Warsaw In Your Pocket February - March 2024 by Poland In Your Pocket

Maps

Sightseeing

Activities

Warsaw No. 132, February – March 2024

Dining

Nightlife

Shopping

SINCE 2001

City Guide

Featured this issue: Fire, Water and Effigies

p.10

Centrum Praskie Koneser

p.14

Hala Koszyki

p.16

A Brief History of Slavic Traditions The Ultimate Praga Destination

Warsaw’s Delicious Melting Pot

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Contents

Warsaw

idebook an immersive gu t travel... for independen

Hala Koszyki (p.16) offers tons of different tasty bites in an artsy space

Introducing Warsaw How to Use This Guide

Features

p.7 p.8

Fire, Water and Effigies Centrum Praskie Koneser Hala Koszyki Traditional Polish Dishes Drink Like a Local

p.10 p.14 p.16 p.18 p.20

Transport Sightseeing

p.22

Essential Warsaw City Centre Old Town Royal Route Powiśle Łazienki Park Wilanów Praga

Art, History & Culture Art Tourism Current Exhibitions Museums Jewish Warsaw Warsaw Uprising

p.25 p.26 p.36 p.44 p.50 p.54 p.58 p.60 p.65 p.66 p.68 p.72 p.74

Activities

Kids & Families

Dining

Featured Breakfast & Brunch Casual Dining Fine Dining Food Markets

Nightlife

p.76 p.78 p.81 p.82 p.84 p.90 p.94

Featured Bars & Clubs

p.97 p.98

Shopping Venue Index

p.104 p.110

Maps City Map City Centre Map Old Town Map Royal Route Map Powiśle Map Łazienki Map Wilanów Map Praga Map

p.2 p.27 p.37 p.45 p.51 p.54 p.59 p.60 5

Introducing Warsaw

Welcome to Warsaw Warsaw’s Old Town is both cozy and beautiful in the winter.

Located on the Vistula River at the very crossroads of Central Europe, Warsaw is the 8th most populous city in the European Union (1.9 million people) and a major cultural, political and economic hub. The city has had a troubled history ever since King Sigismund III Vasa moved his royal court from Kraków, making Warsaw the new Polish capital in 1569. Pillaged by the Swedes in the 17th century, and occupied by Russia for most of the 19th century, Poland was off the map for 123 years before returning in the aftermath of WWI. The interwar period signalled a golden age for Warsaw, as the city developed on par with other great European capitals. WWII brought new suffering, however. Occupied by Nazi Germany, Warsaw saw its cultural monuments defiled or stolen, and its Jewish population of 350,000 systematically exterminated. With liberation in sight, the Polish population rose up against their German occupiers in August 1944, only for Soviet forces to look on as the Nazis brutally crushed the Uprising and destroyed the city in reprisal. When the fires were extinguished, 150,000 more civilians were dead and German occupation had merely been traded for Soviet oppression, as Poland was pinned under Moscow’s influence for the next four decades, during which Warsaw was rebuilt in communist fashion, earning a reputation as a charmless city of concrete. But that was then, this is now. A compelling blend of East and West, past and future, today’s Warsaw is a modern metropolis of complex character and rich rewards for those who get to know it. Gone are the gloomy images of yesteryear as the city restlessly evolves, buzzing with energy and optimism. Whether you’re here to explore trendsetting urban culture or UNESCO treasures, world-class dining or luxury boutiques, you’ll hardly be disappointed by all the modern capital has to offer. Enjoy Warsaw! 7

Introducing Warsaw

How to Use This Guide Warsaw In Your Pocket is designed to provide you with all of the ideas, tools and information you need to explore the city on your own, stay offline as much as possible, and really connect with the city you’re visiting. Over here at IYP we still believe that the best way to understand the space you’re in is with a map, and the most immersive way to explore it is on foot. As such, our Sightseeing chapter is organised into geographic areas of interest with detailed district maps to help you navigate them. Selfguided district tours include descriptions of all the most important sites, plus local tips on where to eat and drink in each area. There are also intriguing ‘Crossroads’ moments that allow you to be lured towards alternative adventures, either on foot or via public transport.

Warsaw IYP Online

Throughout the guide, page references are liberally used to lead you to related info on a topic elsewhere in the guide, while QR codes will take you to our website when we feel there’s more to know than can be expressed in print. Each venue listing includes a map coordinate (E-8, for example) that correlates to the city map on p.2-3. If there’s a specific venue you’re searching for, use the Venue Index in the back of the guide to quickly find it, or simply follow our informed suggestions.

Warsaw Day Trips

Cover Story Dusk falls over the Ujazdówski Castle, which is dusted in snow. The 13th Century castle now hosts a contemporary art museum. Photo: Filip Kwiatkowski © m.st. Warsaw

Publisher & Staff IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 12,000 copies published every 2 months

Of course, space in our print guide is a finite resource, but if you don’t find what you’re searching for here, we’re confident you’ll find it on our website. Visit warsaw.inyourpocket.com for more info about the capital, and poland.inyourpocket.com to see just how much of the country we cover.

Here is some extra content we wish we had room for in print this issue: Read through our entire guide, done it all and still looking for more? Of course not, but the surrounding region still offers many sites worth exploring, from national parks to spa towns.

Hot Beer!? – Polish winter drinks Winter in Poland can be beautiful but it can also be brutally cold. Lukily, the Poles have you covered with hot beer and hot wine served on the streets!

Know your Uprisings! Poland is tough and people living here have overcome an enormous amount over the centuries. Nothing is more evidence of that than the number of revolts, revolutions and resistences that have taken place over the last millennia. Here's a brief rundown:

Editor: Anna Merriman; Editor in chief: Garrett Van Reed Sales Consultant: Jarek Śliwiński (+48) 606 749 643 Marketing: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 879 494 Research: Joanna Kostkiewicz Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Copyright Notice All content copyright IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o Sp.k. and its partners, unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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ARSAW

Fire, Water and Effigies:

a Brief History of Slavic Traditions Marzanna effigy created for the annual Slavic tradition in March.

If you happen to wander down the streets of Warsaw on the first day of spring this March, you may see an interesting sight: children carrying small dolls resembling the Slavic goddess Marzanna. Stick around a few months until June and take a trip to the Praga side of the Vistula River (especially by the Poniatowski Bridge) to see another interesting sight: groups of young people weaving plants and flowers together in a wreath, affixing them with candles and sending them down the river.

system. And now with the famous Slavic tradition, the Drowning of Marzanna coming up in March (more on that below), it’s the perfect time to take a look at the history of Slavic pagan beliefs and what happened to the paganism that Ancient Slavs followed in Poland.

These are just two of several Slavic traditions that have survived the millennia since Christianity came to Poland. In that time, Poland has become a very Catholic country, but some of those old Slavic traditions and the Pagan religions they followed are still present.

Western Slavic Beliefs

In fact, the longer you spend in Warsaw, the more you’re likely to see little hints of that ancient belief 10

Before Christianity came to this area of Europe, the Western Slavic tribes (who inhabited what are now Poland, Czechia and Slovakia in the pre-10th century) believed in a variety of pagan gods representing different aspects of nature and life-cycles. There is certainly some crossover regarding gods with

On the Town | Slavic Traditions the two other main Slavic groups: Eastern Slavs (modern day Ukraine, Belarus and Russia) and South Slavs (the modern day Balkan countries like Serbia, Croatia, Macedonia etc). But we are in Poland after all, so let’s focus on the Western Slavic groups for now. Within the Western Slavic subgroup was a tribe called the Lechites, who were the primary people living in modernday Poland. The main deity that the Lechitic tribes worshipped was Świętowid, a variation on the Slavic god Perun who represented anything related to bad-weather, as well as war, fertility and oak trees! Other known deities include Mokosz or Mokosh, the ‘Mother Goddess’ who took the form of wet earth, and Marzanna, a female deity associated with winter and rebirth. There was also Niya, a genderless god whose function is associated with death and the transfer of souls to the afterlife. In addition to a variety of gods, Slavic tribes believed in a whole host of spirits that lived among them, in the water, in the trees, in their homes, and to which they worshipped and often made offerings for things like a good crop yield.

The Christianisation of Poland in 966 CE This all changed in the year 966CE when Mieszko I, who had united a number of pagan Slavic tribes with the hope of solidifying a sovereign state, married a Czech princess. As marriages went back then, the purpose of this union was to strengthen political ties. In order to seal the deal, Mieszko was expected to convert to Catholicism, along with his followers in what’s known as the Baptism of Poland. Mieszko’s conversion was, no doubt, convenient in winning the favour of other Catholic states to the west. At the very least, it’s seen as the beginnings of what would be a decades-long process of converting the region to Christianity. Mieszko’s conversion set off a ripple effect of Christianity; churches were built throughout the country in the 10th and 11th centuries and his son, Bolesław the Brave – a huge proponent of Christianity - continued to expand the reach of the religion. He even sent the missionary Adalbert of Prague north to the frontiers of the Baltic coast in an

attempt to convert the Old Prussians. Far from embracing Christianity, the Western Slavs were extremely resistant to it. This led to an uprising in the 1030s, known as the Pagan Reaction, which really refers to a series of rebellions, largely spawned by Slavic frustrations with the spread of Christianity, but also involves some frustrations with class divide (peasants rose up against landowners as well during the Pagan Reaction). During this time, many churches and monasteries in the Kingdom were destroyed and their resident priests and monks were killed. Though the historical records on this period are spotty at best, it’s generally understood that this was enormously destabilizing and led to the king at the time, Mieszko II fleeing the country. Other records claim the uprising happened after his death – like we said, spotty records at best. Nevertheless, the Christianization continued, largely through force, including a series of crusades against northern Slavs. Christians enacted military occupation and forced baptisms in the 12th century, and by the 13th century, much of paganism had been wiped out.

Pagan Traces in Poland Today While much of the Pagan religion followed by Slavs was eradicated by the 14th and 15th centuries, many traditions have managed to stick around, despite Christianization. There are, of course, actual religious groups in Poland that still celebrate and follow Western Slavic religion. But, in recent years, there’s also been a resurgence of younger people celebrating some pagan rituals, not necessarily out of belief, but rather out of honoring past traditions.

The Drowning of Marzanna There is no getting around the pagan roots of this tradition, and we’re putting it first because it is coming up on March 20! In ancient Slavic culture, Marzanna was a goddess who represented the sort of transition period between winter and spring. She was the goddess of vegetation and growth, but also of death and cold and winter. Thus, her death was essential to end winter and bring about spring and the growing season. Pre-Christian traditions included creating an effigy of Marzanna and lighting it on fire at the beginning of spring. Without this ritual, you risked winter continuing on for months. 11

Slavic Traditions | On the Town Noc Kupały Also known as Kupala Night, this tradition is rooted in Eastern Slavic religion, but was popular through Poland and Western Slavic tribes as well. It marks the summer solstice in June or July, and in Slavic tribes, the holiday included a lot of different traditions, mostly held around water. In fact, the name “kupala” derives from the Slavic word “to bathe” and thus, older traditions would include mass bathing in the river. During pre-Christianity, Slavs would also spend the day gathering flowers, singing, dancing and having bonfires. Overall, the holiday celebrates joy, fertility and life.

Kupala night wreaths on the water.

Photo: Bluehorse_PL/Canva

While this tradition has certainly lasted (especially in smaller communities around Poland), it's not as common as some of the other former Slavic traditions (see below). However, it is still celebrated in a similar way as it was a millennium ago, but not quite as serious as it once was (bringing in the growing season isn’t as much of a desperate need when you have a Biedronka right down the street). Still, some people will create effigies out of straw or other cheap materials, dress them up and drown them in the river on the first day of spring. Largely, this is popular with younger children and school groups, who will dunk the doll of Marzanna in a bucket of water. Down in Kraków, this whole event is marked with an annual half-marathon. While that kind of celebration hasn't made its way to Warsaw yet, maybe it's just a matter of time....

Today, Noc Kupały is still celebrated by many, either through a popular event called Wianki which sees outdoor concerts and bands come to Kraków and Warsaw, or through the more traditional, smaller gatherings. Head down to the Vistula River on Kupala night and you’re likely to see a lot of young people making wreaths out of flowers, affixing them with tea candles and sending them down the river at dusk.

Dziady Coming from the Slavic word for “ancestors” or “forefathers” Dziady is, as you might guess, a tradition celebrated in honor of Slavic ancestors. As with many other religions and subcultures around the world, this Slavic tradition was held around Oct. 31 to Nov. 1, and believed to be a time when the dead would return to the world of the living. In pre-Christian customs, Slavs would attempt to communicate with the dead to win favor (and thus, have better luck in fertility, harvest etc). They would do this by “feeding” the dead - i.e. preparing large feasts and dropping food on the ground, table or grave for the souls. They would also light candles to light a path for the souls of their ancestors toward their homes. Today, the holiday that’s celebrated is strictly Christian (though the origins still derive from Dziady): All Saints’ Day in which Poles will go to the graves of their ancestors and clean them of leaves, light candles and have a somber moment of prayer. Essentially, the tradition, both then and now, is borne out of a desire to communicate with the dead loved relatives.

Modern All Saints’ Day in a cemetery.

Photo: Milous/Canva

These traditions are just the tip of the iceberg in terms of Slavic rituals and behaviors that still exist today, but they do shine a light on how many ancient traditions have been integrated into modern society. In Poland, even though Paganism and Slavic culture is over 1,000 years old, it’s a long way from being forgotten.

Centrum Praskie Koneser The Ultimate Praga Destination Centrum Praskie Koneser is the beating heart of Praga.

Centrally located in the heart of Praga there is a magical place with brick walls and rich history. It’s a place where museum lovers can roam through galleries filled with art, where entertainment seekers can listen to live music and watch theater performances during annual summer events (like Lato Konsera). It’s a place where food lovers can try things like authentic Neapolitan pizza, where kids can jump and play and create in a variety of family-centered spaces. This is Centrum Praskie Koneser and it has something for every single visitor who steps foot inside its historic walls. A Rich History Before we get into all that it has to offer, it’s important to look at the background of this 125-yearold space. The neo-Gothic complex was opened in 1897 as a factory to house the famous Koneser Vodka operations. Vodka production continued at the factory through much of the 20th century, with a major boom in the first half of the century, when the factory produced 250,000 bottles of vodka a day. The space lay neglected and abandoned after closing in 2007, until years later when developers started to envision a new life for it. The new and revitalized Centrum Praskie Koneser opened in 2018. Now, 14

among the 19th century buildings, you’ll find sleek glass structures, string lights and pops of greenery that underscore the beauty of theoriginal space.

Art Lovers Rejoice The first group of people who will find this space a must-visit, are the art lovers. You’ll find a number of renowned art galleries and museums, including the Museum of Fantasy art, with Wojciech Siudmak, Zdzisław Beksiński and Jerzy Duda-Gracz paintings. You’ll also find the renowned gallery and must-see Warsaw attraction, ToTuart, which displays beautiful sculptures and paintings.

Featured Partner | Centrum Praskie Koneser Leonarda Art Gallery, an urban art gallery is here as well, as is Art Sułek Space, which has sculptures and paintings in a gallery run by Polish artist Marek Sułek. You can even find the largest sculpture from the Praga Angels – a series of blue angel sculptures Created by Marek Sułek and found all over Praga – right in the middle of Centrum Praskie Koneser! Of course, no trip to Centrum Praskie Koneser is complete without a visit to the Polish Vodka Museum, a multimedia experience that details the history of the beloved booze up through the modern day.

A Welcoming City Break This place is bursting at the seams with activities. The top of the list is the reputed and chic Moxy Warsaw Praga Hotel, which offers a spot to kick back, relax and get ready for more shopping and exploring! After you’re ready to head back out, make sure to see Koneser’s health and beauty options, like Ambassade Biologique Recherche and Eyebar, both of which offer body, face and hair treatments (get glam for a night out on Koneser!) There’s also Centrum Medyczne Damiana, an aesthetics medicine clinic, and Zdrofit, a fitness club – basically everything you need to look and feel great is just a two-second walk away. If it’s cosmetics you’re in the mood for, head over to Mydlarnia Cztery Szpaki, which makes natural handmade soaps and shampoos. And pick up some excellent (and fancy) alcohol at Alembik or Probiernia Urbanowicz.

Foodies Fall in Love It’s no secret that Warsaw is a haven for foodies. But the haven within the haven is undoubtedly Centrum Praskie Koneser. Start with Koneser Grill, a highend steak restaurant, and the only establishment in this part of the city to secure a spot on the coveted Michelin Guide. If you’re looking for variety, try Bombaj Masala, which offers seriously mouth watering Indian food, or Concept Food & Wine, which has comfort food with a modern twist (and some gorgeous plating). Swing by Azia Restaurants for any Asian food you can imagine (ramen and dim sum-lovers, this is your spot). ORZO offers healthy, modern food in a chic space, while Freya Café & Deli has some of the tastiest coffee and best vegetarian food you’ll find in Warsaw. If you’re after pan-European/American food, you’ll find that at Spółdzielnia.Koneser, which offers up everything from tasty buffalo wings to juicy steaks. If you are in the mood for a delectable cocktail, there are plenty of bars, too. Setki Powodów has unique cocktails you won’t find elsewhere in a space decorated with neon signs. Or swing by the 3⁄4 Koneser Bar, located in the Polish Vodka Museum, which offers a number of unique and artisanal alcohol infusions. Finish off your night at Moxy Bar, which is open 24 hours a day and has fun, modern décor in a casual environment.

Fun for Families There’s also a wealth of kid-friendly and kid-focused activities here, starting with miniciti, a city just for kids where they can perform different jobs and earn money! When it comes to outdoor activities, there’s plenty for kids. Take in one of the many events held throughout the summer! You can also play any number of outdoor games that are set up through Koneser all during the warmer months. The food scene isn’t limited to adults, either. Kids will love the meals at L’Osteria Pizza e Pasta, which serves up tasty pizzas, homemade pasta and a traditional Italian flair. Centrum Praskie Koneser isn’t just a destination or a stop. It is a place to spend days and days exploring, having fun, eating and relaxing, just a quick tram ride from the heart of the city.

Centrum Praskie Koneser There’s always something happening at Koneser!

QK‑2, Plac Konesera, MDworzec Wileński, www.koneser.eu. TU6 15

Hala Koszyki

Warsaw’s Delicious Melting Pot Hala Koszyki’s bustling food and drink scene is unmatched.

For many people, the idea of a combination food hall/shopping center conjures up images of malls and cafeterias. But let Hala Koszyki dispel that notion right here, right now. This revitalized market hall trades those outdated ideas of mall food courts for a new, modern concept, complete with a sleek, industrial-style contemporary interior, and pops of color and light. Not only is the interior stunning, but the culinary offering is also top-notch, from sushi and dim sum to burgers and gelato. Let’s dive in… How Hala Koszyki Came to Be Once you get over the initial aesthetic awe and the deluge of design delight that sets in once you see the hallowed Hala yourself (the pictures don’t nearly do it justice) you’ll likely start wondering about this history. The ‘new’ Hala Koszyki opened in 2016 after a giant 5-year restoration and revitalization project helmed by Griffin Real Estate and designed by JEMS Architects. Their mutual love of the original market hall – designed in the secessionist style (art nouveau) over 100 years ago by Juliusz Dzierżanowski in 190609 – is apparent in every last detail, right down to the 16

cleaning and the reusing of original individual bricks, restoring original lattice metalwork and sculptural details relating to products on sale in the original market by sculptor Józef Zygmunt Ott. Thanks to many of the modern design tweaks and incredible aesthetic details like the expertly curated background music, walking around Hala Koszyki, perusing the stalls, and finding out what its tenants have to offer, is a wholly unique experience. It’s almost like taking a step back in time and forward into the future, all at once. Hala Koszyki isn’t exactly a shopping center and it is perhaps the furthest thing

Featured Partner | Hala Koszyki from an American style ‘mall’ you may ever find. The designers and investors were certainly inspired by the mission and functionality of the original Hala – a community marketplace where locals could do their daily or weekly shopping, commune over some good food, gossip a bit and maybe pick up a light bulb or two. With the entirety of the central hall devoted to eating establishments with a big old sexy bar in the middle, they took this initial communal concept and multiplied it times Warsaw.

Eat or Drink… Why Not Both? So how many world cuisine eateries, of various sizes, can you squeeze into one space and how many is too many? One of the biggest ‘problems’ Hala Koszyki poses to visitors is where and what to eat (though is that really a problem?). Any time of the day or night you enter the building your taste buds are immediately assaulted by smells and flooded with flavors wafting from many of the gastronomic outposts in the main hall. The creme de la creme of the last decade of Warsaw’s gastronomic trends are all on offer including hummus, sushi, burgers, curry (Indian and Thai), seafood, grilled meats and artisanal sandwiches galore (check their website for a full list). Top class little independent bistros sit next to some of Warsaw’s biggest chain restaurants. But what about that bar… This is without a doubt one of the biggest attractions of Hala Koszyki and immediately gives the hall the laid back ambiance of an after-hours lounge. In fact, thanks to the bar, all of the food vendors also offer their own alcohol and many of them offer different craft beers on tap and in bottles, artisanal ciders, wines, original cocktails plus a bevy of alternative non-alco beverages from mango lassis to John Lemmons and everywhere in

between. This is all well and good but it also means that once you finally find your food of choice, you’ll have to do a second round to find the perfect beverage to wash it down with!

A Plethora of Options Food and beverages aside, there is indeed a “market” here! The name itself, ‘Koszyki’, is actually a play on words as koszyki means baskets (think shopping baskets – even though that’s not where the name comes from). So what can you actually put in your basket? If you enter the market through the left wing you’ll undoubtedly run smack into the meat stall ie Crazy Butcher. They offer cuts of meat that you can normally only find in the finest restaurants in the city. You’ll also find Smak Natury which is a deluxe health food emporium. Elsewhere on the ground floor you’ll find a tea shop, a kitchen shop, a Mediterranean deli, jewelry, flowers and more. This is a place not only to spend an afternoon, but a whole day! Work in a coworking space, grab some lunch at the food hall, grab an after-work drink with friends and make sure to get in some shopping before you head home – it’s all here!

Insta-grand Now that your basket’s full, take the elevator to level 1 for a bit of culture in the in-house modern art gallery. This level is also home to a culinary school, a travel agency, another art gallery and coworking spaces. Stroll along the catwalks and just try and resist the urge to pull out your smartphone and instagram everything. Don’t worry, you certainly won’t be alone. Hala Koszyki has been voted as one of the top 10 instagrammable spots in the city. Hala Koszyki has become a staple in Warsaw and, rather unsurprisingly, proved amazingly popular amongst the young and the beautiful, who flock here in droves every day (almost 3 million people visit every year!). It also has a robust cultural agenda, bringing in weekly concerts, orchestras, exhibitions and more. There is no questioning this is the place of the moment so get there in a jiffy and don’t forget to look up, down, sideways etc. as beautiful hidden details abound!

Hala Koszyki QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00-01:00. XTU6 Tasty bites, killer drinks, what’s not to love?

Traditional Polish Dishes Polish food is famous for being simple, rich and very filling. Below we list the most well-known dishes you simply must try while in town, all of which you should be able to order from any Polish restaurant worth its salt. Smacznego! Barszcz A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with a croquette (‘barszcz z krokietem’), with miniature pierogi floating in it (‘barszcz z uszkami’), or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. A recommended alternative to other beverages, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Poland, so make sure you return home with barzszcz stains on at least one of your shirts.

Bigos Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

Gołąbki Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish is like a ‘cabbage enchilada'. Consisting of boiled cabbage leaves filled with rice, onion and typically beef, gołąbki are rolled up and baked or steamed, then served with tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims that King Kazimierz IV fed his army gołąbki before the Battle of Grunwald, and their unlikely victory attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

Golonka This is ‘pork knuckle’ or ‘ham hock,’ as in the part of a pig’s leg between the knee and ankle. Boiled, braised or roasted, this is the closest the Poles come to barbecue, and is a delicacy. The meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Generally sold by weight, you might end up with more than you bargained for, but it’s certainly an Instagram opportunity. Go caveman. 18

Kotlet Schabowy Typically served with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, this is probably the most popular meal in Poland. Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a weekend by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the sound of the meat being tenderised with a spiky mallet, so best mind your manners.

Pierogi Poland’s most famous food, you can't leave PL until you’ve had them. These doughy, stuffed dumplings are typically steamed or pan-fried. Traditional fillings include potato, sweet cheese, minced meat, mushrooms and cabbage or seasonal fruits. If you nose around, you’ll find plenty of maverick fillings like chocolate, lentils or even chicken livers; the possibilities are limitless and served literally everywhere.

Placki Ziemniaczane These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to hashbrowns or Jewish latkes (if that means anything to you), and may be served in a variety of ways. Keep it simple with just sour cream (‘placki solo’), or turn it into a hefty meal by ordering them smothered in mushroom sauce or - our favourite - goulash (‘placki po węgiersku’). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

Żurek It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a sour soup made from a thick stock of fermented rye flour. Typically chock full of potatoes, sausage and hard-boiled eggs, żurek is most often thickened with cream, and seasoned with marjoram, garlic, salt and pepper. The result is a tasty grayish gruel that any Polish peasant would be proud to polish off. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get it served in a bread bowl. 19

Drink Like a Local Polish vodka bottles at the Vodka Museum.

The Italians have wine, the Spaniards have wine. The French…. also wine. But what does Poland do best when it comes to alcohol? Vodka and beer. These are the two most popular alcoholic beverages in Poland, and that means that brewers and distillers alike have spent a lot of time honing their crafts. Here’s a rundown of the history of these two popular drinks:

The Long History of Vodka The name “vodka” (an anglicised version of the Polish “wódka” pronounced “v-ood-kah”) means quite literally “little water.” The origins of the drink date back to the 8th century, when distillation was discovered and the practice began to sweep across Europe. When it comes to vodka itself, the first written record of the drink came out in 1405 in Poland. Originally, it was used as medicine: it helped treat wounds, numb pain, make perfume. But the consumption of vodka became more popular in the 15th and 16th centuries as it became industrialized across the country, with distilleries opening in Kraków, Gdańsk and Poznań (in fact, the popular Żubrówka vodka dates back to this century). The popularization of vodka continued at a quick clip in Poland, hitting some bumps along the way 20

(production slowed during the wars at the beginning of the 20th century). Now, Poland is one of the top three producers of vodka in the world, and produced nearly 100 million liters in 2016 alone.

Vodka Traditions Poles are proud of their vodka and as a result, there are many traditions surrounding the drink. You may not run into all of them when you visit, but here’s a run-down just in case: Na zdrowie – say this as you clink glasses and make sure to look your drinking partner in the eye or you’ll have years (some say 7, some say 5) of bad luck. Christmas vodka – drinking a shot of vodka (sipping, not tossing it back) with some good pickled fish (Śledz) is a classic Christmas tradition. In fact, pickled fish and vodka commonly go together at any time of year. Wedding shots – After the ceremony, the bride and groom will each get a shot of vodka and they’re supposed to down the shot, toss the glasses behind their backs, and break them. The broken glasses signify good luck in the marriage.

