Creative Beads and Jewellery 10 by Practical Publishing

CBJ10 pp01 Cover UK_pp 30/11/2010 14:48 Page 1

! W E N

99 step-by-step designer projects

FREE

fabulous seed bead supplement with this issue See reverse for details

Issue 10

spiration for ALL levels of jewellery n i d n a s a e making and beadcrafts Id

Vintage chic 9

£1,692 w orth o to be f prizes won

easy ways to steal the look!

INSIDE:

WIREWORK MADE EASY

RECYCLED CHIC

COOL CORSAGES

THE LATEST LOOKS

Expert tips and tricks

Classy cuffs and more

On-trend ideas

Hot colours for 2011

w w w. p r a c t i c a l p u b l i s h i n g . c o . u k ISSUE 10 UK £3.99

Step-by-step illustrated guides to show you how...

Inspire Imagine Create

CBJ10 pp02 IFC CJ Beaders_CBJ 29/11/2010 14:39 Page 2

CBJ10 pp03 Welcome_Beading 02/12/2010 12:11 Page 3

WELCOME

out check o t t e g and for Don’t ential tools n s o our es ues guides q i n h 4 c te 90-9 pages

page

editor’s

FAVOURITE page

13 “This gorgeous curiosity cuff is packed with texture and quirky, interesting detail – and being created from reclaimed materials makes it unique”

hello...

… and welcome to Issue 10 of Creative Beads & Jewellery. If, like us, you’ve been having a wonderful time over-eating, over-spending and generally over-indulging, you’ll be as smitten as we are with the inspired ideas for reclaimed jewellery on page 12. The talented team at The Bead Shop (Nottingham) has come up with some fabulous, stylish designs using broken components, old beads and buttons, and all those other bits and pieces we can never quite bring ourselves to throw away. With post-Christmas purses feeling rather light, and environmental awareness being one of the key fashion trends for 2011, make creating your own version of these gorgeous pieces top of your New Year’s resolutions! This issue is packed with some of the hottest colours and brightest ideas for the new year. Honeysuckle pink, Coral Rose and Beeswax all feature on leading colour experts Pantone’s list of essential shades for Spring/Summer 2011 – and they’re shown off in all their glory on Jo Lochhead’s pendant on page 66 – while Sandy Kidulis’s brilliant stalactite and stalagmite pieces on page 32 make the most of ultra-cool Regatta blue and Blue Caracao. And if you loved Pantone’s Colour of 2010 – vibrant turquoise – as much as we did, you won’t be able to resist the slightly subtler, icy seafoam, combined with glittering silver in the lovely Beads Direct projects on page 80. I hope you enjoy the fabulous seed bead supplement, FREE with this issue. It’s packed with our designers’ favourite seed bead projects, from fun beaded ﬂower and dragonﬂy shapes to elegant evening pieces

EDITORIAL Editor – Anna Wright Editorial Assistants – Lindsey Hopkins, Judith Hannington Art Editor – Roy Birch Sub-Editors – Lee Jepson, Justine Moran Photographer – Rachel Burgess CONTRIBUTORS Sarah Austin, Rachel Bishop, Rachel Bland, Mel Brooke, Dawn Cotton Fuge, Monika Gadomska, Sarah Goode, Emma Gordon, Gemma Gray, Stephie Hall, Judith Hannington, Lindsey Hopkins, Ruth Hughes, Karen Jordan, Emily Kersh, Sandy Kidulis, Jo Lochhead, Aurora Lombardo, Lori Pate-Greene, Helen Sadler, Lisa Scholey, Gill Teasdale, Beata Winnik

Whilst every care is taken in the writing, research and preparation of this magazine, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors in articles or advertisements, or for the contents of websites reviewed. The views expressed herein are not necessarily the opinion of the publisher. All copyrights and trademarks are acknowledged.

Meanwhile, Sarah Austin’s surprisingly simple geometric designs on page 76 bring the ancient art of chain maille bang up to date. And Mel Brooke’s fabulous corsage pins on page 60 layer fabric and beads for a chunky, textured look that is right on trend. If you, or someone close to you, is celebrating a birthday in January, turn to page 40 for the ﬁrst part of our new birthstones series. We kick off this issue with a closer look at beautiful garnet – and suggestions for the perfect alternative if your budget doesn’t quite stretch to the real thing. Finally, if you’re resolving to try something new in your jewellery making this year, our designers have got plenty of inspirational advice. Whether you want to try your hand at creating sawn glass shapes (page 24), soldering metal (page 34), using friendly plastic or Fimo (page 48), enamelling your pieces (page 70) or adding shimmering silver to lampwork beads (page 84), we’ve got it all covered! Happy New Year!

Editor anna.wright@practicalpublishing.co.uk

PS... Issue 23 of our sister title Creative Cardmaking is now on sale. Packed full of papercrafting tips and ideas, and with a new look, the magazine comes with free Joanna Sheen papers and die-cuts. Get your copy now – available from your local craft shop

PUBLISHING & ADVERTISING Publishing Assistant – Janice Whitton janice.whitton@practicalpublishing.co.uk Specialist Retail Account Manager – Chris Cooke chris.cooke@practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 01625 855023 Advertising Sales Executive – Cathy Campbell cathy.campbell@practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 01625 855005 Group Sales Manager – Kevin Edwards kevin.edwards@practicalpublishing.co.uk Advertising Co-ordinator – Rachael Edmunds Financial Director – Karen Battrick Managing Editors – Diane Grimshaw, Gavin Burrell Associate Publisher – Iain Anderson Publishing Director – Dave Cusick Managing Director – Danny Bowler Chairman – Robin Wilkinson The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity.

SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES Tel: 0844 561 1203 DISTRIBUTION Newstrade – COMAG Magazine Distribution Craft Trade Distribution – Practical Publishing International Ltd Tel: 0844 561 1202 CONTACT Practical Publishing International Ltd, Unit 1, Adlington Court, Adlington Business Park, Macclesfield, Cheshire UK SK10 4NL info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202; Fax: 01625 855011

Creative Beads & Jewellery is published by Practical Publishing International Ltd. All material © Practical Publishing International Ltd. The style and mark of Creative Beads & Jewellery is used under licence from Craft Media Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of Practical Publishing International Ltd. Creative Beads & Jewellery ISSN 2042-5309

www.creativebeadsandjewellery.com

CBJ10 pp04-05 Contents_CBJ 02/12/2010 11:56 Page 4

CONTENTS

What’s inside this issue of GET THE LOOK

FREE SUPPLEMENT

Packed with step-by-step guides to help you recreate our designers’ fabulous pieces

Our seed bead supplement will provide you with inspiration for your own fantastic creations

INSPIRATION

GIVEAWAYS GALORE!

Packed with exclusive projects and the very latest products, trends and ideas

Snap up some great prizes in our fabulous giveaways and competitions

48 MARVELLOUS METAL

58 CREATIVE CORSAGE

Our talented team of designers go gothic this issue with the ever-popular bead challenge

Wonderful – and useful – brooch-style designs using a range of gorgeous materials

64 WAYS WITH WIRE

84 STUNNING SILVER

Follow our clever tips and tricks for making impressive wirework creations

Combine beautiful lampwork beads with silver components for the very latest look

regulars 06 News

We take a look at what’s new in the world of jewellery and beads

10 Readers’ Letters

Your ideas, views and top tips

16&79 Competitions

46 Subscription Offer

Subscribe to Creative Beads & Jewellery and get more inspiration for less!

48 The Bead Challenge

Our three designers work their individual magic with another gorgeous bead mix

56 72

This issue we have Empire Beads vouchers and show tickets to give away!

& Designer Gallery We showcase readers’ top creations – plus how to get your work on our pages

30 Bead Doctor

67 Giveaways

All your questions answered

42,68 74

& Shopping Indulge in a little retail therapy

www.creativebeadsandjewellery.com

£££s worth of products up for grabs

88 What’s On

Don’t miss out on the hottest jewellery shows and class dates this season

90 Techniques Glossary

Master the basic techniques with our step-by-step guides

92 Findings Glossary

Our round-up of the vital components of jewellery making

94 Tools Glossary

The lowdown on all the tools of the trade

98 Coming Next Issue

A peek at what’s coming up in Issue 11

CBJ10 pp04-05 Contents_CBJ 02/12/2010 11:56 Page 5

CONTENTS

features 34 Melting Pot

It may sound intimidatingly industrial, but mastering soldering opens up a whole new world of beautiful metalwork creations

64 Bend It, Shape It

Karen Jordan shares clever tricks with wire and pliers for delicate silver shapes and spirals teamed with pretty blue beads

40 Birthstones – Garnet

We start our new series on birthstone jewellery with a closer look at beautiful garnet, with its deep, warming tones

12 Something Old, Something New Save money – and the planet! – by recycling broken jewellery components, scrap metal and odd buttons and beads into stunning new designs

18 Northern Lights

These chunky lampwork beads with shimmering AB patches make a dramatic statement. Let them take centre stage with interesting designs that show them off in all their glory

44 All Things Bright & Beautiful

Emily Kersh escapes the cold weather with fun, funky seed bead creations that are bursting with life!

70 A Snowﬂake Fell

Precious Metal Clay lends itself perfectly to easy enamelling. Emma Gordon introduces us to the Champléve technique

24 Cut Glass

With a ring saw you can create almost any shape for your glass creations, from swirls and stars to butterﬂies and ﬂowers. Be inspired by Judith Hannington’s tips and ideas

32 Secret Grotto

Sandy Kidulis uses a shimmering array of different freshwater pearls to create a stalactites and stalagmites set in gorgeous glacial colours

54 Swinging Sixties

76 Ins and Outs of Chain Maille

58 Needles and Pins

80 Ice Queen

This monochromatic combination is timeless, with a stylised pattern reminiscent of the Sixties that is right on trend

Corsage pins are a winter essential – Dawn Cotton Fuge and Mel Brooke create some beautiful brooch-style designs with a twist

Sarah Austin guides you through European 4-1 weave and how to create bang-on-trend geometric designs

Three Beads Direct designers demonstrate different ways to highlight gorgeous wintry ice blue using cool silver

www.creativebeadsandjewellery.com

CBJ10 pp06-08 News_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:13 Page 6

NEWS

what’s

NEW? Sit back and relax as we bring you the latest from the world of jewellery making

SIMPLY CHARMING There’s a stunning array of gorgeous silver charms available from Big Bead Little Bead. Ideal for use as accents or the main focus of a project, these little charmers come in all kinds of shapes and sizes, plain silver or with bead elements, and in such fun, novel themes as cars, champagne coolers, cups and saucers, and even a ﬁre extinguisher! Great for truly personalising your projects. RRP: from £3 Also available are the extremely collectable Nuvo and Chim charms,

BEADS OF THE MONTH Back by popular demand is this lovely bead selection from Westcoast. This value pack would cost £34 if the beads were bought separately, but the fabulous January 2011 Beads of the Month collection pictured can now be snapped up for just £25. Contents include Murano glass Klimt Pepita beads, mother of pearl and freshwater pearl bead strands, ﬁre polished beads, oil slick glass beads

www.creativebeadsandjewellery.com

priced from £10, so head over to the website for a closer look. To see the full range, go to www.bigbeadlittlebead.com or call 01462 438233 for more details We have a vintage sterling silver charm bracelet and two charms to give away, worth £30, so for your chance to win them send your name and address on a postcard to CB&J10 BBLB charms, Practical Publishing, Unit 1 Adlington Court, Adlington Business Park, Macclesfield, Cheshire SK10 4NL to arrive by 20th January 2011

and Czech seed beads. The beads are accompanied by a booklet of designs using the beads, with photos, diagrams and instructions for creating some beautiful pieces. Findings packs are also available to co-ordinate with the beads and booklet designs, so head over to the website to take a look. For more details, go to www.westcoastwholesale jewellery.com or call 01928 723263

BEADING BY NUMBERS There are some lovely new products now available from Beads 47, so take a trip to the website for a fabulous range of jewellery supplies. You’ll find a wide selection of 1mm leather cords at 55p per metre, as well as a charming bracelet design for making the most of them on the website. The bracelet uses three different-coloured cords, combined with silver rings, beads and findings for a great look. Beads 47 has also added some fun children’s jewellery kits to its range, priced from £4.95 and ideal for keeping busy fingers and inquisitive minds occupied during the cold weather, plus you’ll find Pandora beads, children’s bracelets and keyrings, various sizes of gold and silver wire and 0.5mm wire and crinkle wire for knitting and crochet work. Head over to www.beads47.co.uk or call 01202 242622 for more details

CBJ10 pp06-08 News_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:13 Page 7

NEWS LOVE IS IN THE AIR PICK & MIX These stylish new glass beads from Gütermann creativ are ideal for all kinds of craft projects. Presented in a fun, glass sweet jar-style container, a great range of colours is available, plus each jar includes a lovely selection of different styles, sizes and shades of bead. Whether you’re making jewellery, embellishing an outﬁt, creating a bag charm or even brightening up a home décor piece, there’s sure to be one of the seven different colourways to suit. RRP: £6.85 for a 180g jar Gütermann creativ products are available nationwide from craft and hobby shops. For stockists details, email gütermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk or call 01453 883581

Thread A Bead has added yet another lovely, unique ornament pattern to its catalogue, designed by beader Lynsey James. This Valentine photo frame is a great way to put your beading skills to work for an extra special gift to your loved one this February. It’s estimated that the project should take around two hours to complete. It measures approximately 4.75x5cm when ﬁnished, minus the loop, and is comprised of a peyote Delica heart-shaped frame with a ﬁre polished and Delica bead loop. Ideal for a Valentine’s gift, but also great for weddings, anniversaries and other romantic occasions, the pattern is available for purchase and download from Thread A Bead for £3.75, with more than 40 clear step-by-step instructions with colour photographs. A heart template is also included, as well as the Roses are Red poem for attaching to the reverse of the frame. Available from 1st January 2011. For more information and to see the impressive array of beading patterns available, go to www.threadabead.com We have 10 Valentine photo frame patterns to give away, so for your chance to win one send your name and email address on a postcard to CB&J10 Thread A Bead, Practical Publishing, Unit 1 Adlington Court, Adlington Business Park, Macclesfield, Cheshire SK10 4NL to arrive by 20th January 2011

P FOR PLATINUM B for Beads first started its platinum-plated range with alphabet charms, which can be used for jewellery making, cards, scrapbooking or adding an identity to that special wrapped present. The staff at B for Beads are so pleased with the quality of their platinumplated products that they keep adding more, and now included in the range are pendants, charms and lockets, plus a small selection of beads that is set to grow in size, and also a good choice of headpins, eyepins, jump rings, ear wires and clasps. The majority of the platinum-plated products are nickel free. To see the full range available, go to www.b-for-beads.co.uk or call 01352 755532

www.creativebeadsandjewellery.com

CBJ10 pp06-08 News_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:13 Page 8

NEWS IN STITCHES With knitting, sewing, jewellery making and papercrafts becoming more fashionable than ever, pay a visit to Creative Stitches & Hobbycrafts in Brighton, Glasgow or Liverpool this spring and start creating you very own heirlooms! With hundreds of exhibitors showcasing all the very latest techniques and products in the world of creative crafts, you’re sure to find all the designs, ideas and supplies you need to take up a new craft this New Year. As well as an amazing range of suppliers to choose from, the Creative Stitches & Hobbycrafts shows have a wealth of great features to keep you entertained. Choose from an amazing 9x6m international knitting project, ‘Above and Below the Waves’, with a fantastic 3D walk-through tunnel where visitors will find everything fishy and nautical, including a few surprises! ‘The Undoing of the Corset’ follows a fascinating history of underwear, showing how it shaped the changing outlines of fashion through every era and gave more freedom as women gained more rights. If you’re a fan of the Beatles, Carnaby Street and all things Sixties, make sure you visit ‘Glimpses of the Swinging Sixties’. This exciting embroidery display

shows the best entries from the prestigious Stitch/Madeira 2010 competition, which epitomises the Sixties through the beautiful craft of embroidery. The Brighton Centre, Brighton, East Sussex 11th-13th February 2011 Open 9.30am-5pm (Saturday 5.30pm) Adults £7 on the door (£5 in advance) Seniors £6 on the door (£4 in advance) SECC, Glasgow 3rd-6th March 2011 Open 9.30am-5pm (Saturday 5.30pm) Adults £7 on the door (£5.50 in advance) Seniors £6 on the door (£4.50 in advance) Aintree Pavilion, Liverpool 20th-22nd May 2011 Open 9.30am-5pm (Saturday 5.30pm)

Adults £6.50 on the door (£4.50 in advance) Seniors £5.50 on the door (£3.50 in advance) Children under 16 free if accompanied by an adult Buy tickets online at www.ichf.co.uk or call the ticket hotline on 01425 277988 We have five pairs of tickets to give away to each of the three shows this spring, so for your chance to win a set send your name and address on a postcard to CB&J10 Creative Stitches Brighton Centre, CB&J10 Creative Stitches SECC or CB&J10 Creative Stitches Liverpool, Practical Publishing, Unit 1 Adlington Court, Adlington Business Park, Macclesfield, Cheshire SK10 4NL to arrive by 20th January 2011

TINY TREASURES The new selection of charms from Beads Unlimited offers perfect gift options for beading fans of all ages. From the cute kitsch teapots, owls and anchors to delicate leaves and birds, they can add some silver shimmer or antique gold glamour to any project, or you can simply add them to a charm bracelet for a perfect ﬁnish. Prices start at 8p, with big discounts for small wholesale quantities. Be charmed at www.beads unlimited.co.uk

CHAIN MAILLE MADE EASY If you’re a big fan of chain maille, you’ll be pleased to hear that the Artistic Wire brand now boasts a lovely selection of jump rings speciﬁcally designed for this age-old technique. These jump rings are precision cut and go through stringent quality control measures to ensure diameter and colour consistency, as maintaining this consistent shape ensures a more even and constant weave when used.

www.creativebeadsandjewellery.com

Rings can be opened and closed using regular pliers and each pack contains an ample supply of jump rings to create a range of different designs. What’s more, each pack of the new jump rings features eight of the most popular chain maille weaves, including Byzantine, Turkish Round and Foxtail, along with a listing of the size and quantity of jump rings needed to create the weave. Ask your favorite bead shop or supplier for Beadalon products. For more information, visit www.beadalon.com

We have £10 worth of charms to give away to three lucky readers, so for your chance to be one of them send your name and address on a postcard to CB&J10 Beads Unlimited Charms, Practical Publishing, Unit 1 Adlington Court, Adlington Business Park, Macclesfield, Cheshire SK10 4NL to arrive by 20th January 2011

CBJ10 pp09 Bedazzled_CBJ 26/11/2010 11:08 Page 9

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CBJ10 pp10-11 Letters_Beading 01/12/2010 10:45 Page 10

LETTERS

For all your beading requirements, visit:

your LETTERS We’d love to hear from you, so please share your ideas, opinions and top tips with us. Email letters@ practicalpublishing.co.uk or write to Letters, CB&J, Practical Publishing, Unit 1 Adlington Court, Adlington Business Park, Macclesfield, Cheshire SK10 4NL STEAMPUNK ROCKS! I loved the Shiney Company’s take on the steampunk style in Issue 8. I’m a fan of this kind of creation myself and have always stuck to

FESTIVE FINERY What a lovely idea for a Christmas decoration! I adored the festive wreath projects created by The Bead Shop (Nottingham) in Issue 8. I’ll be going for my usual contemporary Christmas colours this year for home décor, and as a beader I can’t wait to try making my own wintry wreaths. Thanks girls! Gloria Edmunds, by email CB&J: The wreaths were simply beautiful

a grungy, recycled, matt metal look, but Amanda and Jane have given me a different viewpoint! It was also great to see the steampunk pendant creation by Rebecca Rogers in the

and would be perfect for decorating your contemporary tree, and even hanging from door handles and

www.creativebeadsandjewellery.com

Designer Gallery. I love the fact that so many tastes and styles are catered for in Creative Beads & Jewellery. Emma Williams, by email CB&J: Thank you, Emma, we couldn’t agree more! The girls at the Shiney Company came up trumps again with this set – steampunk style with a modern twist was a great way to broaden the appeal of a look that is all about individual expression.

light shades for some seasonal sparkle. Create a traditional look just by changing the colours!

INSPIRED BY CHOCOLATE I just wanted to say how much I love your magazine! There are so many talented, exciting people out there with great ideas. I’ve sent this necklace in for you to see. One afternoon I was indulging in a Terry’s Chocolate Orange and suddenly the taste gave me my inspiration for this piece, hence why I’ve decided to call it ‘Chocolate & Orange Dream’. I couldn’t resist using the bright orange beads from my stash, and I also added velvet brown ribbon and hemp cord. Off I went, beading away to my heart’s content! I hope you like my idea. I also think that this

necklace would make a rather lovely Christmas present. Ann Halpin, Worcester CB&J: We can almost taste that Chocolate Orange from here, Ann. Thank you for sending in such a fun (and calorie-free) creation!

EYE-OPENER I loved the bright, vibrant colours in Lisa Jagger’s ‘Dancing Queen’ bracelet in Issue 8. It practically leapt out at me when I turned the page and I thought it was really inventive to use a watch-style cha cha bracelet blank. I’ve never seen a ladies’ bracelet made using one of these and it made it so original! Heather Small, London

CBJ10 pp10-11 Letters_Beading 01/12/2010 10:46 Page 11

LETTERS

www.empirebeads.co.uk got some supplies and picked up your brilliant magazine. Fantastic! I especially liked the Bead Challenge article – this proved that with a pile of beads and the FLYING START knowledge of simple I had a mad idea. Fed loops and how to up with my usual attach ﬁndings and so hobbies, I wanted on, you can easily ﬁnd something new to try, inspiration and create but with two young unique projects. boys (aged two and I’ve made a few four), who has the time? things so far, but have I fancied having a go at still to learn more jewellery making, but techniques. Here’s one where do you start? I of my early projects – very simple but it looks effective. I’m ETTER now inspired to make STAR Lner of this more jewellery for The winStar Letter presents, thanks to issue’s a fantastic er s receive Beads vouch your magazine, pire o.uk and who knows £50 Emmpirebeads.c www.e what the future holds? Thanks and keep up the good work. I love the projects and am

STAR LETTER

ICE PRINCESS I’ve always made my daughter a little New Year’s gift and this year I decided to make her a set of jewellery. The ‘Girls’ Night Out’ projects in Issue 8 have given me just the inspiration I need for making co-ordinating jewellery to go with my daughter’s New Year’s Eve dress. She got a bit ahead of herself this year and bought a lovely plum-coloured

dress way back in July! I’ve been struggling to come up with a new idea for co-ordinating jewellery ever since and now know exactly what I’ll be doing for her. Sharon, by email CB&J: We’re so glad to hear we brought you the inspiration you needed, Sharon, and we’re sure your daughter will be delighted with her fabulous party pieces!

looking forward to trying some. Caron French, Isle of Wight CB&J: We’re so pleased that we have helped you get your

teeth into such a rewarding new hobby, Caron! We’re sure this £50 Empire Beads voucher will go a long way to getting you off on the right footing.

and plan on starting an Etsy site as well as trying a stand at my kids’ school fair. If all goes well, I may even branch out to a craft fair! Jemma Button, by email CB&J: Best of luck in your venture, Jemma.

Please do let us know how you get on.

LUCKY IN LINCOLNSHIRE I haven’t been making jewellery for very long and bought Issue 1 of Creative Beads &

Jewellery to give me some great ideas. I loved it so much I decided to subscribe and now look forward to receiving my copy through the post every month. There is so much to read and so many projects to try, and I also love all the giveaways! I would like to thank you for the prizes I’ve received. I was so surprised and very lucky to win the Fiskars punches and craft drill from the Issue 5 competition, as well as beads and a book. I’m going to make sure that I keep sending my postcards just in case, and I would also like to wish all the other readers luck – if you don’t send in your cards, you don’t stand a chance of winning some great items! Helen Wright, Grimsby CB&J: Congratulations, Helen. It sounds like you’ve been going through a lucky spell, but you’re right – you’ve got to be in it to win it! Turn to pages 16, 67 and 79 to see the great prizes we have up for grabs this issue.

BUSINESS SENSE Thanks for including the article by Ruth Hughes on turning hobbies into businesses. This is something I’ve considered for quite some time now, though I’ve only ever sold my creations to friends in the past. I’ve reread Ruth’s article a few times

www.creativebeadsandjewellery.com

CBJ10 pp12-15 Bead Shop Nott_CBJ 01/12/2010 16:25 Page 12

RECLAIMED JEWELLERY USING SCRAP COMPONENTS

something old, SOMETHING NEW Save money – and the planet! – by recycling broken jewellery components, scrap metal, and odd buttons and beads into stunning new designs. The eco-friendly team at The Bead Shop (Nottingham) shows you how...

