Polo Lifestyles April 2023: Science, Money and Michelle Yeoh

U.S. OPEN WOMEN'S POLO CHAMPIONSHIP · JAIPUR POLO WORLD POLO COOPERATION · GAUNTLET OF POLO THE GOLD CUP

Ambassador Claude-Alix Bertrand Publisher

Joshua Jakobitz Editor-in-Chief

William Smith Copy Editor & Philanthropy Contributor

Claire Barrett Head of Photography

Dana Romita Luxury Real Estate Contributor

Amritlal Singh Spirituality Contributor

Cezar Kusik Wine Contributor

Polo Photographers

Katerina Morgan

Justine Jacquemot

Irina Kazaridi

Helen Cruden

Dillon Driscoll

Nick Tininenko

Michael J. Snell Lifestyles & Luxury Automobile Contributor

Joey Velez Wellness Contributor

Justin "Goliath" Johnson Wellness Contributor

Raphael K. Dapaah Art Contributor Brand Representatives

Michael J. Snell - NYC

Stanley Pierre-Etienne - West Indies

Jessica Foret Wax - Santa Fe

Justin Johnson - Atlanta

Contributing Photographers

Xavier Merchet-Thau

Aubrey Chandler

Eric Carré

Eva Espresso

Tony Ramirez

Rob Miskowitch Paat Kelly

Polo Lifestyles is a publication of HT Polo Publishing Co. 995 Detroit Avenue, Suite A Concord, CA 94518

Cover photo of Hayette McCarthy by Txema Yeste

Content Copyright © Polo Lifestyles 2023 All Rights Reserved.

For information or to advertise Contact marketing@pololifestyles.com Read online at www.pololifestyles.com

On Instagram & Facebook @pololifestyles A proud partner of Issuu & The Impression

NATIONAL POLO CENTERWELLINGTON

The Gauntlet of Polo

- U.S. Open Polo Championship

USPA Junior Open Final

Florida Circuit 16-Goal Series

GRAND CHAMPIONS

POLO CLUB

USPA North American Cup

USPA National 20 Goal

Legends of Polo

Carlos Gracida Memorial

International Cup

MIAMI BEACH

Miami Beach World Championship

SOUTH AFRICA

S.A. Polo Open

SCOREBOARDS & COCKTAILS

DESERT PALM POLO

POLO LIFESTYLES EDITORS & CONTRIBUTORS

Joey Velez Wellness Columnist Velez Mental Performance @velezmentalhealth

Eva Espresso Photographer Eva Espresso Photography @Eva.espresso

Amritlal Singh Spirituality Contributor Monarch Visionary @monarch_visionary

Cezar Kusik Wine Contributor Polo Lifestyles @cezartastesearth

Dana Romita Real Estate Contributor Douglas Elliman @danaromita

William Smith Philanthropy Contributor May & Stanley Smith Charitable Trust @willismith_2000

Justin Johnson Wellness Contributor Goliath Coaches @goliathcoaches

Ambassador Claude-Alix Bertrand Publisher Polo Lifestyles @haiti_polo_captain

Josh Jakobitz Editor-in-Chief Polo Lifestyles @joshuajakobitz

Michael J. Snell Lifestyles & Automobiles Contributor @agnello_1

Eric Carré Photographer EC Photography @ti_carre

Claire Barrett Head of Photography Claire Barrett Photography @clairebarrettphoto

Raphael K. Dapaah Art Contributor Dapaah Gallery @dapaahgallery

Katerina Morgan Polo Photographer Horse Polo Art Gallery @horsepoloartgallery

Grappling with feeling younger than you are? page 74

Luxury autos take over frozen Lake St-Moritz, page 81

MICHELLE YEOH

SHE'S EVERYTHING, EVERYWHERE ALL AT ONCE

PAGE 112

Surprising things to do with $100,000, page 92

Why extreme escapism doesn't help, page 186

IT’S BEEN A LONG WINTER HERE. RAIN HAS BEEN FALLING IN ANOTHER ‘ATMOSPHERIC RIVER’ TODAY IN THE BAY AREA AS WE PUT THE FINISHING TOUCHES ON THIS MONTH’S ISSUE OF POLO LIFESTYLES. IT’S APROPOS THEN, THAT OUR WINE FEATURE IS ON THE RAVAGE THAT EXCESSIVE AND DEADLY RAINS HAVE HAD ON NAPA AND SONOMA COUNTIES’ PRODUCTION OF WINE. IN NAPA, THERE WAS SNOW ON THE GROUND IN MARCH. SNOW. ON. THE. GROUND.

Polo is a weather-dependent sport. While baseball and (American) football have turf fields, we play polo on grass, on snow, in sand and on dirt. We don’t just need sunny days to play, but we need agreeable weather to ensure the quality of the field for the safety of the players. We’ve all watched snow and beach polo tournaments played in conditions the ponies can barely function in. We stomp the divots at halftime because it’s fun and gets us out of our chairs, but also to return the field to a playable condition.

New Zealand, a country also being pummeled by storm after storm, has canceled some of their biggest tournaments due to inclement conditions. Neither the NZ BMW Polo Open nor Urban Polo will be played this season in Auckland. After dealing with the fallout of a global pandemic that strongly affected New Zealand’s tourism industry, this year – a rebuilding year – the weather simply didn’t allow polo to happen. Our hearts go out to the organizers in Auckland, whose agony over canceling tournaments we may never fully know.

But alas, it’s not all bad news. In fact, one of our favorite stories this month comes from the world of artificial intelligence (A.I.). Scientists using A.I. at the University of Toronto developed a treatment for cancer within 30 days of beginning their study. The same A.I. has also been able to accurately predict survival rates of cancer patients. A.I. is doing in 30 days’ time what scientists in laboratories haven’t been able to do in generations. Will A.I. be able to eradicate the C word though? We’ll be following that story for you.

Thankfully, we also have gorgeous photos from Wellington, Jaipur and Dubai to remind us that spring and summer are on the horizon for us and soon, I’ll store my down vests and rain boots until it’s time to pull them out again in November or December. Until then, I’ll remind myself that we need the rain.

Best,

Josh Jakobitz josh@pololifestyles.com

THE GOLD CUP THE GAUNTLET OF POLO

INNOVATION EXISTS PURELY TO SERVE YOUR COMFORT, SAFETY AND CONVENIENCE VIA MULTIPLE SENSES. A VIRTUAL VOICE ASSISTANT LISTENS TO SERVE YOU.

LIGHTING AND FRAGRANCE SUBTLY SOOTHE YOU.

Beyond first class is a class of one.

We follow the James Beard Foundation for featured, seasonal recipes like this cheesecake

brasswoodnapavalley

Brasswood Napa Valley featured in March's issue of Polo Lifestyles alongside Angelina Mondavi

Thinking about adding this extraordinary timepiece to the collection

globalpolo

The perfect neck shot captured by Global Polo TV crew during The Gauntlet of Polo

Sparkle for spring with bespoke creations from Graff, purveyors of the world's most fabulous jewels

Gigi Hadid walks in Versace's Los Angeles roof-top fashion show in March

navajets

Waiting for takeoff... pop a bottle of Dom, sit back and relax, knowing you chose to fly the best way: private

thebroadmoor

Last month's polo tournament brought polo back to Colorado Springs after a long absence

versace

The First Lady of Germany and the Queen Consort Camilla in Berlin on the royal visit

chrisjacksongetty

graff

foundwell

beardfoundation

everythingeverywheremovie

The cast and crew of Everything

facundopieres

The best celebration after a win or a loss comes from family on the sidelines

hotelletoinystbarth

lamborghini

leonorasmee

Checking out Christian Louboutin's bridal collection this spring

thepalmbeachlife

uspoloassociation

zuhairmuradofficial

Taylor Swift is stunning in a pink ZM custom creation on her tour

La Fe defeated Dundas to hoist the U.S. Open Women's Polo trophy this year

eva.espresso

Click and comment on our choices... Tag @pololifestyles . We will share noteworthy comments with you next month.

The annual Fort Lauderdale Boat Show is an event you

don't want to miss

Shooting Snow Polo St-Moritz is a yearly tradition for fashion photographer Eva Espresso

Relax in a water-front suite after an appointment at the spa

The Lamborghini Revuelto is the first hybrid from the luxury automaker

Everywhere All At Once were the big winners at the Oscars

THE GAUNTLET OF POLO THE GOLD CUP SCONE 8-6 PILOT

PHOTOS BY ALEX PACHECO & AGUS FONDA

WELLINGTON, FLA. – On March 26, 2023, the second leg of the Gauntlet of Polo culminated in the USPA Gold Cup Final. The distinguished competition found defending champions Pilot (Curtis Pilot, Matias Gonzalez, Matias Torres Zavaleta, Facundo Pieres) battling 2021 USPA Gold Cup victors Scone (David Paradice, Cody Ellis*, Poroto Cambiaso, Pelon Stirling, sub. Tomas Panelo). Meeting for the second time in the Gauntlet of Polo this year, the final offered an explosive rematch of the very first game of the C.V. Whitney Cup that ultimately took Scone out of contention in the first leg of the series.

A lowscoring final, Scone’s fourth chukker momentum ultimately created enough space to ward off threats of a Pilot comeback. As the final horn sounded, the team in red held to an 8-6 lead, marking their first Gauntlet title since 2021. Along with the trophy, Scone was awarded $50,000 in prize money. The win also marked the continued Cambiaso domination across the Gauntlet of Polo, as now both Adolfo and Poroto have stood atop the podium this year.

Scone and Pilot’s paths to the final varied greatly. After winning their first game against Tamera in a narrow 9-8 victory, Scone hit the gas and didn’t look back, delivering decisive wins in the remainder of bracket play and the quarterfinals. 9-goaler Stirling sustained a groin injury prior to the quarterfinals and was replaced by 8-goaler

THE GOLD CUP THE GAUNTLET OF POLO

Tomas Panelo in the quarterfinals, semifinals and final. Meshing well with the team, Panelo helped Scone defeat Dutta Corp/Show+ 14-10 to advance to the final.

Conversely, Pilot won their first game of bracket play against Dazos, but then fell to Aspen 12-11 in a surprise upset. The loss forced Pilot to earn their quarterfinal spot in playoff contention against Two Trees by Jefferies, which they accomplished in a 10-5 victory. From there, Pilot defeated C.V. Whitney Cup champions Valiente in the quarterfinals in a 13-12 nailbiter. Park Place attempted to end Pilot’s crusade, but Pilot rose again, defeating them 15-14 in the semifinals to earn a place in the final.

Speaking to Scone’s strategy entering the title match, Ellis commented, “The strategy obviously was high intensity, try to get Facundo when he doesn’t have the ball because when he’s got it, it’s very hard to take it away. And just trust in ourselves. We’ve got a pretty good system that we’ve been working on since the beginning, and I think it showed a little bit today that we can do it. So, for us, just confidence and give it everything.”

Panelo added, “They have a few really fast mares—Facundo has two or three [that are] really fast. Matias is well-mounted. They play well. […] Curtis works a lot. But I think we played more focusing on our game than on them. The idea was always for us to manage the ball a bit, to have a good defense, and try to find some spaces in the field. I think we [did] it quite well, the game worked well for us.”

Characterizing Scone’s style of play, Panelo continued, “The idea of playing is open and fast, and of course Poroto managing the ball, he’s probably the best one doing it. I think it worked really well. Cody played really well, David helped us a lot marking and [on] defense- defending, attacking, everything. So, I think we played well.”

With Panelo still playing in place of Stirling, Scone was awarded one goal on handicap at the onset of play. A slow first chukker, Scone’s Ellis was the sole player able to find the goal, while Pilot suffered a complete shutout, giving Scone an early 2-0 lead. Pieres and Cambiaso traded goals in the second chukker to maintain the gap. Zavaleta and Pieres were both able to capitalize from the field in the third. A single response from Panelo placed Pilot within one, with Scone narrowly leading 4-3 at halftime.

Regrouping at the break, Ellis shared what the Scone collective used the time to focus on. “Trying to breathe! Maintaining the intensity that we came out with, and

THE GOLD CUP

THE GAUNTLET OF POLO

when we had the ball to be a little bit more patient and not rush. The biggest thing was to try to maintain the intensity that we came out with.”

Re-energized and refocused, Scone came out strong in the fourth chukker, with goals from Cambiaso, Panelo and a Penalty 1 outpacing a single score

from Zavaleta to extend Scone’s lead 7-4. Pilot came back with vengeance in the fifth, shutting Scone out completely—only a Penalty 2 from Pieres diminishing Scone’s advantage 7-5. In the final chukker, a Penalty 2 from Cambiaso was matched by a field goal from Pieres, but Pilot’s late

offensive drive was not enough to overtake Scone’s lead. As time expired, Scone clung tightly to an 8-6 lead, capturing their second USPA Gold Cup title and first Gauntlet recognition in two years

Grateful and ecstatic to be back on the podium with his team, Scone team

THE GOLD CUP THE GAUNTLET OF POLO

owner Paradice remarked, “It’s great. I played with the father [Adolfo Cambiaso] and the son [Poroto Cambiaso] last year […] and the year before we won […] now I’m playing with the son [Poroto], a 22-year-old, a 27-year-old, and if you add all their ages together, it’s just a bit older than I am in total! It’s great to play with young blokes! I love their enthusiasm, their sporting ability, but they’re respectful and grateful, all of us are respectful and grateful to be out there, and be where we are at the La Dolfina and J5 organization. It’s a nice feeling.”

Also thankful for the friendship and support of Valiente team owner Bob Jornayvaz, Paradice shared, “It’s his organization and the combination of him and Adolfo Cambiaso [that] have put all of this together. It’s been

years and years in the making, it’s great to be a part of it. They do things properly. Whether it’s business, or whatever it is. Bobby’s been great for me. He gives me advice on the field, he’s a good thinker on the field. He helps me think about what I should and shouldn’t be doing. Him and Adolfo have been a big part of us being here.”

Also grateful for Jornayvaz’ help, Cambiaso shared his feelings about today’s win with Scone and the support of Valiente. “Very happy to have won today with the Scone organization. The truth is, I have to really thank Bob [Jornayvaz], Valiente really helped us. I’m very happy.”

The win was especially sweet for Ellis, who competed in the 2022 USPA Gold Cup Final with Park Place but

lost to Pilot 11-10 in overtime. “It means everything, to be honest.” When asked about what he thought was the key to his team’s success, Ellis commented, “Our teamwork. I think we’ve got a really good vibe on the team, especially when the going gets tough, we group together quite well and have a little chat and say, ‘Hey boys, we’ve got to fix something here.’ I think that paid off well. The changes that we made in the throw-ins and the little things we did, I think that made a big difference today.” Elaborating on some of those little changes, Ellis continued, “More just positions— who’s going where, where we want Poroto to go, where we want [Tomas] to go, who I need to try to go to give them some space, more of that.”

For his impressive work igniting both the offensive and defensive fronts for

THE GOLD CUP

Scone along with two field goals, Tomas Panelo was named Most Valuable Player. Reflecting on the recognition, Panelo commented, “Thank you very much. For me it’s a really great opportunity to play on a team like that. It’s a young team, it’s nice [that] Pelon gave me his string, he’s really well-mounted and Adolfo also gave me some horses. [It’s] a great opportunity, I enjoyed it a lot, and I’m really happy.”

