manoeuvre
G R A D U A T I O N
P R O J E C T
BATCH 2010 - 2014 TEXTILE DESIGN PROGRAMME NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY CHENNAI
No.65 Cauvery Layout Tavarakere Bangalore 560 029 INDIA E-mail: info@swadeshisilks.com • Website: www.swadeshisilks.com
The Swadeshi Silks Image courtesy: Zimmer&Rohde 2013 fall collection
No part of this document may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means - electronic, or otherwise, without the prior permission from the author. All rights reserved. Author: Pranavasthitha pranavasthitha@gmail.com National Institute of Fashion Technology Batch of 2014
AC K N O W L E D G E M E N T
I would like to express my special thanks of gratitude to Mr. Sunil Gupta, Partner, Swadeshi Silks Ms. Priya Dhar - Design Head, Swadeshi Silks, Ms. Deepa & Ms. Pavithera - Textile Designers , Swadeshi Silks for their valuable design inputs and assisting me during the tenure of my Graduation Project under Swadeshi Silks. I am also thankful to Mr. B. Karthikeyan, Associate Professor - Department of Textile Design for his co-operative support and guidance. I would also like to thank Mr. G. Krishnaraj , Centre Co-ordinator, Dept. of Textile Design for encouraging me throughout the project. I would also like to thank my freinds & parents for their incredicle patience and inspired me constantly. Thank you.
The initial few days during the project, I made myself familiar with the kind of products that had been created in the past and at the same time, venturing out for a photography exercise that let me broaden my vision and perspective enabling me to believe and admire the design aesthetics in the things we see around us, This inturn formed the ground for the development of my inspiration boards. Also, I thoroughly understood the company’s way of working, which helped me a lot during my remaining weeks of the project. Following this process, Designs were developed maintaining the core value of the material and the technique. The product developed include fabrics for window treatment and Upholstery for the target clients visiting Proposte. The project was undertaken in an industrial environment with its own constraints and limitations. While creating each design I had to keep in mind the costing of the fabric, the materials used and also the process followed. Working in an export house helpednme understand the functioning of the organization. It exposed me to a new work culture,made me aware of the global market demands and marketing strategies. I also had the privilege of meeting niche buyers like Mr.Andreas Zimmer of Zimmer & Rohde and representitives from Casamance and Nobilis. I had the opportunity to see the buyers reactions to my designs. By the end of my graduation project, I got to learn about business realities and more importantly an enriching experience in terms of recognizing my own strengths and weaknesses. It helped me understand where I truly channelize my passion into.
SYNOPSIS
M
anoeuvre documents my journey through the graduation project. I have completed my graduation project in Swadeshi Silks, Which is based in Bangalore. The project was carried out for a period of eighteen weeks during which I have developed 4 collections. Each collection was developed with respect to the clients requirement and also to fit the academic requirement.
Image courtesy: Casamance
Swadeshi Silks TM
ABOUT
S
wadeshi Silks is a Bangalore-based company manufacturing exclusive silk furnishings and other fabrics made from natural fibres. The products include jacquards, dobbies, handloom fabrics, embroideries and prints. They also have an extensive range of plains—dupions and taffetas. They cater to buyers in Australia, Germany, New Zealand, South Africa. Spain, the United Kingdom, United States and Middle East. It is managed by Mr. Sunil Gupta and Mr. Sushant Gupta, sons of founder Mr. N.N. Gupta. The company was established in 1983
in Bangalore by Mr. N.N. Gupta, with a set-up of eight handlooms manufacturing plains, stripes and checks in silk, primarily for the apparel industry. In about a decade he was joined by his sons and the business was expanded. In 1995 powerlooms were added to the infrastructure, and the range of work gradually grew to encompass the furnishings industry. In 2003, given the positive response to this new move, a fully equipped mill was established with machinery and electronic looms for the production of silk
furnishing fabrics. Simultaneously in 2003 a design studio was also set up, aimed at consistent design development to cater to the company’s growing clientèle in India and abroad. In the years since then, the capacity of the production units has doubled, with the addition of modern facilities. The Swadeshi Group employs about 100 people in Bangalore at its head office, powerloom factory and at its mill on Sarjapur Road. The company currently has a turnover of Rs 300 million per annum.
T h e Swadeshi design studio is equipped with modern CAD facilities. The emphasis is on design development, facilitated by a continuous exchange of ideas between designers and design teams abroad and in India. Visits to international fairs and interactions with design studies worldwide are encouraged to allow for exposure to the global market, as well as a nuanced understanding of the demands of a varied customer base. This also plays a critical role in visual research and colour study—very important aspects of the design process.
DESIGN STUDIO
PRODUCTS
include jacquards, dobbies, handloom fabrics, embroideries and prints. Also an extensive range of plains dupions and taffetas.
