Summerlife 2018 | Issue 51 | 英語版 | English Language Version by Powderlife

NISEKO | SUMMER

2018

NISEKO DESTINATION MAGAZINE

THE COLOURS OF SUMMER VOL 11 / ISSUE 51

CONTENTS

PLAY + ACTION 32 SEA KAYAKING 36 CAMPING IN HOKKAIDO 40 SUMMER FUN 42 FLY FISHING 44 MOUNTAIN BIKING & CYCLING 46 GOLF

NISEKO LIFE

PHOTO AARON JAMIESON

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ART + CULTURE

SOMOZA

SPRING

"The beautiful Asiatic sight of freshly planted rice paddies offers spectacular reflections and photo opportunities in spring."

ARCHITECTURE

THE CLEARWATER

AFTER THE MELT

COMMUNITY

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

10 FOUR SEASONS

THE BEAUT Y OF NISEKO'S SEASONS

18 CULTURE

MATSURI (FESTIVAL) SEASON 20 ADVENTURE

HUNTING FIREFLIES 24

FOOD

NISEKO GELATO

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C U LT U R E: MATSURI SEASON

FOOD

HIGHLIGHTS

ON THE COVER COVER PHOTO SHAKOTAN PENINSUL A RIDER G L E N C L AY D O N

Glen Claydon is one of Niseko's most prominent photographers and documents life in Niseko year round on his website 360niseko.com VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018

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SUMMER ACTIVITIES: MOUNTAIN BIKING

VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018

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VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018

Summerlife is published by Niseko Media KK. The publisher accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, illustrations or photographs. No part of the publication may be reproduced and/or stored in a retrieval system and/or by any other means, electronic, mechanical, photocopied, recorded or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. The views and opinions expressed or implied in the publication do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher. Although every effort and care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, neither the publisher nor the employees of Niseko Media KK can be held liable for any errors or omissions for the consequences of reliance on this publication. ©2018 NISEKO MEDIA KK

VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018

EDITOR’S NOTE

I have a secret that I need to reveal. It’s something I've known deep down for a long time, but only realised for certain a few years after I moved to Niseko and experienced several summer/winter seasonal cycles.

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As I was putting this issue of Summerlife together, I realised it was time to let go of my anguish and decided there’s no better time or place to tell the world than in this magazine. So, what I want to say is… I’m a summer person! That's not an easy thing to say in Niseko in winter when everyone's having the time of their lives – especially when you're the editor of the local ski mag! But don’t get me wrong – I’m not saying I’m strictly hetero-seasonal. I do love winter and there’s nowhere in the world I’d rather spend the best part of four or five months cooped up inside. And I absolutely love the consistent, dry powder snow that provides daily entertainment and wonder on and off the ski hill. But there’s something about the cold that doesn’t allow me to feel completely relaxed. So I’ve decided to come clean and confess I absolutely love summer more than anything else – especially when it’s served in Southwest Hokkaido.

My passion for warm weather and fun in the sun came about as a result of growing up surfing, fishing, boating and camping on Australia’s east coast. Now my half-Japanese kids have their own equally spectacular, if not more diverse landscape in which to create their own childhood memories. Within a short walk or drive we have volcanic mountains, some of Japan’s most pristine rivers, streams, waterfalls, freshwater springs and lakes and two spectacular coastlines on different oceans – the mighty Pacific and the Sea of Japan.

opposite of “powder” to go with “life”!). Green season isn’t 100 per cent accurate as the start of spring and most of autumn aren’t particularly green. Off-season isn’t right either as that implies winter is the only on-season, which as you’re about to discover, is most definitely not true. In any case, this magazine is primarily distributed in Niseko in winter – when the world is here – and designed to introduce ski-season visitors to the wonder of the "slower" seasons. So while you might be a died-in-thewool-jumper winter person, I'm certain if you come back after the snow melts you will fall in love with what’s on offer here in the warmer months as well. █

Outdoor adventure and activity opportunities are endless. I won’t recount a list of everything you can do in these parts because a flick through the pages of this magazine will give you a good idea. Although this magazine is by no means an exhaustive round up.

- KRISTIAN LUND

THANK YOU FOR READING SUMMERLIFE

Summerlife is a privately funded, non-profit-making initiative by Powderlife publisher Niseko Media KK. It's designed to introduce visitors to Niseko’s nonwinter charms to encourage year-round tourism for the long-term benefit of the region and its people. We encourage you to support our long-standing advertisers who make our magazines possible and directly contribute to their quality and success.

WHERE ARE YOU HEADED THIS SUMMER? Tag your summer adventures #summerlife

Despite the title, this magazine isn’t just about summer. It’s just that summer is the best single word to describe the non-winter months (and the most perfect

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KRISTIAN LUND

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VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018

FOUR SEASONS

THE BEAUTY OF NISEKO'S SEASONS TEXT AARON JAMIESON

Living in Hokkaido and adopting the Niseko lifestyle means becoming part of the powerful seasonal cycle that governs all parts of life for all living things on the island. It provides one of the greatest challenges to existing on this remote northern island, but also brings the most joy to the lives of all of us here. To borrow from Japanese terminology, "kachoufugetsu" literally translates to flower, bird, wind and moon. Its combined meaning is ‘the beauty of nature’ but with an understanding that they are connected and exist because of each other. I think there is no better way to describe life in Hokkaido. Hokkaido is a place that, for me, brings all factors of life to their simplest form. The perfection of pure white dry snow falling silently, or the fleeting moment a cherry blossom is in full bloom. The rivers that flow with the seasons and the blanket of brightly coloured leaves that cover Hokkaido every autumn. Living with this harmonious natural cycle and taking from each season what it brings have, for me, become the essence of life. PHOTO DARREN TEASDALE

SPRINGING BACK TO LIFE COLOUR RETURNS TO THE L ANDSCAPE

As spring breaks through the allencompassing white, life flourishes with an exponentially growing enthusiasm. The crisp, cold mornings quickly become warm and while the mountains still welcome skiers, the valleys and farmlands embrace the farming community that underpins life in this fertile volcanic basin. The first human signs of spring having truly arrived are the farmers spreading charcoal on the last remaining snow on their fields. This method speeds up the melt of the snow by absorbing the sun's heat, accelerating the oncoming seasonal change. Spring is a raucous season as birds fill the sky, chasing down insects and hustling for nesting sites. The buzz of humanity reignites as farming and construction once again try

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to get a head start on the green season ahead. Backcountry skiers wearing sunglasses and short sleeves traipse through the mountains now crisscrossed by bear tracks and a myriad of other mammals emerging from the frozen world. The joy of warm sunny days is shared by all that live in Niseko and T-shirts seem to be worn as soon as the mercury climbs over about 12 degrees. As the sun takes care of snow clearing, residents suddenly have a few extra hours in their days. By late March, it starts to feel like winter has been long and intense. Spring feels like a much needed holiday has just arrived. While life in the mountains sees the snow dissipate and melt away, this feeds life into

PHOTO MIKE RICHARDS

the rivers and lakes, which begin to hum with the roar of melting snow. Plant life returns to green along the banks of the river and as the first shoots from the trees begin to emerge, the first rafts of the season drift by and the river becomes a hive of activity. Fish activity is invigorated as the cold snow melt fills the streams bringing avid fishermen, braving the icy waters for a catch of the season. The snow cycle continues, only this time as a life-giving water supply for all creatures who exist from the river. The irrefutable connection of the seasons is most obvious in spring and the smell of rejuvenation fills the air. The white fields are quickly replaced with freshly-tilled, rich, red volcanic soil. These fields are then quickly filled

with neatly planted rows of produce, their first sprouts breaking the soil in record time. The aroma of agriculture is everywhere as Niseko bursts to life. As rivers bulge and farms spring to life, energy levels are high. Adventure is afoot and hiking boots are brought out as ski boots are gradually put away. Ski touring runs late into spring but eventually, as the mountains adopt their green summer hue, snowboards are swapped for surfboards as locals chase waves in the still– frigid waters of the river mouths. Spring has sprung and a temperate early summer is only weeks around the corner.

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SPRING HIGHLIGHTS • Sakura Season – Late Apr The Niseko countryside is dotted with cherry blossoms that explode in colour for one short week a year • Rice Paddies – Apr-Jun The beautiful Asiatic sight of freshly planted rice paddies offers spectacular reflections and photo opportunities • Crops and fields - Apr-Jun As soon as the earth breaks through the melting snow pack the farmers plant the season's first crops which form beautiful patterns in the fields across the region

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FOUR SEASONS

PHOTO KRISTIAN LUND

SUNSHINE & GOOD TIMES GET OUT AND PL AY

Spring sees rapid change and then, as suddenly as it started, the snow is gone and the only signs that winter was here still cling to the shadows of the gullies and valleys. Summer marches into Niseko and it feels as though everyone takes an enormous deep breath. The connection with the seasons means this is a time of recreation and relaxation. Camping and barbecues are the favoured activities and the lakes form the nuclei of social events. The days lengthen to allow so much more to be achieved in 24 hours than is conceivable in the other seasons, meaning work and play make way for each other at the mood and discretion of the day.