Panelo also commented on how it felt to get the call that he would be substituting for Pelon Stirling. “I knew that the first game was going to be difficult because I was playing the 16 goal, which is a little slower. The first game was hard, the second game I felt a little better and today was a really fun game to play against one of the top three best teams. Honestly, it was just a really fun game to play.” Discussing some of his favorite horses he played, Panelo continued, “I have a few: J5 Arg Marimba, I really like, J5 Arg Cheyenne, she’s really good, Dolfina Cauta—they’re horses that are good for finals!”

Happy to play with Panelo, Ellis discussed how it felt for the two to win together. “Really fun, I played with [Tomas] in Spain last summer, so I know him quite well and I’ve played with him before, and we’ve had some bad luck. So, to win with him today is really cool. Very happy for him and [he’s] a great teammate.”

Equally pleased with Panelo’s performance and addition to the team, Paradice gushed, “[Tomas] is a wonderful person primarily, a great person and a great talent. He fit in with Pelon who’s a great person and a great talent—so [he] fit in like a glove. He just fit in well, and fortunately we had Pelon to coach us along as well. I feel for Pelon, it would’ve been nice to have him play, but unfortunately that wasn’t the case.”

Poroto Cambiaso’s first chukker horse and last chukker spare, Cabe Bailarina, was presented Best Playing Pony honors. She is a 10-year-old Argentine chestnut mare owned by La Dolfina (Dolfina Tanguera x Loyal Force). Cambiaso noted, “Cabe Bailarina was bred by our veterinarian Juan Pablo [Quiroga] and owned by my dad and La Dolfina. And I believe she’s been my best horse all season long. She’s very strong and very complete. I think she deserved it.”

In addition to the title, Scone received $50,000 in prize money. This year’s Gauntlet of Polo in partnership with USPA Global Licensing also embraced the spirit of giving with non-profit charities chosen by the finalists receiving a donation. Scone chose to support the Retired Racehorse Project with a $2,500 donation while Pilot contributed $2,500 to Polo for Life.

THE GOLD CUP

THE GAUNTLET OF POLO

U.S. OPEN WOMEN'S POLO CHAMPIONSHIP

LA FE 12-6 DUNDAS

U.S. OPEN WOMEN'S POLO CHAMPIONSHIP

WELLINGTON, FLA. – A week of high-caliber women’s play hosted by Port Mayaca Polo Club (Okeechobee, Florida), culminated in the illustrious U.S. Open Women’s Polo Championship presented by Eastern Hay. The final,

which took place Sunday, March 19, at the National Polo Center - Wellington (Wellington, Florida), marked a historic moment in the elite competition. For the first time, the final was held as the featured Sunday match on the legendary

U.S. Polo Assn. Field One.

Despite looming rain in the forecast, the most prestigious women’s cup in American polo pitted competition newcomer La Fe (Winifred Branscum, Pamela Flanagan, Hope Arellano*,

U.S. OPEN WOMEN'S POLO CHAMPIONSHIP

U.S. OPEN WOMEN'S POLO CHAMPIONSHIP

Hazel Jackson) against returning contender Dundas (Ana de la Fuente, Erica Gandomcar-Sachs, Mia Cambiaso, Nina Clarkin) with $40,000 in prize money on the line. Relying on nonstop offensive firepower, especially from 8-goal American Arellano, La Fe launched an impressive effort that ended in a dominant 12-6 first-time victory for the team in orange. Meanwhile, on Saturday, March 18, the U.S. Open Women’s Polo Championship subsidiary final took place at Port Mayaca Polo Club. San Saba defeated El Cid Fitness 8-3 to claim the bronze place position.

In their journey to the title match, Dundas faced an early setback when team owner Sarah Siegel-Magness suffered an injury in the first game that required a substitute in all subsequent matches. Valentina Tarzona filled in during the initial game and Ana de La Fuente took the reins for the remainder of the competition. One match under her belt, de la Fuente helped Dundas defeat a formidable BTA (Sophie Grant*, Maddie Grant, KC Krueger, Sarah Wiseman) 8-5 to qualify for the final. La Fe handily overcame San Saba 8-3 in the semifinals to claim their spot in the championship. Losing their first game in bracket play to BTA 5-6, the well-equipped team was determined to turn things around, proceeding to win their next game by eight goals and then triumph in a commanding semifinal win.

Speaking to their team’s preparation for the tournament, Flanagan shared, “Our team has been working together since the beginning of the season. We did a 6-goal together, we have done team workouts together with Chukker Wellness before and after every game, and in-between games. We’ve been having team meetings multiple times a week with Julio Arellano. We set up penalties for each other on off-days, we work together harder, I think than any other team. So, I think that’s what made the difference for us.”

Jackson added, “I’ve been here about two months roughly— basically just for today. I’ve tried hundreds of horses and looking for them left, right and center. I’ve been in the gym every single day; we’ve had India from Chukker Wellness. Yesterday, I played 10 chukkers and had an hour personal training with her to do reaction timing. In the evening we had a team meeting. You can imagine the amount of work and effort we’re putting into it. I’m so pleased that it paid off.”

Discussing their team’s strategy for the final, Jackson continued, “The main thing for us was ‘initiate.’ Initiate the defense first, and then attack. Our plan was supposed to be much more disciplined with the man, and then we go on attack.” “They’re all extremely well mounted,” Arellano noted, recognizing specific strengths La Fe looked out for in Dundas. “So playing against them, we knew we were going to have to get them early to cut the horse factor as much as we could.” Flanagan added, “In my opinion, they’re one of the most talented teams in the tournament. Mia and Nina are a force to be reckoned with.”

DESERT PALM POLO CLUB

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of diplomatic relations between the United Arab Emirates and Switzerland, H.E. Massimo Baggi, Swiss Ambassador to the UAE and Bahrain, in collaboration with Reto Gaudenzi, CEO World Polo GmbH, organized a polo friendship game in Dubai. This took place on Sunday 19 March 2023 at Ali Albwardy’s Desert Palm Polo Club. The match was won by Team Dubai, who defeated Team St. Moritz/Switzerland by 5 goals to 3.

The original idea for the polo friendship game in Dubai came from Ambassador Massimo Baggi, himself a passionate polo player. He decided to present it to his longtime friend Reto Gaudenzi. Gaudenzi, founder of the Snow Polo World Cup St. Moritz & CEO of World Polo GmbH, was immediately enthusiastic and spontaneously agreed to support Baggi with his organization in the planning and implementation of the game.

The extraordinary project quickly aroused the interest of Marijana Jakic, Brand Manager St. Moritz & Member of the Management Board ESTM. The destination used the highcalibre platform as the main sponsor to perfectly showcase

St. Moritz’s unique diversity in this important market. In addition, the two event partners SWISS and Switzerland Tourism were also on hand to invite their partners, tour operators and customers to the event.

The anniversary weekend kicked off with a cocktail reception for the players on Saturday evening at the Swiss Residence in Abu Dhabi. It was hosted by Ambassador H.E. Massimo Baggi, St. Moritz Top of the World, and World Polo GmbH. Also present were representatives of Switzerland Tourism, SWISS and the Desert Palm Polo Club.

On Sunday afternoon, the event started at the Desert Palm Polo Club with the presentation of the two teams St. Moritz/ Switzerland and Dubai. The private polo club is one of the most beautiful and prestigious in the UAE and belongs to the renowned businessman Ali Albwardy. Following the award ceremony, the 150 invited guests enjoyed themselves with exclusive dishes and cocktails, bringing the afternoon to a stylish close.

DESERT PALM POLO

DESERT PALM POLO

DESERT PALM POLO DUBAI

JAIPUR GOLD CUP

IRELAND PREVAILS IN JAIPUR A

TOTAL OF 4 WOMEN’S TEAMS PARTICIPATED IN THE TOURNAMENT COMPETING FOR THE “JAIPUR GOLD CUP”.

The International Women teams participated from the U.K. (Hurlingham Official), Ireland (Rubio Polo), the Czech Republic (Noe Polo Club) and of course our ladies team from Jaipur (JRPC).

The teams had an eclectic mix of budding and professional players with the Irish team coming in with 2 pros - Siobhan Herbst (+1) and Natasha Tisminsky (+1), the U.K. team with one - Charlotte Sweeney (+1). The Czech team was an interesting mix of very young players with a savvy Argentine coach Santiago Oubina guiding them to win every match until the finals when they lost to Ireland in the last 30 seconds.

The Indian team is coming up with loads of practice and players like Sanjula Mann and team captain Monique Van Haarst stood their ground against the experienced international players. The U.K. team was an official Hurlingham team and this mix of younger and older, professional and amateur among the various teams truly helped in building the sisterhood on the field and off among all the polo players.

Katy Hayward, Patron of U.K. team said “It is an honor to be playing for our country in a ladies tournament at Jaipur Riding and Polo Club the same week as international women’s day. The oppor-

IMAGES COURTESY RABII BENADADA

JAIPUR GOLD CUP

WOMEN'S INTERNATIONAL

tunities in Polo for women have increased in the last few decades and being able to play somewhere with such heritage in the sport is a beautiful way to celebrate.”

A special mention here is that the HH Maharaja of Jodhpur Gaj Singh, a polo

patron himself was the Chief Guest at the semi-finals. The final match was played on March 12, between Ireland and the Czech Republic. Welcome to the sound of thundering hooves running on lush green fields, the players with their suave personalities striking their mallets,

eyes fixed on the goal post battling to strike the winning goal and the crowds cheering in the background. It was a very close match with both the teams at an equal score of 4 goals each in the fourth chukker. In the last 30 seconds, Ireland scored a goal and emerged victorious.

“We’re very happy and proud that our players won this International tournament to celebrate International Women’s Day in India and especially encouraged more gender parity in our beloved Sport,” said Rabii Benadada, the manager of Irish team.

JAIPUR GOLD CUP

WOMEN'S INTERNATIONAL

JAIPUR GOLD CUP

WOMEN'S INTERNATIONAL

THE PUZZLING GAP BETWEEN

HOW OLD YOU ARE AND HOW OLD YOU THINK YOU ARE

THIS PAST THANKSGIVING, I ASKED MY MOTHER HOW OLD SHE WAS IN HER HEAD.

She didn’t pause, didn’t look up, didn’t even ask me to repeat the question, which would have been natural, given that it was both syntactically awkward and a little odd. We were in my brother’s dining room, setting the table. My mother folded another napkin. “Forty-five,” she said.

She is 76.

Why do so many people have an immediate, intuitive grasp of this highly abstract concept—“subjective age,” it’s called—when randomly presented with it? It’s bizarre, if you think about it. Certainly most of us don’t believe ourselves to be shorter or taller than we actually are. We don’t think of ourselves as having smaller ears or longer noses or curlier hair. Most of us also know where our bodies are in space, what physiologists call “proprioception.”

Yet we seem to have an awfully rough go of locating ourselves in time. A friend, nearing 60, recently told me that whenever he looks in the mirror, he’s not so much unhappy with his appearance as startled by it—“as if there’s been some sort of error” were his exact words. (High-school reunions can have this same confusing effect. You look around at your lined and thickened classmates, wondering how they could have so violently capitulated to age; then you see photographs of yourself from that same event and realize: Oh.) The gulf between how old we are and how old we believe ourselves to be can often be measured in light-years—or at least a goodly number of old-fashioned Earth ones.

As one might suspect, there are studies that examine this phenomenon. (There’s a study for everything.) As one might also suspect, most of them are pretty unimaginative. Many have their origins in the field of gerontology, designed primarily with an eye toward health outcomes, which

means they ask participants how old they feel, which those participants generally take to mean how old do you feel physically, which then leads to the rather unsurprising conclusion that if you feel older, you probably are, in the sense that you’re aging faster.

But “How old do you feel?” is an altogether different question from “How old are you in your head?” The most inspired paper I read about subjective age, from 2006, asked this of its 1,470 participants—in a Danish population (Denmark being the kind of place where studies like these would happen)— and what the two authors discovered is that adults over 40 perceive themselves to be, on average, about 20 percent younger than their actual age. “We ran this thing, and the data were gorgeous,” says David C. Rubin (75 in real life, 60 in his head), one of the paper’s authors and a psychology and neuroscience professor at Duke University. “It was just all these beautiful, smooth curves.”

Why we’re possessed of this urge to subtract is another matter. Rubin and his co-author, Dorthe Berntsen, didn’t make it the focus of this particular paper, and the researchers who do often propose a crude, predictable answer—namely, that lots of people consider aging a catastrophe, which, while true, seems to tell only a fraction of the story. You could just as well make a different case: that viewing yourself as younger is a form of optimism, rather than denialism. It says that you envision many generative years ahead of you, that you will not be written off, that your future is not one long, dreary corridor of locked doors.

I think of my own numbers, for instance—which, though a slight departure from the Rubin-Berntsen rule, are still within a reasonable range (or so Rubin assures me). I’m 53 in real life but suspended at 36 in my head, and if I

There are good reasons you always feel 20 percent younger than your actual age.

stop my brain from doing its usual Tilt-A-Whirl for long enough, I land on the same explanation: At 36, I knew the broad contours of my life, but hadn’t yet filled them in. I was professionally established, but still brimmed with potential. I was paired off with my husband, but not yet lost in the marshes of a long marriage (and, okay, not yet a tiresome fishwife). I was soon to be pregnant, but not yet a mother fretting about eating habits, screen habits, study habits, the brutal folkways of adolescents, the porn merchants of the Internet.

I was not yet on the gray turnpike of middle age, in other words.

“I’m 35,” wrote my friend Richard Primus, 53 in real life and a constitutional-law professor at the University of Michigan Law School. “I think it’s because that’s the age I was when my major life questions/statuses reached the resolutions/conditions in which they’ve since remained.” So: kind of like my answer, but more optimistically rendered. He continued: “Medieval Christian theologians asked the intriguing question ‘How old are people in heaven?’ The dominant answer: 33. Partly because age of Jesus at crucifixion. But I think partly because it feels like a kind of peak for the combined vigor-maturity index.”

The combined vigor-maturity index: Yes!

Richard was replying to me on Twitter, where I’d tossed out my query to the crowd: “How old are you in your head?” (Turns out I’m not the

only one with this impulse; Sari Botton, the founder of Oldster Magazine, regularly publishes questionnaires she has issued to novelists, artists, and activists of a certain age, and this is the second question.) Ian Leslie, the author of Conflicted and two other social-science books (32 in his head, 51 in “boring old reality”), took a similar view to mine and Richard’s, but added an astute and humbling observation: Internally viewing yourself as substantially younger than you are can make for some serious social weirdness.

“30 year olds should be aware that for better or for worse, the 50 year old they’re talking to thinks they’re roughly the same age!” he wrote. “Was at a party over the summer where average was about 28 and I had to make a conscious effort to remember I wasn’t the same—they can tell of course, so it’s asymmetrical.”

Yes. They can tell. I’ve had this unsettling experience, seeing little difference between the 30-something before me and my 50-something self, when suddenly the 30-something will make a comment that betrays just how aware she is of the age gap between us, that this gap seems enormous, that in her eyes I may as well be Dame Judi Dench.

Although many hewed close to the Rubin-Berntsen rule, the replies I got on Twitter were not always about potential. Many carried with them a whiff of unexpected poignancy. Trauma sometimes played a role: One person was stuck at 32, unable to see themselves as any older than

a sibling who’d died; another was stuck for a long time at age 12, the year her father joined a cult. (Rubin has written about this phenomenon too—the centrality of certain events to our memories, especially calamitous ones. Sometimes we freeze at the age of our traumas.)

