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Contents 4 Introduction 6 Analyzing Wine 7 How To Taste Wine 10 Storage 13 Chardonnay 14 Gewürztraminer 17 Pinot Gris 18 Riesling 21 Sauvignon Blanc 24 Viognier 26 Cabernet Sauvignon 31 Cabernet Franc 32 Merlot 35 Malbec 36 Pinot Noir 39 Sangiovese 40 Syrah 42 Zinfandel
This guide is published by
Publisher Rob Lightfoot Creative Team Editor Jeremy Derksen Creative & Design Charlie Biddiscombe Photos Brenda Lakeman Words Mel Priestley Riedel Stemware provided by The Wine Cellar © 2014 Postvue Publishing
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INTRODUCTION I’m often approached by new wine enthusiasts who want to learn more about wine but just aren’t sure how to go about it. Given the huge amount of information available and the sheer size of the world’s wine industry, it’s not surprising when novices are completely overwhelmed – and even experienced wine drinkers will occasionally find themselves in need of a quick reminder of some of the details. This guide offers a solution to both dilemmas as it is designed to be an efficient, handy reference for wine drinkers of all levels. It is essentially a road map of the world’s major grape varieties, as well as a brief primer on (or reminder of) wine basics. While there are literally thousands of grape varieties in the world, the 14 included here represent the majority of those most commonly found on the Canadian market. It is my sincere hope that you will use this guide as a jumping off point for your further exploration into the world of wine. There is so much to learn and the wine world is always changing; I’ve been a wine writer and certified sommelier for over five years and I’m still constantly discovering new things. Above all, I hope you find this guide useful, practical and entertaining. Cheers! Mel Priestley melpriestley.ca
CHARDONNAY
malolactic fermentation.
LEGEND
Sommelier’s Notes
second most-planted there’s a good reason it’s the world’s Chardonnay is an easy grape to like; styles, from dry and crisp be made into a number of different white grape variety. Chardonnay can flavours of tropical fruit, minerals, to rich and creamy with by whether or not with flavours of apple, lemon and toast. Much of this difference is determinedit in oak barrels. butterscotch, vanilla and buttered aging can occur through fermenting and/or lightly oaked, in the wine is exposed to oak, which Chablis, is usually unoaked or only The classic French version of Chardonnay, bracing) core of acidity and crisp flavours. In of vanilla, order to showcase its refreshing (sometimes to impart additional characteristics oaked often is Chardonnay contrast, Californian butter and toasty smoke. with oak aging. fermentation, often in conjunction Many Chardonnays also undergo malolactic being when the fruit juice was initially converted primary This is a secondary fermentation (the malic acid into creamy lactic acid, apple-like green tart, wine’s the into alcohol) that converts wine-producing country Chardonnay is made in every major giving it a buttery quality. Because terms: oak, barrel aging, check the label for the identifying in a wide range of styles, be sure to
Each wine profile page features useful information on serving and pairing, with helpful icons and a photo showing the proper stemware and proper pour level for that particular wine.
Raw Oysters Crab Cakes
Lemon Chicken Lobster With Butter
Meats
Other Dishes
Cheeses
Suggested Temperature
Asiago Havarti Provolone Gruyere
Macaroni And Cheese
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ANALYZING WINE Wine is comprised of several components that greatly impact its flavour. Being able to recognize and analyze each component is indispensable in deepening your wine tasting expertise.
FRUIT
Most wines smell and taste fruity, so it’s important to narrow down. Start general and get more specific: first try to identify a particular group of fruit (tropical, berry, citrus, tree) and then go through specific types: if it is citrusy, is it more like lemons, oranges, limes or grapefruit?
OAK
Not all wines have oaky aromas or flavours because not all wines are subjected to oak (during fermentation and/or barrel aging). Two types are commonly used in winemaking: American oak, which gives pronounced vanilla aromas; and French oak, which gives toasty spice aromas.
EARTH
Earthy flavours in wine include damp gravel, forest floor, pine, mushrooms and sometimes even barnyard. Earthiness is usually a secondary characteristic, but sometimes it can dominate - particularly in European and older wines.
