Polo Lifestyles October 2019 - The Fashion Issue

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OPEN DE FRANCE DE POLO · OPEN DE FRANCE FEMININ · NEWPORT POLO PRO-AM · EAST COAST OPEN

THE

FASHION ISSUE

J.LO WINS MILAN FASHION FINISHES SECOND "LIKING" A RUNWAY LOOK IN REAL TIME TOP TEN NYFW SHOWS ONE NIGHT ONLY: RALPH'S CLUB

LA DOLCE VITA AT VENICE FILM FESTIVAL

THE WORLD'S RICHEST HORSE RACE HOTTEST MENSWEAR FROM PARIS SATURN'S MESSING WITH YOU

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FERRAGAMO

Ambassador Claude-Alix Bertrand Publisher

Joshua Jakobitz Editor-in-Chief

Mark Wine

Fitness Columnist

Joey Velez

Wellness Columnist

Cezar Kusik

Wine Contributor

Raphael Dapaah

Style Contributor

Kenneth Carrion de los Condes Lifestyles Contributor

Michael J. Snell

Lifestyles Contributor

Kemissa Racine

Style Contributor

Hans Ebenman

Travel Contributor

Claire Barrett

Art Contributor

Head of Photography

Jyoti Paintel

William Smith Philanthropy Contributor

Spiritual Guidance Contributor

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Stanley Pierre-Etienne

Gregory Bertrand

Assistant Copy Intern Brand Representatives Anne-Isabelle Saint-Pierre - Dubai Rudy Volel - New York Michael J. Snell - The Hamptons Stanley Pierre-Etienne - Caribbean Sara Ali - London Contributing Photographers Claire Barrett Eva Espresso

Candace Ferriera Kevin M. Bernard Pascale Renauldon Polo Lifestyles is a publication of HT Polo Publishing Co. 995 Detroit Avenue, Suite A Concord, CA 94518

Copyright Š Polo Lifestyles 2019 All Rights Reserved.

For information or to advertise Contact editor@pololifestyles.com Read online at www.pololifestyles.com Cover Photo Jennifer Lopez for Paper Magazine Photographed by Ellen von Unwerth Styling by Rob Zangardi and Mariel Haenn Hair by Lorenzo Martin Makeup by Scott Barnes Nails by Tom Bachik Location: The Axis at Planet Hollywood Resort & Casino

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New Mexico Polo Club Polo Lifestyles Santa Fe International Polo Open Guards Polo Club Autumn Nations Tournament Polo de Paris Tournoi de la Ville de Paris 125th Open de Paris Ghantoot Polo & Racing Club British Polo Day Polo Club du Domaine de Chantilly Castel Trophy Inanda Polo Club Inanda High Goal Rosefield Polo Club Africa Polo Open Thai Polo & Equestrian Club Argentine Embassy Cup Thailand Eq. Federation Cup Thai Polo Open Al Habtoor Polo Club UAE National Day Cup Sir Winston Churchill Cup Val de Vie Estate Pink for Polo Cuatro Vientos Polo Club XV Copa Tanoira Argentine Season 52o San Jorge Open 55o Abierto de Jockey Club Xtreme Polo League 79o Abierto de Tortugas 126o Abierto de Hurlingham 126o Abierto de Argentina

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SCOREBOARDS & COCKTAILS:

GREENWICH'S SWANKY EAST COAST OPEN page 70 POLO LIFESTYLES EDITORS & CONTRIBUTORS

Ambassador Claude-Alix Bertrand

Publisher Polo Lifestyles @haiti_polo_captain

Cezar Kusik

Wine Contributor Polo Lifestyles @cezareatsdirt

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Josh Jakobitz

Editor-in-Chief Polo Lifestyles @joshuajakobitz

Kenneth Carrion

Kemissa Racine Style Contributor Polo Lifestyles @kemissa

Joey Velez

Lifestyles Contributor Mental Wellness Columnist De Los Condes Velez Mental Performance @deloscondes_inspired_living @velezmentalhealth

Mark Wine

Jyoti Paintel

Fitness Columnist Functional Muscle Fitness @functionalmuscle

Spiritual Contributor Polo Lifestyles @jyotipaintel

Michael J. Snell

Stanley Pierre-Etienne

Lifestyles Contributor MJS Groupe @agnello_1

Style Contributor Lanmou Pou Ranyon @stanleypierretienne

Raphael Dapaah Art Contributor Dapaah Gallery @dapaahgallery

William Smith

Philanthropy Contributor Santa Fe Comm. Foundation @willismith_2000

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La Dolce Vita at Venice Film Festival page 120

The World's Richest Horse Race page 92

The connected catwalk at your fingertips page 162

The Wonder of Wine: Harvest Season page 166

PASSION FOR FASHION

From New York to Milan, the winners, the major spenders, the most memorable moments and a critical look at the sustainability of catwalks. page 108 page 15

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Welcome to our second fashion issue, weighing at nearly three pounds if you’re holding it physically at 204 pages.

When we started laying out the sections and planning the cover, we looked back at the 2018 Fashion Issue for inspiration. With such a striking cover of the woman warrior in haute couture face-to-face with an equally stunning horse profile, our job immediately became to source a cover photo that upped the ante. The moment that J. Lo stole the show (and, as indicated on the cover, won Milan) at Versace, we knew it would be the age-defying Jennifer Lopez who inspired the entire Fashion Issue.

To be honest with you, women’s fashion wasn’t my forte coming into this job. I had, naturally, followed men’s fashion (albeit I was more interested in the ready-to-wear side than the slightly impractical couture of Thom Browne and others) and considered myself versed in the pronunciation of the French and Italian menswear designers. If I stay in the men’s section of Neiman Marcus, I could safely converse with any associate or buyer. My introduction to women’s haute couture and ready-to-wear designers was a crash course in a whole new world: Proenza Schouler, Moschino, Martin Margiela and Prabal Gurung topped my list. Luckily, I had a good mentor and I was a quick study.

This year, the style team has assembled the most jawdropping, fashion-forward and inspirational shows and collections into one extended fashion section. My most sincere gratitude goes to the style team who burned the midnight oil either in-person or via social media to bring constant content to the editor’s desk, up until the last minute.

They faced WiFi challenges in Milan, a power outage at the Port-au-Prince airport, rain in Paris, venue labor union regulations in Los Angeles and a brave few nearly starved to death in New York (notably, Pyer Moss served food – actual food – at his outstanding show; everything else was drinks and canapes).

This year’s Fashion Issue is a complete look at emerging global fashion trends; the looks that will take us from the runway to the VIP tents of polo matches, F1 rooftop viewing parties, yachts and villas somewhere sunny, glamorous cocktails parties and meetings with partners, event sponsors and advertisers. “Oh, I just love what you’re wearing!”

“Thanks, I saw it in Polo Lifestyles.”

Best, Josh Jakobitz josh@pololifestyles.com

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moschino Moschino's SS2020 show brought Picasso's paintings to life on the catwalk at #milanfashionweek

masterclass Learn how to lead from Editor-inChief of Vogue and AD of Conde Nast Anna Wintour

the_real_iman Venice Film Festival in Maison Valentino by @pppiccioli jewelry by @chopard #venezia76 page 22

bazaaruk

fashiontothemax

The actual residence of the set of Downton Abbey is now listed on AirBnB #highclerecastle

@versace SS2020 show closed with a surprise ending @jlo in her 2000 Versace custom creation

polointernationalaustralia Super style at Windsor Polo Club in Australia #purepolo photo credit @loveprint_polo

polokinggame Beta version of Polo King game created for polo players by an expolo player; coming soon #appstore

thedannylockwood The principle of "radial self-reliance" is no joke in the 90+ F degree heat of Black Rock City

sothebysjewel The Fine Jewels Sale in NYC with over 300 pieces ranging from $1,500 to $475,000

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Click and comment on our choices... tag @pololifestyles.

We will share noteworthy comments with you next month.

federacionandaluzadepolo Sand polo played in the museum district of Amsterdam captured and posted by F.A. Polo in Sevilla

ralphlauren Janelle Monae delivered a tour de force performance of jazz standards and original songs #ralphsclub

jimmychoo Long boot season is here, keep it chic with MAHESA boots featuring signature JC emblem

iphone11news All the colorful versions of the iPhone 11 from @apple along with more news, leaks and information

iamtico "Blessed to start another chapter in this cycle called LIFE" suit by @garconcouture @mrgilly87

townandcountrymag From sleepy drama to runaway hit, #downtonabbey garnered 69 Emmy nominations during its run

mariotestino "I loved shooting Lizzo... she really impressed me. I loved her personal style and music." - Mario Testino

telegraph Scientists discovered a "world first" on a distant planet with water and temperatures to support life

rupaulsdragrace The whole team of #DragRace accepted the win for Outstanding Reality-Competition Program #emmy page 23

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OPEN DE FRANCE PAPREC POLO CLUB DU DOMAINE DE CHANTILLY

FINAL: MARQUES DE RISCAL (ESP) 7 / 6 MARQUARD MEDIA (SUI) SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 22

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O P E N D E F R A N C E PA P R E C

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O P E N D E F R A N C E PA P R E C

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WOMEN'S OPEN DE FRANCE POLO CLUB DU DOMAINE DE CHANTILLY

FINAL: DS AUTOMOBILES ST MAXIMIN 7 / 5 HYATT REGENCY CHANTILLY SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 22

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OPEN DE FRANCE FEMININ

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OPEN DE FRANCE FEMININ

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REDEFINING THE BENTLEY GRAND TOUR FOR 2035 Inspiring an extraordinary human experience through a perfect blend of technology and craftsmanship.

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NEWPORT POLO page 42

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NEWPORT POLO New England Pro-Am USA 8 / 5 New Zealand

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NEW ENGLAND PRO-AM

THE CHAMPIONSHIPS, WIMBLEDON All England Club

Men's Singles: Novak Djokovic Women's Singles: Simona Halep

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NEW ENGLAND PRO-AM

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76TH VENICE FILM FESTIVAL

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VENICE FILM FESTIVAL

Scarlett Johansson, Joaquin Phoenix, Ruth Negga, and more gather to kick off awards season on the Lido.