My friend Alan, who is in his 50s, told me he thinks of himself as 38 because he still thinks of his 98-year-old father as 80. The writer Molly Jong-Fast replied that she’s 19 because that’s the age she got sober. One 36-year-old woman told me she thought the pandemic was a time thief— she simply hadn’t accumulated enough new experiences to justify the addition of more chronological years—which made her younger in her head sometimes, as if she were willing back the clock.

When I mentioned to a colleague that I was writing this piece, he told me he was 12 in his head, not because he thinks of himself as a child, but because his inner self has remained unchanged as he’s aged; it’s “the same consciousness as always since I became conscious.” His words instantly brought to mind a line from the opening pages of Milan Kundera’s Immortality: “There is a certain part of all of us that lives outside of time.”

Of course, not everyone I spoke with viewed themselves as younger. There were a few old souls, something I would have once said about myself. I felt 40 at 10, when the gossip and cliquishness of other little girls seemed not just cruel but dull; I felt 40 at 22, when I barely went to bars; I felt 40

at 25, when I started accumulating non-college friends and realized I was partial to older people’s company. And when I turned 40, I was genuinely relieved, as if I’d finally achieved some kind of cosmic internal-external temporal alignment.

But over time, I rolled backwards. Other people do this too, just starting at a younger age—25—and Rubin has a theory about why this might be. Adolescence and emerging adulthood are times dense with firsts (first kiss, first time having sex, first love, first foray into the world without your parents’ watchful gaze); they are also times when our brains, for a variety of neurodevelopmental reasons, are inclined to feel things more intensely, especially the devil’s buzz of a good, foolhardy risk.

The uniqueness and density of these periods have manifested themselves in other areas of Rubin’s research. Years ago, he and other researchers showed that adults have an outsize number of memories from the ages of about 15 to 25. They called this phenomenon “the reminiscence bump.” (This is generally used to explain why we’re so responsive to the music of our adolescence—which in my case means my iPhone is loaded with a lot more Duran Duran songs than any dignified person should admit.)

Rubin and Berntsen made a second intriguing discovery in their work on subjective age: People younger than 25 mainly said they felt older than they are, not younger—which, again, makes sense if you’ve had even a

passing acquaintance with a 10-year-old, a teenager, a 21-year-old. They’re eager for more independence and to be taken more seriously; in their head, they’re ready for both, though their prefrontal cortex is basically a bunch of unripe bananas.

In Rubin and Berntsen’s 2006 study, socioeconomic status, gender, and education did not significantly affect their data. One wonders if this has something to do with the fact that they conducted their research in Denmark, a country with substantially less income inequality and racial heterogeneity than our own.

The picture changes when there’s more variety: A 2021 meta-analysis of 294 papers examining subjective-age data from across the globe found that the discrepancy between chronological age and internal age

was greatest in the United States, Western Europe, and Australia/Oceania. Asia had a smaller gap. Africa had the smallest, which could be read as an economic sign (poverty might play a role) but also a cultural one: Elders in collectivist societies are accorded more respect and have more extended-family support.

“Could it be that feeling younger is actually dysfunctional and no longer helping you focus on what’s going on?

That’s the more complicated question,” says Hans-Werner Wahl (69 in real life, 55 in his head), a co-author of the meta-analysis. “A lower subjective age may be predictive of better health. But there are other populations around the globe for whom it is not necessary to feel younger. And they’re not less healthy.”

This seems to be the conclusion of Becca Levy, a pro-

fessor of epidemiology and psychology at the Yale School of Public Health. As a young graduate student, she went to Japan and couldn’t help noticing not just that people lived longer, but that their attitude toward aging was more positive—and her decades of research since have shown a very persuasive connection between the two. In the introduction to her book, Breaking the Age Code, she describes newsstands in Tokyo lined with manga books filled with story lines about older people falling in love. She reports wandering Tokyo on Keiro No Hi, or “Respect for the Aged Day,” and seeing people in their 70s and 80s lifting weights in the park. She talks about music classes filled with 75-year-olds learning how to play electric slide guitar.

At first blush, Levy’s scholarship may seem to quarrel with the literature of subjective

age. But maybe it’s a complement. What underpins them both is an enduring sense of agency: If you mentally view yourself as younger—if you believe you have a few pivots left—you still see yourself as useful; if you believe that aging itself is valuable, an added good, then you also see yourself as useful. In a better world, older people would feel more treasured, certainly. But even now, a good many of us seem capable of combining the two ideas, merging acceptance of our age with a sense of hope. When reading over the many Oldster questionnaires, I was struck by how many people said that their present age was their favorite one. A reassuring number of respondents didn’t want to trade their hard-earned wisdom—or humility, or self-acceptance, whatever they had accrued along the way—for some earlier moment.

I.C.E. ST-MORITZ GLAMOUR, BEAUTY AND AUTOMOTIVE PASSION

ONCE AGAIN THIS YEAR, NESTLED IN THE MOUNTAINS OF ENGADIN, THE FROZEN LAKE OF ST-MORITZ PLAYED STAGE FOR ITS COVETED ‘TOP OF THE WORLD’ EVENT. I.C.E.

The International Concours d’Elegance is a two-day spectacle of thrills as participants and enthusiasts alike experience the visual, and for some, personal driving exhilarations as classic autos race the snow-covered lake track that is normally used for snow polo.

While this small Engadin town has long been a favorite destination for the international jet-setter, the winter festival’s excitement draws in quite the glamorous

crowd – with 2023 presenting 48 of the best classic and racing cars that have made automotive history, after all this is all about the cars.

Over the course of two days, a jury of experts and prominent personalities were called upon to judge the cars’ provenance, originality and condition. The judges also spoke with the individual collecting owners, learning about the details and peculiarities of each participating gem. The jury for the edition had been composed of prominent personalities and experts in the field that included: Vanessa Marçais, an authority on automotive collecting and curating judge of other concours within several international commissions; Marco Makaus, creator and patron of The I.C.E. St-Moritz;

BY MICHAEL SNELL PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY I.C.E. ST-MORITZ

Frédéric Brun, published author and expert specializing in watches, automobiles and luxury goods; Klaus Busse, a lifelong motor enthusiast, collector and professional designer who’s currently Head of Design at Maserati; Michele Lupi, a noted music and design expert launching Rolling Stone Italia; J.P. Rathgen, CEO of Classic Driver and a leading figure in the classic car scene; and Augustin SabatiéGarat, noted European car enthusiast and historic automobile authority.

The most dynamic and spectacular phase of the event competition took place within the early morning hours on the second day of judging. With the cars grouped according to categories, each entered the frozen lake track and triggered fascinating straights. In addi-

I.C.E. ST-MORITZ

tion to the physical inspection, the jury was able to assess the chemistry between the drivers and their cars in action and judge the style and skilled driving dynamics by each observed driver.

The I.C.E. Village was a meeting point for various brands from the automotive, glamour and fashion worlds. Serving as the hospitality hub during the program, guests enjoyed static and dynamic interaction from some of the top purveyors of fine goods.

The atmosphere was set with Richard Mille named as title sponsor for this years’ proceedings. Founded in 2001, Richard Mille soon became established as one of the pre-eminent players in the luxury watchmaking industry by developing a unique, immediately recognizable architectural aesthetic, and one that has been paired alongside the automotive world since its inception. Peter Harrison, CEO of Richard Mille EMEA noted, “We are proud to

partner with The I.C.E. St-Moritz to become their title sponsor. This event is certain to be nothing short of remarkable as we witness some of the best classic cars in the world in action, ice driving on the frozen lake.” In addition to the prestige group of sponsors were brands like Maserati, Pagani, Persol, Moet & Chandon, RM Sotheby’s, Pirelli, Goodwool, Mercedes, Donna Fugata Fine Wines, 24 Hours Le Mans and The Classic Car Trust.

BY MICHAEL SNELL PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY I.C.E. ST-MORITZ

With the culmination of the excitement surrounding who would take home the prestigious weekend honors, winners placed into their perspective categories with the 2023 awarding being:

Maserati 420M/58

“Eldorado” of 1958 for the ‘Open Wheels’ category, the

Ferrari 500 Mondial Series II of 1955 for ‘Barchettas on the Lake,’ the Ferrari 250 Testarossa “Lucybelle” of 1958 for ‘Le Mans 100,’ Lancia Strato’s HF Zero of 1970 for ‘Concept Cars & One Offs,’ and the Bentley S1 Continental Drophead Coupé of 1958 for ‘Queens on Wheels.’ The ultimate

‘Best in Show’ award went to the beautiful Lancia Strato’s HF Zero, a futuristic body designed by Marcello Gandini.

“We are very satisfied with this 2023 edition that confirms the choice of the new format designed over two days. Forty-eight hours of

emotions where the stage of the St-Moritz Lake welcomed enthusiasts who came from all over the world. We would very much like to thank the Sponsors, Partners, Exhibitors and participating collectors who believed in this event and renewed their trust in us,” said Makaus.

I.C.E. ST-MORITZ

MICHAEL SNELL

I.C.E. ST-MORITZ

A CURE FOR CANCER?

A.I. DEVELOPED A CANCER TREATMENT IN 30 DAYS

IF YOU STILL THINK ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE IS LIMITED TO THE FRUSTRATING CUSTOMER SERVICE EXPERIENCE THAT HAS BECOME A DISAPPOINTING STANDARD FOR MAJOR RETAIL CALL LINES, IT’S TIME FOR A REALITY CHECK.

That same frustrating A.I. asking you to repeat your customer ID has also developed a treatment for cancer in just 30 days and can predict a patient’s survival rate.

A.I. is rapidly changing the way drugs and medicine are discovered and developed, as the traditional method of trial and error is slow, expensive and limits the scope of exploration.

In a new study published in the journal Chemical Science, researchers at

the University of Toronto along with Insilico Medicine developed a potential treatment for hepatocellular carcinoma (HCC) with an A.I. drug discovery platform called Pharma.A.I..

HCC is the most common type of liver cancer and occurs when a tumor grows on the liver. Researchers applied AlphaFold, an A.I.-powered protein structure database, to Pharma.AI to uncover a novel target — a previously unknown treatment pathway — for cancer and developed a “novel hit molecule” that could bind to that target without aid.

The creation of the potential drug was accomplished in just 30 days from the selection of the target and after synthesizing just seven compounds. After a second round of generating compounds, they discovered a more potent hit molecule — but any potential drug would need to go through clinical trials

before widespread use. “While the world was fascinated with advances in generative A.I. in art and language, our generative A.I. algorithms managed to design potent inhibitors of a target with an AlphaFold-derived structure,” Alex Zhavoronkov, founder and CEO of Insilico medicine, said in a statement.

“This paper is further evidence of the capacity for A.I. to transform the drug discovery process with enhanced speed, efficiency, and accuracy,” Michael Levitt, a Nobel Prize winner in chemistry, said. “Bringing together the predictive power of AlphaFold and the target and drug-design power of Insilico Medicine’s Pharma.AI platform, it’s possible to imagine that we’re on the cusp of a new era of A.I.-powered drug discovery.”

“Our generative A.I. algorithms managed to design potent inhibitors of a target with an AlphaFold-derived structure,” Alex Zhavoronkov, founder and

CEO of Insilico medicine, said.

In 2022, AlphaFold made a huge breakthrough in both A.I. and structural biology by predicting protein structure for the whole human genome. “AlphaFold broke new scientific ground in predicting the structure of all proteins in the human body,” co-author Feng Ren, chief scientific officer and co-CEO of Insilico Medicine, said. “At Insilico Medicine, we saw that as an incredible opportunity to take these structures and apply them to our end-to-end A.I. platform in order to generate novel therapeutics to tackle diseases with high unmet need. This paper is an important first step in that direction.”

Researchers applied AlphaFold, an A.I.powered protein structure database, to Pharma.AI to uncover a novel target. Researchers also explained how different A.I. information can revolutionize health care.

“What this paper demonstrates is that for health care, A.I. developments are more than the sum of their parts,” Alan Aspuru-Guzik, a professor of chemistry and computer science at U of T’s Faculty of Arts & Science, said. “If one uses a generative model targeting an A.I.-derived protein, one can substantially expand the range of diseases that we can target. If one adds self-driving labs to the mix, we will be in uncharted territory. Stay tuned!”

A separate study published in the journal JAMA Network Open showed an A.I. system invented by scientists at the

University of British Columbia and BC Cancer was able to predict cancer patient survival rates using doctors’ notes. Researchers at the University of Toronto along with Insilico Medicine developed a potential treatment for hepatocellular carcinoma (HCC).Insilico Medicine

The model uses natural language processing (NLP), which is a part of A.I. that can understand complex human language. The NLP can analyze doctors’ notes after an initial consultation visit and identify individual characteristics specifically for each patient.

It was able to predict six-month, 36-month and 60-month survival with an accuracy rate of over 80 percent. This model can also determine rates for all cancers, while previous models were only able to apply to certain cancer types.

The creation of the potential drug was accomplished in just 30 days from the selection of the target and after synthesizing just seven compounds. Insilico Medicine

“The A.I. essentially reads the consultation document similar to how a human would read it,” lead author Dr. JohnJose Nunez, a psychiatrist and clinical research fellow with the UBC Mood Disorders Centre and BC Cancer, said in a statement. “These documents have many details like the age of the patient, the type of cancer, underlying health conditions, past substance use, and family histories. The A.I. brings all of this together to paint a more complete

picture of patient outcomes.”

Cancer survival rates are traditionally calculated retrospectively and only categorized by a few generic factors such as tissue type and cancer site. This model was tested using data from 47,625 patients across six BC cancer sites located in British Columbia.

A.I. is rapidly changing the way drugs and medicine are discovered and developed. “Because the model is trained on B.C. data, that makes it a potentially powerful tool for predicting cancer survival here in the province,” Nunez said. “The great thing about neural NLP models is that they are highly scalable, portable and don’t require structured data sets,” he added. “We can quickly train these models using local data to improve performance in a new region. I would suspect that these models provide a good foundation anywhere in the world where patients are able to see an oncologist.”

A.I. could be a cutting-edge technology for future cancer care that could be applied in cancer clinics around the world. “Predicting cancer survival is an important factor that can be used to improve cancer care,” Nunez said. “It might suggest health providers make an earlier referral to support services or offer a more aggressive treatment option upfront. Our hope is that a tool like this could be used to personalize and optimize the care a patient receives right away, giving them the best outcome possible.”

MONEY TALKS

$100,000

IN THE BANK?

FIVE THINGS YOU MUST DO

WHILE THE CHASM BETWEEN THE HAVES AND THE HAVE-NOTS CONTINUES TO DEEPEN AROUND THE WORLD, THOSE WITH ACCESS TO CASH AND CAPITAL ARE GETTING RICHER.

Whether you’re new to having a burgeoning checking account balance or have been maintaining that luxury for your whole life, there are lots of ways to make your money work for you.

While all investors should set their own goals and financial advisers should be taking them into account, there are certain, sometimes-overlooked aspects of investing that – with a little effort today – will pay big dividends in the future. And by a little effort, we’re talking a cool $100,000. Here are some financial strategies to consider in 2023.

1. GET A SECOND (PROFESSIONAL) OPINION

There comes a time in life when it makes sense to get a second opinion. Sure, you’ve been successful at growing and managing your savings. But the more you have, the more attention your savings require and the greater the ramifications of screwing up.

