CORNER TABLE

Surfside Snug

Toast 2023 by the beautiful sea.

BY COLIN W. SARGENT

Whataplaceto say goodbye to 2022: oceanside at the romantic Union Blu Grill at e Union Blu Hotel in York Beach.

A er the Civil War, tourism was in its infancy. But in short order, rail travel headed directly to Short Sands Beach. It de ned Maine. O ering windswept views of the sandy crescent, the Union Blu House rose to rave reviews in 1868. ere was a boardwalk across the beach in those days. In 1896, the Goldenrod was built at 2 Railroad Avenue (yes, the train stopped just steps away).

A er a 1987 re, a new Union Blu replaced the original with identical signature towers. In December 2021, Giri Hotel Management bought it for $23M and raised the bar for guest goodies and dreamy cuisine. e Union Blu Grill is warm and spacious, the vibe Colonial Revival with teal paneling. We’re in an episode of Will & Grace eating at a cozy restaurant, except it’s us this time and they never had this view. e romantic replace lights up the evening, not just the room. You can see the lights of the beach from almost anywhere in the dining room (we’re in the far back corner). Yes, the hotel also o ers a casual pub across the lobby with wincing sports coverage on multiple TVs, but this still-casual grill with so jazz playing in the background makes a wonderful point of delivering the sense that you’re in the Grand Dame of York Beach.

Since it’s rowback ursday, we start with a Maker’s Mark Manhattan (bright red cherry, $9.50) and a glass of Brickmason Red Blend ($9.50). Next is Lobster & Wild Mushroom Crêpes ($18) “served with sherry cream sauce,” a showstopper. e sauce is close-your-eyes delicious, the crêpes warm, so , and exactingly toasty on the edges. Endive and radicchio salads are apparently having a moment, so we share one of these too, crunchy and seasonal, “tossed with dried cherry, walnuts, and blue cheese dressing” ($14).

How could we not order the sentimental Filet Mignon Diane ($39) “topped with Sauce Diane, served with garlic cream potatoes

Authentic Thai Cooking 865-6005

Dine In • Take-Out

Open 7 Days A Week Lunch & Dinner • Beer & Wine Monday–Saturday 11am–9pm Sunday 4pm–9pm Spice Levels

★ 1 Star: Coward ★★ 2 Stars: Careful ★★★ 3 Stars: Adventurous ★★★★ 4 Stars: Native ★★★★★ 5 Stars: Showoff

491 US Route One, Freeport, Maine 1/2 mile south of Exit 20 (Across from Comfort Suite)

EL RODEO

MEXICAN RESTAURANT

Authentic Mexican Restaurant & Bar Locally Owned and Family Operated

Gift Certifi cates Available

Daily Lunch & Happy Hour Specials Fresh Guacamole • Live Latin Music • Functions Catering • Delivery • Kids Eat Free on Sundays

147 WESTERN AVE., SOUTH PORTLAND • 773-8851

Andy’s Old Port Pub…Best traditional lobster roll on Portland’s waterfront, extraordinary pizza (even create your own!) and pub fare. Local fresh seafood. Live acoustic music. Never a cover. Local brews and waterfront style cocktails, 94 Commercial Street, Portland, 874-2639 Anthony’s Italian Kitchen 30 years of Old World recipes. Best meatballs in town. Mile-high lasagnas, fresh-filled cannoli pastries, 54 sandwiches, pizza. A timeless great family spot. Beer and wine. Free parking. 151 Middle St., Portland, AnthonysItalianKitchen.com, 774-8668. Bandaloop has moved into a restored 1700s barn on Route 1 in Arundel. Since 2004 we have offered locally sourced, globally inspired, organic cuisine. Our new home has plenty of space, parking, outdoor seating, takeout, and an event space in the loft. We continue to offer something for every palate—from vegans to carnivores and everything in between. bandalooprestaurant.com Bruno’s Voted Portland’s Best Italian Restaurant by Market Surveys of America, Bruno’s offers a delicious variety of classic Italian, American, and seafood dishes–and they make all of their pasta in-house. Great sandwiches, pizza, calzones, soups, chowders, and salads. Enjoy lunch or dinner in the dining room or the tavern. Casual dining at its best. 33 Allen Ave., 878-9511

CORNER TABLE

Surfside Snug (continued from page 53) and broccolini.” It’s perfectly cooked, with ever-so-slightly charred edges, and juicy tender on the inside.

But wait, the Pistacchio Salmon ($29) is terri c and almost musically chewy with its “glazed with honey, lemon and Dijon sauce, served with melting potatoes and baby spinach.” What’s better than four stars? We say “Try this!” four times tonight. We linger, order two black co ees, and devour the year’s last slice of blueberry pie à la mode. e pie’s blueberries are the small Maine ones, garnished outside by some larger ones. A blue blend.

More cause for joy: there’s plenty of free parking 50 feet away on the hotel’s private parking lot facing the beach. is is all extremely gracious and easy.

My grandmother, Helen Mills Sargent, was among the early waves of crowds to come here early in the 20th century by the sea, by the sea, by the beautiful sea—by train, with parasol, and in the company of a covey of visiting girls. A er dinner I walk out to the dark beach and spin a shell out into the surf for her. n