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Edmonton 2014 Coffee Guide
LEVA Coffee Pizza Wine
CafeLeva.com
11053 86 Ave 780.479.5382 info@cafeleva.com @cafeleva @LevaCafe Edmonton 2014 Coffee Guide
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Edmonton 2013/14 Wine Guide
Contents
6 Introduction 9 History 10 Cultivation 13 Varietals 14 - 15 Roasting 16 Storing 18 - 19 Grinding 20 Brewing 22 Tasting 25 Nicaragua 28 El Salvador 31 Guatemala 32 Colombia 35 Brazil 36 Bolivia 39 Kenya 40 Ethiopia 43 Indonesia 44 Papua New Guinea 49 Thailand 50 India
This guide is published by
Publisher Rob Lightfoot Editor Jeremy Derksen Sales Representatives Andy Cookson, James Jarvis, Dale Cory Creative Team Creative & Design Charlie Biddiscombe Photos Brenda Lakeman Words Quentin Ranson
On page 20, Bunn Machine provided by Tea and Coffee Company All other machines and coffee provided by Caffe Tech
© 2014 Postvue Publishing All Rights Reserved, Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited without the written consent of the publisher. Postvue Publishing #200, 11230 119 St. Edmonton, AB. • T5G 2X3 Ph: 780.426.1996 • rob@postvuepublishing.com
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Introduction Wake up, wash up, drink coffee. Traditionally, coffee has been part of a routine, a ‘kickstart’, a means to ready for the day ahead. For my parents it was the drink that always “smells so much better than it tastes.” In their generation toasted, bitter and flat coffees ruled the pot. But something has happened to coffee in the last 20 years. ‘Aroma’, ‘crema’, ‘notes’, ‘fair trade’, ‘shade-grown’ and ‘organic’ are all words you might hear in conversations about coffee today. We not only talk about flavour, but more and more we talk about where the coffee came from, how it was grown and who grew it. The driving force behind this has been the slow introduction of higher quality arabica beans, improved care and attention to roasting and a rising awareness of where our coffee comes from. This is a guide for a new generation of coffee lover. It is intended to be a glimpse into the history, biology, industry and artistry that makes for a good cup of coffee. Moreover, it should be a quick reference to an even better coffee experience. It is my sincere hope that this guide will be a useful introduction into the rich and nuanced world of coffee. Quentin Ranson
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History
Scientific name
jasminum arabicum laurifolia
Origin… Ethiopia, southwestern highlands According to legend, coffee was discovered by an Ethiopian goatherd who observed his flock eating the red cherries of the coffee tree.
10th century – First recorded use, by nomadic Ethiopian herdsmen who ate the red cherry whole. 15th century Sufi monks from the city of Mocha, Yemen, bring coffee to the Middle East. 16th century – Turkish clerics condemn Constantinople’s emerging coffee house culture. 17th century – Coffee makes its way to Europe via Venetian ports. European coffee houses flourish, becoming a gathering place for intellectuals, artists and merchants (e.g. Lloyds of London). 18th - 19th century – European traders spread cultivation to Asia, the Caribbean, Central and South America.
Today…
• Grown in over 50 countries • Worldwide, over 25 million farmers harvest coffee • Second most valuable traded commodity in the world, after petroleum
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Cultivation
where's the
BEAN?
Growing climate Latitude - Coffee trees like to grow roughly between the tropics of Cancer and Capricorn, or 30 degrees north and 30 degrees south of the equator.
The coffee ‘bean’ is the seed at the centre of the red cherry that grows on the coffee tree.
Altitude - While the less flavourful robusta variety can grow at lower altitudes and in a wider range of temperatures, arabica trees require higher altitudes to thrive. The most flavourful arabica beans grow between 3000-6000 feet. Many coffee connoisseurs feel the finest coffees grow above 4000 feet, with the most nuanced flavours emerging at an altitude of 6000 feet.
Soil - Soil content has a significant effect on flavour and quality. Many of the world’s most prized beans are harvested from fertile volcanic regions above 4000 feet.
Temperature - At higher altitudes, temperatures average 20 degrees Celsius. The cooler temperatures result in a slower growing cycle which in turn yields more complex sugars and typically, more complex flavours.