All categorised under
AND
CURTAINS DRAPERIES
SI LK C UR TA IN S FO R A TO UC H O F LU X UR Y
Silk curtains are a feature which many of us hope we can one day enjoy in our own home. Silk is a natural fibre and has been used for thousands of years for clothing and furnishings. In spite of the development of man-made materials, silk is as much in demand today as it has ever been. They are light and reasonably hard wearing. The main attraction is in their looks. Their slightly creased look combined with their light reflecting properties sets them apart from all other fabrics. Silk curtains silk drapes show a richness which is not found in other furnishing fabrics. Silk drapery fabric is one of the easiest ways to create a more elegant decor to any room of your home. Silk has always been regarded a premier fabric and silk fabric is regarded universally as the “Queen of All Fabrics.� They give a spectacular look and are a perfect niche accesory in the home decor section. Pure elegance and class!
MANUFACTING PROCESS
YARNS Dupion : Douppioni Silk is a lustrous silk often woven from two different colors of threads, so that it shimmers or changes color in the light. Dupioni(also referred to as Douppioni) is a plain weave crisp type of silk fabric, produced by using fine thread in the warp and uneven thread reeled from two or more entangled cocoons in the weft. Dupion Silk is usually imported from China. Dupioni may be embroidered in any manner desired. Linen: Linen is a bast fiber. Flax fibers vary in length from about 25 to 150 mm (1 to 6 in) and average 12-16 micrometers in diameter. There are two varieties: shorter tow fibers used for coarser fabrics and longer line fibers used for finer fabrics. Flax fibers can usually be identified by their “nodes� which add to the flexibility and texture of the fabric. The cross-section of the linen fiber is made up of irregular polygonal shapes which contribute to the coarse texture of the fabric. Cotton: The fibers are sent to a textile mill where carding machines turn the fibers into cotton yarn. The yarns are woven into cloth that is comfortable and easy to wash but does wrinkle easily. Cotton fabric will shrink about 3% when washed unless pre-treated to resist shrinking. 2/40s cotton is predominantly used in wefts in most cases. Viscose: Viscose Rayon has a silk-like aesthetic with superb drape and feel and retains its rich brilliant colors. Its cellulosic base contributes many properties similar to those of cotton or other natural cellulosic fibers. Rayon is moisture absorbent (more than cotton), breathable, comfortable to wear, and easily dyed in vivid colors.It does not build up static electricity, nor will it pill unless the fabric is made from short, low-twist yarns. Spun viscose: Viscose yarns that have the exact characteristics that of cotton and staple yarns which are twisted. Polyester: Polyester is a strong man made yarn that is resistant to
stretching and shrinking. It is also Resistant to most chemicals and dries quickly. Crisp and resilient when wet or dry. It is used in warp and the embroidery floss in 120Dn. 30D ploy warp, 80D poly are used mostly. Organza Silk: Silk Organza is a sheer, thin open-weave fabric that is heavier and crisper than silk gauze. It has a smooth, flat finish, is strong and durable, and gets its stiffness from tightly twisted yarns. Often used as the base fabric for embellished fabrics. Silk (Kora) : Kora silk, is one variant of silk which is known for smooth and soft texture. Chattisgarh is one of the producers of kora silk fabric. Kora silk is beautifully lending itself into dyeing and natural dyes are used. Kora silk fabric dyed in exclusive colors is designed beautifully in both handloom and power loom. Thy are used in 27Denier. SIlk (Ply) : Filature yarns of 20/22 denier is used. These are used in 2ply, 3ply and 4 ply combinations. Acrylic: It is lightweight, soft, and warm, with a wool-like feel. It can also be made to mimic other fibers, such as cotton, when spun on short staple equipment. Lurex: Lurex is the registered brand name for a type of yarn with a metallic appearance. The yarn is made from synthetic film, onto which a metallic aluminium, silver, or gold layer has been vaporised.
Warp
Weft
Kora silk 2 ply 20/22 warp 3 ply 20/22 warp 4 ply 20/22 warp 4 ply cotton warp 30D Poly warp 80D Poly warp
Silk 3ply 6ply 8ply 12ply Cotton 2/20s 2/30s Linen - 40s and 50s Viscose 300D Spun Viscose - 2/40s Acrylic Lurex
Creeling
Warping
Wind ing
Feeding the file
E X I S TA N T C U R TA I N FA B R I C S
MARKET SURVEY Swadeshi silks caters to a very niche market in U.K and U.S markets where the fabrics are accepted by editors and retailers. They participate in the Proposte Trade fair that happens At Villa Erba in Cernobbio (Como). It is normally a World Preview of Furnishing Fabrics and Curtains for an extremely niche market. The European customers mostly like bigger scales in design compared to the US market. Europe has a better market for Embroideries and prints compared to that of U.S market. Swadeshi provides fabrics to over 16 parent companies under which 60 companies classify themselves.
