Karisa Whelan
Nivedh Sreejit
Table of Contents 目次 Editor’s Note 4 Prez Talk 6 Hokkaido and Kansai 8 Sapporo Coffee Review 12 Cover Blown 20 Kyun-chan 24
Editor’s Notes Samantha Peterson Editor Edwin Arce II Designer
Have you turned on your stove yet? I haven’t, but I did wear a down coat to work today.
Karisa Whelan
Next submission deadline is October 31. Please send your submissions to editor@hajet.org!
Nivedh Sreejit
Betrice Yambrach, President
W
ith the Welcome Parties officially behind us, I want to give a big Otsukare to all of our Regional Representatives for doing such an amazing job in coordinating and managing the parties. In addition, I want to thank our HEC Leaders and volunteers for coming out to represent and fundraise for HEC. At Northern Welcome Party alone, HEC made about ￥100,000 from the bake auction. To put that into perspective, that’s enough money to send ten kids to HEC Camp next summer. Last but not least, I also want to thank all of you, our members, who traveled half of the island or more (or just down the street) to come out and party with us. The Welcome Parties definitely wouldn’t have been as awesome as they were if it weren’t for you. Planning a Welcome Party for HAJET isn’t easy. For a lot of Regional Reps, this is the first time they’ve planned an event in a foreign country and in a language that they may not understand. As with any kind of event planning, there is always something unpredictable that suddenly pops up, throwing all previous plans out the window. Last year during Welcome Party season we experienced some powerful typhoons that completely wiped out one of our campgrounds a week before the party. This year, Costco decided that just before Sapporo Welcome Party would be a great time to renovate its food court, preventing us from its large, delicious pizza.
ed and changed at the last minute. In addition, the Welcome Parties are some of our most heavily attended HAJET events. They’re a firstyear’s initial look into HAJET and what it is we do and represent. Therefore, we want to make these Welcome Parties the best they can be. This alone creates a lot of pressure for the Regional Reps. Adding cultural and language barriers in addition to life’s mysterious and inconvenient ways, organizing a Welcome Party is tough. Nevertheless, every year our Regional Reps conquer these challenges (and more!) and throw some incredible parties. For this, I will always respect HAJET’s Regional Reps for the work they do and the adversity they overcome to make each Welcome Party so successful and unique. In a larger perspective, this attitude reflects that entire HAJET community and our incredible ability to make the most out of any situation.
HAJET always strives to make our events fun, inclusive, and accessible, meaning that we rely on the feedback from our membership to do just that. Some of the most recent feedback we received has lead to our new International Event Funding policy, in addition to our changeover from Gmail to Mailchimp for sending out membership-wide emails. Though Welcome Party season is over, HAJET wants to hear from you about how we can make next year’s parties even better! If you are interested in sending us feedback, or just want to get in touch, feel free to contact me at president@ hajet.org, or any of the other Prefectural Council members at their HAJET email accounts, When these kinds of things happen, it’s which can be found under the “Who We Are” stressful because we’re talking about months page at Hajet.org. of planning having to be completely disregard-
Hokkaido and Kansai
Samantha Peterson
Ryan Love
mountains are to major roads and public transportation; my friends took me for a y name is Ryan and I’m a first-year drive through a town on the border of Mie JET on my second appointment on and Nara Prefectures that was built straight the JET program. Previously I spent onto the switchbacks of a mountainside! three amazing years as an ALT in Mie Prefecture on the eastern edge of the Kansai Incidentally, the biggest shock I had reRegion (Western Japan). Last year I decid- turning to Kansai was how narrow the roads ed to apply for a CIR position and request- are, which I had simply gotten used to while ed a placement in Northern Japan. Roughly living there and all but forgotten after reeight months later I found myself disem- turning to the U.S. Possibly because the old barking at New Chitose and riding in a 1980s towns were built before the advent of the Honda with my new supervisor to Takikawa automobile, and because the steep slopes City. I was extremely curious to discover the stand in defiance of infrastructure renovadifferences between my former host pre- tions, many suburban roads are