ACIDITY
A wine’s acidity causes a rush of saliva in your mouth and is necessary to balance any residual sweetness; low acid wines can taste flabby and unfocused. High acid wines are usually food-friendly, as the acidity cleanses your palate and makes you want another bite.
TANNIN
Tannins derive mainly from grape skins and seeds, so the wines highest in tannin are dark, full-bodied reds; they are not usually present in white wine. Tannins are responsible for a wine’s dryness, as they literally suck all the moisture out of your mouth and leave it feeling raspy and dry. As wines age, the tannins mellow out and become softer.
ALCOHOL
Alcohol is perceived as heat on the palate, leaving your mouth feeling hot and boozy. It also contributes body, making the wine feel fuller and richer and giving the impression of sweetness.
SUGAR
All wine has some residual sugar, though it’s usually unnoticeable in dry table wines. It is important for the wine to have enough acidity to counterbalance any detectable sweetness. Otherwise the wine will be cloyingly sweet and leave your mouth feeling unpleasantly fuzzy.
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HOW TO TASTE WINE There’s no magical secret to tasting wine and you don’t have to possess superhuman skills to do it - you just need to pay attention to all five of your senses. Grab a glass and let’s get started.
LOOK
Note the wine’s colour, then tilt the glass over something white and check out the variation in hue between the middle to the edge - the greater this variation, the older the wine usually is. Both white and red wines turn brownish with age.
SMELL
Give the wine a sniff and note the most obvious aromas. Then give it a swirl (keep the base of the glass against the table if you’re nervous about spilling) and take another whiff. Compare the difference: not only does swirling greatly increase the intensity of aromas but it also releases new ones that weren’t detectable initially.
TASTE
Take a sip of the wine and use it like mouthwash to rinse out any residual tastes on your palate. Now take another sip and draw in a bit of air as well, which will make a funny gurgling sound. This is the classic wine tasting move that’s parodied in movies and television, but it actually serves a real purpose: 75 per cent of taste is contributed by smell, so sucking in air fully engages your nose and reveals a wider range of flavours.
FEEL
The feel of a wine in your mouth is as important as the wine’s flavours, as several components of wine are actually tactile sensations: acidity, tannins, alcohol and sugar all have very different effects on your palate. See the opposite page for more information about analyzing these sensations.
LISTEN
Review the descriptors you picked out at each previous step and compare them with the comments of your fellow tasters or a wine reference book. Ultimately it’s your own opinion, but keeping your mind (and ears) open will increase your knowledge and tasting aptitude.
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WINE STORAGE It’s easy to overlook the place where you store your wine, but you should avoid a few terrible spots that can damage a bottle of wine before it’s ever opened. Avoid exposing wine to heat, light and rapid temperature fluctuations, and try to keep the bottles lying on their side so that the corks don’t dry out and let in oxygen. Here’s a brief overview of the best and worst places in your house for storing wine:
KITCHENS: BAD
The kitchen is the worst place to store wine, yet it’s probably the default choice for many people. Kitchens are too hot and bright; never put wine above the fridge, stove, dishwasher or any other appliance as they give off lots of heat, which can oxidize or otherwise damage the wine. Even countertop wine racks aren’t a good idea because kitchens get very warm when you’re cooking, plus wine bottles should be kept away from light.
BASEMENTS: GOOD
A cool, dark basement is a very good place to stash your wine. Just make sure to keep them away from drafty windows, the furnace and other appliances.
GARAGES: BAD
The temperature in a garage fluctuates too much for it to be a good wine storage place. They are also usually unheated, which means if you forget the wines over the winter you’ll end up with a bunch of frozen (and probably broken) bottles.
BEDROOM: GOOD
It might seem strange to stash wine in your bedroom closet, but this is a pretty good spot since it is dark and typically remains at a comfortable temperature.
