No. 136, October – November 2024
Featured this issue:
The Artists of Warsaw p.10
A brief history of some of the greats Elektrownia Powiśle p.16
Explore the flavors of Elektrownia RISK Made in Warsaw p.18 Elegance, meet Comfort
www.amberwarsaw.pl
www.warsawamber.pl
Jazdów
Lennona
Ujazdowski Castle (p.73) is a must-visit for its sheer beauty (and great photo ops). Photo: Filip Kwiatkowski
Located on the Vistula River at the very crossroads of Central Europe, Warsaw is the 8th most populous city in the European Union (1.8 million people) and a major cultural, political and economic hub.
The city has had a troubled history ever since King Sigismund III Vasa moved his royal court from Kraków, making Warsaw the new Polish capital in 1569. Pillaged by the Swedes in the 17th century, and occupied by Russia for most of the 19th century, Poland was off the map for 123 years before returning in the aftermath of WWI. The interwar period signalled a golden age for Warsaw, as the city developed on par with other great European capitals.
WWII brought new suffering, however. Occupied by Nazi Germany, Warsaw saw its cultural monuments defiled or stolen, and its Jewish population of 350,000 systematically exterminated. With liberation in sight, the Polish population rose up against their German occupiers in August 1944, only for Soviet forces to look on as the Nazis brutally crushed the Uprising and destroyed the city in reprisal. When the fires were extinguished, 150,000 more civilians were dead and German occupation had merely been traded for Soviet oppression, as Poland was pinned under Moscow’s influence for the next four decades, during which Warsaw was rebuilt in communist fashion, earning a reputation as a charmless city of concrete.
But that was then, this is now. A compelling blend of East and West, past and future, today’s Warsaw is a modern metropolis of complex character and rich rewards for those who get to know it. Gone are the gloomy images of yesteryear as the city restlessly evolves, buzzing with energy and optimism. Whether you’re here to explore trendsetting urban culture or UNESCO treasures, world-class dining or luxury boutiques, you’ll hardly be disappointed by all the modern capital has to offer. Enjoy Warsaw!
Warsaw In Your Pocket is designed to provide you with all of the ideas, tools and information you need to explore the city on your own, stay offline as much as possible, and really connect with the city you’re visiting.
Over here at IYP we still believe that the best way to understand the space you’re in is with a map, and the most immersive way to explore it is on foot. As such, our Sightseeing chapter is organised into geographic areas of interest with detailed district maps to help you navigate them. Selfguided district tours include descriptions of all the most important sites, plus local tips on where to eat and drink in each area. There are also intriguing ‘Crossroads’ moments that allow you to be lured towards alternative adventures, either on foot or via public transport.
Throughout the guide, page references are liberally used to lead you to related info on a topic elsewhere in the guide, while QR codes will take you to our website when we feel there’s more to know than can be expressed in print. Each venue listing includes a map coordinate (E-8, for example) that correlates to the city map on p.2-3. If there’s a specific venue you’re searching for, use the Venue Index in the back of the guide to quickly find it, or simply follow our informed suggestions.
The stunning Palace of Culture, flanked by bright fall foliage is one of the most beautiful sights this time of year. Photo by Filip Kwiatkowski.
IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com
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Of course, space in our print guide is a finite resource, but if you don’t find what you’re searching for here, we’re confident you’ll find it on our website. Visit warsaw.inyourpocket.com for more info about the capital, and poland.inyourpocket.com to see just how much of the country we cover.
Here is some extra content we wish we had room for in print this issue:
Read through our entire guide, done it all and still looking for more? Of course not, but the surrounding region still offers many sites worth exploring, from national parks to spa towns.
Warsaw is a fantastic place for biking, walking and just taking in the sunlight! And we have your go-to guide on the best spots to get out on two wheels!
The Coziest Warsaw Autumn
Autumn is one of the best times to come to Warsaw, from the great cafes to the mushrooms galore, to excellent fall foliage you can find in the parks. Here's a rundown of our favorite things to do this time of the year.
Editor: Anna Merriman
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Art is everywhere in this city - from large murals splayed across side street buildings, to massive classical structures that house modern creations and the classics. Art is in the tons of little shops around Warsaw that sell locally made paintings, and in the neon signs that adorn restaurants, bars, and even museums. But it’s especially entrenched in the city’s history.
Warsaw has long been home to scores of artists, thanks in large part to the Academy of Fine Arts, which has turned out hundreds of accomplished and prolific artists in its last 200 years of existence. Despite that, Warsaw isn’t generally sought out by art enthusiasts, many of whom first think Paris, London and New York when deciding where to go for their museum-ventures.
But that’s a mistake. The history of art in Warsaw is long and fascinating, as are its artists. And this season, as the weather gets chillier and the leaves start falling from the trees, is the perfect time to throw on a scarf, grab your sketchpad, and seek out Warszawian art.
Not only because of the weather (and how nice museums are when it’s a touch chilly outside) but
also because there are great things happening in the art world of Warsaw right now. First, the new main site of the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw is opening October 25 right smack-dab in the center of the city. The glistening white space (which you can read more about on p.72) will house tons of excellent, contemporary exhibits, featuring artists from Poland and the rest of the world. Second, is the Warsaw Art Fair, which is in its 21st year of featuring contemporary and older art from over 100 galleries.
So we’ve decided to feature some of our favorite artists from -- or with a deep connection to -Warsaw. Since there are literally hundreds to choose from, this is a small sampling and generally a starting point to explore further. Go forth and immerse yourself in art!
Let’s start with one of Poland’s most beloved artists, Magdalena Abakanowicz, who is known for her sculpture and textile art in the mid to late 20th century. Born in 1930 in Falenty (just south of Warsaw), Abakanowicz’s family was actually descended from Polish royalty. Her life changed when she was just 9 years old and Nazis invaded Poland and her family became part of the heroic Polish Resistence. Abakanowicz (at the tender age of 14) became a nurse’s aid in a hospital in Warsaw, seeing firsthand the horrors of war. Unsurprisingly, this had a huge impact on the teenager and heavily influenced her art.
Years later, Abakanowicz enrolled in the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw and, like many other artists at the time, ran up against resistence and constraints by the government. At that point (the ‘50s) Poland was under Soviet rule and leaders banned all art that wasn’t socialist realism (essentially very dark, very realistic paintings of leaders in power). This put enormous constraints on a young Abakanowicz who turned from painting to, more frequently, textiles for artistic expression. She continued to paint but over the years also took up weaving as an art form and later, in the 1960s, produced her famous Abkans. The 3D fiber works hang up to 13 feet from the ceiling and are made of a weaving technique Abakanowicz herself created (See one for yourself at the opening of the new Modern Art Museum of Warsaw in late October p. 72 ). Fun fact: they also inspired a 2023 fashion line by Alexander McQueen.
Later, in the 60s and 70s, she moved on to sculpture art, creating figures out of synthetic resin. She played a lot with the human form, creating series of sculptures depicting headless bodies, others depicting only heads, and still more of human backs. As the decades wore on and her international renown grew, Abakanowicz created other sculptures out of bronze, wood, stone and clay. Her works can be found all over the world, at places like the Tate Modern and Moma, and one piece was even in Robin William’s private collection. Abakanowicz died in 2017 in Warsaw but her works live on as a respresentation of the extreme oppression she and other Poles faced in the 20th century, and the weight of human suffering.
One of Poland’s most famed artists, Zdzisław Beksiński was not actually born in Warsaw – he was born in southern Poland – but he has a strong, and dark, tie to the capital city. Born in 1929, Beksiński studied architecture in Kraków and went on to work in construction but left it for his real love: art. Specifically, photography, painting and sculpting, the latter of which he created (at first) out of materials from his construction sites.
Beksiński quickly fell in love with surrealism and, without any formal training as an artist, he went on to make some of the most beautiful and dark surrealist paintings, often depicting things like people with bandages over their faces and other images of torn or damaged faces. The first exhibition of his work was held in 1964 in Warsaw and launched him into further success as he entered what he referred to as his “fantastic period”. The period produced an enormous amount of dark, surrealist paintings, depicting death, deserts and overall, gloom, which he created in his studio as he listened to classical music. He moved to Warsaw in 1977, destroying a group of his works in the process and leaving no documentation.
In Warsaw, he continued to work on his art, with digital photography and photo manipulation becoming a passion of his during the 1990s. He was known – despite the darkness of his works – to be a generally happy person and a modest one at that, often deciding not to attend his own exhibitions. He was found murdered in his Warsaw apartment in 2005 with 17 stab wounds by a man who was upset that Beksiński hadn’t loaned him $100.
Wojciech Fangor has been heralded as one of the most distinctive painters to emerge from post-war Poland, and it’s easy to see why. Born in 1922 in Warsaw to a wealthy family, Fangor started early as a creative, encouraged by his mother, a trained pianist. In 1936 he studied under a painter in Poland and traveled around Italy and Paris, pursuing his art. During Nazi occupation, he trained under another renowned Polish artist, Felicjan Kowarski, at his own family’s estate before going on to get his degree from the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw in 1946.
During Soviet rule, Fangor worked on government projects to support himself and, following the doctrine that mandated all art be Socialist Realism (see above) Fangor worked on Socialist Realist
pieces including one (Figures) that’s one of his most famous works. However, his period of Socialist Realism didn’t last long; by 1952 he had become dissillusioned with the style and turned instead to graphic design, eventually co-founding the Polish School of Posters. In the 60s he transitioned to more abstract art forms, using blurred, geometric images to produce artistic experiments that played with color, light and space. These works began to garner international acclaim largely for their optical effects and hyper contemporary nature. He was commissed to create art for the train platforms at the Warszawa Srodmiescie station (you can see them today –abstract blots of color lining the inside of the train platform walls). He eventually moved to Vienna and Paris and was highly influenced by contemporary Mark Rothko as he went on to continue creating abstract works that involves large swaths of color and optical illusions.
He settled in the US (and had an individual exhibition at the Guggenheim) for 30 years before returning to Poland in 1999, something that art critics said diminished his worldwide renown. But he continued to exhibit art in his home country and design works for Warsaw’s new metro system. He died in 2015 after living the remaining years of his life in a town just outside Warsaw.
Another fascinating – and unique for this list, still living – figure is Krzysztof Wodiczko, a Polish artist known for his slide and video projections which he projects onto architectural facades and monuments. Born in 1943 in Warsaw during the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising, Wodiczko studied (unsurprisingly, given all the names and their alma maters on this list) at the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw and began collaborating on studio and sound performances. Over the ensuing years, he developed a style that combined technology in a practice he calls Interrogative Design, with projects like Vehicle, which is a machine that moves in one direction based on how the user walks on it. He tested out several of these projects (most notably, Vehicle) on the streets of Warsaw in the 1970s and continued to spend his time collaborating with other artists on sound and music performances.
He eventually emigrated from Poland in 1977, first landing in Canada to teach at an arts college there, before moving to New York City and taking up a teaching residence at MIT.
His most notable works – his projections – came to life in 1980. In one piece, he projected the head of Ronald Reagan doing the pledge of allegiance onto the AT&T Long Lines building in New York City for several days leading up to the 1984 presidential election. He has other artistic projections in cities around the world, including those in Germany, Ireland, Israel, Japan and many others. He has won numerous awards for his art and he’s well worth looking into, as the meaning, significance, and breadth of his work cannot be fully conveyed over text.
A prolific artist, and one of the top sculpture artists of Warsaw, Xawery Dunikowski was a fascinating figure, artist, and Holocaust survivor.
Born in 1875 in Kraków, Dunikowski’s family moved to Warsaw when he was 12 years old. He studied at the School of Fine Arts in Kraków before returning to Warsaw to teach sculpture at the Academy of Fine Arts there in 1902. Three years later, during a fight at a restuaurant in Warsaw, he is said to have shot
and killed a fellow artist, however he was never tried because of an ongoing major conflict – the First Russian Revolution in 1905.
He continued to teach in Paris and then in Kraków until 1940 when he was arrested by the Nazis and taken to Auschwitz. He narrowly escaped death by the gas chambers when a fellow Pole crossed his name off the list of people to be killed, and again escaped when he was scheduled to be shot over accusations he was part of a resistence movement. Due to an illness he had at the time, he was sent back to an infirmary.
Amid the horrors of the camp, Dunikowski turned to art. In 1944 while in the hospital, he started drawing images of his fellow prisoners, which were smuggled out and sent back to Kraków. He was alive, though sick, when the camp was liberated in 1945 and he returned to his art – specifically, a set of sculptures he had started before he was sent to Auschwitz. His art in the following years was largely inspired by the works he had created while he was captured and mostly involved architectural, large-scale pieces like the Monument of the
Liberation of the Region of Warmia and Mazury and the Revolutionary Effort. He eventually returned to Warsaw to teach at the art school and died in 1964. Some of his works are on display at Królikarnia, a former palace in the Mokotów neighborhood of Warsaw.
Armed with that knowledge, you now have a great understanding of some of the, well, greats! But there’s much more to see, so here's a rundown of some of our favorite art spaces in the city.
For contemporary art, head to Zachęta National Gallery of Art, which has tons in the way of abstract paintings, sculpture arms coming out of walls, melted crayons, all those pieces that make you think (and some that make you really think). Established in 1860, the art museum regularly hosts temporary exhibits, meaning that every time you enter, you're likely to be met with new art. Though there is also a permanent collection that houses 3600 objects including paintings, videos and sculptures. Read more on p.73.
Also for contemporary art, another is Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art, one of the top art spaces in the city. It regularly hosts exhibitions, concerts and more, all showcasing contemporary art in a gorgeous space. It's worth reading more about this before you go, as this site became a point of contention in the last few years after a member of Poland's then-ruling conservative party was picked to be director. See more on p.73.
We're all in for a treat with the newly reopening Modern Art Museum on Marszałkowska! Opening Oct. 25, the initial exhibition will be on feminist art from modern artists around the world (and several from Poland!). That will be followed by regularly changing temporary exhibits, all in a gorgeous, unmissable space. Read more on p.72.
If you’re into the classics, the National Museum is a must. The first floor is home to an excellent archaeology section with artefacts from ancient Greece, Rome and Egypt. But the next several floors are where you'll really sink your teeth into some old art. Find plenty of medieval art, the old masters and more, all the way through the 20th Century, plus lots of Polish art. More on p.73
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It’s hard to miss Elektrownia Powiśle – the towering complex of sleek, revitalized early 20th century power plant buildings is now a bustling hub of cultural events, rolling green spaces, shopping, beauty bars and more. In fact, it’s been called one of the best urban revitalization projects in all of Poland.
But you might know it by another commonly used moniker: The Culinary Capital of Warsaw. And for good reason. Between the Food Hall and the rest of the space, there are 41 restaurants and bars offering everything from breakfast to lunch, dinner and drinks. You could spend a whole day dining here, and the diversity of flavors will leave you stunned!
When you’re eager to try some expertly cooked meat, head over to Dym Restaurant, which is called a “mecca” for barbecue lovers and offers juicy meat, and sophisticated flavors! Prime Cut takes a more New York steakhouse approach with elements of European cuisine. Ivy Lounge & Shisha Bar can’t be missed if you’re looking for well-spiced Turkish beef.
Meanwhile, for European food, Dock19 by Mateusz Gessler, offers culinary flavors of Europe and Asia
in a gorgeous industrial-style space. At Madre, grab some incredible pizza prepared with 18-yearold sourdough. And then there’s the beloved Tres Toros, which is often referred to as “little Spain” for its robust offering of tapas and la plancha dishes. At Etiuda in the Barceló Hotel, find a delicious offering of Polish food and pasta. When it comes to traveling east, once again, Elektrownia is well-prepared. Pełną Parą offers excellent, brightly colored dumplings bursting with flavor. Meanwhile, PaTaThai has the highest-quality Thai food with super authentic flavors.
Another favorite of ours is Blue Cactus Cocktails & Tapas, which has a 20-year history in the city thanks to its iconic Mexican dishes like colorful tacos, nutritious burritos and more. In the fall, get excited about some excellent seasonal menus. Plus, enjoy the fact that many of the restaurants are open late!
Inside the Food Hall, you will be hit with a cornucopia of delicious smells from the 17 food kiosks and 3 bars. If it’s American food you’re after, sidle up to The Fry, Smashny Burger or Hotdogarnia for the classics done with incredible toppings. Philly’s Finest gives you that great, juicy cheeseteak bite and Owca offers incredible street food like juicy pulled pork burgers. Travel to the south for some excellent Tex-Mex at MariCruz
Or, head to Quattro Canti for neapolitan pizzas done very well and Pita Bros for fluffy pitas stuffed with perfectly spiced, juicy meat. We love Chmeli Suneli, which serves up mouthwatering Georgian food, and Le Bab which brings you delectable kebabs. Plus, Goffry offers some of the fluffiest waffles around.
When it comes to Asian cuisine, the Food Hall at Elektrownia is on top of it! Juicy dumplings at Dim Sum Para Para and delectable sushi at Kimi Sushi will leave you perfectly sated, while a bowl of flavorful ramen at Ramen Kikuya by Uki Uki is perfect for warm months. The southeast Asian flavors at Vietlabb (incredible pho!) and Curry Leaves (don’t miss their palak paneer!) are perfect for lunch or a veggie-forward dinner.
When it comes to drinks, of course, the Food Hall is also on top of that! For non-alcoholic, head over to Crazy Bubble and try some top-notch bubble tea. For those who want to sip on a glass of wine or a tasty cocktail, Kandela Bar and Centralna Bar are the spots to be. And for the craft beer lovers out there, Elektryk, with its funky neon signs and excellent selection, is the spot.
Outside of the Food Hall, you’ll find everything from breakfast to late-night bites. Miro Café has expertly brewed coffee and modern, beautiful confectionaries. Another must-try is Vita Café, which offers the highest quality breakfast options, made from scratch without preservatives. BAKERY Elektrownia Powiśle should be high on your list. A craft bakery that specializes in Italian offerings and all-day breakfast! A new, exciting spot is the American-style restaurant, Milk Bar, which actually comes out of Kiev and offers dishes like tres leches, cakes, waffles, pancakes and more. If you’re really feeling a sweet treat (it can count for breakfast!) Na Końcu Tęczy offers delicious ice cream from natural ingredients while Cheese DŽIUGAS® House offers delicious ice cream (as well as, of course, a huge variety of cheese) For a unique concept, head to Lifestyle Designers Point&Café, where you can enjoy delicious coffee while also learning about and shopping for global brands with help from employees. And of course, what would a space like Elektrownia Powiśle be without an old standby: Starbucks!
Make sure not to skip out on what it has to offer at night! First, keep Gatsby Warsaw in mind for their gorgeous, elegant interior that can be rented for private events like parties! Meanwhile, at Hotel Barceló find the B-Heaven Bar with elegant, delicate cocktails and a terrace that’s open to everyone with city views! Inside, you’ll find Champs Sports Bar, which is really the ultimate sports bar, with tons of great Tex-mex bites, lots of TVs and an excellent drink selection.
Along with the variety of dining options, you’ll be able to find a lot of other attractions here. When it comes to shopping, choose from over 90 Polish and foreign brands along with the first ever beauty zone in Poland, called Beauty Hall (p.80). You’ll also find apartments for rent, office buildings, and the boutique hotel Barceló. Elektrownia Powiśle, the “Culinary Capital of Warsaw” really has something for everyone.
QH‑6, ul. Zajęcza 2B, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com Open 12:00 23:00; Fri 12:00 24:00; Sat 11:00 24:00; Sun 11:00 23:00. U6
Risks's Bikinary collection recalls the subversive fashion of the bikiniarze subculture from the '50s.
As you shop in Warsaw – or any major city, really – you’re likely to encounter a lot of the same type of clothing: so-called “fast fashion.” We all know the type: clothing that hangs at odd angles, that rips easily, that often looks the same, that’s mass-produced in unethical ways. We’ve gotten used to it, even.
But that’s why two friends, Antonina and Klara, with an eye for design and a desire for better clothing, stepped in and created RISK Made in Warsaw.
Walk past their boutique on ul. Szpitalnia 6a and it’s easy to see how RISK is different.
Inside their shop, located just off a popular plaza and a short walk from one of the most popular streets in town (Nowy Świat), you’ll find dresses bursting with colorful, unique patterns. You’ll try on jackets and skirts that cut in at flattering angles and give you timeless silhouettes. You’ll feel fabric that’s so comfortable, it puts the polyester clothing you find at many shops to shame. If you go in autumn, you’ll find an exciting new collection that hearkens back to the 1950s (more on that below).
But for many visitors to RISK, it’s the backstory and the concept – along with the clothing – that really cements this store as one of the best clothing shops in Warsaw… and the world.
RISK started 13 years ago with a white t-shirt. Well, really it was a white t-shirt that Klara had emblazoned with a red sewn heart and gifted to Antonina for her birthday, complete with an embroidered label. That shirt and what it represented – something handmade and made well – gave birth to a new concept for the friends who started considering the idea of clothing that thinks outside the box.
The next breakthrough came in the form of a grey hooded sweatshirt. So many other clothing staples had found their place in modern fashion and had been repurposed and re-developed numerous times over. But who has ever tried to repurpose the grey sweatshirt?
So, armed with an idea, the friends created the RISK brand and its first collection: women’s jackets, dresses and more, all sewn from that comfy grey sweatshirt fabric. Over the course of 10 weeks, the women
devoted all their time and energy to the idea. They didn’t have much in the way of funding, but they had a lot in the way of enthusiasm. At the core of their concept was a simple question: why sacrifice comfort for beauty? Why not have both?
As the brand grew, they started collaborating with clothing manufacturers from Łódź to produce sweatshirts and fabrics especially for their needs: tracksuit-like wool, tracksuit-like silk and velvet and more. They showed tracksuit wedding dresses at the National Stadium in Warsaw and their brand began to take off, bringing elegance and comfort to a much larger stage
“We still love making things in which people not only look gorgeous, but above all, they feel divine,” the friends said about their brand.
After a more than a decade, the friends are professionals at making clothes that smack of elegance and timelessness but feel comfy enough to wear to bed. And nothing is a better indication of that than their newest collection, Bikinary, which reaches back to 1950s and takes inspiration from the style of Polish novelist, Leopold Tyrmand and the subculture “bikiniarze.” The term described men and women who did not conform to cultural norms and reflected that in their clothing, with items like wide-shouldered jackets, narrow trousers, and more.
“We take on their anti-system suits,” said the friends, adding that their modern take on the bikiniarze culture and fashion is about “outsmarting the system with a bit of elegant extravagance.”
Suits for this collection are made from soft, knitted fabrics; their pants are flexible, airy and figure-slimming with chic prints; work outfits look professional but feel like tracksuit fabric.
A favorite of the new collection is “an ethereal and minimalist, slightly oversized shirt made of premium vegan knitwear in a pearl shade of white” along with smart, brightly patterned shirts for women that reflect palm trees, tropical islands and more.
It’s not just the bikiniarze line that draws a lot of eyes to RISK. In fact, many of their clothes are designed with pattern and feel in mind. The fabrics that RISK chooses are well thought out for a number of reasons.
The first is the feel. As the friends say, they like “contradictions” – meaning ultra-elegant cuts made of soft knit fabric. The ultimate test, according to Klara and Antonina, is that the wearer should feel so comfortable, they’re able to sleep in the clothes.
That doesn’t just come from the soft fabrics, but from the tailoring too. Each item feels tailored specifically to its wearer and their needs. Their skirts have super elastic rubber to prevent cutting into your sides; the hems use traditional tailoring that hasn’t been rushed like the ones often sold in fast-fashion stores.
But putting aside the feel of the fabric and the outfits, it’s the patterns that really pack a punch. RISK is very thoughtful about what patterns they use, with some reflecting pieces of Polish history, others referencing important artists, and still more that speak to our collective feelings of nostalgia and whimsy.
One 2017 collection used flower prints based on watercolors painted for RISK by a Polish artist from Silesia. Another collection in 2019 used prints designed by Polish designer Paweł Palikot and based on the colors of traditional Łowicz folk costumes.Another collection in 2020 used the inkblots and the Rorschach test as inspiration for patterns of abstract, colorful stains.
Still other collections have referenced Polish folk art, Polish countryside scenes, and even one collection in 2022 that was based off tattoos seen on residents around Warsaw.
QG‑7, Ul. Szpitalna 6A MCentrum, tel. (+48) 882 12 14 44, www.riskmadeinwarsaw.com. Open 11:00 19:00 U
Polish food is famous for being simple, rich and very filling. Below we list the most well-known dishes you simply must try while in town, all of which you should be able to order from any Polish restaurant worth its salt. Smacznego!
Barszcz
A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with a croquette (‘barszcz z krokietem’), with miniature pierogi floating in it (‘barszcz z uszkami’), or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. A recommended alternative to other beverages, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Poland, so make sure you return home with barzszcz stains on at least one of your shirts.
Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’ ‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.
Golonka
Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish is like a ‘cabbage enchilada'. Consisting of boiled cabbage leaves filled with rice, onion and typically beef, gołąbki are rolled up and baked or steamed, then served with tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims that King Kazimierz IV fed his army gołąbki before the Battle of Grunwald, and their unlikely victory attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.
This is ‘pork knuckle’ or ‘ham hock,’ as in the part of a pig’s leg between the knee and ankle. Boiled, braised or roasted, this is the closest the Poles come to barbecue, and is a delicacy. The meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Generally sold by weight, you might end up with more than you bargained for, but it’s certainly an Instagram opportunity. Go caveman.
Typically served with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, this is probably the most popular meal in Poland. Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a weekend by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the sound of the meat being tenderised with a spiky mallet, so best mind your manners.
