Tales and Trails Margaret River Region Magazine - Autumn 2022 by Vanguard Publishing Perth

autumn & winter 2022 |

YO U R F RE E GU I D E TO TH E REG I O N

MARGARE T RIVER • BUSSELTON • DUNSBOROUGH • AUGUSTA

OPEN DAILY 11AM - 5PM 61 THORNTON RD | YALLINGUP | WA (08) 9750 1111 WWW.ARAVINAESTATE.COM 3

WADANDI BO ODJA The Wadandi people are the traditional custodians of the South West of Western Australia. Wadandi Boodja means Saltwater People’s Country. ‘Whilst living, travelling, visiting and holidaying on Wadandi Boodja, we ask that you respect the area and walk softly on the country taking time to listen to Boodja (Country) as she Wongi (talks) of the season, and leave nothing but footprints.’ Pibulmun Wadandi Yunungjarli Elder Wayne Webb

ABORIGINAL SEASONS

The Wadandi people follow a six-season calendar. This autumn and winter you’ll experience Djeran, Makuru, and Djilba

Djeran / April - May

Makuru / June - July

DjiLba / August - September

Djeran signifies the start of cooler weather. Djeran is noted for south westerly winds, an abundance of native flowers in bloom and trees in fruit. Native fruits like zamia, palm nuts and tubers are collected at this time. The burning season continues as does fishing in rivers, dams and the ocean.

Makuru is cold with the first of the heavy rains and storms occurring more frequently as Boodja (Country) cools down. Many local Wadandi people moved to inland areas at this time to find shelter and escape the storms coming off the Southern Ocean. With the cold, coastal winds prevailing, the Yonga Booka (kangaroo skin cloak) was turned inside out so that the fur was against the skin, while the outside was oiled to provide waterproof protection against the sun.

As the days start to warm up, explosions of wildflowers bloom in the south west over Djilba. Yonga Marra (Kangaroo Paw) begins to flower yellow blossoms. This is a transitional time of year with some cold and clear days, rainy and windy days and an occasional sunny day. The controlled burning from previous seasons brings lush growth of green grasses which attracts animals. The Kyooya (frog) can be heard from the wetlands. Learn more at undalup.com

Thank you to all our contributors Cally Browning, Sophie Mathewson, Lizzy Pepper, Tom De Souza, Tim Campbell, Matt Deakin, Russell Ord, Janine Pittaway, Sarah Robinson, Danielle Costley, Dianne Bortoletto, Fergal Gleeson, Taya Reid, Emily Kurys-Romer. Cover Image: Ryan Murphy, shot at Gracetown Beach. Tales and Trails is proudly brought to you by the Margaret River Busselton Tourism Association, Premium Publishers and Vanguard Press. For advertising enquiries contact Natalie Du Preez: natalie@premiumpublishers.com.au No material published in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the permission from the publisher. The views expressed in Tales and Trails are those of the retrospective contributors and every endeavour is made to ensure information is correct at time of print but may change afterwards. Please visit margaretriver.com for the most up to date information.

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SPOTLIGHT ON...

taya reid What did you discover when writing your article about the Gnarabup swimmers (pg.26)? Fred Annesley is funny as heck and the White Elephant cafe makes a bloody good ham and cheese croissant. Buttery and chunky – the croissant, not Fred.

Any inside tips for travellers to the Margaret River Region in autumn and winter? You don’t have to spend your whole day going up and down Caves Road. If it’s raining, skip the skipper and order wine tasting, breakfast hampers, private chefs and yoga sessions to your accommodation.

Top three local food experiences? Farm lunch at Glenarty Road, pasta at Barnyard 1978, kingfish poke bowl at Shelter Brewing Co. Best time of year down south? I love sunshine, but cellar door fireplaces and big, smoky cabernets make it Djeran (AprilMay) for the win. Plus, I have a photographer’s interest in crashing waves and moody skies. Favourite place to watch the sunset? With my family and friends on the rocks at Yallingup beach, camera in one hand, local frothy in the other.

Glenarty Road

Chronic wanderlust and a dedication to tasting the region’s top-quality food and wine are the key reasons Taya Reid pursued a career in writing and photography. Her musings on travel, food and culture can be found in a number of articles on margaretriver.com. When Taya isn’t up to her knees in Indian Ocean or interviewing curious locals, you’ll find her writing her next novel. She took five to answer five about the Margaret River Region.

...a uniquely southern Margaret River style. Cellar Door | Open Daily | 10am to 5pm BYO picnic + wine by the glass stellabella.com.au || 9758 8611 205 Rosa Brook Road, Margaret River

WHAT’S INSIDE A Runner’s Guide to Tracks & Trails

The Craft Beer Crawl

The Wines of Wilyabrup

Tall Tales: Fred Annesley & the Gnarabup Swimmers

12 Colourful & Quirky Cafés

Your Guide to Workshops & Masterclasses

Photo Essay: Main Break

Sip Your Way Around Small Scale Wineries

6 Days on the Cape to Cape

Monitoring the Mysteries of Migrating Whales

Drive Your Story

What’s Hiding in the Region’s LIAs

Sweet Beats: Margaret River Region’s Music Scene

Beyond the Cellar Door: 5 Immersive Winery Experiences

Mammoth Cave: A Story of Regeneration

WHAT’S NEW PAGE 8 WHAT’S ON PAGE 13

BUSSELTON

Map & Things to Do Timber & Trains: A Tale of WAs First Steam Locomotive Bustling Busselton

DUNSBOROUGH

Map & Things to Do Eco Explorations in Dunsborough & Yallingup

MARGARET RIVER

Map & Things to Do Margaret River’s Surf & Source Trail

AUGUSTA

Map & Things to Do Nautical Curiosities From the Tip of the Cape

GETTING AROUND

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Quedjinup

Undalup ON WADANDI BOODJA Flanked by national parks including underground caves, pristine coastlines and rugged granite outcrops, the Margaret River Region is the quintessential Western Australian holiday destination. This is award-winning wine country with a thriving art scene, incredible hiking trails, and a distinctly circular food philosophy with a great respect for the land.

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The region is framed on three sides by ocean, with sheltered bays to the north, vineyards and surf coast along its length, and two oceans meeting at the southern tip. For help planning your next adventure, contact our team of local travel experts here in the Margaret River Region. Telephone: (08) 9780 5911 Email: welcome@margaretriver.com Web: margaretriver.com

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MAP Discover the southwest with Avis. Explore everything this region has to offer with our latest model vehicle, and wide range – including people movers and SUVs. Plus, ask about our one-way rentals with unlimited kilometers. B u n B u r y | B u s s e lt o n | B u s s e lt o n - M a r g a r e t r i v e r a i r p o r t av i s . c o M . au | 1 8 0 0 67 9 8 8 0

WHAT’S

New

Decadent seafood cruises, 4WD wine adventures, roof top bars and French patisseries – there’s plenty of new experiences and offerings to keep us delighted on holidays. Here’s our wrap up of must-try new (or new-ish) stuff to get around. WORDS | LIZZY PEPPER

// TOURS AND EXPERIENCES South West Cruises launched ‘Taste of the Bays’ in January, a 7-course feast served aboard a 60-ft pleasure boat as you navigate the sapphire waters from Dunsborough to Bunker Bay. They tell the story of the region through glorious produce; Abrolhos Island scallops, barbecued red emperor, Manjimup marron, Howard Park wines and Yallingup Cheese to mention but a few. Look out for them in summer when cruises resume. KAS Helicopters offer a range of scenic flights from 30-minute joyrides over Busselton Jetty and along Geographe Bay, to full day winery hopping adventures. A helicopter ride is a thrilling way to take in the beautiful coastline from above, to arrive in style or celebrate a special occasion. Kombi Cruz Tours take the hassle out of organising a tour. Their mystery tour will

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take you to a selection of surprise secret spots. With an immaculately presented Kombi, this adventure has some great photo opps. For others looking for a driver in the region, try MyDriver Private Tours.

// WINE PAR ADISE Swings and Roundabouts is a brilliant place to kick back with pizza, wine and verdant vineyard views. The winery is brimming with new attractions including an outdoor combi bar and new nature playground extensions for the kids. Also coming soon, is their ‘Swing off the Beaten Track’ experience where cellar door manager Antonio Carreira will take you on a 4WD track to a secret coastal spot, for an antipasto picnic and wine tasting on the beach. Walsh & Sons teamed up with artisan butcher The Farm House and opened their new cellar door just before Christmas. It’s a sunny spot

where you can taste the minimal-intervention wine as well as stock the fridge with small goods and quality meats, avocados, pickles and Sarina Kamini’s spice mixes. They’ve had a food truck each weekend over summer; watch their socials for autumn and winter happenings.

Sweet French macarons and chocolate boxes from Maison Lassaille is the perfect holiday indulgence.

McHenry Hohnen opened a new cellar door in Witchcliffe late last year, a town which has always been part of the McHenry Hohnen story. It’s an opportunity to slow down and taste some of the wines that make this region so unique and special. The tasting room is open daily with 20 wines available to taste. Frui Momento at Cherubino is the muchanticipated collaboration between esteemed winemaker Larry Cherubino and chef Seth James, who put Wills Domain on the national stage. Elegant and sleek with magnificent gardens, you can pop in for champagne and oysters or stay for a long lunch with friends. With a wine list of over 300 styles and varieties from all over the world, there’s plenty to love about Wilyabrup’s newest addition.

// DRINKS & DINING Hally’s Bar is a brilliant addition to the Busselton dining scene. There’s a beer garden, rooftop bar with a view, live music and a few different dining zones. The food is delicious and designed to share, the drinks list is extensive. Hally’s is the brainchild of Deb Halliburton from The Good Egg, so it’s sure to be a success.

Maison Lassiaille will take you straight back to Paris with their French macarons and stunning petit gateau, served in the lush gardens of their new Metricup venue. Pâtissier Romain Lassiaille worked in Michelin star restaurants in Paris and honed his chocolate skills in Switzerland before making a sea change for life in the Margaret River Region. CookDigs brings Mediterranean food to Fig Tree Lane in Busselton, and it’s made with plenty of love. The mezze plate is a rainbow of colour; think beetroot humus, pumpkin dip, sweet potato chips, falafel, salad and pickled veggies. Margaret River Coffee Company recently opened within the beautiful surrounds of Margaret River Providore and Coward & Black Vineyards in Metricup. 23 years in the making, they’re finally up and running, roasting ethically sourced ultra-premium beans small batches

on a classic, hand-built copper roaster. With freshly roasted beans, water drawn from their underground spring and local milk, could this be the best coffee in the region? Origins Market has artisans, butchers, fishmongers, bakers, brewers, wine makers, fruit and vegetable growers, chefs and baristas all under one roof, so whether you’re grabbing lunch and a coffee, stocking up your holiday home fridge or looking for hand crafted gifts, you’ll be delighted. There’s a small playground and pottery and art workshops. Inspired by great markets such as London’s Borough Market and Mercado de La Boqueria in Barcelona, you can stay for a glass of wine, a craft beer or something yummy to eat.

/ / AT TRACTIONS Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse’s major once-ina-century restoration is set to be complete around the time this mag goes to press, and the famous guided tours will re-launch in autumn. Also discover the heritage awardwinning Lightkeeper’s Cottage Interpretive Centre, wander the grounds and dine at the café. Bookings recommended for the lighthouse tours. Eagles Heritage Raptor Wildlife Centre began in 1987 to help rehabilitate injured and orphaned owls and birds of prey, and is now a popular place to visit thanks to an entertaining Flight Show featuring Ivy the

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...snuggle up by the fire and enjoy superb forest views through large windows

Margaret River Historical Society Walking Trail. Discover the history of the Margaret River Region through timber plaques with embedded QR codes that open up stories and historical images. The trail is a free and fascinating peek behind the town’s modern façade. IMAGE: Jason Credaro

Barn Owl and three black kites. Former owner Phil Pain continues his conservation work at the centre and runs daily Flight Shows (which deliver witty humour and bird facts in equal parts). The revamped retail space features a beautiful selection of local products and giftware. Bookings recommended. Busselton Heritage Trail is a self-guided tour taking in Busselton’s fascinating historical sites. Learn about the pioneer families, the timber industry, the famous Jetty and more. The tour includes over 45 minutes of video content, hundreds of images and heritage audio recordings, and is great value at $10 for a 14-day subscription.

// ART JahRoc Galleries play host to Janine Daddo’s new exhibition from 15th April. It’s a joyful collection of bold, figurative paintings that capture what makes the Margaret River Region so special; the ocean, wine, trees and love.

// STAY The Haven Margaret River is a stylish country residence on a beautiful semi-rural property. Relax on the deck with a glass of wine or snuggle up by the fire and enjoy superb forest views through large windows. Have an outdoor shower after the beach, or under the stars. Suitable for 4 guests over the age of 13, this is the perfect retreat for couples or 4 friends.