scarcely fecture and region and my new home, but wide enough for a single car. Not only that in the whirlwind of the past few months I but they also host foot and bicycle traffic, haven’t had the time to really reflect on my so you really have to keep your eyes and impressions. Fortunately I was able to take ears open at all times. To top it off, there are a sojourn down to the Kansai region over several open-air drainage gutters flanking the Silver Week holiday, which helped to the roads – these are lovingly referred to as throw the contrasts between Northern and “Gaijin Traps” in the expat community due Western Japan into relief. In a culture that to the high number of foreigners that fall in. continually reinforces its own uniformity, I I’m relieved to have not yet discovered one can say with confidence that Japan is more in Hokkaido! While I do not have a car of my varied than it gives itself credit for! own yet, I have driven for work occasionally and am very grateful for the generous width My only experience in Hokkaido before of the roads here. this year was a three-day trip to Sapporo for the 2013 Snow Festival. Upon arriving Another notable change has been the clithis summer, I was struck by the unique mate. Kansai has hot and humid summers, scenery and geography while being driv- cold but almost snowless winters, and the en through the rolling hills and open land- dreaded rainy season from mid-May to late scapes of Southern and Central Sorachi. June. For a Boston-native like myself, July In three years of living in Mie and traveling was almost unbearable! My one trip to Sapextensively around the country, I had never poro in February made a lasting impression seen such wide and sloping hills dotted with – I’m far better suited to the cold and the vegetable farms and livestock pastures. I snow, and was immediately envious of the was immediately reminded of the American northern island’s residents. Stepping out Midwest, particularly the northern states of of New Chitose this year into a mild, windy Minnesota and Wisconsin where I had va- summer day after two sweltering days in cationed in June. Returning to Kansai this Tokyo was enough to convince me I had repast month, I was struck by how close the ally lucked out. While I may eat my words in
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a few months (Takikawa experiences some of the highest snowfall on the island), I’ve been through enough harsh winters to feel confident!
country. A notable example is Tōdai-ji, originally built in 752, which hosts one of Japan’s best-known Daibutsu (Giant Buddha Statues). As many of you know, Hokkaido by contrast was only acquired by Japan in the 19th Century, and its prior history is that of the indigenous Ainu people. While modern-day Hokkaido is unmistakably Japanese, the feeling of “old Japan” that one feels in Kansai is notably weaker. I confess to not having yet investigated the history of the Ainu in depth, but I’m excited to begin that journey!
Differences run deeper than geography and weather of course. The Kansai region has a long history of cultural and historical significance to Japan. Mie Prefecture is the home of Ise Grand Shrine, where the sun goddess Amaterasu-Ōmikami is enshrined. She is considered to be the progenitor of the Imperial Family. Nara City was the capital of Japan from 710 to 794, and Nara Prefecture boasts many of the oldest and One final difference I would like to share most important Buddhist temples in the is the language. Japan is filled with various
regional dialects, and Kansai boasts one of the better known ones. Kansai Dialect is often treated as a single dialect, although it is somewhat fluid depending on where in Kansai you are. Regional dialects (called Hōgen or Ben) usually include unique sentence-final particles or verb conjugations, as well as certain other vocabulary. For example, a negative verb ending in nai might end in hen or hin, and the agreement-seeking particle ne may become na or ni (the latter especially in Mie). One of the best known examples of Kansai Dialect is its version of Sō da ne (“That’s right”): Se ya na. Hearing it again for the first time in three years was like a
breath of fresh air! While most of the Japanese I’ve heard spoken in Hokkaido lines up more closely with the textbook “Tokyo-style” Japanese I learned in school, I’ve been happy to learn a few of its regional vocabulary, including Zangi for Kara’age (deep-fried food, usually chicken) and Tōkibi for Tōmorokoshi (corn cob). In reapplying to the JET Program, I wanted to be sure that my second experience would be distinctly different from my first one. Thus far I am hopeful that my time in Hokkaido will offer just that!