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Golf kicks off in earnest and cycling takes hold as the lycra army rolls into town. Temperatures hike their way over 30 degrees Celsius and finding shade on a sunny day is essential. Hokkaido summers are not long and the locals know to enjoy them while they are here. It’s matsuri (festival) season and it’s time to eat, drink and celebrate life and prosperity into the warm evening hours. Fireworks fill the sky through summer as each local village celebrates a harvest or special commemorative event. Spirits are high and productivity roars forward, as crops come to harvest markets and street side stalls are overflowing with produce, each local farmer offering their own ‘specialty’.

PHOTO DARREN TEASDALE

Shorts, T-shirts and an easy-going attitude are the correct attire for summer. The wildlife is vibrant but relaxed and so too are the local people. It's a time for getting things done… but not in too much of a hurry. Loading the car and heading out from Niseko on beautiful roads, there is so much to discover and all within a day’s trip. With coastlines less than an hour’s drive in either direction, spectacular lakes, and a collection of villages and towns full of character and life that largely hibernate through winter.

nothing for a group of hikers on the roadside, preparing for a day in the mountains. Hikers and mountain bikers replace skiers as the adrenalin seekers of the hills, and road cyclists zip between the patchwork farms of the valleys. Mt Yotei stands at the epicenter of it all and commands an entirely green-shrouded presence over all that is happening in Niseko. Her transformation from a blanket of white to a cloak of green is complete… and Niseko rolls through its cycle of seasons and change.

Exploring by car, by bike and by foot means there is so much to do that the long days are very welcome. First light is early – really early – and the buzz of bikes whipping by at 5am is

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PHOTOS AARON JAMIESON

SUMMER HIGHLIGHTS • Swimming Season – Jul-Aug Head to the rivers, lakes and oceans to make the most of the beautiful summer weather • Matsuri (Festivals) – Jul-Aug Don your summer kimono for an evening of food, fun and fireworks with friends and family! There's one or more every weekend in July and August • Barbecues – Jun-Sept 'Tis the season to get outdoors and grill bite-size pieces of meat and fresh produce on yakiniku-style BBQs on weekend afternoons and evenings

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FOUR SEASONS

PHOTOS TOP PAUL MAL ANDAIN / BOT TOM DALE GOULDING

THE COLOURS OF FALL NATURE'S FINAL SHOW BEFORE WINTER

PHOTOS AARON JAMIESON

Summer holds on until the end of August but as September creeps in, so do the cooler evenings and earlier finishes to barbecues and events. Whispers of winter begin and an urgency creeps back into the daily activities and schedule for human and animal residents alike. It’s time to prepare for winter, but not without finding time to enjoy one of the most beautiful times of year, and certainly the most spectacular season in Hokkaido. Winds change and bring with them a chill from the northwest. The leaves begin to change and adopt the first tinges of red, gold, brown and orange. A crispness fills the air and the skies clear themselves of the flurry of pollination and the proliferation of summer and spring with a pre-winter cleansing. This

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time of year is when the skies are clearest and the light is at its most pure. It’s now that we are truly able to enjoy the beauty of nature with crystalline skies of iridescent blue forming a backdrop for the impending array of colour to be provided by the forests and wilderness of Hokkaido. This is a beautiful time for hiking and exploring the lakes of the area. Time spent in the mountains now is crisp and fulfilling, the humidity and heat of summer has faded and the clear weather brings with it unprecedented views. Sure enough, the leaves will change and each species of tree will take its turn. As the fire crackles, autumn arrives in the night.

PHOTO AARON JAMIESON

Waking on a crisp September morning to see the first leaves have faded from green overnight is a subtle hint that the certainty of winter is nigh. But not before the climax of the green season and nature's most dramatic display. Almost as though holding back a sneeze, the area shudders and shifts toward a gigantic natural change. Like a volcanic phenomenon the overwhelming greens are pushed aside with the trees exploding into every hue imaginable. First to arrive are the momiji, or maple, bright red and proud, throwing their starshaped leaves to the ground in a statement of their readiness for winter. Just a few leaves from each tree at first, the next day a few more, then all of a sudden yellow takes hold,

bringing with it gold, orange, brown and red and the wave of colour flows over the Niseko region. Starting on the mountain peaks and settling on the farms, the countryside is cloaked in a blanket of coloured leaves born only a few months earlier, fed by the rivers and the snow of the seasons before. And so the cycle beings again. October ordinarily sees the first snows arrive on the peaks and we know the wild winters of Hokkaido are but weeks away. Soon we will be chasing powder snow in the mountains as we connect with and embrace the seasonal cycle that is life in Niseko. █

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AUTUMN HIGHLIGHTS • Autumn Colours – Late Oct The spectacular patchwork of reds, yellows and oranges that envelopes the mountains is one of the highlights of the year in Niseko • Salmon and Ikura – Sept-Oct As soon as the salmon run starts in early September fresh sashimi, sushi and ikura are on the menu • First Snowfalls – Late Sept-Oct Catching a glimpse of the first frost or snowfall atop Mt Yotei is one of the most exciting moments of the year – winter is nigh!

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LIQUID REFLECTIONS PHOTO SHIN TOKUMARU To k u m a r u - s a n ' s b o o k m i n a m o f e a t u r i n g m o r e o f h i s s t u n n i n g p h o t o g r a p h y i s a v a i l a b l e f o r p u r c h a s e a t N i s h i n d o B o o k S h o p o n E k i m a e D o r i , t h e m a i n s t r e e t o f K u t c h a n To w n .

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CULTURE

01 Jaga Matsuri 1000-person dance 02 Rankoshi Matsuri (Photo Aaron Jamieson) 03 Jaga Matsuri Nebuta float (Photo Paul Malandain) 04 M en carrying a symbolic lantern 05 Rankoshi Matsuri 06 Lanterns & fireworks (Photo Aaron Jamieson)

祭り

01 P H OTO G L E N C L AY D O N

"Every town and shrine in Japan has a festival. Matsuri is an expression of a town’s spirit and character. A celebration of summer, a fun way to meet and mingle and unwind.

MATSURI SEASON

THE CELEBRATION OF SUMMER

As the heat of a hot summer’s day subsides into a cool summer evening, there’s an uncommon buzz in the air – it’s the weekend of the local summer matsuri (festival). Kids bounce off the walls, ready to be wooed by a whirlwind of sugar candies and plastic knick-knacks. Adults can’t help but be caught up in the excitement, and many draw out their summer kimono for the occasion. Tonight, and only tonight, there is a transformation.

TEXT M ASHA SIMONOV

M AT S U R I (祭) I S T H E J A PA N E S E W O R D F O R A F E S T I VA L O R H O L I D AY. I N J A P A N , F E S T I VA L S A R E U S U A L LY S P O N S O R E D BY A LOCAL SHRINE OR TEMPLE, THOUGH THEY CAN BE SECUL AR.

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05 PHOTO PAUL MAL ANDAIN

It’s evening, around 6 or 7pm. In summer the twilights are long and the evenings cool after often balmy days. On matsuri night, eyes slowly adjust to torch and lantern-light as the sky grows dark. Smells drift from a dozen food stalls and food trucks. The conversation and laughter of thousands of residents, none of them quite strangers, drift and mingle with music playing. Somewhere there is a stage, and a show, and people dancing, singing and clapping. Everybody in town goes to the local matsuri – co-workers, taxi drivers, town mayors, the ladies checking out your groceries at the supermarket. On the mainland, festival traditions are timeless. You can see men and women taking the very same steps on the very same streets as their ancestors did, hundreds

PHOTO AARON JAMIESON

of years before, relived year after year. Every town and shrine in Japan has a festival. Matsuri is an expression of a town’s spirit and character. A celebration of summer, a fun way to meet and mingle and unwind. Here in rural Hokkaido, matsuri are as downhome and local as you can get. Kutchan Town celebrates local produce in its famous potato festival – Jaga Matsuri. Highlights include an all-you-can-gather potato grab, themed lantern floats and taiko drumming. Niseko Town’s matsuri is known for its unbelievable fireworks display and food stalls with the townsfolk out with their kids and picnic rugs. The kids all chase each other, glowsticks and water guns in tow.