A Vanguard study found that, on average, a hypothetical $500,000 investment over 25 years could grow to $1.7 million if you manage it yourself, but more than $3.4 million if you work with a professional.

Obviously, there are no guarantees a professional will do better than you. But getting a second opinion from a pro certainly can’t hurt. Even if you don’t need help picking investments, they can help you create a plan, maximize your Social Security, protect your assets and offer you peace of mind by ensuring you’re on the right track. They can also be there in case one day you’re not.

We recommend fiduciary financial advisers because they are all legally bound to work in your best interests.

2. SAFEGUARD YOUR ASSETS WITH GOLD

If a large part of your savings is in the stock market — as it should be — you’re well aware that what goes up can also go down; sometimes by a lot. You can’t control the stock market or the world economy. But you can hedge against uncertainty by having other forms of wealth.

The oldest and most ubiquitous hedge is gold. It’s been used for thousands of years to protect against everything from inflation to currency devaluation to political risk. Don’t go overboard; most pros advise putting only about 10 percent of your portfolio into the King Midas metal.

3. PLAN NOW FOR MEDICAL COSTS THAT MEDICARE WON’T COVER

Here’s hoping that your retirement years are active, healthy and vibrant and that you’re able to function as you always

have, right up to the time you shuffle off this mortal coil. But don’t bet on it. According to the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, seven in 10 people who turn 65 today will probably need some kind of long-term care.

But won’t Medicare take care of all that? Nope. Medicare doesn’t cover long-term custodial care — and paying for it out of pocket could take a huge chunk of your retirement savings. That, plus inflation, could mean near or total depletion of tens of thousands of dollars a month.

It’s impossible to say whether your current health will stay good. That’s why investigating long-term care insurance is so important: It protects you and your family.

4. DON’T LET HOME REPAIRS DRAIN YOU

Home repairs are costly and when you own and manage multiple properties, the costs soar even more quickly. Whether it’s a leaky roof or a broken appliance, your home can quickly cost you hundreds or even thousands of dollars to fix.

But you don’t have to worry. Luckily, with certain home warranties, you can safeguard yourself against giant repair bills. From home appliances to electrical, plumbing, heating and cooling systems, it can all be protected.

Plus, many in-house service teams are available 24/7 to help and ensure a hassle-free repair process if anything goes wrong. You can even choose your own

technician, or they can send you one from their nationwide network if you don’t have someone in mind.

5. PROTECT YOURSELF AND YOUR LOVED ONES

There’s nothing you wouldn’t do for your family, right? No

matter what. Not everybody needs life insurance. If your kids are grown, and you have a nice, healthy bank account, there’s really no need. But if your family would have a hard time getting along without you, life insurance is definitely something you should look into. Just don’t

pay too much for it by buying the wrong kind or buying from a commissioned salesperson. The right kind of life insurance for most people is term.

LUXURY REPORT:

QUEST FOR THE PERFECT SUMMER ADULT TREATS

WARMER TEMPERATURES ARE JUST AROUND THE CORNER, AND WITH THOSE HOT DAYS, WE LIKE TO KEEP THE FREEZERS STOCKED WITH ICE-COLD TREATS.

Nothing says “summer” like the perennial ice cream sandwich, and we have yet to find a reader so elevated and sophisticated that they won’t indulge (even if they cut it with a fork and knife like the editor of this magazine).

Whether it’s chocolaty and creamy or kind of cardboard-y, there’s something fantastic about an old-school-style ice cream sandwich—the kind made from vanilla ice cream and two chocolate wafers that stick to your fingers. Ice cream sandwiches taste like summers off, family vacations, and chasing down the ice cream truck as a kid—or an adult.

These days, your local upscale supermarket, corner bodega, and even filling station all have freezers filled with ice cream sandwiches in a variety of shapes, sizes, and flavors. Despite those delicious variations, we still love the traditional ice cream sandwich—and not all are created (or taste) equal. So which one do we love the best? We decided to find out.

To find our favorites, we tasted 12 nationally available old-school-style ice cream sandwiches (including a few

dairy-free options). We specifically looked at ones that could be found easily in stores, because when you want an ice cream sandwich, you probably want it right away.

Ultimately, we discovered that even if someone handed us the worst ice cream sandwich, we’d still eat it. But here’s the ice cream we’d scream for the loudest (grouped by dairy and non-dairy options).

OUR FAVORITE DAIRY-BASED ICE CREAM SANDWICHES

BEST ALL-AROUND SANDWICH  365 ORGANIC ICE CREAM SANDWICHES ($3.50 FOR 6)

These are the real deal, with ingredients to match. The Whole Foods ice cream sandwich is one of the few candidates we tested that uses ice cream made with egg yolks, resulting in a deliciously sweet, custard-like texture. It was also the only sandwich we tested that we thought had equally delicious ice cream and wafers. The texture is soft and has a nice balance, with a fudgy cookie and a creamy ice cream that oozes vanilla flavor. One tester described it as a “classic ice cream sandwich,” although

we would say it’s even better, since it doesn’t taste like cardboard.

SPLURGE ON THE ADULTS TRADER JOE'S SUBLIME ICE CREAM SANDWICHES ($5 FOR 4)

Well, we’ve been missing out on life itself. Everyone talks about how amazing these ice cream sandwiches are, and we're here to confirm it.

These are superb.

The chocolate chip cookie was soft and sweet. We found that the chocolate chips added great texture (and mini chips always taste amazing). The vanilla ice cream was basic, but it was perfect with all of the components. Wed definitely get these again as a treat! We're always looking for guilty pleasure treats… and this makes the cut!

ICE CREAM–HEAVY SANDWICHES: FATBOY ICE CREAM SANDWICHES ($7.50 FOR 6)

If you like a high ice cream–to–cookie ratio, this is the sandwich for you. The FatBoy lives up to its name, housing the most ice cream of any of the sandwiches we tested. (And if you want less ice cream, there’s always the FatBoy Junior.)

BY RACHEL CERICOLA/SPECIAL TO POLO LIFESTYLES

This sandwich’s cookie is super-thin, and the taste is negligible due to the overwhelming volume of ice cream.

Alden’s also makes Old School Vanilla Ice Cream Sandwiches, but some of our testers couldn’t find them locally. The ones who did try them noticed the ice cream was different than that of the round sammies: It didn’t have vanilla bean flecks, and the addition of egg yolks gave it more of a classic custard flavor. The sandwiches were also a bit sweeter.

OUR FAVORITE DAIRY-FREE ICE CREAM SANDWICHES

slightly artificial, and a few others mentioned that these tasted overwhelmingly like cookies (specifically, for one of our testers, graham crackers). These are a goto for many vegans, though, since they’re widely available and inexpensive. And they are the only dairy-free sandwiches we tried that don’t include palm oil, which is something people may appreciate due to sustainability issues related to the use of palm oil.

That’s not necessarily a bad thing, since we found the ice cream to be creamy with a nice vanilla flavor. However, those cookies basically serve as a wrapper, existing more so that you aren’t just walking around with a giant fistful of ice cream rather than as an equal part of the eating experience.

FOR GROWN-UPS ALDEN’S VANILLA BEAN ROUND SAMMIES ($8.50 FOR 4)

This is the pinnacle of an adult ice cream sandwich. And by that, we mean adults will know to hoard these in a special place in the freezer, since there are only four of them per carton. Also, unless your kid has a sophisticated palate, they probably won’t appreciate the tiny flecks of vanilla bean swirled throughout the ice cream. Those flecks gave this sandwich the strongest vanilla taste of any of the sandwiches we tested (though it definitely had cookies-and-cream notes). Multiple testers commented that this one tasted like real, good-quality ice cream—almost as if someone took a big scoop and put it between two cookies (not all of the sandwiches we tasted were filled with ice cream you’d want to eat on its own).

FOR COCONUT LOVERS SO DELICIOUS VANILLA BEAN SANDWICHES ($4

FOR 8)

With a smooth, dense texture and tender cookies, the dairy-free So Delicious sandwich was a favorite among vegan and non-vegan testers alike. However, we must warn you: If you don’t like coconut, you will not like this treat. There’s no escaping that coconut taste, yet we didn’t think it was overpowering. (There’s an almond milk option too, but we didn’t test it.) We would have liked a bit more ice cream in these, since it didn’t stretch to all four corners of the cookies. Then again, we could have eaten this ice cream in pint form and been totally happy.

THE VEGAN CLASSIC TOFUTTI VANILLA CUTIES  ($6 FOR 8)

We found the soy-based Tofutti Cuties to be the closest to a dairystyle ice cream sandwich in looks and texture. But they just don’t have the same taste: One tester said the flavor was sweet and

VERY VANILLA ALDEN’S ORGANIC DAIRYFREE VANILLA BEAN ROUND SAMMIES ($9 FOR 4)

This version of Alden’s Round Sammie isn’t quite the same as the dairy-based one we tagged as a favorite, but it does have the same shape and vanilla bean flecks. The cookie is a bit lighter, and the ice cream isn’t as creamy—perhaps because this sandwich, rather than being coconut- or soy-based like the others, is more a mishmash of fats and starches (coconut oil, oat flour, brown rice, and pea protein, to name a few). But the Alden’s sandwich does have more of a vanilla flavor than our other two dairyfree candidates. And out of the three dairy-free treats we tried, this one had the most ice cream—it may actually be too much for little ones. Like that of its dairy-infused counterpart, this one’s price is more in the adult-treat realm.

HOW WE PICKED AND TESTED

First, we polled staffers on their favorite old-school ice cream sandwiches, which we defined as being vanilla ice cream between two chocolate wafer cookies. That meant no Chipwiches or It’s-It treats, although both were shouted out (quite loudly) as being staff picks. (We also had a staff-wide argument about whether or not Oreos counted as wafer cookies.)

Next, we scoured eight local grocery stores, while also using product Web

BY RACHEL CERICOLA/SPECIAL TO POLO LIFESTYLES

sites to keep tabs on availability in a few other regions around the country. When we want an ice cream sandwich, we want it pretty immediately, so we disqualified anything that was available only in limited regions or through mail-order.

Once we had a list, we went shopping, and we found that a few of our original 19

candidates were not so readily available. One company (Blue Bunny) sold everything but ice cream sandwiches in our area; another one’s sandwiches (Carvel) couldn’t be found (even by emailing customer service); and yet another (Turkey Hill) had discontinued its traditional ice cream sandwich offering altogether. We ended up with nine stan-

dard ice cream sandwiches and three dairy-free options. Each of us also recruited friends and family to participate in testing, when possible. Two staffers are based in New York City, one lives in Massachusetts, and one is located in Atlanta, which did influence availability. A few of us tested with brands obscured (this wasn’t always

possible, particularly when testers were tasting alone and had to unwrap their own sandwiches). And everyone took notes on the shape, taste, and texture of both the ice cream and the cookies. We also considered prices and ingredients.

YOU'RE RUINING YOUR CLOTHES

WHAT THE GARMENT CARE INDUSTRY DOESN'T WANT YOU TO KNOW

IF YOU’VE EVER REACHED INTO YOUR DRYER EXPECTING TO PULL OUT A LOAD OF DOWNY-SOFT LAUNDRY ONLY TO FIND A PILE OF STIFF, STARCHY GARMENTS, THERE’S A GOOD CHANCE YOU’RE USING TOO MUCH LAUNDRY DETERGENT.

Laundry detergent obviously gets dirt and stains out of your clothes, but if you use too much, you wind up creating a new mess. This is a result of detergent residue that hasn’t been fully rinsed out, and it can turn your previously soft wardrobe into a crunchy, scratchy, uncomfortable-to-wear load of clothes.

Too much detergent also creates a surplus of suds that can prevent your garments from rubbing against one another (which helps release trapped dirt from your clothes), according to website of Tide detergent.

Though it seems counterintuitive, the more detergent you use past a certain point, the dirtier your clothes become.

HOW MUCH LAUNDRY DETERGENT SHOULD YOU ACTUALLY USE?

To effectively clean your clothes, you need to use only 2 tablespoons per load at most—and that’s for big loads weighing 12 pounds or more. According to experts, one tablespoon is enough to thoroughly clean an average load, which usually weighs around 8 pounds. And if you’re hand-washing, experts recommend that you use even less. “When it comes to laundry detergent, a little will go a long way.”

The amount of detergent you should add varies greatly among brands, but keep in mind that the back of your bottle might recommend that you use more than 2 tablespoons per load. “Some detergent manufacturers are going to lie on the label,” investigative journalist Sarah Bodgan warned in a viral video about laundry stripping (more on laundry stripping below). “But remember, they’re selling a product, and they want you to buy more of it.”

It can be even worse if you’re using high-efficiency (HE) detergent, which is made from high-concentration, low-sudsing formulas and can be used in both tradi-

tional and HE machines. Liam and Sarah explain that HE detergents are at least double the concentration of traditional detergents. To clean your clothes, a high-efficiency washer uses less water than a traditional washing machine, so there’s even less water to dilute the detergent.

Bodgan recommends liquid detergent only, since it’s pre-dissolved. Though pre-portioned pods are convenient, you have less control over the amount. This can quickly lead to a buildup of chemicals and cleaning agents that stiffen your laundry. We don’t recommend powder detergent, either, since it doesn’t always dissolve and can leave behind clumps in your laundry.

THE BEST WAY TO REMOVE DETERGENT BUILDUP

To restore your wardrobe to its full glory, you need to remove the buildup of detergent burrowed into its fibers. Whirlpool advises soaking soiled laundry in a mixture of vinegar and water. In a deep sink or your bathtub, mix 1 cup vinegar into 1 quart water, and then toss in dirty clothes. If there are any visible detergent stains, rub the stained bit of the garment

against itself to loosen the buildup. Whirlpool recommends soaking for up to an hour and then running the clothes through the washing machine in a normal wash cycle.

Laundry stripping, which is a similar method of removing detergent buildup, has recently gained popularity on TikTok. This method aims to remove any excess laundry detergent, fabric softener, body oils, and hard-water minerals that have built up in your clothes over time. And it involves a specific mixture of ingredients: a tubful of hot water, ½ cup borax, ½ cup washing soda, and a small amount of detergent. Add your laundry to the tub, and mix everything together, making sure all your clothes are submerged. After four hours, wring your clothes out well, and run them through a normal wash-and-dry cycle.

Our experts don’t necessarily think stripping makes your laundry noticeably softer—but that’s not to say you shouldn’t try it if you want to strip all the trapped materials from your clothes. “Go for it,” Bodgan says. “I have a feeling you’re not going to notice your towels being softer. You’re just going to know how disgusting you are— which is fine. We all are!”

UNRAVELING LUDWIG VAN BEETHOVEN

UNRAVELING THE MYSTERY OF BEETHOVEN'S LIFE, DEATH AND DESCENDANTS

BY ANALYZING SEVEN SAMPLES

OF

HAIR

SAID TO HAVE COME FROM LUDWIG VAN BEETHOVEN , RESEARCHERS DEBUNKED MYTHS ABOUT THE COMPOSER WHILE RAISING NEW QUESTIONS ABOUT HIS LIFE AND DEATH.

IN MARCH 1827JUST SHORT OF 200 YEARS AGO -LUDWIG VAN BEETHOVEN WAS DYING. AS HE LAY IN BED, WRACKED WITH ABDOMINAL PAIN AND JAUNDICED, GRIEVING FRIENDS AND ACQUAINTANCES CAME TO VISIT. AND SOME ASKED A FAVOR: COULD THEY CLIP A LOCK OF HIS HAIR FOR REMEMBRANCE?

