Warsaw In Your Pocket Guide Spring 2022 by Poland In Your Pocket

Maps

Sightseeing

Activities

Warsaw

Dining

Nightlife

SINCE 1992

City Guide

No. 121, Spring 2022

Urban Parks & Outdoor Markets p.10 Sizing up the City Centre

p.18

Close-up on Jewish Cuisine

p.50

Shopping

STORES IN WARSAW: Złote Tarasy, Złota 59. Westfield Arkadia, Al. Jana Pawła II 82.

victoriassecret.pl

Contents

Warsaw Feature

Signs of Spring

p.10

Picnicking at Warsaw Breakfast Market (p.12).

Introducing Warsaw How to Use This Guide

Features

p.6 p.7

Breakfast & Brunch Restaurants

Urban Greens & Gastro Parks Jewish Culinary Culture at POLIN Traditional Polish Dishes

p.10 p.50 p.66

New & Featured Fine Dining Casual Dining Food Markets

Transport Sightseeing

p.14

Nightlife

Essential Warsaw City Centre Old Town Walking Tour The Royal Route Powiśle Łazienki Park Wilanów Praga

Art, History & Culture

p.17 p.18 p.24 p.30 p.36 p.40 p.44 p.46

Art Tourism Current Exhibitions Museums Jewish Warsaw Warsaw Uprising

p.49 p.51 p.52 p.56 p.58

Activities & Experiences

p.60 p.62

Kids & Families

p.64 p.69 p.70 p.74 p.78

New & Featured Bars Clubs Adult Entertainment

p.81 p.85 p.86 p.89

Shopping

p.90

Maps City Map City Centre Map Old Town Map Royal Route Map Powiśle Map Łazienki Map Wilanów Map Praga Map

p.8 p.19 p.25 p.31 p.37 p.40 p.45 p.46 5

Welcome to Warsaw Commerce, Catholicism, Judaism and cafe culture intersect at Plac Grzybowski (p.20).

There’s no denying it, Warsaw has had a troubled history. Positioned at the crossroads of Central Europe, the city has been shuffled between empires and dynasties like a pawn on a chessboard. It’s been a roller coaster ride ever since King Sigismund III Vasa moved his court here from Kraków in 1569, making Warsaw the new Polish capital. Pillaged by the Swedes in the 17th century, and occupied by the Russians for most of the 19th century, Poland finally returned to the map of Europe in 1918. The interwar period signalled a golden age for Warsaw, and saw the city develop on a par with Europe’s other great capitals. WWII soon brought new suffering, however. Occupied by Nazi Germany, Warsaw saw its cultural monuments defiled or stolen, and its Jewish population of 350,000 systematically exterminated. With liberation in sight, the Polish population rose against occupying German forces in the 1944 Uprising. Expected help from the West never materialised, and Soviet tanks looked on from the right bank of the Wisła as the full weight of the Nazi army crushed the rebellion. The Uprising cost the lives of 150,000 civilians, and the city was razed to ruin in reprisal. When the fires were squelched and the dust had settled, German occupation had been merely traded for communist oppression as Poland fell under the Soviet sphere of influence for the next four decades, and Warsaw was rebuilt in stagnant, socialist fashion, earning a reputation as a gloomy city of concrete. But that was then, this is now. Combining intriguing elements of East and West, past and future, Warsaw is a modern metropolis of complex character and rich rewards for those who get to know it. The grey, dreary images of yesteryear no longer apply as the city restlessly evolves, buzzing with energy and optimism. Whether you are here to explore trendsetting urban renewal projects or the treasures of the Old Town, enjoy world-class dining or boutique shopping, you’ll hardly be disappointed by what the modern capital has to offer. Enjoy Warsaw! 6

Introducing Warsaw

How to Use This Guide

Cover Story

Warsaw In Your Pocket is designed to provide you with all of the ideas, tools and information you need to explore the city on your own, stay offline as much as possible, and really connect with the city you’re visiting. Although it may be Poland’s least walkable city, we still believe that the best way for visitors to discover any city is on foot, and we’ve designed our Warsaw guide accordingly. Our Sightseeing chapter is organised into geographic areas of interest with detailed district maps to help you navigate them. District tours include descriptions of all the most important sites, plus local tips on where to eat and drink in each area. There are also intriguing ‘Crossroads’ moments that allow you to be lured towards alternative adventures, either on foot or via public transport. Throughout the guide, page references are liberally used to lead you to related info on a topic elsewhere in the guide, while QR codes will take you to our website when we feel there’s more to know than can be expressed in print. Each venue listing includes a map coordinate (E-8, for example) that correlates to the city map on p. 8.

Warsaw IYP Online Of course, space in our print guide is a finite resource, but if you don’t find what you’re searching for here, we’re confident you’ll find it on our website. Visit warsaw.inyourpocket.com for more info about the capital, and poland.inyourpocket.com to see just how much of the country we cover. Here are some Warsaw articles we wish we had room for in print this issue:

Publisher & Staff IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 12,000 copies published every 2 months

Multimedia Fountain Park (p.62) with Warsaw’s soaring City Centre skyline in the background, as captured by DroneInWarsaw.com; fb.com/droneinwarsaw

Remembering the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising This April is the 79th anniversary of the Warsaw Jewish community’s valiant, defiant and fatal effort to go not with a whimper, but with a bang. Learn the history, and where to see visible traces of the Ghetto and Uprising in today’s Warsaw.

Polish Easter Traditions Get familiar with all of the colourful customs, festivities and foods - from basket blessings to water fights - of what is arguably Poland’s most important religious holiday.

Editor: Garrett Van Reed Contributors: Michał Pakulniewicz, Pierre Duyker Sales Consultant: Jarek Śliwiński (+48) 606 749 643 Events & Marketing: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 879 494 Research: Magdalena Kumala, Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Copyright Notice All content copyright IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o Sp.k. and its partners, unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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Signs of Spring:

Urban Greens & Gastro Parks Marconi’s fountain at the centre of Saxon Garden.

The Poles have a rather corny turn of phrase that always comes to mind this time of year: Wiosna, ach to ty! (Spring, ahh, it’s you!). Immortalised in song by popular tunesmith Marek Grechuta, despite being an absolutely ridiculous exclamation, this saying aptly captures the collective ecstasy all Poles feel when the long, gloomy winter gives way to spring’s natural rebirth and cultural awakening. After a sort of societal hibernation, and none more protracted than the last two years thanks to COVID-19, suddenly (ach!) flowers and beer garden umbrellas are in bloom, temperatures and hemlines are on the rise, merchants, musicians and melodies fill the public squares, couples are caterwauling along the boulevards, events are back on, the capital is bursting with energy and simultaneously basking in its release. It’s certainly a great time to travel, but why visit an urban centre full of glass and concrete when you could choose one of the greenest cities on the European continent instead? Warsaw, ach to ty! 10

Urban Parks & Greenery The 2018 Travelbird Green Cities Index ranked Warsaw as the 12th greenest city in the world, while the Husqvarna Urban Green Space Index ranks Warsaw 18th out of 171 European cities; the only cities of over 1 million inhabitants that did better were Prague, Hamburg and Munich. With 51% of the city covered in greenery for an average of 134.4m2 of green space per resident, Warsaw well exceeds the likes of New York City (19m2) or Paris (a pathetic 9.8m2), despite the two metropolises having iconic urban parks. Though they may not be as famous, Warsaw is home to its share of iconic parks as well, so let’s take a look at the best places in the capital to celebrate spring, and do some sightseeing while we’re at it.

Signs of Spring Łazienki Park

Skaryszewski Park

Where else would we start? Łazienki is not only Warsaw’s most famous park, but also its largest at 76ha, and right in the city centre. This glorious green space is not only home to peacocks and adorable red squirrels, but is also packed with 18th century palaces, monuments and royal art collections. In fact, the lush, hilly premises are a bit of an architectural scavenger hunt where you can find Warsaw’s oldest theatre, a Greek temple, Egyptian temple, Chinese Garden, and much more. Beginning in mid-May, locals flock to Łazienki with blankets and picnic baskets to hear free open-air piano concerts under the park’s famous Chopin monument every Sunday at 12:00. With so many opportunities for recreation and sightseeing, we’ve devoted 4 pages to this must-visit park, beginning on p.40.QH-11.

Time for a ride across the river, to a place few tourists tend to tread. Shame that, as Skaryszewski Park was ranked by self-proclaimed park experts Briggs & Stratton as Poland’s most beautiful urban park in 2009; in fact, it placed third on the entire continent. We’ll defer to their expertise, as it is a fine park indeed, full of wide tree-lined alleys, man-made hills, handsome statuary, landscaped flowerbeds, charming bridges, waterfalls and picturesque lakes where you can rent kayaks and pedalboats. The right bank’s largest green space at 58ha, there may not be any palaces, but it does boast its own amphitheatre and is absolutely loaded with monuments, most notably a bust of famous pianist, patriot and politician Ignacy Jan Paderewski at the park’s entrance. Other monuments include a memorial to the Polish victims of the September 11 attacks, and another commemorating British pilots whose B-24 Liberator was shot down here in August 1944 while delivering supplies to the Polish resistance during the Warsaw Uprising.

Saxon Garden Located just off the Royal Route (p.30), this historic 15.5ha park is the oldest in the city, and became one of the first public parks in the world when it opened to everyone in 1727. At that time it was a Baroque Park in the French-style with the grandiose Saxon Palace playing a role very similar to the Palace of Versailles in Paris’ famous park. Like Łazienki, the park also included several other palaces and pavilions, all of which were sadly obliterated by the Nazis during WWII and never rebuilt. Despite this absence, Saxon Garden today is one of Warsaw’s best urban retreats, offering an antidote to the capital’s urban din, plenty of shade, lots of benches and more than a few points of interest.

Located next to the popular district of Saska Kępa, the southwest corner of the park leads right to the neighbourhood’s trendy high street, ul. Francuska (L‑7), where you’ll find plenty of hip cafes and restaurants, as well as some of the best ice cream in the city. Fans of modernist architecture and charming villas are encouraged to explore this affluent but artsy area. QL-5/6.

Foremost among the latter is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier - the only surviving remnant of Saxon Palace and once part of its lower colonnade. Here the ashes of unidentified soldiers who died for the Polish cause are interred and an eternal flame is kept lit, guarded by stone-faced soldiers. If you enjoy a bit of military theatre, you can watch the official changing of the guard every hour, on the hour, 365 days a year. More impressive (in our opinion) is the large fountain located just behind the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Created in 1855 by renowned Warsaw architect Henryk Marconi, this fountain is and was the centrepiece of the gardens, the alleys of which are lined with blooming flowers, ancient trees (many of which survived the war) and neoclassical sculptures. Lastly, in the northwestern part of the park, on a little hill, you’ll find the park’s Water Tower, also designed by Marconi in 1825. If the structure reminds you of an ancient Roman building, you’re quite right – it’s modeled on the famous Temple of Vesta in Tivoli.QF-6.

Tancerka (Dancing Girl), by Stanisław Jackowski, 1927; Skaryszewski Park.

Signs of Spring

Outdoor Food Fairs The arrival of warmer weather is also the signal for Warsaw’s outstanding open-air food markets to resume operations. An increasingly popular urban trend, these hip gastro markets are as much about socialising as they are about shopping for local food products or filling your belly, and definitely worth checking out if you’re brave enough to go beyond the centre of town. If you’re here ahead of the season or the weather’s rubbish, you can (and should) always check out one of the city’s plentiful indoor food halls as well (p.78).

Breakfast Market They say it’s the most important meal of the day, but in Warsaw it’s also a cultural experience. We’re talking about the Breakfast Market (Targ Śniadaniowy), which offers foodies a range of delicious day starters from dozens of local food producers, farms, restaurants and catering companies. Taking place in neighbourhood parks, mingle with locals, explore new parts of town and get your grub on by creating a picnic spread from the fresh foods on sale here, or choose from an array of ready-to-eat meals from local producers as well. A highly social event, the Breakfast market caters to families by organising events for kids and

other attractions. Best of all, you don’t have to get there early. Occurring on weekends beginning from April 2nd, on Saturdays 09:00-16:00 you’ll find the Breakfast Market near Plac Inwalidów (corner of Al. Wojska Polskiego and ul. Śmiała) in the leafy Żoliborz area; on Sundays from 10:00-17:00, the Market moves to the park area of Skwer AK Granat in Mokotów. Qwww.targsniadaniowy.pl.

Nocny Market If family-friendly isn’t your vibe, Warsaw’s legendary Nocny Market (Night Market) may be more to your taste. Occupying an abandoned railway platform, Nocny Market aims for the atmosphere of a Beijing street market and the vibe of a Berlin club to create a cult Warsaw institution. The largest street food market in PL, this a full-on feast for the senses where you’re guided by colourful neon lights, tantalising smells assault your nose as you wander from stall to stall, live bands and DJs set the mood, and intoxicating drinks pour forth from the fully stocked bars. If you really want an experience you can’t forget you can even get a tattoo here. With a huge diversity of culinary offerings from around the world, this is definitely one of Warsaw’s coolest places to eat, drink and ‘chill’ when the weather warms. Typically starting in mid-May, to get there take a tram to ‘Pl. Zawiszy’ and walk towards ‘Warszawa Główna’ train station. Alternatively, take the Metro to ‘Rondo Daszyńskiego’ and walk the short distance. Use warsaw.jakdojade.pl for live transit connections. QC-9, ul. Towarowa 3, fb.com/nocnymarket. Open Thu 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-01:00; Sun 16:00-23:00.

Slow Market Lastly, May brings the return of Slow Market to the left-bank Vistula Boulevards. This huge multicultural culinary market offers a bounty of tastes from Warsaw’s best local eateries, food concepts and caterers. A street food fair on the river, there is always something for everyone, as long as you have good taste. Open late on weekends, this place tends to turn into a bit of a party after hours, making it a great nightlife option on warm evenings.

Nocny Market

Last year Slow Market was located in Solec near the Słonka ferry station (K-8), but it’s a bit early at press time to confirm if they’ll stay rooted there for 2022, so best check online for updates and events. Organised by Jestem Slow (jestemslow.pl), they also do monthly vintage markets at Elektrownia Powiśle (p.38), so check them out to see if you’re lucky. Qwww.slowmarket.pl. Open Fri 18:00-02:00, Sat 12:0002:00, Sun 12:00-22:00.

Signs of Spring

Transport

Warsaw is Poland’s most navigable city by far. | Photo by Adam Borkowski.

Warsaw Metro Tentative construction on a metro system in Warsaw first began in 1938, but WWII stopped its progress and created other priorities for postwar communist authorities. In 1995 - almost 60 years since work first began - the north-south M1 line finally opened, and has steadily grown to 21 stations. The east-west M2 line, intersecting the M1 at Metro Świętokrzyska, opened in 2015 and now consists of 13 stations, with plans for 18 by the end of 2022. An M3 line is also in the works. Tickets for the Metro are the same as for trams and buses, and can be bought from automated machines outside each station. To reach the platform you must pass through the gates; enter your ticket into the gate to validate it and hang on to the returned ticket until you leave the underground. Metro stations are labelled on our maps, and the station closest to each venue is listed with the M icon in the details after most venue descriptions.Qwww.metro.waw.pl.

Travelling around Warsaw by bus, metro and tram is efficient, fast and cheap; driving a car through the centre, on the other hand, can be confusing indeed, and the capital is best negotiated on foot, by public transport or taxi. For detailed information about Warsaw’s airports and train stations, visit our website: www. inyourpocket.com/warsaw/travel-info

Public Transport Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system, as well as a good metro system with the M1 line running north-south and M2 running east-west. Over 1,500 buses operate in and around the city, and run 05:0023:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops. Standardised tickets are valid for use on the metro, buses and trams, and can be bought from machines with instructions in English at all metro stations, and some bus and tram stops. Tickets can also be purchased from machines on the actual buses and trams, where you can pay by card, or using exact change only. A standard single fare costs 4.40zł, or 3.40zł for a 20min ticket. If you’re travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll need a 7zł ticket that covers both zones 1 and 2 (note that the airport is still in Zone 1). Tickets valid for 24 hours, 3 days and a special ‘weekend’ ticket might also be worth considering. Those over 70 ride

Transport for free, as do children up until the end of September of the year they turn 7, but you must have photo ID (those who ride free still need a ticket/’wejściówka’ to get through the gates of the metro - find dispensers next to the gates). Everyone else pays full fare, unless you have an ISIC card which entitles you to a reduced fare (‘ulgowy’ ticket). Once you’re through the electronic gates of the metro, you’re ready to ride. For buses and trams, however, there’s one extra step - validating your ticket immediately once you’re on board in the small ‘kasownik’ boxes on trams and buses. Plain clothes ticket inspectors stalk the lines, dishing out hefty fines for those without valid tickets. They often don’t look very official and you are within your rights to request identification.Qwww.ztm.waw.pl.

Car & Bike Hire Traficar Car Share Want your own car, but just for a short while? Download the Traficar app, find an empty vehicle, scan the QR code, and you’re in. You can leave the car in any legal parking space within their service zone, and you don’t have to pay for gas! Everything is done through their easy-to-use app (in Polish only). In terms of cost versus a taxi, it comes out about the same, but as an alternative to car rental, Traficar is a wonder. You can rent a vehicle for 24 hours for only 59zł and even drop it off in another city where Traficar operates. As such, this is a great option for day and weekend trips, big shopping trips, or simply picking up friends at the airport. Note that you need to have a valid driver’s license that is recognised in PL.Qwww.traficar.pl. Prices are calculated as 2.99zł to start a journey, plus 1.50zł/km; 0.15zł/min when parked (0.01/min 23:00-07:00).

Veturilo Public Bike Warsaw has cemented its big-city credentials with a fleet of 5,000+ bikes at over 300 stations (including 10 electric bike stations). Veturilo is ridiculously easy: once you’ve registered online and paid the initial 10zł fee, you can visit any of the stations, select your ride, scan the bike’s QR code and you’re off! For standard bikes the first 20mins are free, and from there you pay 1zł for 21-60 minutes, 3zł for the second hour, 5zł for the third, and 7zł for each hour after that up to 12 hours; electric bikes are more expensive. When you’re done, pop your bike back into the stand at any of the stations, or if the stands are full, confirm your return via the station’s machine and use the bike chain to secure it to another bike.Qwww.veturilo.waw.pl. Available from March 1 to November 30.

Useful Transport Tools e-podroznik.pl Travelling around Poland is becoming easier! With a host of services available to ease your travel woes, one of the best is e-podroznik (e-traveller). This is your one stop shop for planning and buying tickets for all major cross-country travel in Poland whether it be by bus or train. You can search timetables and buy tickets online by visiting en.e-podroznik.pl or download their app.

Jakdojade Warsaw’s metro, bus and tram network is incredibly easy to use; and it’s made easier with the skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the Warszawa.jakdojade.pl site and app. The former is a great tool for advance planning, but the app is more practical for figuring out how to get from A to B once you’re out in town. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically), destination, departure time, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there.

Scooter Rental Love them or loathe them, motorised scooters are everywhere across Warsaw, even if the service providers don’t necessarily play by the rules and inform city authorities of their arrival. Now that they’re here, scooters are offered by Bird.co, CityBee.pl, RideHive.com and Li.me, and all you need to do is download their apps, register your personal data and payment details, find their locations via the app, scan the QR code and away you go. Each company has its own pricing policies, so best check their sites for more information. Wherever you go with your scooter, don’t be that guy weaving between people and cars saying ‘sorry, dude!’ to everyone. Once done, park neatly to avoid angering locals.

Uber If you’re already an Uber user (uber.com), you’ll find that the alternative taxi service - whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash, no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage across Warsaw and all of Poland, however there are some drawbacks. Specifically, Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for slightly cheaper rates. 15

Sightseeing | Essential Warsaw

Old and new converge in this drone view of the Old Town Market Square (p.28) and city skyline.

Warsaw Sightseeing When it comes to Sightseeing, visitors should be sure to experience the dynamic synergy of Warsaw as a modern metropolis that still nurtures its cultural spirit and traditions. To this end, our guide details the capital’s most important districts, walking you through not only the antiquated Old Town (p.24), regal Royal Route (p.30) and the imperial beauty of Łazienki (p.40) and Wilanów (p.44), but also around the soaring, frenetic City Centre (p.18) and scruffy Praga (p.46). If your time is limited, however, here’s a cheat sheet of the city’s most unmissable sights. 16

Essential Warsaw | Sightseeing

9 Essential Sights 1

Plac Zamkowy

Old Town Square

Vistula Boulevards

Łazienki Park

More of a triangle than a square, and home to the Royal Castle, this popular plac is where modern Warsaw meets the Old Town.QSee p. 25. A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ of Warsaw’s golden days, the Old Town is also symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the ruins of WWII.QSee p. 28. Warsaw’s left-bank boulevards are a favourite haunt of the locals - go and see why - walk, ride, or just chill on the riverside steps. Wow.QSee p. 37. Full of incredible art and architecture this massive park and palace complex offers spectacular opportunities for sightseeing or simply relaxing.QSee p. 41.

Wilanów Palace

POLIN

Copernicus Science Centre

Warsaw Rising Museum

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17thcentury royal palace 10km to the south.QSee p. 44. 1000 years of Jewish history in Poland is chronicled in this excellent museum where the Jewish Ghetto stood during WWII.QSee p. 57. One of the city’s top attractions, this fun family science centre is bursting with interactive exhibits and includes a state-of-the-art planetarium.QSee p. 39. Chronicling the heroism and tragedy of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, this modern museum packed with multimedia displays is one of the best in PL.QSee p. 59.

Palace of Culture & Science

Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’, this 237 metre structure takes its inspiration from the capitalist world, namely the Empire State Building. Over 5,000 workers were ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a purpose-built village in Jelonki during its construction. Working around the clock, it took just three years to finish the Palace in 1955. Despite this Olympian effort, Stalin didn’t live to see his pet project completed. Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing 3,288 rooms, the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just party headquarters but also as ‘The People’s Castle.’ Regardless, the building became a local object of hatred and was seen as no more than a symbol of Russian hegemony. In addition to the theatres, bars and museums on the ground level, visitors can tour the building, or head straight to the viewing terrace on the 30th floor. To get there you’ll need a ticket, which gets you a ride in a small old-school lift, complete with attendant. QE‑8, Pl. Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Open 10:00-19:00. Viewing terrace open 10:00-20:00; terrace admission 20/15zł. U

Sightseeing | Warsaw City Centre

Warsaw City Centre Known locally as ‘Śródmieście,’ Warsaw’s City Centre isn’t exactly a district (it comprises several, actually), but more of a catch-all term for the downtown area. Definitions vary, but generally, you know it when you’re in it - wide streets, huge monumental buildings and skyscrapers, construction sites, billboards, busy crosswalks and little to stand in the way of progress. It’s the modern, fast-paced, forward-looking part of the city radiating out from the Palace of Culture & Science, and it’s here that you’ll find the majority of the city’s hotels, restaurants and bars, but also government buildings, skyscrapers and places of commerce - the dynamic heart of the contemporary capital. In terms of tourism, it’s not exactly inviting, so why start here? Well, you’re already in it, aren’t you? Chances are you’re staying is in the City Centre, so let’s get familiar with what’s around before running off to the Old Town (p.24), shall we? Despite not being particularly cosy or nostalgic, there are still many points of interest and nowhere conveys the modern character of the Polish capital more than the City Centre.