JahRoc Galleries is widely known for its diverse art representation and its cutting edge furniture designs. Situated in the heart of Margaret River, it is a one stop gallery destination that is home to their own line of JahRoc Fine Furniture and also exhibits an inspiring collection of Fine Art, Paintings, Art Glass, Sculpture, Ceramic, Fine Jewellery & Argyle Diamonds.

JahRoc’s unique collaborative approach with contemporary Australian Artists offers the viewer an opportunity to observe a crossing of genres and throughout their nexpansive eruaL dngallery a ydrspaces, aV viL to,svisualize eliG divhow aD hctaW furniture and art pieces might work together nineptheir O gown nirudhome seirellor aGoffice. corhaJ ta gnitaerc dduR

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JahRoc Furniture (est.1987) have forged a reputation as Western Australia’s leading furniture designer/makers with Gary Bennett and David Paris working together producing bespoke fine furniture pieces that have been acquired by collectors around the globe. With over 50 industry awards, the JahRoc design team are by far the most highly awarded furniture makers in Australia. Using ethically sourced local hardwoods, JahRoc’s Furniture is often described as “functional art”.

Visit JahRoc Galleries today and find out why all that do leave inspired. 83 Bussell Highway, Margaret River (08) 9758 7200 info@jahroc.com.au

www.jahroc.com.au

Open daily 10am - 5pm 11

BUSSELTON FESTIVAL OF TRIATHLON // April 29th – May 1st With a range of distances to suit all ages, this is an event for all abilities. The new Busselton 100 tri involves a 2km swim, 80km cycle and 18km run incorporating the iconic Jetty, Tuart Forest and pristine Geographe Bay. Spectating is free plus there will be food & entertainment across the event. busseltonfestivaloftriathlon.com.au

WHAT’S

In Autumn and Winter, there’s no sign of hibernation – the region is buzzing with music and arts events, foodie festivals and spectator sports. Sign up to the Margaret River Region’s monthly What’s On blaster to be kept up-to-date on event announcements or changes to the schedule. Visit margaretriver.com to subscribe.

May MARGARET RIVER ULTRA MARATHON // May 7th The Margaret River Ultra Marathon provides an incredible journey through diverse landscapes. Course updates can be found at the event website. margaretriver.rapidascent.com.au MARGARET RIVER READERS & WRITERS FESTIVAL // May 13th – 15th Margaret River Readers & Writers Festival brings an array of thought-provoking writers to the region including novelists, journalists, academics and established and emerging storytellers from WA, interstate and overseas. mrrwfestival.com

June OUT OF THE WOODS MUSIC FESTIVAL // April 23rd – 24th 2 days – 3 stages – 40+ artists. Out of The Woods festival launches in Busselton for the ANZAC Long Weekend with big name musicians, art installations, secret bars, and a selection of local food and beverages. ootwfest.com

April MARGARET RIVER PRO // April 24th – May 4th As a WSL Championship Tour event, the Pro attracts surfing’s global elite, with the top professional men and women surfers in the world competing for championship points. Spectators can watch all the action live and FREE at Surfers Point. The event hub has a festival vibe, with big screens showing replays, expert commentary, food trucks and merchandise stands. margaretriver.com/event/margaret-river-pro/

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AUGUSTA WHALESONG FESTIVAL // June 4th – 6th Head to Augusta for the June long weekend and celebrate the official start of the whale watching season, at the Whale Song Festival. Live music, market stalls, workshops and family activities all weekend, at venues throughout Augusta and along the Blackwood River. Check their Facebook page for updates.

designs in nature

August

DOWN SOUTH MTB FESTIVAL // June 4th – 6th The Down South MTB festival celebrates mountain biking in the Margaret River Region over two days of competitive & recreational events.

CINEFESTOZ CELEBRATING 15 YEARS // August 24th – 28th CinfestOZ is Australia’s premier film festival. Mingle with the stars, watch the best of Australian & international film at cinemas, wineries, boutique breweries, small bars or galleries and enjoy the regions world-class food, wine and picturesque scenery. cinefestoz.com

July

September

DEJA MOO // July 9th If you even needed an excuse to wear a cow “onesie” this is it. Cowaramup’s Deja MOO Festival is an Udderly Legendairy Country Fair! It’s 10 years since cows moooved into Cowaramup so this year’s festival should be extra special.

MARGARET RIVER REGION OPEN STUDIOS // September 10th – 25th Artists and artisans open the doors to their art studios and workshops for 16 days, delivering a unique experience for art lovers to meet the creator of the artwork, and peruse and purchase original artworks. With over 100 artists involved, this is the biggest event of its kind. mrropenstudios.com.au

CABIN FEVER FESTIVAL // July 15th – 24th Cabin Fever gets bigger and better every year. Book your stay to enjoy 10 days of wintry goodness including cheese toasties, fireside wines, hearty comfort food and more. cabinfeverfest.com.au UNDALUP NAIDOC WEEK FESTIVAL // July 3rd – 10th Each year, the Undalup Association coordinate a range of activities to celebrate the history, culture and achievements of the region’s First Nations People, the Pibulmun Wadandi People. All are welcome to participate and learn about the traditions and culture of the local Indigenous communities. See margaretriver.com for up to date info.

October STRINGS ATTACHED GUITAR FESTIVAL // October 9th – 11th A festival for guitar makers, players and enthusiasts strung out over three epic days. stringsattachedfestival.com.au FINE VINES FESTIVAL // October 14th – 23rd Bringing together more than 35 unique wine experiences over 10 days, the Fine Vines Festival celebrates the people, passion and places that make Margaret River the renowned winemaking region it is. finevinesfestival.com.au

jewellery designed and handmade in Margaret River Mon - Sat, 10am - 4pm 611 Boodjidup Road 08 9757 6885 info@payetgallery.com.au www.payetgallery.com.au

A RUNNER’S GUIDE TO

Tracks and Trails of the Margaret River Region

Running is trending in popularity across the globe, and the Margaret River Region seems to be leading the pack. WORDS | Sophie Mathewson

THE CALIBRE OF runners in the Margaret River Region is world class. Underpinning the activity is the principle of community, commitment, and appreciating natural landscapes. Katie Lovis – a dedicated local runner, knows the trails and tracks intimately. In December 2021, she broke the record for fastest supported female runner on the Cape to Cape Track, completing the 123km run from Cape Leeuwin to Cape Naturaliste in just 17 hours. But the ultra-athlete says you needn’t go far to appreciate the region’s running tracks. She says the Margaret River Region has astounding accessibility to diverse trails - from coastal heaths, bush tracks, and farmland. Lovis truly believes that it’s not about the medals or the personal bests, the reward is the journey itself – powered by your own two feet!

Where to Start FOREST: There are abundant forest tracks to access around the region, and if there is rain forecast or you’re feeling the heat, the shaded marri and karri trees provide protection. A good place to start is the Darch Trail loop from Rotary Park, at

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the beginning of Margaret River township. It’s a clearly signposted run, and you won’t need to worry about getting lost. Not far from here, you could also try the Chimney Trail which is in the Wooditchup National Park. The trail is just off Carters Road near the RAC Holiday Park in Margaret River and is another one that is signposted. The figure eight track descends then ascends, making it a good little workout. It’s also just stunningly beautiful native forest. SCENIC: One of the most scenic runs you’ll find in the region, is in the Meelup Regional Park, which is along Geographe Bay – east of Cape Naturaliste. Aaron Millwood runs the Trans Cape Swim Run event along this part of the coastline, and participants will traverse 26km of coastline, running and swimming in equal measure. If you’re just seeking solitude and want to get out and do a shorter run along the Meelup Trails, you could park at Meelup beach and head to Eagle Bay. You’ll pass through Point Picquet (named after French explorer SubLieutenant Picquet, who made land in 1801). It’s breathtaking territory, where natural bushland

Forest trails give shade and protection from the elements.

REST, RELAX, RECONNECT Romantic, secluded couples’ retreat in self-contained chalets with candlelit sky-view spas, kingsized beds and tranquil forest outlooks, on 240 acres of natural beauty.

Don’t Miss MARGARET RIVER ULTRA MARATHON When: May 7th 2022 Where: The run starts at Hamelin Bay in Augusta and finishes at Cheeky Monkey Brewery in Wilyabrup

231 Yelverton Road, Yelverton Margaret River Wine Region Phone (08) 9755 7110 or email reception@forestrise.com.au

R E ST, R E ST, R E LRAEXL,ARXECO , R ECO N NECT NNECT Romantic, Romantic, secluded, secluded, self contained self contained chalets chalets with candlelit with candlelit sky-view sky-view spas, Kingsize spas, Kingsize

double double beds and bedstranquil and tranquil forestforest outlooks, outlooks, on on 240 acres 240 acres of natural of natural beauty. beauty.

231 Yelverton 231 Yelverton Road,Road, Yelverton Yelverton Margaret Margaret RiverRiver WineWine Region Region Phone Phone (08) 9755 (08) 9755 71107110 or or emailemail reception@forestrise.com.au reception@forestrise.com.au

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Local runner, Katie Lovis, completed a world record running the Cape to Cape Track in just 17 hours.

collides with red rocky outcrops, white sands and turquoise waters. CAPE TO CAPE: There are so many parts of the Cape to Cape Track to run, but when pressed for intel, Katie Lovis suggests starting from the Rivermouth in Margaret River and doing a ‘there and back’ to Joey’s Nose. This section will take you across Horseshoe Bay and over Cape Mentelle, then past Kilcarnup and Joey’s Nose beaches. The run will involve a bit of beach running and some steep climbing, but it really does offer a great panorama of the Cape. If you’re not familiar with these beaches and tracks, Lovis suggests using a Suunto watch and app. “There’s a great mapping function within the app which allows you to map trails, to see what your distance is, and to know your route.” (Note that the Rivermouth isn’t safe to cross in winter when swells and tides are unpredictable).

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RUNNING IN A GROUP: Lovis says her life really changed when she started running in a group. “It’s the friendship and the laughter and the joy that I get on the trails with other people around to share it.” For runners who want to feel the positivity of a supportive community, Lovis would point them to either Park Run or Margaret River Runner’s Club, which are both held on Saturday mornings. If you can comfortably run 10km, then Margaret River Runner’s Club is the best one to join. The group is coordinated by locals with a lot of knowledge of the trails, and starts at varying locations each week at 7am. Just check for the latest details on their Facebook page. For runners who prefer a lighter, 5km run, then Park Run would be where to start. Lovis says that the beauty of Park Run is that it is consistent. “It’s a Saturday morning, 8am no matter where you are in the world, you can look up a Park Run and you can go and participate. You have your barcode and you just turn up and run. It’s not a race. You can run. You can walk. The course is consistent. There’s always support

for you there. So it’s a really inclusive run. Also, Margaret River is fantastic course. It’s one of the most beautiful Park Runs you’re going to get the chance to do.” Park Run participants meet at Rotary Park and do the Darch Trail loop along the river, with a coffee at the Hairy Marron café to finish. Be sure to say hello to the café’s owner and operator Paul Iles. His expertise on biking trails is comparable to none and he serves up a killer flat white. MARGARET RIVER TRAIL RUNNER’S SHOP: At time of press, Katie Lovis was preparing to open a shopfront in Margaret River to share her knowledge of the tracks and trails with visitors and sell appropriate clothing, footwear and backpacks for runs and walks. It’s welcome news, as having experienced assistance from a local to help with planning can make or break a run or a multi-day walk. Lovis has a genuine enthusiasm for the region’s trails. “We’re so lucky where we are, the trails are beautiful, the people are beautiful, so it’s just such an enjoyable thing.”

BREWERY | DISTILLERY | RESTAURANT | PLAYGROUND

FP Black Brewing Co

Come and spend the day with us. Black Brewing Co is guaranteed to give you a quintessential taste of the South West region. We offer uncompromising craft beers brewed inhouse, our Gold Medal Dune Distilling Gins and some of Margaret Rivers best wine varietals all served alongside a delicious menu made from locally sourced ingredients.

Open daily from 11am to 5pm

SCAN TO BOOK A TABLE

3517 Caves Road, Wilyabrup WA 6280 08 9755 6500

For Weddings, Corporate and Special Event enquiries please contact events@blackbrewingco.com.au

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The Craft Beer Crawl

WORDS | Janine Pittaway

Whether you’re a beer connoisseur or just curious about the craft beer phenomenon, you’ll love the latest innovations from our region’s best brewers.

THE CRAFT BEER industry is booming in the south west with 13 breweries in the Margaret River Region alone. We’ve done the hard yards to help you plan your next brewery daycation with some top thirst-quenching experiences.