RACHEL BLAND, HELEN SADLER & LISA SCHOLEY DESIGNERS

ABOUT THE DESIGNERS… Rachel has been creating beautiful jewellery for almost six years and has a flair for colour and design. She teaches many of the workshops at The Bead Shop (Nottingham) Ltd. Helen is the visual merchandiser for The Bead Shop, where

she uses her passion for jewellery and talent for combining colours to create stunning designs. Lisa has recently joined the team at The Bead Shop and has learnt fast! With a keen eye for unusual design she is able to make wonderfully unique jewellery.

www.creativebeadsandjewellery.com

CBJ10 pp12-15 Bead Shop Nott_CBJ 01/12/2010 16:25 Page 13

RECLAIMED JEWELLERY USING SCRAP COMPONENTS CURIOSITY CUFF

MATERIALS • 3 x Vintage Patina Trinity Brass Rosa large filigrees • 2 x Vintage Patina Trinity Brass medium lobster clasps • 10cm Vintage Patina Trinity Brass large etched cable chain • 8 x Vintage Patina Trinity Brass 6mm jump rings

• 1m brass 0.4mm wire • 50cm mesh ribbon or lace • assorted old buttons, beads and charms

TO CREATE

piece in a spiral shape. Catch the inside edge of the ribbon as you stitch around. Once the ribbon is secure, use the rest of the wire to stitch on the decorative items. Incorporate old buttons, a selection of co-ordinating beads and some charms. Arrange the ribbon around the beads before you fasten the wire off. You may want to stitch down some more between the decorations for a more ruffled effect. Fasten off the wire by threading to the

Using large bail-making pliers, gently bend the opposite edges of two filigree pieces over to form a curved shape – these will sit on the side of the wrist. Following the same method, slightly curve the edges of the remaining filigree piece. This will sit on the top of the wrist so does not need as deep a curve as the other pieces. Leaving a 1cm gap in the middle, use the wire to ‘stitch’ the mesh ribbon onto the slightly curved filigree

TOOLS • • • •

bail-making pliers flat-nosed pliers side cutters tweezers

back of the piece, twisting around an existing bit of wire, then threading back to the front and cutting off the excess as closely as possible. Using tweezers, push the cut end

between some of the beads so the wire won’t scratch the wearer. To connect the three filigree pieces together, twist open 6mm jump rings to attach the two curved pieces each side of the

decorated piece. Attach two lobster clasps to one edge of the cuff using jump rings and two separate lengths of chain to the other. Ensure the holes used are aligned so that the cuff sits straight.

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CBJ10 pp12-15 Bead Shop Nott_CBJ 01/12/2010 16:25 Page 14

RECLAIMED JEWELLERY USING SCRAP COMPONENTS MATERIALS • 2 x silver-plated kilt pins with loops • 5 x trigger clasps of various sizes and plating • assorted jump rings of various sizes • assorted beads, findings and chain

MAKE DO AND MEND BROOCH DESIGNED BY HELEN SADLER

TOOLS • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers • side cutters

TO CREATE Gather together your chosen materials – I used a selection of chain scraps, odd beads and broken or unpaired findings, most gathered from half-finished projects! Thread any beads onto eyepins and make a loop using round-nosed pliers.

Using jump rings, link any short pieces of chain together to form a longer length. Create three lengths made up of the linked scraps of chain, beads and findings. Make one 35cm,

lengths cross over – it all adds to the effect. Add any leftover bits at random places along the length of the linked pieces to create interest. Here, I used a safety pin, half a toggle clasp and an unfinished piece of chain maille.

another 44cm and the final one 58cm. Add a trigger clasp to each end of the

linked pieces, then attach them to the loops on the kilt pin. Don’t worry if the

Arrange all your pieces of chain, headpins and eyepins in length order. If you find you have a few much longer lengths of chain, cut them up into shorter lengths. Cut a 5cm length of 1mm copper wire and create a loop at one end. Starting with a few shorter lengths, thread the ends of the chain and the pins onto the copper wire. Use the longer lengths of chain in the centre and shorter ones at the ends. Make another loop at the end of the copper wire. Cut two 50cm lengths of fine oval cable chain, fold each one in half and attach both ends to the loops either side of the copper wire. On one side of the chain, use a 4mm jump ring to add a trigger clasp. On the other side, add an extra link of chain to act as a jump ring.

SCRAP METAL NECKLACE DESIGNED BY LISA SCHOLEY

MATERIALS • antique silver Trinity Brass Co fine oval cable chain • copper 1mm wire • antique silver Trinity Brass Co small trigger clasp • antique silver Trinity Brass Co 4mm jump ring • assorted misshapen headpins, broken clasps, jump rings, cord ends and similar • assorted odd or chipped beads

TOOLS • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers • side cutters

7 TO CREATE Gather up all your broken bits of findings and all your offcuts of chain from previous projects – no matter how small or what type, they can be

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made use of. Incorporate any chipped or odd beads into the necklace – thread them onto headpins and create a loop at the end, leaving the pin long.

Use eyepins to attach used or broken findings (cord ends, trigger clasps and misshapen jump rings work well), then make a loop in each pin, varying the lengths.

CBJ10 pp12-15 Bead Shop Nott_CBJ 01/12/2010 16:25 Page 15

RECLAIMED JEWELLERY USING SCRAP COMPONENTS MATERIALS • silver-plated sieve ring • 2 x silver-plated headpins • 3 x copper headpins • 2 x black headpins • assorted odd beads – I used a selection of haematite, blue goldstone and amethyst semi-precious beads and an aqua AB Swarovski Elements 4mm cube bead

TOOLS • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers

EXPLOSION RING DESIGNED BY LISA SCHOLEY TO CREATE Thread a headpin through the bottom of the sieve ring, thread on a bead and form a wrapped loop, wrapping all the wire to form elaborate twists. Repeat Step 1, building up an assortment of beads

and using smaller ones to fill in any gaps – the more random the better. On longer lengths of wire for wrapping, thread smaller beads onto

the ends to add more height to the design. Use the wire remaining on the headpins to wrap around the outside edge of the sieve.

WHERE TO BUY

All the materials used here are available from The Bead Shop (Nottingham) Ltd; www.mailorder-beads.co.uk; 0115 958 8899

CLASP EARRINGS

TOP TIP

Unusual designs and random creations are great ways of using up those odd leftover beads from previous projects. Gather together the bits and pieces you have in a small pot – by grouping them like this, you can see if there are any shapes or colours that don’t work with your collection before you commit them to your jewellery

MATERIALS

TO CREATE Attach a fish hook to the small loop on the ring part of the toggle clasp, then clip three hook clasps onto the large end of the toggle clasp. Clip the three hook clasps to the loops on one side of the three-strand clasp.

1 2

Use a 4mm silver jump ring to attach a black trigger clasp to the middle loop on the other side of the three-strand clasp. Use a 4mm silver and 5mm black jump ring to attach a large silver-plated trigger clasp to the other two loops on this

3 4

side of the clasp. Clip the two large trigger clasps onto the loops of the twostrand clasp. Using a 4mm silver jump ring, attach a medium antique silver trigger clasp onto one loop on the opposite side of the two-strand clasp.

5 6

• silver-plated fish hook ear wires • 2 x silver-plated small toggle clasps • 6 x silver-plated spring-hook clasps • 2 x 3-strand sliding clasps • 2 x 2-strand sliding clasps • 8 x silver-plated 4mm jump rings • 6 x black 5mm jump rings

Attach a 5mm black jump ring to a small antique silver trigger clasp. Clip the small trigger clasp onto the other loop

• 2 x black medium trigger clasps • 4 x silver-plated large trigger clasps • 2 x antique silver Trinity Brass Co small trigger clasps • 2 x antique silver Trinity Brass Co medium trigger clasps

TOOLS • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers

of the two-strand clasp and clip the 5mm jump ring into the medium trigger clasp. Repeat to make the second earring.

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CBJ10 pp16 Empire Beads Comp_CBJ 01/12/2010 14:58 Page 16

COMPETITION

Empire Beads

hat’s right! You can take your pick from the amazing array of products available from Empire Beads if you’re one of our 10 lucky winners! Each winner will receive a £50 voucher to spend online at the Empire Beads store, so be sure to send your email address along with your entry. Empire Beads ﬁrst

began over 30 years ago and is now one of Australasia’s largest and most respected suppliers of beading and jewellery materials, thanks to its efﬁcient and userfriendly website. The company has since opened a stateof-the-art warehouse in Oxford, meaning that UK jewellery makers and beaders can now also choose

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£500 worth of

Empire Beads vouchers to be won!

from its extensive range of quality products from the comfort and convenience of their own homes. The Empire Beads motto, ‘Every bead for everybody’, means you’re sure to ﬁnd the perfect beads and accessories for your project!

To win one of the 10 £50 vouchers up for grabs this issue, send your name, address and email address on a postcard to CB&J10 Empire Beads, Practical Publishing, Unit 1 Adlington Court, Adlington Business Park, Macclesfield, Cheshire SK10 4NL to arrive by 20th January 2011. NB: By entering this competition, you accept that your details may be passed on to a third party.

Be sure to take a look at the amazing range of products available from Empire Beads by going to www.empirebeads.co.uk, or call 01235 527335 for more information

CBJ10 pp17 JillyBeads_CBJ 25/11/2010 11:35 Page 9

CBJ10 pp18-21 JillyBeads Northern Lights_CBJ 01/12/2010 10:42 Page 18

STATEMENT JEWELLERY DICHROIC PATCH BEADS

northern GILL TEASDALE DESIGNER

MATERIALS • 3 x jade AB patch chunky tube beads • 3 x jet AB patch chunky tube beads • 2 x jade AB patch flat coin beads • jet AB patch flat coin bead • 12 x jet AB2x 6mm Swarovski Elements Xilion beads • 4 x jet AB 8mm Czech fire polished round beads • 2 x mixed green 8mm Czech fire polished round beads • 18 x golden petal rondelle spacers • gold 20g Artistic Wire • black 1mm beading silk (with integral needle) • 1.5m green rat-tail • 1.2m gold-plated extension chain • 1.2m gunmetal extension chain • 18 x gunmetal 7mm jump rings • 2 x gold-plated 8mm end fasteners with loop • 2 x gold-plated 5mm jump rings • gold-plated 13mm trigger catch

TOOLS • round-nosed, chain-nosed and flat-nosed pliers • side cutters

This glittering longline necklace swings and swishes, showing off the beautiful beads to perfection! The decorative wrapped loops also ensure there are no breakages should it get caught during wear. The pattern of AB patches is random and the length optional, so

LIGHTS

These chunky lampwork beads with shimmering AB patches certainly make a dramatic statement. Let them take centre stage with interesting designs that show them off in all their glory Carry on working in this manner, alternating wrapped eye loop connectors and coins until you have used all the beads or the necklace has reached your required length. Lay the ends of the rat-tail and silk lengths in one of the end fasteners and fold over the sides using flat-nosed pliers. Repeat for the other end. Open a 5mm gold-plated jump ring, slip it onto the loop on one of the end fasteners, and slip on the last link of both of the chain lengths. Close the jump ring. Open a 7mm gunmetal jump ring. Slip it onto the first knot. Take the chains, carry them loosely alongside the strands and hook one link of each onto the jump ring. Close the jump ring. Carry on along the necklace, adding a jump ring and hooking the chains onto each knot. Slip a 5mm goldplated jump ring onto the other end fastener loop, and hook on the loop of the trigger catch and the chains. Close the jump ring and trim away the excess chain.

LUSTROUS LONGLINE NECKLACE

the quantities here are purely a suggestion.

TO CREATE Cut six 15cm lengths of 20g wire. Use round-nosed pliers to grip one length 3cm from the end and bend at 90°. Rotate the pliers 90° away from you and pull the end back towards you over the top jaw. Rotate the pliers back and push the wire away from you around the pliers to form a loop. Grip the loop with roundnosed pliers and the end of the wire with chain-nosed pliers. Wrap the end around the wire ‘post’ 2-3 times to make a neat wrapped loop. Trim the excess and tuck in the

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end neatly with chainnosed pliers. Slip a Xilion onto the post, followed by a petal rondelle, a tube, a petal rondelle and a Xilion. Grip the wire close to the last bead with round-nosed pliers, bend it over and make a wrapped loop as in Step 1. Make five more wrapped eye loop connectors using Xilions, petal rondelles and the remaining tubes. Unravel the beading silk. Place the end without the needle alongside the end of the rat-tail and tie them together in an overhand knot 5cm from the end. Separate the strands and thread a jet fire polished bead, a petal

rondelle, a jade coin, a petal rondelle and a jet fire polished bead onto the beading silk. Bring the strands together and tie a knot close to the beads. Slip the wrapped loop of a jet connector onto the rat-tail and tie another knot approximately 5cm away, making sure the wrapped loop is contained within the knot. Thread the end of the rat-tail through the other wrapped loop, and pull through snugly along the bead. Tie both strands together in another knot – this time the wrapped loop does not need to be contained within it.

CBJ10 pp18-21 JillyBeads Northern Lights_CBJ 01/12/2010 10:42 Page 19

STATEMENT JEWELLERY DICHROIC PATCH BEADS LUSTROUS LAMPWORK BRACELET

tail of 1cm. Thread on a 2.5mm spacer. The tail will be tucked into the spacer and the beads threaded in Step 2. Thread both long ends through a Xilion, then separate the strands and thread a fire polished bead, a 2.5mm spacer and another fire polished bead onto each strand. Repeat Step 2 twice more. Bring the ends together and thread both through a petal rondelle, the AB patch coin and another petal rondelle. Repeat Step 2 in reverse three times so the other side of the bracelet mirrors the first. Slip on a 2.5mm spacer and a crimp bead. Pull the beads up so that the pattern interlocks and there is no slack Beadalon. Pass both ends through

3 4

This statement bracelet makes a feature of the beautiful AB patch chunky disc. Closeﬁtting to the wrist, it is rather like a watch with a fancy bracelet!

This two-stranded woven pattern is so easy to achieve.

MATERIALS

page 21. The chunky AB patch beads are too heavy for earrings, but by picking out other elements of the necklace, it is perfectly possible to make a harmonising pair!

• 14 x mixed green 4mm Czech fire polished round beads • 14 x jet AB 4mm Czech fire polished round beads • 10 x jet AB 7x5mm peardrop beads • 6 x jet AB2x 4mm Swarovski Elements Xilion beads • 6 x rainbow topaz emerald-lined size 11 Toho seed beads • 10 x golden petal rondelle spacers • 10 x golden 2.5mm spacers • 10 x gold-plated 5mm jump rings • 10 x gold-plated 1” headpins • gold-plated fish-hook ear wires • gold-plated 25mm hanging hoop ear wires

TOOLS • flat-nosed, round-nosed and chain-nosed pliers • crimping pliers • side cutters

Make these iridescent hoops to co-ordinate with the Lustrous Ladder necklace on

TO CREATE Cut two 30cm lengths of Beadalon.

Place the ends together, slip on a crimp bead, then pass the ends through the loop on one of the toggle ends and back through the crimp bead, leaving a

the loop on the remaining toggle end and back through the crimp and the last few beads. Ensure the toggle can move freely, then squash the crimp using chainnosed pliers.

MATERIALS • jade AB patch chunky flat coin bead • 24 x jet AB 6mm Czech fire polished round beads • 6 x jet AB2x 6mm Swarovski Elements Xilion beads • 2 x golden petal rondelle spacers • 14 x golden 2.5mm round spacers • 2 x gold-plated crimp beads • gold-plated circular toggle • gold 7-strand 0.3mm Beadalon

TOOLS • chain-nosed pliers • side cutters

TO CREATE Thread seven jet AB and seven mixed green beads alternately onto one of the hanging hoops. Close the hoop and, using crimping pliers, crimp the wire into the tube very tightly, checking it is secure. Open a jump ring and hang it on the hoop between the seventh and eighth beads. Close. Skipping a bead each time, hang two more jump rings each side of the middle ring. Thread a 2.5mm spacer, a peardrop, a petal rondelle, a Xilion and three Toho

LUSTROUS LOOPS EARRINGS seed beads onto a headpin. Bend the pin over at 90°, trim to 7mm and roll into a loop, hanging it on the middle jump ring before fully closing. Thread a 2.5mm spacer, a peardrop, a petal rondelle and a Xilion onto a headpin. Turn a simple loop as

in Step 3 and hang on the jump ring next to the middle one before fully closing. Repeat, hanging the dangle on the other side. Thread a 2.5mm spacer, a peardrop and a petal rondelle onto a headpin, turn a loop and hang on one of the outside jump

rings before fully closing. Repeat, hanging the dangle on the other side. Slightly open the loop on the fish-hook ear wire and slip it onto the loop on the hanging hoop. Close. Make a second earring to match.

6 7

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CBJ10 pp18-21 JillyBeads Northern Lights_CBJ 01/12/2010 10:42 Page 20

STATEMENT JEWELLERY DICHROIC PATCH BEADS MATERIALS • jade AB patch chunky tube bead • 2 x jet AB2x 6mm Swarovski Elements Xilion beads • jet AB2x 4mm Swarovski Elements Xilion bead • jet AB 7x5mm Czech fire polished peardrop bead • 3 x golden petal rondelle spacers • golden 2.5mm spacer • gold-plated 1” headpin • gold 20g Artistic Wire • gold-plated squiggly bookmark

LUSTROUS LAMPWORK BOOKMARK

US GORGEO A E GIFT ID

TO CREATE Cut a 15cm length of 20g wire and use round-nosed pliers to grip it 3cm from the end and bend at 90°. Rotate the pliers 90° away from you and pull the end back towards you over the top jaw. Rotate the pliers back and push the wire away from you around the pliers

ABOUT JILLYBEADS… JillyBeads is a fun, friendly, family-run business based in the north of England, which was created in 2001 out of a love for beautiful beads, together with a desire to run an online business. The team at JillyBeads is always on the lookout for new, tantalising and useful products, and enjoys challenges set by customers. The dynamic website is regularly updated with exciting goodies, along with creative design ideas to tempt and inspire. Gill Teasdale is one of the resident jewellery designers for JillyBeads and her work regularly features in the beading press and on the company’s website.

to form a loop. Grip the loop with roundnosed pliers and the end of the wire with chain-nosed pliers. Wrap the end around the wire ‘post’ 2-3 times to make a neat wrapped loop. Trim the excess and tuck in

the end neatly with chain-nosed pliers. Slip a 6mm Xilion onto the post, followed by a petal rondelle, the tube, another petal rondelle and another Xilion. Grip the wire close to the last bead with

round-nosed pliers, and bend it over and make a wrapped loop as in Step 1. Thread a 2.5mm spacer, a peardrop, a petal rondelle and the 4mm Xilion onto the headpin. Bend the pin over at 90°, trim to

7mm and roll into a loop, slipping onto the wrapped eye loop before fully closing. Slightly open the jump ring on the bookmark and slip on the other wrapped eye loop. Close the jump ring securely.

LUSTROUS LAMPWORK STICK PIN

Hold onto your hats, it’s winter! Make this glamorous and practical stick pin to secure your hat or brighten the lapel of your winter coat.

TO CREATE Thread a 4mm spacer, a Xilion, an 8mm fire polished bead, the AB patch tube, an 8mm fire

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polished bead, a Xilion, a 4mm spacer and a crimp bead onto the stick pin. Using chain-nosed pliers, squash the crimp bead very firmly. You will need to press hard for the crimp to grip. If necessary, apply a tiny spot of Hypo Cement glue to the crimp and leave to set.

2 3

MATERIALS • jade AB patch chunky tube bead • 2 x jet AB 8mm Czech fire polished beads • 2 x jet AB2x 6mm Swarovski Elements Xilion beads • gold-plated crimp bead

• golden 4mm round spacer • stick pin and protector • GS Hypo Cement glue (optional)

TOOLS • chain-nosed pliers

WHERE TO BUY All the materials used here are available from www.jillybeads.com; 01524 412728

CBJ10 pp18-21 JillyBeads Northern Lights_CBJ 01/12/2010 10:42 Page 21

STATEMENT JEWELLERY DICHROIC PATCH BEADS LUSTROUS LADDER NECKLACE

loop of a jade AB patch connector, a Xilion, 10 Tohos, a Xilion, the wrapped loop of a jet AB patch connector, a Xilion, 10 Tohos, a Xilion, the wrapped loop of a second jade AB patch connector, a Xilion and a crimp bead. Pass the end of the Beadalon back through the crimp and then the last few beads to make a small loop. Squash the crimp and trim the Beadalon. Complete the other side of the ladder in the same way. Thread a 2.5mm spacer, peardrop, petal rondelle, Xilion and eight Tohos onto a headpin. Bend the pin over by 90°, trim to 7mm and roll into a loop, slipping onto the Beadalon loop before fully closing. Make another dangle using a 2.5mm spacer, and three mixed green beads. Make another using a 2.5mm spacer, a Xilion, a 2.5mm spacer and three Tohos. Hang these onto the Beadalon loop as well. Repeat Step 11 for the other side of the necklace.

10 11

This shimmering necklace makes stunning use of these glamorous AB patch chunky tubes in the form of an unusual ladder technique. Simple stringing, crimping and a little wrapping produce a spectacular piece that is a lot easier to create than it looks!

TO CREATE Prepare the strands – cut eight 45cm and two 28cm lengths of 0.3mm Beadalon, three 12cm lengths of Artistic Wire, two 32cm lengths of each of the extension and curb chains, and two 32cm lengths of each of the rat-tail colours. Take a 45cm length of Beadalon and slip on a crimp bead, then pass the end through an antique gold jump ring and back through the crimp, allowing a tail of 1cm. Squash the crimp bead using chain-nosed pliers. Thread 76 mixed green fire polished beads (the strand needs to measure 32cm). Slip

on a crimp bead, and pass the end through a split ring, then back through the crimp. Ensure the loop moves freely around the ring, then squash the crimp. Make three more strands as in Steps 1 and 2, one using 76 jet AB round beads, one using 209 Toho seed beads and one using a random mixture of 191 Tohos and nine Xilions. Lay one end of one of the black rat-tail lengths in an end fastener and squash over the sides using flat-nosed pliers. Repeat for the strand of green rat-tail. Slightly open the jump ring and slip on the last link of one length of each type of chain and the two end fasteners with rat-tail. Close the jump ring securely. Wind the other end of the chains and the loop of the end fasteners at the other end of the rat-tails carefully onto the split ring (making sure the Beadalon strands don’t

slip off). Open a goldplated jump ring and slip it onto the split ring and the loop of the trigger catch. Close. Repeat Steps 1-6 for the other side of the necklace, just omitting the trigger catch when finishing the end. Make three wrapped eye loop connectors using the AB patch tubes: Use round-nosed pliers to grip a 12cm length of 20g wire 3cm from the end and bend at 90°. Rotate the pliers 90° away from you and pull the end back towards you over the top jaw. Rotate the pliers back and push the wire away from you around the pliers to form a loop. Grip the loop with roundnosed pliers and the end of the wire with chain-nosed pliers. Wrap the end around the wire ‘post’ 2-3 times to make a neat wrapped loop. Trim the excess and tuck in the end neatly with chainnosed pliers. Slip a tube onto the post. Grip the

7 8

wire close to the bead with round-nosed pliers, bend it over and make a loop as before. Slip a crimp bead onto a 28cm length of Beadalon, then pass the strand through the antique gold jump ring and back through the crimp bead, leaving a tail of 1cm. Squash the crimp. Thread on a Xilion, the wrapped

MATERIALS • 2 x jade AB patch chunky tube beads • jet AB patch chunky tube bead • approx 862 rainbow topaz emerald-lined size 11 Toho seed beads • 2 x jet AB 7x5mm Czech fire polished peardrop beads • 152 x jet AB 4mm Czech fire polished round beads • 158 x mixed green 4mm Czech fire polished round beads • 34 x jet AB2x 4mm Swarovski Elements Xilion beads • 2 x golden petal rondelle spacers • 8 x golden 2.5mm round spacers • 7-strand 0.3mm Beadalon • 6 x gold-plated 1½” headpins

• 16 x gold-plated crimp beads • 20g Artistic Wire • 2 x antique gold 7mm jump rings • 2 x gold-plated 5mm jump rings • 2 x gold-plated 5mm split rings • gold-plated 13mm trigger catch • 8 x gold-plated 5mm end fasteners with loop • gold-plated extension chain • antique gold extension chain • antique gold medium curb chain • green rat-tail • black rat-tail

TOOLS • round-nosed, flat-nosed and chain-nosed pliers • side cutters • 4 x mini bead stoppers (optional but highly recommended)

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CBJ10 pp22 Beadery_CBJ 01/12/2010 14:57 Page 22

THE BEADERY

LORI PATE-GREENE DESIGNER

ABOUT LORI… Lori was a freelance greeting card designer and illustrator for 17 years. She has loved crafting since childhood and enjoys it as a relaxing hobby. For the past nine years Lori has been working as a fulltime designer for The Beadery Craft Products, and she loves to design projects that bring a smile and pleasure to others.