Places to Explore 1

Plac Defilad

Most people arrive to the Polish capital via Warszawa Centralna train station, which, together with the Palace of Culture (p.17), basically comprises Warsaw City Centre’s ground zero. Plac Defilad is the vast, mostly undeveloped concrete and asphalt mess standing in and around the Palace of Culture, but particularly 18

the east side. As the name ‘Parade Square’ hints, this mostly empty plot was created by PRL planners in the 1950s, along with the Palace of Culture. Measuring 24ha, it was until recently the second largest public square in the EU, though no one would have mistaken it for a proper square. For years it’s mostly been parking, but plenty of historical events have taken place here, from communist era propaganda parades, to rallies of hundreds of thousands for Pope John Paul II, to Christmas markets, ice rinks and New Year’s Eve concerts. After years debate about what to do with it, part of the square is currently under construction as the future home of the Museum of Modern Art. Until that happens we don’t suggest hanging around here, unless you’re on your way to the top of the Palace of Culture. If you’re not a fan of all this urban hubbub, you can escape directly by heading through the time portal of the nearby Photoplasticon (p.63). QF‑8, MCentrum.

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Sightseeing | Warsaw City Centre 2

Plac Grzybowski

This delightful square connects the city’s past to its present and unites the worlds of commerce, religion, entertainment and art. The main attraction is the 19th century Renaissance All Saints’ Church. From 1941 it was inside the Warsaw Ghetto and Priest Fr. Monsignor Marceli Godlewski housed Jews in the rectory and assisted several to escape. Rebuilt after the war, the entire square has been recently renovated and today features dozens of benches, neatly landscaped grassy areas and even a pond with a waterfall. Very well lit, it’s a wonderful place to relax or enjoy the many bars and cafes that surround it, day or night. Joining the square is ul. Próżna, the only full street that survived the Jewish Ghetto. It remained derelict, however, in recent years, one side was restored to its pre-war splendour, while the second side awaits revival. It is here in the former heart of the Jewish Warsaw (p.56) that the Singer Jewish Culture Festival takes place each year in late August/early September. QE‑7, MŚwiętokrzyska. 3

Plac Piłsudskiego

Used over the centuries for military parades and national celebrations, what is today Warsaw’s largest square once sat in front of the grand Saxon Palace. Destroyed during World War II, the only part of the palace that remains today is used to shelter the eternal flame and Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The square is named after legendary inter-war Polish leader, Marshal Józef Piłsudski; you’ll find his statue at the far end facing the tomb with a sombre gaze. The square itself has undergone many name changes thanks to the altering political landscape, including during Nazi occupation when it was called ‘Adolf Hitler Platz.’ During the era of Partitions, the huge orthodox St. Nevsky Cathedral was built here; considered a symbol of Russian oppression, it was razed after Poland regained its independence. It was here too that in 1979, the newly appointed Polish Pope John Paul II gave an open-air holy mass to 500,000 people, instilling hope in the struggle against the repressive communist system. In 2018, two new monuments were added - both relating to the tragic and highly politicised Smoleńsk Air Disaster in which a plane carrying 96 members of a Polish government delegation crashed in the Russian forest in 2010; everyone on board perished, including President Lech Kaczyński, whose monument gazes upon that of the other victims. The square leads directly into the charming 4 Saxon Garden, more info on which you’ll find on p.11.QF‑6. 20

Hala Mirowska & Hala Gwardii

Major Warsaw landmarks, these two massive brick market halls were constructed between 1899 and 1901 on the instruction of Russian mayor Nikolai Bibikov. Together they functioned as Warsaw’s largest market up until the outbreak of the Warsaw Uprising. Though ravaged by fire, the walls refused to give way and the buildings survived - check out the bullet scars still all too visible on the corner of Pl. Mirowski and Jana Pawła II. A bus depot in the post-war years, Hala Mirowska resumed original purpose in the 1950s and a visit today feels a bit like a trip back to those days, thanks to the communist era shops selling cheap goods and lines of country folk selling jars of mushrooms out of their vans. The outdoor produce market is absolutely worth it, however, and full of fresh produce coming in from the countryside; the supermarkets can’t compete in terms of quality or quantity. Hala Gwardii meanwhile has been turned into a trendy weekend food hall (p.79), but a far cry grimier than most of the capital’s similar enterprises. The dichotomy is unique as this place strains to modernise, but stays true to its roots. QD‑6, Pl. Mirowski 1, MRondo ONZ. Open 07:00-18:00; Sat 07:00-15:00; closed Sun. 6

Browary Warszawskie

Once one of Central Europe’s most famous brewing complexes, this 4.5ha area has been revitalised into a trendy urban culture and gastronomy district, densely packed with dozens of restaurants, cafes, bakeries, delicatessens and shops. Mixing bold new architecture with restored historical buildings, postindustrial design with public green spaces, the heart of this ‘city within the city’ is Food Hall Browary - 12 contemporary gastro concepts in the former brewery cellars (p.78). The historic Browar Warszawski (Warsaw Brewery, p.74) itself has also been revived and is once again producing craft beers (19 different types!) for

Browary Warszawskie

Warsaw City Centre | Sightseeing

local hopheads. Other highlights include a sports bar part owned by Robert Lewandowski (Nine’s) and dinner entertainment at Baila Show & Dining. Check online for events - there’s always something brewing at Browary.QC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 58, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.browarywarszawskie.com.pl. 7

Plac Europejski & Warsaw Spire

One Warsaw’s newest public social spaces, European Square was created as part of the development of the impressive Warsaw Spire - Poland’s 3rd-tallest skyscraper at 220m. Both the square and the office building have won awards from industry authorities and local residents for their design. Located just a short distance from the ‘Rondo Daszyńskiego’ metro station, the small square has a lot of features: trees, benches, fountains, reflecting pools, two large murals, an amphitheatre, a unique Art Walk gallery where changing exhibits are displayed, and an iconic 3D Instagram-baiting installation that says ‘Kocham Warszawę’ (I Love Warsaw). What’s more, there’s something happening year-round, including concerts, film screenings, frequent live sports transmissions and an ice rink in winter. Of course there are cafes, bars and food options as well, making this a very unique and worthwhile place to hang out in Warsaw’s business district.QC‑7, MRondo Daszyńskiego.

8 Fabryka Norblina NEW The latest of several highly successful urban renewal projects in Warsaw, and maybe the most diverse and exciting. This former industrial site covering an area of 2ha was once one of the largest enterprises in the Kingdom of Poland, with a long, complex history that dates back to the 1840s. The Norblin, Buch Brothers and T. Werner Factory (to give its full name) produced a wide range of metal, tin and silver-plated goods, ranging from the utilitarian (cutlery, dishes, teapots) to true works of art. Until recently a neglected pearl of post-industrial architecture, massive investment has turned the area into a lively modern centre of commerce, culture, entertainment and gastronomy. Over 24,000m2, visitors will find an truly impressive multimedia museum about the site’s industrial history - including exhibits of unique plated goods and historical machinery, the largest Apple Museum in the world, a trendy Food Town with 23 gastronomy concepts from around the globe, the BioBazaar ecomarket and bistro, the Kinogram boutique cinema, ArtBox Experience, a fitness centre, shops, cafes, a full calendar of events and more. Opened as recently as September 2021, this truly is the astounding cutting edge of Warsaw’s urban culture, so check it out. QC/D‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.fabrykanorblina.pl.

Sightseeing | Warsaw City Centre 9

Plac Konstytucji

A wonderful spectacle of socialist realist architecture, Constitution Square was constructed between 195052 to be an ‘expression of creative optimism and peaceful work within the socialist system.’ Its real purpose was to serve as a focal point for the frequent state parades, which would go from here down ul. Marszałkowska to Plac Defilad (Parade Square) in front of The Palace of Culture and Science. The reality of this plan was short-lived, as it’s been a car park since the 1960s. Lovely, huh? Quite an anomaly in the urban fabric of Warsaw, Constitution Square was the crowning glory of the Marszałkowska Housing District - the first housing district to be completed out of the complete devastation of WWII. It was quite an achievement and heralded as a big success at the time. In terms of sightseeing, there isn’t much aside from the austere PRL grandeur of it all. Dominated by three monumental street lamps looking like giant tridents, you’ll still see some socialist mosaics here and there, but things get even better along the tail end of ul. Marszałkowska, leading to Plac Zbawiciela, where socialist reliefs of workers line the street.QG‑10, MPolitechnika. 10

Plac Zbawiciela

Like Plac Konstytucji, after the war this star-shaped roundabout became dominated by PRL-era buildings from the 1950s, but still harbours a couple gems.

Inside the Warsaw University of Technology.

The first is the conspicuous Church of the Holiest Saviour, from which the square takes its name (Saviour Square). Built in neo-Renaissance style in the 1920s, that it stands is a marvel, considering it was dynamited by the Nazis during WWII and then tagged for demolition by the communists. The other pre-war building here is the handsome Jasieńczyk-Jabłoński tenement (Mokotowska 12), erected in 1910. Upon completion, it was not only one of the most modern, but also the tallest residential building in Warsaw (38 m). From 2012–2015, Julita Wójcik’s “Rainbow” art installation notably soared over Plac Zbawiciela. A 9m high 26m wide rainbow made of plastic flowers, the piece proved too controversial for PL’s anti-LGBT factions, who repeatedly lit it on fire until it was removed. Though there are plans to replace it with a fireproof version, the current political climate doesn’t seem conducive to its return for the moment. Despite that unpleasantness, Saviour Square today is quite the progressive meeting place for students, artists and activists who favour the hip bars here like Plan B (Al. Wyzwolenia 18) and Charlotte (Al. Wyzwolenia 18/2U)..QG‑10, MPolitechnika. 11

Warsaw University of Technology

The historic main building of what’s known locally as Politechnika Warszawska is an absolute wonder of neo-baroque architecture designed by Stefan Szyller at the turn of the 18/19th centuries. This stout, sturdy two-story building with its unique rounded corners survived WWII bombing and was quickly retouched after the war. Its magnificent facade features an array of architectural embellishments they just don’t teach the kids inside anymore: sculptures, bas-reliefs, frescoes and sgraffito, to name a few. If you think the exterior is impressive, finagle your way inside to see the pentagonal cloister courtyard with its four stories of arcades, phenomenal staircase and beautiful stained-glass roof. One of the most-photogenic places in Warsaw, if you can get in. As for the school, it’s one of the largest technology universities in Central Europe with over 36,000 students per year. If you’re wondering where they are, no doubt many of them are hanging out in 12 Hala Koszyki one of Warsaw’s absolutely awesome indoor food halls, only a five minute walk from here. More on p.79.QF‑10, pl. Politechniki 1, MPolitechnika.

Warsaw City Centre | Sightseeing

Nova Wola

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE NOVAWOLA.COM

Skyscrapers & Viewpoints Warsaw has plainly stated its ambition to have more skyscrapers than any other city in Europe. The city currently has 25 buildings of over 100m, with another 10 approved for construction, and enough pending approval to potentially bring the total up to 65 in the coming years. Beloved by locals and symbolic of the city’s aspiration to be the most modern capital in Europe, here are some of the most notable towers in town.

Varso: Nearly complete, this is the tallest building in the EU at 310m (though the last 80m is a spire).QE-8. Palace of Culture & Science: Buy a ticket, then head up to the 30th floor of Warsaw’s oldest and second tallest skyscraper (237m) for amazing panoramic views from an actual open-air terrace. More on p.17.QE-9.

Warsaw UNIT: Warsaw’s 5th tallest tower (202m) was completed in 2021. Due to open in April, the 46th floor features a Skybar and the wild new adrenaline attraction Skyfall - a vertigo-inducing glass box that dangles outside the building and suddenly tilts 15 degrees forward!QC-8.

Złota 44: Designed by Daniel Libeskind, this luxury residential tower is one of Wawa’s most beautiful and distinctive skyscrapers, as well as its 7th tallest (192m).QE-8.

Centrum LIM/The Marriott: The Marriott’s Panorama Sky Bar on the 40th floor of this veteran skyscraper (completed 1989) offers a liquid view to the city. Although the drinks are among Wawa’s most expensive, this is one of the city’s most accessible views.QE-9.

Atlas Tower: 119m tall and completed way back in 1999, the locals think this one looks like a porta-loo, but the 27th floor features one of the best luxury roof clubs in the world, Level 27 (see p.87).QE-9. 23

Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour

The Old Town

View of the Royal Castle from the Old Town Square, with frescos by Zofia Stryjeńska on the left.

A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement facades and picturesque plazas, it’s easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaw’s top tourist area. A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ when Warsaw was a pearl of European architecture, the Old Town was actually entirely rebuilt after WWII. In the devastating aftermath of the Warsaw Uprising (p.58), 85% of the city’s left bank lay in ruin, half of its population had perished, and the Old Town was a smouldering wasteland. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau immediately started rebuilding the historic centre using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs. The first phase of reconstruction was completed in 1953, but works continued in the following decades, finally concluding with the opening of the Royal Castle in 1984. Although what you see today is not strictly ‘original’ per say, it’s inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List speaks volumes of its authenticity and the effort required to recreate it. A stunning testament of the city’s rise from the ruins of WWII and of Varsovians’ great pride in their city, if you have only one day in Warsaw, you should spend part of it here. 24

WALKING TOUR IYP’s Old Town Walking Tour leads you in and around the oldest part of the city, showing you its most important and interesting points, beginning and ending near Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square) - the traditional entrance to the district. The prescribed route covers only about 1.5km. If you’re only interested in the exercise, it could take less than 30mins, but we reckon for most, an exploration of Warsaw’s Old Town will take several hours ‘if done correctly’ - that is, with a couple of short culture, food and coffee/ beer breaks. Make sure you’ve got a full charge on your smartphone or camera, some comfy shoes and off you go.

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As for the famous column, it honours the man who in 1596 moved the Polish capital from Kraków to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa. 22 metres tall, it was erected in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived, losing only his sword, and was returned to his new perch in 1949. The remains of the original column can be seen nearby beside the Royal Castle. Also note that there is a tourist information office located here at number 1/13 (open everyday 10:0016:00).QF‑4, MRatusz Arsenał.

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Plac Zamkowy

Most visits to the Old Town begin on Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square), the busy plaza where Warsaw’s medieval centre (to the north), meets the thoroughfare of its Royal Route (to the south), in the shadow of the Royal Castle. More of a triangle than a square, there isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city, and not a minute of the day when the steps of King Sigismund’s Column aren’t besieged by dating couples, schoolkids and skateboarders. A lot happens here, whether it’s a steady flow of locals and tourists out for a stroll, political demonstrations or street performers plying their trade.

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Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing

St. Anne's

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View of Plac Zamkowy and the Royal Castle from the tower of St. Anne’s Church (p.30).

Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour 2

Royal Castle

Once again the pride of Warsaw, this palace was reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by communist-era cohorts such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money came via generous donations from exiled Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the residence of Polish kings, presidents and the seat of Parliament. Some of the halls are purported to be haunted by a ‘white lady,’ whose ghostly appearance portends disaster. Those who plonk down for admission will have plenty to see, beginning with the Kings’ apartments and chambers, heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments and maps from the days when the kingdom stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea. The apartments of Prince Józef Poniatowski (aka the ‘Tin-Roofed Palace’) are also open to the public, though a separate ticket is required (15/10zł, open Wed, Sat, Sun from 10:00), and a chapel boasts an urn containing the heart of Polish hero and freedom fighter Tadeusz Kościuszko. The Houses of Parliament can also be seen, as can the opulent Great Assembly Hall. The free basement exhibition ‘From Destruction to Reconstruction’ details the castle’s resurrection after WWII rendered the place a pile of rubble, while the east-wing also contains the Gallery of Paintings, Sculpture & the Decorative Arts, which has works by Rembrandt. Lastly, the newly renovated 2.5h French Baroque Royal Gardens (open daily until 20:00) are also very much worth seeing behind the castle. Visiting time: 2hrs.QG‑4, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 30/20zł with audioguide; after 15:30 25/15zł without audioguide; kids and students with valid ID, 1zł; Wed free. U

The ‘Grand Apartment’ of the Royal Castle.

Jan Kiliński Monument

This huge monument honours Jan Kiliński, a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence - an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment in St. Petersburg. Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally located on Plac Krasińskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful place, before being relocated here in 1959. Kiliński’s comrade and superior Tadeusz Kościuszko himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5; this wide street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the narrow street running at a 90-degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages.QF‑4, ul. Podwale. 4

Old Town Defensive Ramparts

The first sections of Warsaw’s defensive walls date back to the late 13th century, and by the end of the 14th century they stretched 1,200 meters, enclosing an area of about 8.5ha, and included 8 towers and 4 city gates. The most famous of these now non-existent structures was the Kraków Gate on Plac Zamkowy, and the Marshall’s Tower - the highest point in the defensive structures - near the corner of ul. Krzywe Koło and ul. Brzozowa. Already in the 15th century these defenses were deemed insufficient and a second, lower line of brick walls was built along today’s ul. Podwale at a distance of just 9-14m from the previous walls; a moat was dug in-between and the Barbican was built in 1548 as the final piece of the defenses. As Varsovians were already settling in numbers beyond the city walls, these fortifications quickly became obsolete and from the 17th century they were being demolished or incorporated into tenement buildings. Ironically it was the total destruction of the Old Town that allowed these walls to be rebuilt after WWII and today the space between the two historical brick ramparts forms a pedestrian promenade parallel to ul. Podwale known as ‘Międzymurzę.’ Along this pleasant route you’ll find many historical plaques and monuments, but you won’t see much of the Old Town centre, as the view is obscured by the high inner wall.QF‑4, Międzymurzę Jana Zachwatowicza.

Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing 5

The Little Insurgent Monument

The communist authorities continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, though by the early 1980s cracks in their resolve were beginning to show. In 1983, this most poignant of all Uprising monuments was unveiled by the walls of the Barbican. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by collections undertaken by scouts, the bronze installation shows the figure of a boy soldier clutching a Sten gun and weighed down by an adultsized helmet. Commemorating the children who served as messengers and frontline troops, the figure is inspired by the story of 13-year-old corporal Antek, himself killed in action close to the scene on August 8, 1944.QF‑4, ul. Podwale. 6

Warsaw Barbican

Crowning the medieval defensive walls which once protected the northern entrance to the city, this fearsome rotund structure dates from 1548, and was built by architect Giovanni Battista Venetian on the site of an earlier city gate. Despite its intended use, the Barbican was only ever used in one fighting action when in 1656, during the Swedish deluge, Polish troops attacked to retake the city. In the 18th century, the Barbican was partially demolished and incorporated into new apartment buildings. As part of the Old Town’s reconstruction after WWII, the Barbican were restored. Today it serves as a bridge between the Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenage drinkers, buskers and ‘artists’ selling their wares.QF‑3/4, Intersection of ul. Podwale & ul. Nowomiejska.

Eat & Drink Warsaw’s Old Town is full of restaurants and bars, but as this is literally the most touristy part of the city, the quality varies. When it’s time to take a break, here are a few places that are worth the money and worth seeking out.

Lubię To: Just steps north of the Barbican, this small cafe is the perfect place to stop for a coffee or something sweet, and they serve breakfast all day.Qul. Freta 8.

Ciao Napoli: Authentic Neapolitan pizza (the best in town?), fresh seafood and happy hour specials make this affordable franchise deservedly popular. More on p.75. QWąski Dunaj 4/6/8.

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi: Borderline kitsch and touristy to be sure, but the traditional Polish food hits the mark and the portions are immense. More on p.75.Qul. Podwale 19 and ul. Piwna 14.

U Barssa: This classy restaurant brings a refreshing refinement to the Old Town and traditional Polish cuisine. Try their signature ‘duck a la Barssa.’ More on p.77.QRynek Starego Miasta 12/14.

Bar & Books: Open after 17:00, drop in this sophisticated, dimly-lit cocktail and whisky bar for an evening drink, and maybe catch some live music on weekends.Qul. Wąski Dunaj 20.

The Old Town Ramparts & Barbican

Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour 7

Old Town Square

Measuring 90 by 73 metres, the Old Town Square is Warsaw’s defining highlight, lined with richly decorated burgher houses whose design dates back to the 17th century. The facades hide a treasure trove of decorative elements - keep an eye out for our favourite, the ‘House Under the Lion,’ which features frescos by Zofia Stryjeńska (our big interwar Polish artist crush - look her up) at the southwest corner leading onto ul. Świetojańska. Today these tenements host numerous museums and cultural institutions - in fact the Museum of Warsaw occupies the entire northern side of the square - plus souvenir shops,

Old Town Museums When it was rebuilt in the postwar years, Warsaw implemented a vision of its resurrected Old Town as a place of culture. Today it harbours a remarkable number of museums, so instead of just staggering around, gawking at the architecture - go inside and learn something. The two largest, most significant and most worth-visiting museums (in our opinion) are the Royal Castle (p.26) - where you’ll get a feel for the city’s lost grandeur, and the Museum of Warsaw, where you’ll learn its history. Depending on your interests, however, you may be interested in one of these smaller, more niche museums nearby.

Archdiocese Museum: Displaying both the sacred and profane, this surprising and underrated art museum has several creepy Beksiński paintings. More on p.52.Qul. Dziekania 1.

Museum of Dollhouses: Over 150 highly detailed historical dollhouses, plus various other minature settings, and antiquated toys. More on p.53.Qul. Podwale 15.

Pharmacy Museum: Travel back in time to a charmingly antiquated interwar ‘apteka.’ Nominated for ‘European Museum of the Year 2022.’ More on p.54.Qul. Piwna 31/33.