Busselton Rocky Ridge’s inviting taphouse provides a homely base to sample up to 25 beers on tap, complemented by tasty meals and snacks by

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Margaret River Burger Co. What was once Managing Director Hamish Coates’ grandparent’s cottage, the friendly venue has recently expanded, opening the backyard to create more seating and undercover space to welcome more beer enthusiasts. Taps rotate weekly, with local collaborations and produce a speciality in Rocky’s beers. Also keeping it local is Shelter Brewing Co. From squid ink XXPA to surf wax sour, you can

taste Busso in their beers while soaking up the stunning views over Busselton Jetty. Take a brewery tour for a behind-the-scenes look at the brewing process and taste beer straight from the tank. Stay for lunch and dinner and choose from a tasty menu that includes plenty of options for a range of dietary requirements.

movement, he transferred his love of the science of fermentation to beer, appreciating the ability to experiment and have fun. Pop in to taste the Beast’s core range – Margot, George, Leonard, Franco and Jack – and discover their unique personalities.

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A visit to Eagle Bay Brewery is always special, with its views down the valley to Geographe Bay, but having narrowly escaped bushfires in January, fans of this 11-year-old family owned institution will be even more grateful to enjoy their quality range of beers, food and great atmosphere. Eagle Bay Brewing is now canning their core range and there’s some lip smacking single series beers planned for release throughout the year.

Take a surprising detour off the tourist trails into the light industrial area for two terrific craft beer experiences. Cheeky Monkey Brewing Co’s production facility has a secret taphouse for those in the know to sample their latest releases and core range while sitting amongst the vast vats, barrels and bottling lines. Cheeky Monkey HQ Taphouse opens Thursday to Sunday from 4pm to 7pm also providing pizzas and snacks. A stone’s throw down the road is WA’s smallest commercial brewery The Sophisticated Beast. It’s a one-man show but what it lacks in size it makes up for in the huge passion of owner Ryan White for his Farmhouse-style beer production. Ryan describes his brewery as a ‘fancy home brew set up’ and says visitors enjoy seeing the brewery in action and having the opportunity to talk to him about their shared love of brewing. Ryan studied viticulture in Margaret River and after working a vintage in Sonoma, California and seeing its flourishing craft beer

Eagle Bay

Yallingup Wild Hop Brewing Company could well be the only brewery in Australia where you can order a rotisserie chook when booking a table. Enjoy the shady beer garden or sit indoors in the relaxed atmosphere with open fire and views across the dam. Wild Hop is family, pooch and beer geek friendly. Their beers don’t come packaged so their brewpub is the best place to enjoy a great selection of batch brews. Tucked under Aravina Estate’s restaurant terrace on the manicured lawn is 8 Waves Brewing Company taphouse. Enjoy a rotating beer range created by Aravina winemaker Dr Brad Hatton. Celebrating the region’s eight famous surf breaks, 8 Waves Brewing Co complements the WA Surf Gallery - a muchloved feature of Aravina Estate.

Kick off your boots, get your hands dirty and have a good time at The Beer Farm

Margaret River

Metricup Kick your boots off, get your hands dirty and have a good time at Beerfarm. As a converted dairy farm, it stands out from the region’s upmarket offerings and, thanks to a permanent residency by Burnt Ends Smoking Co, visitors enjoy traditional BBQ straight from the smokers, featuring black angus beef direct from the surrounding paddocks. It’s a true paddock to plate experience, with the cattle fed spent grains from the brewing process reducing waste and providing great nutrition. Keep an eye out for their new native beer series in association with the Badgebup Aboriginal Corporation. A percentage of profits will go back to the Great Southern-based organisation.

Wilyabrup It’s been a big few months for Black Brewing Co, winning Gold in the Tourism Wineries, Distilleries and Breweries category at the 2021 WA Tourism Awards, and welcoming new Head Brewer Praveen Bhat to the team. His brewing experience includes well known WA brands Gage Roads and Matso’s Brewing. The impressive beer selection is complimented by the Dune Distilling gin range featuring native botanicals. Enjoy a tasting paddle of beer or gin with lunch in the impressive dining hall, on the deck overlooking the dam or in the beer garden where dogs are also welcome.

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TOP IMAGE: A visit to Aravina Estate will tick off both wine and craft beer.

While we’re talking awards, Margaret River Brewhouse’s barrel aged imperial stout, Panther Cream is another winner, taking out successive Perth Royal Beer Awards from 2017 to 2021! The menu at this relaxed and friendly brewpub perched above the Margaret River is a winner in our eyes too. Popular menu staples include chilli salt squid salad & Wedge Island octopus plus firecracker sauce chicken wings and beef tacos. A lesser known gem, located in a picturesque setting on Treeton Road, Cowaramup Brewing Co is a long time favourite with the locals. The brewery serves up paddle board tastings and has a contemporary menu with tasty gluten free and vegan options (kingfish sashimi and Margaret River tempeh – yum!) as well as gourmet pizzas. All well washed down with one of their German-style Pilsners. If you’ve still got time to spare, swing by Colonial Brewing Co, and Bootleg Brewery to experience the region’s full craft beer offering.

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The wineries of Wilyabrup wind seamlessly along the northern parts of Caves Road between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin. This fertile wine region’s proximity to the Indian Ocean provides ideal growing conditions for grapes in this rich Mediterranean climate that benefits from cooling maritime breezes and ancient, fertile soils that impart a unique terroir to this special place.

The Wines of

Wilyabrup WORDS | Danielle Costley

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Named after the Wilyabrup Brook that flows through the many vineyards that blanket the region’s gentle slopes, this is a place where some of the world’s greatest Chardonnays and Cabernets are crafted. FROM HUMBLE BEGINNINGS When Dr John Gladstones’ report on the Margaret River Region was published in 1966, recognising the area’s vast potential for viticulture and its similar characteristics to the world’s best wine regions, it sparked considerable interest from budding vignerons. The report’s findings set an enthusiastic cardiologist with a great appreciation of fine wines, Dr Tom Cullity, on a viticultural journey that required immense perseverance and foresight into what the region could become. The first commercial grapevine plantings soon followed, and one of Margaret River’s chief founding wineries, Vasse Felix, was born. It all began with a mere eight-acres of land in Wilyabrup, with plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Malbec and Riesling. By 1972, the Vasse Felix Riesling had won a gold medal at the Perth Show. The undulating hills alongside tributaries

to the Wilyabrup Creek and Big Brook were soon planted with grapevines by Moss Wood, Woodlands and Cullen wineries. And the rest, as they say, is history. VASSE FELIX No visit to Margaret River is complete without a stop at Vasse Felix. Whether it’s a casual cheese board by the lounge, an exquisitely curated a la carte dining experience at the restaurant, or a guided wine tasting at the cellar door. Venture into The Vault for a private tasting amongst its historic wine collection, which has the last remaining bottle of the 1972 Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec on display. Try the elegant and sophisticated Tom Cullity Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec which was made from those original vines. Finish your experience with a glass of wine and a stroll through the impressive art collection in its gallery. CULLEN WINES This is where biodynamic farming began in Margaret River, under the meticulous care of Vanya Cullen and the Cullen family, who have been crafting premium wines in this region for over 50 years. This carbon-positive winery nurtures the soils and the vineyard’s unique terroir to produce an incredible range of wines that speak of the land, and of this special place that they call home. FRASER GALLOP ESTATE This family-owned winery boasts one of the most stunning estates in Wilyabrup. Pop in for

MARGARET RIVER NOUGAT an intimate tasting at its charming cellar door and taste one of its many award-winning wines from its single vineyard sites. These wines are recognised internationally as some of the best Cabernets and Chardonnays in the world, made by the talented winemaking team that is led by Clive Otto. Embark on a Taste of the Vineyard experience, where you will tour the immaculate Estate and manicured gardens of Gallop House, whilst sampling its Parterre wines on your journey.

French style nougat made onsite. View through our kitchen window and taste uN nGS iqu e M f l BaEvTTEN o u rAsY 'S PREMI UMt h TAeS TI FRO SINGLE VINEYARD WINERY. PLUS HOME TO MARGARET RIVER NOUGAT AND LIQUEURS

CLAIRAULT STREICKER Dine amongst the pristine native bushland at this winery, where the modern menu features seasonal produce in a casual setting. Laze away an afternoon on a picnic blanket in the gardens or enjoy a glass of wine by the stone fireplace on those cooler days. Treat yourself to an interactive Wine Blending Experience, where you will be guided through the process to create your unique signature blend of

OPEN 7 DAYS 10:00am - 5:00pm

248 Tom Cullity Drive, Cowaramup

www.bettenaysmargaretrier.com.au 23 08 97555539

wine. After mastering the intrinsic art of wine blending in this workshop, indulge your palate with a leisurely three-course lunch. Whether it’s a glass of wine and a picnic on the lawns at Juniper Estate on the banks of Wilyabrup Creek or a fine dining experience at Larry Cherubino’s new Frui Momento restaurant, the wineries of Wilyabrup will cater for couples, singles, families, and large group bookings. If the winery doesn’t have a restaurant, pop into Providore and create your own picnic basket for an epicurean feast with world-class wines. Further up the road in Yallingup try these notable mentions: ARAVINA ESTATE The wines from this small vineyard are produced from vines that date back to 1986. It is a popular haven for a leisurely lunch either in the restaurant, or on the expansive lawns that overlook the playground. Many a wedding has taken place at this picturesque location that overlooks Aravina Lake. Taste wines at its cellar door, then browse through the adjoining Surf Gallery and Sports Car Gallery.

this is a place where some of the world’s greatest Chardonnays and Cabernets are crafted.

SWINGS & ROUNDABOUTS Relax on the blissfully peaceful wraparound balcony for a romantic dinner or bring the kids along for your next gathering on its expansive outdoor dining area. Whether it’s a Sunday session or a Happy Hour, this spot is perfect for family events and a menu that showcases local produce.

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ORGANICALLY FARMED 100% ESTATE GROWN AND MADE WINES OF PLACE

Tall Tales: & the

Fred Annesley

Gnarabup Swimmers WORDS | Taya Reid

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WEEK AFTER I meet Fred Annesley and a cohort of the Gnarabup Swimmers, I’m at a family birthday, holding court with my recount of the interview. I never write immediately after an experience, rather let things stew and talk them over, forming the story in my head before it hits the keyboard. “I wonder,” says Mum, on completion of my scintillating tale. “If that’s the same Fred who saved Bryan and I at the River Mouth twenty years ago.” Excited jostling ensues, and I pull up the photo I took, directed by Fred to include the Gnarabup headland, his body facing the surf, ski at the ready, a cheeky glance back over his shoulder in my direction. Mum and her

friends study the portrait. “I reckon that’s him.” When I contact Fred’s wife Bev by text to arrange the meeting, the answer is politely matter of fact – he’s there every morning, usually finished swimming by 7:30am, just ask around, most of them know him. Within a few minutes of talking with Fred, you get the impression that the swimming ritual is so intrinsic to his existence that he isn’t sure what to say about it. At the very least, he doesn’t quite understand what’s so fascinating about his daily aquatic habit, which he shares with tens of others at Gnarabup beach in Prevelly, Margaret River.

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Groups formed over the years, the Prevelly Penguins first, eventually followed by Swimming Women, Sea Queens, and Sea Dragons, though the lines are blurry and friendly, such is coastal town life. Collectively, they’re the Gnarabup Swimmers. Fred’s group, the Sea Slugs, swim south to north from the limestone cliffs towards Surfer’s Point and back again, the smell of coffee from the White Elephant Café offering a warm incentive. “It’s about winter,” says Fred. “We still come down and swim the rest of the year, but winter’s what makes the camaraderie.” It’s easy to imagine that warm, dry towel feeling he’s conjuring, the hot drink reward so much better after big waves and pelting rain. Fred introduces me to “Fine Weather Viv” who apparently doesn’t share these sentiments, at least for the sake of the joke. I ask what would stop Fred from going out. “Shark!” is the immediate and obvious answer. He thinks a moment. “Lightning. We don’t go out in lightning. But nothing else stops us. We’ve always got eyes on each other.” To prove this, binoculars sit in grabbing reach.

