Wroclaw In Your Pocket - January - April 2018 by Poland In Your Pocket

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Wrocław No. 41, January – April 2018 Old Town Walking Tour Nave Sculpture

No. 41 - 5zł

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p.6 p.67

Contents

Wrocław

Feature Old Town Walking Tour p.6 Arrival & Transport

Shopping

Basic History

Directory

What’s On 18

Hotels

Cafés

Maps & Indexes

Restaurants

Nightlife

Sightseeing

Ostrów Tumski Centennial Hall & Surrounds Gnomes

64 68 71

Jewish Wrocław

Further Afield Project Riese

Leisure

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Old Town Map Ostrów Tumski Map Centennial Hall & Surrounds Map Street Index Listings Index Features Index City Map City Centre Map

6 65 69 92 94 95 96 98

IN PRINT ONLINE ON YOUR MOBILE January – April 2018

Foreword Winter is descending upon the city, and here we are putting together walking tours... Yeah, trudging around in sub-zero weather with sleet in your eyes isn’t pleasant, but think of it this way: we streamlined the sightseeing for you so you can make a dash around the most important old town sights before ducking into a candlelit cafe for some hot beer (p.47) or mulled wine. The tour starts on p. 6 and we have a handy map for you as well. Once the drinks are consumed and you can feel blood moving in your extremities again, we encourage you to take a tram out to Centennial Hall (p.68) where you can take part in that quintessential winter pastime that is ice skating at the Pergola ice rink (p.76) while gazing at Wrocław’s only UNESCO-listed site (we hope no alcoholrelated injuries occur). For something more indoorsy, there’s always museum hopping, with our top picks being the fantastic Depot History Centre (p.60) and Hydropolis (p.62), a museum dedicated exclusively to water, while a packed calendar of events (p.18) means we expect to feel fully cultured by springtime. Thanks for joining us, and we hope you enjoy your time in Wrocław! Born in Upper Silesia, Janina Krzysiak spent her formative years outside of Philly, PA, before moving back to Poland to indulge her love for cheap air travel, walkable cities, and Eastern European nostalgia. Her favourite thing in Wrocław is the postmodernist monstrosity that is Solpol (p.89).

COVER STORY Kraków-based photographer Patryk Michalski (patrykmichalski.pl) is the man responsible for this winttry shot of the back of the Saint John the Baptist Cathedral on Ostrów Tumski. To find out more about this beautiful building turn to p. 67.

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 15,000 copies published 3 times per year Sales Consultant: Agata Urbanowicz (+48) 606 749 642 Events & Marketing: Monika Boguszewska Stopka (+48) 882 079 723 Writer & Editor: Janina Krzysiak Events Editor: Emilia Meres Research: Aleksandra Mańkut, Gabriela Mańkut, Patrycja Ples Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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Wrocław In Your Pocket

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Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

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Old Town Walking Tour If there’s room for a little wide-eyed rambling in your schedule, you’ll find no more rewarding experience than meandering around the Old Town. For those who prefer a bit more structure, we’ve put together an eleven-stop walking tour, which will take you through all the main sights. Let’s go! 0 MARKET SQUARE (RYNEK) While you’re taking in the medieval majesty of the Wrocław’s market square (Rynek), bear in mind that it was almost totally rebuilt from a pile of ruins after the Siege of 1945. Such was the remarkable dedication to detail of Wrocław’s ‘pioneers’ – those who resettled here from the east after WWII - that today tourists can even admire a replica of the stone pillory (south east of the Town Hall, F-5) used to flog people from 1492 to well into the 18th century. In the post-war period the statue of famous writer Aleksander Fredro (seated southwest of the Town Hall, F-5) was also brought from Lviv in 1956 to replace the statue that had previously occupied the space up till the end of the war - that of Kaiser Wilhelm. Wrocław’s market square and much of the urban grid around it was laid out by city planners in 1241. It was then and remains even now one of the largest squares of its kind in Europe, and the magnificent Town Hall (Ratusz) at its centre is a masterpiece of medieval architecture. Work began on the city’s administrative seat in the late 13th century and continued for 250 years, resulting in the eclectic edifice covered in decorative embellishments that we see today. Today the beautiful ensemble contains the Museum of Burgher Art, as well as numerous restaurants, cafes and bars. Ranging from Gothic to Art Nouveau, the impressive facades of the townhouses lining the market square also deserve closer inspection, one notable exception being the drab ten-storey office building at Rynek 11. Completed in 1931 the structure was designed by Heinrich Rump and offers a glimpse of how the market square may have looked had a ludicrous project to modernise the historic centre come to fruition. It was the idea of Max Berg - creator of the concrete bliss called Centennial Hall - to demolish the buildings surrounding the Rynek, replacing them with 20 storey concrete towers. After much deliberation city authorities abandoned the plan, in the process saving the Wrocław loved by all today.QE‑5.

Town Hall

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1 TOWN HALL, MUSEUM OF BURGHER ART The first thing you’ll probably notice about the Town Hall (Ratusz) is that it seems to be patched together from bits and pieces of a dozen different buildings, and in many ways it was. Construction began at the end of the 13th century and continued - through all the changing political and artistic forces - for about 250 years. The Town Hall was the centre of city life up until the early 20th century, housing the Town Council, merchants’ stalls and (most importantly?) a beer cellar. The building escaped relatively unscathed after World War II (an estimated 10% was damaged). After reconstruction work, it was re-opened as the Museum of Burgher Art (Muzeum Sztuki Mieszczańskiej). Inside you can see the remarkable Gothic interiors, a collection of silver and other city artefacts. Unfortunately these exhibits are poorly marked and finding your way around can be a bit of a stab in the dark. For us, the most fun part of the Town Hall is exploring the elaborate exterior decoration; see if you can find scenes from Aesop’s fables, or grotesque scenes of medieval pub life.QF‑5, Rynek, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 90, www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free for permanent exhibits. U

Plac Solny

Photo by Daviidos, CC-BY-SA-4.0

2 PLAC SOLNY The main square’s little flower-loving sibling, the Salt Market was built quite early in the city’s history, most likely in 1242, while Wrocław was being reconstructed following the disastrous Mongol Invasion. Named variously Saltzring (Salt Square) and Polnischer Markt (Polish Market), the square was where salt from Wieliczka and Halicz and goods like leather, honey, and beeswax - mainly from Poland - were traded from the Middle Ages until the 19th century. Some strange scenes took place here occasionally - the most vivid, perhaps, happened in the 15th century, when Wrocław was under Bohemian rule. At the time, the city’s inhabitants were largely influenced by the ideas of Czech reformer Jan Hus, a predecessor to Protestantism. The Vatican, outraged at such blasphemy, sent inquisitor John of Capistrano (a ‘soldier-saint’ who would later lead a crusade at age 70) to talk this heretical nonsense out of the Wrocław lambs. John’s fiery sermons were so effective, in fact, that worshippers willingly carried furniture and valuables out of their homes to be burned in a huge bonfire on Plac Solny. Things soon took a darker turn, as local Jews - the ultimate

January – April 2018

Old Town Walking Tour heretics according to the inquisitor - were were burned at the stake along with the couches and jewellery boxes. In 1996, these events were commemorated with a flame-like Little Spire sculpture erected smack dab in the centre of the square; created by artist Adam Wyspiański, the sculpture is a nod to the (big) 90m Spire monument located next to the Centennial Hall. Today Plac Solny is known for numerous 24hr flower stalls, which turn it into a phantasmagoria of colours night and day. Points of interest include a 1997 ‘antique style’ dragon fountain, the 1822 neoclassical Old Stock Exchange building at no. 16, the early 18th-century Oppenheimer House at no. 4, an avant-garde modernist building from the 1920s - which used to house the definitelynot-PC ‘Pharmacy Under the Moor’ - at no. 2/3, and an underground WWII bunker (sadly not open to the public). QE‑5, Plac Solny. 3 JAŚ & MAŁGOSIA Wrocław’s not short on photo opportunities and one particular favourite is the two skinny buildings that connect ul. Św Mikołaja with ul. Odrzańska at the northwest corner of the market square. This pair of storybook tenements are known locally as ‘Jaś i Małgosia,’ or commonly ‘Hansel & Gretel’ for foreigners, apparently because the connecting archway is symbolic of a couple holding hands. Built in the 16th and 18th century respectively they are all that remain of the line of townhouses that once circled the cemetery of St. Elizabeth’s, and the archway is inscribed with a Latin motto proclaiming ‘Death is the gate to life.’ Jaś - the smaller, less decorative of the two buildings - features several bas-reliefs by local artist Eugeniusz Get-Stankiewicz, including a self-portrait. Get-Stankiewicz is a bit of a local legend and commonly regarded as one of the key movers in 1960s Polish counter-culture. Since 1995 the Jaś house has also doubled as his studio, which he rents from the city for a token one groszy coin per month. Małgosia, on the other hand, houses a long, narrow, completely rubbish bar (Drink Bar Małgosia) on the ground floor which doubles as a souvenir shop. The saving grace is that in the warm months there’s a brilliant little beer garden in the courtyard in front of the church.QE‑5, ul. Odrzańska 39/40.

Hansel and Gretel

Wrocław In Your Pocket

St. Elizabeth’s Church

Photo by Katie pl, CC-BY-SA-3.0

4 ST. ELIZABETH’S CHURCH

Among the oldest churches in Wrocław and the tallest buildings in the Old Town, St. Elizabeth’s is unmistakable. A church has stood on this site since the 12th century, but the current Gothic structure dates to the 14th century. This is not the luckiest church in the world: it was destroyed in 1529 by heavy hail, suffered severe damage in WWII and then was the victim of a mysterious fire in 1976. Today the church serves as a military garrison church. Inside you’ll find impressive Gothic and Renaissance altars and over 100 tombs of once prominent citizens. The highlight is the 91m tower (the original tower was 128m), but don’t underestimate the climb of over 300 steps. The view from the top is more than worth the arduous journey and 5zł.QE‑5, ul. Św. Elżbiety 1/1, tel. (+48) 71 343 16 38. Open 10:00 18:00. No visiting during mass please. 5 STARE JATKI One of Wrocław’s most engaging streets, ul. Jatki is no more than one city block long, connecting ul. Kiełbaśnicza with ul. Odrzańska. Its picturesque charm is no doubt due to the fact that it has retained its medieval character throughout the ages; though most of the structures on Stare Jatki date from the 17th and 18th centuries, the line of low level buildings were constructed on medieval foundations and some elements from the 13th century are still visible on the south side of the street. Though in past times the principal industry here was meat - butchered beasts filled the wooden stalls, today the alleyway is home to numerous artists’ studios and

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Old Town Walking Tour souvenir stalls. The defining feature of Stare Jatki is the collection of bronze farm animals at the start of the street. Sculpted by Piotr Wieczorek and erected in the 1990s this ‘Memorial to Slaughtered Animals’ was funded by the local government, and in addition to being one of Wrocław’s most photographed attractions, also serves as an obstacle course for party casualties pouring out of Klub Na Jatkach. QE‑5, ul. Jatki.

CITY MOAT To the best of our knowledge, Wrocław is the only Polish city to still retain a functional city moat, though you’d be forgiven for mistaking it for one of the many slivers of the Oder River and its tributaries - after all, this is the ‘city of one hundred bridges’. The original 13th century fortifications made use of two concentric moats; the slightly older inner one, snugly encircling the part of the old town that wasn’t protected by the river, was filled in towards the end of the 19th century as part of a broader effort to dismantle the fortifications, which also saw Cathedral Island (Ostrów Tumski) cease being an island. The outer moat, left largely intact, was turned into a leafy promenade, and today it is one of the nicest places in the city for an afternoon walk, bypassing the District of Mutual Respect, the National Music Forum, and Partisan Hill before terminating at Park Słowackiego.

6 WROCŁAW UNIVERSITY

Founded by the Jesuits in 1670, the magnificent Baroque main building of Wrocław University and the adjacent Church of the Blessed Name of Jesus were built on the site of a derelict Piast castle after a land grant from Emperor Leopold. In 1811, Prussia secularised all church property and took over administration of the university. The dying days of WWII saw the university library turned into a makeshift HQ for the occupying Nazis, and at the war’s end the German faculty were all but exiled, with the replacement professors who arrived from the University of Lwów forming the first Polish faculty to teach here. Past professors include Alois Alzheimer (who gave his name to the disease) and Robert Bunsen (who didn’t invent the Bunsen burner but improved it to such a degree that it was named in his honour). Since the start of the 20th century the university has produced a remarkable 9 Nobel Prize winners, and over 40,000 new students are enrolled each year.

Wrocław University

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Despite its ongoing function as an academic institution, the main university building is open to tourists as a museum. Two tickets are available, giving you access to 3 or 4 rooms, plus a free audioguide (available in English, Polish, German, Russian, Spanish or Italian). We recommend you splash out for all four rooms, but be aware that they are laid out over four floors and there is no elevator. The first of the University’s main highlights is Aula Leopoldina - a ceremonial hall exploding with cherubs and Baroque swag. The painting on the ceiling depicts the apotheosis of God’s wisdom, while portraits of the university’s founding fathers ring the walls; years ago four of them were stolen and two have yet to be returned. Winding upstairs past the odd exhibition and a line in the floor demarcating the 51st parallel - which runs right through the building - your visit to the museum ends on the terrace of the university’s ‘Mathematical Tower’ which affords panoramic views of the Old Town and Odra River.QF‑4, Pl. Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48) 71 375 26 18, www.muzeum.uni.wroc.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. During lectures and certain special events the Aula Leopoldina is closed to visitors. Admission 14-12/108zł depending on how many rooms you wish to visit. N January – April 2018

Old Town Walking Tour 7 UNIVERSITY CHURCH OF THE BLESSED NAME OF JESUS This Late Baroque church has been ranked among the most beautiful in Central Europe, and makes a worthwhile visit. Built by the Jesuits as part of the university complex in the late 17th century on the site of the Piast castle, a section of the original castle structure can still be seen in the northern sacristy - the alcove at the far end of the church. The interior, painted to imitate marble and gilt, is very well preserved and most of the furnishings are original. Look up to see the fresco on the vaults; the figures are 18th-century depictions of natives from the Americas, Africa, Asia and Europe. Visitors are even given an audioguide which is available in five different languages. Donations suggested, but not required.QF‑4, Pl. Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48) 71 344 94 23, www.uniwersytecki.archidiecezja.wroc. pl. Open only by prior arrangement in Dec-Feb. From March open 11:00 - 15:30, Sun 13:30 - 15:30. Closed Mon, Tue. No visiting during mass please. 8 THE OSSOLINEUM This stunning Baroque palace complex on the Odra riverbank was rebuilt to its late 17th century designs after being damaged heavily during WWII and is today one of the most outstanding works of Baroque architecture in PL. Originally a hospital and convent, later a college, today the magnificent grounds are home to the Ossolineum Library - an important research centre and national archive, the country’s oldest still-running publishing centre and one of its largest library collections. Established in 1817 by Józef Maksymilian Ossoliński when he began collecting Polish manuscripts and cultural documents in his Vienna flat, recognising their importance to national culture after Poland was wiped from the world map, Ossoliński’s private library became a national institute and was eventually moved to L’viv where it expanded generously. After postwar border changes the collection was moved to Wrocław, however communist authorities confiscated over 80% of it which presumably remains in L’viv today. The collections of the Ossolineum are some of the most valuable in the country and include manuscripts by Polish bards Adam Mickiewicz and Juliusz Słowacki, writings by Copernicus, and drawings by Rembrandt and Durer. The site of regular free exhibitions (which have their own opening hours),

Ossolineum

10 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Stay up-to-date facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket the Ossolineum is otherwise worth a look around for the building itself, with the library and inner and outer courtyards all accessible to the public. In May 2016, the Ossolineum opened a second branch on the market square (Rynek 6, E-5), displaying the original manuscript of Mickiewicz’s epic poem Pan Tadeusz and illuminating the Romantic Age during which it was written via digital documents and photos, 3D animation and augmented reality.QG‑4, ul. Szewska 37, tel. (+48) 71 344 44 71, www.ossolineum.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. 9 HALA TARGOWA Designed by Richard Pluddemann and Heinrich Kuster, and built between 1906 and 1908, Wrocław’s Market Hall has a handsome, traditional-looking facade, while the interior is a concrete cathedral of elliptical arches; in fact, this innovative reinforced concrete structure directly inspired Max Berg to create Wrocław’s UNESCOlisted Centennial Hall. Worth a look from an architectural, cultural and practical standpoint, in Hala Targowa you’ll find earnest locals hawking top quality fruit and vegetables on the ground floor, as well as a wide selection of local cheese, salami and hams. Upstairs is a bewildering array of bric-a-brac, nylon underwear and plastic kitchen utensils, and a set of surprisingly clean and modern public toilets. To your right as you enter the market is one of the city’s best little no-name, no-fuss pierogi bars. Essential.QG‑4, ul. Piaskowa 17, tel. (+48) 71 344 27 31. Open 08:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun. 10 BASZTA NIEDŹWIADKA One of the only surviving fragments of the medieval defensive walls that once circled Wrocław’s Old Town, this obscure tower hidden right in the centre was first built in the 13th century to protect the city from Mongol mayhem, acquiring the basic appearance it retains today a century later. As Wrocław expanded, Niedźwiadek Tower quickly lost its military importance and became hemmed in by residential buildings - the close proximity of which spared it from being razed along with the rest of the city’s fortifications under Napoleon’s orders in 1807. 75% destroyed during Festung Breslau, the historic tower and its surviving stretch of wall were rebuilt during restoration works in the 1950s and it was then that the weathered stone sculpture of a ‘bear’ (though historians tend to believe it’s a lion) discovered near ul. Łaciarska was placed in the tower’s south-east corner, thus giving the tower its name. Today the interior of the tower hosts Baszta - a hip hangout for coffee, beer, and cheap veggie eats. To find it look in the courtyard just south of Hala Targowa between ul. Piaskowa and ul. Kraińskiego. QG‑5, ul. Kraińskiego 14.

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Old Town Walking Tour

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January â&#x20AC;&#x201C; April 2018

Arrival & Transport

Wrocław’s brand-new bus station (p.14).

Served by its own airport (with a new 3-storey terminal) only 13km from the city centre, a gorgeous, recentlymodernised train station and one of the country’s best highways connecting it to Berlin to the west and Kraków to the east, it’s never been easier to get to or from Wrocław. Several trains depart to Germany and the Czech Republic each day, the city is a hub for Polski Bus, and it also boasts a comprehensive and easy-to-use tram system. In this section you’ll find all you’ll need to know about getting to and getting around Wrocław.

BY TRAIN Wrocław is well-designed for train travel, boasting a gloriously renovated main train station that was at one time the largest in Europe. Fully modernised in 2012 before the Euro Cup, today Wrocław’s Dworzec Główny is arguably the nicest train station in Poland, making a wonderful impression on all those who arrive via the rails. Located about 1.5km south of the market square, from here it is possible to catch quick domestic connections to Kraków (3.5hrs), Warsaw (4hrs), and Poznań (2.5hrs), but international destinations like Berlin and Prague usually require a changing of trains. Miłej podróży! WROCŁAW MAIN TRAIN STATION The beneficiary of a massive modernisation project, Wrocław’s main train station has never looked better. Completed in 1857, this grandiose Neo-Gothic building, with its decadent exterior of turrets and crenellations, looks more like a storybook palace than a modern transportation hub. Just south of the Old Town, Wrocław Główny is 12 Wrocław In Your Pocket

preceded by a public square dotted with benches and two playful fountains flanking the front entrance. Inside, all the elegant architectural details of the original design have been brought back to life, while new digital displays give you all the arrival and departure info you need. Modernised to be completely handicap accessible, there are even handy conveyors to put your luggage on if you chose the stairs. Other amenities include 24-hour ticket windows, automated ticket machines inside and out, an information desk (open 08:00 - 20:00), lockers and a left luggage service, ATMs (bankomat), currency exchange offices (kantor), comfortable waiting rooms, and a plethora of shops, restaurants, and cafes. Overall it adds up to the most convenient, comfortable, and easy to navigate train station in Poland. Visit the Polish railways website at rozklad.pkp.pl – which has limited but effective English language functionality – to check the departure times ahead of travelling, and the large digital display board in the station for the number of the platform (peron). As for getting into town, you are basically in it, with most of the city’s hotels and hostels within 20mins walking distance. You can take a tram two stops north to Galeria Dominikańska to get a bit closer to the market square (head west from there), or hop in one of the taxis waiting of front of both station entrances.QG‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 105, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www. rozklad.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00. iyp.me/wroclaw

Arrival & Transport BY PLANE WROCŁAW AIRPORT Wrocław’s modern airport does a fine job of ushering people in and out of the city. Just 13km west of the city centre, you should be through passport control and baggage claim rather quickly, at which stage you will probably start thinking about local cash. We recommend using an ATM (‘bankomat’) as the airport’s currency exchange desk offers what we might politely call ‘NOT the best exchange rates in town.’ At the airport you’ll also find press stores, tourist and airport information desks, a restaurant, bars, and a coffee shop. At the moment the most sensible way to get to the centre appears to be via the WRO Airport Express shuttle bus, which runs every 50 minutes or so (with a break between 01:00 and 4:10) and will take you to the main train station with just one stop at Plac Grunwaldzki (K-5) on the way. The journey time is 30mins and the 10zł ticket can be purchased directly from the driver (cash or card) or at the 24h International Travel Desk. Alternatively, save a few złoty and go via bus 106, which runs roughly every 20mins between 05:32 and 23:34 from the airport to the main train station (Dworcowa stop, G-8), with central stops also at Pl. Orląt Lwowskich (C-5/6) and Renoma (E/F-7). Night bus 206 departs the airport for the centre at 00:06, 00:36, 02:06, 03:36 (change to bus 241 in the direction Osiedle Sobieskiego at Nowy Dwór stop - you have to cross the street - and get off at Dworzec Główny or Galeria Dominikańska, G-6), and 04:36 (change to bus 149 in the direction Pl. Grunwaldzki at Nowy Dwór, same side of the street, and get off at Pl. Orląt Lwowskich or Renoma). However, the bus schedule is subject to change, so make it easy for yourself by using the website jakdojade.pl to plan your trip. Bus tickets cost 3.40zl during the day, 3.60zł at night, and can be bought from the press store inside the terminal building or from the machine next to the bus stop. The journey takes 30-40mins.

If you prefer to go directly to your hotel doorstep, you can jump into one of the taxis sitting outside the terminal and expect a 20min ride to the centre. Pick-ups are restricted to three vetted firms (but others are waiting nearby): EcoCar (tel. 12 345 67 89), Taxi Plus (tel. 601 70 07 53) and Partner Taxi (tel. 71 196 27). The tariffs are similar, but Partner Taxi seem to have the best rates: about 50zł weekdays, 70zł weekends. For live arrival and departure information call the number given or visit the airport’s excellent website.Qul. Graniczna 190 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 358 14 10, www.airport.wroclaw.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

January – April 2018

Arrival & Transport BY BUS

BY CAR

A stop on the Eurolines international coach network, Wrocław is also a hub for Polski Bus (polskibus.com), with regular connections to Kraków, Prague, Łódź, and Warsaw.

Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic, and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads, and God speed.

WROCŁAW BUS STATION Finally, after years of reliving the Eastern European ‘wild wild 90’s’ at the temporary bus station down the road, visitors to Wrocław can arrive at a simple but sleek underground terminal meeting all 21st century standards. Those who remember the previous iteration of the station, described by us as ‘grim and uncouth’ and ‘an unofficial day care centre for drunks and lunatics,’ and dubbed by one of our readers as ‘the cesspool of Wrocław,’ can rest assured that the new dworzec is nothing like that; it’s clean, organised, handicappedaccessible, and you’ll find functioning departure & arrival displays, bus schedules, lifts, and lockers within easy reach. Ticket windows are open from 6:00 until 22:00, but the International Travel Desk is open 24/7 and will sell domestic and international tickets to you during the night hours; keep in mind that for most domestic routes you can simply purchase your ticket from the bus driver (Polskibus buses are a notable exception). Best of all, the nearest exit spits you out directly opposite the back entrance of the main train station, making for a nice, functional transportation hub. Of course, no 21st century train or bus station in Poland can be complete without a shopping centre attempting to gobble it up, and this one is no different; you’ll find the station encased in Wrocław’s newest shopping behemoth, Wroclavia. This situation is not without its advantages, since the upstairs food court is a welcome step-up from the shady eateries offered by the main train station (and is a heck of a lot closer than city centre, convenient for travellers waiting for a connection). However, one major thing detracts from viewing the mall’s presence as benign: travellers are essentially forced to walk through it to get to the ‘Dworzec Autobusowy’ tram/bus stop on ul. Borowska, from which public transportation departs towards the old town; a bit of a jerk move, if you ask us. Once you’ve fought off the shopping temptations and made it to the stop, getting to city centre is easy: tram 15, running every 10 minutes or so, will take you to the ‘Rynek’ stop, as will bus K. During the night, buses 245 and 247 run about once per 20 minutes, and you can also catch buses 243 and 253 leaving from a second ‘Dworzec Autobusowy’ stop between the bus station and the train station (ul. Sucha). Confusing, we know - to make it easier, you can use the wroclaw. jakdojade.pl website or jakdojade app to plan your journey. All in all, you should have no trouble getting to city centre even during the dead of night.Qul. Sucha 1/11. U 14 Wrocław In Your Pocket

The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways, and 140km/ hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker, and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk, Australia and America) will find their licences technically invalid (though this has never been a problem for anyone we know). One of the only major highways in the country, the A4 connects Wrocław with Berlin (via Legnica) and Kraków (via Opole and Katowice). Much of Wrocław’s centre is pedestrianised, and one-way and permit-only streets only help to make driving in the centre an absolute nightmare. Poor planning and limited traffic patterns mean congestion is a major, major problem as well; call a cab and it might take as much as twenty minutes to get to you, though it’s only a few blocks away. As such, we suggest you ditch your vehicle at the first opportunity, which raises the question of where to put it. Parking lots are marked on the map in the back of our print guide, and free parking is basically non-existent, though some hotels have limited parking spaces; check when booking your room. For street parking you’ll easily recognise the universal large blue ‘P’ sign, but be aware that a blue circle with a red ‘X’ over it means ‘No Parking’ (not sure which universe that sign is from). Pay via the automated ticket machines; in the city centre it’s 3zł for the first hour, 3.60zł for the second hour, and 4.30zł for the third. Thereafter you’ll be forking out 3 zeds an hour. 24HR PARKING Monitored parking for cars and buses near the Racławice Panorama.QH‑5, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 728 97 90 70. MARBER GUARDED PARKING A six-level parking garage with about 250 spaces near Arkady Wrocławskie shopping mall, not far from the train station.QD‑8, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 5/7. iyp.me/wroclaw

Arrival & Transport PUBLIC TRANSPORT Wrocław’s public transport system is easy to use and fairly extensive, with 120 bus lines and 23 tram lines. You’ll rarely need trams or buses to get around the Old Town, but many affordable hotels and some sights (like Centennial Hall) are located outside the centre. Major hubs for trams and buses include the main train station (G-8), Pl. Dominikański (G-5), and Pl. Jana Pawła II (D-5). Buses and trams run roughly from 04:00 to 24:00, with night buses running less frequently after that. Tourists should have no trouble using the English option on the ticket machines now stationed at most transit stops and on all trams and buses. Note, however, that while ticket machines at transit stops accept coins and cash, those on board trams and buses only take plastic. A single fare ticket is 3zł, but be aware that night buses cost 3.20zł. ISIC or other non-Polish student IDs are valid for a significant student discount, but you must carry your ID. Most importantly, remember that tickets are not valid until you stamp them once inside the tram or bus. Sneaky plain-clothed inspectors regularly travel the lines handing out hefty fines to those without valid tickets; being a foreigner will not excuse you, it will only mean you’ll have to pay in cash on the spot. Schedules posted at each stop tend to be right on the money. ‘W dni robocze’ means Monday through Friday and ‘W dni wolne’ means Saturday and Sunday. For route planning, check out the super helpful website www. wroclaw.jakdojade.pl.

TAXIS LUX TAXI Comfortable and reliable, Lux Taxi prides itself on its competitive rates, clean cars and wellmannered drivers, all of whom purportedly speak either English or German. 6-8 person taxi vans are available, and you can conveniently pay by credit card.Qtel. (+48) 71 196 23, www.luxradiotaxi.pl. PARTNER TAXI Operating clean, recognisable cars of the same distinctive make (Volkswagen Passats or Skoda Superbs), from Partner you can request an Englishspeaking driver or carseat for your child, and when you’ve blown all your cash at the bar you can pay with a credit card to get home.Qtel. (+48) 71 196 27, www.partner-taxi.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

TRANSPORT APP JAKDOJADE: Despite the fact that Wrocław’s tram and bus network is easy to use, even for foreigners, we’ll still admit to being a bit put off from using it at first; that is until we discovered the veritable skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the wroclaw.jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app for your smartphone. The former is a great tool for advance planning, but the app is more practical for figuring out how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town and away from your computer. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically) and destination, or pin the locations on a map; select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. Finished at the museum and want to head back to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop, and even tell you which ticket to buy. It’s brilliant and absolutely worth making room on your phone for.

CAR RENTAL AVIS Reliable, internationally trusted and with solid customer service, Avis offers a range of vehicles from sedans to minivans. They also have a desk at the airport, but you must arrange in advance to pick up or drop off a car there.QE‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 49-57 (Scandic Hotel), tel. (+48) 693 56 02 89, www.avis.pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00; Sat 08:00 12:00; Sun open by prior arrangement. VOZILLA Now you can be environmentally friendly while cruising around in your holiday rental car - Vozilla is Wrocław’s first electric car sharing company! Available since November 2017, Vozilla’s fleet now comprises some 200 Nissan Leafs (Leaves?) and 10 electric vans. To try out your own, download the Vozilla app and register in the system, or go through the vozilla.pl website; you will receive information about vehicles available in your area. No keys are required, the app will do its techie magic. The car rentals are short-term; after you’ve reached your destination, park your car anywhere legal, and Vozilla employees will take care of the rest. Major advantages include the ability to park for free at Wrocław Airport’s VIP parking lot (steps away from the terminal), utilise 200 Vozilla-only parking spaces around the city (look for green paint), and drive in bus lanes. And, of course, you get to pat yourself on the back for not contributing to the city’s air pollution. Win!Qwww. vozilla.pl. 1zł per minute, or 0.10zł while stopped. January – April 2018

Basic History Wrocław has always been the dominant capital of Silesia, a region whose story begins with the establishment of a stronghold along the Amber Road and Via Regia trading routes on what is today Ostrów Tumski (p.64) by the Slavic Ślężanie tribe in the 8th century. Absorbed into Czech Bohemia, the expanding fortress was first recorded in the 10th century under the name ‘Vratislavia,’ thought to be derived from the name of the Bohemian duke Vratislav I. In 990, however, the Piast duke Mieszko I conquered the region and by 1000AD the city had expanded to 1,000 inhabitants, prompting Polish king Bolesław I to establish Silesia’s first bishopric on the site of today’s Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (p.66). Over the next century, religious and political conflict saw the region pass back forth between Poland and Bohemia numerous times, before finding some stability under the Silesian Piast dynasty who ruled the area during the so called ‘Age of Fragmentation’ (1138-1320) when Poland was divided into autonomous principalities. A Mongol raid in 1241 devastated the city, but it was rebuilt under Magdeburg Law with city planners expanding it to incorporate many of the outlying settlements, shifting the city centre away from Ostrów Tumski (which became the city’s religious centre) to the other side of the river, building a moat and defensive walls around it, and laying out the market square (p.7) as it appears to this day. Settlers flocked to the city, and ethnic Germans soon became the most dominant demographic. The Piast line petered out in 1335 when Duke Henryk VI died without an heir and earlier treaties dictated the transfer of the region to Bohemian rule once again. Under the Luxemburg dynasty the city generally prospered, but the dominance of the merchant class, which controlled the Town Council, lead to strife with the church and lower classes resulting in outright revolt in 1418 when guildsmen stormed the Town Hall and beheaded the mayor. Printing with movable type began in 1475, with many variations of the city’s name appearing, including Wretslav, Wratislav, Prezzla, Presslay, and Bresslau. By 1526 - when Bohemian King Louis Jagiellon’s death ended prolonged fighting over Bohemian succession and transferred the city to the Austrian Habsburg dynasty - the Reformation had reached the Silesian capital and Protestantism had become the dominant religion. During the Thirty Years War (1618-48), the city fought to maintain its Protestantism, and though occupied, eluded physical destruction, emerging from the conflict as one of the only Silesian cities to remain Protestant under Habsburg rule. However plague and war had taken their toll on the population, cutting it in half. During the Counterreformation, many Catholic orders were encouraged by the emperor to settle in Silesia’s capital, including the Jesuits who founded the Wrocław Jesuit Academy in 1702, which would later grow into today’s Wrocław University (p.9). 16 Wrocław In Your Pocket

During the War of Austrian Succession, the Kingdom of Prussia laid claim to much of Silesia and Prussian troops entered what was then known as ‘Breslau’ without a conflict in 1741. Though heavily taxed and having lost the self-rule the city had enjoyed since the Middle Ages, Protestants could now express their faith freely in the new kingdom and Prussian authorities allowed for the establishment of a Jewish community. After the demise of the Holy Roman Empire, Breslau capitulated to Napoleon’s army in 1807; led by King Frederick III of Prussia - who lived in Breslau - the city was the centre of the liberation movement against Napoleonic rule. The tearing down of Breslau’s defensive fortifications by the French allowed the city to begin expanding and state reforms helped it prosper in the 19th century as it grew into a major administrative, ecclesiastical, military, industrial and science centre. Over the course of the century the population increased 8-fold (including the third largest Jewish population in Germany) and Breslau grew into the second largest city in Prussia; when the German Empire was consolidated in 1871, Breslau entered as the third largest city after Berlin and Hamburg. The construction of the Centennial Hall (p.68) in 1913 perhaps best represents the ambition and achievement of this part of the city’s history. By being behind the frontlines of WWI, Breslau avoided damage and was even able to recover quickly from the economic impoverishment that came with the end of the conflict. In 1930 it was chosen to host the ‘Deutsche Kampfspiele’ - a showcase of German athletics after Germany was banned from the Olympic Games. The Nazi Party developed one of its largest support bases in Breslau, which played a large role in voting them to power in 1933. In 1938 state-organised persecution against the city’s minorities, particularly Poles and Jews, began in earnest and those who did not escape were killed or sent to the network of concentration and forced labour camps set up around Breslau, where many would die later. Safely removed from the frontlines of WWII, Breslau became a haven for refugees and its population swelled to close to one million. In August 1944, with the Soviet Army approaching, the city was declared ‘Festung Breslau’ - a closed fortress to be held at all costs. When Nazi Commander Karl Hanke lifted a ban on the evacuation of civilians in January 1945 it was too late: railway connections had been destroyed or were overcrowded and tens of thousands froze to death in minus 20 degree ice storms. Some 200,000 civilians remained in the city as the Soviet siege began in February; the Siege of Breslau lasted 82 days before capitulation occurred on May 6th, 1945. It was one of the last German cities to fall, outlasting Berlin by four days and the war in Europe officially ended only two days after Breslau’s defeat. 50% of the Old Town was in ruin and the western and southern suburbs were 90% obliterated. Tens of thousands had died defending it. Under the terms of the Potsdam Conference, Lower Silesia passed to Poland and its largest city became known as ‘Wrocław.’ Poles began arriving immediately as forced deportations from Eastern Polish lands annexed by the iyp.me/wroclaw

Basic History HISTORICAL TIMELINE

The flood of 1997.