World of Illusion: More attraction than museum, but a nice reward for the kids, the exhibits will fool your eyes and you’ll go home with lots of fun photos. More on p.61.QRynek Starego Miasta 21. 28

restaurants and cafes, with ample outdoor seating in the spring and summer. At number 27 you’ll find Warsaw’s oldest and most prestigious restaurant, U Fukiera (p.73). During the 15th century the centre of the square was home to Warsaw’s Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Today, it’s most famous feature is Warsaw’s best-loved monument and the city’s defining symbol - Syrenka, aka the Warsaw Mermaid. Cast in 1855, this busty vixen’s form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in the capital.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta. 8

Museum of Warsaw, Main Branch

Found inside 11 conjoined historical tenements on the Old Town Square, this revamped museum’s permanent exhibit, ‘The Things of Warsaw,’ presents the city’s cultural history via 7,000 fascinating objects displayed over 21 thematically organised rooms. Included are portraits, postcards, souvenirs, packaging and other items with representations of the Polish capital or symbols like the Warsaw Mermaid - all of which contribute to a better understanding of the events and processes that have shaped the Warsaw we know today. The history of the beautiful buildings themselves, which still retain many original architectural elements, is also presented, and the museum also includes a bookstore, cafe and a fabulous viewpoint overlooking the Old Town Square. Visiting time: 2-3hrs.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, tel. (+48) 22 277 44 02, www.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 11:0018:00; Thu, Sat 11:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibit 20/15zł; temporary exhibit 12/7zł; all exhibits 25/18zł; Thu free. U6 9

Gnojna Góra (Dung Hill)

Demonstrating how every word sounds exotic when you don’t know the language, Gnojna Góra may sound like another charming stop on your walking tour of the Old Town. And it is, for the views of the River Vistula and the Praga district beyond, but not for the name, which literally translates as Shit Hill (Dung Hill, if you wish to be more polite). For centuries, this was the dumping ground for all of the Old Town’s waste - chamber pots and buckets of rubbish, ahoy! As you can imagine, it grew over time and the distinctive shape can best be seen from the bottom. At one stage it was actually renowned for its healing properties - people with obscene amounts of money

Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing would come here to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis (doesn’t work, we’ve tried). From here head back towards centre via ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city, then swerve onto ul. Kanonia.QG‑4, ul. Brzozowa. 10

Ul. Kanonia

Once the site of the oldest cemetery in Warsaw, Kanonia Street takes the shape of a small square, at the centre of which is a cracked Cathedral bell dating back to 1646. Cast by artisan Daniel Tym (who also made the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column), the bell never actually rang at St. John’s Cathedral next to it, but it has developed its own legend: touch the top of the bell while walking its circumference and your wish will come true. Across from the bell is one of the world’s most narrow houses at number 20/22. Only 2m across, it was designed to evade property taxes, which in the 18th century (when it was built) were calculated based on the width of the facade facing the main street. Also note the covered walkway nearby, which links the Cathedral to the Royal Castle and was built after a failed assassination attempt on Sigismund III. The attacker, who succeeded in striking the King twice with a pickaxe before being overpowered, was subsequently dealt with using the most medieval means imaginable: stretched by four horses, he was quartered with an axe; his body was then burned, and the ashes fired from a musket so as to disperse them in the air. This was all done in public, of course, at the city’s execution place, a few blocks away at the end of ul. Piekaska.QG‑4, ul. Kanonia. 11

St. John the Baptist Cathedral

Originally built in the 14th century, St John’s is steeped in history. The last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was crowned and eventually buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the May 3rd Constitution inside the building. The crypt holds the bodies of Henryk Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Poland’s first president) and various Mazovian knights. As with most major landmarks, it was the scene of heavy fighting during the Warsaw Uprising and was subsequently left in a heap of ruins before being rebuilt in pseudo-gothic style. On the external wall by the main entrance are fragments of a Borgward IV - a remote-controlled ordnance transporter used by the German army. It’s possible to visit the cathedral crypts Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00 and Sun 15:00-17:00 at a cost of 5/3zł (closed during mass). QF/G‑4, ul. Świętojańska 8, tel. (+48) 22 831 02 89, www. katedra.mkw.pl. Open 06:00-22:00; Sun 07:00-22:00. 29

Sightseeing | The Royal Route

The Royal Route Turn your back on the Old Town and head into the heart of the city…

Warsaw’s famed ‘Royal Route’ links the city’s three Royal residences, starting from the Royal Castle (p.26) on Plac Zamkowy, via Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Island (p.43), en route to Wilanów Palace (p.44) in the district of the same name. Officially covering 11km in length, this main artery through the city takes in a great many of Warsaw’s historical buildings, parks and monuments along the way, making a trip down at least part of the ‘path of the kings’ - be it on foot, by bike, or motorised scooter - a fine opportunity to see the heart and soul of the capital.

WALKING TOUR In lieu of the full 11km traverse, this walking tour picks up at the end of the Old Town Walking Tour (p.24) on Plac Zamkowy and guides you gently down Warsaw’s two main high streets - ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście and ul. Nowy Świat - to the ironic/iconic Palm Tree fittingly at the intersection of Al. Jerozolimskie (Jerusalem Street). An easy 2km/20mins on foot, along the way or very nearby you’ll find many wonderful restaurants, cafes, bars and shops, so use the rest of our guide to plan your pit stops. In the ‘Choose Your Adventure’ box at the end of the tour (p.35), you’ll find info on how to continue on the Royal Route to Łazienki and Wilanów (while resting your feet) should you choose to, or advice on how to veer off towards other interests. 30

St. Anne’s Church & Tower

St. Anne’s survived the war with a few token scratches and a collapsed roof, but what the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished in 1949 when the thoughtless construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel led to landslides and huge cracks in the floor of the church, which very nearly crashed to the ground. It took 400 people two weeks to stabilise the foundations. Intriguingly, this wasn’t the first time St. Anne’s had survived vicious conflict to find disaster around the corner. It escaped destruction during the war with Sweden (1650-1655) only to be gutted by fire two years later, apparently the victim of arson. The classicist façade dates from 1788 and the interior holds even more classicist and rococo details.

The viewing tower is one of the best in Warsaw and worth the 147-step climb. One other point of interest concerns a simple wooden cross out front. These two planks of wood became the focus of a battle that threatened to divide the country in the summer of 2010. To learn the story, see our

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His defining masterpiece, Pan Tadeusz, is a beautifully written epic portraying Polish society in the 19th century. Dominating Krakowskie Przedmieście, traces of WWII bullet holes dating are still visible on the monument. To learn more about Mickiewicz you can visit the Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature on the Old Town Square (F-4, Rynek Starego Miasta 20). QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 21-23, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

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Much mystery surrounds his life; his role as a national cultural icon meaning that much of the seamier side of his life has been covered up, including his involvement in strange cults and alleged womanising. To this day, even his birthplace remains a hot source of argument. Some say Nowogródek (Lithuania), others say the nearby Zavosse (Zaosie). A champion of freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak in Turkey, 1855, while recruiting a Polish legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea. Originally buried in Paris, Mickiewicz’s body now lies in Wawel Cathedral, Kraków.

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Patriot, poet and the man who inspired Romanticism in Poland, Mickiewicz stands out as Poland’s greatest literary figure - as well as a figure of hope during a bleak age of Russian oppression. His involvement in politics saw him exiled east in 1824 by the ruling Russians, before finally heading to western Europe in 1829. A bid to return to his homeland in 1830 was thwarted at the border, and he never saw his native Poland again.

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online piece on the Presidential Cross: iyp.me/71061. QG‑4, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 91, www.swanna.waw.pl. Open 09:00-15:00; Sun 10:00-19:00.

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Sightseeing | The Royal Route 3

Presidential Palace

Guarded by stone lions and stern-looking soldiers, of all the landmarks that line Krakowskie Przedmieście, none is more important than the Presidential Palace. Construction began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It then passed into the hands of various aristocratic families, becoming famed for its banquets in the 18th century - the most extravagant of which marked the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789; over 2 million PLN was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests. Poniatowski proved to be one of the nation’s most controversial monarchs - and also its last. Among his successes was the Constitution of May 3, 1791. Signed on these very grounds, it was the 2nd such document in the world after the US Constitution. Not to be confused with the king himself, the large monument in front of the Palace is of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski. A Polish general, he defended Warsaw during the Kościuszko Uprising and eventually died in the service of Napoleon. After 1818 the Palace became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, entertaining many a visiting Tsar before burning down in 1852. Rebuilt and frequently remodelled, at the beginning of the 20th century an entire wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained independence in 1918 the Palace was commandeered to serve as home for the Prime Minister, and somehow it survived WWII. More momentous events came in 1955 when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO - was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as the official home of the Polish president, which is why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out, and square-jawed soldiers pointing their weapons at anyone who strays too close. Current President Andrzej Duda presently resides in the Palace with his family.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

Curiosity Crossroads! Carry on down the Royal Route? Or perhaps hang a right after the Hotel Europejski down ul. Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza towards Plac Piłsudskiego (p.20)? Choose the latter to see Warsaw’s largest square and escape the urban hub-bub via the lovely Saxon Garden (p.11), a stroll through which leads you into the City Centre (p.18) and on a path to Hala Gwardii and Hala Mirowska (p.20) - two massive indoor markets 15-20mins on foot from where you’re standing. 32

Bristol & Europejski Hotels

Two of the biggest, most famous landmarks on prestigious ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście are former palaces turned luxury hotels today. The first is Hotel Bristol at ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44. First built in 1900, a brass plaque outside boasts of its many famous guests: Picasso, Nixon and Dietrich, to name but a few. In 1993 it was restored to its prewar glory and the re-opening ceremony was such a big deal, it was attended by Ms. Margaret Thatcher. Refreshed repeatedly since, it is certainly among the very top hotels in the capital, boasting an interior by world-renowned designer Anita Rosato that blends secessionist and art deco glamour with modern luxury. If you can’t afford to spend the night, you can still drop in to the wonderfully old school Cafe Bristol - a perfect place for coffee or breakfast (more on p.64).

Bristol Luxury Hotel.

Across the street is the revamped Raffles Hotel Europejski (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13). The first hotel to re-open after WWII, it entered Varsovian folklore in 1967 when a group of young upstarts calling themselves ‘the Rolling Stones’ stayed here, under the watchful eye of the authorities, and had themselves quite a time tipping back vodkas in the hotel bar. In 2018 the hotel was refurbed for the Raffles brand and today it is a stunning luxury space full of contemporary art and custom furnishings. If you want to have your proverbial socks knocked off, explore the building’s many first-rate dining and drinking venues, including Chaud Pain boulangerie (p.64), Lourse patisserie and EPOKA restaurant (p.69). Though you might not be able to afford anything, you can still wander through Europejski Boutiques - the most exclusive shopping experience in the country. QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, 13, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

The Royal Route | Sightseeing

Chopin Recitals

Entrance gates of Warsaw University. 5

The University of Warsaw

Going further, why all of a sudden do you see young, fresh faced kids? Well, you’re in Warsaw University-land. The Uni’s main campus lies behind the grand gateway at ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28. Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as ‘Villa Regia,’ was remodelled and renovated several times before Warsaw U was established here in 1816. Chopin even lived here, with plaques found at the entrance to the campus - look up at the building behind you to see another location he lived in! The uni had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in retaliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the university continued to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar calmed down enough to rubber stamp the creation of a School of Medicine. Today, with some 48,000 students on the roll call, the university stands out as the largest and arguably best in Poland. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning travel writer Ryszard Kapuściński, the late president Lech Kaczyński and the poet Julian Tuwim.QG‑6, Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, www.en.uw.edu.pl. 6

Holy Cross Church

No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw without first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Added to the church in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and then placed behind a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved by Leonardo Marconi. Although this serves as the church’s key draw there are several other features of note to tempt the visitor inside this astonishing Baroque creation. The church’s history originally dates from the 15th century when a small wooden chapel stood on the site. Destroyed during the Swedish Deluge of the 1650s, the church was rebuilt in 1682, with the cornerstone being ceremoniously laid by Prince Jakub, son of King Jan III Sobieski. Designed by the royal architect, Jakub Bellotti, it was completed in 1696 though over time would see numerous additions to

Poland’s greatest composer, Fryderyk Chopin (1810-1849) was born 50km west of Warsaw in Żelazowa Wola, moving to the capital with his family as a baby. A prodigy from the start, he came to fame here in Warsaw before being exiled at age 20 due to the November Uprising of 1830. Walking down Warsaw’s Royal Route, one could do a walking tour strictly focused on Chopin-related sites, which are in abundance. The main sites are the Chopin Museum (a short walk down ul. Ordynacka, p.36) and the Holy Cross Church, but also keep an eye out for several ‘Chopin Benches’ which explain the history of relevant sites and play a burst of the composer’s music at the touch of a button. Live Chopin recitals are an incredibly popular tourist activity in Warsaw and there are three points along the Royal Route where you can attend one. The first is Chopin Point on Plac Zamkowy (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieśćie 87/89; FriSun only at 19:00, 90/65zł), the second is House of Music at ul. Nowy Świat 63 (every day at 17:00, 50zł), and the third is Chopin Salon on ul. Smolna 14/7 (H-7, every day at 19:30, 60/40zł). Also don’t forget the free Sunday recitals under the Chopin Monument in Lazienki Park (p.41), at 12:00 noon from mid-May to September. its shape. The most notable of these would come in the following century when Józef Fontana added two Baroque crowns to the square-cut twin towers. His son Jakub would later extensively refurbish the façade with Jan Jerzy Plersch adding elaborate decorative touches to the interior. Throughout history the church has played its role in Warsaw’s glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944 the church was painstakingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the heart, eyes and soul. The organ (built in Salzburg in 1925) is the largest in Warsaw, and other points of note include an urn with the remains of Nobel Prize winning author Władysław Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons including poet Juliusz Słowacki and WWII hero Władysław Sikorski.QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl. Open 10:00-11:00, 13:00-16:00; Sun 14:00-16:00. 33

Sightseeing | The Royal Route

ul. Nowy Świat Nip across the ul. Świętokrzyska intersection and Krakowskie Przedmieście suddenly becomes the New World! Nowy Świat (New World) Street dates back to medieval times when it was traversed by Kings on their way between Warsaw and Kraków, with the first settlements appearing here in the 17th century. Levelled during WWII, the street was rebuilt in uniform neo-classical style, as returning it to its pre-war Art Nouveau style was unfeasible. Nowy Świat has long been one of THE places to be seen and is home to numerous bars and eateries. In addition to the recommendations below, you’ll find numerous more gastronomic and drinking opportunities on the trendy off-shoot streets of ul. Chmielna and ul. Foksal.QH‑8, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

Bi Ba Bo: This nostalgic venue hearkens back to Warsaw’s interwar aura of glamour with delicious coffee and Polish cuisine enriched with international flavours. More on p.70.Qul. Nowy Świat 66.

Tehran: Experience the specialties (mutton,

Nicolaus Copernicus Monument

The founder of modern astronomy. A sheltered academic, Copernicus made his observations alone, a century before the invention of the telescope. His book De Revolutionibus (1543) posited that the earth rotated on its axis once a day, travelled around the sun once a year, and that man’s place in the cosmos was peripheral. Though obvious today, this was an utterly radical idea at the time. Although those who propagated his ideas were burned at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no turning back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy. The statue itself was unveiled in 1830 and has seen its share of adventure. During WWII the Nazis placed a new plaque here insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp! - a German. A boy scout named Alek Dawidowski ducked the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis removed the monument, then dynamited a few others for good measure. The statue was recovered after the war, and Dawidowski entered Polish folklore for his bravery. QG‑6, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

lamb) and exotic flavours (mint, rose, saffron) of Iran in this colourful eatery that exudes good energy. More on p.76.Qul. Gałczyńskiego 9.

Blikle Café: Famously patronised by Charles de Gaulle, this classy, august venue offers breakfast, lunch, ice cream and outstanding desserts that are part of Warsaw folklore.Qul. Nowy Świat 33.

Swing: High-end Asian fusion cuisine, paired with enticing cocktails, carefully selected wines, beer and live music on weekends. More on p.72. Qul. Nowy Świat 31. 34

Warsaw’s famed Palm Tree!

The Royal Route | Sightseeing 8

The Palm Tree

Wondering what a giant palm tree is doing in the middle of this roundabout? Modern art, my friends. In this case, a project called ‘Greetings from Jerusalem’ by Polish artist Joanna Rajkowska, who, during a trip to Israel, was struck by the brainwave of sticking a palm tree in the Polish capital to give it some sunny cheer (in the most ironic way possible). The palm tree is actually a steel column specially designed to bend in the wind, covered with natural bark and leaves made from polyethylene. Quite popular, the permanent installation reminds us of all the beautiful and exotic places we could be instead.QG‑8, Rondo de Gaulle’a, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

Choose Your Adventure! From the Palm Tree, Warsaw’s ‘Royal Route’ continues another 10km, past the Ujazdowski and Łazienki Parks, before it ultimately ends at Wilanów Palace - the 17th century private residence of King Jan III Sobieski. While a walking tour of the remaining 10km isn’t realistic or especially rewarding, Łazienki (p.40) and Wilanów (p.44) are both required for getting a broader sense of Warsaw’s former glory as the grand capital of a vast and wealthy commonwealth stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea. You can easily continue your tour to either from the Foksal 01 bus stop on ul. Nowy Świat. To get to Łazienki Park, simply hop on bus numbers 116 or 180 and get off three stops later at ‘Łazienki Królewskie.’ For Wilanów, take the same numbers, or catch the direct E-2 bus; get off at ‘Wilanów.’ Use warsaw.jakdojade.pl for live public transit connections.

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Asian Fusion Restaurant & Cocktail Bar in the heart of Warsaw Nowy Świat 31

Asian Inspired Menu Innovative Cocktails Premium & Modern Interior Live Music Every Weekend Event Place

Alternatively, head 300m down super-trendy ul. Foksal (G/H-7), past plenty of restos, to see Zamoyski Palace - a neo-renaissance pearl and the scene of a botched assassination attempt on the Russian governor in 1863; infuriated Cossack troops reacted by launching a piano once tickled by Chopin out the window. From there it’s a charming 5min stroll through parks to the Chopin Museum (H-7, ul. Okólnik 1), where you’ll connect with our Powiśle district tour on p.36. On the flip side, head west down pedestrianised ul. Chmielna, past many a bar and restaurant, 10mins to the Palace of Culture (p.17). Of course you can always backtrack to the Metro to make a shortcut to the River Boulevards (p.37) or onward to Praga (p.46).

+48 667 988 889 www.swingrestauracja.pl

Sightseeing | Powiśle

Powiśle: Warsaw’s Riverside District A former train station ticket office turned iconic neighbourhood hangout - Warszawa Powiśle.

Once a mundane area of apartment blocks and industrial decay, over the past two decades Powiśle has transformed into one of Warsaw’s most intriguing and eclectic areas to explore. Considering its plum location along the riverside, it’s hard to believe that this large neighbourhood was essentially a cultural dead zone until skyrocketing rent costs in the City Centre forced Warsaw’s students, artists, activists and small business owners to reconsider its potential. Warsaw University was the first to pitch a tent in the area, creating a real draw since 2002 with their lovely Library Rooftop Gardens (open from April until end of October), and the adjacent opening of the prestigious Copernicus Science Centre in 2009 invited further cultural investments (like the Museum of Modern Art), while also creating strong impetus for the city to connect the area via Metro (2015) and finally clean up and modernise the left bank river boulevards into a popular place for public recreation (completed in 2017). The massive redevelopment of the former Elektrownia Powiśle power plant into a space for events, dining and shopping (opened in 2020) typifies the high-powered investment taking place here today, but despite increasing gentrification, Powiśle still maintains an authentic local vibe thanks to its balance of both trendsetting gastro spots and boho dives (like the iconic Warszawa Powiśle bar). Roll yourself downhill towards the river from Warsaw’s Old Town or City Centre to discover what’s good in this hood! 36

What to See 1

Fryderyk Chopin Museum

Touted as one of the most high-tech in Europe, this museum was opened in 2010 - the 200th anniversary of Chopin’s birth. Four floors of interactive exhibits cover the composer’s life in every aspect, including a recreation of his Paris drawing room, the last letter he wrote to his family, dried flowers from his deathbed, his death mask, and even the women in his life. In addition to the avalanche of touchscreens, the museum allows visitors to ‘adapt their trip to their particular circumstances’ by personalising their own route. Your e-card ticket can be swiped at interactive exhibits, allowing you to hear music, stories or watch videos. The number of visitors is restricted, so we suggest reserving tickets in advance via the website. Located in the famous Ostrogski Palace, the building’s catacombs are said to be home to the legendary Golden Duck - a princess charmed by the Devil before being transformed. Visiting time: 1hr.QH‑7, ul. Okólnik 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, www.muzeum.nifc.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission 23/14zł; Wed free. Guided tours available by prior arrangement (in English 120zł, Polish 100zł). U

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Once you’re down by the river, you’ll notice that Warsaw has modernised and improved its left bank dramatically in the last decade. The Powiśle boulevards flanking the Świętokrzyski Bridge and leading north to Warsaw the Old Town have seen the most development and University are now not only a popular thoroughfare for walking, running, cycling and skating, but also brimming with bars, cafes and restaurants - particularly in the warmer months - plus parks and leisure spaces. The area just north of the bridge has also become a cultural corridor and tourist lure thanks to a clutch of top attractions: the Copernicus Science Centre, Museum on the Vistula and the University Library Gardens (open April to October), as well as the Multimedia Ordyna cka Fountain Park further north (F-3). It’s fair to say that Warsaw’s river boulevards are now among the best in Europe and as endemic to the identity and character of the capital as those in London or Paris, so don’t miss having a stroll along the water while in town. FokOne sal thing that makes Warsaw’s riverside especially unique is that while the boulevards of the left bank consist of concrete retaining walls, the entire breadth of Smthe olna opposite shore has been left wild and undeveloped, making for a stark, fascinating and unusual contrast. QI‑6, Generała George’a Smitha Pattona, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik. National

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Possibly the second most famous statue of the city’s mermaid. This 2.75m tall bronze monument was created by sculptor Ludwika Nitschowa and unveiled in 1939. Her model was 23-year-old poet Chopin and ethnography student, Krystyna Krahelska, Point but allegedly Ludwika changed her face slightly to protect her modesty. emarkably, it made it through the war at this spot with only minor damage.QI‑6, Bulwar Bohdana Grzymały-Siedleckiego (near Most Świętokrzyski), MCentrum Nauki Kopernik.

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Sightseeing | Powiśle

Eat & Drink When it’s time for a rest or a feed, Powiśle is one of the best areas to find yourself in. There are many worthy venues on and around ul. Solec - one of the main streets in the area, as well as numerous food trucks and barges moored up along the river, particularly in summer. Of course Elektrownia Powiśle has its own food hall (p.78) featuring dozens of stalls and standalone restaurants, so you can’t go wrong. Here are a few other notable venues in the neighbourhood:

The Cool Cat: Exuding cool and all over the latest trends, this Asian-influenced bistro does everything from brunch, bao and ramen, to cocktails and natural wines.QI-7, ul. Solec 38.

LAS: Lush but refined, this ‘forest’ uses local, seasonal ingredients to create contemporary incarnations of Polish classics, plus unusual cocktails.QI-7, ul. Solec 44.

Nadwiślańskie Świt: A cult restobar in the former lobby of a 1960s hotel near the river, serving modern European dishes, lunch specials, craft beer, cocktails and retro vibes.QI-6, Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 31/33.

Warszawa Powiśle: This cult dive bar for hungover hipsters in a former train ticket office epitomises the local vibe, while offering allday breakfast, veggies eats and more.QI-7, ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B.

Reopened in 2020, today Elektrownia offers four levels of shopping with over 70 boutiques, 9 sitdown restaurants across the complex, plus a huge food hall (p.78) with an additional 17 international food concepts and 3 bars. Additionally, there is a 1500m2 Beauty Hall offering over 300 cosmetic treatments from 10 salons. Events are frequently hosted in the courtyards between the buildings, including a regular farmer’s market, yoga lessons and film screenings, and there’s also a multimedia fountain. Whatever your proclivity, there are plenty of reasons to check out one of Warsaw’s most exciting and successful urban renewal projects. QH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. TU6KH

Warsaw’s eye-catching riverside MoMA - Museum on the Vistula.

Elektrownia Powiśle

Once one of the largest electrical power plants in Europe, Elektrownia Powiśle powered the Polish capital from 1904 to 2001 before it was closed and left to crumble. Purchased by a developer in 2016, it was only a matter of time before the historic industrial site was transformed into a multifunctional, mixed-use urban centre. Covering a massive 50,000m2, much of the site has been converted into offices, apartments and a hotel, but a remaining 15,000m2 in the former boiler and engine buildings comprises commercial space for retail, gastronomy and wellness. In keeping with current revitalisation trends, the postindustrial plot deftly mixes original architecture and design details with modern trends and convenience, including glass exterior elevators, 30m chimneys and original switchboards.