Drink Like a Local

Vodka Types There are many good Polish vodkas but also some classics: Żubrówka – this is a Polish vodka from the 16th century that is just a classic staple. One popular kind has a sprig of bison grass inside, which makes the drink a little bright and earthy. Goldwasser – bet you didn’t know this was Polish! This is a classic from the Gdańsk area, and you’ll know it because it has gold flakes floating inside and a slightly cinnamon-y taste. Chopin – This is just a good vodka. It’s not too sharp, well balanced and it goes great with everything. Luksusowa – Finally, the people’s vodka. This is good and affordable. This is what people buy to drink with friends on an unassuming Friday night. Where to get it: The better question is where not to get vodka in Warsaw? The Polish Vodka Museum (p.61) and the Vodka Museum (p.70) will each take you on a tour through the history of vodka and give you a chance to try some! Klar (G-5) is known for their unique vodka flavors, which are constantly changing as they find new ways to infuse vodka with berries, herbs and spices! Pijalnia wodki i piwa is a chain with plenty of vodka types to sample and enjoy.

Craft Beer Becomes Big Poland also has a long history with beer that dates back to the middle ages. But it wasn’t until the 18th and 19th centuries that beer became mass produced on an industrial scale. The Tychy Brewery, which produces the extremely popular beer Tyskie, has been around since the 17th century.

industrial brewers, they were able to focus more on experimenting with non-traditional ingredients and techniques, leading to more interesting flavors.

Craft Beer Types: Pinta – around since 2010, this brewery is one of the most popular craft breweries in all of Poland, and regularly makes hazy IPAs, sour beers, pale ales, pilsners – the works! Funky Fluid – a Warsaw-based brewery, this is another type of craft beer that’s been gaining more and more popularity over the years for its bold flavors of hoppy, wild and sour beers (and more!) Trzech Kumpli – brewing since the start of the craft beer craze in about 2014, this brewery makes a lot of dark beers (smoked porters, Irish stouts) as well as light lagers and pilsners. Piwne Podziemie – one of the smaller craft breweries, but that means they can really focus on their flavor and they deliver! For the beer snobs who have tried every type, this is the beer to grab. Where to get it: Well of course you can buy the large-scale, industrial beers (Tyskie, Lech, Żywiec) pretty much anywhere. But for craft beers, you have to know where to go. Pinta has a bar specializing in their beers on Chimelnia Street. Other bars like Jabeerwocky (G-8), Kufle i Kapsle (p. 99), will also offer great craft beers, Bierhalle (p.84), and Browary Warszawskie (p.28) are very popular, too. Plus, don’t miss the beer festivals held in the spring and fall in Warsaw!

The initial styles beloved by Poles were porters (dark beers) and then pale ales (much lighter beers) swiftly began to take over. Like vodka, beer production hit some bumps in the early 20th century but picked up again in the late century. And that brings us to today – almost. While many of those lager-style beers have reigned in popularity for decades, the past 10 years have seen smaller breweries start getting in on the beer game. Many home brewing operations started making craft beer, and by making smaller batches than

Craft Beer Tasting Boards!

Photo: Meritt Thomas on Unsplash.com

Transport

Even in the harshest winter conditions, Warsaw trams prevail! Photo by icephotography/Adobestock

Travelling around Warsaw by bus, metro and tram is fast, efficient and affordable; driving a car through the centre, on the other hand, can be confusing and frustrating. As such, for visitors the city centre is best navigated by bike, scooter, public transport or taxi/ride share - all of which are explained here. For detailed info about Warsaw’s airports and train stations, visit our website.

Public Transport Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system, as well as a good metro system with the M1 line running north-south and M2 running east-west. Over 1,900 buses operate in and around the city, and run 05:00-23:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops. Standardised tickets are valid for use on the metro, buses and trams, and can be bought from machines with instructions in English at all metro stations, and some bus and tram stops. Tickets can also be purchased from machines on the actual buses and trams, where you can pay by card, or using exact change only. A standard single fare costs 4.40zł for 75min, or 3.40zł for a 20min ticket. If you’re travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll need a 7zł ticket 22

that covers both zones 1 and 2 (note that the airport is still in Zone 1). Tickets valid for 24 hours, 3 days and a special ‘weekend’ ticket might also be worth considering. Those over 70 ride for free, as do children up until the end of September of the year they turn 7, but you must have photo ID (those who ride free still need a ticket/’wejściówka’ to get through the gates of the metro - find wall dispensers next to the gates and hang on to the ticket for multiple rides). Everyone else pays full fare, unless you have an ISIC card which entitles you to a reduced fare (‘ulgowy’ ticket). Once you’re through the electronic gates of the metro, you’re ready to ride. For buses and trams, however, there’s one extra step - validating your ticket immediately once you’re on board in the small ‘kasownik’ boxes on trams and buses. Plain clothes ticket inspectors stalk the lines, dishing out hefty fines for those without valid tickets. They often don’t look very official and you are within your rights to request identification.Qwww.ztm.waw.pl.

Transport

Car & Bike Share

Useful Transport Tools

Skutery Centrum Motor Scooter Rental

Jakdojade

Due to Warsaw’s spread-out nature, getting around is definitely challenge we all have to confront, and renting a scooter (the motorbike kind, think Vespa) is certainly a more fun, stylish and convenient option than the bus, tram or searching for car parking. Skutery Centrum are located just minutes from the train station and offer a large selection of sporty and stylish rides, all of which can accommodate two people and come with two helmets. You don’t need a special license or instruction and you can rent a scooter for as few as 4hrs, by the week, or even buy one for keeps. In the off-season it’s best to call and book in advance and secure a pickup time as they might be out of the office (call the listed number). QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 32/34, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 99 77 60, www.skutery-centrum.pl. Open 07:30-19:30.

Traficar Car Share Want your own car, but just for a short while? Download the Traficar app, find an empty vehicle, scan the QR code, and you’re in. You can leave the car in any legal parking space within their service zone, and you don’t have to pay for gas! Everything is done through their easy-to-use app. In terms of cost versus a taxi, it comes out about the same, but as an alternative to car rental, Traficar is a wonder. You can rent a vehicle for 24 hours for only 89zł and even drop it off in another city where Traficar operates. As such, this is a great option for day and weekend trips, big shopping trips, or simply picking up friends at the airport. Note that you need to have a valid driver’s license that is recognised in PL.Qwww.traficar.pl. Prices are calculated as 4.99zł to start a journey, plus 1.89zł/km; or 69zł/day and .99zł/km.

Warsaw’s public transit network is relatively easy to use, but the key to unlocking it is the warszawa. jakdojade.pl site and web app. Let the app access your location and it’ll determine the most efficient way to get to your destination - whether it be bus, tram, metro or train, which isn’t always obvious using live data. A huge help for navigating your way around, you can also buy and validate tickets in the app.

E-podroznik.pl This site can also help you get from point A to point B within Warsaw, but is really invaluable when it comes to planning the journey to your next destination, whether within Poland or abroad, by bus or train. Use e-podroznik.pl to easily search bus and train connections and timetables, compare prices and even buy tickets in one of seven languages. There’s also a free mobile app (Android only).

Ride Share & Taxis You’ll be happy to know that some of the ride share apps already on your phone will work in Warsaw, including Uber, Bolt and Free Now. In fact, ride share services and taxi services are almost indistinguishable in the capital, with drivers typically operating on multiple platforms at the same time. Note, however, that ride share providers don’t have the same permissions as licensed cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly. If you want to make sure you’re getting an actual taxi, try iTaxi (itaxi.pl), or call the Glob Cab Taxi at +48 1-9668 or +48 666 00 9668i.

Scooter Rental Although agitating to some, electric motorised scooters are everywhere across Warsaw, and provide a cheap, easy, efficient and environmentally-friendly way to get around. To get started, you need an e-scooter app on your phone (create an account and add your personal data and payment details). The firms with the most current coverage in the capital are Lime and Bolt. Spare yourself the wrath of locals by using your scooter responsibly; don’t ride through congested areas and when you’ve finished your ride, park it out of the way without blocking the sidewalk. Warsaw’s metro is unmatched.

David Crespo/Canva

Snow-dusted rooftops in the Old Town with Warsaw’s bustling city center in the background | Photo: prokreacja.com/Canva

Warsaw Sightseeing When it comes to Sightseeing, visitors should be sure to experience the dynamic synergy of Warsaw as a modern metropolis that still nurtures its cultural spirit and traditions. To this end, our guide details the capital’s most important districts, walking you through not only the antiquated Old Town (p.36), regal Royal Route (p.44) and the imperial beauty of Łazienki (p.54) and Wilanów (p.58), but also around the soaring, frenetic City Centre (p.26), happening Powiśle (p.50) and scruffy Praga (p.60). If your time is limited, however, here’s a cheat sheet of the city’s most unmissable sights.

Sightseeing | Essential Warsaw

9 Essential Sights 1

Plac Zamkowy

Old Town Square

Vistula Boulevards

More of a triangle than a square, and home to the Royal Castle, this popular plac is where modern Warsaw meets the Old Town.QSee p.37. A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ of Warsaw’s golden days, the Old Town is also symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the ruins of WWII.QSee p.41. Warsaw’s left-bank boulevards are a favourite haunt of the locals - go and see why - walk, ride, or just chill on the riverside steps. Wow.QSee p.51

Łazienki Park

Full of incredible art and architecture this massive park and palace complex offers spectacular opportunities for sightseeing or simply relaxing.QSee p.54.

Wilanów Palace

POLIN Museum

Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17thcentury royal palace 10km to the south.QSee p.58. 1000 years of Jewish history in Poland is chronicled in this excellent museum where the Jewish Ghetto stood during WWII.QSee p.73.

One of Poland’s most prestigious art centres with a packed program of exhibitions, performances, film screenings and artist residencies!QSee p. 70.

Warsaw Rising Museum

Chronicling the heroism and tragedy of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, this modern museum packed with multimedia displays is one of PL’s best.QSee p.75.

Palace of Culture & Science

Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’, this 237-metre-high structure was Warsaw’s tallest building until 2021, and takes its inspiration from the capitalist world namely the Empire State Building. Working around the clock, it took over 5,000 workers - ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a purpose-built village - just three years to finish the Palace in 1955. With 3,288 rooms inside, the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just Communist Party headquarters but also as ‘The People’s Castle.’ Now an iconic part of Warsaw’s landscape, the Palace is celebrated by some, while for others it merely represents Russian hegemony. At present the building hosts several theatres, a cinema, numerous bars, restaurants and cafes, and a tourist info office, as well as the National Museum of Technology and the Museum of Evolution. Tours of the interiors are offered hourly in Polish between 10:00 and 15:00, and in English at 16:00. Book tickets online in advance, or skip the tour and head straight to the outdoor viewing terrace on the 30th floor (via elevator) for thrilling panoramic views; tickets available online. QE‑8, Pl. Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Open 09:00-18:00. Viewing terrace open 10:00-20:00; terrace admission 25/20zł. U

The iconic Palace of Culture & Science is controversial amongst locals, due to its association with Poland’s communist era.

Warsaw ‘City Centre’ The sun sets over Warsaw in the winter. Photo by Łukasz Szczepański/Adobestock

Known locally as ‘Śródmieście,’ Warsaw’s City Centre isn’t exactly a district (it comprises several, actually), but more of a catch-all term for the downtown area. Definitions vary, but generally, you know it when you’re in it - wide streets, monumental buildings, billboards, busy crosswalks and little to stand in the way of progress. It’s the modern, fast-paced, forwardlooking part of the city radiating out from the Palace of Culture & Science, and it’s here that you’ll find the majority of the city’s hotels, restaurants and bars, but also government buildings, skyscrapers and places of commerce - the dynamic heart of the contemporary capital. In terms of tourism, it’s not exactly inviting, so why start here? Well, chances are you’re staying in the City Centre and probably there right now, so let’s get familiar with what’s around before running off to the Old Town (p.36). Despite not being particularly cosy or nostalgic, there are still many points of interest downtown, and nowhere more conveys the modern character of the Polish capital. 26

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Warsaw City Centre | Sightseeing

Places to Explore 1

Plac Piłsudskiego

Used over the centuries for military parades and national celebrations, this is Warsaw’s largest square. Named after legendary inter-war Polish leader, Józef Piłsudski; you’ll find a statue of the Marshal guarding his naming rights with a stern gaze nearby. The space has undergone quite a few rebrandings thanks to the changing political landscape, including a stint as ‘Adolf Hitler Platz’ under Nazi occupation. During the era of Partitions, the huge orthodox St. Nevsky Cathedral was built here. Considered a symbol of Russian oppression, it was razed after Poland regained its independence. It was here that in 1979, Polish Pope John Paul II gave an open-air holy mass to 500,000 people, instilling hope in the struggle against the repressive communist system. In 2018, two new monuments were added - both relating to the tragic and highly politicised Smoleńsk Air Disaster in which a plane carrying 96 members of a Polish government delegation crashed in the Russian forest in 2010; everyone on board perished, including President Lech Kaczyński, whose monument here gazes upon that of the other victims. At the western end of the square you’ll find the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the broken colonnades of Saxon Palace - the grand structure this square stood in front of until its destruction during WWII. Here, the ashes of unidentified soldiers who died for the Polish cause are interred and an eternal flame is guarded by stone-faced soldiers. If you enjoy a bit of military theatre, you can watch the official changing of the guard every hour, on the hour, 365 days a year.QF‑6, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

Saxon Garden’s ever-photogenic fountain

Saxon Garden

Plac Piłsudskiego’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier almost serves as an entrance gate into Saski Park, aka Saxon Garden. This historic 15.5ha park is the oldest in the city, and became one of the first public parks in the world when it opened to all in 1727. At that time it was a Baroque garden with the grandiose Saxon Palace playing a role very similar to the Palace of Versailles in Paris’ famous park. Despite its demise during WWI, Saxon Garden still offers several historical points of interest, in addition to lots of benches, plenty of shade and a much-needed escape from the urban din of the capital. The centrepiece of the gardens is a large fountain created in 1855 by renowned Warsaw architect Henryk Marconi. The alleyways running out from it are lined with blooming flowers, ancient trees and neoclassical sculptures. In the northwestern part of the park, you’ll find the Romanesque Water Tower from 1825 - also designed by Marconi, and modelled on the famous Temple of Vesta in Tivoli. Other curiosities include a sundial from 1863, a memorial honouring Varsovians killed during WWII, and a statue of Stefan Starzyński - the city’s mayor at the outbreak of WWII, who later to became a victim of Dachau concentration camp. It’s also worth noting the beautiful Renaissance palace on the southern side of the park, which holds Zachęta - Warsaw’s premier space for contemporary art (p.71).QF‑6, Between ul. Marszałkowska and Plac Piłsudskiego, MŚwiętokrzyska. 3

Browary Warszawskie

Once one of Central Europe’s most famous brewing complexes, this 4.5ha area has been revitalised into a trendy urban culture and gastronomy district, densely packed with dozens of restaurants, cafes, bars, bakeries and shops. Mixing bold new architecture with restored historical buildings, post-industrial design with public green spaces, the heart of this ‘city within the city’ is Food Hall Browary - 11 contemporary gastro concepts in the former cellars (p.94). The historic Browar Warszawski (Warsaw Brewery) itself has also been revived and is once again producing craft beers (19 different types!) for local hopheads, while other highlights include a sports bar part-owned by Robert Lewandowski (Nine’s). The food is delicious and so is the atomosphere -- it's worth coming here for a date night, or a friend gathering or even just a simple pint after work. There's always something brewing at Browary, so check online for events.QC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 60, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www. browarywarszawskie.com.pl.

Sightseeing | Warsaw City Centre

Fabryka Norblina’s Food Town has dishes from around the world in a cozy, modern space. 4

Plac Europejski & Warsaw Spire

One of Warsaw’s newest public spaces, European Square was created by Wirtz International Landscape Architecture as part of the impressive Warsaw Spire - Poland’s 3rd-tallest skyscraper at 220m. Both the square and the office building have won awards for their design. This small square has a lot of features: trees, benches, fountains, reflecting pools, two large murals, an amphitheatre, a unique Art Walk gallery where changing exhibits are displayed, and an iconic 3D Instagram-baiting installation that says ‘Kocham Warszawę’ (I Love Warsaw). Of course there are cafes, bars and food options as well, making this a very unique and worthwhile place to hang out in Warsaw’s business district.QC‑7, MRondo Daszyńskiego. 5

Fabryka Norblina

This former industrial site covering an area of 2ha near Rondo Daszyńskiego was once one of the largest enterprises in the Kingdom of Poland, with a long, complex history that dates back to the 1840s. The Norblin, Buch Brothers and T. Werner Factory (to give its full name) produced a wide range of metal, tin and silver-plated goods - sugar bowls, teapots, cutlery, vases, dishes and more - ranging from the utilitarian to true works of art. Until recently a neglected pearl of post-industrial architecture, massive investment has turned the area into a lively modern urban centre of culture, entertainment, gastronomy and commerce. Now, find over 24,000m2 of total commercial space open to the public. Visitors will find an impressive museum covering the site’s industrial history, the BioBazar eco (organic) food market and bistro, the KinoGram boutique cinema, ArtBox Experience, a fitness centre, shops, cafes and more - including a bevy of events.

edutainment zones

engaging attractions

Get ready for a fun-packed family day out!

Brand new attraction for children in Warsaw! "This place will take children on a journey to a small planet of great explorers. A world of limitless imagination, cosmic adventures and sporting excitement." Anna Lewandowska - IG @annalewandowska

more info & tickets at www.smartkidsplanet.pl Find us at Warsaw Norblin Factory

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Warsaw City Centre | Sightseeing been recently renovated and today features dozens of benches, neatly landscaped grassy areas and even a pond with a waterfall. Very well lit, it’s a wonderful place to relax or enjoy the many bars and cafes that surround it, day or night. Joining the square is ul. Próżna, the only full street that survived the Jewish Ghetto. It is here in the former heart of the Jewish Warsaw (p.72) that the Singer Jewish Culture Festival takes place each year in late August/early September. The Nożyk Synagogue - the city’s only synagogue to survive the war and still in use today - can also be found close by at ul. Twarda 6.QE‑7, MŚwiętokrzyska. 7

Złote Tarasy

There is plenty of great shopping to be had in and around Warsaw, and Złote Tarasy, seated next to the central train station, is no exception with great stores like Sephora, Van Graaf and Zara.

Hala Koszyki (next page) is as industrial-chic as they come!

To top it all off, a trendy indoor Food Town lives at the heart of the space, with 23 gastronomy concepts from around the globe, and 5 bars to add to the service! Additionally, Hala Gimlet, is an everyday live music space, featuring bands, DJs and jazz sessions. This is the ideal spot for a day-to-night date, as there is plenty going on and lots of shopping, eating and drinking to be had! But it's not just a place to go out on the town. Young families will also find a lot of options here, starting with Smart Kids Planet (p.79), an educational play center for young children to partake in the fun with highly interactive games, activities and more! . This truly is the astounding cutting edge of Warsaw’s urban culture, so check it out.QC/D‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.fabrykanorblina.pl. TE6 6

Plac Grzybowski

This delightful square connects the city’s past to its present and unites the worlds of commerce, religion, entertainment and art. The main attraction is the 19th century Renaissance All Saints’ Church. From 1941 it was inside the Warsaw Ghetto and Parish Priest Fr. Monsignor Marceli Godlewski helped to house Jews in the rectory and assisted several to escape. Rebuilt after the war, the entire square has 30

But many people actually admire the complex for its aesthetic style and ultra modern architecture. Even if you’re not in the mood to shop, it’s a good idea to check out the space, which has a 10,000m glass dome fitted with a special mechanism to both filter sunrays and stop snow from building up. The dome itself is reminiscent of waves, water, balloons, bubbles -- basically any form without a straight edge. The 1.5 billion zł project was designed by a California-based firm and construction began in 2002. After it was completed in 2004, the design - sleek, contemporary, eye-catching - won the firm an award by a famous London-based architecture magazine. It’s worth stepping inside to see the multi-level beloved behemouth in person! QE‑8, ul. Złota 59, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 222 22 00, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-21:00.

All Saints’ Church in Plac Grzybowski. © stompi_stompi_AdobeStock

Sightseeing | Warsaw City Centre 8

Pasaż Wiecha and the Eastern Wall

Pasaż Wiecha runs parallel to ul. Marszałkowska in the shadow of departments stores, known as the ‘Eastern Wall.’ The area has undergone a lot of lives and style inspirations over the last century. Initially, the buzzword for architects in the region was Socialist Realism, a severe style following strict guidelines from a Soviet masterplan. The death of Stalin in 1953 changed all that and architects looked to the west for inspiration. This led to all manner of brutalist monstrosities rising from the ruins left after WWII. One was this massive wall of buildings, which is now among the oldest department store/ retail complexes in Poland. Designed by architect Zbigniew Karpiński and completed in 1969, the buildings were hailed a work of genius, but soon fell into neglect. Eventually new life was breathed into the complex. Now, find shining glass frontages added to the department stores, and granite floored pedestrian walkways and modern tubular lighting added to the section behind the Jerozolimskie end. Although once entirely dodgy, Pasaż Wiecha - the long space behind the ‘Eastern Wall’ - is today lined with shops and restaurant gardens on both sides, making it an interesting area to explore. It also increasingly plays host to events like food fairs. Ironically, the centrepiece of the city’s big 1960s redevelopment plan is now a focal point in the ‘Nowe Centrum Warszawy’ plan, which will see this immediate area redeveloped once again in the near future. It’s all part of a larger plan to support a lively pedestrian corridor through the city centre from here to ul. Nowy Świat (p.49) via ul. Chmielna. Start a wander east down the latter from here to see how far the city has progressed so far.QF‑7/8, MCentrum. 9

FRESH START

Plac Pięciu Rogów & ul. Chmielna

Warsaw’s newest public square opened in July 2022 at the intersection of Bracka, Krucza, Zgody, Szpitalna and Chmielna Streets - hence the name, ‘Five Corner Square.’ Although the new design still features a lot of concrete, 22 maple trees have been added to the space, as well as numerous benches with almost 40 sitting places. Most significantly, the entire area has been opened up and given over to pedestrians, which is a huge improvement over the urban tangle that previously prevailed here. Plac Pięciu Rogów is basically the centrepiece of redevelopment works throughout this area which are transforming ul. Chmielna into a high street for pedestrians. A great area for exploration: you’ll plenty of cafes, restaurants, bars and intriguing places for relaxing and refuelling. QG‑7/8, MCentrum, www.plac5rogow.pl. 31

Warsaw City Centre | Sightseeing 10 Plac Zbawiciela

11 Warsaw University of Technology

In the aftermath of WWII, this star-shaped roundabout became dominated by PRL-era buildings from the 1950s, but still harbours a couple of gems. The first is the conspicuous Church of the Holiest Saviour, from which the square takes its name (Saviour Square). Built in neo-Renaissance style in the 1920s, that it stands is a marvel, considering it was dynamited by the Nazis during WWII and then tagged for demolition by the communists. The other pre-war building here is the handsome Jasieńczyk-Jabłoński tenement (Mokotowska 12), erected in 1910. Upon completion, it was not only one of the most modern, but also the tallest residential building in Warsaw (38 m).

Known locally as Politechnika Warszawska, this is one of the largest universities of technology in Central Europe, with over 36,000 students. The historic main building is a wonder of neo-baroque architecture designed at the turn of the 19th century. Stout, sturdy and with unique rounded corners, the two-story building survived WWII bombing and was quickly retouched after the war. Its facade features an array of architectural embellishments: sculptures, bas-reliefs, frescoes and sgraffito. If you think the exterior is impressive, head inside to see the pentagonal cloister courtyard with four stories of arcades, staircase and beautiful stained-glass roof. QF‑10, Plac Politechniki 1, MPolitechnika. Open 08:00-18:00.

From 2012–2015, Julita Wójcik’s “Rainbow” art installation notably soared over Plac Zbawiciela. A 9m-high 26m-wide rainbow made of plastic flowers, the piece proved too controversial for PL’s anti-LGBT factions, who repeatedly lit it on fire until it was removed. Though there have been plans to replace it with a fireproof version, the current political climate doesn’t seem conducive to its return. That aside, Saviour Square today is quite the progressive meeting place for students, artists and activists who favour the hip bars here like Plan B (Al. Wyzwolenia 18) and Charlotte (Al. Wyzwolenia 18/2U).QG‑10, MPolitechnika.

If you're wondering where all the students are, this might be the answer. This is one of Warsaw's handful of marvelous indoor market halls, with food, shopping, art and more! And this is definitely one to check out because it's photogenic, with a phenomenal ground-floor food hall, with everything form dim sum to gelato, burgers, fries and more! There are plenty of boutique shops and a lot of great events held here. This is urban revitalisation at its most impressive and photogenic. See more on p.16. QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www. koszyki.com. Open 08:00-01:00.

Inside the Warsaw University of Technology.

12 Hala Koszyki

Warsaw City Centre | Sightseeing

S k y s c r a p e r s & Viewpoints Warsaw Spire - PL’s 3rd-tallest skyscraper (p.29). Photo by Adrian Grycuk.

Warsaw has plainly stated its ambition to have more skyscrapers than any other city in Europe. The city currently has 25 buildings over 100m high, with another 10 approved for construction, and enough pending approval to potentially bring the total up to 65 in the coming years. Beloved by locals and symbolic of the city’s aspiration to be the most modern capital in Europe, here are some of the most notable towers in town. 34

Varso: This neomodern office complex is the tallest building in the EU at 310m (though the last 80m is a spire). An observation deck at 230m will open in 2024. QE-8.

Palace of Culture & Science: Buy a ticket, then head up to the 30th floor of Warsaw’s oldest and second tallest skyscraper (237m) for amazing panoramic views from an actual open-air terrace. More on p.25.QE-9.

Warsaw UNIT: Warsaw’s 5th tallest tower (202m) was completed in 2021. Opening soon on the 46th floor will be a Skybar and the wild new adrenaline attraction Skyfall Warsaw - a vertigo-inducing glass box that dangles outside the building and suddenly tilts 15 degrees forward!QC-8.

Złota 44: Designed by Daniel Libeskind, this luxury residential tower is one of Wawa’s most beautiful and distinctive skyscrapers, and its 7th tallest (192m).QE-8.

InterContinental Hotel: At 165m, Warsaw’s InterContinental Hotel is one of the tallest 5-star hotels in the world, and features the highest swimming pool in Europe at 150m. Open to non-guests, go have a swim in the clouds.QE-8.

Centrum LIM/The Marriott: The Marriott’s Panorama Sky Bar on the 40th floor of this veteran skyscraper (completed 1989) offers a liquid view to the city. Although the drinks are among Wawa’s most expensive, this is one of the city’s most accessible views.QE-9.