Poland’s most famous food, you can't leave PL until you’ve had them. These doughy, stuffed dumplings are typically steamed or pan-fried. Traditional fillings include potato, sweet cheese, minced meat, mushrooms and cabbage or seasonal fruits. If you nose around, you’ll find plenty of maverick fillings like chocolate, lentils or even chicken livers; the possibilities are limitless and served literally everywhere.
These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to hashbrowns or Jewish latkes (if that means anything to you), and may be served in a variety of ways. Keep it simple with just sour cream (‘placki solo’), or turn it into a hefty meal by ordering them smothered in mushroom sauce or - our favourite - goulash (‘placki po węgiersku’). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.
It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a sour soup made from a thick stock of fermented rye flour. Typically chock full of potatoes, sausage and hard-boiled eggs, żurek is most often thickened with cream, and seasoned with marjoram, garlic, salt and pepper. The result is a tasty grayish gruel that any Polish peasant would be proud to polish off. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get it served in a bread bowl.
The Italians have wine, the Spaniards have wine. The French…. also wine. But what does Poland do best when it comes to alcohol? Vodka and beer.
These are the two most popular alcoholic beverages in Poland, and that means that brewers and distillers alike have spent a lot of time honing their crafts. Here’s a rundown of the history of these two popular drinks:
The name “vodka” (an anglicised version of the Polish “wódka” pronounced “v-ood-kah”) means quite literally “little water.” The origins of the drink date back to the 8th century, when distillation was discovered and the practice began to sweep across Europe. When it comes to vodka itself, the first written record of the drink came out in 1405 in Poland.
Originally, it was used as medicine: it helped treat wounds, numb pain, make perfume. But the consumption of vodka became more popular in the 15th and 16th centuries as it became industrialized across the country, with distilleries opening in Kraków, Gdańsk and Poznań (in fact, the popular Żubrówka vodka dates back to this century).
The popularization of vodka continued at a quick clip in Poland, hitting some bumps along the way
(production slowed during the wars at the beginning of the 20th century). Now, Poland is one of the top three producers of vodka in the world, and produced nearly 100 million liters in 2016 alone.
Poles are proud of their vodka and as a result, there are many traditions surrounding the drink. You may not run into all of them when you visit, but here’s a run-down just in case:
Na zdrowie – say this as you clink glasses and make sure to look your drinking partner in the eye or you’ll have years (some say 7, some say 5) of bad luck.
Christmas vodka – drinking a shot of vodka (sipping, not tossing it back) with some good pickled fish (Śledź) is a classic Christmas tradition. In fact, pickled fish and vodka commonly go together at any time of year.
Wedding shots – After the ceremony, the bride and groom will each get a shot of vodka and they’re supposed to down the shot, toss the glasses behind their backs, and break them. The broken glasses signify good luck in the marriage.
There are many good Polish vodkas but also some classics:
Żubrówka – this is a Polish vodka from the 16th century that is just a classic staple. One popular kind has a sprig of bison grass inside, which makes the drink a little bright and earthy.
Goldwasser – bet you didn’t know this was Polish! This is a classic from the Gdańsk area, and you’ll know it because it has gold flakes floating inside and a slightly cinnamon-y taste.
Chopin – This is just a good vodka. It’s not too sharp, well balanced and it goes great with everything.
Luksusowa – Finally, the people’s vodka. This is good and affordable. This is what people buy to drink with friends on an unassuming Friday night.
Where to get it:
The better question is where not to get vodka in Warsaw? The Polish Vodka Museum (p.63) and the Vodka Museum (p.73) will each take you on a tour through the history of vodka and give you a chance to try some! Klar (G-5) is known for their unique vodka flavors, which are constantly changing as they find new ways to infuse vodka with berries, herbs and spices! Pijalnia wodki i piwa is a chain with plenty of vodka types to sample and enjoy.
Poland also has a long history with beer that dates back to the middle ages. But it wasn’t until the 18th and 19th centuries that beer became mass produced on an industrial scale. The Tychy Brewery, which produces the extremely popular beer Tyskie, has been around since the 17th century.
The initial styles beloved by Poles were porters (dark beers) and then pale ales (much lighter beers) swiftly began to take over. Like vodka, beer production hit some bumps in the early 20th century but picked up again in the late century.
And that brings us to today – almost. While many of those lager-style beers have reigned in popularity for decades, the past 10 years have seen smaller breweries start getting in on the beer game. Many home brewing operations started making craft beer, and by making smaller batches than
industrial brewers, they were able to focus more on experimenting with non-traditional ingredients and techniques, leading to more interesting flavors.
Pinta – around since 2010, this brewery is one of the most popular craft breweries in all of Poland, and regularly makes hazy IPAs, sour beers, pale ales, pilsners – the works!
Funky Fluid – a Warsaw-based brewery, this is another type of craft beer that’s been gaining more and more popularity over the years for its bold flavors of hoppy, wild and sour beers (and more!)
Trzech Kumpli – brewing since the start of the craft beer craze in about 2014, this brewery makes a lot of dark beers (smoked porters, Irish stouts) as well as light lagers and pilsners.
Piwne Podziemie – one of the smaller craft breweries, but that means they can really focus on their flavorand they deliver! For the beer snobs who have tried every type, this is the beer to grab.
Well of course you can buy the large-scale, industrial beers (Tyskie, Lech, Żywiec) pretty much anywhere. But for craft beers, you have to know where to go. Pinta has a bar specializing in their beers on Chimelnia Street. Other bars like Jabeerwocky (G-8), Kufle i Kapsle (p. 104), will also offer great craft beers, Bierhalle (p.89), and Browary Warszawskie (p.30) are very popular, too. Plus, don’t miss the beer festivals held in the spring and fall in Warsaw!
Travelling around Warsaw by bus, metro and tram is fast, efficient and affordable; driving a car through the centre, on the other hand, can be confusing and frustrating. As such, for visitors the city centre is best navigated by bike, scooter, public transport or taxi/ride share - all of which are explained here. For detailed info about Warsaw’s airports and train stations, visit our website.
Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system, as well as a good metro system with the M1 line running north-south and M2 running east-west. Over 1,900 buses operate in and around the city, and run 05:00-23:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops.
Standardised tickets are valid for use on the metro, buses and trams, and can be bought from machines with instructions in English at all metro stations, and some bus and tram stops. Tickets can also be purchased from machines on the actual buses and trams, where you can pay by card, or using exact change only.
A standard single fare costs 4.40zł for 75min, or 3.40zł for a 20min ticket. If you’re travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll need a 7zł ticket
that covers both zones 1 and 2 (note that the airport is still in Zone 1). Tickets valid for 24 hours, 3 days and a special ‘weekend’ ticket might also be worth considering. Those over 70 ride for free, as do children up until the end of September of the year they turn 7, but you must have photo ID (those who ride free still need a ticket/’wejściówka’ to get through the gates of the metro - find wall dispensers next to the gates and hang on to the ticket for multiple rides). Everyone else pays full fare, unless you have an ISIC card which entitles you to a reduced fare (‘ulgowy’ ticket).
Once you’re through the electronic gates of the metro, you’re ready to ride. For buses and trams, however, there’s one extra step - validating your ticket immediately once you’re on board in the small ‘kasownik’ boxes on trams and buses. Plain clothes ticket inspectors stalk the lines, dishing out hefty fines for those without valid tickets. They often don’t look very official and you are within your rights to request identification.Qwww.ztm.waw.pl
Renting a scooter (the motorbike kind, think Vespa) is certainly a more fun, stylish and convenient option than the bus, tram or searching for car parking. Skutery Centrum is located just minutes from the train station and offers a large selection of sporty and stylish rides. QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 32/34, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 99 77 60, www.skutery centrum.pl. Open 07:30 19:30.
WawaBus offers a private transportation service to bring you to and from the airport, your hotel, your dinner reservation an! Not only that, but the sleek, modern cars and well-experienced drivers ensure that your trips will be as hassle-free, comfortable and enjoyable as possible! In addition to being prompt and experienced, the drivers each know at least one foreign language. Plus, the service is offered 24/7 so you can relax when it comes to getting to that 6 a.m. flight.QG‑8, ul. Dziatwy 14C/12, tel. (+48) 515 00 10 01, wawabus.pl/en. Open 24/7.
Want your own car, but just for a short while? Download the Traficar app, find an empty vehicle, scan the QR code, and you’re in. You can leave the car in any legal parking space within their service zone, and you don’t have to pay for gas! In terms of cost versus a taxi, it comes out about the same, but as an alternative to car rental, Traficar is a wonder. You can rent a vehicle for as long as you want at only 4.99zł to start and then 2.09 zł per kilometer, or for 24 hours for only 69zł a day and then 1.19zł per kilometer. Note that you need to have a valid driver’s license that is recognised in PL.Qwww.traficar.pl. Prices are calculated as 4.99zł to start a journey, plus 2.09zł/km.
When it comes to Sightseeing, visitors should be sure to experience the dynamic synergy of Warsaw as a modern metropolis that still nurtures its cultural spirit and traditions. To this end, our guide details the capital’s most important districts, walking you through not only the antiquated Old Town (p.38), regal Royal Route (p.46) and the imperial beauty of Łazienki (p.56) and Wilanów (p.60), but also around the soaring, frenetic City Centre (p.28), happening Powiśle (p.52) and scruffy Praga (p.62). If your time is limited, however, here’s a cheat sheet of the city’s most unmissable sights.
More of a triangle than a square, and home to the Royal Castle, this popular plac is where modern Warsaw meets the Old Town.QSee p.39
A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ of Warsaw’s golden days, the Old Town is also symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the ruins of WWII.QSee p.43.
Warsaw’s left-bank boulevards are a favourite haunt of the locals - go and see why - walk, ride, or just chill on the riverside steps. Wow.QSee p.53.
Full of incredible art and architecture this massive park and palace complex offers spectacular opportunities for sightseeing or simply relaxing.QSee p.56
Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’, this 237-metre-high structure was Warsaw’s tallest building until 2021, and takes its inspiration from the capitalist worldnamely the Empire State Building. Working around the clock, it took over 5,000 workers - ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a purpose-built village - just three years to finish the Palace in 1955 With 3,288 rooms inside, the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just Communist Party headquarters but also as ‘The People’s Castle.’ Now an iconic part of Warsaw’s landscape, the Palace is celebrated by some, while for others it merely represents Russian hegemony.
At present the building hosts several theatres, a cinema, numerous bars, restaurants and cafes, and a tourist info office, as well as the National Museum of Technology and the Museum of Evolution Tours of the interiors are offered hourly in Polish between 10:00 and 15:00, and in English at 16:00. Book tickets online in advance, or skip the tour and head straight to the outdoor viewing terrace on the 30th floor (via elevator) for thrilling panoramic views; tickets available online.
QE‑8, Pl. Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Open 09:00 18:00. Viewing terrace open 10:00 20:00; terrace admission 25/20zł. U
The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17thcentury royal palace 10km to the south.QSee p.60
1000 years of Jewish history in Poland is chronicled in this excellent museum where the Jewish Ghetto stood during WWII.QSee p.75.
With tons of art from the 20th century and beyond, plus great exhibits on ancient Greece and rome, this is a must!QSee p. 73.
Chronicling the heroism and tragedy of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, this modern museum packed with multimedia displays is one of PL’s best.QSee p.77
Known locally as ‘Śródmieście,’ Warsaw’s City Centre isn’t exactly a district (it comprises several, actually), but more of a catch-all term for the downtown area. Definitions vary, but generally, you know it when you’re in it - wide streets, monumental buildings, billboards, busy crosswalks and little to stand in the way of progress. It’s the modern, fast-paced, forwardlooking part of the city radiating out from the Palace of Culture & Science, and it’s here that you’ll find the majority of the city’s hotels, restaurants and bars, but also government buildings, skyscrapers and places of commerce - the dynamic heart of the contemporary capital.
In terms of tourism, it’s not exactly inviting, so why start here? Well, chances are you’re staying in the City Centre and probably there right now, so let’s get familiar with what’s around before running off to the Old Town (p.38). Despite not being particularly cosy or nostalgic, there are still many points of interest downtown, and nowhere more conveys the modern character of the Polish capital.
Gliniana
Pawia
Pawia
Dzielna
Smocza
Nowolipki
Nowolipie
Ogrodowa
Anielewicza
Pawia
Srebrna Dzielna
Grzybowska Spi
Platynowa
Nowolipki
TarczyńskaDaleka
Dantyszka Złota
Reja
1 Plac Piłsudskiego
Used over the centuries for military parades and national celebrations, this is Warsaw’s largest square Named after legendary inter-war Polish leader, Józef Piłsudski; you’ll find a statue of the Marshal guarding his naming rights with a stern gaze nearby. The space has undergone quite a few rebrandings thanks to the changing political landscape, including a stint as ‘Adolf Hitler Platz’ under Nazi occupation. During the era of Partitions, the huge orthodox St. Nevsky Cathedral was built here. Considered a symbol of Russian oppression, it was razed after Poland regained its independence. It was here that in 1979, Polish Pope John Paul II gave an open-air holy mass to 500,000 people, instilling hope in the struggle against the repressive communist system. In 2018, two new monuments were added - both relating to the tragic and highly politicised Smoleńsk Air Disaster in which a plane carrying 96 members of a Polish government delegation crashed in the Russian forest in 2010; everyone on board perished, including President Lech Kaczyński, whose monument here gazes upon that of the other victims.
At the western end of the square you’ll find the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the broken colonnades of Saxon Palace - the grand structure this square stood in front of until its destruction during WWII. Here, the ashes of unidentified soldiers who died for the Polish cause are interred and an eternal flame is guarded by stone-faced soldiers. If you enjoy a bit of military theatre, you can watch the official changing of the guard every hour, on the hour, 365 days a year.QF‑6, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.
Plac Piłsudskiego’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier almost serves as an entrance gate into Saski Park, aka Saxon Garden. This historic 15.5ha park is the oldest in the city, and became one of the first public parks in the world when it opened to all in 1727. At that time it was a Baroque garden with the grandiose Saxon Palace playing a role very similar to the Palace of Versailles in Paris’ famous park. Despite its demise during WWI, Saxon Garden still offers several historical points of interest, in addition to lots of benches, plenty of shade and a much-needed escape from the urban din of the capital. The centrepiece of the gardens is a large fountain created in 1855 by renowned Warsaw architect Henryk Marconi. The alleyways running out from it are lined with blooming flowers, ancient trees and neoclassical sculptures. In the northwestern part of the park, you’ll find the Romanesque Water Tower from 1825 - also designed by Marconi, and modelled on the famous Temple of Vesta in Tivoli. Other curiosities include a sundial from 1863, a memorial honouring Varsovians killed during WWII, and a statue of Stefan Starzyński - the city’s mayor at the outbreak of WWII, who later to became a victim of Dachau concentration camp. It’s also worth noting the beautiful Renaissance palace on the southern side of the park, which holds ZachętaWarsaw’s premier space for contemporary art.QF‑6, Between ul. Marszałkowska and Plac Piłsudskiego, MŚwiętokrzyska.
Once one of Central Europe’s most famous brewing complexes, this 4.5ha area has been revitalised into a trendy urban culture and gastronomy district, densely packed with dozens of restaurants, cafes, bars, bakeries and shops. Mixing bold new architecture with restored historical buildings, post-industrial design with public green spaces, the heart of this ‘city within the city’ is Food Hall Browary - 13 world cuisines at restaurant stalls in the former cellars. The historic Browar Warszawski (Warsaw Brewery) itself has also been revived and is once again producing craft beers (19 different types!) for local hopheads, while other highlights include a sports bar part-owned by Robert Lewandowski (Nine’s). The food is delicious and so is the atmosphere -- it's worth coming here for a date night, or a friend gathering or even just a simple pint after work. There's always something brewing at Browary, so check online for events.QC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 60, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.browarywarszawskie.com.pl
One of Warsaw’s newest public spaces, European Square was created by Wirtz International Landscape Architecture as part of the impressive Warsaw Spire - Poland’s 3rd-tallest skyscraper at 220m. Both the square and the office building have won awards for their design. This small square has a lot of features: trees, benches, fountains, reflecting pools, two large murals, an amphitheatre, a unique Art Walk gallery where changing exhibits are displayed, and an iconic 3D Instagram-baiting installation that says ‘Kocham Warszawę’ (I Love Warsaw). Of course there are cafes, bars and food options as well, making this a very unique and worthwhile place to hang out in Warsaw’s business district.QC‑7, Daszyńskiego.
This former industrial site covering an area of near Rondo Daszyńskiego was once one of the largest enterprises in the Kingdom of Poland, with a long, complex history that dates back to the 1840s. The Norblin, Buch Brothers and T. Werner Factory (to give its full name) produced a wide range of metal, tin and silver-plated goods - sugar bowls, teapots, cutlery, vases, dishes and more - ranging from the utilitarian to true works of art. Until recently a neglected pearl of post-industrial architecture, massive investment has turned the area into a lively modern urban centre of culture, entertainment, gastronomy and commerce. Now, find over 24,000m of total commercial space open to the public. Visitors will find an impressive museum covering the site’s industrial history, the BioBazar eco (organic) food market and bistro, the KinoGram boutique cinema, an Event Hall with more than 600 square meters of event space, ArtBox Experience, a fitness centre,
shops, cafes and more - including a bevy of events.
To top it all off, a trendy indoor Food Town lives at the heart of the space, with 23 gastronomy concepts from around the globe, and 5 bars to add to the service! Additionally, Hala Gimlet, is an everyday live music space, featuring bands, DJs and jazz sessions. This is the ideal spot for a day-to-night date, as there is plenty going on and lots of shopping, eating and drinking to be had! But it's not just a place to go out on the town. Young families will also find a lot of options here, starting with Smart Kids Planet (p.82), an educational play center for young children to partake in the fun with highly interactive games, activities and more! . This truly is the astounding cutting edge of Warsaw’s urban culture, so check it out.QC/D‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.fabrykanorblina.pl TE6
This delightful square connects the city’s past to its present and unites the worlds of commerce, religion, entertainment and art. The main attraction is the 19th century Renaissance All Saints’ Church. From 1941 it was inside the Warsaw Ghetto and Parish Priest Fr. Monsignor Marceli Godlewski helped to house Jews in the rectory and assisted several to
escape. Rebuilt after the war, the entire square has been recently renovated and today features dozens of benches, neatly landscaped grassy areas and even a pond with a waterfall. Very well lit, it’s a wonderful place to relax or enjoy the many bars and cafes that surround it, day or night.
Joining the square is ul. Próżna, the only full street that survived the Jewish Ghetto. It is here in the former heart of the Jewish Warsaw (p.74) that the Singer Jewish Culture Festival takes place each year in late August/early September. The Nożyk Synagogue - the city’s only synagogue to survive the war and still in use today - can also be found close by at ul. Twarda 6.QE‑7, MŚwiętokrzyska.
There is plenty of great shopping to be had in and around Warsaw, and Złote Tarasy, seated next to the central train station, is no exception with great stores like Sephora, Van Graaf and Zara.
But many people actually admire the complex for its aesthetic style and ultra modern architecture. Even if you’re not in the mood to shop, it’s a good idea to check out the space, which has a 10,000m glass dome fitted with a special mechanism to both filter sunrays and stop snow from building up. The dome itself is reminiscent of waves, water, balloons, bubbles -- basically any form without a straight edge. The 1.5 billion zł project was designed by a California-based firm and construction began in 2002. After it was completed in 2004, the design - sleek, contemporary, eye-catching - won the firm an award by a famous London-based architecture magazine. It’s worth stepping inside to see the multi-level beloved behemouth in person! QE‑8, ul. Złota 59, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 222 22 00, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open 09:00 22:00; Sun 09:00 21:00.
Plac Grzybowski
8 Pasaż Wiecha and the Eastern Wall
Pasaż Wiecha runs parallel to ul. Marszałkowska in the shadow of departments stores, known as the ‘Eastern Wall.’ The area has undergone a lot of lives and style inspirations over the last century. Initially, the buzzword for architects in the region was Socialist Realism, a severe style following strict guidelines from a Soviet masterplan. The death of Stalin in 1953 changed all that and architects looked to the west for inspiration. This led to all manner of brutalist monstrosities rising from the ruins left after WWII. One was this massive wall of buildings, which is now among the oldest department store/ retail complexes in Poland. Designed by architect Zbigniew Karpiński and completed in 1969, the buildings were hailed a work of genius, but soon fell into neglect.
Eventually new life was breathed into the complex. Now, find shining glass frontages added to the department stores, and granite floored pedestrian walkways and modern tubular lighting added to the section behind the Jerozolimskie end.
Although once entirely dodgy, Pasaż Wiecha - the long space behind the ‘Eastern Wall’ - is today lined with shops and restaurant gardens on both sides, making it an interesting area to explore. It also increasingly plays host to events like food fairs. Ironically, the centrepiece of the city’s big 1960s redevelopment plan is now a focal point in the ‘Nowe Centrum Warszawy’ plan, which will see this immediate area redeveloped once again in the near future. It’s all part of a larger plan to support a lively pedestrian corridor through the city centre from here to ul. Nowy Świat (p.51) via ul. Chmielna. Start a wander east down the latter from here to see how far the city has progressed so far.QF‑7/8, MCentrum.
Warsaw’s newest public square opened in July 2022 at the intersection of Bracka, Krucza, Zgody, Szpitalna and Chmielna Streets - hence the name, ‘Five Corner Square.’ Although the new design still features a lot of concrete, 22 maple trees have been added to the space, as well as numerous benches with almost 40 sitting places. Most significantly, the entire area has been opened up and given over to pedestrians, which is a huge improvement over the urban tangle that previously prevailed here. Plac Pięciu Rogów is basically the centrepiece of redevelopment works throughout this area which are transforming ul. Chmielna into a high street for pedestrians A great area for exploration: you’ll plenty of cafes, restaurants, bars and intriguing places for relaxing and refuelling. QG‑7/8, MCentrum, www.plac5rogow.pl
In the aftermath of WWII, this star-shaped roundabout became dominated by PRL-era buildings from the 1950s, but still harbours a couple of gems. The first is the conspicuous Church of the Holiest Saviour, from which the square takes its name (Saviour Square). Built in neo-Renaissance style in the 1920s, that it stands is a marvel, considering it was dynamited by the Nazis during WWII and then tagged for demolition by the communists.
The other pre-war building here is the handsome Jasieńczyk-Jabłoński tenement (Mokotowska 12), erected in 1910. Upon completion, it was not only one of the most modern, but also the tallest residential building in Warsaw (38 m).
From 2012–2015, Julita Wójcik’s “Rainbow” art installation notably soared over Plac Zbawiciela. A 9m-high 26m-wide rainbow made of plastic flowers, the piece proved too controversial for PL’s anti-LGBT factions, who repeatedly lit it on fire until it was removed. Though there have been plans to replace it with a fireproof version, the current political climate doesn’t seem conducive to its return. That aside, Saviour Square today is quite the progressive meeting place for students, artists and activists who favour the hip bars here like Plan B (Al. Wyzwolenia 18) and Charlotte (Al. Wyzwolenia 18/2U).QG‑10, MPolitechnika.
Known locally as Politechnika Warszawska, this is one of the largest universities of technology in Central Europe, with over 36,000 students. The historic main building is a wonder of neo-baroque architecture designed at the turn of the 19th century. Stout, sturdy and with unique rounded corners, the two-story building survived WWII bombing and was quickly retouched after the war. Its facade features an array of architectural embellishments: sculptures, bas-reliefs, frescoes and sgraffito. If you think the exterior is impressive, head inside to see the pentagonal cloister courtyard with four stories of arcades, staircase and beautiful stained-glass roof. QF‑10, Plac Politechniki 1, MPolitechnika. Open 08:00 18:00.
If you're wondering where all the students are, this might be the answer. This is one of Warsaw's handful of marvelous indoor market halls, with food, shopping, art and more! And this is definitely one to check out because it's photogenic, with a phenomenal ground-floor food hall, with everything form dim sum to gelato, burgers, fries and more! There are plenty of boutique shops and a lot of great events held here. This is urban revitalisation at its most impressive and photogenic. See more on p.99 QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00 01:00.
Sk y s c r a p e r s
Warsaw has plainly stated its ambition to have more skyscrapers than any other city in Europe. The city currently has 25 buildings over 100m high, with another 10 approved for construction, and enough pending approval to potentially bring the total up to 65 in the coming years. Beloved by locals and symbolic of the city’s aspiration to be the most modern capital in Europe, here are some of the most notable towers in town.
Varso: This neomodern office complex is the tallest building in the EU at 310m (though the last 80m is a spire). An observation deck at 230m is being planned for the summer of 2025. QE 8.
Palace of Culture & Science: Buy a ticket, then head up to the 30th floor of Warsaw’s oldest and second tallest skyscraper (237m) for amazing panoramic views from an actual open-air terrace More on p.27 QE 9.
Warsaw UNIT: Warsaw’s 5th tallest tower (202m) was completed in 2021. Included is the wild new adrenaline attraction Skyfall Warsaw - a vertigo-inducing glass box that dangles outside the building (available to companies and special events)QC 8.
Złota 44: Designed by Daniel Libeskind, this luxury residential tower is one of Wawa’s most beautiful and distinctive skyscrapers, and its 7th tallest (192m).QE 8.
InterContinental Hotel: At 165m, Warsaw’s InterContinental Hotel is one of the tallest 5-star hotels in the world, and features the highest swimming pool in Europe at 150m. Open to non-guests, go have a swim in the clouds.QE 8.
Centrum LIM/Warsaw Presidential Hotel: The Panorama Sky Bar on the 40th floor of this veteran skyscraper (completed 1989) offers a liquid view to the city. Although the drinks are among Wawa’s most expensive, this is one of the city’s most accessible views.QE 9.
Warsaw - THE HUB: Completed in 2020, this complex consists of two 130m buildings and an 86m building. For great views, head up to the bar on the 21st floor - The Roof (p.106).QC 8.
