private room for parties and meetings.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. Open 11:0023:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. o

OTO!SUSHI utensils Japanese One of our favourite sushi spots in Warsaw, which has been going strong for over 12 years (no mean feat in Warsaw!). Sure, the location helps – who can argue with eating on swanky Nowy Świat (p.34)? – but the helpful staff and great menu options put it squarely on top. They offer traditional sushi, but they’re not afraid to experiment with flavours too (mixing strawberries with salmon maki rolls is surprisingly delightful)! Ducking in for a lunch special will get you heaps of fresh sushi along with a free miso soup, and green tea for a reasonable price. The sushi masters engage with customers (something the regulars love!) as they ply their trade, but the interaction doesn’t end there, for they also arrange sushi training sessions on request. You can’t go wrong with this place.QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 46, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 828 00 88, www.oto-sushi.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€. Uo

Namaste India utensils Indian What began as a modest Indian-owned grocery store soon expanded into a full-on ethnic restaurant and proved so popular that a second location was needed to meet the demand for delicious Indian cuisine that was 15 years ago! Impressive. For office workers around town, this - the expanded original location remains one of the best, and we’ll agree that it simply doesn’t get much better for Indian food in the capital. Better still, the prices are set so low you can’t help but ask what’s the catch. There isn’t one; we’ve tried

Beef n' Pepper

Restaurants | Casual Dining and avocado, crispy duck with noodles, octopus with turnips, and beef tenderloin with oyster sauce. Make sure to ‘swing by’ on a Saturday night (after 20:00) to enjoy live swing music; alternatively, Fridays at 19:00 is when a rotating cast of DJ’s start heating things up. Swing is also a perfect place for organising business meetings, formal dinners and all sorts of celebrations. QG‑7, ul. Chmielna 2, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 667 98 88 88, www.swingrestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. oE6

The Alchemist Grill & Cocktail utensils International

Paros utensils Mediterranean Paros is the first and last place in Warsaw where a waiter helped us with our coat and even pulled out our chair - such gallantry! That attention carries over to the menu of Greek staples (we loved the bitesized Spanakopitas), which offers a true taste of the Mediterranean. Our dinner date just happened to be a Greek chef, and his delighted reactions to each dish provided ample amusement. Paros is so large it still feels spacious when its full, even with a packed white wraparound bar in the middle of the room. Drop in for live music every Friday and Saturday starting at 21:00. QF‑7, ul. Jasna 14/16A, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 67, www.paros-restauracja.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00. €€€. ToE

SWING Asian Fusion Restaurant & Cocktail Bar utensils Asian High-end Asian fusion cooking and fancy cocktails are the name of the game at this elegant, modern establishment. The menu is composed of appetizing creations drawing inspiration from the whole of Asia; dishes on offer include salmon tartare with mango 78

We already love The Alchemist for bringing the future of drinking not only to Warsaw but to the world, with their patented ‘beer wall’ (8 taps). As impressive as their cocktails and beer selection is, however, the real reason to visit is their award-winning food (Gault & Millau 2020). Enjoy gourmet interpretations of Polish standards and classics like burgers and fish & chips, but their specialty is juicy steaks grilled and served on hot lava plates. The presentation is as sleek and pleasing as the interior design, which is hard not to admire. Fun fact: the Warsaw Metropolitan where The Alchemist is housed was designed by British architect Norman Foster. A touch of modernity added to the Old Town area. We can stay here for hours just chilling with our beer cards and sharing platters. Top venue. QF‑5, Plac Piłsudskiego 3, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 628 00 23, www.thealchemist.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-00:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. €€. o6

The Legendary Jack’s Cinema Restaurant & Bar utensils American Mr. Jack Daniels is in town and he’s brought a projector screen?! Opened in 2015, Jack’s is a bar, restaurant and event-only cinema, found inside a renovated pre-war tenement building. The interior takes a 180 degree turn and has that American post-industrial feel, with a ceiling blotted out with hundreds of JD bottles quite the touch! For food, the steaks, burgers, ribs in BBQ sauce and chicken wings are outstanding. For drinks at the bar, aside from the obvious choice, there are dozens of options from beers to the harder stuff! Keep an eye on their site for all the latest info on karaoke, concerts and other events in the dedicated mini cinema hall! Turn up, kick back in their deep sofas and seats, enjoy the food, the drinks, the show, and of course, the atmosphere. Cheers, Jack!QG‑8, ul. Bracka 18, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 400 28 23, www.jackscinema.pl. Open 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:0022:00. €€. TUE6

Casual Dining | Restaurants Tutti Colori utensils Italian This quaint post-industrial pizza venue borders fits in with the surrounding area filled with old warehouses, just a stone’s throw away from Westfield Arkadia shopping centre. But we’re here for the pizza. Tutti Colori’s tagline is ‘the best pizza begins with the dough’ (agreed!) and Tutti’s dough is elegantly thin. There are over 30 pizzas to choose, from rossa to bianca (our favourite being the Velutto with mascarpone), but there are also other Italian favourites like antipasti and deserts. All this accompanied with great wine, and even some beers. Second location at ul. Postępu 5.QB‑2, ul. Burakowska 15, MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 692 12 60 38. Open 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. TUo6

U Barssa utensils Polish The Old Town is packed with decent places to eat, but once lacked a strong line-up of truly great places. Times, they have a-changed. As you walk across the main market square and into the elegant dining room, you will discover a world of luxury, craft and privilege. The signature duck baked with beetroot, fried apples and cranberry sauce, and the Angus steak with green pepper are just two of the winning dishes on the menu, and we have to mention the outstanding wine list! They also have a huge summer garden and offer live music on Saturdays, so call ahead to reserve your space in this charming place.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 12/14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 24 76, www.ubarssa.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-23:00. €€€. ToE