Warsaw - THE HUB: Completed in 2020, this complex consists of two 130m buildings and an 86m building. For great views, head up to the bar on the 21st floor - The Roof (p.102).QC-8.

Atlas Tower: 119m tall and completed way back in 1999, the locals think this one looks like a porta-loo, but the 27th floor features one of the best luxury roof clubs in the world, Level 27. The building is also home to the Invisible Exhibition (p.70). QE-9.

Nova Wola

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE Rondo Daszyńskiego 2 Warszawa +48 22 377 38 01 novawola.com novawola@ihg.com novawola.com

The Old Town Warsaw’s snow-covered Old Town.

A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement facades and picturesque plazas, it’s easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaw’s top tourist area. A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ when Warsaw was a pearl of European architecture, the Old Town was actually entirely rebuilt after WWII. Today it stands as a stunning testament of Varsovians’ great pride in their city, and its rise from the ruins. If you have only one day in Warsaw, you should spend part of it here. In the devastating aftermath of the Warsaw Uprising (p.74), 85% of the city’s left bank lay in ruin, half of its population had perished, and the Old Town was a smouldering wasteland. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau immediately started rebuilding the historic centre using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs. The first phase of reconstruction was completed in 1953, but works continued in the following decades, finally concluding with the opening of the Royal Castle (p.38) in 1984. Although what you see today is not strictly ‘original’ per say, its inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List speaks volumes of its authenticity and the effort required to recreate it. 36

WALKING TOUR Our Old Town Walking Tour leads you around the oldest part of the city, showing you its most important and interesting points, beginning and ending near Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square) - the traditional entrance to the district. The prescribed route covers only about 1.5km. If you’re only interested in the exercise, it could take less than 30mins, but ‘if done correctly’ - that is, with a couple of short culture, food and coffee/beer breaks - we reckon it will take at most several hours to complete. Make sure you’ve got a full charge on your phone/camera, comfy shoes and off you go.

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The famous column here honours the man who, in 1596, moved the Polish capital from Kraków to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa. It is 22 metres tall, and was erected in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing, the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly, Sigismund survived and was returned to his new perch in 1949. The remains of the original column can be seen nearby beside the Royal Castle.

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Most visits to the Old Town begin on Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square), the busy plaza where Warsaw’s medieval centre (to the north), meets the thoroughfare of its Royal Route (to the south), in the shadow of the Royal Castle. More of a triangle than a square, there isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city, with the steps of King Sigismund’s Column typically besieged by couples, schoolkids and skateboarders. A lot happens here, whether it’s political demonstrations, street performers, or the steady flow of locals and tourists out for a stroll.

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Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour

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The ‘Grand Apartment’ of the Royal Castle.

Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing

The courtyard of the joint Branicki-Szaniawski Palace complex. Photo by Projekt MIEJSCA.

Royal Castle

The pride of Warsaw, this palace was reconstructed at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by communist-era cohorts such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money came via generous donations from exiled Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the residence of Polish kings, presidents and the seat of Parliament. Some of the halls are purported to be haunted by a ‘white lady,’ whose ghostly appearance portends disaster. Those who plonk down for admission (50zł/40zł) will have plenty to see, including the Kings’ apartments and chambers, the Houses of Parliament and the opulent Great Assembly Hall. Additional tickets are required for the Gallery of Masterpieces (40/30zł) and the apartments of Prince Józef Poniatowski - aka the ‘Tin-Roofed Palace’ (open Wed, Sat, Sun only, 10:0017:00; 30/20zł). Luckily for families, children under 7 get in for free, while those 7-16 years old only have to pay 1zł! This one is well-worth a visit, especially if you love the opulence and grandeur of royalty! Visiting time: 2hrs.QG‑4, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 50/40zł. Kids & students with valid ID, 1zł for each exhibit; Wed free for all exhibits. U 38

Branicki & Szaniawski Palaces

The neighbouring Branicki and Szaniawski Palaces are two stunning noble residences from the last century of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. The Szaniawski Palace at ul. Miodowa 8, named after the first noble family residents, was built at the beginning of the 18th century, and was later the residence of the famed Ostrowski family. It was first reworked into its current classical style in 1812. Branicki Palace at number 6 came later in 1740, and aimed to capture the magic of French rococo architecture, in addition to having a horseshoeshaped layout with stunning façades and rooftop windows. When Count Jan Klemens Branicki died in 1771, the estate was inherited by his wife, Izabella Poniatowska, the sister of King Stanisław August Poniatowski and an influential figure of the Enlightenment era in Poland. The palace was a congregation point for many Enlightenmentera creatives of whom Izabella was a patron. Both palaces were destroyed in WWII and reconstructed using Renaissance-era paintings as a reference. These romantic buildings from ‘straight out of a painting’ were brought together in 2022, when the Marriott’s Autograph Collection opened their first Polish property here as the Hotel Verte. This exquisite 5-star accommodation option also features KUK Restaurant by Maciej Majewski (p.90).QF‑4, ul. Miodowa 6-8.

Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour 4

Jan Kiliński Monument

This huge monument honours Jan Kiliński, a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence - an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment in St. Petersburg. Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally located on Plac Krasińskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful place, before being relocated here in 1959. Kiliński’s comrade and superior Tadeusz Kościuszko himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5; this wide street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the narrow street running at a 90-degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages.QF‑4, ul. Podwale. 5

Old Town Defensive Ramparts

The first sections of Warsaw’s defensive walls date back to the late 13th century, and by the end of the 14th century they stretched 1,200 meters, enclosing an area of about 8.5ha, and included 8 towers and 4 city gates. The most famous of these now nonexistent structures was the Kraków Gate on Plac Zamkowy, and the Marshall’s Tower - the highest point in the defensive structures - near the corner of ul. Krzywe Koło and ul. Brzozowa. Already in the 15th century these defenses were deemed insufficient and a second, lower line of brick walls was built along today’s ul. Podwale at a distance of just 9-14m from the previous walls; a moat was dug in-between and the Barbican was built in 1548 as the final piece of the defenses. As Varsovians were already settling in numbers beyond the city walls, these fortifications quickly became obsolete and from the 17th century they were being demolished or incorporated into tenement buildings. Ironically it was the total destruction of the Old Town that allowed these walls to be rebuilt after WWII and today the space between the two historical brick ramparts forms a pedestrian promenade parallel to ul. Podwale known as ‘Międzymurzę.’ Along this pleasant route you’ll find many historical plaques and monuments, as well as plenty of photo opportunities with the backdrop of the city and the Old Town!.QF‑4, Międzymurzę Jana Zachwatowicza.

restaurant

Polish cuisine with a modern twist located in the old town Miodowa 6/8 Street +48 511 464 645 hotelverte.com/kuk

Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing

The Barbican looks beautiful dusted in snow. 6

The Little Insurgent Monument

The communist authorities continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, though by the early 1980s cracks in their resolve were beginning to show, and this smallbut-poignant monument made its debut in 1983. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by collections undertaken by scouts, the sculpture commemorates the children who had to grow up fast, serving as messengers and frontline troops during the Uprising. With its oversized helmet and rifle, the bronze figure was inspired by the story of 13-year-old corporal Antek, himself killed in action near this spot on August 8, 1944.QF‑4, ul. Podwale.

Crossroads! Continue along the Old Town defensive walls to the Barbican, and on to the Old Town Square? Or, duck out of the medieval walls and down ul. Kilińskiego, hanging a left on ul. Długa for a short <20min/1.5km walk to the POLIN Museum (D-4, p.73) via the imposing Warsaw Uprising Monument and lovely Krasiński Palace and Gardens (E-4)? 40

Warsaw Barbican

Crowning the medieval defensive walls which once protected the northern entrance to the city, this fearsome rotund structure dates from 1548, and was built by architect Giovanni Battista Venetian on the site of an earlier city gate. Despite its intended use, the Barbican was only ever used in one fighting action when in 1656, during the Swedish deluge, Polish troops attacked to retake the city. In the 18th century, the Barbican was partially demolished and incorporated into new apartment buildings. As part of the Old Town’s reconstruction after WWII, the Barbican was restored. Today it serves as a bridge between the Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenage drinkers, buskers and artists selling their wares.QF‑3/4.

Crossroads! Stay on target with a stroll through the Barbican towards the Old Town Square? Or take a detour down charming pedestrian thoroughfare ul. Freta, past the Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum (p.69), en route to the New Town Square (350m away)?

Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour 8

Old Town Square

Measuring 90 by 73 metres, the Old Town Square is prewar Warsaw’s defining highlight, lined with richly decorated tenements - keep an eye out for the ‘House Under the Lion,’ with frescos by Zofia Stryjeńska (our Polish artistic crush - look up her work) at the southwest corner leading onto ul. Świetojańska. Today the buildings around the Rynek host numerous cafes, restos, shops and museums Museum of Warsaw occupies the entire northern side of the square, World of Illusion (p.76) can be found at number 21, and number 27 is home to Warsaw’s oldest, most prestigious restaurant, U Fukiera (p.93).

Old Town Museums When it was rebuilt in the postwar years, Warsaw implemented a vision of its resurrected Old Town as a place of culture. Today it harbours a remarkable number of museums, so instead of just staggering around, gawking at the architecture - go inside and learn something. The two largest, most significant and most worth-visiting museums (in our opinion) are the Royal Castle (p.38) - where you’ll get a feel for the city’s lost grandeur, and the Museum of Warsaw, where you’ll learn its history. Depending on your interests, however, you may be interested in one of these smaller, more niche museums nearby.

During the 15th century the square was home to Warsaw’s Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Today, it features Warsaw’s best-loved monument and the city’s defining symbol - Syrenka, aka the Warsaw Mermaid. Cast in 1855, this busty vixen’s form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in the capital.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta.

Archdiocese Museum: Displaying both the sacred and profane, this surprising and underrated art museum has several creepy Beksiński paintings.Qul. Dziekania 1. The mermaid statue in the Old Town Square. 9

Museum of Warsaw, Main Branch

Found inside 11 conjoined historical tenements on the Old Town Square, this revamped museum’s permanent exhibit, ‘The Things of Warsaw,’ presents the city’s cultural history via 7,000 objects displayed over 21 thematic rooms. Included are portraits, postcards, souvenirs, and other items with representations of the Polish capital, all of which contribute to a better understanding of the events that have shaped the Warsaw we know today. The history of the buildings themselves, which retain many original elements, is also presented, and there’s a bookstore, cafe and fabulous viewpoint overlooking the Old Town Square. Visiting time: 2-3hrs.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, www. muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00-17:00; Thu 9:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 35/25zł; permanent exhibit only 25/18zł; temp. exhibit only 20/15zł; Thu free. U6

Museum of Dollhouses: Over 150 highly detailed historical dollhouses, plus various other minature settings, and antiquated toys. A good option for children!Qul. Podwale 15.

Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre: Go into these cellars for a deep dive on how Warsaw's Old Town went from ruin to the UNESCO List. Qul. Brzozowa 11/13.

Pharmacy Museum: Travel back in time to a charmingly antiquated interwar ‘apteka.’ Nominated for ‘European Museum of the Year 2022.’ .Qul. Piwna 31/33.

World of Illusion: More attraction than museum, but a nice reward for the kids, the exhibits will fool your eyes and you’ll go home with lots of fun photos. More on p.76.QRynek Starego Miasta 21. 41

Old Town Walking Tour | Sightseeing

The blue archway on ul. Dawna is a favourite of both locals and tourists!

Eat & Drink Warsaw’s Old Town is full of restaurants and bars, but, as this is literally the most touristy part of the city, the quality varies. When it’s time to take a break, here are a few places that are worth the money and worth seeking out.

U Fukiera: Adhering to tradition with extravagant flair, this famous restaurant on the Old Town Square offers an exceptional dining experience.Qp.93.

KUK Restaurant by Maciej Majewski: Located in an 18th-century palace, discover KUK’s creative approach to haute Polish cuisine, with ‘neobistro’ styling and locally sourced seasonal products.Qp.90.

Ciao Napoli: Authentic Neapolitan pizza (the best in town?), fresh seafood and happy hour specials make this affordable franchise deservedly popular.Qp.85.

U Barssa: This classy restaurant brings a refreshing refinement to the Market Square with traditional Polish cuisine. Try their signature ‘Duck a la Barssa’.Qp.89.

Bar and Books: Open after 17::00, this sophisticated, dimly-lit cocktail and whiskey bar occasionally hosts live music on weekends.Qul. Wąski Dunaj 20. 42

10 Gnojna Góra

Demonstrating how every word sounds exotic when you don’t know the language, Gnojna Góra may sound like another charming stop on your tour. And it is for the views over the Vistula River, but not for the name, which literally translates as Shit Hill (Dung Hill, if you wish to be more polite). For centuries, this was the dumping ground for all of the Old Town’s waste. As you can imagine, it grew over time and the distinctive shape can best be seen from the bottom. At one stage it was actually renowned for its healing properties - people with obscene amounts of money would come here to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis (doesn’t work, it turns out). From here head back towards the centre via ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city, then swerve onto ul. Kanonia.QG‑4, ul. Brzozowa. 11 Ul. Kanonia

Once the site of the oldest cemetery in Warsaw, Kanonia Street takes the shape of a small square, at the centre of which is a cracked cathedral bell dating back to 1646. Cast by artisan Daniel Tym (who also made the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column), the bell never actually rang at St. John’s Cathedral next to it, but it has developed its own legend: touch the top of the bell while walking its circumference and your wish will come true. Across from the bell is one of the world’s most narrow houses at number 20/22. Only 2m across, it was designed to evade property taxes, which in the 18th century (when it was built) were calculated

Sightseeing | Old Town Walking Tour based on the width of the facade facing the main street. Also note the covered walkway nearby, which links the Cathedral to the Royal Castle and was built after a failed assassination attempt on Sigismund III. The attacker, who succeeded in striking the King twice with a pickaxe before being overpowered, was subsequently dealt with using the most medieval means imaginable: stretched by four horses, he was quartered with an axe; his body was then burned, and the ashes fired from a musket so as to disperse them in the air. This was all done in public, of course, at the city’s execution place, a few blocks away at the end of ul. Piekaska.QG‑4, ul. Kanonia.

Ul. Kanonia Wishing Bell.

Juan Antonio F. Segal, CC BY 2.0

12 St. John the Baptist Cathedral

Originally built in the 14th century, St John’s is steeped in history. The last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was crowned and buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the May 3rd Constitution inside the building. The bodies of Henryk Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Poland’s 1st president) and various Mazovian knights can be seen in the crypt (open Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 15:00-17:00, closed during mass; admission 5/3zł). As with most major landmarks, it was left in a heap of ruins during the Warsaw Uprising, before being rebuilt in pseudo-gothic style. On the external wall by the main entrance are fragments of a Borgward IV - a remote-controlled demolition vehicle used by the German army.QF/G‑4, ul. Świętojańska 8, www.katedra.mkw.pl. Open 06:00-20:00; Sun 07:0022:00.

Choose Your Adventure! Circling back to Plac Zamkowy you can either carry on down the Royal Route (turn the page), or circle round the back of the Royal Castle for a walk through the free gardens and down along the riverbank towards Powiśle (p.50). 43

The Royal Route Around Christmas, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście becomes a light-filled wonder.

Warsaw’s famed ‘Royal Route’ links the city’s three Royal residences, starting from the Royal Castle (p.38) on Plac Zamkowy, via Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Isle (p.56), en route to Wilanów Palace (p.58) in the district of the same name. Officially covering 11km in length, this main artery through the city takes in a great many of Warsaw’s historical buildings, parks and monuments along the way, making a trip down at least part of the ‘path of the kings’ - be it on foot, by bike, or motorised scooter - a fine opportunity to see the heart and soul of the capital. 1 St. Anne’s Church & Tower

WALKING TOUR In lieu of the full 11km traverse, this walking tour picks up at the end of the Old Town Walking Tour (p.36) on Plac Zamkowy and guides you gently down Warsaw’s two main high streets - ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście and ul. Nowy Świat - to the ironic/ iconic Palm Tree fittingly at the intersection of Al. Jerozolimskie (Jerusalem Street). An easy 2km/20mins on foot, along the way or very nearby you’ll find many wonderful restaurants, cafes, bars and shops, so use the rest of our guide to plan your pit stops. In the ‘Choose Your Adventure’ box at the end of the tour (p.43), you’ll find info on how to continue on the Royal Route to Łazienki and Wilanów (while resting your feet) should you choose to, or advice on how to veer off towards other interests. 44

St. Anne’s survived the war with a few scratches and a bombed-out roof, but what the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished in 1949 when the careless construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel led to landslides and huge cracks in the floor of the church, which threatened to collapse; it took 400 people two weeks to stabilise the foundations. Interestingly, St. Anne’s also found disaster in the 17th century, when it survived the Swedish Deluge only to be the victim of arson two years later. The classical façade dates from 1788 and the interior holds even more classical and rococo details. The real reason to visit, however, are the splendid views from the tower - worth the 147-step climb (open weekdays 10:00-18:00; Sat 11:00 am - by arrangement; 10/7zł. Call +48 22 374 94 84).QG‑4, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 91, www.swanna.waw.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00.

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This monument was first unveiled in 1898 on the 100th anniversary of Mickiewicz’s birth. Sculpted by Cyprian Godebski, the monument was destroyed by the Nazis, however, after WWII, Polish soldiers recovered Mickiewicz’s head and other demolished parts in Hamburg. Sculptor Jan Szczepkowski was able to produce a copy of the original sculpture, which was unveiled, along with its restored surroundings, in 1950.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 21-23, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

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Born to an upper class Polish family in what is today Belarus, Mickiewicz attended university in Vilnius, where he began publishing his poems and became involved in political activities against imperial Russia, which now occupied the former territory of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. These activities saw him exiled to Russia in 1824, but Mickiewicz was able to leverage connections he made in the salons of Moscow and St. Petersburg to escape to the west in 1830, eventually settling in Paris. A champion of freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak in Turkey, while recruiting a Polish legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea in 1855. His body today lies with those of the Polish kings in Kraków’s Wawel Cathedral. To learn more, visit the Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature on the Old Town Square (F-4).

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The Royal Route | Sightseeing 3

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Krakowskie Przedmieście is easily one of Poland’s most prestigious and well-known streets - the price tag of the rents matches the prestige! The street stretches from the Royal Castle in the Old Town (p.36) until it blends into ul. Nowy Świat. It is along the length of this street, and beyond, that you will easily find our list of things to see along the way - it’s almost impossible to get lost! As you walk along the route, be sure to stop at any of the 15 Chopin Benches. Designed by Professor Jerzy Porębski, they feature a button, when pressed, unleash a 30 second torrent of Chopin. Each bench contains descriptions in EN/PL to the site’s relevance to the composer. QG‑4, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet. 4

Presidential Palace

Guarded by lions and stern-looking soldiers, of all the landmarks that line Krakowskie Przedmieście, none is more important than the Presidential Palace. Construction began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It then passed into the hands of various aristocratic families, becoming famed for its banquets in the 18th century - the most extravagant of which marked the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789; over 2 million PLN was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests. Poniatowski proved to be one of the nation’s most controversial monarchs - and also its last. Among his successes was the Constitution of May 3, 1791. Signed on these very grounds, it was the 2nd such document in the world, after the US Constitution. The large monument in front of the Palace is of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski. A Polish general, he defended Warsaw during the Kościuszko Uprising and eventually died in the service of Napoleon. After 1818 the Palace became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, entertaining many a visiting Tsar before burning down in 1852. At the beginning of the 20th century an entire wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918, the Palace was commandeered to serve as home for the Prime Minister, and somehow it survived WWII. More momentous events came in 1955 when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO - was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as the official home of the Polish president, which is why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out. QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet. 46

The Bristol Luxury Hotel.

Bristol & Europejski Hotels

Two of the biggest, most famous landmarks on prestigious ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście are former palaces turned luxury hotels today. The first is Hotel Bristol at number 42/44. First built in 1900, a brass plaque outside boasts of its many famous guests: Picasso, Nixon and Dietrich, to name a few. In 1993 it was restored to its pre-war glory and the re-opening ceremony was such a big deal, it was attended by Ms. Margaret Thatcher. Refreshed repeatedly since, it is certainly among the very top hotels in the capital, boasting an interior by world-renowned designer Anita Rosato that blends secessionist and art deco glamour with modern luxury. If you can’t afford to spend the night, you can still drop in to the wonderfully old school Cafe Bristol - a perfect place for coffee or breakfast. Across the street is the revamped Raffles Hotel Europejski (no. 13). The first hotel to re-open after WWII, it entered Varsovian folklore in 1967 when a group of young upstarts calling themselves ‘the Rolling

Crossroads! Carry on down the Royal Route? Or perhaps hang a right after the Hotel Europejski down ul. Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza towards Plac Piłsudskiego (p.28)? Choose the latter to see Warsaw’s largest square and escape the urban hub-bub via the lovely Saxon Garden, a stroll through which leads you into the City Centre and on a path to Hala Gwardii (E-6) and Hala Mirowska (D-6) - two massive indoor markets 15-20mins on foot from where you’re standing.

Sightseeing | The Royal Route Stones’ stayed here, under the watchful eye of the authorities, and had themselves quite a time tipping back vodkas in the hotel bar. In 2018 the hotel was refurbed for the Raffles brand and today it is a stunning luxury space full of contemporary art and custom furnishings. If you want to have your proverbial socks knocked off, explore the building’s many first-rate dining and drinking venues, including EPOKA restaurant. Though you might not be able to afford anything, you can still wander through Europejski Boutiques - the most exclusive shopping experience in the country. QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, 13. 6

Chopin Benches

The good city of Warsaw has devised one more way to bring Chopin to the people, and that’s by way of fifteen musical benches that have been placed at key sites connected with his life since 2019. Made of cast iron and polished black granite, these benches, designed by Professor Jerzy Porębski, feature a button which when pressed unleash a thirty second torrent of Chopin. They also come equipped with a route map as well as brief explanations in Polish and English as to the site’s relevance to Chopin. However, that’s not all. These benches see Chopin go techno: each one comes inscribed with a QR code – scan it and download the Chopin App to access audioguides, Chopin melodies, facts, figures and photographs. This is, at the very least, a fun little trick to show your friends as you sit down for a muchneeded rest while exploring the Old Town and Royal Route!QG‑6, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, www.biuro. chopin2010.pl. 7

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The University of Warsaw

Carry on further and you’re in Warsaw Universityland, the main campus of which lies beyond the grand gateway of number 26/28. Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as ‘Villa Regia,’ was remodelled and renovated several times before Warsaw Uni was established here in 1816. The university had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in retaliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the uni continued to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar calmed down enough to rubber stamp the creation of a School of Medicine. Today, with some 48,000 students on the roll call, the university stands out as the largest and arguably best in Poland. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning travel writer Ryszard Kapuściński, the late president Lech Kaczyński and the poet Julian Tuwim.QG‑6, Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, www.en.uw.edu.pl.

Join us at our restaurant along the Royal Route. We combine modern design with traditional recipes in a historic setting. Try our handcrafted pierogies and more.

Discover flavor and history in one place! Krakowskie Przedmieście Street 4, Warsaw. Royal Route, right by the Copernicus Monument

The Royal Route | Sightseeing 8

Eat & Drink Syrena Irena: Dive into modern Polish food done well. Order a variety of pierogi and customize your order with exciting toppings in this chic spot. Qp.89.

Specjały Regionalne: Experience some of the best Polish food the capital has to offer, from juicy duck to fluffy dumplings and Polish charcuterie boards, all in a space filled with traditional Polish folk art. This is a must!Qp.88.

Tokyo Sushi: A great pit stop on Nowy Świat, drop in for a great value on their huge menu of sushi rolls, salads, ramen and hot dishes.Qp.81.

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi: Immense portions of traditional Polish fare and charming service. What's not to like?.Qp.86.

Choose Your Adventure! From the Palm Tree, Warsaw’s ‘Royal Route’ continues another 10km before it ultimately ends at Wilanów Palace - the 17th-century residence of King Jan III Sobieski. While a walking tour of the remaining 10km isn’t realistic or especially rewarding, Łazienki (p.54) and Wilanów (p.58) are both required for getting a broader sense of Warsaw’s former glory as the grand capital of a vast and wealthy commonwealth stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea. You can easily get to either from the Foksal 01 bus stop on ul. Nowy Świat. To get to Łazienki Park, hop on bus 116 or 180 and get off three stops later at ‘Łazienki Królewskie.’ For Wilanów, take the same numbers, or catch the direct E-2 bus; get off at ‘Wilanów.’ Use jakdojade.pl for live public transit connections. If your’re not worn out, heading 300m down charming ul. Ordynacka (G-7) leads you direct to the Chopin Museum, where you’ll connect with our Powiśle district tour (p.50). Alternatively, head west down pedestrianised ul. Chmielna - past many a bar and restaurant - to reach the Palace of Culture (p.25) in about 10mins. Of course you can always backtrack to the Metro to make a shortcut to the River Boulevards (p.51) or onward to Praga (p.60). Decisions! 48

Holy Cross Church

No self-respecting Chopin fan (is that you?) can leave Warsaw without first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Smuggled out of Paris in a jar of booze by his sister (true story), Chopin’s heart was brought to the church in accordance with his final wishes in 1882 and is sealed in an urn behind a tablet bearing his likeness, specially carved by Leonardo Marconi. Although Chopin’s ticker serves as the church’s key draw there are several other notable features and funereal remains to tempt you inside this astonishing Baroque creation. These include another urn with the remains of Nobel Prize-winning author Władysław Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons including poet Juliusz Słowacki and WWII hero Władysław Sikorski. The organ, built in Salzburg in 1925, is also the largest in Warsaw. Throughout a history that dates back to the 15th century, Holy Cross Church has played a role in Warsaw’s glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944, the church was painstakingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the heart, eyes and soul, filled with elaborate decorative details that make dropping inside worthwhile. QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl/. Open 10:00-11:30, 13:00-16:00; Sun 14:00-16:00. 9

Nicolaus Copernicus Monument

The founder of modern astronomy. A sheltered academic, Copernicus made his observations alone, a century before the invention of the telescope. His book De Revolutionibus (1543) posited that the earth rotated on its axis once a day, travelled around the sun once a year, and that man’s place in the cosmos was peripheral. Though obvious today, this was an utterly radical idea at the time. Although those who propagated his ideas were burned at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no turning back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy. The statue itself was unveiled in 1830 and has seen its share of adventure. During WWII the Nazis placed a new plaque here insinuating that the great man was in fact gasp! - a German. A boy scout named Alek Dawidowski

Sightseeing | The Royal Route ducked the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis removed the monument, then dynamited a few others for good measure. The statue was recovered after the war, and Dawidowski entered Polish folklore for his bravery.QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet. 10 ul. Nowy Świat

The name of this street means “New World” and it is an apt description; just south of ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, Nowy Swiat has a similar look to the Old Town but instead of museums and history, you’ll find food, beer, live music and a street constantly bursting at the seams with life. Like much of the Old Town, Nowy Swiat was also razed during WWII, but was rebuilt almost immediately following in a neo-classical style, rather than its pre-war Art Nouveau style. Legend (and history) goes that this street was rebuilt based partly on paintings of its pre-war ancestor. Now, you can admire the architecture as you make your way south down the street (which becomes a pedestrian walkway on the weekends). Make sure to stop by Karmello for some chocolate nosh and coffee, or Oto! Sushi for some seriously delicious (and fresh!) California rolls. If it’s nightlife you’re after, there’s plenty of bars: Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whiskey (open until 5 a.m. Wed-Sat) will serve all the bright colored drinks you want; across the street, Kufle I Kapsle has a craft beer menu that will make even the snobbiest beer snob happy. We could go on, but there is a lot in the way of eating and drinking and fun. Finish your journey by taking in the towering palm tree at the intersection between Nowy Świat and Al. Jerozolimskie, an art installation that’s a beloved little touch of the tropics in the middle of town. QH‑8 11 The Palm Tree (Palma)

Wondering what a giant palm tree is doing in the middle of this roundabout? Modern art, my friends. In this case, a project called ‘Greetings from Jerusalem’ by Polish artist Joanna Rajkowska, who, during a trip to Israel, was struck by the brainwave of sticking a palm tree in the Polish capital to give it some sunny cheer (in the most ironic way possible). The palm tree is actually a steel column specially designed to bend in the wind, covered with natural bark and leaves made from polyethylene. Quite popular, the permanent installation reminds us of all the beautiful and exotic places we could be instead. Take a few photos and - if you get a chance - ask locals what they think of the sculpture. It's certainly striking and a hell of a talking point.QG‑8, Rondo de Gaulle’a, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet. 49

Powiśle: Warsaw’s Riverside District The Chopin Museum in Powiśle is a beautiful respite from the cold.