Photo by Piotr Hawałej

Soviet Union and the forced expulsion of Wrocław’s German population took place simultaneously, leading to a huge influx of Eastern Poles into Wrocław, particularly from Lwów (now Lviv, Ukraine); Polish cultural treasures from Lwów came with them including the Fredo monument on the market square, the Racławice Panorama painting (p.56) and the collection of the Ossolineum library (p.10). A long period of reconstruction followed, characterised equally by Polonisation and deGermanisation; all German monuments and inscriptions were removed and Wrocław’s non-Jewish cemeteries were destroyed. At the same time Sovietisation was also beginning: businesses were nationalised, Polish political and religious leaders were imprisoned and following rigged elections the full communist takeover of Poland was complete by 1948. The Communist authorities took full credit for restoring Lower Silesia and boasted of their success rebuilding the city and incorporating it into the Soviet system; this was typified by Wrocław’s hosting of the propaganda parade known as the Recovered Territories Exhibition in 1948. By the late 1950s Wrocław had returned to its former population level and established itself as one of Poland’s main urban, economic, cultural and academic centres despite being hamstrung by the political and economic conditions of the People’s Republic of Poland. In August of 1980, Wrocław’s workers joined the general strike called by Gdańsk’s Solidarity Trade Union led by Lech Wałęsa. Martial law went into effect from 1981 to 1983, and Wrocław remained a centre of anti-Communist opposition throughout the 80s until Communism crumbled in 1989 and Wałęsa became Poland’s first freely elected president since WWII. In 1990, Wrocław’s first post Communist city council restored the city’s historical coat of arms, symbolising the city’s acceptance of its entire history (even the German bits). In July 1997 the city sustained the worst flooding in post-war Central Europe when the Odra River overflowed its banks leaving one third of the city under water. Poland joined the European Union in 2004 and Wrocław has emerged as one of the country’s leading cities, attracting significant foreign investment. The city was chosen to host matches during the 2012 European Football Championships and the 2017 World Games and was the 2016 ‘European Capital of Culture’. iyp.me/polandblog

990: Piast Duke Mieszko I seizes Silesia, incorporating it into Poland 1000: A bishopric is established on Ostrów Tumski 1163: The city becomes capital of the Duchy of Silesia 1241: Mongols devastate the city, the market square is laid out, Germans become the dominant ethnic group 1335: Silesia is incorporated into the Kingdom of Bohemia 1418: The city’s guilds revolt, beheading the mayor and six members of City Council 1453: John of Capistrano leads inquisition against Jewish population who are executed or forced to convert to Christianity 1526: The Austrian Habsburg dynasty absorbs Bohemia, including Silesia 1702: Founding of the Jesuit Academy, today’s Wrocław University 1741: Breslau becomes part of Prussia 1807: Napoleon captures the city and its medieval defences are destroyed 1871: Unification of the German Empire; Breslau enters as its third most prominent city 1913: The Centennial Hall (Hala Stulecia) is built 1933: The Nazis comes to power in Germany 1938: Kristallnacht - Jewish synagogues torched, homes looted and burned 1944: Festung Breslau - the city is declared a closed fortress and prepares for Soviet bombardment 1945: Breslau capitulates on May 6th, WWII ends and Lower Silesia becomes part of Poland 1947: Communists consolidate power after rigged elections 1948: Wrocław hosts the Recovered Territories Exhibition 1980: The Solidarity trade union initiates strikes across Poland 1981: The Polish military imposes Martial Law. Solidarity activists are arrested and interned 1983: Martial Law lifted 1989: First free post-war elections in PL 1997: The Odra and Oława rivers overflow flooding a third of downtown Wrocław 1999: Poland joins NATO 2004: Poland joins the EU 2010: President Lech Kaczyński and 95 other Polish delegates die in a plane crash near Smoleńsk, Russia 2012: Wrocław hosts the Euro 2012 Football Championships 2016: Wrocław is ‘European Capital of Culture’ January – April 2018

What’s On

Photograph by Linda Parys / mia Art Gallery / Hermansdorfer Collection

ART GALLERIES MIA ART GALLERY Mia is a bright and modern art gallery on Wrocław’s cultural map thanks to the “All That Art!” Foundation. The exhibitions here are constantly changing, with a new one opening every 2-3 weeks. The gallery also aims to connect art and business by hosting special lectures, training courses, and presentations.QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 61-62, tel. (+48) 601 30 22 55, www.miaartgallery.com. Open 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.

that also shares this special date—St. Trifon Zarezan, who just so happens to be Bulgaria’s patron saint of vine-growers and winemakers. Thanks to the Ethno Jazz Festival, we can get a taste of these related Bulgarian festivities at the Stara Piwnica. The evening will feature performances with song and dance by the Sarakina Balkan Band, along with a tasting of various Bulgarian wines as well as traditional dishes and appetisers. In terms of musical performance, you can expect to hear a lot of Balkan elements mixed in with folk, jazz, and world music.QTickets 30/35zł, www.ethnojazz.pl.

EVENTS BY DATE

12.02 » ETHNO JAZZ FESTIVAL: DAVID KRAKAUER & KATHLEEN TAGG

06.02 » PASIÓN DE BUENA VISTA

Cuban artists Pasión de Buena Vista are returning with their signature brand of peppy Caribbean music that brings a blast of island warmth to Poz. The atmosphere is like a breezy Havana club complete with saucy dancers and Latin rhythms—it’s almost more like a vacation to Cuba than just a concert.QTickets 139-189zł available at www.ebilet.pl, www.eventim.pl, www.makroconcert.com/pl.

10.02 » ETHNO JAZZ FESTIVAL: SARAKINA BALKAN BAND | ST. TRIFON ZAREZAN (AKA BULGARIAN WINE)

It turns out our Bulgarian friends have been keeping a very pertinent holiday somewhat hidden from us. While many of us know February as the month dominated by the overcommercialised St. Valentine’s Day, there’s another saint 18 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Grammy-nominated American clarinettist David Krakauer and South African-born pianist, composer and producer Kathleen Tagg have been performing together since 2012, and are touching down in Wrocław to perform their latest genre-bending project Breath & Hammer. Easily considered one of the greatest clarinettists on the planet, Krakauer is a talented genre-weaver, known for his seamless transitions between jazz, modern klezmer and formal classical music. He’s especially known for his style, interchanging elements of traditional Jewish music mixed with elements of Orthodox jazz. Tagg also has a reputation that precedes her; she’s renowned for her chiselled musical technique and intuitive sense of musicality. This duo no doubt makes for a perfect fit as part of the Ethno Jazz Festival programme. QG‑5, Stary Klasztor, ul. Purkyniego 1, tel. (+48) 519 89 47 69, Tickets 40-100zł, www.ethnojazz.pl. iyp.me/wroclaw

What’s On 18.02 » ETHNO JAZZ FESTIVAL: ANA MOURA

The “Princess of Fado” is touching down in Wrocław this year, and bringing her latest album Moura along with her. As the moniker suggests, Moura is one of the biggest names in fado music in the world—a genre which is known as the apple in Portugal’s eye. Her talent and fan base, however, reach far beyond the borders of Portugal and fado music—especially since her collaboration with The Rolling Stones saxophonist Tim Ries. Despite her rather intimidating level of skill and the reputation it has gained her, Moura maintains a level of elegance and intimacy in her performances; combined with her stunning voice and style, any concert of hers will surely make for a memorable experience.QG‑5, Stary Klasztor, ul. Purkyniego 1, tel. (+48) 519 89 47 69, Tickets 70-150zł, www.ethnojazz.pl.

13.03 » MOSCOW CITY BALLET: ROMEO AND JULIET

Many of us are undoubtedly familiar with Shakespeare’s play and Sergei Prokofiev’s ballet. What we aren’t familiar with, however, is choreographer Krzysztof Pastor’s unique take on the work, updated for the capricious and rapid developments of the 20th century. Pastor brings Romeo & Juliet out of 1300s Verona and into 1900s Rome, but time and setting only serve as backdrops to important and difficult issues of politics, including war, terror, and dictatorship. Doomed love has never been more complicated.QE‑6, National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolności 1, tel. (+48) 71 715 97 96, Tickets 125-175zł, www.makroconcert.com/pl.

22.03 » ETHNO JAZZ FESTIVAL: STANISŁAW SOYKA & BUBA KUYATEH

The Ethno Jazz Festival brings us the chance to check out these two musicians in a pre-premiere concert before they get started with recording their upcoming album. Violinist, pianist, jazz vocalist and composer Stanisław Soyka has unpredictability in music down to an art— balancing originality and consistently delivering fresh and new sounds, his penchant for innovation and emphasis on the element of surprise in music have become his signature, and make him recognisable within a few beats of any of his tracks. When it comes to playing the kora, few can compete with Buba Kuyateh’s level of mastery. Of course, combined with singing and dancing, watching him perform is an experience in and of itself.QG‑5, Stary Klasztor, ul. Purkyniego 1, tel. (+48) 519 89 47 69, Tickets 40-100zł, www.ethnojazz.pl.

06.04 » FILM MUSIC IN CONCERT: 2018 TOUR

What this concert lacks in its history (this year only marks its second edition) it makes up for in its magnitude— featuring big names like Justyna Steczkowska, Kayah, Piotr Cugowski, Kuba Badach, Igor Herbut, Gabriel Fleszar, Sound’n’Grace and the Polish Film Music Orchestra. With even more special effects, more artists, and an even bigger stage, this year’s edition is building upon the great iyp.me/polandblog

12.12.201711.03.2018 National Museum in Wrocław

Chinese People’s Life in the Time of Late Ming Dynasty

Exhibition of the Collection from Capital Museum of China

January – April 2018

Reklama_MPN_2018_60x185mm_do_In_Your_Pocket_EN_do_DRUKU.pdf 3 2017-12-20 12:05:29

What’s On

31. MuSICA poLoNICA NovA

20–28.04.2018

success that was the first edition. If you’re into music, film, or any combination of the two, then there’s not much more left for us to say other than that this show is a must-see.QN‑6, Centennial Hall & Discovery Centre, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 51 50, Tickets 79-249zł, www.royalconcert.pl.

20.04 - 28.04 » MUSICA POLONICA NOVA | NEW POLISH MUSIC FESTIVAL

Running for 31 years and counting, the Musica Polonica Nova festival is not just a series of shows and concerts; it’s a carefully curated examination of music itself. This year’s theme, #network, is focused on how the structural attachments and systemic connections of the internet affect the arts and our surrounding social behaviours. Aimed particularly at a younger (and yet widely encapsulated) audience, the festival seeks to bring in new, fresh ways of looking at music rather than being defined by a stiff, “connoisseur”-level typically reserved for the elite. The festival balances #online and #offline portions (with the former being streamed and open to viewing by anyone in the world who so desires); and also makes plenty of references to the post-internet trend. Pulling inspiration from our age of remixes, mashups, and covers, the festival will also clash a symphony orchestra with an improvising musician, classic opera with multimedia, traditional music with experimental sounds—with the aim of turning our definition of a concert experience on its head.QE‑6, National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolności 1, tel. (+48) 71 715 97 96, www.nfm.wroclaw.pl/musicapolonica-nova.

24.04 » ETHNO JAZZ FESTIVAL: YASMIN LEVY

CMY

Israeli beauty Yasmin Levy—one of the biggest stars of contemporary world music—returns yet again to Wrocław as part of this year’s Ethno Jazz Festival. This time, she’ll be performing tracks from her latest project, Tango—an ode to classical Argentinian dance and its surrounding aesthetic. Born in Jerusalem, this phenomenal singer-songwriter is of Sephardic descent and sings in the obscure Judeo-Spanish language known as Ladino, performing music in the tradition of Spanish Jewry, incorporating Andalusian flamenco influences and Eastern instruments.QI‑6, Impart, ul. Mazowiecka 17, tel. (+48) 71 712 71 00, Tickets 90200zł, www.wrockfest.pl.

26.04 - 30.04 » JAZZ ON THE ODER

#NETWorK

20 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Ah, jazz festivals—where would Poland be without them? They might be mushrooming all over the place, but Jazz on the Oder stands out among them as one of the oldest and most respected, right up there with Warsaw’s Jazz Jamboree and Kraków’s All Saints’ Day Jazz Festival. In its 53rd edition this year, by now Jazz on the Oder is a welloiled machine and is considered absolutely essential to the Polish music scene. Founded back in the sixties, for a long time this festival provided one of the best shots young musicians had at early fame and recognition. See iyp.me/wroclaw

What’s On the website for the full programme, which is guaranteed to present a careful selection of the most interesting jazz acts and events from all around the world, with special care taken to include nearly every feasible jazz subgenre in existence. In other words, you can’t be 100% sure you know what jazz truly is until you’ve experienced Jazz on the Oder.QI‑6, Impart, ul. Mazowiecka 17, tel. (+48) 71 712 71 00, Ticket prices undecided at press time, www. jazznadodra.pl.

www.pwevents.pl fb.com/agencjapwevents

01.05 10:00 » THANKS JIMI FESTIVAL

Ready to get into the Guinness Book of World Records? The Thanks Jimi Festival is a yearly guitar extravaganza where guitarists from Poland and beyond meet en masse to set (yet another) record in simultaneous guitar playing. The first record was set in 2006 with 1,581 participants and has since been beaten numerous times—most recently in 2016 when 7,356 guys and gals cranked out a massive rendition of “Hey Joe.” In addition to breaking records, however, the event has grown into an all-day music festival of various genres and musical styles, with free concerts split between two stages on the market square and additional events at Stary Klasztor and Centennial Hall. Last year’s festival fell short of breaking the 2016 record with 6,299 guitarists coming out to play, so the pressure is on this year to learn those few simple chords, grab a guitar and make it happen. In 2017, the festival was joined and hosted by over 30 revered international and home-grown artists like Kult, Lady Pank, Illusion, Brodka, Katarzyna Nosowska, O.S.T.R., and Łąki Łan—so this year will probably have an impressive lineup as well.QE‑5, Market Square, Admission free, www.heyjoe.pl.

NULL POSITIV

THE DEVIL

16.03 / centrum koncertowe a2

12.04 / ZAKLĘTE REWIRY

EXHIBITIONS 27.10 - 26.03 » CONCRETE WROCŁAW: A COLLECTION FROM THE LOWER SILESIAN SOCIETY OF FINE ARTS

On display at the Concrete Wrocław exhibition is a collection of selected works from the Lower Silesian Association of Fine Arts (Dolnośląskie Towarzystwo Zachęty Sztuk Pięknych or DTZSP). Since its inauguration in 2004, the association has been hard at work in building a repertoire of contemporary art, paying attention to gathering works which encompass more traditional forms of art, as well as a diverse selection of installations, multimedia works, and archives. The highlighted works in this exhibit offer a contemplation on everyday life, critical thought, and the ways in which we interpret and understand the world around us, with special attention to socio-political aspects of life. Through a range of works encapsulating poetry, linguistics, and conceptual art rooted in painting, drawing, and geometry, the collection references elements of intellectualism mixed with aesthetics—a feature that is characteristic of Wrocław.QWrocław Contemporary Museum, Pl. Strzegomski 2A (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, Tickets 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł, Thu admission free, www.muzeumwspolczesne.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

29.04 / FIRLEJ

15.o6 / CENTRUM KONCERTOWE A2 BILETY: PWEVENTS.PL, TICKETPRO, EVENTIM, EBILET, BILETOMAT.PL

January – April 2018

What’s On 10.11 - 29.01 » FOTOGRAFIA MAGAZINE: 1953–1974

A few years ago Agnieszka Zdziabek made an extraordinary discovery. She accidentally came across a collection of old annual volumes of the Polish magazine Fotografia (Photography), damaged by moisture, time and poor storage conditions. Inside one of the issues, trapped between the pages, a negative was found. Time and aging processes turned these objects into a solid mass. Photographs captured on the negative began to penetrate the visual and textual contents of the magazine, creating a new, unpredictable narrative and quality. This became the starting point for Zdziabek’s artwork entitled Treasure and provided inspiration for the exhibition. For more than 20 years Fotografia magazine simultaneously shaped and commented on the artistic and amateur photographic life in Poland. The collection of the magazines forms a narrative that could be read in a linear way, gradually discovering the subsequent milestones in Polish and global photography, or non-linearly, following individual paths and focusing on selected aims, e.g. to reconstruct the history of technological progress on the basis of texts about equipment and photographic techniques, trace the changing theoretical discourse on photography, focus exclusively on documentary or artistic photography, or use the publication to study social and cultural transformations or even aesthetic canons (by observing the evolution of the magazine’s layout). There are many paths of exploration, but each of them is determined by a certain point of view offered by the magazine and by its physical qualities. This precondition does not limit perception; on the contrary, it is eye-opening, making it possible to see familiar phenomena in a previously unknown light.QWrocław Contemporary Museum, Pl. Strzegomski 2A (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, Tickets 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł, Thu admission free, www.muzeumwspolczesne.pl.

09.12 - 31.10 » SPIRITS OF THE FOREST: INTERACTIVE EXHIBITION

Nothing holds within itself such equal parts of allure and fear—the two polarities on the spectrum of mystery— as a forest. Many of us dare not pass through one after dark; with its unfamiliar sounds, gnarling and winding branches and vines, unmarked and untrodden paths that could lead us just about anywhere, and camouflaging elements and patterns that are engineered to suggest danger in places where there may not be any. Wandering through a forest is at once embarking on a risk into the unknown, and also—a relaxing, spiritually lifting and cleansing experience. As our urban areas expand and forested areas slowly diminish, this exhibit serves as a reminder to feed our need for aesthetics and allow our senses a moment of much-needed downtime. Much like the soothing and awe-inspiring effects of nature, contemporary art also provides us with a welcome

22 Wrocław In Your Pocket

iyp.me/wroclaw

What’s On escape from our urban routines and dwellings—here’s your chance to get them both in one place.QWrocław Contemporary Museum, Pl. Strzegomski 2A (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, Admission free, www.muzeumwspolczesne.pl.

12.12 - 11.03 » LIFE IN CHINA DURING TIMES OF THE LATE MING DYNASTY

If you can’t go to China, China will come to you. This exhibition features over 100 top-class works brought over to Poland for the first time from the Capital Museum of China—which just so happens to be one of the biggest museums and cultural institutions in Beijing. Through paintings, sacral sculptures, jade objects, and porcelain artefacts, this exhibition provides a look at the life and times of the late Ming Dynasty, an era which is also considered the Chinese Renaissance. As we can imagine, the 16th century was not influenced by the uniting powers of globalization as we have come to accept as mere afterthoughts today—as such, the collective narratives of various nations often took differing directions. While art and science accompanied by economic growth and commercial revival were in full bloom in Europe, the economic and cultural landscapes were also developing in East Asia, but the ways in which they did looked completely different. Divided into three parts, this exhibit explores the cultural, religious and economic forces that drove these successive changes through everyday conditions of life in China.QI‑5, National Museum, Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 51 50, Admission 10/5zł, www.mnwr.art.pl.

13.10 - 05.02 » DICE, CLOUDS, AND MOLECULES: JAROSŁAW GRULKOWSKI’S DRAWINGS

Born in 1983, Grulkowski graduated from the Academy of Fine Arts in Wrocław where he continues to work as an assistant painter. His preferred medium of expression, however, is drawing—and he isn’t afraid to get his fingers dirty. He prefers to work directly with the medium, so he often opts out of using aids like charcoal holders in favour of freely smudging black pigment into Fabriano paper, introducing the element of touch into the forefront of his work. As a result, he works on paper much like a sculptor works with clay; fearless in movement and with a mastered hand in precision, subtlety, and finesse. The Dice, Clouds, and Molecules exhibition is a collection of a few series of his works, focusing on optical illusions, textures, and the mysterious inner workings of matter, molecules, substances, and unknown tissues. Some of the included pieces depicting dots, drops, and spheres reference an aesthetic similar to the Braille alphabet. All in all, his work evokes a sense of beauty through the unknown, secretive, hard-to-describe and elusive elements of our observed world. If you’re interested in the artist, check out his impressive repertoire of achievements.QWrocław Contemporary Museum, Pl. Strzegomski 2A (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, Tickets 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł, Thu admission free, www.muzeumwspolczesne.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

January – April 2018

Cafés

Enjoying sweet treats at Chimney Cake Bakery.

AMORINIO.PL This colourful Italian cafe offers enough sundaes, shakes, and other sweet treats to make all the teeth of a shark fall out in ecstasy. Seriously, the sheer variety of desserts available here is awe-inspiring and makes deciding a challenging conundrum (don’t worry, there’s no incorrect choice). The modern design is eclectic, but smart, with exposed bricks, wallpaper disguised as tile mosaic, and a subtle angel theme that gets less so when applied to the cute teenage girls in vintage red dresses working here, while the clientele is largely their peers and grandmothers. A great place to take the kids; if you’ve overdone the sweets there is also a range of savoury quiches, crepes, and breakfast options.QF‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 1-2, tel. (+48) 71 346 29 44, www.amorinio.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. T6GSW BEMA CAFE Probably the nicest cafe north of the Odra, we aren’t the only ones gushing about Bema Cafe, which was nominated for the ‘Ale Lokale 2013’ award. A rather industrial interior design of coarse concrete and bare bulbs is offset by large display cases and plenty of natural light, and the terrace boasts perhaps the only parasols in town devoid of corporate emblems. Open early for breakfast (served all day!) and offering plenty of yummy sweets and lunch eats, absolutely delicious fresh juices and amazing coffee drinks prepared with a variety of alternative brewing techniques, we find ourselves using this hip, neighbourhood cafe so often as an office, that it’s actually starting to feel more like... well, home. Heartily recommended.QG‑3, ul. Drobnera 38, tel. (+48) 71 322 02 12, www.bemacafe.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. 6UGSW 24 Wrocław In Your Pocket

BUŁKA Z MASŁEM This fantastic venue succeeds at being a casual restaurant, trendy cafe, and after-hours hangout all at the same time, thus making it a trick for us to categorise, but a joy to drop by any time of day. In addition to daily specials, the simple, laminated menu offers affordable eats: all day breakfast, burgers, and salads, plus a concise list of cocktails, shakes, and lemonades served in classic milk and jam jars. Achieving that rare feat of mass appeal and hipster approval, Bułka z Masłem makes the shortlist of must-visit Wroc venues whether you want a coffee, beer, or bite to eat.QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 8A, tel. (+48) 503 47 62 41. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. 6GSW CENTRAL CAFE Around the corner from Pasaż Niepolda and open early - here’s a good place to start your day. This Americanstyle bakery cafe offers a blackboard menu (in Polish and English) with plenty of familiar breakfast options, including pancakes with maple syrup, bagels and cream cheese, yoghurt with granola and honey, oatmeal loaded with yummy toppings, pastries, cupcakes, quiche, pastrami, and more. Of course, there’s coffee and smoothies as well, plus plenty of space to park it and observe the cute clientele enjoying their oatmeal until your eyes are sufficiently wide enough to take your sightseeing back into town. The spacious, highceilinged, classic interior also serves as a great place to work or discuss business.QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 10, tel. (+48) 71 794 96 23, www.centralcafe.pl. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. T6UGSW iyp.me/wroclaw

Cafés CHIMNEY CAKE BAKERY This sweet treat is native to the Hungarian-speaking regions of Romania, but these local Polish lads have perfected it, while putting their own twist on things. If you’re not familiar with chimney cakes, it consists of a yeast dough thinly rolled and wrapped in a spiral around a spit, then rolled in sugar and basted in butter while baking. At Chimney Cake Bakery they make them right in front of you and offer 10 different toppings and fillings, including gingerbread and plum jam, nutella, peanut butter and their most innovative creation - ice cream (in summer) or whipped cream (in winter) in a chimney cake cone. Enjoy this hot, steamy (hence the name) treat for 8-13zł.QF‑5, ul. Oławska 4, tel. (+48) 71 302 75 22. Open 11:00 - 21:00. 6GS COCOFLI A strained acronym for coexistence, cooperation, friendship, love and identity, Cocofli has become a bit of a cultural meeting place with an antiquated intellectual aesthetic thanks to a mish-mash of furnishings including a wall-length bookshelf, old telephone switchboard, and unique decorative art. Here they’re hip to all the alternative coffee brewing techniques and offer rice, soy, or almond milk, or you enjoy a glass of wine or a local microbrew. QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 756 99 90. Open 10:00 - 24:00. T6GSW NEW ETNO CAFE Etno Cafe is a Wrocław institution, bravely fending off competition from foreign chains like Starbucks, Costa, and Green Cafe Nero while continuing to open new locations around the city. Founded by Ethiopian ecotoxicology PhD student Natnael Tesfaye Hamda and his Polish friends, the Etno brand began as a coffee importer and roaster, sourcing beans straight from Ethiopia. Their first cafe opened in 2015 inside the tiny cult venue Okrąglak, a somewhat mysterious and decidedly cylindrical pre-WWII building on Pl. Kościuszki. A year later the cafe got to star in a slightly cringy music video for C-BooL’s song Never Go Away, and meanwhile Etno were busy branching out into other locations. As of late 2017, they have put down roots in five Polish cities; in Wrocław, find them at the OVO building (ul. Podwale 83, H-6), near the main train station (ul. Piłsudskiego 101, F-8), and in the Pasaż Grunwaldzki (plac Grunwaldzki 22, K-4) and Wroclavia (ul. Sucha 1, F-9) shopping malls.QE‑7, Okrąglak, Pl. Kościuszki, www. etnocafe.pl. GSW VINYL CAFE This groovy little cafe is an obvious labour of love, and old school audiophiles will literally feel right at home with the living room arrangement around the hi-fi record player. Full of cosy armchairs, crates of vinyl LPs and shelves of books, come in, pick out a 45, curl up with a coffee or beer and a book and you’ve got yourself the perfect afternoon. The sound system is state-of-the-art, their extensive record collection ranges from Dizzy Gillespie to Devendra Banhart, iyp.me/polandblog

COFFEE ICE CREAM CAKES Wrocław ul. Wita Stwosza 1-2 www.amorinio.pl

and bonus points for the policy of making sure a side plays all the way to the end before it gets changed. The coffee comes in big mugs, sweets are on hand, there’s a strong selection of Czech beers, wine and cider, and you can also buy and trade records here. A second home to many.QF‑5, ul. Kotlarska 35-36/1A, tel. (+48) 508 26 02 88. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. T6UGSW

JUICE & SHAKES FRANKIE’S Frankie’s takes a trend you’d expect to be popular with kids too young to drink booze (wait, does such an age exist in PL?) and health-conscious students on their way home from yoga class and somehow makes it a fashionable hangout for hip musicians and metrosexuals with great hair. Try fresh-squeezed juices and shakes combining all kinds of raw ingredients from broccoli and carrot to ginger and elderberry inside a stylish, modern interior full of fashion and culture magazines, indie rock music, and a long marble bar with wall-length windows overlooking the street. One of their yummy sandwiches and their special ‘hangover’ juice formula is a smart way to sure yourself up after a long night, and get ready for the one ahead. Other locations in the Renoma (ul. Świdnicka 40), Wroclavia (ul. Sucha 1), and Magnolia Park (ul. Legnicka 58) shopping malls.QF‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 57, tel. (+48) 796 71 95 52, www.frankies.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. 6GSW January – April 2018

Restaurants

Pinto Per-Peri (p.43)

The diversity and quality of restaurants in Wrocław is ever improving - as is the quality of service - and the city’s respectable number of international restaurants reflects its status as a thriving urban centre. While In Your Pocket once tried to list every eatery in the city centre, the expansion of the market and sheer redundancy of many restaurants now make that pursuit impractical. In our dining section you’ll find reviews of the most noteworthy and high-profile establishments in town, from those wellhidden places you shouldn’t miss, to prime locations you should swerve. While our print guide carries a large selection of restaurants, if you can’t find it here you’ll most certainly find it on our website (wrocław.inyourpocket. com), where we list dozens more reviews and encourage you to leave your own comments about the places you’ve visited. All IYP reviews are completely subjective, unsolicited and updated regularly to ensure accuracy at press time. The figures we quote in brackets represent the least and most expensive main courses on the menu. The hours we list are not necessarily the opening hours, but rather the times between which you can expect the chef to be working. Below are some specific recommendations depending on what you might be looking for. Smacznego! SPLURGE For fine dining in an unforgettable location head to the Monopol’s rooftop Restauracja Acquario (p.34); Le Bistrot Parisien (p.29), Brasserie 27 (p.30), and Sukiennice 7 (p.35) are the city’s best-of (in our esteem, anyway). 26 Wrocław In Your Pocket

CHEAP Wrocław is full of cheap eats. With street food on the rise, we recommend places like zjemBAO (p.44), Pasibus (p.44), and Panczo (p.39). The city’s numerous vegetarian eateries (p.44) are known for their low prices, and if it’s Polish you’re after, head to Chatka Przy Jatkach (p.40) or Konspira (p.41). LADS Bernard (p.30) offers litre steins of Czech beer and plates piled high with hot snacks for sharing, while the busty maidens of the Bierhalle brewery (p.50) along with costumed gents of Pod Fredrą (p.42) will keep you plied with beer and brats until you burst your buttons. COUPLES See our picks under ‘Splurge,’ all of which will impress with their high quality food, go for dinner and a concert at Vertigo (p.35), or wine and dine on the water in OK Wine Bar (p.32). FAMILIES Kids get a kick out of dining on the water in Barka Tumska (p.30) and Wratislavia (p.34). Alternatively, have fun watching them search for the ‘secret room’ in Konspira (p.41). For further options look for the Child-friendly symbol T at the end of each listing. SPECIAL DIET Vegans have it good in Wrocław, just see our Vegetarian section (p.44). Vega (p.45) is right on the market square, and fine gluten-free dining can be found in La Maddalena (p.38). iyp.me/wroclaw

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY G No smoking

T Child-friendly

6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

S Take away

U Facilities for the disabled

V Home delivery

X Smoking room available

E Live music

W Wi-fi connection

I Fireplace

o Year-Round Garden

AMERICAN BLT & TAPS This upscale American-inspired (free ketchup without asking! large sodas!) sandwich and salad bar deftly balances a dodgy dive-bar location (that’s a good thing) with a sharp, clean interior to great effect. The menu would hardly be inventive if not for the fact that a decent sandwich is a rare thing in this country; as such it’s a revelation. Choose from a wide range of quickly-served variations on the burger and BLT. The pizzas are delicious, the salads served on flatbread are creative, the presentation is top notch and the prices are fair and affordable across the board. Open late, so you’ve got time to get a couple cheeky ones in before stopping by, or just do your drinking here - they now offer craft beer from eight taps.QE‑5, ul. Ruska 58/59, tel. (+48) 71 796 33 44, www.blt.wroclaw.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Thu 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (19-26zł). 6VGSW BUTCHERY & GRILL A semi-casual steak and burger restaurant in the Sukiennice that features red and white chequered tablecloths and open views of the grillmaster at work. The steak menu is limited to about ten tourist-priced cuts imported from various corners of the world, and isn’t nearly as varied as the illustrated diagrams that rather impressively decorate the walls. Wrocław is full of places where you can order a burger these days, and after making a complete mess with one here, we left craving something better.QF‑5, ul. Sukiennice 6, tel. (+48) 71 342 74 62, www.butcheryandgrill.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (18-98zł). T6GW MOABURGER Like most things from New Zealand, Moaburger is very proud, making it clear from the kiwi iconography all over the interior that this is a NZ take on the classic American burger and shake shack. As far as the food goes, they’ve certainly super-sized it: burgers come served on a tray (a plate just wouldn’t do) piled high with the topping of your choice, and you might even consider splitting one with a friend if you have any other meals planned later in the day. Easy to eat and darn enjoyable, though you’ll discover it’s not exactly the cheapest meal out, with a burger, fries, and drink coming in over 30zł.QE‑5, Pl. Solny 10, tel. (+48) 71 330 74 82, www.moaburger.com. Open 11:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (11-31zł). T6GSW iyp.me/polandblog

DECODING THE MENU Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego! (Enjoy your meal!) śniadania breakfast zupa soup przystawki appetisers dania główne main dishes dodatki side dishes ziemniaki potatoes kapusta cabbage ser cheese chleb bread warzywa vegetables owoce fruit mięso meat kurczak chicken wieprzowina pork wołowina beef ryba fish deser dessert ciasto cake lody ice cream napoje drinks kawa coffee piwo beer

TIPPING TRIBULATIONS Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and the payment. Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity). As such, we encourage you to reward good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change. January – April 2018

Restaurants RODEO GRILL STEAK HOUSE Hardly the kitsch cowboy cuisine you might expect from the name, this steakhouse maintains the high standards of Galeria Italiano - Wrocław’s modern restaurant corridor. Burgers are sequestered to only a brief requisite mention at the end of the placemat menu, which is primarily a range of steaks including T-bone, porterhouse, and rib-eye, prepared in the open kitchen in the corner. Our roast beef was commendable, but if you want your meat other than medium rare, make sure you say so (no one asked us). The simple, airy interior is neither too classy nor too casual and has a friendly family atmosphere that keeps its tables as full as its patrons.QF‑5, ul. Więzienna 21 (Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48) 71 343 20 71. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (14-99zł). 6GSW SOCZEWKA A wide and nuanced assortment of delicious gourmet burgers on the market square, including a number of vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options - how often do you get the chance to eat a mac&cheese or ramen burger? There’s also a wide array of mojitos and whisky, and seating opposite the Town Hall or in the sharp interior. When we’re going through cheddar cheese withdrawal, this is our sanatorium; in fact, it’s hard to over-praise this place - it’s just that good.QF‑5, ul. Rynek 20/21, tel. (+48) 516 01 51 65, www.soczewka. wroclaw.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Mon 11:00 - 21:30, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 23:00, Sun 10:30 - 21:30. (23-83zł). TGSW

ASIAN NEW ORIENTUJ SIĘ We wanted to like this place so badly: clean and hip decor, good prices, our favourite Asian eats, lots of patrons wanting to check out the new kid on the block... And yet we ended up leaving thoroughly disappointed. Despite a profusion of positive reviews on Orientuj się’s facebook page, the fried noodles we got were just sad, tasting of oil and chili and nothing else; other diners’ dishes looked equally mediocre. A bad day, perhaps? We might be back to sample the hoisin duck, which appears to be this restaurant’s crowning achievement, but more likely we’ll just head to Osiem Misek or Phathathai instead.QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 14, tel. (+48) 500 65 65 56, www.orientujsie.pl. Open 11:30 - 21:30, Fri 11:30 - 23:30, Sat 13:00 - 23:30, Sun 13:00 - 21:30. (1529zł). T6GSW OSIEM MISEK ‘Eight Bowls’, one of the most successful food trucks in Wro, has acquired a stationary restaurant in which to serve more of its tasty concoctions: lots of ramen and pad thai, plus their signature pulled pork baos, which draw folks from near and far. Unfortunately, with popularity seems to have come a decline in quality and increased wait times, issues which we sincerely hope will iron themselves out soon. QD‑5, ul. Włodkowica 27, www.osiemmisek.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Mon 16:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (1535zł). T6UGSW 28 Wrocław In Your Pocket

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Restaurants AUSTRALIAN NEW EGG CAFE An Australian establishment in Wrocław? We half expected to be greeted by a Paul Hogan-esque character slipping another shrimp on the barbie for us, but - alas - Egg strays far from tired (and inaccurate) Aussie cliches. If anything, it showcases the scale of today’s globalisation, where a trendy brekkie in Melbourne really isn’t that different from one in London or LA. As such, you won’t find kangaroo meat, emu, or even fairy bread here; instead, the menu features trusted faves like smashed avo toast, eggs Bendict, banana bread, and sweet potato fries, while those pining for some true Aussie flavours will be pleased to find vegemite, pavlova, and - occasionally - a Tim Tams cheesecake. Popular with locals and expats alike, Egg comes in a trendy package with glossy food magazines and leafy plants. Oh yeah, the coffee is very good as well. If there’s one thing we can complain about (other than the lack of bush tucker) it’s the small portion sizes, so be prepared to order more.QG‑3, ul. Jedności Narodowej 62/1A, tel. (+48) 573 29 21 87. Open 07:30 17:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 16:00. (8-20zł). T6GSW

FRENCH LE BISTROT PARISIEN One of our local favourites for a long time running, this casual modern bistro openly pays homage to Paris with framed period photography, fine wines, and a lunch menu redolent of dining in the French capital. The food - from the steak in Cognac and pepper sauce to the fresh mussels and crème brûlée - is of exceptional quality across the board, making the relaxed atmosphere all the more refreshing. A perfect place for convincing your company that you have good taste, Le Bistrot is a popular congregation point for ex-pats as well. The staff are very friendly, flirty, and accommodating, and therefore in no way reminiscent of the eating out experiences we’ve had in the real Paris. We’d rather be here.QF‑4, ul. Nożownicza 1D, tel. (+48) 71 341 05 65, www.lebistrotparisien.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (31-57zł). TGSW