WINE REFRIGERATORS: BEST
Investing in a wine fridge is a great idea if you’re an avid wine drinker, as these fridges keep bottles at a constant optimal temperature. There are several expensive versions available on the market, as well as many very reasonably priced ones available at housewares stores.
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CHARDONNAY
Many Chardonnays also undergo malolactic fermentation, often in conjunction with oak aging. This is a secondary fermentation (the primary being when the fruit juice was initially converted into alcohol) that converts the wine’s tart, green apple-like malic acid into creamy lactic acid, giving it a buttery quality. Because Chardonnay is made in every major wine-producing country in a wide range of styles, be sure to check the label for the identifying terms: oak, barrel aging, malolactic fermentation.
Sommelier’s Notes
Chardonnay is an easy grape to like; there’s a good reason it’s the world’s second most-planted white grape variety. Chardonnay can be made into a number of different styles, from dry and crisp with flavours of apple, lemon and minerals, to rich and creamy with flavours of tropical fruit, butterscotch, vanilla and buttered toast. Much of this difference is determined by whether or not the wine is exposed to oak, which can occur through fermenting and/or aging it in oak barrels. The classic French version of Chardonnay, Chablis, is usually unoaked or only lightly oaked, in order to showcase its refreshing (sometimes bracing) core of acidity and crisp flavours. In contrast, Californian Chardonnay is often oaked to impart additional characteristics of vanilla, butter and toasty smoke.
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Sommelier’s Notes
GEWÜRZTRAMINER Explosively aromatic, Gewürztraminer is instantly recognizable - even the smallest sniff is like plunging your nose into a bunch of roses. Gewürztraminers from the Alsace region of France are especially noted for their perfumed, concentrated aromas and exuberant flavours of lychee nuts, fruit cocktail syrup, spice, honeysuckle, vanilla and Turkish delight. Though all that fruitiness might have you thinking the wine is sweet, this isn’t usually true as the vast majority of Gewürztraminer is made in a dry style. The best examples are from cooler climates like Alsace, which allow the grapes to retain their naturally low acidity enough to balance their massive body and boisterous flavours. Alsace also makes a particularly celebrated, albeit rare, version of Gewürztraminer as a sweet dessert wine, either as Vendange Tardive (made from late-harvest grapes) or Sélection de Grains Nobles (made from grapes exposed to botrytis or noble rot). Germany produces a few lovely, more subdued versions of Gewürztraminer, and the variety has also taken hold in Canada, New Zealand and the United States.
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PINOT GRIS
The Italian version of Pinot Gris is usually a simple, crisp white wine with refreshing citrus flavours and a backbone of zingy acidity. In France’s Alsace region, however, Pinot Gris takes on a completely different personality; much like the other wines from this part of the world, Pinot Gris from Alsace has a voluptuous body and flamboyant aromas of pear and baking spices. Elsewhere, Pinot Gris is made in a range of styles that fall somewhere in between these two extremes, with most leaning towards the Pinot Grigio end of the spectrum. Accordingly, North American versions of this variety are frequently - but not always - labeled under the grape’s Italian name.
Sommelier’s Notes
Perhaps the quintessential summer patio wine, Pinot Gris is well-known by its Italian name, Pinot Grigio. This variety has French origins, however, likely originating from the Burgundy region as an ancient mutation of Pinot Noir. Notorious for being genetically unstable, Pinot Noir has spawned several other grape varieties including Pinot Blanc, Pinot Meunier and Pinotage.
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Sommelier’s Notes
RIESLING Many people associate Riesling with being very sweet, owing to the past popularity of wines like Piesporter, Black Tower and Blue Nun. While Riesling does have a tendency to be off-dry, well-made versions will balance residual sugar with zesty acidity – zesty acidity, making Riesling a champion of food pairing. The quintessential Riesling aroma is petrol, similar to the smell of rubber boots, beach balls, or even gasoline. While this may sound off-putting, rest assured that it is much tastier than it sounds; Riesling also has lovely aromas and flavours of apples, stone fruit, flowers and citrus fruit. Riesling’s home territory is Germany, where it is usually made in off-dry to fairly sweet styles. Navigating German wine labels is a daunting challenge for English-speakers, but there are a few key terms to learn that will tell you how sweet a bottle of German Riesling is: Trocken is dry or almost dry, Kabinett is off-dry, Spätlese means half-sweet and Auslese is quite sweet. Elsewhere Riesling is made in both dry and off-dry styles. In particular, the versions from Australia’s Clare and Eden Valleys are lovely, usually dry with high acidity and a zesty lime and mineral streak. New Zealand’s Canterbury region and Canada’s Niagara and Okanagan regions also make notable Rieslings.