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The Sea Slugs comprise almost even numbers of men and women, and while there are some younger and some as old as 80, many are in their 60s and 70s. They’ve been swimming together, or, in a staggered togetherness, for approximately ten years. Fred and his table mates stress to me they’re not a formal club. There are no rules, just turn up and swim for fitness and fun. Contradicting this, they add with a laugh that they’re not recruiting right now, and applications are firmly shut until there are more parking bays at the popular spot. If not a club, they’re certainly a community. Former surf lifesavers from Perth make up a generous portion of the Slugs. Fred himself is the 1970 Open Iron Man Champion, competing then for Trigg Island. Like all good mates, they hold breakfasts, barbecues, and Christmas parties, and join with other not-clubs for events, including an annual memorial swim for former Prevelly Penguin Rae Martin. Fred is among many who credit Rae with lifting them through serious injury and back into the water using the Feldenkrais physiotherapy method. I leave Fred and the Slugs to join my partner

A winter dip followed by a warm drink is a rewarding experience for those brave enough.

and friend on the beach, who say they could hear me laughing from all the way up there. I swim, and it’s easy to understand why someone would want to be here every day. The coastline is complex and striking, dotted with reef. The lagoon-like shape and curve of the beach feels like its own world, a microcosm of salt therapy. We encounter Fred as we walk back up the sand for what is just quietly the best ham and cheese croissant I’ve had in years. He’s about to paddle the ski out to say hello to the surfers. I ask if I can take his picture, composing it mentally as having the sun bouncing from the water into his face, the boat ramp as a backdrop. He has other ideas. “Come on this side, get the headland in.” He poses. It’s a great shot. I concede he’s a better photographer than I am. As we say goodbye my friend mentions she’s impressed by his stamina. He taps his temple. “It’s all up here.” He launches. I decide I like Fred right there on the sand, a whole week before I realise he saved my mum’s life.

Getting there is half the fun Kick back, relax and explore the scenic Margaret River region on one of our luxury road coaches. Western Australia’s South West is rich in history, culture and stunning natural landscapes. Our five-star road coaches are fully accessible and air conditioned, with on board entertainment, including on demand entertainment streaming services to your own device, USB ports and toilet facilities. We travel between Margaret River and Perth 12 times a week and offer a variety of concessional discounts. Unwind and enjoy the scenery while we do the driving. Plan your journey by visiting transwa.wa.gov.au or call 1300 662 205. 29

Colourful

& Quirky

Cafes Across the Margaret River Region, the coffee and cake experience is different everywhere you go thanks to the characteristics of the region’s colourful and quirky cafes. WORDS | Dianne Bortoletto

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Busselton Bistro Breton Traditional French cuisine with your coffee? Yes please. Bistro Breton is located on Queen Street in Busselton and offers savoury and sweet buckwheat crepes. This is the real-deal of French food, with the Bistro/café’s owners hailing from Brittany, a north-western province of France (and historically regarded as the birthplace of the crêpe). Using ethically sourced coffee (The Cape Effect from Dunsborough) and tea (Seven Seas in Cowaramup), you can pull up at chair at Bistro Breton from Monday – Friday for breakfast or lunch. Hippo Lakes Farm shop, event venue and café, the familyowned Hippo Lakes sits on 30 acres about 16km from Busselton in Chapman Hill. The BYO café focuses on locally sourced seasonal produce for its dishes with plenty of gluten free options.

Go for a short drive for a serene weekend breakfast or a lingering lunch and take in the stunning gardens, mature trees, bird life, and lake views that includes a floating island with water reeds, grasses, plants and two sculptures of baby hippos. There are photo opportunities galore. Dog friendly. Anniebrook Farm and Flower Emporium This place has it all – a farm with roaming animals including a chicken coop where you can check through a little window for eggs, a gift shop with everything from shawls to garden gnomes to essential oils, a vineyard, a truffle orchard, a café and veggie garden. The café serves award winning scones, homemade jams, pies with house-made pastry and other dishes using farm produce. Their lemon butter is to die for. Located in Carbunup River between Busselton and Yallingup, Anniebrook Farm and Flower Emporium hosts weddings and other large events too.

lighthouse tour. There’s beautiful grounds to explore as well as the chance to purchase local products such as condiments, jams, olive oil and crackers to take home.

Yallingup Lagoon Yallingup Right near Yallingup main break, is ‘newish’ to town – Lagoon. If you want to indulge in a special breakfast on a romantic getaway, this is the place. They have great gluten free options (try their chilli Shark Bay crab omelette) and the best eggs your way, with Yallingup sourdough and saltbush dukkah. Booking ahead is recommended.

Cowaramup Dunsborough Goanna Bush Café Plan everything else around your breakfast when it comes to dining at Goanna Bush Café. The food is healthy, wholesome and just downright delicious with twists on Modern Australian, European classics and spicy Asian flavours. Nestled in the Western Australian bush, and with native ingredients peppered across the menu, this place ticks both ‘quirky’ and ‘quality’ boxes. Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse Café Built in 1903, the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse is a sight to behold and its views of the Indian Ocean unsurpassed. Nestled inside a lighthouse keeper’s cottage, antique furnishings and quaint touches make the café feel like a step back in time. It’s the perfect place to replenish with a coffee or tea, muffins, cakes, sandwiches, and raw treats after a 30-minute

Gourmet Food Merchant Cowaramup is brimming with cafes, but a lesser-known little gem is Gourmet Food Merchant. This place serves up coffee and cake from 9am – 5pm daily and sells gourmet hampers, goodies and gifts all hailing from the south west. While the magic formula for coffee is always up for debate, there is no doubt that the Gourmet Merchant brew one of the best. Made with a Slayer Steam Two Group espresso machine, these guys are grinding the Midnight blend by local coffee roasting legends at Margaret River Roasting Co. Best consumed with a decadent cake to give you a gutsy morning kick. Woody Nook (The Nookery Cafe) Set against a backdrop of jarrah and marri trees in Wilyabruyp, The Nookery has rustic charm and top quality food. Catering for families, you’ll find a grassy play area with swings for the kids. Open for breakfast and lunch, and serving coffee all day.

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Finding your nearest and best coffee shop is important to the morning ritual even when on holidays.

Inside, the centrepiece is a polished wooden boat which has been transformed into a bar Margaret River Drift Café Just off the main street of Margs is the colourful Drift Café, loved by locals and one of my favourites for an all-day brekkie. Located in the converted Old Shire Library, the front has alfresco dining overlooking Willmott Avenue and inside you’ll find mismatched tables and chairs, wooden spoons as table numbers, really good Five Senses coffee and banging food, the latter two drawing customers back time and again. Check out the fresh juices and homemade baked beans. Café Mosaic Margaret River Tucked away in Margaret River at ‘The Local’, the hidden gem at Café Mosaic is its tranquil dogfriendly outdoor courtyard with a rock waterfall, lush ferns and greenery and the original mosaic wall. Inside there’s speciality coffee and tea, locally made treats and a retail gallery selling a range of regional gourmet produce. Live local musicians can occasionally be found strumming away, entertaining customers.

Witchcliffe Yardbyrd Yardbyrd in ‘Witchy’ is a short 10-minute drive from Margaret River but worth a visit for its relaxed vibe, friendly staff and excellent food

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with just about everything made from scratch. Enter through the plant-filled front courtyard which has plenty of table and chairs, some open and some undercover and water bowls for dogs. Inside there’s a toasty fire.

Augusta The Colourpatch Café & Bar What was once a humble café, The Colourpatch has evolved into licenced restaurant with stunning water views of the inlet. Inside, the centrepiece is a polished wooden boat which has been transformed into a bar. It still operates as a café during the day serving breakfasts, share plates, pizza, burgers and fish and chips.

Frankie’s

Where great food and art come together... Where great food and art come together...

Welcome to the The Studio Gallery & Bistro - an inviting, light filled, contemporary art gallery set alongside a licensed, award-winning restaurant.

The gallery represents-leading Australian artists, variety of artworks andart exhibitions year round. Please check oura website for details.a Welcome to the The Studio Gallery & Bistro an inviting, lightshowcasing filled, acontemporary gallery set alongside licensed, printmaking The gallery represents leading Australian artists, showcasing a variety artworks and year round. Please c Combining international and local culinary experience, Head Chef of Chris Mitchell and his teamexhibitions take inspiration from our beautiful region with its fresh

studio feels

seasonal produce. We pride ourselves on having a varied menu which includes creative vegetarian dishes. Wednesdays only, treat yourselves to our popular Chef’s Select - ‘trust the chef’, delivering a wonderful surprise of dishes and flavour. Bookings ess

like you’ve Combining international and local culinary experience, Head Chef Chris Mitchell and his team take inspiration from our Enjoy a long leisurely lunch on the decking, discovering and tasting a variety of flavours from Chef’s menu designed to share. an ourselves on having a varied menu which includes creative vegetarian dishes. seasonalstepped produce. into We pride Wednesdays only, treat yourselves to our popular Chef’s Select - ‘trust the chef’, delivering a wonderful surprise of dish Italian village of bygone years.

Enjoy a long leisurely lunch on the decking, discovering and tasting a variety of flavours from Chef’s menu designed to

You’re in the top 10% of restaurants worldwide. Congratulations to: The Studio Bistro

BIS Lunch Wed - S Bookings www.thestudiobistro.co P 08 9756

GAL Open 10am Wed - M Open 7 days during school ho www.thestudiogallery.co P 08 9756Y

7 Marrinup Drive, Yallinguo

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Guide to:

Workshops & Masterclasses With an abundance of workshops on offer, make a weekend of it and unleash your creative side. Treat yourself to an unforgettable experience, celebrate that special milestone with your nearest and dearest, or choose one as an inspirational gift for a loved one.

CREATIVE PURSUITS Margaret River Printmaking Indulging your creative senses beside a warm fireplace and learning the art of printmaking is a genuine soul-fulfilling winter experience. Francesco (Frankie) Geronazzo studied fine arts in the printmaking epicentre – Bologna in Italy. He’s skilled in all things from etching, lino printing, silk screening, and wood cuts but will start beginners off with mono-printing from a gelli plate, experimenting with colours and shapes naturally found in the Margaret River bushland. The process is relaxing and fun – and leaving with some artwork you can frame up or turn into gift cards is a pretty satisfying outcome. Clearly an Italian with a love for the finer things, Frankie offers wine and snacks with the experience. His passion for nature is shared through the elements and materials he uses in the lesson

Where great food and art come together...

Welcome to the The Studio Gallery & Bistro - an inviting, light filled, contemporary art gallery set alongside a licensed, award-winning restau The gallery represents leading Australian artists, showcasing a variety of artworks and exhibitions year round. Please check our website for

Combining international and local culinary experience, Head Chef Chris Mitchell and his team take inspiration from our beautiful region with seasonal produce. We pride ourselves on having a varied menu which includes creative vegetarian dishes. Wednesdays only, treat yourselves to our popular Chef’s Select - ‘trust the chef’, delivering a wonderful surprise of dishes and flavour. Booki Enjoy a long leisurely lunch on the decking, discovering and tasting a variety of flavours from Chef’s menu designed to share.

You’re in the top 10% of restaurants worldwide.

GALLERY Open 10am Wed - Monday www.thestudiogallery.com.au P 08 9756 6371

Congratulations to: The Studio Bistro

BISTRO Lunch W Boo Lunch Wed - Sunday www.thestudiob Bookings online P 0 www.thestudiobistro.com.au Open 10am W Open 7 days during sch P 08 9756 6164 www.thestudioga

7 Marrinup Drive, Yallingup WA

7 Marrinup Drive, Y

– and he can even show you how to produce pigments from tree bark, and create your own etching tools from sticks and rope. It’s an allround comforting and inspirational experience. Course times vary so by appointment is best. Tip: For a full weekend of experiencing art in the heart of Margaret River, stop by JahRoc Galleries to browse designer furniture and fine art. Or check out John Miller Design bespoke jeweller. Both are on Margaret River’s main street.

THE PERFECT BLEND Clairault Streicker Looking for a fun and educational way to learn about wine? Become a winemaker for the day with an interactive wine blending experience at Clairault Streicker. Their expert team will guide you through the wine blending process, helping you choose the right combination of flavours to match your taste. Measure, mix and taste the wines before bottling your new-found blend to take home. Celebrating a special milestone? Extend your

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masterclass to include a 3-course lunch and paired wine tasting. The perfect excuse for a long lunch with vineyard views. Yahava Koffeeworks Coffee aficionados – let Yahava Koffeeworks take you on an incredible taste adventure. Sample coffees, chocolates and other delights from exotic lands and far away locations. In a hands-on approach, you will learn to brew their current Specialty Estate through three different methods and understand how to taste it. Their expert team will help you discover a coffee you really love, then take home a batch of coffee you helped roast. An hour and a half of gastronomic fun – perfect for a group of friends. Giniversity Master the art of blending spirits with a fun and interactive workshop at Giniversity, led by the experts at Margaret River Distilling Co. Giniversity’s ethos is all about innovation – experimenting with exotic and native botanicals to craft unique recipes.

Unleash your creativity by mixing and matching botanicals like a master distiller. You’ll learn the origins of Gin, then create your own bespoke blend to bottle and take home. The masterclasses are popular so book well in advance.