Powiśle | Sightseeing 5

Copernicus Science Centre

A rare example of EU funding being used in a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is the very best science centre in Europe, and one of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions. Not only will you learn an awful lot, but you’ll have a blast doing so. The fun starts as soon as you encounter the museum’s very own ‘Robothespian’ an interactive humanoid robot - at the front doors, before exploring several hundred hands-on exhibits across two floors that will have you actively pressing buttons, answering quizzes, and even exerting yourself physically. Warsaw University Library Rooftop Gardens In addition to temporary exhibits and the all-ages ‘Experiment Zone,’ there are 7 Warsaw University Library zones specially designed for the youngest visitors up to teens and adults. Check out the free rooftop Rooftop Gardens garden, and don’t miss the Planetarium (separate Traditionally speaking, rooftops are the preserve of opening hours and ticket required), which immerses chimney sweeps, superheroes and Santa, but visit the visitors in 20 million stars, and screens films about Warsaw University Library (BUW) building and that natural science and the origins of life on earth. Visiting opinion will quickly change. Topping off the bizarre time: 3-4hrs.QI‑6, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, oxidised green building is a lovely two-level rooftop MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, garden filled with bridges, streams and sculptures www.kopernik.org.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Fri 09:00-20:00; that covers an entire hectare; there’s even a fishpond Sat, Sun 09:00-19:00; closed Mon. The Planetarium: Tue, and a stone fountain mixed in among the oak trees Wed 09:00-15:30; Thu 09:00-19:30; Fri, Sat 10:00-20:30; and Japanese spirea. Designed by Irena Bajerska and Sun 10:00-19:30. Admission 37/25zł; Sat, Sun 39/26zł; opened back in 2002, the garden affords panoramic planetarium 27/19zł. U views of lower left-bank Warsaw and across the river to Praga. A wonderful place to stop and rest in the 6 Museum on the Vistula heart of the city, take a picnic and sit amongst the The Museum on the Vistula is a branch of the Warsaw groups of students taking time out from studying Museum of Modern Art, and the current site of all the (ahem, napping). While you’re there, we also highly institution’s exhibitions while their new headquarters recommend visiting the BUW Gallery to see some is being built on Plac Defilad (scheduled to open in fantastic Polish poster art (open 13:00-18:00, Sat 2023). Located on top of the Wisła’s riverside terraces, 13:00-17:00, closed Sun; admission free).QH‑5, ul. the eye-catching large white box of a building is Dobra 56/66, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, www.buw. actually a pavilion that was designed by Austrian uw.edu.pl. 1 Apr - 30 Apr: 08:00-18:00. Library open architect Adolf Krischanitz and housed the Kunsthalle Mon-Sat 08:00-22:00, Sun 15:00-20:00. Rooftop Gardens in Berlin from 2008-10. In 2017 it arrived in Warsaw accessible April 1 - October 31 only. Admission free. with the caveat that the exterior be covered in artwork. Sławomir Pawszak won the contest for decorating the facade, and his colourful scribblings Choose Your Adventure! have adorned it since it opened. Inside you’ll find provocative exhibitions by international artists that From Powiśle it’s exceedingly easy to get to challenge our notions on the nature of art, as well as Praga (p.46) or the City Centre (p.18) via the the Paloma cafe/bistro and a bookstore. Check out handy riverside ‘Centrum Nauki Kopernik’ Metro MoMA’s website for current/future exhibitions.QH‑5, station. Alternatively, walk north along the river ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, MCentrum Nauki to return to the Old Town (p.24) or check out Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 40 10, www.artmuseum.pl. New Town’s Multimedia Fountain (p.62), which Open 12:00-19:00; Fri 12:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-20:00; Sun is quite an evening attraction; both are about 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, children 2km/20mins on foot. under 7 enter free. 39

Sightseeing | Łazienki Park

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Łazienki Park | Sightseeing Anyone who still thinks that Warsaw is a city of cement and concrete has clearly never been to the city’s incomparable Łazienki Park. This glorious 74-hectare green space is one of Warsaw’s unparalleled highlights, adored by locals and visitors alike. In the summer months, seemingly the entire city flocks here on Sundays (don’t worry, it’s so vast it rarely feels crowded) and in the autumn and winter it becomes an evocative backdrop for twilight trysts with monumental architecture peeking out of the mists. A wonderful place to escape the capital’s modern-day gloom and get lost in its nostalgic past, Łazienki isn’t only a park, however; it’s also a museum complex full of wonderful art and architecture.

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The full/proper name of today’s park is ‘Łazienki Królewskie,’ which means ‘Royal Baths’ and is derived from the park’s centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace on the Island. The palace was originally built in the 17th century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski, owner of the nearby Ujazdowski Castle and much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private residence (thus taking the name Palace on the Island). It was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as a private garden, most of the landscaping being carried out to the designs of Karol Ludwig Agricola and Karol Schultz. Perfect for romantic strolls, family picnics or cultural outings, today the park is packed with gorgeous sculptures and monuments, palatial architecture and priceless art, lovely landscapes of bridges and ponds, plus cafes, restaurants and more. With so much to see and explore, don’t be surprised to find yourself spending the better part of a day here.

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Tickets & Info While the park is free to wander, explore and enjoy, Łazienki’s indoor exhibits require a paid ticket. To ensure that your pockets don’t fill with litter, there is now one ticket which provides entry to all of the park’s paid sites: the Palace on the Island, the Old Orangery, Myślewicki Palace and the Officer Cadets School, plus - from May to November only - the White Pavilion and the Water Tower. The details of that ticket are below and all the corresponding sites have the same opening hours; tickets can be purchased at the park’s two information offices at the Old Orangery or the Officer Cadets School. Note that the Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship and the Botanical Garden have their own hours and require separate tickets.QH‑12, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 50 60 024, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Park open 06:0020:00. Indoor attractions open 10:00-16:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Combined ticket for attractions, 40/20zł; kids under 7 free; students under 26, 1zł; Fri free.

Chopin Monument Don’t miss this famous art nouveau sculpture of Warsaw’s favourite son, Fryderyk Chopin. Depicting the composer right here in Łazienki beneath a willow tree, the acclaimed work by Wacław Szymankowski was erected in 1926. As part of the Nazi campaign against Polish culture it was dynamited by the Germans on May 31, 1940; as the story goes, the following day an unknown patriot placed a placard on the wreckage declaring: ‘I don’t know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t play the funeral march for your leader.’ An original plaster-cast allowed the statue to be revived and this reconstruction was unveiled in 1958.

What to See Belvedere Palace (Belweder)

The Belvedere Palace was the residence of Polish presidents from 1918 to 1995 and then once again during the presidency of Bronisław Komorowski from 2010-2015 (Presidents Aleksander Kwaśniewski, Lech Kaczyński and current president Andrzej Duda opted to live in the Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście (p.32)). Built in 1694 and thoroughly remodelled in 1818, the building is essentially offlimits to visitors, but an eyeful to behold. A wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns, the best views and photo ops are fetched from outside the park on Al. Ujazdowskie.QH‑12.

If you’re here on a Sunday after mid-May, head to Łazienki to hear a free Chopin concert.

Sightseeing | Łazienki Park

Getting There Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three main entrances on ‘Al. Ujazdowskie’, including numbers 116 and 180 from the Old Town/Nowy Świat; get off at the ‘Łazienki Królewskie’ bus stop. If you prefer tram, the ‘Pl. Unii Lubelskiej’ stop is only a 300m walk east down ul. Bagatela to the park’s southern entrance, in front of the Belvedere Palace; tram 4 gets you there from the Old Town or Royal Route, trams 10, 18 or 35 also make the trip from various points in the City Centre. Accurate times and routes can be checked online at warsaw.jakdojade.pl. Set in the midst of a rose garden (which blooms June to October), this large monument is the backdrop for a very popular series of free classical piano concerts every Sunday at 12:00 from mid-May until the end of September. The opportunity to hear the music of this great composer in such a beautiful setting is one of the most wonderful experiences in the city during the summer. Bring a blanket and picnic and enjoy.QH‑11.

Old Orangery A good place to start a visit to Łazienki, the Old Orangery is one of two ticket offices and tourist info points in the park. Originally erected in 1785-88 to house exotic trees through the once-harsh Polish winter, the sunny structure also harbours King Stanisław August’s Royal Theatre - one of the few surviving 18th century court theatres in Europe. Constructed out of wood and covered in marblised polychromes, above the

Old Orangery | Photo: Paweł Czarnecki

balcony boxes keen observers will notice the painted illusion of yet another level, complete with an 18thcentury court audience. The theatre is still used today to host chamber concerts. The other important aspect of the Old Orangery is the Royal Sculpture Gallery. From the very beginning of his reign, Stanisław August collected hundreds of marble and plaster copies of the most famous sculptures from antiquity. 120 of the most important of these casts are uniquely displayed inside the Orangery, against a painted backdrop by court artist Johann Christian Kamsetzer designed to give the visitor the feeling of a stroll through an alley of statues in an Italian garden. Visiting time: 30mins.QI‑11.

Botanical Garden Part of the University of Warsaw, these separate gardens at Łazienki have several greenhouses stuffed with exotic, weird and wonderful species from all over the world, but what brings in the crowds during the summer are the stunning rose gardens just behind the main entrance. A riot of colour when in full bloom, the gardens are the preferred subject matter of students from the nearby art college, who set up their easels early and paint until the guards kick them out at sunset. Given such lush scenery, it’s tempting to find a bench and do the same.QH‑11, Al. Ujazdowskie 4, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 553 05 11, www.ogrod.uw.edu.pl. March & April open 10:00-18:00; from May open 10:00-20:00. Greenhouses open on Sat, Sun only, at the same hours as the park. Admission 20/10zł (park and greenhouses),12/6zł (park only).

Łazienki Park | Sightseeing White Pavilion This small villa was built in 1774, and was the first building King Stanisław August had erected on the grounds. Originally meant to be his summer residence, evidence suggests that the King’s sisters actually took up lodging here more than he did. Escaping WWII unscathed, the villa largely retains its original layout, lushly painted decor and period furnishings, and boasts a unique two-level roof terrace. On the ground floor the Gallery of Prints displays selections from Ovid’s ‘Metamorphoses’ - part of the King’s personal collection of 4300 prints, from which only about half survive today. The building is open to the public from the beginning of May to the end of November only. Visiting time: 20mins.QI‑11.

Palace on the Island The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison d’etre. Originally built as a Baroque bathhouse in 1683, the iconic structure was converted into a Neoclassical residential palace in the late 1700s by King Stanisław August. Architecturally spectacular, the palace is lies on an island in the middle of a long narrow lake, and is connected to both shores by colonnaded bridges on each side. The façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors and are crowned by a balustrade that bears mythological figures. Today almost all of the palace can be visited, including the King’s private rooms, which appear in their original context, and the extravagant Baroque reception hall. A major patron of the arts, in 1793 King Stanisław August converted the palace into the first modern public museum, displaying the most important paintings from his collection of 2,289 works. Today 140 of these canvases are on display as the Royal Picture Gallery, and arranged as they would have been in the years 1793-1795. Visiting time: 45-60mins.QI‑11.

White Pavilion

Myślewicki Palace Built in the 1770s and 80s, this elegant semi-circular palace was originally conceived as King Stanisław August’s primary residence, though it gradually shifted to more diplomatic functions, hosting official state soirees and accommodating foreign ministers. Designed in Early Classicist style, the unique recessed entrance is decorated with mythological sculptures. After a thorough renovation, the building again appears very much as it would have in the late 18th century, and a walk through the interiors - replete with original murals, furniture and art - is worth the short amount of time it takes to see them. Visiting time: 30mins.QJ‑11.

Officer Cadets School

Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship

In the eastern section of Łazienki near the Palace on the Island stands a large, classical building constructed in a horseshoe plan. A smaller building which served as a kitchen for the Palace on the Island stood here in the 17th century. Seems it wasn’t large enough to serve King Stanisław August’s needs, so he expanded it into something called the ‘Great Annex’ in 1778, replete with apartments. Eventually it morphed into the Infantry Officer Cadets School in 1822, and it was from here that second lieutenant Piotr Wysocki led an uprising, aided by the young men of the school, which escalated into the nationwide November Uprising of 1830-31. Today the building houses a tourist info centre and ticket office for all of the park’s attractions, as well as some small temporary exhibits. Visiting time: 20mins.QJ‑11.

Very much as advertised, this museum will appeal to avid hunters and horse lovers, though the latter may have some trouble with all the mounted trophies. If so, you can skip the former Cantonists’ Barracks - built in 1826–1828 and full of hunting arms and taxidermied animals - and head straight to the Kubicki Stables, built 1825–1826 and home to an exhibit of horse-drawn carriages, saddles, harnesses and riding accessories; the Stables also host the Royal Weaving Workshop - featuring 19thcentury Jacquard looms, ornamental fabrics, old fabric patterns and more. Visiting time: 1hr.QJ‑12, ul. Szwoleżerów 9, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 522 66 30, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 16/8zł; kids under 7 free; students under 26, 1zł. Fri free. 43

Sightseeing | Wilanów

Wilanów

Full of flowering trees and blooming beds, Wilanów is a delight in spring.

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century 45ha palace and garden complex 10km south of the centre. Essential visiting for anyone wishing to understand the former grandeur of the Polish capital, Wilanów is more than just a palace. As one of the few existing remnants of the era when Poland was a vast kingdom stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea, today it also represents the European splendour and sophistication that was lost and few today associate with Warsaw. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings also represent the height of Polish Baroque and are collectively one of Poland’s greatest cultural treasures. If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend most of a day relaxing and taking in the sites here.

Getting There 10km south of the centre, Wilanów is best reached by bus or taxi, though the latter costs 35-40zł and essentially takes the same amount of time: 25‑35mins. All buses stop directly outside the palace gates at the ‘Wilanów’ stop. From Plac Zamkowy (F-4), Pl. Trzech Krzyży (H-8) or Łazienki Park (H-11) take buses 116 or 180. From Warszawa Centralna train station (E-8) take bus 519. For exact times and routes, check warsaw.jakdojade.pl. 44

What to See Wilanów Park & Gardens The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park developed over the centuries according to the particular fancies of its various owners. The park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s. Comprising a two-level Baroque garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscape park and the so-called English-Chinese landscape park, recent revitalisation works and archaeological digs discovered several artefacts, including ceramics dating from the 12th century.QP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow-palac.pl/. Open 09:00-15:00. Admission 7/4zł, Thu free (0zł ticket is still required).

Wilanów Palace Museum The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the palace’s interior, comes in two parts. The first is the upstairs Polish Portrait Gallery - comprising room after room of portraits of the rich and the powerful from the 16-19th

Wilanów | Sightseeing

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Potocki Mausoleum An extraordinary piece of funerary art, befitting two of Poland’s most powerful, wealthy and influential families, this tomb in Wilanów Park was dedicated to Stanisław Kostka Potocki and his wife Aleksandra (nee Lubomirska) Potocka by their son Aleksander. Designed in 1834 by Henryk Marconi and built between 1834-1836 by Jakub Tatarkiewicz and Konstanty Hegl, the mausoleum is made entirely of sandstone. Consisting of a Neo-Gothic canopy with lions holding shields bearing the crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski families in each corner, on the sarcophagus itself are the figures of the deceased, and around the sides symbols of their virtues and interests are displayed.QO‑2, Wilanów Park.

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Next you’ll find yourself downstairs in the Wilanów Palace Residence, featuring residential rooms, suits of armour, Etruscan vases, magnificent frescoes and even a private chapel. Most impressive are the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife, while the wings house the apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace. Visit the website for tickets and info about current temporary exhibits. Visiting time: 2hrs.QP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow-palac. art.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Tue, Wed. Admission 25/20zł. U

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century. If portraits are your thing you will find this very interesting, though the lack of descriptions is frustrating.

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was even used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who looted and damaged it. The church bells dating from 1723 and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people who hid them; today they are housed in the newly built Third Millennium Tower.QO‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 18, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.pl. Open 08:00-17:00; Sat 08:0012:00; Sun 13:00-17:00.

A church has stood on this site since the 14th century, when the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here, followed by a wooden Gothic version in the 16th century that stood throughout Sobieski’s day. In 1772 the new brick Church of St. Anne was founded by Prince August Adam Czartoryski based on a design by Jan Kotelnicki. Czartoryski’s grand-daughter, Aleksandra Lubomirska Potocka, decorated the church with art in the period 17991831, the most precious of which is the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary in the main altar. From 1857-1870, Aleksandra’s son August and his wife extended the church based on a Neo-Renaissance design by Henri Marconi, including adding the marvellous dome. In the surrounding gardens you will find terracotta shrines marking the fourteen Stations of the Cross, while the crypt houses the tombs of the Potocki family. The church suffered damage during both world wars and Potocki Mausoleum; photo by Chichebombon

Sightseeing | Praga

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Praga’s hipster high street: ul. Ząbkowska.

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Praga | Sightseeing ‘Gritty’ and ‘boho’ are just two of the terms tossed around to describe Praga, Warsaw’s eastern riverside district. Once regarded as off-limits due to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks, today an urban revival makes Praga worth highlighting – especially for those looking to get off the tourist trail and seeing the city’s artsy side. The current standardbearer for cool, folks here prefer their fun improvised and their bars dark. Filled with murals and hip hang outs, you can easily spend a day checking out the sights and vibes of this alternative district across the river from the Old Town. Getting here is easy: just take the M2 Metro to MDworzec Wileński. 1

Eat & Drink Locals will tell you that the best part of Praga isn’t the sightseeing, but the nightlife. The area’s main attraction is a vodka museum after all. You’ll find plenty of restaurants, cafes and bars in and around Praga Koneser Center, along ul. Ząbkowska and ul. Okrzei. Here are a few of the most emblematic hangouts in the ‘hood.

W Oparach Absurdu: A shabby-chic boho hangout full of battered lampshades and oriental rugs, offering coffee, craft beer, cocktails and pierogi, plus frequent concerts and events. QJ‑3, ul. Ząbkowska 6.

Praga Museum of Warsaw

Located in the oldest surviving residential buildings on Warsaw’s right bank, this modern museum boasts interactive exhibits that tell the story of Praga: its people, history, industry, bazaars and more. The cellars include the Residents’ Stories Archive and two prewar Jewish prayer rooms with original wall paintings; there’s even an observation terrace at the top. Visiting time: 1.5-2hrs.QJ‑3, ul. Targowa 50/52, tel. (+48) 22 518 34 30, www.muzeumpragi.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Thu, Sat 11:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł, permanent exhibit only 10/7zł, temporary exhibits 5/3zł; Thu free for perm exhibit. U 2

ul. Ząbkowska

Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated and its artistic vibe more felt than on Ząbkowska. Originally lined with timber frame houses, a fierce blaze in 1868 led to their replacement with tall tenements, all but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street so hard that wholesale demolition was seriously considered, but somehow it endured and today restoration work has seen many of the buildings returned to their former glory, streets repaved, and galleries and lively bars opened. You’ll know you’ve arrived at Praga’s high street when you discover the explosion of murals and street art at the topend where it meets ul. Targowa)QJ‑3. 3

Praga Koneser Center

Once the Koneser Vodka Factory (1897-2007), this large industrial site lay mostly derelict before getting a major revamp in recent years. Interesting from an architecture and urban renewal standpoint, the 5ha complex includes a tourist info point, the Polish Vodka Museum, the Magic Mind Museum, several art galleries and dozens of restaurants, cafes and bars, plus shops and services amongst the apartments and offices (including Google HQ). Host to frequent events and fairs, the premises are well worth exploring.QK‑2, Plac Konesera 2, www.koneser.eu. UK

3/4 Koneser Bar: Skip the museum and head straight to this bar hidden on the 3rd floor of the Vodka Museum to try their delicious alcohol infusions and cokctails, and enjoy beautiful views. QK‑2, Plac Konesera 1.

Hydrozagadka: This scruffy surrealist nightclub in a Praga courtyard is where locals go to party hard, and anyone is welcome. Open Fri & Sat only, check FB for events.QJ-2, ul. 11 Listopada 22.

Polish Vodka Museum

Set inside a former vodka factory, this multimedia museum is visited with a live tour guide or audio guide. The experience takes you from the origins of vodka to modern production methods, showing you plenty of paraphernalia and treating you to a tasting of this strong spirit so deeply tied to Polish history. Entries are timed (PL and EN tours hourly) and it’s wise to look at all the tour options online and book in advance. Visiting time: 1.5hrs.QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 1, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 50, www.muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl. Open 12:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-21:00; closed Mon. Audio guides/standard tours 40zł. 6 5

Neon Museum

Yet another old industrial space turned cultural hub is Soho Factory, the biggest draw of which is no doubt the illuminating (non-pun intended) Neon Museum. The passionate curators of this private museum have collected hundreds of Communist-era neon signs, saving them from oblivion in the process. One of Warsaw’s most photogenic places. Visiting time: 30mins.QM‑4, ul. Mińska 25, Soho Factory, Building 55, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 665 71 16 35, www.neonmuzeum.org. Open 12:00-18:00; Sun 11:0017:00; closed Wed. Admission 16/13zł. U6 47

Zachęta National Art Gallery (p.55) | Photo by Anna Zagrodzka

Art, History & Culture Warsaw’s combination of these three is what makes it so exciting. Whether you’re an art lover, amateur historian, or tracing your roots, Warsaw’s heady brew of imperial grandeur, prewar glamour, 20th century tragedy, socialist austerity and present-day dynamism makes it unique in Europe and offers much to the visitor. Use this chapter of the guide to discover the capital’s art spaces and current exhibitions, find out about museums ranging from niche to national, and learn about sites related to some of the most important events in Warsaw’s modern history. 48

Art Tourism | Art, History & Culture

Warsaw’s Most Exciting Art Spaces Warsaw is the centre of Poland’s contemporary art scene and home to countless pieces of priceless art. While Kraków’s collections skew more historical, Warsaw boasts a great variety of exhibits showcasing younger artists as well as the nation’s masters. When it comes to art tourism, temporary exhibits are often as or more important than permanent collections, so check the current exhibitions on p.50. 1

Zachęta National Gallery of Art

Warsaw National Museum

Museum on the Vistula

Unmissable. One of the leading art galleries in Poland, with a focus on the contemporary. Ask the locals what to do in Warsaw - they’ll send you here. QSee p.55. Polish and European masters, Polish design, ancient African art and 5 decades of painting can all be found inside the exhibits of this stately museum. QSee p.55. Warsaw’s MoMA, right on the riverside in an eye-catching pavilion. Inside are provocative contemporary art exhibits by international artists. QSee p.39.

Ujazdowski Castle

Neon Museum

BUW Gallery

Contemporary art in a rebuilt palace. One of PL’s most prestigious and provocative art centres, with an extensive program of exhibits, performances, film screenings and more.QSee p.55. Small, but brilliantly illuminating and highly photogenic, this museum displays hundreds of historical neon signs saved from destruction.QSee p.47. Located in the University Library, this gallery (and shop) showcases vintage and contemporary graphics by artists of the famous Polish Poster School. Very cool.QSee p.39.

Murals & Street Art What about art in public spaces? Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with Polish print advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality. With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would have a penchant for street art as well. And they do. In Warsaw both graffiti art and largescale murals are a common sight, with the city and private businesses even inviting international artists to do installations. You’ll find a particularly high volume of murals on buildings in Praga, Wola and around the City Centre, where the urban landscape is changing most rapidly. Although it’s a dynamic situation, as many murals are installed on buildings that later become designated for demolition, at WIYP we keep a close eye on murals and urban art, marking major works on all of our maps; just look for the spray can icon . Not only that, but we’ve meticulously put it all online with exact GPS coordinates, so that your smartphone can do the work of leading you directly to Warsaw’s alternative artistic visions: iyp.me/73221f. 49

What’s Cooking?