Zwierzyniec Beer & Rest utensils Polish Right in the centre of Warsaw, this casual bar and restaurant channels the wild, natural spirit of EastCentral Poland, offering the down-home delicacies of the Roztocze region at very reasonable prices. Choose from marinated sturgeon, sorrel soup, or braised beef cheeks with rosemary dumplings, washing it all down with their own signature Zwierzyniec brand Pilsner (a steal at only 10zł per half-litre). This being the capital, you can rest assured that you won’t be savouring the delicious dishes in a folk kitsch setting, but rather artfully-presented on beautiful flatware in a sleek, modern interior. Fresh beer, fresh ingredients and refreshingly affordable, this one’s an easy winner. QG‑8, ul. Bracka 18, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 663 925 938. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. o6 79

Restaurants | Vegan & Vegetarian

Vegan & Vegetarian Warsaw is the 6th most vegan friendly city in the world (it’s official!). | Photo: Brook Lark @ Unsplash.com

For a country that loves its meaty dishes, it may seem like a surprise that Warsaw finds itself voted as the 6th most vegan-friendly city in the world by Happy Cow, the leading international guide for vegan restaurants! It’s the 3rd year in a row that Poland’s capital has been included in the top 10! But hey, for as much as meaty dishes dominate Polish menus, veg has forever been a staple of dishes too, and now comes the vegan revolution! Today, you can find 50 vegan venues in and around the city centre - 5 years ago, the figure was only 11! If we include restaurants which offer a vegan option, then that figure goes way above 100! Happy eatin’.

Lokal Vegan Bistro This communally run ‘local’ restaurant have achieved the impossible: they serve up hot and hearty plates of VEGAN Polish dishes that are often more delicious than their pork-heavy counterparts. What is more, they frequently change their entire menu so unless you check out their FB page you won’t know exactly what to find. Alongside vegan ‘cutlets’, cabbage concoctions and beet soups, you’ll also find plenty of more exotic international 80

dishes plus a few surprises. Huge portions, fresh ingredients, cheap prices (Mon-Fri 12-16, a lunch menu consisting of a ‘cutlet’, soup and kompot drink for 25zł), a buzzing friendly atmosphere filled with locals all add up to be one of the best spots for a healthy lunch or dinner in the city centre.QG‑9, ul. Krucza 23/31, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 517 61 51 22, www.lokalveganbistro.pl. Open 12:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. TUo6

Mango Vegan Street Food Mango has rapidly built up a cult following for its cheap and cheerful vegan fair in the city centre. The menu may be short but it’s a great place to enjoy a range of Arabic and Israeli influenced flavours, from juicy vegan burgers, falafel based options to soups, smoothies and drinks - have a lunch for 25zł! The yellow and white painted brickwork interior makes this ‘fast food’ joint look effortlessly hip. The tatted and bearded staff are friendly, funny and enjoy a bit of clowning around.QG‑8, ul. Bracka 20, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 535 53 36 29, www.mangovegan.com.pl. Open 11:30-21:30; Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00. €€. To6

Vegan & Vegetarian | Restaurants Tel Aviv Food & Wine Jewish cuisine in Warsaw gets a bad rap – think singing waiters and old town rip-offs. So Tel Aviv is a refreshing change, a cool vegan restaurant that doesn’t play to the standard caricature. On the contrary, find a hip venue that draws everything from intrigued backpackers to remnants of the local Jewish community to lovers of middle eastern cuisine (hello, hummus). Weirdness like Sabbath chillout sessions add to the random, eclectic nature of this place, and it’s rounded out nicely by Israeli drinks and nibbles. This place does well to show that vegan cuisine can be both visually stunning and damn tasty, with menus featuring plant-based and gluten-free menus. It’s become quite the cult venue in Warsaw.QF‑9, ul. Poznańska 11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 621 11 28, www.telaviv.pl. Open 11:00-21:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 11:0022:00. €€. To6

Veg Deli Situated on a tranquil tree-lined residential street in the Powiśle area of the city, Veg Deli has certainly managed to up the ante regarding vegetarian restaurants in Warsaw. The freshly prepared vegetarian and vegan dishes are richly coloured, fragrant and look, smell and taste amazing; there’s even a bar serving alcohol. Even seasoned carnivores such as us were knocked out by the food and natural drinks on offer.QH‑6, ul. Radna 14, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 796 61 75 15, www.vegdeli.pl. Open 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. 6

Potato slices!

Photo: Monika Grabowska @ Unsplash

Vege Bistro This bright bistro serves up hearty and healthy vegan lunches and dinners. They draw inspiration from Eastern and Western cuisines and unlike many other vegan joints, the flavours are bursting off the plate. Daily lunch specials plus a stocked set menu of rainbow bowl with rice noodles, white rice with kimchi, oyster mushroom wings, pulled bbq ‘duck’! Grab a juice, coffee or craft beer to wash it down and you’re all set for the rest of the day.QG‑7, ul. Mikołaja Kopernika 25, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 516 02 79 06, www.vegebistro.pl. Open 12:00-18:00; Mon 12:00-17:00. €. 6

Vege Miasto

Charcoal buns are all the rage. Photo: Creatv Eight @ Unsplash.com

A paradise for Warsaw’s healthy eating, vegan and gluten-free fanatics. The interior is a pretty simple affair with fittings made from old wooden crates and palettes. The smallish space is permanently packed with a variety of customers; hip vege devotees sit alongside business types, local ladies and tourists in search of something beyond a fried pig and a kilo of potatoes. 2nd location, going by the name Caffe Miasto on Al. Solidarności 84.QE‑5, Al. Solidarności 60A, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 251 05 25, www.vegemiasto.pl. Open 12:00-21:00; Mon 12:0018:00. €€. To6 81