Once a mundane area of apartment blocks and industrial decay, over the past two decades Powiśle has transformed into one of Warsaw’s most intriguing and eclectic areas to explore. Considering its plum location along the riverside, it’s hard to believe that this large neighbourhood was essentially a cultural dead zone until skyrocketing rent costs in the City Centre forced Warsaw’s students, artists, activists and small business owners to reconsider its potential. Warsaw University was the first to pitch a tent in the area, creating a real draw since 2002 with their lovely Library Rooftop Gardens (open from April until end of October), and the adjacent opening of the prestigious Copernicus Science Centre in 2009 invited further cultural investments (like the Museum of Modern Art), while also creating strong impetus for the city to connect the area via Metro (2015) and finally clean up and modernise the left bank river boulevards into a popular place for public recreation (completed in 2017). The massive redevelopment of the former Elektrownia Powiśle power plant into a space for events, dining and shopping (opened in 2020) typifies the high-powered investment taking place here today, but despite increasing gentrification, Powiśle still maintains an authentic local vibe thanks to its balance of both trendsetting gastro spots and boho dives (like the iconic Warszawa Powiśle bar). Roll yourself downhill towards the river from Warsaw’s Old Town or City Centre to discover what’s good in this hood! 50

What to See 1

Fryderyk Chopin Museum

Warsaw’s Chopin Museum is touted as one of the most high-tech in Europe. Three floors of interactive exhibits cover the composer’s life in every aspect, including a recreation of his Paris drawing room, the last letter he wrote to his family, his death mask, and even an intriguing section on his social circle. In addition, there are dozens of touchscreens, audio-visuals, and musical games, making the museum a highly interactive experience that will keep visitors of all ages engaged. Thirty-minute live concerts take place every Sat and Sun at 12:00, 15:00 and 17:00 (available to all museum visitors). Visitor numbers are restricted, so we suggest reserving tickets online in advance. Located in the famous Ostrogski Palace, the building’s catacombs are said to be home to the legendary Golden Duck - a princess charmed by the Devil before being transformed. Visiting time: 1hr.QH‑7, ul. Okólnik 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, www.muzeum.nifc.pl/pl/muzeum/ wizyta-informacje. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 25/15zł. U

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Feisty, beautiful and busty, Warsaw’s ‘Syrenka’ - the iconic freshwater warrior mermaid - has been representing the Polish capital since time immemorial. The monument here is the secondChopin most famous statue of the city’s symbol (the first Point being on the Old Town Square, (p.41), though this one actually overlooks the river the mythical icon is alleged to have dwelled in. 2.75 metres tall, the bronze monument was created by sculptor Ludwika Nitschowa and unveiled in June 1939, just months before the outbreak of WWII; remarkably it stood unscathed in this exact spot throughout Karowa the entire war while the rest of Warsaw’s left bank was devastated.QI‑6, Bulwar Bohdana GrzymałySiedleckiego (near Most Świętokrzyski), MCentrum Nauki Kopernik.

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Warsaw has modernised and improved its left Obo 5 Copernicus Leszczyńska źna bank dramatically in the last decade. The Powiśle Science Centre boulevards flanking the Świętokrzyski Bridge 4 3 and leading north to the Old Town have seen Drewniana Elektrownia rzyski więtok Bar Powiśle the most development and are now not only a Barceló Most Ś tosz ew 2 i popular thoroughfare for walking, running, cycling Zajęcza M2 and skating, but also brimming with bars, cafes and Chopin Centrum Nauki Kopernik Museum restaurants - particularly in the warmer months a Ord-yna Tamk cka 1 Tamka POWIŚLE plus parks and leisure spaces. The area just north of Chopin the bridge has also become a cultural corridor and Mural tourist lure thanks to a clutch of top attractions: the Szczygla Ateneum Copernicus Science Centre, Museum on the Vistula and the University Library Gardens (open April Fto cza a oksal r Zamoyski Ja Karol Palace October), as well as the Multimedia Fountain Park Beyer Park further north (F-3). It’s fair to say that Warsaw’s river Warszawa boulevards are now among the best in Europe and Smolas Powiśle na endemic to the identity and character of the capital AL. JEROZOLI as those in London or Paris, so don’t miss having a MSKIE Al. 3 Maja stroll along the water while in town.QI‑6, Generała Polish Army Museum George’a Smitha Pattona, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik.National zna tryc Elek

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Aerial view of the Vistula Boulevards on Powiśle’s waterfront. Photo by Łukasz Szczepański / AdobeStock.

Powiśle | Sightseeing

Eat & Drink When it’s time for a rest or a feed, there are many worthy venues on and around ul. Solec - one of the main streets in the area, as well as numerous food trucks and barges moored up along the river. Also, Elektrownia Powiśle has an entire food hall inside, so your options are manifold. Here are a few other notable venues in the neighbourhood:

Prime Cut: True culinary innovation, with a unique fusion of New York classics and European flair and a passion for dishes that boast the finest quality ingredients that ensure every bite is a testament to good taste. In Elektrownia . See p.91 Q ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 43B

LAS: Lush but refined, this ‘forest’ uses local, seasonal ingredients to create contemporary incarnations of Polish classics, plus unusual cocktails.QI-7, ul. Solec 44.

Tres Toros: Affectionately known as 'Little Spain', Tres Toros brings you into the vibrant world of classic Iberian cuisine, its flavours and colours. Located in Elektrownia (H-6). Qul. Dobra 42

Va Bene: This hip pizza spot serves “Romanstyle pizza” (aka crispy crust, cut with scissors) in a variety of delicious flavors. Plus, cocktails, wine and beer. Arrive early because spots fill up quickly on the weekends!Q(H-6) Tamka 9

Kawiarnia Kafka: For the hipster in all of us! This spot has books, music, good vibes and even better food and coffee. Perfect for a brunch or just a mid-roaming break.Q(H-6) ul. Oboźna 3

Elektrownia Powiśle

Once one of the largest electrical power plants in Europe, Elektrownia Powiśle powered the Polish capital from 1904 to 2001 before it was closed and left to crumble. Purchased by a developer in 2016, it was only a matter of time before the historic industrial site was transformed into a multifunctional, mixed-use urban centre. Covering a massive 50,000m2, much of the site has been converted into offices, apartments and a hotel, but a remaining 15,000m2 in the former boiler and engine buildings comprises commercial space for retail, gastronomy and wellness. In keeping with current revitalisation trends, the postindustrial plot deftly mixes original architecture and design details with modern trends and convenience, including glass exterior elevators, 30m chimneys and original switchboards. Reopened in 2020, today Elektrownia offers four levels of shopping, 19 sit-down restaurants across the complex, plus their Food Hall (p.94) with an additional 22 international food concepts and 5 bars. Additionally, there is a 1500m2 Beauty Hall offering over 450 cosmetic treatments from 8 beauty & wellness centers. Events are frequently hosted in the courtyards between the buildings, including a regular farmer’s market, yoga lessons and film screenings, and there’s also a multimedia fountain. Whatever your proclivity, there are plenty of reasons to check out one of Warsaw’s most exciting and successful urban renewal projects.QH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Open 11:00-21:00. Food Hall open 12:00-23:00, Fri 12:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-22:00. TU6K

Elektrownia's food hall is a banquet of smells and tastes - from all over the world!

Sightseeing | Powiśle 5

Copernicus Science Centre

An example of EU funding being used in a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is the very best science centre in Europe, and one of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions. Not only will you learn an awful lot, but you’ll have a blast doing so. The fun starts as soon as you encounter the museum’s very own ‘Robothespian’ - an interactive humanoid robot - at the front doors, before exploring several hundred hands-on exhibits across two floors that will have you actively pressing buttons, answering quizzes, and even exerting yourself physically. In addition to temporary exhibits and the all-ages ‘Experiment Zone,’ there are zones specially designed for the youngest visitors up to teens and adults. Don’t miss the Planetarium (separate opening hours and ticket). Visiting time: 3-4hrs.QI‑6, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl. Open 09:0018:00; Fri 09:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-19:00. Closed 1st Mon of every month. Planetarium open based on first show. Check times on website https://www.kopernik. org.pl/en/planetarium. Roof garden Nov-April closed. Admission 40/28zł; holidays & weekends 42/29zł; planetarium 28/20zł. U 6

Planetarium of the Copernicus Science Center

A trip to outer space is made simple at the Planetarium of the Copernicus Science Centre, which is tucked behind the giant Copernicus Science Centre (above) as its own distinct venue. Visitors can choose different 40-minute films (which require headsets for English and Russian) that are geared towards different age ranges and interests. Inside, the audience is immersed in the solar system thanks to a spherical screen that surrounds the 139 seats on all sides. Four digital projectors display images of the starry sky and simulate space travel to bring planets and moons into view - the whole experience is visually stunning! We can’t stress enough that booking in advance is highly recommended, largely because the weekdays see a lot of school groups (for

Choose Your Adventure! From Powiśle it’s exceedingly easy to get to Praga (p.60) or the City Centre (p.26) via the handy riverside ‘Centrum Nauki Kopernik’ M2 Metro station. Alternatively, walk north along the river to return to the Old Town (p.36) or check out New Town’s Multimedia Fountain (F-3), which is a popular attraction for young families; both are about 2km/20mins on foot.

The star of the robot theater at Copernicus Science Center.

Photo courtesy of museum.

good reason!) A visit to the planetarium is a sensory experience, one which he wholly recommend you try out. QH‑5, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.artmuseum.pl. Open 9:00-18:30; Mon 9:00-15:30; Thu 9:00-20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-19:30. Admission 28/20zł. 7

Mariensztat

Cut off from the rest of the Old Town by the intersecting Trasa W-Z, the Mariensztat area - the northern-most part of Powiśle, has its origins in the 18th century when nobleman Eustachy Potocki married Maria Kątska and received the land as part of Maria’s dowry. The area was built in 1762 and named after his wife, with the latter part of the name ‘stadt’ (changed to ‘sztat’ after World War II) being added to appease the Saxon king of Poland at the time, King Augustus III. Completely destroyed during the Warsaw Uprising, it was rebuilt after the war using a totally different street plan; the architectural design aimed to evoke a look mixed between 18th century buildings in the Praga district while also incorporating a socialist realist element. Unveiled in 1949, it was the first housing complex to be completed in post-war Warsaw. Lying between ul. Bednarska and ul. Dobra, the picturesque neighbourhood is full of small parks and winding streets and provides a leafy retreat from the crowds just a short distance away from the heart of the Old Town. Fun fact: In previous centuries, Mariensztat was notorious for its bordellos, bare-knuckle boxing matches, and a bustling market QG‑4/5, ul. Mariensztat, MRatusz Arsenał. 53

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Sightseeing | Łazienki Park This glorious 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of Warsaw’s unparalleled highlights, adored year-round by locals and visitors alike. Although it seems as if half of Warsaw spends its fall Sundays here, the park is so vast that it never feels crowded and offers an enchanting opportunity to escape the capital’s modern-day gloom and get lost in its nostalgic past. Don’t mistake Łazienki for a simple city park; it is also a museum complex full of wonderful art and architecture. Don’t miss it.

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The full/proper name of today’s park is ‘Łazienki Królewskie,’ which means ‘Royal Baths’ and is derived from the park’s centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace on the Island. The palace was originally built in the 17th century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski, owner of the nearby Ujazdowski Castle and much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private residence (thus taking the name Palace on the Island). It was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as a private garden. Perfect for romantic strolls, family picnics and cultural outings, today the park is packed with gorgeous sculptures and monuments, palatial architecture and priceless art, lovely landscapes of bridges and ponds, plus cafes, restaurants and more. With so much to see and explore, don’t be surprised to find yourself spending most of a day here.

Tickets & Info While the park is free to explore, Łazienki’s indoor exhibits require a paid ticket. There are two ticket options:

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Belvedere Palace The Belvedere Palace was the residence of Polish presidents from 1918 to 1995 and then once again during the presidency of Bronisław Komorowski from 2010-2015 (Presidents Aleksander Kwaśniewski, Lech Kaczyński and current president Andrzej Duda opted to live in the Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście (p.46). Built in 1694 and thoroughly remodelled in 1818, the building is essentially offlimits to visitors, but an eyeful to behold. A wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns, the best views and photo ops are fetched from outside the park on Al. Ujazdowskie. QH‑12, ul. Belwederska 56.

Chopin Monument Don’t miss this famous art nouveau sculpture of Warsaw’s favourite son, Fryderyk Chopin. Depicting the composer right here in Łazienki beneath a willow tree, the acclaimed work by Wacław Szymankowski was erected in 1926. As part of the Nazi campaign against Polish culture it was dynamited by the Germans on May 31, 1940; as the story goes, the following day an unknown patriot placed a placard on the wreckage declaring: ‘I don’t know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t play the funeral march for your leader.’ An original plaster-cast allowed the statue to be revived and this reconstruction was unveiled in 1958.QH‑12.

Ticket 1: includes Palace on the Island, the Old Orangery, Myślewicki Palace, White Pavilion, and Water Tower. (the latter two are closed from October to May) 40/20zł, kids & students 1zł. Ticket 2: same as Ticket 1, plus the Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship. 50/25zł, kids & students 1zł.

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Buy tickets from cash desks or machines at the Old Orangery or Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship. All exhibits have the same hours.QH‑12, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 50 60 024, www. lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Park open 06:00-22:00. Indoor attractions open Sun,Tues & Wed 10:0016:00; Thurs & Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 12:00-18:00; closed Mon.

Łazienki’s iconic Chopin monument.

Photo by Marcin Chodorowski.

Łazienki Park | Sightseeing

Getting There Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three main entrances on ‘Al. Ujazdowskie’, including numbers 116 (from Old Town/Nowy Świat) and 180 (from Al. Jerozolimskie, bus stop ‘PKP Powiązki’); get off at the ‘Łazienki Królewskie’ bus stop. Accurate times and routes can be checked online at warsaw.jakdojade.pl.

Old Orangery A good place to start a visit to Łazienki, the Old Orangery is one of two ticket offices and tourist info point in the park. Originally erected in 1785-88 to house exotic trees through the once-harsh Polish winter, the sunny structure also harbours King Stanisław August’s Royal Theatre - one of the few surviving 18th century court theatres in Europe. Constructed out of wood and covered in marblised polychromes, the ground floor is rather modest with simple benches on risers, while the upper level features nine boxes - three on each side - with eight female figures gripping candleholders in between. Interestingly, the space above the boxes has been painted to create the illusion of yet another level, complete with an 18th-century court audience. The theatre is still used today to host chamber concerts. The other important aspect of the Old Orangery is the Royal Sculpture Gallery. From the very beginning of his reign, Stanisław August collected hundreds of marble and plaster copies of the most famous sculptures from antiquity. 120 of the most important of these casts are uniquely displayed inside the Orangery, against a painted backdrop by court artist Johann Christian Kamsetzer

The Palace on the Isle looks magical covered in snow.

designed to give the visitor the feeling of a stroll through an alley of statues in an Italian garden. Visiting time: 30mins.QI‑11.

Palace on the Isle The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison d’etre. Originally built as a Baroque bathhouse in 1683, the iconic structure was converted into a Neoclassical residential palace in the late 1700s by King Stanisław August. Located on an island in the middle of a narrow lake, and connected by colonnaded bridges on each side, the façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors and are crowned by a balustrade that bears mythological figures. Today, almost all of the palace can be visited, including the King’s private rooms, which appear in their original context, The main reception room, Solomon’s Hall is decorated in the most extravagant of Baroque styles with a series of paintings depicting the History of Solomon; painted for the King by Marcello Bacciarelli in 1791–93, they depict the Polish monarch himself as the biblical king. A major patron of the arts, in 1793 King Stanisław August converted the palace into the first modern public museum, displaying the most important paintings from his collection of 2,289 works. Today, 140 of these canvases are on display as the Royal Picture Gallery, and arranged as they would have been in the years 1793-1795. Visiting time: 45-60mins.QI‑11.

Myślewicki Palace Built in the 1770s and 80s, this elegant semi-circular palace was originally conceived as King Stanisław

Sightseeing | Łazienki Park

The interior of the Palace on the Isle is a stunning look at royal life.

August’s primary residence, though it gradually shifted to more diplomatic functions, hosting official state soirees and accommodating foreign ministers. Designed in Early Classicist style, the unique recessed entrance is decorated with mythological sculptures. After a thorough renovation, the building again appears very much as it would have in the late 18th century, and a walk through the interiors - replete with original murals, furniture and art - is worth the short amount of time it takes to see them. Visiting time: 30mins.QJ‑11.

Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship Very much as advertised, this museum will appeal to avid hunters and horse lovers, though the latter may have some trouble with all the mounted trophies. If so, you can skip the former Cantonists’ Barracks - built in 1826–1828 and full of hunting arms and taxidermied animals - and head straight to the Kubicki Stables, built 1825–1826 and home to an exhibit of horse-drawn carriages, saddles, harnesses and riding accessories; the Stables also host the Royal Weaving Workshop - featuring 19thcentury Jacquard looms, ornamental fabrics, old fabric patterns and more. Both kids and adults will enjoy this exhibition! Visiting time: 1hr.QJ‑12, ul. Szwoleżerów 9. Admission 16/8zł; kids under 7 free; students under 26, 1zł. Fri free.

Eat & Drink Łazienki has several cafes and restaurants, though most of them are very pricey. Head out of the main gates to Plac Unii Lubelskiej (H-12) for more casual options.

Belvedere: Located in the park’s New Orangery, this is one of Warsaw’s most prestigious restaurants and worth the money, but not for families after a day in the park.QI-12. Być Może: This hip cafe/bistro bakes its own bread, offers all-day breakfast and daily lunch specials, and is perfect whether you’re craving coffee or wine.QH-12, ul. Bagatela 14.

DZiK (Dom Zabawy i Kultury): This old residence offers European cuisine and hosts a wide range of evening events, getting wild on weekends.QI‑13, ul. Belwederska 44 A.

Viet's Baguette: This deli offers 16 varieties of banh mi, known as a 'Vietnamese hoagie.' A great place to stop in before you head to the park. QG/H-12, ul. Puławska 7/9.

Klonn: Centrally located for perfect post-park bites, this stylish parkside resto is worth it for modern cuisine and excellent wine.QH-11, ul. Jazdów 1B. 57

Wilanów

The Wilanów Park, Palace and Gardens are bathed in light shows during the winter. Photo: Mike Mareen

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century 45ha palace and garden complex 10km south of the centre. Essential visiting for anyone wishing to understand the former grandeur of the Polish capital, Wilanów is more than just a palace. As one of the few existing remnants of the era when Poland was a vast kingdom stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea, today it also represents the European splendour and sophistication that was lost and few today associate with Warsaw. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings also represent the height of Polish Baroque and are collectively one of Poland’s greatest cultural treasures. If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend most of a day relaxing and taking in the sites here.

Getting There 10km south of the centre, Wilanów is best reached by bus or taxi, though the latter costs 35-40zł and essentially takes the same amount of time: 25‑35mins. All buses stop directly outside the palace gates at the ‘Wilanów’ stop. From Plac Zamkowy (F-4), Pl. Trzech Krzyży (H-8) or Łazienki Park (H-11) take buses 116 or 180. From Warszawa Centralna train station (E-8) take bus 519. For exact times and routes, check warsaw.jakdojade.pl. 58

What to See Wilanów Park & Gardens The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park developed over the centuries. The park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s. Comprising a two-level Baroque garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscape park and the so-called English-Chinese landscape park, recent revitalisation works and archaeological digs discovered several arctefats, including ceramics dating from the 12th century. Visitors should take note that, from October to the end of February, the gardens become a colourful and festive luminous wonderland during the Royal Garden of LightsQP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow-palac.pl. Open 09:00-15:00. Admission 10/5zł, Thu free (0zł ticket is still required).

Wilanów Palace Museum The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the palace’s interior, comes in two parts. The first is the upstairs Polish Portrait Gallery

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An extraordinary piece of funerary art, befitting two of Poland’s most powerful, wealthy and influential families, this tomb in Wilanów Park was dedicated to Stanisław Kostka Potocki and his wife Aleksandra (nee Lubomirska) Potocka by their son Aleksander. Designed in 1834 by Henryk Marconi and built between 1834-1836 by Jakub Tatarkiewicz and Konstanty Hegl, the mausoleum is made entirely of sandstone. Consisting of a Neo-Gothic canopy with lions holding shields bearing the crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski families in each corner, on the sarcophagus itself are the figures of the deceased, and around the sides symbols of their virtues and interests are displayed. QO‑2, Wilanów Park.

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- comprising room after room of portraits of the rich and the powerful from the 16-19th century. If portraits are your thing you will find this very interesting, though the lack of descriptions is frustrating. Still, we consider it very worth a visit, especially for anyone who loves royal glam. Next you’ll find yourself downstairs in the Wilanów Palace Residence, featuring residential rooms, suits of armour, Etruscan vases, magnificent frescoes and even a private chapel. Most impressive are the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife, while the wings house the apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace. Visit the Wilanów Palace website for info about current temporary exhibits and to buy tickets. Visiting time: 2hrs.QP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow-palac.pl/. Open 10:00–16:00. Last entrance 1hr before closing. From Nov 2nd palace and park open till 15:00. Admission (includes park admission) 35/28zł, kids 7-16 1zł, kids under 7 free; Thu free. U

including adding the marvellous dome. In the surrounding gardens you will find terracotta shrines marking the Stations of the Cross, while the crypt houses the tombs of the Potocki family. The church suffered damage during both world wars and was used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who looted and damaged it. The bells dating from 1723 and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people who hid them; today they are housed in the newly built Third Millennium Tower.QO‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 18, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.pl. Open 08:00-17:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-12:00; Sun 14:00-18:00.

St. Anne’s Church A church has stood on this site since the 14th century, when the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here, followed by a wooden Gothic version in the 16th century that stood throughout Sobieski’s day. In 1772 the new brick Church of St. Anne was founded by Prince August Adam Czartoryski based on a design by Jan Kotelnicki. Czartoryski’s granddaughter, Aleksandra Lubomirska Potocka, decorated the church with art in the period 1799-1831, the most precious of which is the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary in the main altar. From 1857-1870, Aleksandra’s son August and his wife extended the church based on a Neo-Renaissance design by Henri Marconi,

Potocki Mausoleum.

Photo by Fotokon / AdobeStock.

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The Praska Ślizgawka ice rink is open for the season at Centrum Praskie Koneser in Praga.

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Sightseeing | Praga ‘Gritty’ and ‘boho’ are just two of the terms tossed around to describe Praga, Warsaw’s east riverside district. Once disregarded due to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks, today an urban revival makes Praga worth visiting – especially for those looking to get off the tourist trail and see more of the city’s artsy side. The current standard-bearer for cool, folks here prefer their fun improvised and their bars dark. Filled with murals and hip hangouts, you can easily spend a day checking out the vibes of this alternative district across from the Old Town.

Eat & Drink Locals will tell you that the best part of Praga isn’t the sightseeing, but the nightlife. The area’s main attraction is a vodka museum after all. You’ll find plenty of restaurants, cafes and bars in and around Centrum Praskie Koneser, along ul. Ząbkowska and ul. Okrzei. Here are some of the best hangouts in Praga:

L'Osteria Warszawa Koneser: Recently opened and ready to serve delicious, authentic pizzas and pasta in a chic, modern atmosphere. Qp.87.

Getting to Praga The easiest way to get to Praga is to take the M2 Metro to ‘Dworzec Wileński’ (eastbound to ‘Trocka’), and you’ll be in the heart of the district. From Warszawa Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the river to the ‘Park Praski’ stop. If you’re in the Old Town simply walk down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarności and the ‘Stare Miasto’ stop, taking trams 4, 20, 23 and 26 to ‘Park Praski.’ 1

straight to this bar hidden on the 3rd floor of the Vodka Museum to try their delicious alcohol infusions and cocktails, and enjoy beautiful views. Qp.98.

Setki Powodów: There are 100 reasons why you should swing by, including its retro-neon chic, cocktails, a tantalising food menu and a kicking live music roster!Qp.100.

Praga Museum of Warsaw

Located in the oldest surviving residential buildings on Warsaw’s right bank, this modern museum boasts interactive exhibits that tell the story of Praga: its people, history, industry, bazaars and more. The cellars include the Residents’ Stories Archive and two pre-war Jewish prayer rooms with original wall paintings, and there’s even an observation terrace. This is not one of the most well-known museums in Warsaw, but is certainly one of the most interesting. Well worth a visit. Visiting time: 1.5-2hrs.QJ‑3, ul. Targowa 50/52, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 518 34 30, www. muzeumpragi.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Thu 11:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł, permanent exhibit only 15/10zł, temporary exhibits 10/8zł; Thu free. U 2

3/4 Koneser Bar: Skip the museum and head

ul. Ząbkowska

Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated and its artistic vibe more felt than on Ząbkowska. Originally lined with timber frame houses, a fire in 1868 led to their replacement with tall tenements, all but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street so hard that wholesale demolition was seriously considered, but somehow it endured and today many of the buildings have been restored and filled with lively galleries and bars. You’ll know you’ve arrived at Praga’s high street when you discover the explosion of murals and street art near ul. Targowa. Don't forget to take photos!QJ‑3, ul. Ząbkowska, MDworzec Wileński.