CRYSTAL clear This subtle but striking asymmetric crystal necklace would look equally perfect with an evening dress or office wear

MATERIALS • 25 x clear 12mm faceted crystal beads • 24 x clear 10mm faceted crystal beads • 27 x clear 8mm faceted crystal beads • Silvertone 3.2mm curb chain • Silvertone spring ring clasp set • 50” Tigertail • 6 x crimp beads • 10 x Silvertone 5.5mm jump rings • 8 x Silvertone 9mm jump rings • 6 x decorative toggle rings

TOOLS • side cutters • round-nosed pliers • crimping tool

TO CREATE

Cut three 3” pieces of chain and three 6” pieces of chain. Take the shorter pieces and attach all three to one 9mm jump ring, also adding the tab

closure. Close the jump ring to secure. Attach a 5.5mm jump ring to the end link of each of these pieces of chain. Set aside. Take the longer pieces of chain and attach all three to a 9mm jump ring, along with the spring ring clasp. Close the jump ring to secure. Attach a 5.5mm jump ring to the end link of each of these pieces of chain, also capturing the small loop of a toggle ring in each one. Thread an 8mm, 10mm and 12mm

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bead individually onto three eyepins. Create a plain loop in each pin above the bead. Use a 9mm jump ring to attach the 8mm bead to the top toggle ring from Step 2. Repeat with the 10mm bead in the middle and the 12mm bead at the bottom. Attach another 9mm jump ring, along with a toggle ring, to each of the three eyepin loops to extend the ‘chain’. Cut three lengths of Tigertail – one measuring 14”, one 15” and one 17”. Start

4 5

to attach the shortest length to the top toggle ring by threading a crimp bead onto the Tigertail and threading the end of the wire through the small loop of the toggle ring, then back through the crimp bead. Compress the crimp with a crimping tool to secure the Tigertail. Attach the 15” length to the middle toggle ring and the 17” length to the bottom toggle ring in

the same way. String 26 8mm beads onto the top length of Tigertail, then add a crimp bead and thread the wire through the corresponding 5.5mm jump ring from Step 1. Go back through the crimp bead, remove any slack, then compress the crimp to secure. Repeat with 23 10mm beads on the middle strand and 24 12mm beads on the bottom strand.

WHERE TO BUY The crystal beads used here are available from www.thebeadery.com

CBJ10 pp23 Qrtrs, Half_CBJ 26/11/2010 11:19 Page 23

Here at Bluebell Design Studio, we offer the widest variety of Precious Metal Clay courses in Scotland delivered in a relaxed and friendly environment by Scotland’s most experienced and qualified PMC instructor. Come and have a look at our website to see the products and services we offer! They include; ● The cheapest retail price for PMC anywhere in the UK ● A wide variety of Chainmaille kits and jumprings ● PMC classes for all levels, from beginner right through to advanced We promise that you’ll have a fantastic day creating beautiful jewellery from fine silver and perhaps even make some new friends in the process. But don’t just take our word for it; visit our website to read what our previous “Bluebells” have had to say.

www.bluebelldesignstudio.co.uk Email: info@bluebelldesignstudio.co.uk

Towcester RaceCourse Friday 8th April & Saturday the 9th Ticket price £20 a day, £30 for two days children under 12 free, 12 - 16 half price Open 10 - 5 Ticket price includes Artist demonstrations, meet and great the Artists, torch taster sessions, Lampwork village sales area, large sales areas of Lampwork glass, tools, kilns and Kits and other Suppliers, competitions, free parking, entry to the Charity Auction plus buy a two day Ticket and get free entry into Sundays bead fair.

For more information or to buy tickets visit :www.tuffnellglass.com tuffnellglass@yahoo.co.uk

01262 420171 PLUS

Towcester Bead Fair Sunday April 10th 2011

Ticket price £4 each children under 12 free Held on two floors the bead fair Offers a wide Collection of bead suppliers, tools, kits, Lampwork beads, seed beads, crystals and books. Open 10 - 4 pm Free Parking

www.beadshows.co.uk for more information

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CBJ10 pp24-29 Kiln Beads (Judith)_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:15 Page 24

KILN BEADS SAWING GLASS

cut

JUDITH HANNINGTON DESIGNER

With a ring saw you can create almost any shape for your glass creations, from swirls and stars to butterflies and flowers. Be inspired by Judith Hanningtonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tips and ideas, and give your imagination free rein

GLASS

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CBJ10 pp24-29 Kiln Beads (Judith)_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:15 Page 25

KILN BEADS SAWING GLASS o far in our series of microwave kiln fused jewellery features, we have explored creating a variety of geometric pendants cut by hand and gently curved pieces shaped using a glass grinder. This month we look at working with freeform pieces of shaped glass cut using a glass saw. The joy of glass crafting is the transformation of a rigid but undeniably delicate sheet of material into a functional and decorative creation, and a glass saw can take you a long way further along that creative journey. Although this is a luxury item in terms of price, a glass saw gives you complete freedom in terms of the shapes you can create from

glass (and, of course, one of the advantages of using a microwave kiln is the small outlay in comparison to a conventional kiln!). Combined with the use of a microwave kiln you can cut, fuse and be wearing your own original handmade jewellery in next to no time. There are a couple of ring saws on the market and the projects featured here have all been created using a Gemini Taurus III ring saw. The cutting blade of the saw is a complete circle – a ring – embedded with diamonds so that it cuts through glass with ease. Because the diamonds cover the complete surface of the blade you can cut in any direction, allowing you to manoeuvre the glass on the ﬂat cutting

surface from side to side, forwards, backwards and on the diagonal, and thus enabling you to turn tight corners and cut fairly intricate details. The saw housing sits in a water bath below the cutting surface so that the blade is constantly kept cool as it passes through the water.

which point the lid can be safely removed without fear of your project cracking – the outer surface of the kiln should feel cool at this point; if not, extend the time before opening the kiln. As the kiln cools relatively slowly it is important

WHERE TO BUY Glass ring saws are available online from www.tempsfordstainedglass.co.uk, www.creativeglassshop.co.uk and www.retro-glass.co.uk

ABOUT THE KILN... For these projects I used the Hot Pot microwave kiln, which is manufactured from a user-friendly bio-soluble material. It is sold in two sizes, the smaller one being available in a starter kit with a variety of glass, a glass cutter, protective gloves, kiln paper and fusing rope. The Hot Pot kiln takes about an hour to cool once it is removed from the oven, at

The Hot Pot microwave kiln starter kit, which contains all the equipment you require (except for glass breaking pliers and a microwave oven) is available from www.madcowbeads.com The Bullseye glass used here can be purchased from www.warm-glass.co.uk The silver findings are available from www.dichrofindings.co.uk and the pink and teal beads from www.thebeadstore.co.uk

CUTTING WITH A GLASS SAW – ESSENTIAL TECHNIQUE

of its natural position. Always keep the glass flat on the cutting surface. When you reach your pen line work left or right – there is no need to rotate your glass unless you absolutely need to for visibility. Continue to cut out your shape moving the glass in all directions around your blade to negotiate the curves. As you reach the end of your cut, slow the speed of your movement down even

more and stop cutting when the shape is still firmly connected to the surrounding glass, especially if it is very small. Inspect your cut and use the edge of the saw blade to neaten any minor bumps or wiggles in the cut edge, rotating the glass as necessary for visibility

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TOP TIP

Draw your desired shape onto the surface of the glass using a permanent waterproof pen – either by hand or using a template. Here a chipboard flower sticker was used. Leave the ink to dry fully. Start cutting at a point where the design is nearest the edge of the glass, cutting in a perpendicular direction towards it. Use very gentle pressure to push the glass – the blade should barely move out

to remember that the glass will continue to ‘cook’ even after the microwave is off and the kiln is out of the oven. With pieces requiring dimension you should stop ﬁring at the point just before the desired fusing stage is reached.

and accuracy. Work gently so that you don’t detach small shapes from the surrounding glass. Once you are happy with the outline of your glass shape, very gently use the saw blade to cut through the final connection point. If your shape is very small be sure to

keep pressure on it on the cutting surface so that the blade doesn’t ping it away when the cut is complete. Remove the final bump of glass by gently bringing it up to the rotating blade to grind it away.

If you want to remove the glass from the saw at any point to inspect it more closely, don’t stop the saw but simply work the blade back through your cut channel to exit at the starting point

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CBJ10 pp24-29 Kiln Beads (Judith)_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:15 Page 26

KILN BEADS SAWING GLASS TRIPLE HEART PENDANT

TO CREATE Use the template, left, as a guide to cutting the pendant base from teal and from clear glass. Use the instructions from the heart earrings, below, as a guide to cut three different-sized hearts from pink glass to fit the pendant base. Stack the clear glass on the teal glass on a piece of kiln paper on your kiln base. Top with the

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MATERIALS • petal pink opalescent Bullseye 90coe 2mm glass • teal green opalescent Bullseye 90coe 2mm glass • clear Bullseye 90coe 3mm glass • kiln paper • silver choker with removable ball end • silver large pendant bail • pink glass drop beads

TO CREATE Cut two 17mmsquare pieces of teal green glass and two identical-sized pieces of 3mm clear glass. Either freeform, or using the template

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MATERIALS • petal pink opalescent Bullseye 90coe 2mm glass • teal green opalescent Bullseye 90coe 2mm glass • clear Bullseye 90coe 3mm glass • kiln paper • silver earring bails • silver fish-hook ear wires • 2 x silver eyepins • 2 x silver/teal spiral oval glass beads • pink and teal seed beads • epoxy glue

TOOLS • Hot Pot microwave kiln starter kit • microwave oven • glass ring saw • glass breaking pliers • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers

here as a guide, cut two hearts from pink glass. Start at the top of the heart, cutting the central groove, then cut one side of the heart shape, before returning to the top of the heart and cutting the other – this will help to keep the shape symmetrical. Fusing one earring at a time, stack the clear glass on the teal glass on a piece of kiln paper on your kiln base. Top with the pink heart and ‘cook’ in your microwave until fully fused. Remove the kiln from your microwave and allow to cool for a minimum of one hour before removing the kiln lid. Leave the glass until completely cold, then wash the kiln paper residue from the reverse.

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Use epoxy glue to secure a bail to each fused bead and set aside to dry overnight. Thread an eyepin with three seed beads, a spiral glass bead and three more seed beads before creating a wrapped loop in the end. Attach the wrapped loop to your ear wire, then hang your fused glass bead from the bottom eye.

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HEART EARRINGS

• teal speckled glass beads • 3mm and 8mm silver round beads • epoxy glue

TOOLS • Hot Pot microwave kiln starter kit • microwave oven • glass ring saw • glass breaking pliers

CBJ10 pp24-29 Kiln Beads (Judith)_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:15 Page 27

KILN BEADS SAWING GLASS MATERIALS

pink hearts and ‘cook’ in your microwave until fully fused. Remove the kiln from your microwave and allow to cool for a minimum of one hour before removing the kiln lid. Leave the glass until completely cold, then wash the kiln paper residue from the reverse. Use epoxy glue to secure the bail to the fused pendant, then set aside to dry overnight. Thread the choker with your choice of beads and your fused pendant, using the main picture as a guide and making sure the design is symmetrical either side of the pendant.

• petal pink opalescent Bullseye 90coe 2mm glass • teal green opalescent Bullseye 90coe 2mm glass • clear Bullseye 90coe 3mm glass • kiln paper • silver snake chain • silver tube top pendant mount • teal seed beads • silver headpin • silver swirl bead • silver jump ring • ring-sized memory wire • epoxy glue

TOOLS

• Hot Pot microwave kiln starter kit • microwave oven • glass ring saw • glass breaking pliers • memory wire cutters • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers

in the end. Manipulate the beaded ring so that the loops align neatly one over the other. Thread the silver swirl bead onto the headpin and create a wrapped loop with the end. Slide your pendant bail onto the beaded ring, then thread the jump ring through one loop on the memory wire, through the top loop of the eyepin and through the second memory wire loop so that the memory wire loops sandwich the eyepin loop. Close the jump ring and thread the snake chain through it.

SWIRL PENDANT TO CREATE Use the template as a guide to cutting the swirl shape from pink glass – follow the solid line of the template to cut the spiral. You can widen the channel by gently grinding the internal edges of the spiral in the saw blade. Cut a rectangular piece of teal glass and an identical piece of clear glass the same size as the overall dimensions of your swirl. Stack the clear glass on the teal glass on a piece of kiln paper on

2 3

your kiln base. Top with the swirl and ‘cook’ in your microwave until fully fused. Remove the kiln from your microwave and allow to cool for a minimum of one hour before removing the kiln lid. Leave the glass until completely cold, then wash the kiln paper residue from the reverse. Use epoxy glue to secure the pendant bail to the glass; set aside to dry overnight. Turn an outwardfacing loop in the end of the memory wire using round-nosed pliers. Thread the wire with teal seed beads to

cover one complete rotation then snip the wire, leaving about 10mm, and turn a loop

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CBJ10 pp24-29 Kiln Beads (Judith)_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:15 Page 28

KILN BEADS SAWING GLASS FLOWER BROOCH TO CREATE Cut a 30mmdiameter circle from dichroic glass and an identical circle from pink glass. Stack the dichroic glass, coated side down, on the pink glass on a piece of kiln paper on your kiln base and ‘cook’ in your microwave until fully fused. Remove the kiln from your microwave and allow to cool for a minimum of one hour before removing the kiln lid. Leave the glass until completely cold, then wash the kiln paper residue from the reverse. Gently neaten any rough edges on the pendant against

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STAR PENDANT

TOOLS • Hot Pot microwave kiln starter kit • microwave oven • glass ring saw • glass breaking pliers • memory wire cutters • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers

TO CREATE Cut a circle of pink glass and a circle of clear glass just larger than the central pad on the pendant mount. The reverse side of the pendant mount is used for this project as it offers a flat pad suitable for a largersized glass bead. Use the template here as a guide to cutting the star shape

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from teal glass, always cutting inwards into the angles of the star rather than cutting around the outline in one manoeuvre – this will give the star a better final shape. Stack the clear glass on the pink glass on a piece of kiln paper on your kiln base. Top with the teal star and ‘cook’ in your microwave until fully fused. Remove the kiln from your microwave and allow to cool for a minimum of one hour before removing the kiln lid. Leave the glass until completely cold, then wash the kiln paper residue from the reverse. Use epoxy glue to secure the fused pendant to the pad on the pendant mount, then set aside to dry overnight. Turn an outwardfacing loop in the end of the memory wire using round-nosed pliers. Thread the wire with pink seed beads to cover one complete rotation then snip the wire, leaving about 10mm, and turn a loop in the end. Manipulate

the beaded ring so that the loops align neatly one over the other. Hang the star charm from the eyepin loop and thread the pin with three teal seed beads. Create a simple loop in the end snug to the final seed bead. Slide your pendant bail onto the beaded ring, then thread the jump ring through one loop on the memory

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wire, through the top loop of the eyepin and through the second memory wire loop so that the memory wire loops sandwich the eyepin loop. Close the jump ring and thread a length of chain through it. Cut the chain to the desired length and attach the necklace tag to one end and the bolt ring to the other.

BUTTERFLY PENDANT

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TO CREATE

TOP TIP

MATERIALS • petal pink opalescent Bullseye 90coe 2mm glass • teal green opalescent Bullseye 90coe 2mm glass • clear Bullseye 90coe 3mm glass • kiln paper • silver oval link chain, bolt ring and necklace clasp • silver star pendant mount • pink and teal seed beads • silver eyepin • tiny silver star charm • silver jump ring • ring-sized memory wire • epoxy glue

Keep the cutting surface of your saw clear of small glass fragments by having a scrap pot alongside to drop them into, and always remember to keep the faceguard down to protect your eyes

Use the template as a guide to cutting a piece of pink glass and an identical piece of dichroic glass. Stack the dichroic glass, coated side

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CBJ10 pp24-29 Kiln Beads (Judith)_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:15 Page 29

KILN BEADS SAWING GLASS the saw blade or using a glass grinder – these may occur when fusing a 4mm thickness of glass due to drag around the edges. Cut a flower shape from teal glass, either freeform or using a punched shape, sticker or computer font flower as a template. The flower should be barely smaller than your glass circles. Position the fused pendant base on a fresh piece of kiln paper on your kiln base and place the flower on top. ‘Cook’ in the microwave until the flower is fused to the pendant with just a small amount of relief remaining. Repeat the full cooling process, clean the pendant

and then use epoxy glue to secure it to the brooch pad. Set aside to dry overnight, then mix up a little more epoxy glue and attach the silver flower to the front with a seed bead in the centre.

MATERIALS • petal pink opalescent Bullseye 90coe 2mm glass • teal green opalescent Bullseye 90coe 2mm glass • dichroic pink/teal on clear Bullseye 90coe 2mm glass • kiln paper • silver flower charm • silver oval brooch mount • pink seed bead • epoxy glue

TOOLS • Hot Pot microwave kiln starter kit • microwave oven • glass ring saw • glass breaking pliers

around the edges. Cut a butterfly shape from teal glass as follows: Cut down from the top edge of the glass to the top of the body, then cut across and down one side of the body. Repeat for the other side of the body, taking care not to chip off the body itself. Now cut from the bottom edge of the glass upward and form the lower half of the body in the same fashion. Finally cut the wings, working one side and then the other. As the butterfly is fused in the kiln its shape will soften slightly and this will improve its overall form. Position the fused pendant base on a fresh piece of kiln paper on your kiln base and placed the

down, on the pink glass on a piece of kiln paper on your kiln base and ‘cook’ in your microwave until fully fused. Remove the kiln from your

microwave and allow to cool for a minimum of one hour before removing the kiln lid. Leave the glass until completely cold, then wash the kiln paper residue from the reverse.

Gently neaten any rough edges on the pendant against the saw blade or using a glass grinder – these may occur when fusing a 4mm thickness of glass due to drag

butterfly on top. ‘Cook’ in the microwave until the butterfly is tackfused to the pendant and the sawn edges have softened. Repeat the full cooling process, clean the pendant and then use epoxy glue to secure the pendant bail to it. Set aside to dry overnight, then thread the chain through the bail ready to wear.

MATERIALS • petal pink opalescent Bullseye 90coe 2mm glass • teal green opalescent Bullseye 90coe 2mm glass • dichroic pink/teal on clear Bullseye 90coe 2mm glass • kiln paper • silver snake chain • silver tube top pendant mount • epoxy glue

TOOLS • Hot Pot microwave kiln starter kit • microwave oven • glass ring saw • glass breaking pliers

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CBJ10 pp30-31 Bead Doctor_Beading 01/12/2010 15:01 Page 30

BEAD DOCTOR

bead DOCTOR Got a beading query or jewellery dilemma? Ask our resident expert for the answers STARRY EYED I loved Judith Hannington’s Starry Night necklace in Issue 9. Unfortunately I don’t have access to the internet at home, so was hoping you could tell me which of the two stockists listed sells the silver dangles Judith used, and give me a telephone number for them? Jojo, Plymouth

THE BEAD DOCTOR SAYS… It’s such an elegant piece, isn’t it? You can buy the Karen Hill silver pendant set, which includes the silver dangles, from Smitten Beads by calling 01225 789515 (www.smitten beads.co.uk for those with online access).

CLASP CLARITY Thank you for including a decorative clasp shopping guide in the last issue. It was lovely to see a

range of the different styles available, as I’ve only ever come across basic circle toggle clasps at my local shop. Can you direct me to a stockist of masculine toggle clasps? Julie, by email

THE BEAD DOCTOR SAYS… Absolutely, Julie! The clasps shown in Issue 9 were just a tiny portion of the fabulous array available, and there are so many more styles, sizes and colours out there, from intricate detailing to novelty themes. For masculine makes, check out the toggle clasps available from B for Beads (www.b-forbeads.co.uk; 01352 755532). The range includes great geometric and nautical designs.

KILN WANTED! I adore the lampwork beads I’ve seen your designers make over the past issues and would love to be able

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to make them myself. I’ve started investing in some of the equipment, as well as booking myself a workshop place, but there’s no way at this stage that I can afford a kiln too. I really would like to try this technique and wondered if there was any way you knew of that I could anneal the beads without a kiln? Rachel Bracken, London

THE BEAD DOCTOR SAYS… Don’t despair, Rachel. There are lampworking suppliers who will ﬁre your beads for you by ‘batch annealing’ them – a simple enquiry when purchasing your products will hopefully give you the answer you’re after. Do obviously check about the charge for this service.

CBJ10 pp30-31 Bead Doctor_Beading 01/12/2010 15:01 Page 31

BEAD DOCTOR

Remember, by allowing your beads to cool as slowly as possible in vermiculite, a ﬁbre blanket or annealing bubble, you can store them until you have enough to send for batch annealing in a kiln. Designer Rachel Bishop covered the pros and cons of different cooling methods in her Dot to Dot feature in Issue 6. If you missed it, back issues are available from www.practical publishing.co.uk/cbj.

SEWING THE SEEDS I’ve always enjoyed using seed beads on my designs, and have decided to try my hand as some proper beading projects. Can you tell me where to start? I suppose I’d need patterns as well as supplies! Judith Bailey, by email

THE BEAD DOCTOR SAYS… That sounds like a good way to branch out, Judith. There are so many websites and stockists of beading products that it can be hard to know where to start! A simple Google search for beading supplies will throw up a wealth of suppliers for products and patterns, including The Bead

Shop (www.thebeadshop.co.uk; 0161 If you 232 7356) and Empire question forhave a Beads (www.empire Doctor, emathe Bead il it to beads.co.uk; 01235 bea practicalpdudoctor@ 527335). You can or write to blishing.co.uk also pay a visit to Bead Docto Creative Bea r, ThreadABead Unit 1 Adlids & Jewellery, n (www.threada Adlington B gton Court, Macclesfielusiness Park, bead.com) and Bead d, Ch SK10 4NLeshire Patterns (www.beadpatterns.com) for a great range of beads and beading patterns. teen jewellery project TEEN SPIRIT ideas is About.com. I have my daughter There’s a huge range and her two teenage of different designs, daughters staying with mediums and more me over the holidays, you can go for, so take and apparently they’ve a look for choices shown some interest in from leather wrist my jewellery making bands, friendship so I’ve decided this is bracelets, anklets and the perfect chance to much more. let them have a go at it Depending on their themselves. The ages, your grandproblem is, I have no daughters might also clue what teens like to be wowed by the wear these days, so fabulous student-style wondered if you could projects Emily Kersh recommend a book or of The Bead Shop website I could get Manchester rustled up my hands on for for us in her Class of them? I can then buy in all the bits and pieces so we’re good to go when they arrive. Marie Edge, Lincolnshire

STRETCHED FOR SUCCESS I had made a decision to get a production line going for my Christmas present makes and give everyone charm bracelets. But I soon realised that this meant a lot of different wrist sizes and an awful lot of work. I came up with an alternative in the form of beaded belts, but then remembered that I’d heard about elasticated charm bracelets at some point. Are these the solution if I want to try again next year? 2010 feature in Issue 6 (you can go to www.practical

If so, can you suggest where I can get them from as I haven’t a clue! Charlie Mathers, by email

THE BEAD DOCTOR SAYS… Elasticated charm bracelets will certainly save you a lot of time and labour! The beauty with these, of course, is that one size fits all, so no need to try to subtly get everyone’s wrist size – and no worrying that the bracelets won’t fit when finished. Head on over to www.the beadstore.co.uk (or call 01726 844999) to buy a batch. publishing.co.uk/cbj to order back issues if you don’t have it).

THE BEAD DOCTOR SAYS… A website that is deﬁnitely worth visiting for some great

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CBJ10 pp32-33 Sandstones_Beading 01/12/2010 10:33 Page 32

SANDSTONES

secret GROTTO

Sandy Kidulis uses a shimmering array of different freshwater pearls to create a stalactites and stalagmites set in gorgeous glacial colours

SANDY KIDULIS DESIGNER

ABOUT SANDY… Sandy at Sandstones International has many years’ experience in jewellery design, and buying beads and equipment from all over the world. She is particularly drawn to pearls, turquoise, coral and jade, and is always on the lookout for high-quality and interesting-shaped beads that inspire her to create beautiful jewellery.