Restaurants | Food Markets

Food Markets Browary Warszawskie - Food Hall Browary

Browary Warszawskie

NEW Once one of Central Europe’s most famous brewing complexes, this 4.5ha area in Wola has been revitalised into a trendy urban culture and gastronomy district (p.14), featuring dozens of top restaurants and contemporary food concepts. Discover a wide range of international cuisines, plus cafes, bakeries, delicatessens, shops and services all in this dense neighbourhood. Mixing bold new architecture with restored historical buildings, postindustrial design with public green spaces, the heart of this ‘city within a city’ is Food Hall Browary - 11 contemporary food concepts in the former brewery cellars. The historic Browar Warszawski (Warsaw Brewery) itself has also been revived and is once again producing craft beers (18 different types!) for local hopheads. Exciting new venues continue to open and as if all that weren’t enough, you’ll also find a full calendar of events for all ages online. There’s always something brewery at Browary! QC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 58, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.browarywarszawskie.com.pl. Open 07:30-01:00. 82

Elektrownia Powiśle From the outside, it’s obvious that this former power station has been given a new boost of energy following a major overhaul. What is essentially a classier-than-average shopping mall, EP also contains a whole host of gastro eateries, bars and event space. The central food court has the feel of a street food market, with 17 street food stalls and restaurants to choose from. But that doesn’t mean you have to settle for this as there are also fully functioning restaurants to choose from in the opposite office buildings too! You’re spoilt for choice and can let your tastes or budget decide where you want to grab some grub (hard decision!). Once you’re done dining, check out their bars - Kandela, Centrala and Elektryk - and also keep a regular eye on their events calendar so you don’t miss hip foodie happenings like their ‘Eko Targ’ (Eco Market), selling GMO-free locally-grown produce. Everything under one roof - kudos!QH‑6, ul. Zajęcza 2B, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Open 12:0023:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-02:00.

Food Markets | Restaurants Hala Gwardii

The grimier twin number of Hala Mirowska - its adjacent neighbour to the west (p.96) - these two enormous brick buildings were built as market halls at the turn of the century. Miraculous survivors of WWII, while Mirowska quickly returned to its function as a vast indoor market where you can buy almost anything, Hala Gwardii served as a bus depot, eventually becoming a sports hall and home to the ‘Gwardia’ Policemen’s Sports Club - hence the name. Today it still features a boxing ring, small boxing museum and portraits of Polish boxing legends on the walls, but since 2017 has returned to a modern version of its roots - as an eclectic indoor food hall and hipster marketplace focused on local and organic products. The neglected exterior gives it an alternative edge, while inside you have dozens of the city’s top gastro concepts to choose from, plus coffee, alcohol and other drinks, as well as a market of local food products. Worth checking out each weekend for frequent food festivals and other very cool events. QE‑6, Plac Żelaznej Bramy 1, MRondo ONZ, www.halagwardii.pl. Open Fri, Sat 09:00-01:00; Sun 10:00-23:00 only.

Hala Koszyki From the outset Hala Koszyki has managed to raise the love and hate hackles of the city’s ‘out on the town’ set. How many world cuisine eateries of various sizes can you squeeze into one space? Actually, due to its popularity, fate may decide what you’ll eat as tables are packed most times of the day or night. Amazingly popular amongst the young and the beautiful, Hala K will probably remain THE place to be seen for some time to come - mainly because it’s easy to be seen due to its open plan layout. Top class little independent bistros sit next to some of Warsaw’s chain restaurants, like Tuk Tuk and the biggest restaurateurs including Mateusz Gessler’s gastronomic outpost - Port Royal. The main hall has some brilliant food on offer, with stalls offering flavours from all over the world. There are of course some shops here too, however, in reality, they’ll always play second fiddle to the top class dining area. Even if you can’t find a table at any of the cool eateries and bars, we urge you to spend some time taking in this stunning market hall. Don’t forget to look up, down, sideways etc. as beautiful hidden details abound!QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00-01:00.

Hala Koszyki

Nightlife | New & Featured

Bottoms up at The Alchemist Grill & Cocktail

Nightlife in Warsaw There was a time not long ago when a bar in Warsaw was just a dull place to go and get drunk - that’s it. Though the concept of a bar as a social venue is still relatively new, the choice of modern venues - whether cool dive joints or sleek exclusive cocktail bars - is now immense. Go enjoy yourself and na zdrowie (cheers)! 84

New & Featured | Nightlife

El Koktel

Cocktail Bar Moody and elegant, this sophisticated cocktail bar serves signature drinks with performative flair. The imaginative menu of classic and modern mixed drinks changes seasonally; during our recent visit the sci-fi/space exploration theme featured delicious drinks with names like ‘Space Oddity,’ ‘Johnny Silverhand’ and ‘Houston, We Had a Problem,’ and the range of unique ingredients included nutella liqueur, agave nectar, bison grass absinthe and pomegranate tincture. These alcohol alchemists even make their own flavoured gin (cleverly named ‘Gin Dobry’), which you simply must sample by ordering a classic G&T. Also on the menu: wine, craft beer, and antipasti boards. Ring the doorbell to be admitted. QG‑7, ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 507 45 64 47, www.facebook.com/elkoktel. Open 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-01:00; closed Mon, Sun.