Atlas Tower: 119m tall and completed way back in 1999, the locals think this one looks like a porta-loo, but the 27th floor features one of the best luxury roof clubs in the world, Level 27. The building is also home to the Invisible Exhibition (p.72). QE 9.
A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement facades and picturesque plazas, it’s easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaw’s top tourist area. A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ when Warsaw was a pearl of European architecture, the Old Town was actually entirely rebuilt after WWII. Today it stands as a stunning testament of Varsovians’ great pride in their city, and its rise from the ruins. If you have only one day in Warsaw, you should spend part of it here.
In the devastating aftermath of the Warsaw Uprising (p.76), 85% of the city’s left bank lay in ruin, half of its population had perished, and the Old Town was a smouldering wasteland. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau immediately started rebuilding the historic centre using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs. The first phase of reconstruction was completed in 1953, but works continued in the following decades, finally concluding with the opening of the Royal Castle (p.40) in 1984. Although what you see today is not strictly ‘original’ per say, its inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List speaks volumes of its authenticity and the effort required to recreate it.
Our Old Town Walking Tour leads you around the oldest part of the city, showing you its most important and interesting points, beginning and ending near Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square) - the traditional entrance to the district.
The prescribed route covers only about 1.5km. If you’re only interested in the exercise, it could take less than 30mins, but ‘if done correctly’ - that is, with a couple of short culture, food and coffee/beer breaks - we reckon it will take at most several hours to complete. Make sure you’ve got a full charge on your phone/camera, comfy shoes and off you go.
Most visits to the Old Town begin on Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square), the busy plaza where Warsaw’s medieval centre (to the north), meets the thoroughfare of its Royal Route (to the south), in the shadow of the Royal Castle. More of a triangle than a square, there isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city, with the steps of King Sigismund’s Column typically besieged by couples, schoolkids and skateboarders. A lot happens here, whether it’s political demonstrations, street performers, or the steady flow of locals and tourists out for a stroll.
As for the famous column, it honours the man who in 1596 moved the Polish capital from Kraków to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa. 22 metres tall, it was erected in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived and was returned to his perch in 1949.
Also note that there is a tourist info office located here at Plac Zamkowy 1/13 (open 10:00-18:00, Sunday 10:00-16:00). so you'll be able to find all the information you need before you explore further.
QF‑4, MRatusz Arsenał.
When it was rebuilt, Warsaw implemented a vision of its Old Town as a place of culture. Today it harbours a remarkable number of museums! You may already know the famous ones (Royal Castle, Museum of Warsaw) so here we're highlighting some of the other impressive spaces:
Archdiocese Museum: Displaying both the sacred and profane, this surprising and underrated art museum has several fascinating paintings and over 10,000 items dating back to the Middle Ages. (p.73).Qul. Dziekania 1.
Museum of Dollhouses: Over 150 highly detailed historical dollhouses, plus various other minature settings, and old toys! This is a great spot for not only children, but adults, too!Qul. Podwale 15. More on p. 71
World of Illusion: A nice reward for the kids, the exhibits will fool your eyes and meld your mind just a bit. Colors, lights and illusions! Bonus: you'll go home with lots of fun photos so make sure to bring a camera. More on p.78 QRynek Starego Miasta 21
Pharmacy Museum: Travel back in time to a charmingly antiquated interwar 'apteka.' Nominated for 'European Museum of the Year 2022.' Qul. Piwna 31/33.
Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre: Go into these cellars for a deep dive on how Warsaw's Old Town went from ruin to the UNESCO List. Qul. Brzozowa 11/13.
Chopin Live Concerts: Though not strictly a museum, these daily live Chopin concerts at the Dean's Palace are a cultural gem and not to be missed! More on p.79. Qul. Dziekania 1.
The pride of Warsaw, this palace was reconstructed at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by communist-era cohorts such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money came via generous donations from exiled Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the residence of Polish kings, presidents and the seat of Parliament. Some of the halls are purported to be haunted by a ‘white lady,’ whose ghostly appearance portends disaster.
Those who plonk down for admission (60zł/45zł) will have plenty to see, including the Kings’ apartments and chambers, the Houses of Parliament and the opulent Great Assembly Hall. Additional tickets are required for the Gallery of Masterpieces and the apartments of Prince Józef Poniatowski - aka the ‘TinRoofed Palace’ (open Wed, Sat, Sun only, 10:00-18:00; 40/30zł).
Luckily for families, children under 7 get in for free, while those 7-16 years old have to pay 1zł! Visiting time: 2hrs.QG‑4, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek krolewski.pl. Open 10:00 17:00; closed Mon. Admission 60/45zł. Kids & students with valid ID, 1zł for each exhibit; Wed free for all exhibits. U
This huge monument honours Jan Kiliński, a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence - an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment in St. Petersburg.
Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally located on Plac Krasińskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful place, before being relocated here in 1959.
Kiliński’s comrade and superior Tadeusz Kościuszko himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5; this wide street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the narrow street running at a 90-degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages.QF‑4, ul. Podwale.
The first sections of Warsaw’s defensive walls date back to the late 13th century, and by the end of the 14th century they stretched 1,200 meters, enclosing an area of about 8.5ha, and included 8 towers and 4 city gates. The most famous of these now non-existent structures was the Kraków Gate on Plac Zamkowy, and the Marshall’s Tower - the highest point in the defensive structures - near the corner of ul. Krzywe Koło and ul. Brzozowa.
Already in the 15th century these defenses were deemed insufficient and a second, lower line of brick walls was built along today’s ul. Podwale at a distance of just 9-14m from the previous walls; a moat was dug in-between and the Barbican was built in 1548 as the final piece of the defenses.
As Varsovians were already settling in numbers beyond the city walls, these fortifications quickly became obsolete and from the 17th century they were being demolished or incorporated into tenement buildings. Ironically it was the total destruction of the Old Town that allowed these walls to be rebuilt after WWII and today the space between the two historical brick ramparts forms a pedestrian promenade parallel to ul. Podwale known as
‘Międzymurzę.’ Apart from all the interesting history, there are some incredible modern experiences to be had here. Listen to live music played by buskers, grab some food in the winter (a lovely Christmas market is held here in December, serving bigos, mulled wine and more, along with some excellent souveniers you will not be able to find elsewhere). But one of our favorite aspects of this spot is, simply, the photo opportunities. So many great pictures to be had so bring your camera! QF‑4, Międzymurzę Jana Zachwatowicza.
The communist authorities continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, though by the early 1980s cracks in their resolve were beginning to show, and this small-butpoignant monument made its debut in 1983.
Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by collections undertaken by scouts, the sculpture commemorates the children who had to grow up fast, serving as messengers and frontline troops during the Uprising. With its oversized helmet and rifle, the bronze figure was inspired by the story of 13-year-old corporal Antek, himself killed in action near this spot on August 8, 1944. For history buffs, this is the spot to go, hands (or arms) down.QF‑4, ul. Podwale.
Crowning the set of the medieval defensive walls which once protected the northern entrance to the city, this fearsome rotund structure dates from 1548, built by architect Giovanni Battista Venetian on the site of an earlier gate.
Despite its intended use, the Barbican was only ever used in one fighting action when on June 30, 1656, during the Swedish deluge, Polish troops attacked to retake the city. In the 18th century, the Barbican was partially demolished with the remains being incorporated into new apartment buildings. It was during the interwar period that restoration work
Continue along the Old Town defensive walls to the Barbican, and on to the Old Town Square?
Or, duck out of the medieval walls and down ul. Kilińskiego, hanging a left on ul. Długa for a short <20min/1.5km walk to the POLIN Museum (D-4, p.75) via the imposing Warsaw Uprising Monument and lovely Krasiński Palace and Gardens (E-4)?
began to return the Barbican to its former glory, but alas, World War II put a hold to works, with it being completely destroyed.
Along with the Old Town reconstruction, the fortified wall and Barbican were restored. Today, it serves as a bridge between the Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenage drinkers, buskers and 'artists' selling their wares. Interested in more Barbican history? During the warmer months you can pop inside to see a small exhibition put together by the Museum of Warsaw. Even if that's not available to you, make sure to swing by this spot to simply marvel at the architecture and the impressiveness. Then make sure to head back into the rest of the Old Town for a great bite (p.44)QF‑3/4
Stay on target with a stroll through the Barbican towards the Old Town Square?
Or take a detour down charming pedestrian thoroughfare ul. Freta, past the Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum (p.70), en route to the New Town Square (350m away)?
Measuring 90 by 73 metres, the Old Town Square is prewar Warsaw’s defining highlight, lined with richly decorated tenements - keep an eye out for the ‘House Under the Lion,’ with frescos by Zofia Stryjeńska (our Polish artistic crush - look up her work) at the southwest corner leading onto ul. Świetojańska.
Today the buildings around the Rynek host numerous cafes, restos, shops and museumsMuseum of Warsaw occupies the entire northern side of the square, World of Illusion (p.78) can be found at number 21, and number 27 is home to Warsaw’s oldest, most prestigious restaurant, U Fukiera (p.97).
During the 15th century the square was home to Warsaw’s Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Today, it features Warsaw’s best-loved monument and the city’s defining symbol - Syrenka, aka the Warsaw Mermaid Cast in 1855, this busty vixen’s form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in the capital.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta.
Inside 11 conjoined historical tenements on the Old Town Square, this revamped museum’s permanent exhibit, ‘The Things of Warsaw,’ presents the city’s cultural history via 7,000 objects displayed over 22 thematic rooms. Included are portraits, postcards, souvenirs, and other items with representations of the Polish capital. Additionally, a new exhibit Testimonies from the Warsaw Ghetto shines a light on the difficult history of the city's ghetto in the 1940s, told by people who experienced it. Finally, there’s a bookstore, cafe and fabulous viewpoint overlooking the Old Town Square. Well worth a visit! Visiting time: 2-3hrs.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 28 42, www.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00 17:00; Thu 9:00 19:00; Sat 11:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 35/25zł; permanent exhibit only 25/18zł; temp. exhibit only 20/15zł; Thu free. U6
Warsaw’s Old Town is full of restaurants and bars, but, as this is literally the most touristy part of the city, the quality varies. When it’s time to take a break, here are a few places that are worth the money and worth seeking out.
U Fukiera: Adhering to tradition with extravagant flair, this famous restaurant on the Old Town Square offers an exceptional dining experience.Qp.96.
Gospoda pod Zygmuntem:This veteran Polish restaurant is as traditional as it gets, with potato pancakes, pierogi, kotlet, and so, so much more. Make sure to stop here for the authentic stuff.Qp.91.
Ciao Napoli: Authentic Neapolitan pizza (the best in town?), fresh seafood and a lovely space make this affordable franchise deservedly popular. Plus, there's outdoor seating! Qp.90
U Barssa: This classy restaurant brings a refreshing refinement to the Market Square with traditional Polish cuisine. Try their signature ‘Duck a la Barssa’ Qp.93.
Bar and Books: Open after 17:00, this sophisticated, dimly-lit cocktail and whiskey bar occasionally hosts live music on weekends.Qul. Wąski Dunaj 20.
Demonstrating how every word sounds exotic when you don’t know the language, Gnojna Góra may sound like another charming stop on your tour. And it is for the views over the Vistula River, but not for the name, which literally translates as Shit Hill (Dung Hill, if you wish to be more polite). For centuries, this was the dumping ground for all of the Old Town’s waste. As you can imagine, it grew over time and the distinctive shape can best be seen from the bottom. At one stage it was actually renowned for its healing properties - people with obscene amounts of money would come here to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis (doesn’t work, it turns out). From here head back towards the centre via ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city, then swerve onto ul. Kanonia.QG‑4, ul. Brzozowa.
Once the site of the oldest cemetery in Warsaw, Kanonia Street takes the shape of a small square, at the centre of which is a cracked cathedral bell dating back to 1646. Cast by artisan Daniel Tym (who also made the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column), the bell never actually rang at St. John’s Cathedral next to it, but it has developed its own legend: touch the top of the bell while walking its circumference and your wish will come true Across from the bell is one of the world’s most narrow houses at number 20/22. Only 2m across, it was designed to evade property taxes, which in the 18th century (when it was built) were calculated
based on the width of the facade facing the main street. Also note the covered walkway nearby, which links the Cathedral to the Royal Castle and was built after a failed assassination attempt on Sigismund III. The attacker, who succeeded in striking the King twice with a pickaxe before being overpowered, was subsequently dealt with using the most medieval means imaginable: stretched by four horses, he was quartered with an axe; his body was then burned, and the ashes fired from a musket so as to disperse them in the air. This was all done in public, of course, at the city’s execution place, a few blocks away at the end of ul. Piekaska.QG‑4, ul. Kanonia.
Originally built in the 14th century, St John’s is steeped in history. The last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was crowned and buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the May 3rd Constitution inside the building. The bodies of Henryk Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Poland’s 1st president) and various Mazovian knights can be seen in the crypt (open Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 15:00-17:00, closed during mass; admission 5/3zł). As with most major landmarks, it was left in a heap of ruins during the Warsaw Uprising, before being rebuilt in pseudo-gothic style. On the external wall by the main entrance are fragments of a Borgward IV - a remote-controlled demolition vehicle used by the German army.QF/G‑4, ul. Świętojańska 8, www.katedra.mkw.pl. Open 06:00 20:00; Sun 07:00 22:00.
Circling back to Plac Zamkowy you can either carry on down the Royal Route (turn the page), or circle round the back of the Royal Castle for a walk through the free gardens and down along the riverbank towards Powiśle (p.52).
The fall light always hits the Royal Route just right - perfect for pictures.
Warsaw’s famed ‘Royal Route’ links the city’s three Royal residences, starting from the Royal Castle (p.40) on Plac Zamkowy, via Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Isle (p.56), en route to Wilanów Palace (p.60) in the district of the same name. Officially covering 11km in length, this main artery through the city takes in a great many of Warsaw’s historical buildings, parks and monuments along the way, making a trip down at least part of the ‘path of the kings’ - be it on foot, by bike, or motorised scooter - a fine opportunity to see the heart and soul of the capital.
In lieu of the full 11km traverse, this walking tour picks up at the end of the Old Town Walking Tour (p.38) on Plac Zamkowy and guides you gently down Warsaw’s two main high streets - ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście and ul. Nowy Świat - to the ironic/ iconic Palm Tree fittingly at the intersection of Al. Jerozolimskie (Jerusalem Street). An easy 2km/20mins on foot, along the way or very nearby you’ll find many wonderful restaurants, cafes, bars and shops, so use the rest of our guide to plan your pit stops. Once you've exhausted these options, continue on the Royal Route to Łazienki and Wilanów (while resting your feet) should you choose to, or veer off to the center of the city and see the Palace of Culture or grab a good bite to eat.
We'll start at the iconic column in front of the Royal Castle, which effectively begins the transition between Old Town and Royal Route. Built in honour of the man who moved the Polish capital from Kraków to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa - this 22m column was erected back in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived, losing only his sword, and was returned to his new perch in 1949. The remains of the original column can be seen nearby beside the Royal Castle and has become a kind of meeting point for friends, tourists and everyone in between! QF‑4, Pl. Zamkowy
2 St. Anne’s Church & Tower
St. Anne’s survived the war with a few scratches and a bombed-out roof, but what the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished in 1949 when the careless construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel led to landslides and huge cracks in the floor of the church, which threatened to collapse; it took 400 people two weeks to stabilise the foundations. Interestingly, St. Anne’s also found disaster in the 17th century, when it survived the Swedish Deluge only to be the victim of arson two years later. The classical façade dates from 1788 and the interior holds even more classical and rococo details. The real reason to visit, however, are the splendid views from the tower - worth the 147-step climb (church and tower open 10:00-21:00 weekdays and 11:00-22:00 weekends) 10/7zł. Call +48 22 374 94 84).QG‑4, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 91, www.swanna.waw.pl.
Open 10:00 18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 18:00.
3 Adam Mickiewicz Monument
Patriot and poet Adam Mickiewicz (1798-1855) is Poland’s greatest literary hero. Known as the ‘Father of Polish Romanticism,’ his epic poems and dramas served as inspiration for insurrections against the imperial powers that had partitioned Poland out of existence in the late 18th century.
Born to an upper class Polish family in what is today Belarus, Mickiewicz attended university in Vilnius, where he began publishing his poems and became involved in political activities against imperial Russia, which now occupied the former territory of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. These activities saw him exiled to Russia in 1824, but Mickiewicz was
able to leverage connections he made in the salons of Moscow and St. Petersburg to escape to the west in 1830, eventually settling in Paris. A champion of freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak in Turkey, while recruiting a Polish legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea in 1855. His body today lies with those of the Polish kings in Kraków’s Wawel Cathedral. To learn more, visit the Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature on the Old Town Square (F-4).
This monument was first unveiled in 1898 on the 100th anniversary of Mickiewicz’s birth. Sculpted by Cyprian Godebski, the monument was destroyed by the Nazis, however, after WWII, Polish soldiers recovered Mickiewicz’s head and other demolished parts in Hamburg. Sculptor Jan Szczepkowski was able to produce a copy of the original sculpture, which was unveiled, along with its restored surroundings, in 1950.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 21 23, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.
Krakowskie Przedmieście is easily one of Poland’s most prestigious and well-known streets - the price tag of the rents matches the prestige! The street stretches from the Royal Castle in the Old Town (p.38) until it blends into ul. Nowy Świat. It is along the length of this street, and beyond, that you will easily find our list of things to see along the way - it’s almost impossible to get lost! As you walk along the route, be sure to stop at any of the 15 Chopin Benches. Designed by Professor Jerzy Porębski, they feature a button, when pressed, unleash a 30 second torrent of Chopin. Each bench contains descriptions in EN/PL to the site’s relevance to the composer. This is a delightful walk down one of the prettiest parts of the city. QG‑4, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.
Guarded by lions and stern-looking soldiers, of all the landmarks that line Krakowskie Przedmieście, none is more important than the Presidential Palace. Construction began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It then passed into the hands of various aristocratic families, becoming famed for its banquets in the 18th century - the most extravagant of which marked the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789; over 2 million PLN was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests.
Poniatowski proved to be one of the nation’s most controversial monarchs - and also its last. Among his successes was the Constitution of May 3, 1791 Signed on these very grounds, it was the
2nd such document in the world, after the US Constitution. The large monument in front of the Palace is of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski A Polish general, he defended Warsaw during the Kościuszko Uprising and eventually died in the service of Napoleon.
After 1818 the Palace became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, entertaining many a visiting Tsar before burning down in 1852. At the beginning of the 20th century an entire wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918, the Palace was commandeered to serve as home for the Prime Minister, and somehow it survived WWII. More momentous events came in 1955 when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO - was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as the official home of the Polish president, which is why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out. QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.
Carry on down the Royal Route? Or perhaps hang a right after the Hotel Europejski down ul. Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza towards Plac Piłsudskiego (p.30)? Choose the latter to see Warsaw’s largest square and escape the urban hub-bub via the lovely Saxon Garden, a stroll through which leads you into the City Centre and on a path to Hala Gwardii (E-6) and Hala Mirowska (D-6) - two massive indoor markets 15-20mins on foot from where you’re standing.
Two of the biggest, most famous landmarks on prestigious ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście are former palaces turned luxury hotels today. The first is Hotel Bristol at number 42/44. First built in 1900, a brass plaque outside boasts of its many famous guests: Picasso, Nixon and Dietrich, to name a few. In 1993 it was restored to its pre-war glory and the re-opening ceremony was such a big deal, it was attended by Ms. Margaret Thatcher. Refreshed repeatedly since, it is certainly among the very top hotels in the capital, boasting an interior by world-renowned designer Anita Rosato that blends secessionist and art deco glamour with modern luxury. If you can’t afford to spend the night, you can still drop in to the wonderfully old school Cafe Bristol - a perfect place for coffee or breakfast.
Across the street is the revamped Raffles Hotel Europejski. The first hotel to reopen after WWII, it entered Varsovian folklore in 1967 when a group of young upstarts calling themselves ‘the Rolling Stones’ stayed here, under the watchful eye of the authorities, and had themselves quite a time tipping back vodkas in the hotel bar. In 2018 the hotel was refurbed for the Raffles brand and today it is a stunning luxury space full of contemporary art and custom furnishings. If you want to have your proverbial socks knocked off, explore the building’s many first-rate dining and drinking venues, Though you might not be able to afford anything, you can still wander through Europejski Boutiques - the most exclusive shopping experience in the country.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, 13.
The good city of Warsaw has devised one more way to bring Chopin to the people, and that’s by way of fifteen musical benches that have been placed at key sites connected with his life since 2019. Made of cast iron and polished black granite, these benches, designed by Professor Jerzy Porębski, feature a button which when pressed unleash a thirty second torrent of Chopin. They also come equipped with a route map as well as brief explanations in Polish and English as to the site’s relevance to Chopin. However, that’s not all. These benches see Chopin go techno: each one comes inscribed with a QR code – scan it and download the Chopin App to access audioguides, Chopin melodies, facts, figures and photographs. This is, at the very least, a fun little trick to show your friends as you sit down for a much-needed rest while exploring the Old Town and Royal Route!QG‑6, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, www.biuro.chopin2010.pl
An awarded restaurant with traditionally handcrafted pierogi
Join us at our restaurant along the Royal Route. We combine modern design with traditional recipes in a historic setting. Try our handcrafted pierogies and more. Discover flavor and history in one place!
Syrena Irena: Dive into modern Polish food done well. Order a variety of pierogi and customize your order with exciting toppings in this chic spot. Qp.93
Specjały Regionalne: Experience some of the best Polish food the capital has to offer, from juicy duck leg to fluffy dumplings and Polish charcuterie boards, all in a space filled with traditional Polish folk art. This is a must!Qp.93.
13 Rogów Food and Friends: A great pit stop on Nowy Świat, drop in for delicious burgers, drinks and more.Qp.88.
Gościniec Polskie Pierogi: Immense portions of traditional Polish fare and charming service. What's not to like?.Qp.90.
Carry on further and you’re in Warsaw Universityland, the main campus of which lies beyond the grand gateway of number 26/28. Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as ‘Villa Regia,’ was remodelled and renovated several times before Warsaw Uni was established here in 1816. The university had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in retaliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the uni continued to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar calmed down enough to rubber stamp the creation of a School of Medicine. Today, with some 48,000 students on the roll call, the university
stands out as the largest and arguably best in Poland. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning travel writer Ryszard Kapuściński, the late president Lech Kaczyński and the poet Julian Tuwim.QG‑6, Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, www.en.uw.edu.pl
No self-respecting Chopin fan (is that you?) can leave Warsaw without first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Smuggled out of Paris in a jar of booze by his sister (true story), Chopin’s heart was brought to the church in accordance with his final wishes in 1882 and is sealed in an urn behind a tablet bearing his likeness, specially carved by Leonardo Marconi.
Although Chopin’s ticker serves as the church’s key draw there are several other notable features and funereal remains to tempt you inside this astonishing Baroque creation. These include another urn with the remains of Nobel Prize-winning author Władysław Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons including poet Juliusz Słowacki and WWII hero Władysław Sikorski. The organ, built in Salzburg in 1925, is also the largest in Warsaw.
Throughout a history that dates back to the 15th century, Holy Cross Church has played a role in Warsaw’s glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944, the church was painstakingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the heart, eyes and soul, filled with elaborate decorative details that make dropping inside worthwhile.
QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, MNowy Świat
Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl.
Open 10:00 11:30, 13:00 16:00; Sun 14:00 16:00.
10 Nicolaus Copernicus Monument
The founder of modern astronomy. A sheltered academic, Copernicus made his observations alone, a century before the invention of the telescope. His book De Revolutionibus (1543) posited that the earth rotated on its axis once a day, travelled around the sun once a year, and that man’s place in the cosmos was peripheral. Though obvious today, this was an utterly radical idea at the time. Although those who propagated his ideas were burned at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no
turning back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy.
The statue itself was unveiled in 1830 and has seen its share of adventure. During WWII the Nazis placed a new plaque here insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp! - a German. A boy scout named Alek Dawidowski ducked the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis removed the monument, then dynamited a few others for good measure. The statue was recovered after the war, and Dawidowski entered Polish folklore for his bravery.
QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.
The name of this street means “New World” and it is an apt description; just south of ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, Nowy Świat has a similar look to the Old Town but instead of museums and history, you’ll find food, beer, live music and a street constantly bursting at the seams with life. Like much of the Old Town, Nowy Swiat was also razed during WWII, but was rebuilt almost immediately following in a neo-classical style, rather than its pre-war Art Nouveau style. Legend (and history) goes that this street was rebuilt based partly on paintings of its pre-war ancestor. Make sure to stop by Karmello for some chocolate nosh and coffee, or 13 Rogów Food and Friends for some seriously delicious food. If it’s nightlife you’re after, there’s plenty of bars: Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whiskey (open until 3 a.m. Thu-Sat) will serve all the bright colored drinks you want; across the street, Kufle i Kapsle has a craft beer menu that will make even the snobbiest beer snob happy. We could go on, but there is a lot in the way of eating and drinking and fun. Finish your journey by taking in the towering palm tree 12 at the intersection between Nowy Świat and Al. Jerozolimskie, an art installation that’s a beloved little touch of the tropics in the middle of town. QH‑8.
Running alongside the Vistula River, Powiśle has some amazing sights and great spots to stop
Once a mundane area of apartment blocks and industrial decay, over the past two decades Powiśle has transformed into one of Warsaw’s most intriguing and eclectic areas to explore.