INDIAN MASALA INDIAN RESTAURANT Well-positioned just off the market square, Masala does traditional Indian food in a more contemporary European style as Indian chefs work in plain view behind two long bars in the offbeat granite grey interior full of comical, conical hanging lamps, pop art elephants, and colourful seat cushions. The Express Lunch (served 12:00-15:30, MonFri) fills the seats and represents not only a great bargain, but a great deal of delicious food. The regular menu hits all the marks and portions are larger than most places, earning our earnest recommendation. For those travelling with little ones, note that a babysitter is on hand 12:00-17:00 on weekends.QF‑5, ul. Kuźnicza 3/1 A, tel. (+48) 71 302 69 49, www.masala-grill.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (32-70zł). TUGSW iyp.me/polandblog

January – April 2018

Restaurants INTERNATIONAL BARKA TUMSKA The city’s first riverboat restaurant, and once again Wrocław gets it right on the first try. Nestled between the proliferation of islands and bridges just near Ostrów Tumski, this fantastic river barge offers no less than five unique dining rooms over three levels, including the Captain’s mess and the outstanding upper deck with room for 70 people to take in the sights and sunshine. The menu is an inventive mix of local and Mediterraneaninspired seasonal cuisine, changing every 3 months or so. A smart place to bring a date or the whole family: kids get their own menu and play area and will love exploring the corridors of this unique river diner. Opening hours subject to change in April.QG‑3, Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322 60 77, www.hotel-tumski.com.pl. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Fri 14:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (25-50zł). TUG BERNARD We’ll go along with the crowd and admit that this trendy brewery/restaurant is one of the most alluring locales on the market square. A stylish, airy, three-level interior with a long inviting bar, Bernard is characterised by closely arranged tables which don’t offer any privacy but contribute to the casual atmosphere where the menu is your placemat and it’s perfectly acceptable to just enjoy a drink without eating. To that end, they have their own beer in dark and light, as well as bottled choices including a decent amber and four alcky-free flavours which we wouldn’t know anything about; enjoy their draughts in glasses growing from 0.4 to 2 litres. The food is nothing to overlook with a menu ranging from nachos to Polish and Czech classics, and the upperlevel tables in the window are a great place to take your date, but reserve ahead.QF‑5, Rynek 35, tel. (+48) 71 344 10 54, www.bernard.wroclaw.pl. Open 10:30 - 23:30. (29-98zł). T6UEGSW BRASSERIE 27 Fancy and indeed flavoursome, this place is owned by the hotel Europeum but worthy of its separate entrance. A mega modern, glass fronted appearance is complemented by designer hanging lights and dark woods. The reassuringly short menu starts with Italian and spans steak and also fish dishes, staying mostly within the bounds of Mediterranean cuisine. Friendly service and an award winning chef make this one of the better places in the city to eat.QE‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27A (Europeum Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 371 44 71, www.brasserie27.com. Open 07:00 10:30, 12:00 - 22:30. (23-76zł). UGSW NEW CAMPO Great for an elegant night out, CAMPO is an Argentine steakhouse located in Wrocław’s fancy new Ovo building. Apart from top-quality meat shipped in from the Ojo de Agua farm in Argentina and grilled to perfection in a Josper wood burning oven, CAMPO also offers a selection of delightful 30 Wrocław In Your Pocket

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Restaurants tapas (including calamari, bone marrow with parsley salad, and panko fried blood sausage with horseradish aïoli), ceviche, Iberian ham, oxtail, octopus with okra, and many other mouthwatering dishes. Round your meal off with a nice bottle of Argentine Alamos Torrontés, Saurus Pinot Noir, or Puro Corte.Qul. Podwale 83, tel. (+48) 690 04 03 33, www. campomoderngrill.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (45-190zł). T6UGW CZARY MARY Inside the new Ibis Styles hotel, the design of this charming restaurant is modern and somewhat minimal, enhanced by high contrast colours, floor to ceiling windows looking onto the train station across the street, and - most of all - delightful Alice in Wonderland murals by local artist Szur Szur. The service is classy and the menu is a concise list of beautifully presented entrees that combine unique flavours into creative creations. For such a seemingly casual, almost whimsical, environment, this is surprisingly upscale dining, and a great choice for planning meetings or a meal immediately upon arrival by train.QG‑8, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48 20, www.czarymaryrestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (24-74zł). TUG SW KORBA.TU SIĘ BYWA “The place to be,” indeed: Korba (The Crank) did a very thorough job in making an environment that’s as multifunctional as possible. Their core concept is to divide the day into three parts: breakfast served from a usefully early hour, cheap and tasty daily-special lunch (20zł from noon till 17:00), and a fancier wine-and-dine menu for the evenings. As such, you’ll find everyone from laptoppers sipping the delicious Italian coffee and lone wolves reading the paper while breakfasting on freshly baked sourdough bread to friends gathered around the large communal table and first-daters choosing between venison carpaccio and Black Angus steak. The elegant and vaguely industrial decor easily makes the transition from day to night, and extra points are due for large windows letting in plenty of natural light (or a nighttime city glow).QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 18-20, tel. (+48) 667 67 76 51, korbakuchnia.pl. Open 07:27 - 22:00, Sun 07:27 - 18:00. (20-70zł). T6 UGSW MAMA MANOUSCH Bucking mainstream trends in both menu selection and decor, Mama Manousch is a very welcome addition to the increasingly foodie-esque ul. Świdnicka. The mid- to higher-price, imaginative, and lovingly prepared food is made even better by the laid-back interior featuring a huge wall-and-ceiling mural (portraying Mama herself ), a mezzanine, plenty of plants to rest an eye on, and ample natural lighting. Open morning till night, MM is just as suitable for lazy lunches (29zł, 12:00-16:00 Mon-Fri) as it is for wining and dining in the evenings.QF‑6, ul. Świdnicka 4, tel. (+48) 71 786 62 92, www.mama-manousch.com. Open 12:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (30-60zł). T6UGSW iyp.me/polandblog

January – April 2018

Restaurants MARINA Seafood, pasta, and a concise menu of salads and meats on Wrocław’s mini-marina, with a lovely terrace offering views over the canal. If the weather is too chilly head inside to their upscale bar/lounge (or the new exclusive VIP room) for a cosy cocktail and let the sommelier recommend a bottle of wine (or two) to take away. For those wanting to splash out on a bit of a treat, 3- and 5-course tasting menus are also available. QF‑4, ul. Księcia Witolda 2, tel. (+48) 502 13 08 93, www.marina.wroc.pl. From February 2 open 18:00 22:00. Opening hours are subject to change. (33-90zł). T6UGSW

Przystań & Marina Restaurants Księcia Witolda 2 Phone: +48 502 130 893 FB icon

MENNICZA FUSION It’s “dining with the stars” at this restaurant headed by Top Chef Poland finalist Łukasz Budzik. Located in an epic 16th-century granary and blending a pan-European taste with the highlights of Lower Silesian cuisine, Mennicza Fusion also has a dedicated sommelier on board to guide you through a selection of fine wines. Spoil yourself with their elegant tasting menu, which recently included delicacies like truffle risotto, foie gras, and venison.QF‑6, ul. Mennicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 395 26 02, www.thegranaryhotel.com/mennicza-fusionrestaurant-pl.html. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (45-110zł). T6UGW NADODRZE CAFE RESTO BAR Another hip addition to the ever-improving Nadodrze district, this is a modernly-decorated cafe-resto-bar combo serving coffee brewed using all the newfangled alternative methods, wine, draught beer, a bunch of good lunch options (including pizza, pasta, burgers, salads), and even breakfast bits like avo toast, bagels, and eggs. If you’re feeling whimsical, sit on one of three swings hanging near the front window and wave to random passers-by.QG‑3, ul. Drobnera 26A, tel. (+48) 885 02 03 03. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (19-39zł). T6UG SW OK WINE BAR Elegant, glitzy, and now located right on the waterfront, OK Wine Bar has used an address change to emphatically establish themselves as one of the city’s most refined destinations for business and romance. The decor is white, bright, and modern, with floor-to-ceiling windows letting in lots of natural light by day, and an intoxicating city shimmer after dark. The seasonal menu emphasises local products and includes hors d’oeuvres and a daily three-course lunch from 12:00-16:00 for 46zł (or limit it to two courses for 39zł). Like the menu, the wine list is surprisingly short but resoundingly robust (with glasses beginning from 17zł), but OK also operates as a shop with over 2000 world vintages you can take home.QE‑4, ul. Księcia Witolda 1, tel. (+48) 71 714 21 26, www.okwinebar. com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (40-90zł). 6UEGW

32 Wrocław In Your Pocket

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Restaurants OVO BAR & RESTAURANT Recently opened in Wrocław’s futuristic OVO building (which does remarkably resemble na egg), this glitzy restaurant is a great spot for a slow breakfast, professional business lunch, or an evening of signature tapas and cocktails from their impressive drinks menu, as well as making your mind up about Wrocław’s newest architectural addition.QH‑6, ul. Podwale 84, tel. (+48) 735 99 61 73, www.ovowroclaw.com/pl-restaurant.html. Open 06:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 02:00. (25-90zł). TUGW POD PAPUGAMI Long known as a default Wrocław drinker, it shouldn’t be forgotten that ‘the Pod’ – in the plummest of plum locations on the Rynek - serves up some rather good food too. Take advantage of the 26zł lunches, served Mon-Fri until 17:00, or wait until evening when the terrific pork steaks will set you up very nicely for a night of cocktails and live music inside this classy tourist-friendly venue full of classic movie memorabilia. QF‑5, ul. Sukiennice 9A, tel. (+48) 71 343 92 75, www. podpapugami.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (30-86zł). T6UEGSW PRZYSTAŃ (THE HARBOUR) Decked with tall blonde wood chairs and tables and decorated with old nautical illustrations and knot-tying charts, Przystań nonetheless remains thoroughly modern matching the design of the well-placed new building it occupies. Across the river from the main university building, the real reason to dock in this harbour is the deck seating over the water which offers great views and actually feels like you’re on a boat. The concise menu offers pastas, risotto, steak, saddle of lamb, gorgeous salads - including the very brave chicken liver salad with apple, avocado, orange, and parmesan - and, of course, wonderful seafood and fish.QF‑4, ul. Księcia Witolda 2, tel. (+48) 502 13 08 93, www.przystan.wroc.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (38-90zł). TUGSW NEW QUESTA Located in Q Hotel, Questa goes far beyond expected hotel fare, serving up the likes of steak tartare with marinated porcini mushrooms and quail eggs, grilled beef tenderloin steak in red wine sauce, fried oyster mushrooms with blue-veined cheese, and mascarpone cheesecake with cherry-chili sauce from their seasonally-changing menu. Breakfast is served 6:30-10:30 Mon-Fri and 7:00-11:00 on the weekends; expect a buffet of cold cuts and cheeses, homemade pâté, salad, eggs, bacon, Vienna sausages, pastries, cereal, and other classic brekkie options.QD‑9, ul. Zaolziańska 2, tel. (+48) 71 749 17 00, www.qhotels. pl/en. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (28-69zł). T6UGSW

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January – April 2018

Restaurants

life e th e t Tas us... h wit

Piłsudskiego 98, Wrocław (vis a vis Main Station) bistrostationwroclaw tel: + 48 517 070 124

RESTAURACJA ACQUARIO The upscale restaurant on the rooftop terrace of the legendary Hotel Monopol, Acquario offers an enticing, eclectic menu with a special flair for seafood and innovative tasting menus with 4, 6, or 8 dishes to choose from. If you’re anything like us, however, you’ll be just as interested in the world-class wine list. There’s really no better way to relax than with a bottle of red enjoying the fabulous views over Wrocław through rose-tinted glasses.QE‑6, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 80, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. Open 18:00 - 22:30. 4 dishes for 160zł, 6 for 220zł, 8 for 280zł. UGW RESTAURACJA EUROPEJSKA This newly renovated restaurant on the ground floor of the Hotel Europejski has gone through a similar rebirth. The classic environs are highlighted by the same inviting orange and warm wood tones of the hotel which match the modern Polish and transcontinental European menu perfectly. The mix of classic dishes transcends the usual hotel restaurant fare and the presentation and service is truly exceptional. Even if you’re not a guest we suggest stopping in for their comprehensive breakfast buffet (06:30-10:00) - a great way to start any day.QF‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 88 (Europejski Hotel), tel. (+48) 509 35 67 92, www.europejskiwroclaw.pl. Open 06:30 - 21:00. (1259zł). TUGSW STARY KLASZTOR (THE OLD MONASTERY) Though rebuilt after the war, this former Dominican convent dates back to the early 14th century and was previously the site of a very upscale restaurant - a fact which hints at the ‘wow’ factor of its interior. Full of gorgeous architectural details and high arching ceilings, it’s a bit like dining in a cathedral, but don’t be mistaken - you won’t be cloistered off from society here. Aimed at Wrocław’s student population, there’s an eclectic concert schedule with live music three nights a week on average in the gothic cellars (check their FB page for details), and a large year-round beer garden. On top of that, the full menu of European eats is quite good and the beer selection is great. If you’re really pinching pennies, the attached Bistro Nowy Targ is super cheap. Worth investigating for eats, drinks and hijinks.QG‑5, ul. Purkyniego 1, tel. (+48) 519 89 47 69, www.staryklasztor.com.pl. Open 13:00 - 01:00. (20-89zł). 6EGSW STATEK RESTAURACJA WRATISLAVIA Lunch and a cruise? You bet. When it’s not docked at its harbour on the Oder, Wratislavia glides along the river, offering splendid views of the city and an a la carte menu of traditional fare with modern elements courtesy of chef Piotr Gietner. In the winter season the planned number of cruises is one per day Mon-Wed (at 16:00), and three per day on the other days of the week (12:00, 14:00, and 16:00), though this does depend on assembling at least twenty interested passengers. At 17:30 the vessel docks for the night, and diners can show up without being afraid they’ll

34 Wrocław In Your Pocket

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Restaurants miss the departure. Now this is what we call eating on the water.QG‑4, Wratislavia Harbour, Bulwar Xawerego Dunikowskiego (near the Hala Targowa), tel. (+48) 570 90 29 03, www.statekrestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 16:00 - 24:00. (32-80zł). TGS SUKIENNICE 7 Certainly one of the most elegant, upscale dining establishments to open in Wrocław in some time, Sukiennice 7 offers an outstanding menu of modern Polish and Mediterranean culinary creations served on slabs of slate or thinly-sliced tree trunks. A certain theatricality exists here as the chefs in their funny hats put on a show in the open kitchen (surrounded by a long bar), and the waitresses scurry about wearing in something akin to folk costumes, while a pianist plays in the evening - during which time you can expect this place to be packed despite the ample size of the modern interior. A great place for large group reservations, keep costs down Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00 with their lunch specials.QF‑5, ul. Sukiennice 7, tel. (+48) 71 342 74 56, www.sukiennice7. pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (26-89zł). TUGSW VERTIGO JAZZ CLUB & RESTAURANT How about dinner and a concert? Head to the best jazz venue in the region for a sophisticated evening of rhythmic music, killer cocktails (none of which are called ‘Hot Sax’), and a range of modern fusion-influenced European dishes. Daily concerts begin at 20:30, during which time reservations are recommended.QF‑6, ul. Oławska 13, tel. (+48) 71 335 21 29, www.vertigojazz.pl. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 02:00. Closed Mon. (25-50zł). UEGW WARSZTAT - FOOD & GARDEN Located a bit out of the centre in what was once a car repair shop (a fact still reflected in the name), Warsztat does what would best be described as gourmet cooking - and the prices certainly reflect this. The interior is lovely as is the seasonal garden out back, the atmosphere relaxed despite the overall ‘upscaleness’ of the endeavour, but is it worth coming all the way out to this supremely uninteresting area next to a shopping mall? For us, the answer is probably no.Qul. Niedźwiedzia 5, tel. (+48) 693 50 99 89. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (31-45zł). T6GSW WODNIK RESTAURANT Within walking distance of the Zoo, the restaurant of the Wodnik Hotel certainly isn’t a bad option in an area where choices are limited (and therefore crowded). In keeping with the nautical theme of the hotel, the emphasis here is on fresh fish, which they prepare in their own smokehouse and enhance with herbs from their own garden. Enjoy tempting dishes like salmon teriyaki or duck with apples, pears, and cabbage in the white-scrubbed interior or sunny seasonal terrace. Get there by taxi, or by walking across the Zwierzyniecka Footbridge from the south side of the Zoo (M-6).QL‑7, ul. Na Grobli 28 (Wodnik Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 343 36 67, www.wodnik-hotel.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (36-86zł). T6GW iyp.me/polandblog

January – April 2018

Restaurants ITALIAN CAPRI RISTORANTE PIZZERIA Found inside the Galeria Italiana complex the style here is clear and simple, with visual distractions essentially limited to the streetside views and the theatrics of other diners. Choose from an ambitious range of Italian dishes, with the real emphasis placed on spaghetti, while the proprietors’ Italian origins are unmistakable in their influence on the end product. Prices remain pegged at sensible levels, providing prospective diners with all the more reason to visit.QF‑4, ul. Więzienna 21 (Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48) 71 343 20 71, www.capripizza.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (11-120zł). T6GSW LA SCALA Tried and true La Scala enjoys a big reputation amongst locals, despite revved-up Rynek prices and uneven service from the bow-tied staff. That’s down to the food no doubt, with arguably the best Italian in town in the exclusive upstairs eatery, while the ground floor trattoria offers guests a cheaper, more concise incarnation of the menu amongst red-chequered tablecloths, pictures of rural Italy and strings of garlic.QF‑5, Rynek 38, tel. (+48) 71 372 53 94, www.lascala.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (21-150zł). TS NIEZŁY DYM We’ll cut right to it - the pizza napoletana served here is amazing. Expertly prepared dough, splendid tomato sauce, and tasty topping combinations - like blue cheese and red onion, beet paste and camembert, sweet potatoes and parmesan - have elevated this spot above Wro’s other pizzerias, making this our go-to place for delicious carbs. Italian wine and craft beer is now served, making the experience just that much better. Heartily recommended. QF‑6, Plac Teatralny 1. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (17-30zł). TUGS NEW OGIEŃ Finally, a popular (and good) pizza place in Nadodrze! Our favourite grungy/artsy district of Wrocław usually suffers from a lack of customers, despite a proliferation of trendy cafes and eateries, but this is one of the exceptions. On weekend nights, you’ll find Fire packed to the brim with patrons waiting for their Gorgo or Diavola Neapolitan pizza, served with the obligatory San Marzano DOP tomatoes. There’s also strong Italian espresso, wine, and a modest selection of craft beer to sip on while you watch Nadodrze life go by.QE/F‑2, ul. Pomorska 39/1C, tel. (+48) 531 52 22 36. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (1330zł). T6GSW

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 36 Wrocław In Your Pocket

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Restaurants PIEC NA SZEWSKIEJ Serious competition for Niezły Dym, Piec na Szewskiej makes some truly mean Neapolitan pizza, vouched for by the endless stream of patrons vying for a table. The decor is nothing much, the service is hit or miss, but no one comes here for that - the great selection of authentic napoletana, made with DOP San Marzano tomatoes and ingredients like pecorino cheese, aubergine, prosciutto di Parma, and mozzarella di bufala, is more than sufficient to outweigh the flaws.QF‑4, ul. Szewska 44-46, tel. (+48) 669 34 04 67. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (12-28zł). 6GS W VIVERE ITALIANO Were it not for the not-so-southern architecture outside (and winter slush during certain times of year), you’d probably think yourself to be in Milan or Rome. With an obligatory Vespa parked in the window, a large selection of Tuscan and Sicilian wines, quality deli products in the establishment’s shopping section, and all your favourite classics prepared according to traditional recipes, this is the definition of authentic Italian.QF‑6, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 21, tel. (+48) 513 28 80 29, www. vivereitaliano.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (19-120zł). T6 GSW

JAPANESE

Ul. Odrzańska 17/1a 50-113 Wrocław tel./fax 071 343 37 10 www.sakana.pl

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200 meters from the Main Square

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CATERING AND DELIVERY TO YOUR HOTEL ROOM AVAILABLE

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SAKANA Sushi Bar

A unique place, perfect for an intimate party or exquisite supper.

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OHH!! SUSHI & GRILL One of Poland’s better sushi chains, Ohh!! Sushi continues to surprise shoppers by providing exceptionally authentic, fresh food in one of the last places you would expect it: a shopping mall. Incredibly popular as a take-away spot, that less energy has been put into the design of the interior than the quality of the food should hardly concern anyone’s stomach. With the endorsement of plenty of Asian clients at the tables each time we drop by, Ohh!! Sushi is not only up there with the city’s best Japanese, it’s the best value in Wrocław for this elsewhere-overpriced food fad. Another location in Magnolia Park (ul. Legnicka 58).QG‑6, Pl. Dominikański 3 (Galeria Dominikańska, level 0), tel. (+48) 71 330 65 40, www.ohhsushi.pl. Open 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (14-60zł). TU VGSW

One of the most prestigious sushi restaurants in Poland. A temple of taste, in a classic Japanese style, gathering many loyal customers.

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DAREA SUSHI KOREAN - JAPANESE RESTAURANT A huge open plan space that does little in the way of décor, but plenty for the reputation of Korean food. Overseen by a Korean chap who settled in Poland over a decade ago Darea offers a cracking menu of both Japanese and Korean dishes including tangsuyuk (sweet and sour beef baked in pastry), bulgogi, and five grill options where the cooking is left to the patrons. Highly recommended and a confirmed favourite of Wrocław’s expats. Take-away on offer at a 15 percent discount.QF‑4, ul. Kuźnicza 43/45, tel. (+48) 71 343 53 01, www.darea.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (20-100zł). TVGSW

January – April 2018

Restaurants

korean - japanese restaurant

Wrocław, ul. Kuźnicza 43/45 reservation tel. (071) 343 53 01 restauracja@darea.pl www.darea.pl

THE BEST SUSHI IN THE CITY

SAKANA SUSHI BAR Arguably regarded as the best sushi in the capital, the Sakana team have expanded to cover Wrocław, and the natives appear to be loving it. Expertly prepared raw fish floats by on small boats inside a pleasant white interior decorated sparingly with bamboo bits and bobs. Definitely one of the addresses to be seen dining in, as proved by the crowds of fashionista who prop up the bar.QF‑4, ul. Odrzańska 17/1A, tel. (+48) 71 343 37 10, www.sakana. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (30-50zł). T6VGSW SZAJNOCHY 11 Sushi chefs work in plain view behind the canal bar, foregoing formal pretences with chatty camaraderie, as prepared sushi rolls float by ready to be plucked onto the plates of patrons. That’s not to say these gents don’t know what they’re doing - our nigiri and futomaki rolls were as good (and as fresh) as any we’ve had anywhere, and it’s certainly refreshing to see a bit of lightheartedness applied to something as achingly serious as sushi has been ever since it left Japan. Decor is minimal but on the mark with dark walls, wood furnishings, and scattered plants, and like many other local places, it pays to appear during lunch (served 12:00-16:00 Mon-Fri) for bargain priced sushi sets, which - as you might expect can get quite expensive otherwise. Overall: simple, authentic and, most of all, friendly.QE‑6, ul. Szajnochy 11, tel. (+48) 662 15 13 93, www.szajnochy11.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (20-120zł). TVGSW 38 Wrocław In Your Pocket

JEWISH SARAH Located near the White Stork Synagogue and Jewish Community Centre, Sarah can make its claim as Wrocław’s most Jewish restaurant, for whatever that’s worth. The budget menu - unfortunately not kosher - features traditional Jewish dishes, and though reports of their quality and of the service are a little uneven, this is still a great place to spend time in our opinion. With plenty of atmosphere thanks to earthy colours, menorah candlelight, and loads of antiques, Sarah is reminiscent of the cafes found in Kraków’s old Jewish district and teams with Mleczarnia to create one of the best seasonal beer gardens in the city.QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 609 99 01 97, www.sarah.wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (1539zł). 6UGSW

MEDITERRANEAN LA MADDALENA With a great location next to the Mleczarnia beer garden, and including seasonal outdoor seating overlooking the White Stork Synagogue, La Maddalena offers upscale dining in Wrocław’s formerly Jewish, currently hipster district. The creme-coloured, conservatively elegant interior includes homely touches and can accommodate large groups as well as couples looking for a more intimate date destination. An enticing menu of regional dishes and fusion cooking makes the art of deciding a challenge, iyp.me/wroclaw

Restaurants and with the big emphasis on presentation you may be tempted to take out your camera when they arrive. Portions are small but delicious, and you’d never guess that 80% of the entrees are gluten-free.QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 782 60 90, www.lamaddalena.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (29-85zł). TUG SW SHRIMP HOUSE Just about all the world’s approaches to shrimp eating are represented at this hole-in-the-wall: there’s shrimp in Thai red curry, shrimp in pho, shrimp in tempura, on a sandwich, on a stick, in pasta, sauteed with garlic and white wine, and several other ways. Grab a number at the counter, sit yourself next to a bucket for discarded crustacean tails, and let the shrimp feast begin.QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 13, tel. (+48) 577 99 78 55, www.shrimp-house.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (19-30zł). T6VG SW

100 metres from the Old Town, the Mercure Hotel and the DoubleTree by Hilton

MEXICAN PANCZO Mexican and Tex-Mex in Poland can be terrible microwave-thawed sludge guacamole and flavourless gringo quesadillas are the norm most places you go. Luckily, now and then you’ll find an establishment more interested in flavour and quality (and, dare we say, creativity) than in drawing a crowd familiar exclusively with movie-theatre nachos. This is one of those places. Endearingly unorthodox, their “big-ass burritos” (more Tex than Mex, obviously) feature ingredients like mango salsa, pineapple marinated with passion fruit, and pulled beef neck, which sounds like something a veterinarian would deal with. The end result blew our socks off, and there’s more to try on the menu: pulled-chicken quesadillas, decked-out baked potatoes, tacos, and - since moving out of the 4Hops bar to a place of their own - a selection of colourful margaritas, cheladas, sangrias, and shots. Provecho!QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 35/1A, tel. (+48) 884 00 97 37. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (1227zł). 6UGSW

PASTA BARS RAGU PRACOWNIA MAKARONU (RAGU PASTA WORKSHOP) Enough pasta to make your head spin! The folks behind RAGU originally wanted to produce high-quality handmade pasta for Wrocław restaurants, but they ended up opening an eatery of their own, to considerable acclaim. Freshly made each morning, their gnocchi, tagliatelle, ravioli, and spaghetti are served exactly the way they should be: with unfussy, seasonal ingredients; seafood lovers can also order shrimp, clams, or lobster with black macaroni. Just north of the Botanical Garden, this airy space is filled with natural light and hip enough for a date.QI‑3, ul. Sienkiewicza 34A, tel. (+48) 574 70 88 70, www.ragu. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (13-35zł). T6GW iyp.me/polandblog

KIMCHI RESTAURANT Korean Grills & Street Food OHH SUSHI CITY CENTER C.H. Galeria Dominikańska Pl. Dominikański 3, Wroclaw Tel. 71 330 65 40 Restaurant OHH!! SUSHI & GRILL C.H. Magnolia Park Ul. Legnicka 58, Wroclaw Tel. 71 350 03 68

www.ohhsushiwroclaw.pl ohhsushiandgrill January – April 2018

Restaurants PĄCZKI A tradition since the 1700s, the pączek (plural: pączki) is Poland’s national doughnut, and so popular that it even has its own holiday – Tłusty Czwartek (Fat Thursday) – which falls on the last Thursday before the start of Lent (February 8th, 2018). With Lent forbidding sweets and treats, Fat Thursday is a similar celebration of gluttonous indulgence as in other countries, but with the date bungled, and instead of parading and partying the Poles queue up in lines that sometimes stretch around the corner in order to purchase dozens of doughnuts from the local cukiernia, or bakery. Dense, deep-fried dough balls typically filled with rose jam, glazed with sugar, and topped with candied orange peel, pączki are similar to American jelly doughnuts, the main difference being that instead of squirting jelly all over your lap, Poland’s conservative tendencies ensure there is only a drop of marmalade in the centre somewhere, which an elaborate game could be made around trying to find.

NEW UMAMI DUMPLING & PASTA BAR Not the Japanese establishment you’d expect from the name: instead, Umami explores the ‘fifth taste’ (which, if you need a reminder, is ‘savoury,’ ‘meaty,’ or ‘brothy,’ and was first proposed by chemist Kikunae Ikeda in 1908) in a variety of world cuisines. The owners’ other culinary love is humble flour, and as such the menu focuses largely on dumplings and noodles, such as ravioli, pierogi, wontons, ramen, pad thai, tagliatelle, and more. Bright, airy, and located right on the main square, Umami also appears to be exceptionally child-friendly, judging from the number of cherub-cheeked customers babbling away in high chairs (and yes, there is a kids’ menu!). If you’re thirsty for more, Umami also has an intriguing selection of cocktails, including ‘smoked sesame,’ ‘spicy tomato,’ and ‘roasted tea.’QE/F‑5, Rynek 60, tel. (+48) 602 66 00 38, www. umami.wroclaw.pl. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Mon, Sun 11:30 - 21:30, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 23:00. (21-69zł). T6UG SW

POLISH CHATKA PRZY JATKACH This small, popular Polish eatery, across from the ul. Jatka gallery stalls, achieves the trick of appearing like a rustic village cottage if you don’t notice the ceiling ductwork. Enhancing the illusion is the genuine Bolesławiec folkware on the tables (begging to leap into someone’s handbag), stout wooden tables, timber fittings and a thatched awning over the bar. The menu - conveniently available in Polish, English, and German - features all the Polish classics, but take note that almost everything on it is fried. Despite the average food, it can be hard to score a table in this veteran chow house, which makes a fine place for a fast, local lunch, or late evening meal if you were busy drinking when the dinner bell rang. And they conveniently accept Euros.QF‑5, ul. Odrzańska 7, tel. (+48) 530 23 08 11. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (15-30zł). GS DWÓR POLSKI One of the most regal-looking restaurants on the Rynek, Dwór Polski is chock full of stuffed falcons, Hussar wings, and enough medieval armour and weaponry to start a museum. Those looking for a royal feast however, may be disappointed. Despite the upmarket prices and palatial interiors, the food - mostly game dishes like pheasant, boar, and venison carved up with pewter cutlery - doesn’t always live up to expectations. Gamey indeed, and if you’re a vegetarian, get away quickly.QE‑5, Rynek 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 48 96, www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (30-65zł). T6GSW

ul. Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, Wrocław Phone: +48 71 733 48 20 40 Wrocław In Your Pocket

GORĄCE PIECE ‘New Polish’ food with impressive attention to detail. Hot Ovens take the best Polish culinary traditions and make what they can from scratch: three fourths of their ingredients, including the meats, sausages, smoked fish, bread, and cold-pressed oil, are prepared by hand, and the iyp.me/wroclaw

Restaurants rest come from local suppliers. The menu, unsurprisingly for a Polish restaurant, is heavy on the meat, but vegetarians won’t starve here, either. The only confusion we have is regarding the oddly international touches, such as serving sangria, curry, and chutney - but the taste is good enough that we’re willing to let it go. In the summer opt for a wicker chair in their leafy back garden. Closed on Mondays!QE‑5, ul. Włodkowica 21, tel. (+48) 530 31 55 33. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (28-39zł). T6UGSW JADKA Faultless modern and traditional Polish cuisine inside a warm and minimalist interior featuring vaulted brick ceilings and timber. The concise menu won’t bowl you over, but the class and quality will: choose from the likes of veal in white sauce with capers, roast Mangalitsa pork neck, and boiled beef tongue. Expect an expansive wine list, professional service, and a commitment to excellence. One of the few world-class dining options in the city, with some guests drawn specifically by the name of chef Justyna Słupska Kartaczowska.QE‑5, ul. Rzeźnicza 24/25, tel. (+48) 71 343 64 61, www.jadka. pl. Open 18:00 - 22:00, Sun 18:00 - 21:00. (28-75zł). 6GW KARCZMA LWOWSKA Translating to ‘Lviv Tavern’ and dedicated not only to that formerly Polish city now lost in the wilds of the Ukraine, but also to that thought-to-be lost Polish ideal of a simple country lifestyle, this nostalgic restaurant’s immaculately decorated interior is decked out in rustic, rural artefacts, antiques, old photos and seems to have a stuffed pheasant on almost every table. Designed for day-long feasting, the menu of traditional Galician specialties looks like an outstanding bargain before you notice that all side dishes are charged separately, however the result is still a decent value and evidence that not everything on the market square is a tourist trap.QE‑5, Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 343 98 87, www.lwowska.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (30-80zł). T6EXW KONSPIRA Recreating the 1980s with Soviet newspapers, political cartoons, posters, and other era imagery while Polish ‘hits’ play from the speakers, Konspira calls itself a ‘Centre for Historical Education’ illuminating Wrocław’s role in the Solidarity movement. With some English-language info it could do a better job at that, but as a restaurant it does a fine job of dishing out enormous portions of tasty local grub. The killer location includes a huge garden full of gorgeous trees(!) and a historical exhibit (Polish only unfortunately). Make sure you don’t miss the ‘hidden room’ - walk through a wardrobe to discover a clever recreation of what a Polish apartment might have looked like in the mid80s. Completely unique and worth checking out.QE‑5, Pl. Solny 11, tel. (+48) 796 32 66 00, www.konspira. org. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. (15-40zł). T6GSW iyp.me/polandblog

January – April 2018

Restaurants BREAKFAST

BEMA CAFE Simply a fabulous place to start the day (or spend an entire one), with a breakfast menu that may not bowl you over, but is served all day and includes muesli, oatmeal, omelettes, breakfast sandwiches, salads, and more. Plus, their amazing coffee is included in the tiny price.QG‑3, ul. Drobnera 38, tel. (+48) 71 322 02 12, www.bemacafe.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (6-23zł). 6UGSW CENTRAL CAFE This American-style bakery and cafe is open early for breakfast, offering pastries, cupcakes, quiche, yoghurt, oatmeal, pastrami, and over a dozen bagel sandwich possibilities; big appetites can also order eggs their way and even pancakes (with maple syrup, fruit, powdered sugar, however you want).QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 10, tel. (+48) 71 794 96 23, www.centralcafe.pl. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 16:00. Breakfast served 07:00 - 14:30; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:30. (8-25zł). T6UGSW DINETTE Wrocław’s most epic breakfast has made it out of the Sky Tower shopping centre and into a far more convenient location in the Old Town. As such, the most difficult part of your morning might just be deciding which delicious option to choose from the extensive menu (we swear by the shakshouka with excellent freshly-baked bread). Unfortunately breakfast is only served till noon, but during the rest of the day you can enjoy a bistro menu of international dishes.QF‑6, Plac Teatralny 8, tel. (+48) 502 57 51 45, www.dinette.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. (10-25zł). T6UGW POCHLEBNA B e it a lazy Saturday morning or a gentle ease into a busy work day, Pochlebna is a good breakfast option (served until 12:00, weekends 13:00), offering fresh-out-of-theoven baked goods, a selection of homemade spreads, organic eggs, gluten-free pancakes, and tasty coffee in a bright and modern two-level interior. QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48) 733 03 50 81, www. pochlebna.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. (20-35zł). T6GSW 42 Wrocław In Your Pocket