In the last decade or so, the Venice International Film Festival, now in its 76th year, has become the crucial first stopping point for big movies aiming at awards glory. What’s been brought to the Lido—the beachy island just east of Venice’s main tangle of canals and narrow streets—in those years has been a rich panoply of prestige film.

Arriving at premieres by boat isn’t just fashionable, it’s practical. Of course, stars like Nicholas Hoult (whose next film, True History of the Kelly Gang, will premiere in Toronto this year), don’t travel on the slow-chugging vaporetto (water bus) like the badge-wearing hoi polloi on their way to press screenings. No, for the glitterati it’s all about private taxis, most of them beautiful wood-sided motorboats. They’ll take you to the Sala Grande for a film, or to page 54

one of the luxe hotels (the Excelsior on the Lido, the Aman on the main island) that have exclusive boat entrances. It’s glamorous enough to be gliding across the lagoon with the spires of Venice behind you—but to be doing it on a private vessel? Fantastico.

The Venice film festival exists to honor the art form of cinema, of course, but it’s also a celebration of Italy, of its people, its food, its fashion. To that end, you see tasteful branding throughout the festival area: a Ferrari logo here, an elaborate Campari stand there. (Indeed, Campari spritzes are second only to Aperol spritzes as the most ubiquitous quaff in Venice.) And then you have Cate Blanchett—a 2007 Volpi Cup winner for sorta playing Bob Dylan in I’m Not There—at the festival this year as an ambassador for Armani, the fashion and lifestyle brand that is one of the great prides of Europe’s beautiful boot.

Blanchett may not be a native Italian,

but she wears an Armani suit like one.

Venice is also a festival that’s become a reliable launching pad for the surer bets – in previous years Birdman, Gravity, The Shape of Water, Roma, and La La Land all debuted – although this year’s crop offered up a more mixed bag than usual.

The biggest story came from an unlikely place: a DC movie from The Hangover director Todd Phillips. Grimy origins tale Joker would have arrived with a question mark no matter where it landed but playing in competition at arguably the most prestigious film festival in the world, it was an even wilder curio, the highest profile slot a comic book movie has ever snagged. Reviews were mostly rapturous, especially for star Joaquin Phoenix in the lead, and it went on to win the festival’s biggest prize, the Golden Lion, one of only six American films to do so in the last 30 years. At this stage, we’d bet heavily on a nomination

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VENICE FILM FESTIVAL

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VENICE FILM FESTIVAL

and even a win for Phoenix, but the film might struggle to sustain itself with voters who might be repelled by its subject matter and one-note vacuity.

After winning last year’s Golden Lion with Roma, Netflix returned with their second Noah Baumbach project, the bitpage 58

tersweet divorce drama Marriage Story.

It was met with universal acclaim (after both Venice and Toronto, it’s one of the rare films to sustain a 100% rating on Rotten Tomatoes) and while Baumbach’s films haven’t typically scored with the Academy (his one nomination was in 2006 for the screenplay of The Squid

and the Whale), most agreed that this was his finest and most expansive film to date.

Nominations for stars Adam Driver and Scarlett Johansson, both on career-best form, seem like sure things while Laura Dern’s eye-catching turn as

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a tenacious lawyer should also snag her a supporting actress nod, thanks largely to a powerful speech she gives on how society judges mothers. There’s a lot going for it (it’s also set in the entertainment industry which voters love) but it feels like the kind of film which might not seem splashy or important enough

for the Academy to give its top prize to although I can see it scoring with a lot of critics circles.

There were also polite reviews for James Gray’s long-gestating space epic Ad Astra and Steven Soderbergh’s financial satire The Laundromat but both

were commonly seen as awards race non-starters.

With reporting from Vanity Fair and The Guardian

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VENICE FILM FESTIVAL

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ASPEN VALLEY

WORLD POLO LEAGUE TRIPLE CROWN AUDI 12 / 11FLEXJET

It may have taken two chukkers, but the World Polo League Triple Crown of Polo season-finale lived up to expectations Sunday at McClure River Ranch.

(Melissa Ganzi, Salvador Ulloa, Nacho Novillo Astrada, Juan Bollini) from start-to-finish but Flexjet made them work for it in the final chukker.

Audi (Marc Ganzi, Mariano Gracida, Nic Roldan, Juancito Bollini) led Flexjet

On a perfect day for polo, Audi held on for a thrilling 12-11 victory to win the

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coveted trophy and its second consecutive tournament of the summer polo season. Audi also won the Labor Day Challenge with Lauren Sherry, Salvador Ulloa, Roldan and Ganzi.

Roldan, the highest rated American

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HUBLOT POLO GOLD CUP

player at eight goals, had one of his best games of his career with his big scoring hits and relentless defense and was the unanimous choice for Most Valuable Player.

The Aspen Valley Polo Club Best Playing Pony went to Tampa Glitter played by Mariano Gracida. page 66

The American Polo Horse Association Best Playing Pony was Pitkin, played by Alejandro Novillo Astrada.

The American Polo Horse Association was created in 2006 by the legendary Polo Hall of Famer Sunny Hale to recognize polo ponies in America and encourages events that showcase them and

hard-working dedication of grooms.

“What a game today’s final was,” WPL Commissioner Dale Smicklas said. “It was everything we hoped it would be.

There was a five-goal difference early in the game and we kept saying it didn’t mean much and the game ended up going down to the final seconds.

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For Flexjet, Novillo Astrada had a game-high eight goals. Melissa Ganzi had three goals including one in the sixth chukker.

Audi, playing well on both ends of the field, jumped out to a 5-1 lead in the opening chukker and 6-2 advantage after two chukkers. page 67

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GREENWICH POLO CLUB

EAST COAST OPEN FINAL POSTAGE STAMP FARM 12 / 10 MONTEROSSO

Emerging undefeated through bracket play, Postage Stamp Farm (PSF) rose to the top of the leader board, Monterosso the only team standing between them and the Perry Trophy.

Competing for the East Coast Open Final on Sunday, September 8, at Greenwich Polo Club in Greenwich, Connecticut, both teams fought with sustained intensity to keep the score page 70

within two goals. Edging out their opponents after a strong second half, PSF ended the tournament 12-10, redeeming their 2018 semifinal defeat.

Kicking off the final with three consecutive Penalty 2 conversions, Brandon Phillips’ accuracy quickly eliminated Monterosso’s one-goal handicap advantage. Trading goals throughout the first chukker, both

teams were eager to set the pace early with PSF leading 4-3. Working together to shut down PSF’s system, Monterosso prevented their opponents from scoring in the second.

Approaching halftime, penalty shots proved to be crucial to both teams.

Adding back-to-back conversions to the tally, Ignacio “Cubi” Toccalino moved Monterosso into the lead for the first time, ending the third 6-5.

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forward, Zubiaurre smacked it out of the air and over the backline. Conceding victory in the final moments of play, Monterosso fell to the undefeated team 12-10.

“All five teams were very strong and I think this was one of the most competitive East Coast Open seasons we’ve played,” Phillips said. “The new teams brought many top players like Bartolome Castagnola, Nachi Du Plessis and Cubi Toccalino to the area for the first time. We [Postage Stamp Farm] knew we needed a lot of luck and to play every game well in order to win. So, to be able to beat those guys makes this win even better.”

Playing with the same team in 2018, Gundlach expressed the significance of this win and her team’s perseverance. “It’s wonderful to come back this year and go all the way! The final was a battle from start to finish, but in the end our game plan reigned supreme.

I’m honored to even be on the field with them, and we are all thrilled to have our names engraved in polo history on a storied trophy!”

Returning to the field in the fourth with a clear objective, Postage Stamp implemented an effective offensive attack, allowing them to regain and keep their lead until the end. Countering the opening penalty conversion from Toccalino, PSF fired back with three consecutive goals, two off the mallet of Lerin Zubiaurre. Scoring the only Monterosso goal in the fifth, Alessandro Bazzoni’s effort to equalize the scoreboard would be short-lived as Tomas

Garcia del Rio added two more to end the chukker 10-8 in favor of PSF. In the final chukker, Garcia del Rio widened the gap with his fifth goal of the game putting added pressure on Monterosso who secured another set of two from Toccalino to keep it close. Down by one 11-10 Monterosso was in position to steal the win, but PSF’s Zubiaurre gained control of a loose ball which players overrode.

Seizing the opportunity to carry the ball

Best Playing Pony honors were presented to Los Machitos Ikana, a mare played by Lerin Zubiaurre in a few minutes of the second, three minutes in the fifth and one minute in the sixth chukker. “I bought her from Los Machitos last year in Florida, but this is the first year I played her at Greenwich Polo Club,” Zubiaurre said.

“She arrived last year from Argentina and played a bit in Greenwich, but this is her first big season.” page 71

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GREENWICH POLO CLUB

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URUS

#SINCEWEMADEITPOSSIBLE

A super sports car soul and the functionality typical for an SUV: this is Lamborghini Urus, the world’s first Super Sport Utility Vehicle

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THE BRIDGE

THE HAMPTONS' MOST EXCLUSIVE TICKET

HIGH SOCIETY

MICHAEL J. SNELL @agnello_1 Lifestyles Contributor

T

his year marked the much anticipated, fourth annual event of the Hamptons season.

The Bridge returned to the private and extremely exclusive golf club which boasts a $1 million a year membership. Set on site of the historic Bridgehampton Race Circuit and paying tribute to the club’s racing heritage, this invite-only event had guests clamoring to see over 250 collector cars of all shapes and sizes. Everything from classic European sports racing cars to tomorrow’s supercar

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classics alongside the “September Art Show” curated by Marlborough Contemporary’s Max Levai, was organized on the final fairway combining art and automotive seamlessly.

Luxury brands and automakers alike used this exclusive opportunity to do something unrivaled for this carefully curated, hand-picked audience. A variety of installations, product debuts and displays were installed for attendees while presenting sponsor, Richard Mille, showcased the brand’s newest cutting-edge timepieces for both men and women. Lamborghini made quite an entrance as they opened The Bridge IV programming with a stunning 20

supercar Lamborghini parade, with Lamborghini CEO of the Americas Alessandro Farmeschi on-hand to welcome the owners.

Guests at the exclusive event enjoyed a sunny afternoon sipping fine wines selected by prestige wine and spirits provider, Sherry-Lehmann, and enjoying gourmet bites from Smorgasburg.