CLIENTELE
Swadeshi SIlks is a 100% export company, which widely caters to a niche market both in European countries and united States of America. Apart from the regular clients they expand their market by taking part in international fairs, where they meet new buyers who are often impressed and excited with the unique product range and innovative use of techniques. They have developed an extrordinary number of printed, embroidered and woven fabrics which have been used as an emsemble in a lot opulent collections. This has encouraged most buyers to place immediate orders, these orders or agents also play a large role in diversifying clientele. One of the companies philosophies is that it believes working with differentc hannels and not putting everything under one roof. Each center has a specific nature of work which functions in stages. The inter connectivity among them completes the process of final product making. All the channels have their own responsibility. The system works on order basis where the stipulated quantity of order is given to the centers and they produce it in required time frames. This helps the system to function smoothly. Swadeshi exhibits its work in renowned international shows and fairs wgicg aides in widening its market across the Globe. Swadeshi's clients have different fabric requirements catering for different purposes. Though a bulk of it is usually done for curtaining, the end uses serve many such as upholstery and bedding in rare cases. Swadeshi's main clients are Zimmer & Rohde group, Romo group, Casamance, Nobilis, Sanderson group, Pollack, Beacon Hill, Jab gorup, Colefax group and Cole & Son.
I N TE R N AT IONAL FAIRS PROPOSTE At Villa Erba in Cernobbio (Como) proposte is inaugurated on the 7th of May 2014 which will be the 22nd edition of Proposte, World Preview of Furnishing Fabrics and Curtains. Europe's leading home textile manufacturers will be exhibiting their collections at a show focussed entirely on fostering business and international contacts. Only European manufacturers of furnishing fabrics, curtains and trimmings are admitted to exhibit at Proposte. 6151 textile operators visited Proposte 2013:The exhibition confirms its international character: growth in visits from Australia, China, Japan, India, Turkey. In 1993, a large number of the most qualified Italian furnishing textiles industrialists promoted the PROPOSTE fair. What was needed was a specialised and selective fair, which, starting from the consolidated MADE IN ITALY, would highlight the quality and professionalism of MADE IN EUROPE. SPECIALISED because the exhibitors are exclusively direct producers of furnishing and curtain fabrics. SELECTIVE because these exhibitors share at least three characteristics: the qualification of their companies and products, their professional fairness, their commitment to research and experimentation in the field of aesthetics and in that of technologies. moOD (DECOSIT) MOOD Brussels Residential & Contract, worldwide the most important upholstery event, equals quality and professionalism. The exhibitors provide a superior presentation of internationally representative and carefully selected products from their own collections, with quality and added-value as a focus. All -participating companies are export oriented, a fact that gives an extra dimension to the global character of DECOSIT BRUSSELS Residential & Contract. Exhibitor Profile Exhibitors include manufacturers from all sectors of the textile machinery industry, including spinning, nonwovens, weaving, knitting, dyeing and finishing, garment making, testing, software as well as dyestuffs and chemicals.
CLIEN T ST UDY & COMPA RIT IV E ANALYS I S
Sl. no.
Client
1.
Zimmer + Rohde
U.S U.K Europe ✓
Ardecora
✓ Italian
Etamine
French
Hodsoll Mckenzie Travers Warner Fabrics 2.
Pierre Frey
Braquenié
Geometric
Floral
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓ ✓ French
✓
✓
Wovens
Prints
Colours/ Style
✓
✓
Subtle
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓ ✓
✓ ✓
Bright Sensual
✓
✓
Subtle & Neutral
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
Blend of subtle and eclectic
✓
✓
Subtle Calicos
✓
Multicolour
Tassinari & Chatel
✓
Sonia Rykiel Maison
✓
Jean Paul Gaultier
✓
✓ ✓
✓ ✓
✓
Eclectic Luxurious Subdued colous
Bright and youthful
✓
✓
Subtle colours
✓
Subtle
✓ ✓
Subtle with Accent
✓
✓ ✓
✓
✓
French
Boussac Lelievre
Abstract/ Stylized
✓
Fadini Borghi
3.
Traditional Damasks
✓ ✓
Bohemian colours & Bright Tonic
✓
✓
4.
Elitis
5.
Nobilis
6.
Kravet Group
✓
Lee Jofa
✓
Groundworks
✓
✓
Threads
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
GP & J Baker
7.
✓
✓
Urban, Bold & innovative
✓
✓
✓
✓
Chic & elegant
✓
✓
Rich and diverse
✓
✓
Modern colours
✓
✓
Blithfield
✓
✓
✓
Mulberry Home
✓
✓
✓
Monkwell
✓
✓
Brunschwig & Fils
✓
✓
Alexa Hampton
✓
✓
Cole & Son
✓
✓
Casamance
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
Luxury tones ✓
Subtle sensual colours
✓
Subtle accent colours
✓
Subtle accent colours
✓
Bright sensual colours
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
Versatile colours Bright sensual colours
Emeralds, Coppers & Warm reds
8.
Colefax & Fowler
✓
Jane Churchill
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓ ✓
✓
Natural Aquas & subtle shades of red.
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
Bright sensual colours
✓
✓
✓
✓
Bling, vibrant colours
✓
✓
Subtle tones of blue
✓
✓
Subtle sensual colours
✓
✓
✓
✓
Practical Neutrals
✓
✓
Subtle sensual colours
Manuel Canovas
✓
Larsen
✓
9.
Cowtan & Tout
✓
10.