HANDS ON Vasse Virgin Learn how to create beautiful, natural perfumes at Vasse Virgin in Wilyabrup. For over 20 years Vasse Virgin has created chemicalfree skin and body care products. Receive hands-on tuition from their highly trained staff on the art of natural perfumery. Craft your own signature fragrance using notes from pure essential oils. Treat yourself or share this indulgent experience with a group of friends. Yallingup Cheese Cheese lovers rejoice the un-brie-lieveable workshops at Yallingup Cheese Company. Artisan cheesemaker, Alana Langworthy

Cheese lovers rejoice the un-brie-lieveable workshops at Yallingup Cheese Company. Below: Sourdough classes at One Table Farm are an immersive way to experience the region in the winter months. Opposite: Book into a rewarding winemaking workshop at Clairault Streicker

runs the hands-on element hosting monthly workshops on how to make Marinated Feta, Brie, Camembert and Mozzarella. Milk is sourced from local dairies to produce a range of small batch, hand crafted Goat and organic cowsmilk cheeses. The small classes allow plenty of time for questions and allows Alana to spend time with each participant. On the day you’ll learn how to make delicious artisan cheese to take home to enjoy. Nothing gets feta than this. One Table Farm Tim and Cree at One Table Farm run a select range of workshops including paddock to plate farm food experiences through to sourdough classes for all levels of experience. “We aim to teach about sourcing food, how it grows and how to cook it. In many ways, it is back to basics.” Their courses are hands-on, interactive and fun, with participants finishing the session with new skills and an appreciation for using fresh, seasonal produce to not only create delicious meals but also reconnect to the source of our food.

Experience the Icons of Howard Park

A different way to taste, at Howard Park Cellar door and wine chapel | 543 Miamup Rd, Cowaramup, WA 6284 Book online today at howardparkwines.com.au

Early in 2020, award winning photographer Russell Ord had a few photographic jobs put on hold due to the COVID-19 lockdowns. Surfing for exercise was still allowed and with a bit of spare time on his hands, Russell naturally found himself down at Surfer’s Point in Margaret River, surfing and snapping photos of the locals both in and out of the water. Some insightful images quickly emerged, and after some discussion with fellow surfer Mick Scott, came the idea of a book. Now complete, Main Break isn’t a who’s who of surfing or a history of the place. It is simply a snapshot of the culture and the people whose lives revolve around surfing at this iconic location. In this photo essay, we explore some of the images captured by Ord which represent more reflective, quiet moments and a bit of nostalgia that is endearingly West Australian. Copies of the book are available for purchase at the Margaret River Bookshop, Margaret River Visitor’s Centre, or at russellordphoto.com

Main Break PHOTO ESSAY

IMAGES Russell Ord | WORDS Mick Scott

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Since the late 1950s, the waves at Margaret River have drawn people from everywhere around the globe. The town has transformed from a sleepy outpost with dairy and timber enterprises to a thriving community based around wine, tourism and surfing. The wave has had a lot to do with this evolution. It has drawn all sorts of people into the area. Most have been determined to build their skills so as to be able to live and work in proximity to this great surf break. It’s a powerful, consistent, physically and mentally demanding and energizing wave; a naturally beautiful playground slap bang in the middle of Margaret River’s social world.

It’s a powerful, consistent, physically and mentally demanding and energizing wave ...

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Bob Pett, who became addicted to surfing Marg’s with his mate Ian Cairns in the late 1970s observes that “Margies is fairly unique because of the number of long- term regular surfers who have made surfing this break and the nearby reefs a focus of their lives, and crafted their livelihoods to accommodate it.” Builder Mark Chadwick arrived in 1979. “It was six foot and glassy, I’ll never forget it. You could see the reef, I couldn’t believe it, there was hardly anyone out. It stayed etched in my brain and I came back six years later to live.” He’s still here, building houses and still surfing at Mainbreak. Mark is just one example of the many surfers whose lives revolve around this one break, whose careers have been invented or morphed to allow them to surf here as often as possible.

Sip Your Way around

Small Scale Wineries

The Margaret River Region Windows Estate Organic/Critically Acclaimed has many great little Certified /Petit Eco Cabin wineries to check out. Here Windows Estate routinely gain stratospheric are three to try who do wines scores from Halliday and Ray Jordan and also run an award-winning cellar door. But things a little differently… behind the accolades Windows Estate is a young WORDS Fergal Gleeson

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family (Chris and Jo Davies) farming organically. “Our lifestyle is very much based around leaving a small footprint,” Jo tells me. She feels organic winemaking flows through to the quality in the glass “one of the comments that we hear most is how clean and pure our wines are.” Windows Estate wines are distinctive with lots of detail and complexity. Jo attributes

their quality to Chris’s meticulous work in the vineyard. “There are no shortcuts,” she says. Many of their wines sell out quickly. While their racy Chardonnays have gained a lot of attention the quality of the wines across Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin, Semillon and the classic Bordeaux red varietals is jaw droppingly impressive. Singles and couples can get off the grid and stay at The Petit Eco Cabin. Made from the fallen trees on the family farm, the cabin captures views of the trees, vines and night skies. Picnic baskets, Organic Farm & Vineyard Tours and Cheese & Wine Tastings are some of the options for visitors to Windows Estate. More at windowsestate.com

Right: Blind Corner offers a range of unique white blends. Opposite: Family is at the heart of Windows Estate.

Blind Corner Experimental/Biodynamic/Indie Blind Corner was set up Ben Gould and wife Naomi. Ben tells the origin story “Naomi and I dreamt up Blind Corner while travelling around Europe in a red builder’s van. We were trying to visit every wine region and surf break in Western Europe. When we came home it was to blend the old-world techniques we’d learned with newworld knowledge to create more ‘real’ wines.” ‘Real wines’ meant organic and biodynamic. “For us, organics and biodynamics is about building a healthy ecosystem. We don’t manage our vineyard to just get grapes. We want to regenerate and constantly improve this land and believe you can taste the life in the glass.” Blind Corner have an ‘indie’ and experimental approach to winemaking. “The range of flavours and wine styles you can get from the humble grape is incredible. We love playing around in the winery with different techniques to create wines that are interesting and often unexpected,” he tells me. Some favourites include their skin contact whites- Governo, their Sauvignon Blanc, their Pinot Grigio and the ‘Orange in Colour’, a blend of white varietals. The cellar door is a rustic and relaxed place to hang out. Apart from tastings you might even get a tour with Ben of the winery, veggie patch, Hippie Chicks (chickens) and beehives. More at blindcorner.com.au

Fraser Gallop

Gralyn Wines Great Fortified Wines Gralyn was established in 1975 is now run by the second generation- Annette Baxter and husband Scott. Annette laughs “I started young, Mum (Merilyn) would often present me with a flight of dry reds or fortifieds in the morning to do a sensory evaluation with her with my breakfast. I was renowned for never making the school bus on time!” Winemaker Scott explains how fortified wines are made differently- “We add spirit to

the base wine which in turn stops the ferment and ‘fortifies’ the wine. The two main styles of fortifieds are our Tawny/Muscat which age in barrels and our Vintage Port style, which is made from fruit from one particular year and is bottled early to age.” “It’s official, there are no rules. Our White Chocolate and Coffee Fortified are served chilled, and sometimes poured over a favourite desert. Anything goes!” Scott laughs. Bartenders are using fortifieds in cocktails. “Fortifieds are so versatile and can be

enjoyed whilst young and fresh or can be cellared to reach their full potential.” Apart from regular tastings, there are bookable experiences including back vintages of fortified and table wine and birth year wines. Treat yourself! More at gralyn.com.au Other small wineries to taste at include Whicher Ridge, with their unique Sensory Garden and Mr Barval, tiny production but sky-high standards.

A landscape where vineyards thrive (Gralyn Estate Wines captured by drone).

Don’t want to Drive? Some fully customisable, private tour operators that you could choose from include: • Belair Affair • A Touch of Glass Tours and Charters • Cape To Cape Wine Tours & Charters • Esquire Classic Charters • Go In Style Luxury Transport • South West Driving Services • Gran Via Tours & Transfers • South West Ride Share • MyDriver Margaret River

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@SWINGSYALLINGUP

Days

on the

Cape to Cape

WORDS Sophie Mathewson

THE PHYSICAL ACT of walking, done with repetition over a number of days, is a calming experience. Away from the distracting aspects of modern life, it offers time to notice, to listen, and to focus on one singular negotiating path forward. The Cape to Cape Track is truly one of the most exceptional multi-day walks in the world. The hike is predominantly coastal terrain, and captures the region’s unique maritime history, beautiful landscapes, and seasonal surprises such as wildflowers, whales, black cockatoos, and lizards. For a multi-day hike, the Cape to Cape is do-able in stages for walkers at most levels. Keep in mind though that it’s always important to plan carefully, carry enough clean water, and communicate your plan with others. A lot of folks walk the Cape to Cape from north to south, but there’s a good chance you’ll get a southerly wind behind you, so some experienced hikers suggest going from south to north. If you have an itch to tick the hike off your bucket list, this six day breakdown might give you the inspiration you need. It’s by no means definitive, and it’s advisable to check in with tour operators on what sort of hike would work best for you.

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Day 1 Cape Leeuwin – Hamelin Bay (24.72km) Cape Leeuwin is the most south western tip of Australia. It marks the mapping point where the Pacific and Indian Oceans meet. It’s a place of perilous maritime history with many ships wrecked off the coastline before the lighthouse was built in 1896. Beginning the walk at Cape Leeuwin sets you off onto a track of true wilderness. Cosy Corner bay exposes white limestone rocks and sapphire blue waters. Look out for the endangered hooded plover bird on this stretch too. Hamelin Bay is a welcome first stop for the night where you can camp at the Holiday Park. It’s protected from the wind and the remnants of a wharf built last century tell a story of the once thriving timber industry – when logs were shipped to London. There is a family of stingrays in the bay, who although friendly, are best observed by simply watching and not touching.

Day 2 Hamelin Bay – Contos (21.1km) Another particularly scenic stretch, this part of the coast will take you past Boranup Beach (which involves 7km of beach walking) and

onto the cliffs at Contos. Where the majestic karri forest once stood thriving, travelling this part of the walk might reveal bushfire blackened terrain from the 2021 Calgardup fire. Luckily, the bushfire was a slow burn and didn’t damage the top canopy of forest, so it

will be quite wonderful to watch the resilience of the Australian bush regenerate and regrow over the next 3-4 years. Wildflowers bloom significantly after bushfires too so keep an eye out for pink fairy orchids and hardenbergia in the burnt heath. Also take notice of the

Quality Integrity Sustainability

www.cullenwines.com.au Open 7 days for tastings 1oam - 4.3opm. Open Friday - Tuesday for lunch. E: tastingsandsales@cullenwines.com.au

Telephone: 9755 5277 4323 Caves Road, 45 Wilyabrup Western Australia 628o

succulent pigface. It has bright pink flowers and can be eaten, the white flesh being sweet and salty to taste.

Day 3 Contos – Prevelly (19km) Contos to Prevelly will take you past Redgate Beach where you’ll start to notice signs of life a little more. You may pass beachgoers on the track or see surfers in the swell. The limestone ridge at the south end of Prevelly will take you down to the creekline of Boodjidup Brook. It’s a pleasant walk along white sand that will meet up with the township of Prevelly where you could treat yourself to a pie from the General Store and a well facilitated campsite for the night.

Day 4

Day 5

Prevelly – Gracetown (18km)

Gracetown – Injidup (22.8km)

This section of the track is popular with day hikers, so you’ll start to pass a few more people on the track. If the river is flowing, be prepared to get wet when walking across the Rivermouth. The beach coves north of here, Kilcarnup and Joey’s Nose, are popular with families teaching kids to surf in the shallow breaks. You’ll meander roughly 5.5km through sand dunes that will take you past the Meekadarbee Falls then just before Gracetown, you’ll spot the historic settlement of Ellensbrook on Mokidup. The white-washed oasis has picnic tables under shaded trees and is a reliable pit stop.

Gracetown has had its fair share of tragedies with a fatal shark attack and a cliff collapse rocking the community in the not-so-distant past. But setbacks have only made the people here stronger, and you might notice friendly interactions and encounters along this stretch of the coast. Be prepared for a bit of rock hopping north of Gracetown. Amongst the rocks, you can keep your eyes out for abalone. The local delicacy are not actually shellfish, but reef dwelling marine snails, and are served in restaurants throughout the region. From the Wilyabrup cliffs, look out for whales breaching at sea between July to December. A special part of the walk in the wetter months, is Quinninup Falls. It’s a popular day hike so be

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Want to leave the planning to someone else? Book in with a tour operator who can guide you along the Cape. Check in with Cape to Cape Explorer Tours, Walk into Luxury or Edgewalkers. Further Reading: Get a copy of the Cape to Cape Track Guidebook by Jane Scott and Ray Forma, and the official Trail Map Pack at the Margaret River Visitor’s Centre

sure to stick to the tracks if there is a lot of foot traffic, as there are ongoing rehabilitation efforts here to protect the dunes. The area also has cultural significance to the Wadandi People so be sure to leave nothing but footprints.