Bugatti of the Americas celebrated their rich, unparalleled history marking their 110-year anniversary with an elegant display of historic models. At the same time, Aston Martin made the official East Coast debut of the Valhalla with President of Aston Martin Americas Laura Schwab

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doing the unveiling. Along with the unveilings, Automobili Pininfarina CEO Michael Perschke presented the brand’s limited-edition, hand-built hyper GT, the Battista to the crowd.

fastest car. The Agera RS. NetJets wowed the event’s attendees by exhibiting a full-sized mock-up of the new Cessna Longitude Jet, allowing guests to take a tour of the luxury liner.

Other notable participants include Overfinch North America, who showcased a selection of their Supercharged Range Rovers alongside Koenigsegg displaying their waitlisted Jesko, which happens to be the world’s

Also, among the exciting participants, Triton Submarines joined the event after completing the last dive of five to the bottom of each of the world’s oceans, displaying their Triton 1650/3 LP, one of the world’s lightest

and most compact submersibles ever produced.

The art fair component was organized

by Max Levai, Pascal Spengemann and Suzanne Butler and featured Lars Fisk-designed custom-built art pavilions. The design of the art show mimicked a small village and included 10 curated pavilions arranged throughout the dunes and seamlessly integrated with the displayed vehicles. page 77

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HIGH SOCIETY

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THE BRIDGE, BRIDGEHAMPTON

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2019 EMMY AWARDS SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 22

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2019 EMMY AWARDS page 84

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2019 EMMY AWARDS

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2019 EMMY AWARDS

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SAUDI ARABIA WILL HOST

THE WORLD’S RICHE$T RACE IN 2020

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SAUDI ARABIA WILL HOST

THE WORLD’S RICHE$T RACE

King Abdul Aziz Racetrack in Riyadh

IN 2020

The world has a new richest horse race, with the announcement of the creation of the $20 million Saudi Cup, at KING ABDUL AZIZ RACETRACK in Riyadh in 2020.

Prince Bandar bin Khalid Al-Faisal, chairman of the Jockey Club of Saudi Arabia, announced details of the contest at a launch event in Saratoga, New York.

With a free entry fee, the race will be run on dirt over a distance of nine page 94

furlongs (1,800 meters) and will have a maximum field of 14 starters. There will be a prize of $10 million for the winning horse and horses down to 10th place will share another $10 million between them.

“The introduction of the SAUDI CUP as an international race is, without doubt, the most significant event in the history of horse racing in Saudi Arabia, and demonstrates our resolve to develop this great sport in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, and also our ambition to become a leading

player on horse racing’s world stage,” said Prince Bandar.

“We look forward to welcoming international horsemen and women, the media, racing enthusiasts and the public to Riyadh in 2020.” The SAUDI CUP will take place four weeks after the PEGASUS WORLD CUP at Gulfstream Park, Fla., and four weeks prior to the DUBAI WORLD CUP. The top horses in training have the opportunity to compete in all three of the most valuable dirt races in the world: the PEGASUS WORLD CUP,

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Prince Bandar bin Khalid Al-Faisal, chairman of the Jockey Club of Saudi Arabia.

with a peak value of $16 million in 2018, and the DUBAI WORLD CUP with a current worth of $12 million.

In terms of turf races, the richest is in Australia (the EVEREST) and is worth $9.8 million. While in Japan, the mark is $6 million for the JAPAN CUP. Europe’s most lucrative event, the PRIX DE L’ARC DE TRIOMPHE, has a prize fund of $5.6 million.

Prince Bandar has an emotional connection to horses. Less than a century ago, his great grandfather King Abdul Aziz, a renowned rider and the founding father of modern Saudi Arabia, led his army into battle on horseback, earning himself the title “The Last Horseman.”

In 1932, King Abdul Aziz unified the kingdoms of Nejd and Hijaz, creating the sovereign state of Saudi Arabia.

Horse racing soon became an important cultural event in the young nation.

Its status was enhanced in 2003 with the opening of the King Abdul Aziz Racetrack, with a 2,000-meter circumference, a three-furlong (600-meter) chute and a state-of-the-art dirt racing surface.

Many of the world’s leading jockeys have ridden regularly at the racetrack, and have been impressed with its facilities.

“I’ve been going to King Abdul Aziz Racetrack ever since it opened … Of all the dirt tracks I’ve ridden, it’s the one I like best as you can win from the front and you can win from behind — it’s a fair track,” said Europe’s jockey of the moment, Frankie Dettori.

“The other thing I like is that the kickback is so much less than on other dirt tracks. I don’t know why, but the sand seems finer and doesn’t stick. You only need a couple of pairs of goggles, where on other tracks you

need four or five. It’s a kinder track that I can see turf horses handling.”

US jockey Edgar Prado said, “In my experience, all the time I rode at King Abdul Aziz Racetrack, I’ve found it good and safe with a nice stretch run.

Horses handle it very well.”

France’s four-time champion jockey Olivier Peslier said, “King Abdul Aziz Racetrack is one of the best dirt tracks in the world — a wonderful track.

And I know that the American jockeys like it very much because it really suits the American horses. It has a long straight, and there isn’t much kickback.”

The Jockey Club of Saudi Arabia will arrange and fund the shipment of all invited horses, including the cost of flights and hotel accommodation of the horses’ connections. In addition to the SAUDI CUP, there will be further international races on the undercard ahead of the showcase race. page 95

VOLUME III / ISSUE X / OCTOBER 2019

LOS ANGELES OPERA MAKING A GRAND

ENTRANCE

ON OPENING NIGHT

by Kenneth Carrion de los Condes Lifestyles contributor, @deloscondes_inspired_living Photos by Claire Barrett Head of photography @clairebarrettphoto

My father introduced me to opera at a young age when he played his collection on Sundays. He kept his prized vinyl records in several beautiful, black-velvet lined boxes—his favorite record being Carmen.

Once I met my husband, I began purchasing my season tickets for two instead of one, keeping the same two seats in the Founders Circle, alongside many of the long-time patrons and donors.

On Sundays, when my mother took my two younger brothers and me to church, my father listened to opera with the stereo volume turned up so loudly that he had to remove paintings from the walls because of the strong vibrations.

The Chandler’s original palette of emerald green and burgundy remains the same. A French tapestry from the 18th century, depicting an equestrian scene, looms over the bar, but my favorite pieces are the Venetian glass chandeliers.

It wasn’t until I went to my first live opera—Puccini’s Turandot—at the Met that I started to have a greater appreciation for the music. Even though I listened to a variety of opera songs for years, the full magnificence of the opera did not hit home until I experienced the dramatic sets and costume designs.

For almost 20 years, I have attended the Los Angeles Opera at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion. page 98

I have always been fascinated by the Founder’s Room here at the Los Angeles Opera. Not because of its history or beauty; rather, I am obsessed with its exclusivity.

The Founders Room has hosted many famous figures, including Grace Kelly and Emperor Hirohito of Japan. In 1983, it even entertained Queen Elizabeth II. As they entered the reception, legend has it that Chandler turned to the queen and said, “Welcome to my palace.” Founder’s Room

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LAVISH LIFESTYLES A COLUMN BY KENNETH CARRION THAT YOUR CONCIERGE WILL LOVE TO HATE

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LAVISH LIFESTYLES

membership privileges even extend to the Founder’s Rooms at the Walt Disney Concert Hall and Ahmanson Theatre.

Happily, I have been able to repay my parents for introducing me to the opera and the arts. Since they retired to California from Connecticut a few years ago, they accompany me once page 100

opera season begins and always to the splendor of opening night. I especially enjoy surprising my mother each year by presenting her with a beautiful evening gown and all the accessories.

welcoming feeling when the bartender, after so many years, can greet you by your surname. But, for me, it is very much about the fashion when I attend opening night.

We like to have a pre-show martini at the black marble bar. With its original 1964 decor and elegant, hip-again Mad Men-esque style, it is always a

Los Angeles is a casual city. So, even though a formal dress code is not enforced (I have even witnessed a gentleman wearing a tank top, flip

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LAVISH LIFESTYLES "I have always been fascinated by the Founder's Room at the Los Angeles Opera.

Not because of it's history or beauty; rather, I AM OBSESSED WITH ITS EXCLUSIVITY." - Kenneth Carrion de los Condes

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LAVISH LIFESTYLES flops and shorts), it is wonderful to see many taking pride and showing respect when attending the opera in more suitable attire.

It is honestly one of my favorite evenings of the year, the one legitimate excuse for me to don a tuxedo, walk the red carpet, and enjoy an elegant and cultured evening with

other like-minded guests. I love to see passionate red, jewel-colored taffeta, metallic drapery, and other equally elegant materials often reserved for the catwalk. The drama of the opera and couture seem to be a perfect match.

signers like Prada, Ford, Armani, and Lacroix, to name a few.

In the past couple of decades, it has been amazing to see world-renowned operas costumed by well-known de-

UK Sunday Times 1995

“It’s called creative tension, and it is what happens when the worlds of opera and fashion collide!”

The author, Kenneth Carrion de los Condes, with his guest and mother, Jovita Carrion, at the opening night of the Los Angeles Opera this year.

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THE FASHION LUX AFRIQUE POLO

SS 2020 THE SIZZLING SHOWS & SWANKIEST LOOKS

{ page 108

J.LO WINS MILAN NYFW TOP 10 SHOWS RALPH'S CLUB SS2020 ROUND-UP WHAT MONEY CAN BUY IN NEW YORK MORE THAN A RUNWAY SHOW EVERYTHING'S IN THE DETAILS PARIS MENSWEAR COUTURE Stories by Stanley Pierre-Etienne, Constance White and Keith Richard Photos by Eva Thompson and The Impression

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ISSUE

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J. LO WINS MILAN

(FASHION FINISHES SECOND) The moment that ate Milan Fashion Week occurred at the end of the Versace show.

People had been promised a special something, but no one knew what it was. The lights went down, a soundtrack crescendo began to build, and then — Jennifer Lopez! Age 50! In a new version of the jungle print dress she wore to the Grammys in 2000.