Romo
✓
✓
Kirkby Design
✓
✓
Mark Alexander
✓
✓
VillaNova
✓
✓
Zinc
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
Monochromatic
✓
✓
Spray Dyed effect
✓
✓ ✓ ✓
✓
✓
✓ ✓ ✓
Black Edition
✓
✓
✓
11.
Pollack
✓
✓
✓
12.
Duralee
✓
✓
✓
✓
Highland Court
✓
✓
✓
✓
B.Berger
✓
✓
✓
✓ ✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
Subtle natural hues
Vibrant & Classic
Nuanced Colour palette Vivid Hues & Accents
✓
Bright sensual colours Shades of natural hues.
✓
Beacon Hill
14.
Jab Anstoetz
✓
✓
Soleil Bleu
✓
✓
Chivasso
✓
✓
Gardisette
✓
✓
Rubelli
✓
15.
Donghia
✓
✓
Subtle tones of blue
✓
✓
✓
Natural hues with tones.
✓
✓
✓
Vivacious colours
✓
✓
Subtle Neutrals
✓
13.
✓
✓
✓
✓
Subtle sensual colours
✓
✓
✓
Rich eclectic colours
✓ ✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
Dominique Kieffer
✓
✓
✓
Armani Casa
✓
✓
✓
16.
Sahco
✓
✓
✓
17.
Sanderson
✓
Zoffany
✓
✓
Morris & Co.
✓
✓
Harlequin
✓
Scion
✓
✓
✓
✓ ✓
Blues Grays and rich ✓
✓ ✓
Natural hues and accents Shades of blue and black Bright sensual colours
✓ ✓
✓
✓
✓ ✓
Natural colour palette Rich rones of grays and bronze.
✓
✓
✓
Subtle gray and beige tones,
✓
Blues and rich indigos. Savvy and bright colours
=
Old meets new, minimalism meets drama and handmade meets technology, as the Resene Curtain Collection amps up our indoor spaces. Bold florals cater to traditional tastes while stylised patterns offer youthful energy. Fabrics glow with a subtle sheen, and earthy natural textiles combine with metallic elements to provide a contemporary feel. Alongside the metallic look we are also seeing iridescent and pearlised finishes to fabrics.Then we are getting a combination of something quite raw with precious elements – prints on hemp or an earthy fabric with a metallic element to it. Something that you’d consider quite luxurious – the metallic – with something quite earthy like hemp. While decorative hardware has been dominated by stainless steel for some time, there’s a move towards gold and copper. We’re already seeing it in hard furnishings – copper stools, guilded mirrors and gold products – now it’s merging
into our home fabrics. For a long time gold was a big no-no, But the shade of gold coming through works well with pastels, which are also big at the moment. Fashion feeds textiles and home furnishing, and home furnishing feeds back into fashion. It’s push and pull between what’s happening in fashion and then what happens in the home textile market. The washed floral designs that have been big in fashion recently are now coming through in furnishing and drapery fabrics. So, too, are large-scale prints, the scale of the print getting bigger and bigger. As society increases its obsession with must-have technological gadgets, we are seeing a desire to counterbalance that with nature. Native and exotic flowers, leaves and trees and organic objects are big trends. That follows on from our incessant craze for crafts and handmade techniques, and it’s a growing trend in fabrics and home décor too. New wallpapers have handdrawn elements, as do many textiles. There is this nice hand-painted quality to all the prints and wovens. They’re not so precise as when you design on the computer so that it has a nice soft natural look to it.
C U RTA I N T R E N D S 2 0 1 4
Y
ou saw them trickle down from the runway into consumer’s wardrobes – now they’re seeping into our home furnishings. Large-scale florals, bold prints, metallics and eco-friendly fabrics are the hottest trends in curtaining for 2014.
Trends & Colour Analysis of curtains and upholstery based on the study: 1. Gossamer Sheers, Embossed or printed patterns 2. Velvet is a continuing trend 3. Sheers in dramatic colours, combining two tones of sheers 4. Longer, loser pleats are in 5. Draperies with Grommets 6. Draperies that are floor length 7. Sense of whimsy in patterns 8. Creative hardware in tiebacks 9. Curtains ispired by Ikat Graphics, creates instant impact in your home decor
WGSN GLOBAL COLOUR ANALYSIS AW 2014-15
COLOURS OF THE SEASON The seasons message is “ Keep Moving ”. A time for change, to find the unseen. Freedom of thoughts and action is presented. Hence, the colors hits for the season are: DARKS : raisin red, dark indigo, lead grey, shale grey, hunter green, lapis blue BRIGHTS : diode pink, chartreuse , crimson red, jade green, dark camel, almond DULLS : mineral grey, chilled blue, off white METALLICS : grey, orangish brown, greenish yellow
SUMMARISING ANALYSIS This season is a season that elicits change and reflection.Get moving. Turn your back on mediocrity. Push the boundaries even atthe risk of failure. The season is all about change. After a period of unease and longing for better days, we realize that we are no longer at a standstill. We embrace generosity. Empathy is a driving force. And an interplay between knowledge and intuition will lay the path for new inventions. We wish to create iconic, timeless, and narrative designs that is a testament to a time when we finally acknowledge that the only endless resource is our creativity. Each season we are in search of right balance to spark, please and surprise. This season a series of fresh statement is listed- clear cluster that shows shine, blur, energy, rawness, complexity and yet minimal. Realism is sparked with a touch of abstract and updated by technology to innovate the well known and proven. Texture is big in fashion fabrics and wallpapers and it’s something that’s coming through in curtaining too. The
fabrics need not be bright yellows or oranges to be bold – an understated bold suits our relaxed lifestyles. Textures with slight variations stand out on their own. Luxury fabrics are always part of the curtaining trend – opulent, ornate fabrics with bold patterns and sumptuous textures. The trend remains popular, but this year’s trends also include sheers – luxury with a twist. Sparkle and glamour cash in on subtlety, playing an understated roll in contemporary design. Sheer curtains introduce a fine metallic stripe while Resene Pause is notable for its slubs, a natural knobbly texture similar to raw silk and linen. Richly designed graphic floral with all the depth and drama of a European-inspired jacquard fabric is compleely in this season. Eclectic, personal interiors will keep gaining popularity, though equilibrium will shine through with paints that match fabrics.