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PAIRING SENSATIONS
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SAUVIGNON BLANC
The other standard-bearer for Sauvignon Blanc is New Zealand, which makes a very different version of the grape; from this part of the world Sauvignon Blanc tends to be overtly fruity with intense aromas of passion fruit, pink grapefruit and peaches, along with some of those classic green aromas. Elsewhere, Sauvignon Blanc is quite common, especially in California where it is sometimes called Fumé Blanc.
Sommelier’s Notes
Scents are an important part of the wine experience, so the suggestion that certain Sauvignon Blanc wines carry a certain whiff of acrid, vinegar-like odour may be enough to turn some off this variety. But don’t let it deter you from trying a glass, or you’ll be missing out on a wonderfully refreshing white wine. Sauvignon Blanc originates in France, specifically the Loire Valley, where it is still made into a lemony citrus wine with very high acidity and a distinct “green” quality, akin to freshly cut grass, spring herbs and gooseberries. Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are the most famous Loire Valley appellations that make Sauvignon Blanc; this variety is also used, along with Semillon, to make white Bordeaux.
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Sommelier’s Notes
VIOGNIER Once relatively scarce outside of its home territory in the northern Rhône region of France, Viognier returned from near-extinction in the 1990s with plantings that sprung up around the world, notably in California and Australia. Viognier thrives in these places because of their warm climate; Viognier vines are drought-resistant and require a lot of heat to ripen fully and give the grapes their characteristic pungent aromas of honeysuckle, apricot and tropical fruit, along with a round body and rich, oily texture. A curious practice involves adding a dash of Viognier to red wine, especially Syrah/Shiraz. Viognier lends its exotic aromas without muddying up the palate, and it also enhances the colour of red wine. Several Australian producers have embraced this technique, though it started in France when producers in the Rhône Valley added Viognier to that region’s Syrah-based reds. French Viognier is often blended with other white Rhône varieties like Roussanne, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc, though there are two appellations that only make 100 per cent Viognier: Condrieu and Château Grillet.
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Sommelier’s Notes
CABERNET SAUVIGNON Cabernet Sauvignon is dubbed the “king of grapes” for good reason. No other grape can surpass its vast range of quality, structure and longevity - it can be made into everything from mediocre table wine to richly-structured powerhouses that age gracefully for decades. Cabernet Sauvignon embodies the quintessential aromas and flavours that we’ve come to associate with red wine: blackberry, black currant, plum, eucalyptus, cedar and leather. Cabernet Sauvignon’s traditional home is France, where it is most famous as the predominant variety used in red Bordeaux. It can also be found throughout the Languedoc, Loire Valley and southwestern regions of France. We wouldn’t call it king if it wasn’t celebrated everywhere, however, and accordingly it has spread throughout the rest of the world. It is particularly beloved in California, where it is the most planted grape variety and is made into high-octane wines with powerful jammy flavours and high alcohol, though top wines will also display a similar finesse and elegance as top-quality Bordeaux.
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CABERNET FRANC
Cabernet Franc often has aromas and flavours that are notably “green” or herbaceous – think green bell pepper or fresh herbs. This quality can be overwhelming and unpleasant when the wine lacks fruit flavours to support all that greenness, but well-made examples are balanced by plenty of plum and dark red fruits; over time the fruit mellows into lighter hints of wild strawberry and raspberry. Being an overlooked variety has a few advantages, however - often Cabernet Franc is more reasonably priced (and therefore a better value) than more popular varieties.