Francuska 30: This is the spot to be for a coffee, a glass of wine, and some good eats. Also known as the "umbrella cafe" (you'll see why), this delightful space is all about French food and drink in a casual environment. QL-7, ul. Francuska 30.

Centrum Praskie Koneser

Once the Koneser Vodka Factory (1897-2007), this large industrial site lay mostly derelict before getting a major revamp in recent years and becoming Centrum Praskie Koneser (p.14) Interesting from an architecture and urban renewal standpoint, the complex includes the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Fantastic Art, art galleries and dozens of restaurants, cafes, bars and shops! In the spring and summer there are frequent events, concerts, music, games and more! QK‑2, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, www.koneser.eu. TUoE6 4

Polish Vodka Museum

Set inside a former vodka factory, this multimedia museum is visited with a live tour guide or audio guide. The experience takes you from the origins of vodka to modern production, showing you plenty of paraphernalia and treating you to a tasting of this strong spirit. This is a must for anyone interested in the history of Poland's national drink (and for anyone 61

Praga | Sightseeing

Thrifting Culture Praga is known for many things (arts, restaurants, grit) but locals know that one of its best attributes (and open secrets) is its thrifting culture. The neighborhood is a hotbed of thrift stores, charity shops, and second-hand stores, many of which are located around one street! In fact, it’s such a mecca for thrifting, that many Warszawians will devote entire Saturday mornings to Praga thrift stores, buying everything from clothes to furniture, to dishes, art and more. Here’s our suggested starting route. Get off at the Kijowska tram stop, begin on the south end of Ul. Targowa and work your way north!

Jeila Ciucholand: With two stories and tons of men’s and women’s clothing, this is the perfect starting point. Find staple shirts, skirts, etc for around 10-20 Zł. Plus, some cool home items upstairs!QK-4, ul. Targowa 20B.

Gemma: If there's one thing we can say about this spot, it's that the name is apt! There are many "gems" here, meaning good clothes. It won't break the bank but it won't be cheap either, so come here for key staples that you know will be good quality and last. QK-4, ul. Targowa 15.

Stylówka: We have to say, this is one of our favorites for the simple reason that it's wellorganized, stylish and affordable. You can find amazing shoes, coats, dresses and more, and it's one of the main stops for those who love to thrift along this corridor. QK-4, ul. Targowa 23.

Nash Outlet: You know those stories where people find a designer piece in a thrift store and they just can't believe their luck? This is the place for that. This tiny store is packed and there are some real gems if you’re patient enough to lookQJ-4, Targowa 35.

Z 2 Ręki: Though this mostly has women’s clothes it’s well worth it: items are chic, modern and totally discredit the stereotype of thrifted clothing as “frumpy.” Plus, thrift store prices!QJ-3, Targowa 59.

Kopalnia: There’s more to visit on Targowa, but let’s jump off for a bit and go to Kopalnia - this store is clothing, but also furniture, books, art, ceramics and so much more. It’s a little more expensive but so well-curated and the items are so nice that a visit is a must (say hi to the owner’s pet turtle while you’re there!).QK-2, ul. Białostocka 9. 62

who wants to try a sip). Entries are timed (PL and EN tours hourly) and it’s wise to look at all the tour options online and book in advance. Visiting time: 1.5hrs.QK‑2, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 50, www. muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl. Open 12:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-21:00; closed Mon. 60zł. 6 5

Neon Museum

Yet another old industrial space-turned-cultural-hub is Soho Factory, the biggest draw of which is no doubt the illuminating (non-pun intended) Neon Museum. The passionate curators of this private museum have collected hundreds of Communist-era neon signs. One of Warsaw’s most photogenic places. Visiting time: 30mins.QM‑4, ul. Mińska 25, Soho Factory, Building 55, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 665 71 16 35, www.neonmuzeum.org. Open 12:0018:00; Sun 11:00-17:00; closed Tue. Admission 18/15zł, kids under 6 admission free. U6 6

Saska Kępa - Ul. Francuska

One of the most desirable districts of Warsaw; with property prices staunchly high, the neighbourhood is home to the nouveau riche, the intelligentsia and much of the capital’s art community. Now in the shadow of the National Stadium, the sporting complex plays a major role in bringing visitors to the focal point of the area: ul. Francuska, which hosts trendy bars, cafes, restaurants and mix of boutique and old-school shops - Saska Kępa is as close as Warsaw gets to the ‘Little Village’ areas of London or Paris or Greenwich Village in NYC. As such, it’s a great place to wander around, people watch, take in cafe culture on Francuska, or marvel at the architecture, including majestic 19th century manor houses, superb examples of 1920s and ‘30s modernism, Cold War tower blocks and ultra-modern developments. QL‑6/7/8, ul. Francuska, MDworzec Wileński. 7

Agnieszka Osiecka Monument

Agnieszka Osiecka (1936 - 1997) was a Polish poet and journalist, and the author of over 2,000 songs, many of which were turned into pop hits. She’s also known for a particularly grisly connection to the Swinging Sixties; her first marriage ended in tragedy when her husband, Wojciech Frykowski, became one of those slain by Charles Manson’s family of weirdos. The statue is located in Praga Południe aka Saska Kępa, and you’ll often find people lying gifts, flowers and candles at her monument. To round out your visit check out Osiecka’s favourite café, Maska, which stands around the corner from her monument.QL‑7, ul. Francuska (corner of ul. Obrońców).

Sightseeing | Praga 8

Skaryszewski Park

Across the river is one of Warsaw’s most attractive parks, with plenty of artificial hills, waterfalls, lakes and flowerbeds filling the 55 hectare site. In the winter it's equally beautiful, with snow and plenty of dog watching to be had. Originally founded in 1905, it first went under the name of Paderewski Park up until 1945. Several points of interest including a monument commemorating allied pilots killed when their B24 bomber was shot down in 1944 while trying to supply insurgents fighting in the Warsaw Uprising. Only seven crew members survived. Note: the main entrance to this park is currently under construction, but there are plenty of other entrances on the north and west sides QL‑5/6, Al. Zieleniecka, MStadion Narodowy. 9

PGE National Stadium

Opened January, 2012, PGE Narodowy can hold 58,000 fans. The construction was built using hundreds of 45m pillars driven into the ground to stabilise the 25m of war rubble the stadium sits atop Priced at 1.2 billion PLN, history buffs will note the Socialist era ‘Relay’ statue at the entrance has been preserved in a nod to the site’s heritage – it was here that Stadion Dziesięciolecia (10th Anniversary Stadium) stood, built in the 1950s to mark the anniversary of the end of WWII. This was also the site where, on September 8, 1968, in front of 100,000 people, Ryszard Siwiec set himself alight in protest of the Soviet-led invasion of Czechoslovakia. Today, this is an exceptional place to watch football or mega-concerts. All tour info can be found on their website. Most tours cost 35/26zł.QK‑6, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 22 295 90 00, www.pgenarodowy.pl.

10 Museum of Printing

This refurbished branch of the Museum of Warsaw boasts a collection of historical printing presses, fonts, bookbinding tools, and other paraphernalia for publishing books and pamphlets of all kinds. Keep an eye out for temporary exhibitions which put printing in its historical context. Average visiting time: 30mins.QJ‑3, ul. Ząbkowska 23/25, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 620 60 42, www. muzeumdrukarstwa.muzeumwarszawy.pl/en. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł. Thu free. 11 Warsaw Zoo

Opened in 1928, the Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors each year. In total there are 13,000 animals here, across 500 species. With tons of animals, from big cats to monkeys, the zoo is a great spot for families. It also has a fascinating (albeit depressing) history. More on that on p.79.QH‑3, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Open 09:00-16:00 (in March, 9:00-17:00). Admission 25/20 zł. 12 Saska Kępa Beach

Beaches aren't just for the summer! In fact, meander down here in February or March to find some great views of the center of the city, or peel off onto one of the paths that branches out from this beach for a nice long walk along the riverside. This is a lovely spot to explore, ride your bike and be amongst nature as you take a million pictures of the water and skyline. When you’re done with all that sightseeing, cross the road and meander through Saska Kępa for a bite, a drink and some good atmosphere. QL‑8, ul. Kryniczna, MDworzec Wileński.

The PGE National Stadium, with its distinctive look and lit-up facade, has become a symbol of Praga.

An original flask from one of the Chevau-legérs – the soldiers who fought for Napoleon on horseback – now displayed at Vodka Museum (p.70).

Art, History & Culture Warsaw’s combination of these three is what makes it so exciting. Whether you’re an art lover, amateur historian, or tracing your roots, Warsaw’s heady brew of imperial grandeur, prewar glamour, 20th century tragedy, socialist austerity and present-day dynamism makes it unique in Europe and offers much to the visitor. Use this chapter of the guide to discover the capital’s art spaces and current exhibitions, find out about museums ranging from niche to national, and learn about sites related to some of the most important events in Warsaw’s modern history. 64

Art, History & Culture | Art Tourism

Warsaw’s Best Museums & Art Spaces Warsaw is the centre of Poland’s contemporary art scene and home to countless pieces of priceless art. While Kraków’s collections skew more historical, Warsaw boasts a great variety of exhibits showcasing younger artists as well as the nation’s masters. When it comes to art tourism, temporary exhibits are often as or more important than permanent collections, so check the current exhibitions on p.66. 1

Fryderyk Chopin Museum

Warsaw National Museum

Zachęta National Gallery

Located in a beautifully-restored palace, this museum uses incredible interactive multimedia displays to illustrate the life of Poland’s most famous composer, without any details missing! QSee p.50. Polish and European masters, Polish design, ancient African art and 5 decades of painting can all be found inside the exhibits of this stately museum. QSee p.71. One of the most popular and beloved museums in Warsaw, Zachęta showcases temporary exhibits with contemporary art in a stunning Renaissance-style palace. QSee p.71.

POLIN Museum

Neon Museum

Vodka Museum

One of the best museums in Poland, POLIN explains a millennium of Polish Jewish history in fascinating, engaging, and often interactive, detail. QSee p.73. A small, but brilliantly illuminating and highly photogenic museum, displaying hundreds of historical neon signs from Warsaw’s past.QSee p.62. Poland's first-ever vodka museum is a captivating journey through the more than 500year history of Poland's cherished national drink. Independently founded by the owners of beloved restaurant, Elixir by Dom Wódki.QSee p.70.

Murals & Street Art What about art in public spaces? Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with Polish print advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality. With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would have a penchant for street art as well. And they do. In Warsaw both graffiti art and large-scale murals are a common sight, with the city and private businesses even inviting international artists to do installations. You’ll find a particularly high volume of murals on buildings in Praga, Wola and around the City Centre, where the urban landscape is changing most rapidly. Although it’s a dynamic situation, as many murals are installed on buildings that later become designated for demolition, at WIYP we keep a close eye on murals and urban art, marking major works on all of our maps; just look for the spray can icon . Not only that, but we’ve meticulously put it all online with exact GPS coordinates, so that your smartphone can do the work of leading you directly to Warsaw’s alternative artistic visions. 65

Discover the life and works of Frida Kahlo in this immersive exhibit at Art Box (p.77).

Temporary Exhibits It’s not uncommon for some temporary exhibits to be major events, even overshadowing the permanent collections of local museums. Of the literal hundreds of art events across Warsaw, here are a few picks for the coming months. For more, as well as other events in the capital, head to our website. Current » Frida Kahlo. The life of an icon.

UNTIL 31.05 » Childhood

An immersive experience using light and color to look at the life of one of the world’s most famous artists. This exhibition uses photographs, video, digital images, collector’s items and music. Exhibition running until at least mid-MarchQC/D‑8, Fabryka Norblina, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo Daszyńskiego, 75/65zł, www.artboxexperience.com/en/frida-kahlothe-life-of-an-icon/.

What does it mean to be a child? This exhibition presents viewers with the lives of 6 children born every 30 years over the last century, looking at the way ideas and behaviors of childhood have adapted. QF‑6, National Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, Admission 19/10zł., www.ethnomuseum.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 07.04 » Byzantine Nostalgia The Byzantine Nostalgia project examines similarities between Polish and Ukrainian art to find their common cultural sources. This exhibition focuses more on the attraction to a metaphysical, timeless reality. QI‑10, Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art, ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, www.u-jazdowski.pl. Open 12:00 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. 66

UNTIL 06.02 » Chopin’s Letters | A special exhibition Using Chopin’s own letters to family and friends, this exhibition gives a window into the composer's closest surroundings in the mid-19th century, a time rife with political revolutions. This exhibition in particular centers on Chopin’s letters at a difficult time in European history, when cholera and

Art, History & Culture | Temporary Exhibits tuberculosis were gripping the continent. See the letters to get a feel for the moment, seen through the eyes of one of the world's best musiciansQH‑7, Fryderyk Chopin Museum, ul. Okólnik 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, Admission 25/15zł, www.muzeum.nifc.pl.

UNTIL 31.12 » DESIGNERS OF LIGHT The women creators of Warsaw’s neon signs. This exhibit put on by the Neon Museum in Praga is a deep-dive into the female designers -- graphic artists, visual artists and even architects -- responsible for many of the famous neon signs of the 1950s, 60s and 70s that were found around Warsaw and other Polish cities. QM‑4, Neon Museum, ul. Mińska 25, Soho Factory, Building 55, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 665 71 16 35, www.neonmuzeum.org. Open 12:00 17:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue.

UNTIL 15.11 » “Polish Flowers” This exhibition takes a trip through Polish rituals by way of flowering plants. In seven rooms full of flowers, color and adventure, a multi-sensory path is laid out, primarily for children and their families. Much of the exhibition is interactive: swing on ropes made of linen and help, watch artists dye flowersQF‑6, National Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.ethnomuseum.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 07.04 » There’s nothing here -Małgorzata Pawlak and Mikołaj Kowalski This exhibit presents the work of two artists who admire the world around them, turning to nature for inspiration and creativity, especially the parts of nature that are imperfect, mutated or harmed by man. Viewers will be left ready to learn about micro and macro world.QF‑6, Zachęta National Gallery of Art, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 10.03 » The thrill of discovery. Treasure of Słuszków In 2020, researchers returned to a sight where remnants of treasure were found 100 years ago and found...more treasure. Silver coins, gold rings, fragments of silver jewellery and silver cakes were discovered in a pot dating back to the 12th century. This exhibition tells the story of the most recent discovery. QG‑4, Gallery of Masterpieces, Pl. Zamkowy 4 (Royal Castle), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. 67

Museums

The mesmerising interior of the Fryderyk Chopin Museum and its interactive multimedia exhibition (p.50).

Warsaw boasts some superior museums, ranging from world-class attractions full of multimedia displays, to small institutions covering niche historical events. It’s more than we have space to cover here, but you’ll find them all listed and up-todate on our website. In this guide, some of the city’s most important museums are listed within the district tours of Sightseeing section, while the rest of the best are here. Descriptions focus on each museum’s permanent collection; for current temporary exhibits, see p.66.

Archdiocese Museum

Asia & Pacific Museum

This Old Town Museum showcases over 20,000 items dating from the Middle Ages up to today. Split into the Sacred and the Profane, the former includes liturgical objects, paintings and sculptures of Jesus, Mary and the saints. The latter includes lots of furniture, clocks, sculpture and paintings, including works by famous artists such as Malczewski, Hofman and even Beksiński. One highlight is entering the ‘Royal Corridor’ (aka the ‘Piekarski Corridor’) that formerly connected the Royal Castle with the Cathedral, and was built to ensure King Sigismund III Vasa’s safe passage between the two following an assassination attempt in 1620. Visiting time: 1hr. QG‑4, ul. Dziekania 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 621 34 14, www.maw.art.pl. Open 12:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-16:00; closed Mon. CATHEDRAL CRYPTS MondaySaturday: 10:00-17:00 Sunday: 15.00-17.00. Admission 30/22zł. U

Founded in 1973, this was the first museum in Poland entirely dedicated to collecting art from outside Europe and currently counts items from almost every country in Asia and Oceania among its nearly 22,000 total pieces. The collection includes, among other things, amazing weapons, rich fabrics, countless theatre puppets and masks, musical instruments, sculptures and paintings by contemporary artists. The museum also collects documents, photographs, films and recordings of ethnic music. Additionally, there are frequent temporary exhibitions held here so make sure to check their website! Visiting time: 1hr.QJ‑7, ul. Solec 24, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 621 94 70, www.muzeumazji.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/9zł. Thu free. English group tours cost 100zł (plus price of individual ticket). U

Art, History & Culture | Museums Katyń Museum Found in the Warsaw Citadel - a massive 19th century fortress - this museum documents the shocking events of 1940 when 22,000 Polish officers were executed by their Soviet captors in the middle of a Russian forest. The museum has a host of objects, documents and personal effects that have been recovered from the site near Smoleńsk, Russia. The artefacts from the victims and a scrolling list of their names need no explanation, while the multimedia presentation of the extenuating circumstances, the victims’ stories and the entire event’s historical relevancy are well thought-out and thoroughly moving. Visiting time: 2hrs.QE‑1, ul. Jana Jeziorańskiego 4 (entrance from Nowomiejska gate), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 26 187 83 42, www. muzeumkatynskie.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission free. Guided tours (EN, PL) 90-300zł. Audioguides (EN, PL, DE, FR, RU) 15zł. U

Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum Born in Warsaw in 1867, local lass Maria Skłodowska would become better known to the world as Madame Marie Curie. Located in the renovated building she was born in, this charming museum pays homage to the life and work of the two-time Nobel Prize-winning physicist and chemist, whose many accomplishments include the discovery of the chemical element polonium (named after the country of her birth). Visitors will learn about her family and early life, see a recreation of her Parisian laboratory, and view personal effects, including her private letters and scientific instruments. The former home/museum of one of Poland's most famous women is a must! Visiting time: 1hr.QF‑3, ul. Freta 16, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 80 92, www.mmsc. waw.pl. Open 12:00-18:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 11/6zł, Tue free. U

Museum of Dollhouses, Games & Toys A small, charming museum fittingly located right in Warsaw’s Old Town. Showcasing over 150 highly-detailed historical dollhouses, plus various other minature settings, the museum’s two permanent exhibits - ‘The Bygone World of Dollhouses’ and ‘Religious Toys’ - both show unique handcrafted models, costumes and toys, while also demonstrating how tastes and fashions have changed over time. Another small branch nearby at ul. Krzywe Koło 2/4 (F-4) hosts temporary exhibits (currently toys from the PRL-era). Visiting time: 4560mins.QF‑4, ul. Podwale 15, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 797 72 30 29, www.muzeumdomkow.pl. Open 11:00-19:00. Tickets 35/25zł; kids under 1m tall, free. 69

Museums | Art, History & Culture Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art Completed in a Baroque style in 1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII and torn down by communist authorities. Fortunately, the castle was rebuilt to its original design in the 1970s. Today several large exhibition halls showcase a rotating collection of the very best contemporary art; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, by leading Polish and international artists. Visiting time: 2hr.QI‑10, ul. Jazdów 2 MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, www.u-jazdowski.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Thu 11:00-20:00. Admission 16/8zł; 2 exhibits 12/6zł; 1 exhibit 10/5zł; project room 5zł; students 1zł; Thu free.

National Ethnographic Museum Tragically overlooked by most visitors to Warsaw, this joy of a museum showcases all that’s best about Poland’s cultural heritage - colourful folk costumes, customs and traditions, tools and instruments, outsider art, handicrafts and more - all of it beautifully presented in a historical building. Interestingly, there’s also a ‘Korean Gallery’ with a traditional Korean ‘hanok’. Expect multiple temporary exhibits at a time, including the current exhibition, Childhood (p.66). Visiting time: 2-3hrs.QF‑6, ul. Kredytowa 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.ethnomuseum.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Thu 11:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-18:00; closed Mon. Tickets 19/10zł, Thu free. U

Vodka Museum Poland's first-ever vodka museum is a captivating journey through the more than 500-year history of Poland's cherished national drink. With the world's largest collection of over 10,000 exhibits, visitors delve into vodka's origins, production processes, design, and even the traditional etiquette in which vodka is served and consumed. Independently founded by the passionate owners of the renowned restaurant Elixir by Dom Wódki (p.90), the museum seeks to shift the perception of Polish vodka from mere party indulgence to a finely-sipped and respected spirit. Showcasing intriguing artifacts like a Napoleonic soldier's vodka-filled canteen and 1920s/30s bottles that were sent to the U.S. during prohibition, the museum offers an enlightening and enjoyable experience, and paying a little extra gets you in on a vodka tasting session. Tickets cost 30zł to see the permanent exhibition, whilst an included vodka tasting session is available from 35zł all the way up to 195zł for their VIP Package! Prior reservation is essential for this not-to-be-missed attraction. If you're going to see one place in Warsaw, let this informative, fun and engaging museum be it! Visiting time: 1 hr.QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 11 (entrance from ul. Canaletta), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 888 600 805, www.muzeumwodki.pl. Open 13:00-19:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-19:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing. Admission 25zł. X

Invisible Exhibition A unique experience where seeing impaired guides lead you into their sightless world. On the tour you’ll understand the challenges blind people face daily as you try to write with a Braille typewriter, use kitchen gadgets designed for the sightless, and solve simple puzzles while blindfolded. Next, enter a series of pitch-black rooms that force you to rely on your other senses. You’ll feel the contours of a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is, listen for cars before crossing the street, and the guide will even serve you a drink in the completely dark bar (bring some cash). Truly a fascinating experience. To visit, book online in advance. Tours in English can be arranged, but you must first email them via info@niewidzialna.pl with ‘TOUR IN ENGLISH’ as the subject line. Visiting time: 1hr. QC‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A (Atlas Tower), MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 504 32 44 44, www.niewidzialna.pl. Open 10:00-20:00. Admission 40/35zł; Sat, Sun 45/40zł. N

Art, History & Culture | Museums Polish History Museum Explore the history of Poland in this sleek, 7,300-square-meter museum that covers 1,000 years of Polish history through artefacts, movies, performances, guided tours and more! There are plenty of history museums in Warsaw, of course, but if you’re coming to the capital city and wondering where the full, extensive picture of Poland’s past is located, well then you’ve found it! This museum starts with the Jagiellonian Dynasties before moving on to the Polish Commonwealth in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. The partition of Poland, the reunification, the period of WWII, communism, and more.Qul. Gwardii 1, tel. (+48) 691 231 681, www. muzhp.pl/en. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00; closed Mon, Tue. 10/5zł, children under 7 free.

Zachęta National Gallery of Art One of the leading galleries in Poland, with a focus on the contemporary. Located in a beautiful Renaissance-style palace in the centre of Warsaw, just across from the Saxon Garden, the setting itself is worth a visit. What makes Zachęta more of a gallery than museum is that there is no core permenant exhibition on display, but rather top-notch temporary exhibits showcasing the best in Polish and international contemporary art. Visiting time 6090mins.QF‑6, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art. pl. Open 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. last entry at 7:30 pm. Admission 20/10zł, family ticket 25zł, students 2zł. Thu free. U6

Warsaw National Museum Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre interwar building, this is Warsaw’s most comprehensive art museum, leading you from the ancient world through the middle ages up to the 19th century. Along the way you’ll see the some of the country’s most priceless works, including Dutch masters and Botticelli. There’s also the Gallery of Polish Design and the Faras Gallery - the latter of which holds a rare exhibit of medieval Nubian art from the Nile River Valley. Get a mix of painting, history and architecture, as well as some fascinating temporary shows. The current temporary exhibits a look at the cultural interpretations of the myth of Arcadia, a blissful, natural space that's a common theme in both Greek and Roman myth, and in Renaissance paintings. Visiting time: 3hrs.QH‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/10zł for permanent exhibits; kids and students up to 26; 1zł; Tue free. U 71

Jewish Warsaw The spectacular wooden synagogue installation at POLIN Museum.

When Nazi Germany invaded Poland in September 1939, Warsaw’s thriving Jewish population numbered approximately 350,000 - only New York City could boast a larger community. Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare, Poland had been seen as a relative safe haven, and it attracted Jewish settlers forced into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war years, the Jewish population had made significant contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland. As we know, Nazi occupation meant the complete dehumanisation and systematic destruction of Poland’s Jews, who were first forced into ghettos, where they faced violence, starvation and disease, and then deported to Nazi death camps where they were executed. The Warsaw Ghetto was the largest of WWII and occupied much of the City Centre, as you can see by its outline on the maps in this guide. At its height it imprisoned 460,000 Jews in an area of 3.4km2. After more than 254,000 Varsovian Jews were sent to their deaths at Treblinka in the summer of 1942, those remaining began building bunkers and smuggling weapons into the Ghetto in preparation for what would be the war’s largest act of Jewish resistance. Beginning on April 19, 1943, Jewish fighting units engaged German troops in guerilla 72

warfare within the walls of the Ghetto in a final, doomed act of bravery, defiance and protest against the world’s silence and inaction. When the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising ended 27 days later with the German command’s symbolic detonation of the Great Synagogue, 13,000 Jews had been killed, almost half of them perishing from the fire and smoke as the Nazis burned the Ghetto to the ground, building by building. Of the remaining 50,000 Jews, almost all of them were captured and perished at the Majdanek or Treblinka Nazi death camps. Following WWII, much of Warsaw’s surviving Jewish population chose to emigrate to the U.S., the British mandate of Palestine (taking an active part in the creation of Israel) and elsewhere. Today Warsaw’s Jewish community is estimated at only about 2,000, but the city’s Jewish heritage remains an essential part of its identity, honoured today by innumerable monuments, memorials, museums and events, foremost among them the POLIN Museum, presenting the history of Polish Jews, and the annual Singer’s Warsaw Festival. For a full list of Jewish tourism sites in Warsaw, visit our website.

Art, History & Culture | Jewish Warsaw

Worth Visiting Anielewicz Bunker Only 350m from POLIN, this small mound and memorial marks the site of the large bunker from which the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising was lead by the Jewish Combat Organisation (ŻOB). Located beneath the tenement at the wartime address of ul. Miła 18 (today Miła 2), the bunker was discovered and surrounded by the Nazis on May 8, 1943, with about 300 people hiding inside. Given the chance to surrender, half of the occupants mostly civilians - gave themselves up, but the ŻOB insurrectionists chose to stay and fight. When the Nazis used gas to force them out, many of the ŻOB fighters chose suicide. 120 fighters died, including ŻOB commander Mordechai Anielewicz and his girlfriend Mira Fuchrer; only about 15 survived (many of whom perished later). The bodies of the dead were never exhumed and covered over with rubble from the surrounding tenements to make this mound after the war. Today two monuments can be found on/near the memorial with inscriptions commemorating their sacrifice.QD‑3, ul. Miła 2, MDworzec Gdański.