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CULTURE

07 Niseko Tanabata Matsuri 08 Taiko drumming performance 09 Lanterns light the streets 10-12 Niko Niko Niseko Village Festival

07 PHOTO DARREN TEASDALE

11 PHOTO PAUL MAL ANDAIN

Festivals are a magical time for kids, a special, once-a-year event akin to Christmas, where they can let themselves go and enjoy carnival games, cheap plastic toys that light up and make noise, and delicious food that can only be eaten on that day.

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At the Niseko Shrine festival in late September, twice my friend passes me asking whether I’ve seen her son, apt to run hyperactive laps in the presence of his friends. Each time I name the time and place I last saw them zooming by. But the lady selling hand-dyed handbags, the man selling imported wine, and the Michelin-starred chef selling delectable snacks and drinks at his stall all know the boy by name, as does a good third of the crowd.

P H O T O S YA S U Y U K I S H I M A N U K I

The Souga shrine, on a small side road connecting Niseko Village to Niseko Town, offers a local talent show with the hundred or so residents in the area taking the stage to dance, sing or perform comedy routines. In Hirafu, the most international of all the townships, real estate moguls and baristas will take up newspaper swords and compete in the great newspaper sumo sword fighting tournament, with snowboards and cash prizes up for grabs. The head of Grand Hirafu ski resort serves beers and green tea at the corner store. The true summer festival is the antithesis of a grand, slick event. From the collection of facepainted scarecrows in Kyowa town’s summer celebrations to Kutchan’s time challenge potato grab, nothing about these events is

cool or smooth or even a spectacle. It's a celebration of community and an opportunity for everyone to get outdoors and celebrate the short, spectacular summer. Everyone comes to eat tasty food on skewers and drink “ramune” soft drink and beer. It’s also a chance to wear your yukata (summer kimono) and is one of the only times people get to do so in this day and age. It’s a wonderful opportunity for foreign residents and visitors to take part in a culture that is all at once ancient, modern and timeless. █

2018 MATSURI CALENDAR Mid July • Kyogoku Shakkoi (Water) Matsuri • Tomari Kuki (Herring) Matsuri Late July • Kanronomori Natsu (Summer) Matsuri • Kutchan Jinja (Shrine) Matsuri Early August • Kutchan Jaga (Potato) Matsuri • Niseko Tanabata (Fireworks) Matsuri • Iwanai Dotou (Wild Wave) Matsuri Late August • Hirafu Matsuri • Kaributo Jinja (Niseko Shrine) Matsuri • Kyowa Kakashi (Scarecrow) Festival • Niko Niko (Smile) Niseko Village Festival

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ADVENTURE

01 Perfect firefly habitat 02 The fascinating firefly 03 A classic Niseko summer evening

Shiribetsu. I explain to Satoba-san: "When I saw fireflies in Nagano it was in a sort of pondy area, the water wasn't really flowing. It was very dark.” Our confidence wavers. With 30 minutes left on the clock we head out to Rankoshi. "Yeah, sure, fireflies. There are fireflies," a local rafting guide told us an hour before our departure. His farmer friend chips in, "I've seen some, for sure. Niseko is a good place for them. The water is so clean." The consensus is reassuring, but when pressed for specifics the answer is always vague. 01

HUNTING FIREFLIES A SUMMER EVENING ADVENTURE

TEXT MASHA SIMONOV

Japanese families crowd around barbecues, couples bask in electric lantern light, kids play cards behind tent-flap fly screens. Warmly lit tent complexes that could be straight out of camping catalogues are neatly separated by rows of trees. Bonfires crackle, the air is thick with delicious barbecue smoke. It’s a warm Saturday summer evening and the campsite is full. VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018

My partner Satoba-san and I are on the hunt for one of Japan's signature summer sights – fireflies. We’ve Googled the requirements: fresh, still water with reeds and shrubbery; dark, secluded forest; 8 to 9 pm. We have an hour before the fireflies tuck in for the night before coming alive again (albeit less brightly) around 11pm, and again at 2am. Arriving at 8.10, we have 50 minutes left to hunt. This is not my first stumble through the woods I've embarked upon in order to catch a glimpse of summer fireflies. Fireflies are sensitive to water and air quality, and struggle in the city where tungsten lighting floods out their gentle glow. Niseko has everything they need – streams, forests and pitch black as far as the eye can’t see. The cool climate and short summers are the only things that stand in the way of the view-on-demand firefly experience that occupies Japanese summer folklore. 2 4

Last summer I spent many a free night around the spring water fountain near Hirafu, or down below the big bridge leading out of town towards Kutchan, squinting into the darkness. One night I could have sworn I saw a mysterious twinkle while staring into nothingness, though it could just as well have been my vision spotting in the dark.

On the far side of Rankoshi we find Yoshikuni Park. Lawns, trees and flowers centre around a walking trail, and a man-made stream meanders the length of the park. A little way from the street lights, darkness envelops us. We make it to the far end of the park and sit on the side of a bend in the stream. There are trees here, and reeds, and it’s dark as can be – as likely a spot as any. It takes a few minutes for our eyes to adjust. Everything looks grainy. My eyes dart around at every spark, but nothing shines except starlight glinting off the ripples in the flowing stream below. I stare into the darkness like this for five, 10 minutes, willing twinkling lights to come into being.

After my fourth venture through the forests this year looked just as fruitless as last year's endeavours, I decided to research – that is, ask Japanese friends to Google in Japanese – and two spots came up as potential firefly habitats. Sahina Campsite on the far side of Niseko's onsen precinct, and Yoshikuni Park in Rankoshi. In Sahina we hear the river behind an impenetrable hedge wall that marks the edge of the campsite – a dull and steady roar, so it may be that we're on the banks of the mighty

"Niseko has everything fireflies need – streams, forests and pitch black as far as the eye can’t see."

It's 8.50 and at this point I begin to doubt fireflies even exist in Niseko at all. Frogs chirping, distant bird calls, and an endless rustle of leaves are our companions. Meanwhile the stars are gorgeous. "I just saw a shooting star!" Satoba-san calls out, gazing up as we stroll. She’s upbeat, and so I feel upbeat. Come what may, we've had a nice night exploring in the darkness. The lake, when we come to it, is maybe four or five metres long and equally wide. A little pagoda and bench are on the lawn nearby, and 2 5

trees surround us. The little stream we've been following flows out to a still water reservoir. We decide to sit on the bench and wait out our remaining 10 minutes. And then, at that very last moment, we see them. One twinkle at first, blinking. Definitely not spots in my eyes. Then another, and another. Three in total. We watch mesmerised. The fireflies float up and above the lake, around the reeds, the trees, and us. They hover and reflect off the perfectly still water. They look like cool, white Christmas lights set to a dim glow. They twinkle rhythmically, off for a bit and on for a while, and fly around in that aimless yet purposeful way that insects do. Sometimes they appear to chase each other, other times just drift in vague arcs over the water. They are beautiful, natural little lights in the night. We sit, bask, enjoy, laugh and watch in quiet satisfaction. I count six at the most. By about 9.15 pm the twinkling lights hover towards the trees, land on leaves and glow intermittently. Then, one by one, the lights blink out. The internet was right, the fireflies go to bed after 9pm. █

FIREFLY HUNTING CHECKLIST • Mid-June to early August • Warm evenings – 20C degrees plus • 8-9 pm, 11 pm-12 am and 2-3 am • Clean, still, smallish bodies of water • Reeds, bushes, overhanging trees • Little competing light, natural or artificial • Insect repellent • Happy hunting!

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BLUE RIVER, BIEI PHOTO AARON JAMIESON

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"If it looks like it’s going to be really hot we’ll make a sorbet for that cool, fresh flavour. If the weather looks like it might be cooler we’ll do some more creamy, nutty gelatos."

NISEKO GELATO HAVE AN ICE DAY

D E N N I S VA N D E N B R I N K

TEXT KRISTIAN LUND

There’s nothing “vanilla” about Niseko Gelato. Niseko’s summer gelato shop prides itself on doing things a little differently. So don’t be surprised when you go if you find ice cream flavours you’ve never heard of, or could even dream of. At Niseko Gelato you won't find tried-andtrue replicas of the classic flavours you used to eat at your local ice creamery. Instead you're likely to find a creative interpretation with an injection of organic or natural ingredients inspired by the flavours of the season.