You know, the one that was cut down to her navel and up to her crotch, and set off so many digital searches back in the day that, in the myth of the Internet and fashion, it is said Google created image search because of it (a more plausible version of the story is that it was part of the reason; a big part, sure, but still — a part).

The dress had been given a bit of an update, to be sure — less fabric on the sides, the sleeves were gone, there were jewels all over the matching bikini bottoms, and iridescent palm fronds bristled like epaulets on the shoulders. But those were details; the effect was the same.

Bags were clutched. The whole audience rose as one. Phones came out and were wielded like knives, each one slicing off a section of her walk for the posting.

Mea culpa. But if ever there was a finale that crystallized just how much fashion had moved on — or not — since the turn of the millennium, that was it.

Back in the day, of course, there was no Instagram or live stream; people mostly viewed shows with their actual eyes as opposed to through the lens of their tiny cameras; designers only did two collections a year (or two we knew of); editors and glossy magazines still served as the conduits of choice for fashion information; diversity was pretty much nonexispage 110

tent; and even if fashion people had read “Silent Spring” in school, they probably thought it had nothing to do with them, or their jobs.

from 20 years ago — still rules. That’s as stultifying and frustrating as it sounds, even if it’s justified as “heritage” or “DNA.”

It is tempting to say: How things have changed! Except for Ms. Lopez of course; she looked exactly the same. If anything, more toned and worked out.

Think about it this way: the day of the global climate strike, which also happened to be the day of the Versace show, when hundreds of thousands took to the roads of New York and Berlin and Sydney, in Milan it was just traffic as usual.

"The dress had been given an update, to be sure — less fabric on the sides, the sleeves were gone, there were jewels all over the matching bikini bottoms, and iridescent palm fronds bristled like epaulets on the shoulders. But those were details; the effect was the same. Bags were clutched. The whole audience rose as one.

Phones came out and were wielded like knives, each one slicing off a section of her walk for the posting."

“Is there going to be a protest here?” visitors asked. Locals raised their eyebrows and shrugged. Later, there was some anticipation around the fact Giorgio Armani called his show “Earth” — but it turned out to be because it was inspired by the muddy colors of the land (dank browns, midnight blues), gradually lightening to morning mists.

But then, so did most of Donatella Versace’s clothes: the sharp-shouldered little black coat dresses with big gold hardware; the jersey draped to show slices of side abs; the tie-dyed Medusa tees; the cobalt-and-jade or fire opal-spinel jungle print on pretty much everything from jeans jackets to sequined evening frocks fringed at the hem and dotted with spiky, three-dimensional alien blooms.

Trousers were pleated at the hip and narrow at the calf or palazzo loose.

Jackets were long or short, curving or boxy. Skirts were long and billowing, often sheer. There were some sporty references, a banana palm print and a fair amount of pastel sparkle. In the end, two models came out in glistening evening columns, torsos encased in stiff ruffled organza shells; each woman had one arm supporting her opposite elbow, which was cocked up and out to the side as if holding a cigarette en pose. Except, this being 2019, the hand was empty. That’s a metaphor, if anyone cared to contemplate it.

Which suggest the real takeaway is plus ça change, and all that. The fashion landscapes in New York and London may finally be in the throes of their own upheavals; the altered shapes of social and political life, a new balance of power, reflected in an evolution on the catwalk.

But in Milan, the status quo — the one

Meanwhile, at the Missoni show, dedicated to summer and held around a giant public swimming pool, Angela Missoni gave every guest a mini Olafur Eliasson solar lamp with the message: “Join us in holding hands with the sun, we are at a crucial point for our planet and need to take action.”

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Subscribe to POLO LIFESTYLES TO RECEIVE A DELUXE PRINTED MAGAZINE EACH MONTH IT'S THE PERFECT GIFT OR BEAUTIFUL ADDITION TO YOUR COFFEE TABLE

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VOLUME III / ISSUE X / OCTOBER 2019

THE FASHION ISSUE

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

TOP 10 SHOWS

10 – JASON WU COLLECTION Jason Wu’s dedication to craftsmanship was on full display this season in a botanical homage to femininity. There is an organic hand at work underneath the surface that respects the roots of fashion: form. In a crop of collections shaped by pattern-making his knowledge of drapery has produced seasonal fresh flowers.

9 – BRANDON MAXWELL ‘Most Improved’ goes to Brandon Maxwell for what The Impression believes is his strongest and most elevated collections to date. Maxwell’s earlier work reminds us of Isaac Mizrahi, full of praise by the powers that be but underneath that surface of support wasn’t a foundation for love of craft and design that could carry it for the longterm. This season, the designer showed an elevation that looks promising for the marathon. page 114

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8 – COACH 1941 There is a subtle irony to watching a European designer produce the most American of collections. But since taking the realm at Coach, creative Stuart Vevers has done just that. This season the artisan stripped down the pallet from boho-chic to embrace the 80s as he turns what is a large ship.

Sharp turns are often hard to digest, think Alessandro Michele for Gucci, where here it feels on course for what we imagine will be reinforced by the forthcoming European collections.

7 – SIES MARJAN Another European who spins Americana is Sander Lak at Sies Marjan. Convert his collection to darker hues and it reads Parisian, but embrace his boldness of primaries and he spins American classicism in a new direction that feels postmodern. We often wonder what Michael Kors thinks of the collection.

6 – R13 Chris Leba is carving out his own path devoid of the influences of others. He is New York’s most punk of designers whose work draws us in season after season. The mashup of skate punk with The Velvet Underground, with animal/camo, had us from look one. Leba is America’s next wave as a designer founded in denim but with a global vision of the streets. page 115

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5 – THE ROW You have to love the consistency and laser focus of Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen. each piece is a link to the next and the one that preceded it. We look back at collection one to understand just how the chain started and could easily loop it to today. That clarity is monastic as the collection itself.

4 – PROENZA SCHOULER Much of the work of creatives Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez feels as though the clay was pulled from outside their studio for the designers to impress with their fingerprints. However, it is their fingerprints we are interested in and this season that artisanal hand has formed a soft, subtle collection with edge worthy of praise. Underneath all those hard edges is a relaxed artist that the designer are close to discovering with just a few more chips of the marble. page 116

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3 – PYER MOSS From the beginning Pyer Moss’ Kerby Jean-Raymond was an eloquent storyteller with a meaningful message that resonated. However, the designer lacked what many stateside do, the knowledge of ‘make.’ Without the ability to construct even the most Nobel of messages can fall short. Pull back the message, pull back the staging, pull back the presentation and you still have clothes. This season those clothes on their own had a voice and the make, and Jean-Raymond, and us, are all better for it.

2 – TORY BURCH Perhaps better than any designer other than Karl Lagerfeld, Tory Burch understands the power of the design alphabet, a signature design language in branding woven into each piece. For spring the designer’s ambition shown in the confidence of being powerful while speaking softly in a collection inspired by the late Princess Diana. The result was a sophisticated offering of grace coupled with the power of femininity.

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TOP 10 NYFW SHOWS

VOLUME III / ISSUE X / OCTOBER 2019

1 – MICHAEL KORS

There is a great deal to love about Michael Kors.

Charm, wit, but most of all humanity coupled with conviction. This season the designer donned the cape of the American flag but more in the vein of Peter Fonda in Easy Rider with one hand on the throttle and the other sticking it to The Man. It was brave, beautiful, and bold like the country itself and reminded us we all have a part to play in shaping our story. Which is what all great designers do, allow the imagination of the customers to cast themselves as the hero. For us Michael was that hero this season.

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THE FASHION ISSUE

RALPH'S CLUB

OPEN FOR ONE NIGHT ONLY

W

elcome to Ralph’s Club, only open for one night.

And what a dazzling establishment it is.

America’s ultimate aspirational lifestyle designer, Ralph Lauren, didn’t just rent a room for his show – he built an entire page 120

black-and-white Art Decoinspired nightclub in a former bank on Wall Street and asked his 230 guests to keep costuming to the same colors. From the ornate, three-tiered chandeliers to the sunrise mirrors, silvered columns and skyscraper-lit lights, his team created a

Gatsby-esque after-hours hotspot. Only the original double-curved staircase remained un-Ralphed.

Several hundred guests, including Cate Blanchett, Mandy Moore and Henry Golding, sat at tables imbibing and eating with ease while models such as

Gigi Hadid and Bella Hadid sauntered through the space in variations on the traditional tuxedo and gown.

Following the runway portion of the evening’s events, Lauren earned a standing ovation when he ascended into the space.

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S hop fall f ashion onl i n e : nor dst r om . c om

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THE FASHION ISSUE

THE HIGHLIGHTS NYFW SS2020

STANLEY PIERRE-ETIENNE

@stanleypierretienne Style Contributor

for change were planted in the fashion world.

This year, New York Fashion Week was announced as the most politically woke fashion week ever, and they did not fail to meet expectations.

With the taping of her lingerie fashion show for Amazon Prime, Rihanna made history, giving us an unprecedented event that she defined as a “fashion musical.”

From the political statements of PRABAL GURUNG on the runway to inclusivity in the show’s castings— most of it credited to Rihanna and her lingerie line SAVAGE X FENTY—we can plainly see in 2019 where the seeds

With Victoria’s Secret Fashion show no longer televised, SAVAGE X FENTY is filling the gap in a greater, more current revolutionary way where everyone is represented. Also, we noticed the influence of Rihanna in

many other collections. Inspirations were drawn from various runway shows like CAROLINA HERRERA to design nearly identical silhouettes seen previously from luxurious fashion brand FENTY, another of the many fashion ventures run by Rihanna.

On another note, TOM FORD opened New York Fashion Week with an okay collection. Elsewhere, MARC JACOBS closed it with a bang, showing us how not to take fashion too seriously, instead, teaching us how to make fashion fun again.

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CAROLINA HERRERA In between, we had some powerful runway shows with great collections like the one from BRANDON MAXWELL, who showed a lot of growth and is establishing himself as a designer to put on the favorite list. The way he included a menswear line and worked denim while introducing it to his collection, yet keeping the brand’s essence, craft and impeccable taste was very admirable and deserved to be awarded.

SAVAGE X FENTY page 126

RALPH LAUREN

THE ROW

THE ROW, run by the Olsen twins, was a solid collection because it showed steadiness in how they keep doing what we expect from the brand by adding a little refreshment at every new line.