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
o design and develop a series of six curtaining and upholstery fabrics that cater to the European market. The techniques involved in making of these curtaining and upholstery fabrics are weaving and embroidery. The collection is for the A/W 2014 season. Design direction is based on WGSN trends study.
BRIEF
T
The mood of the collection focusses on ‘Thinking and Strategy’. Graphic geometric forms are derived from the inspiration board that is a pictorial representation of all the indoor board games that give an absolute idea of the varied silhouettes and forms indoor games, puzzles and board games can offer. The theme of the collection is called ‘Stratagem’ which means a plan or scheme, especially one used to outwit an opponent or achieve an end. Such a theme would emphasize on keywords such as focus, balance and symmetry that form the basic foundation for the design development.
The colours are drawn from WGSN where jewel tones are in for the season. A lot of fuschia, lemon yellow and tones of cyans add accent and value to the regular subtle colours. Opulent rich colours of golds, bronze are also used to create the amience for the theme.
CO L L E C T I O N 1 'STRATAGEM'
The yarns to be used for the collection will be linen, acrylics, silk, cotton and 120 dn polyester(for embroidery). The use of such yarns also creates a rich opulent look. The design development and structure would mostly emphasise on making the designs three dimensional in nature as it satisfies the current market requirements also adhering to the character of the theme and inspiration.
INITIAL SKETCHES
'STRATAGEM'
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
'STRATAGEM'
INITIAL SKETCHES
The checker board pattern with circles repeating alternately.
Circles connecting concentric squares. Concentric circles repeating in areas between.
Circles with rectangles following up. there is a half drop in pattern.
Distanced circles connecting into squares.
Filled elipses connected with lines and diagonal lines cutting across.
Circles encasing the squares follow on with negative and positive effect.
Circles and rectangles containing circles repeating alternatingly with rectangles.
Concentric circles being connected via lines.
Overlapping circles spread over.
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Positive and negative band of circles being separated by vertical thick lines,
'STRATAGEM'
Squares being connected via the lines that fall vertically.
INITIAL SKETCHES
Circles connecting with lines all over the surface.
INITIAL SKETCHES
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Solid circles with the striped effect breaking the flow.
Pinstriped lines all through a surafce.
The blocks overlapping to form stripes.
Circles stamped on a surface of boxed blocks.
Solid circles ascended all over the surface.
Pinstriped effect with interventions of solid rectangles.
The dots swivel and form a spiral to give in to a huge bob and continue ahead.
The broken line concept, where there is a solid circle that fits between the broken lines.
Maze sort of pattern with circles apprearing in negative areas.
The dots ascend and descend in the form of steps to create a geometric ogee sort of structure.
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
The surface turns out to be a cylinderal arrangement overlapping with its lid pinstriped.
INITIAL SKETCHES
Several blocks of pinstripes overlapping one over the other.
S E L E C T E D CO N CE P T S
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
S E L E C T E D CO N CE P T S
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
S E L E C T E D CO N CE P T S
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
SELECTED SKETCHES
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
F I N A L L A Y O U T & CO L O U R W A Y S
CO L O U R W A Y S
The disection in the pattern surrounding the linear area alternately creates an element of interest and staggers a very graphic message.
Weft faced satin - colour 1
Weft faced rib - colour 2 Weft faced rib - colour 3
Warp faced satin - colour 4
DECIDING THE LOOK
SIMULATION
Weft faced satin - colour 1 A weft faced satin could help in creating a 3D effect over the base fabric’s warp faced satinweave. Weft raced satin - colour 2 A pick and pick rib weave in the specific areas could give the hazy effect.
Design name: Brace Technqiue: Jacquard weaving Number of hooks : 2640 Fabric width : 130 cm
Repeat size : 50 cm X 32.5 cm Number of repeats : 4 Hooks/repeat : 660 Yarns: Silk, Cotton and Viscose
Warp faced satin - colour 4 Warp faced satin would be effective in achieving the difference in colour in comparison to the weft faced satin.