PIWNICA ŚWIDNICKA Seems things have gone downhill a bit since this place was opened over 700 years ago, making it the first beer cellar in Europe. Named after the Schweidnitz (Świdnica) beer brewed in the basement back in those days, today it serves primarily as an effective tourist trap where the labyrinth of historic Town Hall vaults lure unwitting visitors into ordering rather average overpriced traditional food served by uncaring staff. Nonetheless an Old Town landmark, and well worth a look at the very least.QF‑5, Rynek Ratusz 1, tel. (+48) 71 369 95 10, www.piwnicaswidnicka.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (32-75zł). GW POD FREDRĄ A perfect introduction to traditional Polish cuisine, from a perfect location inside Wrocław’s medieval Town Hall, Pod Fredrą ably covers the spectrum of Polish classics and even boasts its very own onsite smokehouse. The music, walls, and meaty menu combine to create the appearance of an old Polish village and the staff will dutifully serve you in at least three languages (Polish, German or English). The extensive country fare is complemented by a large and international wine list, and you need not worry about your eyes being too big for your stomach as they’re quite happy to doggy-bag whatever you’re unable to put away of the large portions.QF‑5, Rynek - Ratusz 1, tel. (+48) 71 341 13 35, www.podfredra.pl. Open 11:00 23:00. (30-60zł). 6UXSW RESTAURACJA MONOPOL Known under communism as the most exclusive restaurant in Wrocław, queues would stretch outside the revolving doors as the staff shooed away anyone not wearing a tie, and menus and tableware frequently disappeared into the pockets of souvenir hoarders banking on the Monopol’s rep as a culinary masterpiece. With the historic building renovated and under the savvy stewardship of Likus, today that excellence is back in place with master chefs preparing a wide range of traditional Polish dishes, and an inspired breakfast smorgasbord starting each day. A modern classic, just leave the cutlery when you go.QE‑6, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 80, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. Open 06:30 - 10:00, 12:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 07:30 - 10:30, 12:00 22:00. (65-90zł). UGW SETKA - BAR POLSKI LUDOWEJ For those who miss the communist system, and those who simply missed it altogether, this ‘Polish Folk Bar’ recreates the Soviet-era diner experience in the mould of the currently trendy 24hr Polish snack and shot bar. The loud, time-warp interior is plastered floor to ceiling with fine historical images of PRL life, while the menu is a bit more than the typical romp through cold dishes that complement vodka - the ribs are arguably the best in town, and we also recommend the potato pancakes with goulash. The prices here are precious more than pocket change, and Setka is certainly more popular than we ever remember any other aspect of the communist system being in this country.QF‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 50A, tel. (+48) 733 40 74 07, www. setkabar.com. Open 10:00 - 06:00. (8-16zł). GW iyp.me/wroclaw

Restaurants ŚWIĘTA RACJA ‘New Polish’ food in great style - to be honest, we’d recommend this over all the city’s tourist-trappy Polish restaurant any day. The interior is chic and toned-down with a loft feel, while the menu is full of reworked classics like pork knuckle, pork ribs, lard, grilled smoked cheese, salmon, heart goulash, and grilled pork chops - all more delicious than the names might imply. A word of warning vegetarians and vegans will have a bad time here.QF‑5, ul. Odrzańska 6, tel. (+48) 535 05 00 89. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. (19-43zł). TGW

Karczma Lwowska

PORTUGUESSE PINTO PERI-PERI & GRILL Finally, some authentic Portuguese flavours! As per the name, this low-key establishment embellished with exposed brick and azulejo tiles focuses on peri-peri chicken, a Portuguese BBQ specialty in spicy sauce made from the peri-peri pepper. Also on the menu: caldo verde soup, bacalhau a braz (salt cod with potatoes and eggs), bitoque (steak), and delicious Portuguese wines. During the warm season you can sit outside and watch Wrocław life go by while dreaming of Lisbon.QF‑4, ul. Uniwersytecka 11/12, tel. (+48) 696 12 77 66. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (18-47zł). T6UVGSW TASZKA WINE & PETISCOS Finally proving that the Main Square isn’t reserved only for immortal, pompous establishments and overpriced tourist traps, Taszka is a labour of love by a Polish-Portuguese duo, serving Portuguese-inspired petiscos (tapas) and two informal tasting menus (vegetarian and omnivore) alongside an impressive selection of wines straight from sunny Portugal. Fresh and unique, Taszka’s imaginative dishes and laid-back atmosphere are a winning combination for date night or a post-sightseeing splurge.QF‑5, ul. Rynek 53/55, tel. (+48) 570 33 74 24, www.taszka.wine. Open 16:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (32-58zł). T6UGSW

Wrocław, Rynek 4 Rezerwacje / Reservations +48 / 71 34 39 887 karczma@lwowska.com.pl www.lwowska.com.pl

THAI PHATHATHAI This typical hole-in-the-wall establishment has perhaps four tables and an open kitchen, meaning you can peer right into the Thai cooks’ woks as they stir-fry together delicious concoctions. The very fairly-priced menu includes curries, spring rolls, fried rice, and - of course - pad thai, all served on eco-friendly wheat bran plates. Care to learn some Thai phrases while chowing down? Look no further than the blackboard on the back wall.QF‑5, ul. Więzienna 5C, tel. (+48) 534 79 88 63, www.phathathai.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (15-25zł). 6VGSW

Read more reviews online: wroclaw.inyourpocket.com iyp.me/polandblog

January – April 2018

Restaurants QUICK EATS BISTRO STATION Cheap and plentiful home-style food right next to the main train station - convenience at its best for weary travellers. Though buffets aren’t usually paragons of hip decor, we were pleasantly surprised by Bistro Station’s classy ambiance, and you probably will be, too; all that’s left is to load up your plate with goodies, then weigh and pay - 100 g of food costs an easy-on-the-wallet 3.35zł.QF‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 98, tel. (+48) 517 07 01 24. Open 11:00 - 19:00. 6UGSW PASIBUS Fanning the flames of Poland’s gourmet burger obsession is this delicious restaurant/foodtruck hybrid leading a proper invasion of the city with eight locations and (possibly) counting. For the full menu, indoor seating, and alc, choose “Pasibus Station” on ul. Włodkowica 37 or ul. Świdnicka 11; for on-the-go eats try to spot one of their food trucks scattered around town. The Jack Daniels burger is just about the manliest thing we’ve heard of, and other creations include such unconventional ingredients as pear chutney, red onion jam, and sunnyside-up egg; each can be made vegetarian by swapping the 100% beef patty for a meatless alternative.QF‑6, ul. Świdnicka 11, www.pasibus.pl. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (923zł). T6UGS W KONTAKCIE An obsession with vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free creations has gripped big-city Poland as much as the rest of the Western world, and with it comes a demand for gourmet hummus, apparently. The best chickpea paste in Wro is to be found at this cosy and chic hole-in-thewall next to the University of Science and Technology campus; choose from a myriad toppings like blue cheese, caramelised onions, peanut sauce, and horseradish. Also recommended for breakfast: the selection includes shakshouka, oatmeal, challah, and imaginative pastes served with egg or avocado.QJ‑5, ul. Benedykta Polaka 12/1B, tel. (+48) 785 65 85 10. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. (10-25zł). 6GSW NEW ZJEMBAO Quick, messy, and delicious. The baos served out of this food truck near Dworzec Świebodzki come in six multicoloured versions, oozing with sauces and loaded with good stuff like glazed bacon + kimchi, marinated tofu + red coleslaw + peanuts, or oyster mayonnaise + spinach + panko fried shrimp. There’s even an adjoining ‘semiindoor’ seating section shielded with plastic sheeting, but beware that it is freezing cold in the winter, despite the best efforts of a small space heater. Dim sum and soups coming soon!QC‑6, ul. Tęczowa 3, tel. (+48) 739 90 05 55. Open 12:00 - 20:00. (12-18zł). GoSW 44 Wrocław In Your Pocket

UKRAINIAN HORTYCA With the historical and cultural connection that post-war Wrocław shares with Ukraine, you would expect Ukrainian food to be more prevalent locally, but we’ll happily settle for Hortyca. With a radio playing from behind the bar and a simple menu of traditional dishes, this casual, cheap and tiny restaurant offers a surprisingly authentic experience of Ukrainian dining, enhanced by the folksy decor, flatware, and dress of the plumpfaced waitress. If you’re not well-versed in Ukrainian food, it’s basically what you might have surmised: a blend of Polish and Russian cuisine; as such, the short menu is populated with dumplings, blinis and borscht. Our plov - a rice dish with meat and ‘traditional seasonings’ - was delicious, and we capped it off by toasting PL’s eastern neighbours with a shot of Nemiroff. QF‑4, ul. Więzienna 18/1, tel. (+48) 71 318 75 66, www. hortyca.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (13-35zł). TGSW KNAJPA KRES ‘Kres’ refers to the former eastern provinces of PL lost after WWII (today in Lithuania, Belarus, and Ukraine), though they seem to be using the term more liberally here, with Czech beers and Georgian wine on offer; the food, however, is decidedly Ukrainian with the house specialty being ‘Chicken Kiev’. The menu may pose a challenge for those unfamiliar with obscure Eastern dishes, but the staff will help you figure out that most of the food is fairly familiar. Though it’s primarily a cheap restaurant, the atmosphere here skews more towards an alternative bar/cafe with a young crowd and more hipster hallmarks (unfinished floors, plywood bar, neon sign) than interwar nostalgia. With frequent events and film screenings, the curious Kres wants to be a bit of everything, but it’s surprisingly friendly for a place that exudes cool.QF‑6, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 19, tel. (+48) 884 15 10 45, www. knajpa-kres.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (16-42zł). 6EGSW

VEGETARIAN AHIMSA RESTAURANT & CLUB Okay, first things first: these people really do know their spices, and it’s hard to believe that someone can inject this much flavour into lowly tofu. You won’t leave hungry, either; the allvegan menu offers huge portions of veggie sizzlers, masala dosa, stir-fry vegetables in peanut sauce, thali and sushi of the day, falafel, and veggie burgers. While the delicious smell might just be the deciding factor when choosing to dine here, the warm minimalist ambience entices you to sit a while longer.QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 23, tel. (+48) 71 344 55 22, www.ahimsa.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (15-30zł). T6GSW BASZTA Centuries ago (eight of them to be exact), this gloomy brick tower was part of the city’s medieval defensive fortifications, and today it houses one of the most unique alternative hang-outs in town. Offering an outstanding menu of vegan and vegetarian food, choice from outrageously cheap iyp.me/wroclaw

Restaurants curries, pad thai, tempeh and tofu satay, ramen, and other Pan-Asian delights, plus wine, beer, and a range of vegan and gluten-free desserts. Baszta also doubles as a gallery for surreal graphics over its three ancient storeys, and achieves a low-key, romantic, bohemian vibe perfect for bean bag conversation or burying your nose in a book. Getting there is an adventure, and you’ll surely make an impression on anyone you navigate through the dark courtyard behind Hala Targowa to Baszta’s door (most easily achieved from ul. Piaskowa). Seek it out.QG‑5, ul. Kraińskiego 14, tel. (+48) 603 51 08 35, www.baszta.wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (23-25zł). T6VGSW NAJADACZE.PL Wrocław now has enough alternative eating options - most of them excellent - to send tourists on a veritable vegetarian food crawl. This small, likeable, and exclusively vegan eatery is certainly worth seeking out as well, offering a concise menu of Arabic and Indian cuisine that’s also conveniently available in English. The falafel burgers (15zł) are a big hit, while other highlights include the hummus, tofu cheesecake, kofta, and more. There’s a range of fair trade coffees, teas, and sodas, the food comes out of the kitchen fast, and costs almost nothing. Eat well and spend little that’s what it’s all about no matter what your diet.QF‑4, ul. Nożownicza 40, tel. (+48) 71 344 55 11, www.najadacze. pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (6-22zł). 6VGSW THINK LOVE JUICES & VEGAN FOOD WROCŁAW OVO Perhaps the first ‘upscale’ vegan establishment in the city, Think Love shocks with prices, but then delivers. The location is a boutiquey - if rather cramped - space in Wrocław’s futuristic Ovo building (which is becoming a mini-centre for hip dining), and the gourmet menu entices with plant-based specialties inspired by world cuisines. Pop by in the morning for sweet and savoury breakfast sets and don’t forget to try their signature juices.QB‑4, ul. Podwale 83, tel. (+48) 507 05 72 57. Open 08:00 - 21:00. (25-34zł). 6GS VEGA This veteran establishment earns honours for being the first in the country to commit to going all vegetarian when it opened way back in 1987. Now, following a needed renovation, Vega has upped its own ‘anti-’ by going 100% vegan. Set over two floors right on the market square, the modern makeover has done wonders for the interior and the food is good as ever, especially the amazing cakes, desserts, and vegan nice cream. Enjoy daily specials, meatless cutlets, and Eastern-inspired dishes, with plenty for diabetics, those going gluten-free, and even raw foodies. Full of flyers and activist info, this place is a veritable counter-culture centre, and probably the cheapest, most alternative place you can eat on the market square of any major city in Poland. Way to go, Wrocław. Note that opening hours for the second floor differ: it’s 9:00-19:00 MonFri, 12:00-19:00 Sat, 12:00-18:00 Sun.QF‑5, ul. Sukiennice 1/2, tel. (+48) 71 344 39 34, www.barvega.wroclaw.pl. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Fri 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. (8-32zł). T6GSW iyp.me/polandblog

lion visitors

More than a mil

Kazimierza Wielkiego 50A Wrocław Tel.: +48 733 407 407 www.setkabar.com / setkabar

January – April 2018

Nightlife

People’s Republic nostalgia at PRL (p.53).

Wrocław bars are flexible - no matter what the official closing times are, most will stay open until the last customer has crawled out. The lion’s share are concentrated around the market square, but for more alternative drinking destinations also check out the divey tippler’s strip below the ul. Bogusławskiego train tressle (F-8), and destinations west of the market square, namely the hip cafe/bars of Pasaż Pokoyhof (D-5, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4) and ul. Włodkowica (D-5/6), and the hedonistic courtyards off ul. Ruska, including Pasaż Niepolda (D-5, ul. Ruska 51, p.52). Recently, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich (E-5/F-6) has also emerged a one of the city’s most happening alternative streets. For clubbing, the main hedonist hangouts are ul. Św. Mikołaja (D-5) and the famous Pasaż Niepolda (D-5, p.52), where the parties last until morning even if you don’t. Expect cover charges of anywhere from 5-20zł at the door on weekends, and don’t expect to find toilet paper in any of the bathrooms after 22:00.

CRAFT BEERS Discover the depths of Polish beer culture in AleBrowar (p.47), Kontynuacja (p.48), and Marynka (p.49), or check out one of the breweries (p.50) where they make their own.

Unfortunately, space is limited in our print guide, so visit our website - wroclaw.inyourpocket.com (of which there’s also a mobile version) - to read reviews of almost every drinking locale in town, and leave us your comments about all of those which you’ve visited. Na zdrowie, and happy hangover.

COUPLES Show off by starting the night with a romantic dinner in OK Wine Bar (p.49), or a fancy drink in Papa Bar (p.50). Enjoy a classy jazz concert at Vertigo (p.53), continue the conversation by candlelight in Mleczarnia (p.49), or take a turn on the dance-floor in Mañana (p.53).

COCKTAILS Shake it up in local stalwarts Papa Bar (p.50) and Pod Papugami (p.51), or get fresh and fruity in Coctail Bar Max (p.48). Domówka (p.52) and Grey (p.52) are currently the most exclusive catwalks for celebrity spotting and being seen. 46 Wrocław In Your Pocket

STUDENTS As beer prices go up, cheap shot bars (p.48) are appearing all over, sustained by Wrocław’s student population. For spontaneous booty shaking it’s off to Szajba (p.51) and Mañana (p.53). LADS Football, food, and beer aren’t hard to come by in Wro, but you can do that at home. Instead, make friends over Pro Evo in Padbar (p.50) and try one of the Polish Snacks & Shots spots in town (p.48).

ALTERNATIVE Regular presentations on how to be a Polish hipster are given in Szklarnia (p.51) and KRVN (p.48); Nietota (p.50) has a darker side, and Art Cafe Kalambur (p.52) is the heights of opiatic art nouveau decadence. iyp.me/wroclaw

Nightlife HOT BEER?

SYMBOL KEY N Credit cards not accepted G No smoking U Facilities for the disabled

6 Animal friendly

X Smoking room available

E Live music

W Wi-fi connection

BARS & PUBS ALEBROWAR The flagship brew pub of one of PL’s best and first craft beer brands, AleBrowar combines Polish street graphics with American-style microbrewing. As this watering hole’s official motto states, “don’t say hop until you try.” Actually, scratch that - the cool decor and crowds of chipper, welldressed patrons draw you in as soon as you round the corner, and the great selection of craft beer makes you stay for another... and another.QD‑5, ul. Włodkowica 27, tel. (+48) 533 94 48 23, www.alebrowar.pl. Open 14:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. 6GW BLACKBOARD PUB Located in the trend-setting Ibis Styles Hotel across from Dworzec Główny, the location may not be ideal for a pub crawl, but if you’ve got some time to kill between connections, or if you’re craving a pint straight off the train, then this surprisingly hip hotel bar is definitely worth a visit. It’s got a touch of industrial chic, black-and-white decor, neon and mood lighting, walls covered in blackboard paint and chalk renderings, live sports on the TV, and a laid-back ambience - what more do you need?QG‑8, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48 21. Open 17:00 - 02:00. UGW

Though the Polish winter is famous for being long and brutal, fear not, the Poles have a method for taking the bite out of this blustery season, and as you can probably guess - it’s alcohol (congratulations, Kowalski). For those in need of a warm-up that wince at the thought of vodka, we have two words for you: hot beer, or ‘grzane piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas present, and others still an utter profanity. Regardless, it’s a necessary invention and a must-try (at least once) for anyone travelling in PL during the winter months. Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ - or mulled wine - as you’ll notice by the outdoor stands selling cups of it during the holiday season. Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...and Na zdrowie!

CASA DE LA MUSICA This fun Cuban-themed music club takes all the best aspects of Cuban culture, sparing patrons glorified portraits of Che in favour of colourful framed cigar labels, an antique cash register, and proper mojitos. The Latin DJs play passionate salsa, rumba, and merengue music, often leaving their station to take local lasses in hand and put on a dancing clinic. If you know how to move to this music, consider yourself money in the bank; if not, be careful - or your girlfriend will have the time of her life while you sit and shrug down a beer. Chump.QF‑5, Rynek Ratusz 11/12, tel. (+48) 661 97 03 37, www.casadelamusica.pl. Open 16:00 - 02:00. W NEW CEREGIELE Adorned with confusing monochrome wall art featuring cats, clocks, aeroplanes, and surrealist scenes, which inexplicably make you feel like you’re underwater, Ceregiele is a smallish pub on ul. Rzeźnicza offering the usual selection of craft beer, whisky, and cocktails. They also boast about iyp.me/polandblog

ul. Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, Wrocław Phone: +48 71 733 48 21 January – April 2018

Nightlife POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS

Photo by Karol Grzenia

A very Polish phenomenon that has swept the country in recent years is the 24-hour snack and shot bar. Known locally as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’ (literally ‘Appetisers & Snacks’), these trendy bars cash in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by offering a small selection of simple, local appetisers (typically served cold) for about 8zł each, with drinks typically fixed at 4zł. The menu reads like a list of correct answers to the Jeopardy question ‘Foods that Go With Vodka’ and typically includes śledz (pickled herring in oil), galaretka (pig trotters in jelly), kiełbasa, pierogi, pickles and tartare. The bars listed below are great places to meet the city’s strangest characters. NAGI KAMERDYNER An absolutely fantastic boozer that also operates as an esteemed photography gallery (galeriajadalnia.pl), ‘The Naked Butler’ captures the outlaw elegance of Prohibition-era America with music from the 1920s and ‘30s and interrogation lamps. With above-average hot and cold Polish dishes for 8zł and an all-too-convenient location in the courtyard underneath the legendary Manana Cafe, you never know when we might be stool pigeoning at the bar with our brim pulled low over a plate of bigos and a beer, or mingling with high society at one of their art openings.QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 695 63 09 63, www.nagikamerdyner. pl. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UGW SETKA - BAR POLSKI LUDOWEJ As unlikely as the combo may sound, Setka (the Polish name for a 100ml glass of hard alcohol) is where Las Vegas meets the former People’s Republic of Poland in a brash, loud, and fun drinking den that’s bursting at the seams on most nights. With a slot-machine-esque backlit menu board featuring the likes of herring, lard, and goulash displayed smack dab in the middle, a garishly multicoloured ceiling, and a slightly irritated female voice reading the order numbers over the mic, this is a blast from the past dressed to please presentday bar-hoppers.QF‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 50A, tel. (+48) 733 40 74 07, www.setkabar.com. Open 10:00 - 06:00. GW 48 Wrocław In Your Pocket

the quality of their coffee, which might be a much-needed pick-me-up in the wee hours.Their other speciality is FIFA video game tournaments, which take place every couple of months and draw a heavily male crowd.Qul. Rzeźnicza 2, tel. (+48) 883 30 74 74, www.ceregiele.com. Open 19:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 19:00 - 06:00. 6W COCTAIL BAR MAX & DOM WHISKY The search for the letter ‘k’ continues at this upscale, roomy and inviting locale featuring tall windows, exposed brick, and a well-stocked 360 degree bar at the centre. Busy and chatty in the evenings, Coctail Bar Max nevertheless draws a calmer crowd, making this the place for getting one or two elegant drinks without stepping on other patrons’ feet or having to yell over dubstep. For a fancier experience, allow the white-smocked waiter to gingerly guide you into a glasspartitioned room of cigars and rare whiskeys, some dating back to the 1960s.QE‑5, ul. Rzeźnicza 28-31, tel. (+48) 691 96 00 00, www.barmax.pl. Open 11:00 - 05:00. UXW DOCTOR’S BAR Spacious, busy, and irresistibly hip what with the whitewashed brick, white tiles, and trendy light fixtures (gotta have those), Doctor’s is owned by a local brewery called Doctor Brew. The splendid selection of craft beer aside, this centrally located watering hole also offers dailyspecial lunches for 21zł (12:00-15:00) and hot snacks until the kitchen decides to close.QA‑3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8, tel. (+48) 721 66 06 06. Open 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. 6GW KONTYNUACJA Wrocław might be the best beer city in PL, and this is arguably its best craft beer house - though competition is fierce. With 25 beers from PL and abroad on draught (including two hand-pumps), the ales are inscrutable, and the atmosphere has picked up considerably despite a slow start. With modern, minimal decor, a lengthy bar, and long thin tables to encourage conversation, this is one of the most popular meet-up places for a pint or two and some good conversation.QF‑6, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 17, tel. (+48) 792 40 00 84, www.kontynuacja.ontap.pl. Open 16:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. 6GW KRVN Shorthand for ‘Karavan’ (obviously), this odd and amiable bar/bistro combines a smart post-modern aesthetic with a street art edge and deliberate traces of urban decay: think steel doors and subtle neon, plus strange Sharpie scribbles on unfinished walls. In the evenings it’s a total hipster hangout full of fanny packs, plug earrings, ironic moustaches, and fast electronic music. The drinks menu is unique, inventive, and nothing short of excellent, with a long list of original cocktails and hot concoctions for weathering the long Polish winter. By day natural light filters through the street-side windows and KRVN is more of a bistro with a great menu of hot sandwiches, burgers, and salads (served until 22:00, Fri-Sat 24:00). An ideal place to pretend you’re not a tourist, this is essentially the perfect iyp.me/wroclaw

Nightlife Wrocław hangout.QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 40/1A, tel. (+48) 575 79 17 57, www.krvn.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. 6GSW

Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whisky

LIGERO CIGAR & RUM LOUNGE Located in the snazzy Justin Centre, Ligero is Wrocław’s largest cigar shop and lounge, offering expert advice and a huge selection of hand-rolled Cuban, Dominican, Nicaraguan, and Honduran cigars from their state-of-the-art walk-in humidor. Recline in a leather armchair in their spacious, perfectly ventilated smoking lounge and enjoy top-shelf Caribbean spirits. The rum selection is unparalleled, but they also have excellent coffee and a tasty selection of local craft beers, allowing you to make the experience not only more Wroclavian, but more casual as well.QG‑6, ul. Krawiecka 1/1A, tel. (+48) 71 712 71 57, www.ligerolounge.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00. 6UXW

C O C K T A IL S L E G E N D ASRHYE XO T IC F R U IT S

MARYNKA PIWO I APERITIVO Marynka essentially takes the idea and atmosphere of a wine and tapas bar and applies it to choice ales. Here you can select from a wide variety of beers from all over the world, including 8 regularly changing taps, while snacking on tasty appetisers, and they’ve now added delicious woodfired pizza to their bag of tricks thanks to a cooperation with Happy Little Food Truck parked out back. Hidden in an obscure courtyard behind Graciarnia near the Royal Palace, this is a refined place for beer lovers to relax without the snobbery you might associate with connoisseur culture. Worth seeking out.QE‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 39, tel. (+48) 504 31 49 01. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. 6GW MLECZARNIA We’ve been mainstays at this dusky, back-street, candlelit pub since our first days in town. Hidden in an enchanting courtyard with the White Stork Synagogue and a glorious oak tree, the summer beer garden is fantastic, while the sepia interior of wobbly furnishings and framed sketches captures an ethereal, nostalgic atmosphere better than anywhere else in Wroc’s former Jewish district. A bohemian mix of local academics, hipsters and hostelers drink through the debate topics of the day while an excellent mix of ethnic and indie music (always played at just the right level) drifts through the air. Honestly, Mleczarnia is the kind of place we could live in, and some regulars appear to actually do so. With a hostel upstairs, you can too.QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 788 24 48, www.mle.pl. Open 08:00 - 04:00. T6SW MOTYLA NOGA Hands-down the most epic drinking location in the city: though this student dive bar and ‘gastro pub’ isn’t all that great on its own, the 14th-century prison that houses it, complete with a fantastic courtyard that doubles as a year-round beer garden, certainly is. Skip the greasy food, order whatever they have on tap, and soak up the medieval vibes.QF‑4, ul. Więzienna 6, tel. (+48) 71 319 42 29. Open 08:30 - 01:00, Fri 08:30 - 03:00, Sat 07:00 - 03:00, Sun 07:00 - 24:00. 6GSW iyp.me/polandblog

ul. Rzeznicza 28-31 50-130 Wroclaw tel. + 48 691 960 000 wroclaw@Barmax.pl www.Barmax.pl www.domwhisky.pl

W IT H F R E

tio whisky selec The Biggest Poland in

WINE BARS OK WINE BAR Refined and glitzy, OK Wine Bar is more than OK with a location right on the waterfront and floortoceiling windows letting in shimmering light reflected off the Oder River, it’s probably the most romantic spot for wining and dining. Their robust wine list comprises over 2000 vintages to be had by the bottle and a short but effective selection of vino to be had by the glass.QE‑4, ul. Księcia Witolda 1, tel. (+48) 71 714 21 26, www.okwinebar.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. 6UEGW WINNICA NA SOLNYM A little wine bar tucked away in a beautifully green, vine-covered courtyard, remarkably peaceful given its location right on Plac Solny. They import their wines and champagnes directly from small family vineyards to keep prices low and offer all kinds of little snacks that pair well with the drink of the gods, from cheese platters to fondue to olives. QE‑5, Plac Solny 14, tel. (+48) 696 58 35 27, www.winnicanasolnym.pl. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. GW

January – April 2018

Nightlife BREWERIES Wrocław has a long and illustrious history of brewing beer thanks to its past allegiances and current proximity to both Germany and Czech Republic. While craft beers are all the rage at the moment, the venues below are taking it to the next level by actually brewing their own. BIERHALLE In a battle with Spiż for best local microbrewery, do your drinking under the parasols of their prime Rynek real estate during the sunny season, retreating into the restaurant during those six months of the year when willful impairment is forced indoors. Continuing Wrocław’s long brewing tradition, this outfit does it all on-site with wheat, pilsner, and dark beers among those on draught. Prices are aimed at German tourists, and lager lovers that they are you’ll find plenty of them happy to pay for the privilege of a good ale. If it’s game day, you’ll find Bierhalle’s plethora of teles to be one of your best bets for catching the match.QF‑5, Rynek Ratusz 24-27, tel. (+48) 601 67 74 52, www.bierhalle. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. UGW BROWAR ZŁOTY PIES (GOLDEN DOG BREWERY) A place where beer keeps no secrets from beer drinkers - the “live brewing” going on in this establishment means that all stages of the process take place right in front of visitors’ eyes, and you might even be allowed to chuck in some malt or hops. Situated in a beautiful main square tenement house with a golden dog emblem (giving rise to the name), Złoty Pies offers five types of beer lager, IPA, wheat, amber, and porter - and a selection of modern Polish dishes which draw upon local products and change with the seasons.QF‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 1-2, tel. (+48) 570 22 12 12, www.zlotypies.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. 6GW SPIŻ BREWERY After losing some ground in the Breslau best beer debate to Bierhalle, Spiż seems to have picked up the slack by unveiling a few new brews which combined with their caramel and honey beers, should be enough to convince your ladyfriend to give it a go. With seven unpasteurised, unfiltered brews in total, you should find something to your taste, though beer enthusiasts are a bit split about the quality. Despite service that is largely lacking, a free table in the summer beer garden is still a rarity, while an Oktoberfest atmosphere prevails in the dark cellars of the Town Hall. Spiż is still considered a must-visit by locals and remains perhaps Wrocław’s most recognisable bar.QF‑5, Rynek-Ratusz 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 72 25, www.spiz.pl. Open 10:00 02:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. T6XW 50 Wrocław In Your Pocket

NIETOTA One of Wrocław’s most original venues, Nietota is a place for artsy discourse, self-destructive decadence, and debauchery. An awful lot of time has gone into the decor with almost every surface covered in highly-illustrative original artwork that gives the space a grotesque, creepycool Nachtkabarett atmosphere where concerts and theatre troops take the stage between weekend DJ nights. Completely unique in style and atmosphere, the drinks list is also exceptional with Lindeman’s cherry lambic to candy the lips of the ladies and delicious Litovel straight from Czechia. Well worth seeking out.QF‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 50, tel. (+48) 733 23 39 92. Open 17:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 02:00. EGW PADBAR With a beer in one hand and a joystick in the other, Padbar is a concept club for gamers (not gay men, sorry for the confusion). The investment here obviously went into equipment, not decor, which consists of black sofas, bean bags, plywood tables...and dozens of flatscreen TVs where you can play seemingly every video game, for every gaming system, ever created. But Padbar isn’t limited to video games - there are plenty of board games as well, plus the obligatory Warhammer and Magic: The Gathering crowds. With stencil art of Rambo and Einstein holding game consoles, and a cocktail menu with names like ‘Princess Zelda’ and ‘Crash Bandicoot’, this place is impressively thought out, wildly popular and loud with laughter. Perfect for making new friends, getting nostalgic and having a blast, few places are as fun and friendly as Padbar. Game on.QE‑5, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 1, tel. (+48) 883 75 17 15, www.padbar.pl. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. UGW PAPA BAR One of Wrocław’s most stylish and chic bars, how much you favour Papa Bar really depends how much you fancy yourself a fit with the jet set. Filled with foreign and local hotshots in collars and cufflinks beside blonde beauties and botox cougars drinking cocktails and single malt whiskeys around an endless rectangular bar, grand colonnades support the ceiling while red carpet shots of smiling Hollywood hunks and starlets dress the walls. The space is enormous and has been entirely given over to smokers, with the exception of a small corner. Though the tedious house music is hardly original, Papa Bar still provides many of the comforts other places lack - including competent mixologists, sports on the flatscreen and a menu of great eats served late. Recommended.QE‑5, ul. Rzeźnicza 32/33, tel. (+48) 71 341 04 85, www.papabar. pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. UXW POD LATARNIAMI A warm, elegant, yet perfectly casual pub with a retro turn-of-the-century interior full of mirrors, marble, and fine woodwork, including a long bar fitted with lanterns. In addition to great atmosphere, there’s are 8 craft beers on iyp.me/wroclaw

Nightlife draught, rows of bottled ales and whiskies, and a mercifully short menu of local specialties, grilled meats (including a very good breaded pork chop), and veggie options, which are not only tasty, but represent a great value. One of the few places in Wrocław to earn mass approval from high-collared businessmen, British tourists, wind-creased geasers, and first-dating students. We like it too.QE‑5, ul. Ruska 3/4, tel. (+48) 71 344 03 24. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Thu 08:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. T6GSW POD PAPUGAMI Packed with wasp-waisted blondes, Pod Papugami still rates as one of the top venues in town for terrific food, smart drinks and live music. Squeeze among the local stars to knock down complicated cocktails amid film reels, projectors and vintage movie memorabilia. Champagnevoiced chanteuses take the stage most nights, and the performances are usually very good indeed.QF‑5, ul. Sukiennice 9A, tel. (+48) 71 343 92 75, www. podpapugami.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. T6UEGSW SZAJBA Hidden one courtyard east of Mleczarnia, this large, versatile high-ceilinged club/gallery caters to Wrocław’s large demographic of hipsters who create happenings. Old 50s and 60s radios with glowing gummy bear lamps atop them line the walls above old framed advertisements and prints by local artists. The furnishings, as you can guess, are more of the same attic antiques you find in many such places, with candles and tulips on the tabletops and plenty of room for large groups. Seasonal outdoor seating, an eclectic alternative playlist, extensive exotic drink list and free wifi are just a few more of the reasons Szajba is a great place to pass time; the bar staff are obviously enjoying themselves, as our coffee came with a near-complete tictac-toe board drawn in the foam, waiting for us to place the winning stroke. A great find.QE‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4 (Pasaż Pokoyhof), tel. (+48) 660 40 42 70, www.szajba. wroclaw.pl. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. UGW SZKLARNIA Ofiar Oświęcimskich Street has exploded with hip new venues to become one of Wrocław’s most exciting streets and this may be its most popular hangout at the moment. Bearing all the hallmarks of hipster paradise - pricey craft beers, cool cocktails, groovy music, DIY design, and good eats - they’ve basically taken all the best aspects of their neighbours and combined them here. There’s even a club in the basement on weekends. Dubbed ‘Greenhouse’ (as Szklarnia translates in English) thanks to a glass ceiling, this large space features a long wrap-around bar, lots of natural light, and plenty of plywood and pallets (naturally). A delight by day, things get crowded in the evening when it basically turns into a urban lifestyle blog.QF‑6, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 19, tel. (+48) 575 24 24 56. Open 15:00 01:00, Wed, Thu 15:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. 6GW iyp.me/polandblog

SZYNKARNIA Another in a recent flurry of craft beer houses in Wrocław, Szynkarnia is a hog of a different colour, however. Doing unique double-duty as an ale house and deli counter stocked with fine meats and cheeses, this place is more of a low-key neighbourhood hangout than party headquarters, despite a location bookending Pasaż Niepolda. In addition to the 14 craft brews on draught, try the tasty ‘podpłomyki’ - flatbread filled with the local deli fixings of your choice - delicious! The white-washed timber-fitted space features a cosy antresol and basement as well, and the breakfast and lunch specials warrant return visits to this completely original and relaxed establishment at all times of day.QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48) 793 63 49 94, www.szynkarnia.com.pl. Open 09:00 24:00, Thu 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 6GW TARGOWA CRAFT BEER & FOOD Located in the cellar of Wrocław’s splendid, historical Market Hall (Hala Targowa), Targowa pub serves up a good selection of craft beer brewed both locally and further afield. The prices are a little steeper that elsewhere in the city, but the crowds of jolly booze enthusiasts don’t seem to mind. A selection of greasy pub food is available - ribs, beef cheeks, schnitzel, fried camembert - and special tasting boards let you sample five types of beer (150 mL each) for 30zł.QG‑4, ul. Piaskowa 17, tel. (+48) 533 33 05 51. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. TGSW January – April 2018

Nightlife PASAŻ NIEPOLDA

CLUBS ART CAFE KALAMBUR An artsy bohemian headquarters by day, this tiny Secessionist space becomes one of the sloppiest, most unhinged student clubs in Wrocław on weekends, with the party going on until dawn o’clock. As drunken revellers bump into the DJ booth, the masses writhe to skipping recordings of everything from classic MJ to the Doors to Goran Bregovic. So chock-a-block with shimmying students and hipsters that dancers obstruct the door, so start testing your moves on the approach ‘cause you’re going right into the frying pan, friend.QF‑4, ul. Kuźnicza 29A, tel. (+48) 71 343 92 68, www.kalambur.org. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. UXW