Yield - Growing at higher altitudes is risky as coffee can’t tolerate frost. Yields are often much lower for high altitude arabica beans. This is why coffees grown on the high volcanic slopes of Ethiopia, Kenya, Guatemala and New Guinea can fetch a hefty price.
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Highlands Business District Discover these small businesses and more in Edmonton’s hidden gem - Historic Highlands Browse through our large selection of quality used books while enjoying a delicious coffee, latte or espresso.
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Varietals Arabica vs robusta
The two most widely used species of coffee bean are arabica and robusta. Robusta is the less valued bean found in mass-produced commercial brands and local gas stations. It is hardy and produces a high yield. However, it offers a very limited flavour profile. Arabica beans offer up the rich, varied flavours coffee lovers prize. Every palate is different, but you will know you have quality arabica beans when you are not overwhelmed by bitterness and sensations such as chocolate, bake bread, smoky, nutty or even fruity flavours roll over your palate.
Single origin vs blend Beans from a particular farming estate and consisting of one specific arabica varietal are referred to as ‘single origin’ beans, distinguishing them from ‘blends’ of two or more varietals from different regions.
Varietals (Arabica)
Arabica varietals can be roughly likened to the different varietals of wine grapes. Coffee growers take great care to match the soil, climate, season, humidity and harvesting technique to nurture the best beans. There are over 1000 known arabica varietals. Here are the three most influential.
Typica • Origin: Kaffa, Ethiopia - birthplace of arabica coffee. • Cultivation: produces some of the most recognized coffees such as Jamaican Blue Mountain, Java and Villalobos. • Flavour profile: sweet, full-bodied with warm, chocolatey and nutty highlights.
Bourbon • Origin: Reunion Island (formerly Bourbon Island), east of Madagascar in the Indian Ocean. • Cultivation: successfully grown in Central America and Kenya at higher altitudes of 3,500 feet to 6,000 feet. • Flavour profile: complex acidity, well-rounded balance of flavours, often slightly tart or citrusy. Highly prized.
Ethiopia Heirloom • Origin: Ethiopia • Cultivation: Mostly Ethiopia and Yemen; some varietals cultivated in the New World and Asia. • Flavour profile: a highly aromatic bean with floral and berry highlights, warm chocolatey undertone. Edmonton 2014 Coffee Guide
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Roasting
art
the of coffee processing
Roasters devote great care to achieve what they perceive as the ideal roast. Under-roasted coffees will lack character and flavour. Over-roasted coffees can taste like burned toast, lacking the body of a good cup. As the roast darkens, caffeine content diminishes. Roasts can have a wide variety of descriptions but they are most commonly classified as light, medium or dark.
Roasting temperature: 195 – 205 C Colour/complexion: light to moderate brown, slightly mottled Ideal for the adventurous coffee drinker looking to taste something new in every cup. The lightest beans have a toasted wheat aroma and a subtle, almost tea-like quality. You’ll notice tart or citrus-like acidity, broad floral or fruity flavours and rich earthy and nutty tones. To experience what aficionados refer to as the ‘origin profile’ or truly distinctive flavours and qualities of the bean, seek beans that are moderately brown in colour. However, this roast lacks the familiar toasted quality of darker coffees.
Roasting temperature: 210 – 225 C Colour/complexion: medium to medium-dark brown This is the middle ground between the distinctive and diverse flavours of the light roast and the full and toasted features of the dark roast. While much of the original flavour has been preserved, you can now also start to detect the roasted character. The darker the bean, the more the roasted flavours will start to dominate the cup. Many specialty coffee houses will sell their beans as a medium roast.
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Roasting temperature: 225 – 250 C Colour/complexion: dark brown to black The heavy, strong toasted character of the coffee— simmering with deep caramel flavours and bittersweetness—dominates the cup. The darkest roasts can have a smoky or even burnt quality to them. The higher roasting temperatures force the oil in the core of the bean to the surface, causing an oily sheen. Because much of the original flavour has now been eclipsed by the roast, you won’t notice a great deal of difference between beans from different regions or varietals. Seek out different degrees of roast or look for dark roasts that have been blended with medium roasts for a more nuanced flavour.