A Close-up on Jewish Culinary Culture March 10 – December 12 ‘What’s Cooking?’ - the new temporary exhibition at the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews - looks at Jewish cuisine across the globe and throughout history, examining how typical Jewish dishes are prepared and the meanings they carry. ‘You are what you eat,’ as they say, but more than being a reminder of the importance of healthy eating habits, this common phrase aptly implies that food is inherently tied to identity. When it comes to Jewish identity, culinary culture has always reinforced and enhanced the sense of belonging to a wider community, while also highlighting Jewish diversity and distinctiveness. As this exhibition reveals, the story of Jewish cuisine is simultaneously the story of Jewish religion, culture and history. At the root of Jewish cuisine is the religious foundation that holds it together - kashrut - and its strict rules for preparing meals. By understanding these religious dietary laws we see how they have informed the creation of certain dishes, alongside other influences such as the specific products available in an area, or the culinary traditions of neighbouring cultures. The exhibition presents a variety of Jewish dishes from across the diaspora, looking at their origins and how they became widespread as a result of numerous migrations, from the Middle Ages to the great waves of migration in the 19th and 20th centuries. 50

If you’ve ever wondered what potato pancakes have in common with latkes, how Polish gołąbki differ from holishikes, how chulent differs from adafina, or why New Yorkers consider pickled gherkins and borscht Jewish food - this exhibit not only asks, but answers these hard-hitting questions. Finally, we see how some people are breaking away from Jewish cooking traditions today, while others are rediscovering their culinary roots. It all goes to demonstrate just how diverse and difficult to define Jewish culinary traditions are. With all this talk about food, it should be noted that POLIN is one of the best places in town to taste Jewish cuisine. The buffet of the museum’s wonderful Warsze restaurant offers dozens of rich and aromatic dishes based on traditional Jewish recipes (including kosher options) every day. A culinary journey back to pre-war Warsaw, the current exhibit makes us more excited to eat here than ever. L’chaim!QD‑4, POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, Admission 20/15zł, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-20:00; closed Tue.

Current Exhibitions | Art, History & Culture UNTIL 30.06 » Cosmos Discovery Exhibition For the first time ever in Poland, NASA’s bountiful collection of real spacecraft components, astronautical equipment and life-size recreations of historic space stations and crafts give visitors the chance to experience the adventure of space travel like never before! This exhibition includes hundreds of original rockets, shuttles and spacesuits from both the American and Russian programmes, all of which have done their time in space, as well as exhibits from space missions in which Poland has also participated. Over an area of over 3,000 m2, it will also be possible to see parts of original space shuttles, orbital stations and spacecraft that have made it back to earth! Perhaps the biggest draw for visitors is the opportunity to enter life-size recreations of these landmarks in science and technology, like the MIR orbital station, the cockpit of the Columbia space shuttle, and a stroll around the Mercury and Apollo 11 spacecrafts, plus many more! It’s not all about the past, however, and you can learn about the latest projects by NASA, Space X and other agencies/private companies who aim to colonise the Moon and, one day, fly to Mars. Thrillseekers even have the opportunity to experience the interactive Cosmos Camp, used for astronaut training with state-of-the-art 3D technology!QNowa Praga Museum, ul. Jagiellońska 82A, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 791 39 43 10, Tickets from 35-70zł, www.cosmosdiscovery.pl.

25.03 - 05.06 » Uncensored. Polish Independent Art of the 1980s

UNTIL 24.04 » Jarosław Modzelewski. A Country on the Vistula River An overview of several decades of work by contemporary Warsaw painter Jarosław Modzelewski, this exhibition steers away from chronological curation, and instead focuses on recurring themes and motifs - foremost among them, the Vistula River (PL: Wisła), Poland’s largest waterway. A common thread throughout most of the artist’s career, the Vistula is presented as a symbol of Polish identity through small-yet-significant details of the ordinary activities and landscapes of everyday life in Poland, in place of romanticised or solemn historical events. QI‑10, Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art, ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, Admission 10/5zł, Thu free. www.u-jazdowski.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 12:00 21:00. Closed Mon.

23.04 - 24.07 » Chagall The National Museum’s newly acquired collection of 14 works by the early French modernist Marc Chagall, which were created in the heyday of Western European drawing and printmaking techniques in the 60s and 70s. During this time, the artist combined gouache and tempera, crayon, pencil, coloured ink and pastel to achieve vibrance and intensity. Chagall’s works can be viewed on two levels: reality and fantasy. Scenes depicted in this work evoke moments from the Old Testament, which are particularly open to interpretation, while others portray lovers, flowers, animals and references to childhood. QH‑8, Warsaw National Museum, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, Admission 20/10zł for permanent exhibits; kids and students up to 26, 1zł; Tue free. www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

Showcasing a broad panorama of artistic phenomena through which artists manifested their opposition to the Polish communist regime, Uncensored presents the state of Polish culture in the 1980s. At the time, artists reacted to the introduction of martial law by boycotting the government’s cultural policy, refusing to appear in official institutions and platforms. These independent exhibits took place in private homes and churches, supported by the Solidarity trade union and other worker fraternities. Each work manifested a sense that only independent culture is able to express the fundamental human experience that is the desire for freedom!QI‑10, Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art, ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, Admission 16/8zł to all exhibitions, for two exhibitions 12/6zł, for one exhibition 10/5zł, entrance to project room 5zł, students up to 26 years of age 1zł. Thu free. www.u-jazdowski.pl. Open 12:00 Marc Chagall at the National Museum 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

Art, History & Culture | Museums

Warsaw boasts some superior museums, ranging from world-class attractions full of multimedia displays, to small institutions covering niche historical events. It’s more than we have space to cover here, but you’ll find them all listed and up-todate on our website. In this guide, some of the city’s most important museums are listed within the district tours of Sightseeing section, while the rest of the best are here. Descriptions focus on each museum’s permanent collection; for current temporary exhibits, see p.50.

Archdiocese Museum Opened in 1938, this Old Town Museum showcases more than 20,000 items dating from the Middle Ages up to today, and is surprising for its wealth of secular art. Split into two sections - the Sacred and the Profane - the former includes old monstrances, chalices and liturgical vestments, as well as paintings and sculptures presenting scenes from the life of Jesus, Mary and the saints, plus personal items once belonging to Pope John Paul II. The latter includes lots of furniture and clocks, plus sculpture and paintings, including works by famous artists such as Wyspiański, Matejko, Malczewski, Józef Czapski and even Beksiński. One of the highlights of the museum is to enter the ‘Royal Corridor’ (also known as the ‘Piekarski Corridor’) that formerly connected the Royal Castle with the Cathedral, and was built to ensure King Sigismund III Vasa’s safe passage between the two following an assassination attempt in 1620. Visiting time: 1hr.QG‑4, ul. Dziekania 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 621 34 14, www.maw.art.pl. 52

Open 12:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 25/18zł. U

Katyń Museum Found in the Warsaw Citadel - a massive 19th century fortress - this museum documents the shocking events of 1940 when 22,000 Polish officers were executed by their Soviet captors in the middle of a Russian forest. The museum has a host of objects, documents and personal effects that have been recovered from the site near Smoleńsk, Russia. The artefacts from the victims and a scrolling list of their names need no explanation, while the multimedia presentation of the extenuating circumstances, the victims’ stories and the entire event’s historical relevancy are wellthought out and thoroughly moving. Visiting time: 2hrs.QE‑1, ul. Jana Jeziorańskiego 4 (entrance from Nowomiejska gate), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 261 87 83 42, www.muzeumkatynskie.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission free. Guided tours (EN, PL) 60zł. Audioguides (EN, PL, DE, FR, RU) 10zł. U

Museums | Art, History & Culture Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum

Museum of Life under Communism

Born in Warsaw on November 7, 1867, local lass Maria Skłodowska would become better known to the world as Madame Marie Curie. Located in the building she was born in, this charming museum pays homage to the life and work of the two-time Nobel Prize-winning physicist and chemist, whose many accomplishments include the discovery of polonium (named after the country of her birth). Comprising five rooms, visitors will learn about her family and early life, see a recreation of her Parisian laboratory, plus many personal effects, including private letters, scientific instruments, and the black georgette coat worn during her last stay in Poland in 1932. Of particular interest is an elephant, gifted by US President Herbert Hoover, which Skłodowska-Curie received during her 1929 visit to the White House the purpose of which was to secure $50,000 for the purchase of a gram of radium for the fledgling Radium Institute in Warsaw. Visiting time: 1hr.QF‑3, ul. Freta 16, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 80 92, www.mmsc. waw.pl. Open 12:00-18:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 11/6zł, Tue free. U

If Warsaw’s communist history isn’t vivid enough for you on a walk around the capital, immerse yourself in PRL vibes at this private museum. Showing what everyday life was like for locals during the years of Poland’s communist rule, the nostalgic exhibits include a recreation of a typical PRL-era apartment, plus plenty of photos, artefacts and relics that demonstrate the difficulty and absurdity of those times. Bittersweet for older Poles and eye-opening for foreigners. Visiting time: 1hr.QG‑10, ul. Piękna 28/34 (corner of Plac Konstytucji and ul. Piękna), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 511 04 48 08, www.mzprl.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 12:00-20:00. Admission 20/14zł. Audioguides free on Thu (EN, FR, IT, ESP)

Museum of Caricature & Cartoon Art This obscure little museum offers a rich diversion for those interested in comics, cartoons, ‘the funny papers’ and any odd or humourous illustrations. Named after its founder and first director - Polish satirist and caricaturist Eryk Lipiński - the collection dates back to 1978 and includes over 25,000 drawings, paintings, posters and sculptures, some dating all the way back to the 18th century. Of course the contemporary stuff is the funniest, and the collection includes many foreign artists as well as Polish ones. This is about as niche as it gets, and ‘The Guardian’ named it one of the ‘10 Best Museums in Europe You’ve Probably Never Heard Of.’ Visiting time: 1hr.QF‑5, ul. Kozia 11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 88 95, www.muzeumkarykatury.pl. Open 10:0013:00, 14:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł. Tue free.

National Ethnographic Museum Tragically overlooked by most visitors to Warsaw, this joy of a museum showcases all that’s best about Poland’s cultural heritage - colourful folk costumes, customs and traditions, tools and instruments, outsider art, handicrafts and more - all of it beautifully presented in a superb historical building. Interestingly, there’s also a ‘Korean Gallery’ with a traditional Korean ‘hanok’. One of the city’s most active cultural institutions, they host many events and worskhops, and you can expect multiple temporary exhibits at a time (check online for details). Visiting time: 2-3hrs. QF‑6, ul. Kredytowa 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.ethnomuseum.pl. Open 11:0019:00; Thu 11:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-18:00; closed Mon. Tickets 14/7zł, Thu free. U

Museum of Dollhouses, Games & Toys A small, charming and antiquated museum fittingly located right in Warsaw’s Old Town. Showcasing over 150 highly-detailed historical dollhouses, plus various other minature settings, the museum’s two permanent exhibits - ‘The Bygone World of Dollhouses’ and ‘Religious Toys’ - both show unique handcrafted models, costumes and toys, while also demonstrating how tastes and fashions have changed over time. Another small branch nearby at ul. Krzywe Koło 2/4 (F-4) hosts temporary exhibits (currently toys from the PRL-era). Visiting time: 45-60mins.QF‑4, ul. Podwale 15, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 797 72 30 29, www.muzeumdomkow.pl. Open 11:00-19:00. Tickets 28/18zł, kids under 1m tall, free.

A massive fortress housing the Katyń Museum, one of Warsaw’s most evocative spaces.

Art, History & Culture | Museums

Invisible Exhibition Would you pay for an exhibition you can’t see? This unique experience takes you into the world of the sightless, and you’re led there by guides who are all partially or completely blind themselves. To get you acclimated to the challenges blind people face daily, you’ll tap on a Braille typewriter, test out gadgets that help the sightless do tasks in the kitchen, and try to solve simple puzzles while wearing a blindfold. Once you’re sufficiently awed by your inability to do even minor tasks, next is a series of pitch-black rooms that force you to rely on your other senses. You’ll feel the contours of a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is, listen for cars before crossing the street, and, if you bring some cash, the guide will even serve you a drink in the completely dark bar. An eyeopening experience that will have you thinking heavily about what you take for granted, if you’re interested in visiting, it’s wise to book online in advance. Tours in English can be arranged, but you must first email them via info@niewidzialna. pl with TOUR IN ENGLISH as the subject line. Visiting time: 1hr.QC‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 504 32 44 44, www.niewidzialna.pl. Open 14:00-20:00; Fri 12:0020:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00. Admission 35/30zł; Sat, Sun 39/33zł. N

NBP Money Centre Though it may look uninspiring from the outside, inside the HQ of the National Bank of Poland lies one of Warsaw’s best museums - and it’s free! Okay, we know, the airport-style security is a bit much, and economics is not the most enticing topic, but hear us out: this super-modern and fantastically interactive journey through the history of world commerce - from ancient civilisations to the present day - is great fun for both kids and adults. Along the way you’ll explore a walk-in safe, get to hold a real bar of gold (heavier than you think!) and learn how to spot fake banknotes. Recommended. Visiting time: 1.52hrs.QG‑7, ul. Świętokrzyska 11/21, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 185 25 25, www.cpnbp.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Thu 10:00-20:00; closed Mon.

Pharmacy Museum This charming Old Town museum presents the quaint interior of an interwar pharmacy filled with glass vials and beakers, wooden furnishings, period advertisements and vintage pharmaceutical equipment. Inside you’ll get a healthy dose of history about medicine, poison, and narcotics. Although niche, it really is a wonderful visit; in fact a recent refurbishment has resulted in a nomination for European Museum of the Year 2022.QF‑4, ul. Piwna 31/33, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 71 79, www. muzeumfarmacji.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 10:0018:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/7zł. Thu free.

Railway Museum

Vial predicament at the Pharmacy Museum

This train museum is located in Warszawa Główna Osobowa (Warsaw Main Railway Station), which originally served as a goods transport hub on the Warsaw-Vienna line from 1875, becoming a main train station from 1945 as it was one of the few to not be destroyed during the Second World War; it was closed in 1997. Inside are four large rooms full of working and static models of classic and modern trains, large train sets, uniforms and old engines in all possible conditions. Outside you’ll find one of the few (if not only) remaining armoured railway trains in Europe. Heaven if you like this kind of thing, and made even better by sound English translations. Visiting time: 60-90mins.QC‑9, ul. Towarowa 3, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 620 04 80, www.stacjamuzeum.pl. Open 10:00-18:00. Admission 14/7zł; kids under 7 free; Mon free. U

Museums | Art, History & Culture

Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art Completed in a Baroque style in 1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII and torn down by communist authorities, who built a military theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed and the 1970s saw the castle rebuilt to its original design. Today several large exhibition halls showcase a rotating collection of the very best contemporary art; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, by leading Polish and international artists. The castle also houses a very good bookshop, a fantastic cinema (U-Jazdowski Kino) and a top-notch restaurant/café, plus it’s surrounded by a lovely park. Visiting time: 2hrs.QI‑10, ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, www.u-jazdowski.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Thu, Fri 12:0020:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission for all exhibits 16/8zł; 2 exhibits 12/6zł; 1 exhibit 10/5zł; project room 5zł; students up to 26, 1zł; Thu free. U

Warsaw National Museum Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre inter-war building, this is Warsaw’s most comprehensive art museum, leading you from the ancient world through the middle ages up to the 19th century. Along the way you’ll see the some of the country’s most priceless works,

including 15th century Dutch masters and Botticelli, plus Polish masters like Chełmoński, Matejko and Wyspiański. There’s also the Gallery of Polish Design and the Faras Gallery - the latter of which holds a rare exhibit of medieval Nubian art from the Nile River Valley, plus temporary exhibits. Visiting time: 3hrs.QH‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 10:0020:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/10zł for permanent exhibits; kids and students up to 26, 1zł; Tue free. U

Zachęta National Gallery of Art One of the leading galleries in Poland, with a focus on the contemporary. Located in a beautiful Renaissancestyle palace in the centre of Warsaw, just across from the Saxon Garden, the setting itself is worth a visit. What makes Zachęta more of a gallery than museum is that there is no core permenant exhibition on display, but rather top-notch temporary exhibits showcasing the best in Polish and international contemporary art. As a result you get leading-edge art in an old European environment. Recommended. Visiting time 60-90mins.QF‑6, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art. pl. Open 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/10zł, family ticket 25zł, students 2zł. Thu free. U6 55

Art, History & Culture | Jewish Warsaw

Jewish Warsaw The spectacular wooden synagogue installation at POLIN.

When Nazi Germany invaded Poland in September 1939, Warsaw’s thriving Jewish population numbered approximately 350,000 - only New York City could boast a larger community. Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare, Poland had been seen as a relative safe haven, and it attracted Jewish settlers forced into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war years the Jewish population had made significant contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland. As we know, Nazi occupation meant the complete dehumanisation and systematic destruction of Poland’s Jews, who were first forced into ghettos, where they faced violence, starvation and disease, and then deported to Nazi death camps where they were executed. The Warsaw Ghetto was the largest of WWII and occupied much of the City Centre, as you can see by its outline on the maps in this guide (p.8, p.19). At its height it imprisoned 460,000 Jews in an area of 3.4km2. After more than 254,000 Varsovian Jews were sent to their deaths at Treblinka in the summer of 1942, those remaining began building bunkers and smuggling weapons into the Ghetto in preparation for what would be the war’s largest act of Jewish resistance. Beginning on April 19, 1943, 56

Jewish fighting units engaged German troops in guerilla warfare within the walls of the Ghetto in a final, doomed act of bravery, defiance and protest against the world’s silence and inaction. When the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising ended 27 days later with the German command’s symbolic detonation of the Great Synagogue, 13,000 Jews had been killed, almost half of them perishing from the fire and smoke as the Nazis burned the Ghetto to the ground, building by building. Of the remaining 50,000 Jews, almost all of them were captured and perished at the Majdanek or Treblinka Nazi death camps. Following WWII, much of Warsaw’s surviving Jewish population chose to emigrate to the U.S., the British mandate of Palestine (taking an active part in the creation of Israel) and elsewhere. Today Warsaw’s Jewish community is estimated at only about 2,000, but the city’s Jewish heritage remains an essential part of its identity, honoured today by innumerable monuments, memorials, museums and events. For a full list of Jewish tourism sites in Warsaw, visit our website.

Jewish Warsaw | Art, History & Culture

What to See Anielewicz Bunker Only 350m from POLIN, this small mound and memorial marks the site of the large bunker from which the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising was lead by the Jewish Combat Organisation (ŻOB). Located beneath the tenement at the wartime address of ul. Miła 18 (today Miła 2), the bunker was discovered and surrounded by the Nazis on May 8, 1943, with about 300 people hiding inside. Given the chance to surrender, half of the occupants - mostly civilians - gave themselves up, but the ŻOB insurrectionists chose to stay and fight. When the Nazis used gas to force them out, many of the ŻOB fighters chose suicide. 120 fighters died, including ŻOB commander Mordechai Anielewicz and his girlfriend Mira Fuchrer; only about 15 survived (many of whom perished later). The bodies of the dead were never exhumed and covered over with rubble from the surrounding tenements to make this mound after the war. Today two monuments can be found on/near the memorial with inscriptions commemorating their sacrifice. QD‑3, ul. Miła 2, MDworzec Gdański.

Jewish Historical Institute This amazing historical building that stood next to Warsaw’s Great Synagogue houses the Oneg Shabbat Archive, also known as the Ringelblum Archive - a secretly kept collection of documents, reports, essays, letters and other materials recording exactly what life was like in the Warsaw Ghetto, by those who were experiencing it, as it happened. As the Ghetto came under seige in 1943, the vast and carefully organised archive was secretly buried in three containers in three separate locations. Sadly, only the first two have been recovered, but they represent such extraordinary witness testimony that they were inscribed on UNESCO’s Memory of the World List. In the permanent exhibit here you will see the original documents of the Archive, the authentic containers and more. Incredibly powerful and important, if you don’t have the time for POLIN, this is a great alternative. There are also temporary exhibits and an excellent bookshop. Visiting time: 90mins.QE‑5, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Tue 09:00-20:00; Fri 09:00-16:00; Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Sat. Admission 15/10zł. Mon free.

200,000 tombs and is the final resting place of many generations of Varsovian Jews, including Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto.QB‑5, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.cemetery.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Fri 10:00-15:00; closed Sat. Admission 10zł. N

POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews One of the best museums in Poland, POLIN explains a millennium of Polish Jewish history and relations through excellent multimedia displays that earned it the prestigious European Museum of the Year award in 2016. Located within the former area of the Warsaw Ghetto during World War II, the modern building itself is a stunning structure of copper and glass. Each of the eight galleries addresses a different era in the long history of the Jewish people in Poland, from the 10th century to the tragic events of the 20th. While the Holocaust is described in detail, the museum’s permanent exhibition is primarily a celebration of 1,000 years of Jewish life in Poland. Exhaustive and fascinating, it takes the better part of a day to explore. The temporary exhibits (currently ‘What’s Cooking?’ - an exhibit about Jewish culinary culture, see. 56) are also of such quality that they require their own ticket, and the museum is also home to a cafe and an excellent canteen-style restaurant serving traditional Jewish cuisine (kosher dishes available). In the middle of a green public square, outside the museum visitors will also see several monuments, including a massive memorial the heroes of the Warsaw Ghetto. Visiting time: 3hrs.QD‑4, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-20:00; closed Tue. Perm. exhibit 30/20zł; temp. exhibit 20/15zł; kids 7-16 and students with valid ID 1zł; Thu free. Audioguide 12zł. U

Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery A beautiful and poignant place to visit, this is Warsaw’s only active Jewish cemetery. Established in 1806 beyond the city trenches (‘okopy,’ where today’s Okopowa Street runs), the cemetery houses some

Okopowa Jewish Cemetery

photo by Adrian Grycuk

Art, History & Culture | Warsaw Uprising

Warsaw Uprising Polish Home Army soldiers in action, 1944

August 1, 1944. Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist hegemony, rose up in rebellion in what would be the largest uprising in the German occupied territories. With German morale in ribbons, a retreat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army on the east bank of the Wisła, no time seemed better than the present. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime military movement a.k.a the Armia Krajowa or AK) launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an independent government. What ensued was an epic 63 day struggle during which the Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler.

17:00 - W-Hour On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski, 5pm signalled W-Hour (‘Wybuch’ standing for outbreak), the time when some 40,000 members of the Home Army would attack key German positions. Warsaw at the time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any numerical supremacy the Poles had was offset by a chronic lack of weapons. Nonetheless the element of surprise caught the Germans off guard, and in spite of heavy losses the Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the Old Town, Prudential Tower and the post office. The first day cost the lives of 2,000 Poles, yet for the first time since occupation 58

the Polish flag fluttered once more over the capital. Within days German reinforcements poured in, and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. It was to prove a mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, cultural life thrived. Better still, the first allied airdrops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under the command of Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks. Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on the insurgents' side was an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance. Airdrops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate. All hopes rested on the Russians.