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Weft faced satin - colour 3 A pick and pick rib weave in the specific areas could give the hazy effect.
CO L L E C T I O N 1 'STRATAGEM'
Area C Area B
Area A
weft order:
WEAVES
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Spun viscose - pink Cotton spun viscose - orange Area D
Area A
warp: 20/22s silk
Area D
WEAVES
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Area C Area B
WEAVE SIMULATION
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Design : Brace Yarn cost : Silk = 3400/kg Cotton = 800/kg Spun Viscose = 1000/kg Based on gsm : Silk + Cotton + Spun Viscose 224 + 104 + 140 468/ Dyeing cost: 80/Weaving machinery cost: 65/Total Manufacturing Cost : 613/Overheads (20%) : 133/-
(613 + 133 = 746)
Profit (7%) : 52..5/Total Fabric Cost/meter : 798.5/-
Finish : Loom Finish
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
WARP = 3x20-22 Silk WEFT = 2/40s cotton 2/40s SpunViscose REED = 100s Reed, 4/Dent E.P.C = 78 P.P.C = 30[60] RATIO = 1 : 1 : 1 FINGERS = 1) 2/40s Gm cotton design 2) 2/40s SpunViscose backing WEIGHT (Per meter) WARP = 3x20-22 66.00 gms WEFT = 2/40s Gm cotton 130.00 gms = 2/40s SpunViscose 140.00 gms 336.00 gms CONSTRUCTION 19% Silk 39% Cotton 42% Viscose
COSTING (per meter)
S P E C I F I C A T I O N & CO S T I N G
Name: Brace
CO L O U R W A Y S
F I N A L L A Y O U T & CO L O U R W A Y S
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
The idea of having eliptical strokes inside an ogee gives a very intersting pattern especially in half drops. It reflects a bold look.
Area A - Gray Area
Area B - Black Area Area C - Base Fabric
DECIDING THE LOOK
SIMULATION
Area A - Gray Area The Gray area is visualised as a velvet. The gray area has the same coloured pile that fades into the black. Area B - Thick black embroidery that fills area B
Design name: Flux Technqiue: Embroidery Base Fabric: 100% Linen Fabric width : 130 cm
Repeat size : 40cm X 65cm Number of repeats : 4 Stitches/repeat : 140463 Yarns: 120 Dn Polyester
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Area C - 100% Natural Linen A 100% linen fabric serves as a backing
DESIGN NAME: FLUX DESIGN STRUCTURE DETAILS REPEAT SIZE vertical (cms) 40 horizontal (cms) 65 REPEATS IN LENGTH 2.5 REPEATS IN WIDTH 3 TOTAL NO OF REPEATS/Lr.Mtr.130cms 7.5 NUMBER OF STITCH DETAILS Design Area Design Area Stiches 40/65 Repeat Total No Of Stiches Per Mtr
SPECIFICATIONS
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Repeat 140463 1053473 Finishing/calendering nil No of Colors in Design 2 COLOUR DETAILS Shade# Brand Dinear col#1 Kora Natesh 120 col#2 255D Siera 120
THREAD USAGE Design Area Repeat SIZE Per Repeat Per Meter 100 Mtr 120 Dinear Total Boxes Caluclation /100 Mtr
CO S T I N G
YARN CONSUMPTION DETAILS
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
40/43 7.5 934 7005 700500 7500 93 40/65 5 0 0 0 7500 0 40/65 2.5 0 0 0 7500 0 EMB COSTING DETAILS Total No of Stiches/mtr Divided By 1000 At Paisa Total amount Rate For 1000 Stiches @ 0.850ps 1053473 1053.473 0.85 895.45 Rate For 1000 Stiches @ 1.35rs 0 0 1.35 0 Total Emb Cost/mtr 895.45205 Additional Charges Applique consumpition /Fabric Cost 0 Extra Thread Consumption 0 Trimming Cost 0 velvet Cutting Cost 150 Total Emb Cost 1045.45205
S E L E C T E D CO N CE P T S
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
 
The insides of the strokes are empty, this is the starting point.
These ogees which are white stroked are attached with a broken line.
The ogees are encolsed with strokes, led on by dotted lines.
The ogees are are partially strokes leading on by dots.
The broken line is attached alternatively to ogees eithin one another.
The strokes are outlined and attached with a line that runs.
The negative ogee is held on with a straight thick string.
The negative of the ogee is followed by dotted lines.
The positive outline is held on by dotted lines.
The positive outline is held by unbroken lines.
 
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
The negative of the ogee is joined with dotted lines.
S E L E C T E D CO N CE P T S
A small encasement is inside the outline strokes, led on with the running dots.
LAYOUT INTERVENTION
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
The ogee are set in striaght repeat.
The ogees have broken strings and set in half drop.
The ogees are connected in half drop with wavy lines,
LAYOUT INTERVENTION
The lines are cunnectd in arcs to the ogee outlines.