The parade of mourners continued after Beethoven’s death at age 56, even after doctors performed a gruesome craniotomy, looking at the folds in Beethoven’s brain and removing his ear bones in a vain attempt to understand why the revered composer lost his hearing. Within three days of Beethoven’s death, not a single strand of hair was left on his head.

Ever since, a cottage indus-

try has aimed to understand Beethoven’s illnesses and the cause of his death. Now, an analysis of strands of his hair has upended long held beliefs about his health. The report provides an explanation for his debilitating ailments and even his death, while also raising new questions about his genealogical origins and hinting at a dark family secret.

The paper, by an international group of researchers, was published Wednesday in the journal Current Biology. It offers additional surprises: A famous lock of hair — the subject of a book and a documentary — was not Beethoven’s. It was from an Ashkenazi Jewish woman.

The study also found that Beethoven did not have lead poisoning, as had been widely believed. Nor was he a Black man, as some had proposed. And a Flemish family in Belgium — who share the last name van Beethoven and had proudly claimed to be related — had no genetic ties to him.

Researchers not associat-

ed with the study found it convincing. It was “a very serious and well-executed study,” said Andaine SeguinOrlando, an expert in ancient DNA at the University Paul Sabatier, Toulouse, in France.

The detective work to solve the mysteries of Beethoven’s illness began on Dec. 1, 1994, when a lock of hair said to be Beethoven’s was auctioned by Sotheby’s. Four members of the American Beethoven Society, a private group that collects and preserves material related to the composer, purchased it for $7,300. They proudly displayed it at the Ira F. Brilliant Center for Beethoven Studies at San Jose State University in California.

But was it really Beethoven’s hair?

The story was that it was clipped by Ferdinand Hiller, a 15-year-old composer and ardent acolyte who visited Beethoven four times before he died. On the day after Beethoven died, Hiller clipped a lock of his hair. He gave it to his son decades later as a birthday gift. It was

kept in a locket. The locket with its strands of hair was the subject of a best-selling book, “Beethoven’s Hair,” by Russell Martin, published in 2000, and made into a documentary film in 2005.

An analysis of the hair at Argonne National Laboratory in Illinois found lead levels as high as 100 times normal. In 2007, authors of a paper in The Beethoven Journal, a scholarly journal published by San Jose State, speculated that the composer might have been inadvertently poisoned by medicine, wine, or eating and drinking utensils. That was where matters stood until 2014 when Tristan Begg, then a masters student studying archaeology at the University of Tübingen in Germany, realized that science had advanced enough for DNA analysis using locks of Beethoven’s hair.

“It seemed worth a shot,” said Mr. Begg, now a Ph.D. stu-

dent at Cambridge University.

William Meredith, a Beethoven scholar, began searching for other locks of Beethoven’s hair, buying them with financial support from the American Beethoven Society, at private sales and auctions. He borrowed two more from a university and a museum. He ended up with eight locks, including the hairs from Ferdinand Hiller.

First, the researchers tested the Hiller lock. Because it turned out to be from a woman, it was not — could not be — Beethoven’s. The analysis also showed that the woman had genes found in Ashkenazi Jewish populations.

Meredith speculates that the authentic hair from Beethoven was destroyed and replaced with strands from Sophie Lion, the wife of Ferdinand Hiller’s son Paul.

She was Jewish. As for the other seven locks, one was inauthentic, five had identical DNA and one could not be tested. The five locks with identical DNA were of different provenances and two had impeccable chains of custody, which gave the researchers confidence that they were hair from Beethoven.

Ed Green, an expert in ancient DNA at the University of California, Santa Cruz, who was not involved with the study, agreed. “The fact that they have so many independent locks of hair, with different histories, that all match one another is compelling evidence that this is bona fide DNA from Beethoven,” he said.

When the group had the DNA sequence from Beethoven’s hair, they tried to answer longstanding

questions about his health. For instance, why might he have died from cirrhosis of the liver? He drank, but not to excess, said Theodore Albrecht, a professor emeritus of musicology at Kent State University in Ohio. Based on his study of texts left by the composer, he described what is known of Beethoven’s imbibing habits in an email.

“In none of these activities did Beethoven exceed the line of consumption that would make him an ‘alcoholic,’ as we would commonly define it today,” he wrote. Beethoven’s hair provided a clue: He had DNA variants that made him genetically predisposed to liver disease. In addition, his hair contained traces of hepatitis B DNA, indicating an infection with this virus, which can destroy a person’s liver.

But how did Beethoven get

infected? Hepatitis B is spread through sex and shared needles, and during childbirth. Beethoven did not use intravenous drugs, Meredith said. He never married, although he was romantically interested in several women. He also wrote a letter — although he never sent it — to his “immortal Beloved,” whose identity has been the subject of much scholarly intrigue. Details of his sex life remain unknown.

Arthur Kocher, a geneticist at the Max Planck Institute for Evolutionary Anthropology in Germany and one of the new study’s co-authors, offered another possible explanation for his infection: The composer could have been infected with hepatitis B during childbirth. The virus is commonly spread this way, he said, and infected babies can end up with a chronic

infection that lasts a lifetime. In about a quarter of people, chronic infection will eventually lead to cirrhosis of the liver or liver cancer. “It could ultimately lead someone to die of liver failure,” he said.

The study also revealed that Beethoven was not genetically related to others in his family line. His Y chromosome DNA differed from that of a group of five people with the same last name — van Beethoven — living in Belgium today and who, according to archival records, share a 16th-century ancestor with the composer. That indicates there must have been an out-of-wedlock affair in Beethoven’s direct paternal line. But where?

Maarten Larmuseau, a co-author of the new study who is a professor of genetic genealogy at the University of Leuven in Belgium, suspects that Ludwig van Beethoven’s father was born to the composer’s grandmother with a man other than his grandfa-

ther. There are no baptismal records for Beethoven’s father, and his grandmother was known to have been an alcoholic. Beethoven’s grandfather and father had a difficult relationship. These factors, Larmuseau said, are possible signs of an extramarital child.

Beethoven had his own difficulties with his father, Meredith said. And while his grandfather, a noted court musician in his day, died when Beethoven was very young, he honored him and kept his portrait with him until the day he died.

Meredith added that when rumors circulated that Beethoven was actually the illegitimate son of Friedrich Wilhelm II or even Frederick the Great, Beethoven never refuted them. The researchers had hoped their study of Beethoven’s hair might explain some of the composer’s agonizing health problems. But it did not provide definitive answers.

The composer suffered from

terrible digestive problems, with abdominal pain and prolonged bouts of diarrhea. The DNA analysis did not point to a cause, although it pretty much ruled out two proposed reasons: celiac disease and ulcerative colitis. And it made a third hypothesis — irritable bowel syndrome — unlikely. Hepatitis B could have been the culprit, Kocher said, although it is impossible to know for sure.

The DNA analysis also offered no explanation for Beethoven’s hearing loss, which started in his mid-20s and resulted in deafness in the last decade of his life. The researchers took pains to discuss their results in advance with those directly affected by their research.

On the evening of March 15, Larmuseau met with the five people in Belgium whose last name is van Beethoven and who provided DNA for the study. He started right out with the bad news: They are not genetically related to

Ludwig van Beethoven. They were shocked.

“They didn’t know how to react,” Larmuseau said. “Every day they are remembered by their special surname. Every day they say their name and people say, ‘Are you related to Ludwig van Beethoven?’” That relationship, Larmuseau said, “is part of their identity.”

And now it is gone. The study’s findings that the Hiller lock was from a Jewish woman stunned Martin, author of “Beethoven’s Hair.” “Wow, who would have imagined it,” he said. Now, he added, he wants to find descendants of Sophie Lion, the wife of Paul Hiller, to see if the hair was hers. And he’d like to find out if she had lead poisoning. For Meredith, the project was an amazing adventure.

“The whole complex story is astonishing to me.” he said. “And I’ve been part of it since 1994. One finding just leads to another unexpected finding.”

THE YEAR OF MICHELLE YEOH

SHE’S BEEN A BEAUTY QUEEN AND AN ACTION HERO, BUT NOW WITH THE AWARDS SUCCESS OF EVERYTHING EVERYWHERE ALL AT ONCE AND THAT AVATAR SEQUEL ON THE HORIZON, MICHELLE YEOH FINDS HERSELF AT THE ZENITH OF THE HOLLYWOOD FIRMAMENT. IT’S NO SURPRISE IF YOU’VE BEEN PAYING ATTENTION.

Michelle Yeoh strides through the world like a woman who has never been hurt. This is not the case. In her nearly four decades as an actor Yeoh

has been punched, kicked and bruised so badly that one time a director thought she had smudged her hands with dirt. She dislocated a shoulder, fractured a rib, ruptured an artery, and ripped her ACL doing a highwire stunt. Once she leaped from a speeding van onto a convertible, bounced off the windshield, and nearly died tumbling onto the pavement. What happened after that? She got up and did the stunt again.

For Yeoh life isn’t so different from a stunt. Planning helps, but the unexpected still happens. So every morning in bed she performs a gratitude ritual: She stretches every muscle in her body, notes the day’s creaks and throbs, and apologizes to it for the joy she takes in challenging her limits. I’m sorry, please forgive

me, I love you.

“To good health!” Yeoh says, hoisting a spicy margarita. It’s a Friday afternoon in Beverly Hills, and the 60-year-old actress is easing into a relaxing weekend, a luxury she hasn’t enjoyed in a while. That Yeoh is toasting to health could be seen as a sign of humility. She could have raised a glass to her pick of successes: the TV show she wrapped earlier this week, the new series she started today, her several major movies on the horizon (including James Cameron’s long-anticipated sequel to Avatar), sitting front row at Balenciaga and Schiaparelli during Paris Fashion Week, or her astounding star turn as multiverse-jumping laundromat owner Evelyn Wang in Everything Everywhere All at Once. The indie sensation

has earned more than $90 million at the box office so far and was met with a critical response that can only be described as rhapsodic. The film swept 10 awards at the Oscars—including Yeoh for Best Actress.

The first thing that registers when you meet Yeoh in person is how startlingly small she is, stacked against her imposing on-screen presence. She has built her career playing women poised to stab their rivals with a sword—or, in the case of her Crazy Rich Asians character, grande dame Eleanor Young, a cutting remark.

“I was terrified,” the director Paul Feig says of his first dinner with Yeoh. “I expected this stoic person who could beat me up.” To his surprise,

Yeoh made him giggle so hard that he cast her in his next two comedies, Last Christmas and this fall›s subversive, star-studded fairy tale, The School for Good and Evil, in which she delivers some of the movie’s zingiest punchlines.

They’ve become close friends who delight in sending each other bottles of bubbly. “Insanely expensive,” Feig notes of their shared taste in good champagne, eye-catching outfits, and the cocktail they invented together, the “Five Yeoh-larm Margarita,” which features muddled jalapeños, hot sauce, and pepper on the rim. “We love to step it up.”

That’s clear in everything Yeoh does. Every inch of her is expressive. She laughs with her full body, clapping to punctuate a joke. Yeoh claims to speak only “one and

one-fourth” languages (for husband Jean Todt she has tried to learn French, but she struggles with the genders and pronunciation), but after a few minutes with her one becomes aware that she has invented her own nonverbal language: continual interjections of “Pyongow!” and “Gwarghhh!” and “Kadadatadata!” that, in the moment, make perfect sense.

At 16, Yeoh moved from Ipoh, a former tin-mining town, to England to study dance. She dreamed of a career in ballet, but shortly after she arrived, the school she was attending measured her limbs and declared her hopelessly stubby. “It’s very brutal,” Yeoh said. Fine, she thought, I can teach. Then she injured her back, and that plan, too, slipped away.

Yeoh’s father Yeoh Kian Teik, a lawyer and politician, trust-

ed his daughter to follow her own desires, but her mother Janet, a showboat herself, thought her daughter should be famous. Growing up, Yeoh would open a magazine and be stunned to see her own face: Janet had a habit of secretly mailing in her photograph. Yeoh was dismayed but not shocked to learn that her mother had entered her in the 1983 Miss Malaysia pageant. She was more surprised when she won. “I’m a little competitive by nature,” she said. Then she shrugged and said, “I think the judges were blind.” Her second pageant was Miss World, where she walked across the stage wearing a traditional gold and green costume, but she never competed again. When asked if her mother takes credit for her career, Yeoh says, “All the time! She always tells me, ‘It’s me, I created her, I gave her this,’ and I’m like, ‘Yes, Mom.’”

Believe it or not, Everything

Everywhere marks the first time Yeoh has been number one on the call sheet of a Hollywood production. Now that she has reached this benchmark, Yeoh has been inundated with offers tempting her to extend her stateside stay. It’s the fulfillment of a life spent working, but right now what she really wants is to clear her brain with a trip to Bali, or a simple weekend at home by the pool with her family and a bottle—okay, maybe two—of wine. She has worked her way to the top of the Hollywood food chain, but she has also earned the chance to enjoy the spoils of her success.

“My guiding light,” she says, “is you do it because you want to do it—with passion. Our life is a gift, and hopefully when it’s time to go I will say, ‘I lived it to the fullest.’”

FASHION & STYLE

CHANEL'S CAMELLIA COLLECTION

OSCAR TOP FASHION MOMENTS

JEREMY SCOTT STEPS DOWN AT MOSCHINO

COLLECT TIMEPIECES LIKE THE PROS

CHANEL'S CAMELLIA COLLECTION

AS HOUSE CODES GO, IT IS OFTEN A DISTINCTIVE PATTERN, A STATEMENT LOGO, A HANDCRAFTED FABRIC, A SPECIFIC HUE, OR IF PATENTLY POSSIBLE, A SILHOUETTE, WHICH ARE OFTEN MOST STRONGLY ASSOCIATED WITH A BRAND’S DNA.

The house of Chanel stands mostly alone in their adoption of the camellia as its official brand symbol, utilizing this Queen of the winter flowers as a motif, 3D embellishment, or decorative brooch. It is now so synonymous with the brand that it is closely associated with Chanel in all its guises, but in particular in minimalist white against their monochrome packaging.

Explaining the flower’s significance further, Creative Director Virginie Viard said during a preview, “The camellia is more than a theme, it’s an eternal code of the House. I find it reassuring and famil-

iar, I like its softness and its strength”.

Clustered around the neckline of a classic leather coat or scattered across the body of a boxy cardigan, in stark white against black, was a whimsical and fun take on florals in fashion, that are so often relegated to an all-over print. A particularly effective play on texture was Viard’s use of fluffy feathers to create an almost surreal version of the flower on a sweater – a style which has been making the rounds on the runways this season.

Breaking out of the initial black and white palette which opened the show, there was a welcome step change with the introduction of a sweet fondant pink tone in a devoré spot soft midi skirt and boxy tweed jacket. Youthful additions were seen in the inclusion of biker and Bermuda shorts and asymmetric hems on skirts, but also as part of a knitted tweed set that featured a one-shoulder sweater.

There was a definite lightness which permeated pockets of the collection that spoke to the slow rise in bohemian

STYLE

romance that we have seen over the last few days of Paris Fashion Week. Viard noted that she wanted this collection to be “delicate and in motion”, and this was executed in the most Chanel way – boho became a coral tiered jacquard skirt that was paired with a fluffy belted knit, a lace-yoke blouson midi which came in a camellia printed chiffon, much in the same way that was seen at Akris and Dundas. And in a love letter to the 1970s an off-white maxi dress was lovingly crocheted with a ruffled collar and a fluffy finish.