MATERIALS • silver-plated 20-gauge Beadalon German Style round wire • silver-plated 26-gauge Beadalon German Style round wire • mixed blue and white 3-6mm freshwater potato pearls • 6 x Silvertone headpins

TOOLS • flat-nosed pliers • side cutters • ring mandrel (optional)

RING TO CREATE Cut a 28” length of 20-gauge Beadalon. Find the halfway point and bend the wire into a U-shape. Place the ‘U’ on a ring mandrel at a size three sizes above your normal requirement (if you don’t have a ring mandrel, use any

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suitably sized cylindrical object such as a chunky marker pen). Use your non-dominant hand to hold the ‘U’ in place on the mandrel and, with your dominant hand, start wrapping the wire around the ring mandrel. Wrap first one tail and then the other (in opposite directions) until you’ve completed four loops. You now have your basic ring shape, with two long tails of wire still attached. Hold the ring shape in your non-dominant hand and, with your dominant hand, start to wrap one of the tails of wire, in tight coils round and round the ring shape until you

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have covered half the ring. Repeat in the other direction with the other tail of wire until the entire ring is covered in tight coils. Trim any excess wire and ensure the ends are pressed flat with flatnosed pliers so there are no sharp edges. Thread a pearl onto a headpin and use needle-nosed pliers to bend the pin over by 90°, close to the top of the bead. Trim the pin to about 6mm, then grip the top with round-nosed pliers and roll a loop. Repeat so you have six pearl charms in total. Cut a 15” length of 26-gauge wire. Decide where you would like the top of

the ring to be and hold the end of the 26-gauge wire against the ring with your non-dominant hand. Use your dominant hand to wrap it a few times round the ring to secure. Now thread on a pearl, hold it against the ring where you would like it to sit, and use your dominant hand to wrap the long length of wire round the ring a few times to hold it in place. Keep threading on pearls, varying the colour and size, and repeating this wrapping process until

you have covered the top of the ring (about 1.5-2cm) with pearls. Now turn the ring around and work back over the existing pearls, wrapping more into place and this time also randomly working in the six pearls charms you created in Step 4. Repeat this process until you are happy with the number and appearance of the pearls on the ring, then wrap the tail of wire around a few more times to secure, trim and use pliers to tuck away any sharp edges.

WHERE TO BUY All the materials used here are available from www.sand-stones.co.uk; 0845 224 0843

CBJ10 pp32-33 Sandstones_Beading 01/12/2010 10:33 Page 33

SANDSTONES EARRINGS TO CREATE Thread a blue pearl onto a headpin and use needle-nosed pliers to bend the pin over by 90°, close to the top of the bead. Trim the pin to about 6mm, then grip the top with round-nosed pliers and roll a loop. Repeat to

MATERIALS • 6 x white side-drilled Biwa pearls • 4 x white 3-4mm freshwater potato pearls • 12 x mixed blue freshwater potato and nugget pearls • 12 x Silvertone headpins • Silvertone ear wires

TOOLS • needle-nosed and round-nosed pliers • side cutters

make five blue pearl charms in total. Take another headpin and thread on a blue pearl, a Biwa pearl, a blue pearl charm, a white potato pearl, a second blue pearl charm, another Biwa pearl, a third blue pearl charm, another white potato pearl, a fourth blue pearl charm and a final Biwa pearl. Bend the headpin over by 90°, close to the top of the last pearl. Trim the pin to about 7mm, then grip the top with round-nosed pliers and roll a loop. Attach the fifth blue pearl charm to this loop. Attach to an earring wire and make sure all the metal loops are closed securely. Repeat Steps 1-4 to complete the matching earring.

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NECKLACE

are hidden inside. Bend the eyepin over by 90°, close to the top of the bead cone. Use round-nosed pliers to form a wrapped loop and trim any excess wire with cutters. Now start threading your pearls onto the Tigertail. Make sure the first and last couple of pearls you thread are 3mm so they fit inside the bead cone. Don’t be afraid to be random – scatter the Biwa pearls throughout the design. You will find it easier to do this part of the project at a table. Once you have threaded enough pearls to reach the desired length, thread a crimp onto one strand and pass the Tigertail back down through it, again making the wire loop as small as possible. Adjust the tension and, when you are happy with it, squeeze the crimp firmly with needle-nosed pliers.

TO CREATE Cut three 20” lengths of Tigertail and two 2½” lengths of Beadalon German Style wire. Take one length of Beadalon and, using round-nosed pliers, form a small loop at one end so that it resembles a long

eyepin. Repeat so you have two of these. Take one length of Tigertail and thread on a crimp. Pass the wire end through the loop of one of the eyepins you made in Step 1 and back down through the crimp, making the loop

formed by the Tigertail as small as possible. Squeeze firmly with needle-nosed pliers and trim any excess. Repeat twice so that all three lengths of Tigertail are attached to the eyepin. Thread the eyepin through a bead cone so that all the crimps

Trim any excess Tigertail. Repeat for the other two strands of pearls. Loosely plait the three strands so they are interwoven, then attach the ends of the strands to the second eyepin you made in Step 1. Repeat Step 3 at this end. Attach a toggle clasp using jump rings.

MATERIALS • approx 3 strands mixed colour/size (3-6mm) freshwater pearls • 3 packs head-drilled Biwa pearls • 7-strand 0.38mm Tigertail beading wire • 2 x silver-plated 15mm-long bead cones • silver-plated 20-gauge Beadalon German Style round wire • 6 x Silvertone crimps • silver-plated toggle clasp • 2 x Silvertone 6mm jump rings

TOOLS • needle-nosed and round-nosed pliers • side cutters

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CBJ10 pp34-37 Melting Point Soldering_CBJ 01/12/2010 15:00 Page 34

METALWORK GUIDE TO SOLDERING

MELTING

AURORA LOMBARDO DESIGNER

point

It may sound intimidatingly industrial, but mastering soldering opens up a whole new world of beautiful metalwork creations. Aurora Lombardo has everything you need to know to get started...

ABOUT AURORA… Aurora is the owner of The Jazzy Jewelz Studio in Ickleton, Cambridgeshire, a friendly jewellerymaking studio offering a range of beading workshops, glass fusing classes, and jewellerymaking parties for children and adults. For those who feel creative but live too far away to visit,The Jazzy Jewelz Studio online shop sells jewellery-making kits and party packs for all skill levels. Aurora herself is an experienced designerjeweller, specialising in glass and silver jewellery. Her work is supplied to selected shops and galleries in the UK and Italy – you can see more at www. aurora lombardo.com. To find out more about about The Jazzy Jewelz Studio, visit www.thejazzyjewelz studio.co.uk or call 07905 888268.

abricating a piece of jewellery often requires joining two or more metal components together – something that is generally done using the heat of a gas torch and a compatible

solder. The heat applied to the parts to be joined causes the solder to melt and to ﬂow into the joint by capillary action (see our glossary on page 38), creating a strong bond between the two metal parts.

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CHOOSING A SOLDER There are various types and forms of solders available commercially and it is important to choose the appropriate one for the application. Silver, gold and

platinum solders are speciﬁcally designed to be used on precious metals. Silver solder can also be used on copper or brass. Solder is used in three forms: tiny metal squares (pallions), wire or paste. Which

one to use for a particular application is often just a matter of personal preference. For the projects in this article I’ve used silver solder paste, which is a mixture of solder, ﬂux and a binder. This is a

CBJ10 pp34-37 Melting Point Soldering_CBJ 01/12/2010 15:00 Page 35

METALWORK GUIDE TO SOLDERING

Although no two soldering jobs will ever be exactly the same, the following basic principles apply to all soldering work: There must be a tight fit between the parts to be soldered. The key to successful soldering is really preparation. It is important to make sure that the two pieces of metal to be joined fit together perfectly, with no visible gaps between them. This often requires careful filing. The metals to be joined need to be perfectly clean. In order for the solder

particularly suitable choice for beginners as it is very easy to use and does not require the application of a separate ﬂux, which the other solder forms do. Silver solder is sold in ﬁve different grades, designated as ‘enameling’, ‘hard’, ‘medium’, ‘easy’ and ‘extra easy’ on the basis of their melting point. Enameling solder has the highest melting point. It is a specialist solder and is only used on work that has to be enamelled because of its ability to withstand high temperatures. At the other end of the scale, extra-easy solder has a very low melting

to flow, the join should be completely free from dirt and oils. Use emery paper to carefully clean the metal around the seam. If you are soldering more than one piece together, clean each part separately and use tweezers to assemble them on the soldering block. The metal should be kept free from oxidation as the piece is heated. If you are using solder in sheet or wire form, use a fine paintbrush to paint flux onto the join before positioning the solder onto the seam.

point and is normally only used for repairs. Hard, medium and easy are thus the most commonly used grades of solder. To construct a piece of jewellery it is often necessary to carry out more than one soldering operation. To prevent a previously soldered joint coming undone when additional parts are soldered, each step is done using a different grade of solder, in decreasing order of hardness.

WHICH TORCH? Both the metal you are using and the nature of the soldering job you need to carry out will inﬂuence the type

This step can be omitted if you are using solder in paste form – this contains flux already and can be placed directly onto the join. Applying the heat. For the solder to flow correctly, it is critical that both sides of the joint reach soldering temperature at the same time. Ignite the torch and heat the work with a soft flame. Direct the heat over the entire piece, not just the join. Once the metal begins to change colour you can start to build up the heat around the seam, making sure

TOP TIPS

SILVER SOLDERING – ESSENTIAL TECHNIQUE

of torch you need. A compact, butanepowered mini jeweller’s torch is suitable for small-scale soldering jobs on both silver and gold. A small butane-propane plumber’s torch will also work well for small to medium-scale soldering jobs. If you are planning to do a lot of soldering or you require a more powerful torch you might want to consider a Sievert soldering torch, which runs on propane gas tanks. Different-sized nozzles are available for this type of torch, making it suitable for most types of soldering jobs.

Choose a torch with an easily adjustable flame as this will help you control the heat applied to your piece The solder will flow towards the heat so when heating the join, direct the flame from the side opposite that on which the solder is placed Use a brick or soldering block broken into shapes to help support the item being soldered

that both sides get equally hot. Never try to melt the solder with the flame – instead, heat the metal and this in turn will transfer heat to the solder, making it flow. Pickle between soldering steps. If the making of your piece requires more

5 4

than one soldering step, it is important to clean the work of flux residues and firescale before soldering again. This is best achieved by immersing the item in a warm pickle solution for a few minutes. After pickling, rinse with clean running water and dry.

SOLDERING SET-UP It is important to dedicate a small region of your working space just to soldering, preferably in a well ventilated area. Protect your working surface from the heat with a soldering mat or a large ceramic tile and keep a ﬁre extinguisher close by.

TRIAL AND ERROR There is no denying that soldering can

be a complex and challenging technique, even for the more experienced jeweller. If you are just setting out to try your hand at soldering, be prepared for the inevitable melted-beyond-repair accident – don’t be disheartened, and persevere. Arming yourself with patience and dedication is the best way to achieve that elusive perfectly soldered joint.

WHERE TO BUY Metalwork and jewellery-making tools are available from www.palmermetals.co.uk and www.cooksongold.com Silver, copper and brass are available from www.kernowcraft.co.uk www.creativebeadsandjewellery.com

CBJ10 pp34-37 Melting Point Soldering_CBJ 01/12/2010 15:00 Page 36

METALWORK GUIDE TO SOLDERING TWO METALS FLOWER PENDANT

MATERIALS • sterling silver 0.7mm sheet • sterling silver flower shape blank • sterling silver 5mm tube • copper 5mm disc • easy, medium and hard solder paste • safety pickle • wire cable necklet

TOOLS • • • • • • • • • • • •

jeweller's saw bench peg steel block ball pein hammer reverse action insulated tweezers brass tweezers soldering block soldering torch medium-grade file emery paper (coarse, medium and fine) tumbler (optional) ultra-polishing pad (optional)

TO CREATE Start by cutting a 2x2cm square from the silver sheet using a jeweller’s saw (see Fig 1, below left). Texture the piece by hammering with a ball pein hammer over a steel block. File off any burrs or rough edges using a file. Emery the pendant base, tube bail, flower shape and copper disc to remove any dirt and grease in preparation for soldering, then set aside. In the first soldering step, you will join the 5mm copper disc to the silver flower shape. Pick up the silver flower shape and place it on your soldering block. Add

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a small amount of hard silver solder paste to its centre. Position the copper disc on top and carefully push the disc down with a pair of tweezers to ensure that there is a good fit between the two pieces. Ignite the torch and gently heat up the two pieces (Fig 2). Direct the flame towards the copper disc rather than the more delicate silver petals. Keep heating the piece until you notice a silvery stream appearing from below the copper disc – this is an indication that the solder has started to flow (Fig 3). Pickle, rinse and dry. Next, solder the bail to the silver

5 4

square. Add a little medium solder paste to the silver tube and assemble the two pieces on the soldering block, making sure that the tube is centred along the top of the pendant. Direct the heat over the pendant first, as it is the larger piece of metal. Keep moving the flame over both pieces with slow circular movements. Remove the heat as soon as you notice the solder flowing into the joint. Let the piece cool down, then pickle, rinse and dry. Now solder the flower decoration to the middle of the pendant. Add a small amount of easy silver solder paste to the back of the flower (Fig 4).

Using a pair of tweezers, position the flower decoration in the middle of the pendant. Push down gently to ensure that the two parts are touching. Apply a gentle flame to the piece to heat it up. Keep the flame moving over the whole piece, directing it towards the periphery rather than towards the centre of the pendant to minimise the risk of damaging the flower decoration with the flame. Remove the heat as soon as the solder starts to flow. Pickle, rinse and dry. Inspect all the soldering joint and seams and, if necessary, file away any excess solder using a coarse grade of emery paper or a needle file (Fig 5). To give the pendant a nice shiny finish, use graded emery papers and an ultrapolishing pad or put in a tumbler. Thread onto the cable necklet.

CBJ10 pp34-37 Melting Point Soldering_CBJ 01/12/2010 15:00 Page 37

METALWORK GUIDE TO SOLDERING STARBURST BANGLE

TO CREATE Cut a 35mm disc from the sterling silver sheet using a disc cutter. Place the disc back in the disc cutter and punch out an off-centre hole using a 16mmwide punch. Texture the disc on a steel block using the chisel end of a cross pein hammer. Strike it sharply with short, radially oriented strokes to create a starburst texture. Anneal and pickle the disc to soften and clean the metal. The construction of this bangle requires a close fit between the back of the silver disc and the curvature of the D wire. This is best achieved with the

help of a wooden doming block. Start by placing the disc in the shallowest depression available in your block. Use a doming punch and a mallet to shape the disc into a shallow dome. Remove the disc from the doming block and set aside. Mark the middle of the bangle wire and place it – flat side up – in the same depression you used to shape your disc (see Fig 1, below). Repeat Step 3 to give the wire a similar curvature. You only

want to curve the central region of the wire at this stage. Remove the wire from the block and check to see if there is a good fit between it and the domed disc. Adjust, if necessary, by moving to the next, deeper hollow and repeating Steps 3 and 4. Next, assemble the two pieces on a soldering block and use the heat of a torch to join them together with hard solder paste (Fig 2). Pickle, rinse and dry the cuff.

Inspect the soldering joints and, if necessary, file away any excess solder using a coarse grade emery paper or a needle file. Use a halfround file to smooth the edges of the wire and to round its corners (Fig 3). Hammer the cuff into shape using a rawhide mallet and an oval bracelet mandrel (Fig 4). Finally, use graded emery papers and an ultra-polishing pad to give the cuff a shiny finish.

MATERIALS • sterling silver 0.7mm sheet • 14.5cm sterling silver 5x2.6mm D wire • hard solder paste • safety pickle

TOOLS • • • • • • • • • • • •

disc cutter steel block cross pein hammer reverse action insulated tweezers brass tweezers soldering block soldering torch medium-grade file rawhide mallet oval bracelet mandrel emery paper (coarse, medium and fine) ultra-polishing pad

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CBJ10 pp34-37 Melting Point Soldering_CBJ 01/12/2010 15:01 Page 38

METALWORK GUIDE TO SOLDERING WOODLAND BRASS EARRINGS

TO CREATE Using a felt-tip pen, mark a V-shaped sector on one of the 25mm brass discs and pierce it out using a jeweller’s saw, as shown in Fig 1, above right. File off any burrs. Place the brass piece over a steel

MATERIALS • 2 x brass 25mm discs • 2 x silver flower shaped blanks • sterling silver earring hooks • medium solder paste • safety pickle

TOOLS • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

jeweller’s saw steel block riveting hammer doming block reverse action insulated tweezers soldering block soldering torch brass tweezers medium-grade file emery paper (coarse, medium and fine) flat-nosed pliers felt-tip pen tumbler (optional) ultra-polishing pad (optional)

block and use the straight end of a riveting hammer to create a bark-like texture. When you are happy with the appearance, use emery paper to carefully clean the surface of the brass piece in preparation for soldering. Pick up one of the silver flower

shapes and emery its back surface. Holding the flower with a pair of tweezers, add a small amount of medium-grade solder paste to the centre, as well as to five of the petals (Fig 2). Assemble the two pieces together on a soldering block so that the centre of the flower

GLOSSARY OF USEFUL TERMS Annealing – Softening metals that have become hardened through work (being hammered, bent, folded and so on) so that continued work will cause them to become brittle and fracture. Nonferrous metals such as brass, bronze, copper and silver can be annealed by applying heat to them Capillary action – Also called capillarity, this is

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the phenomenon whereby liquid spontaneously rises in a narrow space or within porous and some non-porous materials, sometimes against the force of gravity Firescale – Sometimes known as ﬁrestain, this is the reddish-purple ‘bloom’ that appears on mixtures of silver and copper at high temperatures. It commonly occurs

and five petals touch the brass piece while the remaining three petals sit in the middle on the indentation. Gently heat the two pieces up, directing the flame onto the brass piece rather than onto the flower to minimise the risk of melting the silver (Fig 3). Keep heating until the solder starts to flow. Pickle, rinse and dry. Place the piece on a doming block and use a doming punch to give it a gentle curve (Fig 4). A step-by-step guide

to doming was published in Issue 8 of Creative Beads & Jewellery (back issues are available from www.practical publishing.co.uk/cbj). Polish the earring using emery papers. Work from coarse to fine paper until you are happy with the appearance. To finish to a high lustre, use an ultra-polishing pad or put the piece in a tumbler. Use pliers to attach an earring hook to the central petal. Repeat Steps 1-7 to make the other earring.

during the soldering process in jewellery making, and can usually be removed by pickling or polishing

solution to remove all ﬁrescale from the surface. This process takes about 20-30 minutes and the piece should then be dropped in bicarbonate of soda to neutralise the acid from the solution, before being rinsed and dried.

Flux – A chemical cleaning agent (commonly borax), applied before soldering metals to remove and prevent oxidation and help the solder to ﬂow. It is available in liquid and paste forms Pickling – Immersing cooled metal pieces in a warm pickling

Step-by-step guides to annealing and pickling were published in Issue 8 of Creative Beads & Jewellery. If you missed it, you can order back issues at www.practical publishing.co.uk/cbj.

CBJ10 pp39 Beadalon_CBJ 25/11/2010 12:12 Page 39

CBJ10 pp40-41 Birthstones January_CBJ 01/12/2010 10:34 Page 40

BIRTHSTONES JANUARY

GARNET We start our new series on birthstone jewellery with a closer look at beautiful garnet with its deep, warming red tones TO CREATE

Cut five 4cm lengths of wire. Bend each piece of wire at 90º about 10mm from the end, grasp the very end with roundnosed pliers and roll the wire away from you towards the bend.

JUDITH HANNINGTON DESIGNER

Reposition the pliers regularly by rotating your hand towards you so that you form the loop in lots of small movements rather than a single action. Thread on a silver bead, a round garnet bead and another silver bead,

then finish with another simple loop in the wire, snug to the final bead. Cut three 15cm lengths of 24-gauge wire and position a briolette about a third of the way along each one. Bend both ends of the wire to create a triangle shape above the bead. Snip the short end of the wire about 4mm above the triangle, then create a wrapped loop with the long end, wrapping the wire down around the short end and the main stem to secure them together. Cut a length of chain to fit snugly around the wearer’s neck. Cut it in half and attach one end of each half to the top loop of a heart connector, using one of the beaded links you made in Step 1. Attach the lobster clasp and necklace tag to the other ends of the chain. Join the two hearts together from the inner-top loops using a single beaded link, and hang the remaining two links from the bottom loop on each heart. Hang four links of chain from the bottom of these links, adding one of the wrapped briolettes you made in Step 2 to each before closing the loops. Create four further beaded links without the silver beads. Attach three together and use this

TRADITIONAL GARNET NECKLACE 40

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‘chain’ to connect the two hearts from the inner central loops. Use the final link to connect the two four-link lengths of chain and hang the final wrapped briolette from the bottom. Thread a round garnet bead onto a headpin and create a wrapped loop in the end, attaching it to the outer loop of one heart connector before wrapping the stem and snipping the end. Repeat this with a second headpin on the other heart. Create two more wrapped-loop beaded headpins, attaching these to three links of chain from the outer central loops on the hearts. Finally, make a beaded headpin using a garnet bead and a silver bead and hang this from the same link in the chain as the necklace tag.

MATERIALS • 6-7mm cushion-cut garnet briolette beads • 3mm garnet plain round beads • 2 x antique silver heart connectors • silver 22-gauge wire • silver 24-gauge wire • silver 2mm round beads • silver fine-gauge headpins • silver oval link chain • silver lobster clasp and necklace tag

TOOLS • round-nosed and chain-nosed pliers • side cutters

CBJ10 pp40-41 Birthstones January_CBJ 01/12/2010 10:35 Page 41

BIRTHSTONES JANUARY ALTERNATIVE BRACELET

MATERIALS

WHERE TO BUY The garnets used here are available from www.precioussparklebeads.co.uk The garnet-coloured glass beads are available from www.smittenbeads.co.uk, together with the majority of the findings make 12 in total. Thread a silver bead, followed by three beaded headpins and a final silver bead, onto an eyepin and create a simple loop in the end, allowing space so that the beaded headpins can rotate freely. Repeat four times and use these links to connect the pebble beads together.

• dark red large glass pebble beads • garnet red tiny rectangle glass beads • silver 24-gauge wire • silver headpins and eyepins • silver 2mm round beads • silver extension chain and lobster clasp

TOOLS

• round-nosed and chain-nosed pliers • side cutters

DID YOU KNOW

Cut five 15cm lengths of wire. Bend each piece of wire at 90º about 40mm from one end. Position your round-nosed pliers just above the bend and wrap the short wire end around the upper jaw, repositioning the pliers as necessary to make a complete rotation so that the wire returns to its original 90º position. Grasp the created loop with chain-nosed pliers and wrap the short wire end around the main stem for as many

rotations as desired. Snip the end short, thread on a silver bead, a pebble bead and another silver bead, and create a wrapped loop in the other end before squashing the two snipped ends snug to the stem with the tips of your pliers. Attach the lobster clasp to one component and the extension chain to another before completing the final loops. Thread a rectangle bead onto a headpin and create a simple loop in the wire, snug to the bead. Repeat to

The custom of ‘wearing’ birthstones first gained popularity in Poland in the 15th century. Originally it was suggested that each person wear the birthstone for the current calendar month to benefit from its powers, thereby requiring followers to own a set of 12 gemstones

TOP TIP

TO CREATE

Precious gemstones generally have a fairly small threading hole but the size does vary slightly from bead to bead so it is worth checking that your wire will fit through the beads you have selected before starting on a project. Choose fine-gauge headpins and eyepins or create your own from a gauge of wire suitable for the beads you have

GARNET BIRTHSTONE FOR… January

SAID TO BESTOW: Strength, ﬁdelity and health

ABOUT THE STONE: Garnets have been found in almost every country of the world. Currently the largest

reserves lie in East Africa, but Europe and South America are also large producers of very high-quality stones. Garnets come in several different shades, the traditional stone associated with January being deep red in colour.

WHAT’S THE ALTERNATIVE? Relative to many other precious gemstones, garnets are inexpensive but as gemstones are generally available by the strand and the more specialised cuts raise the price, there are lots of glass alternatives if you are on a limited budget.