Respect the land: Be sure to pay attention to signage along the way. Some spots along the Cape to Cape Track are culturally and environmentally sensitive areas.

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Day 6 Injidup – Cape Naturaliste (23.56km) The last stretch reveals spectacular granite outcrops at Canal Rocks, and the kilometre from Smiths Beach to the coastal hamlet of Yallingup is a truly rewarding vista. You’ll glimpse surfers and dolphins in the swell, and melaleuca trees amongst the scrub on land. Treat yourself to a fancy meal in Yallingup (and fancy on the Cape to Cape means good pub grub). Hunt out Caves House Hotel which was built in 1903 at a cost of £2,729 to service early tourists visiting Ngilgi Cave. Towards the end of the hike, you’ll encounter Sugar Loaf Rock – a popular natural landmark for photographers. The Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse is a mighty setting for celebration after the six-day hike. Finish with a welldeserved meal and a pint at Eagle Bay Brewery just down the road.

SOAP FACTORY & WORKSHOPS 135 Puzey Road, Wilyabrup WA | Ph. (08) 9755 6111

Open daily (bookings essential for workshops)

www.vassevirgin.com.au

Monitoring the Mysteries of

Migrating Whales Migrating

Every year along Margaret River Region’s coastline, some of the largest animals on the planet travel south to Antarctic waters. This epic whale migration peaks between Whales July and December. Marine scientist, Daniella Hanf, says Geographe Bay plays a vital role in their journey. WORDS: Sarah Robinson

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IMAGE Scott Slawinski

DANIELLA IS A Principal Scientist at 02 Marine. Her speciality is marine fauna investigations and environmental management. She’s also a board member of Project ORCA and a researcher with the Cetacean Ecology Behaviour and Evolution Lab at Flinders University. “Geographe Bay is an important resting area for three whale species; the southern right whale, the blue whale and the humpback whale,” she says. “For these reasons, Geographe Bay is recognised at state, national and international level as an important whale habitat.” According to Daniella, southern right whales are most likely to be seen in July and August, with mums and calves around three kilometres from the coast, in waters less than ten metres deep. “September and October are an important time for humpback whales,” she says. “Blue whales are found furthest offshore, usually around November and December.” Killer whales have also been sighted along the Western Australian coastline, and have even been encountered at Geographe Bay. “Killer whales are actually the largest member of the dolphin family,” Daniella says. “Occasional sightings have been documented over the past ten years off Margaret River and Dunsborough, usually between August and October; there was a recent sighting close to the Geographe Yacht Club, near to shore.” Right now, research is being conducted by Geographe Marine Research into whale migration through the south west, to better understand migratory patterns, as well as the impact of human interference, climate change

and food sources on whale populations in the region. Although Daniella is not directly involved with the research group, she says the work they are doing is vitally important to understanding how whales passing through the region can be better protected. “Unfortunately there are major threats to whales in WA, such as entanglement in fishing gear, cumulative underwater noise from development activities, vessel strikes and harassment from well-minded people, who get too close in boats, underwater, or with drones,” she says. All of these activities have a big impact on mothers and their calves, who need to rest in order to regulate their energy. “If mothers and calves avoid resting areas, the mothers won’t have the energy to nurse their young and protect them from predators along the

way, which means their health and potential for survival will suffer,” Daniella says. In 1978 the Cheynes Beach Whaling Company in Albany became the last whaling station in Australia to close. In 1979, an anti-whaling policy was officially adopted in Australia, which put an end to whaling for good. Humpback whale populations were hit hard by whaling in the south west, but Daniella says numbers have rapidly increased since the ban came into force. “The southern right whale population is bouncing back too,” Daniella says. “There have been more and more sightings in areas we haven’t seen in decades.” Urgent research is also being conducted into how climate change could impact whale food sources in the Antarctic. If krill populations decline, this will likely affect the whales that pass along this part of the coast.

IMAGE Tim Campbell

The good news is that regular people, without a scientific background, can do their bit to help protect the whales. “Give animals space, especially during sensitive times of resting and around mother-calf pairs,” says Daniella. “And if you’re boating, ‘go slow for those below’.” Daniella also recommends staying at least a hundred metres from whales when boating, and not approaching them from behind or in front. “It’s best to approach whales parallel to their direction of travel,” she says. If you do want to see a whale, booking a tour with a licensed tour agency is probably the safest way to do so. They will ensure the vessel stays a safe distance from the whales. Plus, they know the best spots and times to see them. Whale watching from land is also a responsible way to admire these creatures, as there is no chance of affecting them in their natural habitat. Daniella says the Cape Naturaliste Whale Lookout is a good spot for seeing blue whales towards the end of the year. Or head to Augusta and take a walk around Flinders Bay on a clear winters day. If you’d like to discover more about the whales that pass through the region, Daniella recommends heading to Busselton Jetty, where you may be lucky enough to see southern right and humpback whales in season.

Get out in the Whale-Derness and book a whale watching tour • Naturaliste Charters whales-australia.com.au • All Sea Charters whalewatchingcharters.com.au

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•

Legend Charters legendcharters.net.au

•

Whale Watch Western Australia whalewatchwesternaustralia.com

Estate & Accommodation Captivating, one-of-a-kind accommodation Lovingly restored the Yungarra Estate is now a truly beautiful style retreat. A captivating, one-of-a-kind retreat, only five minutes from Dunsborough, Yungarra Estate offers secluded, luxury accommodation, within a relaxing, hilltop rural oasis. Surrounded by native bush, a working vineyard and stunning Geographe Bay, the accommodation includes a Main Lodge, a Log Cabin and several cottages, set over a sprawling rural property. Situated midway between Dunsborough and Yallingup, Yungarra Estate enjoys unparalleled, breathtaking views over the estate’s 25-acre vineyard and Geographe Bay, regarded as the most spectacular in the South West region. You will wake up to beautiful, life-affirming sunrises, breaking across the hinterland. At day’s close sitting on your private deck with a glass of wine, the moon will rise over the bay with the twinkling lights of Dunsborough beckoning in the distance. One of the few South West resort style retreats situated on a working vineyard, you may catch the pruners and pickers tending to the vines and harvesting the Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot, Tempranillo, Chenin Blanc and Semillon. As well as the vineyard, Yungarra Estate comprises a further 25 acres of beautiful, undulating natural vegetation featuring a wonderful creek line walking trail. You will be immersed in nature and mesmerizing local wildlife, including local kangaroo families and the most amazingly iridescent blue wrens. You are just a short walk to fresh bread at the Yallingup Woodfire Bakery and a short drive to the best beaches, craft breweries, wineries, art galleries and restaurants in this region. All of the accommodation at Yungarra Estate has been fully renovated and upgraded by new owners to a very high standard and represents a unique, luxury accommodation experience. The Accommodation includes: • 1 four-bedroom stone Lodge (“The Lodge”) which sleeps 12 • 1 three-bedroom brick cottage (“Cottage 3”) which sleeps 6 A captivating, one of a kind retreat, only five minutes from Dunsborough, Yungarra Estate offers secluded, luxury • 2 x one-bedroom brick cottages (“Cottages 1 and 2”) each accommodation, within a relaxing, hilltop rural oasis. Surrounded by native bush, a working vineyard and stunning cottage sleeps 2-3 with an interconnecting door. Geographe Bay, the accommodation includes a Main Lodge, a Log Cabin and several cottages, set over a sprawling • 1 x one- bedroom log cabin (“The Log Cabin”) which sleeps 2 rural property.

25 Atherden Court, QUEDJIDUP swescapes.com.au stay@swescapes.com.au

Busselton: Bay and Bounty Trail Stripped back and relaxed, classic family memories are made here. Family holiday legacies are made here. The classic elements remain unchanged: the crystalline, protected waters of Geographe Bay. The foreshore lined with the iconic Norfolk Pines. The historic Busselton Jetty, cherished by generations of locals and visitors who have walked along it, jumped off it, snorkelled, dived, fished from it. The nostalgia here is palpable, harking back to a simpler time – one of free time. Naturally, the bay is front and centre on this trail but scratch a bit deeper into the bountiful hinterland and you’ll find more experiences that hold onto Busselton’s essence and give back even more. The calm of the coastline is paralleled by the adventures found inland, not to mention the quality beer being crafted locally. Expect genuine grassroots cellar doors, one of West Australia’s top produce and artisan markets, surprising adventures and unforgettable family holiday memories.

DRIVE YOUR STORY Get side-tracked in beautiful places with self-drive trail guides for the naturally adventurous. See more of what matters with these recommended routes to take in your own time. WORDS: Emily Kurys - Romer

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Dunsborough to Yallingup: Graze & Bathe Trail Let the coastline set the scene for you to savour, sip & indulge. Welcome to the ‘Cape Naturaliste’ bubble – your own private island in the south west. This tiny corner of the world is flanked by the turquoise waters of secluded, lagoon-like bays on one side and dramatic, granite-lined surfbreaks on the other. The canvas well and truly sets the scene for coast-to-coast indulgent living between Dunsborough and Yallingup. The daily schedule is unhurried. It looks like a surf or a swim, a hike on the Cape rewarded by a long lunch, an afternoon of sourcing gourmet produce, and finally, seeing out the day with a lazy glass in hand at your winery or brewery of choice. You can experience the Cape region intimately, or join those who regularly return, calling it their own retreat - their home-away-from-home - albeit more spectacular.

Margaret River: Surf & Source Trail Feel the current of the Margaret River – the land’s life source. Like the beginning and end of something much greater, the fresh waters of the Margaret River flow through land, forest and out to sea, sharing life and vitality to all who encounter it. It is a magic felt in the earth and the people. The experiences are as varied and unique as

MARGARET RIVER

EST. 1967

MARGARET RIVER’S FOUNDING WINE ESTATE TASTING BAR - WINE LOUNGE - RESTAURANT - MUSEUM - ART GALLERY - TOURS OPEN DAILY 10AM - 5PM Caves Road (Cnr Tom Cullity Drive), Cowaramup WA 6284 Phone 9756 5000 Restaurant Reservations 9756 5050

Augusta: Caves & Coastline Trail Follow your adventurous spirit to the most southwestern point of Australia, where two oceans meet. Augusta marks one of the rugged points of Australia; a final landmark before a vast southern unknown, and a Cape where two oceans collide. It’s a place to get lost, get wild and return to nature. Old knowledge is everywhere. Whether it be in the sacred spaces of the First Nations Wadandi People; in the ancient caves, Boranup Forest, cliffs and coast; through to the intuition of the fishing fleets and abalone divers based in town. It is present at the historic Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse that has shepherded many a passing maritime vessel; or with the generational farming families, some who are bringing old wisdom of livestock, permaculture and vine to a new audience. The forest, the coast and the Blackwood River, all raw and alive, contributing to a renewed, pared back perspective.

the inhabitants. But that’s the common thread in Margaret River: a connection to place and a contribution to the culture, no matter your background. It’s an area of character and characters. Here, legacy wine producers rub shoulders with old salty surfers, tree changers, nature-lovers, enterprising families and artists. Visitors come to grasp a slice of this life, but many stay to add their own thread to the intricate tapestry. Trickle, current, vine, forest, rivermouth, ocean. Read more about the Surf & Source Trail on page 84

Gracetown to Cowaramup: Harvest & Vines Trail Connect to the generosity of the earth, and those who are dedicated to her. Almost like a golden triangle of winemaking, the humble area between Gracetown and Cowaramup, known as Wilyabrup, is where locals and visitors go to live like kings. The land is bountiful and giving. It’s the region’s powerhouse of vineyards, farming, working families and artisan production. Once a land of milk (literally), there’s now honey and wine. The landscape is one of rolling

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fields, hay bales and lush vineyards bordered by virgin native bushland. Those who visit have no choice but to witness the seasons first-hand and are compelled to meet the makers, see the production and sample the fruits of land, labour and love. It’s like all roads lead to this special pilgrimage. Old secrets of winemaking, brewing, distilling and tempering are whispered here. Of course, days end at the coast, and in this case, it’s Gracetown’s Cowaramup Bay, where the sun sets into the water. Find maps and guides online at Driveyourstory.com

wa.gov.au/rsc

DON’T IGNORE THE YAWNING SIGNS

80% of Fatigue related crashes are on country roads. Take a break every 2 hours and swap drivers regularly. 55

elegant and creative way. Adrian has made that dream a reality, and much of his work utilises the majestic timbers of WA’s south west. You’ll find his studio on Treeton Road in the Cowaramup LIA. Cowaramup’s Light Industrial Area is also host to many other Margaret River artists, and features prominently in the annual Open Studios event.

BUSSELTON Origins Market Recently opened - Origins Market, is an unassuming delight with fresh produce, gourmet eateries and local artisan products all in one place. Pop in for a morning coffee and stock up on supplies for your stay, or get along to one of their regular events. Foodie Friday has tastings of wine, ciders, craft beer and spirits, and Makers Workshops held weekly, have a range of creative workshops.