Considering its plum location along the riverside, it’s hard to believe that this large neighbourhood was essentially a cultural dead zone until skyrocketing rent costs in the centre forced Warsaw to reconsider its potential. Now, Powiśle has become a hotspot for everything cool, young and happening in Warsaw, so much so that the city decided to recently open a gorgeous pedestrian bridge (p.55) tying the Praga (p.63) area east of the river to Powiśle (you can access it via Ul. Karowa in Powiśle or Ul. Okrzei in Praga.) The history of Powiśle's growth is interesting: Warsaw University was the first to pitch a tent in the area, creating a draw since 2002, and the adjacent opening of the Copernicus Science Centre (p.54) in 2009 invited further cultural investments. Then the Metro (2015) helped make it into a popular place for public recreation. The redevelopment of the former Elektrownia Powiśle (p.53) power plant into a space for events, dining and shopping (2020) typifies the high-powered investment taking place here today. Still, Powiśle maintains an authentic local vibe thanks to its balance of both trendsetting gastro spots and boho dives (like the iconic rotund Warszawa Powiśle bar I-7). Roll yourself downhill towards the river from Warsaw’s Old Town or City Centre to discover what’s good in this hood!
Warsaw’s Chopin Museum is touted as one of the most high-tech in Europe. Three floors of interactive exhibits cover the composer’s life in every aspect, including a recreation of his Paris drawing room, the last letter he wrote to his family, his death mask, and even an intriguing section on his social circle. In addition, there are dozens of touchscreens, audio-visuals, and musical games, making the museum a highly interactive experience that will keep visitors of all ages engaged. Thirty-minute live concerts take place every Sat and Sun at 12:00, 15:00 and 17:00 (available to all museum visitors). Visitor numbers are restricted, so we suggest reserving tickets online in advance. Located in the famous Ostrogski Palace, the building’s catacombs are said to be home to the legendary Golden Duck - a princess charmed by the Devil before being transformed. Visiting time: 1hr. Q H‑7, ul. Okólnik 1, M Nowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, www.muzeum.nifc.pl Open 10:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 30/20zł.
Warsaw’s ‘Syrenka’ - the iconic freshwater warrior mermaid - has been representing the Polish capital since time immemorial. The monument here is the second-most famous statue of the city’s symbol (the first being on the Old Town Square, (p.43), though this one actually overlooks the river the mythical icon is alleged to have dwelled in. At 2.75 metres tall, the bronze monument was unveiled in June 1939, just months before the outbreak of WWII; remarkably it stood unscathed in this exact spot throughout the entire war.QI‑6, Bulwar Bohdana Grzymały Siedleckiego (near Most Świętokrzyski), MCentrum Nauki Kopernik.
Warsaw has modernised and improved its left bank dramatically in the last decade. The Powiśle boulevards flanking the Świętokrzyski Bridge and leading north to the Old Town have seen the most development and are now a popular thoroughfare for walking, running, cycling and skating, as well as bars, cafes and restaurants - particularly in the warmer months - plus parks and leisure spaces. .It’s fair to say that Warsaw’s river boulevards are now among the best in Europe so don’t miss having a stroll along the water while in town.QI‑6, Generała George’a Smitha Pattona, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik.
Once one of the largest electrical power plants in Europe, Elektrownia Powiśle powered the Polish capital from 1904 to 2001 before it was closed and left to crumble. Purchased by a developer in 2016, the historic industrial site was transformed into a multifunctional, mixed-use urban centre. Covering a massive 50,000m2, much of the site has been converted into offices, apartments and a hotel, but a remaining 15,000m2 in the former boiler and engine
When it’s time for a rest or a feed, there are many worthy venues on and around ul. Solec - one of the main streets in the area, as well as numerous food trucks and barges moored up along the river. Also, Elektrownia Powiśle has an entire food hall inside, so your options are manifold. Here are a few other notable venues in the neighbourhood:
Champs Sports Bar: If you're in the mood for some fun, casual eats, then Champs is the right spot. With Tex-Mex offerings and plenty of tvs to watch the match, this is the ultimate sports and entertainment bar. Qp. 103
LAS: Lush but refined, this ‘forest’ uses local, seasonal ingredients to create contemporary incarnations of Polish classics, plus unusual cocktails.QI-7, ul. Solec 44.
Tres Toros: Affectionately known as 'Little Spain', Tres Toros brings you into the vibrant world of classic Iberian cuisine, its flavours and colours. Located in Elektrownia (H-6).Qul. Dobra 42.
buildings comprises commercial space for retail, gastronomy and wellness. Reopened in 2020, today Elektrownia offers four levels of shopping, and is a culinary hotspot with 41 restaurants bars and cafes across the complex (get the specifics on their Food Hall on p.98). Additionally, there is a 1500m2 Beauty Hall offering over 350 cosmetic treatments from 7 beauty concepts.
Events are frequently hosted in the courtyards between the buildings, including a regular farmer’s market, yoga lessons and film screenings, and there’s also a multimedia fountain. Whatever your proclivity, there are plenty of reasons to check out one of Warsaw’s most exciting and successful urban renewal projects. Note that different areas of the space have different opening times.QH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Open 11:00 21:00. Food Hall open 12:00 23:00, Fri 12:00 24:00, Sat 11:00 24:00, Sun 11:00 22:00. TU6K
An example of EU funding being used in a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is the very best science centre in Europe, and one of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions. The fun starts as soon as you encounter the museum’s very own ‘Robothespian’ - an interactive humanoid robot - at the front doors, before exploring several hundred hands-on exhibits across two floors that will have you actively pressing buttons, answering quizzes, and even exerting yourself physically. In addition to temporary exhibits and the all-ages ‘Experiment Zone,’ there are zones specially designed for the youngest visitors up to teens and adults. Note: The center reopens November but the planetarium is closed until 2025 so make sure to plan ahead!. Visiting time: 3-4hrs.QI‑6, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl. Open 09:00 19:00; Fri 09:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 19:00. Closed 1st Mon of every month. Check times on website www.kopernik.org. pl/en/planetarium. Admission 40/28zł; holidays & weekends 42/29zł; planetarium 28/20zł. U
Topping off the oxidised green library building is a lovely two-level rooftop garden filled with bridges, streams and sculptures that covers an entire hectare; there’s even a fishpond and a stone fountain mixed in among the oak trees and Japanese spirea. The garden affords panoramic views of lower left-bank Warsaw and Praga. Note: the upper part is open from April to Oct but the lower part of the garden is open year-round.QH‑5, ul. Dobra 56/66, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, www.buw.uw.edu.pl. Open 8:00 18:00 in October (no rooftop access after October until end of March). Library open Mon Sat 08:00 22:00, Sun 15:00 20:00. Admission free.
This long-awaited pedestrian footbridge opened in late March, connecting Praga on the east side of the river with Powiśle on the west. You can access it near Karowa Street in Powiśle (around Mariensztat below). The gorgeous new bridge is meant for walkers and cyclers alike, and the 502-metre structure features viewing platforms and rest areas. The Polish name, Kładka na Wiśle, means "Footbridge on the Vistula River". QH‑5, Karowa 6.
Cut off from the rest of the Old Town by Trasa W-Z, the Mariensztat area has its origins in the 18th century when nobleman Eustachy Potocki married Maria Kątska and received the land as part of Maria’s dowry. The area was built in 1762 and named after his wife Completely destroyed during the Warsaw Uprising, it was rebuilt after the war using a totally different street plan; the architectural design aimed to evoke a look mixed between 18th century buildings in the Praga district while also incorporating a socialist realist element. The picturesque neighbourhood is full of small parks and winding streets and provides a leafy retreat from the Old Town crowds.QG‑4/5, ul. Mariensztat.
From Powiśle it’s exceedingly easy to get to Praga (p.62) or the City Centre (p.28) through a lovely (albeit a little long) walk along the river toward the south. Alternatively, head north along the river to return to the Old Town (p.38) or check out New Town’s Multimedia Fountain (F-3), which is a popular attraction for young families; both are about 2km/20mins on foot.
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This glorious 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of Warsaw’s unparalleled highlights, adored year-round by locals and visitors alike. Although it seems as if half of Warsaw spends its fall Sundays here, the park is so vast that it never feels crowded and offers an enchanting opportunity to escape the capital’s modern-day gloom and get lost in its nostalgic past. Don’t mistake Łazienki for a simple city park; it is also a museum complex full of wonderful art and architecture. Don’t miss it.
The full/proper name of today’s park is ‘Łazienki Królewskie,’ which means ‘Royal Baths’ and is derived from the park’s centrepiece, the Palace on the Island
The palace was originally built in the 17th century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski, owner of the nearby Ujazdowski Castle and much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private residence. It was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as a private garden. Perfect for romantic strolls, family picnics and cultural outings, today the park is packed with gorgeous sculptures and monuments, palatial architecture and priceless art, lovely landscapes of bridges and ponds, plus cafes, restaurants and more. Note that in the winter, some of these sites shut down, including the White Pavilion and the Botanical Garden after October. See their website for more details.
While the park is free to explore, Łazienki’s indoor exhibits require a paid ticket. There are two primary ticket options:
Ticket 1: includes Palace on the Island, Myślewicki Palace, Old Orangery, White House and Water House. 50/25zł, kid under 7 & students under 26: 1zł.
Ticket 2: same as Ticket 1, plus the Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship. 60/30zł, kids under 7 & students under 26 1zł.
The Belvedere Palace was the residence of Polish presidents from 1918 to 1995 and then once again during the presidency of Bronisław Komorowski from 2010-2015 (Presidents Aleksander Kwaśniewski, Lech Kaczyński and current president Andrzej Duda opted to live in the Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście (p.48). Built in 1694 and thoroughly remodelled in 1818, the building is essentially offlimits to visitors, but an eyeful to behold. A wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns, the best views and photo ops are fetched from outside the park on Al. Ujazdowskie.QH‑12, ul. Belwederska 56.
Don’t miss this famous art nouveau sculpture of Warsaw’s favourite son, Fryderyk Chopin. Depicting the composer right here in Łazienki beneath a willow tree, the work by Wacław Szymankowski was erected in 1926. As part of the Nazi campaign against Polish culture it was dynamited by the Germans on May 31, 1940; as the story goes, the following day an unknown patriot placed a placard on the wreckage declaring: ‘I don’t know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t play the funeral march for your leader.’ An original plaster-cast allowed the statue to be revived and this reconstruction was unveiled in 1958. QH‑12.
You can also buy tickets for just the exhibit or just the museum of Hunting and Horsemanship. Buy tickets from cash desks or machines at the Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship. All exhibits have the same hours.Q H‑12, M Politechnika, tel. (+48) 22 50 60 024, www.lazienki krolewskie. pl. Park open 06:00 21:00. Indoor attractions open,Tues & Wed 10:00 17:00; Thurs & Fri 10:00 18:00; Sat 12:00 20:00; Sun 10:00 16:00. Closed Mon. Warsaw’s iconic Chopin monument.
Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three main entrances on ‘Al. Ujazdowskie’, including numbers 116 (from Old Town/Nowy Świat) and 180 (from Al. Jerozolimskie, bus stop ‘PKP Powiązki’); get off at the ‘Łazienki Królewskie’ bus stop. Accurate times and routes can be checked online at warsaw.jakdojade.pl
A good place to start a visit to Łazienki, the Old Orangery is one of two ticket offices and tourist info points in the park. Additionally, it's one of the top sights to see in the park. Originally erected in 1785-88 to house exotic trees through the once-harsh Polish winter, the sunny structure also harbours King Stanisław August’s Royal Theatre - one of the few surviving 18th century court theatres in Europe.
Constructed out of wood and covered in marblised polychromes, the ground floor is rather modest with simple benches on risers, while the upper level features nine boxes with eight female figures gripping candleholders in between. Interestingly, the space above the boxes has been painted to create the illusion of yet another level, complete with an 18thcentury court audience.
The theatre is still used today to host chamber concerts. The other important aspect of the Old Orangery is the Royal Sculpture Gallery. From the beginning of his reign, Stanisław August collected hundreds of marble and plaster copies of the most famous sculptures from antiquity. 120 of these casts are displayed. Visiting time: 30mins.QI‑11.
The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison d’etre and therefore, a true must-visit when you're going to the park. Built as a Baroque bathhouse in 1683, the structure was converted into a Neoclassical residential palace in the late 1700s by King Stanisław August.
Located on an island in the middle of a narrow lake, and connected by colonnaded bridges on each side, the façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors. Today, almost all of the palace can be visited, including the King’s private rooms
The main reception room, Solomon’s Hall, is decorated in the most extravagant of Baroque styles with a series of paintings depicting the History of Solomon. In 1793, King August converted the palace into the first modern public museum, displaying the most important paintings from his collection.
Today, 140 of these canvases are on display as the Royal Picture Gallery, and arranged as they would have been in the years 1793-1795. Visiting time: 4560mins.QI‑11.
Built in the 1770s and 80s, this elegant semi-circular palace was originally conceived as King Stanisław August's primary residence, though it gradually shifted to more diplomatic functions, hosting official state soirees and accommodating foreign ministers.
Designed in Early Classicist style, the unique recessed entrance is decorated with mythological sculptures. After a thorough renovation, the building again appears very much as it would have in the late 18th century, and a walk through the interiors - replete with original murals, furniture and art - is worth the short amount of time it takes to see them. Visiting time: 30mins.QJ‑11.
Part of the University of Warsaw, these separate gardens at Łazienki have several greenhouses stuffed with exotic, weird and wonderful species from all over the world, but what brings in the crowds are the stunning rose gardens just behind the main entrance.
A riot of colour when in full bloom, the gardens are the preferred subject matter of art students, who set up their easels early and paint until the guards kick them out at sunset. These are the perfect spots
to stop and take in some beautiful flora and fauna (highly recommended). Make sure to catch this while you can in October because it closes for the winter months, unfortunately!QH‑11, Al. Ujazdowskie 4, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 553 05 11, www.ogrod.uw.edu.pl. Open 10:00 17:00 until end of October. Greenhouses open Tuesday to Sunday. Admission 20/10zł (park and greenhouses), kids under 7 free.
Very much as advertised, this museum will appeal to avid hunters and horse lovers, though the latter may have some trouble with all the mounted trophies.
If the trophies are too much, you can skip the former Cantonists’ Barracks - built in 1826–1828 and full of hunting arms and taxidermied animals - and head straight to the Kubicki Stables, built 1825–1826 and home to an exhibit of horse-drawn carriages, saddles, harnesses and riding accessories, which are sure to delight the horse lovers among your group.
The Stables also host the Royal Weaving Workshopfeaturing 19th-century Jacquard looms, ornamental fabrics, old fabric patterns and more. Visiting time: 1hrQJ‑12, ul. Szwoleżerów 9. Admission 30/15zł; kids under 7 free; students under 26, 1zł. Fri free.
Łazienki has several cafes and restaurants, though most of them are very pricey. Head out of the main gates to Plac Unii Lubelskiej (H-12) for more casual options.
Belvedere: Located in the park’s New Orangery, this is one of Warsaw’s most prestigious restaurants and worth the money, but not for families after a day in the park.QI 12.
Być Może: This hip cafe/bistro bakes its own bread, offers all-day breakfast and daily lunch specials, and is perfect whether you’re craving coffee or wine.QH 12, ul. Bagatela 14.
DZiK (Dom Zabawy i Kultury): This old residence offers European cuisine and hosts a wide range of evening events, getting wild on weekends.QI‑13, ul. Belwederska 44 A.
Viet's Baguette: This deli offers 19 varieties of banh mi, known as a 'Vietnamese hoagie.' A great place to stop in before you head to the park. QG/H 12, ul. Puławska 7/9.
Klonn: Centrally located for perfect post-park bites, this stylish parkside resto is worth it for modern cuisine and excellent wine. QH-11, ul. Jazdów 1B.
Wilanów is picture-perfect in the fall sun
The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century 45ha palace and garden complex 10km south of the centre.
Essential visiting for anyone wishing to understand the former grandeur of the Polish capital, Wilanów is more than just a palace. As one of the few existing remnants of the era when Poland was a vast kingdom stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea, today it also represents the European splendour and sophistication that was lost and few today associate with Warsaw. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings also represent the height of Polish Baroque and are collectively one of Poland’s greatest cultural treasures. If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend most of a day relaxing and taking in the sites here.
10km south of the centre, Wilanów is best reached by bus or taxi, though the latter costs 35-40zł and essentially takes the same amount of time: 25-35mins. All buses stop directly outside the palace gates at the ‘Wilanów’ stop. From Plac Zamkowy (F-4), Pl. Trzech Krzyży (H-8) or Łazienki Park (H-11) take buses 116 or 180. From Warszawa Centralna train station (E-8) take bus 519. For exact times and routes, check warsaw.jakdojade.pl
The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park developed over the centuries. The park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s. Comprising a two-level Baroque garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscape park and the so-called English-Chinese landscape park, recent revitalisation works and archaeological digs discovered several arctefats, including ceramics dating from the 12th century. Until Oct. 11, 9:0018:00; until end of Oct, 9:00-16:00; Until Dec.31, 9:00-15:00 QP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow palac.pl. Admission 10/5zł, Thu free (0zł ticket is still required).
The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the palace’s interior, comes in two parts. The first is the upstairs Polish Portrait Gallery - comprising room after room of portraits of the rich and the powerful from the 16-19th century.
Next you’ll find yourself downstairs in the Wilanów Palace Residence, featuring residential rooms, suits of armour, Etruscan vases, magnificent frescoes and even a private chapel. Most impressive are the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife, while the wings house the apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace. Visit the Wilanów Palace website for info about current temporary exhibits and to buy tickets. Visiting time: 2hrs.QP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow palac.pl/. Open 10:00–16:00; Wed 10:00 18:00. Last entrance 1hr before closing. Admission (includes park admission) 35/28zł, kids 7 16 1zł, kids under 7 free; Thu free. U
An extraordinary piece of funerary art, befitting two of Poland’s most powerful, wealthy and influential families, this tomb in Wilanów Park was dedicated to Stanisław Kostka Potocki and his wife Aleksandra (nee Lubomirska) Potocka by their son Aleksander. Designed in 1834 by Henryk Marconi and built between 1834-1836 by Jakub Tatarkiewicz and Konstanty Hegl, the mausoleum is made entirely of sandstone. Consisting of a Neo-Gothic canopy with lions holding shields bearing the crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski families in each corner, on the sarcophagus itself are the figures of the deceased, and around the sides symbols of their virtues and interests are displayed.QO‑2, Wilanów Park.
A church has stood on this site since the 14th century, when the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here, followed by a wooden Gothic version in the 16th century that stood throughout Sobieski’s day. In 1772 the new brick Church of St. Anne was founded by Prince August Adam Czartoryski based on a design by Jan Kotelnicki. From 1857-1870, Aleksandra’s son August and his wife extended the church based on a Neo-Renaissance design by Henri Marconi, including adding the marvellous dome.
In the surrounding gardens you will find terracotta shrines marking the Stations of the Cross, while the crypt houses the tombs of the Potocki family. The church suffered damage during both world wars and was used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who looted and damaged it. The bells dating from 1723 and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people who hid them; today they are housed in the newly built Third Millennium Tower. Q O‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 18, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.pl. Open 08:00 17:00; Fri, Sat 08:00 12:00; Sun 14:00 18:00.
There’s also a natural lake found behind the Palace. Though the lake is still open, the chance to take a boat on the water is not (it's a seasonal activity that begins again in May). However, this is still wellworth a trip for the gorgeous scenery and photo opportunities. A trip here will reward you with a glimpse of Enrico Marconi’s strange, Gothic-inspired pump room, and an adventure to the island at the centre of the lake reveals a monument to the Polish soldier, Captain Ksawery Burski, who served in the army of the Duchy of Warsaw and gave his life at Wilanów fighting the Austrians at the Battle of Raszyn in 1809.QP‑3, ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16. Hours same as gardens.
‘Gritty’ and ‘boho’ are just two of the terms tossed around to describe Praga, Warsaw’s east riverside district
Once disregarded due to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks, today an urban revival makes Praga worth visiting – especially for those looking to get off the tourist trail and see more of the city’s artsy side. The current standard-bearer for cool, folks here prefer their fun improvised and their bars dark. Filled with murals and hip hangouts, you can easily spend a day checking out the vibes of this alternative district across from the Old Town.
The easiest way to get to Praga is to take the M2 Metro to ‘Dworzec Wileński’ (eastbound to ‘Trocka’), and you’ll be in the heart of the district. From Warszawa Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the river to the ‘Park Praski’ stop. If you’re in the Old Town simply walk down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarności and the ‘Stare Miasto’ stop, taking trams 4, 13, 20, 23 and 26 to ‘Park Praski.’
Located in the oldest surviving residential buildings on Warsaw’s right bank, this modern museum boasts interactive exhibits that tell the story of Praga: its people, history, industry, bazaars and more. The cellars include the Residents’ Stories Archive and two pre-war Jewish prayer rooms with original wall paintings, and there’s even an observation terrace. This is not one of the most well-known museums in Warsaw, but is certainly one of the most interesting. Well worth a visit.
Visiting time: 1.5-2hrs.QJ‑3, ul. Targowa 50/52, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 518 34 30, www.muzeumpragi.pl. Open 09:00 17:00; Thu 11:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł, permanent exhibit only 15/10zł, temporary exhibits 10/8zł; Thu free. U
2 ul. Ząbkowska
Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated and its artistic vibe more felt than on Ząbkowska. Originally lined with timber frame houses, a fire in 1868 led to their replacement with tall tenements, all but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street so hard that wholesale demolition was seriously considered, but somehow it endured and today many of the buildings have been restored and filled with lively galleries and bars. You’ll know you’ve arrived at Praga’s high street when you discover the explosion of murals and street art near ul. Targowa. Don't forget to take photos!QJ‑3, ul. Ząbkowska, MDworzec Wileński.
Locals will tell you that the best part of Praga isn’t the sightseeing, but the nightlife. The area’s main attraction is a vodka museum after all. You’ll find plenty of restaurants, cafes and bars in and around Centrum Praskie Koneser, along ul. Ząbkowska and ul. Okrzei. Here are some of the best hangouts in Praga:
3/4 Koneser Bar: Head straight to this bar hidden on the 3rd floor of the Polish Vodka Museum to try their delicious alcohol infusions and cocktails, and enjoy beautiful views.Qp.102
Setki Powodów: There are 100 reasons why you should swing by, but one of the main ones is its tantalising food menu (international cuisine) and a kicking live music roster!Qp.92
Figa z Makiem: This delightful wine and cheese bar offers a bevy of delicious snacks you can enjoy with a glass of wine that complements it all! Want a great gift? Their boxes of wine and cheese are perfect Qp.103.
Once the Koneser Vodka Factory (1897-2007), this large industrial site lay mostly derelict before getting a major revamp in recent years and becoming Centrum Praskie Koneser. Interesting from an architecture and urban renewal standpoint, the complex includes the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Fantastic Art, art galleries and dozens of restaurants, cafes, bars and shops! In the winter there are tons of winter attractions so make sure to check their website. QK‑2, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, www.koneser.eu TUE6
Set inside a former vodka factory, this multimedia museum is visited with a live tour guide or audio guide. The experience takes you from the origins of vodka to modern production, showing you plenty of paraphernalia and treating you to a tasting of this strong spirit. This is a must for anyone interested in the history of Poland's national drink (and for anyone who wants to try a sip). Entries are timed (PL and EN tours hourly) and it’s wise to look at all the tour options online and book in advance Visiting time: 1.5hrs.QK‑2, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 50, www.muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl. Open 12:00 20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 21:00; closed Mon. 70zł. 6
Praga is known for many things but locals know that one of its best attributes is its thrifting culture. The neighborhood is a hotbed of thrift stores, charity shops, and second-hand stores. Here’s our suggested starting route. Get off at the Kijowska tram stop, begin on the south end of Ul. Targowa and work your way north!
Jeila Ciucholand: With two stories and tons of men’s and women’s clothing, this is the perfect starting point. Find staple shirts, skirts, etc for around 10-20 Zł. Plus, some cool home items upstairs!QK-4, ul. Targowa 20B.
Nash Outlet: You know those stories where people find a designer piece in a thrift store and they just can't believe their luck? This is the place for that. This tiny store is packed and there are some real gems if you’re patient enough to lookQJ-4, Targowa 35
Kopalnia: There’s more to visit on Targowa, but let’s jump off for a bit and go to Kopalnia - this store is clothing, but also furniture, books, art, ceramics and so much more. It’s a little more expensive but so well-curated and the items are so nice that a visit is a must (say hi to the owner’s pet turtle while you’re there!).QK-2, ul. Białostocka 9.
5 Neon Museum
Yet another old industrial space-turned-cultural-hub is Soho Factory, the biggest draw of which is no doubt the illuminating (non-pun intended) Neon Museum. The passionate curators of this private museum have collected hundreds of Communist-era neon signs. One of Warsaw’s most photogenic places. Visiting time: 30mins.QM‑4, ul. Mińska 25, Soho Factory, Building 55, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 665 71 16 35, www.neonmuzeum.org. Open 12:00 18:00; Sun 11:00 17:00. Admission 18/15zł, kids under 6 admission free. U6
6 Saska Kępa - Ul. Francuska
One of the most desirable districts of Warsaw; with property prices staunchly high, the neighbourhood is home to the nouveau riche, the intelligentsia and much of the capital’s art community. Now in the shadow of the National Stadium, the sporting complex plays a major role in bringing visitors to the focal point of the area: ul. Francuska, which hosts trendy bars, cafes, restaurants and mix of boutique and old-school shops - Saska Kępa is as close as Warsaw gets to the ‘Little Village’ areas of London or
Paris or Greenwich Village in NYC.
As such, it’s a great place to wander around, people watch, take in cafe culture on Francuska, or marvel at the architecture, including majestic 19th century manor houses, superb examples of 1920s and ‘30s modernism, Cold War tower blocks and ultra-modern developments.QL‑6/7/8, ul. Francuska, MDworzec Wileński.