The ogees are in half drop. This form works the best aesthetically.
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
The lines are broken but all of them are in straight repeat.
CO L O U R W A Y S
F I N A L L A Y O U T & CO L O U R W A Y S
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
The idea of having eliptical strokes inside an ogee gives a very intersting pattern especially in half drops. It reflects a bold look.
Area A - White Area
Area B - Black Area
DECIDING THE LOOK
SIMULATION
Area A - White Area The embroidery stitches would come in the areas. Area A - Black Area The area which has the linen base fabric.
Repeat size : 40cm X 43 cm Number of repeats : 8 Stitches/repeat : 140463 Yarns: 120 Dn Polyester
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Design name: Stringed Technqiue: Embroidery Base Fabric: 100% Linen Fabric width : 130 cm
DESIGN NAME: STRINGED DESIGN STRUCTURE DETAILS REPEAT SIZE vertical (cms) 40 horizontal (cms) 43 REPEATS IN LENGTH 5 REPEATS IN WIDTH 8 TOTAL NO OF REPEATS/Lr.Mtr.130cms 8 NUMBER OF STITCH DETAILS Design Area Design Area Stiches 40/65 Repeat Total No Of Stiches Per Mtr
SPECIFICATIONS
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Repeat 75437 565778 Finishing/calendering nil No of Colors in Design 1 COLOUR DETAILS Shade# Brand Dinear col#1 Kora Natesh 120
THREAD USAGE Design Area Repeat SIZE Per Repeat Per Meter 100 Mtr 120 Dinear Total Boxes Caluclation /100 Mtr
CO S T I N G
YARN CONSUMPTION DETAILS
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
40/43 8 456 3420 342000 7500 46 40/65 5 0 0 0 7500 0 40/65 5 0 0 0 7500 0 EMB COSTING DETAILS Total No of Stiches/mtr Divided By 1000 At Paisa Total amount Rate For 1000 Stiches @ 0.850ps 565778 565.778 0.85 480.91 Rate For 1000 Stiches @ 1.35rs 0 0 1.35 0 Total Emb Cost/mtr 480.91 Additional Charges Applique consumpition /Fabric Cost 0 Extra Thread Consumption 0 Trimming Cost 0 velvet Cutting Cost 0 Total Emb Cost 480.91
The concept is taken ahead to mirror it and make a block that falls into the vertical line. This linear design unning the width of the design continuously with no possible gaps.
LAYOUT INTERVENTION
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
There is a mild tweaking that squats one of the blocks that falls in the linear length. There are descending lines closing in at the end and beginning of each repeat.
The squatted box in the linear structure repeating alternately falls acroos better than the rest.
LAYOUT INTERVENTION
The heavy equi measured blocks that linearly fall into stripes are separted by a gap making it less crowded and less heavy.
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Also, a gap is maintained between each repeat to give it the highly graphic quality.
F I N A L L A Y O U T & CO L O U R W A Y S
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
CO L O U R W A Y S The structural movement of the motif adds a graphic interest to the design. There is absolute symmetry and movement in the design.
Area A - Gray Area
Area B - Black Area Area C - Base Fabric
DECIDING THE LOOK
SIMULATION
Area A - Gray Area The Gray area is visualised as a dense embroidery. The stitches would be closely packed and thus complementary to black. Area B - Thick black the Black stripes that are recurrent. Dobby stripes would be ideal.
Design name: Labyrinth Technqiue: Embroidery & Weaving Base Fabric: 100% Linen Fabric width : 130 cm
Repeat size : 32.5 cm X 40 cm Number of repeats : 4 Stitches/repeat : 170866 Yarns: 120 Dn Polyester
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Area C - 100% Natural Linen A 100% linen fabric serves as a backing
DESIGN NAME: LABYRINTH
SPECIFICATIONS
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Dobby stripes ranging 0.25” 0.5” 0.75” 1.00” on both sides of the motif are done on the 120 shaft dobby loom and satin weave is applied. DESIGN STRUCTURE DETAILS REPEAT SIZE vertical (cms) 40 horizontal (cms) 32.5 REPEATS IN LENGTH 5 REPEATS IN WIDTH 4 TOTAL NO OF REPEATS/Lr.Mtr.130cms 2.5 NUMBER OF STITCH DETAILS Design Area Stiches 40/65 Repeat
Design Area Total No Of Stiches Per Mtr
Repeat 170866 1281495 Finishing/calendering nil No of Colors in Design 1
Shade# Brand Dinear col#1 Gray Natesh 120 YARN CONSUMPTION DETAILS
CO S T I N G
COLOUR DETAILS
THREAD USAGE Design Area Repeat SIZE Per Repeat Per Meter 100 Mtr 120 Dinear Total Boxes Caluclation /100 Mtr
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
40/32.5 4 642 4815 481500 7500 64 40/65 4 0 0 0 7500 0 40/65 5 0 0 0 7500 0 EMB COSTING DETAILS Total No of Stiches/mtr Divided By 1000 At Paisa Total amount Rate For 1000 Stiches @ 0.850ps 1281495 1281.495 0.85 1089.27 Rate For 1000 Stiches @ 1.35rs 0 0 1.35 0 Total Emb Cost/mtr 1089.3 Additional Charges Applique consumpition /Fabric Cost 0 Extra Thread Consumption 0 Trimming Cost 0 velvet Cutting Cost 0 Total Emb Cost 1089.3
LAYOUT INTERVENTION
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
A solid monocolour through the repeat.