This raucous courtyard (or ‘passageway’) five minutes from the market square is one of Wrocław’s most popular and legendary clubbing destinations. Packed with over a dozen bars and clubs inside a space of less then 50 metres, you almost expect it to be fair game to take your drink with you as you go door to door exploring each one (it’s not). While the venues here change often, some mainstays like Niebo and Bezsenność have been highlights of the city’s drinking scene for what seems like forever. Once a somewhat offbeat alternative to drinking on the market square, in recent years this historic passageway has been renovated and gone full mainstream with banners that welcome tourists and young girls who seem to have forgotten to finish dressing handing out leaflets. An obvious effort to keep some order and crack down on outside drinks is also now being made; to this end gates have been installed at both ends, where you can expect guards to tell you to lose that vodka bottle, and even frisk your purse for whatever else you’ve got squirrelled away. As a result, the neighbouring space in front of the bank at the corner of ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego and ul. Ruska (D-5) has become a total free-for-all of preentry binge drinking. If you favour a quiet drink in sophisticated surroundings, you’ll want to stay as far away from this hedonist haven as possible; Pasaż Niepolda parties all night, sustaining an unprecedented level of energy, noise and sloppiness all the way through to morning. It’s a spectacle that has to be witnessed, though may not be to everyone’s taste, particularly since the quality of bars here has declined of late. Officially addressed at ul. Ruska 51 (D-5), Pasaż Niepolda is just west of the centre in a courtyard connecting Ruska and Św. Antoniego Streets. To find it make your first left off Ruska after crossing ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego (E-6). 52 Wrocław In Your Pocket

BEZSENNOŚĆ (INSOMNIA) Pasaż Niepolda’s longest tenured club and arguably still its best. Wrocław’s sophisticated singles gather amid a decadent background of comfy sofas, stark concrete walls and thrift-store furnishings that balance the romanticism of faded olde world grandeur and the sexiness of an underworld speakeasy. Weekends host legendary dance parties, while work days are more low-key with everything from cool 60s tracks to smoky jazz tunes on the speakers, as well as the common occurrence of some of the city’s top concerts in this venue that good bands seem to go out of their way to try and play in. A must visit.QD‑5, ul. Ruska 51 (Pasaż Niepolda), tel. (+48) 570 66 95 70. Open 19:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. UEX DOMÓWKA If you come on a popular night Domówka is not so much a club, but an experience. Once you’ve gotten past the facecontrol, entrance, security and coat-check you’ll stroll into a packed ballroom-style scene all centred around a massive elevated dance-floor with a hypnotic vibe. The crowd is a bit older and decked-out to be sure, which means there’s eye-candy in every direction and very yuppie prices. The tile and brick wall styling is somehow cheesy and chic at the same time, and the coordinated light displays that continually scan the room will leave you mesmerised on a Friday or Saturday night. Bring your camera, your weekend wallet, and dancing shoes, and Domówka will deliver you to dance-party paradise.QF‑5, Rynek 39, tel. (+48) 508 15 69 12, www.klubdomowka.pl. Open 21:00 - 05:30, Wed 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. XW GREY MUSIC CLUB Wrocław’s most exclusive nightclub, and well worth the payout and pretension required to get inside, as no expense has been spared here in terms of lighting, sound, and design. 50 Shades jokes aside, Grey’s modern minimal space features a fantastic glass atrium space at its centre, perfect for mingling with the cocktail devouring eye candy all around you, while some of the best DJs from PL and abroad annihilate the mature crowd’s ability to do anything other than move on the large dance floor. If you’re not iyp.me/wroclaw

Nightlife convinced that Poles are the most beautiful people in the world, this place will change your mind - if you don’t lose it in an explosion of epileptic ecstasy.QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8, tel. (+48) 887 55 55 22. Open Fri, Sat only 21:00 05:00. XW MAÑANA CAFE Reckoned by many to be the best night out in Wrocław, Mañana is certainly reliable for a raucous weeknight raveup and well-loved by all those who live for long nights. Don’t let the lack of a proper dancefloor prevent you from doing your Travolta - spontaneous outbreaks of disco fever are rife and encouraged. The scruffy furnishings, red lighting and cheeky photos on the wall exemplify the balance between sexiness and silliness embodied by the randy retro-chic clientele, and Mañana’s down-to-earth attitude and funky playlist of favourites from the last 50 years make it one of the most appealing places in the city to squander your brain cells. With the addition of a VIP room and the opening of the large summer terrace there’s now even more space to investigate the lineup of Wrocław’s lookers.QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 343 43 70 , www.mananacafe.pl. Open 17:00 - 04:00, Thu 17:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 07:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. G PRL Comrade Lenin (and his many portraits) invites you to this communist theme bar on the market square brimming with period propaganda, including some frighteningly authentic social realist oil paintings. It looks amazing and the novelty of the place may intrigue tourists who upon coughing up the cover charge are likely to find themselves far out of their element. Not really a nostalgia bar, this veteran dance club never left the Soviet era and 20+ years of democracy has done nothing to dent its popularity. As such you’ll find a bit of an older crowd with wandering hands getting sweaty to PRL-era Polish pop hits and disco polo tracks of seriously dubious musical merit. An effort has been made to appeal to a younger demographic, perhaps, with the addition of inBeer, an in-house smoking room and beer den big on The Big Lebowski. A cultural experience to be sure, and one you should be careful about committing to.QF‑5, Rynek Ratusz 10, tel. (+48) 607 42 95 80, www. prl.wroc.pl. Open 14:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. From March 09:00 - 05:00. EXW SUROWIEC Taking advantage of a superb space created by the Neon Side Foundation - a courtyard filled with salvaged Soviet era neons and street art - Surowiec is a hipster haven with a passion for music, art, good booze, and leafy plants. Chilled out during the day (lounge chairs make an appearance during the warm season) and bursting with energy after dark, this irresistibly hip locale hosts frequent silent discos, art exhibitions, and cultural events ranging from literary discussions to poetry slams to cyanotype workshops. Recommended.QD‑5, ul. Ruska 46A, tel. (+48) 501 62 46 60. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon 18:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 07:00. Closed Sun. 6UNW iyp.me/polandblog

LIVE MUSIC

Vertigo Jazz Club & Restaurant

Photo by Lech Basel

All venues that claim to offer Live Music are marked with a saxophone icon, but in addition to those below, Stary Klasztor, Pod Papugami (p.51) and Nietota (p.50) are particularly worthy of investigation. To find out what specific concerts are happening when you’re in town, check our What’s On section (p.18). FIRLEJ Despite being a bit off the beaten path (or perhaps because of it), this is Wrocław’s best concert house. In-the-know art students and wannabe playwrights fill this legendary venue during live shows. The interiors won’t inspire flights of artistic creativity – you’ll find many hotel bars with more daring decorations – but the atmosphere is electric. Check their website or FB to see what’s on and if you get the opportunity don’t hesitate to catch a show here.QB‑7, ul. Grabiszyńska 56, tel. (+48) 71 795 66 67, www.firlej.wroc.pl. Open only during concerts. Check their website to see what’s on. EGW VERTIGO JAZZ CLUB & RESTAURANT This esteemed music entertainment outfit boasts its own record label, and finally its own venue for hosting almost nightly jazz concerts. Modern in its slick design and acoustic precision, but classic in its intimate atmosphere and Cotton Club appeal, Vertigo is the best jazz club in the region and a nirvana not only for earnest jazz enthusiasts, but also the players, who are complimented with a high-profile ‘Artists’ Lounge’ at stage left. The cocktail prowess of the bar staff is almost over-the-top, and there’s a nice menu of creative European eats to accompany the live music daily starting at 20:30; most concerts are free, and while reservations aren’t necessary, they would be wise.QF‑6, ul. Oławska 13, tel. (+48) 71 335 21 29, www.vertigojazz.pl. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. UEGW January – April 2018

The Market Square | ÂŠ Photocreo Bednarek

WrocĹ&#x201A;aw Sightseeing Built upon dozens of islands, the river is never far away - nor is an eye-opening view. From ancient architecture to modish murals and Soviet-era neons, WrocĹ&#x201A;aw has it all and more; so put that drink down and go discover all there is to see and do in this incredible city.

Sightseeing Of all the cities in Poland, Wrocław possesses perhaps the most convoluted and turbulent history of them all. Known under dozens of different names as it was passed repeatedly between four countries (and the numerous kingdoms that preceded them), Wrocław was one of the most culturally and architecturally diverse cities in Central Europe before being reduced to rubble a mere 70-odd years ago. As the city proudly and painstakingly rebuilt itself, the post-war period saw a new wave of migrants from today’s western Ukraine enrich not only Wrocław’s ethnic makeup, but also its cultural wealth as many cultural treasures from Lwów were transplanted here. Since shedding the yoke of communism in 1989 and being ‘rediscovered’ by the west, Wrocław has firmly established itself among Prague and Kraków as one of Eastern Europe’s top tourist destinations and one of the undisputed highlights of Poland.

WHAT TO SEE If we think about Wrocław’s city centre in terms of districts, there are three essential areas that visitors shouldn’t allow themselves to miss. The first is obviously the Old Town, with the marvellously restored Market Square at its centre and its maze of cobbled streets, canals, bridges, and church spires. Essentially bound by the Oder River to the north and the Fosa Miejska - or city moat - to the south, this area that was once encircled by the city’s medieval defensive walls is where you’ll find the bulk of Wrocław’s historical monuments and museums, as well as many beautiful University buildings, soaring churches, and the city’s infamous gnomes. The Old Town also includes the ‘District of Mutual Respect’ (E-6/D-5/6) - a unique neighbourhood southwest of the market square which includes almost side by side the places of worship of four different denominations, including the city’s only surviving Jewish synagogue.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App The Old Town may be the heart of Wrocław, but its soul is in Ostrów Tumski (H/I-3, p.64). This ‘Cathedral Island’ within easy walking distance northeast of the market square was the first part of Wrocław to be settled by Slavic tribes in the 9th century. Since a bishopric was built there in 1000AD it has remained an important place of royal and religious significance, and home to the city’s most important Cathedral. Finally, no visit to Wrocław is complete without a trip east of the Old Town to Centennial Hall (N-6, p.68). The city’s only UNESCO World Heritage site, this outstanding piece of architecture turned 100 in 2013 and is surrounded by beautiful parks and gardens, including Wrocław’s Zoo and a spectacular multimedia fountain. Enjoy exploring Wrocław. iyp.me/polandblog

WAIT, WHERE AM I?

Woodcut of ‘Bressla’ from the Nuremburg Chronicle, 1493

As a city under constantly shifting rule, Wrocław has been known by many names throughout its history. In fact, the national status of Wrocław has changed more often than any other city in Europe. Passing hands from the Polish Piasts (1000-1335), to the Kingdom of Bohemia (1335-1526), to the Austrian Habsburgs (1526-1741), to the Kingdom of Prussia (1741-1871), into the German Empire and Third Reich (1871-1945), and finally back to Poland (1945-today, and hopefully tomorrow as well), Wrocław cannot be claimed as the by-rights homeland of any one nation or people (despite the past efforts of politically motivated revisionist historians to prove otherwise. The city’s makeup has always been culturally and religiously diverse, with Poles, Germans, Bohemians, Austrians and Jews all making significant contributions to Wrocław’s development. With so many influences and upheavals, Wrocław (as we know it today) has seen more than its fair share of names used in common parlance throughout the years, including Vratislava, Wrotizla, Wretslaw, Vraclav, Vretslav, Prezlav, Presslaw and Bresslau (to name but a few). It’s not uncommon today to still see and hear Wrocław referred to by its old German name, ‘Breslau’, particularly by and for the German nostalgia tourists who come here to seek their roots. The Polish name ‘Wrocław’ apparently predates the German name, and is thought to have been derived from the name of the Czech sovereign ‘Vratislav’. Variants of the German name began appearing in documents shortly after Poland lost control of the region in 1335. Some sources claim that Frederick the Great changed the city’s name to Breslau in 1741, though this is subject to historical dispute. The problem of Wrocław’s complex titular nomenclature was a challenge historian Norman Davies tackled when writing his thorough history of the city; Davies eventually settled on ‘Microcosm’ as the title of his excellent book in acknowledgement of the city’s standing as a constant crossroads for Eastern European cultures and concerns, and the unfairness of putting such a wide-ranging study under a title with a limited representation of its history. And while the temptation to re-title this little tome ‘Microcosm In Your Pocket’ is ever-present, we’ve got enough connotative problems as it is… January – April 2018

Sightseeing RACŁAWICE PANORAMA This unique 15 by 140m panoramic painting depicts the first battle of the Kościuszko Uprising, in which General Tadeusz Kościuszko orchestrated and led an armed peasant rebellion against Russian rule in a heroic bid for Polish independence in 1794. Kosciuszko’s rag-tag scythe-wielding troops won the day, but the Uprising was ultimately doomed and Poland wouldn’t be truly self-governing until the 20th century. That hasn’t stopped the short-lived victory from being an enduring source of Polish pride to this day, however. The Panorama was created in a burst of patriotic fervour by Jan Styka and Wojciech Kossak in Lwów over 9 months, and completed in 1894. Their work, displayed in a rotunda built especially for it, was a popular - and financial - success. After WWII, the Soviet Union, which absorbed Lwów (now Lviv, Ukraine), sent the painting to Wrocław. Its subject, however, was a bit too nationalistic for the local Communist authorities, who rejected several bids to display it. The current building was completed in 1967, but the Panorama itself was not installed for display until 1985. Unfortunately almost nothing has changed since then, and the over-priced attraction is run in the same manner it was 30 years ago. Still, an unbelievable 1,600 people (including dozens of school groups) file through each day, so don’t expect to just walk right in; admission occurs every half-hour and you’ll very likely have to wait. The painting is augmented with lights and artificial terrain to make the experience more ‘real’ as you are narrated through the battle by a taped lecture on your own private headset which is available in an astounding 17 languages (including Esperanto). Poles will consider it their patriotic duty to come here, but the experience may resonate less positively with other tourists, unless you’re a fan of obscure and forgotten genres of 19th century art.QH‑5, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 71 344 23 44, www.panoramaraclawicka. pl. Open 09:00 - 16:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:30, Sun 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. From April open 08:00 - 19:30. Admission 30/23zł, family ticket 23zł per person, children under 7 free. U

GUIDED TOURS FREE WALKING TOUR FOUNDATION This outfit offers free English-language walking tours of the Old Town (10:00 daily, 13:30 Fri-Sun), ‘WWII and Jewish Wrocław’ (14:00 Mon, Wed, Fri-Sun), and our favourite, ‘Dwarfs and Communists’ (14:00 Tue, Thu) . All tours leave from beside the Fredro monument on the market square; just look for the ‘Free Walking Tours’ sign and have some cash ready to tip these fine people at the tour’s conclusion. Check their website for additional tours, like a ‘Craft Beers of Wrocław’ crawl, Saturdays at 16:30 (this one you do need to pay for, however). Tours subject to change starting in April. Qtel. (+48) 513 87 58 14, www.freewalkingtour.com. TOURCITY PANORAMA This outfit offers personalised sightseeing tours around Wrocław in their fleet of comfortable electric cars. Standard tours of the Old Town last an hour, while a 90-minute tour is a good way to get out to Centennial Hall and the Zoo. Tours are available in English, Polish and German. The best way to contact them at the moment is by email: wroctours@ gmail.com. Keep in mind that tour availability in winter is weather dependent.QH‑5, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 728 97 90 70, www.tourcitypanorama.pl. WRATISLAVIA TOUR This outfit organises airport transfers, walking tours, and golf cart tours of the Old Town. Tours around Lower Silesia and out of town are also available, as are less traditional tours and activities like shooting, laser tag, culinary workshops, and bird watching. Reservations can be made by phone or online.QF‑5, tel. (+48) 793 15 43 30, www. wratislaviatour.com. Tours in English, 350zł. WROCŁAW CITY TOURS With over 30 different tours of Wrocław and Silesia available, these folks can arrange golf cart tours, river cruises, whatever you want. Tours available in English, German, and Russian starting at 269zł (plus Polish starting at 229zł). Call at least 5h in advance to set up your tour.Qul. Gajowa 62A, tel. (+48) 513 94 69 46, www.wroclawcitytour.pl.

Detail of Kościuszko directing his rag-tag army.

56 Wrocław In Your Pocket

iyp.me/wroclaw

Sightseeing WROCŁAW SIGHTSEEING TOURS This tour company organises a range of thematic tours (in various languages), including Wrocław’s city centre, Lower Silesia, Secrets of WWII, a local flavours tasting tour, Bolesławiec, Auschwitz, Kraków, Wieliczka, Częstochowa, and more. They also offer what we think is the first Great Escape Tour to the legendary POW camp at Żagań.Qtel. (+48) 698 90 01 23, www.wroclawsightseeingtours.com.

SKY TOWER

Full contents online: wroclaw.inyourpocket.com WROCŁAW - SILESIA TOURS Demonstrating Wrocław’s diversity with theme tours that trace the city’s different cultures and religions, Wrocław Silesia Tours offer tours around the city in golf carts, mini-vans, historic trams, or on foot. They can also take you to places a bit further afield such as Książ, Świdnica, Jelenia Góra, or the former concentration camps at Gross-Rosen and Auschwitz. Tours available in English, German, Spanish, and Portuguese. Call one day in advance to negotiate prices.QF‑4, tel. (+48) 509 96 00 34, www.wroclawsilesiatours.pl.

TOURIST INFORMATION LOWER SILESIAN CULTURAL INFORMATION CENTREQF‑5, Rynek - Ratusz 24, tel. (+48) 71 342 22 91, www.dcik.pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TOURIST INFORMATION All sorts of tourist paraphernalia (maps, brochures) and advice can be obtained here.QF‑5, ul. Sukiennice 12, tel. (+48) 71 342 28 98, www.wroclaw-info.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. TOURIST INFORMATION - WROCŁAW AIRPORT Grab some maps and info right out of the gate at the Wrocław Airport tourist information point. Convenient!Qul. Graniczna 190, tel. (+48) 519 50 93 36, www.dot.org.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00. TOURIST INFORMATION - WROCŁAW GŁÓWNY QF‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 105, tel. (+48) 519 50 93 37, www.dot.org.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00. TOURIST INFORMATION - WROCŁAW ZOO Helpful staff, maps, and copies of Wrocław In Your Pocket (wink) right outside the Wrocław Zoo and across the street from the Centennial Hall.QN‑6, ul. Wróblewskiego 1-5, tel. (+48) 605 57 80 10, www. dot.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00 Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 16:00. From March open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. From April open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. iyp.me/polandblog

Completed in 2012, Wrocław boasts the tallest building in Poland (by most measures), which rises some 212m into the atmosphere. Comprising a small city in and of itself, with residential apartments, offices, shops, restaurants, entertainment and more over its 50 floors, tourists have plenty of reasons to visit this modern architectural marvel, including the largest pool hall in PL, a 24-lane bowling alley (see Leisure), an over-sized Salvador Dali sculpture, and an amazing interactive installation of 60 screens that react to the movement of visitors as they engage the 40m2 exhibit on the first floor (note though that this isn’t always running). The highlight, however, is the year-round indoor viewing point on the 49th floor. At a height of 200 metres, this is the highest panoramic view point in Poland, and accessed by an elevator which whisks you to the top in less than a minute. Located only minutes from the Old Town, take trams 7 or 20, getting off at ‘Wielka.’QC‑9, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 95, www.galeria.skytower. pl. View point open 09:00 - 20:30, Fri, Sat 09:00 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30. Access is granted every 30mins on the :00 and :30 marks. Ticket office open 08:45 - 20:30, Sun 09:45 - 19:30. View point admission 12/8zł, children 3 and under free. Ticket office on level +1; clearly marked signs will guide you there. N January – April 2018

Sightseeing NEON WROCŁAW

Communist Poland typically calls to mind a cold, colourless landscape of uniform concrete drabness essentially the antithesis of energetic and illuminated Times Square or Las Vegas, the very pinnacles of capitalist decadence and indecency. The little known irony here, however, is that neon signage - which is most closely associated with American commercialism and consumerism - was actually prolific in the People’s Republic of Poland during the Cold War era. After Socialist Realism died with Stalin in the late 50s, a new, less restricted period of creative expression began in Poland, and neon rather oddly became the favoured medium of city authorities looking for an inexpensive way to brighten the grey urban landscape and create a veneer of economic prosperity at a time when stores shelves were practically bare. During the ‘neonisation’ programme of the 1960s and ‘70s, the country’s most gifted architects and graphic designers were commissioned to create unique neon advertising for everything from Polish products and state-run companies to cultural landmarks like cinemas, theatres, nightclubs, and train stations. Though the collapse of the communist economy meant the plug got pulled on the country’s neons back in the late ‘70s, today neon is back in vogue and the country’s signs are being restored. Neon greets visitors immediately upon arrival throughout the Wrocław train station (G-8), and the famous ‘Dobry Wieczór we Wrocławiu’ (Good Evening in Wrocław) sign across the street is there to welcome you as soon as you step foot outside (G-8). Other famous Soviet-era neons include the entrance gate of the Wrocław Zoo (N-7) and the animated antics of the burglar atop the PZU building on Plac Kościuszki (E-7), while the modern, hand-scripted sign of the Academy of Fine Arts (ul. Traugutta 19/21, H-6) encapsulates the comeback this art form has made in recent years. The coolest place on Wrocław’s neon map, however, is the Neon Side outdoor gallery located in a courtyard at ul. Ruska 46C (D-5), which gathers numerous salvaged neon signs in one place. On our website you’ll find all of Wrocław’s most electrifying neons listed with GPS coordinates so you can use the mobile version of our website (wroclaw.inyourpocket.com) on your smartphone to easily go out and get your ne-on. 58 Wrocław In Your Pocket

MUSEUMS ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM Like many of the best museums in Poland, Wrocław’s Archaeological Museum is located inside a building that’s a museum in itself. In this instance the city’s former 15thcentury Arsenal plays host to the usual suspects found lurking in most museums of its type. There are English captions now for many exhibits, while others, such as the gargoyles and the reconstructed thatched house fascinate without the need to know more. With four free permanent exhibits - Stone Age and early Bronze Age, Bronze Age, Iron Age and Medieval Silesia, displays include everyday objects from these times such as weapons, ornaments and tools; note that temporary exhibits sometimes require an additional paid ticket. In the same building you’ll also find the Military Museum.QE‑4, ul. Cieszyńskiego 9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 96, www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free. U ARCHITECTURE MUSEUM Located inside a gorgeous 16th century monastery, the city’s ‘architecture museum’ is actually more of a decorative and applied arts museum, with much of the collections consisting of decorative details from the built environment that were lost during WWII. Permanent displays include beautiful examples of stained glass from the 12th century to the Art Nouveau era, a collection of tiled ceramic stoves, intricate door handles, and a selection of truly ghastly gargoyles. Keeps your eyes peeled for occasional temporary exhibits as well, which usually require an admission fee.QH‑5, ul. Bernardyńska 5, tel. (+48) 71 344 82 78, www.ma.wroc.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free for permanent exhibits. U ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM Located outside the Old Town in the gorgeous 18thcentury Neo-Baroque summer palace of Wrocław’s bishops, this under-appreciated museum traces Silesian folk culture and customs. The best part may be the top floor where life-sized dolls are arranged in quaint scenes of life in the region before 1945. It won’t take you long to see it, but the national costumes and farm equipment offer a glimpse of life you won’t find in urban Wrocław. And the museum’s strange fondness for the definite article in the English labels is worth a giggle. To get there take tram 3 from ‘Rynek,’ getting off at ‘Pl. Zgody.’QJ‑8, ul. Traugutta 111/113, tel. (+48) 71 344 33 13, www.muzeumetnograficzne. pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/8zł, children under 7 free, groups of over 10 pay 5zł per person, Sat free. Admission free with a ticket to the Racławice Panorama. UN

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Sightseeing NATIONAL MUSEUM Located in a gorgeous ivy-covered Dutch Neo-Renaissance building from the 19th century, Wrocław’s National Museum houses one of the largest collections of Polish art. Within the breath-taking interiors, the four permanent exhibits are: Silesian Art of the 12-16th centuries (including lots of stone sculpture work and medieval religious art), Silesian Art of the 16-19th centuries (covering the Renaissance up to the beginnings of Modernism), Polish Art of the same period (including national artefacts and historical paintings by Gierymski, Grottger, Malczewski and Matejko), and European Art of the 15-20th centuries (following the leading artistic movements with work by Pieter Brueghel the Younger, Agnolo Bronzino, Cosimo Rosselli, Raphael’s father Giovanni Santi, and Wassily Kandinsky). While the collections may not be the best in Europe, there is a certain aura to the setting that makes this a must for art history buffs.QI‑5, Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 51 50, www.mnwr.art. pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. From April open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł for permanent exhibition, students under 26 (with ID) 1zł, family/ group 10zł per person, Sat free. 10/5zł for temporary exhibition, family/group 7zł per person, combined ticket 25/17zł. Admission free with a ticket from the nearby Racławice Panorama. U

KONSPIRA

National Museum

PAN TADEUSZ MUSEUM Find out more than you ever thought you would about Polish bard Adam Mickiewicz (and his times) at this new, more inviting branch of Wrocław’s Ossolineum, occupying some prime market square real estate with super-modern, multi-lingual, multimedia museum exhibits. Pride of place goes to the original manuscript of Mickiewicz’s epic poem Pan Tadeusz (from which the museum takes its name), surrounded by hundreds of historical objects, digital documents and photos, 3D animation and augmented reality displays - a fantastic way to learn about Romantic era Poland, even if you have little interest in poetry itself. Other exhibits focus on 20th-century history via the life stories of Polish patriots Jan Nowak-Jeziorański and Władysław Bartoszewski, who both left large collections to the Ossolineum upon their iyp.me/polandblog

In addition to being a fantastic Polish restaurant, Konspira is a self-declared ‘Centre for Historical Education.’ The interior is designed to emulate the 1980s, while giving guests a glimpse into the Soviet era via newspapers, posters, political cartoons and other iconography on the walls.In fact, one of the restaurant’s wardrobes is actually a secret passageway into a hidden room that recreates an ‘80s Polish apartment, filled with everyday household items, toys, appliances, and even police batons and riot gear from the martial law days. It’s a unique look into the past, and the fact that the staff isn’t that forthcoming about it (you might have to ask) almost makes the act of entry feel cooly clandestine. This entire establishment is a bit of a museum, and though you’ll get more out of it with a local guide, even without one it’s worth investigating; and the food is certainly worth staying for.QE‑5, Pl. Solny 11, tel. (+48) 796 32 66 00, www.konspira.org. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. January – April 2018

Sightseeing passing. A limited number of free audioguides will be available to augment the exhibits.QE‑5, Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 71 755 06 00, www.muzeumpanatadeusza.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 20/10zł or 12/6zł to see only the manuscript. Sun 1zł.

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PARTISAN HILL If you’re walking along ul. Ks. Skargi it’s impossible to miss the grandiose crescent-shaped structure rising above Most Skargi. One of the few remaining fortifications that once protected the Old Town from invasion, Partisan Hill was built between 1594 and 1598, and originally awarded the name ‘Bastion Sakwowy’ (Saddlebag Bastion). The buildings you see today date from the 19th century, however, when the area was redeveloped as public recreational space. A fearsome tower designed by Berlin architect Carl Schmidt was added in 1867, though this was demolished during WWII to prevent advancing Russian troops from using it as a reference point for artillery shelling. At the start of the Siege of 1945 the subterranean bunkers and catacombs were used as HQ by Nazi high command, though they relocated in March 1945 as the Red Army drew closer. After the war the hillock was oddly rechristened ‘Partisan Hill’ and the old cellars temporarily housed a museum. Sadly sold to private investors in the 1990s, and having since been occupied by beer gardens and strip clubs, today the area lies in complete disarray, forlorn and forgotten. Partisan Hill’s legends of Nazi tunnels and medieval torture chambers, combined with the wind-swept loneliness of the site today, make this place a must for those who enjoy the thrill of urban trespassing.QG‑7, ul. Ks. Skargi. 60 Wrocław In Your Pocket

THE DEPOT HISTORY CENTRE This old bus depot has been brilliantly transformed into a two-floor museum telling the history of Wrocław after WWII. Opened in September 2016, the large open space has been cleverly refitted with intimate museum displays that recreate historical spaces and settings to lead the viewer through major moments in Poland’s postwar history. The rebuilding and repopulating of Wrocław is well-covered, as is the country’s reckoning with communism, martial law, and the story of the Solidarity movement. The modern multimedia displays are extremely informative in English and Polish, and in addition to the permanent exhibit (titled ‘Wrocław 19452016’), there are also changing temporary exhibits, an outdoor gallery and a play area for kids. Reserve at least 90mins for the exhibits, and don’t miss the restaurant, which serves delicious traditional Polish food in People’s Republic style - the pierogi are some of the best in town. Located well southwest of the Old Town, it’s only appropriate that you should take public transportation here (ideally the number 4 tram from ‘Świdnicka,’ getting off at ‘Bzowa (Centrum Zajezdnia)’; journey takes 20mins. Qul. Grabiszyńska 184, tel. (+48) 71 715 96 02, www. zajezdnia.org. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 17:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł. U THE HENRYK TOMASZEWSKI MUSEUM OF THEATHER This brand-new museum is dedicated to the history of theatre in Wrocław, with a special focus on one of its brightest stars - dancer, mime, and stage director Henryk Tomaszewski, who founded the Pantomime Studio (later renamed as the Wrocław Theatre of Pantomime) in 1956. Located in the southern wing of the Royal Palace, the museum’s permanent exhibits include reconstructions of Tomaszewski’s apartment and the office of theatre historian Professor Janusz Degler, including his impressive collection of theatre-related books, while a temporary exhibition showcases the atelier of photographer Stefan Arczyński, who collaborated closely with Tomaszewski and his troupe.QA‑4, Plac Wolności 7A, tel. (+48) 793 80 44 12, www.en.muzeum.miejskie.wroclaw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free for permanent exhibitions, 15/10zł for temporary exhibitions. THE ROYAL PALACE, HISTORY MUSEUM The main branch of the Wrocław City Museum, housed inside the renovated Baroque Royal Palace, is Wrocław’s most essential, and, arguably, best museum. Purchased by Frederick the Great of Prussia in 1750, the palace was iyp.me/wroclaw

Sightseeing converted to become the royal residence of the Prussian Hohenzolern kings - a function which it served from the 17th to 20th century. Badly damaged during WWII, only half of the structure survived and now houses three free permanent exhibitions: ‘1000 Years of Wrocław’, tracing the complex history of the Lower Silesian capital from the Middle Ages to the modern day through its art and artefacts; the meticulously recreated royal apartments; and the unique Beyersdorf Room, decorated entirely in Dutch tiles from the 17th century. It takes the better part of a day to see it all, but there’s a nice cafe when you need a break, and make sure you don’t miss the regal Baroque gardens behind the palace.QE‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 35, tel. (+48) 71 391 69 40, www. mmw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission free for permanent exhibits. Englishspeaking guided tour 400zł. Audio guides in English and German 10 zł. U

WROCŁAW CONTEMPORARY MUSEUM This old air raid shelter just west of the Old Town has been resurrected as a place for contemporary art in Wrocław. The round and concrete above-ground bunker has been cleverly adapted with an elevator at its centre which whizzes you up to the fantastic 6th floor cafe, which features a terrace and great views, and may just be the highlight of visiting here. As for the art, the permanent exhibit focuses on contemporary art from the 20th century with a strong Wrocław presence and they have numerous temporary exhibitions (see our Culture & Events section to see what’s on). The most striking pieces in the whole collection are outside the museum itself. Local artist Stanisław Dróżdż’s Hour-glass on the facade of the building and the amazing and enormous Train to Heaven sculpture of a vertical locomotive nearby will make you get your camera out. To get there, hop on trams 3, 10, 20, 23, or 33 (quite a bit of choice there) at the ‘Rynek’ stop, getting off 3 stops later at ‘Pl. Strzegomski.’QPl. Strzegomski 2A (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, www.muzeumwspolczesne.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission free for permanent exhibits; temporary exhibits 10/5zł, family ticket 15zł, Thu admission free. U iyp.me/polandblog

STREET ART

Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art (check out Wrocław’s Polish Poster Gallery at ul. Św. Mikołaja 54/55, D-5, if you want proof ), but when it comes to public street graffiti, too often it steers closer to ‘vandalism,’ rarely graduating beyond slurs, gang signs and football allegiances. Thanks to a strong underground art community, however, visitors to Wrocław will encounter plenty of urban space that has been elaborately decorated with street art that strives to be just that: art. In fact, thanks to its own initiative of embracing rather than rejecting the trend, Wrocław has made itself a veritable destination for large-scale street art. Today the city is decorated with dozens of highly visible murals in public space, and with that number growing all the time, urban art has emerged as a legitimate attraction in the city. Formerly a strictly underground art form, things started to change in 2008 when the curators of the city’s vanguard Galeria Awangarda organised Poland’s first street art festival (dubbed ‘Out of Sth’) by inviting 20 of Europe’s biggest names in urban art to do installations throughout Wrocław. A year later cult culture hangout Niskie Łąki helped organise the first Pink Piknik Festival, filling the entire courtyard between ul. Ruska and ul. Św. Antoniego (D-5) with colourful art. Further editions of Out of Sth followed in 2010 and 2012, and with Wrocław University and the city itself (as part of its European Capital of Culture 2016 programme) also contributing commissions, Wrocław has strongly secured its status as Poland’s street art capital. Those with an interest in street art will have no problem tracking down some of the city’s finest examples and we’re making it even easier. In the maps of our print guide you’ll find many of Wrocław’s most visible murals so you can marked with spray paint can icon literally use them to give yourself a self-guided tour of the city’s mural art. We encourage you to do just that and check out some of Wrocław’s alternative artistic visions. January – April 2018

Sightseeing HYDROPOLIS

PLACES OF INTEREST WATER TOWER Modelled on a medieval castle, this architectural masterpiece only a short tram ride south of the centre shouldn’t be missed. Originally designed by Karl Klimm, an eminent Breslau architect and the brains behind the Zwierzyniecki Bridge (J-4), the 63m tower was completed in 1905 and supplied water to the residents of southern Wrocław, with the base of the building used to house employees. From its beginnings this fairytale tower was equipped with an electric lift to whisk visitors to the top for panoramic views; costing 10 pfennigs, a clear day would afford sightseers uninterrupted views of the Sudety Mountains 100km away, and a red flag would wave from the top whenever viewing was deemed particularly good.

Just about halfway between the Old Town and the Centennial Hall you’ll find a 1893 neo-Gothic water tank turned high-tech multimedia museum dedicated - most appropriately - to the very stuff it used to hold. Divided into eight thematic parts and started off with a short 360-degree film which takes you from the Big Bang to nucleosynthesis to the formation of planets to the origin of Earth’s aqua, Hydropolis is a friendlyfor-all-ages discovery zone where visitors can peek at creatures found in a drop of water, spin an Archimedes’ screw, sit in a replica of the Trieste bathyscaphe, which made a descent to the bottom of the Mariana Trench in 1960, or kick back in the sea-sounds-andbioluminescent-jellyfish relaxation space. Informative and impressively designed, this is one experience we wholeheartedly recommend. To get here, take tram number 3 from Rynek or Galeria Dominikańska to pl. Zgody, then backtrack a bit and turn right on ul. Szybka; you’ll cross a small bridge before hitting ul. Na Grobli, at which point the museum will be on your right. QK‑7, ul. Na Grobli 19-21, tel. (+48) 71 340 95 15, www.hydropolis.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 27/18zł, family ticket 72zł.