Agnieszka Osiecka (1936 - 1997) was a Polish poet and journalist, and the author of over 2,000 songs, many of which were turned into pop hits. She’s also known for a particularly grisly connection to the Swinging Sixties; her first marriage ended in tragedy when her husband, Wojciech Frykowski, became one of those slain by Charles Manson’s family of weirdos. The statue is located in Praga Południe aka Saska Kępa, and you’ll often find people lying gifts, flowers and candles at her monument. To round out your visit check out Osiecka’s favourite café, Maska around the corner.QL‑7, ul. Francuska (corner of ul. Obrońców). MStadion Narodowy.
Across the river is one of Warsaw’s most attractive parks, with plenty of artificial hills, waterfalls, lakes and flowerbeds filling the 55 hectare site. Originally founded in 1905, it first went under the name of Paderewski Park up until 1945. Several points of interest including a monument commemorating allied pilots killed when their B24 bomber was shot down in 1944 while trying to supply insurgents fighting in the Warsaw Uprising. Only seven crew members survived. Now, it's the best space for some picnics and waterfall viewing. There's plenty to see all over the park.QL‑5/6, Al. Zieleniecka, MStadion Narodowy.
Opened January, 2012, PGE Narodowy can hold 58,000 fans. The construction was built using hundreds of 45m pillars driven into the ground to stabilise the 25m of war rubble the stadium sits atop Priced at 1.2 billion PLN, history buffs will note the Socialist era ‘Relay’ statue at the entrance has been preserved in a nod to the site’s heritage – it was here that Stadion Dziesięciolecia (10th Anniversary Stadium) stood, built in the 1950s to mark the anniversary of the end of WWII. Today, this is an exceptional place to watch football or megaconcerts. All tour info on their website. Most tours cost 35/25zł.QK‑6, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 22 295 95 95, www. pgenarodowy.pl
Warsaw’s combination of these three is what makes it so exciting. Whether you’re an art lover, amateur historian, or tracing your roots, Warsaw’s heady brew of imperial grandeur, prewar glamour, 20th century tragedy, socialist austerity and present-day dynamism makes it unique in Europe and offers much to the visitor. Use this chapter of the guide to discover the capital’s art spaces and current exhibitions, find out about museums ranging from niche to national, and learn about sites related to some of the most important events in Warsaw’s modern history.
Warsaw is the centre of Poland’s contemporary art scene and home to countless pieces of priceless art. While Kraków’s collections skew more historical, Warsaw boasts a great variety of exhibits showcasing younger artists as well as the nation’s masters. When it comes to art tourism, temporary exhibits are often as or more important than permanent collections, so check the current exhibitions on p.68.
Located in a beautifully-restored palace, this museum uses incredible interactive multimedia displays to illustrate the life of Poland’s most famous composer, without any details missing! QSee p.52
A fantastically unique museum that has recreated the difficulty and absurdity of everyday life during the years of Poland's communist rule.QSee p.71.
A spectacle of light, color, and sound, this museum is a must-visit that uses modern technology to take visitors on a journey that awakens the senses. QSee p.70.
What about art in public spaces? Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with Polish print advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality. With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would have a penchant for street art as well. And they do. In Warsaw both graffiti art and large-scale murals are a common sight, with the city and private businesses even inviting international artists to do installations. You’ll find a particularly high volume of murals on buildings in Praga, Wola and around the City Centre, where the urban landscape is changing most rapidly. Although it’s a dynamic situation, as many murals are installed on buildings that later become designated for demolition, at WIYP we keep a close eye on murals and urban art, marking major works on all of our maps; just look for the spray can icon . Not only that, but we’ve meticulously put it all online with exact GPS coordinates, so that your smartphone can do the work of leading you directly to Warsaw’s alternative artistic visions.
The history of Warsaw is fantastically told in this revamped museum based in eleven historic tenement houses. An Old Town must-see for everyone.QSee p.43
A impressive, beautiful museum with over 10,000 artefacts dating back to the Middle Ages, and tons of temporary and permanent exhibits.QSee p.73.
Poland's first-ever vodka museum is a captivating journey through the more than 500year history of Poland's cherished national drink. Independently founded by the owners of beloved restaurant, Elixir by Dom Wódki.QSee p.73.
Showcasing thousands of items dating back to the Middle Ages, the Warsaw Archdiocese Museum is a must.
It’s not uncommon for some temporary exhibits to be major events, even overshadowing the permanent collections of local museums. Of the literal hundreds of art events across Warsaw, here are a few picks for the coming months. For more, as well as other events in the capital, head to our website.
26.10
The highly popular melt museum has introduced a new permanent exhibit that highlights the connection between art and technology, specifically AI. The creators of the exhibition call it a “technoutopia meets cyberpunk vision of the future.” The exhibit, Artificial Dreams takes visitors to unknown realms of the relationship between humans and artificial intelligence through an interactive, highly immersive experience that blends art, light, color, technology and sound to awaken your senses.
You’ll see gorgeous projections, stunning (and sometimes mind-bending) lighting effects, interactive installations and much more. Make sure to book your tickets in advance online because this one sells out fast! QG‑7, melt museum, Plac Powstańców 2a, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 534 125 556, 39 59zł, www.meltmuseum.com/en/exhibitions/
17.06 - 31.12
Beksinski - Collection of Anna and Piotr Dmochowski
One of the most outstanding Polish artists of the 20th Century, Zdzisław Beksinski (1929-2005) was an engineer, architect, painter, sculptor, photographer, draughtsman and computer graphics artist. And now, the focus of an exhibit held at the Archdiocese Museum, which is presenting 27 of Beksinski’s works from a private collection for the fourth time. Beksinski’s paintings are meant to be interpreted individually and often evoke extreme emotions: some like them, others are shocked by them, and some dislike them. Beksinski, who did not give his paintings titles, recognized that each viewer could interpret them for himself in any way he wanted.QG‑4, Warsaw Archdiocese Museum, ul. Dziekania 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 621 34 14, 35/25zł, www.maw.art.pl
04.06 - 31.12 » Chopin’s Letters | A special exhibition
Using Chopin’s own letters to family and friends, this exhibition gives a window into the composers closest surroundings in the mid-19th century, a time rife with political revolutions. This exhibition is semi-permanent, meaning that it's always held at the museum but the topics and focus of the exhibits change periodically.QH‑7, Fryderyk Chopin Museum, ul. Okólnik 1, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, Admission 30/20zł, www.muzeum.nifc.pl.
13.09 - 31.12 » Dalí Cybernetics
Discover the fascinating world of Salvador Dali through an innovative, one-of-a-kind experience that combines art, science, tech and immersive photography to bring you right into the twisted (quite literally) artistic genius of Dali. The new “Dali Cybernetics” exhibition at Art Box promises a wild, immersion into the digital universe of Dali using the latest technology such as large-format projections and artificial intelligence (AI). Dali was the first digital artist in history to use computers and thinking machines to push the boundaries of the reality around him, so this exhibition, which displays his art in a digitized, 360-degree way, is an ideal tribute. QC/D‑8, Art Box Experience, Fabryka Norblina, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 571 03 04 80, Admission 65/55zł, www.artboxexperience. com
01.07 - 31.12 » Kleks. Magic of the Cinema
Get an in-depth, inside look at the secrets behind film production with this exhibit at the Koneser center. Learn about Mr. Kleks’ Academy, directed by Maciej Kawulsk with original costumes, authentic set design and more, all on nearly 1,000 m2 of interactive space. Learn about the secrets of special effects and see how screenwriters and directors’ work looks like from the other side of the lens. For two hours, this tour of film production is enlightening for everyone - from children as young as 5 to adults, all who get to follow a guide! At the very end of the tour, you will meet the animatronic Professor Kleks and take part in a concept art workshop.QK‑2, Centrum Praskie Koneser, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, 75/69zł, www.kleksmagiakina.pl/warszawa/home waw
07.06 - 03.11 » Truth and Freedom. Father Jerzy Popiełuszko
This summer, the Archdiocese Museum is putting on a special event to honor the memory of Father Jerzy Popieluszko, a priest of the Warsaw Archdiocese and staunch opponent of communism who was known for criticising the government in the
1980s and was killed by Special Police in 1984. The event brings together documentary photographs, depicting the life of Father Jerzy and his activities, as well as the most important political events from the time of his activity. Also on display will be works of contemporary art on loan from many Polish museums and private collections.QG‑4, Warsaw Archdiocese Museum, ul. Dziekania 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 621 34 14, 25/20zł, www.maw. art.pl
17.05 - 16.12 » (post)JEWISH… Shtetl Opatów Through the Eyes of Mayer Kirshenblatt
This exhibition looks at what it was like growing up in an old Jewish town (shetl), using Mayer Kirshenblatt’s paintings, which depict his hometown of Opatów in his youth. In the wake of the Holocaust, these towns as they were had been largely destroyed, so this exhibiton gives a rare window into a lost culture. See what daily life in a shtetl was like compared to Opatów today as well as how the modern town copes with its memory and difficult history.QD‑4, POLIN Museum, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, 30/25 and 1 zł for students under 18, www.polin.pl
Warsaw boasts some superior museums, ranging from world-class attractions full of multimedia displays, to small institutions covering niche historical events. It’s more than we have space to cover here, but you’ll find them all listed and up-todate on our website. In this guide, some of the city’s most important museums are listed within the district tours of Sightseeing section, while the rest of the best are here. Descriptions focus on each museum’s permanent collection; for current temporary exhibits, see p.68
Born in Warsaw in 1867, local lass Maria Skłodowska would become better known to the world as Madame Marie Curie. Located in the renovated building she was born in, this charming museum pays homage to the life and work of the two-time Nobel Prize-winning physicist and chemist, whose many accomplishments include the discovery of the chemical element polonium (named after the country of her birth).
Comprising five rooms, visitors will learn about her family and early life, see a recreation of her Parisian laboratory, plus many personal effects, including her private letters and scientific instruments. Visiting time: 1hr.QF‑3, ul. Freta 16, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 80 92, www.mmsc.waw.pl. Open 12:00 18:00; Sun, Sat 11:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 11/6zł, Tue free. U
melt museum
This is an art experience like nothing you’ve ever seen! Melt museum offers a fully sensory experience involving lights, color, interactive exhibits, robot dogs, and so so so much more! The museum takes an audiovisual approach to creativity, using a blend of art and ultra-modern technology to offer vibrant imagery and sounds that are meant to awaken all of your senses.
The museum hosts popular temporary exhibitions and asks that you book your tickets in advance online (it’s a very popular experience). Once you do, you’ll step inside a mind-bending world of light, color, touch and sound that really highlights what technology can do and how it can affect our perception of our world. Bring your phone because the photos you’ll take will be some of your best!
Kuba Matyka and Kamila Staszczyszyn, known collectively as Melt Immersive, are the duo of filmmakers and directors behind the project. They have been recognized in the NewEurope100 and are known for their work at Atelier Des Lumieres in Paris, Ars Electronica in Linz and for collaborations with artists such as PRO8L3M, Hania Rani, Dawid Podsiadło, Sokol or Empire of the Sun, Bebe Rexha and Troye Sivan, and brands such as Disney, Netflix and Versace. Melt is something you can explain a million times over but until you go there, you won’t really get just how beautiful, artistic and enlivening the experience can be -- so book those tickets and thank us later!
Prices depend on the day of the week, so check out the website for details, but most prices range from 39zł to 56zł. Visiting time: 45-60mins. QG‑7, Plac Powstańców 2A, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 534 125 556, www.meltmuseum.com. Open 12:00 20:30; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00.
A small, charming museum fittingly located right in Warsaw’s Old Town. Showcasing over 150 highly-detailed historical dollhouses, plus various other minature settings, the museum’s two permanent exhibits - ‘The Bygone World of Dollhouses’ and ‘Religious Toys’ - both show unique handcrafted models, costumes and toys, while also demonstrating how tastes and fashions have changed over time. Another small branch nearby at ul. Krzywe Koło 2/4 (F-4) hosts temporary exhibits (currently toys from the PRL-era). Visiting time: 4560mins.QF‑4, ul. Podwale 15, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 797 72 30 29, www.muzeumdomkow.pl. Open 09:00 19:00. Tickets 42/30zł; kids under 1m tall, free. U
If Warsaw’s communist history isn’t vivid enough for you on a walk around the capital, immerse yourself in PRL (Polish People’s Republic) vibes at this private museum. Showing what everyday life was like for locals during the years of Poland’s communist rule, the nostalgic exhibits include a recreation of a typical PRL-era apartment, plus plenty of photos, artefacts and relics that demonstrate the difficulty and absurdity of those times. Bittersweet for older Poles and eye-opening for foreigners, this is really like stepping back in time for an interesting hour. Visiting time: 1hr.QG‑10, ul. Piękna 28/34 (corner of Plac Konstytucji and ul. Piękna), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 511 04 48 08, www.mzprl.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; Fri 12:00 20:00. Admission 28/18zł. Audioguides 10zł, free on Thu in EN, FR, IT & ESP.
After a long-awaited construction process, the new glistening, white building that’s home to the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw is finally opening in the center of the city Oct. 25. The newest location for this museum is a must-see, as it will offer a host of new, exciting exhibitions, starting with a dozen large-scale works by women—including historic works like Alina Szapocznikow’s Friendship and a large fiber work by internationally renowned artist Magdalena Abakanowicz (p.11). Taking up four storeys and 20,000 m2, the museum was designed by the New York City-based architecture studio Thomas Phifer and features exhibition spaces, educational areas for lectures and workshops, conservation and restoration workshops, a cinema, an auditorium, a café, and a museum shop. The Plac Defilad spot is now the primary home to the museum, which has had previous locations on the Vistula and on Pańska 3.QF 7/8, 103 Marszałkowska, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 596 40 10 www.artmuseum.pl/en. Open Oct. 25
Tragically overlooked by most visitors to Warsaw, this joy of a museum showcases all that’s best about Poland’s cultural heritage - colourful folk costumes, customs and traditions, tools and instruments, outsider art, handicrafts and more - all of it beautifully presented in a superb historical building. Interestingly, there’s also a ‘Korean Gallery’
with a traditional Korean ‘hanok’. One of the city’s most active cultural institutions, they host many events and worskhops, and you can expect multiple temporary exhibits at a time, Visiting time: 2-3hrs. QF‑6, ul. Kredytowa 1, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.ethnomuseum.pl. Open 11:00 19:00; Thu 11:00 17:00; Sat, Sun 12:00 18:00; closed Mon. Tickets 19/10zł, Thu free (Including the Museum for Children). U
Explore the history of Poland in this sleek, 7,300-square-meter museum that covers 1,000 years of Polish history through artefacts, movies, performances, guided tours and more! There are plenty of history museums throughout Warsaw, of course, but if you’re coming to the capital city and wondering where the full, extensive picture of Poland’s past is located, well then you’ve found it! This museum starts with an overview of the Jagiellonian Dynasties in the 14th and 15th centuries before moving on to the Polish Commonwealth in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. The partition of Poland, the reunification, the period of WWII and the decades of communism that followed. It really is quite the history!Qul. Gwardii 1, tel. (+48) 691 231 681, www.muzhp.pl/en. Open 10:00 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 19:00; closed Mon, Tue. 10/5zł, children under 7 free.
A unique experience where seeing impaired guides lead you into their sightless world. On the tour you’ll understand the challenges blind people face daily as you try to write with a Braille typewriter, use kitchen gadgets designed for the sightless, and solve simple puzzles while blindfolded. Next, enter a series of pitch-black rooms that force you to rely on your other senses. You’ll feel the contours of a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is, listen for cars before crossing the street, and the guide will even serve you a drink in the completely dark bar (bring some cash). Truly a fascinating experience. To visit, book online in advance. Tours in English can be arranged, but you must first email them via info@niewidzialna.pl with ‘TOUR IN ENGLISH’ as the subject line. Visiting time: 1hr.
QC‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A (Atlas Tower), MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.niewidzialna.pl.
Open 10:00 20:00. Admission 40/35zł; Sat, Sun 45/40zł. N
Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art
Completed in a Baroque style in 1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII and torn down by communist authorities, who built a military theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed and the 1970s saw the castle rebuilt to its original design. Today several large exhibition halls showcase a rotating collection of the very best contemporary art; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, by leading Polish and international artists. The castle also houses a very good bookshop, a fantastic cinema (U-Jazdowski Kino) and a top-notch restaurant/café, plus it’s surrounded by a lovely park. Visiting time: 2hrs.QI‑10, ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, www.u jazdowski.pl. Open 11:00 19:00; Thu 11:00 20:00; closed Mon. Admission 16/8zł to all exhibits; 2 exhibits 12/6zł; 1 exhibit 10/5zł; project room 5zł; students 1zł; Thu free. U
Vodka Museum
Poland’s first-ever vodka museum is a captivating journey through the more than 500-year history of Poland’s cherished national drink. With the world’s largest collection of over 10,000 exhibits, visitors delve into vodka’s origins, production processes, design, and even the traditional etiquette in which vodka is served and consumed. Independently founded by the passionate owners of the renowned restaurant Elixir by Dom Wódki (p.94), the museum seeks to shift the perception of Polish vodka from mere party indulgence to a finely-sipped and respected spirit.
Showcasing intriguing artifacts like a Napoleonic soldier’s vodka-filled canteen and 1920s/30s bottles that were sent to the U.S. during prohibition, the museum offers an enlightening and enjoyable experience, and paying a little extra gets you in on a vodka tasting session. Tickets cost 30zł to see the permanent exhibition, whilst an included vodka tasting session is available from 35zł all the way up to 199zł for their VIP Package! Prior reservation is essential for this not-to-be-missed attraction!QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 11 (entrance from ul. Canaletta), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 888 600 805, www. muzeumwodki.pl. Open 13:00 19:00; Fri, Sat 13:00 20:00; Sun 13:00 19:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing. Admission 30zł. X
Warsaw Archdiocese Museum
This Old Town museum showcases over 10,000 items dating from the Middle Ages up to today, and surprises with its wealth of secular art. Split into the Sacred and the Profane, the former includes liturgical objects, paintings and sculptures of Jesus, Mary and
the saints, plus personal items of Stefan Wyszyńskiformer Primate of Poland. The latter includes lots of furniture, clocks, sculpture and paintings, including works by famous artists such as Malczewski, Karny and even Beksiński. One highlight is entering the ‘Royal Corridor’ (aka the ‘Piekarski Corridor’) that formerly connected the Royal Castle with the Cathedral, and was built to ensure King Sigismund III Vasa’s safe passage between the two following an assassination attempt in 1620. Visiting time: 1hr. QG‑4, ul. Dziekania 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 621 34 14, www.maw.art.pl. Open 12:00 18:00; Sat, Sun 12:00 16:00; closed Mon. CATHEDRAL CRYPTS
Monday Saturday: 10:00 17:00 Sunday: 15.00 17.00. Admission ranges from 25/20zł to 38/28 zł depending on exhibits. U
Warsaw National Museum
Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre interwar building, this is Warsaw’s most comprehensive art museum, leading you from the ancient world through the middle ages up to the 19th century. Along the way you’ll see the some of the country’s most priceless works, including 15th century Dutch masters and Botticelli, plus Polish masters like Chełmoński, Matejko and Wyspiański. There’s also the Gallery of Polish Design and the Faras Gallerythe latter of which holds a rare exhibit of medieval Nubian art from the Nile River Valley, plus temporary exhibits.
Visiting time: 3hrs.QH‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw. art.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; Fri 10:00 20:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/10zł for permanent exhibits; kids and students up to 26; 1zł; Tue free. U
One of the leading galleries in Poland, with a focus on the contemporary. Located in a beautiful Renaissance-style palace in the centre of Warsaw, just across from the Saxon Garden, the setting itself is worth a visit. What makes Zachęta more of a gallery than museum is that there is no core permenant exhibition on display, but rather topnotch temporary exhibits showcasing the best in Polish and international contemporary art. As a result you get leading-edge art in an old European environment. Recommended for many reasons but mostly because it is definitely an enjoyable, fascinating and at times, surprising, visit. Visiting time 60-90mins.QF‑6, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www. zacheta.art.pl. Open 12:00 20:00; closed Mon. last entry at 7:30 pm. Admission 20/10zł, family ticket 25zł, students 2zł. Thu free. U6
When Nazi Germany invaded Poland in September 1939, Warsaw’s thriving Jewish population numbered approximately 350,000 - only New York City could boast a larger community.
Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare, Poland had been seen as a relative safe haven, and it attracted Jewish settlers forced into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war years, the Jewish population had made significant contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland.
As we know, Nazi occupation meant the complete dehumanisation and systematic destruction of Poland’s Jews, who were first forced into ghettos, where they faced violence, starvation and disease, and then deported to Nazi death camps where they were executed. The Warsaw Ghetto was the largest of WWII and occupied much of the City Centre, as you can see by its outline on the maps in this guide. At its height it imprisoned 460,000 Jews in an area of 3.4km2. After more than 254,000 Varsovian Jews were sent to their deaths at Treblinka in the summer of 1942, those remaining began building bunkers and smuggling weapons into the Ghetto in preparation for what would be the war’s largest act of Jewish resistance. Beginning on April 19, 1943, Jewish fighting units engaged German troops in guerilla
warfare within the walls of the Ghetto in a final, doomed act of bravery, defiance and protest against the world’s silence and inaction. When the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising ended 27 days later with the German command’s symbolic detonation of the Great Synagogue, 13,000 Jews had been killed, almost half of them perishing from the fire and smoke as the Nazis burned the Ghetto to the ground, building by building. Of the remaining 50,000 Jews, almost all of them were captured and perished at the Majdanek or Treblinka Nazi death camps.
Following WWII, much of Warsaw’s surviving Jewish population chose to emigrate to the U.S., the British mandate of Palestine (taking an active part in the creation of Israel) and elsewhere. Today Warsaw’s Jewish community is estimated at only about 2,000, but the city’s Jewish heritage remains an essential part of its identity, honoured today by innumerable monuments, memorials, museums and events, foremost among them the POLIN Museum, presenting the history of Polish Jews, and the annual Singer’s Warsaw Festival For a full list of Jewish tourism sites in Warsaw, visit our website
Anielewicz Bunker
Only 350m from POLIN, this small mound and memorial marks the site of the large bunker from which the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising was lead by the Jewish Combat Organisation (ŻOB). Located beneath the tenement at the wartime address of ul. Miła 18 (today Miła 2), the bunker was discovered and surrounded by the Nazis on May 8, 1943, with about 300 people hiding inside. Given the chance to surrender, half of the occupants - mostly civilians - gave themselves up, but the ŻOB insurrectionists chose to stay and fight. When the Nazis used gas to force them out, many of the ŻOB fighters chose suicide. 120 fighters died, including ŻOB commander Mordechai Anielewicz and his girlfriend Mira Fuchrer; only about 15 survived (many of whom perished later). The bodies of the dead were never exhumed and covered over with rubble from the surrounding tenements to make this mound after the war. Today two monuments can be found on/near the memorial with inscriptions commemorating their sacrifice.
QD‑3, ul. Miła 2, MDworzec Gdański.
Jewish Historical Institute
This amazing historical building that stood next to Warsaw’s Great Synagogue houses the Oneg Shabbat Archive, also known as the Ringelblum Archive - a secretly kept collection of documents, reports, essays, letters and other materials recording exactly what life was like in the Warsaw Ghetto, by those who were experiencing it, as it happened. As the Ghetto came under siege in 1943, the vast archive was secretly buried in three containers in three separate locations. Sadly, only the first two have been recovered, but they represent such extraordinary witness testimony that they were inscribed on UNESCO’s Memory of the World List
In the permanent exhibit you will see the original documents of the archive, the authentic containers and more. If you don’t have the time for POLIN, this is a great alternative. There are also temporary exhibits and an excellent bookshop. Visiting time: 90mins.
QE‑5, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl. Open 09:00 18:00; Tue 9:00 20:00; Fri 09:00 16:00; Sun 10:00 18:00; closed Sat. Last entrance 1h before closing. Admission 15/10zł. Mon free. Okopowa
A beautiful and poignant place to visit, this is Warsaw’s only active Jewish cemetery. Established in 1806 beyond the city trenches (‘okopy,’ where today’s Okopowa Street runs), the cemetery houses some 200,000 tombs and is the final resting place of many generations of Varsovian Jews, including Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto.QB‑5, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.cemetery.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00 17:00; Fri 10:00 15:00; closed Sat. Admission 20zł. N
One of the best museums in Poland, POLIN explains a millennium of Polish Jewish history and relations through multimedia displays that earned the 2016 European Museum of the Year award. Located within the former Warsaw Ghetto, the modern building itself is a stunning structure of copper and glass. Inside, each gallery addresses a different era in the history of the Jewish people in PL, from the 10th century to the tragic events of the 20th. While the Holocaust is described in detail, the permanent exhibit is primarily a celebration of 1,000 years of Jewish life in PL. Exhaustive and fascinating, it takes the better part of a day to explore. One combined ticket gets you into permanent and temporary exhibits. The museum is also home to a cafe and an excellent restaurant serving traditional Jewish cuisine (kosher dishes available). In the middle of a green public square, outside, visitors will also see several monuments, including a massive memorial the heroes of the Warsaw Ghetto. Plan ahead because the last entrance to the core exhibit is 2 hours before closing time. Visiting time: 3hrs.QD‑4, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; Sat 10:00 20:00; closed Tue. Admission with audio guide 45/35zł, Thu free. TU
August 1, 1944 . Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist hegemony, rose up in rebellion in what would be the largest uprising in the German occupied territories.