Outline of the concept could also be interesting . The hazy effect which is one sided and mono coloured is seen across the width.
There is a brush stroked effect from dark to light from one side to another side.
The edges of the motif have dithered effect, sort of giving a rippled effect.
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
The stippled effect with the colour gradation is seen across the width of the fabric.
LAYOUT INTERVENTION
Stippled mono colour effect through out the width.
F I N A L L A Y O U T & CO L O U R W A Y S
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
The structural movement of the motif adds a graphic interest to the design. There is absolute symmetry and movement in the design.
Area A - Beige Area
Area B - Pink Area Area C - Orange Fabric
Area A- Mustard Area Mustard area is visualised as a dense satin.
DECIDING THE LOOK
SIMULATION
Area B - Pink Area The gradation ranged from one edge to the other edge.
Design name: Shift Technqiue: Jacquard weaving Number of hooks : 2640 Fabric width : 130 cm
Repeat size : 20 cm X 32.5 cm Number of repeats : 4 Hooks/repeat : 660 Yarns: Silk, Cotton, Linen, Viscose
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Area C - Orange Area The gradation ranged from one edge to the other edge.
Area A
Area B
WEAVES
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Area C
weft order: 50 Linen 300 dn viscose 2/40s Spun Viscose
Area A
WEAVES
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Area C Area B
WEAVE SIMULATION
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
WARP = 3x40-44 Silk WEFT = 50 linen 300 dn Viscose
Design : Brace Yarn cost : Silk = 3400/kg Linen = 2200/kg Cotton = 800/kg Viscose = 750/kg Spun Viscose = 1000/kg Based on gsm : Silk + Viscose + Linen + Spun Viscose 299 + 93 + 272 + 114 778/ Dyeing cost: 80/Weaving machinery cost: 65/Total Manufacturing Cost : 758/Overheads (20%) : 151/-
(758 + 151 = 909)
Profit (7%) : 63.5/Total Fabric Cost/meter : 972.5/-
Finish : Loom Finish
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
2/40s Spun Viscose REED = 100s Reed, 4/Dent E.P.C = 78 P.P.C = 75 RATIO = 1 : 1 : 1 FINGERS = 50 Linen backing 300 dn viscose light 2/40s Spun Viscose dark WEIGHT (Per meter) WARP = 2x40-44 88.00 gms WEFT = 50 Linen 124.00 gms = 300 dn viscose 124.00 gms = 2/40s Spun Viscose 114.00 gms CONSTRUCTION 19% Silk 39% Cotton 42% Viscose
COSTING
S P E C I F I C A T I O N & CO S T I N G
Name: Shift
F I N A L L A Y O U T & CO L O U R W A Y S
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
The broken lines fading into the centre after a running stitch effect creates a very graphic effect.
Area A - Beige Area
Area B - mustard Area
Area A- beige Area Mustard area is visualised as a dense satin.
DECIDING THE LOOK
SIMULATION
Area B - Pink Area The lines are visualised as a sateen float which gives a running stitch look.
Repeat size : 18 cm X 32.5 cm Number of repeats : 4 Hooks/repeat : 660 Yarns: Silk, Viscose
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Design name: Meander Technqiue: Jacquard weaving Number of hooks : 2640 Fabric width : 130 cm
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
WARP = 3x40-44 Silk WEFT = 50 linen 2/40s Spun Viscose
Area A
WEAVES
Area A
Area B
Area B
SIMULATION
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
Name: Meander WARP = 3x40-44 Silk WEFT = 50 linen 2/40s Spun Viscose REED = 100s Reed, 4/Dent E.P.C = 78 P.P.C = 75 RATIO = 1 : 1 FINGERS = 50 Linen backing 2/40s Spun Viscose design
SPECIFICATION
Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT
WEIGHT (Per meter) WARP = 2x40-44 88.00 gms WEFT = 50 Linen 116.00 gms = 2/40s Spun Viscose 120.00 gms CONSTRUCTION 19% Silk 39% Linen 42% Viscose Finish : Loom Finish
CO S T I N G
COSTING Design : Meander Yarn cost : Silk = 3400/kg Linen = 2200/kg Spun Viscose = 1000/kg Based on gsm : Silk + Linen + Spun Viscose 299 + 255 + 120 674/ Dyeing cost: 30/Weaving machinery cost: 65/Total Manufacturing Cost : 758/Overheads (20%) : 153/-
( 674 + 95 = 909 & 20% of 909 = 153)
Profit (7%) : 63.63
( 7% of 909 = 63 )
Total Fabric Cost/meter : 972.63/Pranavasthitha • Swadeshi Silks • NIFT