Samantha Peterson
Sapporo Coffee Review
Edwin Arce II
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’m not usually a latte kinda guy, but Streamer’s made a convert out of me. I usually skip any place that doesn’t have drip or pour-over, but the strong recommendations for this spot convinced me to give it a shot. I did—and I haven’t looked back. Located on the fourth floor of the Stellar Palace Center above the Sapporo train station, Streamer is neatly laid out with plenty of seating in a clean, modern setting. English isn’t their strong-suit, but the menu is clear enough, and the baristas are patient and friendly. I sat down, connected to the surprisingly speedy wifi, plugged into one of the many outlets, and waited for my coffee. It came in a large mug with a flawless, densely drawn rosetta running boldly down the center. The
balance between the sweet milk and well-extracted espresso was as good as can be, with a delightful butteriness following warmly on the heels of the earthy, nutty coffee base. The thick milk maintained its composition well throughout my nearly interminable sippage. Streamer has become a staple of my visits to Sapporo and by now I’ve sampled a decent chunk of their menu. From tea bases to frozen fruit drinks, as well as some of their eats, I haven’t been disappointed once. It’s worth noting that this is a national chain, so if you like Streamer you can find them at over 20 locations in Tokyo, Osaka, Kobe, Kanagawa, and Nagoya!
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bout a 20 minute walk from the main station is an unassuming storefront belying a modern rustic-chic interior, full of rough wood tables and counters, splashes of English, ancient magazines, and a plethora of water-logged books. The day’s coffee menu is a bit difficult to read, full of kanji written by hand on a chalkboard. They have decaf, strong, and light. Not the level of detail I’m snootily accustomed to, but who cares if the coffee is good? And it is. I chose their lighter variety and found it to be a slight bit unconventional, but delightfully good—perhaps even “Good”. It’s as if they extracted the best qualities of the typical 20th century, at-home cup directly into their brew, removing the bad parts entirely.
What remains is earthy, homey, nostalgic, delightfully “coffee-y”, and, ultimately, delicious. Their food offerings are limited to sandwiches, yet once again I managed to be surprised. I like sandwiches well enough, but I’m rarely brought to smiling by one. I
ordered the “meat sandwich” and it was served with a small salad (no mere afterthought itself). The sandwich was perfectly grilled, with two kinds of excellent cheese, three kinds of sliced salami, and just the barest scrape of something slightly spicy (perhaps sriracha?). The guy behind the counter is gregarious, patient, and may ask to take your picture. Great place for coffee, sandwiches, fast wifi, a surplus of outlets, a mix of reading material, and an amusing jumble of rock and pop roaring off a small speaker in the corner by the door. Oh and I think there’s hammocks upstairs, but I didn’t get a chance to check…. This shop doesn’t do a lot—but what they do, they do incredibly well.
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his spot is a touch out of the way—about 40 minutes by foot from the main station, or a 1500 yen taxi—near the Maruyamakoen station. That said, it’s worth every effort to get there. Not for the coffee— the coffee is… lacking, in my opinion. You have to go for the simple experience of sitting inside and relaxing. Stepping inside Café Morihiko is like stepping into a coffee shop at the edges of Diagon Alley. The small, vine-covered house seems laden with history from the outside and almost Medieval on the inside. You’re greeted by a dark, wellworn wood interior
and a counter heaped with dishes behind the baristas and a stack of glass bulbs and tubes reminiscent of an alchemist’s lab in front. To the left is a large, hefty table in a room filled with knick-knacks; up a set of impressively steep, narrow stairs is a precarious second floor seating area overlooking the first floor. This is the perfect place to sit with a friend or kick back with a book and soak up the magical atmosphere.