Photo by Jar.ciurus, CC-BY-SA-3.0

During the 1945 Siege of Breslau the tower served as a military observation point, and in spite of heavy shelling in the immediate vicinity survived largely unscathed. Up until the 80s it continued to function as a water plant, though black with soot and pockmarked with bullet holes. In 1995 it was purchased by Stephan Elektronik Investment and restored it to its former glory. Based on a design by Wacław Bieniasz-Necholson, countless cash was committed to the project, its rejuvenation as a city icon completed with the addition of a bistro and restaurant - unfortunately now closed. To get there hop on tram numbers 2, 6 or 7, getting off at the ‘Hallera’ stop.QC‑12, ul. Sudecka 125A. 62 Wrocław In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing

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January â&#x20AC;&#x201C; April 2018

Ostrów Tumski

View from the tower of Wrocław Cathedral. | © Grzegorz Polak, AdobeStock

Playing soul to the Rynek’s heart, Ostrów Tumski is the gem at the centre of Wrocław’s crown. This, after all, is where the city began, making it one of the most historically significant parts of town, in addition to its most archaically picturesque. The district’s history has always been closely tied to Catholicism and today you’ll find an incredible concentration of religious buildings across the river, making it an incredibly peaceful place to explore and relax. During the latter part of the 9th century what is now known as Ostrów Tumski (the name means ‘Cathedral Island’ in Polish) was settled by a Slavic tribe, the Ślężanie, who considered the island impregnable. The first bishopric in Lower Silesia soon followed in 1000, and for the next two and a half centuries Ostrów Tumski was the centre of Wrocław before the marauding Tartars proved they could indeed make it pregnant (so to speak); pregnant with fire and ruin, that is. After its destruction, the city’s nucleus shifted across the river where its development would be less restricted by rivers. Ostrów Tumski, meanwhile, became

a place of almost exclusively religious and royal (the Piast Dynasty built a castle here in the 1260s) significance. With a few exceptions it remains primarily a place of worship and reflection to this day; as such, there are few shops, dwellings, cafes, bars and restaurants, and the Wrocław Archdiocese occupies almost all of the beautifully maintained classical buildings you will see. One of the first things observant visitors may notice is that though Ostrów Tumski is indeed accessed from central Wrocław by bridge, it is not actually an island. It was until the 19th century, but persistent flooding led town planners to fill in one of the Odra’s tributaries in 1810 (though the city has sadly seen its share of floods since then as well). Seemingly miles from the bustle of Rynek, perhaps the real joy of Ostrów Tumski is its other-worldly feel. Katedralna and Idziego Streets both provide cobbled reminders of the past - Idziego especially, though it lacks the postcard worthy sights of Katedralna, is a particularly gorgeous street, still lit today by original gas lamps and providing the perfect frame for a picturesque, romantic evening stroll. Keep your eyes peeled at dusk for the district’s famous lamplighter as he goes about his daily duty of lighting Ostów Tumski’s gas lamps by hand.

WHAT TO SEE

Ostow Tumski

64 Wrocław In Your Pocket

A visit to this lovely, peaceful part of Wrocław rightly begins at Most Piaskowy (Sand Bridge, C-2). This is the oldest bridge in Wrocław, built in 1861 and an engineering marvel, if no great shakes on the design front. The original bridge, built back in the 11th century, was part of the ancient trade route - the Amber Road, which led from the Baltic Sea to iyp.me/wroclaw

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Vienna, and thence to Venice. As you walk along ul. Jadwigi you will pass the Russian Orthodox Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius, the Baroque-era University Library, and the Gothic Church of the Blessed Virgin on the Sand, famous for its 16th century icon of the Virgin Mary in the northern nave. From here the beloved, iron, 1890-built Most Tumski (Tumski Bridge, C-2) leads you across to the oldest part of the city; look out for the statues of St. Jadwiga (Hedwig), Silesia’s patron saint, and John the Baptist, Wrocław’s patron, at the head of the bridge. Also of note are the padlocks placed on the bridge by newlyweds to symbolise the unbreakable bond they share going forward in life together. Following ul. Katedralna from there you’ll first come across the Church of Saints Peter & Paul before reaching the impressive monument of John of Nepomuk standing beneath the Church of the Holy Cross, a rare two-level church with two separate parishes. Continuing down picturesque ul. Katedralna you’ll pass two of the neighbourhood’s only places to rest and refuel - Cafeterie Chic at Katedralna 6 and Lwia Brama2 at Katedralna 9 - before standing beneath the beautiful Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (D-2), famous for its stunning stained glass windows and 16th century altarpiece. To the right of the main portal is the Archbishop’s Palace (ul. Katedralna 13), while behind the Cathedral you’ll find and the Archdiocese Museum.

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EAT & DRINK CAFETERIE CHIC This might just be the quintessential Wrocław café. Search for it (which you must, it is well-disguised) near the Church of the Holy Cross on Ostrów Tumski, and enter a world of marbled floors, tiny little tables, period lamps, and the dreamiest apple pie with raspberry sauce in Poland. Popular with ladies of a certain age who have little to do except visit cafes and eat what they would call ‘naughty’ cakes, it’s nonetheless one of our favourite places in Wrocław.QH‑4, ul. Katedralna 6, tel. (+48) 71 327 13 55, www.hotel-jp2.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. G LWIA BRAMA2 One of the few places you’ll actually find anything to eat if you’re strolling Ostrów Tumski, Lwia Brama2 offers some great sidewalk seating in the warmer months from which you can enjoy a drink or a meal while waiting for the lamplighter to come round and perform that most romantic of Wrocław rituals - the daily lighting of the district’s gaslamps. In winter the historic underground cellars aren’t as cold and sprawling as you might expect, and they also serve as a gallery for local artists (all paintings are for sale). The menu here sticks to Polish and European standards, with some dishes prepared in the sous-vide method. QH‑4, ul. Katedralna 9, tel. (+48) 793 89 39 09, www.restauracjalwiabrama.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. (38-72zł). T6GSW January – April 2018

Ostrów Tumski THE LAMPLIGHTER

St. Martin’s Church

Photo by Kriskros, CC-BY-SA-3.0

CHURCH OF SAINTS PETER & PAUL Crossing Tumski Bridge from Wyspa Piasek (Sand Island), this is the first church you’ll encounter on Ostrów Tumski. Original construction of this Gothic brick church took nearly 50 years between 1404 and 1452, only to see it destroyed by two fires, rebuilt, and then 40% obliterated during Festung Breslau. Reconstructed in the 1950s, the accuracy of the interior has since been disputed. Though you’ll find the front doors open in the summer, getting past the inner gates to see the church in detail is possible by prior arrangement only.QH‑4, ul. Katedralna, tel. (+48) 71 327 13 33. Open by prior arrangement. Lamplighter has to be one of the world’s most charmingly antiquated, unique and romantic occupations, right up there with town crier, court jester, lighthouse keeper, castle drawbridge operator and… well, IYP editor, of course. Up until and even throughout the 19th century, when candle or gas streetlamps were still the norm, lamplighter was a prolific and wellrespected job. In those pre-Edison days it was the lamplighter’s job to go around town at dusk igniting a city’s streetlamps, and then extinguishing them again at dawn; while on patrol, the lamplighter often served a dual role as town watchman. Today having a degree in lamplighting won’t do much for your CV; in fact, to our knowledge, Wrocław is one of only two cities in Europe that still employs a lamplighter (the other being Brest, Belarus). The first gas lantern was lit in Wrocław in 1846 and gas streetlamps were common throughout the city even after the war and up until the 1960s when they were replaced in the Old Town. Fortunately those on Ostrów Tumski – Wrocław’s Cathedral Island – survived modernisation and the tradition of the Wrocław lamplighter is carried on to this day. 365 days a year this gentleman can be seen at dusk in his unique cape and top hat lighting the 103 gas lamps in the district. With a butane cartridge discreetly hidden under his cloak, the lamplighter uses a pole to ignite the lamps and a hook attachment to extinguish them each morning. Catching him in the jolly act is not only easy to do if you’re exploring the area in the evening, but also a prerequisite for camera-wielding tourists. 66 Wrocław In Your Pocket

ST. MARTIN’S CHURCH This tiny and somewhat irregularly shaped brick church is all that remains of the Piast dynasty’s 13th-century Royal Castle, which once stood on the island. St. Martin’s too, however, was largely rebuilt in the 15th and 20th centuries. Before WWII the church was a centre of Polish culture in a primarily German city. Poles gathered here to hear sermons and sing hymns in their own language. The last Polish mass under Nazi oppression was held here in 1939. A plaque outside reads in part, “We are Poles... A Pole is a brother to a Pole... Poland is our mother, we cannot speak badly of our mother.” Outside St. Martin’s stands a massive monument to Pope John XXIII, placed here in 1986.QH‑4, ul. Św. Marcina. Open only during mass (Sundays at 10:00).

Bishop’s Palace

Photo by Aw58, CC-BY-SA-3.0

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Ostrów Tumski CHURCH OF THE HOLY CROSS / ST. BARTHOLOMEW’S One of Ostrów Tumski’s most beautiful and iconic structures, thanks to a 70m steeple and impressive entry staircase, this curious sanctuary is actually two churches in one. Split over two levels, the building comprises the shorter windows of the Church of St. Bartholomew beneath the soaring windows of the upper level Church of the Holy Cross - unfortunately only the lower level is currently open. The first two-storey church in Silesia, and one of only a few in all of Europe, the church was completed in 1295 as an act of reconciliation ending a long dispute between Duke Henry IV and Bishop Thomas II. For centuries the sarcophagus of Henry IV was housed in the upper Church of the Holy Cross, however today it can be seen on display in the National Museum. Standing outside the church is a large sculpture of John of Nepomuk dating from 1732. As of now no special time is allotted for visiting purposes, so sneak in during mass if you’re so inclined.QH‑4, Plac Kościelny, tel. (+48) 71 322 25 74, www.katedra.archidiecezja.wroc.pl. Open during mass only.

NAVE SCULPTURE

This unique, op-artish metal sculpture popped up on Wyspa Daliowa last June, marking the end of revitalisation works on the smallest of Wrocław’s clustered islands. The artist, Oskar Zięta, created the structure using the so-called FiDU method, a process he invented himself: the 35 ribs were made from thin steel sheets and inflated with compressed air to form slightly imperfect and highly durable shapes. Its ‘nave’ design is meant to mimic the architecture of the nearby Hala Targowa (p.10) and St. Mary’s Church on Piasek Island, and - from what we’ve seen - is treated as a perfect photoshoot location by tourists and locals alike. At 15 metres long and 6-7 metres high, the Nave is officially the city’s biggest sculpture and arguably the most visually striking one. building being what it is, work continued for five more centuries. The centrepiece of the rich, Gothic interior is the altarpiece, painted in Lublin in 1522, showing the Virgin Mary having a nap. You’ll also see the largest organ in Poland, which prior to the war was also the largest in the world. The real highlight of the Cathedral, however, is the panoramic view from one of its towers, which can be yours for 7zł on Mondays and Tuesdays between 11:00 and 16:00 (more normal opening hours should resume in April); unlike the arduous climbs required for Wrocław’s other church towers, here an elevator takes you to the top where you’ll find a small exhibition in addition to the wonderful views.QH‑4, Pl. Katedralny 18, tel. (+48) 71 322 25 74, www.katedra.archidiecezja.wroc.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 -16:00. No visiting during mass please.

Cathedral of St. John the Baptist

CATHEDRAL OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST One of Wrocław’s most enduring icons, the elegant double-spires of this Gothic building stand like sentinels at the end of ul. Katedralna, and its elaborate portal is one of the most valuable medieval artefacts in Wrocław. What we see today is in fact the fourth church to be built on this site. When construction began in 1244, this was the first brick building in Poland. Cathedraliyp.me/polandblog

ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM To the right of the Cathedral is the stunning Archdiocese Museum, a do-it-yourself museum that throws rooms full of religious art at you and you’re left to decide for yourself what to make of it. Much of the art is recent - the work of local religious orders, but the largest room is filled with invaluable mediaeval works from around Poland. Art historians will no doubt find plenty of interest.QI‑4, Pl. Katedralny 16, tel. (+48) 71 327 11 78, www.muzeum. archidiecezja.wroc.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10zł. N January – April 2018

Centennial Hall & Surrounds

Centennial Hall

Once you’ve finished ogling the Old Town and Ostrów Tumski, there’s a third essential district of this fine city that visitors will be poorer heading home without having seen. Just east of the city centre lie a clutch of attractions surrounding the historic Centennial Exhibition Complex, including Centennial Hall - Wrocław’s only UNESCO site, the country’s oldest zoo, the tranquil Japanese Garden, the tourist-luring Pergola Fountain and the newly renovated Four Dome Pavilion. Intended as a city showpiece since its creation, the area east of the Odra long held a somewhat lukewarm public standing thanks to dubious historical connotations and debatable aesthetic appeal; however recent renovations, the UNESCO nod and the addition of the magnificent multimedia fountain (operating May-October) have made it a favourite place of the locals and cemented its place as a Wrocław mustsee. IGLICA (SPIRE) The iconic steel spire was erected on the Centennial Hall exhibition grounds in 1948 as part of the propagandic ‘Recovered Territories Exhibition.’ Meant to symbolise the soaring achievements of the country’s newly acquired western territories since they were ‘returned’ to Communist Poland, like many of the Party’s ideas, this one quickly went wrong. Originally 106 metres, Iglica’s peak was adorned with a spinning contraption of mirrors which would create a dazzling ‘umbrella of light’ at night. The apparatus was ominously struck by lightning only hours after completion with much of it crashing to the ground in dazzling catastrophe; the remaining dangling 68 Wrocław In Your Pocket

bits posed quite a hazard to the expected thousands who would attend the exhibition. To the rescue came two college students who were part of a climbing club and volunteered to dismantle the top of the structure for free after the military proved unable to sort the situation due to the inclement weather. Scaling the Iglica took 24 hours and 15 minutes, dismantling it another six, but the boys succeeded in becoming heroes of the enormous media spectacle. In 1964, the spire was reduced by 10 metres for safety reasons. During Martial Law, another daredevil climbed the tower and attached a Solidarity flag to its zenith. In 2016 it was taken down temporarily for renovations, and a routine measurement yielded a surprise - over 5 metres of the spire had inexplicably gone missing (or the communist team mismeasured the amount they were cutting in ‘64). Today the (officially 90.3m tall) ugly ribbed structure continues to stand outside Centennial Hall and is probably one of the tallest pieces of useless bolted metal in the world.QN‑6, Hala Stulecia, ul. Wystawowa 1.

GETTING THERE The easiest way to reach the Centennial Exhibition Complex is via public transport. Tram 10 can be caught from the ‘Rynek’ (E-5), ‘Świdnicka’ (E-7) and ‘Galeria Dominikańska’ (G-6) stops, or take buses 145 or 146 east from the train station (F-8), getting off at ‘Hala Stulecia.’ The area is also easily accessible by car, with parking available right in front of Centennial Hall. iyp.me/wroclaw

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CENTENNIAL HALL & DISCOVERY CENTRE With Wrocław developing rapidly in the late 19th century it was determined that the city required an exhibition hall and the hundred year anniversary of Napoleon’s defeat at the Battle of Leipzig (1813) was deemed a timely occasion for an expensive, over-the-top exhibition hall that would figuratively flex the architectural muscle of the German Nation. Max Berg, who had been appointed as official city architect in 1909, quickly set about designing his career-piece, and (what-do-ya-know?) his proposal was chosen over 42 others by city council despite abject objection from almost everyone who laid eyes on the design, which resembled a colossal concrete hatbox and would cost an enormous 1.9 million Reichsmarks. Teaming with eminent architect Hans Poelzig, the two personally oversaw the project which was completed in 1913 and has endured to become hailed as one of the most important architectural monuments of the early 20th century. With an inner diameter of 69 metres, a height of 42 metres and a 10,000 person capacity, the Jahrhunderthalle (as it was

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THE FOUR DOME PAVILION: MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART The Four Dome Pavilion, a work of famous German architect Hans Poelzig, has been modernised and re-opened to the public as a branch of the National Museum dedicated to contemporary art. Constructed in 1913 to serve as part of the exhibition space surrounding the Centennial Hall, it originally housed a historical exhibition commemorating Prussia’s defeat of Napoleon 100 years prior. Following WWII, the remarkable building was taken over by the Wrocław Motion Picture Company for office use, gradually falling into disrepair before being signed over to the National Museum in 2009. Now restored to its former glory and featuring some blindingly white minimalist decor, it is home to works by prominent 20th- and 21st-century Polish artists - including Magdalena Abakanowicz, Władysław Hasior, Tadeusz Kantor and Alina Szapocznikow - and one more reason to visit the area around Centennial Hall. QN‑6, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.pawilonczterechkopul. pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00 , Tue, Thu 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł, students under 26 (with ID) 1zł, Tue free for permanent exhibitions. Admission free with a ticket from the nearby Racławice Panorama.

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then called) became the highest structure of its type in the world; that type being a gigantic multi-purpose structure of radial reinforced concrete ribs unlike anything the world had ever seen. Though routinely left off lists of the world’s most attractive buildings, one thing is undeniable: the Centennial Hall is an engineering marvel. Building a structure of such size out of steel and concrete was both revolutionary and extremely daring; in fact the workers that helped build the behemoth were afraid to go inside, so certain were they of its eventual collapse. On the contrary, the Centennial Hall has inexplicably survived two world wars and hosted countless large scale events including monumental operas, concerts and sporting events. It was here that Adolf Hitler held rallies and Pope John Paul II held services during his famous visit in 1997. Renamed ‘Hala Ludowa’ (the People’s Hall) following World War II, the structure and surrounding grounds were the site of the People’s Republic of Poland’s ‘Recovered Territories Exhibition’ - the most expensive and publicised propaganda event in the history of Poland. Added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2006, until its total renovation in 2010, the Centennial Hall complex hadn’t really lived up to its reputation for locals and tourists alike, with busloads of the latter often standing in front of the concrete monstrosity wondering how difficult it would be to get the pants they’re wearing to qualification for the once exclusive list. However, that’s no longer the case; Centennial Hall has been scrubbed clean and features an interior exhibit that not only transforms the structure from a dubious January – April 2018

Centennial Hall & Surrounds RECOVERED TERRITORIES In 1948, Wrocław’s Centennial Hall played host to the largest propaganda event in Poland’s history: The Recovered Territories Exhibition. An official term coined by Poland’s post-war communist authorities, the ‘recovered territories’ denoted those lands reappropriated to Poland as compensation for territorial losses in the east which had been absorbed by the Soviet Union. The Party’s underlying aim was to construe the country’s new western territorial acquisitions – of which Wrocław (formerly ‘Breslau’) was the largest city - as belonging to a Polish Piast tradition that dated to medieval times; centuries of German presence in Silesia was explained as evidence of unyielding German aggression, and Poland’s repossession of the resourcerich region, which had repeatedly fed the German war machine, would ensure world peace in the future. Originally intended to be held in Poznań, one look at Wrocław’s Centennial Hall must have made Poland’s communist leaders change their minds; a more glorious piece of grey concrete could not have been dreamed up by even the Soviet Union’s best-rinsed brains and the monumental structure was immediately renamed ‘People’s Hall’ (Hala Ludowa). The exhibition included 48 pavilions portraying the glory of life in Silesia since it had been ‘polonised’, among them a barn full of cows where guests were invited to drink fresh milk, a long conveyor belt around which miners from Wałbrzych pretended to produce coal, and a main exhibition space dedicated to photos and biographies of the region’s most productive workers, among them Wincenty Hajduk - a miner extraordinaire whose efficiency was 571% above his peers, and Legnica’s Maria Lewin who apparently could knit at +401%. All told, the exhibition cost a whopping 700 million PLN and was visited by 1.5 million people during its run from July 21st to the end of October 1948; workers across the country were even given days off specifically for organised trips to visit the exhibition. photo-op to a bona fide tourist attraction, but also does much to explain and justify its reputation as a modern architectural masterpiece. Known as the Discovery Centre (Centrum Poznawcze), this exhibition gives visitors an overview of Centennial Hall’s construction, its history and its place in the pantheon of modern architecture. Most of the information is conveyed via nifty touch-screen displays covering topics as varied as Breslau architects, skyscrapers, various world exhibitions, Polish UNESCO sites, and a lot more related to architecture and Wrocław specifically. In addition to the permanent exhibit, Discovery Centre includes a gallery for temporary exhibitions and the option of a light and sound show under the dome. Using video-mapping technology (unfortunately down for servicing and maintenance as we’re sending this guide to the printing house), the dome 70 Wrocław In Your Pocket

of the Hall comes to life with a stunningly complex light show that emphasises the uniqueness of the structure and is creatively choreographed to original music. Between the light show, the computerised displays of the permanent exhibit and the adjacent Wrocław Fountain - there is some serious multimedia wizardry in this corner of town that is sure to delight architect buffs and technophiles alike. Despite its size (the permanent exhibition only covers two small rooms), there is much to learn and discover, so allot almost two hours for your visit.QN‑6, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 51 50, www.halastulecia.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. From April open 09:00 - 18:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed the first Monday of every month. Admission 12/9zł, permanent exhibit plus Centennial Hall 14/11zł. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. WROCŁAW ZOO & AFRYKARIUM A product of the city’s dynamic development in the late 19th century, Wrocław’s zoo dates back to 1865 (celebrating 150 years in 2015!) and became the oldest in the country when Poland inherited it after World War II. Suffering severe wartime damage, many of the zoo’s elegant historic buildings were reconstructed and can be found in the southern part of the park; also don’t miss the splendid Soviet-era neon sign at the entrance. Brand-new to the zoo is the impressive African aquarium complex - or ‘Afrykarium’ - three levels of exhibits focussed on the diverse water environments of Africa, including hippos, sharks, manatees, crocodiles, penguins (in Africa? Who knew?), and more. With over 14,000 critters of some 1,100 different species, the zoo is one of Wrocław’s most visited attractions (don’t be surprised by long entry queues on sunny weekends) and also provides foreigners with an opportunity to pick up a few phrases from one of the only Polish-speaking macaws in the world.QN‑6, ul. Wróblewskiego 1-5, tel. (+48) 71 340 71 19, www.zoo.wroclaw.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. From March open 09:00 17:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. From April open 09:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 45/35zł. A family ticket (valid for up to 2 adults, 3 kids) is also available for 150zł (Mon 120zł). Last entrance 1 hour before closing.

Hippos at the Afrykarium.

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Wrocław’s Gnomes After the eventual fall of communism in Poland, gnomes remained a symbol of Wrocław, repurposed by the new government to be a tribute to the Orange Movement, as well as playful, family-friendly ambassadors of the city.

Photo by Marcin Wiktorski, courtesy of City Promotion Office, Muncipality of Wrocław

One of Wrocław’s most popular, memorable and iconic attractions is not a cathedral, castle or monument, but a legion of little people: gnomes, or ‘krasnale’ (in local parlance), to be precise. In Wrocław’s city centre these merry munchkins are simply ubiquitous - dotting doorways, alleyways and street corners; constantly underfoot but only seen by the observant. You may well overlook the first dozen or so that cross your path, but inevitably and often literally - you will stumble upon these popular local residents. Keep your eyes peeled and you’re bound to notice the little fellas engaged in a variety of activities about town - from guarding public space to passed-out drunk. Beloved by locals and tourists alike, and the object of more photos than the towering Cathedral, these prolific pranksters have become the unlikely symbol of one of PL’s most picturesque cities. Although it sounds like little more than a twee tourist gimmick, Wrocław’s gnomes actually have a direct correlation to the political climate of the 1980s. Under communism gnomes became the absurdist calling card of the ‘Orange Alternative’ - an underground protest movement that used absurdity and nonsense to stage peaceful, yet subversive protests. Armed with paint cans and led by Waldemar ‘Major’ Fydrych, an artist and student at Wrocław University, the group started out by ridiculing the establishment’s attempts to censor public space. During communism, any anti-establishment graffiti or public art was quickly painted over by the militia; upon seeing fresh daubs of paint, the pranksters of the Orange Alternative quickly painted over them yet again...with gnomes. As the cheeky movement gained popularity, gnomes began to appear in demonstrations as well, with Major Fydrych handing out iconic peaked orange gnome hats to passing pedestrians and leading nonsensical marches for gnomes’ rights. The resulting arrests of orangeclad and ridiculous-looking gnomes, plus dozens of bystanders detained for also wearing red, often made the nightly news and succeeded in making the authorities look idiotic. The movement caught on across the country, and soon gnomes were appearing in other major cities as well. iyp.me/polandblog

The first gnome statuette was Papa Krasnal (the largest of his progeny), who was placed on the corner of ul. Świdnicka and ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego (E-6), where Orange Alternative demonstrations often took place, to celebrate the history of the Orange Alternative in 2001. Things really took off in 2005, however, when local artist Tomasz Moczek - a graduate of the Wrocław Academy of Fine Arts - was commissioned by Wrocław City Council to create five more gnomes. The little devils proved so popular that envious local businesses quickly got in on the game by contracting other local artists to produce more, and in almost no time at all gnomes had proliferated around Wrocław to the point that they now constitute a veritable ‘sub-population’ of the city. The little buggers are currently rumoured to be running rampant to the score of over 300(!), making it literally impossible for us to try and keep track of them, or for visitors to try to find all of them on their own. Seeing how many gnomes you can spot while you’re in Wrocław, however, is an incredibly fun alternative to traditional sightseeing, and a great way to keep the kids involved while tramping around town. To help you out we’ve included 25 of our favourite gnomes on our website, with the exact address and GPS coordinates of their location; head to iyp.me/gnomes to easily find some of the city’s most popular gnomes on your smartphone. If that’s not enough, you can also pick up a special map from tourist information (Rynek 14, E-5) showing where to find 30 of the most centrally located gnomes, and there is even a special, dual-language (Polish and English) website dedicated to Wrocław’s gnomes - www.krasnale.pl - where you can find their history, photos and other information, including downloadable maps of their various locations. Spend an afternoon as a gnome-watcher and see how many of these mischievous miscreants you can spot as you stroll around town. Happy hunting!

Marcin Wiktorski, courtesy of City Promotion Office, Muncipality of Wrocław

January – April 2018

Jewish Wrocław

Monument of Wrocław’s former main synagogue, ul. Łąkowa 6.

Wrocław’s Jewish community is one of the oldest in today’s Poland, dating back to the 12th century when the city was an important trade centre along the Amber Road. Though consistently confronted with persecution, Jews have steadily played a role in the development of the city. By the end of the 19th century, in fact, the Jewish community was so well integrated into Breslau society that many Jews had achieved leading positions in academic and scientific circles; at the time, these men were not considered any less German than they were Jewish. Breslau (as it was then known) possessed the second largest synagogue in Germany and its Jewish community was the third largest in the country with numbers that had risen to 30,000 by the time Hitler came to power. It doesn’t require much detail from us to know what befell Breslau’s wartime Jewish population. The city’s once magnificent main synagogue - torched on Kristallnacht (November 9, 1938) – says enough, with only a small memorial remembering where it once stood at ul. Łąkowa 6 (A-4). What less people are aware of is that after the war when German Breslau became Polish Wrocław, the city’s Jewish population actually increased dramatically beyond its pre-war levels as the city accepted some 70,000 Jews displaced by the war – many from the Soviet Union. Ironically, Wrocław’s Jewish population reached its peak immediately after WWII; however, the antiminority politics of the Soviet Union slowly shrank their numbers until they had been forced out of Poland completely by 1968. Since the fall of the Soviet Union that number has been resurgent again and today there are some 1,000 Jews living in Wrocław, part of a gradual transition from tracing the past to plotting the future which culminated in May 2010 with the symbolic reopening of the White Stork Synagogue. 72 Wrocław In Your Pocket

OLD JEWISH CEMETERY Established in 1856, this 4.6 hectare cemetery is perhaps the most well-preserved testament to the former strength of Breslau’s pre-war Jewish community, with over 1200 gravestones. Closed in 1942, the cemetery quickly fell into deep neglect: in 1945 it was turned into a fortress by the Nazis and saw fierce fighting as evidenced by the eerie bullet holes in many of the gravestones. Preservation began in the 1970s and in 1991 it was opened as the Museum of Jewish Cemetery Art in tribute to the craftsmanship of its sepulchral art. Indeed the beauty and diversity of styles and symbols on display is perhaps unmatched anywhere. Many noteworthy figures are buried here, including the renowned biologist Ferdinand Cohn, the historian Heinrich Graetz (author of the first complete history of the Jews), Clara Immerwahl (first female PhD student at the University of Breslau, and wife of Fritz Haber, who committed suicide in objection to her husband’s work developing chemical warfare), Ferdinand Lassalle (founder and leader of the

TOURS & INFORMATION THE BENTE KAHAN FOUNDATION Founded in 2006 to accomplish the renovation of the Synagogue, this outfit organises the monthly events that take place there, including exhibitions, film screenings, workshops, lectures, concerts, theatre performances, and more. For info about Jewish events in Wrocław, start here.QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 782 81 23, www.fbk.org.pl. iyp.me/wroclaw

Jewish Wrocław first labour party in Germany, killed in a duel), and the parents of Edith Stein; using old records some of their tombstones are slowly being restored. However, despite these modest efforts the Ślężna Street Cemetery remains a completely mysterious and evocative sanctuary of decaying vine-covered monuments, the broken pieces of which are stacked against each other, giving shelter to stray cats and shade to wildflowers. Well worth a visit, a highly informative accompanying booklet (in Polish, English or German) makes it even more so, despite being overpriced at 15zł.QE‑12, ul. Ślężna 37/39, tel. (+48) 71 791 59 04, www.mmw.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 15/10zł, Thu free. THE WHITE STORK SYNAGOGUE The only synagogue in Wrocław to escape the torches of Kristallnacht, the White Stork was built in 1829, taking its name from the inn that once stood in its place. Following the design of prominent German architect Karl Ferdinand Langhans, it is ironically considered a sterling example of 18th century Protestant sacral art. Discreetly hidden from view in a courtyard between ul. Antoniego and ul. Włodkowica, today the surrounding grounds are full of beer gardens, bohemians, and tourists; however, it was here that members of the Jewish community were rounded up for deployment to the death camps during WWII. Badly damaged, but not set ablaze (thanks only to its proximity to residential buildings), the synagogue was literally left to rot after the war, before the Jewish community was finally able to recover it from the Polish government in 1996 and initiate restoration. Re-opened in May 2010, the synagogue now serves as a worship space, cultural centre, and branch of the Jewish Information Centre, with a new multi-functional hall in the synagogue’s basement and two exhibition spaces on the balconies. One houses a permanent exhibition about the History of Jews in Wrocław and Lower Silesia, while the second balcony is for temporary exhibitions.QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 7, tel. (+48) 504 90 53 58, www.wroclaw.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 -16:00. Closed Sat. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Opening hours subject to change depending on their events calendar. Admission free.

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DISTRICT OF MUTUAL RESPECT To Wrocław’s other accolades you can attach one more curious addition: within a mere 400 metres of the city’s historic Old Town one can find the houses of worship of four different religious denominations – a spatial and spiritual arrangement unique in Poland, and as far as we’re aware, all of Europe. Dubbed the ‘District of Mutual Respect,’ or also commonly the ‘District of Four Denominations,’ the anomalous area includes three churches - Lutheran, Orthodox, and Roman Catholic - and a Jewish synagogue almost side-byside in a short crescent curling along the promenade where the city’s (now demolished) defensive fortifications once stood (D-5/6, E-6). THE BACKSTORY Granted, Wrocław has no shortage of churches, and like the rest of PL, its population is predominantly Roman Catholic; the city is the seat of an Archdiocese, after all. However, it wasn’t always so. In fact at the turn of the 20th century Wrocław (then known as ‘Breslau’) was predominantly Protestant – one of the only cities in Silesia to be so. Forced post-WWII resettlements and migrations continued Wrocław’s tradition of diversity as people from Poland’s former eastern territories (yoinked by the USSR) were herded into cattle cars and transferred to the ‘recovered territories’ of PL’s new western border (one of Germany’s primary post-war penalties). Wrocław was christened the ‘Second Lwów’ as Germans were exiled and a large influx of Greek Catholics and Orthodox Christians of Ukrainian and Lemko descent drastically changed the cultural and religious makeup of the city once again. 20,000 Jewish survivors also represented a significant influx, but as a result of discrimination and the ever-present fear of pogroms by 1970 their numbers had dwindled to almost nil. HOORAY FOR HOOLIGANS - OR ‘PROGRAMMES, NOT POGROMS’ Though in existence for decades, the District of Mutual Respect was truly born in 1995 when a stone came hurtling through one of the stained glass windows of the Roman Catholic Church on ul. Św. Antoniego, almost striking the sister of the parish’s pastor, Father Jerzy Żytowiecki. Days later another stone was thrown at an icon outside the Orthodox church on ul. Św. Mikołaja, prompting Jerzy Kichler – a Jewish community leader who bore witness to the event – to go have a word with Father Żytowiecki. Soon the resultant dialogue was extended to the leaders of all four temples, and after several meetings they were all committed to creating a culture of communication and cooperation within their closely-knit community, the area of which they dubbed the ‘Four Temples District,’ ‘District of Tolerance,’ and ‘District of Reconciliation’ before agreeing upon the District of Mutual Respect. January – April 2018

Project Riese

Some of Riese’s tunnels are accessible only by boat. | © Mariusz Cieszewski, Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Poland

Eighty kilometres southwest of Wrocław, the ‘Sowie,’ or Owl Mountains are one of Poland’s oldest mountain ranges – a compact massif of steep, largely inaccessible terrain overgrown with spruce forest stretching along the Czech border. It was here in 1943, as the tide of war began to turn against the Third Reich, that Hitler ordered the undertaking of a massive, top-secret underground complex known as Project ‘Riese’ (Giant). One of the Führer’s most ambitious and maniacal schemes, the exact nature of which remains unclear, Riese remains one of World War II’s greatest mysteries, about which suspiciously little is known over seventy years since.

UNDERWORLD OF THE THIRD REICH Unknowns aside, let’s begin with the knowns. There are 90,000 cubic metres of excavated concrete tunnels carved into the Owl Mountains, with seven major access points to separate tunnel systems found at Walim-Rzeczka, Jugowice, Włodarz, Soboń (Ramenberg), Sokolec, Osówka and Książ Castle. In addition to these main compounds, a casual walk through the mountains will reveal frequent and somewhat frightening traces of abandoned military barracks, bunkers, warehouses, building materials, excavated matter, and tunnel openings, many of which are barricaded, bricked, or blocked by hardened сement bags; others are filled with water and some seemingly go on forever, leading nowhere. 74 Wrocław In Your Pocket

In 1943, as the Allies initiated air-raids against Germany, the Third Reich began the endeavour of decentralising its infrastructure and moving it to secret underground locations. Based on the time works were begun, and their similarity to other armament sites, it is widely theorised that the Riese Complex was at least originally intended to house underground arms factories - and as some sensationalists theorize, develop secret superweapons or hide stolen treasure. In the early stages of Riese, labour was done by Polish, Italian, and Soviet POWs from the AL Riese labour camp – a satellite of the nearby Gross-Rosen concentration camp – from which the project took its name. Typhoid was rampant, escapes were frequent and progress was slow. In April 1944 a displeased Hitler gave the directive to transfer production on the project from the Silesian Industrial Company to the Todt Organisation (OT), headed by Albert Speer, Hitler’s chief architect and engineer. Hitler ordered that the prisoners of Gross-Rosen, primarily Polish, Hungarian, and Italian Jews, be used as labourers as well. It was at this point that the direction of the project seems to have changed. OT moved their base of operations into Książ Castle where two kilometres of tunnels were hewn into the bedrock beneath the castle and a 50 metre elevator shaft was dug as part of the Riese Project. According to period documents, memoirs and witness testimonies, Książ Castle and its underground chambers were to serve as a secret headquarters for Hitler and his closest accomplices while the rest of the Riese complex was to become a hidden headquarters for the iyp.me/wroclaw

Project Riese Wehrmacht. With the Nazis expelled from North Africa and the Soviet Union, and every resource needed for the success of the war, there was growing consensus among Hitler’s subordinates that the costly project was not only insane, but impossible to complete. In July, 1944 many of the firms working on Hitler’s unfinished Wolf’s Lair were moved to Lower Silesia to expedite the construction of Riese. However, unfavourable changes on the Eastern Front occurred much faster than anticipated for the Reich and in January 1945, the Red Army rampaged across Eastern Europe on a beeline for Berlin. Bypassing the Owl Mountains, an SS unit was able to remain in Walim-Rzeczka until May 1945, before which time they had bricked or obliterated all entrances into the underground fortress and whatever was or wasn’t stored there subsequently disappeared, as did the estimated 7,000 to 30,000 POWs who built the complex.