Niseko Gelato is located at 79-45 Motomachi, Niseko-cho 0136-44-1385

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I was hooked on Niseko Gelato after my first visit thanks to one simple flavour. Being a long-time lover of mint-flavoured sweets, I was instantly drawn to the mention of “Wild Mint”. It sounded spectacular, but it wasn’t until I tasted it that I understood what Niseko Gelato was all about. Rather than the sweet, confected mint flavour you’ll find mixed with flakes of cheap chocolate in mass-produced ice creams, this was made with locally harvested wild mint leaves. The difference was incomparable.

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Niseko Gelato is the latest creative venture by legendary Niseko chef and organic farmer Dennis van den Brink. Dennis-san is somewhat of a local celebrity, regularly appearing in Japanese magazines and TV programmes. Everything he does with food is creative, innovative and inspired. One of the beautiful things about life in Hokkaido is the different produce and flavours available across the seasons. With the gelato “factory” in view of customers right behind the servery, Dennis says Niseko Gelato is entirely flexible, matching flavours to, and working with, what’s in season. “If it looks like it’s going to be really hot we’ll make a sorbet for that cool, fresh flavour,” he says. “But if the weather looks like it might be cooler we’ll do some more creamy, nutty gelatos. If strawberries are in season we buy a bunch of amazing strawberries, and when the watermelons are out we’ll go and grab a bunch of them. We’re not just making ice cream – what I like to do is something more." █

FLAVOURS TO CHOOSE FROM:

ACAI & COCONUT WATER

COCONUT WITH CHOCOL ATE FUDGE & RUM GANACHE

EARL GREY & MANDARIN

HOLO HOLO HOKK AIDO WITH HASK AP

MOCHA ALMOND FUDGE

RASBERRY CHEESCAKE

TIRAMISU CUSTARD CREAM CHEESE COFFEE CHOCOL ATE

STICKY MEDJOOL DATE & GRAPEFRUIT

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SALMON RUN In early autumn each year the beaches are lined with fishermen wielding giant fishing poles, trying to catch salmon before they make it back to the relative safety of the river of their birth. For when they enter the river system, they are protected from recreational fisherman – although not, it must be said, from Hokkaido brown bears and birds of prey. If they manage to negotiate the final stretch of their gauntlet alive, they may fulfil their life’s goal – to spawn, and die. Such is the life cycle of the paradoxical salmon, who, after being born upstream in freshwater, ventures out into the ocean to mature, before several years later uncannily finding its way back to the very same river, and often the very same spawning ground, of its birth.

HYDUNE BURGER & BAR Since the summer of 2014, a trip to Lake Toya isn’t complete without dropping by Hydune (rhymes with high-noon) and wrapping your jaws around one of their now-famous burgers. Run by a crew of funky local chicks, many of whom previously worked in Niseko, this East-meets-West hamburger joint takes the best of American fast-food culture and serves it inside a huge house-made bun along with a

hefty serving of fresh Hokkaido produce, and crafted with typical Japanese food mastery. Mind you, this is by no means fast food – it’s made with love and all the time necessary to craft the perfect burger for customers. Be prepared to wait a few extra minutes, but believe me – it’s worth the wait! █

Hydune Hamburger & Bar is located at 70-6 Toyako Onsen, Toyako-cho 080-5835-1085

FRUIT PICKING

UNI AND IKURA SEASON

For fruit lovers, there could be nothing more heavenly than an all-you-can-eat smorgasbord of bright, juicy, organic produce straight from tree or vine. And that is exactly what you can indulge in at Yoichi, a fertile slice of paradise hidden amongst Southwest Hokkaido’s rolling mountain ranges. An hour’s drive due north of Niseko, where the winding green mountain passes descend to sea level, a fertile river valley fans out towards the coastline of the Sea of Japan, encompassing what is known as “Northern Fruit Kingdom”.

Dozens of Yoichi’s orchards are open to the public, allowing visitors to wander the fields and – for a small fee – pick and eat as much as they like. For just a few yen more you can also fill a tub to take home for later. If you time your trip right, there could be several different types of fruit ripe for the picking. If you are a fruit lover, check out the calendar opposite and plan your Niseko summer holiday around your favourite fruits’ season – ask your accommodation provider or contact Explore Niseko for details. █

WHEN TO GO: Strawberries Mid Jun – Early Jul Cherries End Jun – Early Aug Blueberries End Jul – End Aug VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018

Plums Early Aug – End Sep Peaches Mid Aug – End Oct Prunes Mid Aug – End Oct 3 0

If you’re in Hokkaido in September or October and have a chance to head towards the ocean anywhere near Niseko, look for one of the many streams or rivers running from the mountains out to the sea. Find a river mouth or bridge within a few hundred metres of the ocean and peer over the edge. Often there will be hundreds, if not thousands, of huge green and pinktinged salmon heading slowly but surely upstream towards their destiny. █

Grapes Early Sep – Early Nov Apples Early Sep – Early Nov Pears End Sep – End Oct

Everyone living in a four-seasons destination has their favourite times of the year – special moments or experiences that only come around once a year, and usually for short periods of time. For example, the changing colour of the leaves in autumn; the first snowfalls of winter; or the blooming of the cherry blossoms in spring. Two such moments for many are the first taste of the seasonal uni (sea urchin) and ikura (salmon roe) as they appear in mid-summer and early autumn respectively. These two local delicacies are available in restaurants year-round. But never are they as good as the first, fresh serves of their seasons.

Uni scooped out of its hard, spiky shell could be described as a fruit of the sea, with a slightly sweet, rich, creamy texture. Ikura, otherwise known as “red caviar”, are glistening, omega 3-packed sacs of exquisite piquancy that explode with surprise and flavour on the taste buds. Hokkaido, and especially particular areas along the coastlines around Niseko including the Shakotan Peninsula, are famous for the harvest of both of these delicacies. If you’re a lover of the finest seafood, be sure to visit between June and October to experience either or both at their exquisite best. █

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ABOVE THE WATERLINE P H OTO G L E N C L AY D O N

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SEA KAYAKING EXPLORING THE SHAKOTAN PENINSUL A

TEXT KRISTIAN LUND P H OTO S G L E N C L AY D O N

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While it might be hard for ski-season visitors to imagine, the predominant shade of the summer months in Niseko is a powerful spectrum of greens and blues. From the dense foliage of the forests to the blue and green tinged rivers, lakes and oceans, the strength of the summer colours are a stark contrast to the all-pervading white of winter. One of the most dramatic colours of summer can be found off the Sea of Japan coastline, an hour’s drive west of Niseko. From Shimamaki in the south to Otaru in the north, far from the pollutants of any major industrial ports, the waters off Southwest Hokkaido take on an almost tropical clarity in various tones of vivid, turquoise ocean blue. In particular, there is one point along the coastline where the water puts on a show all of its own – the Shakotan Peninsula. The almost-phosphorescent blue colour of the

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water surrounding the peninsula is so distinctly different to the rest of the region that the colour has been given its own name – Shakotan blue. The mere sight of crystal clear rock pools and coves on a hot summer’s day is enough to give a beach-lover the urge to race to the water’s edge and dive in… although unless it’s peak summer prepare for it to be a little chillier than the tropics. The Shakotan Peninsula is also home to one of the most dramatic, cliff-lined coastlines in Hokkaido which, coupled with the water colour, makes for a spectacular combination. You can get a feel for the beauty of the area by driving along the coastline and walking out onto the gnarled spine of the punctuating tip of the peninsula at Cape Kamui. The most rewarding way to experience Shakotan blue, however, is to immerse yourself in it. There are glass-bottom boat

tours that give you a taste and get you right up close and personal with the ocean floor. But for a real adventure jump on a kayak or SUP (stand-up paddle) board. If you haven’t SUP boarded before, the ocean probably isn’t the best place to learn, so for many of us that leaves kayak as the number one choice. They’re fairly stable once you get the hang of them, you’re sitting down so you can take a breather any time, and you can keep your belongings safely tucked away inside. The best time to do a tour is when the weather is fine – the fewer clouds the better as the sunlight brings out the full brilliance of all the colours. Light winds are also a bonus so the water is nice and calm and you can take your pick of locations – however if the wind is up from one direction, you may be able to head to a leeward side of the peninsula.

"The Shakotan Peninsula is also home to one of the most dramatic, cliff-lined coastlines in Hokkaido."