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his place is pretty cool, even if the coffee itself is just “okay”. It’s south of the river and housed in a big warehouse. On the first floor is the roastery and a counter where you can order whole beans or a cup to go. The second floor has the seating. It’s a little dark, but each place to sit has its own little light that makes reading or seeing your food in front of you no problem at all. There isn’t much I can say about this place except that if you want decent coffee, excellent food (they have a full menu of meals and desserts), and a hip, Third Wave aesthetic, this is a great place to chill. No wifi or outlets though.
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h man. If Charming and Cozy gave birth to a child and that child grew up to be a coffee shop, this would be it. Okay, bad analogy. But for real, this place is a hidden gem. Little Fort Coffee is situated along an unassuming street of a quiet suburb in a tiny, one room house. The dĂŠcor is simple and minimalist. The coffee options are straight forward and strong. The music is soft. The wifi is non-existent. But the simple, warm space full of natural light and attentive, joyful owners makes this the perfect place to bring a book, look out the large bay window, and sip a nice cuppa joe.
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ust two blocks off Odori, this tiny coffee shop with its triangular entrance seems like a quiet haven literally wedged into the downtown madness. The space is almost entirely standing room, and there’s little room for even that, but the friendly, English-speaking baristas and solid coffee make up for it. This shop has an extra special quirk: They feature Hokkaido local milk and the map behind the counter describes the location of each milk and its different qualities—rated on sweetness, richness, and mellowness. It’s unique, it’s relaxing, and it’s right in the heart of downtown!
Cover Blown
Karisa Whelan
Cassidy Charles
people? Eventually, I was one of the only four competitors left in the women’s cate’d always thought that my intro- gory which meant I would be competing on duction to my small town would stage, in front of my entire town. Cue panic. be more of a tiny explosion, rather than the spark that starts a wildI walked back and forth in front of my fire. During our various JET orien- seat in the information booth, griping about tations, one piece of advice that how I really didn’t want to go on stage. I’ve stuck out to me was: say yes to performed before so it wasn’t stage fright. things! Reach out. Move fast and Though I suppose I was scared that my break things. (The last one was a pride would take a hit if I lost the first round. quote I saw somewhere years ago Still, my friend pushed me onto the stage but the meaning is still there.) I’m and I found myself already in second place not really the ‘say yes to an invita- after three rounds. The championship round tion I only understood 60% of’ kind of between me and the first place winner took person, but I digress. 1 minute. I shrieked a few times during the bout. Somewhat of a mix between shouting I ended up saying yes to participat- for power and shouting because it felt like ing in one of the two large summer fes- the woman on the other side of the mat was tivals in my town. I worked with some of going to snap my arm. Well, second place the people from the town hall to set up the wasn’t bad. I got a shiny medal as my prize festival grounds and worked in the informa- and a box of fish I had no idea what to do tion booth. Working for the festival, howev- with. First place winners had to arm wrestle er, meant that I was first in line to fill spaces the national arm wrestling champions and for festival events if town participation was needless to say, hard pass. lacking. Long story short, my friend roped me into signing up for an arm wrestling My co-workers, friends and the townscontest. This would prove to be one of my people couldn’t believe how well I did. Neiawesome but unbelievable memories for ther could I really. There were so many peothis summer. ple excited to talk to me and understand why I was in Japan, let alone their town. At first, I didn’t mind participating. I as- One vendor at the fair gave even me free sumed I would lose to my friend who was roasted sweet potatoes as a congratulatory much stronger than me, and I would get a gift! Now, the moral of the story for me was nice consolation prize. Admittedly, I knew to continue to put myself out there because I would shock people hovering around the not even I know what I’m capable of. As cliarm wrestling tent because I would be ché as it sounds, arm wrestling made me the first black person they would see off- more comfortable and confident in a sense. screen, but I kept my sunglasses on and I wanted to stay under the radar, but it was tried to keep a low profile. After I surpris- better for me to just enjoy myself and let ingly won my first bracket, fate kept pitting others get used to my presence naturally. me against weaker competitors. I’m fluffy, The more I tried to hide, the worse it would I don’t lift. How in the world was I beating be trying to adjust to living here. It’s hard to
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ignore the stares and whispers but if they’re school. My co-teachers refused the offer going to do it anyway, I might as well give on my behalf, but knowing that one mothem something good to talk about. ment on stage made my students eager to interact with me made The festival ended with a huge show blowing my cover worth it. featuring a taiko school, a band, and an amazing fireworks show. Afterwards, I gave my friends all of my prize fish and headed home. My fifteen minutes of fame were over and I had made some great memories. I also unknowingly left an impression on my current students, who all wanted to challenge me to a match on the first day of
Karisa Whelan
Kyun-chan Every month, Samantha Peterson explores a different aspect of Hokkaido-specific culture. This time she’s discussing our Hokkaido overlord, Kyun-chan. You live in Hokkaido, but do you really know anything about the small furry animal that represents us? Take this exhilarating Kyun-chan trivia quiz to find out!