Note: While espresso roasts are commonly identified with dark-roasted beans, any roast can be used to create an espresso shot and many espressos are blends of beans of different roasts and varietals.
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Storing
like all fresh foods, COFFEE doesn’t last FOREVER. These basic storage tips will help you preserve freshness longer, for better tasting brews.
Use fresh beans, freshly ground. Beans are ideally consumed within one week of roasting. Grind beans just before brewing for the best flavour.
Store in an airtight container. Use a glass or ceramic container with an airtight lid to prevent exposure to moisture and to prevent it from getting stale.
Keep in a dark, cool place. Keep your coffee away from direct sunlight and far from kitchen heat sources, such as cupboards adjacent to the oven. Avoid the fridge and freezer because too much moisture will be drawn into the beans.
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Grinding For ideal freshness and flavour, beans should be ground immediately before brewing. A burr or mill grinder will give you an even grind and is a quick and easy way to grind your beans. Blade grinders are less preferable because you will get an uneven grind and the excessive heat from the device can start to over-roast the beans. If you don’t have access to a grinder, try to buy whole beans and have them ground where you buy them. Most supermarkets and coffee shops offer free grinding.
Pour-over Filter Grind: medium or fine (a finer grind will give a stronger flavour) The pour-over method offers precise filtration without the oiliness and gritty texture that can come with a French Press. The carafe cools quickly so best to drink it right away.
Grind Type: Medium or Fine a coarse beach sand or granulated sugar texture
Drip Coffee Makers Grind: medium Reliable for brewing small or large quantities. Nearly boiling water percolates over the grounds for a set time (usually five minutes), then filters through a cone or flat-bottom filter. But take care—if the pot sits too long, it will acquire a burnt taste.
Grind Type: Medium gritty, almost sand-like texture
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Espresso Machines Grind: extra fine A pump forces hot water through the grinds (usually 20-30 seconds) for an intense, flavourful brew with a more dense texture than regular brews. For a fine crema on the coffee or perfectly foamed milk for your cappuccino you may want to invest in a higher end machine.
Grind Type: Extra Fine even finer than granulated sugar, almost powdery
French Press Grind: coarse Hot water is poured over the grounds and brewed 4 - 6 minutes. Best to stir to improve perfusion. Once brewed, the metal plunger is used to “press� the grounds, filtering the coffee. Drink immediately.
Grind Type: Coarse chunky, irregular, large grains about the size of coarse salt
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Brewing
choose your own brew There is no shortage of brewing methods, each with their unique benefits. However, following a few simple rules will ensure you get the best possible cup, no matter which you use.
Water – wherever possible use filtered water to avoid residual tastes (chlorination, seasonal scents) that may affect flavour. Ratio – one to two tablespoons of ground coffee for every six ounces of water, to individual taste. Too high a coffee ratio can be syrupy and acrid or bitter while a low coffee ratio will be thin and tea-like. Temperature – ideally, brew at a temperature slightly below boiling (91-94 degree Celsius). Too cool will give a flat tasting coffee, too hot can result in an overly bitter cup. Brew time – depending on the device; as much as five minutes for drip coffee to as little as 20-30 seconds for espresso. Over-brewed coffee will be bitter and dense, under-brewed will be weak and underwhelming.
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Edmonton 2014 Coffee Guide 303_EXT14_M Coffee guide_Edmonton region_R2.indd 1
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Tasting
known as ‘CUPPING’ among MASTER ROASTERS,
coffee tasting can be as simple as taking a sip and deciding whether you like it, or it can involve a more lingering exploration of the subtleties of the brew. Even if you really enjoy your coffee with milk and sugar, take a quick sip before adding anything just to get a feel for the original flavour and character.
As you refine your coffee palate, pay attention to a few key sensations: Aroma - The scent of the brew is a great primer before taking that first sip
Flavour - Subjective, but pay attention to brighter fruity or floral tastes versus deeper chocolatey or nutty features.
Body - Refers to the texture and
Acidity - Might
fullness of the coffee and is more obvious in the oily darker roasts.
present as sharp citrus or tart taste
Finish - Take a moment to notice the flavours lingering on your palate once you’ve taken a swallow.