“costume.” The models were elegantly feminine in their menswear-inspired looks. RALPH LAUREN once again stayed true to its aesthetics while also reinventing itself every time.

We also had RALPH LAUREN Gentlemen’s Club, which was a fantastic show. Mainly inspired by gentlemen’s style and fashion, the looks coming out the runway were not

setting that we could ask for in a fashion show. The collection, inspired by African-American music, celebrated this art field in the best way imaginable. From the music to the live choir

PYER MOSS gave us the best show

SAVAGE X FENTY

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TOM FORD and the selection of songs that were serving as the show’s background and the looks on the runway designed specifically to match the setting, creative director Kerby Jean-Raymond showed us how to honor the street style side of fashion while elevating it to couture level. African-American culture was never so well represented before on the main fashion stage as PYER MOSS did it.

MICHAEL KORS The best collection of New York Fashion Week for Spring and Summer 2020 was without a shadow of a doubt the one we got from MICHAEL KORS. The collection was coherent with each look coming out of the runway.

Everything was so American and political in a way so fashionable that it was impossible not to feel identified. Everyone could relate to it. The clothes, the silhouettes and even the

PYER MOSS models at that show were meant to be a reflection of what fashion needs to be now.

We need more clothes that speak to us without the need to open our mouths.

That kind of activism needs to happen right away, and MICHAEL KORS set the tone with this loud, bold collection but at the same time, so light, timeless and stylish.

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THE FASHION ISSUE

WHAT MONEY BUYS IN NYC

PROENZA SCHOULER Fatigue hangs over the New York shows like a pall in winter and designers like Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are caught in a bind. If design talent, influencers or e–commerce aren’t the answer to fashion’s malaise, what is?

Hurtling toward automation, Chinese tariffs, and a real-time shift in consumer tastes and habits, in summary, one of the biggest disruptions since the 1960s when industrialization and the youth movement combined to change everything, fashion finds itself off-kilter. page 130

This is why designers are flinging themselves hither and yon in a search for interesting venues. Yes, venues are a big deal.

Therapists have a word for this. It’s called distraction. The places they come up with aren’t all that interesting. They’re just inconvenient and make it hard for editors and retailers to get to shows. Presumably, they give designers something more to think about other than what exactly do consumers want and should they stop designing originals and join the growing recycling businesses like Rent the Runway and The Real Real.

While it’s not been reported that any fashion stiffs have missed a show, fashionistas are getting to know the New York subway system and the newly exorbitant ride share and taxi fares even as their travel budgets shrink.

Hernanadez and McCollough brought guests to a 27th Street Manhattan location, a brief walk, even in heels, from a couple of previous shows. They seemed to be in a pragmatic mood.

Appearing sober and relaxed, they chatted backstage post-show about the impact of a new investor brought into the company several months ago. “We feel like we have our freedom back,”

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said Hernandez, "About a sense of new-found freedom that has come with the financing."

Tailors brought into the studio to work, remade some jackets six times to get it to the duo’s specifications.

“It’s a celebration of craft and beauty,” said Hernandez.

“It’s a mix of the last couple collections,” said McCollough. They’d been doing the jackets’ sharp “shoulder for a while.” While the duo prattled on about the creative process, one imagined the cash infusion comes with an understanding that serious sales will be expected. Whether those Benjamins come from a fabulously sharp-shouldered jacket, a lush Grecian dress or a bottle of perfume, investors favorite color is always, green.

COACH 1941 It’s not only indie design companies that are feeling the pressure enveloping the community.

You can feel a tug-of-war between letting his ready-to-wear gene loose and the pull of the bags that made the Coach brand and bring in the dough.

Coach must decide what the showcase is.

A man carrying two Coach baby bags is cute. A second man swinging the iconic coach bucket bag from his shoulder is cuter still in a forced gender-neutral kind of way.

But you’ll quickly lose what footing you have without a commitment to one or the other. It’s not to say the clothes weren’t good. But once you got past the nifty trench in canvas or sumptuous shades of leather, you weren’t left with much that mattered.

Chuck Taylors with triple straps should give sneakerheads reason to swipe their cards. Yellow printed roach-killer ankle boots were cute.

We needed more.

PYER MOSS It’s rumored that Pyer Moss spent $400,000 on its extravaganza. Not a bad marketing budget. We don’t know the exact figure, but we know it was a lot, a whole lot. The theater presentation featured two distinct collections – one eponymous and the other for Pyer Moss x Reebok. There was a choir with a conductor, a white tuxedoed band, a raised runway, a writer/ orator, there were even barricades nearby and a mob scene reminiscent of early Marc Jacobs shows – outside Brooklyn’s Kings Theater where the event took place.

Guests remarked that there was food at the after-party attended by hundreds. Not just drinks and a few canapes. Where would all this money come from? Kerby JeanRaymond, owner of Pyer Moss, has spoken openly and frequently about his financial struggles as a designer trying to make it in NYC. Our guess is Reebok. To invest in the most relevant new designer on the scene today is a good marketing investment for the sneaker company, a fashion sector that counts profits in the billions.

For Jean-Raymond, the math may be more complicated.

What’s the ratio of these marketing dollars to production and distribution?

The calculation for an emerging brand like Pyer Moss is to build brand awareness and equity as fast as possible and then partner the heck out of everything. Jean-Raymond’s a rare talent who’s as skilled a showman as John Galliano, a courageous bleeding-heart activist and a bona fide designer. Could he have charged entry to his show and made enough money to fund his next collection?

Everything’s on the table right now in fashion.

by Constance White, The Impression

PYER MOSS

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TIBI

ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO

DION LEE

TORY BURCH

THE FASHION ISSUE

MORE THAN A RUNWAY SHOW Officially, by edict of the CFDA, New York Fashion Week closed Wednesday with MARC JACOBS’ show. But since no one is the boss of fashion week, just like no one’s the boss of an unruly 3-year old, designers kept showing

KHAITE page 134

and fashionistas kept trekking to see collections well into Sunday, the day “the people” decided would be the close of New York Fashion Week.

Whether it was high profilers

KHAITE

like JACOBS and TOM FORD or strivers like HOPE WADE and Ikaikai’s Dominque Bones-Lark, designers grappled with how to connect with a changing consumer. Shoppers are inordinately interested in two things:

BRANDON MAXWELL

BRANDON MAXWELL Photos from The Impression

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ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO

MARC JACOBS

social issues and buying clothes when the need hits them.

Shows are a necessary part of the creative process. And this isn’t only for designers. Stylists, photographers, editors – all the industry’s creatives get ideas from a show. Even a bad show can inspire.

With the rise of Instagram invitations to runway shows, the sphere of influence has now widened to the actual consumer. Designers such AS PYER MOSS and THE BLONDES posted their

PROENZA SCHOULER

COACH 1941

runway shows’ locations on IG and created a mob scene in Brooklyn and Manhattan, respectively, for shows that would influence not only fashion trends, but culture. The shows were a visual and aural lesson in tolerance. Tommy Hilfiger also served culture at the Apollo Theatre and RIHANNA put on what could only be called an entertainment event that bled feminism. Carmelo Anthony complemented his MELO MADE presentation with a live installation of a painting by South African Artist,

THE ROW

THE ROW

MICHAEL KORS

Nelson Makamo. Indeed, one of the unifying themes was political or cultural moments.

Another unifying theme was sleeveless jackets at TIBI, DION LEE, ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO and exaggerated colLARS AT TORY BURCH, CHOCHENG and MARC JACOBS set the pace.

DENNIS BASSO, COLLINA STRADA and KHAITE used embellishments

like fringe, sequins or rhinestones.

Relaxed silhouettes were popular and

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JACOBS, COACH 1941, and PYER MOSS) and acid green (ALIETTE by

made surprise appearances at TOM FORD and BRANDON MAXWELL.

Jason Rembert). However, this is not just about the clothes. It is about the experience.

Polka dots were everywhere (ELIE

TAHARI, KATE SPADE, TORY BURCH, CAROLINA HERRERA).

Seeing Drake in concert or experiencing an all-female mosh pit at a Rico Nasty show is not the same as watching it in your friend’s Instagram story.

A work of art in close proximity, be it clothes, music, or a painting, affects the five senses in ways the virtual world does not.

PROENZA SCHOULER and THE ROW drew maximum sophistica-

tion from their plays on black and white and several designers dabbled in shades of chrysanthemum RED (TAHARI, COACH, MICHAEL KORS) sunny yellow (noted at MARC

MICHAEL KORS

COACH 1941

TIMING, FORMAT, ENTERTAINMENT, WHAT’S THE BEST STEP? THROW ALL YOUR RESOURCES INTO A CONSUMER-FACING SHOW? OR FOCUS ON WOOING RETAILERS AND EDITORS?

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It’s not that one is better than the other, but the latter is a distinct experiential event, which you share with all who are in attendance. You read each other’s facial expressions and body language and ask silently, “Do you and I feel the same way about what is coming down the runway?”

by Constance White The Impression

PYER MOSS

ALIETTE

WHAT’S A DESIGNER TO DO?

SONJA MORGAN, A REAL HOUSEWIFE OF NEW YORK.

THE FINAL SHOWS OF NEW YORK FASHION WEEK INCLUDED 93PUNX WITH A PERFORMANCE BY ITS CHICAGO CO-CREATOR VIC MENSA AND A RUNWAY ROMP OF SONJA BY

THE AFTER-SHOW PARTY WAS REPLETE WITH FROTHY COCKTAILS, PHOTO OPS AND GUESTS IN SHINY FROCKS AND CAMERA-READY MAKEUP.

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THE FASHION ISSUE

EVERYTHING'S IN THE DETAILS

COLANGELO

FERRAGAMO

MISSONI

MSGM

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FERRAGAMO

FERRAGAMO

GIORGIO ARMANI

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ERMANNO SCERVINO

Mini bucket or giant shopper, the fashion week runways of New York have got all of your clobber-toting needs sorted. So take your pick from the catwalks and have next autumn's handbag trends down pat.

A new crop of bag trends is about to make the transition to fall much more enticing. As spotted on the runways from New York to Paris, handbags are noticeably more playful for fall 2019.

From doubling up at once to

smaller-than-ever micro bags to shearling details, this season's best handbags are anything but basic.