With German morale in ribbons, a retreat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army on the east bank of the Vistula, no time seemed better than the present. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime military movement a.k.a the ‘Armia Krajowa’ or AK) launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an independent government. What ensued was an epic 63-day struggle during which the Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler’s forces.
On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski, 17:00 signalled W-Hour (‘Wybuch’ standing for outbreak), the time when some 40,000 members of the Home Army would simultaneously attack key German positions. Warsaw at the time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any numerical supremacy the Poles had was offset by a lack of weaponry. Nonetheless the Germans were caught off guard, and the Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the Old Town, Prudential Tower and the post office. The first day cost the lives of 2,000 Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag fluttered once more over the capital.
Within days German reinforcements poured in, and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. It was to prove a mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, cultural life thrived. Better still, the first allied airdrops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under the command of Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks.
Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on the insurgents' side was an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance. Airdrops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate. All hopes rested on the Russians.
After six weeks of inaction Red Army Marshal Rokossovsky finally gave the go-ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the river. The operation was a debacle, with heavy casualties and no headway made. This single attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaw’s Old Town had become untenable, and a daring escape route was hatched through the sewers running under the city. The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken with glee. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were forced to capitulate, some 63 days after they had taken on the Reich.
Having deposited their weaponry, 11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city. ‘No stone can remain standing,’ warned Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings of importance to Polish culture were dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas were simply burned to the ground. Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around $54bn. In human terms Poland lost much more. With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very foundation a new post-war Poland could build on.
Opened in 2004, this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with interactive, multimedia displays, period artefacts, photos, video footage and plenty of sounds effects, this museum is guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram power station, the 2,000m2 space is split over several levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of the 1944 Uprising - provided they don’t make any wrong turns; it’s a common mistake, and, as such, an audioguide (10zł) is handy. You can also get a guided tour in Polish (150zł) or in another language (200zł). Set aside several hours for the experience. Visitors start by learning about life under Nazi rule, with immersive displays including a clandestine radio station and covert printing press. The mezzanine level features a film detailing the first month of battle, including the opportunity to clamber through a mock sewer. There is also an exact replica of the B24 Allied planes used to make supply drops over the besieged city. The final sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant display about the city’s destruction; take time to watch the black and white ‘before and after’ shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Nazis.
Near the exit check out the film City of Ruins, a silence-inducing 5min 3D aerial ‘film’ that uses old photos and new tech to recreate the desolation of ‘liberated’ Warsaw in March 1945. A viewing platform (open weather permitting) and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this high impact experience. Visiting time: 3hrs.QB‑7, ul. Grzybowska 79, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 539 79 05, www.1944.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; closed Tue. Admission 30/25zł (kids under 7 free), Mon free. Audioguides in 27 languages 10zł/person. U
Hey, it doesn’t all have to be exhausting museums and knee-lifts as you explore Poland’s largest city. Check out the local activities below if you’re looking for fun alternatives to traditional sightseeing, ready to try something new, or simply want some rest and relaxation.
Stacja Grawitacja
Smart Kids Planet is one of the best spots for kids and families in Poland! With 9 thematic zones and with over 50 engaging activities throughout, kids can play and learn as they do different tasks like building construction, shopping for food and fresh produce, learning about sports, and the magic of machinery and production lines, and much more! They'll develop cognitive function and cooperation skills all while having fun (plus there's a rest area for parents!)QD‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www.smartkidsplanet.pl. Open 9:00 20:00.
Gravity getting you down? Get the bounce back in your step at this huge trampoline park that also features 3D virtual reality gaming by Hologate, a ropes course, obstacle course, basketball and volleyball courts and even a climbing wall with routes for all ages and abilities. Put on anti-slip socks and join the fun. Children ages 3-6 must be accompanied by adults; older kids can be let loose while their parents hang out at the well-stocked cafe.
Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 13 06 66, www. stacjagrawitacja.pl. Open 10:00 22:00; Sun 10:00 21:00.
A strict break from the stuffiness of the Old Town, this fun, colourful museum is exciting and educational for all ages. Enter the Matrix, a mirror room, a vortex, the room of shadows, and an upsidedown room - each and every one out-of-this world! Pefect for groups and pairs -- go discover the extent to which the mind can be tricked by the eye (don't forget to whip out your phone for pics!).QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 21, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 501 80 80 06, www.swiatiluzji.pl. Open 09:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00. Admission 42/32zł.
Found inside Galeria Młociny in the northern district of Bielany, this modern entertainment centre is just 2 mins away from the final stop of the M1. Once you’re there, you have the choice of 18 bowling lanes, 9 billiards tables, 4 shuffleboard tables, and 2 electronic dart boads, plus a kitchen that dishes out sandwiches, beer, snacks and more!Call in advance to reserve.Qul. Zgrupowania AK Kampinos 15 (Galeria Młociny, 2nd floor), MMłociny, tel. (+48) 600 80 05 56, www.mkbowling.pl/start warszawa. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri 12:00 24:00; Sat 10:00 24:00; Sun 10:00 22:00.
The iconic Polish pianist’s works can be heard daily with Chopin concerts at 6:30 p.m. in the Dean’s Palace at the Archdiocese Museum in the Old Town. The recitals are performed by professional pianists and artists. Be sure to enjoy the splendor of the palace as you listen to the sweet and familiar sounds of Chopin’s music, all captured with beautiful acoustics and a grand concert piano! QG‑4, Warsaw Archdiocese Museum, ul. Dziekania 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 621 34 14, 75/65zł, www.chopinconcerts. pl. Every day 18:30.
This is one for nostalgia and fun-lovers alike! This interactive museum of video games is like a time machine back to the 80s and 90s, with tons of classic video games available to everyone, 120 slot machines and even the history of arcade games and their evolution over the years. Find arcade classics like Pac Man, Mario, Donkey Kong and much much more. Perfect for a break from the regular tourist attractions, and great for a birthday party or just for fun QAl. Jerozolimskie 200, tel. (+48) 573 999 815, www. warsawarcademuseum.com. Open 14:00 21:00. 60/40zł/1h.
Estell Clinic takes care of everything, from body shaping to dermatology.
By this point, you’re well aware of how jam-packed Warsaw is. From little cafes (p.86) to walking paths, to Old Town (p.38), park (p.56) and center city (p.28) sightseeing. But sometimes you just need to take a break from all the exploring and relax, and Warsaw is the place for that, too!
In fact, we think it’s better than many other cities in this department for a number of reasons. First, it’s much more affordable. The prices at most spas and beauty centers in Warsaw are very doable for the average traveller. But more importantly, we have variety here. Warsaw spas and beauty centers use different concepts to bring you a relaxing, fun experience that you cannot find anywhere else. Dive in, choose wisely, kick your feet up, and relax
Elektrownia Powiśle’s Beauty Hall is an innovative, one-of-a-kind concept that offers the comfort of holistic beauty concept on a larger scale - The only such place in both Warsaw and Poland at large. Across 1,500 sqm of space, you’ll find 7 beauty and wellness centers with over 350 services available for both women and men. The offer ranges from the more straightforward services, such as hair or nail salons, to natural cosmetics stores and further to those offering more complex treatments, such as aesthetic medicine. The Beauty Hall is, indeed, a varied and holistic temple of wellness, aimed at
relaxing and restoring your body to its full potential. There is even a concierge who can assist guests in planning their visit, choosing adequate treatments, as well as making a reservation in the appropriate salon!QH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.beautyhall.pl Open 08:00 20:00; Sun 10:00 19:00.
What do you get when you combine a love of fine wines and beers, a passion for relaxation, and a beautiful spot for health and well-being? Of course the answer is the Beer and Wine Spa!
Here you can enjoy high-quality spa treatments like goat milk baths, massages and more, along with some of the tastiest beverages you can find in the city. In fact, the two are so intertwined, that you can even get facial treatments from the beer and grape cosmetics line which give your skin deep rejuvination. Or book a whole beer/wine spa package and sip a glass of bubbly while you enjoy top-notch spa treatments.
This is really a true symbol of comfort and relaxation, with the concept based on the idea that good feelings and good well-being go hand-in-hand. Plus, you can enjoy 20% off all treatments during a current promotion! Perfect for couples, singles, friend groups and more.QG 7, plac Powstańców Warszawy 2a, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 662 380 090, www. beerandwinespa.pl. Open 12:00 20:00.
When it comes to the top of the top, the best beauty clinics around, Estell is the one you want. This spot offers a multitude of different beauty options, from body shaping and dermatology, to even dental prosthetics. This is where you come for some topnotch beauty treatments.
It's worth taking a look at their list of offerings because it's far beyond anything we could describe here. Some of their most popular offers are skin consultations, body shaping, a whole host of dentistry offerings, eye area treatments and more. Suffering from migranes? They can help. Tired of loose skin from weight loss? Here too. Wrinkles, scar removal, dry facial skin... The list goes on (and on and on) It's safe to say that whatever beauty treatment you're looking for, whatever little tweak you want to make, can be found here at Estell. These are worldclass services at unbeatable prices. The goal here is to make the patient feel comfortable and safe, and technicians use top-notch modern technology to treat anything you could want to treat (beauty-wise) with certified, high-quality materials. If you want a little beautification amid your stay in Warsaw, this is undoubtedly the place for it. Two other locations at Okopowa 58/72 and ul. Burakowska 14, QF‑5, ul. Bielańska 2. MRateusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 431 36 66, www.estell.pl. Open 9:00 21:00; Sat 9:00 18:00.
While Warsaw has plenty of wonders, not every cultural site is going to be engaging for young visitors. The first step to having a successful family vacation is probably to just accept that what you and your kids want to do are not going to be one and the same. That said, there’s common ground to be found in some of Warsaw’s most popular attractions.
Wandering the Old Town (p.38) or Łazienki (p.56) will likely please everyone, as will a walk along the Vistula Boulevards (p.53) - a great outing with plenty of diversions, most obvious of which is the stimulating and educational Copernicus Science Centre (p.54) and Multimedia Fountain Park further north. You’ll also find playgrounds along the river, and in the high season you can take a ferry to the wild side of Wisła and enjoy one of the city’s wild beaches
Although it may sound more like punishment, kids really respond to the interactive exhibits of the highly modern Warsaw Rising Museum (p.77), which features areas designed specifically for young visitors. Some of Warsaw’s more niche museums like the National Ethnographic Museum, Museum of Dollhouses (p.71) and Photoplasticon are also good choices for families. Of course, Warsaw has plenty of action-packed indoor attractions, too so don’t miss the rainy day recommendations on the previous pages.
Hidden in a darkened pre-war tenement near the train station, a visit here really is a trip back in time. A popular form of entertainment in the pre-cinema era, a ‘photoplasticon’ is basically a 3D peep show (no, not the saucy kind) where visitors sit in front of a viewing station to see vivid photos as they slowly rotate by. Although photoplasticons were quickly made obsolete by moving pictures, this one, which has been located here since 1905, somehow stayed open, surviving the war and even serving as a meeting point for intellectuals during the communist era.
Check online to see what’s loaded into the machine (does it matter?) from their collection of over 7,000 stereoscopic images of times, places and people long gone. This is truly a unique visit you won't get elsewhere. Visiting time: 20mins.QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 51, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 60 78, www.fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; closed Tue. Admission 10/6zł; Thu free.
Warsaw Zoo
Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares and has 13,000 animals, across 500 species. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; he helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the zoo. Come for the history, stay for the cool animals and lovely environment!QH‑3, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Open 09:00 18:00 on weekdays and 9:00 19:00 on weekends. Admission 35/30 zł.
Smart Kids Planet
Young families visiting Warsaw need not worry about wholesome and constructive fun for the kids!
Head along to Fabryka Norblina (p.31) and you will find Smart Kids Planet - the first edutainment centre in Poland, that is, a recreational format that bridges the gap between playrooms and science centres. And it does so seamlessly, divided into 9 thematic zones and with over 50 engaging activities throughout, young minds can journey through many different worlds - building construction, food and fresh produce, sports, the magic of machinery and production lines, and right out into the cosmos with their very own designs coming to life before their eyes! Made for children aged from 0-10, this is certainly not a traditional ‘educational’ environment, and that is by no means a bad thing. Smart Kids Planet is also smart for parents too, with 3 rest zones for Mums and Dads, a cafe with a kids menu, and the Smart Kids Store (p.110) where different products allow for the educational fun to be continued at home! For children aged 0-10 QD‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www.smartkidsplanet.pl. Open 09:00 20:00. U
Warsaw Arcade Museum
This is one for nostalgia and fun-lovers alike! This interactive museum of video games is like a time machine back to the 80s and 90s, with tons of classic video games available to everyone, 120 slot machines and even the history of arcade games and their evolution over the years. Find arcade classics like Pac Man, Mario, Donkey Kong and much much more. Perfect for a break from the regular tourist attractions, and great for a birthday party, corporate meeting or event, the Warsaw Arcade museum is a must-visit! QAl. Jerozolimskie 200, tel. (+48) 573 999 815, www.warsawarcademuseum.com/. Open 14:00 21:00. 60/40zł/1h.
Nowhere is Warsaw’s vibrancy and diversity more apparent than in its progressive culinary scene. What follows are some of the most noteworthy dining establishments in the capital, divided into basic categories with the type of cuisine listed under the venue name; for more options visit our website. In terms of tipping, 10% is standard (easy math). Smacznego!
Banjaluka
utensils Balkan
Head here for monstrous portions of the best Balkan food in town. This central spot, open for nearly 22 years is described by the owners as a “lively, tough grandmother with tattoos, good style and a smile” --- basically that means the restaurant will welcome you in with open arms, feed you and make sure you feel completely at home.
Choose from all kinds of amazing Balkan food like juicy, well-seasoned meats, stuffed peppers with cheese, and roastbeef u rakija sljivovici (aka filled with plum rakija).
And don’t just come here for the food -- the experience itself is great, too! Especially because they have live music, entertainment, a garden and more. This is the spot to post up in the summer months.
QF‑7, ul. Szkolna 2/4, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 60, www.banjaluka.pl
Open 16:00 00:00; Mon 16:00 23:00; Fri 16:00 01:00; Sat 12:00 01:00; Sun 12:00 22:00. €€€. TE6
L’Osteria
utensils Italian
This chic little bistro suits the vibe of the surrounding Centrum Paskie Koneser complex, serving up traditional Italian food with style. And we have to say, it is good. This food has highquality ingredients made in the traditional Italian way (no corner-cutting here!). Try some pizza with hand-made dough and a variety of authentic Italian ingredients, from prosciutto funghi to quattro formaggi, as well as other beloved favorites (BBQ chicken, anyone?) If you’re more in a pasta mood, L’Osteria offers up some delicious dishes, combining fresh ingredients like garlic, basil, spinach, cream and more (including plenty of dishes for cheese-lovers). If, after a day of shopping and pampering at Centrum Praskie Koneser, you are ready to eat real, authentic Italian food, this is the place you should park yourself - preferably with a glass of wine or some fresh-brewed coffee.
QK‑2, Plac Konesera 10A, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 166 10 88, www.losteria.net/pl.
Open 11:00 23:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 24:00; Sun 10:00 21:00. €€€. XTUE6
For some the direction of the day depends on the ability to eat a good breakfast, so we’ve highlighted some of our favourite places in Warsaw that specialise in śniadania (the Polish word for breakfast). Whether you’re an early bird or a late riser, get a good first feed in the places listed here!
A great little place that makes you feel like you’re in a small-town setting. Serving all-day-breakfasts, from bagels with lox, cream cheese and eggs, to soups and sandwiches (grilled veggie, pesto, ham, tuna and more), a proper Cappuccino or Americano along with it only costs you an extra 8zł. They also have typical "American" breakfasts like pancakes, as well as Turkish eggs, hummus and more. Furthermore, 0.5l wine is 23zł from 16:00-21:00 daily, and Prosecco only 8zł! If you're feeling non-alc, don't miss their delicious smoothies! Also at Żurawia 6/12 (G-8), ul. Zwycięzców 32 in Saska Kępa (M-8) which has a lovely little spot for sitting outdoors and taking in the sun,, and ul. Puławska 24 in Mokotów (H-13).QG‑8, ul. Zgoda 3, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 28 55 22, www. bulkeprzezbibulke.pl. Open 07:30 23:00; Sat 08:00 23:00; Sun 08:00 22:00. To6
A mighty fine French-style cafe, bakery and cake shop which neatly manages to walk the difficult line of being neither too trendy nor too old-fashioned, attracting a nice mix of customers as a result. The beautiful interior is all delicate whites and pale greys and the attention to every detail is immediately noticeable. Enjoy an all-day breakfast (Polish & French style), soups, entrees, freshly made sandwiches and light and colourful salads while marvelling at the daily selection of cakes and sweets. As a special winter offer, they have delicious Christmas gingerbread and gift sets Whatever you decide to order (it’s not easy), it all comes simply, yet perfectly, presented, served by staff who genuinely seem be as pleased as their customers to be there.QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 41, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 531 43 13 00. Open 09:00 21:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 22:00. €€. o6
Located within the elegant Crowne Plaza Hotel, Nova Wola encourages a wholesome start to your day in Warsaw, with a fresh and organic breakfast selection as part of its impressive modern Polish menu offer (p.94). Whether you opt for the breakfast buffet or à la carte, you’ll find light and healthy options crafted from local and seasonal ingredients. The breakfast menu includes favorites like omelettes with customizable add-ins, shakshouka, brioche with smoked salmon, avocado and fried egg, and oatmeal with coconut milk. For those seeking unique choices, Nova Wola also offers baked sweet potatoes with yogurt, berries, and granola, as well as hummus with roasted vegetables, avocado and egg. Additionally, the restaurant stands out by offering entire pots of coffee, ensuring you have ample caffeine to energize yourself for he day ahead.QC‑8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 377 38 01, www.novawola.com. Open 06:30 10:30; Sat, Sun 06:30 11:00. €€€€. TU
A delightful addition to Warsaw’s coffee scene, Panattoni Cafe at Krochmalna 58 is the perfect combination of aromatic coffee, mouthwatering dishes, and phenomenal desserts. While stylish and modern, the interior design and layout of this space has maintained a cozy atmosphere, inviting you and your entourage to come in, relax, and indulge in the menu on offer. Your day in Warsaw should begin with a cup of Panattoni’s finest, whether it’s a classic black or something milk-based. As any hardcore coffee enthusiast would expect, each and everyone is expertly prepared to perfection and ready to drink and/or instagram! Your coffee can also be indulged with a side of delectable desserts, of which you can find a fresh batch on display and are sure to satisfy your sweet tooth. QC‑7, ul. Krochmalna 58 (Browary Warszawskie), MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 663 33 77 88, www. panattonicafe.com. Open 08:30 20:30. €€. TU6
One of our favourites, The Cool Cat is part Asianfusion bistro, part cocktail dive bar, all Varsovian awesome. If you need evidence that this laidback cult hangout has hipness to spare, they sells jars of their own vegan mayo and kimchi. In terms of dining in, The Cool Cat specialises in ramen (of course) and serves an iconic bao donut dessert topped with matcha ice cream and caramel miso. They also have weekday lunch specials for only 36zł (12:00-16:00), exceptional coffee, wacky cocktails, craft beer and natural wines. Honestly, there’s no reason not to
be here, especially since the decor (neon, hip and fun) lends itself to a good night out, whether you're treating yourself or looking for a spot to grab some tasty breakfast with friends, this is the place to be.. 2nd location at ul. Marszałkowska 8 (H-12).QI‑7, ul. Solec 38, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 574 81 18 16. Open 10:00 22:00; Fri 10:00 23:00; Sat 09:00 22:00; Sun 09:00 21:00. €€. T6
SAM Powiśle
At this stellar bakery/bistro it all starts with their own artisanal bread, which forms the basis for many of their breakfast options (served all day), including stacked bagels, sandwiches, French toast and more. But SAM offers a wide menu of delicious, diverse and healthy dishes, including many vegetarian/vegan and gluten-free options, plus vitamin-rich juice cocktails. Taking their healthy philosophy further, everything they offer is all natural and made from scratch. Also at ul. Twarda 4 (Plac Grzybowski, E-7).
QH‑6, ul. Lipowa 7A, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 600 80 60 84, www.sam.info.pl. Open 08:00 22:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 22:00. €€. TU6
Bounce your way on over to some tasty food as you enjoy one of Warsaw’s best activity parks! Located right in the oh-so-popular Stacja Grawitacja trampoline (and more) center is this charming cafe, which serves everything from mozzarella and pesto sandwiches, to egg breakfasts, gnocchi meals and an array of smoothies! It’s the perfect break after a fun day (and a workout!) jumping around the activity center, which includes a trampoline park, a climbing wall, a ropes course, and way more!Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 13 06 66, www. stacjagrawitacja.pl/warszawa/bistro/menu stacja caffe Open 10:00 22:00; Sun 10:00 21:00.
For authentic bites bursting with flavor, PRIMITIVO (p.92) is always a top option.
Sometimes you just need a casual and convenient place to relax, enjoy good food, vibes and hospitality. The following venues deliver in that regard. While our listed opening hours seem self-explanatory, be aware that some venues close their doors if business is slow, while others stay open after the kitchen has closed. In such cases, the hours we list are for the kitchen.
utensils International
Bite into some of the juiciest seasoned steak you can find in the capital city (T-bone, ribeye, roast beef, tomahawk and French entrecote). Or try out ribs, BBQ wings, beef tartare, chicken, Polish dishes, juicy burgers and pasta Fresca and pizza - both with imported Italian ingredients! 13 Rogów really puts the emphasis on food at their beloved Nowy Świat restaurant. Just follow the red neon sign inside for some (or all) of the above, along with an array of delicious wines, liquors and craft beers. Perfect for groups of friends to meet, chat and relax. This is also a great spot to spend the evening because they have live music every Thur and Fri!QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 32, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 664 700 510.
Open 12:00 24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 02:00. €€€. Uo6
utensils Category of Cuisine
E Live music
utensils International
Some of the best food in the city, with tons of offerings that range from steaks to burgers to pasta. This cozy restaurant, located in the heart of Warsaw, is a must-visit on your travels. If you come midday, try the three-course lunch deal and sample some amazing coffees from a local roastery. If you come in the afternoon/evening, don’t miss the delectable Mega Strawberry Margarita (the strawberry taste is so flavorful) and the Pornstar cocktails (don’t be afraid of the name -- these are some of the best cocktails in the city). Also, don’t skip on their breakfasts or array of lunch and dinner offerings: burgers, tapas, steak, seafood, coffee and more.QF 8, ul. Chmielna 26, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 575 737 760, www.aioli.com.pl
Open 9:00 24:00; Fri, Sat 9:00 01:00. €€€. Xo6
C-1 Map Coordinate N Credit cards not accepted
M Metro o Year-round garden
T Child-friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
X Smoking room available
6 Animal friendly
€ most mains under 35zł
€€ most mains 35–55zł
€€€ most mains 55–80zł
€€€€ most mains 80–120zł
€€€€€ most mains over 120zł
AïOLI Cantine
utensils International
Converting a communist-era commercial space into an appealing gastro destination is no easy feat, but Aioli’s colourful urban canteen aesthetic turns the trick with aplomb, resulting in a delightful, unique atmosphere (with great food to boot!). The exciting, modern menu extends from light tapas and seafood to pasta and more. This place absolutely buzzes, aided by breakfast and lunch specials, affordable prices and a kitchen that stays open late for their urbanite clientele, who help this trendsetting spot blur the lines between bar, bistro and brunch spot. Bonus points for them because it’s all pet-friendly! 2nd location at ul. Chmielna 26 (F-8).QF‑7, ul. Świętokrzyska 18, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 518 81 93 02, www.aioli cantine.com. Open 09:00 24:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 01:00. €€€. TUo6
Beef n’ Pepper
utensils Steak
Hidden away in a small alleyway alongside the famous Roma Theatre, the exterior may look like you’re about to enter a 1970’s Texas shopping mall, but inside it’s a smart, urban steakhouse and bar. The quality of the cuts here is excellent (28 days wet-aged or 30 days dry-aged) and the fact that they use the finest local meats means the prices are surprisingly reasonable. Seafood and Louisiana Chicken Wings struggle for a look-in as beef rules. In addition to a fine wine list, the slick bar has a brilliant selection of whiskies and bourbons, and there’s live music every Tuesday from 19:00. Plus, there’s a summer garden through September! Kitchen closes one hour before closing time.QF‑9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 785 02 50 25, www.beefandpepper.pl. Open 12:00 24:00. €€€€. TUE6
Bierhalle
utensils International
Inspired by the brewhouses of Bavaria, Bierhalle is an original concept that combines original beer produced on-site with mouthwatering cuisine brought to the table by talented and traditionallyfrocked waitstaff. A popular franchise all over Poland, guests will get to try several flavours of delicious ale (served in enormous steins), and see also see the brewing process in action. The menu offers a variety of dishes from Poland, from homemade dumplings to oven-baked pork knuckle, grilled salmon, chicken salads and much, much more. Also at Galeria Północna.QC‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 601 67 79 62, www. bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 20:00. €€€. TUo
utensils Italian
Located a short distance away from the Old Town Square (p.43), Ciao Napoli succeeds in bringing a little piece of Naples to the centre of Warsaw. Offering a selection of antipasti, salads, piadina, panuozzo and desserts, it’s the Neapolitan pizzas, with their fantastic thin and crispy dough, which really distinguish this small family-run franchise. The friendly atmosphere and cosiness of the restaurant also makes an impact, despite its popularity. That being said, you will leave satisfied, especially when you realise how reasonably priced the whole experience is! Their second location at ul. Piwna 40/42 (F-4) has weekday lunch specials from 12:0016:00.QF‑4, ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 508 69 43 52, www.ciaonapoli.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. €€. To6
Clash Restaurant & Bar at NYX Hotel Warsaw utensils International
Making a hotel more than just a place for its sleepover guests, NYX has created an inviting firstfloor space where urban art and culture collide, and anyone can drop in. With an open floor plan that features traditional dining areas flowing into more
casual zones with sofas and armchairs, The Clash’s unique visual aesthetic includes retro and modern furnishings, elegant place settings and gold cutlery, plus edgy photography and street art installations. Dine on a unique fusion of Polish-Israeli cuisine, order a signature cocktail, or challenge their bar staff to make you a custom drink. Take advantage of Happy Hour specials from 17:00-19:00. QD/E‑8, ul. Chmielna 71, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 346 29 00, www.leonardo hotels.com/nyx hotel warsaw. Open 14:30 23:00. €€€.