Woda Ognista Cocktail Bar Before we detail the place, we’ll mention the area - ul. Wilcza, one of many nice streets that can be described as ‘off the beaten track’, hiding some wonderful pre-war architecture you might miss if you don’t stray from Warsaw’s main drag, ul. Marszałkowska. Emitting a nostalgic air of bygone days, Woda Ognista captures and bottles this atmosphere of ‘forgotten Warsaw’, with classy 1920s-30s decor and a primly dressed staff that exude panache. Prepare to be impressed by their seasonal offerings, fantastic Polish-style cocktails and dishes that take you on a journey through Warsaw’s cultural history. Put simply, this is a wonderful place to experience a modern spin on pre-war Varsovian style and we’re sure the likes of Eugeniusz Bodo and Mieczysław Fogg would have approved. QH‑9, ul. Wilcza 8, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 258 14 41, www.wodaognista.com. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-02:00. 6

Nightlife | Bars

Bars

Get juiced on botanicals in El Koktel (p.85).

In Warsaw you are never far from a great night out, and this section highlights some of our favourite venues. As it’s a large city, there are several key nightlife areas: Warsaw’s artsy, alternative crowd prefer the down-at-heel bars across the river in Stara Praga (H/I-4) and the fashionable Saska Kępa (L-7), while young trendsetters head to Powiśle (p.42). Lads stick to the party strip on ul. Mazowiecka (F-6/7) and skint travellers and students enjoy the vibe of the dive bars in The Pavilions (ul. Nowy Świat 26, G-7). In practice, many bars will stay open beyond the call of duty if business is good, but by the same benchmark will happily bolt the doors early if not.

Symbol Key

6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

o Year-round Garden

X Smoking room available

AURA Bar Bar Walking around Warsaw’s atmospheric city centre side streets, you could easily miss this place. It’s barely bigger than a small bedroom. Despite its size, it’s been causing quite a stir amongst Warsaw locals who are more than happy to squeeze in. Found on the corner of an eye catching pre-war residential building, entering, you’ll immediately see why all the hype is justifed. Small, dark, moody in all the right ways; it has a relaxed Moroccan interior design to draw your attention. Once you’ve stopped looking at the design of the place, your head then spins in the direction of the wall of bourbons behind the bar - a huge selection for such a small venue. The cocktails here, based on seasonal ingredients, are as delicious as the atmosphere. It’s hard not to be impressed by such small places that pack a big punch.QG‑9, ul. Hoża 27, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 791 88 81 98. Open 17:00-01:00; Fri 18:00-03:00; Sat 18:00-02:00. o6

Bars | Nightlife Back Room Bar Cocktail Bar Stroll down ul. Koszykowa, just off from Plac Konstytucji, and at no. 53 on your left, head down to the end of the lane which looks more like a residential car park. Keep hugging the right-hand side, walking past a few restaurants, and voilà, you’ll reach the Back Room Bar - an appropriate name indicating how well hidden it is! It would be a shame to miss this place, as inside, the mix of American 1930s bar and inter-war Varsovian lifestyle is strong; all with a heady art deco atmosphere. To top off the atmospehere, they have live music every Thu & Fri from 20:30. The cocktails the friendly dressed-for-the-part staff make are great, the setting perfect for a private drink, or a mingling session with friends. No harm in trying it out, huh?QG‑10, ul. Koszykowa 49A, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 794 49 56 59, www.backroom.bar. Open 19:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 19:0002:00; closed Mon, Sun. E

Charlie Cocktail Bar Billing itself as a venue where elegance meets comfort, this lounge bar feels like the type of place your classy ole pal Charlie himself would invite you into. If you don’t know anyone called Charlie, then let this venue be the substitute to fill that void! Found on the likewise elegant ul. Mokotowska, one of our favourite areas of Warsaw, just off the beaten track, come here to check out a wide selection of cocktails, all in the pleasantly dark and moody atmosphere. Their calendar of events, hosting live acts, jazz music, a Saturday DJ and various parties are legendary.QG‑10, ul. Mokotowska 39, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 739 09 75 14, www.charliebar.pl. Open 19:00-01:00; Fri 17:0002:00; Sat 19:00-02:00; closed Mon, Sun. XE

Hard Rock Cafe Cocktail Bar Sure you don’t need to see Freddie Mercury’s red leather pants to enjoy a night out, but it certainly doesn’t hurt. The Hard Rock Cafe’s large downstairs bar area is jumping at night even when live rock shows aren’t on the agenda. The endless bar mixes up a long list of colourful cocktails for a heavily expat crowd taking in paraphernalia like a well-worn Bee Gees guitar and a black leather outfit that formerly clung to Madonna’s early 90s frame. And, of course, there’s live music - Wednesdays and Fridays starting at 19:00.QE‑8, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.com. Open 09:00-24:00. 6 87

Nightlife | Bars - this is such a place. Two levels of surprisingly unpretentious cocktail showmanship and DJ danceparty mayhem, fuelled by the weird and wonderful auteur alcoholic concoctions on their regularly changing menu. If you’re feeling fussy or just want to chat up the willing staff, challenge them to come up with a custom drink based on your tastes and preferences. Great atmosphere, great drinks. To keep up to date with events they may host, check out their Facebook page.QG‑9, ul. Krucza 6/14, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 512 30 72 84, www.kitakoguta.pl. Open 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:0002:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun.

The Alchemist Grill & Cocktail Cocktail Bar

The drinks dreamed up in The Roots (p.89) may have you frothing at the mouth.