Straight from the runways, these are the top trends to know—and start shopping—ahead of this season. page 141

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MISSONI

ERMANNO SCERVINO

DOLCE & GABBANA

GIORGIO ARMANI

MSGM page 142

FERRAGAMO

MISSONI

DOLCE & GABBANA

GIORGIO ARMANI

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THE FASHION ISSUE

MEN'S LEADING LOOKS FROM PARIS

Paris was burning this season and perhaps the most holistic of the global fashion weeks with a more curated set of collections than any week prior. Designer VIRGIL ABLOH showed more maturity this season as we watch his evolution of craftsmanship and detail evolve to match his understanding of the global zeitgeist at both OFF-WHITE & LOUIS VUITTON.

10. OFF-WHITE

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9. THOM BROWNE

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8. DRIES VAN NOTEN

7. BERLUTI

6. SACAI

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5. CHRISTIAN DIOR

4. VALENTINO

3. RICK OWENS

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2. LOUIS VUITTON

1. RAF SIMONS

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BRANDON MAXWELL

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THE FASHION ISSUE COUTURE

MARC JACOBS

Tried and true showcased why leaders are leaders this season in Milan with a Top 10 dominated by core fashion houses.

All eyes were on Silvia Venturini FENDI as the creative showcased her first collection sans mentor Karl Lagerfeld. She opened the collection with the metaphor of a sunrise to usher in the dawn of a new age at FENDI. The daybreak was more youthful than previous collections while maintaining the design codes Lagerfeld entrenched in the label. The result was fresh collection that we look forward to seeing blossom.

While everyone may have been over the moon regarding J.Lo’s outing at VERSACE, what impression us was the elevated collection that evolved the house from its history rather than fell-back on it. It was Versace’s most modern collections in a number of seasons with just the right balance of tailored sexiness we want from the house.

Alessandro Michele’s GUCCI earned our top position this season as the designer took a turn from more-is-more to streamline precision at GUCCI. The collection was drawn from sexualized punk ethos with just the right touch of kink in its tailoring. It was, in short, original and a welcome evolution from today’s most visionary of designers. page 151

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MOSCHINO

MOSCHINO

MOSCHINO

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MOSCHINO

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MOLLY GODDARD

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JASON WU

JASON WU

MARC JACOBS

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JASON WU

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FENDI

FENDI

DOLCE & GABBANA

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CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

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CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

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CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

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VERSACE

VERSACE

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VERSACE

VERSACE

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VERSACE

VERSACE

VERSACE

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FASHION & TECHNOLOGY: THE CONNECTED CATWALK

App users can respond to looks and shows in real-time using SAP, an app developed specifically for use in the fashion industry.

Will users embrace this technology? And how will the industry respond?

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TECH

CONNECTED CATWALK

HOW TECHNOLOGY IS CHANGING FASHION In the dynamic world of fashion, technology is increasing its footprint every day. Brands like Rent the Runway, Moda Operandi and Amazon are integrating new tools into their platforms to make customer experiences seamless and enjoyable.

Enterprise software provider SAP is also expanding its presence in the fashion industry, as its technology hits the runway for the third time in September, showcasing tech-enabled designs and a newly enhanced interactive runway app at New York Fashion Week (NYFW).

This year SAP partnered with Cirque du Soleil, the world leader in art and entertainment, and Fashion-Tech designer and innovator Anouk Wipprecht, to create the first-ever tech-enhanced designs. The designs utilize Qualtrics to capture participant’s inputs and delivers page 168

custom-made beverages - cocktails and non-alcoholic drinks - and fragrances to the individual.

suit, that are centered around audience interactions to create the ultimate customer experience. Here’s how it works:

Also, the Runway by SAP app will again be incorporated in top-designer Badgley Mischka’s runway show to create new ways for viewers to interact and provide real-time feedback during the shows.

The experience begins when the participant first engages with the design.

The participant interacts with the model and design through a tablet on their arm that takes them through a series of questions using Experience Management solutions from SAP. Feedback from the interaction is analyzed and feeds the exact experiential and operational data it needs to pick one of many expertly crafted beverages or fragrances for each guest.

With these innovative technology advances and utilizing participant input to drive personalization, SAP is turning big data into a moment of joy in fashion.

CIRQUE UNVEILS TECHENABLED DESIGNS BASED ON PARTICIPANT’S INPUT These original tech-enabled designs will come to life at NYFW. Together, SAP, Cirque du Soleil and designer Anouk created “Elixir” and “Fragrance” – two designs, each including a dress and a

After the questions are answered, the design starts to work. All fashionably hidden, through conveyor belts, pumps and capsules secured by 3D-printed harnesses and accessories, the beverage design blends different alcohols, fruit juices and flavors to craft the perfect drink. While the fragrance design combines different scents creating a

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personalized fragrance with a custom label delivering a world-class product and brand experience for users.

The designs not only make the beverages and fragrances quickly, but they are specifically catered to you. The designs know exactly what you need – a lavender-infused drink for when you are stressed, ginger-infused for more energy, or even the perfect fragrance you did not even know existed. How’s that for the ultimate personalized experience?

SHOP WITH RUNWAY BY SAP This year, whether you are at the show or watching, you can participate in the runway experience by engaging in real-time with the looks from the Badgley Mischka show on the Runway by SAP app.

Simply point your iPhone at the model and the app will identify what they are

wearing. You can then dive deeper into the look and “like” or “love” the items, and add them to your wish list. You can share your wish list with BM, and they’ll alert you when items are ready for purchase. The app uses the beacon technology and machine learning algorithms that instantly recognize the looks as they walk the runway.

BM has incorporated the app into its show, giving the audience the chance to engage and react to what they like and love, showing the designers the feedback and influencing future designs and buying decisions. It’s a personalized experience for each user.

Future of Fashion and Technology On the last day of NYFW, SAP will contribute to an “In Conversation” panel, led by Emma Rosenblum, Editorin-Chief of Bustle Digital Group with guests, Alicia Tillman, Global CMO

of SAP, Marcus Wainwright, founder of rag & bone, Diane Quinn, Chief Creative Officer at Cirque du Soleil, and Aaron Duffy, CEO of Specialguest.

These thought leaders will discuss the impact of technology and experience in the fashion industry across a wide variety of topics.

“We are excited to return to our third New York Fashion Week with a focus on creating more personalized and unique consumer experiences at the intersection of technology and fashion,” said Alicia Tillman, Global CMO of SAP. “Through our tech-enabled fashion designs, created in collaboration with Cirque du Soleil, and our enhanced Runway by SAP app, we wanted to demonstrate how our technology can translate direct feedback and inputs to give designers the feedback they need to create designs that are the most relevant to consumers today.” page 169

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Challenge. Create. Outperform.

See the lineage 1000E at embraer.com

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THE BOUNTY OF

HARVEST

A Season for Creating the Wonder of Wine CEZAR KUSIK @cezareatsdirt Wine Contributor

It is that time of the year: autumn. When the heat of summer slowly subsides and the fruits of our labor are heavy and ripe with maturity and succulent flavors awaiting the harvest.

This is the last push before we reap the rewards of our hard work. When we can wipe the sweat off our brows and rest our weary bones in the comfort of our warm abodes to recharge during the long nights and short days of winter until the next year’s spring thaw.

And of course, part of those rewards is the pleasure of what’s in the wine glass.

The cultivation of the wine grape vines is arguably the most intricate and nuanced farming of all consumable produce. The human intervention (yes! I’m not afraid to use the word) is crucial to the quality of the final product: wine a.k.a. the fermented juice of grapes. “Poetry in a bottle”, as some call it, takes time, patience, hard work and knowledge to make. Yet, with the many variables of natural conditions, and with all the aspects of human intervention in place, the outcome is never guaranteed. Wine grapes are extremely macro-climate sensitive. The weather, the soil’s chemical composition and its type and geographic exposure have an acute effect on the quality of the fruit and subsequently the quality of the wine. In fact, it takes at least three years for a newly planted vine to produce healthy grapes.

Wine is made in two distinct stages:

the farming of the vines and their fruit in the vineyard and the wine-making process in the winery. Each of these stages has a specific sequence of steps dictated by nature. In this article, we will focus on the first stage.

Seasonality is an important factor in farming. Earth’s two hemispheres function on opposite seasonal patterns and we will follow the northern hemisphere’s pattern. We also must keep in mind that depending on their latitude and micro-climate, different wine growing regions offer different temperatures, consequently offsetting the chronology of farming and wine-making. In hot regions like Napa Valley in California or Barossa Valley in Australia, the flowering of the vines will start much earlier than in cooler regions such as Burgundy France or Mosel Germany.

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Harvest

Did you know, the best wine growing regions are roughly located between 30and 50-degrees latitude in both hemispheres? There, the temperatures and the sun’s exposure are the most suitable for Vitis vinifera vine, the species which is best fit for wine-making.

PRUNING. It all starts on a cold, foggy late winter morning where the vines—rigid with frost—stand in rows in the middle of barren vineyards.

Leafless and seemingly lifeless the vines present themselves with a stark beauty.

This is when the first tending of them takes place. While still in their dormancy, the vines are tended to by highly valued pruners, who are specialized vineyard workers. Pruning and trimming will eventually establish the right balance between the number of shoots and the number of buds on a vine. Too many shoots and not enough buds will produce too much leafage, shading the berries from the sun. Too many buds will lead to an excessive abundance of grapes, stopping them from ripening properly. page 174

Throughout the life of a vine, there are a plethora of diseases and natural menaces that can impede the plant’s productivity or destroy its growth and fruit. From microscopic mites and fungi to visible creatures like bugs and birds, the vine stands exposed and vulnerable to nature’s elements and her creatures, and it is the vineyards owner’s job to provide protection. It can be done through the use of chemicals, a more predictably effective method, but one that heavily compromises the quality of the fruit and consequently, the wine. Or, you can choose a natural approach by implementing nature-friendly practices of farming: sustainable, organic, or bio-dynamic. These create a healthy ecosystem which results in strong vines which can fight off their enemies on their own and produce “clean” fruit and better wine. It is like homeopathy for vines. The choice is yours.

THE BUD BREAK. The first buds

appear when vines awake from dormancy. The bud break usually happens in March or early April depending on the

geographic location of the vineyards.