BGs Farmstand For over 25 years BG’s farmstand has been Busselton’s go-to fresh produce. It’s cherished among locals, farmers, and tourists for their top-quality produce and traditional customer service. They support local farmers and artisans and stock in season, low-mile foods, all the while doing their best to help others in the community.

MARGARET RIVER Dormilona Cellar Door Dormilona is a cellar door in Margaret River’s LIA, and their kind of wine tasting experience is unlike anything else you’ll experience at the

Corynne’s Soaps

What’s Hiding in the Region’s LIAs WORDS: Tom De Souza

TUCKED AWAY IN every town in the Margaret River Region is a light industrial area. As the name suggests, the LIAs, as they are known, are a hive of industry. But you might also be surprised to note that in recent years a number of trendy new venues and services have also popped up in the region’s LIAs, with many of them helping the semi-industrial areas to become as vital and hip as the main parts of town, with plenty of hidden gems tucked away. Here’s a few things worth putting on your radar.

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COWARAMUP Treeton Fine Wood Studio Adrian van den Ouweland builds fine timber furniture right in the heart of the Margaret River Region, much of it taking place at his studio in Cowaramup’s Light Industrial Area. He first became fascinated with woodwork as a young boy in Holland, when he found himself fascinated with the beautiful grain patterns on split blocks of wood he would chop for the fire place. He dreamt that instead of burning that timber, it could be used in a more

Nathan Day Design

region’s myriad of wineries. They invite you through the doors of their little house of wine to learn about how the magic happens, discover the new vintage direct from the vessel, and taste new releases from the bottle. Cellar Door tastings are by appointment only, so contact ahead to book.

VASSE Nathan Day Design Tucked away in the Vasse LIA is an unassuming award-winning furniture designer. Although Nathan Day Design’s workshop is small, they’re clientele is anything but. The Designer furniture maker has worked with some of Australia’s leading architects and luxury builders and have custom-built works for the likes of Apple and Louis Vuitton. At time of press, the designer is completing a project for the Australian Embassy in Washington DC (ahem, no biggie). For visitors to the region wanting to peruse the gallery or discuss a custom-piece, Nathan Day Design create many residential works too, all with a focus on craftsmanship that will last generations within a family. These are timeless pieces that speak of the region in which they were built.

The Sophisticated Beast The Sophisticated Beast are one of the Margaret River Region’s newest and fastest growing breweries, and their operation is centred in Vasse’s LIA. They’re a small brewery who think big and don’t dabble in the mundane, and it’s not just beer on the menu either; they also produce oyster mushrooms and cold brew coffee for the local farmers markets.

Cheeky Monkey HQ Taphouse Popular Margaret River Region brewery, Cheeky Monkey, have a lesser known but equally special venue in the heart of the Vasse Industrial Area. It’s aesthetic fits perfectly with the location – stainless steel exposed vats and barrels with casual seating in an industrial shed environment. The usual core range of Cheeky Monkey beers are on tap paired well with pizzas and delicious bar snacks.

DUNSBOROUGH Corrynne’s Soaps Corrynne’s Soaps offer some of the finest natural skincare products in the south west. They make all their soaps, creams, scrubs, and oils using good old-fashioned plant-based recipes. They care more about the contents than expensive packaging, and use ingredients that aren’t harmful to anyone or anything. You’ll find them on Dunsborough Lakes Drive in Dunsborough’s LIA.

Join us to experience CinefestOZ, Australia’s premier destination film festival, set against the stunning backdrop of Western Australia’s iconic Margaret River region. With a huge range of exciting events happening in the Shire of Augusta Margaret River, there’s something for everyone. Highlights include; CinefestOZ Short Film Awards, feature premieres, In Conversation events and so much more. Head to cinefestoz.com to secure your tickets to CinefestOZ today!

CinefestOZ is held in various locations. 24-28 August 2022. Visit cinefestoz.com Bookings: cinefestoz.com Follow us on socials! @cinefestoz and tag #cinefestoz Tag us @CinefestOZ 57 @cinefestoz and tag #cinefestoz

Sweet Beats: Discover the Region’s Music Scene WORDS: Tom De Souza

The Margaret River Region has long been a hub of live music and the event schedule is at full swing all year round. Every venue offers something different, and these are the kinds of vibes you can expect to find at some of Margaret River Region’s finest.

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Below: Moonlighter at Settlers Tavern

CLANCY’S FISH PUB

Dunsborough Clancy’s Fish Pub in Dunsborough offers a soulful, groovy experience to the music lover. The music is a little different to what you might find in other pubs about the place, with worldly, up-tempo acts like Tijuana Cartel, didgeridoo artist Si Mullimby, and Grace Barbe regularly making Clancy’s a stop on their touring schedule. Clancy’s regularly host artists like this in their indoor, red curtained music room and dancefloor at the back of the pub. There’s also live music every Sunday, and it’s home to a plenty of local favourites too, like Boom! Bap! Pow! and Brayden Sibbald.

CAVES HOUSE

Yallingup Caves House hold live music across the year, when the classic Caves House Sunday session draws a crowd. They’re huge supporters of local music, with many regular features from artists like Pete Mathews, and Katie White. The music venue is outdoors with a stage in the beer garden, and a backdrop of the classic old Yallingup top shop. Music here is a late afternoon and early evening kind of affair. In peak holiday times, the crowd sometimes spills out into the beautiful outdoor gardens surrounding the old hotel.

SETTLERS TAVERN

Margaret River Settlers is an iconic south west music venue. Having been around since 1977, they have been a pioneer of Margaret River’s live music scene, and been duly recognised as such. ‘The Tav’, as it’s affectionately known, were awarded APRA Music Awards Licencee of the Year in 2018, and received Hall of Fame status at the Australian Hospitality Awards after winning the ‘Best Entertainment Venue’ award three years running, from 2013-15. They host over 150 live acts ever year, with live music on the main stage every Friday and Saturday night, and outdoors on the sunny veranda on Sundays. There is a wide range of music here, from local bands to national stars like Peter Garrett, Birds of Tokyo, and San Cisco all having taken the stage. The Tav are real supporters of the live music industry, with many of their gigs free to punters, unless otherwise specified.

THE RIVER

Margaret River The River is, arguably, the region’s primary music venue, and regularly hosts some of the hottest bands and artists playing in the area. It’s a more intimate venue, with a dining room in the restaurant and a large undercover stage area where you’ll find the music out the back. They’ve hosted artists like Thelma Plum and

Above: Don’t miss Strings Attached WA Guitar Festival held in October. Below: Louise Marsh and Doxy with Swing Dancers, Clancy’s

The Teskey Brothers, but one of The River’s biggest selling points is the classic acts it brings to town, with 2021 seeing performers like Ed Kuepper, and The Whitlams. This really is a place for the live music lovers, and offers just about everything, new and old.

MARGERT RIVER HEART

Margaret River The Margaret River Region has long been the cultural and arts hub of the south west, and in 2019 this Margaret River HEART facility was purpose built to provide a central feature for that hub. It’s Margaret River’s newest and biggest venue, with a huge concert hall that can host 1100 people. Music events here are mostly a sit-down affair, and sees a wide variety of shows, from acts like Mama Kin, musical theatre shows like The World of Musicals, and large festival events.

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At Cape Mentelle, you’ll learn the nuances of the some of the region’s best varietals.

Go Beyond the Cellar Door

Immersive Winery Experiences WORDS: Emily Kurys-Romer

A growing number of wine estates, owners, winemakers and sommeliers are personally welcoming visitors into their vineyards (and in on their secrets) in a swathe of new, comprehensive, the-envy-of-your-friends experiences, which means discovering beyond the cellar door and only doing a handful of wineries, but really, really in depth…Like, personal host, seated tastings, behind the scenes tours and multi-course degustation, all-day-affair-style in depth. Or organic farm walks, shaking hands with the owners, hearing about their motivations and winemaking philosophies over a glass of wine kind of in depth. Not to mention overflowing bubbles, chocolates, nature walks, elaborate picnics, DIY wine blending, and cheese platters… there is a lifetime’s worth of escapades and encounters. Start thinking of cellar doors as Margaret River’s gateway into the wine world (just remember to book ahead). Here’s a top five to get you started.

Cape Mentelle Cape Mentelle is conveniently one of the closest wineries to Margaret River itself. Its sprawling grounds play host to the much-loved annual twilight movie season, and its history lies with local wine industry pioneer David Hohnen (who also established Cloudy Bay in New Zealand). It was one of the first wineries in the region to offer a Behind the Scenes Tour and Tasting to guests, which takes in the vines right out the front of the cellar door, plus the winery, its equipment, barrel halls and cellar. Guests have the option to add various inclusions onto this original tour, such as a private tasting in the ambient barrel hall, or a food and wine pairing of six wines and gourmet morsels featuring local produce – or take a picnic basket and wine flight outside onto the lawn to enjoy. Price range: $30 - $85pp Duration: 45 mins – 2 hours Perfect for: The wine curious. Learn the nuts and bolts of winemaking here.

Start thinking of cellar doors as Margaret River’s gateway into the wine world

Arlewood The good folks at Arlewood are owning the chocolate and wine pairing experience in Margaret River. The petite cellar door in the south of the region plays strongly into the Italian heritage of the owners with its wine range, bringing all the personality of the ‘Valtellina’ area into people’s glasses. Their La Bratta wine and chocolate experience has put Arlewood on the top hit lists of James Halliday and Gourmet Traveller WINE Magazine (ahem, no big deal). Two Italian-inspired vinos (a white and a red) are paired with specifically crafted morsels from local chocolatier Temper Temper, to surprise and delight. Price range: $20 pp Duration: 25 mins approx. Perfect for: Chocoholics, obviously.

Voyager Estate Opulence and Voyager Estate go hand-in-hand. There’s the signature red roses at the end of every vine, the ornate and manicured gardens, the traditional Cape Dutch architecture of the cellar door itself – and that’s before a drop of wine has touched your lips. Through the

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doors, the luxurious yet intimate Wine Room is the focal point of Voyager’s wine experiences. Options include the Estate Tour through the vineyard, winery and concluding at cellar door with a glass of wine and a cheese board; the Origins Tasting, exploring Margaret River’s key varietals of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon; or Voyager Unearthed for the ultimate lesson in wine appreciation, looking at the Estate’s organic farming and winemaking approach guided by the in-house sommelier. All experiences can be upgraded with four- or seven-course menus at the restaurant. Price range: $50 – $95 (excluding restaurant tasting menus) Duration: 1.5 hours – full day experience Perfect for: Hopeless romantics – of wine or otherwise. And sustainably conscious travellers to appreciate the wineries organic practices.

Howard Park Howard Park has a lot going for it. It’s a formidable producer of methode traditionelle (aka French-style) sparkling wine; it has a huge and diverse line-up of vino thanks to vineyards across the Margaret River and Great Southern

regions; and it has an ongoing collaboration with French winemaker Pascal Marchand in a cross-continental, cultural exchange of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Phew! In addition, behind the scenes of its architectural cellar door, lies the lesser-known Wine Chapel – a beautiful concrete and oak building with private vineyard terrace, a wine cellar museum, lounge room and grapevine chandeliers. It is here that the more magical vinous experiences truly happen. Visitors can choose from either a sparkling focused or a general premium wine tasting in a masterclass-style set-up, followed by a tasting platter to be enjoyed in private luxury. Price range: $120 pp (4 person minimum) Duration: 2 hours approx. Perfect for: Wine VIPs-to-be. Seclusion, sparkling, and splendour.

Glenarty Road Rustic charm is had in spades at Glenarty Road, just north of Augusta in Karridale. The multigenerational farming family-cum-winemakers (literally, the McDonald’s) deliver a good time in their timber and tin cabin cellar door, complete with wood fire, long table lunches and the odd

GOOD TIMES • LONG LUNCHES • FUNCTIONS

Above: It’s a farm and family affair at Glenarty Road. Top: Organic vineyards and Cape Dutch architecture collide at Voyager Estate to make for photo-perfect scenery.

sheep/cockatoo/doggy to pat. And their Farm and Feast tour definitely does what it says ‘on the box’ with a progressive wine tasting through the farm, exploring the vines, macadamias, hop vines and vegetable garden. Two tasting platforms have been set up en route to rest your (hardly) weary legs with a vino refresher. Finish with a farm-style feast at the restaurant to neatly bring together everything you’ve learned agri- and viticulturally on the tour. Price range: $120 pp Duration: 3 hours. Perfect for: Farmer wants a wine! Don your favourite overalls and farm boots and get down there.