VISIT Of the seven primary Riese sites, three are open to the public – in Walim-Rzeczka, Włodarz, and Osówka. Run as tourist attractions by private companies, these sites arguably do more to mystify than demystify the history, but the guides’ enthusiasm is contagious, and the off-thebeaten-path feel will surely be welcomed by those weary of Wrocław’s tourist hordes. A car is almost essential to get there from Wrocław, but if you’re stubborn enough you can make it work with public transport; use the website e-podroznik.pl to plan your journey, and keep in mind that it will require a bit of a hike through the woods. Alternatively, use a licensed tour company to do the heavy lifting for you. The Osówka Complex: www.osowka.pl The Walim-Rzeczka Complex: www.sztolnie.pl The Włodarz Complex: www.wlodarz.pl The Gross-Rosen Museum in Rogoźnice: www.gross-rosen.eu Książ Castle: www.en.ksiaz.walbrzych.pl

Mariusz Cieszewski, Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Poland

iyp.me/polandblog

January – April 2018

Leisure

Nowe Horyzonty

Though skirt-watching and spirit-sipping in the city’s cafés and beer gardens is perhaps the most popular local leisure activity, our Leisure section is more designed to help you get out and make the most of a sunny day, or stay active during a dreary one. Known as one of Poland’s greenest cities, Wrocław offers plenty of recreation opportunities on top of its great architecture, nightlife and culture. In the cold season, we recommend ice skating at Pergola, indoor attractions like the newly opened Imaginarium, or checking out the Municipal Swimming Pools - a hidden gem - and the Water Park, which is one of the best in the country. Kids tend to love the zoo and its Afrykarium complex (p.70), which is conveniently located next to one of Wrocław’s most important sights - Centennial Hall (p.68). Alternatively, a spa day is always nice, especially if the sightseeing has worn you out a bit. Whatever your interest, the area has something to offer you, so use the listings below to stay active in every season.

CINEMAS NOWE HORYZONTY Wrocław’s best independent art house cinema, cooperating with the city’s film festivals and educational projects. All Polish films are shown with English subtitles (this is not the norm), and the new interior features a cafe, bistro, bookshop, and film poster gallery. Recommended. QE‑5, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19A-21, tel. (+48) 71 786 65 66, www.kinonh.pl. Box office open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after last show. Tickets 13-27zł. 76 Wrocław In Your Pocket

ICE SKATING PERGOLA ICE RINK Just left of Centennial Hall’s main entrance you’ll find the ‘Pergola’ - a colossal, semi-circular, ivy-covered colonnade winding around one of the city’s most magnificent and popular attractions - the multimedia fountain. Unveiled in 2009, Wrocław’s fountain performs its dazzling light, sound and water shows hourly from May to the end of September, but in the winter this space is transformed into Wrocław’s best outdoor ice rink. Measuring 900 square metres(!), Pergola will remain an enormous ice patch most likely until the end of February. Note that there is a one-off entrance fee which gives you unlimited time as long as you remain on the ice, but if you leave you have to pay all over again. Oh, and if you didn’t pack ice skates on your holiday, you’ll need an outrageous 200zł in cash for a skate rental deposit (plus 6zł for the actual use of the skates).QO‑6, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 50 56, www.halastulecia.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00 with 1hr maintenance breaks at 15:00 and 19:00, Sat, Sun at 12. Closed from March. Admission 10/7zł.

INDOOR ATTRACTIONS NEW IMAGINARIUM The future is here, as drone deliveries, autonomous vehicles, and whatever Elon Musk’s latest project is won’t let us forget. At Imaginarium, you can quite cheaply try out the latest entertainment craze: virtual reality. The centre is equipped with five 3x3 metre stations (one person iyp.me/wroclaw

Leisure per station - this is a solo adventure) and a multitude of different games to choose from, including 3D drawing, shooter games, and exploring the Solar System or the depths of the ocean. The minimum age is 8 (apparently there are worries that younger kids won’t be able to tell virtual reality from actual reality), glasses are okay (unless they’re huge and won’t fit in the headset), and reservations via the website are encouraged.QE‑7, ul. Piłsudskiego 5456, tel. (+48) 600 37 92 14, www.imaginariumwroclaw. pl. Open 15:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 20:00. 35zł for 30min, 60zł for 1h.

RIVER CRUISES WRATISLAVIA Cruise the river year-round while enjoying an a la carte lunch menu on Poland’s largest inland vessel departing from its harbour on Bulwar X. Dunikowskiego at 16:00 Mon-Wed and 12:00, 14:00, and 16:00 Thu-Sun. Past 17:30 the ship docks for the night and becomes a stationary restaurant. Do note that at least 20 passengers need to be present for the cruise to take place.QG‑4, Wratislavia Harbour, Bulwar Xawerego Dunikowskiego (near the Hala Targowa), tel. (+48) 535 16 15 35, www. statekrestauracja.pl.

SPA & BEAUTY CHAIYO THAI MASSAGE CENTRE Improve blood and limphatic circulation, release physical and mental tension, strengthen the immune system, improve joint flexibility, and remove toxins from your body with an authentic Thai massage, performed solely by highly qualified Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok. The offer includes classical Thai massage, herbal compresses, oil massages, feet and legs reflexology, back, shoulder and head massages, and more. Note that reception is only open until 20:00.QD‑5, ul. Ruska 35, tel. (+48) 667 75 53 87, www.masaz-tajski-wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Massages 120-300zł. MONOPOL SPA & WELLNESS CENTRE Descend beneath the grandeur of the Monopol hotel to find one of the city’s premier spa and wellness centres including a gym, counter-current swimming pool, fountain and jacuzzi, dry sauna, aromatherapy steam bath and salt and iodine cave. Massages, face and body treatments are also available.QE‑6, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 50, www.monopolwroclaw. hotel.com.pl. Spa open 09:00 - 21:00; Wellness Centre open 06:00 - 22:00. SPA CENTRE WROCŁAW This gorgeous therapeutic complex in the very centre of Wrocław includes the original city municipal baths (see Swimming), built between 1895-97 and today included on the historical registry. Serviced by SPA Centre Wrocław, the complex offers access to three of the swimming pools, a fitness centre, saunas, jacuzzis, swimming courses, full iyp.me/polandblog

rehabilitation and water therapy services, and more. Proceed directly to the Customer Service desk or call to arrange a visit. QF‑6, ul. Teatralna 10-12, tel. (+48) 71 341 09 43, www. spa.wroc.pl. Spa treatments available 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Sauna open 12:00 - 23:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Fitness centre hours vary each day. THAI LANNA If you’ve never had a Thai massage before, you really don’t know what your missing (literally). Located just off Wrocław’s market square, this outfit invites you into their intimate, aromatic, slightly exotic ‘living room’ for classic Thai massages, oil massages, reflexology foot massages and more. After the late-night hard-living that a trip to Wrocław tends to inspire, this is a perfect way to relax and re-energise your body.QE‑5, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 25, tel. (+48) 537 84 47 71, www.salon-thailanna.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. 1 hour massage 125zł, with oils 150zł.

SWIMMING MUNICIPAL SWIMMING POOLS This gorgeous complex in the very centre of Wrocław housed the city municipal baths built between 189597. Over one hundred years later, today it maintains its function as a therapeutic swimming complex, and is one of Wrocław’s most important architectural monuments from the 19th century (included on the National Registry of Historic Monuments). A beauty from the outside, the interior ornamentation of the three-pool complex includes sculpted sandstone, stained-glass windows, artistic ceramic tiles, polychromatic vaulted ceilings, two-level arcades, and colonnades inspired by the ancient hot baths of Rome. Currently serviced by SPA Centre Wrocław, full spa services are also on hand so if you plan on taking a dip or lying down for a massage in Wrocław, you’d be crazy not to do it here. Club and school reservations make it a bit tricky, but the website regularly updates its posted reservation schedule and opening hours, which you’d be wise to check before thonging down to the pool.QF‑6, ul. Teatralna 10-12, tel. (+48) 71 341 09 43, www.spa.wroc.pl. Open 06:00 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00, Last entrace one hour before closing. Admission 15-16.50zł. WROCŁAW AQUAPARK Completed in 2008, Wrocław’s water park is easily one of the finest in the country and makes for a nice respite from the city’s confoundingly complex history and high-minded cultural attractions. And it’s probably the only place your kids will tell their friends about from their trip to Wrocław. Starting from either ‘Rynek’ or ‘Galeria Dominikańska’, you can take a) bus K to ‘Borowska’ or b) tram 23 to ‘Pl. Jana Pawła II’ followed by bus 122 to ‘Petrusewicza’.QF‑11, ul. Borowska 99, tel. (+48) 71 771 15 11, www.aquapark. wroc.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Fitness Centre, saunas, and sport pool all have independent hours. Check the website for exact times and up-to-date prices. Admission 47zł for a day pass, 37zł for 3hrs, 27zł for 2hrs, each additional minute 0.50zł. January – April 2018

Shopping

Colourful fashion at Oh My! Concept Store (p.80)

Retail opportunities have come a long way since the days of queuing around the corner for the off-chance of buying a crust of bread. Today Wrocław’s shop-fronts are stocked with everything you’d expect to find in a cosmopolitan metropolis, with bountiful pedestrian shopping opportunities around the market square, ulica Świdnicka and ulica Oławska. Odrzańska, Kiełbaśnicza and Mikołaja streets are home to upmarket boutiques and galleries, while the popular Jatki (A-2) is known for its row of artisan galleries and souvenir stalls. For familiar international labels and big brands, look no further than one of Wrocław’s glistening new shopping malls - there are no less than five comfortably within the city centre. Lastly, don’t miss visiting Hala Targowa (C-2) for a truly Polish cultural experience while catching a bargain. As this is PL, remember most shops close early on Saturday and take Sunday off altogether.

SA V E UP TO

16%! www.globalblue.com 78 Wrocław In Your Pocket

AMBER & JEWELLERY Herbal vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland. Poland is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse.

@WroclawIYP GALERIA SCHUBERT Located in the Town Hall, World of Amber has an impressive and reasonably priced array of amber-themed jewellery and pieces. For those less keen on amber, they also offer other precious stones and metals and took a page out of the Bohemian book with a small section of crystal-ware. If amber is on your Wrocław to-do list, Schubert will do nicely without killing your travel budget or drawing you away from the heart of the city.QF‑5, Rynek Ratusz 20/22, tel. (+48) 71 343 95 51, www.jubilerschubert.pl/. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Open 09:00 - 20:00. From November open 09:00 - 19:00. LILOU Pendants, charms, and delicate chains abound in this boutique-y jewellery shop staffed by immaculately-attired ladies keen to assist and advise potential buyers. Glamorous but not intimidating, this is the place to browse miniature shiny trinkets during an afternoon shopping break.QA‑3, ul. Świdnicka 3-5, tel. (+48) 71 343 22 97, www.lilou.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. iyp.me/wroclaw

Shopping ART & ANTIQUES Antiques are a popular commodity in Poland and you’ll find no shortage of antiquated oddities in Wrocław. As you walk about town keep your eyes peeled for signage with the inscriptions ‘Antyki,’ ‘Antykwariat’ and ‘Starocie’ (junk); ul. Kiełbaśnicza (E-5) is a good place to start. Knowledgeable dealers offer prices comparable with the rest of Europe, but there are still plenty of bargains and undervalued treasures to be found. Bear in mind that if you intend to take art that is more than 50 years old and of a potentially high value out of the country, you’ll have to get some papers in order first. Most proper dealers can provide this straight-away, but you may want to check before opening your wallet. For artisan galleries in Wrocław, head straight to ul. Jatki (E-5). In addition to being Wrocław’s oldest, most narrow, and most charming street, this row of former medieval butcher stalls is today home to numerous artist studios and galleries. For non-commercial art gallery listings, visit our Culture section. ANTYKI PRZY SZEWSKIEJ A very professional and absolutely gorgeous antique shop uniquely located under the Gothic arches of St. Mary Magdalene’s Church. With over 5000 items for sale from all over the world - including furniture, lamps, paintings, graphics, porcelain, glass silver and more - it’s also the largest antiques salon in Wrocław. All items also available for sale online - visit the website.QF‑5, ul. Szewska 10, tel. (+48) 71 341 81 84, www.antykiszewska.pl. Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. POLISH POSTER GALLERY Poland has a proud tradition of graphic art design for film and theatre, which has basically developed into its own genre. This fantastic gallery is the place to check it out by browsing through binders full of hundreds of designs, many of them in stock and others available to order. Find alternative film posters you never knew existed for your favourite flicks, plus amazing propaganda and theatre posters. A great place for souvenirs and gifts, if you aren’t into travelling with a poster tube, check out the amazing postcard collection. Anyone who appreciates graphic art will be glad to discover this place; recommended.QD‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 54/55, tel. (+48) 71 780 49 11, www. polishposter.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILM DE’ MOLIKA The closest thing in Wrocław to the indie record store you’ve always wanted to open. Run by two devoted owners, this tiny shop has all the new and vintage vinyl you won’t find in the ‘megastores,’ plus tonnes of CDs. QF‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 65, tel. (+48) 71 346 89 26, www.demolika.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 16:00. Closed Sun. iyp.me/polandblog

Gifts & Souvenirs Geschenke Regalos Подарки

RYNEK 3 MAIN SQUARE WROCŁAW January – April 2018

Shopping TAJNE KOMPLETY Wrocław’s finest bookstore, located right in the Town Hall. With a bit of an alternative bent, and a surprisingly good English language selection, Tajne Komplety is the kind of place you could spend the entire day nosing through comics, art books, and even vinyl records. It twins as a cafe, so don’t expect to be the only one there taking advantage of the free wifi, coffee, tea, cakes, and more.QF‑5, Przejście Garncarskie 2, tel. (+48) 71 714 23 80, www.tajnekomplety.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

NEW SCANDAL BOUTIQUE One-of-a-kind, head-turning pieces by Polish designers including Robert Kupisz, Marius Przybylski, Muses, all in a gorgeous space inside the Monopol Hotel on ul. Świdnicka. Expect good quality, sharp design, and high prices.QF‑6, ul. Świdnicka 33, tel. (+48) 790 47 06 66. Open 10:00 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES

CEPELIA For over 55 years, this well-recognised company has been promoting and preserving Polish folk art and handicrafts with a wide selection of ceramics, wood carvings, knitwork, wickery, and much more. A lot of is touristy rubbish, but we’ve always fancied the folk costumes (our birthday’s coming up). This shop is huge and seamlessly conjoined to a folk art gallery.QG‑4, Pl. Biskupa Nankiera 5/6/7, tel. (+48) 71 343 59 79, www.cepelia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

NEW MOBO This fashion boutique, classily located on Pl. Kościuszki, offers trendy pieces by some thirty Polish designers including Cocoonbrand, animalkingdom, Marita Bobko, and Kulta. If you’re all about supporting local brands, then this is your place.QE‑7, Pl. Kościuszki 12, tel. (+48) 533 54 60 46, www.mo-bo.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. NEW OH MY! CONCEPT STORE Your one-stop shop for Polish designer clothing and accessories. Oh My! carries items by thirty independent brands such as Heels Mood, Aleksandra Król, Babiak&Fingas, and MISO by Joanna Cypriak. The Carrie Bradshaw-esque interior, stylish and roomy, is punctuated by collages courtesy of local artist GubRoshka, a testament to the owner’s love of all things artsy; indeed, Oh My! regularly hosts art and fashion events including exhibitions, meetings with designers, fashion awards, workshops, and more. QE‑7, ul. Świdnicka 44-46, tel. (+48) 71 786 43 43, www. ohmyconceptstore.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PANPABLO.PL Let Mr. Pablo the fictional true-blooded shoe-loving Italian sell you some trendy, carefully selected footwear, watches, belts, and other accessories from both well-established and niche brands at this customer-service-oriented establishment. For a “lucky red underpants” kinda feeling, browse through the wildly polka-dotted Happy Socks collection.QE‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 52, tel. (+48) 518 42 49 21, www.panpablo.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. PULPA Wrocław’s Hala Targowa indoor market might be best known for piles of photogenic produce sold by apple-cheeked babcias and nostalgic remnants of commie-era shopping ops, but the wind of change has arrived here as well. Head upstairs to the xerox shops and 80s/90s throwbacks and you’ll be surprised to discover one of the city’s hippest boutiques, selling minimalist, contemporary, largely grayscale clothing by fashion designer Marta Maruszczyk.QC‑2, ul. Piaskowa 17 no 162 (Hala Targowa), tel. (+48) 732 05 10 83, www.pulpashop.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. 80 Wrocław In Your Pocket

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS

FOLKOWO-LUDOWO If you’re after some nice folksy souvenirs, this is your place: located a pebble’s throw from the main square, Folkowoludowo is packed with paintings, folk art, handmade wooden products, and all sorts of items inspired by traditional design.QF‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 55, tel. (+48) 71 740 85 25. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. FOLKSTAR Do all your souvenir shopping in one place, assuming that you don’t immediately get dizzy from the ubiquitous floral patterns (and we really mean ubiquitous - it’s intense). Surprisingly low on kitsch, this little shop actually carries loads of cute trinkets we wouldn’t mind having around the house.QF‑4, ul. Odrzańska 15, tel. (+48) 792 87 70 22, www.folkstar.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 18:00. MANUFAKTURA W BOLESŁAWCU For souvenirs which are both authentic and actually useful, hand-painted pottery is the way to go; easily recognisable across Poland, these beauties from the Bolesławiec Pottery Factory have a trademark look and a tradition dating back to the 14th century. Buy your family a tea set and be done with shopping for this trip.QE‑4, ul. Malarska 25/5, tel. (+48) 501 02 44 68, www.polish-pottery.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00. VENA POTTERY (GALERIA VENA) If you aren’t familiar with the universally-loved Bolesławiec style of Polish ceramic, which hails from a little town not far to the west of Wrocław, then make sure you drop into this shop on the market square and educate yourself. Hand-painted in traditional folk motifs, Vena produces pottery that not only looks unique and beautiful, but is also practical for everyday use. This is one of the best iyp.me/wroclaw

Shopping collections we’ve seen anywhere and a foolproof giftgiving plan for anyone with a kitchen.QA‑3, Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 344 43 70, www.vena-ceramika.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. WROCŁAW SOUVENIRS Large and perfectly placed on the market square, it’s no surprise that this is one of the longest-running and most successful souvenir shops in town. With all manner of local Wrocław and Polish souvenirs, including an impressive collection of amber and other jewellery, gnome figurines, photo albums, t-shirts, bags, magnets, mugs, keychains, postcards, paintings and more, there’s even a couch for taking a rest when all those shopping bags start weighing you down.QE‑5, Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 71 344 27 74. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

MARKETS ŚWIEBODZKI BAZAAR If you want a real cultural adventure that you’ll remember for a long, long time, head to the no-man’s-land behind the defunct Świebodzki train station on a Sunday afternoon and check out this unbelievable open-air bazaar sprawling endlessly west over the train tracks. A truly mind-blowing scene, the size and scope of this market is almost hard to comprehend given its location; from the main entrance near Plac Orląt Lwowskich it unfolds through an endless maze of blue and white striped tents, before devolving into acres of rubbish laid out on dirty blankets over the train tracks or the muddy, barren earth. Here you can buy literally anything under the sun at prices about 50% lower than those you might expect to find anywhere so audacious as to have a floor or a roof. Some of it is perfectly legit, of course, some of it quite dodgy, and most of it complete rubbish; amateur photographers and cultural anthropologists will have a field day here. As mentioned above, the days of this phenomenon are numbered, as the Polish State Railways are planning to resume train service to the station in the near future, probably as early as 2017, though there have been a few false alarms in the past couple years.QE‑4, ul. Robotnicza 2, tel. (+48) 71 717 12 54. Open Sun 06:00 - 15:00 only.

4 FLOORS OF SHOPPING MORE THAN 100 YEARS OF ACTIVITY

SHOPPING MALLS FENIKS DEPARTMENT STORE Relive the glorious days of the People’s Republic of Poland – or rather the nineties, after communism fell and goods like toilet paper, artificial flowers, and coffee mugs with faces became plentiful - in this still-functioning remnant of a state-run economy. Dating back to 1902, when it opened as the Barasch Brothers Department Store, Feniks was taken from its original owners as a result of anti-Semitic policies in what was then a part of Nazi Germany, and promptly made government property when Wrocław was transferred to post-WWII Poland. Prior to privatisation, domy handlowe (department stores) were the place to purchase your biannual pair of shoes using ration stamps or join a waiting iyp.me/polandblog

A Shopping Mall with Tradition on Market Square Rynek 31/32, Wroc≥aw Phone: +48 71 377 18 02

Main entrance between Burger King & McDonaldís January – April 2018

Shopping ARKADY WROCŁAWSKIE One of Wrocław’s most centrally located shopping malls; find Arkady Wrocławskie tucked not far behind the train station. With 110 stores across 30,000 square metres, brand highlights of this upscale retail centre include Cubus, Benetton, H&M, New Yorker, Sportisimo, and more. Other diversions you can seek out are the restaurants and cafes, cushy children’s playpen, and a truly impressive two-storey aquarium. Within walking distance of most places and easily accessed by tram, once you’re inside Arkady Wrocławskie, good luck making your way out again.QE‑8, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 2-4, tel. (+48) 71 776 11 22, www.arkadywroclawskie.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. list for some furniture amid chronic underproduction. Now crammed with all sorts of colourful merchendise, Feniks is still going strong due to its convenient Main Square location. Well recommended for the cultural and historical factor alone, but convenient for travel essentials as well. QF‑5, ul. Rynek 31/32, tel. (+48) 71 377 18 00, www. feniks.wroc.pl. Open 06:30 - 21:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 06:30 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. GALERIA DOMINIKAŃSKA Wrocław’s most accessible and well-known retail centre, Galeria Dominikańska is a mere five minutes east of the Rynek, meaning you’re likely to cross paths with it by accident and you’re probably going to get sucked in - as do 13 million people each year. Among the 100 shops (including VAN GRAAF, Reserved, CCC, Max Mara, Carrefour, Media Markt, and an iSpot) you’ll also find some restaurants (Pizza Hut, Ohh! Sushi & Grill, Kuchnia Express Marche, Sevi Kebab, Salad Story, LuLuCafe, Max Premium Burger), drug stores Sephora and Douglas, and we don’t even need to tell you what else because you’re most likely already inside. QG‑6, Pl. Dominikański 3, tel. (+48) 71 344 95 17, www. galeria-dominikanska.pl. Open 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. GALERIA HANDLOWA SKY TOWER You may have noticed Wrocław has beefed up its skyline, realising the arrival of its first bona fide skyscraper with Sky Tower, the sparkling 212 m three-tiered behemoth you see looming over the city just minutes south of the centre. Comprising a small city in and of itself with residential apartments, office and retail space, the ‘podium’ level alone boasts three floors full of boutique shops, restaurants, cafes, services, and sports facilities. Here you’ll find over 80 top name brands, over a dozen restaurants and cafes, a supermarket, fitness centre and spa, dance studio, a 24-lane bowling alley, and plenty more. The design is 82 Wrocław In Your Pocket

flat gorgeous and features an incredible interactive wall gallery on the first floor, a surreal Salvador Dali sculpture outside the front entrance, and the highest panoramic view point in Poland on the 49th floor. Park your vehicle in one of the 1500 spots or take trams 7 or 20, getting off at ‘Wielka.’QC‑9, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 95, tel. (+48) 71 738 31 11, www.galeria.skytower.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. RENOMA One of the largest pre-war department stores in Europe, this magnificent consumer showpiece was added to the Register of Historical Monuments in 1977 and has now been restored and modernised for today’s retail market. The unique 1930s facade of ceramic tiles and gilded heads has been returned to its former glory while inside you’ll find today’s most cutting-edge brands, plus a third floor restaurant with fine views of the Old Town. Along with the original building’s refurbishment, a new modern wing was added on Plac Czysty. Easily outclassing the city’s other shopping malls and smack in the centre, if it was in our disposition to call a shopping mall a must-see attraction, this would fit the bill.QE‑7, ul. Świdnicka 40, tel. (+48) 71 772 58 20, www.renoma-wroclaw.pl. Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. NEW WROCLAVIA Wrocław just got a brand new bus station, and that can only mean one thing - Wrocław just got a brand new shopping centre to go along with it. Beyond stocking up on travel essentials like food, toiletries, magazines, and boxed wine, visitors can use the time between connections to drift in and out of stores like Forever 21, Lacoste, Bershka, The Body Shop, Calzedonia, Flying Tiger, Mohito, Sinsay, and some 135 others. There’s also a Cinema City and a 24h gym. Of note to travellers who don’t have time to venture out to city centre is the upstairs food court, which mercifully goes beyond the expected fast food joints and offers some real food at Blue Frog, Lepione (hand-made pierogi), and Wrocław staple Pasibus, plus good coffee from Etno Cafe and juices from Frankie’s, two more familiar Wrocław brands.Qul. Sucha 1, tel. (+48) 71 748 30 00, www.wroclavia.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00. WROCŁAW FASHION OUTLET This 18,000 square metre outlet centre close to the Wrocław Airport is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over other shopping malls. Recognisable names among the 100+ brands you’ll find here are Guess, Calzedonia, Levi’s, New Balance, Pepe Jeans, Benetton, Adidas, Nike, and ONLY. If you need some new designer stuff jump on bus 106 at either ‘Renoma’ or ‘Pl. Orląt Lwowskich’ or bus 132 at ‘Rynek’, getting off at ‘Mińska (Rondo Rotm. Pileckiego)’ each time; bus 106 will also take you directly to the airport, if your shopping is super lastminute.Qul. Graniczna 2 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 374 00 45, www.wroclawfashionoutlet.com. Open 10:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. iyp.me/wroclaw

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Directory CURRENCY EXCHANGE Currency exchange offices (‘Kantor’) are easy to find in Wrocław, but as with any international destination, it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never change your money at city entry points, particularly at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve assembled a list of well-located exchange offices that won’t rip you off, and don’t take a commission. KANTOR QF‑5, ul. Oławska 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 10 78, www. dorex.com.pl. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. KANTOR CENT QF‑5, ul. Świdnicka 3, tel. (+48) 71 372 35 02, www. centkantor.pl. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. KANTOR DUKAT QF‑5, ul. Szewska 22/23, tel. (+48) 71 344 76 58, www.kantordukat.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. KANTOR TUKAN QF‑5, Rynek Ratusz 16/19, tel. (+48) 71 344 59 41, www.kantortukan.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

24HR PHARMACIES KATEDRALNA A good choice if you’re north of the old town by the Cathedral and the Botanical Garden.QJ‑3, ul. Sienkiewicza 54/56, tel. (+48) 71 322 73 15. POD LWAMI West of Old Town near the Archaeological Museum.QD‑5, Pl. Jana Pawła II 7, tel. (+48) 71 343 67 24.

24HR SHOPS DELIKATESYQE‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27. DELIKATESY 24 QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 72, tel. (+48) 71 794 77 68.

BUSINESS ASSOCIATIONS BRITISH POLISH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Qul. Strzegomska 142A, tel. (+48) 71 733 13 75, www.bpcc.org.pl. LOWER SILESIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE QE‑7, ul. Świdnicka 39, tel. (+48) 71 344 78 25, www.dig.wroc.pl. 84 Wrocław In Your Pocket

THE LOWER SILESIAN CHAMBER OF CRAFT QE‑5, Pl. Solny 13, tel. (+48) 71 344 86 91, www.izba. wroc.pl. WESTERN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE QF‑6, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 41/43, tel. (+48) 71 795 06 56, www.zig.pl.

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES AUSTRIAN CONSULATE IN WROCŁAW Qul. Skwierzyńska 21/10, tel. (+48) 782 17 37 77, www. konsulat-austrii-wroclaw.pl. GERMAN CONSULATE IN WROCŁAW QH‑6, ul. Podwale 76, tel. (+48) 71 377 27 00, www. breslau.diplo.de.

DENTISTS DENTAL ART This private dental centre is waiting patiently for your emergency - as long as it happens between 21:00 and 23:00 (their opening hours for walk-ins).QE‑9, ul. Komandorska 53A/3B, tel. (+48) 71 373 22 66, www. dental-art.pl. Open 24h. PRESTIGE DENT This dentist office is right downtown, but you need to make an appointment beforehand.QF‑6, ul. Oławska 9, tel. (+48) 663 67 77 77, www.prestigedent.com.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

EMERGENCY ROOM 4 WOJSKOWY SZPITAL KLINICZNY Qul. Weigla 5 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 261 66 02 22, www.4wsk.pl.

INTERNET CAFES INTERMAX Very expensive and unpleasant printing, copying and faxing services.QE‑5, ul. Psie Budy 10/11, tel. (+48) 71 794 05 73, www.imx.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 4zł/hour.

LAUNDRY SPEED QUEEN LAUNDRY QE‑3, ul. Kurkowa 18, tel. (+48) 570 17 00 12, www. samo-pranie.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App iyp.me/wroclaw

Directory Full contents online: wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

POST OFFICES POCZTA POLSKA Typically (in)efficient Polish post office.QF‑5, Rynek 28, tel. (+48) 71 347 19 32, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs. POCZTA POLSKA This huge, multi-floor complex includes all your postal needs and also houses a museum on the history of the Polish Postal Service (see Sightseeing for more).QH‑6, ul. Krasińskiego 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 19 81, www.pocztapolska.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Fri 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

PRIVATE CLINICS LUX-MED Qul. Legnicka 51/53, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88, www. luxmed.pl. MEDICOVER Hope you don’t end up here (not that the people here aren’t lovely, but you know what we mean).QD‑8, Powstańców Śląskich 7A, tel. (+48) 500 90 05 00, www.medicover. com.

RELIGIOUS SERVICES ROMAN CATHOLIC PARISH OF ST. CHARLES BOROMEUSZ Home of the Pastoral Centre for English Speakers, St. Charles Boromeusz in Fabryczna is essentially the headquarters of Wrocław’s international Catholic community. Englishlanguage masses take place on Sundays at 16:00. The parish also offers confession and priest services in English, Englishlanguage wedding ceremonies, etc. Visit their website for more information.QB‑10, ul. Krucza 58 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 361 52 65, www.pastoralcentre.pl.

RELOCATION COMPANIES UNIVERSAL EXPRESS RELOCATIONS International moving company (household goods, personal effects, office equipment).QAl. Jaworowa 14/2, tel. (+48) 71 357 17 87, www.uer.pl.

TRANSLATORS & INTERPRETERS EXPRESS Translates to and from most of European languages. QF‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 92, tel. (+48) 71 344 76 65, www. tlumaczwroclaw.com.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

January – April 2018

Hotels

Chrapek, the little snorer, sleeps it off outside the Patio Hotel. More gnomes on p.67. | © Klearchos Kapoutsis/flickr.com/CC BY 2.0

No matter what end of the price spectrum you’re able to entertain, in Wrocław you have plenty of options from 5-star presidentials to budget boarding houses, boutique B&Bs to boisterous hostels, historic apartments to business suites. The market is positively flooded with hotel rooms (well over 3,500), with several new options opening each year. On our website - wroclaw.inyourpocket.com - we list literally hundreds of accommodation options in and around the Lower Silesian capital, with full descriptive reviews, photos, reader comments, GPS mapping and more. Unfortunately space constraints in our print guide no longer allow us to include all of that content here as we once did, however we still provide an updated list of reputable hotels, apartments and hostels below. Sleep well.

CREAM OF THE CROP DOUBLETREE BY HILTON HOTEL WROCŁAW QH‑6, ul. Podwale 84, tel. (+48) 71 777 00 00, www. wroclaw.doubletree.com. 189 rooms (135 singles, 135 doubles, 54 apartments). PH6 UFKCw hhhhh MONOPOL QE‑6, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2, tel. (+48) 71 772 37 77, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. 121 rooms (107 singles, 107 doubles, 14 suites). PH6UF KDXCw hhhhh 86 Wrocław In Your Pocket

iyp.me/wroclaw

Hotels SYMBOL KEY

CHURCHES OF PEACE

P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted F Fitness centre

H Conference facilities

K Restaurant

U Facilities for the disabled

D Sauna

L Guarded parking on site

6 Animal friendly

w Wellness

C Swimming pool X Smoking rooms available

PLATINUM PALACE Qul. Powstańców Śląskich 204 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 327 06 00, www.platinumpalace.pl. 46 rooms (41 singles, 41 doubles, 5 suites). PH6U FLKDw hhhhh RADISSON BLU QH‑5, ul. Purkyniego 10, tel. (+48) 71 375 00 00, www. radissonblu.com/hotel-wroclaw. 162 rooms (13 singles, 144 doubles, 5 apartments). PH6UKDw hhhhh SOFITEL WROCŁAW OLD TOWN QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 67, tel. (+48) 71 358 83 00, www.sofitel-wroclaw.com. 205 rooms (189 singles, 173 doubles, 15 apartments). PH6U FKDw hhhhh

Świdnica Peace Church

by Adam Smok on flickr.com

Given their role in defining one of the most important peace treaties in the history of Europe, the Peace of Westphalia, it is astonishing that so few people have ever heard of the Churches of Peace, especially considering the UNESCO World Heritage status they were granted in 2001. Located in the towns of Świdnica and Jawor, both approximately 60 km from Wrocław, these 17th century houses of worship were built by Silesian protestants from nothing but wood, straw, and clay in the aftermath of the Thirty Years War. To read more, head to our full article at iyp.me/peacechurches.