Jabeerwocky Craft Beer ‘Beware the Jabeerwocky...’, no wait, this one’s not a fictional monster, but a bare-brick dive bar found inside a fine residential building right in the city centre. And one worth checking out too with 17 taps offering some fine craft beers, and bottles of whiskey too! This is a great place to kick back with friends for some good chat, and if you’re desperate to watch some sports, they have a large projector screen and TV for you to stare at if the chat’s not good enough. Aside from the craft beers, they also have bourbon on the menu, along with some basic snacks. A separate room is open available to book out for closed parties, which can hold up to 35 people.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 12, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 254 31 07, www.jabeerwocky.pl. Open 14:00-24:00; Wed, Thu 14:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 14:0002:00; Sun 15:00-24:00. 6

Kita Koguta Cocktail Bar Even with the myriad of trendy drink bars around town it’s still a bit of a rarity to stumble upon a place where the staff seem permanently smiley, jolly and on the point of being certified 88

It’s still worth noting that this bar is where the plan for the future of drinking was hatched. The Alchemist’s patented ‘Beer Wall’ was the first of its kind in Europe; working with a handy ‘Beer Wall’ card, you can pour yourself as many drinks as you like from the 8 taps on the wall - local craft beer, cider and prosecco are typically represented. Futuristic guzzling gizmos aside, however, the signature cocktails that shimmer, swirl and smoke are where the Alchemist earns its name, and their awardwinning food (Gault & Millau 2020) makes this venue a must-visit. On the card are delicious burgers and steaks - innovative interpretations of American and British classics. If all this wasn’t enough, in the summer, it’s the spacious terrace that draws the locals to lounge around for hours enjoying the results of the Alchemist’s experimentation... QF‑5, Plac Piłsudskiego 3, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 628 00 23, www.thealchemist.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-00:00. TU6

The Legendary Jack’s Cinema Restaurant & Bar Cocktail Bar Bottles at the bar, bottles on the ceilings, and why not, considering your signature alcoholic drink is one of the world’s most recognisable brands? Not just a bar, this spot does some great American style grub, from burgers, steaks and BBQ ribs to fried chicken. What’s more, the quirk of this place is the cinema screen round back, great for films, live screenings of sports events or as a space for live music and other events. Come here for a drink, food, and definitely check out their events calendar on Facebook.QG‑8, ul. Bracka 18, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 400 28 23, www.jackscinema.pl. Open 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:0000:00. TUE6

Bars | Nightlife

The ROOTS Cocktail Bar & more Cocktail Bar While the cocktail revolution continues to shake and stir up Warsaw’s drinking habits, some places manage to stand out from the crowd. The ROOTS has, without a doubt, secured a very special place in the hearts of serious cocktail devotees, both local and international. For starters, the bar is a shrine to the noble art of being a barman/mixologist, for which reason you should definitely check out their intriguing collection of vintage and antique ‘tools of the trade’ – the collection of mixers alone already stands at nearly 100 items! Add to this a library of antiquarian books on the subject of bartending/cocktail mixing and you know you are dealing with some hardcore and very scholarly mixologists. ROOTS is so well-versed in the art of making cocktails, they have enough tricks for two great menus - one featuring classics of the trade and another which presents signature drinks based on seasonal regional flavours. Make sure you scrutinise both and ask for a recommendation at the bar. Food is also available in the form of a Polish fusion menu, which is intriguing enough to at least take a peak at. Quite brilliant!QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 33, www.therootsbar.com. Open 17:0024:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-02:00. 6

Weles Bar Cocktail Bar Walk casually past and you risk missing this hidden cocktail bar, whose very discreet entrance can be found in the back corner of an unassuming alleyway. Why, it’s almost as if they were trying to hide something...but don’t worry, there aren’t any prohibition-fab pseudo-speakeasy shenanigans at play here. Instead, walking through the big metal door takes you on a trip down into the underworld. Not literally, thankfully, but physically and figuratively, as you descend into the mysterious and hedonistic domain of Weles - Slavic god of the underworld, and pagan patron of magic, music and prosperity. The vibe is quite alternative for a bar where most of the patrons are drinking cocktails, and a scan of the room reveals a lot of black outfits, inked skin and moody makeup. A trip to the bar, where the staff mix the drinks with a mesmerising alchemic fluidity, is almost akin to initiation into some sacred ritual; we drank deep of Weles’ well and were converted. To say more would give away too much - visit on your own.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 602 77 39 97, www.welesbar.pl. Open 19:00-01:30; closed Mon. E 89

Nightlife | Clubs

Clubs Things that go bump in the night at SEN.

Clubs in Warsaw range from sedate to sinful, and we cover the full gamut here. A night spent clubbing means you’ll most likely greet the dawn because, unlike the closing times you might be used to, Polish clubs stay open until the sun comes up. Expect a cover charge at most venues that can range from 5-20zl depending on events, and note that toilet paper is often a luxury that seems to universally run out around 22:00.

Dekada Adventures and amorous encounters come guaranteed in this slice of Warsaw folklore, a direct result of the people found inside. Here it’s all 007 Barbie bombshells soaking up attention off expats twice their age, an interesting mix that combines for colourful nights. Watch the pantomime while sitting inside a 1950s tram, or else take your chances on a dance floor that packs out most nights – the musical menu changes daily, with weekends tending to err towards disco and chart sounds.QC‑10, ul. Grójecka 19/25, tel. (+48) 600 85 65 71, www.dekada.pl. Open Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00 only. XEw 90

Enklawa - The Legendary Nightlife

It may be quiet by day, but Mazowiecka is home to a number of the city’s top nightspots and high up the list comes Enklawa. Keeping their fingers on the pulse of current club trends, live music and fashion events it attracts a pretty classy and sassy weekend crowd, and to stay ahead of the game, they’ve recently undergone a big renovation, which includes some huge screen! If you can’t wait for Friday to come around, not a problem, hit the club as early as Wednesday to appease your desire! Inside, you’ll find 3 bars and a very spacious dancefloor, which you can enjoy, or watch over, from their VIP booths. Enklawa’s popularity means there may be a queue to get past the lads on the door, but once inside, you’ll find a unique atmosphere like no other venue in Warsaw.QF‑6, ul. Mazowiecka 12, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 31 51, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 22:00-05:00. XU

