CORNER TABLE

Up a Flight

Federal Jack’s rules the winter in Kennebunk.

It ’ s January in K’port, with the sidewalks rolled up and snow piled along the roadways.

BY COLIN W. SARGENT

What an alternate-narrative movie this would make, with its “low-tide dolor”—a phrase of Robert Lowell’s. Federal Jack’s would have to star as the second- oor, above-the-fray watering hole in such a lm. Its sparkling views of the river are worth the drive from anywhere.

Local knowledge guides us to arrive on a Monday night, with parking available right beside the entrance in both the front and back lots. Our car door pops open, and there it is: the wintry hush over the city that is stopped in time. We rush up the staircase, not pausing long enough to let the weather even touch us, and with a welcoming whoosh the double doors swing open and transport us into a vaulted room with impressive exposed beams. e smiling host beckons us to a spot right by the window with a dazzling view of the sleeping town. We take in the twinkles of Kennebunkport’s bridge, the old Lyric eatre where I once watched Dr. Zhivago, and the river, background music for my eyes. I don’t want to be anywhere else right now.

Weather permitting, there’s panoramic outside seating from the second oor (lo y blonde beams, lots of glass and chrome), but the spacious indoor seats by the big windows put us right on top of the water like we’re on the prow of a boat. It may be icy cold outside, but we’re comfy and warm.

PERFECT PAIRINGS Rarely do I put “pub food” and “divine” in the same sentence, but that’s the case here. It’s “Some Kind of Wonderful,” like the music thumping in the background. We share tonight’s special, the Fire-

Roasted Corn Chowder with herbs and cornbread ($11), a hot, zesty bowl that’s perfectly sweet and spiced. It

“pairs well with Old umper” (since we’re on the spot where Shipyard

Brewing Co. was born, the menu recommends a beer pairing for each dish), but because I’d discussed Irish co ee with a friend today, I want one desperately to keep the cozy warmth going.

It does the trick! We also order the extremely generous BSB Brown Sugar

Bourbon and Cold Cider ($12), which leads us to order and share the Winter Salad: cranberries, pepitas, maple applecider vinaigrette dressing, bacon, and goat cheese ($15).

On to the Fish & Chips ($23.50) I’ve been craving. I tear into it, and it’s a home run, with hot, so , almost u y haddock. e other main course we tack into is the dazzling Cajun Shrimp and Grits ($25): nine perfectly charred medium shrimp with a hint of citrus, embellished with thin strips of red peppers and green onions on a cloud of grits. Both dishes are so large we order takeout boxes.

Winter, bring it! n