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CBJ10 pp42 Shopping Garnet_CBJ 02/12/2010 10:41 Page 42

SHOPPING GUIDE 2

3 8

1 4

GARNETS 1

A GRADE CUSHION-CUT BRIOLETTES Stockist: Precious Sparkle Beads www.precioussparklebeads.co.uk Tel: 01738 563264 RRP: £12.99 for an 8” strand

6/8MM CZECH GARNET POTATO BEADS Stockist: The Bead Store www.thebeadstore.co.uk Tel: 01726 844999 RRP: 6p each

Take inspiration from Judith’s article this issue and create your own stunning garnet pieces

4MM SWAROVSKI BICONES

Stockist: Beads Direct www.beadsdirect.co.uk Tel: 01509 218028 RRP: £1.68 for 24 4

GARNET RECTANGLE BEADS Stockist: Precious Sparkle Beads www.precioussparkle beads.co.uk Tel: 01738 563264 RRP: £2.79 for a 15” strand

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11/0 TOHO SEED BEADS Stockist: Beads Direct www.beadsdirect.co.uk Tel: 01509 218028 RRP: £1.87 for 14g

10MM SWAROVSKI FACETED ROUND BEADS Stockist: Beads Direct www.beadsdirect.co.uk Tel: 01509 218028 RRP: £4.19 for 6

8MM FLAT ROUND BEADS Stockist: The Bead Store www.thebeadstore.co.uk Tel: 01726 844999 RRP: £4.99 for a 16” string

8MM ROUND BEADS Stockist: Beads Direct www.beadsdirect.co.uk Tel: 01509 218028 RRP: £4.29 for a 16” strand

14/9MM GARNET LEAVES Stockist: The Bead Store www.thebeadstore.co.uk Tel: 01726 844999 RRP: 12p each

CBJ10 pp43 Bead Shop Manc_CBJ 30/11/2010 14:04 Page 43

CBJ10 pp44-45 Bead Shop Manc_Beading 01/12/2010 14:59 Page 44

THE BEAD SHOP MANCHESTER

ALL THINGS bright & beautiful Emily Kersh escapes the cold weather with fun, funky seed bead creations that are bursting with life! FUNKY FLOWER MEMORY WIRE BRACELET

EMILY KERSH DESIGNER

ABOUT EMILY… Emily has been involved with beads for more than 17 years. The Bead Shop Manchester is a family business, started in 1993, but in the past Emily has branched off with her own businesses, selling beads and her jewellery at Ibiza markets, then opening a shop on the island with her father. She even studied fashion and started a clothing label with a friend, but beads called her back! Since 2000 she has been involved full-time with The Bead Shop, helping to run the business, designing kits and jewellery for the website, and teaching beading classes. Emily is self-taught and always on the lookout for new techniques and designs to inspire her. She particularly loves working with Swarovski crystal and pearls – or anything that sparkles really!

MATERIALS FOR ALL PROJECTS

TO CREATE Count four coils of memory wire and cut. Make a simple loop at one end with round-nosed pliers. Thread on three size 6 clear purple-lined seed beads, a bicone, a Fimo rose, a bicone, three size 6 clear purplelined seed beads, five size 8 blue fuchsia-lined seed beads, another three size 6 clear purple-lined seed beads, a size 5 striped bead, a size 5 pink bead, a Fimo ladybird, a Fimo daisy, another pink bead and another striped bead. Repeat this sequence up to the fifth size 8 blue fuchsia-lined seed bead, then add a

1 2

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size 8 Ceylon Purple seed bead, a bicone, another Ceylon Purple seed bead and five more blue fuchsia-lined seed beads. Repeating the basic pattern, and using the main image above as your guide, thread on a rose sequence, a bicone sequence, a rose sequence, a bicone sequence, a ladybird and daisy sequence, a bicone sequence, a ladybird and daisy sequence, a bicone sequence, a rose sequence, a bicone sequence, a rose sequence, a bicone sequence, a ladybird and daisy sequence, a bicone sequence, a final ladybird and daisy sequence and a

final rose sequence. This is not an exact science so don’t worry if you don’t follow the pattern here down to the last seed bead! When you get to the end, cut off any excess wire, leaving approximately 1cm, and make a loop to finish off. Thread a selection of seed beads and bicones onto six headpins, with a maximum of four on each one. Turn a loop on each headpin. Open a jump ring and place on three of the beaded headpins (see Fig 1, left). Attach to one of the memory wire loops. Repeat with the other three headpins.

3 4

• clear light purple-lined size 11 seed beads • transparent dark amethyst size 11 seed beads • Ceylon Purple size 8 seed beads • matte blue fuchsia-lined size 8 seed beads • clear rainbow light purplelined size 6 seed beads • pink size 5 seed beads • clear pink-lined, purplestriped size 5 seed beads • purple colour-lined 4mm Miyuki square beads • approx 10 x Fimo ladybird beads • approx 10 x Fimo daisy beads • approx 10 x Fimo rose beads • 35 x Light Amethyst 6mm Swarovski bicones • 2 x clear crystal AB 12mm glass hearts • memory wire • 8 x headpins • 7-strand Beadalon • 2 x eyepins • 1.5mm tube crimps • 6 x 7mm jump rings • ear wires • 2m lilac and baby pink faux suede • 1m steel trace chain (6 links per inch) • 4 x 7mm box closers • extension chain • 14mm trigger clasp

TOOLS • memory wire cutters • side cutters • round-nosed and chain-nosed pliers

CBJ10 pp44-45 Bead Shop Manc_Beading 01/12/2010 14:59 Page 45

THE BEAD SHOP MANCHESTER

TO CREATE Cut a 12cm length of 7-strand beading wire. Thread on a size 11 seed bead, a size 5 pink bead and a Miyuki square. Mix up the two colours of size 11 seed beads and thread on 10 in random order. Next add a size 8 blue fuchsia-lined seed bead, a striped bead, a bicone and a Fimo rose. Repeat the sequence in mirror image to give a single pink bead in the centre, then repeat the whole pattern for a symmetrical strand. Thread on a tube crimp and feed one end of the wire through the crimp and a couple of beads, and the other end through a couple of beads. Pull both ends until there is no wire showing, then squeeze the crimp flat with chain-nosed pliers and cut off the excess wire. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 for the other earring.

LOVE HEART EARRINGS

TOP TIP

2 3

To make the drop, thread a size 11 seed bead, a bicone and another size 11 seed bead onto an eyepin. Turn a loop above the beads. Place a glass heart on a headpin and turn a loop, attaching it to the eye of the

beaded eyepin. Open a jump ring and place it over the crimp on one of your loops, between the pink beads. Add the earwire and your finished drop to the jump ring, and close. Repeat with the other earring.

Using this technique, you can also make an irresistible co-ordinating ring. Just make sure you measure your finger first for the right size, then add a Fimo flower in the centre of your mirrored seed bead sequence, and finish off in the same way as the earring loops

WHERE TO BUY All the materials used here are available from The Bead Shop Manchester, Afflecks Palace, 35 Oldham St, Manchester M1 1JG; www.the-beadshop.co.uk; 0161 833 9950

LOOPY NECKLACE You will need to make at least six beaded loops in the same way as for the earrings above. They can be any size, using any patterns you like, though I would recommend having a large loop and a very small loop included in your selection. To link the loops, ensure you thread your second loop

Attach a box closer to the other end of the suede lengths on both sides of the necklace. Attach the suede and chain to a jump ring as before, and on one side attach the extension chain and on the other a lobster clasp

4 through your first one before completing and closing it, then do the same with your third loop through your second, and so on. Continue until you are happy with the number of loops you have. Attach a box closer to each end of your two lengths of faux suede, then attach the crimp and the end link of your length of chain

to a jump ring. Capture one end of your linked beaded loops in the jump ring before closing it securely. Repeat on the other side. Measure the length around your neck, taking into account that the style of this necklace is to be longer on one side. Once you are happy with the length, cut off any excess chain and faux suede.

TOP TIP

TO CREATE

Make sure you have a size 11 seed bead on each side of the crimp as the crimp will go through the larger seed beads, making it harder to keep it in place

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CBJ10 pp46-47 Subs DPS_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:22 Page 46

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CBJ10 pp48-53 Bead Chall_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:00 Page 48

3 WAYS CHALLENGE

the bead

We asked a trio of talented designers to get busy with the same selection of beads – with delightfully different results!

CHALLENGE LINDSEY HOPKINS DESIGNER

LINDSEY SAYS... I knew I had to use the heart frame when we got the findings and charms for this challenge, so I decided to pack it full of

pink and red seed beads and cover them in a layer of Glossy Accents to give them a shiny finish. This fabulous medium is great for creating resin effects, especially with frame pieces. The earrings are simple but effective. You can add a completely different look to wire projects by feeding seed beads along the lengths, as I’ve done with the earring wires here. Finally, to prove that a necklace doesn’t need to be covered in beads to be a statement piece, I made the ‘Key To My Heart’ piece, focusing more on the charms than beads.

THIS ISSUE’S MIX... ...is a set of gothic-effect metal ﬁndings, charms & a focal heart frame. The selection featured was supplied by Madcowbeads (www.madcowbeads.co.uk)

TO CREATE

BEADED HEART CHOKER

Fill the heart frame with seed beads and add a few pearlescent heart beads on top. Cover the beads with Glossy Accents, taking care not to go over the edge of the frame. Add additional coats when the first is dry, if needed. Attach a jump ring to the top of the heart pendant and feed it onto the choker. Use pliers to pull away the end of the clasp spring on the choker clasp and insert the open end of the choker cord into it. Squeeze and twist the end of the clasp spring so it holds the choker cord firmly in place.

1 2 3 MATERIALS • Bead Challenge mix • pearlescent heart beads • seed beads • Ranger Glossy Accents

TOOLS • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers

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4 5

CBJ10 pp48-53 Bead Chall_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:00 Page 49

3 WAYS CHALLENGE TO CREATE Feed sets of beads onto headpins and bend the ends into loops so you have three pairs of matching charms. Put matching sets on each earring wire and attach a crimp on the back edge to prevent the headpins from slipping back. Add seed beads to the earring wire to sit along the front edge and finish with a crimp to keep them in place.

BEADED EARRINGS

2 3

MATERIALS • • • •

Bead Challenge mix seed beads acrylic and glass beads crimp

TOOLS • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers

KEY TO MY HEART NECKLACE TO CREATE Cut your chain to size and add a clasp. Attach the key and heart charms to the centre of the chain with jump rings. Feed a selection of beads onto headpins and attach to the charms and charm jump rings.

1 2 3

MATERIALS • Bead Challenge mix • acrylic and glass beads • seed beads

TOOLS • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers

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CBJ10 pp48-53 Bead Chall_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:00 Page 50

3 WAYS CHALLENGE

STEPHIE HALL DESIGNER

MATERIALS

ABOUT STEPHIE… Stephie works as a freelance designer for Madcowbeads. She has been beading for as long as she can remember and particularly enjoys working with crystals and silver to make sparkly jewellery pieces. The company stocks a huge range of Czech fire polished beads, along with all the essential beads, findings and tools for jewellery making.There is always something new or unusual on its website – the team works hard to source those special hard-to-get items alongside old favourites. Buy securely online at www.madcowbeads.com

STEPHIE SAYS... I loved this challenge! I’ve been looking for something to work in with friendly plastic for a while and the heart bezel pendant was perfect for it. I loved how the gothicsteampunk feel of the components could be translated into this wonderful air of dark romance and couldn’t resist patinating them to add to that effect.

MELTED HEART NECKLACE TO CREATE Cut friendly plastic into 11⁄2” strips. Arrange in a stripe pattern on a heatproof sheet (see Fig 1, below). Heat to fuse and melt on a heatproof sheet, pushing the ends gently towards the centre with a metal ruler or similar to encourage fusing. Rake with a comb tool in both directions to get a swirl pattern (Fig 2). Press the heart bezel like a cutter to get a firm outline and remove (Fig 3). Allow to cool, then cut out the heart shape with scissors. Wipe the inside of the heart pendant and the back of the plastic heart with acetate to remove finger oil and dirt. Glue the plastic heart into the heart bezel. Heat

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with a heat gun to make the plastic settle in the bezel. Place a heatproof sheet over the top and use your fingers to press gently in place if needed. Cool and apply Diamond Glaze – this really brings out the colours in friendly plastic. Make 23 beaded links with 2” lengths of wire. Join with jump rings to form a chain. Put the remaining beads onto headpins with a looped top. Find the centre link of the cable chain and add a jump ring. Two links out from the centre jump

6 1

ring, add two 8mm and two 4mm beads with a jump ring. Repeat at four-link intervals until you have four clusters on each side. Patinate all three lengths of chain according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Open the top link of the textured chain. Attach one end of the beaded chain and one end of the cable chain. Repeat at the other end. Add a jump ring and lobster clasp to the chain. Attach heart charms between the first two bead clusters on each side of the centre, and key charms

8 2

• Bead Challenge mix • friendly plastic • 20 x Garnet Red 8mm fire polished beads • 14 x Pink Ice 8mm fire polished beads • 13 x Light Peach 8mm fire polished beads • 8 x Light Peach 4mm fire polished beads • 8 x Rose Pink 4mm fire polished beads • 46” silver-plated wire • gunmetal lobster clasp • Diamond Glaze • E6000 Craft Adhesive • acetate (nail polish remover is fine) • liver of sulphur or patinating solution

TOOLS • round-nosed, flat-nosed and chain-nosed pliers • side cutters • heat gun • friendly plastic comb tool • heatproof sheets • scissors

between the second two clusters. Add the main heart pendant to the centre jump ring.

CBJ10 pp48-53 Bead Chall_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:00 Page 51

3 WAYS CHALLENGE TO CREATE

2 3

sulphur can take a while to have an effect, but with a fresh solution, it can be very quick.

ANTIQUE-STYLE BRACELET

MATERIALS • 6 x Garnet Red 8mm fire polished beads • 3 x Pink Ice 8mm fire polished beads • 2 x Light Peach 8mm fire polished beads • 22” silver-plated wire • liver of sulphur or patinating solution

TOP TIP

Make 11 beaded links with 2” lengths of wire, and join them with jump rings to form a chain. Attach to the sliding clasp loops with jump rings, making sure that you use the corresponding loops on both parts of the clasp. Open up the end link of the textured chain and add the other sliding clasp loop, then close. Repeat with the other part of the clasp. Patinate according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Old liver of

TOOLS • round-nosed, flat-nosed and chain-nosed pliers • side cutters

Add more strands of chain and beads for a truly unique statement bracelet

WHERE TO BUY All the beads and findings used here are available from www.madcowbeads.com Friendly plastic is available from www.rarebird.ltd.uk, along with some excellent starter information Liver of sulphur can be bought online at www.kernowcraft.com

TO CREATE Make beaded links with the Pink Ice beads. Then make beaded links with the

Garnet Red beads, catching the loop from the heart at one end of each link. Make sure the loops are big

enough to fit comfortably on the textured chain link. Open a textured ring link and add

both beaded links. Close the textured ring and add the top beaded link to the ear wire.

Repeat to complete the matching earring.

DARK ROMANCE EARRINGS

MATERIALS • 8” silver-plated 22-gauge wire • 2 x Garnet Red 8mm fire polished beads • 2 x Pink Ice 8mm fire polished beads

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CBJ10 pp48-53 Bead Chall_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:00 Page 52

3 WAYS CHALLENGE

MATERIALS • pink and red Fimo clay • chunky oval jump ring for bail • black flat-back crystals • adhesive

TOOLS • • • •

rolling pin glazed ceramic wall tile 800-grit sandpaper chain-nosed and flatnosed pliers • craft knife

JUDITH SAYS... My initial thought was “Oh no! There are no eyepins or wire” – the first findings I normally reach for when making jewellery. However, I was excited by the challenge and particularly enjoyed

creating the chunky bracelet from lengths of chain, joining them together with individual links taken from the chain for complete co-ordination.

NECKLACE TO CREATE Break a small ball of red clay and a small ball of pink clay into several pieces, then squash them all together and work the clay to combine the colours into a single ball. Roll the marbled clay out on the tile

WHERE TO BUY The tools and Swarovski crystals are available from www.beadshopscotland.co.uk Fimo polymer clay and flat-back crystals can be purchased from all good high street and online craft retailers 52

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to just thicker than the depth of the heart pendant. Lay the clay over the pendant and gently push it into the recessed area. Use your rolling pin over the surface of the pendant to force the clay into it smoothly. Continue rolling over the surface of the pendant to allow the excess clay to fall away from around the pendant. Use a very sharp knife to lift the clay out of the pendant from the very bottom point of the heart, and place it flat on your tile. Reshape the point of the heart if necessary before baking in the oven according to the packet instructions. Once the clay is cool, check for fit in the pendant and, if necessary, gently slice

TOP TIP

JUDITH HANNINGTON DESIGNER

If you have trouble removing the clay from the pendant blank ready for baking, try a different method. Roll the clay to the same depth as the internal recess on the pendant mount, then press the mount face down onto the surface of the clay to get an impression. Remove the pendant mount and cut out the heart shape using a knife

off any excess clay around the edges using a craft knife. Sand the front surface of the clay heart under water using 800-grit sandpaper and polish to a smooth shine using a woven cloth. Glue the clay heart into the pendant mount, then glue three black crystals onto the heart using a strong adhesive. Thread the chunky oval jump ring (or a tube bail of your choice) onto the

6 7

black necklace cord and use flat-nosed pliers to secure the coil to the free end of the cord by squashing the last rotation of the wire coil tight against it. Attach two links of oval-link chain to the jump ring and hang the heart pendant from the bottom. Attach a further two links of chain to the jump ring, in front of the heart, and attach a key to the bottom of this so it hangs in line with the heart.

CBJ10 pp48-53 Bead Chall_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:01 Page 53

3 WAYS CHALLENGE MATERIALS • mixed red and pink 4mm and 6mm Swarovski crystal bicones

EARRINGS

TOOLS • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers • side cutters

TO CREATE Attach a four-link length of the ovallink chain to each ear wire and hang a heart charm from the bottom of each. Thread the ball pins with crystal bicones and make a simple loop at the top of each, snug to the crystal. Hang these beaded ball pins from the top two links of the earring chains on both sides of the links, ensuring that each earring is a mirrored image of the other.

1 2 3

BRACELET

clasp to each end of the chains, making sure that they are not twisted between the two connector components. Remove single links from the leftover chain by opening them like a jump ring using flat-nosed and chainnosed pliers. Use these single links to connect the two lengths of bracelet chain together on every pair of alternate horizontal links. Thread the ball pins with crystal bicones and make a simple loop at the top of each, snug to the crystal. Attach the crystals in groups of three to a single jump ring and fix the jump rings to your connector links between the two lengths of chain. Add two heart charms to two of the jump rings on the bracelet using a further jump ring connection.

4 5 MATERIALS • mixed red and pink 4mm and 6mm Swarovski crystal bicones

TOOLS • round-nosed, chain-nosed and flat-nosed pliers • side cutters

TO CREATE Cut two lengths of textured round-link

chain with an odd number of links to fit snugly around the

wearer’s wrist. Attach the sliding double connector

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CBJ10 pp54-55 Beadster_CBJ 01/12/2010 10:43 Page 54

THE BEADSTER

swinging

RUTH HUGHES DESIGNER

ABOUT RUTH… Ruth Hughes is the founder of The Beadster in Shaftesbury, Dorset, and has been passionate about beads and beading for many years. She turned her hobby into a business in 2007, and loves helping people to get the most out of their beading budget!

SIXTIES This monochromatic combination is timeless, with a stylised pattern reminiscent of the Sixties that is right on trend. Team it with this season’s natural woollens and fabrics for a casual look, or make it sleek and stylish with a little black dress

MATERIALS • 7 x brown and grey retro-style 20x10mm lentil beads • 8 x black 10mm faceted glass cubes • 44 x silver 8mm heavyweight jump rings • 2 x silver 9x9mm grooved metal oval beads • 15 x silver headpins • 1m black 2mm rat-tail • 2 x silver folding crimps • 2 x silver 6mm split rings • silver 12mm lobster clasp

TOOLS • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers • side cutters • split-ring pliers (optional)

NECKLACE TO CREATE

Begin constructing the lentil and cube units by snipping the head off a headpin with side cutters and threading on a bead. Bend the headpin at 90° on both sides, and snip the pin to approximately 7mm from the top of the bead. Using round-

nosed pliers, turn the headpin to make a neat loop on each end. Complete all the lentil and cube beads in the same way. Open and attach a jump ring to each turned loop on all the beads. Then take the remaining jump rings and use them to join the bead

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units together in an alternating pattern. Cut the rat-tail in half and thread one length through the last jump ring on one end. Slide a silver grooved oval over both ends of the rat-tail so that it sits above the jump ring. Complete the other side in the same way, check for fit,

and adjust by cutting off the excess rat-tail as necessary. Finish the necklace by positioning a folding crimp over the

raw ends of the rat-tail and neatly closing it with flat-nosed pliers. Add a split ring to the loop of the folding crimp and complete the other side in the same way, adding a lobster clasp to the split ring.

WHERE TO BUY All the materials used here are available from The Beadster, Sun & Moon Cottage, Gold Hill, Shaftesbury, Dorset SP7 8JW; www.thebeadster.com; 01747 858719

CBJ10 pp54-55 Beadster_CBJ 01/12/2010 10:43 Page 55

THE BEADSTER MATERIALS • 4 x brown and grey retro-style 15x10mm tubes • 3 x black 6x6mm faceted glass cubes • 2 x silver 6x6mm metal barrels • 10 x black seed beads • 2 x silver calottes • 2 x crimps • silver 10x14mm toggle clasp • 1m black Tigertail

BRACELET

TOOLS • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers • side cutters

TO CREATE

Cut the Tigertail in half, hold two of the ends together, and thread on a calotte and a crimp. Flatten the crimp, snip the excess Tigertail and close the calotte. Attach the calotte to one half of the toggle clasp. Thread a black seed bead over both strands of Tigertail, then a glass cube onto one strand

and another seed bead onto both strands. Thread a retro tube over one strand, and another black seed bead over both strands, then a

silver metal barrel over one strand. Continue with this pattern, alternating the retro tubes with a glass cube then a metal

barrel, and finishing with a glass cube and black seed bead. Carefully check for fit (you can shuffle the beads a little to lengthen or shorten the

bracelet), then thread a calotte and crimp to secure. Trim the excess Tigertail, close the calotte, and attach it to the other half of the toggle clasp.

TO CREATE

EARRINGS

Thread a retro round bead onto a headpin and bend at 90°, snug to the top of the bead. Snip the headpin approximately 8mm from the bead and turn a neat loop in the end using roundnosed pliers. Open the loop at the bottom of the spiral earring hook and attach the wired bead. Close the loop to finish. Complete the second earring in the same way.

2 3

MATERIALS • 2 x brown and grey retro-style 14mm round beads • 2 x sterling silver spiral earring hooks • 2 x silver headpins

TOOLS • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers • side cutters

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CBJ09 pp56 Designer Gallery (BSS)_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:03 Page 56

DESIGNER GALLERY

designer Each reader featured wins a jewellery kit kindly donated by The Bead Shop Scotland

GALLERY

Be inspired by these fabulous designs and send your own creations in to us – we’d love to see them

MOUNTAIN RAIN BY WENDY MANZ FROM MANITOBA, CANADA MATERIALS

www.beadshopscotland.co.uk Haddington 01620 822886 Edinburgh 0131 343 3222

• • • • • • • • • •

130 black 16-gauge 5⁄16” anodised aluminium jump rings silver lobster clasp 20 18-gauge 7⁄32” non-tarnish silvered copper jump rings 2” Jade Leaf 4 x 8mm amethyst crystal bicones 3 x 18mm dyed turquoise shell chips 4 x 15mm fancy clear glass leaves 5 x 10mm deep purple round glass beads 10mm turquoise glass faceted bead 36” non-tarnish 18-gauge silver Artist Wire

AMETHYST DELIGHT BRACELET BY OLIVIA HODGKINSON FROM ST IVES MATERIALS • • • • •

memory wire lobster clasp Swarovski beads and pearls headpins split rings

PURPLE PASSION NECKLACE BY ANN DRUMMOND FROM CHESHIRE MATERIALS • black chain • silver jump rings and headpins • bead caps • black eyepins

• • • • •

black lobster clasp Swarovski pearls silver and black pearls plastic faceted beads plastic flower beads

Want to see your creations in our Designer Gallery? Don’t be shy! To submit your work for publication, either email an image to lindsey.hopkins@practicalpublishing.co.uk or send your project with a stamped addressed envelope for return to CB&J Gallery, Practical Publishing, Unit 1 Adlington Court, Adlington Business Park, Macclesﬁeld, Cheshire SK10 4NL. Don’t forget to include a list of the materials you used.