Warsaw Uprising | Art, History & Culture After six weeks of inaction Red Army Marshal Rokossovsky finally gave the go-ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the river. The operation was a debacle, with heavy casualties and no headway made. This single attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaw’s Old Town had become untenable, and a daring escape route was hatched through the sewers running under the city. The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken with glee. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were forced to capitulate, some 63 days after they had taken on the Reich.

The Aftermath Having deposited their weaponry, 11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city. ‘No stone can remain standing,’ warned Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings of importance to Polish culture were dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas were simply burned to the ground. Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around $54bn. In human terms Poland lost much more. With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very foundation a new post-war Poland could build on.

Warsaw Rising Museum

Opened in 2004, this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with interactive, multimedia displays, period artefacts, photos, video footage and plenty of sounds effects, this museum is guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram power station, the 2,000m2 space is split over several levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of the 1944 Uprising - provided they don’t make any wrong turns; it’s a common mistake, and, as such, an audiguide is handy (follow the numbers even if you don’t have one). Crowded on weekends, weekdays are the best time to visit, and you should set aside several hours for the experience. Visitors start by learning about life under Nazi rule, with immersive displays including a clandestine radio station and covert printing press. The mezzanine level features a film detailing the first month of battle, including the opportunity to clamber through a mock sewer. There is also an exact replica of the B24 Allied planes used to make supply drops over the besieged city. The final sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant display about the city’s destruction; take time to watch the black and white ‘before and after’ shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Nazis. Near the exit check out the film City of Ruins, a silence-inducing 5min 3D aerial ‘film’ that uses old photos and new tech to recreate the desolation of ‘liberated’ Warsaw in March 1945. A viewing platform (open weather permitting) and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this high impact experience. Visiting time: 3hrs.QB‑7, ul. Grzybowska 79, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 539 79 05, www.1944.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:0018:00; closed Tue. Admission 25/20zł (children under 7 free). Sun free. Audioguides in 27 languages 10zł p/person. U

The Old Town Market Square in ruins, 1945.

Activities & Experiences Hey, it doesn’t all have to be exhausting museums and knee-lifts as you explore Poland’s largest city. Check out the local activities below if you’re looking for fun alternatives to traditional sightseeing, ready to try something new, or simply want some rest and relaxation. Hulakula Leisure Centre This modern indoor family entertainment centre has it all. Strut you stuff on one of their 28 10-pin bowling lanes, break balls on one of 8 LEO Black King billiard tables, or go oldschool with their classic arcade games, pinball machines and air hockey tables. There’s a soft-toy toddler zone, plush castle maze playground for older kids, restaurant, bar, seasonal grill and even DJ parties after the kids go home. Qul. Jagiellońska 82B, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 669 00 10 01, www.hulakula.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Thu 12:0024:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00. U

Stacja Grawitacja Gravity getting you down? Get the bounce back in your step at this huge trampoline park that also features interactive digital games, an indoor ropes course, obstacle course, and even a climbing wall featuring over 100 routes. Put on a pair of anti-slip socks (available for 7zł, or bring your own) and join the fun. Children ages 3-6 must be accompanied by adults; older kids can be let loose while parents hang out at the well-stocked Gravitation Station cafe.Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 13 06 66, www.stacjagrawitacja.pl/ warszawa/. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00.

Thai Bali Spa Thai Bali Spa continues a 2000-year-old tradition of massage therapy which aids in keeping the mind, body and soul healthy. Choose from various massages including elements of yoga, stretching, acupressure, Japanese Shiatsu massage and reflexotherapy, plus oils and soothing body cocktails. The skilled massage therapists - all of whom hail from Thailand or Bali - will have you feeling fresh and rejuvenated in no time. Also at ul. Grzybowska 3 (E-7).QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 48, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 663 55 11 22, www.thaibalispa.pl. Open 12:00-21:00. 60

Activities & Experiences

MK Bowling Entertainment Center Found inside Galeria Młociny in the northern district of Bielany, this modern entertainment centre is just 2 mins away from the final stop of the M1 metro line ‘Metro Młociny’. Once you’re there, you have the choice of 12 bowling lanes and 3 billiards tables, all serviced with a bar (also an activity for many) that also dishes out Neapolitan-style pizza. Call in advance to reserve.Qul. Zgrupowania AK Kampinos 15 (Galeria Młociny, 2nd floor), MMłociny, tel. (+48) 600 80 05 56, www.mkbowling.pl/start-warszawa. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00.

World of Illusion A strict break from the stuffiness of the Old Town, this fun, colourful museum is exciting and educational for all ages. Enter the Matrix, a mirror room, a vortex, the room of shadows - it all sounds out-of-this world, and in a sense, it is! Pefect for groups and pairs, make sure your phone is fully charged so you don’t miss these photo-ops, and go discover the extent to which the mind can be tricked by the eye.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 21, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 501 80 80 06, www.swiatiluzji.pl. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00. Admission 35/27zł. 6

Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki Of all Polish gifts, none are as visually exciting as Bolesławiec pottery. At Pomaluj.art you not only get the chance to buy gifts, but you can join workshops to make and paint anything you want in the studio! The staff speak English and will teach you the history of Bolesławiec pottery during your session! Show the Warsaw In Your Pocket guide or map, to receive an in-store 8% discount!QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 80 01 84, www.pomaluj.art. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed Sun. 61

Activities & Experiences | Kids & Families

Kids & Families In addition to bouncy floors, Stacja Grawitacja (p.60) also boasts the best 3D VR gaming experience in Poland!

While Warsaw has plenty of wonders, not every cultural site is going to be engaging for young visitors. The first step to having a successful family vacation is probably to just accept that what you and your kids want to do are not going to be one and the same. That said, there’s common ground to be found in some of Warsaw’s most popular attractions. Wandering the Old Town (p.24) or Łazienki (p.40) will likely please everyone, as will a walk along the Vistula Boulevards (p.37) - a great outing with plenty of diversions, most obvious of which is the stimulating and educational Copernicus Science Centre (p.39), but also the University Library Rooftop Gardens (p.39) and Multimedia Fountain Park further north. You’ll also find playgrounds along the river, and in the high season you can take a ferry to the wild side of Wisła and enjoy one of the city’s wild beaches. Although it may sound more like punishment, kids really respond to the interactive exhibits of the highly modern Warsaw Rising Museum (p.59), which features areas designed specifically for young visitors. Some of Warsaw’s more niche museums like the NBP Money Centre (p.54), Museum of Dollhouses (p.53), Railway Museum (p.54) and Photoplasticon are also good choices for families. Of course, Warsaw has plenty of action-packed indoor attractions (p.60), so don’t miss the rainy day recommendations on the previous pages. Panoramic viewpoints are also a winner with kids, 62

so in addition to those at the Rising Museum and University Gardens, check out St. Anne’s tower (p.30) near Plac Zamkowy, the Museum of Warsaw (p.28) on the Old Town Square and the viewing terrace on the 30th floor of the Palace of Culture & Science (p.17).

Multimedia Fountain Park Located near the river a short walk north of the Old Town, the main feature of this park is - you guessed it - the modern, multimedia fountain. Modestly impressive by day, in the evening the fountain puts on extraordinary displays that combine music, light and water, creating visual effects of remarkable clarity such as Warsaw’s iconic Syrenka (Mermaid) moving through the water. Quite a show, these performance typically begin in May, but the spring schedule was unknown at press time, so check online. Across the street is the ‘Warsaw Family Zone’ (open 08:00-20:00; Fri 08:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00), which features a playground and mini water park. QF‑3, Skwer im. I Dywizji Pancernej, MDworzec Gdański, www.park-fontann.pl. Admission free.

Kids & Families | Activities & Experiences Pinball Station Listen here, sonny boy. Back in the days before every whippersnapper on the block had a gaming console in their blue jeans, folks used to go down to the arcade and play the pinball machines for a little entertainment. Relive those pre-digital days in this wildly fun and nostalgic pinball museum, featuring over 90 working machines you can play on, some of which date back to the 1930s. A great place to introduce this old school game to younger generations, admission gets you unlimited play for the entire day; you can even leave and come back later.QB-9, ul. Kolejowa 8A, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 600 63 31 15, www.pinballstation.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:0022:00. Admission 45/39zł; kids under 12, 29zł.

Warsaw Photoplasticon Hidden in a darkened pre-war tenement near the train station, a visit here really is a trip back in time. A popular form of entertainment in the pre-cinema era, a ‘photoplasticon’ is basically a 3D peep show (no, not the saucy kind) set inside a huge rotating drum, where visitors sit in front of a viewing station to see vivid photos as they slowly rotate by. Although photoplasticons were quickly made obsolete by moving pictures, this one, which has located here since 1905, somehow stayed open, surviving the war and even serving as a meeting point for intellectuals during the communist era. Today a visit to this stereoscopic theatre offers a quick, nostalgic diversion from Warsaw’s urban buzz. Check online to see what’s loaded into the machine (does it matter?) from their collection of over 7,000 stereoscopic images of times, places and people long gone. Visiting time: 20mins. QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 51, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 60 78, www.fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission 10/6zł; Thu free.

Warsaw Zoo Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors each year. In total there are 13,000 animals here, across 500 species. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent years, though a visit here will do little to change any opinions you have on locking animals in cages. It was bombed at the beginning of WWII and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during the 1944 Uprising, he helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo.QH‑3, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Open 09:00-18:00. Admission 30/20zł. 63

Breakfast & Brunch For some the direction of the day depends on the ability to eat a good breakfast, so we’ve highlighted some of our favourite places in Warsaw that specialise in śniadania (the Polish word for breakfast). Whether you’re an early bird that’s tired of eating worms, or a late riser that overdid it a bit last night, get a good first feed in the places below. Chaud Pain A lovely and quite clever French cafe/bakery - the name ‘Chaud Pain’ (‘Hot Bread’) sounds a lot like the last name of Warsaw’s darling, Fryderyk Chopin. This airy boulangerie churns out a range of artisanal breads and baked goods. Soak up the Parisian ambiance with a coffee and croissant, or grab a sandwich and other to-go goodies from their delicatessen: high-quality caviar, canned seafood, meats, cheeses and more. Très chic.QG‑5, ul. Ossolińskich 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 797 01 29 41, www.chaudpain.pl. Open 09:00-19:00; Sun 09:00-18:00. TU6

Bułkę przez Bibułkę A great little place that makes you feel like you’re in a smalltown setting as opposed to a busy street in Warsaw! It’s important to highlight they serve all-day-breakfasts, from bagels to soups and sandwiches, and a Cappuccino or Americano on the side only costs an extra 5zł. Furthermore, 0.5l wine is 16zł from 18:00-21:00 daily, and Prosecco 5zł! Also on ul. Zwycięzców 32 in Saska Kępa, ul. Puławska 24 in the Mokotów district and Żurawia 6/12.QG‑8, ul. Zgoda 3, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 28 55 22, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl. Open 07:30-23:00; Sat 08:00-23:00; Sun 08:00-22:00. T6

Cafe Bristol If you can’t afford to stay in the sumptuous Hotel Bristol, that certainly doesn’t preclude you from enjoying their wonderful ground-floor cafe overlooking a park just minutes from the Old Town. This classic interiors of this historic meeting place (opened in 1901) are a great place to have breakfast (until 12:00), a light meal, or coffee and cake served in the tradition of the finest pre-war Viennese coffeehouses. Slow time down until it’s merely a triviality.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 551 18 28, www.cafebristol.pl. Open 09:00-18:00. T 64

Coffee & Sweets

Go well beyond the typical breakfast buffet at Nova Wola.

Nova Wola This elegant Crowne Plaza Hotel restaurant will help you start the day right with light and healthy breakfasts based on fresh, local, organic ingredients. Go for a custom omelette, shakshouka or avocado toast (with kale tapenade), or for more unusual options like baked sweet potatoes with yogurt, berries and granola or hummus with grilled veggies and egg. You can even order an entire pot of coffee to really caffeinate yourself for the day ahead.QC‑8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.cpwarsawthehub.com. Open 06:30-10:30; Sat, Sun 06:30-11:00. TU

Być Może... Start your day with the aroma of coffee and croissants in this sophisticated French bakery/bistro. Filling breakfasts include their fresh baked bread and are served all day. Choose from stacked bagel sandwiches, shakshuka, French toast, loaded oatmeal, or their take on the notorious Croque Madame. For us the poached egg (something we’ll never master at home) reigns supreme, and is featured in several hearty sets we’re happily working our way through. Find a second location at ul. Dobra 22/24.QH‑12, ul. Bagatela 14, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 519 00 00 14. Open 08:00-22:00. T6

Charlotte. Chleb i Wino Enjoy croissants with jam or traditional egg dishes anytime since trendy Charlotte slings all day breakfast. All ingredients are sourced locally, and vary depeneding on the season. Their chocolates and jams are made with home recipes, giving that extra dose of niceness. Also found at ul. Próżna 7, Nowy Świat 6/12 and ul. Kieślowskiego 7.QG‑10, Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (entrance from Pl. Zbawiciela), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 662 20 45 55, www.bistrocharlotte.pl. Open 07:00-24:00; Fri 07:00-01:00; Sat 08:00-01:00; Sun 08:0022:00. T6 65

Traditional Polish Dishes Polish food is famous for being simple, rich and very filling. Below we list the most well-known dishes you simply must try while in town, all of which you should be able to order from any Polish restaurant worth its salt. Smacznego! Barszcz A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with a croquette (‘barszcz z krokietem’), with miniature pierogi floating in it (‘barszcz z uszkami’), or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. A recommended alternative to other beverages, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Poland, so make sure you return home with barzszcz stains on at least one of your shirts.

Bigos Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

Gołąbki Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish is like a ‘cabbage enchilada'. Consisting of boiled cabbage leaves filled with rice, onion and typically beef, gołąbki are rolled up and baked or steamed, then served with tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims that King Kazimierz IV fed his army gołąbki before the Battle of Grunwald, and their unlikely victory attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

Golonka This is ‘pork knuckle’ or ‘ham hock,’ as in the part of a pig’s leg between the knee and ankle. Boiled, braised or roasted, this is the closest the Poles come to barbecue, and is a delicacy. The meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Generally sold by weight, you might end up with more than you bargained for, but it’s certainly an Instagram opportunity. Go caveman. 66

Traditional Polish Dishes | Local Flavours

Kotlet Schabowy Typically served with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, this is probably the most popular meal in Poland. Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a weekend by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the sound of the meat being tenderised with a spiky mallet, so best mind your manners.

Pierogi Poland’s most famous food, you can't leave PL until you’ve had them. These doughy, stuffed dumplings are typically steamed or pan-fried. Traditional fillings include potato, sweet cheese, minced meat, mushrooms and cabbage or seasonal fruits. If you nose around, you’ll find plenty of maverick fillings like chocolate, lentils or even chicken livers; the possibilities are limitless and served literally everywhere.

Placki Ziemniaczane These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to hashbrowns or Jewish latkes (if that means anything to you), and may be served in a variety of ways. Keep it simple with just sour cream (‘placki solo’), or turn it into a hefty meal by ordering them smothered in mushroom sauce or - our favourite - goulash (‘placki po węgiersku’). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

Żurek It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a sour soup made from a thick stock of fermented rye flour. Typically chock full of potatoes, sausage and hard-boiled eggs, żurek is most often thickened with cream, and seasoned with marjoram, garlic, salt and pepper. The result is a tasty grayish gruel that any Polish peasant would be proud to polish off. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get it served in a bread bowl. 67

Restaurants | New & Featured

Gather your posse for premium casual dining in Nova Wola (p.71).

Dining in Warsaw Warsaw’s come a long way fast, and nowhere is the city’s vibrancy and diversity more apparent than in its progressive culinary scene. What follows are some of the most noteworthy dining establishments in the capital, divided into basic categories. You’ll find the type of cuisine under each venue name, and as far as tipping goes, 10% is standard (easy math!). 68

New & Featured | Restaurants

Epoka Polish This fine food experience comes courtesy of Chef Marcin Przybysz, the 2014 winner of Top Chef Poland, whose interpretations of traditional Polish cuisine can be rivaled by few. The impeccably prepared tasting menus, comprising either 15 or 20 consecutive morsels and small dishes, will take you through the epochs of Polish history. The menus can be paired with wine or nonalcoholic drinks by professional sommeliers, and then there’s the feast for the eyes provided by the interior design - the deep jewel tones and swanky furnishings are the work of Slovak set designer and architect Boris Kudlička. Don’t worry about overstaying your welcome, either - Epoka remains open until the last guest (do note that the kitchen closes at 21:30). Recommended. QG‑5, ul. Ossolińskich 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 666 11 55 66, www.epoka.restaurant. Open 18:00-21:30; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€€ TU6

Bez Tytułu utensils International This high-end casual restaurant is all about sharing food and experiences. The vibe here is cosy and intimate, while the menu, composed by Chef Piotr Ceranowicz, is filled with small and large dishes designed to be shared by diners. These include intriguing pairings like tartare with black garlic, escargot with parsley, or halloumi with watermelon and mint, which go well with Bez Tytułu’s selection of classic and inventive cocktails (sake with gin and aloe, anyone?). The hospitality is also strong here, with the restaurant remaining open until the last guest is ready to leave (note, however, that the kitchen stops serving at 23:45). QF‑9, ul. Poznańska 16, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 516 03 31 24, www.beztytulu.com. Open 17:00-23:45; closed Mon, Sun. €€€. XT6

Restaurants | Fine Dining

Fine dining Epoka’s design is so impressive, we’d happily eat in the kitchen (p.69).

Belvedere

BI BA BO Restaurant & Cafe

utensils Polish Located inside the ‘New Orangery’ in the middle of Łazienki Park, Belvedere is one of Warsaw’s most prestigious and romantic restaurants. Essentially a mid-19th century greenhouse, this spectacular venue features floor to ceiling windows and is filled with tropical plants, including an over 100-year-old palm tree. Elegant, intimate table settings are placed amongst the indoor foliage, as well as outside, where peacocks wander the grounds. The food lives up to the first-rate atmosphere, with a concise menu of fresh seafood, meats and seasonal dishes. Consistently listed in the Michelin guide for over a decade, a glance at the prices reveals this is hardly a place to drop in after a day in the park; dare we say women are right to assume a booking here means something big is in order.QI‑12, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in Łazienki Park, entrance from ul. Parkowa), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 606 10 20 02, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-17:00. €€€€. TBE

NEW utensils Polish This oddly-named restaurant refers back to Warsaw’s interwar aura of glamour, grace and fame, when ul. Nowy Świat was the capital’s entertainment epicentre home to dozens of cabarets, theatres and cinemas. One of the most famous cabarets was ‘Bi Ba Bo’ - a place where you might hear Szpilman play piano or see Pola Negri dance with snakes. Looking to embody the ‘Roaring 20s’ of a new century, this incarnation of Bi Ba Bo pays homage to the past while meeting the modern demands of an eclectic and cultured clientele. Indulge in coffee or spirits in a nostalgic interior decorated with period sheet music and theatre posters, or try delicious Polish cuisine enriched with international flavours. Bi Ba Bo has designed a winning dining experience not by just creating an environment of good taste, but by encapsulating an entire era.QG‑6/7, ul. Nowy Świat 66, MNowy Świat - Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 513 51 97 77, www.bibabo.com.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; kitchen open 12:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-18:00. Closed Mon. €€€. TU6

Symbol & Price Key

6 Animal friendly

C‑1 Map Coordinate

T Child-friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside Seating

X Smoking room available

€ €€ €€€ €€€€ €€€€€

most mains under 25zł most mains 25-45zł most mains 45-75zł most mains 75-115zł most mains over 115zł

Fine Dining | Restaurants Elixir by Dom Wódki utensils Polish When we first heard of Elixir we instinctively thought, surely someone has already thought of this? Unbelievably, nobody had - so, top marks to the masterminds behind this classy establishment. At their Vodka Atelier you can try over 600 vodkas from around Poland and the globe; the range goes from PRL era classics to Polish ‘small batch’ distillers, designer vodkas, flavoured vodkas and culminates in the staggeringly priced ‘Młody Ziemniak 2017 volare’ (25ml for 50zł). The restaurant itself features stunningly presented, contemporary takes on Polish classics with a ‘food pairing’ system which recommends specific vodkas to complement the ingredients and flavours of each dish. An Absolut (pardon the pun!) top-spot and a truly unique venue on Warsaw’s culinary map. QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 11, www.domwodki.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. T

Lobster House utensils Seafood The choice of seafood venues in Warsaw (and good quality seafood in Poland as a whole, for that matter) has steadily been increasing over the last decade or so, however, it still has a reputation as being exclusive and pricey (sometimes unwarranted)! With the opening of The Lobster House, you could say the zenith is upon us! Set inside a landmark building (the ‘house without corners’) along the Royal Route, the location alone suggests a top quality venue. And it is. Inside you will find a sleek space spanning 451m2 (which comes in handy when you have 7 aquariums housing your food!), and able to host 120 people (plus more outside during summer), along with an impressive 10-metre-long bar. The food is as fresh as it possibly can be, and just delightful. This is definitely The Lobster House. QG‑6, ul. Królewska 2, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 731 00 08 47, www. lobsterhouse.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€€. TU6

cocktails. The café offers classic Polish pastries, but also sandwiches, salads, and freshly brewed coffees and teas.QF‑10, ul. Wilcza 73, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 551 88 00, www.warsaw.nobuhotels.com/dining. Open 18:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-23:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. TUBE6

Nova Wola utensils Polish Encapsulating the spirit of the restlessly developing, trendsetting Wola district, this restaurant in the Crowne Plaza Hotel absolutely nails the ‘premium casual’ dining concept. In an industrial chic interior of polished concrete, gold furnishings, lots of glass and big city views, Nova Wola delivers a decidedly modern take on Polish cuisine, composed of high-quality, locally-sourced ingredients. Choose from rich soups to premium Polish seasoned beef steaks, plus a special seasonal menu, with many of the entrees available in larger portions ideal for sharing. This upscale, sociable atmosphere makes NW ideal for business, dating or get-togethers; make an evening reservation for over 5 people and get a complementary bottle of Ostoya vodka; na zdrowie!QC‑8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.novawola.com. Open 17:00-22:30. €€€. TU

Nobu Restaurant utensils Japanese Found inside the stylish Nobu Hotel Warsaw, the Nobu Restaurant is a major part of the overall Nobu experience, a place where a mix of tastes and emotions become one. The 125-seat restaurant is a perfect place for breakfast, family meals and business refreshments, and no wonder, with the world-famous Japanese cuisine of chef Nobu Matsuhisa on the menu (chef Yannick Lohou is at the helm in Warsaw) offering signature dishes such as Yellow Tail with Jalapeno and Black Cod with Miso, Toto tartar with caviar, Beef Toban Yaki along with exclusive sakes and creative

If you think this view Nova Wola’s food is impressive, wait until you look out their windows.

Restaurants | Fine Dining PAM PAM Restaurant utensils International Hands down one of the best places we’ve been to in recent memory. Found on the stylish ul. Emilii Plater (modern, vibrant, with a touch of pre-war class), PAM PAM had us intrigued as we walked in - a mix of classic elegance with post-industrial bare brick, and a more private, even cosy back room. The entire place has a certain sophistication to it, which is matched by the premium menu. Relax, and let the very professional wait staff do their business - ever so helpful. Special mention must also go to head chef Paweł Rumowski, whose artistic flare is visible in all of the creative and light, but filling, dishes that will glide their way to your table. Stylish food, in both taste and presentation, a classy setting for business people having lunch meetings, or couples enjoying an intimate night out, the entire package here is just wonderful.QF‑9, ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 629 29 29, www.pampam.com.pl. Open 17:00-22:00; Sat 15:0022:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€.

