From Madeira with Love:
Stunning views, average food, and heart-stopping experiences Story and photos by Beth Thomas-Kin
Ever since moving to Portugal, Won and I have wanted to visit the Madeira islands. It’s super easy and fast to get there from Lisbon. The flight only takes an hour and a half. We planned to spend four nights, arriving the afternoon of Thursday, November 11, and departing the afternoon of Monday, November 15. Won booked a suite in a small boutique hotel called Caju Le Petit Hotel located in the old part of Funchal, the capital of Madeira. Hotel Caju was an absolute delight! The staff were helpful, responsive, and genuinely friendly. While there, we learned that caju means cashew. The Madeira Islands, collectively referred to as Madeira, is one of two autonomous regions of Portugal, the other being the Azores. Together with the mainland, they form the Republic of Portugal. Madeira is in the North Atlantic Ocean, about 520 kilometers (320 mi) west of Morocco. It has a warm, subtropical climate and is known for its namesake wine. The main island of Madeira is volcanic, green, and rugged, with high cliffs and pebbly beaches. One of the most interesting features of Madeira is its tunnels. There are more than 150, and we heard from a local that it is now up to 178; but I couldn’t validate that. The island’s nickname is “Swiss Cheese” because of the number of tunnels that enable one to get around quickly and easily. 42 Portugal Living Magazine
Madeira Coastline After we unpacked and grabbed a bite to eat at the hotel café, we headed out to explore on foot. We were within walking distance of the harbor, so we made that our destination. On our way, we passed a charming public park, numerous restaurants, businesses, shops, and more cafés. The architecture, narrow pedestrian streets, and hilly topography reminded us of Porto in some areas. The harbor and surrounding area were bustling. Why? A gigantic cruise ship was docked in the harbor (a new ship arrives every day except Sunday). We learned later that more than 50% of the jobs on the island relate to tourism. That, in combination with significant EU investment, has enabled the island to improve its infrastructure, specifically with new tunnels, roads, bridges, aqueducts, public spaces, and the restoration of important buildings. While there is much that is good when it comes to tourism, the unfortunate side is that the charming old town is changing to deal with the volume of tourists and their tastes and preferences. We saw this primarily in the food (it wasn’t inspired, interesting, or memorable). I think this was particularly obvious to us coming directly from the mainland where we have rarely had a bland or negative food experience. This really surprised us.
After taking advantage of the much-appreciated, healthy breakfast options at the hotel the next morning, we were New tunnel under construction excited to get going. First stop