Jewish Historical Institute

Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery A beautiful and poignant place to visit, this is Warsaw’s only active Jewish cemetery. Established in 1806 beyond the city trenches (‘okopy,’ where today’s Okopowa Street runs), the cemetery houses some 200,000 tombs and is the final resting place of many generations of Varsovian Jews, including Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto.QB‑5, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.cemetery.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Fri 9:00-13:00; Sun 9:00- 16:00; closed Sat. Admission 20zł. N

POLIN Museum One of the best museums in Poland, POLIN explains a millennium of Polish Jewish history and relations through multimedia displays that earned the 2016 European Museum of the Year award. Located within the former Warsaw Ghetto, the modern building itself is a stunning structure of copper and glass. Inside, each gallery addresses a different era in the history of the Jewish people in PL, from the 10th century to the tragic events of the 20th. While the Holocaust is described in detail, the permanent exhibit is primarily a celebration of 1,000 years of Jewish life in PL. Exhaustive and fascinating, it takes the better part of a day to explore. The temporary exhibits are of such quality that they require their own ticket, and the museum is also home to a cafe and an excellent restaurant serving traditional Jewish cuisine (kosher dishes available). In the middle of a green public square, outside, visitors will also see several monuments, including a massive memorial the heroes of the Warsaw Ghetto. Visiting time: 3hrs.QD‑4, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-20:00; closed Tue. Admission with audio guide 45/35zł, temporary exhibition only 30/25zł, audioguide 10zł, Thu free. TU

This amazing historical building that stood next to Warsaw’s Great Synagogue houses the Oneg Shabbat Archive, also known as the Ringelblum Archive - a secretly kept collection of documents, reports, essays, letters and other materials recording exactly what life was like in the Warsaw Ghetto, by those who were experiencing it, as it happened. As the Ghetto came under siege in 1943, the vast archive was secretly buried in three containers in three separate locations. Sadly, only the first two have been recovered, but they represent such extraordinary witness testimony that they were inscribed on UNESCO’s Memory of the World List. In the permanent exhibit you will see the original documents of the archive, the authentic containers and more. If you don’t have the time for POLIN, this is a great alternative. There are also temporary exhibits and an excellent bookshop. Visiting time: 90mins. QE‑5, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Tue 09:00-20:00; Fri 09:00-16:00; Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Sat. Last entrance 1h before closing. Admission 15/10zł. Mon free. Okopowa Jewish Cemetery (B-4) in the Wola district.

Photo by Fotokon / Adobestock.

Warsaw Uprising Polish Home Army soldiers in action, 1944.

August 1, 1944. Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist hegemony, rose up in rebellion in what would be the largest uprising in the German occupied territories. With German morale in ribbons, a retreat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army on the east bank of the Vistula, no time seemed better than the present. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime military movement a.k.a the ‘Armia Krajowa’ or AK) launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an independent government. What ensued was an epic 63-day struggle during which the Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler’s forces.

17:00 - W-Hour On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski, 17:00 signalled W-Hour (‘Wybuch’ standing for outbreak), the time when some 40,000 members of the Home Army would simultaneously attack key German positions. Warsaw at the time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any numerical supremacy the Poles had was offset by a lack of weaponry. Nonetheless the Germans were caught off guard, and the Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the Old Town, Prudential Tower and the post office. The first day cost the lives of 2,000 Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag fluttered once more over the capital. 74

Within days German reinforcements poured in, and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. It was to prove a mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, cultural life thrived. Better still, the first allied airdrops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under the command of Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks. Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on the insurgents' side was an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance. Airdrops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate. All hopes rested on the Russians.

Art, History & Culture | Warsaw Uprising After six weeks of inaction Red Army Marshal Rokossovsky finally gave the go-ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the river. The operation was a debacle, with heavy casualties and no headway made. This single attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaw’s Old Town had become untenable, and a daring escape route was hatched through the sewers running under the city. The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken with glee. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were forced to capitulate, some 63 days after they had taken on the Reich.

The Aftermath Having deposited their weaponry, 11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city. ‘No stone can remain standing,’ warned Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings of importance to Polish culture were dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas were simply burned to the ground. Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around $54bn. In human terms Poland lost much more. With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very foundation a new post-war Poland could build on.

Warsaw Rising Museum

Opened in 2004, this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with interactive, multimedia displays, period artefacts, photos, video footage and plenty of sounds effects, this museum is guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram power station, the 2,000m2 space is split over several levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of the 1944 Uprising - provided they don’t make any wrong turns; it’s a common mistake, and, as such, an audioguide (10zł) is handy. You can also get a guided tour in Polish (150zł) or in another language (200zł). Set aside several hours for the experience. Visitors start by learning about life under Nazi rule, with immersive displays including a clandestine radio station and covert printing press. The mezzanine level features a film detailing the first month of battle, including the opportunity to clamber through a mock sewer. There is also an exact replica of the B24 Allied planes used to make supply drops over the besieged city. The final sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant display about the city’s destruction; take time to watch the black and white ‘before and after’ shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Nazis. Near the exit check out the film City of Ruins, a silence-inducing 5min 3D aerial ‘film’ that uses old photos and new tech to recreate the desolation of ‘liberated’ Warsaw in March 1945. A viewing platform (open weather permitting) and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this high impact experience. Visiting time: 3hrs.QB‑7, ul. Grzybowska 79, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 539 79 05, www.1944.pl. Open 08:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission 30/25zł (kids under 7 free), Mon free. Audioguides in 27 languages 10zł/person. U

The Old Town Market Square in ruins, 1945.

Activities & Experiences Hey, it doesn’t all have to be exhausting museums and knee-lifts as you explore Poland’s largest city. Check out the local activities below if you’re looking for fun alternatives to traditional sightseeing, ready to try something new, or simply want some rest and relaxation. Smart Kids Planet Smart Kids Planet is one of the best spots for kids and families in Poland! With 9 thematic zones and with over 50 engaging activities throughout, kids can play and learn as they do different tasks like building construction, shopping for food and fresh produce, learning about sports, and the magic of machinery and production lines, and much more! They'll develop cognitive function and cooperation skills all while having fun (plus there's a rest area for parents!)QD‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www.smartkidsplanet.pl. Open 9:00-20:00.

Stacja Grawitacja Gravity getting you down? Get the bounce back in your step at this huge trampoline park that also features 3D virtual reality gaming by Hologate, a ropes course, obstacle course, basketball and volleyball courts and even a climbing wall with routes for all ages and abilities. Put on anti-slip socks and join the fun. Children ages 3-6 must be accompanied by adults; older kids can be let loose while their parents hang out at the well-stocked cafe. Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 13 06 66, www. stacjagrawitacja.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

World of Illusion A strict break from the stuffiness of the Old Town, this fun, colourful museum is exciting and educational for all ages. Enter the Matrix, a mirror room, a vortex, the room of shadows, and an upsidedown room - each and every one out-of-this world! Pefect for groups and pairs, make sure your phone is fully charged so you don’t miss these photo-ops, and go discover the extent to which the mind can be tricked by the eye.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 21, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 501 80 80 06, www.swiatiluzji.pl. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00. Admission 40/30zł. 6 76

MK Bowling Entertainment Center Found inside Galeria Młociny in the northern district of Bielany, this modern entertainment centre is just 2 mins away from the final stop of the M1 metro line ‘Metro Młociny’. Once you’re there, you have the choice of 12 bowling lanes, 3 billiards tables, and 4 shuffleboard tables, plus a bar that also dishes out Neapolitan-style pizza! Call in advance to reserve.Qul. Zgrupowania AK Kampinos 15 (Galeria Młociny, 2nd floor), MMłociny, tel. (+48) 600 80 05 56, www.mkbowling.pl/start-warszawa. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00.

Art Box Experience Using high-tech screens and playing with light and dark, movement and stillness, the creative experts at Art Box present a number of highly immersive exhibitions through moving paintings and photographs projected across the walls, which visitors can marvel as they wander through the 800 sqm space. The space isn’t reserved for what the bright minds at Art Box can come up with - it can be used for events, too!QD‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), tel. (+48) 571 03 04 80, www.artboxexperience.com/en/aboutus/. Open 9:00-20:00; Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00.

Mandoria Theme Park Roller coasters, carousels, mirror mazes, fun slides: this is the ideal day trip! Mandoria is a beloved theme park with a 16-century Renaissance vibe, just an hour and a half outside of Warsaw by car. With 30 attractions for both kids and adults, plenty of costumes, food, drinks and more, this park will keep you entertained for hours and hours. Plus, it has lots of amenities, like facilities for the disabled, a garden, and it's pet-friendly. And don't worry about weather, eitherthis spot is all indoors!Qul. Miasto Mody 2, Rzgów, tel. (+48) 512 64 86 42, www.mandoria.com. Open 10:00-18:00. 77

Kids & Families In addition to bouncy floors, Stacja Grawitacja (p.76) also boasts the best 3D VR gaming experience in Poland!

While Warsaw has plenty of wonders, not every cultural site is going to be engaging for young visitors. The first step to having a successful family vacation is probably to just accept that what you and your kids want to do are not going to be one and the same. That said, there’s common ground to be found in some of Warsaw’s most popular attractions. Wandering the Old Town (p.36) or Łazienki (p.54) will likely please everyone, as will a walk along the Vistula Boulevards (p.51) - a great outing with plenty of diversions, most obvious of which is the stimulating and educational Copernicus Science Centre (p.53) and Multimedia Fountain Park further north. You’ll also find playgrounds along the river, and in the high season you can take a ferry to the wild side of Wisła and enjoy one of the city’s wild beaches. Although it may sound more like punishment, kids really respond to the interactive exhibits of the highly modern Warsaw Rising Museum (p.75), which features areas designed specifically for young visitors. Some of Warsaw’s more niche museums like the National Ethnographic Museum (p.70), Museum of Dollhouses (p.69) and Photoplasticon are also good choices for families. Of course, Warsaw has plenty of action-packed indoor attractions (p.76), so don’t miss the rainy day recommendations on the previous pages. Panoramic viewpoints are also a winner with kids, so in addition to those at the Rising Museum 78

and University Gardens, check out St. Anne’s tower (p.44) near Plac Zamkowy, and the viewing terrace at the Palace of Culture & Science (p.25).

Warsaw Photoplasticon Hidden in a dark pre-war tenement near the train station, a visit here really is a trip back in time. A popular form of entertainment in the pre-cinema era, a ‘photoplasticon’ is basically a 3D peep show (no, not the saucy kind) where visitors sit in front of a viewing station to see vivid photos as they slowly rotate by. Although photoplasticons were quickly made obsolete by moving pictures, this one, which has been here since 1905, somehow stayed open, surviving the war and even serving as a meeting point for intellectuals during communism. Check online to see what’s loaded into the machine from their collection of over 7,000 images. Visiting time: 20mins.QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 51, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 60 78, www.fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission 10/6zł; Thu free.

Activities | Kids & Families Warsaw Zoo We know we mentioned the zoo earlier (p.63) but it really is worth a visit, and before you go, check out the history on their website. Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares and has 13,000 animals, across 500 species. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent years, though a visit here will do little to change any opinions you have on locking animals in cages. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, he helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the zoo.QH‑3, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Open 09:0016:00 (in March until 17:00). Admission 25/20 zł.

Smart Kids Planet Young families visiting Warsaw need not worry about wholesome fun for the kids! Head along to Fabryka Norblina (p.29) and you will find Smart Kids Planet the first edutainment centre in Poland --recreational format that bridges the gap between play and science. Divided into 9 thematic zones and with over 50 engaging activities throughout, kids can journey through different worlds - building construction, food and fresh produce, sports, the magic of machinery and production lines, and more. This center helps kids learn how to cooperate, become ecologically conscious and, become familiar with the latest tech. Made for children aged from 0-10, Smart Kids Planet is also smart for parents too, with 3 rest zones for Mums and Dads, a cafe with a kids menu, and the Smart Kids Store (p.106)!QD‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www.smartkidsplanet.pl. Open 09:00-20:00. U

Pinball Station Listen here, sonny boy. Back in the day, folks used to go down to the arcade and play the pinball machines for a little entertainment. Relive those predigital days in this wildly fun and nostalgic pinball museum, featuring over 100 working machines you can actually play on, some of which date back to the 1930s. A great place to introduce this old school game to younger generations, admission gets you unlimited play for the entire day; you can even leave and come back later.QB‑9, ul. Kolejowa 8A, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 600 63 31 15, www. pinballstation.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. Admission 49/43zł; kids under 12, 35zł. kids under 4 for free. 79

Fluffy, savory focaccia (and so much more) awaits at PRIMITIVO Kuchnia i Wino (p.88).

Dining in Warsaw Nowhere is Warsaw’s vibrancy and diversity more apparent than in its progressive culinary scene. What follows are some of the most noteworthy dining establishments in the capital, divided into basic categories with the type of cuisine listed under the venue name; for more options visit our website. In terms of tipping, 10% is standard (easy math). Smacznego! 80

Dining | Featured

Tokyo Sushi utensils Japanese Located right on Nowy Świat (with a lovely seasonal terrace, plus additional locales in the Blue City and Galeria Mokotów shopping malls), Tokyo Sushi is a great place to take a break from shopping or sightseeing for a healthy and filling lunch. The menu is absolutely exhaustive, encompassing almost any kind and combination of sushi you could desire, plus soups, salads, sashimi, gunkan, tartar, hot dishes with rice and 650ml bowls of ramen. If you can’t decide what you want, simply grab what looks good (everything?!) from the ready-made sushi rolls and salads going by on the conveyor; each is colour-coded by price from 8-15zł. Popular with the local business lunch crowd, there are many value deals to be had in the afternoon - including weekends - and the sheer volume of food being served ensures that all the ingredients are exceptionally fresh. QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 50, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 657 15 89, www.tokyosushi.com.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. €€€. T6

PierOgarnia utensils Polish Located right in the heart of Warsaw, these are authentic, handmade pierogi done really well. You’ll find all the classic flavors here, from fliffy and slightly sour cheese and potato, to savory mushroom and cabbage, to meat and of course, the fan favorite: spinach. The thing that sets this place apart is the flavor and the locally sourced ingredients. Everything comes fresh from areas around Warsaw, meaning you know you're getting the absolute best quality in your pierogi (no frozen, packeged stuff here!) Plus, the fact that they're handmade means that you're getting delicious pierogi with that fresh dough bite better than anything you could buy at the store. Inside, you'll be delighted by the decor, which includes illustrations of pierogi and rolling pins, all in a colorful, well-lit restaurant with large windows for ideal people-watching. This place is a total hidden gem right in the center of the city! Qul. Złota 11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 668 01 69 80. www.facebook.com/PierOgarnia11. Open 12:00–20:00. €€. T6oS

Breakfast & Brunch Nova Wola has the tastiest (and most photo-worthy) breakfasts!

For some the direction of the day depends on the ability to eat a good breakfast, so we’ve highlighted some of our favourite places in Warsaw that specialise in śniadania (the Polish word for breakfast). Whether you’re an early bird or a late riser, get a good first feed in the places listed here!

Croque Madame

Nova Wola

A mighty fine French-style cafe, bakery and cake shop which neatly manages to walk the difficult line of being neither too trendy nor too old-fashioned, attracting a nice mix of customers as a result. The beautiful interior is all delicate whites and pale greys and the attention to every detail is immediately noticeable. Enjoy an all-day breakfast (Polish & French style), soups, entrees, freshly made sandwiches and light and colourful salads while marvelling at the daily selection of cakes and sweets. As a special winter offer, they have delicious Christmas gingerbread and gift sets Whatever you decide to order (it’s not easy), it all comes simply, yet perfectly, presented, served by staff who genuinely seem be as pleased as their customers to be there.QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 41, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 531 43 13 00. Open 09:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-22:00. €€. o6

Located within the elegant Crowne Plaza Hotel, Nova Wola encourages a wholesome start to your day in Warsaw, with a fresh and organic breakfast selection as part of its impressive modern Polish menu offer (p.91). Whether you opt for the breakfast buffet or à la carte, you’ll find light and healthy options crafted from local and seasonal ingredients. The breakfast menu includes favorites like omelettes with add-ins, shakshouka, brioche with smoked salmon, avocado and egg, and more. For those seeking unique choices, Nova Wola also offers baked sweet potatoes with yogurt, berries, and granola, as well as hummus with roasted vegetables. Additionally, the restaurant offers entire pots of coffee, ensuring you have ample caffeine to energize yourself for he day ahead.QC‑8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 377 38 01, www.novawola.com. Open 06:3010:30; Sat, Sun 06:30-11:00. €€€€. TU

Dining | Breakfast Panattoni Café

The Cool Cat

A delightful addition to Warsaw’s coffee scene, Panattoni Cafe is the perfect combination of aromatic coffee, mouthwatering dishes, and phenomenal desserts. While stylish and modern, the interior design and layout of this space has maintained a cozy atmosphere, inviting you and your entourage to come in, relax, and indulge. Your day in Warsaw should begin with a cup of Panattoni’s finest, whether it’s a classic black or something milk-based. As any hardcore coffee enthusiast would expect, each and everyone is expertly prepared to perfection and ready to drink and/ or instagram! Your coffee can also be indulged with a side of delectable desserts, of which you can find a fresh batch on display and are sure to satisfy your sweet tooth.QC‑7, ul. Krochmalna 58 (Browary Warszawskie), tel. (+48) 663 33 77 88, www.panattonicafe.com. Open 08:30-20:30. €€. TU6

One of our favourites, The Cool Cat is part Asianfusion bistro, part cocktail dive bar, all Varsovian awesome. If you need evidence that this laidback cult hangout has hipness to spare, they sells jars of their own vegan mayo and kimchi. In terms of dining in, The Cool Cat specialises in ramen (of course) and serves an iconic bao donut dessert topped with matcha ice cream and caramel miso. The best time to visit is all the time, but especially on weekends, when epic 37zł brunches are served until 14:00 (don’t sleep on this one!). They also have weekday lunch specials for only 30zł (12:00-16:00), exceptional coffee, wacky cocktails, craft beer and natural wines. Honestly, there’s no reason not to be here. 2nd location at ul. Marszałkowska 8 (H-12).QI‑7, ul. Solec 38, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 574 81 18 16. Open 10:0021:00; Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 09:30-22:00; Sun 09:30-21:00. €€. T6

ROXX Warsaw Steaks and Seafood On weekends this upscale restaurant becomes the ultimate brunch haven! Classic egg breakfasts are served any way you want, whether it be Florentine, Benedict or Royale, with brioche, scrambled with truffles, soft- or hard-boiled. Hot and cold sandwiches include an irresistible Croque Monsieur, a shrimp and mango sandwich that is tantalizingly adorned with chili mayonnaise and chives, and more. Elsewhere, there is an delectable array of freshly-baked goods, including croissants with jam and chocolate. Their loaded waffles are a fluffy paradise, crowned with seasonal fruits and vanilla cream. My goodness, it’s hard to know where to start!QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 420 32 23, www.roxx.pl/l_en/. Open 12:0023:00; Fri 09:00-00:00; Sat 09:00-01:00; Sun 09:00-22:00; closed Mon. Breakfast served Sat & Sun only, 09:0014:00. €€€€. XTo6

To Lubię

SAM Powiśle

A great little place that makes you feel like you’re in a small-town setting. Serving all-day-breakfasts, from bagels, soups and sandwiches, to a proper Cappuccino or Americano and more. Plus, their salads are known around Warsaw as some of the best. These locations are very hip among the local 20-somethings so make sure to show up early if you're going on a weekend. But if you do, the short line is worth it. These are some of the prettiest and tastiest and most Instagrammable breakfasts you can get in the city. Furthermore, 0.5l wine is 23zł from 16:00-21:00 daily, and Prosecco only 7zł! Also at Żurawia 6/12 (G-8), ul. Zwycięzców 32,, and ul. Puławska 24 in Mokotów (H-13).QG‑8, ul. Zgoda 3, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 28 55 22, www. bulkeprzezbibulke.pl. Open 07:30-23:00; Sat 8:00-23:00; Sun 8:00-22:00. €. 6T

At this stellar bakery/bistro it all starts with their own artisanal bread, which forms the basis for many of their breakfast options, including stacked bagels, sandwiches, French toast and more. But SAM offers a wide menu of delicious, diverse and healthy dishes, including many vegetarian/vegan and gluten-free options, plus vitamin-rich smoothies. Everything they offer is all natural and made from scratch. With such strong credentials, and a location next to the University Library, you can bet it’s popular, so don’t be surprised by slow service at peak times; the full house of hipsters let’s you know it’s worth the wait. Also at ul. Twarda 4 (Plac Grzybowski, E-7).QH‑6, ul. Lipowa 7A, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 600 80 60 84, www.sam.info.pl. Open 08:00-22:00; Tue, Sat, Sun 09:00-22:00. €€. TU6

Escape just beyond the medieval confines of the Old Town walls to find this charmingly twee cafe specialising in coffee, cakes, quiche and delicious fruit crumbles. If you enjoy Kraków’s cosy cafe culture, this spot is right up that alley, as opposed to the capital’s overabundance of postindustrial spaces with modern, minimal furnishings. When it comes to indulging in aromatic coffee and rich cakes, we’ll take the former. Breakfast is served all day, as well as wraps and some savoury snacks. In winter this is a great spot for wrapping up in a blanket and drinking some hot cocoa, warm mead or mulled aperol. The name translates to ‘I like this’ and indeed we do.QF‑3, ul. Freta 8, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 90 23, www.tolubie.pl. Open 09:00-22:00. €. 6

Bułkę przez Bibułkę

Casual dining Light bites, fresh herbs, and creamy yogurt, Bliski Wschód Vege Street Food & Cocktail Bar is a gem (p.88).

Sometimes you just need a casual and convenient place to relax, enjoy good food, vibes and hospitality. The following venues deliver in that regard. While our listed opening hours seem self-explanatory, be aware that some venues close their doors if business is slow, while others stay open after the kitchen has closed. In such cases, the hours we list are for the kitchen. Beef n’ Pepper

Bierhalle

utensils Steak Hidden away in a small alleyway alongside the famous Roma Theatre, the exterior may look like you’re about to enter a 1970’s Texas shopping mall, but inside it’s a smart, urban steakhouse and bar. The quality of the cuts here is excellent (28 days wet-aged or 30 days dry-aged) and the fact that they use the finest local meats means the prices are surprisingly reasonable. Seafood and Louisiana Chicken Wings struggle for a look-in as beef rules. In addition to a fine wine list, the slick bar has a brilliant selection of whiskies and bourbons, and there’s live music every Tuesday from 19:00. Kitchen closes one hour before closing time!QF‑9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 785 02 50 25, www.beefandpepper.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€€. TUE6

utensils International Inspired by the brewhouses of Bavaria, Bierhalle is an original concept that combines original beer produced on-site with mouthwatering cuisine brought to the table by talented and traditionallyfrocked waitstaff. A popular restaurant with locations all over Poland, guests will get to try several flavours of delicious ale (served in enormous steins), and see also see the brewing process in action. The menu offers a variety of dishes from Poland, from homemade dumplings to oven-baked pork knuckle, grilled salmon, chicken salads and much, much more. Also at Galeria Północna.QC‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 601 67 79 62, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€€. TUo

Symbol & Price Key utensils Category of Cuisine C‑1 Map Coordinate M Metro T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music N Credit cards not accepted o Year-round Garden X Smoking room available 6 Animal friendly

€ €€ €€€ €€€€ €€€€€

most mains under 35zł most mains 35–55zł most mains 55–80zł most mains 80–120zł most mains over 120zł

Dining | Casual Browar Warszawski utensils International The revamped Warsaw Brewery is one of the largest, most modern brewpubs in the region, producing 19 craft beers on site, from contemporary IPAs to legacy ales from the days of the Haberbusch & Schiele Brewery. Choosing is hard, so try a tasting set. The menu is tailored to complement your liquid meal, and includes a truffle burger, fresh seafood, platters from the Josper grill, plus veggie options, signature cocktails and single malt whiskys. The post-industrial interior has plenty of intimate spaces, and also gives you a peak at the brewing process.QC‑7, ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 799 00 00 21, www.browarwarszawski.com. Open 16:00-00:00; Sat 14:00-00:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. €€€. E

Ciao Napoli utensils Italian Located a short distance away from the Old Town Square (p.41), Ciao Napoli succeeds in bringing a little piece of Naples to the centre of Warsaw. Offering a selection of antipasti, salads, piadina and desserts, it’s the Neapolitan pizzas, with their fantastic thin and crispy dough, which really distinguish this small family-run franchise. The friendly atmosphere and coziness of the restaurant also shines, despite its popularity. You will leave satisfied, especially when you realise how reasonably priced the whole experience is! Their second location at ul. Piwna 40/42 (F-4) has weekday lunch specials from 12:0016:00.QF‑4, ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 508 69 43 52, www.ciaonapoli.pl. Open 12:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€. To6

Clash Restaurant & Bar at NYX Hotel Warsaw utensils International NYX has created an inviting first-floor space where urban art and culture collide, and anyone can drop in. With an open floor plan that features traditional dining areas flowing into more casual zones with sofas and armchairs, The Clash’s unique visual aesthetic includes retro and modern furnishings, elegant place settings and gold cutlery, plus edgy photography and street art installations. Dine on a unique fusion of Polish-Israeli cuisine, order a signature cocktail, or challenge their bar staff to make you a custom drink. Take advantage of Happy Hour specials from 17:00-19:00, and don’t be surprised to hear live bands or a DJ (check their FB to see what’s on). QD/E‑8, ul. Chmielna 71, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 346 29 00, www.leonardo-hotels.com/nyx-hotelwarsaw. Open 14:30-23:00. €€€. TUE6 85

Casual | Dining Czerwony Wieprz utensils Polish Deriving its name from a former meeting place for members of the early communist movement, legend has it that even Lenin paid this place a visit in 1909. The interior is based on the style favoured by the 1950’s -1960’s party elite, and the walls are bedecked with memorabilia of the era. Somehow the owners have managed to carefully side swerve tackiness and the whole experience has a lovely nostalgic glam. Popular with locals and tourists alike (including celebrities), 2012 saw it voted one of the 25 best and most interesting restaurants in the world by the Spanish Trade Leaders’ Club. Lunch on offer from Mon to Fri, 12:00-16:00.QC‑7, ul. Żelazna 68, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 850 31 44, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. TUo

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi utensils Polish You can’t visit the capital of Poland without trying some traditional Polish food, right? Gościniec has just that - hearty soups, plump dumplings, potato pancakes and various cutlets - all prepared ‘as they should be’ and at very reasonable prices. You can’t go wrong with pierogi, but we’d personally recommend the pork chops or cabbage rolls stuffed with meat (known locally as gołąbki: go-womp-ki). The drinks on offer are quite funky (cold/hot options), and it’s all served up by friendly staff wearing folk attire. It may feel very kitsch inside, but the food hits the mark and the portions are immense. Additional locations at ul. Nowy Świat 41 (G-7), and deep in the Old Town at ul. Podwale 19 and ul. Piwna 14 (F-4).QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 29, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 273 69 36, www.gosciniec.waw.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri 11:00-23:00. €€. To6