The moment the buds come to life, the struggle to protect them from cold temperatures begins. If the temperature dips below the freezing point, it can cause serious damage to the delicate, susceptible shoots. There are a few ways of preventing that from happening; using giant fans to circulate the air throughout the vineyard is one of them. Another one, seemingly counterintuitive, is to use sprinklers to coat the vines with water. The freezing process actually produces a bit of heat, protecting the shoots.

About a month after bud break, the flowering stage starts covering vines in a white, snow-like blanket of petals. The fruit set follows flowering almost immediately. Most grapevines self-pollinate, and fertilized flower begins to develop a seed and grape berry to protect the seed. Not all the flowers will pollinate and turn into fruit. Fruit set is a good indicator of the upcoming crop yield giving a vineyard owner an idea of how many grapes can be expected during the harvest. The percentage of fertilized flowers averages around 30%, but it can get as high as 60%. Climate and the health of the vine are the main factors determining that figure.

DID YOU KNOW? Grapes for

sparkling wines are harvested nota-

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bly earlier than others because wine makers are looking for a higher acidity and significantly less ripeness. They are harvested with extra care as to not to disturb the flavors and minimize any harsh compounds that may be imparted from the skin of the grape.

VERAISON. Veraison is the on-site

of the fruit ripening. This is one of the most scenically beautiful times in the vineyards. The green vegetal color of undeveloped berries changes to yellow, gold, red, crimson and a multitude of such variations of shades. This is also the last time for green harvesting, when the vineyard workers cut and dispose of excess bunches and eliminate the weak and unhealthy ones to direct all the energy of the vine to the most promising crop. The sugar levels in grapes rise exponentially and are monitored constantly using a refractometer. Not enough sugar will result in wines that are too acidic, and tart. Conversely, too much sugar will turn them into flabby fruit bombs. Sugar to acid ratio is one of the leading indicators of a style of wine and its balance. When that ratio is reached within the fruit and to the specifications of a wine-maker, it is time to harvest.

DID YOU KNOW? The big three decisions of a wine-maker when it comes to harvesting grapes are sugar, acid, and tannins. Sugar and acid are measured with a refractometer – tannins, however, are sampled by tasting the grape!

Undoubtedly, the harvest is the most labor and time-intensive time of the entire growing season. It is nerve-wracking. Many things can go wrong. Once the decision to pick is made, the grapes have to be picked as quickly as possible and transported to the winery in the most pristine state for further processing. The moment the grapes are plucked from the vine, they stop ripening, but they are immediately exposed to other damaging elements. Therefore the

picking starts in the wee hours of the day; usually when it is still dark out, and the temperatures are at their lowest.

The cold keeps the grapes’ sugar levels stable. It retains the concentration of flavor better and prevents oxidation and premature fermentation. In wine regions with a hot climate, picking early also ensures more bearable working conditions for the pickers.

Most wineries produce wines from a variety of grapes to maximize their facilities: white, red and different varietals within the same color. Different grape varieties require different levels of ripeness, thus are picked at various times during the harvest. White grapes with higher acidity like Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, and Albariño go first. Fuller body wines like Viognier, Chardonnay, and Marsanne are next.

Then red grapes follow. Thinner skin grape varieties, Pinot Noir, Gamey and Nebbiolo, ripen earlier. Medium body grapes are next: Merlot, Grenache, and Tempranillo. The big boys come last: Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Mourvedre, and Sagrantino; their harvest can be extended till late October. Not to mention late harvest dessert wines whose grapes are picked as late as the latter part of November. The wineries which offer a full spectrum of grape varieties and wine styles will literally harvest for months.

DID YOU KNOW? Zinfandel is one

of the oldest grape-producing vines?

After about 50 years Zinfandel vine is considered mature, but it may yet not be half-way through its life. 120-yearold vines are a common occurrence in Zinfandel-thriving regions like Dry Creek Valley in Northern California or the Paso Robles area in California’s Central Coast. The older the vine, the smaller the yield – but with age, the concentration and the complexity of the flavor in grapes increases in ways that it cannot duplicate by any other method.

And with that, the harvest is over. All

the grapes are at the winery, and the art the wine-making begins. But that’s the topic for next month.

Wine’s image and its place in our society have changed dramatically. It hasn’t been until relatively recently in many parts of the globe that wine has become part of our daily indulgence. In many cultures, it has been consumed unceremoniously, almost matter-of-factly; treated as a liquid to wash our foods down with, equally enjoyed by the rich and the poor. For better or worse in recent history, we turned wine into an art form, a commodity, a consumable product of reverence sold at extravagant auctions fetching unreasonable prices showcasing prestige and wealth. To the point – wine seems to have become a fad. People write books and make movies about wine. Wine makers and sommeliers are celebrities.

Recently, a bottle of a red Burgundy (Pinot Noir) from the revered DRC Romanne-Conti winery from 1945 vintage was sold at the Sotheby’s auction in New York for over half a million dollars.

Nuts! Yet the basics of wine-making, from its inception in the vineyards to the bottling in the winery, haven’t changed for centuries.

No matter what the sticker price is, the effort and the process are nearly identical; it takes care, commitment and a lot of hard work. So while drinking your next wine, whether it is an $18 bottle of an unknown wine from an obscure region made by an equally unknown wine-maker or an outrageously priced, collector wine from “the year of the century,” try not to pontificate about its pedigree or pass judgment on the lack thereof.

Try as well not to dwell on the technicalities, vintage variation, the label, or the price. Instead, taste and enjoy it through the prism of all the people who contributed to its making, their devoted, hard labor and the magic of nature. page 175

SPIRITUALITY DEFINING THE DIVINE

SATURN

THE PLANET

MOST FEARED

DARES US TO TAKE RESPONSIBILTY

FOR OUR SUCCESSES AND FAILURES JYOTI PAINTEL-BOWLES @jyotipaintel Spirituality Contributor

“If you’re going through Hell, then keep going!”

– Winston Churchill

Traditional astrology is the study of a “natal chart,” which posits that the exact date and time of our coming into existence has a profound influence on all of the significant events in our life story.

These events are predictable during periods of our lives in the eyes of astrology—although not through exact dates—and if we study the movement of our signs (or stars) as they transit the planets, we can navigate through these life events with more ease and less panic.

These occurrences can reflect favorable transits in our chart: a marriage, the birth of a child, a move to a foreign land or career prominence. In my twopart series on Saturn and the planets, I will explain the importance of the

planets and their sphere of influence on our life events.

For this column, I will spend my time focusing on the influence of Saturn. Known as the Great Teacher (or Punisher) it represents life’s most unpredictable and unpleasant changes and upheavals such as a sudden loss of a loved one, an illness, divorce, losing a job or financial insolvency.

I will then explain the influence of the other planet’s, to give a more holistic explanation of the attributes of each one.

Saturn Return: The Party’s Over (not really!)

Saturn is the planet that is the most feared because it is ultimately about taking responsibility for our success and failures. The events impacted by Saturn teach us about life through challenges, failures, renewal and rebirth.

Rising from the ashes of our life disasters, and the wisdom acquired from that is the moral the planet teaches.

Saturn transits into our house at a critical age, right at the end of our 20s

to our early 30s. It is at this point where we begin to examine our lives to see what we truly want. Many of us will experience growing pains.

The fun, frivolous season of our youth has passed, and we must cross the threshold into adulthood. This can manifest as major chaos in our lives.

We might have feelings of inadequacy that cause us to question our existence.

Out of nowhere, our needs and desires that we used to have about relationships, career ambitions, and our life goals can suddenly change and shift like an earthquake, causing our seemingly perfect life to crumble into pieces. Or so we think at the time.

If Saturn’s influence sounds like chaos and crises, that is exactly what I am describing, but it isn’t always a bad thing.

Change, while terrifying, can cause us to discern and clarify what we want out of life. Something I heard on a podcast once stuck out: if you are living your life correctly, that is, making choices and taking risks, you should hit rock bottom a few times. page 179

SPIRITUALITY DEFINING THE DIVINE

SATURN

THE PLANET

MOST FEARED

DARES US TO TAKE RESPONSIBILTY

FOR OUR SUCCESSES AND FAILURES What this implies is when our lives are shattered into pieces, we then have a chance to rebuild with a renewed sense of self-confidence and courage to construct a stronger foundation and a more accurate vision of what life should have and hold.

The Planets and their Influence To better understand how the planets represent areas of our lives, it is vital to understand the significance of the planets. It truly cannot be understated how each planet symbolizes a different part of life, or if you might imagine, a certain energetic presence or a drive that pushes us to make decisions.

In astrology, the Sun and the Moon possess the status of planets because they impact our very existence. The Sun is the source of all life and energy on land, and the Moon is the perfect dance of the waves merging all the oceans into one.

The Sun is the most important planet in our chart and is your ego that controls your motivation, your vitality and how you identify yourself. It represents your passions and pushes you to determine

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what you like or dislike. The Sun is masculine and is seen as our paternal guide and protector, our Father.

The Moon is feminine in nature, as it controls the realms of female fertility.

The cyclical movements of the new and full moon coincide with the monthly construction of a womb, the natural and healthy waning and deconstruction, and then renewal (new moon) and reconstruction of a new home (full moon) for the creative force of life to enter.

Our moon side is usually only visible to those closest to us. As it governs our sensuality and joy, our emotional attachments, intuition, instincts, habitual behavior and most importantly, our self-esteem. Our Moon’s shadow side is the negative emotions we try to keep hidden. For example, products of our shadow side are jealousy, anger, and fear.

Mercury is the house of communication, and is indicative of how you communicate, think, learn, and solve. If you are born with Mercury prominent in your natal chart, you are effective and disciplined at expressing your needs.

Venus is the planet of love, relationships, and romance and influences the kind of partner we attract, how we behave in the dating game, our attractiveness and sex appeal, and the physical expression of our affection.

Funnily, our behavior with romantic partners can also mimic our relationships with money; Venus also controls our finances, and potential to earn.

Social likability is also developed under this planet, so our outward appearance to others is more significant.

Next month I will discuss the remaining planets, and also how Saturn can go into retrograde, which is similar to a return, but smaller in scope.

However important the influence of the stars, our actions are always our choice.