Sommelier’s Notes
From the name you’d guess that Cabernet Franc is related to the ubiquitous Cabernet Sauvignon, and you’d be right - Cabernet Franc is actually one parent of Cabernet Sauvignon, the other being the white variety Sauvignon Blanc. Cabernet Franc almost always plays second fiddle to its much more famous offspring: in its home territory of France, Cabernet Franc plays a vital but secondary role in red Bordeaux (with the notable exception of the famous Château Cheval Blanc, which is predominantly Cabernet Franc). This trend continues into the New World’s version of Bordeauxstyle blends, which are often called Meritage. But a few places in the world do put Cabernet Franc in the spotlight: France’s Loire Valley, notably the Chinon region, as well as Washington, New Zealand and Canada’s Niagara region (where it is a major grape in icewine production as well as dry table wine).
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Sommelier’s Notes
MERLOT Merlot means “little blackbird” in French, though “little Cabernet” might be more appropriate Merlot can taste very similar to Cabernet Sauvignon, which might be why it also finds its most famous incarnation in France’s Bordeaux region. Merlot is usually softer and plumper than Cabernet Sauvignon, with flavours of plums, blackberries, baked cherries and mocha. The two grapes make natural partners and are often blended together in wines from regions throughout the world, from Bordeaux to Australia. However, plenty of Merlot is also made as a single varietal wine, especially throughout North and South America. These wines can be banal but are usually enjoyable for their easy-drinking straightforwardness. California produces gallons of Merlot, both as a varietal wine and as a part of various blends, including the New World’s answer to Bordeaux: Meritage (which is a blend of the red Bordeaux grapes: Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc, Merlot and, rarely, Malbec and Petit Verdot). Chile has also emerged as a leading Merlot producer, where it is sometimes blended with that country’s signature red grape, Carménère.
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MALBEC Currently one of the most popular red grape varieties, the craze for Malbec started in the early twenty-first century and is still going strong. Malbec originally hails from France’s Bordeaux region, where it is still one of the six permitted varieties for red Bordeaux. However, it usually only comprises a tiny percentage of those wines, if it is used at all - frost destroyed 75 per cent of Bordeaux’s Malbec vines in the winter of 1956 and the variety was never replanted to the same extent.
Sommelier’s Notes
Instead, Malbec found a celebrated position as Argentina’s flagship wine. Here it is made into a true crowd-pleaser with ripe fruit flavours of plum and blueberry, with herbal spice undertones and a full, velvety body. Malbec still dominates in one region of France, Cahors, where it is made into wines that stand in sharp contrast to those from Argentina: in previous decades the English referred to Cahors as “the black wine,” so named for its inky dark colour and teeth-staining rustic tannins. However, the popularity of the easygoing Argentinean style has caused several producers in Cahors to craft wines that are a bit lighter and more approachable at a younger age. Elsewhere, a handful of wineries have also started experimenting with the variety, but so far none have captured that same degree of instant gratification that makes Argentinean Malbec so satisfying.
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PINOT NOIR
Sommelier’s Notes
Pinot Noir is infamous as one of the most difficult grapes to make into good wine, as well as the grape behind some of the most revered (and expensive) wines in the entire world. The grape’s classic home is in the Burgundy region of France, one of the world’s oldest wine regions - Pinot Noir has been cultivated here since at least the fourth century AD. Because Pinot Noir is so dependent on the climate and weather to grow well (even a bit of rain during harvest can ruin the entire vintage), there are fairly big shifts in Burgundy’s quality from year to year: a great vintage will age for upwards of 20 years, while a bad one yields wines that are mediocre at best. Outside of France, Pinot Noir has found a welcome second home in New Zealand, which has a maritime climate that makes for much greater consistency between vintages. Pinot Noir’s characteristic flavours include warm cherries and plums with a signature earthy, sometimes gamey quality akin to damp earth, mushrooms, worn leather and even sweat; these characteristics are most common in Burgundy, however, and New Zealand versions tend to be very fruit-forward with bright flavours of fresh strawberries predominating. Despite Pinot Noir’s notoriety, many producers around the world have tried their hand at growing it and certain small pockets have found great success. In particular, Canada’s Niagara and Okanagan regions make lovely, elegant Pinot Noir, as do Oregon’s Columbia and Willamette Valleys. No matter where it is grown, Pinot Noir usually retains its naturally high acidity, which makes it one of the most versatile, food-friendly wines.