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01 Shakotan pinnacle 02 Navigating caves 03 Chile con carne with Takanashi-san 04 Exploring the kelp pools

"The highlight is feeling the exhilaration of adventure as you paddle into some of the many caves that penetrate deep into the heart of the cliff faces"

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Once on the water you leave civilisation behind – the road that hugs most of the coastline around here heads inland as you head out towards the wild, rugged coastline. Generally, you will stick relatively close to the shore where the shallower sea floor intensifies the colours, and you can duck and weave between rock formations and explore deep holes and kelp forests. The highlight is feeling the exhilaration of adventure as you paddle into some of the many caves that penetrate deep into the heart of the cliff faces. If your guide is up for it, they may take you a little way offshore where the views take on a different aspect – looking back over the water to the land. If you head out far enough in the right spot, you can actually see Mt Yotei and the Annupuri Range. Mt Yotei above an expanse of Shakotan blue and sheer cliff faces… now that’s sure to get a sea of likes on your Instagram page!

There are several Niseko companies offering tours out to the peninsula, picking up guests from Niseko and transporting them out to the coast by bus. One of these is Toyru, the little ski and outdoor shop just near the Hirafu Gondola. It’s owned and run by legendary local telemark skier and Niseko poster boy, Yutaka Takanashi. Sponsored by adventure brand Patagonia, Takanashi-san loves the great outdoors yearround, and guides the Shakotan tours himself. Takanashi-san is passionate about Shakotan and makes sure guests have the best possible experience. He brings along a gas stove and cooks up a small feast for lunch – often a chilli con carne – below one of the severalhundred-metre-high cliffs that can only be accessed by water. While he’s preparing it’s time for a dip. Takanashi-san will lend you some goggles so you can dive down and get a feel for what lies beneath the surface. Keep your eye out for a Shakotan delicacy – the 3 7

spiky sea urchin “uni” clinging to the sides of the rock pools. Although it must be noted it’s illegal to take any or even eat any on the spot, no matter how tempting it may be. A tour out on the water takes a leisurely several hours, although allow the better part of the day from door-to-door to get out to the peninsula and account for preparation and packing up. Pack plenty of sunscreen, a sense of adventure and explore the depths of one of Niseko’s green-season wonders. █

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PHOTO PAUL MAL ANDAIN

01 Summer camp vibes 02 Island time 03 Takarada Camp Ground, Lake Toya 04 B ifue Camp Ground, Lake Shikotsu

CAMPING IN HOKKAIDO TEXT A ARON JA MIESON PHOTOS PAUL M AL ANDAIN & A ARON JA MIESON

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Niseko’s summer starts in earnest when camping and barbecues dominate conversation preceding every weekend. With temperate summers, camping in Niseko and the surrounding region is the best way to indulge in the pristine wilderness in its most pure form. Niseko is wedged on a swathe of land between two oceans. With mountains and rivers, the region is thriving with wildlife and wilderness centred around two picturesque lakes flooding large volcanic craters. Their pristine fresh water makes for fantastic swimming, water sports and fishing and there are a multitude of campsites spotted around the lakes, varying from well-appointed to more secluded. 3 8

If salt water and sand are more your flavour, then there are also a number of great beachside campgrounds within an hour’s drive of Niseko. The coastline and mountains of Hokkaido are spectacular and camping is allowed in many parks and reserves across the entire island. The Japanese love camping, but only at certain times. If it's school holidays and designated camping season, the camp grounds will be absolutely packed. Outside these times, you could have the wilderness almost all to yourself.

05 Old school exploration 06 The perfect set up 07 Breakfast with a view

LAKESIDE CAMP SPOTS Hangetsuko / Half Moon Lake

Shikotsuko / Lake Shikotsu

Toyako / Lake Toya

Shaped like a half crescent moon, Hangetsuko at the foot of Mt Yotei is a beautiful spot with a lovely bush walk, which takes about an hour. The more adventurous can hike to the top of Mt Yotei (about four hours) and look into the crater which, at the start of summer, still has a small pond of melted snow in its basin. Hangetsuko itself is just a 10-minute walk from the campsite for a refreshing swim on a hot summer’s day. There are fresh water and toilet facilities at the campsite, and a delicious udon restaurant at the end of the road which makes for a great lunch on your last day.

Shikotsuko is another of Hokkaido’s most famous lakes and, at 363m, is the second deepest in Japan. Shikotsuko is surrounded by spectacular volcanic mountain peaks and boasts magnificent vistas in every direction. There is a cute campsite with great facilities nestled on the lake’s western shore. Look for Bifue Camping Ground and pack your fishing rods, the lake is full of fresh water fish of many varieties.

Toyako is a well-known and exceptionally beautiful destination for Hokkaido locals and visitors from Japan and abroad. About 10km in diameter with several cone-shaped islands in its centre, the lake is encircled by a road linking the small towns, restaurants and onsens dotted around its shores. Cycling around the lake is a great way to spend the day, or just relax in one of the well-appointed campsites with a book, while the kids swim or enjoy water activities on the lake.

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08 A serious camp set up (Photo Paul Malandain) 09 Mmmm, bacon 10 Hokkaido squirrel 11 A room with a view 12 Lake Shikotsu

NISEKO COASTAL CAMPING AREAS Shakotan Peninsula

Central Hokkaido

This rugged coastal peninsula juts out westward between Otaru and Iwanai and has fantastic coastal scenery with jagged cliff faces separating some beautiful sandy beaches. There are a number of places to camp with an official campground near the end of the peninsula as well as a beautiful beachfront campground right on the sand.

Central Hokkaido is home to Hokkaido’s highest peaks with 16 reaching over 2000m, and all within the Daisetsuzan National Park – the largest national park in Japan. Daisetsuzan is crisscrossed with walking trails and there are plenty of information points and signs to point you in the right direction.

Okushiri Island

Heading further east to the area around Hokkaido’s most famous lakes – Akanko, Mashuko and Kussharoko – you will encounter more pristine volcanic wilderness and an area worth spending several days exploring the lakes and surrounding area. Further east is Shiretoko National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage

This small island lies off the coast, about an hour on the car ferry and has two great camp grounds. On the west coast, Kitaoimisaki Park camp ground, and Sainokawara Park on the island’s northern tip. Certainly worth a day or two detour from a Hokkaido camping road trip.

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Eastern Hokkaido

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Site. One of Hokkaido’s most beautiful areas, Shiretoko has spectacular scenery and fantastic options for hiking and day trips. The Northern Tip Looking to the northern-most point of the island you will see Rishiri and Rebun, two small islands located just off the coast. Rishiri is dominated by a towering volcanic peak, visible from almost 100km away. This remote corner of Hokkaido offers campers a truly unique location with several choices of campsites around the small island. There are a variety of campsites with onsens close by to suit families, or more secluded sites for wildlife and adventure enthusiasts. █

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JAPAN’S BIGGEST NEW TREE TREK Niseko has taken another big step towards becoming the four-seasons adventure capital of Japan this year as home to the country's biggest tree trekking course. Built right alongside the Ace Family Run in Hirafu by a specialist tree-trekking course builder all the way from Estonia, the new NAC Adventure Park connects almost a hectare of pine forest – an area equivalent to the size of a football field. Set between 5m and 13m above the ground, there are a total of 100 features and obstacles including climbing nets, tightropes, bridges, ziplines and rope swings. It's very safe but you need to be at least 6 years old and taller than 115cm for the standard courses and 140cm for advanced. Open year round! █ www.nacadventures.jp

GETTING INTO THE RHY THM OF SUMMER

RENT A SCOOTER There’s no funner way to explore a holiday destination than by motor scooter, and as of last summer you can do just that in Niseko! Niseko’s year-round activity booking centre Explore Niseko jumped on the opportunity to introduce mechanised two-wheel tourism and now offers scooters for rent to visitors. While road cycling and mountain biking are popular green season pastimes here, if you need some time off the pedals and just want to zip around to see more of the countryside and local sightseeing attractions, one of these nifty 50cc mopeds is for you. They’re easy to ride, cheap on fuel, and cheap to rent… and there’s no better way to get a lung full of Niseko’s fresh air! █

When Rhythm started a humble ski rental business in 2005, Niseko was just starting to become known as an international ski destination. But as a summer tourism destination? Apart from a thriving day-trip rafting industry and several long weekends that attracted a few domestic visitors, Niseko used to go into summer hibernation with most shops and restaurants closing down and the villages becoming ghost towns for most of the year. That’s all starting to change. After a decade of promotion driven largely by the winter accommodation providers, hotels and other big businesses, there are now domestic and international tourists here over much of the “off-season”. It’s still very quiet compared to winter, but there is an ever-increasing number of businesses open and a variety of summer activities and events on offer.

www.explore-niseko.com

Explore Niseko can book all the activities in this magazine and plenty more. Go to Explore-Niseko.com, or drop into their booking office at Odin Place, 1F to book.