It is always important to remember that no matter what is written in the stars, we are the master architects of own our lives.

“The fault lies not in our stars Dear Brutus, but in our Selves.”

– Julius Caesar, Shakespeare

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COACH WINE: FUNCTIONAL TRAINING

THE EVOLUTION OF THE

PERSONAL TRAINER

AVOIDING COMMON PITFALLS AND FLAT-OUT, BAD TRAINERS

The entire balance of your bank account and all the tips on the Internet can't help if you don't follow some basic guidelines.

MARK WINE CSCS, BA, USAW, PT, PES, CES @functionalmuscle Healthy Lifestyles Contributor

Personal training and the fitness industry have evolved from their infant years.

Recently, the fitness industry has seen an explosion in growth.

There are currently 2,000 companies, including nonprofits, within the United States of America that operate nearly 30,000 fitness centers with a combined annual revenue of approximately $22 billion.

This explosion has helped lead to the evolution of personal training and fitness, which has resulted in both positive and negative qualities. Both fields are meant to inspire individuals through directed exercise and workouts to attain levels of fitness and health that they never thought imagin-

able. However, the majority of trainers and facilities fall short in helping their clients achieve their goals.

Within the fitness industry, personal trainers and fitness facilities should continuously be developing or attempting to educate themselves on training. This philosophy will guarantee that the fitness industry remains in a constant state of turnover amongst personal trainers, training styles, facilities and training research. However, this high degree of turnover opens the doors to horrific training apparatus’s (i.e. the shake weight), terrible personal trainers and unsafe gyms and facilities. One misleading common practice that fitness companies engage in is phony research.

Companies are skewing numbers in their favor from supposed independent studies to achieve higher revenue for their products. Another negative aspect is in regard to personal trainers. Trainers

are passing certifications, which do not properly educate them on the variables of training and entering the field in record numbers.

There were 261,100 personal trainers in 2008. The estimation of the number of personal trainers in 2018 is 337,900 [2]. Personal trainers are not the only part of the fitness industry that is growing exponentially. Gyms are multiplying as well and they are overloading their facilities with state-of-the-art machines. These machines may keep members happy but they frequently yield nothing toward weight loss.

Second, concerning personal trainers, this high demand opens the flood gates to an over saturation of trainers claiming to be properly educated. I have had personal experiences with hundreds of phony personal trainers within the fitness industry. Personal trainers and individuals who engage in fitness as a hobby

believe knowing exercises, whether machine based or not, is enough to become a personal trainer. WRONG! Personal trainers must have a basic understanding of human anatomy, exercises, movements, nutrition and numerous exercise variables (i.e. reps, sets, rest time, etc).

There are a few training certification programs within the marketplace that properly educate personal trainers.

These courses go over how to train for specific goals; how to properly incorporate variables and proper exercise technique. However, there are more inefficient courses than efficient ones.

It is necessary for the client to filter out the phony trainers and facilities. Here are a few things to look for when choosing a trainer or a fitness facility.

First, look for a facility that employs personal trainers and workers who are in shape. Employees do not page 195

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THE EVOLUTION OF PERSONAL TRAINERS have to be figure models or professional athletes, but they should be in decent shape. If you walk into a gym and their personal trainers are overweight, then walk out. Personal trainers who do not live the lifestyle have no business telling you to workout. More trainers need to realize that their bodies are their best form of advertisement, they are a walking billboard for their program. Trainers are in place to inspire and direct their clients to reach their goals. This inspiration is negated when the person being trained is in better shape than the person directing the training.

Second, look for a gym that is functional with more up to date training styles. When a gym is machined based, it becomes advantageous to find another facility.

Simply put, machines are not the best form of exercise. As humans, our movements are not supported by equipment. All of our actions are constantly in unbalanced situations that are supported by our stabilizer muscles. Therefore, training should incorporate balanced and unbalanced movements. Programs should work to develop each participant’s core first and foremost.

Third, look for a helpful facility. The majority of gyms do not help the general clientele. In fact, gyms often completely neglect the client. Personal trainers and other facility employees will allow members to perform exercises incorrectly while walking around the gym aimlessly. The only members being helped are those who pay for it at costs of around $75-$100 per hour.

Fourth, look for a facility that does not empty your wallet. If you are paying over $150 per month for three days per week (i.e. cross fit), regardless if it is group classes, then you are being ripped off. These facilities are merely collecting your income and will only provide limited results. Instead, look for a facility and personal trainer that gets you results immediately and continually. You will quickly know what type of facility you have by asking questions. If they know the answers, or are willing to give suggestions or tips, then they truly care about your results. Is that not why you are there? page 196

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M U S C L E

F I T N E S S page 197

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FIGHT THE URGE

THE KEY TO SELFDISCIPLINE PART I

flow comes to a halt, and you do not have any emergency funds because they are now sitting in your driveway.

JOEY VELEZ, MA, MBA @velezmentalperformance Wellness Contributor

What does it take to be successful? How can you separate yourself from the pack? What are you willing to sacrifice to achieve your goals?

There are many answers to these questions, but without self-discipline, your journey will be filled with more roadblocks and setbacks than anticipated.

By practicing self-discipline, we gain a giant advantage when faced with difficult times. Where one person may give up and submit to life’s temptations, you will stay true to your path and reach your destination with ease.

Self-discipline is defined as the ability to pursue one’s desires despite temptations to abandon those ideals. You are going to be tempted along your journey with things that cause you immediate gratification. For example, if you are on a nutrition plan, counting your calories, and one night you come home to your favorite meal and dessert sitting on your counter. It is not a part of the nutrition plan, but how can you resist? Or your business is growing, and the cash flow is constant, so you decide to spoil yourself by purchasing two brand new luxury vehicles. Then two weeks later, the cash page 200

Giving into these temptations can derail you from your goals and will undoubtedly require more time and effort to get back on track. In the short term, submitting to temptations may seem to have an immediate positive impact, but once that euphoria fades away, you are left with disappointment and regret because you allowed yourself to succumb to the urges. On the other side, while resisting temptation can prove difficult, it shows a sign of strength that you were able to overcome these challenges and stick to your plan, which provides you with a sense of accomplishment before you achieve your goals, making reaching the final destination that much more satisfying.

Not only does self-discipline increase your chances of reaching success, but it also improves life satisfaction.

According to the Journal of Personality, people with high levels of self-control are in general happier than those without. Furthermore, they found that children who showed higher levels of self-discipline were more likely later in life to be adults with greater health and wealth. You can experience greater happiness and positive feelings because you consistently reach your goals in a timely manner and show signs of strength that ultimately lead to wanting to experience positivity more often.

I never truly understood the value of being disciplined or having self-control. For as long as I could remember, I would always succumb to life’s temp-

tations because I knew how satisfying they could be. I can remember being full after family dinners, and still, my parents would put their leftovers on my plate for me to eat because they knew if they did, I would finish them, and that would be less clutter in the refrigerator.

I never said no, I never told myself I was too full to eat because I knew how good the food was going to taste. I wanted immediate satisfaction.

As I progressed through junior high and high school, this did not stop. What changed, however, was my response once that immediate satisfaction faded away. I would experience doubt, regret and disgust; this is when I started to feel self-conscious about my body. I felt my fellow students thought I was fat. I thought I was fat. But I never wanted to say no to the immediate satisfaction that food provided me. Going through this in high school was extremely difficult because I started to think in the long-term: Will someone love me?

Will I be happy? It made it difficult to fully enjoy high school because these thoughts were always in the back of my mind.

When I was 22 years old and working at a health club, I was 240 pounds with 35% body fat. One of our trainers approached me and wanted to provide me with a meal plan that he was going to implement with all of his clients.

I remember the talk we had before getting started. We spoke about the details of the plan. I could eat whatever I wanted as long as I stayed within my macro-nutrient numbers, but most importantly, we talked about how self-control really is what makes plans

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like this work. I took it to heart, and within four months, I was down to 195 pounds and 13% body fat. I specifically remember a time when I was at home with a few friends, and they decided to order two large pizzas and an order of garlic bread. My mouth is watering just thinking about it. I chose to eat a salad.

I think that was perhaps the hardest thing I ever had to do up to that point in my life. Everything inside of me was shouting to “Just have one slice,” and I kept responding “No.” As uncomfortable as it was, and as much as I wanted to say “Yes”, I stayed true to my path and it worked out fantastically for me.

If you do not know where you are going, then it is easier to get sidetracked.

Therefore, you must first develop a clear vision of what you want to accomplish.

Setting goals can direct attention, increase persistence, mobilize effort and help you employ strategies to reach those goals. When a person has set their mind on achieving an objective, their effort is directed toward accomplishing it, and that person is more likely to continue working toward their

target, even when faced with challenging events, such as temptations.

Your goals should be specific, realistic and time-sensitive to instill a sense of urgency.

Your self-talk is an important key if you are going to resist life’s temptations.

Your mind is going to tell you things like “it is going to taste delicious” or “it will be so much easier” or “just do it later” and you are going to need to have an action plan to fight these urges. One thing you can do is ask yourself the question: How will this help me reach my goals? You will find that this simple question can increase your self-discipline. Again, resisting temptations may be difficult and uncomfortable, but you will avoid feelings of guilt, regret and doubt, and move further down the path of accomplishing the goals you’ve set.

You can also incorporate more directive “self-talk” statements which help many people in self-motivation and discipline. For example, if your goal is to wake up at 5 a.m. every day and workout, your self-talk statement might look like “just get up and do it” as opposed

to “come on you can do it.” Everyone is different; there is not a one-size-fitsall mentality, so you must adjust these statements to what coincides with your personality. Testing out the style and strength of self-talk statements creates a path for them to become both habitual and successful.

The term self-discipline might tend to give off the wrong impression. On the surface, being self-disciplined sounds uncomfortable. As a concept, it seems like it involves a high level of resistance and incorporates a narrow-minded perspective. Nothing could be further from the truth. Being self-disciplined shows a sign of strength; being able to handle the temptations that life throws at you, but making the choice to continue down your path to what you want to achieve. Sure, enjoy life’s temptations, but do so when you have achieved your goals, this way you can reward yourself with those temptations. Achieve your goals and take control of your life by practicing self-discipline. And remember, practice makes perfect.

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