The following pages contain a useful country-by-country guide to the subtleties and unique flavours of different regions and their signature varietals. 22
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Edmonton 2014 Coffee Guide
Nicaragua
95 per cent shade-grown High volcanic slopes with rich soils Nicaraguan coffee is primarily cultivated in the central northern mountains. These high volcanic slopes have rich soils with high mineral content, covered by lush and dense tropical forests with high annual rainfall. Coffee cultivation is an essential part of the Nicaraguan economy with over 45,000 small family-run farms in operation. The industry is responsible for 30 per cent of foreign currency exchange. As a result, the economy is dependent on coffee cultivation and susceptible to fluctuating coffee prices. Deforestation and soil erosion have prompted the Nicaraguan government to promote shade-grown coffee production as a means of preserving forests and protecting key ecosystems.
cup characteristics
wide-ranging flavours from bright yet mild citrus to chocolate and nutty features with full body and plenty of sweetness Edmonton 2014 Coffee Guide
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El Salvador Has preserved many of the world’s heritage varietals Yields robusta varietals, but also higher-elevation heritage Bourbon varietals By 1970, El Salvador had become the fourth largest coffee producer in the world. Then in 1980, civil war broke out. Under turmoil for over a decade, the Salvadoran industry fell behind other coffee-producing nations. As a result, many of the varietals that disappeared elsewhere during this period of intensified production were preserved here. Today, robusta cultivation is common, but a select group of small to medium sized farms are dedicated to growing the more delicate Bourbon varietals. Though lower in elevation, arabica beans grown here are well adapted to the geography. Shade-grown production and longstanding local knowledge result in some very high-quality coffees.
cup characteristics
Distinctive character and complexity—caramel sweetness with notes of brown sugar, plum, butter and toffee; a mild citrus acidity and a mellow warm hazelnut and cocoa finish.
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Guatemala
One of the oldest coffee-growing traditions in Central America Produces many of Central America’s highest-grade coffees In the early 1800s Spanish colonial administrators displaced the local Mayans to establish large-scale indigo production. After the indigo market collapsed, they turned to coffee to bolster the economy. The first estates started in the 1850s in the Antigua region. Guatemala’s diverse geography is ideally suited for coffee cultivation, with eight distinct growing regions.
cup characteristics
Of Guatemala's eight distinct growing regions, each has a distinct flavour profile. Here is a sample of three: Antigua - high acidity, medium body with fruity complexity and sweetness Huehuetenango - spiced tones (vanilla, cinnamon and clove), well-rounded body and caramel and butterscotch sweetness The Fraijanes Plateau - full body, bright acidity, with fragrant floral tones such as orange blossom and dark sweet chocolate features Edmonton 2014 Coffee Guide
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Colombia Second largest producer worldwide, behind Brazil ‘Colombian Supremo’ designation marketed as the highest symbol of quality Colombia has several well-established growing regions. However, quality does vary greatly throughout Colombia ranging from bitter, flavourless coffees to delicate and nuanced high altitude arabica beans. Cultivation of the finest beans occurs primarily along the slopes of the northern extension of the Andes, known as the three Cordilleras. The steep and rugged terrain makes transportation in this region a challenge as crops are transported through high altitude passes by truck, train or even donkey. Much of the coffee is grown by small family farms and beans that are properly harvested and processed can produce an exceptional cup.
cup characteristics
smooth body, mellow acidity, strong caramel sweetness and some subtle floral or tropical fruit features. It has even been described as having a familiar roasted cola flavour.