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CBJ10 pp57 Halves_CBJ 29/11/2010 15:08 Page 57

The Bead Store, 11B Fore Street, Mevagissey, Cornwall PL26 6UQ

www.thebeadstore.co.uk www.creativebeadsandjewellery.com

CBJ10 pp58-61 Precious Sparkle Needle Pins_CBJ 01/12/2010 14:50 Page 58

CORSAGE PINS PRECIOUS SPARKLE BEADS

needles and DAWN COTTON FUGE DESIGNER

PINS

TO CREATE Before you start, check that the holes in your chosen beads are large enough to allow 0.8mm wire to

MATERIALS • turquoise 10mm round bead • 2 x amethyst 7mm glass round beads • sterling silver 0.8mm wire

TOOLS • flat-nosed pliers • side cutters • tiny mandrel (optional)

TOP TIP

SAFETY PIN BROOCH

pass through. Then cut a 30cm length of soft sterling silver wire. You will be twisting and bending the wire with just your hands. About 4” into the wire length, make your first bend so that the wire is like two pieces flat against one another. This is the hook that the end of the wire will latch through to close the brooch. Bend the two parallel pieces under to form a U-shape about 1cm in length. At a point

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about 1.5cm beyond the U, bend the shorter piece of wire at right angles to the longer piece. Use your fingers to pinch the two parallel pieces of wire tightly together whilst you wrap the shorter piece of wire around them twice. String your three beads onto the longer piece of wire with the turquoise bead in the centre. You will wrap the short length of wire between these beads later so you need

Whether it’s to hold a wrap in place or add colour, sparkle or individuality to a plain coat or cape, corsage pins are a winter essential! Here Dawn Cotton Fuge creates some beautiful broochstyle designs with pretty beads and wirework, while overleaf Mel Brooke uses unusual fabrics to give her pieces a funky, modern twist

I recommend trying this with craft wire as a mock-up of the final piece so that you understand the technique before having a go with sterling silver wire

to leave sufficient gaps to allow this to happen. Opposite the hook you created, make a loop like that in the end of a safety pin. Take something small and round, like a tiny mandrel, and wrap the wire around it, nearly twice but without actually completing the final loop. The last section of the longer piece of wire that you are left with forms the pin of the brooch. Using your fingers and something curved (like a glass), make a large, gentle bend in the wire. Right at the end, work out where the wire needs to be bent back on itself to catch the hook

that you made in Step 1. Bend and adjust so that it fits snugly, and trim any excess wire. With your fingers, evenly spread out the three beads on the brooch. Use the shorter piece of wire to wrap over the first bead, around the wire between the first and second beads, under the second bead, around the wire between the second and third beads, and finally over the third bead. Twist the wire twice around the end before the loop previously made in the brooch. Use flat-nosed pliers to secure the end firmly, and trim any excess wire.

WHERE TO BUY All the materials used here are available from Precious Sparkle Beads, 8 Bridge Lane, Perth PH1 5JJ; www.precioussparklebeads.co.uk; 01738 563264

CBJ10 pp58-61 Precious Sparkle Needle Pins_CBJ 01/12/2010 14:50 Page 59

CORSAGE PINS PRECIOUS SPARKLE BEADS Cut a piece of halfhard sterling silver wire approximately 8-9” long and bend it into a U-shape with your hands. Using pliers, make a loop at the top of each end, ensuring that the holes will be large enough to allow the hand-forged pin to pass through.

Take a long piece of 0.4 or 0.5mm soft sterling silver wire (the thickest you can get away with given the hole size of the beads you have chosen) and begin wrapping at the top of one side, just below a loop. Wrap four or five times, then add a bead. Adjust the bead

so that it sits neatly on the side of the wire, then wrap the wire around the thicker wire another four times before adding a pearl. Alternate in this pattern until you have four amethyst beads and four pearls attached along one half of your U-shape. Add the focal briolette,

U-SHAPED WIRE-WRAPPED BROOCH

taking care that it hangs nicely in the middle. Wrap in the same way as before, and continue wrapping alternate pearls and amethyst beads in a mirror image of the first side. Wrap the end of the wire neatly four times around the end and trim any excess. Cut another piece of 1mm wire, making sure it is long enough to go through both holes in the brooch with plenty of extra at each end. Beginning with your round-nosed pliers, create a large spiral at one end. Achieving this with half-hard wire is more difficult than with soft wire. Once you have a spiral you like the size and shape of, bend the wire at right angles using chain-nosed pliers. Make sure the end of the piece of wire

4 TO CREATE Taking a length of 0.8mm or 1mm wire, make a spiral on one end using your fingers and roundnosed pliers. Then begin to bend the wire with your fingers, back and forth, so that you are making similar but not evenly shaped bends. These bends will end up looking like the petals of a flower. When you reach the end of your piece, having made what will end up looking like six petals,

MATERIALS • sterling silver 0.8mm or 1mm soft wire • sterling silver 0.5mm soft wire • assorted amethyst and aqua chalcedony beads

TOOLS • round-nosed pliers • side cutters • hammer and block

twist the loose end into a spiral. At this stage the wire just looks like a piece of wire with lots of bends in it! In order to form the shape of the piece, you have to ‘tie’ two pieces of wire together at the inside by wrapping wire around them. Start with the two spirals and wrap the wire around and around until they are held snugly together. With each loop, tie the wire first around one piece of wire 2-3 times to anchor it. Then begin winding it around the two pieces of wire, holding them firmly with your fingers so they are wrapped tightly together. Halfway along, add a bead so that it sits on the top, then keep wrapping around the

wires underneath. Finish off and trim away the excess wire. Repeat with each ‘petal’, alternating between aqua and amethyst beads. Once you have done this, take your hammer and block and lightly flatten the exposed end of each of the wire petals. Hammer on both sides to flatten and smooth the wire, as far up as you can go without hitting the stones. Lightly hammer the spirals too. Make a pin by cutting a piece of wire long enough to fit comfortably through the piece. Make a spiral as before, but this time bend the wire at right angles further away from the spiral to begin to make a triangle. Make a second bend further

is neatly trimmed. Then, using a hammer and block, begin to gently hammer the wire flat, working back and forth along the length of the wire and turning it over to hammer both sides. Be careful not to hammer excessively. The wire will have developed a handforged look when you are done. Slip the pin through the loops in the brooch to complete.

MATERIALS • sterling silver 1mm half-hard wire • sterling silver 0.4mm or 0.5mm soft wire • 8 x amethyst 5-6mm faceted rondelles (or ‘tyres’) • 8 x rice pearls (drilled along the top) • aqua chalcedony plain peardrop

TOOLS • round-nosed, flat-nosed and chain-nosed pliers • side cutters • hammer and block

FREEFORM BROOCH

up and a third bend beyond that, evenly spaced. Make a fourth bend parallel with the spiral – you should now have a triangular head above the pin. Use your hammer and block to lightly forge the whole piece.

TOP TIP

TO CREATE

This is very much a freeform piece and yours should look similar but different. The technique is easy to master

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CBJ10 pp58-61 Precious Sparkle Needle Pins_CBJ 01/12/2010 14:51 Page 60

CORSAGE PINS BEADS BY LILI DENIM CORSAGE

MEL BROOKE DESIGNER

ABOUT MEL… When Mel launched www.beadsbylili.com she had a hunch that beading and jewellery making would become popular in the UK. Like many others, she started out designing and selling jewellery pieces at local craft fairs but, she says, “it was difficult to source interesting, fashionable beads, so I began to spend a lot of time working on that to the point where the bead side of the business took over”. So Beads by Lili was born, with the strapline ‘We dream of beads’ because, Mel says, “beading and fashion is my passion and I literally would dream of beads!”.

TO CREATE Cut seven circles of denim fabric, each measuring 7-8cm in diameter. Take one circle and fold it in half, then fold the half into three to get a

MATERIALS • blue frosted glass round bead • pink 4mm glass pearls • pink seed beads • denim fabric • organza/net fabric • brooch finding • Tigertail • crimps • 0.4mm wire

TOOLS • • • •

chain-nosed pliers side cutters scissors glue (or glue gun)

conical-shaped ruffle. Glue the folds so that it holds the shape. Repeat another five times, keeping one circle to use for the back of the corsage. Cut six circles of organza/net fabric to measure 6cm in diameter. Fold as per the denim circles in Step 1. Make the central beaded flower shape as follows: Thread seed beads and glass pearls onto a length of Tigertail and bend into a loop to make a petal shape. Thread the wire end back through the first seed bead to hold the shape. Continue in this way until you have six petals, then thread the two ends of Tigertail through a crimp and squash with

2 3

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chain-nosed pliers. Make a small hole in the centre of the last denim circle. Working on the back of the fabric, glue the six denim ‘ruffles’ around the circle, then add the organza/net ruffles on top. Thread the ends of the Tigertail from the beaded flower centre through the hole in the denim. Thread a frosted bead onto a 10cm length of 0.4mm wire and twist the wire a couple of times underneath the bead. Thread the wire down through the hole in the centre of the corsage and twist it around the Tigertail ends a couple

of times, then trim and bend it to one side so that it won’t slip back through the hole in the denim. Cut an oval-shaped piece of denim slightly larger than the brooch finding. Cut two small holes at each end that are just large enough to push the brooch finding shoulders through from the ‘wrong’ side (so that the main part of the brooch finding is hidden and the pin closes over the right side of the denim). Glue it over the middle of the underneath of the corsage to hide the hole and wire. Fluff up the petals to finish.

WHERE TO BUY All the materials used here are available from www.beadsbylili.com; 01249 651769

CBJ10 pp58-61 Precious Sparkle Needle Pins_CBJ 01/12/2010 14:51 Page 61

CORSAGE PINS BEADS BY LILI MATERIALS • 6 x blue 8mm crackle beads • purple and navy blue 3mm faux suede cord • patterned fabric hoop bead • 0.4mm wire • 2 x 16mm jump rings • large safety pin

SUEDE CORSAGE

TOOLS • chain-nosed pliers • side cutters • scissors

TO CREATE Cut six 8cm lengths of navy blue faux suede cord. Carefully cut each piece in two lengthways. Fold the thin pieces in two and attach them around a 16mm jump ring using lark’s head knots. Cut six 6cm lengths of purple faux suede cord. Cut lengthways and attach to a second 16mm jump ring as before. Thread the crackle beads onto the centre of a 20cm length of 0.4mm wire, twisting the wire a few times underneath each

2 3

of the beads as you do so to hold them in a cluster shape. Twist the ends together once or twice but leave them fairly long.

Hold the bead cluster and thread the purple corded jump ring onto the wire, followed by the fabric hoop and then

the navy blue corded ring so that they are layered underneath the cluster. Use the wire ends to wind around

and attach a large safety pin to the underside of the corsage. Trim the ends and tuck them in neatly.

RIBBON BOW CORSAGE

TO CREATE

Finally, open the safety pin and push the ‘head’ of it through the ribbon underneath the bow. Add a few stitches to hold it in place if desired. Trim the ends of the check ribbon tails into reverse Vshapes and trim the organza ribbon ends diagonally. Gently pull and fluff out the ribbon loops each side of the rose bead.

Hold the two lengths of ribbon together and wind them around four fingers of one hand. Slip them off and wrap the ends around the middle of the loops, then tie the ends together on the back of the bow, leaving 14-15cm tails either end. Thread ordinary white cotton thread onto a needle and sew it up and down through the centre of the bow a few times to secure the knot. Thread more cotton onto the needle and pass it through the hole on the resin rose, then sew this onto the centre of the bow.

4 5

MATERIALS • purple resin rose bead • 2m purple check satin ribbon • 2m purple 6mm organza ribbon • large safety pin • white cotton thread

TOOLS • needle • scissors

www.creativebeadsandjewellery.com

CBJ10 pp62 Survey House Ad_SBM 01/12/2010 15:42 Page 62

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Something old, something new ............................................. Northern lights ......................................................................... Cut glass .................................................................................... Secret grotto ............................................................................. Melting pot ................................................................................ Garnet......................................................................................... All things bright & beautiful ................................................. The Bead Challenge ................................................................ Swinging Sixties....................................................................... Needles and pins ...................................................................... Bend it, shape it ....................................................................... A snowflake fell ........................................................................ The ins and outs of chain maille .......................................... Ice queen.................................................................................... Pieces of silver .........................................................................

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CBJ10 pp63 Qrtrs_CBJ 26/11/2010 14:14 Page 63

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CBJ10 pp64-65 Kards Krafts_Beading 01/12/2010 14:54 Page 64

KARDS & CRAFTS

KAREN JORDAN DESIGNER

ABOUT KARDS & KRAFTS… Kards & Krafts has an extensive online store, as well as a shop in Ware, Hertfordshire, stocking cardmaking, scrapbooking, beading, jewellery-making, cross-stitching, knitting and children’s crafts materials. The shop celebrated its fifth birthday in 2010, and the team is always willing to help you source items for your crafting projects, whatever they are. Karen also teaches jewellery, cardmaking and scrapbooking courses in the shop – further details can be found on the website.

BENDIT shape it Karen Jordan shares some clever tricks with wire and pliers for delicate silver shapes and spirals that look wonderful with pretty blue beads

SPIRAL NECKLACE

MATERIALS

TOOLS • chain-nosed and round-nosed pliers • side cutters

TO CREATE

Use 26-gauge wire to create your spirals, as it is soft enough to shape with your fingers. Begin by making a small closed loop at the end of

the wire using roundnosed pliers. Hold the loop flat with your chainnosed pliers, and with the other hand gently bend the wire around the loop. Keep turning the loop and bending the wire around to create the spiral (see Fig 1, right). When the spiral has reached your desired size, turn a loop with your round-nosed pliers, then bring the wire end around the other side of the spiral to the point directly opposite. Trim the excess wire and turn a loop to finish. Repeat to make 12 spirals, of

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varying sizes. Plan your pattern for the seven strands to hang from the necklace, using beads and your spirals. Each bead at the bottom of a strand needs to be individually strung onto a headpin and a loop turned above it (to do this, bend the wire directly above the bead at 90°, trim to approximately 1.5cm and use round-nosed pliers to grip the end and turn in a loop). Thread each of the other beads you want for the strands individually onto eyepins and turn a loop snug to the bead on each pin.

Join up the beads and spirals for each strand by opening one loop and linking them together. Cut a 7cm length of beading wire and turn a loop at one end. String on your seven strands with smaller turquoise beads between them to space them out evenly. Turn a loop at the other end to secure. For added detail, you can connect two individual beads to each side of this piece, using eyepins and turning a loop at the other side of the beads. Attach a 16cm length of chain to

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each side and finish with a clasp on the end of the chain.

TOP TIP

• silver 24-gauge wire • 20 x black 6mm Czech glass round beads • silver 26-gauge wire • turquoise Viking Loom glass bead mix • turquoise Viking Loom rocaille mix • silver 4mm open-link chain • silver beading wire • silver clasps • silver fish-hook ear wires • silver headpins • silver eyepins

Use three of the necklace strands together for a bag charm or key ring

CBJ10 pp64-65 Kards Krafts_Beading 01/12/2010 14:54 Page 65

TOP TIP

KARDS & CRAFTS Choose your earring beads first, so you have similar matching beads for each earring!

DIAMOND EARRINGS

TO CREATE

Use 26-gauge wire to create your diamonds, as it is soft enough to shape with your fingers. Begin by creating a small closed loop at the end of the wire using round-nosed pliers. Hold chain-nosed pliers close up to the loop and bend the wire against the pliers to create a 90° corner. Move your pliers along the wire and bend to create the next corner. Continue working around, bending corners to make larger diamonds (Fig 1, right). When your diamond is the desired size,

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thread on 10 small beads, turn a loop with round-nosed pliers at a corner, then continue to create another corner. Stop at the opposite side of your diamond, trim the excess wire and turn

ZIGZAG BRACELET

a loop to finish. Repeat to make four diamonds in total. Thread ‘matching’ beads onto two headpins and two eyepins, and create loops snug to the beads. String

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two beaded pins and two diamonds together as with the strands for the spiral necklace opposite, then repeat for a matching pair. Attach a fish hook to the top of each strand.

TO CREATE

Use 24-gauge wire to create your zigzags, as it is a bit stronger than 26-gauge wire and thus better able to hold the shapes. Begin by creating a small closed loop at the end of the wire using roundnosed pliers.

Continue using your round-nosed pliers to bend the wire around, creating the zigzag shape. Use different parts of the pliers to make smaller and larger ‘bends’ (see Fig 1, left). When your zigzag is approximately 3cm long, string on 6-8 small beads, trim the excess wire and turn a loop to finish. Repeat to make six zigzags in total. Choose seven beads and string each one individually onto an eyepin. Turn a loop in each of the pins, snug to the bead. Join up your seven beaded pins and six zigzags into a chain by opening one loop and linking them together. Attach the clasp components to the last loop at each end.

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TOP TIP

For a longer project, why not make larger zigzags to create an eye-catching belt?

WHERE TO BUY All the materials used here are available from Kards & Krafts, 10 Baldock Street, Ware, Herts SG12 9DZ; www.kardsandkrafts.co.uk; 01920 469478

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CBJ10 pp66 Bead Shop Scot_CBJ 01/12/2010 14:53 Page 66

THE BEAD SHOP SCOTLAND

old-fashioned

CHARM

Follow Jo Lochhead’s clever technique for creating a truly unique pendant with a soft-focus vintage look – then pair it with vibrant Lucite beads in some of the hottest shades for 2011 to give a totally up-tothe-minute twist

JO LOCHHEAD DESIGNER

ABOUT JO… Jo Lochhead has been designing and making jewellery for more than 10 years. In 2004 she opened her first bead shop and now runs two ‘real’ shops and an online business. Many of the beads she sells are handmade individually by Jo, her sister or her partner Andy.

TO CREATE Choose a suitable copyright-free image from a papercraft website or wrapping paper, or use one of your own photos or drawings, and cut to fill the pendant blank. Stick the image onto the pendant with Hypo Cement glue. Cover the pendant with a thin layer of Deko Gel (Liquid Fimo). Make sure there are no gaps or bubbles by spreading the Deko Gel around with a

MATERIALS

matchstick or cocktail stick. Bake the pendant for 15 minutes at 100ºc. Cut the required length of chain – this style of necklace is suited to a long chain of, for example, around 30”. Attach the finished pendant to the middle of the chain with a 6mm jump ring.

Attach the clasp to either end of the chain using 6mm jump rings. Create a dangle of six jump rings and attach this to the loop end of the clasp. Create a flower dangle by threading a crystal onto a headpin, followed by a small Lucite bead. Form a wrapped loop with the headpin and

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attach it to the last jump ring in the dangle. Create flowers of various sizes by threading a crystal, followed by a small Lucite flower and then a larger Lucite flower onto headpins. Attach the headpins to the chain by threading the pin through a link in the chain and then creating a wrapped loop.

• 1m antique gold trace chain • antique gold 45x55mm oval pendant blank • antique gold swirldesign toggle clasp • antique gold 6mm round jump rings • antique gold 2” headpins • assorted Lucite flower beads in different styles and colours • Green Tourmaline 4mm and 6mm Swarovski bicone crystals • Deko Gel (Liquid Fimo)

TOOLS • side cutters • round-nosed and chain-nosed pliers • Hypo Cement glue

TOP TIP

WHERE TO BUY The necklace pictured is asymmetric but it would also look lovely, and give a more traditional feel, if the groups of flowers were spaced evenly around the chain

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All the materials used here are available from The Bead Shop Scotland stores in Edinburgh and Haddington, East Lothian; www.beadshopscotland.co.uk; 01620 822886

CB&J10 pp67 Giveawayz_Beading 02/12/2010 15:11 Page 67

GIVEAWAYS LARK JEWELRY BOOK SET

FABULOUS WOVEN JEWELRY BOOKS

1 TO GIVE AWAY, WORTH £57.96 5 TO GIVE AWAY, WORTH £12.99 EACH

This fabulous, inspiration-packed book set from Lark Jewelry (www.larkbooks.com) includes Prefab Jewelry, Bronze Metal Clay, Beadmaille and 500 Gemstone Jewels, so there’s something for everyone!

The GMC Group (www.thegmcgroup. com; 01273 477374) has donated these lovely books by Mary Hettmansperger, with useful information on basic tools and materials, followed by four technique-based chapters that increase in difﬁculty as the book progresses. A gallery of work by the author and other contemporary artists is included for inspiration.

THE CRAFT FACTORY PRODUCT SET 1 TO GIVE AWAY, WORTH £25 Get super organised with all your supplies and creations with this bead board and cantilever craft box. For stockist enquiries, email crafts@stockistenquiries.com or call 01453 883851.

GIVEAWAYS Over £250 worth of prizes to be won! H4 BLUE PANSY CERAMIC HEART PENDANTS

TO ENTER For your chance to win one of these great prizes, send your name and address on a POSTCARD, along with the name of the product you want to win, to CB&J10 Giveaways, Practical Publishing, Unit 1 Adlington Court, Adlington Business Park, Macclesﬁeld, Cheshire SK10 4NL to arrive by 20th January 2011.

5 TO GIVE AWAY, WORTH £3.75 EACH These beautiful pendants are available from Injabulo (www.injabulo.com), where you will ﬁnd a unique range of buttons, beads and knitting and stitching accessories, all handmade by women in South Africa under fairtrade policies. These blue pansy design heart pendants measure approximately 4.5x3cm.

DOBRA CRAFTS FIVE-PIECE TOOL SET 1 TO GIVE AWAY, WORTH £25 This essentials toolkit includes ﬁve different pliers and cutters with attractive pink handles, presented in a lovely leatherette case. www.dobracrafts.com; 01527 521460.

COUSIN CRYSTAZZI JEWELLERY KITS 3 TO GIVE AWAY, WORTH £19.99 EACH These fabulous Amber Glow crystal and glass pearl jewellery kits have been donated by docrafts (www.docrafts. com), and boast 900 different pieces with beads and ﬁndings.

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CBJ10 pp68 Shopping Blue_CBJ 02/12/2010 10:42 Page 68

SHOPPING GUIDE

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ICE BLUE Embrace the winter season and try your hand at your own icy makes

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7 8 10 9 7

4MM BICONES Stockist: Precious Sparkle Beads www.precioussparkle beads.co.uk Tel: 01738 563264 RRP: £1.59 for 36 beads

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20MM GLASS BEADS

Stockist: The Bead Store www.thebeadstore.co.uk Tel: 01726 844999 RRP: 50p each 2

MYSTIC QUARTZ FACETED PEAR BRIOLETTES Stockist: Precious Sparkle Beads www.precioussparkle beads.co.uk Tel: 01738 563264 RRP: £20.99 for an 8” strand

10MM ROUND SEA GLASS BEADS

Stockist: Precious Sparkle Beads www.precioussparkle beads.co.uk Tel: 01738 563264 RRP: £3.49 for a 15” strand

Stockist: B for Beads www.b-for-beads.co.uk Tel: 01352 755532 RRP: £6 for a 15.5” string 4

MARBLED GLASS BEAD SELECTION Stockist: Beads Direct www.beadsdirect.co.uk Tel: 01509 218028 RRP: £1.99 for 50g

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5MM PERUVIAN OPAL ROUND BEADS

Stockist: The Bead Store www.thebeadstore.co.uk Tel: 01726 844999 RRP: £1.25 for 8.5-9g 9

4MM COLOUR-LINED MIYUKI BEADS Stockist: Beads Direct www.beadsdirect.co.uk Tel: 01509 218028 RRP: £1.29 for 12g

BRANELLO SILVER FOIL LAMPWORK BEADS Stockist: B for Beads www.b-for-beads.co.uk Tel: 01352 755532 RRP: 70p each

11/0 TOHO SEED BEADS

MOBILE PHONE CORD Stockist: The Bead Store www.thebeadstore.co.uk Tel: 01726 844999 RRP: 15p each

CBJ10 pp69 Qrtrs_CBJ 26/11/2010 14:19 Page 69

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CBJ10 pp70-71 Bluebell Designs_Beading 01/12/2010 10:32 Page 70

BLUEBELL DESIGN STUDIO

a SNOWFLAKE Precious Metal Clay lends itself perfectly to easy enamelling. Emma Gordon introduces the Champlevé technique with this lovely subtle snowflake pendant his project is an introduction to kiln enamelling pieces made from Precious Metal Clay. Enamel is basically powdered glass and there are many different techniques to apply it to metal. Here I am using a Champlevé technique – Champlevé means ‘little cells’ and is a way of setting enamel into small cells on your silver design. PMC can be easily textured for this purpose. When starting to use enamels, it is best to try transparent cool colours such as blues, greys, lilacs and turquoises. ‘Hotter’ colours like reds and pinks can be a little more unpredictable and less stable during the ﬁring process! The pendant itself is slightly thicker than normal, and set on a gentle curve. This is to avoid having to counterenamel the piece. Counter-enamelling means applying enamel to the back and is used to minimise the stress and pull on the piece when it’s heating up and the glass is fusing – this is usually necessary for thinner, ﬂatter items.

