The Rough Guide to Nepal

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BASICS HEALTH

DANCE AND CULTURE SHOWS Nepali music is inseparable from dance, especially at festivals. Nepali dance is an unaffected folk art – neither wildly athletic nor subtle, it depicts everyday activities such as work and courtship. Each region and ethnic group has its own traditions, and during your travels you should get a chance to join a local hoedown or two, if not a full-blown festival extravaganza. Lookout, too, for the stick dance of the lowland Tharus, performed regularly at lodges around Chitwan National Park. Staged culture shows in Kathmandu and Pokhara are a long way from the real thing, but they do provide a taste of folk and religious dances. Most troupes perform such standards as the dance of the jhankri (shaman-exorcists still consulted by many hill-dwelling Nepalis); the sleeve-twirling dance of the Sherpas; the flirting dance of the hill-dwelling Tamangs; perhaps a formal priestly dance, to the accompaniment of a classical raga (musical piece); and at least one of the dances of the Kathmandu Valley’s Newars.

city of Nepal; their blood is sprinkled on tools, vehicles and even aircraft to impart Durga’s shakti (power). These rituals commemorate Durga’s slaying of the demon Mahisasur, and more generally, the triumph of good over evil. Bijaya Dasami, the “Victorious Tenth Day”, celebrates Ram’s victory over the demon Ravana – with Durga’s help. Various processions and masked dance troupes ply the streets and families visit their elders to receive blessings and tika.

MANGSIR NOVDEC Ram-Sita Biwaha Panchami As many as 100,000 pilgrims converge on Janakpur for this five-day gathering, beginning on the new moon of Mangsir. The highlight is the re-enactment of the wedding of Ram and Sita, the divine, star-crossed lovers of the Ramayana, one of the great Hindu epics. Janakpur’s stature as a holy city rests on its having been the location of the original wedding.

KAATTIK OCTNOV

Health

Tihaar (Diwali near India). Lasting for five days, starting two days before the new moon, the “Festival of Lights” is associated with Yamraj, the god of death, and Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and good fortune. Hygiene is not one of Nepal’s strong points. Sanitation is poor, and lots of bugs On the first day, Nepalis set out food on leaf plates for crows, regarded as make the rounds, especially during spring Yamraj’s messengers; on the second, they honour dogs as Yamraj’s and the monsoon. But by coming prepared gatekeepers, giving them tika, flower garlands and special foods; and on and looking after yourself, you’re unlikely the third they garland cows both as the symbol of Lakshmi and as the to come down with anything worse than a soul’s guide to Yamarj’s underworld. The festival’s most picturesque event, cold or the local version of “Delhi belly”. Lakshmi Puja, comes on the evening of the third day, when families throughout Nepal ring their homes with oil lamps, candles or electric This section deals with health matters mainly in lights to guide Lakshmi to their homes so she can bless them with the context of Western-style medicine; you could of prosperity for the year. Trusting in her, many Nepalis gamble on street course also turn to traditional ayurvedic or corners, and student groups make the rounds singing “Diusire”, a form Tibetan practices (see p.44). For more detailed of musical fundraising. Firecrackers have also become a big part of advice, refer to our recommended health books the fun for kids. To Newars, the fourth day is known as Mha Puja (see p.424) and websites (see p.53). (“Self-Worship”), an occasion for private rituals, and also their New Year’s Day, marked by banners, well-wishing and motorcycle parades in the Before you go Kathmandu Valley’s three main cities. On the fifth day, Bhaai Tika, sisters recall the myth of Jamuna, who tricked Yamraj into postponing her No inoculations are required for Nepal, but brother’s death indefinitely, by blessing their younger brothers and giving hepatitis A, typhoid and meningitis jabs are recomthem flower garlands, tika and sweetmeats. mended, and it’s worth being up to date with Chhath Coinciding with the third day of Tihaar, this festival honours tetanus, polio, mumps and measles boosters. ipi8hfBu+Fu1Tqp6g5eaALs= Surya, the sun god, and is one of the most important for the Malaria tablets, injections for Japanese B encephMaithili-speaking people of the eastern Terai. Chhath is celebrated most alitis and rabies are also worth considering. All of ardently in Janakpur, where women gather by ponds and rivers to greet these can be obtained in Kathmandu, but it’s better the sun’s first rays with prayers, offerings and ritual baths. to get injections done beforehand. If you have any Mani Rimdu Held at Tengboche and Chiwong monasteries in the medical conditions or concerns about your health, Everest region around the full moon of the ninth Tibetan month (usually don’t set off without seeing a doctor first. Oct/Nov), this colourful Sherpa masked dance dramatizes Buddhism’s Medicines are sold over the counter everywhere, victory over the ancient Bon religion in eighth-century Tibet. A similar but it’s best to bring your prescribed medications. event is held in May or June at Thami. Consider having a dental check-up before you go.


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