Gospoda pod Zygmuntem utensils Polish Located directly between the Royal Castle and the Old Town Square, this veteran Polish restaurant is as simple and traditional as it gets. A good option for tourists, families and anyone looking for their first foray into Polish cuisine, the modestly-priced, bilingual menu includes photos of almost every dish. There is a lot to choice, from classics like pierogi and potato pancakes, to old school staples that have dropped off most modern menus like tripe soup and chicken livers with fried onions and baked apples. With a tidy, colourful interior and fast service, the experience is easy, accessible and satisfying.QF‑4, ul. Świętojańska 15, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 428 39 43, www.gospoda.waw.pl/. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00. €€. To6 86

Dining | Casual Loft utensils International Mixed in amongst fast food choices like KFC and Sphinx comes Loft, a welcome respite for those who don’t necessarily want a meal in the city centre that requires eating with your fingers. The space itself is fun, with bubbly lights and bright furniture mixing with wacky S&M cartoon art and tableside aquariums. Lunch is your best bet, with soup, a main course and dessert all for 29,90zł every Monday through Friday! QF‑7, ul. Złota 11, tel. (+48) 668 01 69 64, www.restauracjaloft.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Mon 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-00:00; Sat 11:00-00:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. €€. TUo6

L’Osteria utensils Italian This chic little bistro suits the vibe of the surrounding Centrum Praskie Koneser complex, serving up traditional Italian food with style. And we have to say, it is good. This food has high-quality ingredients made in the traditional Italian way (no corner-cutting here!). Try some pizza with hand-made dough and a variety of authentic Italian ingredients, from prosciutto funghi to quattro formaggi, as well as other beloved favorites (BBQ chicken, anyone?) If you’re more in a pasta mood, L’Osteria offers up some delicious dishes, combining fresh ingredients like garlic, basil, spinach, cream and more. If, after a day at Centrum Praskie Koneser, you are ready to eat real, authentic Italian food, this is the place you should park yourself.QK-2, Plac Konesera 10A, MDworzec Wileński tel. (+48) 22 166 10 88, www.losteria.net/pl. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. €€€. XTUE6

MOMU utensils Polish MOMU has reshaped its image entirely and almost literally rebuilt its kitchen around an imported American Southern smoker. Now they specialise in grilled and smoked meats, fish, fruit and even cheeses. Their smoker is fed daily by fresh aromatic wood from the Łomianki forest outside Warsaw. The smoked theme carries over to the cocktail menu as the skillful bartenders whip up creative cocktails using savoury and spicy smoked ingredients. The slightly austere white brick interiors are compensated for by the kitchen’s colourful creations. The staff are casual, quick and eager to make your visit a memorable one, as are the musicians performing live on Fri & Sat nights from 20:00-22:00.QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11 (entrance from Pl. Teatralny), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 506 10 00 01, www.momu.pl. Open 13:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-24:00. €€€. ToE6 87

Casual | Dining Namaste India utensils Indian What began as a modest Indian-owned grocery store almost two decades ago has developed into multiple full-service restaurants. This - the expanded original location - remains the consensus best Indian food in the capital, just ask anyone who lives here. The prices are set so low you can’t help but wonder what’s the catch - there isn’t one; we’ve tried the entire menu and it’s all delicious. Plus, it's extensive, with plenty of options for those who love spicy or sweet, warm naan or mouth-watering roti, delicious fried rice and fluffy samosas, or more. Your favorite indian food is here! Consider ringing ahead for takeaway because waiting times can be torture and ask about booking their private room for parties and meetings.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. Open 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. €€. T

PRIMITIVO Kuchnia i Wino

NEW utensils Mediterranean An original take on Mediterranean cuisine, with a focus on simplicity that lets the high quality ingredients and expert preparation shine. Plus, the biggest Primitivo wine collection means you can experience the top-shelf wine (with roots in Croatia

and Italy) as you enjoy your meal. The dishes come from the Mediterranean basin and other ingredients are locally sourced. Chefs focus on 3-ingredient dishes that allow them to highlight the expert preparation and quality food. The restaurant design itself is also a huge attraction. With muted, earthy tones and wood, stone, ceramic and glass elements in the design, Primitivo is reminiscent not only of the earth and the natural world, but also of some of the most sought-after dining experiences around the globe (this one is for the foodies: the restaurant was modeled after famed Copenhagen restaurant NOMA).QD‑7, ul. Waliców 13, tel. (+48) 606 444 462, www.primitivo.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. TS6U

Specjały Regionalne utensils Polish Famed for their ecological, locally-sourced ingredients, the reasonably-sized portions and affordable prices have long made this an ideal place to sample a range of traditional Polish dishes, and their deli allows you to take many of their flavours home with you. This isn't any old Polish food -- it's delectable and tasty and made very well. They also regularly host events, including folk music concerts, presentations on Polish history, special food and

Vegan & Vegetarian As the capital of a country that traditionally feasts on meat, and smears lard on bread as a snack, you might be surprised to learn that in 2021 National Geographic named Warsaw the top city for vegans in the world. Bliski Wschód Vege Street Food & Cocktail Bar If you’re one to think flavor only comes from dishes with meat, let Bliski Wschód dispell that notion right now. This all-vegetarian restaurant packs a flavor punch with meals inspired by cuisines of Lebanon, Turkey, Israel, Tunisia and Egypt. And while you dine on a savory halloumi burger or a crispy bite of falafel, you can admire the gorgeous interior, with delightful design elements that add to the overall atmosphere of the Middle Eastern space. Plus, there are two levels and VIP rooms for smaller parties, so you can plan events or hold gettogethers here! If you like to have shisha, this is also the spot, as it has an extensive sisha menu done in an unusual way. QUl. Złota 11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 668 01 69 79, www.bliskiwschodvege.pl. Open 12:00–22:00; Mon 12:00–21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00–23:00; Sun 12:00–21:00. €€. XoS6U 88

Lokal Vegan Bistro This humble restaurant run by the ‘Margins’ Social Cooperative has achieved what not long ago was considered by many to be inconceivable: their hearty vegan variations of traditional Polish dishes are as, if not more, delicious than their meat-and-egg-based counterparts. That’s quite an accomplishment in a country that fed itself in ‘milk bars’ not so long ago. Alongside seitan, soy and cabbage ‘cutlets’ on their frequently changing menu, you’ll also find vegan versions of popular dishes from international cuisines, plus a few surprises. Large portions, fresh ingredients and low prices make this a great option for a healthy meal, but it’s also a great place to connect with Warsaw’s activist communities.QG‑9, ul. Krucza 23/31, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 517 61 51 22, www. lokalveganbistro.pl. Open 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:0020:00. €€. TU6

Dining | Casual alcohol tastings, and pierogi workshops; contact them to reserve. Also at ul. Gagarina 4 and ul. Dąbrowskiego 3 (Mokotów), and ul. Płochocińska 195 (Białołęka), with multiple shops and delis across Warsaw.QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 44, tel. (+48) 662 25 42 15, www.specjalyregionalne.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00. €€. XTS6

Syrena Irena utensils Polish When it comes to really good, really modern Polish food, you have to know where to look and this is the place to start. By focusing on excellent handcrafted pierogi, the chefs have honed their craft to a science. Find a variety of pierogi you won’t find elsewhere - sour cheese and orange, white sausage and marjoram - and then customize that order with any number of toppings from caramalized onion to “mermaid sauce.” This spot has a ton of little modern touches, from the art to the neon signs to the high ceilings. QKrakowskie Przedmieście 4/6, tel. (+48) 535 851 991. Open 12:00-20:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00. €€. Uo6

The Alchemist Poznańska utensils International We’ve always loved The Alchemist for their craft beer and cocktail chemistry, but these days the real reason to visit is their award-winning food. While you can get gourmet interpretations of Polish standards, fresh seafood and bar classics like burgers and fish & chips, their specialty is juicy steaks served on hot lava plates, and they have quite the offering! There are tons of different steaks to try, all done very well with gorgeous presentation. The presentation is as sleek and pleasing as the interior design. Perfect for a business lunch, after-work drink, social gathering, romantic date. Also at Grzybowska 5A (p.97).QF‑9, ul. Poznańska 16, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 628 00 23, www.thealchemist.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:0024:00. €€€. T6U

U Barssa utensils Polish The Old Town is packed with places to eat, but this is one of the few truly great. As you walk from the market square into the elegant dining room, you will discover a world of luxury, craft and privilege. The signature duck baked with beetroot, fried apples and cranberry sauce, and the Angus steak with green pepper are just two of the winning dishes on the menu, not to mention the outstanding wine list. Call ahead to reserve your space.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 12/14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 24 76, www.ubarssa.pl. Open 11:00-22:00. €€€€. XTE6 89

Fine dining The food at Hala Koszyki (and its Instagrammability) is top-notch! (p.95).

If you want to splash out on some of Warsaw's finest cuisine, we definitely have you covered - testing the food was our pleasure. Whether you're looking for the right venue to impress a potential client, romantic partner or celebrate any kind of special moment, the following pages will keep you right. Bear in mind that reservations are almost essential in any of these venues.

Elixir by Dom Wódki

KUK Restaurant by Maciej Majewski

utensils Polish Top marks to the masterminds behind this classy establishment. At their Vodka Atelier, you can try some 800 vodkas from around Poland and the globe; the range goes from PRL era classics to Polish 'small batch’ distillers, designer vodkas, and flavoured vodkas. Also offered are six different types of Młody Ziemniak vodka (made from young potatoes) with varieties dating from 2017 (49 zł) to 2022 (25zł). The label of each tells you about the vintage and what the weather and climate were like during its production. The restaurant itself features stunningly presented takes on Polish classics with a unique food and vodka pairing system. This spot is an Absolut (pardon the pun!) top-spot and a truly unique venue on Warsaw’s culinary map. Check out their lunch offer from Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00. Kitchen open until 22:20QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 11, www.domwodki.pl. Open 12:0023:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€€. T

utensils Polish KUK embraces both a natural and local approach to its menu, with an international flair. Their dishes indulge the taste buds with a range of wholesome ingredients and products, all sourced from trusted crops and seasonal delights. KUK is part of the 18thcentury Branicki-Szaniawski complex (p.38), and the restaurant matches the Polish capital’s vibrance. For Chef Maciej Majewski this food is a celebration of time and cuisine, where imagination knows no bounds, and exceptional dishes are a testament to that philosophy. He embraces the ‘neobistro’ style of dining with a haute cuisine approach. The result is an imaginative and open-minded approach to crafting one-of-a-kind culinary compositions, presented to you to share, experience, and connect over an array of small, yet numerous portions. Kitchen open until 22:00!Qul. Miodowa 6/8, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 511 46 46 45, www.hotelverte.com/kuk. Open 12:00-22:00. €€€€. XTUE6

Dining | Upscale Nova Wola utensils Polish Garnering the Grand Award (that is, 5 forks) from the prestigious gastronomic list of Poland 100 Best Restaurants, Nova Wola nails the concept of ‘premium casual’ dining. Located in the luxury Crowne Plaza Hotel, Nova Wola is complete with an industrial chic interior of polished concrete, dark woods, gold furnishings, lots of glass and big city views. The menu emphasizes simple plates made with high-quality ingredients sourced from local Polish suppliers and foraged in the wild. Local culinary traditions with contemporary flair offer you a choice of rich soups, premium Polish seasoned beef steaks, fish, an, a special seasonal menu. This upscale approach with a relaxed, sociable atmosphere makes Nova Wola ideal for any event. Na zdrowie! Read about Nova Wola’s breakfast on p.82.QC‑8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 377 38 01, www.novawola.com. Open 12:30-16:00, 17:00-22:30. €€€. TU

Prime Cut utensils International True culinary innovation exists at Prime Cut, with a unique fusion of New York classics and European flair and a passion for simple yet exquisitely prepared dishes that boast the finest quality ingredients that ensure every bite is a testament to good taste. One of several gastronomic concepts located in Elektrownia Powiśle (p.94), you will enjoy the finest steaks, fresh seafood, and seasonal vegetables. The elegant ambiance, featuring VIP rooms, is perfect for business gatherings or social occasions, while the Cigar Room offers a timeless haven for aficionados to enjoy the world’s finest cigars amidst a rich tapestry of history. Also located at ul. Twarda 18 (E-7).QI‑6, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 43B, tel. (+48) 730 30 00 65, www.primecut.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 14:00-24:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. €€€. XTU

ROXX Warsaw Steaks and Seafood utensils European A culinary gem located in the heart of the capital, This exceptional restaurant, with its surprising flavors, extensive menu, and diverse selection of wines and original cocktails, sets itself apart. ROXX Warsaw is more than just a restaurant - this versatile all-day operation features a menu of iconic pan-European dishes (steaks, seafood, surf&turf and danishes) infused with a modern twist. The addition of a romantic cafe and stylish bar, all within a luxurious art-deco style interior, make for an unforgettable dining experience. The imaginative culinary offer is complemented by a carefully-curated 91

Upscale | Dining

INTERNATIONAL CUISINE IN THE HEART OF WARSAW

liquor list, which makes ROXX the perfect spot to savour your favourite wine or cocktail in Warsaw’s vibrant bar area. The year-round heated terrace allows guests to enjoy the enchanting surroundings. Whether you’re indulging in delicious weekend brunch or a romantic dinner, ROXX promises a unique experience and a must-visit in Warsaw’s culinary scene. QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 420 32 23, www.roxx.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri 12:0001:00; Sat 09:00-01:00; Sun 09:00-22:00. Closed on Mon till the end of February. €€€€. Xo6

STIXX Bar & Grill utensils International With a prime-cut menu and year-round terrace with stunning views of the capital skyline, there’s a reason why STIXX Bar & Grill is considered the premier destination for unforgettable dining experiences and corporate events in Warsaw! This high-flyin’ restaurant is blessed with a international team of skilled chefs, ready to take you on a culinary adventure around the world. For this reason, you’ll find a mouthwatering array of Wagyu beef, tuna tartare, moules in white wine, and the pride and joy of the menu - STIXX’s dry-aged, tender, and crispy seasoned beef steaks! Each cut of meat is infused with exceptional flavour and aroma. Weekend DJ sets and a year-round terrace with stunning views of Warsaw, this is a captital gastro experience like no other!QC‑7, Pl. Europejski 4A, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 340 40 40, www.stixx.pl. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-02:00; closed Sun. €€€€€. oE

Strefa Restaurant & Bar

STREFA RESTAURACJA & BAR UL. PRÓŻNA 9, 00-107 WARSZAWA

+48 22 255 08 50 | STREFA@RESTAURACJASTREFA.PL WWW.RESTAURACJASTREFA.PL FACEBOOK/RESTAURACJASTREFA INSTAGRAM/RESTAURACJA_STREFA

utensils International Nestled within a meticulously restored pre-war tenement house, Strefa effortlessly combines the finest of the gastronomic arts with an elegant decor, and a warm, inviting ambiance, that exudes a timeless charm. With an emphasis on authentic recipes, the menu masterfully blends contemporary culinary trends with traditional flavors, offering a diverse array of global cuisine with a Polish twist. Renowned for its expertise in fish and seafood dishes, Strefa’s exceptional culinary creations are expertly complemented by an extensive wine selection curated by top sommeliers. Moreover, the restaurant’s bar features a superb collection of world-class spirits. From its award-winning exterior to the stylishly modern interiors, every detail at Strefa exudes sophistication and elegance, making it a destination of choice for discerning diners.QE‑7, ul. Próżna 9, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 255 08 50, www.restauracjastrefa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0020:00. €€€€. TUo6

Dining | Upscale Thai Thai utensils Thai Run by Warsaw’s Godfather of Thai cuisine, Surachart Urajaroen, this restaurant is 100% the real deal. The Thai kitchen team stick firmly to tradition, and the spectacular results have earned a Thai Select certificate. Inside the National Theatre, the exterior of hefty, grey stonework gives no inkling of the opulence that awaits. Black walls with Thai designs and gold archways create a calming environment. The dining area also offers several more private spaces, great for business meetings or intimate dinner dates. Business lunch is served Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 for 45zł. Get there a little early - the kitchen closes 30 min. before the restaurant!QF‑5, Pl. Teatralny 3, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 601 81 82 83, www.thaithai.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. XT

U Fukiera utensils Polish Warsaw’s oldest and most famous restaurant, with a tradition going all the way back to the 16th century. Under the star stewardship of Magda Gessler (of Polish MasterChef fame), this enchanting establishment’s interior is a work of art, bedecked with oil paintings and ornate antiques, creating a fantastic ambience. It’s easy to feel like you’re a part of history when dining here, and the guestbook - with names like Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson - suggests that indeed you are. Right on the Old Town Square, enjoy the delicious, perfectlypresented food and soak up the regal atmosphere. QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 600 99 99 33, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:0023:00. €€€€. T6

Wabu Sushi & Japanese Tapas utensils Japanese It’s nice to experience exclusive dining in the Japanese Izakaya style (informal eating). Wabu is very much a place for all types of people, from businessmen to couples to tourists and even families, so relax and enjoy. The interior is a minimal and elegantly unfussy gem, that blends in nicely with its modern surroundings on Plac Europejski. The menu is extensive and diverse, and includes a special menu for kids, and a mighty lunch offer (Mon-Fri 12:0015:00, soup and 8 pieces of sushi for 49zł). Simple and elegant, Wabu has our hearty endorsement.QC‑7, Plac Europejski 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 668 92 59 59, www.wabu.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. TU6 93

Food Markets Elektrownia Powiśle’s beloved food hall offers a variety of international cuisines and plenty of drink options.

The popularity of street food and fast gastro concepts has led to an explosion of food markets and indoor dining halls in Warsaw, offering dozens of diverse eating options. Not only a place to slay your hunger, these modern food markets are also trendsetting urban social spaces, featuring bars and hosting events.

Elektrownia Powiśle Food Hall

Food Hall Browary

From the outside, it’s obvious that this former power station (p.52) has been given a new boost of energy following a major overhaul. Going beyond an upscale urban shopping mall, Elektrownia also contains a whole host of gastro eateries, bars and event spaces. This central food court allows you to choose anything from fries, hot dogs, dim sum dumplings, kebabs, pizza, sushi, curries, Vietnamese, waffles and San Francisco street food. Additionally, there are several more restaurants in the office buildings opposite! You’re spoilt for choice, so let your mood and budget decide (not easy!). Once you’re done dining, check out their five bars, and also keep a regular eye on their events calendar so you don’t miss hip foodie happenings like their ‘Eko Targ’ (Eco Market), selling GMO-free locally-grown produce.QH‑6, ul. Zajęcza 2B, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00. U6

Occupying a large, brick-walled space in the historic Brewery Cellars, this impressive food hall is arguably the social centre of the Browary Warszawskie district (p.28). With 11 different contemporary food concepts to choose from - ranging from Silk & Spicy’s authentic Thai cuisine to Dziurka od Klucza’s new panozzo sandwich venture, ‘a’Panu occo?!’ - there are plenty of enticing options, including special breakfast and lunch offers. The focal points are the impressively long Central Bar - well-stocked with beer, fine wine, and cool cocktails courtesy of legendary local bartender Karim Bibars, and the small stage which hosts DJs, bands and a range of thematic events. Grab a seat at a communal table, a plate of good food, and get socialising.QC‑7, ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2 (Browary Warszawskie), MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.foodhallbrowary.pl. Open 12:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00.

Dining | Food Markets Hala Koszyki

Ogrody Ulricha

This historic Art Nouveau market hall originally opened in 1906, but was renovated, redeveloped into a modern mixed-use facility full of bars, restaurants, bookstores and designer boutiques, and reopened in 2016 (p.16). Smashingly popular, drop in to the ground floor dining area to choose from dozens of diverse options, ranging from top-class independent bistros - like Sobremesa Tapas Bar, Port Royal and Zachodni Brzeg - to some of Warsaw’s top name gastro brands, like Ćma and Warszawski Sen. If you want a variety of casual, tasty food, this is the place to go, with everything from fries to burgers to gelato. But there are fancier options to choose from, too (oysters and pizza are easily found and they are a must). This is one of THE places to be seen in the capital - easily accomplished thanks to the open floor plan - sometimes the place is so packed that mere availability and access dictate which places inside that you’re able to patronage. Even if you can’t find a table at any of the cool eateries and bars, we urge you to spend some time taking in this stunning market hall, which also features shops downstairs and space for cultural events upstairs. Don’t forget to look up, down and sideways as beautiful details abound!QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00-01:00. XTU6

Located in the lush green parkland of Warsaw’s Wola District, Ogrody Ulricha (Ulrich Gardens) is a collection of revitalised 19th-century buildings and grounds - the Ulrich Greenhouses and Park, the Daily Garden, Ulrich’s Villa and the Green Cottage - all revived as a charming community complex with the spirit and nostalgia of a bygone era. Once housing a collection of otherworldly plant life, one of two Greenhouses now houses the all-important gastro zone, with 2 central bars, 2 gastronomic points and 6 restaurant concepts. Not only limited to the indoors, the parkland outside will also be made available for those choosing to dine in the open air. Keep in mind, however, that Ogrody Ulricha is not only for dining and drinking. Live music and theatre are set to become common place. In summer, children, young families and the young-at-heart can roll around on the grass outside and take in the green surroundings. While it may have an old soul, Ogrody Ulricha has been amended with modern resources and a 21st-century mindset, continuing the story of this historic area and doing what it has always done best - serving the community as a vibrant public space!Qul. Górczewska 124, MM2, Ulrychów, tel. +48 22 533 40 00, www.ogrodyulricha.pl. Open 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. TU

Hala Koszyki’s phenomenal urban dining offer - international restaurants, bars cafés and more!

The Roots astounds with delicious cocktails (and killer presentation) p. 102.

Nightlife in Warsaw In Warsaw you’re never far from a great night out. If the weather’s warm, simply head to the river. Elsewhere skint students patronise the dive bars of The Pavilions (G-7, courtyards of ul. Nowy Świat 22/28); for a more mature alternative crowd seek out the artsy bars across the river in Praga (p.60); for a lark with the lads, hit the party strip on ul. Mazowiecka (F-6/7). In practice, bars will stay open well past their given hours if business is good, but also bolt the doors early if not. Visit our website to refine your search and see more reviews. Na zdrowie (cheers!)! 96

Nightlife | Featured

Enklawa Art & Music Club Club A living legend of the Polish capital that always has a finger on the pulse, Enklawa, located in the very heart of Warsaw, has spent the last 20 years hosting some of the city’s wildest cult dance parties, and, even today, it continues to provide a calendar of hotly-pursued events. Starting on Wednesdays and operating over four nights of the week, this classy premises exudes style and modernity, and its spacious rooms are brought to life every evening with the highest quality sound and lighting systems on offer. With a diverse music cycle that keeps both locals and visitors coming back to be in a space of non-stop good vibes, there’s a reason why Enklawa tops the list as one of Warsaw’s most popular clubs. Don’t believe the hype? Stop by some time and we’ll see you on the dance floor! QF‑6, ul. Mazowiecka 12, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 606 31 11 17, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed, Thu 22:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 22:00-06:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. XUE

The Alchemist Grzybowska Cocktail Bar If you're in the market for craft beer, delicious and funky cocktails you won't find elsewhere (as well as the classics you already love), and an atmosphere that can't be beat, then The Alchemist is up your alley. This spot is the second of two popular Alchemist venues (p.89) and we can promise this is one worth stopping by with friends on a Friday night (or really any night). Inside you'll find an eclectic venue with wild wall murals, plants, and a fun, relaxed vibe. Kick back with one of their premium craft cocktails - the list includes everything from the pineapple/vodka "Witcher Elixer" to the rum-forward "Kraken Manhattan" or choose your own from the extensive liquor list. Of course, there is great food here to enjoy with your drink, including classic pub grub like burgers and and fries, and nicer dishes like filet mignon and bruschetta. This is the perfect evening out! QE‑7, ul. Grzybowska 5A, MSwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 628 00 23, www.thealchemist.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. o6

Bars & Clubs Enklawa is where Warsaw finds its rhythm. (p.97).

3/4 Koneser Bar

AURA Bar

Cocktail Bar If you’re eager to experience Polish vodka the right way (sip, don’t shoot!), go straight to the source. Located on the 3rd floor of the Polish Vodka Museum (p.61), this spectacular bar makes dozens of their own artisanal alcohol infusions - earl grey, beetroot and lemoncake are just a few of their surprising and constantly changing flavours. Sip them straight or in delicious modern cocktails inside the refined post-industrial interior that transports you back to Warsaw’s interwar glory days. The lovely seasonal terrace offers great views of the heart of Praga and they also host live music from time to time. Na zdrowie!QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 1, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 52, www. koneserbar.com/. Open 16:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 16:0001:00; closed Mon. Subject to change. Uo6

Cocktail Bar Chances are you wouldn’t find this place on your own, which is why you should seek it out! Though hardly bigger than a bedroom, the locals are eager to squeeze into this corner bar located in a lovely pre-war residential building. With high ceilings and a beautiful design of oriental patterns, warm lighting and brass fixtures, Aura has a real glow to it and a friendly neighbourhood vibe. What sets it apart however, is the huge selection of bourbons. This is the kind of place where the drinks come in tumblers and the seasonal cocktails are as delicious as the atmosphere. If an ‘Old-Fashioned’ is your go-to bar order, this is your go-to bar, where they serve 11 unique varieties of the classic drink. Refreshingly relaxed, but clearly refined, great things come in small packages.QG‑9, ul. Hoża 27, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 576 36 73 79. Open 17:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-02:00. o6

Symbol Key Category

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

C‑1 Map Coordinate

U Facilities for the disabled

o Year-round Garden

M Metro

X Smoking room available

6 Animal friendly

Nightlife | Bars & Clubs Cuda na Kiju Cocktail Bar Housed in the former communist party HQ, just next to the statue of General Charles De Gaulle, this 3-level bar was Warsaw’s first multi-tap and boasts an impressive 16 taps pouring craft beers from around Poland and Europe, plus pizza for your late-night feed. The interior design is unobtrusive and kept to a minimum, making for a nice and airy atmosphere, and features three outdoor seating areas. The owners should really be given a special prize for this brilliant initiative; instead, in true Warsaw tradition, they quickly got dozens of copycat bars. Still, we stay true to our first-love multi-tap bar.QH‑8, ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 784 48 97 27. Open 12:00-00:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00.E Cocktail Bar Moody and elegant, this sophisticated cocktail bar serves signature drinks with flair. The imaginative menu of classic and modern mixed drinks changes seasonally; during our recent visit the sci-fi/space exploration theme featured delicious drinks with names like ‘Enter the Void’ and ‘Haiku’ and the range of unique ingredients included nutella liqueur, agave nectar, bison grass absinthe and pomegranate tincture. These alcohol alchemists even make their own flavoured gin (cleverly named ‘Gin Dobry’), which you simply must sample by ordering a classic G&T. Also on the menu: wine, craft beer, and antipasti boards. Ring the doorbell to be admitted. QG‑7, ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 507 45 64 47. Open 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:0001:00; closed Mon. o6

POLISH CUISINE

El Koktel

Kufle i Kapsle Multitap Bar The name ‘Kufle i Kapsle’ means ‘Beer Mugs and Bottlecaps’ and the interior is a perfect blend of European traditional bar design mingling with Polish features, such as the large tiled heater in the back room. Twenty taps are on offer and the bottled beer selection has more variety than a Glaswegian glass recycling bin! An delightful selection of bar snacks are also available, as are wine/prosecco options and some liquor. In contrast to many other local bars, expect it to be packed and buzzing from around 17:00 (online reservations possible). 2nd location nearby at ul. Nowy Świat 27 (G-7) but with diferent hours -- so check the website!QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 25, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 886 78 09 37, www. kufleikapsle.pl. Open 15:00-02:00; Fri 15:00-4:00; Sat 14:00-04:00; Sun 14:00-2:00. o6 99

Bars & Clubs | Nightlife

Pepper Events turns a regular party into an all-out blast in a stunning space.