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One of the businesses playing a key part in the green-season revolution is Rhythm, which now spends the “off-season” doing everything it can to build the spirit of summer in Niseko. Soon after the final lifts are switched off in May, the team throws a free barbecue for all and sundry outside their Hirafu headquarters on the main street above the traffic lights, unofficially marking the start of summer for the international community.

help make it a success and keep building the atmosphere of summer in Niseko. So if you’re coming back to check out what Niseko looks like sans-snow, be sure to head on in to Rhythm, let them kit you up and point you in the direction of your summer adventure. Be sure to give the guys a high five on your way out the door! █ www.rhythmjapan.com

The rental shop itself turns into the Hirafu summer hub for international visitors looking to rent everything needed for mountain biking, road cycling, hiking and recently SUP (stand-up paddle) boarding. Not only do they offer the equipment, they also run regular group cycling mornings for locals and visitors alike. If there’s an activity or event on in town, the Rhythm team will be sponsoring it or lending a hand in some form or another to

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FLY FISHING GO WITH THE FLOW

TEXT AARON JAMIESON PHOTOS HUGO TRÉMOLIÈRE

"The Shiribetsu River is officially one of Japan’s most pristine rivers and draws fishermen from across the country and overseas."

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As winter turns to spring the snow melts from the mountains and the rivers begin to swell. So begins an entirely new cycle as fish spring to life in search of food. As they do, more and more fishermen can be found astride the banks of the largest and most flourishing rivers of the Niseko region. The best time to fish is just after the melt starts to abate around May, and then again just before winter kicks in around October. Apart from the spectacular local scenery, the stunning Shiribetsu River and its tributaries are home to a wonderful array of freshwater fish, including several species of the prized trout and salmon. These rivers feed the lakes, which in turn are their own natural havens for marine life. The Niseko

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region, boasting both Lake Toya and Lake Shikotsu, offers a variety of picturesque locations to chase the fish of the season. Niseko is prime fishing territory in Southwest Hokkaido. The Shiribetsu River is officially one of Japan’s most pristine rivers and draws well-informed and adventurous fishermen from across the country and overseas. Coming to Hokkaido to fish its rivers, lakes and oceans is, for many fishermen, a famed pilgrimage to a new frontier. It’s also a chance to learn culturally unique methods of Japanese flytying and fishing techniques. Dedicating themselves to the study of nature and their natural environment, local fly fishermen study the shape, movement,

01 Finding the sweet spot 02 Amemasu (white spotted Japanese char) 03 A fish in the net is worth... 04 Unidentified species 05 Custom-made Niseko flies

and characteristics of the most common insects to truly understand the stimulants of their target species. This holistic approach captivates the minds of the adventurous artisan fisherman and informs their pursuit to create the perfect fly. For fly fisherman, the process of catching a fish starts with an intimate understanding of the seasons, the life cycles of the insects and the tastes of the fish, which informs the crafting of their flies. Starting with a barbless hook, the process incorporates feather, cotton and steel with clever methods of binding and interweaving colours and textures to react with the water surface.

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Whether fishing the main areas or venturing deeper into the wilderness in search of the smaller and less frequented rivers and bigger fish, taking a professional guide can help. More than just finding your way and identifying fish and fishing hot spots a day on the river with a local also means gaining a few local secrets on designing the perfect fly. █

Thanks to local guide Hugo Trémolière for lending us his expertise and introducing us to the art of fly making (see some of Hugo’s beautiful flies above!). For more information or to book a tour go to niseko-flyfishing.com.

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NISEKO CL ASSIC TEXT KRISTIAN LUND

The UCI Gran Fondo – the amateur cycling world tour – selects about 20 destinations around the world to host championship qualifying races each year. Of those, Niseko is one, and one of only two Asian destinations on the tour. “That’s testament to the quality and suitability of Niseko and Hokkaido as a road cycling destination,” says Kento Maeda, marketing manager for the local event the Niseko Classic. “Riders love the race here because of the beautiful views from the mountains out to the sea, the cool climate and fresh air, and wide, well-maintained roads.” The Niseko Classic has been staged for the past four years, featuring 70km and 140km races, and from this year a 3.4km time trial course. The event has grown from just 165 participants in its inaugural event in 2014 to 881 last year. This year they’re expecting more than 1000. Participants will come from all over the world to compete, but a majority of riders will be from Japan.

The UCI Gran Fondo differs from the professional world cycling tour in that the amateur participants generally can’t afford to tour the whole year to every destination. Instead, it’s largely riders competing just once in the race that is hosted closest to them, and for the top 25 per cent of finishers at each location, the opportunity to compete in a penultimate world championship race that is held in a different destination each year. Maeda-san is confident that destination could one day be Niseko. “UCI has said Niseko has a lot of potential so it would be incredible publicity for Niseko if we did secure the world championship event. That would mean the best amateur riders from all over the world would get a chance to experience Niseko in summer, and all the associated media coverage that would come with it.” █ www.nisekoclassic.com

NISEKO CL ASSIC 2018: 7 – 8 JULY Entry fees Time Trial:

MOUNTAINBIKE TRAILS

Entries open: December 15

TEXT MASHA SIMONOV P H OTO S G L E N C L AY D O N

A core crew of local mountain-bikers has been busy hacking through the undergrowth and sculpting the mountainsides over the past few summers building Niseko’s first “flow trails”. Flow trails are a modern form of mountain-bike trail ingeniously designed to suit a wide range of skill levels from relative beginners right through to pros. Rather than heading straight down steep mountains, these winding tracks allow for a gentle gradient featuring bumps, jumps and banked turns, allowing riders to cruise down or attack to their desire and skill level, with minimum pedalling and braking necessary. Following a highly successful pilot flowtrail project at small neighbouring resort Asahigaoka in summer 2016, two new trails were commissioned this year: one 3km/475m vertical track on the main slope of the Hirafu ski resort by newly established trail building company Niseko 9; and the Ginto Trail, a 1.8km trail on relatively flat terrain at a VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018

¥4000 / 70km: ¥12,000 / 140km: ¥14,000

25-hectare parcel of land on the eastern edge of greater Hirafu Village, built by another new company Trail & Track Japan. Development of the Ginto Trail was driven by Holiday Niseko, a local accommodation provider with a particular passion for mountain biking. The trail winds through designated green zones around the soon-to-be-developed Pavilions hotel and residences on existing but unmaintained forest tracks. The project was funded by the local community and businesses, and trails are free to the public. Trail & Track Japan founder Warrick Walsh has seen mountain biking paired successfully with ski resort towns across the world to bolster business in the summer, and is keen to see similar success reflected here in Niseko. “We want to make this a place you come to mountain bike,” he says. “Europe, New Zealand, Australia, the US – every ski resort is doing this and Niseko is next.” █ 4 6

Amateur riders of all abilities are welcome to join – and in fact plenty of people who live in Niseko and rarely do any riding at all manage to pump up the tyres on their old racers and give the 70km circuit a go. If you’re not a competitive cyclist but like the idea of entering an official cycling event and at the same time experience Niseko in the summer, this is an excellent opportunity. You will be in good company with plenty of rank amateurs (including this magazine’s editor) struggling towards the finish line!

8 FACTS ABOUT THE MTB MARKET • Mountain bikers are getting older and younger • The mountain bike market has spending power • Many mountain bikers are also skiers and hikers • Nature is the primary motive for mountain bikers • Most mountain biking takes place away from actual mountains

To balance out the weekend and provide an opportunity for non-competitive members of your party, a fun ride also takes place circuiting Mt Yotei. The 64km Niseko Yotei Circuit Fun Ride is relatively flat with just minor hills and plenty of rest breaks at different scenic spots, including the Ikeuchi Niseko Nature Center in Higashiyama, alongside Hirafu. █

• There is no such thing as an average mountain biker • Most mountain bikers don’t compete • The MTB “scene” doesn't represent most riders (SOURCE: Allegra Tourismus)

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PL AY + ACTION

GOLFING IN NISEKO TEXT JOHN BARTON

Golf in Japan – crowded and expensive? Not if you’re lucky enough to have discovered Niseko. In fact, up here it’s very much the opposite. Hokkaido is home to a staggering 172 golf courses – a third as many as Scotland, the home of golf – nine of which are within easy access of Niseko. Every course feels like it’s secluded deep in the Hokkaido wilderness, with rolling green hills and picturesque mountain peaks at every turn. Courses are well-maintained and interesting with some famous designers making their marks here too. Take it all in at the laid-back pace Hokkaido is renowned for and you have one of the best golfing setups in Asia, if not the world. One thing visiting golfers always marvel at is how good the golfing experience is here – in addition to the courses themselves, you have friendly locals and course staff, an onsen (hot spring bath) after the round and great food and drink in the evening. It is hard to beat a day of golf here. The only thing left to tell you is: if you plan to invest in Niseko, you’ll need to invest in a good set of golf clubs as well. █ VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018

GOLF COURSES: TOP PICKS Niseko Hanazono Golf Course | Par 72

(C'ship: 7003 Blue: 6760 Reg: 6343 Forward: 5278)

This beautiful course offers four tees for different abilities and a real test from the championship tees. It has some beautiful holes that please the eye and challenge the mind.