T EMMA GORDON DESIGNER

ABOUT EMMA... Emma runs Bluebell Design Studio, based in Fife, which offers the widest variety of Precious Metal Clay workshops in Scotland. She loves both working with, and teaching the art of, PMC, and really enjoys the reaction from her first-time students when they take a brass brush to newly fired silver! She regularly attends Masterclasses to keep advancing her skills and is the Communications Director for the Metal Clay Academy, an independent website that is an enormous resource for established PMC artists as well as beginner.s In addition to this, Emma is a member of the PMC Guild and is in the process of setting up a regional Scottish PMC Guild group.

WHERE TO BUY Enamels and enamelling equipment are available from www.cooksongold.com PMC3 can be purchased online at www.bluebelldesignstudio.co.uk Distilled water is readily available in supermarkets and Halfords 70

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TO CREATE THE PENDANT Select a texture sheet with good deep textures. Roll out your clay and apply the texture, making sure your clay is six cards deep. Cut out your pendant shape, either freehand or using a

shape cutter. Drape your piece over a spoon or lightbulb to give it a slight curve. Let it dry. Sand and finish your piece as normal For more information on basic techniques using PMC, visit www. craftsonthenet.com/

downloads. It is a good idea to create a ‘frame’ in which the enamel sits – this will also protect the enamel from wear and tear. Use a syringe without any nozzle and pipe round the outside of your shape (see Fig 1, below). Let this dry.

CBJ10 pp70-71 Bluebell Designs_Beading 01/12/2010 10:32 Page 71

BLUEBELL DESIGN STUDIO

‘Seal’ up the rim with more clay, either from the syringe or from a moistened lump. You can sand the rim flat to make it more of a flat edge if you prefer, but make sure that the join and the edge of the clay is sealed and flush (Fig 2). You don’t want any enamel going under the join, which may cause problems later. Drill a hole or fix a bail to the pendant. Fire the pendant as you normally would. The optimum firing time for PMC3 is two hours at 900ºc. Once the pendant is ﬁred, brush and tumble. You should tumble the piece for at least two hours, as silver clay is very porous and tumbling helps decrease the porosity before enamelling.

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PREPARING TO ENAMEL Place a small amount of dry enamel in a clear plastic cup. Pour a small amount of distilled water into the cup and swirl it around, agitating the enamel. Pour the water out – most of the enamel should stay in the bottom of the cup. The water you discard will be cloudy. Repeat this process until the water appears clear. The enamel will be wet and there should be a small amount of water left in the cup. Repeat Step 7 for any other colours

NEED TO KNOW

fell you have chosen, using a fresh cup for each colour. Take your silver pendant from the tumbler and use a fibreglass brush carefully under running water to remove any soapy residue. Dry your pendant with some kitchen towel (Fig 3). Use a fine paintbrush to scoop up the enamel and place it in the cell you want (Fig 4). This application may take practice – too much water in your enamel and you may not get an even coverage, too little water and it may be difficult to position. You can wick away water using the corner of a piece of kitchen towel or add water with a paintbrush. Add all your colours to your piece according to your design. It is possible to move the grains of enamel to create a graduated colour effect (Fig 5). Use a clean rubber-ended clay shaper to remove any stray grains of enamel from the areas that you want to be kept clean. Let the enamel on your piece dry completely.

You should not work with leaded enamels if you are pregnant or think you could be. Always work in a wellventilated area, taking care to use a mask and gloves when handling the enamel. Do not put any of your tools in or near your mouth, and keep out of the reach of children. In this project we show you how to wash and wet pack the enamels, which minimises the risks

Using a kiln fork, pick up the wire rack gently and place it inside the kiln – do this quickly to avoid the temperature falling too far. Close the kiln door, taking care not to redistribute the enamel inside. Wait until the temperature reaches 815ºc again, then start your timer. Each kiln will vary and you will need to find out what works for you but it should take 1-2 minutes for the glass to fuse correctly. The fusing process goes through three main visible stages: Firstly, there is the ‘sugar’ stage, where the enamel looks like granulated sugar. Secondly, there is the ‘orange peel’ stage, where the enamel is partially fused and looks like an orange skin. Thirdly, when the enamel is smooth and glossy, it has fused correctly and should be taken out of the kiln. If

it remains in the kiln past this time for too long, it will burn and discolour – though the cooler colours are more forgiving. If you take the piece out before the process is complete, just return it to the kiln, wait for the kiln to return to the correct temperature and continue timing. It will not damage the enamel to be interrupted in this way. Once you are happy that the enamel has fused correctly, take it out of the kiln and let it cool naturally (Fig 6). Do NOT quench your piece. If any areas of your piece need re-enamelling, do so and refire. If there are small pieces of unwanted enamel outside your design, you can use an alundum stone under running water to grind them off.

Finally, re-brush and re-tumble. Apply liver of sulphur if you want a patina on your piece, but remember that only the silver will be affected; the enamel will not.

MATERIALS • • • •

16g PMC3 PMC3 syringe Badger Balm or olive oil ‘cool’ transparent enamels • distilled water

TOOLS • roller • graduated slats or playing cards • non-stick workmat • texture sheet with deep imprint • shape cutter • paintbrush and water • sandpaper or sand pads • drill • kiln • brass brush • tumble polisher • plastic cups • fine paintbrush • rubber-tipped clay shaper • kiln fork • wire rack • alundum stone

ENAMELLING The kiln temperature should be 815ºc. Carefully place your piece on a wire rack or support suitable for the high temperature of the kiln.

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CBJ10 pp72 Designer Gallery Bead Direct_CBJ 01/12/2010 14:59 Page 72

DESIGNER GALLERY

designer GALLERY

Each reader featured wins a handy toolkit, kindly donated by Beads Direct

Take inspiration from these lovely designs and share your creations with us – we’d love to see them

FLOWER BRACELET BY JANICE MANNING FROM DORSET

www.beadsdirect.co.uk 01509 218028

MATERIALS • • • • •

elastic band seed beads flower beads purple beads headpins

DENIM TWO-SET BY LUCY HARRIET FROM CHESHIRE MATERIALS • • • •

silver charm bracelet silver and black eyepins seed beads mixed beads

• • • •

lobster clasp black ear wires leaf charms mother-of-pearl charms

TEEN TWO-SET

BY JENNY MILTON FROM SUSSEX MATERIALS • silver charm bracelet with toggle clasp • jump rings • ear wires • silver spacer beads

• • • • •

pink bicones pink flower beads mixed pearl and glass beads headpins skull charms

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CBJ10 pp73 Qrtrs, Eighths_CBJ 29/11/2010 15:12 Page 73

Rosarama Beadcraft Visit our shop in the North East of England for a large selection of beads, Rivolis, Kits, Tools, Findings, Stringing materials and much more. Or order on line quote code CBJ to receive 10% dicount on web orders over £15 excluding p&p. 15 Beech Grove Terrace, Crawcrook/Ryton, Gateshead NE40 4LZ Tel/Fax 0191 413 9111

www.rosarama.co.uk

A world of beads and inspiration Opening hours: Mon - Sat 9 - 5

• Huge range covering all your jewellery-making needs. • Regular workshops run every week in our shop. • Exhibit at bead fairs and craft shows all year round. 188 Burgess Road, Southampton, Hants SO16 3HH Secure online shopping at www.thesouthamptonbeadshop.co.uk Tel: 02380 676163 www.creativebeadsandjewellery.com

CBJ10 pp74 Shopping Love_CBJ 02/12/2010 10:38 Page 74

SHOPPING GUIDE

MINE

The most romantic day of the year is fast approaching. Here are some great products for making your own lovey-dovey pieces

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ENAMELLED SPARKLY HEART CHARM

Stockist: Precious Sparkle Beads www.precioussparkle beads.co.uk Tel: 01738 563264 RRP: £1.89 for a 16” strand

Stockist: The Bead Store www.thebeadstore.co.uk Tel: 01726 844999 RRP: 99p each 2

SILVER-PLATED HEART BEADS

14MM TIERRACAST LOVE CHARM

21MM TRINITY BRASS AMOUR CHARM

Stockist: The Bead Store www.thebeadstore.co.uk Tel: 01726 844999 RRP: 99p each

Stockist: Beads Direct www.beadsdirect.co.uk Tel: 01509 218028 RRP: £1.48

TRINITY BRASS LOVE CONNECTOR

18X16MM VINTAJ BRASS CHERISHED HEART PENDANT

12MM TIERRACAST MADE WITH LOVE CHARM

Stockist: Beads Direct www.beadsdirect.co.uk Tel: 01509 218028 RRP: £1.99

Stockist: The Bead Store www.thebeadstore.co.uk Tel: 01726 844999 RRP: £2.97 each

Stockist: Precious Sparkle Beads www.precioussparklebeads.co.uk Tel: 01738 563264 RRP: £1.70 for 5

SHELL HEART BEADS

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Stockist: The Bead Store www.thebeadstore.co.uk Tel: 01726 844999 RRP: 85p each

TRINITY BRASS VICTORIAN LOVE BIRDS CONNECTOR Stockist: Beads Direct www.beadsdirect.co.uk Tel: 01509 218028 RRP: £1.93

PLATINUM-PLATED HEART CHARM Stockist: B for Beads www.b-for-beads.co.uk Tel: 01352 755532 RRP: 35p each

CBJ10 pp75 Empire Beads_CBJ 29/11/2010 15:05 Page 9

CBJ10 pp76-77 Beadsisters_Beading 01/12/2010 14:57 Page 76

BEADSISTERS

the ins and outs of SARAH AUSTIN DESIGNER

ABOUT SARAH…

CHAIN MAILLE Sarah Austin guides you through European 4-1 weave and how to increase and decrease for bang-on-trend geometric designs TRIANGLES NECKLACE

Sarah’s love of chain maille began with her interest in medieval history, which led her onto starting her own maille shirt. This was abandoned when she discovered coloured jump rings and the fact that you can use chain maille to make jewellery! Sarah runs Beadsisters with her husband, Steve.

TO CREATE Link 12 closed (A) rings onto one black (C) ring. Lay six of the rings at the bottom, overlaying them so that the right-hand ring is uppermost. Starting on the right, link one (A) ring through the end two rings. Link one (A) ring through two rings until you have added five rings in total. Starting on the right, link (A) rings through two

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rings until you have added four rings (see Fig 1, below). When decreasing in European 4-1, each row has one fewer ring than the previous row. Continue adding the rows in this way until you finish with a single ring (Fig 2).

Turn the black (C) ring and position the remaining six rings as in Step 1. Now repeat Steps 2-4 to complete the second triangle. Repeat Steps 1-5 five times so that you have six separate diamond shapes in total. At the bottom of a diamond, add two (A) rings. Repeat with a second diamond. Join the two diamonds, linking one black (D) ring through the two pairs of rings you have just added. Join the remaining diamonds as in

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Step 6. Link the toggle ring and toggle bar to the ends of the necklace using one (B) jump ring. To make the diamond pendant, repeat Steps 1-5 using a black (D) ring rather than a (C) ring. On the last rings of each row in Step 5, add one magatama before closing the ring. Add two magatamas to the single ring at the bottom. To finish the necklace, attach the pendant to the centre black ring of your necklace using two (A) rings.

MATERIALS • 316 x Silvertone jump rings, id 4mm, 0.91mm or non-tarnish silverenamelled copper jump rings, id 4mm, 0.81mm (A) • 2 x Silvertone or non-tarnish silver enamelled copper jump rings, id 3.2mm, 0.81mm (B) • 6 x black anodised aluminium jump rings, id 9.9mm, 1.64mm (C) • 6 x black anodised aluminium jump rings, id 6.8mm, 1.64mm (D) • 10 x black Miyuki magatama drops • silver-plated medium wrapped Tierracast 12x16mm toggle

TOOLS • 2 x chain-nosed or flat-nosed pliers

CBJ10 pp76-77 Beadsisters_Beading 01/12/2010 14:57 Page 77

BEADSISTERS TO CREATE Link five closed (A) rings onto one black (C) ring, overlaying them so that the righthand ring is uppermost (see Fig 1, below). Each row is made up of five (A) rings. Starting on the right, link one (A) ring through the end two rings. Referring to

MATERIALS • 150 x Silvertone jump rings, id 4mm, 0.91mm or nontarnish silverenamelled copper jump rings, id 4mm, 0.81mm (A) • 8 x Silvertone or non-tarnish silverenamelled copper jump rings, id 3.2mm, 0.81mm (B) • 7 x black anodised aluminium jump rings, id 9.9mm, 1.64mm (C) • 2-strand tube clasp

TOOLS • 2 x chain-nosed or flat-nosed pliers

Fig 1, link one (A) ring through two rings until you have added four rings in total. The fifth (A) ring is linked through one ring. Starting on the right, link one (A) ring through the first ring of the previous row. Referring to Fig 2, continue adding rings until you reach the end of the row. Check that you have added five rings. Repeat Step 2, referring to Fig 3. Repeat Step 3. Link one black (C) ring through the last row of rings and add five closed (A) rings before closing. Repeat Steps 1-4 until your cuff is the correct length. Do not add the five closed (A) rings to your last black ring. Join the 2-strand clasp using silver (B) jump rings.

SQUARE CUFF

DIAMOND EARRINGS TO CREATE Link one jump ring through two closed rings and an ear wire. You may need to turn the loop on your ear wire by 90º before you start. Starting on the right, link one ring through the first ring. Link one ring through two rings. Link the last ring through the last ring only (see Fig 1, below). When increasing with European 4-1, the last ring at each end of the row is linked through one ring. Each row will increase by one ring. Continue increasing until you have eight rings in a row (Fig 1). On the last row, add

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WHERE TO BUY All the materials used here are available from www.beadsisters.co.uk; 01776 830352

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MATERIALS • 128 x Silvertone or nontarnish silver-enamelled copper jump rings, id 3.2mm, 0.81mm • 30 x black Miyuki magatama drops • ear wires

TOOLS • 2 x chain-nosed or flat-nosed pliers

one magatama to the end rings. Referring to the instructions for the Triangles Necklace opposite, decrease the diamond, adding one magatama to each end ring and one magatama to the bottom ring. Repeat Steps 1-5 to make the second earring.

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CBJ10 pp78 Bead Annual House Ad_CCX 01/12/2010 17:21 Page 78

On sale NOW! Inside this 164page, special collector’s edition of Creative Beads & Jewellery, you will find everything you need to learn the basics and get started in beading and jewellery making Packed full of techniques and materials including: ❖ Chain maille ❖ Polymer clay ❖ Precious Metal Clay ❖ Lampwork ❖ Seed beads ❖ Swarovski crystals ❖ Czech glass beads ❖ Kiln work ❖ Jewellery for men ❖ Wedding essentials ❖ Watches ❖ And much more!

The perfect annual to help you get the professional look every time!

Available for just £6.99 + p&p from www.practicalpublishing.co.uk/cbja1

CBJ10 pp79 ICHF Comp_CBJ 02/12/2010 10:44 Page 79

COMPETITION

WIN!

Your chance to win two tickets to an upcoming show!

he next Sewing for Pleasure, Hobbycrafts and Fashion, Embroidery & Stitch shows take place at the Birmingham NEC on 24th – 27th March 2011, with visitors getting three shows for the price of one! There are lots of features to look forward to at the show, including: • ‘Above and Below the Waves’ – a 3D walk-through tunnel with knitted beaches, waves and all the creatures that lurk beneath the sea • ‘Afghanistan Inspiration’ – showcasing stunning, vibrant embroidery squares created by the women of Afghanistan • ‘Undoing of the Corset’ – this year’s revealing costume display, which follows the fascinating history and changing fashion of underwear from early female emancipation to the modern day.

Other displays include There will also be a delightful collection a host of on-stand of reproduction and demonstrations each contemporary-designed day, including stamping tea cosies alongside with Ali-Craft, original vintage pieces embossing and from The National pyrography with Needlework Archive, Dremel, and plus a selection of cardmaking with exclusive quilts from Stephanie Weightman the Quilters Guild of on the My Craft Studio the British Isles. stand. Plus the FREE After a successful catwalk shows will be launch at the 2010 hosted each day at show, the Junior Stitch 11am, 1pm and 3pm. Club will return with a With so much going free sewing workshop on at all three shows, for 8-16 year olds, plus you’re guaranteed all visitors can take to have a fun and advantage of the free inspiring day out! programme of Quick Full details of all the & Easy workshops and workshops, talks and talks in both the demonstrations will sewing shows. be on the website two The Hobbycrafts weeks before the shows show will feature a open – www.ichf.co.uk. large workshop area with free Make & Take TIMES sessions with various AND PRICES m exhibitors including en fro The show is op Fiskars, Marabu and .30pm on (5 m 9.30am – 5p Debbi Moore Designs £11 on the : lts du A ). ay Saturd demonstrating Seniors: £10 ; e) nc door (£9 in adva in advance); cardmaking, silk on the door (£8 16 free if painting, and glass Children under an adult, by and porcelain painting. ed ni pa accom the door on Simply book your otherwise £5 e) nc va ad in 4 place on the (£ workshops when you arrive at the show!

We have 20 pairs of tickets to give away, so for your chance to win send your name and address on a postcard to CB&J10 ICHF, Practical Publishing, Unit 1 Adlington Court, Adlington Business Park, Macclesfield, Cheshire SK10 4NL to arrive by 20th January 2011 For more details on ICHF shows or to book tickets, visit www.ichf.co.uk or call the ticket hotline on 01425 277988

NB: By entering this competition, you accept that your details may be passed on to a third party.

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CBJ10 pp80-81 Beads Direct_CBJ 01/12/2010 14:51 Page 80

BEADS DIRECT

ICEqueen SARAH GOODE, MONIKA GADOMSKA & BEATA WINNIK DESIGNERS

This gorgeous wintry ice blue – sometimes known as seafoam – is this season’s answer to the turquoise that was everywhere in 2010. Three Beads Direct designers demonstrate different ways to highlight it by mixing with cool silver

MATERIALS • 9 x light blue frosted 18mm acrylic pearls • 5 x light blue frosted 20mm acrylic pearls • 9 x shiny silver 18mm acrylic pearls • 5 x metal stardust patterned 12mm beads • 5 x silver-plated 14mm filigree beads • 3 x metal brushed effect 20mm beads • 4 x metal stardust patterned 6mm bead • silver-plated eyepins • silver-plated chain

TOOLS • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers • side cutters

WINTER BAUBLES NECKLACE DESIGNED BY BEATA WINNIK TO CREATE Start with a piece of chain approximately 60cm long, in a continuous loop. If the chain is not continuous, join the ends together

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with a jump ring. Thread an eyepin through an acrylic pearl bead and make an eye at the other end. Attach this bead to the chain using the eye. Making sure you leave a 25cm gap for the back of the necklace, add more beads to the chain in the same way. Position them in groups of

2 3

two, three or four beads. Occasionally, add a small dangle to the bottom of a large bead by linking a small bead below it using another eyepin.

Find the centre of the chain, and add a large brushed silver bead. Link an acrylic pearl below it using an eyepin, and dangle two small metal beads below that.

WHERE TO BUY All the materials used here are available from www.beadsdirect.co.uk; 01509 218028 See more of Sarah Goode’s designs at www.pookledo.com

CBJ10 pp80-81 Beads Direct_CBJ 01/12/2010 14:51 Page 81

BEADS DIRECT

TOP TIP

TO CREATE

For an alternative look, why not use a belcher chain, or you could recycle a chain from an old necklace that you no longer wear?

Dismantle the chain, separating the diamond and circle chain links. Attach an eyepin to a circle chain link and add your chosen bead.

Make an eye in the other side of the eyepin, and attach to a diamond chain link. Repeat this process, mixing the acrylic pearls of different sizes, the faceted glass beads,

ceramic pebble beads and brushed silver metal beads as you go. Continue until you have added approximately 25 beads with alternating chain links between them. Check that your necklace fits over your head without a clasp and is your desired length. If not, add or remove a few beads until you get just the right fit.

MATERIALS DIAMONDS & PEARLS NECKLACE DESIGNED BY MONIKA GADOMSKA

• diamond and round link chain • 2 x metal brushed effect 20mm beads • 4 x blue ceramic pebble-look beads • 5 x metal brushed effect 14mm beads • 3 x crystal faceted oval glass beads • 3 x crystal faceted rectangle glass beads • 3 x light blue frosted 25mm acrylic pearls • 2 x light blue frosted 20mm acrylic pearls • 3 x light blue frosted 18mm acrylic pearls • silver-plated eyepins

TOOLS • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers

TO CREATE Cut approximately 20” of beading wire. Use a crimp to attach one end to the silverplated rhinestone clasp. Thread on five 16mm acrylic pearls, followed by one 20mm, one 16mm, one 20mm

1 2

MATERIALS • 6 x light blue frosted 20mm acrylic pearls • 20 x light blue frosted 16mm acrylic pearls • silver-plated rhinestone clasp • 2 x rhinestone rondelles • 3 x rhinestone hourglass beads • crimps • 7-strand beading wire

TOOLS • crimping pliers • side cutters

and one 16mm acrylic pearl. Add a rhinestone rondelle and follow it with a 16mm, a 20mm then a 16mm acrylic pearl. For the centre of your necklace, add three rhinestone hourglass beads, each followed by a 16mm acrylic pearl bead. Mirror the bead pattern in order to create the other side of the necklace. Complete by using a crimp bead to attach the clasp to the other end of the necklace. Thread the end of the wire back through the beads and snip off any excess wire to finish.

GLITZ N’ GLAMOUR NECKLACE DESIGNED BY SARAH GOODE

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CBJ10 pp82-83 SHM promo_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:20 Page 82

Coming soon sewing knitting papercraft soapmaking felting baking recycling candlemaking stationery patchwork stamping cardmaking recipes jewellery beading

painting needlecraft bookbinding photography accessorising 82

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CBJ10 pp82-83 SHM promo_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:21 Page 83

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CBJ10 pp84-87 Puffafish_Beading 01/12/2010 17:03 Page 84

LAMPWORK ADDING SILVER

pieces of RACHEL BISHOP DESIGNER

ABOUT RACHEL…

SILVER

Add shimmering highlights and new textures to your designs by incorporating fine silver wire and silver leaf or foil into your lampwork beads. Rachel Bishop shows you how…

Rachel has been making jewellery for seven years. She fell in love with lampwork beads after seeing Sally Carver`s designs online six years ago, and decided she too wanted to create beads like that.Three years ago, Rachel had a lesson with well-known lampworker Manda Muddimer and she hasn’t looked back since. She gains inspiration for her bead designs from where she lives in the north of Cornwall, between Bodmin Moor and the Atlantic. You can purchase Rachel’s glass beads and jewellery from www.puffafish jewellery.co.uk

PULLING SILVERED IVORY STRINGERS – ESSENTIAL TECHNIQUE Using silvered ivory stringers in your designs is lovely – you can create some wonderful organiclooking beads because of the reaction between the silver and the ivory glass.

TO CREATE Prepare your silver by cutting or

MATERIALS

tearing it into strips and placing a piece on your marver. Heat the rod of ivory until you have a glowing gather the size of a pea. Remove from the flame and let it cool for a couple of seconds. Roll the end of the heated ivory glass

3 1

• dark ivory Effetre glass rod • silver leaf or foil

TOOLS • graphite marver • needle-nosed pliers • didymium glasses

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onto the prepared silver and let the silver wrap around the rod. Burnish the silver into the glass. This means you need to ‘rub’ the silver into the glass by rolling the silver-covered end on the marver so there is no loose silver.

Finally, reintroduce the glass rod into the flame and heat until the end is glowing in a mass the size of a pea. Take the glass from the flame and cool slightly. Using the pliers, pinch the melted glass and pull a stringer. When the stringer has stiffened,

use the pliers to break the stringer away from the rod.