In a moving tribute to the late photographer William Klein, the film and photo series which accompanied the show was inspired by Kleins film “Who Are You, Polly Maggoo?”. Selecting Japanese actress Nana Komatsu to front the campaign, Viard indicated she did so for her natural sensibility and delicate features which embodied the subtle nature of the flower.

STYLE

THE BEST LOOKS FROM THE 2023 OSCARS

KENDALL JENNER IN MAISON MARGIELA

STYLE

LADY GAGA IN VERSACE

REILEY KEOUGH IN CELINE

J. ELLIS IN FENDI

AUSTIN BUTLER IN DIOR

ANDIE MCDOWELL

DAVE FRANCO IN DIOR

A$AP ROCKY AND RIHANNA

STYLE

DONALD GLOVER IN ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

LENNY KRAVITZ

JOHN LEGEND

KAIA GERBER IN CELINE

LESLIE MANN IN OSCAR DE LA RENTA

JOHN CHO IN ZEGNA

MANUEL RIOS IN LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNINS

YULIA NAVALNAYA & ODESSA RAE IN CHLOE

OSCAR FASHION

STYLE

JODIE TURNER SMITH AND JOSHUA JACKSON

OSCAR FASHION

SALMA HAYEK

STYLE

JAMIE LEE CURTIS

KE HUY QUAN

IDRIS ELBA IN GUCCI

THUSO MBEDU IN DIOR

OSCAR FASHION

STYLE

CAST & CREW OF "EVERYTHING EVERYWHERE ALL AT ONCE"

JEREMY SCOTT IS LEAVING MOSCHINO AFTER 10 YEARS

Moschino has announced that Jeremy Scott is stepping down as creative director. The designer has been at the helm of the Italian luxury house since October 2013 with his groundbreaking Fall 2014 collection, which laid the foundation for a conversation on the role of fashion in art, consumerism, and popular culture.

These ideas went on to define much of Scott’s work at the house, which saw the designer pick up on Franco Moschino’s legacy of pop-art provocation by merging an incisive sense of humor and cultural consciousness with a couture-minded panache. Along the way, the designer also racked up a number of iconic red-carpet moments and collaborated with artists like Madonna by creating the costumes for her world tour.

“These past 10 years at Moschino have been a wonderful celebration of creativity and imagination.  I am so proud of the legacy I am leaving behind. I would like to thank Massimo Ferretti for the honor of leading this iconic house. I would also like to thank all my fans around the world who celebrated me, my collections, and my vision for without you none of this would be possible,” said Scott.

There’s no denying that Scott’s time at Moschino has left an indelible mark in the history of the house, and it’s actually hard to imagine Moschino without him.

Read on for some of the highlights of Scott's career at Moschino.

STYLE

JEREMY SCOTT'S ICONIC LOOKS AT MOSCHINO

STYLE

JEREMY SCOTT'S ICONIC LOOKS AT MOSCHINO

STYLE

BUILDING AN ENVIABLE VINTAGE WATCH COLLECTION

It’s no secret that vintage watches have ratcheted up in popularity over the last few years. And during the pandemic, in particular, the rise of old watches has been meteoric. So much so, in fact, that Alan Bedwell—the antiques dealer behind Foundwell—could sell a watch on a Monday and a week later, the original dealer would have given him an extra $10,000 for it.

If you’re entranced by the world of dials and movements, from Cartiers to Rolexes, and want to make sure the latest additions to your collection are up to snuff, Bedwell shared his tips for buying vintage watches at South by Southwest. Read on to find out how to amass a

collection that you’ll love—and that will love you back in the future.

FORGET TRENDS. BUY WHAT YOU LIKE.

Bedwell’s most important tip is possibly the most obvious, but one that collectors might overlook as they try to find the trendiest or rarest watch. Rather, you should put your money into something that you’ll appreciate and wear. The dealer reminded everyone to try things on, expand your horizons, and not stick to the usual brands. He’s not going to knock the Rolex Submariner, but “don’t let it be an obvious choice,” he said. So, which watches would he recommend?

Bedwell said he was partial to the Cartier Tank, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso and some models from Tudor (one of which he wore himself).

BUY THE BEST—WITHIN REASON

If you like a particular reference, buy the best example you can find in your budget. You don’t have to exceed your means to find a beautiful timepiece, and you don’t have to settle for something you don’t like. “A bad watch is a bad watch,” Bedwell cautioned, so pay attention to quality. If a watch has one or more of the following, you’d be best to steer clear: heavy polishing, a refinished or damaged

dial, replaced hands or a replaced or damaged movement (more on this in the next tip, too).

CONDITION IS KEY—WITH CONDITIONS

“Condition is very, very, very key,” Bedwell noted. A watch with its original dial and a lack of polishing is considered to be more valuable than a spruced-up timepiece—a relatively new phenomenon in the watch world over the last two decades, Bedwell pointed out. That’s because polishing actually removes metal from the timepiece, which collectors believe alters the structure of the watch.

STYLE

A vintage Cartier that hasn’t been polished can command a premium. But if the same watch is polished, it will lose a chunk of its value. That’s because the original features—even with a few scratches here and there—are what make watches “special, unique, interesting, and compelling,” Bedwell said. So, look out for the unpolished description in the dealer’s write up. And if you’re unsure, ask.

Of course, while a pristine original dial might be ideal for some watches, Bedwell pointed out that certain flaws are not only acceptable but can make the watch more desirable—and valuable. As

an example, he pointed up Rolexes with “tropical” dials—which have become faded or brownish over time, due to sun exposure and a few minor manufacturing errors. As any serious Rolex collector can tell you, Rollies with tropical dials are a coveted rarity, and people are willing to cough up serious cash for them. So, your investment in the right imperfection might just yield the perfect watch for your collection.

PRESERVE WEALTH & ADD VALUE IN MANHATTAN

Manhattan real estate values are up 40% from 2013

DANA ROMITA  REAL ESTATE CONTRIBUTOR  @danaromita

THE DOMESTIC AND WORLD FINANCIAL MARKETS HAVE BEEN AND CONTINUE TO HOLD OUR ATTENTION.

Stock market volatility, the interest rate rollercoaster, covid, bank distress and more represent a combination of events

the likes of which I’ve not seen in my lifetime -- and I am sure the same holds true for most of you.

Savvy and seasoned investors know the importance of staying diversified especially in these times of turmoil. Less experienced investors tend to make rash, emotional decisions that sadly are often regretted later in volatile markets like we’re experiencing now.

Fortunately, there are enough of the

former group – veteran, wise investors -- that the Manhattan real estate market remains solid. My firm, Douglas Elliman, released a report in early February reviewing the top 10% of the market and saw valuations are up 11.1% from 2021 and 40.8% from 2013.

Buyers around the world view Manhattan luxury real estate as a solid asset that has historically safely preserved wealth and gained value. The luxury market ($4M and above for the

purposes of this article) remains dominated by the cash buyer. Though such buyers have maintained a strong presence so far in 2023, continued financial instability and high interest rates are triggering less competition than in the 2022 market. This change benefits today’s buyers by providing them a little more time to evaluate their options compared to last year’s more frenzied market. If this market is a better fit for your buying style, now may be a good time for you. We’ve learned anything over the last few years that, overall, patience and a long-term diversified approach to financial management, including your real estate assets, represent the smart road through the forest of volatility and uncertainty.

WHAT HAVE WE BEEN HEARING ABOUT THE REAL ESTATE MARKET IN MANHATTAN?

Initially, the rise in interest rates caused a slowdown in purchasing below the $4M level and even gave some pause to cash buyers, who took a “wait and see” approach. These buyers expected prices to bottom out, and anticipated taking advantage of fire sales. The market again confounded buyers hoping for a significant drop in Manhattan luxury real estate values. While prices did decrease from the excessive highs reached in 2021 and early 2022, rather than a

precipitous decline, we saw a normalization. Sellers held firm on pricing, buyers declined to budge in their perception of how sellers should behave, and the hoped-for flood of fresh inventory proved to be a trickle – all of which slowed the market’s activity.

Eventually, buyers who needed to move and the sellers who needed to sell found some common ground, with the overall advantage going to the buyers, but not in any dramatic capacity. As this dynamic played out through the winter, interest rates began to decline, mortgage bankers became more proactive in cultivating relationships with real estate brokers, and the “wait and see” crowd grew weary of the wait and entered the market. After the unprecedented pace of change in the last several years, buyer and sellers appear to again be more aligned on value and activity has increased.

Furthermore, spring is upon us and this season always results in a wave of new listings. Notwithstanding the “excitement” in financial markets, listings are coming to market at a typical spring pace. Overall home-buying interest is robust again and more choices are available. Real estate developers have responded to the lifestyle changes of the past several years by offering a wider breadth of options. Supply and demand

are rising in parity; the market has returned to a well-functioning state.

CO-OPS VS. CONDOS IN TODAY’S MARKET

A defining aspect of the market is always the co-op/condo discussion. Which one is the best option for you? Best value? Best investment? Which is performing best in this market? In brief, condos cost more and come with higher closing costs, but they allow for greater flexibility in purchasing, ownership, subletting, and resale. Coops often offer greater value for the dollar (anywhere from 20 -30%) but are much more restrictive regarding purchasing, ownership, and subletting -- if permitted at all. A benefit of co-ops is their economic fortitude, illustrated by how well their values weather the 2008 financial crisis. Remember: co-ops comprise roughly 70% of the market so they remain the significant majority of available properties

POST-PANDEMIC

Speaking of weathering the storm, two major elements are in play for 2023 as the world at large puts COVID-19 in the rear-view mirror. First, buyers flooded the market during the worst of

the pandemic, buying up properties often sight unseen. Such impulsive or even panic buying has receded, and most purchases are being made by active buyers acquiring properties they actually desire and want to live in. Luxury Portfolio International (LPI) sums it up succinctly: “The fundamentals of real estate are returning as buyers look for properties that offer space outside, a trophy view/ location (e.g., waterfront) and updated or new amenities throughout the home.” While during the COVID-19 era, little value was placed on shared amenities that few people planned to use in condominium buildings, that trend has reversed as the pandemic recedes. For example, LPI noted that some markets show increased sales of luxury condominiums, “bucking the pandemic trend for distancing.”

REGARDING THOSE AMENITIES

Private outdoor space is not as much of a prized commodity as it once was, while extra indoor space for a home office remains desirable. Luxury buyers are refocused on views and comprehensive, five-star hotel-quality amenity spaces. After the pandemic, people wondered whether shared amenity space would ever be popular again. Well, it is back in demand, and luxury properties are

in constant competition on the range and caliber of their amenity offerings. For example, Central Park Tower offers an indoor pool and spa, a high-tech fitness center, an outdoor terrace and deck, a screening room, and world-class concierge services. Aman New York occupies the iconic Crown Building and features access to unrivaled facilities, including the Jazz Club, the Wine Room, and the Aman Spa, as well as 24/7 concierge services. Meanwhile, The Waldorf Residences boasts an indoor pool, elite fitness center, a private dining room and kitchen, and access to the Grand Salon, a theater, the Monte Carlo Gaming Room, 24-hour valet service, and more. 111 West 57th Street, the second tallest apartment building in America, features a pool, spa, gym, a terrace and lounges, and a dedicated concierge. The amenities in all these buildings and beautifully designed and appointed and would augment the lifestyle of even the most discerning owners.

CONCLUSION

All of us have experienced unprecedented change in the last three years. The pace of these changes have been reflected in rapid changes in what’s most desired, and valued, in the Manhattan luxury real estate market. I’m always happy to

provide you insight into the current situation and how things are changing now. Among the most common questions I’m asked are whether the buyer should look toward a co-op or condo given current market trends. Currently, the coop market has slightly more inventory than demand, but it’s negligible. Demand for condos is greater than inventory levels support, but inventory levels should continue to rise over the next few months. A number of exciting new buildings will soon be available.

Another significant decision for both buyers and sellers centers on renovation. The majority of buyers continue to find “move-in-ready” listings most desirable. As a seller, is the time and investment required to update your unit worthwhile? If you are considering listing your apartment for sale and it needs work or is dated style-wise, particularly the kitchen and bathrooms, what is the right pricing to attract buyers and sell your home?

We’re now experiencing greater alignment between buyers and sellers on value, increased supply and a broader range of building styles and options. Please reach out if now might be the right time for you to sell your property or buy a property in the Manhattan luxury real estate market.

MANSION OF THE MONTH CASTILLO PACIFICO RANCHO SANTA FE,

CALIF. 92067

PRICE $29,000,000 | BEDROOMS 8 | BATHROOMS 10 FULL AND 4 PARTIAL | INTERIOR 15,000 SQ FT. | EXTERIOR 14 ACRES

Crowning a 14-acre plateau in the picturesque hills of Rancho Santa Fe’s exclusive Covenant, this iconic, gated sanctuary is graced with rare 270° ocean and mountain views.

On the exterior, ancient honed white Texas Limestone is juxtaposed with sleek, modern Cor-Ten Steel, glass, and rich Mahogany to create a contemporary mosaic of unique materials.

The interior, with its rich, luxurious Imbuia Brazilian Walnut flooring and walls of Venetian plaster, fashioned from

marble dust, creates a canvas of intrinsic natural beauty resulting in a masterpiece lovingly christened by its owner as “Castillo Pacifico”.

Museum-sized hallways provide ample display areas for art and artifacts. Six generous en-suite bedrooms are woven into living, dining, cooking and relaxing spaces, each surrounded by sweeping panoramic views.

The executive office, with its conference room, powder room and bar, may be accessed by a private entrance. On the

lower level, a staff apartment with a full kitchen and bathroom adjoins a recreation area that features a gym, spa bathroom, and catering kitchen, all with easy access to the championship-designed tennis court.

A detached two-bedroom, 2-bath guesthouse with kitchen and lounge is surrounded by fragrant gardens, exotic trees, and groomed hiking paths. A gated driveway gently meanders to the courtyard with its welcoming circular motor court.

Once inside, guests will marvel at the indoor spaces and magnificent Pacific Ocean views. Castillo Pacifico was designed for indoor-outdoor living that could only happen in its near-perfect climate.

Outdoors, sculpture and meditation gardens blend with covered and heated entertainment pavilions, a fully equipped kitchen, pool, spa, vendor’s lounge, and an 8-car attached garage. Seamless movement between indoors and the rest of its 14 acres adds to the peace, tranquility, and security of this iconic estate.

MANSION OF THE MONTH

CASTILLO PACIFICO

MANSION OF THE MONTH

CASTILLO PACIFICO

NANTES

PAYS DE LA LOIRE

44000 FRANCE

PRICE $29,967,206 USD

BEDROOMS 8 / BATHROOMS 2 FULL INTERIOR 10,7639 SQ FT. / EXTERIOR 317.29 ACRES

NANTES, PAYS DE LA LOIRE, 44000 FRANCE

HUS STUD FARM

This exceptional estate comprises not only a historic chateau but also one of France’s biggest equestrian facilities with

the capacity to house approximately 400 horses. The castle has been restored and offers 1000 sq. meters of perfectly renovated living space including an indoor pool, a steam room and a gym. The spacious grounds comprise 128 hectares including private access to the River

Erdre, a 30-meter mooring, extensive equestrian training facilities including show jumping and dressage with 200 hectares extra rental. Restored outbuildings, helicopter pad and only 35 kilometers from the international airport. The sale includes 300 horses.