Niseko Village Golf Course | Par 73 (Blue: 6845 White: 6422 Red: 5313)

Located at the Hilton Niseko Village, between Mt Yotei and Mt Annupuri, this is a scenic, wide and somewhat forgiving course with a signature 721yard par-6 hole!

Niseko Golf Course | Par 72

(Black:6805 Blue:6306 White:5833 Red:5072)

This Arnold Palmer-designed course is a local favourite with incredible views and gradient changes to test your club selection. Great risk/reward par 5s and stunning par 3s.

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John Barton is the Director of Vacation Niseko and a former golf teaching pro who has been living in Niseko for eight years. Get in touch with John to help you plan your Niseko golf holiday on info@vacationniseko.com. 4 9

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L AKE TOYA PHOTO PAUL MAL ANDAIN

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ART + CULTURE

01 The old farm house 02 Gallery, workshop seminar space 03 Ceramics gallery and shop 04 Chef 's table 05 Cliff-side views 06 Tea room

When this 150-year-old farmhouse was built in the mountains of Tochigi north of Tokyo, Hokkaido wasn’t even officially a part of Japan. The northern frontier was almost wholly inhabited by the indigenous huntergatherer Ainu people, and very few isolated colonies of people of Japanese heritage existed anywhere on the island.

SOMOZA

A NEW PIECE OF

NISEKO HISTORY

STORY KRISTIAN LUND

It’s not surprising then that the traditional architectural forms that typify Japan are few and far between in Niseko, which was only settled by mainland Japanese in the late 1800s. It’s also one reason Somoza makes such a unique and captivating addition to the Niseko landscape.

PHOTOS A ARON JA MIESON

Somoza is the name given to this “new” Niseko cultural space by long-time resident Shouya Grigg. Within its walls Somoza houses a café and restaurant including outdoor terrace dining areas, several gallery spaces including a ceramics gallery/shop,

a traditional Japanese tea room, a private studio workspace, and a large, open basement gallery space that can be used for functions, seminars and even performances. A lover of Japanese art, culture and history in all its forms, Shouya embarked on the ambitious project to transplant the traditional “kominka” farm house from its mainland birthplace 700km away to a part of his land just near the Hanazono ski resort. “I bought it from a wealthy Japanese farming family and had it taken apart piece by piece then shipped up here and rebuilt,” Shouya says. “In these old houses the floor used to be soil. On one side would be where your horse lived, and then on the other side, the floor rises up and that's where you've got the tatami living areas and an irori (charcoal fire pit). Above that are massive beams and no ceiling, and it just goes all the way up to the roof.”

Shouya has used his creative licence to reimagine the space for its modern purposes in his signature industrial old-meets-new, East-meets-West style, without compromising its Japanese character. This included installing floor-to-ceiling glass across almost the entire length of one side of the building to take advantage of its exquisite backdrop – a clifftop perch in one corner of his sprawling property, overlooking a springfed mountain stream running through a valley descending from the Annupuri range beyond. “The land drops off into a valley with a beautiful river running through it,” he says. “I actually dug into the top of the cliff so the building looks down over the river and back up to the mountains. I added a semi-basement underneath, which you don't actually see from the entrance of the property because it’s below the original house, embedded in the cliff face. When you go downstairs you come into a big gallery, workshop and seminar space, which is all glass on the valley side.”

Shouya’s concept for Somoza was not for it to be locked up as a private home or accommodation, but rather for it to become a multi-purpose utilitarian public space that celebrates its spectacular natural setting, as well as the art, culture and food of Niseko year-round. “I wanted to create a unique space for people to experience the beauty of what's out there in all seasons,” he says. “For me nature always comes first – that's the most powerful thing. So if I can start with a great canvas with some interesting features like this location, then bring some other interesting things together such as this beautiful old building, and within it display art and found objects, alongside great food and interesting music, that’s what I like doing. My whole concept for this is that it’s not a restaurant, it’s not a café, it’s not a gallery – but when those things come together, then it becomes much more.”

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Somoza offers a different experience in every season, and even changes moods from day to day and hour to hour with the weather and sunlight. Be sure to visit once when you're here, and come back again to experience it in another of Niseko’s spectacular seasons. █

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ARCHITECTURE

01 Sunken lounge 02 Exterior facade 03 Geometric staircase 04 Master bedroom & floating patio

The building takes the form of three rectangular “blocks” supporting one another in alternating layers with three distinct areas: the lowest semi-underground level containing a “wellness area” with gym and onsen-style bath; the middle ground level the public domain of the house; and the top level private bedrooms. Upon approach the façade seems closed, offering privacy from the street and neighbouring properties. However, after entering it offers an element of surprise as the building opens to the landscape on the other side, allowing the impact of its location to unfold as guests walk through the house. “Openness and privacy – what seemed to be contradictory initially – in the end helped to enhance the panoramic views from the site,” Seshimo-san says. 01

CLEARWATER STORY KRISTIAN LUND PHOTOS A ARON JA MIESON

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Cantilevered over the cliff at the bottom of Lower Hirafu Village, with unprecedented views up two perpendicular reaches of the Shiribetsu River with Mt Yotei above, The Clearwater is among the most spectacular developments in Niseko. Proud and majestic, the home boasts a strong exterior but with intelligent architecture opens up inside with large, light living areas and an undeniable connection with the nature outside.

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Embedded in the cliff top, the 665sqm building hovers amongst shirakaba (silver birch) treetops, its interaction with its surroundings changing with the seasons. Hidden amongst the foliage in spring and summer, it transforms in late autumn as the leaves fall from the trees revealing spectacular views from all corners of the home. Its name is derived from the pure snowmelt that flows in the river below. Naoki Seshimo, one of the project architects, says the building “borrows” from its location, a trait common in Japanese architecture. “Where appropriate, the architecture draws the landscapes both near and far into the house by framing the views of the surrounding environment,” Seshimosan says. “The architecture would not be complete without the surrounding flora – foliage in the autumn, delicate branches in the snow scape, sprinkled leaf buds in the spring, and lush greenery in the summer.”

“Altogether, the building provides an environment that is simultaneously a luxurious celebration of the client’s many accomplishments, and a warm, casual, cabin-like space for both physical and mental relaxation with family and friends.” The powerful but minimalist exterior contrasts with the abundant use of natural wood and stone interior finishes which, together with the generously dimensioned furniture, provide supreme comfort. Pale timbers bounce light through the house and balance with the grey stone and concrete exterior. A geometrically elegant staircase provides views of the forest at different levels as guests move between floors, and is designed to serve as a symbolic, sculptural element. Entertaining and dining with friends and family were key considerations in the design brief. The main living area is split into two distinct zones – the kitchen and dining space featuring a 10-person solid walnut dining table with live edge, and an enormous lounge room that spills out onto its own external patio below Mt Yotei. A sunken lounge serves as an intermediary

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ARCHITECTURE

05 Dining room 06 Top floor retreat 07 Master bedroom

BEAUTIFUL, ALL YEAR ROUND between dining and living, and an alternative space to enjoy Mt Yotei. Adjacent to the kitchen and dining on the forest side is a paved terrace area with outdoor lounge setting, dining table and barbecue overlooking a sunken courtyard landscaped into the cliff face below. This outdoor living space is entirely designed for green-season recreation and living. 05

The use of light throughout is articulate and the architect has cleverly embraced the rectangular shape of the block to maximise not only the footprint of the building, but also its views and aspect to the seasonal path of the sun. On the top floor, a long hallway with a rectangular slit window running horizontally along its length offers a view to Mt Annupuri no matter where you stand, and allows angulated light to illuminate the entire level. This hallway leads to each of the five retreat-style en suite bedrooms set amidst the treetops, leaves and branches almost close enough to touch.

One of the most spectacular features of the home is the master bedroom, which crowns the building on the second floor with panoramic southerly views over the river and fields to Mt Yotei. A large balcony juts out into the top of the tree line, reaching out towards Mt Yotei and offering a truly unique vantage point in Hirafu, inspiring a feeling akin to standing on a ship’s bow. With its superlative location, imposing size and decadent layout, The Clearwater is representative of the next wave of boundarypushing architecture focussed on Niseko. However, with its complete consideration for liveability in all seasons – rather than just as a winter ski chalet – it’s also a poignant representative of the evolution of Niseko from winter ski resort to four-seasons lifestyle destination. █

Powderlife’s Partner in Niseko "One of the most spectacular features is the master bedroom, which crowns the building on the second floor with panoramic southerly views over the river and f ields to Mt Yotei."