Rozbrat 20 utensils International For all intents and purposes, faultless. A fine dining experience of the old school, though the food has a contemporary twist and packs a seriously sophisticated punch. The menu is seasonal and changes regularly. As for the wine list, it needs no introduction: it is one of the best in all of Poland, and the knowledgeable staff will help you choose the best complement to your meal. An indulgence worth going for. QI‑9, ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. (+48) 690 12 52 70, www.rozbrat20.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sat 14:00-22:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. B

SWING Asian Fusion Restaurant & Cocktail Bar utensils Asian High-end fusion cooking and fancy cocktails are the name of the game at this elegant, modern establishment. The menu draws inspiration from the whole of Asia, offering appetising dishes that include salmon tartare with mango and avocado, Saint James’ baked mussels, octopus with turnips, and beef tenderloin with oyster sauce. Make sure to ‘swing’ by on Fri & Sat after 19:00 to see this venue live up to its name, as retro jazz concerts juice the crowd. In addition to being a fun night out on weekends, Swing is a perfect place for organising business meetings, formal dinners and all sorts of celebrations.QG‑7, ul. Chmielna 2 (ul. Nowy Świat 31), MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 667 98 88 88, www.swingrestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. E6

Thai Thai utensils Thai Run by Warsaw’s Godfather of Thai cuisine, Surachart Urajaroen, this restaurant is 100% the real deal. No messing around with fusion concepts or little Polish additions. The Thai kitchen team stick firmly to tradition, and the spectacular results have earned a Thai Select certificate. Inside the National Theatre, the exterior of hefty, grey stonework gives no inkling of the opulence that awaits. Black walls with Thai designs and gold archways create a calming environment. The well laid out dining area also offers several more private spaces, great for business meetings or intimate dinner dates. Business lunch is served Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 for 35zł.QF‑5, Pl. Teatralny 3, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 601 81 82 83, www.thaithai.pl/ thai-thai-warszawa. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€. XT

Stary Dom utensils Polish Not by any stretch of the imagination centrally located, but well worth the trip south for a rollicking, rustic, big-portioned, slap-happy Polish experience. Usually crowded with happy diners you will see why quickly: they get a lot right where others too often fail. Service, for example, is good, prices fair (it’s not central Warsaw, so they sensibly do not charge central Warsaw prices) and the food is well above average, occasionally inspired. On a point of trivia it is part-owned by the man who played Pope John Paul II in the incredibly successful Polish cinematic version of his life. QH‑16, ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. (+48) 22 646 42 08, www.restauracjastarydom.pl. Open 12:00-23:30. €€€. T 72

SWING Asian Fusion Restaurant

Fine Dining | Restaurants

U Fukiera

Wabu Sushi & Japanese Tapas

utensils Polish Warsaw’s oldest and most famous restaurant, U Fukiera represents a Polish culinary tradition going all the way back to the 16th century! Under the star stewardship of celebrity restaurateur Magda Gessler (of Polish MasterChef fame), this enchanting establishment’s interior is a work of art, bedecked with grand oil paintings and ornate antiques, all blending with the tastes and scents of your stately and sophisticated food to create a fantastic ambience. Dining here gives you the impression that you have become part of a grand historical tradition, and the guestbook - harbouring such haughty names as Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson (to name but a few) - would suggest that, indeed, you have. Right on the Rynek in the heart of Warsaw’s Old Town, enjoy the delicious, perfectly-presented food and soak up the regal atmosphere. If you’re curious, check out their website for a 360-degree multimedia tour of the venue before you go - quite fun!QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 600 99 99 33, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. TB6

utensils Japanese Sometimes stiff formality and pretence go hand in hand with fine dining, and though the food may be great, the overall experience can be a bit awkward or even, ugh...tiring. As such, it’s nice to experience exclusive dining in the Japanese Izakaya style (informal eating). Wabu is very much a place for all types of people, from businessmen to couples to tourists and even families, so relax and enjoy. The interior is a minimal and elegantly unfussy gem, going for that old Japanese look, and blending in nicely with its modern surroundings on Plac Europejski. The menu is varied, inclusive of what you’d expect in sushi restaurants, however, Wabu also provides a special menu for kids, and a mighty lunch offer Mon-Fri (12:00-15:00, soup and 12 pieces of sushi for 39zł). The alcohol selection is extensive and bound to please everybody. Simple and elegant, Wabu has our hearty endorsement.QC‑7, Plac Europejski 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 668 92 59 59, www.wabu.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Kitchen open until 22:30. €€€€. TU B 6 73

Restaurants | Casual Dining

Casual dining The Alchemist (p.76) - only a cephalopod would eat elsewhere.

Sometimes you just need a casual and convenient place to relax, enjoy good food, vibes and hospitality. The following venues deliver in that regard. While our listed opening hours seem self-explanatory, be aware that some venues close their doors if business is slow, while others stay open after the kitchen has closed. In such cases, the hours we list are for the kitchen.

Beef n’ Pepper

Browar Warszawski

utensils Steak Hidden away in a small alleyway alongside the famous Roma Theatre, the exterior may look like you’re about to enter a 1970’s Texas shopping mall, but inside it’s a smart, urban steakhouse and bar. The quality of the cuts here is excellent (28 days wet-aged or 30 days dry-aged) and the fact that they use the finest local meats means the prices are surprisingly reasonable. Seafood and Louisiana Chicken Wings struggle for a look-in as beef rules. In addition to a fine wine list, the slick bar has a brilliant selection of whiskies and bourbons, and there’s live music every Tuesday from 19:00.QF‑9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 785 02 50 25, www.beefandpepper.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€€. TUE6

utensils International The revamped Warsaw Brewery is one of the largest, most modern brewpubs in the region, producing 19 craft beers on site, from contemporary IPAs to legacy ales from the days of the Haberbusch & Schiele Brewery. Choosing is hard, so try a tasting set. The menu is tailored to complement your liquid meal, and includes a truffle burger, fresh seafood and platters from the Josper grill. If you’re not a beer and/or meat lover, fret not, Warsaw Brewery has veggie options, plus signature cocktails and single malt whiskys. The post-industrial interior has plenty of intimate spaces, and also gives you a peak at the brewing process. All around a top venue for drinks, dining and making the rounds.QC‑7, ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 799 00 00 21, www.browarwarszawski.com. Open 12:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-24:00. €€€. BE

Casual Dining | Restaurants Ciao Napoli utensils Italian Located a short distance away from the Old Town Square, Ciao Napoli’s aim is to bring a little piece of Naples to the centre of Warsaw. Having originally opened on Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8 (F-4) to great success, boasting some of the city’s best pizza, imagine our delight when they opened this 2nd location with more seating, a bigger kitchen, and an expanded menu, with all the friendly atmosphere and cosiness of the first restaurant. Offering a selection of antipasti, salads, seafood and desserts, it’s the choice of Neapolitan pizzas with their fantastic thin and crispy dough which really stick out. Lunch specials of soup, an entree and water are available Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 for 27zł. As if things couldn’t get any better, they have fresh mussels every Thursday, happy hours on weekdays with your second cocktail half price (16:00-19:00), and on weekends your 2nd bottle of Prosecco is half price! You leave satisfied, especially when you realise just how affordable the whole experience was, despite being in a tourist hotspot.QF‑3, ul. Długa 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 666 32 27 33, www.ciaonapoli.pl. Open 12:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€. TB6

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi utensils Polish You can’t visit the capital of Poland without trying some traditional Polish food, right? Gościniec has just that, - hearty soups, plump dumplings, potato pancakes and various cutlets - all prepared ‘as they should be’ and at very reasonable prices. You can’t go wrong with pierogi, but we’d personally recommend the pork chops or cabbage rolls stuffed with meat (known locally as gołąbki: gowomp-ki)! The drinks on offer are quite funky (cold/hot options), and it’s all served up by friendly staff wearing folk attire. It may feel very kitsch inside, but the food hits the mark and the portions are immense. Additional locations at ul. Nowy Świat 41, and deep in the Old Town at ul. Podwale 19 and ul. Piwna 14.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 29, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 273 69 36, www.gosciniec.waw.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri 11:00-23:00. €. TB 6

Read and review over 275 Warsaw restaurants online

iyp.me/warsaw/restaurants 75

Restaurants | Casual Dining Namaste India

Tehran Restaurant

utensils Indian Over fifteen years ago, what began as a modest Indian-owned grocery store quickly developed by demand into multiple full-service restaurants. This - the expanded original location - remains the consensus best Indian food in the capital, just ask anyone who lives here. The prices are set so low you can’t help but wonder what’s the catch - there isn’t one; we’ve tried the entire menu and it’s all delicious. Consider ringing ahead for takeaway because waiting times can be torture and ask about booking their private room for parties and meetings.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:0023:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. B

utensils Middle Eastern Experience new tastes and celebrate Warsaw’s multiculturalism in Tehran - the capital’s only authentic Persian restaurant. This popular diner has won the adoration of locals with their beautiful and large portions of exotic Iranian specialties. The menu features lots of grilled mutton and lamb, halal kebab and eggplant paste, flavoured with mint, rose, pomegranate and saffron (don’t miss the Persian ice cream!). Vegan, halal and kosher restrictions can be easily accommodated, there’s a seasonal terrace and to top it all off, they are just the nicest damn people, you simply can’t suppress the good vibes. For the full effect, do your digesting with a traditional shisha pipe and a cocktail.QG‑7, ul. Gałczyńskiego 9, MNowy Świat - Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 537 10 02 51, www.tehran-kuchniaperska.pl. Open 12:30-21:00. €€€. BSV6

Steakownia utensils Steak Ever wonder where your burger comes from? This farm-to-table steakhouse isn’t afraid to tell you. With it’s own farm of 700 free-range cattle in northeastern PL, Steakwonia serves only seasoned and matured meat from their own 23-month-old castrated bulls. Drop in for an undenieably delicious burger, or one of their uniquely juicy, tender steaks, with the sauce and sides of your choice. The steakmasters will help you select a choice cut, and even advise you how to prepare their premium meats to perfection at home (the restaurant doubles as a shop). If you just want an excellent steak, without all the fancy finery that often comes with quality dining in the capital, head to this no-frills meatery.QG‑9, ul. Krucza 23/31, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 517 62 27 19, www.steakownia.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Mon, Tue 12:00-21:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. B6

The Alchemist Grill & Cocktail utensils International We’ve always loved The Alchemist for their craft beer and cocktail chemistry, but these days the real reason to visit is their award-winning food (Gault & Millau 2020) from head chef Rafał Kowalczyk. While you can enjoy gourmet interpretations of Polish standards and bar classics like burgers and fish & chips, their specialty is juicy steaks grilled and served on hot lava plates. The presentation is as sleek and pleasing as the interior design, which is hard not to admire. Perfect for a business lunch, after-work drink, social gathering, romantic date...well, I guess we can’t think of any occasion when we wouldn’t want to come here. Top venue, also at Pl. Piłsudskiego 3 (F-5).QE‑7, ul. Grzybowska 5A, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 375 92 22, www.thealchemist.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€. B6

The Legendary Jack’s Cinema Restaurant & Bar

Even vampires like the stakes at Beef n’ Pepper (p.74).

utensils American Inside a pre-war tenement building, Jack’s is a bar, restaurant and event-only cinema with a classy postindustrial interior punctuated by literally hundreds of JD bottles blotting out the ceiling. The steaks, burgers, ribs and wings are outstanding, and aside from Tennessee whiskey there are dozens of other mixed drinks; they even have their own beer. Keep an eye on their FB page for karaoke, concerts and other events in the mini cinema, kick back in their deep sofas and enjoy the show. Cheers, Jack!QG‑8, ul. Bracka 18, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 400 28 23, www.jackscinema.pl. Open 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:0024:00. €€. TUE6

Casual Dining | Restaurants

U Barssa utensils Polish The Old Town is packed with places to eat, but this is one of the few truly great. As you walk from the market square into the elegant dining room, you will discover a world of luxury, craft and privilege. The signature duck baked with beetroot, fried apples and cranberry sauce, and the Angus steak with green pepper are just two of the winning dishes on the menu, and we have to mention the outstanding wine list. They also have a huge summer garden and offer live music on Saturdays, so call ahead to reserve your space in this charming place.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 12/14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 24 76, www.ubarssa.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-23:00. €€€. TB

Vege Miasto utensils Vegetarian A paradise for Warsaw’s vegan, healthy-eating, glutenfree fanatics. The interior is a pretty simple affair with fittings made from old wooden crates and palettes. The smallish space is permanently packed with a variety of customers; tattooed anarchists sit alongside business types, local ladies and tourists in search of something vegetarian other than fried potatoes. You’ll find it here - a variety of soups, pierogi, pasta

salads, and middle eastern inspired entrees, plus daily specials, cakes and a great range of drinks; the fruit juices and herbal infusions are great thirst quenchers. QE‑5, Al. Solidarności 60A, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 251 05 25, www.vegemiasto.pl. Open 12:00-21:00; Mon 12:00-18:00. €€. T6

Wilcza Okocim Grill & Bar Beer Pub utensils American A brilliant venue for anyone who believes a pub should be a casual, social place, where friends can drink good beer, watch the game and have a solid feed. This place looks the part with an interior of exposed brick, green booths and dark wood finishing, set over two levels, with a seasonal patio. First and foremost a sports pub, there’s not a seat inside or out without a view of the match of the moment. The menu - a mix of barbecue and burgers, steaks, goulash and golanka (traditional pork knuckle, try it!) is outstanding, and the national Okocim lager should serve you well, but they also have Guinness, Brooklyn EIPA and Grimbergen Blonde on draught, plus a full bar. All told it’s more than anyone deserves to expect from a modern sports pub.QF/ G‑9, Ul. Wilcza 35/41, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 621 35 06, www.okocimbeer.pub. Open 14:00-01:00; Mon 14:00-24:00; Fri 14:00-02:00; Sat 15:00-02:00; Sun 15:0023:00. €€. B6 77

Restaurants | Food Markets

Food Markets Browary Warszawskie - Food Hall Browary

The popularity of street food and fancy fast food concepts has led to an explosion of food markets and indoor dining halls in Warsaw, offering dozens of diverse eating options. Not only a place to slay your hunger, these modern food markets are also trendsetting urban social spaces, featuring bars and hosting events. Check out these cool indoor food markets and see p.12 for their seasonal outdoor counterparts.

Food Hall Browary

Elektrownia Powiśle

Occupying a large, brick-walled space in the historic Brewery Cellars (Leżakownia), this impressive new food hall is arguably the social centre of the Browary Warszawskie district (p.20). With 12 different contemporary food concepts to choose from ranging from Silk & Spicy’s authentic Thai cuisine to Dziurka od Klucza’s new panozzo sandwich venture, ‘a’Panu occo?!’ - there are plenty of enticing options, including a wide selection of breakfasts and special lunch offers. The focal point is the impressively large Central Bar, well-stocked with craft beer, fine wine, and cool cocktails courtesy of veteran bartender and bar manager Karim Bibars. Grab a seat at a communal table and get socializing.QC‑7, ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.foodhallbrowary.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00.

From the outside, it’s obvious that this former power station has been given a new boost of energy following a major overhaul. Essentially an upscale urban shopping mall, EP also contains a whole host of gastro eateries, bars and event spaces. The central food court offers 17 street food stalls and restaurants, plus there are several more restaurants in the office buildings opposite. You’re spoilt for choice, so let your mood and budget decide (not easy!). Once you’re done dining, check out their bars - Kandela, Centrala and Elektryk - and also keep a regular eye on their events calendar so you don’t miss hip foodie happenings like their ‘Eko Targ’ (Eco Market), selling GMO-free locally-grown produce.QH‑6, ul. Zajęcza 2B, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-02:00; Sat 11:00-02:00; Sun 11:00-22:00.

Food Markets | Restaurants Hala Gwardii

Hala Koszyki

The grimier twin number of Hala Mirowska - its adjacent neighbour to the west (p.96) - these two enormous brick buildings were built as market halls at the turn of the century. Miraculous survivors of WWII, while Mirowska quickly returned to its function as a vast indoor market where you can buy almost anything, Hala Gwardii served as a bus depot, eventually becoming a sports hall and home to the ‘Gwardia’ Policemen’s Sports Club - hence the name. Today it still features a boxing ring, small boxing museum and portraits of Polish boxing legends on the walls, but since 2017 has returned to a modern version of its roots - as an eclectic indoor food hall and hipster marketplace focused on local and organic products. The neglected exterior gives it an alternative edge, while inside you have dozens of the city’s top gastro concepts to choose from, plus coffee, alcohol and other drinks, as well as a market of local food products. Worth checking out each weekend for frequent food festivals and other very cool events.QE‑6, Plac Żelaznej Bramy 1, MRondo ONZ, www.halagwardii.pl. Open Fri, Sat 09:00-01:00; Sun 10:00-21:30 only. 6

From the outset Hala Koszyki has managed to raise the love and hate hackles of the city’s ‘out on the town’ set. How many world cuisine eateries of various sizes can you squeeze into one space? Actually, due to its popularity, fate may decide what you’ll eat as tables are packed most times of the day or night. Amazingly popular amongst the young and the beautiful, Hala K will probably remain THE place to be seen for some time to come - mainly because it’s easy to be seen due to its open plan layout. Top class little independent bistros sit next to some of Warsaw’s chain restaurants, like Tuk Tuk, Port Royal and the biggest restaurateurs including Mateusz Gessler’s gastronomic outposts - Ćma and Warszawski Sen. The main hall has some brilliant food on offer, with stalls offering flavours from all over the world. There are of course some shops here too, however, in reality, they’ll always play second fiddle to the top class dining area. Even if you can’t find a table at any of the cool eateries and bars, we urge you to spend some time taking in this stunning market hall. Don’t forget to look up, down, sideways etc. as beautiful hidden details abound!QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00-01:00.

Elektrownia Powiśle Food Hall.

Nightlife | New & Featured

Sophisticated company in Woda Ognista (p.85)

Nightlife in Warsaw There was a time not long ago when a bar in Warsaw was just a dull place to go and get drunk - that’s it. Though the concept of a bar as a social venue is still relatively new, the choice of modern venues - whether cool dive joints or sleek exclusive cocktail bars - is now immense. Go enjoy yourself and na zdrowie (cheers)! 80

New & Featured | Nightlife

SWING Cocktail Bar Cocktail Bar Right on the Royal Route, Swing is one of the capital’s most sophisticated and upscale destinations for dining, drinks and, yep, swinging cocktail parties. The elegance exuded by day is nicely offset by the creativity of the Asian-fusion cuisine and the relaxed atmosphere created by the staff and clientele, particularly in the evenings, which belies all the finery. The cocktails are excellent, and they have an ample offering of wine and champagne to enhance the mood when local musicians bring the energy during retro swing concerts on Friday and Saturday nights after 19:00. It don’t mean a thing, if it ain’t got that Swing. QG‑7, ul. Chmielna 2, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 667 98 88 88, www.swingrestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. E6

El Koktel Cocktail Bar Moody and elegant, this sophisticated cocktail bar serves signature drinks with performative flair. The imaginative menu of classic and modern mixed drinks changes seasonally; during our recent visit the sci-fi/space exploration theme featured delicious drinks with names like ‘Space Oddity,’ ‘Johnny Silverhand’ and ‘Houston, We Had a Problem,’ and the range of unique ingredients included nutella liqueur, agave nectar, bison grass absinthe and pomegranate tincture. These alcohol alchemists even make their own flavoured gin (cleverly named ‘Gin Dobry’), which you simply must sample by ordering a classic G&T. Also on the menu: wine, craft beer, and antipasti boards. Ring the doorbell to be admitted. QG‑7, ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 507 45 64 47, www.facebook.com/elkoktel. Open 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-01:00; closed Mon, Sun.6

Nightlife | Bars

Bars

Magic potions or witch’s brew? Find out at The Alchemist (p.84).

In Warsaw you’re never far from a great night out. As it’s a large city, there are several key nightlife areas: Warsaw’s artsy, alternative crowd prefer the downat-heel bars across the river in Praga (p.46) and the fashionable Saska Kępa (L‑7), while young trendsetters head to Powiśle (p.36). Lads stick to the party strip on ul. Mazowiecka (F-6/7), and skint students enjoy the vibe of The Pavilions dive bars (G-7, courtyard of ul. Nowy Świat 26). In practice, many bars will stay open well their hours if business is good, but by the same benchmark will happily bolt the doors early if not.