CASTILLO CARIBE CARIBBEAN LUXURY IN THE CAYMAN ISLANDS

PRICE UPON REQUEST

NOW YOU CAN HAVE IT ALL: LIFESTYLE, LUXURY, LOCATION AND LIMITED TAX LIABILITY. WITHOUT DOUBT CASTILLO CARIBE IS ONE OF THE FINEST BEACH-FRONT ESTATE HOMES IN THE WORLD OFFERING EVERY LUXURY FOR MODERN DAY LIFE WITH ALL THE LIFESTYLE OPTIONS ONE WOULD EXPECT FROM THE CAYMAN ISLANDS AND THE CARIBBEAN.

Although the Cayman Islands enjoy year-round sunshine and a temperate climate, this benefit is eclipsed in most people’s eyes by the Islands’ offshore status. The Cayman Islands are well known as a financial center on the world’s stage and provide the highest quality of lifestyle available in a tax

neutral environment, making it very appealing to people of high net worth to seek residency here - a position that is actively encouraged by the local government and, as a British Overseas Territory, is a very stable option.

There are a number of destinations in the world that are able to offer offshore status to a greater or lesser degree, but the Cayman Islands have no local taxes whatsoever: no property tax, no income tax, no capital gains tax and no inheritance tax. Castillo Caribe offers a rare opportunity to combine this with privacy, security, luxury and lifestyle all on a pristine white sandy beach overlooking the crystal-clear waters of the Caribbean Sea.

The space afforded here is too limited to provide adequate description of all the properties features and amenities, please request a detailed package by emailing: heather.carrigan@sothebysrealty.com.

In Search of Solace Climate Change's Impact on Wine

HOW CLIMATE CHANGE IS ALREADY DISRUPTING

THE WINE WE LOVE

WILLIAM SMITH @willismith_2000 COPY EDITOR & CONTRIBUTOR

WHILE CONTEMPLATING A TOPIC FOR THIS MONTH’S COLUMN, NORTHERN CALIFORNIA WAS EXPERIENCING YET ANOTHER “ATMOSPHERIC RIVER,” DUMPING RAIN AND SNOW AT RECORD LEVELS.

In Napa, lying just a few hundred feet above sea level, snow blanketed vineyards and vines. Social media blew up - not just with images most had never before seen, but with lots of concerned wine drinkers asking questions about the impact on the vines. Growers assured their consumers that because bud break had not yet happened, all was fine. Plus, in the face of record drought, moisture in whatever form was most welcome.

Of course, the deluge of rain and snow comes in the midst of record drought

in California (and many other places). The impact of a parched wine country is still fresh in the minds of many wine drinkers. In August 2020, several fires, sparked by lightning, ignited dried-out vegetation and tore through Sonoma, Napa, Solano, Yolo and Lake Counties. Nearly one-third of the acreage in Napa County burned. One month later, yet another fire erupted in Napa, consuming 40,000 acres and destroying 1,200 structures – including wineries and luxe resorts. Between August and October of that year, over 400,000 acres burned and much of wine country, while grapes

were ripening on the vines and field workers expected to soon harvest, was chock full of smoke.

Back to the present, at nearly the same time that California was experiencing its own freak weather, across the world, yet another wine region was reeling from increasingly unpredictable weather. While not a stranger to cyclones, the one that hit New Zealand in mid-February was particularly destructive. Fueled by rising water and air temperatures, Cyclone Gabriel clobbered the country’s wine region with floodwaters and what one media account called “torrents of silt” –and all right as harvest was set to begin for the 2023 vintage.

And in Chile – also in February as grapes were ripening in anticipation of harvest – several hundred fires devastated some of the country’s most historic vineyards, burning more than 1 million acres and leveling more than 2,000 structures, including vineyards and wine cellars. As Wine Spectator’s Aaron Romano wrote of the disaster, “Many of

the grapes slated for the 2023 vintage are all but ruined by smoke exposure or heat damage.”

Climate change is impacting everything and as these couple of examples underscore, that includes wine. The triad of unpredictability, increased severity and more frequent occurrence of impactful weather events are already affecting how and where grapes are grown and, ultimately, impact the wine consumer.

Take the 2020 fire events in northern California. Wine growers in the region lost an estimated $601 million USD in crop value according to the industry trade group, California Association of Winegrape Growers. If not actually consumed by fire itself, many winegrowers and winemakers opted to drop the fruit for fear of smoke taint. A majority of growers did harvest the 2020 vintage, but even now, what is eventually released remains in question.

Rick Aldine, North Coast Grape Manager for Agajanian Vineyards & Wine Company, told Wine Business

Monthly in 2022, “Every vineyard and every varietal that was hanging after August 17 from Mendocino all the way down to San Luis Obispo has a smoke taint number.” He continued, “That is a fact. Not one grower can say ‘I don’t have taint.’ I can tell you, every grower has a taint number now.”

For growers that did harvest, they also saw the value of their grapes decline by nearly 50 percent compared to 2019 and the actual volume of the 2020 harvest declined by nearly 30 percent.

In New Zealand, early estimates peg the overall damage from Cyclone Gabriel at upward of $8 billion USD though the actual impact on the 2023 harvest is not yet known, even in the heavily impacted Hawke’s Bay wine region, the nation’s second-largest wine region.

In 2019, The New York Time’s wine critic, Eric Asimov, wrote about the impacts of climate change on wine in a four-part series. He cited five factors profoundly affecting the industry, and I would add, will transform how we experience wine.

In Search of Solace Climate Change's Impact on Wine

HOW CLIMATE CHANGE IS ALREADY DISRUPTING THE WINE WE LOVE

First, he described how the wine map is “expanding.” Areas once thought too cold for ideal grape growing are proving to be ideal in the new changing climate. “England is a perfect example,” he wrote. “Thirty years ago, nobody had ever heard of English sparkling wine. But as the climate has warmed, a world-class sparkling wine industry has developed.” He also describes the migration of grape growing into parts of northern Europe, including Denmark, Norway, and Sweden and in the Southern Hemisphere, “deep into Patagonia in Argentina and Chile.”

Second, as the planet warms, vineyards are being planted at ever higher “altitudes once considered inhospitable to growing wine grapes.” From Washington State to Burgundy to the famed vineyards of Catena Zapata in Argentina, vineyards are going up and up and up with great success.

Third, curtailing sunlight to prevent over-ripening of grapes is increasingly the norm. The placement of vineyards to take advantage of sunlight to help ripen grapes has gone in reverse, with every effort being made to shield grapes from intense afternoon sun through the orientation of new plantings and enhancing canopy management for existing vines. For consumers, the fourth factor identified by Asimov may be the most psychologically disruptive – namely that growing different types of wine grapes may be needed to maintain wine making in the most historic of regions. “It may seem impossible to imagine Bordeaux without Cabernet sauvignon and merlot, or Champagne without pinot noir and chardonnay, but the prospect of a much warmer future may require even the most famous of wine regions to rethink their methods,” he wrote.

I know. Mind blown.

Finally, Asimov’s fifth factor takes us back to where we started and the unpredictability of weather events in the emerging world. “Forest fires, flood, droughts – wine regions will have to learn how to deal regularly with these once-rare devastations.”

This much is clear. Wine making has been around for over 8,000 years and has adapted, time and again, to place and climate. I have no doubt it will continue to do so. But what it means in these early years of the 21st century for the artistry and acumen of the grower and winemaker alike has perhaps never been more paramount.

And for consumers, it means we need to broaden our understandings of both viticulture and viniculture beyond contemporary confines such that we can embrace and enjoy what the future has to offer.

As always, Salud!

ALIGN WITH YOUR

UNLEASH YOUR SPIRIT'S POTENTIAL

I am the intelligence of my Father’s rays

Emanating through my Mother’s veins Witnessing, in human expression

A self-illuminating path Of inner-reflection

AMRITLAL

Wisdom keepers, unraveling our cosmic fire Hearts united, within the golden hour To uphold our sacred mission As we birth our eternal soul Above fear’s division

OW DO YOU PIERCE BEYOND THE EYES TO WHICH YOU HAVE GROWN ACCUSTOMED, TO GRASP A SENSE OF THE WORLD THAT AROUSES YOUR HEART’S EXCITEMENT?consume 45 percent of pharmaceuticals globally while only representing 4.25 percent of the world population. Furthermore, the Commonwealth Fund reports that elderly Americans in the U.S. have the highest percentage of chronic health conditions of any modern nation. Similarly, the CDC shares that since the onslaught of the pandemic, the American lifespan has dropped the most since the decade leading up to the Great Depression.

Bonded by the will to evolve Awakened to the inner fire Sexless, ageless, nameless Bathed in the rising light Unified by divine love

- AMRITLAL SINGH

When freedom calls, how do you answer? What steps can you take to unravel your cords, dissolving limiting beliefs to reclaim your self-worth? When soul fulfillment is the goal, how deep will you reach to unleash your spirit’s potential?

According to a report by Atradius Collections, citizens of the United States

The disease of perception that has infected the minds of Western civilization, cripples the heart’s true sight. Through tactics of dark psychology employed by media marketing, the current American economy thrives on manipulating the dis-empowered to drug the pain of never knowing the potential of creating one’s own destiny.

Living to die and struggling to fly,

greed-driven industries feed off the light of humanity by using cultural brainwashing to coerce our species into accepting the disease that grows from the inside, while numbing our push to thrive, as the income-generating, expert-recommended way of life. How do we welcome the cosmic presence of a radiant, illuminated, realized species that walks the earth with their hearts held high? As humanity awakens to the truth of the spiritual forces, the questions we pose evolve as our mind’s perceptions expand. By harnessing the forces of the universe, through unconditional acceptance of one another, together, we shall touch the sky, hand in hand.

It is the universal divine right that every sentient being realize the bliss of experiencing life’s most majestic spiritual gifts. As a species united by the intelligence that evolves as our collective heart grows

YOUR PURPOSE

IN SYNC WITH YOUR VIBE

whole, how do we encourage those who cry from within, drowning in the sorrow that builds beneath their eyes, to stand for their right to know their soul’s plan? How do we inspire a global rebirth that sets the course for an enlightened Earth, allowing humanity to speak with one voice that ripples through the Heavens in command of what is rightfully ours? As the galactic cosmic cycle reverses with the end of the dark ages of Kali Yuga1, liberating Earth from the manipulation of the dark forces, humanity has begun its karmic unraveling process, creating an energetic vortex that descends our souls from the celestial heavens, igniting the dormant capabilities within our genome as the expansion of our minds activates the depth of sight perceived by our third eye. Fueled with higher vision, acts of hope shall turn the keys to initiate humanity’s power to believe, for as we accept the magnificence of our true spiritual being, we become empowered from within to take a quantum leap into an Age of Unity.

INITIATION INTO THE COSMIC STATE

In 2018, upon return from the soil of my family’s roots, where I partook from the wisdom of the Earth, in the land of the great battle of the Mahabharata where Lord Krishna spoke the Bhagavad-Gita, my higher self, through its celestial descent activated my consciousness to its original grace. A cosmic son awakening to his connection to the infinite, the embodiment of my soul initiated my cellular memory to behold the

truth of my ancestral lineages. Through an ancient process of soul retrieval, I was genetically activated to remember Divine Mother’s intention, restoring dormant abilities that liberated my mind to receive divine perception. As I shifted dimensions, bridging the Heavenly and Earthly planes, my transformation unfolded effortlessly, so long as I surrendered to the process of ascending purity. Releasing generations worth of anger and despair from my etheric bodies through past-life regression, I began remembering the depths of the spiritual war being waged upon Earth’s children, my own family, and that was when I began to struggle, for few could hear the words I was trying to speak, especially those closest to me.

Dr. Judith Swack and her colleague, Dr. Andrew Hahn, spent years deeply analyzing the wounded ego-structure in the Enneagram system of personality and co-developed the Essence Process to transform the compulsive and tormenting illusions of ego. One day in 2008, as Swack processed and released yet another ego program, she was launched into an egoless state of higher consciousness. In that state, she realized that her true self was simply a conscious flow of energy, a current in an infinite river of energy, and her three-dimensional form was a conduit for making a positive contribution within the world. Through complete surrender, she reached a state of Enlightenment that allowed her to begin integrating her Earthly embodiment through the next stage of evolution. She ascended, and, after nearly

two years of re-integration, the genius efforts of her soul’s return have empowered her to serve an awakening legion of empaths and lightworkers destined to shake the Earth awake. Swack has made this process available to everyone in her Transform Your Enneagram Type and Free Yourself from the Tyranny of Ego webinar series on her Web site.

With Swack’s insights, I recognized that the war within, which caused me so much strife, would be resolved as I cultivated my spiritual life. By dissolving our pain, we evolve in resilience. By honoring our ancient roots, our values grow with divine brilliance, activating the wisdom of our lineages as we accept and honor all life unconditionally to embody our most magnificent expression.

OVERCOMING UNAWARENESS AND MISIDENTIFICATION

Swack describes the conundrum of self-acceptance as such:

“In the three-dimensional embodied form, we are complex gestalt beings composed of a conscious mind, an unconscious mind, a body, an ego structure, and a soul who have created an internal map of the world, that is unique to each individual, and which we confuse with reality. Furthermore, we believe what we feel, even if we know it’s not true, and feelings run behavior. Our souls are made of God-Source-creation energy, and we are capable of creating the reality and life we desire, but we are consciously unaware that we are living in a map of illusions and misidentify

UNLEASH YOUR SPIRIT'S POTENTIAL

RECEIVE UNCONDITIONAL ACCEPTANCE

our true selves with our feelings, behaviors, and experiences. In order to create the lives we want, we need to achieve a level of awareness of ourselves outside of the map. It is in this state of higher consciousness and grace where we experience unconditional self-acceptance. There is no judgment or self-criticism because there are no ‘have-to’s.”

Artists of the soul, we are the masters of space, time and creation. Awakening children of the Zodiac, we are the architects of our own supreme reality. As we learn to uphold our lives in accordance with the love that ignites our eyes, our bodies generate the hormones we need to dissolve the barriers within of our mind to cure, physiologically, the blockages of prana, or chi, within the body. How do we begin to activate our body to naturally create the medicine we need to become the shamans we’ve always been?

To walk through dimensions as our own medicine men, to pierce the fabric of space and time as cosmic shamans, we shall dissolve the barriers that limit our minds as we regain control of the reality of our existence, for we are the creators of our experience. Our thoughts and feelings determine our sense of reality, and our reactions to external stimuli deteriorates our health prompting us to ascend by shedding our own toxicity. As we evolve through self-realization, our bodies begin to create our own medicine.

As our perceptions evolve, releasing constricting beliefs, the relaxation of our bodies allow for the natural elimination of toxins from our sensory organs to illuminate our minds with the Earth’s infinitely emanating radiance as she be-

stows upon us the peace that has always awaited her children. Unconditional acceptance allows humanity to transform behaviorally, clearing the collective psychic dread as we empower one another through the ancient techniques to cultivate the power of our minds, displacing the thorns, that we, ourselves, have placed upon our crowns. Our Mother awaits the realization of our destined fate, as lions from sheep, we awaken from collective sleep, generating a crystalline bond between our hearts in a unified force field of divine love that cannot be breached by the lower dimensional beings that walk amongst us unseen.