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Stay just one night in a villa and you’ll never stay in a hotel again 5 6

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COMMUNIT Y

MEET THE HIS NISEKO TEACHERS

BARRY MERNIN

Principal

Mr Mernin is a Boston native with a master’s degree in science and maths education who has also taught at the prestigious Hong Kong International School and Singapore American School. Mr Mernin values lifelong learning and obtained a leadership certificate from the Principal’s Training Center for International Educators. Barry’s goal is to make HIS Niseko one of Japan’s leading international schools.

LOLA LAI

Early Years Teacher

HOKKAIDO INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL TEXT KRISTIAN LUND

There are about 30 international schools in Japan, all of them located in the biggest cities. All that is, except for one. The little potatofarming district of Niseko and neighbouring Kutchan – total population less than 20,000 – is the only regional area in the country that has enough foreign residents to warrant having its own international school. And it’s definitely the only one whose students get to ski Niseko's world-famous powder as part of its physical education curriculum! Currently with just over 20 students and plenty more on the way, the Hokkaido International School Niseko (HIS Niseko) was founded in 2011 after the number of foreign families living here year-round reached a critical mass. Before the school was established, the main options available to families were to go to one of the local Japanese schools, or for whole families to leave Niseko. Five years down the track, Niseko’s growth has continued to increase exponentially. Local companies now have dozens or even hundreds of staff year-round, and more and

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more multinational corporations are setting up operations here – Hilton, Park Hyatt, RitzCarlton being among the first few. At the foundation of all these companies’ success, is the success of HIS Niseko. A wellattended, high-quality school offering English language education allows these companies to retain international staff, and looking ahead will better equip them to attract the best candidates from around the world who need an English-language education for their children. HIS Niseko is a branch of Hokkaido International School based in Sapporo, which was established in 1958 and is Hokkaido’s only other international and English-language school. The private, secular, coeducational day/ boarding school is accredited by the Western Association of Schools and Colleges and is a member of the Japan Council of International Schools and the East Asia Regional Council of Overseas Schools. █

JOIN THE SUMMER SEASONAL SCHOOL! HIS Niseko offers a four-week summer school programme for non-residents to experience life in rural Hokkaido in the green season. Students practise independent and creative thinking skills alongside outdoor physical education activities – including off-season ski training! For details email his.niseko@his.ac.jp.

Ms Lola grew up in Singapore and after qualifying as an early-years educator developed an interest in modern educational techniques. After teaching in the field for a few years she travelled extensively, all the while gaining knowledge and insight on education around the world. She is passionate about building children’s self-esteem, inspiring creativity and fostering a sense of wonder.

HELP BUILD NISEKO'S INTERNATIONAL SUCCESS Quality independent education is expensive and many families living largely off the seasonal tourism industry in Niseko can’t afford to send one, let alone two or more children to HIS Niseko. Therefore last year the HIS Niseko Financial Aid Program was established to which a number of local companies kindly donated a total of ¥4 million (US$40,000). This directly subsidised the cost of education for students in need, and in turn the funding, viability and potential of the school If you or your organisation is passionate about education and the future of Niseko, and would like to make a tax-free donation towards the development of this vital Niseko institution, please contact Barry Mernin: bmernin@his.ac.jp or +81 (0)136-55-5252.

MEREK SINCLAIR

Kindergarten - Grade 2 Teacher

Australian Mr Sinclair first graduated with Honours in Asian Studies at Adelaide University specialising in Japanese Language, before also studying in Japan at Kansai Gaikokugo University. After graduating he became an ESL teacher in Japan, and has taught at many schools across Sapporo throughout all year levels. 5 9

VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018

SUMMER BUSINESS DIRECTORY

DISCOVER HOKKAIDO

BISTRO KUTCHAN SAKABA

GLOORIOUS COFFEE AT RHYTHM

KUTCHAN

IT’S THE BEST COFFEE IN TOWN!

GOOD WINES, GREAT TAPAS, NO FUSS

Nothing kicks off a morning in the mountains quite as nicely as an invigorating cup of specially brewed coffee! Gloorious cafés are located inside Rhythm Japan’s stores in both Niseko and Hakuba.

Chef Tsuyoshi, trained at Michelin-starred Kamimura Restaurant, combines fine cuisine with a dress-down atmosphere. Dishes are locally sourced, skillfully presented and simple. À la carte or course available. 5pm - 12 midnight (Last order 11pm) Closed Monday

QUALITY BUDGET RENTAL CARS SUMMER AND WINTER CAMPING KITS AVAILABLE (SUMMER) FOREIGN RESIDENT CAR REGISTRATION VEHICLE PURCHASE

*If you own property here we can register your car to your house – no need to be resident of Japan

6pm - 11pm (Last order 10.30pm) Open 7 days

8am - 2pm (Peak season 2pm - 6pm) Open 7 days

kutchansakaba.com 0136 55 5735

IZAKAYA KUSHIYA

MICK’S

NISEKO TOWN

Enjoy a warm and friendly traditional izakaya run by cruisy local surfers. Also with kids play space! Free pick-up service if 4+ people drinking alcohol (pick-up service booking essential by 6pm). nisekokushiya.jp 0136 55 8863

We stock current release, organic and biodynamic, rare vintage wines from all over the world. Craft beer, ciders & rare Japanese whisky. Local cheese, Hokkaido charcuterie.

UPPER HIRAFU VILL AGE

2pm - Late 99% chance of wine 7 days a week

micksniseko.com 0136 23 1608

YOKOCHAN

NISEKO VILL AGE

NISEKO'S ONE AND ONLY INDEPENDENT BOOKING & INFORMATION CENTRE

SEE YOKO CHAN FOR THE FIRST TIME? YOKO CHAN is an up-and-coming Japanese brand, best known for its iconic all-made-inJapan minimalistic dresses . Available from iZONE IKEUCHI at Niseko Village.

explore-niseko.com 050 5309 6905

9am - 8pm Open 7 days

JAPAN INTERNATIONAL ARTISANS

NISEKO

JAPANESE EFFICIENCY, WESTERN CREATIVITY

Hand-crafted in Niseko from stone, steel and wood

yokochan.com 0136 44 1182

MV WOODWORK

NISEKO TOWN

WOODWORK

jiaconstruct.com +81 (0)80 1145 1606 | gabrielohno.s63@gmail

NISEKO HOME DESIGN

10am - 8pm Open 7 days

See how your dream renovation, home or development is interpreted and brought to life with Japanese efficiency and Western creativity. Project management, construction, consulting, building assessment services. 8am - 6pm Monday - Friday

8am - 5pm Monday - Friday

We craft each project with great care and deliberation, ultimately aligning the needs of our clients with the buildings and custom woodwork we create. mvwoodwork.jp +81 (0)90 5938 8633

NISEKO

QUALITY, EXPERIENCE AND COMMUNICATION

ENVIRONMENT

That's why we have a growing portfolio of succesful projects with a focus on design and details. Construction feasibility, concept design, fit out, landscaping. We manage the entire building process from start to finish.

• Home construction and renovation • Fully licensed architect • Qualified and registered builder • Pre-purchase building inspections & reports 9am - 5pm Monday - Friday

OUR WORK EXCITES CURIOSITY AND DELIGHT: BUILDING – RENOVATION – CUSTOM WOODWORK

NISEKO PROJECTS

NISEKO TOWN

SPECIALIZING IN UNIQUE, HIGHQUALITY PROJECTS IN THE NISEKO

www.yoshitomodesign.com

HIRAFU INTERSECTION

LIFE’S TOO SHORT TO DRINK BAD WINE – SEE YOU AT MICK’S FOR A GLASS OR 2!

Explore Niseko provides a booking service for all your activity and tour needs in and around Niseko. Operated by locals, our welcoming and knowledgeable staff are here to help.

Yoshitomo Design

rhythmjapan.com 0136 23 0164

ALL YOUR FAVOURITE JAPANESE DISHES, ALL HOKKAIDO GROWN VEGETABLES

EXPLORE NISEKO

www.nisekocarrental.com

UPPER HIRAFU

nisekohomedesign.com +81 (0)136 55 8050

8.30am - 9pm Monday - Saturday 6 1

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THE ANNUPURI RANGE PHOTO CHARLIE WOOD

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