Symbol Key

6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside Seating

X Smoking room available

AURA Bar Cocktail Bar Chances are you wouldn’t find this place on your own, which is why you should seek it out! Though hardly bigger than a bedroom, the locals are eager to squeeze into this corner bar located in a lovely pre-war residential building. With high ceilings and a beautiful design of oriental patterns, warm lighting and brass fixtures, Aura has a real glow to it and a friendly neighbourhood vibe. What sets it apart however, is the huge selection of bourbons. This is the kind of place where the drinks come in tumblers and the seasonal cocktails are as delicious as the atmosphere. If an Old-Fashioned is your goto bar order, this is your go-to bar, where they serve 11 unique varieties of the classic drink. Refreshingly relaxed, but clearly refined, great things come in small packages.QG‑9, ul. Hoża 27, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 791 88 81 98. Open 17:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 18:0002:00. B6

Bars | Nightlife Back Room Bar Cocktail Bar Strolling down ul. Koszykowa from Plac Konstytucji, at no. 53 on your left head down to the end of the lane which looks more like a residential car park. Keep hugging the right-hand side, walking past a few restaurants, and voilà, you’ll reach the Back Room Bar an appropriate name for how well hidden it is! It would be a shame to miss this place, as the Art Deco interior creates some great inter-war vibes and the cocktails mixed by the dressed-for-the-part staff are top-notch. To top off the atmosphere, there’s live music every Thu & Fri from 20:30. The setting perfect for a private drink, or try mingling with the locals. You came all this, after all.QG‑10, ul. Koszykowa 49A, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 794 49 56 59, www.backroom.bar. Open 19:0024:00; Fri, Sat 19:00-02:00; closed Mon, Sun. E

Charlie Cocktail Bar Billing itself as a venue where elegance meets comfort, this lounge bar feels like the type of place your classy ole pal Charlie himself would invite you into. If you don’t know anyone called Charlie, then let this venue be the substitute to fill that void! Found on the likewise elegant ul. Mokotowska, one of our favourite areas of Warsaw, just off the beaten track, come here to check out a wide selection of cocktails, all in the pleasantly dark and moody atmosphere. Their calendar of events, hosting live acts, jazz music, a Saturday DJ and various parties are legendary.QG‑10, ul. Mokotowska 39, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 739 09 75 14, www.charliebar.pl. Open 19:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 19:0003:00; closed Mon, Sun. XE

Clash Bar at NYX Hotel Warsaw Cocktail Bar Making a hotel more than just a place for its sleepover guests, NYX has created an inviting firstfloor space where urban art and culture collide, and anyone can drop in. With an open floor plan that features traditional dining areas flowing into more casual zones with sofas and armchairs, The Clash’s unique visual aesthetic includes retro and modern furnishings, elegant place settings and gold cutlery, plus edgy photography and street art installations. Dine on a unique fusion of Polish-Israeli cuisine, order a signature cocktail, or challenge their bar staff to make you a custom drink. Take advantage of Happy Hour specials from 17:00-19:00, and don’t be surprised to hear live jazz or a DJ dialling up the vibes (check FB to see what’s on).QE‑8, ul. Chmielna 71, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 346 29 00, www.leonardo-hotels.com/nyx-hotel-warsaw. Open 14:30-23:00. TUE6 83

Nightlife | Bars Drugie Dno - Multitap Bar

Myata Lounge

Craft Beer This is one of our favourite streets in terms of bars. It has quite a few bars dealing in craft and multitap beers, which to us is perfect - long may they keep standards up! Found at the far end of Nowogrodzka (heading east), Drugie Dno has a splendid 15 taps on offer, easily chosen from the board behind the bar. Take your drink and stare at the walls (alone or with someone) and ponder whether the stripped back brick walls were an intentional design choice or merely a compromise due to restricted funds. Regardless, it’s cool, having that post-industrial feel. The food is tops, from burgers, to the neat ‘party boards’ for sharing as you chat. Great place for relaxing and chatting. 2nd location on ul. Tarczyńska 5/9.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 4, MCentrum, www.drugiedno.pl. Open 16:00-23:00; Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 16:0002:00; closed Sun. 6

Cocktail Bar The first Myata Lounge in PL, this franchise might be known to those who have wandered over the border east, and as such, the clientele skews sexy eastern Slav. Known for good food, great drinks, shisha smoke and general debauchery in a sleek, modern interior full of plush love seats, Myata covers a lot of bases, but what makes it special is the regulars, who would rather go hard than go home. It’s a few-fucks-given kind of vibe that only the young and beautiful can pull off, and they do it here. The menu ranges from wasabi shrimp to burgers, quesadillas and seafood risotto, and they offer almost 30 flavours of shisha. There’s Guinness on draught, but you’ll find most of the fairer sex sipping cocktails. If you were hoping Warsaw would be a bit more Wild, Wild East, check this place out. QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 6, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 534 72 73 25, www.myatawarszawa.tilda.ws. Open 16:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-04:00; Sun 16:00-02:00. X

Jabeerwocky

Cocktail Bar Patenting the ‘future of drinking’ themselves, The Alchemist’s ‘Beer Wall’ was the first of its kind in Europe. With a handy ‘Beer Wall’ card, you can pour yourself as many drinks as you like from the 8 taps on the wall, typically offering local craft beer, cider and prosecco. Futuristic guzzling gizmos aside, however, the signature cocktails that shimmer, swirl and smoke are where the Alchemist earns its name, and their award-winning food (Gault & Millau 2020) makes this venue a must-visit. On the menu are delicious burgers, steaks and innovative interpretations of American and British classics. If all this wasn’t enough, in the summer it’s the spacious terrace that draws the locals to lounge around for hours enjoying The Alchemist’s experimentation. Second location (without the Beer Wall) at ul. Grzybowska 5A (E-7).QF‑5, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 628 00 23, www.thealchemist.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:0000:00. TU6

Craft Beer ‘Beware the Jabeerwock, my’ - wait, this one’s not a fictional monster, but a bare-brick multi-tap dive bar inside a fine residential building right in the city centre. Offering 17 taps of terrific craft beer, there’s also a sneaky good whisky/bourbon selection and some basic snacks. A great place to kick back with friends for some good chat, or if you prefer the company of sports, they have a large projector screen and TV for you to yell oaths at. A separate room is available to book out for closed parties, which can hold up to 50 people.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 12, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 254 31 07, www.jabeerwocky.pl. Open 14:0024:00; Wed, Thu 14:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-02:00; Sun 15:00-24:00. 6

Kita Koguta Cocktail Bar Even with the myriad of trendy drink bars around town it’s still a bit of a rarity to stumble upon a place where the staff seem permanently smiley, jolly and on the point of being certified - this is such a place. Two levels of surprisingly unpretentious cocktail showmanship and DJ danceparty mayhem, fuelled by the weird and wonderful auteur alcoholic concoctions on their regularly changing menu. If you’re feeling fussy or just want to chat up the willing staff, challenge them to come up with a custom drink based on your tastes and preferences. Great atmosphere, great drinks. To keep up to date with events they may host, check out their Facebook page.QG‑9, ul. Krucza 6/14, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 512 30 72 84, www.kitakoguta.pl. Open 18:0024:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-02:00; closed Mon, Tue. 84

The Alchemist Grill & Cocktail

The Legendary Jack’s Cinema Restaurant & Bar Cocktail Bar Bottles at the bar, bottles on the ceilings, and why not, considering your signature alcoholic drink is one of the world’s most recognisable brands? Not just a bar, this spot does some great American style grub, from burgers, steaks and BBQ ribs to fried chicken. What’s more, the quirk of this place is the cinema screen round back, great for films, live screenings of sports events or as a space for live music and other events. Come here for a drink, food, and definitely check out their events calendar on Facebook.QG‑8, ul. Bracka 18, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 400 28 23, www.jackscinema.pl. Open 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. TUE6

Bars | Nightlife

Weles Bar

Woda Ognista

Cocktail Bar Walk casually past and you risk missing this hidden cocktail bar, whose very discreet entrance can be found in the back corner of an unassuming alleyway. Why, it’s almost as if they were trying to hide something...but don’t worry, there aren’t any prohibition-fab pseudo-speakeasy shenanigans at play here. Instead, walking through the big metal door takes you on a trip down into the underworld. Not literally, thankfully, but physically and figuratively, as you descend into the mysterious and hedonistic domain of Weles - Slavic god of the underworld, and pagan patron of magic, music and prosperity. The vibe is quite alternative for a bar where most of the patrons are drinking cocktails, and a scan of the room reveals a lot of black outfits, inked skin and moody makeup. A trip to the bar, where the staff mix the drinks with a mesmerising alchemic fluidity, is almost akin to initiation into some sacred ritual; we drank deep of Weles’ well and were converted. To say more would give away too much - visit on your own.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 602 77 39 97, www.welesbar.pl. Open 19:00-01:30; closed Mon. E

Cocktail Bar Before we detail the place, we’ll mention the area - ul. Wilcza, one of many nice streets that can be described as ‘off the beaten track’, hiding some wonderful prewar architecture you might miss if you don’t stray from Warsaw’s main drag, ul. Marszałkowska. Emitting a nostalgic air of bygone days, Woda Ognista captures and bottles this atmosphere of ‘forgotten Warsaw’, with classy 1920s-30s decor and a primly dressed staff that exude panache. Prepare to be impressed by their seasonal offerings, fantastic Polish-style cocktails and dishes that take you on a journey through Warsaw’s cultural history. Put simply, this is a wonderful place to experience a modern spin on pre-war Varsovian style and we’re sure the likes of Eugeniusz Bodo and Mieczysław Fogg would have approved.QH‑9, ul. Wilcza 8, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 258 14 41, www.wodaognista.com. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-02:00. 6

Read and review 160+ Nightlife venues

iyp.me/warsaw/bars-pubs-clubs 85

Nightlife | Clubs

Clubs Practice the art of lucid dreaming in SEN

A clubbing paradise, the capital certainly has some special nightclubs and Varsovians know how to party. Dress your best, anticipate a cover charge at any place worth getting into, and be prepared to greet the dawn. If you don’t make it till sunrise with this crowd, you’re probably doing it wrong.

Dekada

Enklawa - The Legendary Nightlife

Adventures and amorous encounters come guaranteed in this slice of Warsaw folklore, a direct result of the people found inside. Here it’s all 007 Barbie bombshells soaking up the attention off expats twice their age - an interesting mix that combines for colourful nights. Watch the pantomime while sitting inside a 1950s tram, or else take your chances on a dance floor that packs out most nights with DJ sounds that tend to err towards disco and chart-toppers.QC‑10, ul. Grójecka 19/25, tel. (+48) 602 68 58 05, www.dekada.pl. Open Fri, Sat 22:00-05:00 only. XE

Keeping their fingers on the pulse of current club trends, live music and fashion events, Enklawa attracts a pretty, classy and sassy weekend crowd. It’s popularity means you should expect a queue at the door, but once inside you’ll find a spot-on interior with huge screens, 3 bars to prevent long drink lines, and a very spacious dancefloor packed with local vixens. The VIP room boasts great views of the action and the atmosphere is unlike any other in Warsaw.QF‑6, ul. Mazowiecka 12, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 31 51, www.enklawa.com. Open Fri, Sat 22:0005:00 only. XU

Clubs | Nightlife Hulakula Entertainment centre by both day and night, but once the kids are getting tucked in, Hulakula drops its family-friendly daytime disposition for party vibes. Although unusual, the idea to also use this huge entertainment centre as an after-hours hangout place with friends is absolutely brilliant and the fun is irrepressible as this place turns into a different kind of rumpus room. DJs often play weekends, and it’s worth checking their calendar for other concerts and events.QJ‑4, ul. Jagiellońska 82B, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 669 00 10 01, www.hulakula.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00. XU

Level 27 To anyone with vertigo, a word of warning: as the name suggests, this is not some dingy cellar club, but rather an ecstatic rooftop party that puts you in the centre of Warsaw’s skyline. Rated one of the best clubs in the world, Level 27 occupies the top floor of a modern skyscraper, and includes a 450m2 open-air terrace in the summer. A showcase for high society’s beautiful people, DJs typically spin R&B and hip hop, but anything can happen from fire shows to fashion runways (check their FB). Arrive early for an incredible sunset, or better yet, keep pace with these party people to see it come up again from the best vantage point in town. Are you on the level?QC‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. (+48) 733 66 10 94, www.level27.pl. Open Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00. E

truly stands out. Located in the heart of the legendary Mazowiecka Street, the interior is a striking mix of sleek contemporary club fixtures, furnishings and lighting with high ceilings, stunning archways, columns and other old architectural characteristics of the historical building it’s located in. Low sofas and pillows adorn the interior, and if your idea of heaven is two bars, a VIP room, a wide array of music and lots of high heels, check your pulse, you might be dead already.QF‑6, ul. Mazowiecka 13, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 60 44, www.room13.pl. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-05:00 only. X

SEN If you’ve come to SEN (PL for ‘dream’) to enjoy the restaurant (18:00-01:00), we give you a humble nod for making a solid choice, but if you’ve decided to stay and sup on the awesome cocktails, we salute you - you won’t be disappointed. Although not huge, the panoramic backdrop pairs up perfectly with the lounge vibe. There is a door selection, so dress to impress, and don’t be put off - the staff do their best to maintain the unique and positive character inside, which just adds to your enjoyment. The music’s great and the bar is well stocked, what’s not to enjoy? If you stay until the end, you may very well agree with the venue’s tag line: it was all a dream.QJ‑7, Ul. Wioślarska 6, MCentrum Nauki Kopernika, tel. (+48) 883 02 50 25, www.senwarsaw.pl. Open Fri & Sat 18:00-05:00 only. XE

NA LATO Day & Night Na Lato has been a Powiśle favourite for a while now, both during the day and night. The setting, both the location and the interior, work well, as they are pleasant on the eye and the soul. After a meal, sit back at the bar on a Fri or Sat, letting the night set in until bam! - the transformation from restaurant to dance floor passes by you in the blink of an eye, especially if you’re cocktailing early. Get well fed, dance your socks off, or sit at the bar continuing what you were doing before. If that’s not enough, check out Jackpot Warsaw 777 on the premises, a heady mix of palm trees and 19th century Tennessee bar feel - very romantic, indeed. Not a bad set of choices, huh?QI‑9/10, ul. Rozbrat 44A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 696 87 84 49, www.na-lato.com. Open 09:00-22:00; Fri 09:00-03:00; Sat 10:00-03:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. X

Room 13 Club & Lounge Warsaw has had the benefit of a club explosion (clubsplosion?) in the last decade or so, and after visiting venue upon venue, Room 13 is one that

The sun may go down, but things stay lit on the terrace of Level 27

Nightlife | Clubs

Teatro Cubano

Smolna This bunker club based on the Berlin techno model is situated in a grand old City Centre townhouse, just seconds away from the landmark ‘Palm Tree.’The music delves deep and diversely into the murky depths of electronica; the organisers are a pretty radical and experimental group, so you never know what kind of musical journey they’ll take you on. Three dancefloors - including the outdoor patio space (the neighbours love that one), three bars (cocktails included) and a chillout room make up this hugely popular venue. Keeping things enigmatic and secretive, they have a strict ‘no photos/no smartphone’ policy and pretty cryptic marketing campaigns so that you know they’re serious. Expect queues at the entrance, but the door policy seems to be in place simply to keep out aggressive yobos and anyone with a camera strapped around their neck.QH‑8, ul. Smolna 38, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, www.smolna38.com. Open Fri, Sat 23:0008:00 only.

Teatro Cubano Warsaw What’s that warm Caribbean breeze blowing through the centre of Warsaw? Must the blast of fresh air emanating from this sultry, rhythmic Cuban lounge and dance club. With giant palms flanking the entrance, as you enter you are enveloped by the joyful vibes and vibrant blues and yellows of this huge, spacious club with high ceilings and a massive bar at its centre, behind which is the large stage which regularly hosts international touring acts and DJs mixing Latino and pop music. Attracting a young, international crowd of students, locals and travellers, diversity is something PL could use more of, and this boisterous club embraces it. Stop by!QF‑5, ul. Fredry 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 538 19 44 94, www.teatrocubano.com. Open 22:00-03:00; Thu 22:0004:00; Fri, Sat 21:00-05:00. XE 88

Adult Entertainment | Nightlife

Adult Entertainment If you’re in Warsaw and simply have your mind set on going to a strip club, we advise you to stick to our recommendations, which are vetted and centrally-located. When it comes to these types of establishments, we’ve heard reports of 8,000zł being spent willingly in one club listed here, and another of 8,000 sterling being spent unwillingly in one we don’t list. As ever, we urge you to be mindful, mind your manners, deal only in cash, don’t let anyone order drinks for you, and generally keep your wits about you. A good rule of thumb is to avoid street solicitation of any kind, especially if it comes in the form of a sweet girl with an umbrella inviting you to a club for a ‘drink’; also don’t get roped into buying a drink unless you know its price and can afford it. If you’re going to the club of your choice by taxi, make sure the driver takes you to the correct club, and not one miles away with whom they have a partnership. Employ good common sense and we’re confident you’ll have a night to remember, not regret.

Playhouse Gentleman’s Club This smart gentlemen’s club, located in a chunky communist era building on al. Solidarności, has sustained their success with a classy approach to showing off the female form in luxurious surroundings. Their reputation in this market has even gone international, with influential website AskMen. com voting them the ‘Best Strip Club in the World’ back in 2013. Three floors covering over 800m2, four bars, three VIP rooms, an in-house ATM and 57 sizzling hot women make Playhouse THE place to visit for the discerning gent with a penchant for the erotic. Payment methods accepted: cash, card, Bitcoin and Paypal.QD‑5, Al. Solidarności 82A, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 794 00 70 00, www.playhouse.pl. Open 21:00-05:00. X

Sogo Club The largest of all the strip clubs in Warsaw at a size of 1200m2. Sogo is ridiculously easy to get to from any part of Warsaw. Simply head to the beginning of ul. Nowy Świat (G-8, at the Palm Tree) and you’ll see the brightly-lit building in the distance. The place consists of three levels: the main hall containing two bars and hundreds of seats, the VIP rooms, and even conference facilities. Should you want more privacy, the Gold Club option provides private rooms with a dedicated lounge bar and washroom facilities. The club has their customers’ desires in mind and will stay open longer if you feel you simply cannot leave by 05:00.QH‑7/8, Al. Jerozolimskie 6, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 92 09, www.sogoclub.pl. Open 20:0005:00. X 89

Shopping

HE Concept Store offers the heights of luxury design.

Shopping in Warsaw Paris, London or New York it ain’t, but shopping fiends can still find plenty to spend their well-earned złoty on. Warsaw is seeing true growth in the array of shops available and the number of big-name labels that are opening storefronts. Whether it’s western-style malls, designer boutiques, dusty family stores or antique markets, a day spent shopping can result in both bargains and treasures. Happy hunting. 90

Shopping

Amber & Jewellery Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line This gorgeous gallery specialises in luxury handcrafted jewellery of the amber variety, but crystal, silver and gold items can be purchased here too. This is the location of the largest and oldest amber dealer in the city, a family run business going back to 1988, proudly selling amber of Polish origin - certified by the International Amber Association. Even heads of State and royalty have been spotted procuring presents here, from Bill Clinton to Japanese princesses (whose thank you letters you can see inside)! Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top designers, plus high quality jewellery made with other precious stones. QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 69 61, www.warsawamber.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-17:00.

Lilou A phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components to create a unique and personalised piece. The range continues to grow, with the original luxury charm bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes, then have it hand-engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you. A ‘musthave’ item amongst local celebs and fashionistas. Also at ul. Francuska 27 (L-7), Westfield Arkadia (B/C-2), Galeria Mokotów and Sadyba Best Mall.QH‑9, ul. Mokotowska 63, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 506 19 08 97, www.lilouparis.com. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00*.

Fashion & Accessories HE Concept Store A high-class location for a high-class boutique. Forget shoddy souvenirs, this is where you’ll find some of the best items Polish and international design has to offer - all of which are completely unique to HE Concept Store. Enter the ‘Europejski Boutiques’ zone of Raffles Hotel Europejski from Krakowskie Przedmieście and descend the mysterious spiral stairs into what opens up into an exhibition space of chic and sleek design - artwork, high-quality handmade items, accessories, gadgets, and top of the line fashion. There’s even a wine bar where you can buy, and even sample signature wines on the spot. All told, it’s a welcome gift to anyone with a keen eye on the latest trends.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 255 99 65, www.heconceptstore.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Sun.

Victoria’s Secret This boutique certainly needs no introduction. Even if you know nothing of fashion, you’ve no doubt heard of Victoria’s Secret, the brand that has become synonymous with stylish lingerie and glitzy angelwinged fashion shows. Warsaw, it seems, is delighted to have Poland’s only VS stores, and although previously their only boutiques in the city were on the smaller scale of grand, focusing mainly on accessories & perfumes, the new store in the city centre’s Złote Tarasy shopping mall is much bigger than before (now including Victoria’s Secret PINK), but the opening of Poland’s first VS flagship store in Westfield Arkadia Shopping Mall, with the full selection of clothing, including their lingerie, perfumes and accessories has gone down well with fashion bloggers and Varsovians alike! In Arkadia, you can’t miss it - it’s located right at the front entrance!QC‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 22 323 72 33, www. victoriassecret.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00*.

Find our full Warsaw Shopping Directory online iyp.me/warsaw/shopping

Shopping

Gifts & Souvenirs E-Manufaktura It’s sometimes hard to find that perfect gift from Poland to take back home with you. We understand the problem, and it may be the case you get home, only to regret not having bought that sweet little tea cup you had your eye on. Now this is why we whole heartedly recommend E-Manufaktura, which is not only a shop in Warsaw, but also an online shop for you to look through an extensive catalogue in the comfort of your home. From egg cups, plates, bowls, and all other kitchenware you can think of, you’ll find it here! The famous hand-painted ceramics, Bolesławiec, make up the core of what’s on offer. It doesn’t get more Polish than this. A must use service.QF‑3, ul. Freta 14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 636 06 84, www.e-manufaktura.com. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Sun.

Gifts & Silver by Neptunea This shop near Plac Konstytucyji is absolutely packed with curiosities. Part jeweller, part gem shop, part natural history museum gift shop, here you’ll find beautiful silver and amber jewellery, natural stones and crystals, decorative sea shells, minerals from around the world, fossils, African masks, exotic butterflies and much more, including what you would think of as more typical or traditional souvenirs from Warsaw and Poland. An absolute treasure, and a great place to find a unique and beautiful gift or souvenir. Get 10% off by showing our Warsaw IYP guides and maps.QG‑9/10, ul. Piękna 24/26A, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 827 97 05, www.giftsandsilver.pl. Open 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed Sun.

*Sunday Shopping in PL In its effort to get people out of shopping malls and into churches, the Polish government has imposed regulations preventing most businesses from opening their doors on Sundays. Of course, there are exceptions, including 7 special Sundays when shops are open each year, and the rules don’t apply to restaurants, bars, cafes, pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets, souvenir shops and anywhere the business owner is personally working behind the counter. When you see an asterisk* after the Sunday hours in our guide, that means the venue is closed on Sundays, aside from 2022’s 7 shopping Sundays: Jan 30 | Apr 10, 24 | June 26 | Aug 28 | Dec 11, 18. 92

Shopping Malls Designer Outlet Warszawa Set inside an impressive collection of buildings evoking the Baroque style of Warsaw’s Old Town, this is a premium outlet mall, with the interior specifically made to make you feel like you’re walking through a fashion high street. Here you’ll find discounts ranging from 30-70% off on brands like Adidas, Armani, Boss, Calvin Klein, Desigual, Gant, Guess, Furla, KARL LAGERFELD, Levis, Liu Jo, Luisa Spagnoli, Michael Kors, Nike, Polo Ralph Lauren, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and many more. Found just 30mins from Warsaw’s city centre, and 20mins from Warsaw Chopin Airport, it’s easily reached by car and public transport (for the latter get off at ‘Energetyczna 01’ and use a zone 2 ticket).Qul. Puławska 42E, Piaseczno, MWilanowska, tel. (+48) 22 737 31 15, www.designeroutletwarszawa.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00*. TU

Dom Mody KLIF Klif has been attracting fashion lovers in Warsaw for over 20 years, and subsequently expanded their presence across Poland as well. If you think you’ve seen this all before, however, you’re mistaken. This is the capital, after all, and the quality of domestic and foreign brands is exceptionally high, not to mention the boutique showrooms inside. Now on show are top tags from MaxMara, Elisabetta Franchi, PennyBlack, Michael Kors, Karl Lagerfeld, Castellani and DM Moda, as well as respected mainstream brands like Olsen and S’portofino. The draw, other than the brands, is the convenient, easy to get to location - roll in by tram, bus or car. What’s more, this is the only shopping centre to have a concierge point, and they also boast FASHION STUDIO - a place where anyone can use the services of professional stylists.QB‑4, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. (+48) 535 41 14 58, www.klif.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Eurospar open Mon-Sat 08:30-22:00; Sun 09:00-20:00.

Shopping

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang. Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand. Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 18k platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls. Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry. WARSZAWA, 63 Mokotowska Street, 27 Francuska Street, ARKADIA 82 Jana Pawła II Avenue, GALERIA MOKOTÓW 12 Wołoska Street, SADYBA BEST MALL 31 Powsińska Street.

lilouparis.com /bemylilou

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Warsaw In Your Pocket Guide Spring 2022

Articles inside

Shopping

Clubs

Adult Entertainment

Bars

New & Featured

Food Markets

Casual Dining

Fine Dining

New & Featured

Traditional Polish Dishes

Breakfast & Brunch

Kids & Families

Activities & Experiences

Warsaw Uprising

Jewish Warsaw

Museums

Art Tourism

Current Exhibitions

Jewish Culinary Culture at POLIN

Wilanów

Powiśle

The Royal Route

Transport

Urban Greens & Gastro Parks

Introducing Warsaw

City Centre

How to Use This Guide

Old Town Map

Essential Warsaw

Old Town Walking Tour