By muscle-testing our thoughts and feelings, we can sense physically and perceptually the neural pathways and physical circuits of resistance that deplete our vital force energy. Through mantras and positive affirmations, we can transform our words to release toxic energies held within our organs, un-conditioning the mind of the programming that paralyzes our ability to serve effectively.

By cultivating loving relationships, we receive as we give, building conduits of trust and openness where divine energy, wisdom and genius can flourish. By being true, we lift each other into the heart where we can all see the world from her most magnificent view. By exercising creative expression, we unveil aspects of ourselves that remain hidden, allowing our inner Christ to reveal a vision for our roles in the restoration of God’s Kingdom. The only source of truth we shall ever know is realized through the light we shine reflected back into our eyes as we reclaim the power of our divine flow.

THE UNBORN ONE, A REFLECTION OF THE LIGHT IN EVERYONE

There is a profound beauty to life that blossoms in depth as the barriers to one’s heart melts, allowing for life’s most subtle magnificence to be intimately felt. As healers bridge the wisdom of their hearts, the ascension of Mother Earth’s consciousness is rapidly escalating through the natural unfolding of the planetary heart chakra lotus whose beauty is fertilized by the healing of the planet’s karma. By untwisting the collective ensnarement for divine expression to naturally flow, the organic blossoming of humanity’s divinity shall restore the power of the collective mind. Through service to our soul’s fulfillment, the wisdom of our heart activates our inner vision, allowing our soul’s descent to guide us through liberation.

Who will you become, as you surrender to the unknowing abyss with certainty, accepting yourself as the magnificence of your soul’s ultimate dream?

Unconditional acceptance is the key to expressing our God-self into being, allowing for the flow of our soul expressions to guide us intuitively. Seduction by western ideal’s of success enslave us within our own insecurities to induce a deep sense of worthlessness . From this sense of undeserving, we generate self-destructive beliefs that create toxic emotions, diseasing us internally. Atrophied by despair, depressed with hopelessness, grasping for the light from others’ eyes, those conditioned to seek approval and permission to be, rather than glowing naturally, lack true purpose in their lives and grapple endlessly at the lures of seduction placed before their

sight. Filled with jealousy, envy, greed, guilt and sadness, for never having become who you truly are, in order to liberate ourselves, we must choose to rise, purging our spirit of the infection that deteriorates our minds.

The tactics of the demons who prey upon the Earth planes grow clearer to see as the Earth’s rising Schuman2 resonance activates humanity’s alpha brain wave frequency. As our Mother’s loving vibration raises our chi to restore our cellular memory, the cleared mental blocks guide us into training for the natural uprising of the cosmic serpent power to pierce through our bandhas and activate the proper rotation of our chakras and the remembrance of our Star Race history. Rising gracefully into service, magnetized by dharma and linked in purpose, as healed hearts bridge together, the greatness of man’s kingdom is bound to resurface.

Freeing our hearts, through self-transformation, our soul’s emancipation creates an avalanche of spiritual uprising that ripples through the atomic family unit, expanding into communities and gradually transforming industries

and economies. The path to unity is one without scarcity, for peace is the vibration of prosperity that activates us each into the abundance of accepting our soul’s worth, as we create the New Earth with a vision to serve.

REMEMBERING WHO YOU TRULY ARE

Transformation begins as we realize that we are divinely designed to intuitively sense our way to completeness as the embodiment of our soul’s vibration activates us through our Spiritual Ascension. From the Latin, “ascendo,” meaning to rise up, to ascend is to upregulate our genetic expression through the embodiment of our soul’s vibration. Living to experience our fullest expression through deliverance of our soul’s purpose, known as dharma in ancient sanskrit, determines our ultimate magnificence.

Driven by the love that we feel within, we activate higher vibratory quantum states that shatter our emotional lens to pierce the veil into the more illuminated, celestial states of reality. Through the process of soul emancipation, we integrate the healed aspects of our past incarnations to remember who we truly are.

Life is an eternal process of self-discovery and bliss, evolution and integration.

Techniques for spiritual emancipation guide us into empowerment, embodiment and evolution by liberating our souls’ driving force, resurrecting our will and restoring intuitive guidance to gradually transform our way of living as we herald the Earth into the Age of Enlightenment. Heaven is within the heart, and activating our heart’s intelligence to create states of heart coherence transforms the self, family, community and gradually the collective planetary consciousness. Volunteering for causes that connect us to a fuller spectrum of society, the Earth’s elemental forces, and to those who suffer needlessly, activates our chakras to empower us with universal wisdom as we mend our sense of disconnectedness. Transforming the ego personality, through spiritual and psychological modalities, develops the will through focused and determined self inner-work to expand our lightbody’s radiance. Meditation and inner reflection allow for intimate soul guidance to eradicate feelings within of self-lack to establish alignment of our

energetic centers for channels of innate wisdom and cosmic empowerment to be restored. Lastly, careers that support the upliftment of mankind, restoration of the planet’s ecosystem, and reintegration of humanity with the interplanetary cosmic field support emancipation of one’s soul through service, or seva which is Sankrit for selfless service, ascend our individual and collective intelligence for liberation of our species. Unravel the light within to resurrect your Inner Kingdom, rising to your Golden Throne as you realize Liberation.

DEFINITIONS:

Kali Yuga: meaning the age of the demon, is the last and darkest of the four world ages according to Hinduism.

Schuman resonance: is Mother Earth’s natural heartbeat rhythm, at the frequency of 7.83 Hz, which activates alpha/theta brainwave frequency in the human brain. This relaxed, dreamy, sleepy state, that is both when cell regeneration and healing happens, as well as when the mind is able to perceive beyond limited belief structures into the etheric spiritual dimensions.

FIVE GOLDEN RULES FOR BUILDING MUSCLE MASS

IF YOU’RE STRUGGLING TO MAKE SENSE OF THE TENS OF THOUSANDS OF HEALTH, FITNESS AND MUSCLE-BUILDING VIDEOS ON YOUTUBE, BODYBUILDER JOE DELANEY IS HERE TO CUT THROUGH THE NOISE.

In a recent video, Delaney shared five tips—his “golden rules”—to help you gain muscle with minimal faff.

“My whole training approach and philosophy centers around the idea that you probably get 90 to 95 percent of your progress simply from focusing on the absolute fundamentals and ensuring that you’re doing those well and consistently,” he explains. “For most people, who just want to be in good shape and want to carry on with the rest of their lives, it’s best to just focus on those aspects where you get the best return on investment on the time and effort you put in.” With that in mind, let’s get stuck in.

MAINTAINING A CALORIE SURPLUS

“First and foremost, we have to maintain a calorie surplus, because, regardless of whatever else you’re doing, how hard or often you’re training, you simply cannot magic something from nothing,” Delaney explains. “You need some calories left over to enable the muscle-building process to occur...by creating tiny tears in your muscle fibers during training, which then grow back bigger.”

SUFFICIENT VOLUME, FREQUENCY AND INTENSITY

“We can replace [the term] ‘volume’ with ‘quantity’, which is usually measured in [the] number of working sets. We can talk about weekly volume per muscle group, how many working sets you perform over the week for a particular muscle group; or total workout volume, which is how many overall sets there are in a workout,” Delaney explains. “Frequency is just how often we’re training a muscle group and, again, we tend to talk about that in the context of a week. A high-frequency training split would be one that has you hitting each muscle group often, such as a full-body split.”

“Intensity is a funny one, because it can have two meanings. Technically, it’s used to describe how heavy

the weight is in relation to your one-rep max. A heavier weight always equates to a higher intensity, regardless of how difficult the set is overall. On paper, a set of five reps with 100kg would technically be at a higher intensity than a set of, say, 25 reps with 95kg.” Delaney goes onto recommend that beginners should look at 10 sets per muscle group every week — “as many sets as you can fit in within your training split,” he says — and recommends training each body part around twice a week.

Anything more, he explains, would result in “diminishing returns.” Lastly, “if a set is too easy and you’re perfectly capable of completing it without struggling, there is no reason for your body to adapt...the sweet spot seems to be taking most of your sets between one and three sets from failure.”

ADEQUATE SLEEP AND RECOVERY

Gents, don’t be sleeping on adequate rest. “There’s a few ways that sleep, or lack thereof, can affect your ability to build muscle. First, a lack of sleep will be detrimental to your workout performance. A set that stops at two reps from failure, or what feels like it, when you’re tired and lethargic; is not worth the same as when you’re fresh and full of energy.” Delaney shared two studies (here and here) that prove deep or ‘slow-wave’ sleep is vital for muscle repair and, if sleep is inadequate, “not getting your eight hours can have a detrimental effect on your hormone levels.”

CONSISTENCY

“You can do everything that I’ve described in this video, but only do it for a week or a day on and off, you’re not going to get very far,” Delaney

explains. “Your body will adapt to the demand placed on it, but that is a consistent process, so if the demand one week is the usual five resistance training sessions, but in the following week you do zero, you’ll begin to adapt to that...your body will tip towards the average demand placed on it.”

PROGRESSIVE OVERLOAD

Lastly, as your strength and fitness progresses, Delaney stresses that you should look to progressively overload the reps you’re performing on each movement or the total weight you’re lifting. Also, “as you repeat your movements, your mobility might start to increase and you might start to use a wider, longer, or bigger range of motion,” Delaney said. “Two or three years into training, you’ll need to think about progressive overload more methodically.”

AND EXPERT WELLNESS EXERCISES

THE NEED TO GET OUT

MOVING BEYOND ESCAPISM TO THRIVE

JUSTIN "GOLIATH" JOHNSON WELLNESS CONTRIBUTOR @goliathcoaches

HE 1990S WERE A VERY DIFFERENT TIME TO BE ALIVE. IT MAY HAVE BEEN ONE OF THE MOST POLARIZING TIMES IN RECENT HISTORY, BUT ALSO A VERY DISTINCTIVE, NOSTALGIC LOVE THAT YOU COULD ONLY RELATE TO IF YOU LIVED IT.

Riding bikes, knocking on your friends’ doors to see if they could come out and play, video games that took forever to load and Saturday morning cartoons. The 90s definitely had some real issues, but it seemed like the pressure of being a human was nowhere near what it is today.

The idea of an entry-level position, staying with that company for years,

Tgrowing and going up the ladder to eventually be a manager or even executive at your job was a reality. The problems we had at work, or at school were forced to stay in their respective places because we didn’t have social media following us everywhere we went. Things have surely changed, but not all for the bad.

We don’t ride bikes and do Saturday morning cartoons anymore, but there are great advantages of the present day. Although social media seeks to record our every move, it has also provided a level of freedom that allows us to connect beyond the distant voice on a phone line. It has given us the opportunity to be our own bosses, meet people we would never meet, see so many different perspectives and see events happening all over the world in real time. Living in this era of constant connection and communication has all the quintessential attributes of the “good, bad, and ugly.” Recently, the ugly side of it all has hit hard.

Over the past three years, I’ve had four people close to me commit suicide.

As most people that have dealt with losing someone to suicide, it’s always so unexpected. The age ranges have been all under 38-years-old. I don’t remember anyone in my life before 2020 committing suicide. I don’t have any recollection of my parents talking about a friend of theirs, or a family member committing suicide. I don’t remember seeing it so blatantly on television and maybe it’s my anecdotal experience, but let’s look at the numbers.

After almost a steady decrease in suicide from 1986 to 1999, from 1999 to 2016 we have seen a 24 percent increase in suicide. Suicide among adolescents has become one of the leading causes of death for that demographic. The rate of suicide for middle-aged adults has increased as well. Three out of four of the suicides that have touched my own life were caused by firearms; the last was a deliberate drug overdose.

There are a lot of differences between the 1990s and the 2020s, but I think the one that is really crippling us is hopelessness. The hopelessness we experience is debilitating. And daily.

Waking up and knowing that your job (or jobs) not only lack fulfillment, but the bills are also piling up and unpaid. Being a full human nowadays means being a person and having a phone. If you have a phone, there’s a 99 percent chance you have some form of social media. Having social media means you don’t have to just lie to your coworkers about how you feel and how you’re doing. It also creates insurmountable pressure to lie to the entire world. The persistence of this dishonesty

can make you start believing the lies at your very core.

I like to think of 2021 as a great awakening. Covid had a huge impact on us all. Some of us didn’t make it through, and for everyone else that did, we didn’t emerge unscathed. The emotional bumps, bruises, and scars from Covid are here and showing themselves. From the fear and anxiety of being in big groups, to learning that the job you’ve worked hard for will prioritize business over you, there is a lot of Covid healing to

do. But only if we admit to its reality.

This leads me a fundamental reflection – the need to “get out.”

It started with the mass exodus of Covid with people leaving their jobs or being laid off and not wanting to return to work. We started to live life for what we truly found important. It meant embracing family and friends, and in seeing new things and prioritizing our mental health as new priorities for life after

2020. This was a beautiful realization and “seemed” like the new woke path.

The problem with this new way of living was that at the moment when personal fulfillment seemed a paramount consideration, the cost of living soared and the economical need for us to be working didn’t respond to our innermost needs. We have been stuck in this rat race, chasing our tail and living to work versus working to live. And now we are seeing a lot of these aspirations come

COACHING AND EXPERT WELLNESS EXERCISES

THE NEED TO GET OUT

MOVING BEYOND ESCAPISM TO THRIVE

crashing down. Individual entrepreneurs and small business owners are struggling to survive, where emergent ideas are failing to materialize, where capital is running low, or where just running out of motivation has become the reality.

How do you give up your dream and go back to your nightmare? That’s a difficult feat and this is happening to people that bear the traumas of existing systems that have long prioritized the rat race. We are being taught to run, to hide, and to do anything to avoid the problems in our world. That doesn’t leave a lot of options to get out of your current circumstances. The reality of getting completely “out” when you are miserable in your current life seems to

be leading to these increases in literally ending life. The isolation and “get it done” or “figure it out” mentality is creating a sense of shame for people that legitimately need help. If we are going to be completely honest, none of us truly do it on our own. There was a friend, a teacher, a family member, or even a compassionate stranger that can be pointed to as contributing at least a bit to our success. If that person had not made that statement to me at that perfect time, I wouldn’t have kept going.

The last point I want to lean on is our desire to be God versus drawing energy from God. It does not matter what you call God – the Universe, Mother Earth, Buddha, Allah or even Science. The need to have something else above us

to attribute some of the unfortunate things that happen in life seems innate and this can help us not take everything so personally.

Often, I will be walking through my house and turn a corner too close and run my shoulder into the wall. I’ll look at the wall and might even say “Damn thing just jumped out at me” as if the wall isn’t exactly in that same place every day. What that does for our psyche is not making ourselves the fault for everything all the time.

The everyday challenge of living life comes with much pressure. So many things are blamed on us and having the idea of a higher power allows us to soften the blow sometimes.

I know it’s hard outside. Trust me, it’s hard for me as well. But we can do it. And while sometimes it feels like life’s challenges are only falling upon you, I can assure you, the people you think have it all figured out have just become better actors than you. They have learned to cope, accommodate, and to continue on.

Don’t try to get out. Escapism, empowered by today’s social media pressures to put on your best face, is merely a delay in dealing with the reality that is life itself. Instead, get into the game. As my previous manager used to tell me, “You got to be like a duck and just let the water roll off your back.” And while I once despised that simple statement, now I understand it. And embrace it.