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SANGIOVESE
Increasingly, Sangiovese is also being partnered with French grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, both in Chianti as well as in the sought-after “Super Tuscan” wines - however, in order to be labeled under the Chianti name, the wine must be comprised of at least 75 per cent Sangiovese, while Super Tuscan wines are an unofficial designation and therefore can include any amount (or none at all) of Sangiovese.
Sommelier’s Notes
Literally meaning “blood of Jove,” Sangiovese is Italy’s most famous grape and is planted in abundance, especially throughout Tuscany. It is the grape behind three of the greatest Tuscan wines: Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino. Sangiovese has many different genetic variations (called clones), which makes for a wide variety in style between bottles, especially in conjunction with Tuscany’s huge array of microclimates. However, most Sangiovese presents flavours of fresh-baked cherry pie and dried plum, with firm tannins and high acidity. With age it gains additional characteristics including dried leaf, tea, mocha and dried orange peel. These secondary characteristics are most prominent in Brunello di Montalcino, which is arguably Sangiovese’s finest expression; Brunello is earthy and rich and capable of cellaring for many years. In contrast, Chianti tends to be fruity and bright, ready to drink at a much younger age. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, one of Italy’s oldest wines, walks the line between the style and flavours of Chianti and Brunello.
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Sommelier’s Notes
SYRAH They may have different names, but Syrah is actually the very same grape as Shiraz. Syrah originally hails from the Rhône Valley in France, where it is blended with other red varieties to make wines with a spicy black pepper streak and earthy aromas overlaying a core of ripe blackberry. On the other side of the globe, Syrah found a welcome home in Australia when it was brought over from France in 1831 by James Busby (the so-called “Father of Australian viticulture”) and christened with a new name, Shiraz. While it’s a very different beast than French Syrah, there’s no denying the mass appeal of Australian Shiraz’s intense fruitiness and syrupy texture; this grape variety almost singlehandedly solidified Australia’s position in the wine world ever since its explosion in popularity during the 1990s. All this attention caused winemakers around the world to make their own version of the grape, and it is now a common fixture in dozens of different wine regions. Depending on the producer’s own preference the wines are sold under either of the grape’s two names, though Shiraz tends to be more common on North American wine labels.
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Sommelier’s Notes
ZINFANDEL A red grape variety indigenous to Italy, Zinfandel features red and black fruit flavours that are so ripe it’s almost like drinking jam. Typical flavours include sun-warmed cherries, ripe plums, blackberries and raisins, along with cocoa and sometimes even caramel nuances. Zinfandel also tends to have the highest alcohol content of all wine as it loves to grow in warm climates; this causes the grapes to become very ripe and high in sugar, which translates to higher alcohol in the finished wine. Zinfandel rose to fame in California as one of the first European varieties that were planted there in the early 1800s. It eventually fell out of favour and Prohibition almost eradicated it completely until recent years, which have seen it return to prominence as one of California’s signature red wines. Zinfandel also gained notoriety as White Zinfandel, a low quality blush wine popular in North America but which bears very little resemblance to the true red version of the grape. In Italy, Zinfandel is mostly grown in the Puglia region (the heel of Italy’s boot). Here it is called Primitivo and was thought to be a separate variety until DNA profiling in the 1990s revealed that it was identical to Californian Zinfandel.
beef spareribs glazed pork chops spicy sausage roast turkey
blue cheese aged cheddar parmesan asiago
grilled bell peppers pizza
12°C 42
brazinwine.com Calgary 2014 Wine Guide
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