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Brazil Biggest producer of coffee worldwide Cup of Excellence program originated here The world’s biggest producer of arabica beans and the second biggest producer of robusta beans is responsible for approximately 30 per cent of world coffee production. Coffee has been harvested in Brazil since the 18th century. Traditionally the world’s number one source of beans for lower grade espresso blends, Brazil is now renowned as the birthplace of the Cup of Excellence program. Only the best producers in the world earn the coveted Cup of Excellence award, which is credited with increasing international awareness of premium quality coffee and single origin coffee plantations.
cup characteristics
Low-acidity, mild aroma with elements of honey and wheat; peanut-y flavour with dried fruit, banana or even raspberry features, finishing with deep body and malted sweetness with milk chocolate, hazelnut
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Bolivia
Relatively new to coffee production Emphasis on organic production, cooperatives Bolivian coffee is mainly grown on the fertile eastern slopes of the Cordillera Occidental mountain range, know as the ‘Yungas.’ While there is significant potential for cultivating high quality beans in this region, it is still a fledgling industry lacking the experience and infrastructure to be a major player. Recent efforts to promote coffee as an alternative to coca cultivation have led to a more abundant and higher quality output. However, Bolivian coffees remain somewhat rare and will typically be more expensive than other South American beans.
cup characteristics
Bright and delicate flavours with subtle fruit features (lemon, apricot); darker roasting may reveal a honey sweetness with cocoa and almond or hazelnut flavours
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Our Services
WHOLESALE BUSINESS
Tea & Coffee Company’s core business is the distribution and wholesale of fresh roasted specialty gourmet coffees, gourmet loose teas, DaVinci syrups, espresso machines, coffee grinders and coffee brewing equipment. We supply many offices, shops, cafes and restaurants across Canada with our premium coffees and teas.
Office Coffee Service Overview At Tea & Coffee Company, we recognize the importance of having a quality cup of coffee in the workplace. That’s why we import only the highest quality of Arabica beans from the worlds finest coffee producing regions and roast them fresh daily. We roast our coffees in our Edmonton roasting facility and then deliver them directly to your break room. Along with great tasting coffee, we also carry a wide selection of cups, sweeteners, whiteners, teas and hot chocolates.
Equipment Program Tea & Coffee Company offers a full selection of coffee equipment which include waterline and pourover coffee brewers, precision grinders and espresso machines. Equipment can be purchased directly or can be leased.
Foodservice Industry Tea & Coffee Company is a full service coffee, specialty beverage and equipment provider to the Canadian food service industry. Our full product line includes the necessities required by caterers, cafes and restaurants across Canada. This includes the supply of fresh roasted coffee and other specialty beverages as well as coffee grinders, espresso machines and coffee brewing equipment. Equipment can be purchased directly or can be leased. 38
Tea & Coffee Company (780)424-6886 10561 111 Street Edmonton, AB teaandcoffeecompany.com
Edmonton 2014 Coffee Guide
Kenya High, mountain plateaus offer ideal conditions Renowned for high quality espressos Grown predominantly on high slopes in the Mount Kenya and Mount Elgon regions, production is largely done by small-scale farmers or cooperatives. High plateaus offer up the perfect combination of moisture, climate and elevation for grade AA arabica beans. The highly acidic soil and wet-processing technique also influences the distinctive citrus overtones in the coffee. In spite of its proximity to the birthplace of coffee (Ethiopia), production only commenced in the late 19th century. Initially, growing was limited to the Bourbon varietal. Today, an impressive local coffee culture has arisen around high quality espressos and single origin roasts by local chains such as Dorman’s Coffee.
cup characteristics
an intriguing combination of full body with notes of cocoa juxtaposed with sharp citrus acidity and tart overtones
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Ethiopia Greatest diversity of flavour of any country in the world A traditional way to welcome guests involves a coffee ceremony which can last hours As coffee originated in Ethiopia, it is home to more than one thousand bean varietals and offers the broadest spectrum of flavours in the world. Some varietals are named for their regions—such as Yergacheffe, Sidamo and Harrar. Most beans exported from this region are single-origin, small production and of superior quality. Coffee culture is deeply entrenched in Ethiopia. Local coffee drinkers demand much of their growers. Approximately 50 per cent of all coffee is consumed internally, and is almost exclusively limited to the more expensive but eminently more delicious Arabica varietals.
cup characteristics
Bright, fruit flavours such as blueberry and blackberry with floral overtones while maintaining rich and earthy features of baking spices
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Indonesia Over 20 arabica varietals in active cultivation Fourth largest coffee producer in the world Cultivation dates back to the 17th century and was brought to Indonesia through the Dutch East India Company. Indonesia consists of a vast network of islands each with its own distinctive microclimate, geography and coffee flavour profile. It is easiest to consider each island as a distinct entity.