Read and review 160+ Nightlife venues iyp.me/193ch

Clubs | Nightlife Hulakula Indoor entertainment centre by day, and indoor entartainment centre by night - but at night, under a very different guise than its more family orientated daytime function. It may not immediately seem like it, but the idea to also use an entertainment centre as an altogether great night out for nightlife seekers is a top idea. The indoor space is huge and great at weekends with DJ sets. We wholeheartedly encourage you to check out their calendar for upcoming events. We guarantee you’ll be pleasantly surprised and definitely won’t be disappointed!QJ‑4, ul. Jagiellońska 82B, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 669 00 10 01, www.hulakula.com.pl. Open 16:00-22:00; Fri 16:0003:00; Sat 14:00-03:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. XU

Level 27 To anyone with vertigo, a word of warning: as the name suggests, this is not some dingy cellar club, but rather an ecstatic rooftop party that puts you in the centre of Warsaw’s skyline. Rated one of the best clubs in the world, Level 27 occupies the top floor of a modern skyscraper, and includes a 450m2 open-air terrace in the summer. A showcase for high society’s beautiful people, DJs typically spin R&B and hip hop, but anything can happen from fire shows to fashion runways (check their FB). Arrive early for an incredible sunset, or better yet, keep pace with these party people to see it come up again from the best vantage point in town. Are you on the level?QC‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. (+48) 733 66 10 94, www.level27.pl. Open Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00. E

NA LATO Day & Night Na Lato has long been a Powiśle favourite. The setting, both the location and the interior, work well, as they are pleasant on the eye and the soul. After a meal, sit back at the bar on a Fri/Sat, letting the night set in. Pre-pandemic and COVID-restrictions, Na Lato transformed into a dance floor, which has provided us with some very fond memories. Get well fed, or sit at the bar continuing what you were doing before. If that’s not enough, check out Jackpot Warsaw 777 on the premises, a heady mix of palm trees and 19th century Tennessee bar feel - very romantic, indeed. QI‑9/10, ul. Rozbrat 44A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 696 87 84 49, www.na-lato.com. Open 08:30-22:00; Fri 08:3003:00; Sat 10:00-03:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. X

SEN If you’ve come to SEN (PL for ‘dream’) to enjoy the restaurant (18:00-01:00), we give you a humble nod for making a solid choice, but if you’ve decided to stay and sup on the awesome cocktails, we salute

Autumn nights stay hot at Level 27.

you - you won’t be disappointed. Although not huge, the panoramic backdrop pairs up perfectly with the lounge vibe. There is a door selection, so dress to impress, and don’t be put off - the staff do their best to maintain the unique and positive character inside, which just adds to your enjoyment. The music’s great and the bar is well stocked, what’s not to enjoy? If you stay until the end, you may very well agree with the venue’s tag line: it was all a dream.QJ‑7, Ul. Wioślarska 6, MCentrum Nauki Kopernika, tel. (+48) 883 02 50 25, www.senwarsaw.pl. ; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Open Thu, Fri & Sat 18:00-05:00 only. XE

Smolna This bunkerlike club based on the Berlin techno model is situated in a grand old city centre townhouse, just seconds away from the landmark ‘palm tree’. The music delves deep into the murky world of all aspects of electronica but they’re a pretty radical and experimental group of folks, so you never know what musical journey they’ll whisk you through. Three dancefloors, including the outdoor patio space (the neighbours will love that one), three bars (cocktails included) and a chillout room make up this hugely popular venue. Keeping things enigmatic and secretive, they have a strict ‘no photos/no smartphone’ policy and pretty cryptic advertising clips which tell you nothing. The door policy is reasonable, simply in place to keep out aggressive yobos and anyone with a Nikon D5200 strapped around their neck. Expect queues, especially during weekends.QH‑8, ul. Smolna 38, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, www.smolna38.com. Open Fri, Sat 22:00-08:00 only. 91

Nightlife | Clubs

Silent disco at Syreni Śpiew

Syreni Śpiew One of Warsaw’s favourite venues of recent times has returned, with the mermaid’s song (from where the name hails) carrying across the river to its new location in Praga Koneser Center (p.49). The postindustrial style fits in with the revamped ethos of Syreni Śpiew; a place to take in the atmosphere and create memories. With 4 floors, 4 bars and 3 stages, this is the perfect spot to sip away and eat during the day, and then party the weekend away. Slide inside and let them ply you with upscale cocktails and top-shelf whiskies while you schmooze to some smooth tunes. While it’s a low-key high-class chill during the week, there are plenty of regular events to enjoy before the weekend vibe goes sublime with carefully curated live music and DJs (Fri, Sat) that keep the parties going all night long. Check their Facebook page for all the latest events.QK‑2, Plac Konesera 4, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 602 77 34 49, www.facebook.com/syrenispiew. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00. XUoE6

Teatro Cubano Warsaw The warm tropical Caribbean breeze has finally reached Warsaw in the form of the very first Cuban lounge and club. The giant palms outside flanking the entrance set the tone and as you enter the giant club you are enveloped by vibrant blues and yellows as the staircase takes you into the huge open spaced club with high ceilings. In the middle there’s a huge bar prominently featuring Havana Club rum, a likely sponsor of this jumping joint. Behind the bar is a massive stage which usually hosts regular international touring acts (many Caribbean!) as well as parties with DJ, mix of Latino and pop music. However, due to COVID-19, the dance floor part is closed until further notice. However, DJs are still spinning tunes and the bar is still operating with a colourful, friendly vibe. Stop by sometime!QF‑5, ul. Fredry 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 538 19 44 94, www.teatrocubano.com. Open 22:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 22:00-05:00. XE 92