TUE6
utensils Polish
Workers of the world unite around a large choice of well-presented Socialist Bloc cuisine. Deriving its name from a former meeting place for members of the early communist movement, legend has it that even Lenin paid this place a visit in 1909. The interior is based on the style favoured by the 1950’s -1960’s party elite, and the walls are bedecked with memorabilia of the era. Somehow the owners have managed to carefully side swerve tackiness and the whole experience has a lovely, faded and nostalgic glam to it. Immensely popular with locals and tourists alike (including Bruce Willis, Lennox Lewis and the Real Madrid football squad), 2012 saw ‘The Hog’ voted one of the 25 best and most interesting restaurants in the world by the Spanish Trade Leaders’ Club. Keep their lunch menu in mind, on offer from Mon to Fri, 12:00-16:00. The restaurant closes at 23:00 daily, except for Sundays when it closes at 22:00. QC‑7, ul. Żelazna 68, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 850 31 44, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 22:00. €€€. TUo
utensils Polish
You can’t visit the capital of Poland without trying some traditional Polish food, right? Gościniec has just that - hearty soups, plump dumplings, potato pancakes and various cutlets - all prepared ‘as they should be’ and at very reasonable prices. You can’t go wrong with pierogi, but we’d personally recommend the pork chops or cabbage rolls stuffed with meat (known locally as gołąbki: go-womp-ki). The drinks on offer are quite funky (cold/hot options), and it’s all served up by friendly staff wearing folk attire. It may feel very kitsch inside, but the food hits the mark and the portions are immense. Additional locations at ul. Nowy Świat 43 (G-7), and deep in the Old Town at ul. Podwale 19 and ul. Piwna 14 (F-4).QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 29, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 273 69 36, www.gosciniec.waw.pl. Open 11:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00 23:30. €€. To6
Gospoda pod Zygmuntem
utensils Polish
With locations on the happening Nowy Świat street and another near the Old Town Square, this veteran Polish restaurant is as simple and traditional as it gets. A good option for tourists, families and anyone looking for their first foray into Polish cuisine, the modestly-priced, bilingual menu includes photos of almost every dish. There is a lot to choice, from classics like pierogi (15 types), potato pancakes with goulash and mushroom soup served in a bread bowl, to old school staples that have dropped off most modern menus like tripe soup and chicken livers with fried onions and baked apples. With a tidy, colourful interior and fast service, the experience is easy, accessible and satisfying. Also at ul.Świętojańska
15Qul. Nowy Świat 41, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 428 39 43, www.gospoda.waw.pl. Open 11:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00 23:00. €€. To6
Namaste India
utensils Indian
What began as a modest Indian-owned grocery store almost two decades ago has developed into multiple full-service restaurants. This - the expanded original location - remains the consensus best Indian food in the capital, just ask anyone who lives here. The prices are set so low you can’t help but wonder what’s the catch - there isn’t one; we’ve tried the entire menu and it’s all delicious. Consider ringing ahead for takeaway because waiting times can be torture and ask about booking their private room for parties and meetings.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. Open 11:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 22:00. €€. T
Nar Restaurant NEW utensils Turkish
Nar Restaurant brings authentic Turkish food straight from the sunny, stunning land of Mardin and offers everything you could want, from breakfast to lunch and dinner! The bold flavors really stand out here: light and flavorful mezze dishes with yogurt and marinated eggplant, juicy bites of grilled lamb and vegetables, perfectly seasoned slices of grilled beef.... The list goes on! Lunches are served here from Monday through Friday between 12:00 and 16:00, and the weekend breakfasts (between 10:00 and 14:00) are amazing. Additionally, there are special events on Saturday nights from 19:30, when you can enjoy a special Raki menu alongside some live music which will transport you straight to Turkey.QF‑9, ul. Żurawia 47/49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 451 012 922, www.narrestaurant.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Sat 10:00 23:00; Sun 10:00 22:00. €€€. o6
PierOgarnia
utensils Polish
Located right in the heart of Warsaw, these are authentic, handmade pierogi done really well. You’ll find all the classic flavors here, from cheese and potato, to mushroom and cabbage, to meat and of course, spinach. The thing that sets this place apart is the flavor and the locally sourced ingredients. If you’re looking for good, authentic pierogi on your adventures around the city, this is the place to go. QF‑8, ul. Złota 11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 668 01 69 80. Open 12:00–20:00. €€. To6
PRIMITIVO Kuchnia i Wino
utensils Italian
An original take on Mediterranean cuisine, with a focus on simplicity that lets the high quality ingredients and expert preparation shine. Plus, the biggest Primitivo wine collection means you can experience the top-shelf wine. The dishes themselves as well as many ingredients come from the Mediterranean basin and other ingredients are locally sourced. Chefs focus on 3-ingredient dishes that allow them to highlight the expert preparation and quality food. The restaurant design itself is also a huge attraction. With muted, earthy tones and wood, stone, ceramic and glass elements in the design,
Primitivo is reminiscent not only of the earth and the natural world, but also of some of the most soughtafter dining experiences around the globe. QD‑7, ul. Waliców 13, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 606 444 462, www.primitivo.com.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 22:00. €€€. TUo6
utensils International
A fantastic neighbor of Warsaw’s Polish Vodka Museum, Setki Powodów (Hundreds of Reasons) guarantees live music and an impressive food menu, with plenty of things to nosh on as you listen and enjoy a drink. Setki Powodów offers international cuisine in a comfy street-food style with amazing burgers, pastrami sandwiches and seafood. Relax as you taste delectable dishes, listen to live music, and take in surroundings reminiscent of the nearby Neon Museum (this place is well-lit and beautiful with artistic neon lighting). Consume as you wish, and enjoy the small-but-punchy live music stage in the corner. The name means “hundreds of reasons” but there are thousands of reasons to come here.QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 54, www. setkipowodow.pl. Open Tue, Wed 12:00 22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00; Sun 12:00 21:00; closed Mon. €€. UE
As the capital of a country that traditionally feasts on meat, and smears lard on bread as a snack, you might be surprised to learn that in 2022 National Geographic named Warsaw the top city for vegans in the world.
Bliski Wschód Vege Street Food & Cocktail
If you're one to think flavor only comes from dishes with meat, let Bliski Wsch ó d dispell that notion right now. This all-vegetarian restaurant packs a flavor punch with meals inspired by cuisines of Lebanon, Turkey, Israel, Tunisia and Egypt. And while you dine on a savory halloumi burger or a crispy bite of falafel, you can admire the gorgeous interior, with delightful design elements that add to the overall atmosphere of the Middle Eastern space. Plus, there are two levels and VIP rooms for smaller parties. Q ul. Złota 11, M Centrum, tel. (+48) 668 01 69 79, www.bliskiwschodvege. pl . Open 12:00–22:00; Mon 12:00–21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00–23:00; Sun 12:00–21:00. €€. XTUo
This humble restaurant run by the ‘Margins’ Social Cooperative has achieved what not long ago was considered by many to be inconceivable: their hearty vegan variations of traditional Polish dishes are as, if not more, delicious than their meat-and-egg-based counterparts. That’s quite an accomplishment in a country that fed itself in ‘milk bars’ not so long ago. Alongside seitan, soy and cabbage ‘cutlets’ on their frequently changing menu, you’ll also find vegan versions of popular dishes from international cuisines, plus a few surprises. Large portions, fresh ingredients and low prices make this a great option for a healthy meal, but it’s also a great place to connect with Warsaw’s activist communities.QG‑9, ul. Krucza 23/31, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 517 61 51 22, www.lokalveganbistro.pl. Open 12:00 21:00; Sun 12:00 20:00. €€. TU6
Specjały Regionalne utensils Polish
Famed for their ecological, locally-sourced ingredients, the reasonably-sized portions and affordable prices have long made this an ideal place to sample a range traditional Polish dishes, and their deli allows you to take many of their flavours home with you. They also regularly host events, including folk music concerts, presentations on Polish history, special food and alcohol tastings, and pierogi workshops; contact them to reserve.
Also at ul. Gagarina 4 and ul. Dąbrowskiego 3 (Mokotów), and ul. Płochocińska 195 (Białołęka), with multiple shops and delis across Warsaw.QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 44, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 662 25 42 15, www.specjalyregionalne.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 23:30; Sun 12:00 22:00. €€.
XT6
Syrena Irena utensils Polish
When it comes to really good, really modern Polish food, you have to know where to look and Syrena Irena is the place to start. By focusing on making really excellent handcrafted pierogi, the chefs of this iconic space have honed their craft to a science. On the menu find a variety of pierogi you won’t find elsewhere—cherries and marzipan, white sausage and marjoram—and then customize that order with any number of toppings from caramalized onion to “mermaid sauce.”
It’s named after the iconic Syrena (siren or mermaid) of Warsaw, and this spot has a ton of little modern touches, from the art to the neon signs to the high ceilings.QG 6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6, MNowy Świat, tel. (+48) 535 851 991, www. syrenairena.pl. Open 09:00 20:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 22:00. €€. Uo6
U Barssa
utensils Polish
The Old Town is packed with places to eat, but this is one of the few truly great. As you walk from the market square into the elegant dining room, you will discover a world of luxury, craft and privilege. The signature duck baked with beetroot, fried apples and cranberry sauce, and the Angus steak with green pepper are just two of the winning dishes on the menu, and we have to mention the outstanding wine list, which is really worth visiting for on its own. Call ahead to reserve your space in this charming place.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 12/14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 24 76, www.ubarssa.pl. Open 10:00 22:00. €€€€. XTE6
If you want to splash out on some of Warsaw's finest cuisine, we definitely have you covered - testing the food was our pleasure. Whether you're looking for the right venue to impress a potential client, romantic partner or celebrate any kind of special moment, the following pages will keep you right. Bear in mind that reservations are almost essential in any of these venues.
Elixir by Dom Wódki utensils Polish
At their Vodka Atelier, you can try some 800 vodkas from around Poland and the globe; the range goes from PRL era classics to Polish ‘small batch’ distillers, designer vodkas, and flavoured vodkas. Also offered are six different types of Młody Ziemniak vodka (made from young potatoes) with varieties dating from 2017 (49 zł) to 2022 (25zł). The restaurant itself features stunningly presented, contemporary, and takes on Polish classics with a unique food and vodka pairing system, which recommends specific vodkas to complement the ingredients and flavours of each dish! Such a system is unrivaled anywhere in Poland and the world at large, so this spot is an Absolut (pardon the pun!) top-spot and a truly unique venue on Warsaw’s culinary map. Check out their lunch offer from Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00. Kitchen open until 22:20QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 11, www.domwodki.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00; Sun 12:00 22:00. €€€€. T
utensils Polish
Garnering the Grand Award (that is, 5 forks) from the prestigious gastronomic list of Poland 100 Best Restaurants, Nova Wola encapsulates the spirit of central-west Warsaw’s restlessly developing, trendsetting Wola district, and absolutely nails the concept of ‘premium casual’ dining. Residing within the luxury Crowne Plaza Hotel (part of the ‘Warsaw- The HUB’ complex), complete with an industrial chic interior of polished concrete, dark woods, gold furnishings, lots of glass and big city views, it is here that Nova Wola delivers a decidedly modern take on Polish cuisine. Under Executive Chef Paweł Suchenek’s direction, the menu emphasizes simple plates made with high-quality ingredients sourced from local Polish suppliers and foraged in the wild. Local culinary traditions with contemporary flair offer you a choice of rich soups, premium Polish seasoned beef steaks, fish, and amongst others, a special seasonal menu, with many of the entrees
and even soups available in larger portions ideal for sharing. This upscale approach with a relaxed, sociable atmosphere makes Nova Wola ideal for business, dating or get-togethers. Na zdrowie! Read about Nova Wola’s breakfast on p.87 QC‑8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 377 38 01, www.novawola.com. Open 12:30 16:00, 17:00 22:30. €€€. TU
Prime Cut utensils International
True culinary innovation exists at Prime Cut, with a unique fusion of New York classics and European flair and a passion for simple yet exquisitely prepared dishes that boast the finest quality ingredients that ensure every bite is a testament to good taste. One of several gastronomic concepts located in Elektrownia Powiśle (p.16), you will enjoy the finest steaks, fresh seafood, and seasonal vegetables. The elegant ambiance, featuring VIP rooms, is perfect for business gatherings or social occasions, while the Cigar Room offers a timeless haven for aficionados to enjoy the world’s finest cigars amidst a rich tapestry of history. Also located at ul. Twarda 18 (E-7). Don’t miss the live music Sundays from 19:00 to 22:00.QI‑6, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 43B, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 730 30 00 65, www.primecut.pl.
Open 12:00 23:00; Fri 12:00 00:00; Sat 16:00 24:00; Sun 16:00 23:00. €€€. XTU
Rozbrat 20
utensils International
For all intents and purposes, faultless. A Michelinstarred fine dining experience of the old school, though the food has a contemporary twist and packs a seriously sophisticated punch. The menu is seasonal and changes regularly. The head chef draws his inspiration from British-French cuisine and the result is nothing short of amazing. Choose from a set menu with items like foie gras and bluefish tuna, or indulge in a delicate and gorgeous tasting menu with multiple courses (gazpacho, wagyu beef, bluefin tuna, a caramel dessert and more). As for the wine list, it needs no introduction: it is one of the best in all of Poland, and the knowledgeable staff will help you choose the best complement to your meal. Enjoy it all in a gorgeous, sleek space with low lighting, plenty of wood and glass, and a general feeling that you are dining in absolute style. And of course, the experts at Michelin agree! This one is an indulgence worth going for. Make a reservation on their websiteQI‑9, ul. Rozbrat 20, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 690 12 52 70, www. rozbrat20.com.pl. Open 17:00 22:00; Sat 16:00 22:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. T6
Strefa Restaurant & Bar
utensils International Nestled within a meticulously restored pre-war tenement house at the intersection of Próżna Street and Grzybowski Square, Strefa effortlessly combines the finest of the gastronomic arts with an elegant decor, and a warm, inviting ambiance, that exudes a timeless charm. With an emphasis on authentic recipes, the menu masterfully blends contemporary culinary trends with traditional flavors, offering a diverse array of global cuisine with a Polish twist. Renowned for its expertise in fish and seafood dishes, Strefa’s exceptional culinary creations are expertly complemented by an extensive wine selection curated by top sommeliers. Moreover, the restaurant’s bar features a superb collection of worldclass spirits. Celebrated for its impeccable service, Strefa is both a recipient of prestigious awards and a pet-friendly establishment. From its award-winning exterior to the stylishly modern interiors, every detail at Strefa exudes sophistication and elegance.QE‑7, ul. Próżna 9, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 255 08 50, www.restauracjastrefa.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 20:00. €€€€. TUo6
Thai Thai
utensils Thai
Run by Warsaw’s Godfather of Thai cuisine, Surachart Urajaroen, this restaurant is 100% the real deal. No messing around with fusion concepts or making compromises. The Thai kitchen team stick firmly to tradition, and the spectacular results have earned a Thai Select certificate. Inside the National Theatre, the exterior of hefty, grey stonework gives no inkling of the opulence that awaits. Black walls with Thai designs and gold archways create a calming environment. The well laid out dining area also offers several more private spaces, great for business meetings or intimate dinner dates. Business lunch is served Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 for 53zł.
Thai Thai’s Kitchen is open until 22:30 and the restaurant closes at 23:00 on weekdays (it closes at 22:00 on Sundays)! QF‑5, Pl. Teatralny 3, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 601 81 82 83, www.thaithai.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 22:00. €€€. XT
utensils Polish
The most famous and iconic restaurant in town, and not by just a few years, we're talking about a tradition going all the way back to the 16th century! Taken under the wing of Magda Gessler, of Poland's MasterChef fame, this classy place has a guestbook that speaks for itself; Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson are a few of the
names who’ve taken a seat here. And no wonder. This enchanting establishment’s interior is a work of art, bedecked with oil paintings and ornate antiques, creating a fantastic ambience. It’s easy to feel like you’re a part of history when dining here, This is a truly fine dining experience right in the heart of Warsaw's Old Town. Enjoy the delicious, perfectly-presented food and soak up the atmosphere. Don't forget to try their signature dessert: "Soup of nothing” and taste traditional Polish-style duck.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 600 99 99 33, www. ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€€. T6
utensils Polish
Located in the city arsenal - a 17th century building once used as a royal arms warehouse - this longrunning restaurant has come back from renovation with more contemporary touches and an infusion of greenery, while still highlighting the space's original historic elements. The kitchen staff operate on a huge island in the middle, and watching these masters prepare your meal is good theatre. Enjoy along with delicious fall dishes like potato pancakes with forest mushroom sauce, aromatic pumpkin soup, deer neck carpaccio, wild boar, and more. If you want the summer menu, don’t miss chanterelles in cream with dill and potato pancakes, avocado salad and seasonal fruit. Plus, make sure to catch. their live classical piano music on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 19:00-21:00.QE‑5, ul. Długa 52, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 885 88 61 50, www. ukucharzy.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 €€€. TUE
utensils Japanese
Sometimes stiff formality and pretence go hand in hand with fine dining, and though the food may be great, the overall experience can be a bit awkward or even, ugh...tiring. As such, it’s nice to experience exclusive dining in the Japanese Izakaya style (informal eating). Wabu is very much a place for all types of people, from businessmen to couples to tourists and even families, so relax and enjoy. The interior is a minimal and elegantly unfussy gem, that blends in nicely with its modern surroundings on Plac Europejski. The menu is extensive and diverse, and includes a special menu for kids, and a mighty lunch offer (Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, soup and 8 pieces of sushi for 49zł). Simple and elegant, Wabu has our hearty endorsement.QC‑7, Plac Europejski 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 668 92 59 59, wabu.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€€. TU6
There's a plethora of options at Elektrownia Powiśle's Food Hall
The popularity of street food and fast gastro concepts has led to an explosion of food markets and indoor dining halls in Warsaw, offering dozens of diverse eating options. Not only a place to slay your hunger, these modern food markets are also trendsetting urban social spaces, featuring bars and hosting events.
From the outside, it’s obvious that this former power station (p.16) has been given a new boost of energy following a major overhaul. Going beyond an upscale urban shopping mall, Elektrownia also contains a whole host of gastro eateries, bars and event spaces. This central food court allows you to choose anything from fries, hot dogs, dim sum dumplings, kebabs, pizza, sushi, curries, Vietnamese, waffles and San Francisco street food. Additionally, there are several more restaurants in the office buildings opposite! You’re spoilt for choice, so let your mood and budget decide (not easy!). Once you’re done dining, check out their five bars, and also keep a regular eye on their events calendar so you don’t miss hip foodie happenings like their ‘Eko Targ’ (Eco Market), selling GMO-free locally-grown produce.QH‑6, ul. Zajęcza 2B, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Open 12:00 23:00; Fri 12:00 24:00; Sat 11:00 24:00; Sun 11:00 23:00. U6
Occupying a large, brick-walled space in the historic Brewery Cellars, this impressive food hall is arguably the social centre of the Browary Warszawskie district (p.30). With 13 different world cuisines to choose from - ranging from Silk & Spicy’s authentic Thai cuisine to Dziurka od Klucza’s new panozzo sandwich venture, ‘a’Panu occo?!’ - there are plenty of enticing options, including special breakfast and lunch offers.
The focal points are the impressively long Central Bar - well-stocked with beer, fine wine, and cool cocktails courtesy of legendary local bartender Karim Bibars, and the small stage which hosts DJs, bands and a range of thematic events. Grab a seat at a communal table, a plate of good food, and get socialising.QC‑7, ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2 (Browary Warszawskie), MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.foodhallbrowary.pl Open 12:00 22:00; Wed, Thu, 12:00 24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 2:00. 6T
Inspired by architectural and culinary trends from all over the world, FOOD TOWN in Fabryka Norblina is ideally situated across five picturesque historic halls, spanning a total area of 3,200 sqm. This unique place, characterised by its stunning period architecture, comes together with a soundtrack of live music and an incredible gastronomic offer that will rouse the palate of every guest that passes through. Food Town at the Norblin Factory is the largest catering zone of its kind in Warsaw, with plenty of gastrononomic concepts, taking you on a culinary journey through Europe, the Middle East, Asia and the Americas. Stepping aside from the wild gastronomic offer, you'll also discover tantalising alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages served in four thematic bars. There's also a stunning ambiance with low lighting, indoor and outdoor options and plenty more. The fifth hall of Fabryka Norblina that coexists alongside Food Hall is dedicated to entertainment and cultural events, taking place across the week – live music, stand-ups and exhibitions. Everything is truly going on here, especially if you want to have a perfect night out!.
QC/D‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.foodtown.pl. Open Mon, Tue 08:00 22:00; Wed, Thu 08:00 23:00; Fri 08:00 01:00; Sat 09:00 01:00; Sun 09:00 22:00. Bars are open one hour longer. TU6
This historic Art Nouveau market hall originally opened in 1906, but was renovated, redeveloped into a modern mixed-use facility full of bars, restaurants, bookstores and designer boutiques, and reopened in 2016. Smashingly popular, drop in to the ground floor dining area to choose from dozens of diverse options, ranging from top-class independent bistros - like Sobremesa Tapas Bar, Port Royal and Zachodni Brzeg - to some of Warsaw’s top name gastro brands, like Ćma and Warszawski Sen. If you want a variety of casual, tasty food, this is the place to go, with everything from fries to burgers to gelato. But there are fancier options to choose from, too (oysters and pizza are easily found and they are a must). This is one of THE places to be seen in the capital - easily accomplished thanks to the open floor plan - sometimes the place is so packed that mere availability and access dictate which places inside that you’re able to patronage. Even if you can’t find a table at any of the cool eateries and bars, we urge you to spend some time taking in this stunning market hall, which also features shops downstairs and space for cultural events upstairs. Beautiful details abound! QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00 01:00. XTU6
In Warsaw you’re never far from a great night out. If the weather’s warm, simply head to the river. Elsewhere skint students patronise the dive bars of The Pavilions (G-7, courtyards of ul. Nowy Świat 22/28); for a more mature alternative crowd seek out the artsy bars across the river in Praga (p.62); for a lark with the lads, hit the party strip on ul. Mazowiecka (F-6/7). In practice, bars will stay open well past their given hours if business is good, but also bolt the doors early if not. Visit our website to refine your search and see more reviews. Na zdrowie (cheers!)!
A living legend of the Polish capital that always has a finger on the pulse, Enklawa, located in the very heart of Warsaw, has spent the last 20 years hosting some of the city’s wildest cult dance parties, and, even today, it continues to provide a calendar of hotly-pursued events. Starting on Wednesdays and operating over four nights of the week, this classy premises exudes style and modernity, and its spacious rooms are brought to life every evening with the highest quality sound and lighting systems on offer. With a diverse music cycle that keeps both locals and visitors coming back to be in a space of non-stop good vibes, there’s a reason why Enklawa tops the list as one of Warsaw’s most popular clubs. Don’t believe the hype? Stop by some time and we’ll see you on the dance floor!
QF‑6, ul. Mazowiecka 12, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 606 31 11 17, www.enklawa.com
Open Wed, Thu 22:00 04:00; Fri, Sat 22:00 06:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. XUE
Part cocktail bar, part music club, part delicious restaurant, MOXO is a unique concept right in the center of Warsaw at Fabryka Norblina. And it all beats to the rythym of Nikkei, a type of culture that melds the cuisine, music and drinks of Japan and Peru that resulted from a long history of immigration from Japan to Peru. And boy does MOXO do the culture justice. Find traditional Peruvian drinks like Pisco sours alongside delicious cocktails that use wasabi and sake. In the restaurant, find sushi alongside traditional Peruvian ceviche. And then there’s the events! With Poland’s largest LED screen, a cuttingedge sound system and amazing musical events in the large, industrial-style space, MOXO offers a night you won’t forget, espcially when it turns into a unique music club every night after dinner. Don’t miss the Jazz & More MOXO Warsaw Festival this fall!
Qul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo ONZ, tel. +48 726 627 627, www.moxo.pl
Open 12:00 1:00; Mon 12:00 23:00; Fri, Sat 13:00 3:00; Sun 13:00 23:00. XUEo
Enklawa is where Warsaw finds its rhythm. (p.101).