1.
What kind of animal is Kyun-chan? a. Ezoshika (deer) b. Higuma (bear) c. Ezo flying squirrel d. Pika
2.
What gender is Kyun-chan? a. It’s unclear b. Boy c. Girl d. Other
3.
What does Kyun-chan eat? a. Only the cabbage that’s served on the side of tonkatsu b. Food that’s not meat, unless the meat is genghis khan c. Everything and anything d. Uncooked instant ramen noodles
4.
Where is Kyun-chan from? a. The chilly far north of Wakkanai b. The natural beauty of Shiretoko c. The hustle and bustle of Sapporo d. The towering peaks of Daisetsuzan
5.
What is “Kyun” Japanese onomatopoeia for? a. It’s the sound of a large intestine digesting conbini food b. It’s the sound your teeth make when they clack together from shivering in the cold c. It’s the sound of something touching your heart d. It’s the sound of your brain figuring out how to escape from a bear
Got your answers? Turn to the next page to find out if you’re right.
1. The correct answer is D! Kyun-chan is a pika, which is small rabbit-like mammal that lives in mountainous regions of Asia. However, if you picked deer or bear you aren’t actually that far off. Kyun-chan has a number of different “disguises” they wear to travel around Hokkaido, including the form we’re so familiar with (their lovely deer hat), as well as a bear! 2. If you picked A you’d be right. According to their website, their gender is unclear. While their English website refers to them using “he” and “him”, we’ll go with unclear for now. 3. B is the answer here. Kyun-chan is vegetarian, but when they’re in disguise they like to eat genghis khan! 4. It’s D! Kyun-chan lived a quiet life in Daisetsuzan, but then decided one day that they wanted to see more of Hokkaido and began to travel around. 5. C is correct. “Kyun” is Japanese onomatopoeia for being touched or moved. Kyun-chan touches our Hokkaido hearts every day!
There’s one more thing I bet you didn’t know about Kyun-chan. During their travels throughout Hokkaido, they donned various disguises in order to fit in better with their surroundings. Thanks to that, each region of Hokkaido has its own Kyun-chan outfit specific to the area! Which one are you? Hakodate/Matsumae/Onuma Area: Squid Version Niseko/Otaru/Sapporo Area: Clock Tower Version Iburi/Hidaka Area: Demon Version Furano/Biei Area: Fox Version Okhotsk Area: Crab Version Shiretoko Area: Bear Version Tokachi Area: Cow Version Kushiro Area: Crane Version There’s also one final version in which Kyun-chan dons a traditional Ainu outfit. I hope that you find your heart touched by Kyun-chan and that they give you the strength you need to get through your busy school days and frigid Hokkaido winter.
Remote villages Wrapped in the gathering mist, Twilight descending, I haste along the rough road Toward my house, cedar-swathed. -Ryōkan Taigu 良寛大愚
Nivedh Sreejit