THE GRANARY LA SUITE HOTEL WROCLAW CITY CENTER QF‑6, ul. Mennicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 395 26 00, www. thegranaryhotel.com. 46 rooms (39 singles, 39 doubles, 7 apartments). PH6UFK hhhhh

UPMARKET ART HOTEL QE‑4, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 20, tel. (+48) 71 787 74 00, www. arthotel.pl. 80 rooms (17 singles, 56 doubles, 6 suites, 1 apartment). PH6UFLK hhhh DWÓR POLSKI QE‑5, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 2, tel. (+48) 71 372 34 15, www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. 28 rooms (24 singles, 22 doubles, 4 apartments). H6K hhhh EUROPEUM QE‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27A, tel. (+48) 71 371 44 00, www.europeum.pl. 36 rooms (34 singles, 32 doubles, 2 apartments). PHUFLKD hhh MERCURE WROCŁAW CENTRUM QG‑6, Pl. Dominikański 1, tel. (+48) 71 323 27 00, www. mercure.com. 151 rooms (144 singles, 144 doubles, 7 apartments). PH6ULKw hhhh iyp.me/polandblog

January – April 2018

Hotels PARK HOTEL DIAMENT WROCŁAW Qul. Muchoborska 10 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 735 03 50, www.hotelediament.pl. 132 rooms (127 singles, 115 doubles, 3 suites, 2 apartments). PH6UFK hhhh PURO HOTEL WROCŁAWQD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 6, tel. (+48) 71 772 51 00, www.purohotel.pl. 102 rooms (102 singles, 97 doubles). PH6ULK hhh Q HOTEL PLUS WROCŁAW QD‑9, ul. Zaolziańska 2, tel. (+48) 71 749 17 00, www. qhotels.pl/en. 127 rooms (126 singles, 126 doubles, 1 apartment). PH6UFLK hhhh QUBUS HOTEL WROCŁAWQF‑5, ul. Św. Marii Magdaleny 2, tel. (+48) 71 797 98 00, www.qubushotel. com. 83 rooms (83 singles, 62 doubles, 3 apartments). PH6UFKDC hhhh SCANDIC WROCŁAWQE‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 49/57, tel. (+48) 71 787 00 00, www.scandichotels.com. 164 rooms (164 singles, 164 doubles). PH6UF LKD hhhh

A pleasant stay in Wrocław’s Old Town • convenient location • comfortable for work and relaxation • free wi-ﬁ • welcome package in each room • TV with Canal+ • restaurant serving Polish and International cuisine • conferences, trainings and banquets

ul. Jagiełły 7, 50-201 Wrocław Tel. +48 71 326 78 00, Fax: +48 71 326 78 01 wroclaw@campanile.com, www.campanile-wroclaw.pl

88 Wrocław In Your Pocket

SLEEPWALKER BOUTIQUE SUITES QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 61-62, tel. (+48) 733 35 55 35, www.sleepwalker.pl. 15 rooms (7 singles, 7 doubles, 8 apartments). PHUL

MID-RANGE BOUTIQUE BRAJT HOTELQD‑5, ul. Pawła Włodkowica 18, tel. (+48) 71 346 29 81, www.brajt.pl. 8 rooms (8 singles, 4 doubles). P6U hhh CAMPANILE WROCŁAW STARE MIASTO QE‑3, ul. Jagiełły 7, tel. (+48) 71 326 78 00, www. campanile-wroclaw.pl. 110 rooms (110 singles, 110 doubles). PH6UK hhh CITI HOTEL’S QB‑4, ul. Trzemeska 10, tel. (+48) 71 889 00 15, www. cfihotels.pl/nasze-hotele/citi-hotels-wroclaw. 63 rooms (8 singles, 51 doubles, 4 apartments). 6L DUETQD‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 47-48, tel. (+48) 71 785 51 00, www.hotelduet.pl. 39 rooms (34 singles, 34 doubles, 5 apartments). PH6LK hhh EUROPEJSKI QF‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 88, tel. (+48) 71 772 10 00, www. europejskiwroclaw.pl. 96 rooms (19 singles, 65 doubles, 12 apartments). PH6UK hhh IBIS STYLES WROCŁAW CENTRUM QG‑8, ul. Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48 00, www.ibis.com. 133 rooms (133 singles, 108 doubles, 21 triples). PH6UL hhh iyp.me/wroclaw

Hotels NOVOTEL WROCŁAW CITYQul. Wyścigowa 35 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 339 80 51, www.accorhotels.com. 145 rooms (145 singles, 145 doubles). PH6UK hhh PATIOQE‑5, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24-25, tel. (+48) 71 375 04 00, www.hotelpatio.pl. 50 rooms (42 singles, 42 doubles, 8 apartments). HGK hhh POLONIAQE‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 66, tel. (+48) 71 343 10 21, www.poloniawroclaw.pl. 123 rooms (115 singles, 86 doubles, 3 triples, 4 quads, 1 apartment). 6UK hhh SOFIAQG‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 104 (entrance from ul. Gwarna 23), tel. (+48) 71 372 32 00, www.hotelsofia.pl. 31 rooms (31 singles, 31 doubles). PH6UDw hhh

Mennicza Fusion Restaurant

SYSTEM HOTEL WROCŁAW QAl. Kromera 16, tel. (+48) 71 364 97 00, www.systemhotels.pl/wroclaw. 107 rooms (100 singles, 100 doubles, 7 apartments). PH6UGKDC hhh TUMSKIQG‑3, Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322 60 99, www.hotel-tumski.com.pl. 57 rooms (14 singles, 38 doubles, 3 triples, 1 suite, 1 apartment). H6UK hhh WODNIKQL‑7, ul. Na Grobli 28, tel. (+48) 71 343 36 67, www.wodnik-hotel.pl. 18 rooms (9 singles, 7 doubles, 2 suites). HK hhh

www.thegranaryhotel.com + 48 71 395 26 00

SOLPOL Wrocław’s most infamous architectural creation has to be the Solpol department store on ul. Świdnicka 18/20 (F-6). Designed by postmodernist architect Wojciech Jarząbek during a single, intensive 120h period in 1992, this ‘scaled-up 1990s ice-cream parlour’ (as architect Aleksandra Wasilkowska put it) is an adventure in wonky shapes and flamboyant colour whose existence can only be explained by early post-communist Poland’s insatiable yearning for colour and novelty. Originally filled with retailers, Solpol fell out of favour with Wroclavians as swanky shopping malls started popping up in the city. Despite periodically made announcements that the building is to be finally put out of its misery by the unlucky owner, in recent years attempts have been made to get the now-empty structure onto the Polish register of objects of cultural heritage as a testament to the transitional period of early 1990s Poland. iyp.me/polandblog

January – April 2018

Hotels BUDGET AKIRA BED & BREAKFASTQE‑2, Pl. Strzelecki 28, tel. (+48) 71 323 08 88, www.hotelakira.pl. 21 rooms (21 singles, 17 doubles, 1 triple). 6 B&B HOTEL QG‑6, ul. Piotra Skargi 24-28, tel. (+48) 71 324 09 80, www.hotelbb.pl. 140 rooms (140 singles, 140 doubles, 2 triples, 2 quads). PH6UL X hh BOOGIE HOSTEL DELUXEQE‑5, ul. Białoskórnicza 6, tel. (+48) 691 35 02 65, www.boogiehostel.com. 13 rooms (12 singles, 12 doubles, 1 quad). CILANTRO BED & BREAKFASTQE‑2, ul. Pomorska 32/26-29, tel. (+48) 71 793 86 82, www.cilantro.pl. 9 rooms (9 singles, 9 doubles, 3 triples). 6L

ul. Pomorska 32, 50-218 Wrocław tel./fax 71 793 86 82 info@hotelcilantro.pl

HOTEL PIAST QF‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 98, tel. (+48) 71 343 00 33, www. piastwroclaw.pl. 92 rooms (80 singles, 74 doubles, 12 suites). PH6UK hh IBIS BUDGET WROCŁAW STADION Qul. Lotnicza 151 (Pilczyce), tel. (+48) 71 353 84 48, www.ibisbudget.com. 122 rooms (118 singles, 118 doubles, 4 triples). P6U h

APARTMENTS +48 730 899 988 +48 794 498 998

Lucky Apartments & One Lucky Hostel

ART APART QI‑6, ul. Walońska 7/1, tel. (+48) 667 71 71 71. 66 rooms (66 apartments). 6 EXCLUSIVE WORLD APARTMENTS QG‑5, ul. Krawiecka 6/4, tel. (+48) 515 13 81 77, www. exclusiveapartments.pl. 70 rooms (70 apartments). P LEOAPART QF‑4, ul. Więzienna 5, tel. (+48) 71 330 71 21, www. leoapart.com. 55 rooms (55 apartments). 6LK LUCKY APARTMENTS QG‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 730 89 99 88, www. luckyapart.pl/en. 41 rooms (41 apartments). 6

Hostel & Apartments in Wroclaw Old Town!

Reception open 24/7

www.luckyapart.pl wroclaw@luckyapart.pl Ul. Wita Stwosza 12 90 Wrocław In Your Pocket

NO NAME APARTMENTS QE‑5, ul. Ruska 41/42, tel. (+48) 735 14 31 43, www. nonameapartments.com. 6 rooms (6 apartments). SILVER APARTMENTS QG‑5, ul. Krawiecka 3/18, tel. (+48) 698 68 83 44, www.silverapartments.pl. 36 rooms (36 apartments). P6L ST. DOROTHY’SQF‑6, ul. Świdnicka 24/26 lok.2, tel. (+48) 602 50 66 47, www.stdhostel.pl. 6 rooms (6 apartments, 15 dorm beds). iyp.me/wroclaw

Hotels HOSTELS BOOGIE APARTHOUSEQE‑4, ul. Garbary 2, tel. (+48) 605 07 10 10, www.boogiehostel.com/boogieaparthouse/. 14 rooms (2 singles, 8 doubles, 2 triples, 2 quads, 35 dorm beds). P BOOGIE HOSTELQD‑5, ul. Ruska 34, tel. (+48) 71 342 44 72, www.boogiehostel.com. 20 rooms (19 singles, 19 doubles, 19 triples, 2 quads, 8 dorm beds). P CINNAMONQF‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 67, tel. (+48) 71 344 58 58, www.cinnamonhostel.com. 10 rooms (3 singles, 3 doubles, 54 dorm beds). 6 GRAMPA’S HOSTELQF‑2, Pl. Św. Macieja 2/1, tel. (+48) 789 24 12 77, www.grampahostel.pl. 9 rooms (2 singles, 2 doubles, 1 quad, 48 dorm beds, 2 eight-person room, 1 ten-person room, 1 twelve-person room). HOSTEL BEMMA QE‑5, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 15, tel. (+48) 531 53 15 98, www.hostelbemma.pl. 17 rooms (9 singles, 7 doubles, 4 triples, 2 quads, 50 dorm beds). 6 MLECZARNIAQD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 787 75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl. 8 rooms (4 singles, 4 doubles, 4 triples, 1 quad, 34 dorm beds). MOON HOSTELQE‑6, ul. Krupnicza 6-8 (entrance from Kazimierza Wielkiego 27), tel. (+48) 508 77 72 00, www.moonhostel.pl/wroclaw. 41 rooms (14 doubles, 12 triples, 6 quads, 5 5-person room, 2 6-person room, 1 8-person room). 6L ONE LUCKY HOSTEL QF‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 730 89 99 88, www. luckyapart.pl/pl/hostel. 21 rooms (7 doubles, 7 quads, 3 five-person, 2 six-person, 2 eight-person). 6L THE ONE HOSTEL QF‑5, ul. Rynek 30, tel. (+48) 71 337 24 02, www. onehostel.pl. 24 rooms (14 singles, 14 doubles, 1 quad, 96 dorm beds). H WRATISLAVIA QH‑7, ul. Komuny Paryskiej 19, tel. (+48) 71 360 08 22, www.hostel-wratislavia.pl. 33 rooms (2 singles, 5 doubles, 3 triples, 16 quads, 10 apartments, 40 dorm beds). 6U

HOTEL | CONGRESS CENTRE | RESTAURANT

www.terminalhotel.pl

AIRPORT HOTEL TERMINAL HOTEL Qul. Rakietowa 33 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 773 55 75, www.terminalhotel.pl. 51 rooms (51 singles, 51 doubles). PH6UK hhh iyp.me/polandblog

ul. Rakietowa 33, Wrocław tel.: + 48 71 773 55 75, biuro@terminalhotel.pl

January – April 2018

Street Register Al. Akacjowa C-12 Al. Armii Krajowej H-12; K/M-12; L-11; M-11 Al. Dąbska O-5/6; P-6 Al. Gen. Hallera A-11/12; B-12 Al. Kasztanowa B-12; C-12 Al. Kochanowskiego M-4; N-2/4; O-1/2 Al. Matejki I-2/3 Al. Różyckiego N/P-3; N-4 Al. Straży Akademickiej K-6; L-6 Al. Słowackiego G/I-5; H-6 Al. Wiązowa D-12 Al. Wiśniowa B/D-12 Alfreda Nobla E-2; F-2 Arrasowa G-6 Bacha J-1 Banacha N-4/5; O-4 Bandtkiego N-2; O-2/3 Bardzka I-12 Barlickiego I-1/2 Bartla M-5/6 Barycka I-2 Baudouina de Courtenay M-1; N-1 Bałuckiego E-7 Benedyktyńska I-4; J-4 Bernardyńska G-5; H-5 Białoskórnicza E-4/5 Biegasa P-8 Bisk. Bogedaina L-12 Bisk. Pierwszego E-1 Biskupia F-6; G-5/6 Boczna H-10 Bogusławskiego D/F-8 Borowska F-8/12 Bożego Ciała E-7; F-6/7 Braniborska A/C-5; A-4 Brodatego F-2/3 Brzeska I-9; J-9 Bujwida L-3/4; M-3 Bulwar Stanisława Kulczyńskiego G-4 Bulwar Słoneczny F-3 Bł. Czesława G-5/6 Bł. Stein I-2 Chałubińskiego L-5; M-5 Chemiczna J-3 Chopina O-2/3; P-1/2 Chrobrego F-1/2 Chudoby J-9 Ciepła F-10; G-10 Cieszkowskiego N-1/2; O-2 Cieszyńskiego D-4; E-4 Cinciały J-1 Cybulskiego E-3; F-3 Czackiego N-3; O-1/3 Czarna Woda O-1/3 Czarnieckiego A-3/4; B-4 Czarnoleska O-6/7; P-6 Czerwonego Krzyża L-3 Czysta F-7 Daszyńskiego I/K-1; K-2 Dawida G-9/10; H-10 Dembowskiego P-6 Dicksteina N-4/5 Dmowskiego C-3; D-3 Dobra B-4/5 Dobrzyńska H-6 Dolna H-1 Dolna Oława O-11; P-11/12 Drobnera F/H-3 Druckiego-Lubeckiego E-7 Drukarska C-11/12; D-10/11 Drzewna C-4 Dubois E-3; F-3 Dworcowa G-7/8 Dyrekcyjna E/G-9; F-10 Dębickiego F-1 Długa A-1; B-1/3; C-3 Elsnera P-2 Energetyczna B-10/11; C-10 Flisacka E-1 Franciszkańska E-6; F-6 Fredry F-4 Frycza-Modrzewskiego G-4; H-4/5 Gajowa G-9/12; H-11 Gajowicka A-9/12; B-9 Garbary F-4 Garncarska H-5 Gdańska L-3 Gen. Bema H-3 Gen. Dąbrowskiego G-8; H-7/8 Gen. Haukego-Bosaka H-6/7; I-7 Gen. Kniaziewicza G-7; H-7/8 Gen. Prądzyńskiego I-8/9; J-7/8 Gen. Pułaskiego G-9; H-7/9; I-7 Gen. Sikorskiego C-4; D-4 Gen. Traugutta H-6; I-6/7; J-7/9 Gepperta E-5/6 Gliniana E-9; F/H-10; F-9; H-11 Gnieźnieńska B-1/2; C-1 Grabarska D-5 Grabiszyńska A/D-7; A-8; B-8 Grabskiego C-8/9 Grochowa A-9/10; B-10 Grodzka F-4; G-4

Grunwaldzka J/M-4 Gwarna G-8 Gwiaździsta C-9/10; D-8/9 Górna Oława N/P-12; O-11 Górnickiego J-2/4 Głogowczyka N-1/2 Handelsmana N-1 Henrykowska I-11 Hercena G-7; H-7 Heweliusza P-5/6 Hoene-Wrońskiego J-5/6; K-6 Hubska G-9; H-9/12; I-12 Igielna E-5; F-5 Inowrocławska B-3/4; C-3 Jagiellończyka F-2; G-2 Jagiełły D-3/4; E-3 Janickiego G-5 Janiszewskiego K-5 Jantarowa B-10 Januszowicka B-12 Jaracza J-1/2; K-1 Jastrzębia A-12 Jedności Narodowej G-2/3; H-1/2; I-1 Jemiołowa A-8/10; B-8 Jesionowa I-12; J-11/12 Joannitów G-9/10 Jodłowa G-4/5 Joliot-Curie I-5; J-5 Jęczmienna B-7; C-7/8 Kaczmarskiego C-4 Kamienna C/G-11; G/I-12 Kanonia H-4; I-4 Kapitulna H-4 Kard. Hlonda I-4 Kard. Kominka I-4 Kard. Ledóchowskiego I-2 Kard. Wyszyńskiego I-2/5; J-1/2 Karłowicza P-1/3 Kaszubska E-2 Katedralna H-4 Kazimierza Wielkiego E/G-6; E-5 Kaznodziejska F-5; G-5 Kiełbaśnicza E-4/5 Kilińskiego G-2/3 Kluczborska H-1/2; I-2 Kolberga O-2 Kolejowa B/D-7; B-6; D-8 Komandorska D-10/11; E-8/10; F-8 Komuny Paryskiej G/I-7; I-8 Kopernika N-4; O-4/6/7; P-4/6 Kotlarska F-5; G-5 Kołłątaja F-8; G-7/8 Kościuszki D/G-7; G/J-8; J-9 Krakowska J-9/M-12 Krakusa A-12; B-11/12 Krasińskiego H-5/7 Krawiecka G-5/6 Krowia G-5 Krucza A/C-10 Krupnicza D-6; E-6 Kruszwicka A-4; B-4 Krzywa K-3 Krzywickiego N-1 Kręta G-1/2 Ks. Damrota J-1; K-1 Ks. Kraińskiego G-4/5 Ks. Poniatowskiego H-2/3 Ks. Schneidera B-9; C-9 Ks. Skargi G-6/7 Ks. Szramka O-2 Ks. Witolda D/F-4; D-3 Kujawska I-6 Kurkowa E-1/3 Kuronia E-12; F-12 Kurzy Targ F-5 Kuźnicza F-4/5 Kwaśna A-9 Kładka Słodowa F-3 Kładka Żabia G-3 Legnicka A/C-4; C-5; D-5 Lelewela C-7; D-7 Leszczyńskiego E-6; F-6 Lipińskiego P-2/3 Liskego M-3/4 Litomska A-3/4; B-2/3 Lniana H-11 Lompy J-1 Lubińska A-3 Lubuska A/C-8 Lwowska A-8; B-8 Malarska E-4; F-4/5 Manganowa A-7/8 Marcinkowskiego M-5 Marsz. Piłsudskiego D-6/7; E/G-8; E-7 Mazowiecka I-5/6 Małachowskiego G-8; H-8/9; I-9 Mennicza F-6; G-6 Mianowskiego M/O-1 Miarki J-1 Michalczyka B-3; C-2/3 Mickiewicza M-6; N/P-5; N-6; P-4 Miernicza I-7/8 Mieszczańska D-3; E-3

92 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Mieszka I H-3 Mikulicza-Radeckiego M-4/5 Minkowskiego K-4; L-4 Międzyrzecka M-7/8; N-8/9; O-9/10; P-10 Miła J-4 Modrzejewskiej E-6; F-6 Moniuszki O-2; P-2 Most Grunwaldzki J-5 Most Ks. Skargi G-7 Mostowa D-4 Most Uniwersytecki F-4 Most Zaleski O-2 Muzealna D-7; E-6/7 Myśliwska G-2 Młodnickiego K-1 Młodych Techników B-2/4 Nabycińska C-4/6 Na Grobli J/M-7; J-6; M/O-8; O-9; P-9 Najśw. Marii Panny G-4; H-4 Na Końcu O-1 Namysłowska H-1 Na Niskich Łąkach J/N-9 Nasypowa D-8; E-8 Na Szańcach H-3 Nauczycielska J-5; K-5 Nehringa J-4/5 Niemcewicza G-1/2 Norwida K-5/6; L-4/5 Noskowskiego P-2 Nowa G-6 Nowowiejska H-1; I/K-2; I-1; K-3; L-3/4 Nowy Świat E-4/5; F-4 Nożownicza F-4/5; G-5 Nyska I-11/12; J-12 Odrzańska E-5; F-4/5 Ofiar Oświęcimskich E/G-6; E-5 Oficerska A-10; B-10 Okólna L-8/9; M-7/8 Oleśnicka H-2; I-2 Oporowska A-8 Orzeszkowej I-1; J-1/2; K-2 Otmuchowska I-12 Otwarta E-2 Owsiana B/D-8 Oławska F/H-6; F-5 Ołbińska F-1; G-1/2 Ołowiana A-9 Pabianicka D-10; E-10 Paczkowska I-11/12 Parkowa N-4/5 Paulińska F-2 Pawłowa C-6; D-6 Pereca A-8/9 Peronowa F-8 Pestalozziego I-2 Petrusewicza E-10; F-10 Piaskowa G-4/5 Piastowska K-3/5; L-3 Pilata N-1 Piwna J-4 Piękna I/K-12 Pl. Bisk. Nankiera F-4; G-4 Pl. Borna E-3 Pl. Dominikański G-5 Pl. Gen. Bema H-3 Pl. Gen. Wróblewskiego I-6/7 Pl. Grunwaldzki J/L-5; L-4; M-4 pl. Grunwaldzki L-4/5 Pl. Hirszfelda B-9; C-9/10 Pl. Jana Pawła II D-5 Pl. Katedralny H-4; I-4 Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja G-8 Pl. Kościelny H-4 Pl. Kościuszki E-7; F-7 Pl. Ks. Staszica E-1/2; F-1/2 Pl. Legionów D-7 Pl. Muzealny D-7 Pl. Nowy Targ G-5 Pl. Orląt Lwowskich C-5/6; D-6 Pl. Pereca A-8 Pl. Polski H-5 Pl. Powstańców Warszawy H-6; I-5/6 Pl. Powstańców Wielkopolskich F-1 Pl. Powstańców Śląskich B-11; C-11 Pl. Rozjezdny C-7/8 Pl. Solidarności C-4 Pl. Solny E-5 Pl. Strzegomski A-4/5 Pl. Strzelecki E-1/2 Pl. Słowiański H-1 Pl. Teatralny F-6 Pl. Uniwersytecki F-4 Pl. Westerplatte K-3 Pl. Wolności E-6 Pl. Zamenhofa G-11/12 Pl. Zgody J-8 Pl. Św. Krzysztofa F-6; G-6 Pl. Św. Macieja F-2/3; G-2/3 Pl. Św. Mikołaja C-4 Pobożnego G-2 Pochyła A-7; B-7 Pocztowa B-11/12; C-11 Podchorążych A-11; B-11

Podwale D-4/6; E/G-7; E-6; G-6; H-6 Podwórcowa E-2 Polaka J-4/5 Pomorska E-1/4; F-2/3 Portowa B-1/2; C-1 Powstańców Śląskich A-12; B-11/12; C-10/11; D-8/10; E-8/9 Poznańska A-2/4; B-2 Pretficza A-10; B-10/11 Probusa G-2/3 Prosta C-6/7 Prudnicka H-11; I-11 Prusa G-3; H/K-2; H-3 Przekop Szczytnicki L-6; M-6 Przeskok H-2/3 Przestrzenna F/H-11 Psie Budy E-5 Pszenna C-8 Ptasia E-2 Pugeta P-7/8 Purkyniego G/I-5 Racławicka A-12; B-12 Radosna D-9/10 Rakowiecka L-8; M-8/10 Reja J-4; K-2/4 Rejtana F-8 Reymonta E-1 Robotnicza A/C-5; B-6; C-6 Roentgena L-4 Rondo Anny German G-2 Rondo Ronalda Reagana K-5 Rondo Václava Havla C-10 Rondo Żołnierzy Wyklętych B-9 Roosevelta H-1/2 Rostafińskiego F-2 Rozbrat J-2/3 Ruska D-5; E-5 Rybacka C-3/4 Rydygiera F-2/3 Rynek E-5; F-5 Rynek Szczepiński A-3 Rzeźbiarska P-8 Rzeźnicza E-4/5 Salezjańska B-4 Sanocka E-10 Sernicka I-11 Sienkiewicza H/K-3; K-4; L-4 Sieradzka E-10; F-10 Skibińskiego M-12 Skwer Adolfa Marii Bocheńskiego J-4 Skwer Idaszewskiego K-5 Skwerowa E-9; F-9 Skwierzyńska B-8/9; C-8 Składowa E-2 Skłodowskiej-Curie J-4; K/M-5; K-4; M-6 Smolecka A-5 Smoleńskiego O-1 Smoluchowskiego K-5; L-5/6 Sokolnicza C-4/5; D-4 Sopocka L-3; M-3 Sołtysia A-4; B-4 Spadochroniarzy B-11 Spiska E-12; F-11/12 Srocza E-2 Stara Odra L-1/7; M-1/7 Starogroblowa A-1 Staromłyńska G-4 Stawowa F-7/8 Strażnicza F-3 Strzegomska A-4/5 Studzienna E-9 Styki i Kossaka H-5 Stysia C-8; D-7/8 Sucha F-9; G-9 Suchardy L-4 Sudecka C-11/12 Sukiennice F-5 Swobodna D-8; E-8/9; F-9 Szajnochy E-5/6 Szczepińska C-4 Szczytnicka I-4; J-4 Szczytnicki K-6; L-6 Szczytnicko-Bartoszowicka M-6/P-8 Szczęśliwa A-8; B/D-9; B-8; D-10 Szewska F-4/6; G-4 Szpitalna B-7 Sztabowa A/D-11; C/E-12 Szybka J-7 Szymanowskiego O-3; P-2/3 Sądowa D-6/7 Sępa-Szarzyńskiego I-4; J-2/4 Słowiańska F/H-1 Słowicza A-11/12 Teatralna F-6/7; G-7 Tomaszowska G-11 Tramwajowa P-6/7 Trwała D-10 Trzebnicka F-1/2; G-2 Trzemeska B-4/5 Tęczowa A-7; B-6/7; C-6 Ukryta J-3 Ulanowskiego A-12 Uniwersytecka F-4

Upust Klary F-3; G-3 Upust Powodziowy Klary G-3/4 Urbańskiego P-8 W. A. Mozarta J-1; K-1 Walecznych K-2/3 Walońska I-6 Wandy A-11; B-11/12 Wapienna H-11/12 Warzywnicza H-2 Wesoła F-10/11; G-10/11 Widna H-12 Widok F-6 Wieczysta F/H-12 Wielka C/E-10; E-11 Wieniawskiego P-1 Wierzbowa G-6/7 Wilcza L/O-11 Wita Stwosza F-5; G-5 Witelona N-4/5 Wittiga P-7/8 Wiwulskiego O-8; P-7/8 Więckowskiego J-8/9 Więzienna F-4/5 Wodna G-4 Wojciecha z Brudzewa N-3 Wolbromska A-12 Worcella H-7; I-7 Wrocławczyka J-5 Wróbla A-10/11 Wróblewskiego M/O-6; O-7; P-7 Wszystkich Świętych D-4/5 Wyb. Pasteura M-4/6 Wyb. Słowackiego I-5/6; J-5/6 Wyb. Wyspiańskiego J/M-6; J-5 Wygodna I-1/2 Wysoka A-7/8 Wystawowa N-5/6 Wąska F-2 Włodkowica D-5/6; E-6 Zachodnia A-3; B-3/4; C-4 Zamkowa E-6 Zaolziańska D-9; E-9 Zapolskiej D-8; E-7/8 Zaporoska B-7/10; C-10/11 Zaułek Browarny C-8; D-8 Zaułek Ferdynanda Lassalla E-11 Zaułek Ossolińskich G-4 Zaułek Wolski F-8 Zdrowa B-7 Zelwerowicza C-5; D-5 Zgodna J-8 Zielińskiego C-8/9; D-7/9 Zielonego Dębu O-6/7; P-6 Ziemowita B-5; C-5 Zyndrama z Maszkowic E-3/4 Łaciarska F-5/6; G-4/5 Ładna J-4 Łazienna E-4 Łokietka F-3 Łowiecka E-1 Łukasiewicza L-5/6 Łukasińskiego I-7/8 Łódzka G-10/12 Łączności B-10/11 Łąkowa E-7 Łęczycka B-2 Ścinawska A-2/3; B-3 Śliczna F/H-12 Śluza Mieszczańska E-4; F-4 Śluza Szczytniki L-6 Ślężna D-12; E-9/12; F-9/10 Śniadeckich M-1; N-1/2; O-2 Środkowa C-4 Śrutowa F-3 Św. Anny G-4 Św. Antoniego D-5; E-5 Św. Barbary D-4/5 Św. Doroty E-6 Św. Ducha G-4 Św. Elżbiety E-5 Św. Idziego H-4 Św. Jadwigi G-3/4 Św. Jerzego H-11 Św. Józefa I-4 Św. Kapistrana H-5 Św. Katarzyny G-5 Św. Marcina H-3/4 Św. Marii Magdaleny F-5 Św. Mikołaja D-5; E-5 Św. Trójcy C-6/7 Św. Wincentego E-2; F-1/2; G-1 Św. Wita G-5 Świdnicka E-6/8; F-6/7 Świebodzka D-6/7; E-7 Świstackiego I-8/9 Świętochowskiego O-1 Świętokrzyska H-2/4 Żabia Ścieżka J-8; K-8 Żelazna A-8/9; B-9 Żeromskiego H-2; I-1/2 Żiżki C-3; D-3 Żytnia B-7/8; C-8

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Index Ahimsa Restaurant & Club 44 Akira Bed & Breakfast 90 AleBrowar 47 Amorinio.pl 24 Antyki przy Szewskiej 79 Archaeology Museum 58 Archdiocese Museum 67 Architecture Museum 58 Arkady Wrocławskie 82 Art Apart 90 Art Cafe Kalambur 52 Art Hotel 87 Barka Tumska 30 Baszta 44 Baszta Niedźwiadka 10 B&B Hotel 90 Bema Cafe 24, 42 Bernard 30 Bezsenność 52 Bierhalle 50 Bistro Station 44 Blackboard Pub 47 BLT & Taps 27 Boogie ApartHouse 91 Boogie Hostel 91 Boogie Hostel Deluxe 90 Boutique Brajt Hotel 88 Brasserie 27 30 Browar Złoty Pies 50 Bułka z Masłem 24 Butchery & Grill 27 Cafeterie Chic 65 Campanile Wrocław Stare Miasto 88 CAMPO 30 Capri Ristorante Pizzeria 36 Casa de la Musica 47 Cathedral of St. John the Baptist 67 Centennial Hall & Discovery Centre 69 Central Cafe 24, 42 Cepelia 80 Ceregiele 47 Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre 77 Chatka Przy Jatkach 40 Chimney Cake Bakery 25 Church of Saints Peter & Paul 66 Church of the Holy Cross / St. Bartholomew's 67 Cilantro Bed & Breakfast 90 Cinnamon 91 Citi Hotel's 88 Cocofli 25 Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whisky 48 Czary Mary 31 Darea Sushi Korean - Japanese Restaurant 37 De' Molika 79

94 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Dinette 42 Doctor's Bar 48 Domówka 52 DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Wrocław 86 Duet 88 Dwór Polski 40, 87 Egg Cafe 29 Ethnographic Museum 58 Etno Cafe 25 Europejski 88 Europeum 87 Exclusive World Apartments 90 Feniks Department Store 81 Firlej 53 Folkowo-ludowo 80 Folkstar 80 Frankie's 25 Free Walking Tour Foundation 56 Galeria Dominikańska 82 Galeria Handlowa Sky Tower 82 Galeria Schubert 78 Gorące Piece 40 Grampa's Hostel 91 Grey Music Club 52 Hala Targowa 10 Hortyca 44 Hostel Bemma 91 Hotel Piast 90 Hydropolis 62 Ibis Budget Wrocław Stadion 90 Ibis Styles Wrocław Centrum 88 Iglica 68

Imaginarium 76 Jadka 41 Jaś & Małgosia 8 Karczma Lwowska 41 Knajpa Kres 44 Konspira 41, 59 Kontynuacja 48 Korba.Tu się bywa 31 KRVN 48 La Maddalena 38 La Scala 36 Le Bistrot Parisien 29 Leoapart 90 Ligero Cigar & Rum Lounge 49 Lilou 78 Lower Silesian Cultural Information Centre 57 Lucky Apartments 90 Lwia Brama2 65 Mama Manousch 31 Mañana Cafe 53 Manufaktura w Bolesławcu 80 Marina 32 Market Square 7 Marynka Piwo i Aperitivo 49 Masala Indian Restaurant 29 Mennicza Fusion 32 Mercure Wrocław Centrum 87 Mleczarnia 49, 91 Moaburger 27 Mobo 80 Monopol 86 Monopol Spa & Wellness Centre 77 Moon Hostel 91 Motyla Noga 49 Municipal Swimming Pools 77

Nadodrze Cafe Resto Bar 32 Nagi Kamerdyner 48 Najadacze.pl 45 National Museum 59 Nietota 50 Niezły Dym 36 No Name Apartments 90 Novotel Wrocław City 89 Nowe Horyzonty 76 Ogień 36 Ohh!! Sushi & Grill 37 Oh My! Concept Store 80 OK Wine Bar 32, 49 Old Jewish Cemetery 72 One Lucky Hostel 91 Orientuj się 28 Osiem Misek 28 OVO Bar & Restaurant 33 Padbar 50 Panczo 39 panpablo.pl 80 Pan Tadeusz Museum 59 Papa Bar 50 Park Hotel Diament Wrocław 88 Partisan Hill 60 Pasibus 44 Patio 89 Pergola Ice Rink 76 Phathathai 43 Piec na Szewskiej 37 Pinto Peri-Peri & Grill 43 Piwnica Świdnicka 42 Plac Solny 7 Platinum Palace 87 Pochlebna 42 Pod Fredrą 42

Neon Side gallery in all its glory (p.58).

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Index The Henryk Tomaszewski Museum of Theather 60 The One Hostel 91 The Ossolineum 10 The Royal Palace, History Museum 60 The White Stork Synagogue 73 Think Love Juices & Vegan Food Wrocław OVO 45 TourCity Panorama 56 Tourist Information 57 Tourist Information - Wrocław Airport 57 Tourist Information - Wrocław Główny 57 Tourist Information - Wrocław Zoo 57 Town Hall, Museum of Burgher Art 7 Tumski 89 Umami Dumpling & Pasta Bar 40 University Church of the Blessed Name of Jesus 10 Vega 45 Vena Pottery 80 Trippy street art in Wro. Pod Latarniami 50 Pod Papugami 33, 51 Polish Poster Gallery 79 Polonia 89 PRL 53 Przystań 33 PULPA 80 PURO Hotel Wrocław 88 Q Hotel Plus Wrocław 88 Qubus Hotel Wrocław 88 Questa 33 Racławice Panorama 56 Radisson Blu 87 RAGU Pracownia Makaronu 39 Renoma 82 Restauracja Acquario 34 Restauracja Europejska 34 Restauracja Monopol 42 Rodeo Grill Steak House 28 Sakana Sushi Bar 38 Sarah 38 Scandal Boutique 80 Scandic Wrocław 88 Setka - Bar Polski Ludowej 42, 48 Shrimp House 39 Silver Apartments 90 Sky Tower 57 SleepWalker Boutique Suites 88 Soczewka 28 Sofia 89

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Sofitel Wrocław Old Town 87 Spa Centre Wrocław 77 Spiż Brewery 50 Stare Jatki 8 Stary Klasztor 34 Statek Restauracja Wratislavia 34 St. Dorothy's 90 St. Elizabeth's Church 8 St. Martin's Church 66 Sukiennice 7 35 Surowiec 53 Świebodzki Bazaar 81 Święta Racja 43 System Hotel Wrocław 89 Szajba 51 Szajnochy 11 38 Szklarnia 51 Szynkarnia 51 Tajne Komplety 80 Targowa Craft Beer & Food 51 Taszka Wine & Petiscos 43 Terminal Hotel 91 Thai Lanna 77 The Bente Kahan Foundation 72 The Depot History Centre 60 The Four Dome Pavilion: Museum of Contemporary Art 69 The Granary La Suite Hotel Wroclaw City Center 87

Vertigo Jazz Club & Restaurant 35, 53 Vinyl Cafe 25 Vivere Italiano 37 Warsztat - Food & Garden 35 Water Tower 62 Winnica na Solnym 49 W kontakcie 44 Wodnik 89 Wodnik Restaurant 35 Wratislavia 77, 91 Wratislavia Tour 56 Wroclavia 82 Wrocław Aquapark 77 Wrocław City Tours 56 Wrocław Contemporary Museum 61 Wrocław Fashion Outlet 82 Wrocław Sightseeing Tours 57 Wrocław - Silesia Tours 57 Wrocław Souvenirs 81 Wrocław University 9 Wrocław Zoo & Afrykarium 70 zjemBAO 44

FEATURES & CATEGORIES Breakfast 42 Breweries 50 City Moat 9 Currency Exchange 84 Decoding the Menu 27 District of Mutual Respect 73 Hot Beer? 47 Hydropolis 62 Churches of Peace 87 Konspira 59 Live Music 53 Nave Sculpture 67 Neon Wrocław 58 Pączki 40 Partisan Hill 60 Pasaż Niepolda 52 Polish Snacks & Shots 48 Quick Eats 44 Racławice Panorama 56 Recovered Territories 70 Sky Tower 57 Solpol 89 Street Art 61 The Lamplighter 66 Tipping Tribulations 27 Transport App 15 Wait, Where Am I? 55 Wrocław Historical Timeline 17 January – April 2018

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Art Apart

The centre of FASHION

Where fashion and the latest trends meet at the very heart of the city

The centre of TASTE

Where flavours from around the world mix together and every dish is a culinary journey

The centre of EVENTS

Where people and ideas connect and amazing events take place during whole year

100

S H O P S only 5 min. walk to old town SHOPPING CENTRE GALERIA DOMINIKAŃSKA PL. DOMINIKAŃSKI 3, 50-159 WROCŁAW OPENING HOURS: Monday – Saturday: 9:30 a.m. – 9:00 p.m. Sunday: 10:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m. OPENING HOURS Carrefour: Monday – Friday: 8:00 a.m. – 10:00 p.m. Saturday: 9:00 a.m. – 10:00 p.m. Sunday: 10:00 a.m. – 9:00 p.m.

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