cup characteristics Sumatra - wet-hull processing technique delivers thick body, low acidity and earthy, herby flavours such as moss and green grass Java - once renowned as the world’s best coffee, features low acidity, brown sugar, subtle elements of spice and earthy aromas such as cedar wood; often the base in coffee blends. Sulawesi - complex with full body, bright acidity with tones of melon or green apple, clove and cinnamon spice and molasses
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Papua New Guinea
Perfect geography, soil and climate conditions Industry still maturing, but well-tended and processed beans may be exceptional Despite ideal growing conditions, coffee production takes a backseat to a thriving resource industry. Most local ‘farms’ consist of small family operations wherein producers draw from a small patch of coffee trees fringing on farms or resource extraction property. Lack of infrastructure, competition from natural resources and limited experience with rigorous coffee production limit the potential of many crops. When Papua New Guinea coffees are cultivated, sorted and processed with great care the result is a superior cup of exceptional quality. If you spot one on the shelves of a reputable coffee house, take the opportunity to experience its many qualities.
cup characteristics
Fruity and floral with elements of spice plum and some lighter guava, papaya tones; medium body and a sasparilla-chocolate finish 44
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Located in Edmonton’s beautiful Highlands neighbourhood, Concordia was established in 1921 and has proudly been granting University degrees since 1987. Today, Concordia University College of Alberta program offerings include undergraduate, professional and graduate programs that represent the finest liberal arts tradition of extensive inquiry over a wide range of subjects and disciplines.
After Degree Programs Bachelor of Education (Elementary Education)
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Thailand Largely shade-grown, organic production Exporters of civet coffee Thailand has grown coffee for more than 100 years but cultivation intensified in the 1960s after the government made deliberate efforts to develop the industry. To encourage local production, a nearly 100% tariff was imposed on coffee imports. Ninety-nine percent of coffee production is robusta beans for instant coffee production. Arabica cultivation occurs in the northern mountainous regions, mostly done cooperatively in small villages. The cat-like civet, native to this region, sometimes eats the arabica cherries and expels the raw beans in its droppings. These beans have a unique flavour and are sold for as much as $55 for 50 grams—making them the most expensive beans in the world.
cup characteristics
Crisp, bright acidity with elements of tangerine, lemon and jasmine flower; a balanced, juicy body with a roasted almond and chocolate finish
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India
Typically shade-grown, amongst spice crops (cardamom, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg) Famed for “Monsooned Malabar” beans
Legend tells of an Indian Muslim saint, who, in 1670, smuggled fertile coffee beans from Yemen to Mysore, India, in spite of a strict export ban. Today, cultivation occurs primarily in three southern states: Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu. In the 18th and 19th centuries, production diminished due to tea industry dominance, and a parasite known as coffee rust. The 1990s brought a resurgence, with increased domestic and international demand. One of India’s more famed exports is “Monsooned Malabar” beans, which are left out in the monsoon season for as long as four months. The torrential rain and wind causes the beans to swell and tempers the acidity and flavour.
cup characteristics
medium body, woody, nutty with elements of exotic spice and an almost musty undertone; some bright fruity features
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We Believe in Our Coffee Farmers. We know our farmers, and support their communities through Direct Trade. We serve Rainforest Alliance Certified, Direct Trade, Organic, and Fair Trade coffee… and every cup is exceptional.
U of A/Campus Tower • Summerside at Ellerslie 108th Street Building • City Centre • Scotia Place www.goodearthcafes.com/locations Edmonton 2014 Coffee Guide
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Within reach… …of the best night ever, with a rooftop barbeque and sky garden
…of a healthy, fit life, with access to cycling and running trails and an amenities room for winter workouts
…of higher education, with MacEwan University and NAIT minutes away
…of a new level of relaxation in your own airy space, with large windows and ceilings high enough for a basketball net …of new friends, as you can become a regular at any of the bars and restaurants only a short walk away
…of being at the centre of an exciting, developing and growing neighbourhood
infiniticondo. com 780.453.1108
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Edmonton 2014 Coffee Guide