Adult Entertainment | Nightlife

Adult Entertainment If you’re in Warsaw and simply have your mind set on going to a strip club, we advise you to stick to our recommendations, which are vetted and centrally-located. When it comes to these types of establishments, we’ve heard reports of 8,000zł being spent willingly in one club listed here, and another of 8,000 sterling being spent unwillingly in one we don’t list. As ever, we urge you to be mindful, mind your manners, deal only in cash, don’t let anyone order drinks for you, and generally keep your wits about you. A good rule of thumb is to avoid street solicitation of any kind, especially if it comes in the form of a sweet girl with an umbrella inviting you to a club for a ‘drink’; also don’t get roped into buying a drink unless you know its price and can afford it. If you’re going to the club of your choice by taxi, make sure the driver takes you to the correct club, and not one miles away with whom they have a partnership. Employ good common sense and we’re confident you’ll have a night to remember, not regret.

Playhouse Gentleman’s Club This smart gentlemen’s club, located in a chunky communist era building on al. Solidarności, has certainly hit the top of the tree (or pole?) with their classy approach to showing off the female form in luxurious surroundings. Their reputation in this market has even gone international, with influential website AskMen.com voting them the best strip club in the world in 2013! Three floors covering over 800m2, four bars, three VIP rooms, an in-house ATM and 57 sizzling hot women makes Playhouse THE place to visit for the discerning gent with a penchant for the erotic. Payment methods accepted: cash, card, Bitcoin and Paypal.QD‑5, Al. Solidarności 82A, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 794 00 70 00, www.playhouse.pl. Open 21:00-05:00. X

Sogo Club The largest of all the strip clubs in Warsaw at a size of 1200m2! It’s ridiculously easy to get to from any part of Warsaw. Simply head to the beginning of ul. Nowy Świat (G-8, at the Palm Tree) and you’ll see the brightly lit building in the distance. The place consists of three levels: the main hall containing two bars and hundreds of seats, and VIP rooms, and even conference facilities. Should you want more privacy, the Gold Club option provides private rooms with a dedicated lounge bar and washroom facilities! The club has their customers desires in mind and will stay open longer if you feel you simply cannot leave at 05:00!QH‑7, Al. Jerozolimskie 6, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 92 09, www.sogoclub.pl. Open 20:00-05:00. X 93

Shopping

HE Concept Store (p.95), where Polish and International design meet

Shopping in Warsaw Paris, London or New York it ain’t, but hard-core shoppers can still find plenty to spend their well-earned lolly on. Warsaw is seeing true growth in the array of shops available and the number of bigname labels that are opening storefronts. Whether it’s westernstyle malls, designer boutiques, dusty family stores or antique markets, a day spent shopping can result in both bargains and treasures. 94

Shopping

Amber & Jewellery Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line This gorgeous gallery specialises in luxury handcrafted jewellery of the amber variety, but crystal, silver and gold items can be purchased here too. This is the location of the largest and oldest amber dealer in the city, a family run business going back to 1988, proudly selling amber of Polish origin - certified by the International Amber Association. Even heads of State and royalty have been spotted procuring presents here, from Bill Clinton to Japanese princesses (whose thank you letters you can see inside)! Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top designers, plus high quality jewellery made with other precious stones. QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, www.warsawamber.pl. Open 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:0017:00.

Lilou Phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components and create a unique and personal piece. The range continues to grow, with the original idea of the personalised bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes - hearts, dogs, cats and the likes, and then have it hand engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you. A ‘must have’ item amongst local celebs and fashionistas. Also at ul. Francuska 27 (L-7), Westfield Arkadia (B/C-2), Galeria Mokotów and Sadyba Best Mall.QH‑9, ul. Mokotowska 63, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 506 19 08 97, www.lilouparis.com. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00.

Fashion & Accessories HE Concept Store A high-class location for a high-class boutique. Forget shoddy souvenirs, this is where you’ll find some of the best items Polish and international design has to offer - all of which are completely unique to HE Concept Store. Enter the European Boutiques zone of Raffles Hotel Europejski from Krakowskie Przedmieście into what feels like a museum, and descend the mysterious spiral stairs into what indeed appears to open up into an exhibition space of chic and sleek designer items from artworks, high-quality handmade items, accessories, gadgets, and top of the line fashion. There’s even a wine bar to buy, and even sample signature wines on the spot. All that’s

on offer will be a welcome gift to anyone with a keen eye on the latest trends.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 255 99 65, www.heconceptstore.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Sun.

Victoria’s Secret This boutique certainly needs no introduction. Even if you know nothing of fashion, you’ve no doubt heard of Victoria’s Secret, the brand that has become synonymous with stylish lingerie and glitzy angelwinged fashion shows. Warsaw, it seems, is delighted to have Poland’s only VS stores, and although previously their only boutiques in the city were on the smaller scale of grand, focusing mainly on accessories & perfumes, the new store in the city centre’s Złote Tarasy shopping mall is much bigger than before (now including Victoria’s Secret PINK), but the opening of Poland’s first VS flagship store in Westfield Arkadia Shopping Mall, with the full selection of clothing, including their lingerie, perfumes and accessories has gone down well with fashion bloggers and Varsovians alike! In Arkadia, you can’t miss it - it’s located right at the front entrance!QC‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 22 445 02 05, www. victoriassecret.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. 95

Shopping

Gifts & Souvenirs E-Manufaktura It’s sometimes hard to find that perfect gift from Poland to take back home with you. We understand the problem, and it may be the case you get home, only to regret not having bought that sweet little tea cup you had your eye on. Now this is why we whole heartedly recommend E-Manufaktura, which is not only a shop in Warsaw, but also an online shop for you to look through an extensive catalogue in the comfort of your home. From egg cups, plates, bowls, and all other kitchenware you can think of, you’ll find it here! The famous hand-painted ceramics, Bolesławiec, make up the core of what’s on offer. It doesn’t get more Polish than this. A must use service.QF‑3, ul. Freta 14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 636 06 84, www.e-manufaktura.com. Open 10:00-18:00.

Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki There are many great Polish gift ideas, but none as visually exciting as Bolesławiec pottery. With a mix of cups, plates, bowls and other kitchenware with various colours and designs, you can’t go wrong to buy friends, family, or even yourself one of these classic but quirky items. What’s more, at this location, not only do you get the chance to buy something of your pleasing, but you can join in some workshops to make your own! The studio is quite sizeable, wellkitted out, and whether you’re trying to recreate scenes from the film Ghost (not recommended in front of others) or perhaps the kids want to mess about and make anything they want and paint all over it (which is allowed, even encouraged), the end results are sure to raise a smile. The staff speak English and teach you the history of Bolesławiec pottery

Sunday Shopping Ban Since 2018 government regulations have increasingly restricted Sunday trading in Poland. In 2021 there are only 7 Sundays in the entire year when shops are allowed to be open. There are some exemptions from the ban, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, openair markets, Żabka convenience stores (most of which close at 23:00) and souvenir shops (oh thank god). Note that the Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep only on those Sundays when trade is allowed. 2021’s remaining shopping Sundays are: Dec 12 & 19. 96

during your session! Showing the Warsaw In Your Pocket guide/map, you will receive an in store 8% discount!QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 80 01 84, www.pomaluj.art. Open 12:0020:00; closed Sun.

Shopping Malls Designer Outlet Warszawa Probably one of the best-looking outlets we’ve seen in Poland, set inside a collection of buildings evoking the Baroque style of Warsaw’s Old Town. Indeed, this is a premium designer outlet, with the interior specifically made to make you feel like you’re walking through a classy little fashion street. Here you’ll find discounts ranging from 30% to a huge 70% on premium brands like Armani, Boss, Calvin Klein, Guess, Furla, KARL LAGERFELD, Liu Jo, Luisa Spagnoli, Michael Kors, Polo Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger through to lifestyle brands Adidas, Geox, Kazar, Levis, Nike, Salewa, Salomon, Timberland, 4F and many more. Found just 30 mins from Warsaw’s city centre, and 20 mins from Warsaw Chopin Airport, it’s easily reached by car and public transport - from the centre, travel south by car along ul. Puławska in the direction of Piaseczno, and by metro to Metro Wilanowska and then buses 709 or 727 onward to stop Energetyczna 01, using a zone 2 ticket.Qul. Puławska 42E, Piaseczno, MWilanowska, tel. (+48) 22 737 31 15, www.designeroutletwarszawa.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

Dom Mody KLIF The nationwide Klif chain have long been present in Warsaw, though if you think you’ve seen it all before then think again. Attracting fashion lovers for over 20 years offering a range of Polish and foreign boutiques; but as with all shopping centres, the proof comes in the pudding, i.e. the tenants. Now on show are top tags from MaxMara, Elisabetta Franchi to PennyBlack, as well as Michael Kors, Karl Lagerfeld, Castellani, Trzaska Luxury & Optics and DM Moda as well as well-known and respected mainstream brands such as H&M, Olsen and S’portofino. The draw, other than the brands, is the convenient and easy to get to location - roll in by tram, bus or car. What’s more, this is the only shopping centre to have a concierge point, all for the benefit of the shopper. For true connoisseurs, this year, Klif prepared a unique FASHION STUDIO, where anyone can use the services of stylists.QB‑4, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. (+48) 535 41 14 58, www.klif.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Eurospar open Mon-Sat 08:30-22:00; Sun 09:00-20:00.

Shopping

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang. Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand. Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 18k platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls. Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry. WARSZAWA, 63 Mokotowska Street, 27 Francuska Street, ARKADIA 82 Jana Pawła II Avenue, GALERIA MOKOTÓW 12 Wołoska Street, SADYBA BEST MALL 31 Powsińska Street.

lilouparis.com /bemylilou

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Warsaw In Your Pocket Guide_ Autumn 2021

Articles inside

Shopping

Clubs � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �

Bars � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �

Adult Entertainment � � � � � � � � � �

New & Featured � � � � � � � � � � �

Vegan & Vegetarian � � � � � � � � � �

Food Markets � � � � � � � � � � � �

Casual Dining � � � � � � � � � � � �

Fine Dining � � � � � � � � � � � � �

New & Featured � � � � � � � � � � �

Traditional Polish Dishes � � � � � � � �

Breakfast & Brunch

Day Trips from Warsaw

Powiśle Walking Tour � � � � � � � � �

Kids & Families

Activities & Experiences

Warsaw Uprising � � � � � � � � � � �

Jewish Warsaw � � � � � � � � � � � �

Wilanów � � � � � � � � � � � � � �

The Royal Route � � � � � � � � � � �

Transport

The Golden Polish Autumn in Warsaw � � �

What’s On in Warsaw: Autumn 2021 � � � �

Old Town Walking Tour � � � � � � � � �

Essential Warsaw � � � � � � � � � � �

Warsaw Breweries: A cosmopolitan feast � �

Such a Landscape: Wilhelm Sasnal at POLIN �

Foreword