Cocktail Bar
If you’re eager to experience Polish vodka the right way (sip, don’t shoot!), go straight to the source. Located on the 3rd floor of the Polish Vodka Museum (p.63), this spectacular bar makes dozens of their own artisanal alcohol infusions - earl grey, beetroot and lemoncake are just a few of their surprising and constantly changing flavours. Sip them straight or in delicious modern cocktails inside the refined post-industrial interior that transports you back to Warsaw’s interwar glory days. The lovely seasonal terrace offers great views of the heart of Praga and you can also try a premium whisky tasting from The Secret Speyside Collection. Na zdrowie!QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 1, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 52, www.koneserbar.pl. Open 16:00 23:00; Fri, Sat 16:00 01:00; closed Mon. Subject to change. Uo6
Cocktail Bar
Chances are you wouldn’t find this place on your own, which is why you should seek it out! Though hardly bigger than a bedroom, the locals are eager to squeeze into this corner bar located in a lovely pre-war residential building. With high ceilings and a beautiful design of oriental patterns, warm lighting and brass fixtures, Aura has a real glow to it and a friendly neighbourhood vibe. What sets it apart however, is the huge selection of bourbons. This is the kind of place where the drinks come in tumblers and the seasonal cocktails are as delicious as the atmosphere. If an ‘Old-Fashioned’ is your go-to bar order, this is your go-to bar, where they serve unique varieties of the classic drink.QG‑9, ul. Hoża 27, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 576 36 73 79, www. aurabourbonbar.pl. Open 17:00 01:00; Fri, Sat 18:00 02:00; Sun 17:00 24:00. o6
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Live music C-1 Map Coordinate
Facilities for the disabled
Year-round garden
Cocktail Bar
This is where you get those gorgeous Warsaw views -- with a drink in hand! Located on the 5th floor of the Barceló Hotel, this bar has views of the National Stadium, the Vistula River and the city’s iconic bridges. You’ll also find a huge terrace at the bar with an outdoor seasonal pool (seriously!) meaning you can cool off as you take in the sights. There’s also an a la carte menu and of course, a wide selection of cocktails, drinks and non-alcoholic beverages.QI 6, ul. Wybrzeze Kosciuszkowskie 43A, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, www.barcelo.com. Open 11:00 24:00. U6
Sports Bar
This is the perfect spot for sitting back, noshing on delicious food and watching the game! This sports-themed restaurant offers up Tex-Mex and a wide selection of drinks in a casual environment (including a lovely garden in the summer). real kicker (pun intended) is the restaurant’s 7 TVs, which means this is the perfect spot to watch the match with some friends. Or a lot of friends -- in fact, this restaurant can seat up to 140 people! They regularly organize events and it’s all pet-friendly, so you can bring your furry pal along!
Kosciuszkowskie 43A, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, (+48) 22 102 70 70 www.barcelo.com 24:00. U6E
El Koktel
Cocktail Bar
Moody and elegant, this sophisticated cocktail bar serves signature drinks with menu of classic and modern mixed drinks changes seasonally with names like ‘Enter the Void’ and ‘Futurica’, and the range of unique ingredients included nutella liqueur, agave nectar, bison grass absinthe and pomegranate tincture. These alcohol alchemists even make their own flavoured gin (cleverly named ‘Gin Dobry’), which you simply must sample by ordering a classic G&T. Ring the doorbell to be admitted.QG‑7, ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 507 45 64 47. Open 18:00 24:00; Fri, Sat 18:00 01:00; closed Mon. o6
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Westfield Arkadia Jana Pawła 82 St. mob. 601 677 962
Galeria Północna Światowida 17 St. mob. 601 677 937
Figa z Makiem Cheese Box Bar NEW
Wine Bar
This is the ultimate wine and cheese spot, with tons of cheese and classes of delicious, velvety wine that complement the suburb flavors.
Opening in October, Figa z Makiem (Fig with Poppies) Cheese Box Bar offers an array of delectable snacks from all over the world, with a special focus on
cheese (and the best wine to pair with it), including sheep, goat, cow, Italian, Spanish and French. And, for the real wine lovers, there’s even a cheese with a red wine base. If you want to enjoy the wine and cheese later, you can grab an elegant take-out box that includes cheese (of course), a bottle of wine and a card! The take out option is great for presents and the dining in option means you can have an intimate moment with friends (or by yourself) over a glass of wine and some of the best snacks around! QK‑2/3, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 538 359 777. https://konesersmakuje.pl/figa z makiem/ Open 9:00 22:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 22:00 6
Multitap Bar
The name ‘Kufle i Kapsle’ means ‘Beer Mugs and Bottlecaps’ and the interior is a perfect blend of European traditional bar design (with large, comfy seats for lounging and lots of casual, low lighting) mingling with Polish features, such as the large tiled heater in the back room. There are 20 taps on offer and the bottled beer selection has more variety than a Glaswegian glass recycling bin! An interesting selection of bar snacks are also available (everything from bar nuts to chips and cheese boards). In contrast to many other local bars, expect it to be packed and buzzing from around 17:00 (online reservations possible). A 2nd location nearby at ul. Nowy Świat 27 (G-7) is equally beloved.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 25, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 886 78 09 37, www.kufleikapsle.pl. Open 15:00 02:00; Sat, Sun 14:00 02:00. o6
Cocktail Bar
The Barceló Hotel is coming in hot again with another delightful bar (they have a few!). This one is in the hotel’s industrial-chic first floor lobby with a stylish atmosphere and both food and drinks. Take in an early morning snack here before heading out into the town (the hotel is very well located) or at night, sip on any one of a wide selection of drinks and enjoy a dessert while you do. This is a great mid-wander spot to stop. QI 6 ul. Wybrzeze Kosciuszkowskie, 43A, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, www.barcelo.com. Open 10:00 21:00.
Cocktail Bar
Relaxed & business-appropriate during the day, Myata’s sleek, modern interior full of plush love seats is the scene of weekend parties and awesome live music that no one in Warsaw can match in quite the same way. Backed up by an exquisite European food menu, high-quality shisha, and an enticing list of classic and original cocktails, Myata has developed a crowd of devoted regulars that make the place special with their ‘go hard or go home’ attitude. It’s a few-fucks-given kinda vibe that only the young and beautiful can pull off, and they do it here. The menu ranges from wasabi shrimp and teriyaki salmon to burgers, and they offer almost 300(!) flavours of shisha. There’s live music every Sunday from 21:00 and also Guinness on draught, but you’ll find most of the fairer sex sipping signature cocktails. If you were hoping Warsaw would be a bit more Wild, Wild East, check this place out.QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 6, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 534 72 73 25, www.myatawarszawa.tilda.ws. Open 12:00 01:00; Fri 12:00 04:00; Sat 16:00 04:00; Sun 16:00 01:00. XE
Making its presence known in the Polish capital’s urban jungle, the anomaly that is Pepper Events adds an exotic flair to the higher-class venues of Warsaw. The unique, sophisticated space includes both a euphoric club scene and a restaurant with an indulgent food menu that includes gorgeous small plates and more. That’s all amplified with a stunning year-round garden and cocktail bar of the highest calibre, making it an ideal space for an intimate business meeting, a banquet, a product presentation, a large corporate event or even bachelor/bachelorette parties. This is one of the best spots in the city for an event - trust us!QF‑9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 06 80 68, www.pepperevents.pl. Open 12:00 24:00. oEX6
The folks behind this multifaceted establishment just steps from Ogród Saski (Saxon Garden) have taken on quite the task for themselves, as their self-described motto is to show their patrons ‘the life’. It’s all in the name, ie Selavi, or in its original French rendering C’est la vie. The menu features a wide variety of well-crafted European fare, including excellent seafood and steaks; for the more budget conscious, who still like to enjoy a bit of decadence, the set menu lunch gets the approval of both our wallet and palate. On weekday evenings, Selavi is a top-notch cocktail bar, while at the weekends it morphs into a late night club, where some of Warsaw’s most beautiful inhabitants come to dance the night away and usher in the dawn.QF‑6, Plac Małachowskiego 2, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 535 31 89 33, www.selaviwarsaw.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 04:00; Closed Sun. oE6
Don’t let the stately, nondescript facade fool you, once you enter you’ll be met with an incredibly eclectic selection of food, drinks, smokes (by which we mean shisha) and décor. It’s fitting, as ‘SLA’ refers to the mythical Shangri-La, where everyone lives in harmony and enjoys the finer things in life. With a menu that ranges from bao and tempura calamari to beef tartare, there should be something to please everyone. It’s after dark that SLA really shines, with every drink imaginable served from behind a 14-metre bar - said to be the longest in all of Poland, and unforgettable parties.QG‑7, ul. Świętokrzyska 3, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 505 60 69 36, www.slawarsaw.com. Open 19:00 01:00; Fri, Sat 19:00 05:00. E
Teatro Cubano Warsaw Club
This sultry, rhythmic Cuban lounge and dance club is a delight. With giant palms flanking the entrance, as you enter you are enveloped by the joyful vibes and vibrant blues and yellows of this huge, spacious club with high ceilings and a massive bar at its centre, behind which is the large stage which regularly hosts international touring acts and DJs mixing Latino and pop music. Attracting a young, international crowd of students, locals and travellers, diversity is something PL could use more of, and this boisterous club embraces it. Stop by!QF‑5, ul. Fredry 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 538 19 44 94, www.teatrocubano. com. Open 22:00 03:00; Thu 22:00 04:00; Fri, Sat 22:00 05:00. X
Cocktail Bar
Perched on the 21st floor of Warsaw - The HUB, with an enchanting outdoor terrace and panoramic views of Warsaw’s city centre, The Roof offers a captivating setting for enjoying drinks, live music, a delightful dinner, or gathering with friends. A truly sky-high experience, the stunning vistas of the city are perfectly complemented by the bar offer, which invites visitors to explore the exciting and diverse selection of cocktails, and unique concoctions that have been curated to reflect the extraordinary essence of Warsaw’s skyline and capture the spirit of the city in every sip. In line with the Crowne Plaza Hotel, the prestigious name that looks after this magical nest, The Roof floor boasts stylish interiors that contribute to its wonderfully sophisticated atmosphere. The sights are further enhanced by a range of acoustic performances and intimate cultural events that are hosted here, creating an ambience that fosters both relaxation and engagement. Whether you are seeking a memorable night out, a place to enjoy live music, or a spot to savour enticing cocktails while taking in the breathtaking views, this is the place!QC 8, ul. Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. +48 881 97 41 44, www. theroofskybar.com. Open 18:00 01:00. UE
While the cocktail revolution continues to shake and stir up Warsaw’s drinking habits, some places manage to stand out from the crowd. The ROOTS has, without a doubt, secured a very special place in the hearts of serious cocktail devotees, both local and international. For starters, the bar is a shrine to the noble art of being a barman/mixologist, for which reason you should definitely check out their intriguing collection of vintage and antique ‘tools of the trade’ – the collection of mixers alone already stands at nearly 100 items! Add to this a library of antiquarian books on the subject of bartending/ cocktail mixing and you know you are dealing with some hardcore and very scholarly mixologists. ROOTS is so well-versed in the art of making cocktails, they have enough tricks for two great menus - one featuring classics of the trade and another which presents signature drinks based on seasonal regional flavours. Make sure you scrutinise both and ask for a recommendation at the bar. Food is also available in the form of a Polish fusion menu, which is intriguing enough to at least take a peak at. Quite brilliant!QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 660 333 983, www.theroots.pl. Open 17:00 24:00; Fri 17:00 02:00; Sat 14:00 02:00; closed Mon, Sun. 6
Cocktail Bar
Sophisticated, atmospheric and contemporary, Upper Deck lives up on the perch of Warsaw's historic food hall, Hala Koszyki, located in the center of the city. This spot, with warm lighting, sparkling, smoky cocktails and delightful jazz music, offers a exceptional experience for those seeking innovative cocktails and tasty wines. With an impressive selection of over 70 different labels available at attractive prices, it's the perfect destination for enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike. Self-described as having a 'jazz soul', live music is an important part of the atmosphere, especially on Friday nights when they have live jazz concerts. Ideal for intimate meetings, business gatherings, or groups of friends -- everyone enjoys this spot. Keep in mind that the entire establishment can be reserved for gatherings of 40-90 people, making it an ideal choice for hosting training sessions complete with multimedia presentation equipment, as well as business meetings, and other events. Located on the mezzanine, easy access is available via stairs or elevator to the first floor.QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 507 66 39 75. Open 14:00 22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00 01:00; closed Mon, Sun. E
Warsaw offers a wide diversity of shopping experiences, from old school markets to luxury boutiques (primarily along ul. Nowy Świat and ul. Mokotowska: G-7, H-8/9) to some of Central Europe’s most modern shopping malls. For visitors, it’s an opportunity to shop exclusive designer brands, catch bargains on known commodities or find forgotten treasures. Happy hunting!
Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line
This gorgeous gallery specialises in luxury handcrafted jewellery of the amber variety, but crystal, silver and gold items can be purchased here too. This is the location of the largest and oldest amber dealer in the city, a family run business going back to 1988, proudly selling amber of Polish origincertified by the International Amber Association. Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line Even heads of State and royalty have been spotted procuring presents here, from Bill Clinton to Japanese princesses (whose thank you letters you can see inside)! Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top designers, plus high quality jewellery made with other precious stones.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 69 61, www.warsawamber.pl. Open 10:00 19:00; Sun 10:00 17:00.
A phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components to create a unique and personalised piece. The range continues to grow, with the original luxury charm bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes, then have it hand-engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you. A ‘musthave’ item amongst local celebs and fashionistas. Also at ul. Francuska 27 (L-7), Westfield Arkadia (B/C-2), Galeria Mokotów, Sadyba Best Mall and Centrum Handlowe Janki.QH‑9, ul. Mokotowska 63, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 506 19 08 97, www.lilou.pl. Open 11:00 19:00; Sat 11:00 18:00; Sun 11:00 16:00*.
This classy hat boutique (whose name is a Polish phonetic pronunciation of the French ‘le chapeau’) brings French flair to Warsaw, offering a range of hats from Panama to fedoras, berets, straw hats and much much more. The brands are primarily from Poland and Italy, but now include their own Le Szapo label headpieces designed right here in Kraków (congrats!). With a retro urbane atmosphere and warm living room vibe created by the welcoming staff, who will gladly help you find the perfect headpiece, you’re sure to leave looking more dapper than you arrived. In case you don’t want to travel with a hatbox, all their stylish stock can also be ordered online.QG‑11, ul. Mokotowska 8, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 606 74 07 29, www.leszapo.com. Open 11:00 19:00; closed Sun.
Founded in 2011 by two friends, RISK Made in Warsaw embodies the concept of ethical fashion done well. From flattering dresses to flowy shirts, chic jackets and more, there literally something for everyone here. The founders say they view clothing in three parts: the materials, the way they’re made, and how they make you feel.
And all three of those aspects are focuses of RISK. With gorgeous, timeless silhouettes for people of all shapes and sizes, as well as precise tailoring, the clothes are guaranteed to make the wearer feel their most confident and beautiful.
The patterns, too, are gorgeous and meaningful, including prints designed based on (for example) traditional Łowicz folk costumes. Another popular print is taken from a typical floor tile design found in old Warsaw tenement homes, making a gorgeous, architectural pattern. Other prints are reminiscent of traditional colors and styles found in countries around South America and Africa. Not only that, but they work with Polish designers who are niche and unique, and their clothing is sewn in Poland using environmentally friendly products and biodegradable materials. The founders say they eschew the typical fast fashion model in favor of production that is hyper-local, and that definitely shows. The clothing itself is created using ecofriendly, low-waste methods. This is ethical fashion at its finest! QG‑7, Ul. Szpitalna 6A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 882 12 14 44, www.riskmadeinwarsaw.com.
Open 11:00 19:00; Sun 11:00 19:00*.
E-Manufaktura
It’s sometimes hard to find that perfect gift from Poland to take back home with you. We understand the problem, and it may be the case you get home, only to regret not having bought that sweet little tea cup you had your eye on.
Now this is why we whole heartedly recommend E-Manufaktura, which is not only a shop in Warsaw, but also an online shop for you to look through an extensive catalogue in the comfort of your home. From egg cups, plates, bowls, and all other kitchenware you can think of, you’ll find it here! The famous hand-painted ceramics, Bolesławiec, make up the core of what’s on offer. It doesn’t get more Polish than this. A must-use service.QF‑3, ul. Freta 14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 636 06 84, www.e manufaktura.com. Open 10:00 18:00.
Of all Polish gifts, none are as visually exciting as Bolesławiec pottery. With a mix of cups, plates, bowls and other kitchenware with various colours and designs, you can’t go wrong to buy friends, family, or even yourself one of these classic but quirky items. What’s more, at this location, not only do you get the chance to buy something of your pleasing, but you can join in some workshops (offered Wed-Sat 14:00-20:00) to make and paint anything you want in the studio! The staff speak English and will teach you the history of Bolesławiec pottery during your session! QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 80 01 84, www.pomaluj.art. Open 14:00 19:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
Smart Kids Store is an extension of the innovative educational center Smart Kids Planet (p.78), and a one-stop-shop that offers a wide range of products and services related to children’s education and development. The wide selection of educational toys and games, include interactive and STEM-based toys, puzzles, and games that are designed to support children’s cognitive development and encourage problem-solving and critical thinking skills. The shop also offers a variety of art and craft supplies, which are perfect for encouraging children’s creativity and imagination. You can also find wide range of educational books, workbooks, and activity books, including storybooks, picture books, and non-fiction books in various languages.QD‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www.smartkidsstore.pl. Open 11:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 20:00.
The official store of Bolesławiec in Warsaw is an ideal place for buying traditional, high-quality, handdecorated ceramics. A wide selection of dishes, accessories and decorative elements can be found here - as beautiful as they are durable and functional. Each element is hand-formed and then decorated with a unique stamping technique. Attention to detail, the characteristic shade of cobalt, and deep roots in tradition have made Bolesławiec ceramics known not only in Poland but all over the world. This particular store is located in the centre of Warsaw, at the Rondo ONZ metro station, 800m from the central station and the Palace of Culture & Science.QD‑7, ul. Prosta 2/14, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 624 84 08, www.zakladyboleslawiec.com. Open 10:00 18:00; Sat 09:00 16:00; closed Sun.
Set inside an impressive collection of buildings evoking the Baroque style of Warsaw’s Old Town, this is a premium outlet mall, with the interior that makes you feel like you’re walking through a fashion high street. Here you’ll find discounts ranging from 30-70% off on brands like Adidas, Armani, Boss, Calvin Klein, Coccinelle, Gant, Guess, Furla, Karl Lagerfeld, Levi’s, Liu Jo, Longines, Luisa Spagnoli, Michael Kors, Nike, Pinko, Polo Ralph Lauren, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and more. Just 30mins from the city centre and 20mins from Chopin Airport, it’s easily reached by car and public transport (use a zone 2 ticket and get off at ‘Energetyczna 01’).Qul. Puławska 42E (Piaseczno), MWilanowska, tel. (+48) 22 737 31 15, www.designeroutletwarszawa.pl. Open 10:00 22:00; Sun 10:00 21:00*.
Klif has been attracting fashion lovers for over 20 years, with locations across Poland. If you think you’ve seen this all before, however, you’re mistaken. This is the capital, after all, and the quality of brands is exceptionally high, not to mention the stunning showrooms inside. Shop top tags like MaxMara, Elisabetta Franchi, PennyBlack, Michael Kors, Karl Lagerfeld and DM Moda, as well as respected mainstream brands like Olsen and S’Portofino Another draw is the convenient, easy to get to location - roll in by tram, bus or car. What’s more, anyone can use the services of the pro stylists at FASHION STUDIO, and this is also the only shopping centre to have a concierge point.QB‑4, ul. Okopowa 58/72, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 535 41 14 58, www.klif.pl. Open 09:00 21:00; Sun 10:00 20:00*. Eurospar open Mon Sat 08:30 22:00; Sun 09:00 20:00*.
In its effort to get people out of shopping malls and into churches, the Polish government has imposed regulations preventing most businesses from opening their doors on Sundays. Of course, there are exceptions, including 7 special Sundays when shops are open each year, and the rules don’t apply to restaurants, bars, cafes, pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets, souvenir shops and anywhere the business owner is personally working behind the counter. When you see an asterisk* after the Sunday hours in our guide, that means the venue is closed on Sundays. Upcoming shopping Sundays: Dec 15, Dec 22.
When Elektrownia Powiśle (p.53) opened, we can only say we were impressed. The exterior doesn’t look all too big, but once inside you realise it’s much bigger than you’d ever expect! So what’s here?
Imagine this as a multifunctional centre, including sooped up shops completely new to Poland (nay, in Central and Eastern Europe even!) such as Urban Outfitters, True Color, Weekday, COS, Elementy, Paprocki & Brzozowski, Balagan, Galilu, Chosen By (to name a few), plenty more boutiques, beauty salons, a top floor event space, as well as their awesome gastro and nightlife offer (p.16).QH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Elektrownia open Mon Sun 11:00 21:00 Food Hall open Mon Thu 12:00 23:00, Fri 12:00 24:00, Sat 11:00 24:00, Sun 11:00 23:00 Beauty Hall open Mon Sat 08:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 19:00.
This massive outlet mall is closer than you think! Save up to 70% on premium name brands like Adidas, Nike, Ecco, Medicine, Guess, Under Armour, Pepe Jeans, Marc O’Polo, Converse, Vans, Puma, Tefal, Tommy Hilfiger, Smyk, 4F, RTV Euro AGD and more.
FACTORY Outlet Annopol The options here are nearly endless and you can find amazing premium wear for such a low price that it’s going to be hard to rationalize NOT buying everything. Plus, you can find food and cafe options here so it’s really a spend-allday or shop-till-you-drop kind of experience.Qul. Annopol 2 (Białołęka), tel. (+48) 22 441 90 00, www. annopol.factory.pl. Open 10:00 21:00; Sun 10:00 20:00*.
This outlet shopping mall southwest of the city centre is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over regular rack rates, all in a gorgeous, sun-drenched spot! FACTORY Outlet Ursus Recognisable brands include Tommy Hilfiger, Marc’o Polo, BOSS, Nike, Adidas, Guess, Calvin Klein, New Balance, Calzedonia, Lindt, Haribo, Tefal, Ochnik, Wittchen, and many more. And, it needs repeating, these are all at a discount. So you can shop premium clothing, jewelry and more for way less than the normal price! One of the only such outlet centres in Europe, you can get there quickly by car via the S8 route or Nowolazurowa street. You can also reach it about 30mins by train or bus; check jakdojade.pl for accurate, up-to-the-minute connections.QPl. Czerwca 1976r. 6 (Ursus), tel. (+48) 22 478 22 70, www.ursus.factory.pl. Open 10:00 21:00; Sun 10:00 20:00*.
Print space is finite, but the internet is a vast, vacuous void we’ve devoted our lives to filling. If the venue you’re looking for isn’t listed here, you’ll likely find it amongst the hundreds of places in Warsaw listed on our website: warsaw.inyourpocket.com
3/4 Koneser Bar 102
13 Rogów Food & Friends 88
Adam Mickiewicz Monument 47
Agnieszka Osiecka Monument 64
AïOLI Bread & Apertivo 88
AïOLI Cantine 89
Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line 109
Anielewicz Bunker 75
AURA Bar 102
Banjaluka 85
Beauty Hall 80
Beef n’ Pepper 89
Beer&Wine SPA 80
Belvedere Palace 57
Bheaven Sky Bar 103
Bierhalle 89
Bliski Wschód Vege Street Food & Cocktail Bar 92
Botanical Garden 58
Bristol & Europejski Hotels 49
Browary Warszawskie 30
Bułkę przez Bibułkę 86
Centrum Praskie Koneser 63
Champs Sports Bar 103
Choose Your Adventure! 50
Chopin Benches 49
Chopin Monument 57
Ciao Napoli 90
Clash Restaurant & Bar at NYX Hotel Warsaw 90
Copernicus Science Centre 54
Croque Madame 86
Czerwony Wieprz 90
Designer Outlet Warszawa 112
Dom Mody KLIF 112
Elektrownia Powiśle 53, 112
Elektrownia Powiśle Food Hall 17, 98
Elixir by Dom Wódki 94
El Koktel 103
E-Manufaktura 110
Enklawa Art & Music Club 101
Estell Clinic 81
Fabryka Norblina 31
FACTORY Outlet Annopol 112
FACTORY Outlet Ursus 112
Figa z Makiem Cheese Box Bar 103
Food Hall Browary 98
FOOD TOWN - Fabryka Norblina 99
Fryderyk Chopin Museum 52
Gnojna Góra 44
Gościniec Polskie Pierogi 90
Gospoda pod Zygmuntem 91
Hala Koszyki 34, 99
HE Concept Store 109
Holy Cross Church 50
Invisible Exhibition 72
Jan Kiliński Monument 40
Jewish Historical Institute 75
King Sigismund's Column 46
Kładka na Wiśle (Footbridge) 55
Kufle i Kapsle 104
Le Szapo Hat Shop 109
Lilou 109
Lobby bar Vistula 104
Lokal Vegan Bistro 92
L'Osteria 85
Maria Skłodowska-Curie
National Ethnographic Museum 72
Neon Museum 64
Nicolaus Copernicus Monument 50
Nova Wola 87, 94
Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery 75
Old Orangery 58
Old Town Defensive Ramparts 41
Old Town Square 43
Palace of Culture & Science 27
Palace on the Isle 58
Panattoni Café 87
Pasaż Wiecha 33
Pepper Events 104
PGE National Stadium 64
PierOgarnia 92
Plac Europejski & Warsaw Spire 31
Plac Grzybowski 32
Plac Pięciu Rogów & ul. Chmielna 33
Plac Piłsudskiego 30
Plac Zamkowy 39
Plac Zbawiciela 34
POLIN Museum 75
Polish History Museum 72
Polish Vodka Museum 63
Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki 110
Potocki Mausoleum 61
Powiśle Mermaid Statue 53
Praga Museum of Warsaw 63
Presidential Palace 48
Prime Cut 95
PRIMITIVO Kuchnia i Wino 92
RISK made in Warsaw 110
Royal Castle 40
Rozbrat 20 95
SAM Powiśle 87
Saska Kępa - Ul. Francuska 64
Saxon Garden 30
Selavi 105
Setki Powodów 92
Skaryszewski Park 64
Skutery Centrum Motor Scooter
Rental 25
SLA Warsaw 105
Smart Kids Planet 78, 83
Smart Kids Store 110
Specjały Regionalne 93