CBJ10 pp84-87 Puffafish_Beading 01/12/2010 17:04 Page 85

LAMPWORK ADDING SILVER TO CREATE Preheat your mandrel and begin by creating a barrel the same length as the lentil you are making. This is easy to check by placing the barrel in the lentil press. Have the piece of foil ready on the marver and, after you have gently reheated your bead, roll it in the silver so it has a couple of layers of foil, ensuring both ends are covered. Burnish the silver, then gently burn off the silver at each end of the bead. Don’t heat the entire bead at this stage or you will end up burning off all the silver. Next, encase the barrel in aqua. Do this slowly and steadily making sure there are no gaps. I wrap the glass around the bead from one end to the other, keeping the bead just beneath the flame. Melt the glass in and build up the bead until you are ready to press it into shape. Take care when adding glass to the bead – remember, you can always add more

glass if needed, but you will be unable to remove it if you add too much. When you have pressed your bead into the desired lentil shape, take your aqua stringer and add raised dots along either side of the bead, leaving a v-shaped channel in the middle. Waft your bead through the flame, taking care not to fully melt in the raised dots. Allow the bead to cool and place it in annealing bubble. Etching your bead will give a fabulous look, but you do need to be aware of the safety issues before you start. It goes without saying that the Etch All solution should be kept out of reach of children or animals and you need to make sure you are working in a well-ventilated area. Etch All is an acid solution that will give you a nasty gradual burn if it comes into contact with your skin. It won’t burn straight away but it will eventually and it’s really painful. Wearing rubber gloves is

essential. Take the lentil bead, paint the v-shaped channel with nail polish and let it dry. The nail

polish will stop this part of the bead being etched. Thread nylon filament wire through the lentil and make a loop for hanging. Place your container on newspaper and pour the etching solution into it. Hang the bead from the mandrel and place over the container so the bead is submerged but not touching the bottom. Leave the bead for 5-10 minutes, then remove from the etching solution. Place the bead into another receptacle containing water and a big teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda – this will neutralise the acid on the bead. Make sure the etching solution is put back

TO CREATE

FROSTED LENTIL NECKLACE Thread a saucer bead, the frosted lentil and another saucer bead onto the headpin. Attach to the hammered silver ring using a wrapped loop. Wrap a dragonfly hug carefully around the wrapped loop. Attach the assembled pendant to the silk cord. To wear, fasten the cord by tying it into a bow.

FROSTED SILVER LENTIL

MATERIALS • • • • • •

frosted lentil bead silver headpin 2 x silver saucer beads short dragonfly hug hammered silver ring hand-dyed silk cord

TOOLS • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers

into its original tub. Rinse the bead. I do this several times and then wash thoroughly with washing-up liquid. Dry and then remove the nail polish to reveal the shiny silver in the middle of the bead.

MATERIALS • transparent light aqua Effetre glass rod • silver foil, cut into a long strip • light aqua thick stringers • Etch All solution • nail polish • bicarbonate of soda • nylon wire

TOOLS • lentil press • prepared mandrel dipped in bead release • didymium glasses • sturdy plastic container • newspaper • rubber gloves • mandrel

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CBJ10 pp84-87 Puffafish_Beading 01/12/2010 17:04 Page 86

LAMPWORK ADDING SILVER 1

MATERIALS • transparent cobalt Effetre glass rod • opaque white glass rod • silvered ivory thick stringers or ivory rod with silvered end • strip of silver foil

TOOLS • prepared mandrel dipped in bead release • mashers • graphite marver • didymium glasses • annealing bubble

MOONLIGHT BEAD TO CREATE Preheat the mandrel in the flame, then make a barrel about

TO CREATE Start by assembling the pendant. Thread the Black Diamond Xilion, the moonlight bead and the Montana Xilion onto the headpin, and make a loop above the beads, attaching it to the bail before wrapping to secure. Cut off any excess wire. Next, form a chain by linking together a round hammered ring, an oval jump ring, a closed round ring, an oval jump ring, an oval hammered ring, an oval jump ring, a closed round ring and an oval jump ring. Repeat the pattern until you have

2.5cm long using the cobalt glass. Next, add more cobalt glass to one end to make it wider, ensuring you keep the whole bead warm to avoid thermal shock in the glass. At the other end of the barrel add wraps of silvered ivory. Because this is a larger focal bead and you need more silvered ivory stringer, I find it easier to use a full rod of ivory already prepared with silver at the end. Melt in a

2 3

three round hammered rings with one at either end of the chain. You will need to make two of these. Attach a round jump ring and a 75mm length of fine silver chain to one of the chains. Fix a jump ring to the other end of the fine chain. Repeat on the second chain and finish with a lobster clasp. To complete the necklace, take a 10cm piece of silver wire and attach it to one of the round hammered rings, make a couple of wraps to secure and cut off any excess wire. Thread

marver if necessary to keep the shape uniform. Keeping the bead nice and hot, but not glowing, take your mashers and squash the barrel to make a flat tubular shape. If you don’t have any mashers, you can squash the bead gently onto the marver. Return the bead to the flame to remove any chill marks. Repeat if needed until you are happy with the shape. Have a thin strip of silver foil ready on

the marver. It is important to use foil and not leaf here because silver leaf will completely burn away and leave no effect. Roll the cobalt part of the bead in the foil and gently burnish in. Reintroduce the bead into the top part of the flame and gently burn away the silver at the top of the bead. This will leave a starry effect on your bead. Finally, take your white rod and heat the end. Place a white

dot in your chosen place on your bead and gently melt in to make a moon. When done and your bead has stopped glowing, place your bead straight into your kiln or annealing bubble.

MATERIALS • • • •

MOONLIGHT NECKLACE

• • • • • •

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•

onto the wire three silver saucer beads, one silver round bead and three more saucer beads. Add the pendant and repeat the pattern

on the other end of the wire, attaching this to the other chain. Again, secure with a wrapped loop and snip off any excess wire.

• • • •

moonlight focal bead silver headpin silver bail Montana 4mm Swarovski Xilion bead Black Diamond 4mm Swarovski Xilion bead 10cm silver half-hard wire 12 x silver 3mm saucer beads 2 x silver 3mm round beads 6 x 20mm round hammered rings 6 x 8.5x11.25mm oval hammered rings 8 x 6mm soldered silver rings 16 x 5mm oval jump rings 5 x 5mm round jump rings silver lobster clasp fine silver chain

TOOLS • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers • side cutters

CBJ10 pp84-87 Puffafish_Beading 01/12/2010 17:04 Page 87

LAMPWORK ADDING SILVER SILVER WRAPPED BEADS

MATERIALS • assorted transparent blue and clear glass rods • fine silver wire (99.9% content) – NOT sterling silver

TOOLS • prepared mandrel dipped in bead release • didymium glasses

DROPS OF SILVER BRACELET

TO CREATE Preheat your mandrel in the flame and make your base bead in your chosen colour. A simple donut shape is fine. Take the bead out of the flame and let it cool slightly. Pick up the silver wire, hold the end on the mandrel and wrap the wire around the bead. Simply burn off where

a wrapped loop. Thread on a silver round bead, a silver wrapped bead and TO CREATE another silver round Cut the half-hard bead. Attach to another silver wire into six oval ring and secure, 5cm lengths. Take one again using a wrapped piece and attach it to an loop. Pick up a dragonfly oval hammered silver hug and carefully ring, securing by making wrap it around one of the wrapped loops. Repeat on the other side. • 6 x silver wrapped beads Continue building • 5 x oval hammered up your bracelet rings until you have used all • 12 x silver 4mm the oval rings and have round beads • 4 x oval jump rings silvered bead links at • 12 x dragonfly hugs either end of the (short length) bracelet. • toggle clasp Finally, attach the • silver half-hard wire parts of the toggle TOOLS clasp to the ends of the • round-nosed and bracelet using the four flat-nosed pliers oval jump rings. • side cutters

MATERIALS

4 5

you want to separate the wire from the bead. Next, bring the bead back into the

flame and gently melt in the silver – most of it will burn away but you will be left with

pretty silvery dots. Cool slightly and place in annealing bubble.

DROPS OF SILVER EARRINGS TO CREATE Thread a 2mm round bead, a 4mm round bead, a silver wrapped bead, a 4mm round bead and a 2mm round bead onto each headpin. Make a wrapped loop on each headpin and attach to the ear wires.

1 2

MATERIALS • 2 x silver wrapped beads • 4 x silver 4mm round beads • 4 x silver 2mm round beads • 2 x silver headpins • silver ear wires

TOOLS • round-nosed and flat-nosed pliers

WHERE TO BUY All the materials in the lampworking projects can be bought from www.tuffnellglass.com Oval hammered rings and dragonfly hugs are available from www.thedragonflycompany.com Round hammered rings are available from www.beadservice.co.uk Silk cord can be purchased online from www.sowzeredesigns.com Swarovski crystals are available from www.jillybeads.co.uk All other materials used here are available from www.palmermetals.co.uk www.creativebeadsandjewellery.com

CBJ10 pp88 What's On_CBJ 01/12/2010 10:31 Page 88

DIARY

what’sON

Image supplied by Beads Unlimited, www.beadsunlimited.co.uk; 01273 740777

8TH JANUARY

23RD JANUARY

5TH FEBRUARY

26TH-28TH FEBRUARY

WIREWORK SPECIAL WITH JULIE ASHFORD

BEADWORK FAIR

ALRESFORD CRAFT FAIR

MAKE IT

Witch Beads, Milton Keynes witch.beads@btconnect.com 01908 311243

The South of England Centre, Ardingly, West Sussex www.beadwork.net

Alresford Community Centre, Alresford, Hampshire 01252 724968

26TH JANUARY 8TH JANUARY INTRODUCTION TO BEADED JEWELLERY

Spoilt Rotten Beads, Haddenham, Cambridgeshire www.spoiltrottenbeads.co.uk 01353 749853

PEARL KNOTTING (BEGINNERS) WORKSHOP

Spoilt Rotten Beads, Haddenham, Cambridgeshire www.spoiltrottenbeads.co.uk 01353 749853

11TH-13TH FEBRUARY CREATIVE STITCHES & HOBBYCRAFTS

The Brighton Centre, Brighton, East Sussex www.ichf.co.uk 01425 277988

15TH-16TH JANUARY

27TH-29TH JANUARY

17TH-19TH FEBRUARY

GEM ‘N’ BEAD SHOW

CRAFT 4 CRAFTERS SHOW

Chepstow Racecourse, Monmouthshire, Wales www.gemnbead.co.uk 07817 511360

Westpoint Arena, Exeter www.craft4crafters.co.uk 0845 308 8303

THE STITCH & CREATIVE CRAFTS SHOW

16TH JANUARY SINCERELY YOURS SHOW

THE STITCH & CREATIVE CRAFTS SHOW

Hinckley, Leicestershire www.sincerely-yours.co.uk 01684 561061

Manchester Central, Manchester www.sccshows.co.uk 01822 617744

3RD-5TH FEBRUARY

20TH-22ND JANUARY

5TH FEBRUARY

THE STITCH & CREATIVE CRAFTS SHOW

BRIDAL JEWELLERY (BEGINNERS) WORKSHOP

Sandown Park Exhibition Centre, Esher, Surrey www.sccshows.co.uk 01822 617744

Spoilt Rotten Beads, Haddenham, Cambridgeshire www.spoiltrottenbeads.co.uk 01353 749853

Towerlands Park, Braintree, Essex www.sccshows.co.uk 01822 617744

20TH FEBRUARY ANTIQUE & COLLECTORS FAIR

Manchester Airport Runway Visitor Park, Manchester www.jlfairs.co.uk 07729 732398

20TH FEBRUARY BEADWORK FAIR

Lighthouse Arts Centre, Poole, Dorset www.beadwork.net

FIVE, Farnborough Airport www.make-it.org.uk 0844 477 1000

The Bead Shop Manchester offers beading classes Monday to Saturday. Classes cover a range of experience levels from total beginners, and include making tiaras, bead weaving, wire wrapping and hair combs. The team can also cater for birthday and hen parties. All the classes are held in the new workshop next door to the shop in Afflecks Palace, 52 Church Street, Manchester M4 1PW, and there is a 10% discount on all purchases made in the shop after the class. To book a class or for more details, ring the shop on 0161 833 9950 or go to www.the-bead shop.co.uk

Bedazzle Beads, Heckmondwike, runs Stay & Make sessions through the week and on Saturday mornings. The team also runs Beginners’ Workshops on Saturday afternoons, covering how to make a necklace, bracelet and a pair of earrings for just £20, which includes the cost of materials. New Monthly Projects are added every month and run on Sundays from 11am. For full details, including of the shop’s upcoming move, visit www.bedazzlebeads.co.uk or call 01924 408273

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CBJ10 pp89 Beads Unlimited_Beading 01/12/2010 10:44 Page 89

BEADS UNLIMITED

lightning GEMMA GRAY DESIGNER

BOLTS

This pretty zigzag necklace combines glittering black and crystal bicones with vibrant pink miracle beads for a striking evening look

MATERIALS • 21 x crystal 8mm bicones • 19 x jet 8mm bicones • 34 x cerise 4mm miracle beads • 48 x black antique eyepins • 50 x black antique 5mm jump rings • 2 x black antique trigger clasps • 15 x black antique 7mm jump rings

TOOLS • multi-pliers

With the cutting part of the pliers, trim 2cm off the end of 21 eyepins. Thread one pin through the eye of a second pin, thread on a crystal bicone and bend the end into a loop. Onto the second eyepin, thread a jet bicone, followed by another eyepin. Make a loop at the very end of the second eyepin so that the new pin rests on the loop made.

ABOUT GEMMA… Gemma is inspired by everything around her, from colour and form to the materials she uses. She has created her own style of jewellery by combining many traditional techniques with contemporary ideas.

Continue adding eyepins and alternatecoloured bicones in this way until you have a length of 11 eyepins. Make a second length of eight eyepins in the same way. Join the end loop of the shorter length to the eyepin at the bottom of the seventh eyepin on the longer length. This will make a length of four beaded eyepins to dangle at the centre of the necklace. To complete the construction of the necklace, attach a trimmed eyepin to each loop on either end of the necklace. Thread on a jet bicone, bend the end into a loop and close. Next, thread a crystal bicone onto an eyepin, trim 1cm above the bead, bend into a loop and attach to the previous eyepin. Repeat on the other side of the necklace.

Add the following beads on eyepins, trimmed 1cm above the bead and bent into a loop, to each side: jet bicone, miracle bead, crystal bicone, miracle bead. Attach a 7mm jump ring to the last eyepin on one side and a 7mm jump ring and trigger clasp to the other. With the roundnosed section of the multi-pliers, open a 5mm jump ring, thread on a 4mm miracle bead, close the jump ring and move the bead to cover the join in the jump ring (this is quite tricky so you may want to practise with a few). Open the loop of an eyepin that sits under the loop of a resting pin, attach a beaded jump ring and close the loop. Repeat for all the loops in the zigzag section of the necklace.

WHERE TO BUY All the materials used here are available from www.beadsunlimited.co.uk; 01273 740777

TOP TIP

TO CREATE

TO MAKE A MATCHING BRACELET... Cut 3cm off 13 eyepins. Construct the bracelet in the same way as the necklace, alternating the colour of the bicones starting with crystal. Add a 7mm jump ring to one end and a 7mm jump ring with a trigger clasp to the other. Attach 12 miracle beads on jump rings to the eyepins in the same way as on the necklace

www.creativebeadsandjewellery.com

CBJ10 pp90-91 Techniques_Beading 01/12/2010 17:17 Page 90

GLOSSARY TECHNIQUES

glossary of

TECHNIQUES

Follow these basic techniques to get started on your projects

OPENING AND CLOSING JUMP RINGS

Grip the jump ring on each side of the 1 opening using pliers â&#x20AC;&#x201C; either two pairs of flat-nosed, or one flat-nosed and one

To open the jump ring, bring one pair 2 of pliers towards you, opening the jump ring like a door rather than pulling

round-nosed pair.

it apart.

Slide your component onto the ring, 3 then reverse the action of your pliers to bring the ends neatly back together.

FORMING A PLAIN LOOP This is the simplest way of creating a loop on a headpin, eyepin or a length of wire, ready for connecting to other components.

Trim the wire end to 1cm above the Grip the tip of the wire using roundRelease the wire, rotate the pliers back 1 2 3 last bead, and make a 90Âş bend close to nosed pliers, and rotate the pliers away towards you and grip the wire again. the bead using a pair of chain-nosed or from you to start curling the wire. Continue rotating the wire and repositioning flat-nosed pliers.

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your pliers until the loop is formed.

CBJ10 pp90-91 Techniques_Beading 01/12/2010 17:17 Page 91

GLOSSARY TECHNIQUES CREATING A WRAPPED LOOP A wrapped loop is stronger than a simple loop, as it is completely closed and is perfect for heavier pendants and for creating links.

Trim the wire end to 3cm above the 1 last bead, then use a pair of chainnosed pliers to make a 90º bend a short

Hold the wire just above the bend Position the bottom jaw of your pliers 2 3 using round-nosed pliers, and wrap the into the curved wire and complete the end of the wire over the top jaw. curve to form a loop. Your wire end

distance above the bead.

Holding the loop flat using chainnosed pliers, grip the wire end using flat-nosed pliers and wind it around the stem to cover the gap between the loop and the bead.

should be back at the 90º angle.

Trim the end of the wire using cutters, and flatten it against the stem using flat-nosed pliers to squash any sharp edges.

Stringing materials, such as cord or ribbon, can be knotted and the knot covered with a clam calotte. Stiffer stringing materials, such as nylon beading wire, should be ﬁnished with a crimp, which can then be covered with a clam calotte.

USING CRIMP PLIERS

Position the crimp bead in the ridged 1 section of your pliers and squeeze to curl the crimp.

FINISHING ENDS

Position the crimp bead back in the 2 oval section of your pliers, ensuring it is sitting vertically, then squeeze gently to compress the crimp to a smooth, rounded shape.

Simply thread a calotte onto your stringing material, tie a knot or ﬁx a crimp at the end, then slide the calotte back up to the end and close the two halves for perfect concealment.

www.creativebeadsandjewellery.com

CBJ10 pp92 Findings_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:19 Page 92

GLOSSARY FINDINGS

fabulous

FINDINGS

From pins and clasps to rings and wire, if you’re new to jewellery making let us guide you through the essentials... ‘Findings’ is the word given to the group of core components needed to make jewellery. They are available in a variety of base and precious metals with a range of finishes; bronze and copper findings are now widely available, and make an interesting alternative to gold and silver. If you are specifically looking for hypo-allergenic findings, niobium and titanium components and wires are ideal and are available in a variety of colour finishes.

CLASPS Used to join the ends of a bracelet or necklace together, either manually or magnetically, clasps are available in a variety of designs. They can be simple wire components or highly decorative pieces that can be an integral part of jewellery design.

EYEPINS Instead of having a ﬂat or decorative head, eyepins have a looped ‘eye’ that enables other components to be attached directly to them.

JUMP RINGS These are simple wire loops that are used to connect different components. Standard jump rings can be opened and closed, and you can purchase jump rings that are soldered closed when added security is required.

THREAD Thread encompasses many different materials, both manmade and of natural origin, and should be chosen according to the beads in your design. Silk is perfect for threading pearls and semi-precious stones, while nylon is more suited to glass beads. You need to be able to tie a knot in the thread that is large enough to stop the beads coming off, so take this into consideration. Flat threading materials such as ribbon and suede lace are perfect for large-holed beads, and can be ﬁnished with coils or box calottes to secure the end to your clasp.

SPLIT RINGS Split rings are similar to jump rings, but with two rotations of wire. They are used when added security is required. Unlike closed jump rings, they can have components added to them in the same way that keys are attached to a key ring.

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EAR WIRES Fish hooks are the standard ear wires used to create dangly earrings, but beaded designs can also be hung from ball and pin earrings, or even clip-on bases for non-pierced ears.

HEADPINS Similar to a standard sewing pin, headpins are commonly used to make dangly elements in a piece of jewellery. Standard headpins have a ﬂattened top, but common variations include ball pins and pins with decoratively beaded ends.

STRINGING MATERIALS: CHAIN There are many different chain designs made from several different metals – or modern polyester for a lightweight but chunky alternative. Use small lengths of chain in a design to link different components, or single links from a large open chain as part of a feature pendant.

WIRE Wire is sold by both length and weight, and is categorised by its gauge (the thickness of the wire). The following table describes the uses for the most common wire gauges. Gauge

Thickness (mm)

Use

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

1.2

Binding, knitting and weaving Threading small, delicate beads. Binding and twisting Wirework with crystals and medium beads Wire-wrapping large beads and creating wire components Bold, chunky wireworked designs

Coloured wires are usually copper with an enamel coating. Tigertail is a speciality twistedsteel beading wire with a nylon coating, while Soft Flex wire is similar but more ﬂexible and less prone to kinking. You can buy solid or plated silver and gold wire, and plated wire is often a good economical option (silver-plated wire won’t tarnish as quickly as solid silver). Memory wire, available in ring, bracelet and necklace sizes, is a stainless steel wire that never loses its shape. It is sold in coils that can be cut into individual rounds, strung with beads and ﬁnished with an end cap.

CBJ10 pp93 Eighths_CBJ 29/11/2010 14:40 Page 93

Unit 32, Basepoint Enterprise Centre Stroudley Road Basingstoke RG24 8UP The Bead Base is Basingstoke’s only dedicated bead shop. We sell beads to suit all budgets. By the string, in packets and individually in our popular pick’n’mix section. We stock tools, findings, threads, guide books and more. Everything you need to make your own fashion jewellery.

T: 07749027634

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Beads, buttons and jewellery making supplies, 5 minutes from the Bullring!

0121 2511413

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CBJ10 pp94 Tools_Beading 01/12/2010 17:20 Page 94

GLOSSARY TOOLS

TOOLS of the trade

Get to grips with your jewellery-making tool kit – we guide you through the essential contents and their applications for professional-looking results

CHAIN-NOSED PLIERS

FLAT-NOSED PLIERS

ROUND-NOSED PLIERS

Also known as snipe-nosed pliers, these have ﬂat jaws on the inside and rounded jaws on the outside and are designed for precision jobs such as creating wrapped loops.

Pliers with round jaws that taper to a point are used for forming loops and curves and are ideal for creating your own jump rings.

These pliers have ﬂat faces on both sides of the jaws and are used for gripping wire and jewellery components while you are working on them, and for bending and ﬂattening wire.

SIDE CUTTERS

CRIMPING PLIERS

MEMORY WIRE CUTTERS

Although chain or flat-nosed pliers will suffice to fix crimp beads, crimping pliers give a neat, professional finish. They are two-stage pliers, specifically designed to crush and fold crimp tubes to fix the position of beads on stringing material and to secure the ends.

These pliers will handle cutting lengths of soft wire and trimming headpins and eyepins. The jaws are angled for a clean, ﬂush cut.

Memory wire cutters are essential if you want to use this sturdy wire for creating jewellery, as it will damage the jaws of regular wire cutters.

NYLON-JAW PLIERS Nylon-jaw pliers are identical to ﬂat-nosed pliers except that the jaws are moulded from plastic and are used to handle soft precious-metal wires and components that could be easily marked or dented.

WIRE-WORKING TOOLS If you are keen to create your own wire components, a chasing hammer and steel stake are essential for ﬂattening and workhardening (toughening) wire shapes. Chasing hammers are lightweight and easy to handle, and steel stakes on which to hammer your work have an ultra-smooth surface to eliminate the chance of marking your pieces.

BEADING TWEEZERS A pair of beading tweezers is handy for managing tiny seed beads and unpicking knots in stringing materials.

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CBJ10 pp95 Banners etc_CBJ 30/11/2010 11:49 Page 95

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CBJ10 pp98 Next Issue_CBJ 01/12/2010 17:16 Page 98

NEXT ISSUE

coming

NEXT TIME Here’s a preview of what you’ve got to look forward to in Issue 11...

TREND ALERT! More of the hottest looks for 2011

TASSELLED EFFECTS Contemporary ideas with chain and cord

MATERIAL GIRL Fabulous designs incorporating fabric

On sale 20th January 2011

GOING GREEN We look ahead to spring Creative Beads & Jewellery is available from newsagents and through beading, jewellery and craft stores. If you want to guarantee that you don’t miss an issue, you can ask your local store to place a regular order for you. Once set up, your copy will be held for you to collect. Simply complete this form and hand it in at your nearest bead or craft store or newsagent. Dear Store Owner Please reserve me a copy of Creative Beads & Jewellery TITLE Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms ............................... First Name............................ Surname.......................................................................................... Address............................................................................................ ........................................................................................................ ........................................................................................................ Postcode ...........................................Tel .........................................

FROM SMALL SEEDS Beautiful beaded beads – we show you how

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CBJ10 pp99 IBC Tambrook Beads_Beading 26/11/2010 09:39 Page 99

Colours inspired by nature... Quality inspired by pride... TOHO Beads! Tambrook Bead & Trade, supplying a bead store near you. Wholesale only. Please visit www.tambrookbeads.com to see our complete line of TOHO beads www.tambrookbeads.com • inquiry@tambrookbeads.com • 1503.826.0878

CBJ10 pp100 OBC_Beading 26/11/2010 09:58 Page 100