EATING AND DRINKING BASICS region of US$100 a night or more for a genuinely classy place. This guide also recommends several smaller resort hotels that offer something unique, such as a breathtaking view or historic building. Jungle lodges near the Terai wildlife parks are typically the most expensive options of all, charging US$250 plus a night.
Village stays and homestays A growing number of programmes enable visitors to stay overnight in private homes in traditional villages far from the tourist trails. Village stays (also called village tourism or homestays) offer a unique opportunity for comfortable cultural immersion, and could become a good way to disperse visitors and spread the economic benefits of tourism into rural areas. The idea is that a tour operator contracts with a whole village to accommodate and entertain guests; rooms in local houses are fitted with bathrooms and a few tourist-style comforts, host families are trained to prepare meals that won’t disturb delicate Western constitutions, and a guide accompanies the guests to interpret, if necessary. There are numerous village tourism programmes, including one in Chisapani, southeast of Pokhara near Rup Tal, run by the reputable Pokhara-based Child Welfare Scheme (W cwsn.org), another at the Gurung village of Sirubari (see box, p.230), and others that can be organized in and around Tansen (see p.234) and Bandipur (see p.204).
A few language institutes and other organizations in Kathmandu and Patan also organize homestays with families in and around the valley; try Nepal Face to Face (T 980 883 8447, W nepalfacetoface.com). A quick internet search will put you in direct contact with dozens of other options.
Eating and drinking Nepal – and specifically Kathmandu – is renowned as the budget eating capital of Asia. Sadly, its reputation is based not on Nepali but on pseudo-Western food: pizza, chips (fries), “sizzling” steaks and apple pie are the staples of tourist restaurants. Outside the popular areas, the chief complaint from travellers is about the lack of variety, though with a little willingness to experiment, a range of dishes can be found.
Indeed, a vast range of flavours can be found just in daal bhaat, the national dish of rice, lentils, lightly curried vegetables and pickles; though it can also, sometimes, be disappointingly bland. In the Kathmandu Valley, the indigenous Newars have their own unique cuisine of spicy meat and vegetable dishes, while a vast range of Indian curries, breads, snacks and sweets comes into play in the Terai; in the high mountains, the traditional diet consists of noodle soups, potatoes and toasted flour. SUSTAINABLE TOURISM “Chow-chow” packet noodles, cooked up as a spicy While tourism is a key part of Nepal’s soup snack, are ubiquitous. Vegetarians will feel at economy, it doesn’t always have a home in Nepal, since meat is considered a luxury. positive impact on the country. The Tourist menus invariably include veggie items. Responsible Travel Nepal initiative Outside the tourist areas food is very inexpenprovides Nepali tourism companies – sive, and a simple meal and drink may well set you hotels and resorts, trekking and back less than Rs100. In places like Kathmandu and adventure companies, travel agencies Pokhara, however, costs can quickly add up: you and so on – with training and support to might pay around Rs300–800 for a main meal at a encourage them to ensure their activities and management practices follow tourist-oriented restaurant, and even more at a sustainable tourism principles. Crucially, posher place. Note that few restaurants in tourist it emphasizes the business benefits of areas include government taxes (13 percent) and ipi8hfBu+Fu1Tqp6g5eaALs= adopting these principles, helping the service charges (10 percent) in their menu prices, companies to build links with operators though we have added these to the sample prices and travellers, improve their marketing quoted in our listings.
work and expand their businesses. Responsible Travel Nepal’s website (W rt-responsibletravel.com) provides information about the companies participating, and is a useful first port of call when planning activities in Nepal.
Where to eat Tourist restaurants in Kathmandu, Pokhara and a few other well-visited places show an amazing knack for sensing what travellers want and
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