Le Cabaret Jazz Bistro

Pepper Events

Jazz Located in the heart of Warsaw, near Plac Trzech Krzyży, Le Cabaret Jazz Bistro is a wonderful, elegant location for dates, friend gatherings and even company meetings. There are - of course - delicious drinks as well as an excellent food menu, with both Polish and international dishes. Hidden in the basement of the restaurant and bar area is a club with plenty of live music in a chic, intimate space. Come listen to music, watch a burlesque show, hear standup, take in some poetry... the options are endless and consistently enjoyable! This is the place to dance away the winter blues.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 4, MCentrum, tel. +48 536 97 64 03. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri 12:00-02:00; Sat 10:00-02:00; Sun 10:00-24:00. €€. TUE6

Club Making its presence known in the Polish capital’s urban jungle, the anomaly that is Pepper Events adds an exotic flair to the higher-class venues of Warsaw. The unique, sophisticated space includes both a euphoric club scene and a restaurant with an indulgent food menu. That’s all amplified with a stunning year-round garden and cocktail bar of the highest calibre, making it an ideal space for an intimate business meeting, a banquet, a product presentation, a large corporate event or even bachelor/bachelorette parties.QF‑9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 06 80 68, www.peppernight.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. oE

Myata Lounge

Cocktail Bar A fabulous addition to Warsaw’s Polish Vodka Museum (p.61), Setki Powodów (Hundreds of Reasons) guarantees musical feasts, dishes out of this world, drinks poured from the stick, and an almost-constant program of grooving live music indie rock, jazz, hip hop, experimental, and much more! Furnished in a style reminiscent of the nearby Neon Museum (p.62), this Praga nightspot shows off a concise list of cocktails, flanked by a string of other ‘reasons’ to come here. Consume as you wish, and enjoy the small-but-punchy live music stage in the corner.QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 511 69 29 63, www.muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl. Open Tue, Wed 12:0022:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-21:00; closed Mon. UE

Cocktail Bar Relaxed & business-appropriate during the day, Myata’s sleek, modern interior full of plush love seats is the scene of weekend parties and awesome live music that no one in Warsaw can match in quite the same way. Backed up by an exquisite European food menu, high-quality shisha, and an enticing list of classic and original cocktails, Myata has developed a crowd of devoted regulars that make the place special. The menu ranges from wasabi shrimp and teriyaki salmon to burgers, and they offer almost 300(!) flavours of shisha. There’s live music every Sunday from 21:00.QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 6, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 534 72 73 25, www.myatawarszawa.tilda.ws/. Open 12:00-01:00; Fri 12:00-04:00; Sat 14:00-04:00; Sun 14:00-01:00. XE 100

Setki Powodów

Nightlife | Bars & Clubs Smolna Club This bunker club based on the Berlin techno model is situated in a grand old City Centre townhouse, just seconds away from the ‘Palm Tree’ (p.49). The music delves into the diverse, murky depths of electronica and the organisers are pretty radical, so you never know what kind of musical journey they’ll take you on. Three dancefloors - including one poutdoors (the neighbours love that one), three bars and a chillout room make up this hugely popular venue. Keeping things enigmatic and secretive, they have a strict ‘no photos/no smartphone’ policy and pretty cryptic marketing campaigns so you know they’re serious. Expect queues at the entrance, but the door policy seems to be in place simply to keep out aggressive yobos and anyone with a camera around their neck. QH‑8, ul. Smolna 38, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, www.facebook.com/smolna38. Open Fri, Sat 23:0008:00 only.

Teatro Cubano Club What’s that warm Caribbean breeze blowing through the centre of Warsaw? Must the blast of fresh air emanating from this sultry, rhythmic Cuban lounge and dance club. With giant palms flanking the entrance, as you enter you are enveloped by the joyful vibes and vibrant blues and yellows of this huge, spacious club with high ceilings and a massive bar at its centre, behind which is the large stage which regularly hosts international touring acts and DJs mixing Latino and pop music. Attracting a young, international crowd of students, locals and travellers, and this boisterous club embraces it. Stop by!QF‑5, ul. Fredry 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 538 19 44 94, www.teatrocubano.com. Open 22:00-3:00; Thu 22:0004:00; Fri, Sat 22:00-05:00; XE

The Alchemist Poznańska Cocktail Bar This newer spot offers award-winning food, craft beers, cocktail chemistry and more, along with two bars, one in a VIP room. While you can enjoy great food here (check out p.89), for those craving the nightlife over the food, this is definitely the spot, too. Cocktails include wild pink drinks with cotton candy, a bath-themed cocktail and more. Of course, there are the more classic drinks as well, but the point is. they all taste amazing. Perfect for a date, catching up with friends, or the most Instagram-worthy birthday you can have this side of the Vistula. Also at ul. Grzybowska 5A.QF‑9, ul. Poznańska 16, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 628 00 23, www.thealchemist.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. 6 101

Bars & Clubs | Nightlife The Roof

UPPER DECK Wine & Cocktail Bar

Cocktail Bar Perched on the 21st floor of Warsaw - The HUB, with an enchanting outdoor terrace and panoramic views of Warsaw’s city centre, The Roof offers a captivating setting for enjoying drinks, live music, a delightful dinner, or gathering with friends. A truly sky-high experience, the stunning vistas of the city are perfectly complemented by the bar offer, which invites visitors to explore the exciting and diverse selection of cocktails, and unique concoctions that have been curated to reflect the extraordinary essence of Warsaw’s skyline and capture the spirit of the city in every sip. In line with the Crowne Plaza Hotel, the prestigious name that looks after this magical nest, The Roof floor boasts stylish interiors that contribute to its wonderfully sophisticated atmosphere. The sights are further enhanced by a range of acoustic performances and intimate cultural events that are hosted here, creating an ambience that fosters both relaxation and engagement.

Cocktail Bar Sophisticated, atmospheric andcontemporary, Upper Deck lives up on the perch of Warsaw’s historic food hall, Hala Koszyki (p.16), located in the center of the city. This spot, with warm lighting, sparkling, smoky cocktails and delightful jazz music, offers a exceptional experience for those seeking original cocktails and tasty wines. The wines are the best of the best, with an impressive selection of over 70 different labels available at attractive prices, all selected by experienced sommeliers. Self-described as having a ‘jazz soul’, live music is an important part of the atmosphere, especially the kind that anchors around double basses and saxophones, and quite frankly, that kind of thing complements wine and cocktails perfectly, not to mention that it makes for an enchanting atmosphere. Live music makes for an enchanting experience.

Whether you are seeking a memorable night out, a place to enjoy live music, or a spot to savour enticing cocktails while taking in the breathtaking views, this is the one place in Warsaw you need to experience! Qul. Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. +48 881 97 41 44, www.theroofskybar.com. Open 18:00-01:00. UE6

The ROOTS Cocktail Bar & more Cocktail Bar While the cocktail revolution continues to shake and stir up Warsaw’s drinking habits, some places manage to stand out from the crowd. The ROOTS has secured a very special place in the hearts of serious cocktail devotees, both local and international. For starters, the bar is a shrine to the noble art of being a barman/mixologist, and you should definitely check out their intriguing collection of vintage and antique ‘tools of the trade’ – the collection of mixers alone already stands at nearly 100 items! Add to this a library of antiquarian books on the subject of bartending/cocktail mixing and you know you are dealing with some hardcore and very scholarly mixologists. ROOTS is so well-versed in the art of making cocktails, they have enough tricks for two great menus - one featuring classics of the trade and another which presents signature drinks based on seasonal regional flavours. Food is also available in the form of a Polish fusion menu.QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 660 333 983, www. therootsbar.com. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri 17:00-02:00; Sat 14:00-02:00; closed Mon, Sun. 6 102

Keep in mind that the entire establishment can be reserved for gatherings of 40-90 people, making it an ideal choice for hosting training sessions complete with multimedia presentation equipment, as well as business meetings, and other events. Located on the mezzanine, easy access is available via stairs or elevator to the first floor. Once you're done sipping cocktails, wander throughout the rest of the Hala Koszyki space -- there's so much to see and do!QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), tel. (+48) 507 66 39 75. Open 14:00-22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 14:0001:00; closed Sun. E

Whiskey in the Jar Cocktail Bar First opened in Poznań in 2013, Whiskey in the Jar is now something of a Polish institution, boasting locations in several cities, including this glorious one in the centre of Warsaw. Known primarily for its steaks, rock n’ roll aesthetic, live concerts (Thu-Sat from 20:00), and live DJ performances (Every other Saturday from 20:00), it might be easy to chalk this up as just the Polish take on a certain international chain, yet WITJ exudes authenticity and is very much a passion project for the team behind it. So while you’ll get choice cuts of seasoned steaks, mouthwatering burgers, a wide selection of craft beers and the eponymous whiskey served in jars, there are also traditional Polish touches here and there - plus the possibility that a Harley might tear through the place at any moment! American ex-pats, this is a place to check out for fun!QG‑10, ul. Marszałkowska 53, MPolitechnika tel. (+48) 798 80 56 18, www.whiskeyinthejar.pl. Open 13:00-23:00; Mon, Tue 13:00-22:30; Sun 13:00-21:00. 6EU

Nightlife | Bars & Clubs

103

Poland’s iconic Bolesławiec ceramics, available at the official store, Zakłady Ceramiczne Bolesławiec (p.108).

Shopping in Warsaw Warsaw offers a wide diversity of shopping experiences, from old school markets to luxury boutiques (primarily along ul. Nowy Świat and ul. Mokotowska: G-7, H-8/9) to some of Central Europe’s most modern shopping malls. For visitors, it’s an opportunity to shop exclusive designer brands, catch bargains on known commodities or find forgotten treasures. Happy hunting! 104

Shopping

Alcohol & Tobacco Alembik If you’ve just come out of the Polish Vodka Museum in Centrum Praskie Koneser (p.14) with a new appreciation for Poland’s national drink, then right around the corner, in the same building, you will find Alembik, a small but impressively stocked shop where you can purchase your very own vodkas. Here you will find Polish brands such as Luksusowa and Wyborowa, but not only, as they also sell premium whiskeys, cognacs, rums, gins and champagnes. For those with deeper pockets, there is also the opportunity to shop in private in their cosy 2nd room, where you can also enjoy tasting some exclusive products. Classy.QK‑2/3, Plac Konesera 1, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 513 28 92 60, www. alembik.com.pl. Open 12:00-20:00; closed Mon, Sun.

Amber & Jewellery Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line This gorgeous gallery specialises in luxury handcrafted jewellery of the amber variety, but crystal, silver and gold items can be purchased here too. This is the location of the largest and oldest amber dealer in the city, a family run business going back to 1988, proudly selling amber of Polish origin - certified by the International Amber Association. Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line. Even heads of State and royalty have been spotted procuring presents here, from Bill Clinton to Japanese princesses (whose thank you letters you can see inside)! Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top designers.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 69 61, www.warsawamber.pl. Open 11:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-17:00.

Lilou A phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components to create a unique and personalised piece. The range continues to grow, with the original luxury charm bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes, then have it hand-engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you. A ‘musthave’ item amongst local celebs and fashionistas. Also at ul. Francuska 27 (L-7), Westfield Arkadia (B/C-2), Galeria Mokotów, Sadyba Best Mall and Centrum Handlowe Janki.QH‑9, ul. Mokotowska 63, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 506 19 08 97, www.lilouparis.com. Open 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00*. 105

Shopping

Fashion & Accessories

Gifts & Souvenirs

RISK made in warsaw

E-Manufaktura

Founded in 2011 by two friends, RISK Made in Warsaw embodies the concept of ethical fashion done well. From flattering dresses to flowy shirts, chic jackets and more, there literally something for everyone here. The founders say they view clothing in three parts: the materials, the way they're made, and how they make you feel. And all three of those aspects are focuses of RISK. With gorgeous silhouettes for people of all shapes and sizes, as well as precise tailoring, the clothes are guaranteed to make the wearer feel their most confident and beautiful. The patterns, too, are gorgeous and meaningful including prints designed based on (for example) traditional Łowicz folk costumes. Another popular print is taken from a typical floor tile design found in old Warsaw tenament homes, making a gorgeous, architectural pattern. Other prints are reminiscent of traditional colors and styles found in countries around South America and Africa. Not only that, but they work with Polish designers who are niche and unique, and their clothing is sewn in Poland using environmentally friendly products and biodegradable materials. The founders say they eschew the typical fast fashion model in favor of production that is hyper-local, and that definitely shows. The clothing itself is created using ecofriendly, low-waste methods. This is ethical fashion at its finest and most stunning! !QUl. Szpitalna 6A, tel. (+48) 882 12 14 44, www.riskmadeinwarsaw.com/pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-19:00.

It’s sometimes hard to find that perfect gift from Poland to take back home with you. We understand the problem, and it may be the case you get home, only to regret not having bought that sweet little tea cup you had your eye on. Now this is why we whole heartedly recommend E-Manufaktura, which is not only a shop in Warsaw, but also an online shop for you to look through an extensive catalogue in the comfort of your home. From egg cups, plates, bowls, and all other kitchenware you can think of, you’ll find it here! The famous hand-painted ceramics, Bolesławiec, make up the core of what’s on offer. It doesn’t get more Polish than this. A must-use service. QF‑3, ul. Freta 14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 636 06 84, www.e-manufaktura.com. Open 10:00-18:00.

Food & Sweets E. Wedel Chocolate Lounge “OldFashioned Shop” Wedel is the country’s longest established chocolate manufacturer and one of the best known brands in Poland. A true Polish legend that’s been operating since Karol Wedel first opened a chocolate factory in ul. Szpitalna in 1851. Here you’ll be able to find all manner of chocolate treats, whether for yourself or as a gift for someone. Be careful when entering: chocolate comas are inevitable and you will likely want to try everything they have to offer.. Try their other locations on Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, Ul. Piękna 18, Ul. Zamoyskiego 36, Ul. Złota Street 59/135, 1 Konesera Square, Ul Freta 13/15, Ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45 QG‑7, ul. Szpitalna 8, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 827 29 16, www. wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-21:00. 106

Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki Of all Polish gifts, none are as visually exciting as Bolesławiec pottery. At Pomaluj.art you not only get the chance to buy gifts, but you can join workshops (offered Wed-Sat 14:00-20:00) to make and paint anything you want in the studio! The staff speak English and will teach you the history of Bolesławiec pottery during your session! QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 80 01 84, www.pomaluj. art. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Sun.

Smart Kids Store Smart Kids Store is an extension of the innovative educational center Smart Kids Planet (p.76), and a one-stop-shop that offers a wide range of products and services related to children’s education and development. The wide selection of educational toys and games, include interactive and STEMbased toys, puzzles, and games that are designed to support children’s cognitive development. The shop also offers a variety of art and craft supplies, which are perfect for encouraging children’s creativity and imagination. You can also find wide range of educational books, workbooks, and activity books along with a variety of educational software and apps!QD‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www. smartkidsstore.pl/. Open 11:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:0020:00. U

Zakłady Ceramiczne Bolesławiec The official store of Bolesławiec in Warsaw is an ideal place for buying traditional, high-quality, hand-decorated ceramics. A wide selection of dishes, accessories and decorative elements can

/bemylilou

Shopping be found here - as beautiful as they are durable and functional. Each element is hand-formed and then decorated with a unique stamping technique. Attention to detail, the characteristic shade of cobalt, and deep roots in tradition have made Bolesławiec ceramics known around the world.QD‑7, ul. Prosta 2/14, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 624 84 08, www. zakladyboleslawiec.com. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 09:0016:00; closed Sun.

Shopping Malls Designer Outlet Warszawa Set inside an impressive collection of buildings evoking the Baroque style of Warsaw’s Old Town, this is a premium outlet mall, with the interior that makes you feel like you’re walking through a fashion high street. Here you’ll find discounts ranging from 3070% off on brands like Adidas, Armani, Boss, Calvin Klein, Coccinelle, Gant, Guess, Furla, Karl Lagerfeld, Levi’s, Liu Jo, Longines, Luisa Spagnoli, Michael Kors, Nike, Pinko, Polo Ralph Lauren, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and more. Just 30mins from the city centre and 20mins from Chopin Airport, it’s easily reached by car and public transport (use a zone 2 ticket and get off at ‘Energetyczna 01’).Qul. Puławska 42E (Piaseczno), MWilanowska, tel. (+48) 22 737 31 15, www.designeroutletwarszawa.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00*. TU

Dom Mody KLIF Klif has been attracting fashion lovers for over 20 years, with locations across Poland. If you think you’ve seen this all before, however, you’re mistaken. This is the capital, after all, and the quality of brands is exceptionally high, not to mention the stunning

*Sunday Shopping in PL In its effort to get people out of shopping malls and into churches, the Polish government has imposed regulations preventing most businesses from opening their doors on Sundays. Of course, there are exceptions, including 7 special Sundays when shops are open each year, and the rules don’t apply to restaurants, bars, cafes, pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets, souvenir shops and anywhere the business owner is personally working behind the counter. When you see an asterisk* after the Sunday hours in our guide, that means the venue is closed on Sundays. Upcoming shopping Sundays: March 24 and April 28. 108

showrooms inside. Shop top tags like MaxMara, Elisabetta Franchi, PennyBlack, Michael Kors, Karl Lagerfeld and DM Moda, as well as respected mainstream brands like Olsen and S’Portofino. Another draw is the convenient, easy to get to location. What’s more, anyone can use the services of the pro stylists at FASHION STUDIO.QB‑4, ul. Okopowa 58/72, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 535 41 14 58, www.klif.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00*. Eurospar open Mon-Sat 08:30-22:00; Sun 09:00-20:00*.

Elektrownia Powiśle When Elektrownia Powiśle (p.52) opened, we can only say we were impressed. Once inside you realise it’s much bigger than you’d ever expect! So what’s here? Imagine this as a multifunctional centre, including sooped up shops completely new to Poland (nay, in Central and Eastern Europe even!), plenty more boutiques and shops including COS, Paprocki & Brzozowski, Urban Outfitters and more! Plus an awesome gastro and nightlife offer (p.94). You can shop until you drop, then pick yourself up with some great food.QH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Elektrownia open Mon-Sun 11:00-21:00 Food Hall open Sun-Thu 12:0023:00, Fri 12:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-24:00 Beauty Hall open Mon-Sat 08:00-20:00, Sun 10:00-19:00.

FACTORY Outlet Annopol This massive outlet mall is closer than you think! Save up to 70% on premium name brands like Adidas, Nike, Ecco, Medicine, Guess, Under Armour, Pepe Jeans, Marc O’Polo, Converse, Vans, Puma, Tefal, Tommy Hilfiger, Smyk, 4F, RTV Euro AGD and more. To get there take Metro M2 from ‘Świętokrzyska’ to ‘Bródno’ and then change to tram no. 1, 3, 4 or 25 and get off at ‘Toruńska’ or ‘Annopol’. Qul. Annopol 2 (Białołęka), tel. (+48) 22 441 90 00, www.annopol.factory.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:0020:00*. 6

FACTORY Outlet Ursus This outlet shopping mall southwest of the city centre is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over regular rack rates. Recognisable brands include Tommy Hilfiger, Marc’o Polo ,BOSS, Nike, Adidas, Guess, Calvin Klein, New Balance, Calzedonia, Lindt, Haribo, Tefal, Ochnik, Wittchen, and many more. One of the only such outlet centres in Europe, you can get there quickly by car or in about 30mins by train or bus.QPl. Czerwca 1976r. 6 (Ursus), tel. (+48) 22 478 22 70, www.ursus. factory.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00*. 6

CITYBREAK? Shopping break! 250 brands, always up to 70% off!

Factory Annopol ul. Annopol 2, Warszawa Factory Ursus Plac Czerwca 1976 r. 6, Warszawa

Venue Index Print space is finite, but the internet is a vast, vacuous void we’ve devoted our lives to filling. If the venue you’re looking for isn’t listed here, you’ll likely find it amongst the hundreds of places in Warsaw listed on our website: warsaw.inyourpocket.com 3/4 Koneser Bar

98 FACTORY Outlet Annopol

Nova Wola

82, 91 St. Anne's Church

Ogrody Ulricha Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery Old Orangery

95 St. Anne's Church & Tower

92 73 St. John the Baptist Cathedral 43 56 Strefa Restaurant & Bar 92

Old Town Defensive Ramparts 39 Syrena Irena 41 Teatro Cubano

108 Old Town Square 108 Palace of Culture & Science

STIXX Bar & Grill

89 101

Agnieszka Osiecka Monument 62 Food Hall Browary

25 Thai Thai 56 The Alchemist Grzybowska

Anielewicz Bunker

100 The Little Insurgent Monument 63 40

Adam Mickiewicz Monument 45 FACTORY Outlet Ursus

94 Palace on the Island Alembik 105 Fryderyk Chopin Museum 50, 70 Panattoni Café Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line Gnojna Góra 42 Pasaż Wiecha 105 Gościniec Polskie Pierogi 86 Pepper Events Archdiocese Museum Art Box Experience Asia & Pacific Museum AURA Bar Beef n’ Pepper Belvedere Palace

73 Gospoda pod Zygmuntem 86 PGE National Stadium 68 Hala Koszyki 17, 32, 95 PierOgarnia 77 Holy Cross Church 48 Pinball Station 68 Invisible Exhibition 98 Jan Kiliński Monument 84 Jewish Historical Institute 55 Katyń Museum

Bierhalle

84 Kufle i Kapsle Bliski Wschód Vege Street Food KUK Restaurant by Maciej & Cocktail Bar 88 Majewski Branicki & Szaniawski Palaces 38 Le Cabaret Jazz Bistro Bristol & Europejski Hotels 46 Lilou

100

Browar Warszawski

Browary Warszawskie

85 Loft 28 Lokal Vegan Bistro

Bułkę przez Bibułkę

83 L'Osteria Centrum Praskie Koneser 15, 61 Mandoria Theme Park Choose Your Adventure! Chopin Benches

48 Maria Skłodowska-Curie 47 Museum

Chopin Monument

55 Mariensztat

Ciao Napoli

85 MK Bowling Entertainment Center Clash Restaurant & Bar at NYX Hotel Warsaw

85 MOMU

97 83 The Alchemist Poznańska 89, 101 31 The Cool Cat 83

81 The Palm Tree

79 The Roof

102

70 Plac Europejski & Warsaw Spire 29 39 Plac Grzybowski 30 73 Plac Pięciu Rogów & ul. 69 Chmielna 31 99 Plac Piłsudskiego 28 90 105 88

110

The ROOTS Cocktail Bar & more 102 The University of Warsaw

Tokyo Sushi

To Lubię

Plac Zbawiciela

89 37 U Fukiera 93 32 Ujazdowski Castle Centre for

POLIN Museum

73 Contemporary Art

Polish History Museum

71 Ul. Kanonia

Polish Vodka Museum

61 ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46

Plac Zamkowy

U Barssa

Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec ul. Nowy Świat 49 & Studio Ceramiki 106 ul. Ząbkowska 61 77 Potocki Mausoleum 59 UPPER DECK Wine & Cocktail Bar 87

69 53

Powiśle Mermaid Statue

102

Praga Museum of Warsaw

61 Vistula River Boulevards

Presidential Palace

46 Vodka Museum

77 Prime Cut 87 PRIMITIVO Kuchnia i Wino

91 Wabu Sushi & Japanese Tapas 93 88 Warsaw Barbican

RISK made in warsaw 106 53 Museum of Dollhouses, Games 69 ROXX Warsaw Steaks and Croque Madame 82 & Toys Seafood 83, 91 Cuda na Kiju 99 Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship 57 Royal Castle 38 Czerwony Wieprz 86 Museum of Printing 63 SAM Powiśle 83 Designer Outlet Warszawa 108 Museum of Warsaw, Main Saska Kępa Beach 63 Dom Mody KLIF 108 Branch 41 Saska Kępa - Ul. Francuska 62 Elektrownia Powiśle 52, 108 Museum on the Vistula 53 Saxon Garden 28 Elektrownia Powiśle Food Hall 94 Myata Lounge 100 Setki Powodów 100 Elixir by Dom Wódki 90 Myślewicki Palace 56 Skaryszewski Park 63 El Koktel 99 Namaste India 88 Smart Kids Planet 76, 79 E-Manufaktura 106 National Ethnographic Museum Smart Kids Store 106 Enklawa Art & Music Club 97 70 Smolna 101 E. Wedel Chocolate Lounge Neon Museum 62 88 "Old-Fashioned Shop" 106 Nicolaus Copernicus Monument Specjały Regionalne 76 Fabryka Norblina 29 48 Stacja Grawitacja Copernicus Science Centre

Warsaw National Museum

Warsaw Photoplasticon

Warsaw Rising Museum

Warsaw University of Technology Warsaw Zoo

32 63, 79

Whiskey in the Jar

102

Wilanów Palace Museum

Wilanów Park & Gardens

World of Illusion

Zachęta National Gallery of Art 71 Zakłady Ceramiczne Bolesławiec 106 Złote Tarasy

THE OLDEST RESTAURANT IN WARSAW Traditional Polish Cuisine by Magda Gessler since 1990

Beautiful, charming, old-style restaurant, perfect for a memorable dinner. RESTAURANT

CATERING

EVENTS

OCCASIONAL PARTIES

Order from „U Fukiera”, wherever you are. Rynek Starego Miasta 27, 00-272 Warszawa Phone: +48 22 8311013 / +48 600999933 E-mail: fukier@ufukiera.pl www.ufukiera.pl