This article was originally published on margaretriver.com and has been repurposed for print

WEDDINGS • ROMANTIC GETAWAYS

CAVES HOUSE HOTEL is ideally situated in the heart of the famous Margaret River Wine Region, and within walking distance of the famous Yallingup Beach. Winter is synonymous with cosy fireplaces, mulled wine, long lunches or dinners or romantic getaways. Come and experience our NEW WINTER MENU, beautiful accommodation, as well as our famous HIGH TEAS.

18 Yallingup Beach Rd, Yallingup Ph: 9750 1888 A/H: 9750 1830 caveshousehotelyallingup.com.au 63

Mammoth Cave: A Story of Regeneration WORDS & IMAGES: Holly Winkle

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AS SEEDS DESCEND to their secret life in the soil and birdsong returns to the forest, a trip to Mammoth Cave currently offers the rare opportunity to witness a landscape reinventing itself and the beauty of regeneration after fire. Bushfires have shaped Australia’s landscape for millions of years, providing many native species with the opportunity to regenerate. Just as the sun and the rain, fire is integral to the forest ecology and now is the time to experience Mammoth Cave like never before. Mammoth Cave is nestled in the heart of a region of outstanding natural richness – above and below ground. It is situated only 15-minutes south of Margaret River and explorers of all ages and abilities can discover and connect with nature.

Visiting Mammoth Cave With Children Mammoth Cave is the most easily accessible cave in the south west and an exciting adventure for families with young children. The

journey begins on an elevated boardwalk that leads you towards the entrance of the cave, where you are immediately immersed into the depths of the enormous first chamber. There’s no doubt that nature tells the best stories, and the stunning surroundings of the cave have been brought to life via an informative audio tour provided through an MP3 player, a big hit for the kids. The self-guided tour allows you to explore the cave at your own pace and the cool temperature, which remains surprisingly stable, hovering around 14 degrees throughout the year, is a welcome reprieve on a hot day. For budding young fossil hunters, Mammoth Cave is an opportunity to make childhood dreams come true. With over 10,000 fossils having once accumulated within the cave, young cave explorers can discover ancient Australian Megafauna fossils and search for the 50,000 year old ‘zygomaturus’ jawbone (a relative of today’s wombat and one of the largest marsupials that has ever lived!). As the boardwalks and staircases lead you through the enormity of the cave, you find yourself dwarfed, standing at the centre of a huge natural formation. The base of a large doline (a type of sinkhole) opens up to a naturally framed vista of the towering forest trees above and commences the start of the Marri Walk Trail.

Stay in our air conditioned 2 storey spa villas, chalets, beach cottages & cabins or enjoy the comfort of caravan, camping & motorhome sites with private ensuites. Pet friendly caravan & camping sites.

Giant waterslide · Heated indoor pool Games room · 4 playgrounds Jumping pillow · Glamping tents FREECALL · 1800 248 231 65 mandalayresort.com.au

DID YOU KNOW? The Marri Walk Trail is a reminder of how resilient this landscape is and how quickly nature can respond and rejuvenate. Flourishing new growth lines the paths edges and climbs the trunks of the towering trees. This walk is worthy of your full attention and as you slow down and take a closer look, you will

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be able discover incredible species. There’s no better place to appreciate life that has started to spring anew and fire’s longstanding transformative role in this landscape. Mammoth Cave is open 7 days a week from 9am-5pm, and offers self-guided tours with a suggested duration of 1-2 hours.

Some native Australian plants do not release seeds until there is a fire. Heat from fires trigger seed pods to slowly open and once the fire has passed, the seeds will be released into the freshly cleared soil, making it the perfect place for new plants to germinate and grow.

Cellar Door & Vineyard Kitchen wine tasting - lunch - wine blending experience - vineyard picnic

3277 Caves Road, Wilyabrup 08 9755 6225 | bookings@clairaultstreicker.com.au www.clairaultstreicker.com.au

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BUSSELTON

HIGHLIGHTS BUSSELTON JETTY

Busselton’s city precinct and foreshore offers the perfect fusion of coastal and city life. Spend the morning perusing quality shops, cafes and pubs along Queen Street, then, find perfect views of the famous jetty and of breaching whales along the foreshore where playgrounds, skateparks, and eateries abound.

Jetty Train Tours Dive Busselton Jetty

BU S The Gosling Food Trailer

Playground Equinox Restaurant and Bar

Merenj Boodja (bush food garden)

MAR

ESH

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Skate Park

CE Esplanade Hotel

Weld Theatre

QUEE N ST

20 min 1.4 km

Bistro Breton

Hillzeez Down South Surf Shop Cookdigs Takeaway

Fat Duck Cycles & Espresso

Phil Hollett Gallery Fusion Jewellers

Busselton Central Shopping Centre

Free Events: The event capital of Western Australia, Busselton has a calendar packed full of arts, cultural and sporting events. Be sure to catch CinefestOZ Film Festival this August.

Orana Cinema

Busselton Books Busselton Museum

BU S

SELL

H WY

To Dunsborough Origins Market

Geographe Bay: The seclusion and safety of Geographe Bay defines holidays in Busselton free enjoyment of life’s simple pleasures. From exploring rock pools and sand-castlemaking, to long walks with the dog and fishing escapades. Fish or Eat Fish: Holidays in Busselton impart new skills, hobbies and memories, generation on generation. Fishing, crabbing and boating are just some of the unique experiences that holidays are made of here; and if you don’t catch anything, there’s always the quintessential fish and chips on the foreshore!

IN E T

Artgeo Gallery

Artgeo Complex

Crafty Pints: Busselton is the unoffcial home of craft beer in the south west, with urban, seaside and bush-block breweries - all of which welcome the whole family - offering up a taste of the region’s best.

ArtGeo Cultural Complex: This is where Busselton’s art and heritage meet; experience historical tours, witness working artists’ studios and wander galleries and exhibitions.

FOR

Shelter Brewing Co

SIGNAL PARK

Busselton Jetty: Built in 1865, the Busselton Jetty has always been the centre of activity in this vibrant beach town. Along its 1.8 kilometre timber piling and in the waters beneath, locals and holiday-makers alike walk, fish, swim and snorkel.

TO N SEL

To Perth

TOWN MAP Visitors Centre

Gallery

Restaurant

Supermarket

Café

Pedestrian/cycle path

Bar

Dining/shopping precinct

Gift Shop

Green Space

IMAGINE A TIME without haulage trucks on the highways, when we relied on horses for all the heavy lifting. 170 years ago, Australia had one horse to every two people, such was their importance in human transport and haulage. When steam engines were built for commercial use, they created an industrial revolution. When further adapted for ships and trains, the transport industry changed forever. It’s hard to imagine how significant it would

have been for the tiny settlement of Vasse to have the honour of being home to the first steam engine in Western Australia, and the third in Australia. It was a gamechanger, akin to the first automobiles, the first aeroplanes and maybe even the first trip to the moon! The steam locomotive was named Ballaarat by the Mayor of Melbourne, after the original spelling of the town where it was built. Ballaarat is made from two Aboriginal words ‘balla arat,’ which means ‘resting place’. The

spelling of the town’s name was eventually changed to Ballarat, but the engine retained its original spelling. The Western Australian Timber Company purchased the Ballaarat engine, and were awarded one of only three WA milling concessions granted by the Colony’s governor. Timber milling was the south west’s biggest industry and timber was the biggest export industry in Western Australia until World War I. The company built WA’s first railway line, a 300-

A TALE OF WA’S FIRST

Steam

Locomotive WORDS: Janine Pittaway

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AT PULLMAN BUNKER BAY RESORT AT PULLMAN BUNKER BAY RESORT

foot (91.4 metre) landing jetty, bridge and seaport at Lockeville north of Busselton (near Wonnerup) for transporting their timber offshore. Back then there were landing jetties dotted all over the Geographe Bay for shipping purposes. Ballaarat earnt its keep hauling logs on a 18km tramline from Lockeville to Yoganup, and eventually 30km inland to Maryvale until the mill closed in 1887 after the company met financial difficulty. The steam engine fell into decline after the mill’s closure in 1887. There was a chance it might be purchased for use on railway lines at Karridale and Boranup but was found unsuitable for those purposes. It was damaged by fire and remained exposed to the elements in a paddock for a number of years. Eventually things started looking up for the engine, and in 1925 it was donated by landowner Percy Reynolds to the Municipality of Busselton in the hope of giving the engine a better future. The Shire then offered it to the WA Museum followed by the Western Australian Government Railways (WAGR), who eventually accepted and moved it to Midland. However it was considered too expensive to do any restoration, so it remained in the WAGR yards. It wasn’t until 1929, 42 years after being decommissioned, that Ballaarat finally received partial repair work thanks to it featuring in a State Centenary parade through Perth. Ballaarat sat in the rail yards until the Busselton community intervened in 1934, requesting the engine’s return. After three years of lobbying,

The Ballaarat engine has had a long journey. You can see her today at a special display room at Railway House in Busselton.

SOAK UP THE UP THE MARGARET RIVER SOAK REGION'S MARGARET BEST OCEAN VIEW RIVER REGION'S BEST OCEAN VIEW

In the restaurant or bar, dining at Pullman the Moon Restaurant is an experienceOther full ofSide localofflavour. & Bar, dining at Pullman is an experience full of local flavour. Breakfast, lunch & dinner Ballaarat returned home and was installed on The Social Hour, daily from 3-5pm public display in Victoria Square in 1937. Spring whale watching Breakfast, lunch & dinner It had pride of place in Busselton town centre Weddings & private The Socialevents Hour, daily from 3-5pm and was visited by thousands of locals and tourists over the years, but being exposed to Weddings & private events

the elements for 75 years left the engine a bit rusty and weather beaten. A Lotterywest grant in 2012 made preservation work possible, and the Shire coordinated a local machining business, a team of volunteers and a Rail Heritage Consultant to undertake the restoration. The locomotive moved to Railway House in 2015 while a new building was constructed around it. It was to be in its own special space with displays on the region’s early timber industry. WA Brick Society secretary Ryan Masters has built four Lego models of the engine, starting with when it was operating in Wonnerup in 1871 through to the current version in Railway House. Each replica has about 500 pieces, and are on display until August 2022. With thanks to research by Philippa Rogers for her detailed history of The Ballaarat in Light Railways Magazine, April 2012.

42 Bunker Bay Road (off Cape Naturaliste Road) NATURALISTE 6281Bay Road (off Cape Naturaliste Road) 42WA Bunker

NATURALISTE WA 6281

OUR WORLD IS OUR WORLD IS YOUR PLAYGROUND YOUR PLAYGROUND

Available on the app Accor Live71Limitless

EXPLORE

Bustling Busselton Think you know Busso? Busselton’s ditched its quiet seaside image and welcomed some brilliant new breweries, burger bars and bistros. Rediscover this bustling city and the epic eateries in its CBD. WORDS: Lizzy Pepper

BUSSELTON’S BEST BREAKFASTS Hailing from Brittany, France, Bistro Breton serves up seriously scrumptious sweet and savoury crepes. Caramelised apples and Chantilly cream with ‘une noisette’ – there’s no better way to start the day. Open Monday - Friday. The Good Egg is a favourite amongst locals, and it’s a café with a big heart. Great Micrology coffee, freshly squeezed juice, perfect Eggs Benedict and kids are very welcome too, with a cool play area. Their upstairs office hub is perfect if you need a quiet place to catch up on some work. Open for lunch, bookings recommended. ALSO TRY: The Equinox for bay views.

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Busselton Jetty Chalets are a small complex of unique self contained holiday homes opposite the Busselton Foreshore and a short walk to the famous Busselton Jetty.

CAFÉ CRUISING Get your treadly serviced while you sip a long mac at Fat Duck Cycles and Thirteen Espresso. Athletes will be tempted by the bike and triathlon gear; the rest of us will fall for the fresh cinnamon buns. Busselton Bean & Gone has grown from a hole in the wall serving good coffee, mini donuts and bagels to a hidden treasure where the walls are plastered with vinyl records. Set within the limestone walls of the old courthouse, The Lock-up Coffee House is renowned for scones with jam and cream. If you can’t nab one of their retro seats, take your coffee for a stroll along Queen Street to the foreshore 150 metres away.

Baked is a groovy family-owned and operated bakery, with superb wraps, quiches and sweet treats. Don’t miss the vanilla slice. ALSO TRY: Hummingbird Café, Alans Café for gluten free, and new Mano Wraps on Queen Street for delicious Itialian buckwheat wraps.

MARKET VIBES Origins Market is fairly new to the scene in Busselton and offers fresh produce, hand-made goodies and gourmet food all under one roof. Pick up your grocery supplies including locally caught seafood, fresh vegies and sustainably farmed meats, while having a wine, beer or gin tasting. The market is home to more than 60 makers from around the region. Open from 7am, it’s also a great place to start the day with a freshly brewed coffee.

94 Marine Terrace, Busselton busseltonjettychalets.com.au 73 (08) 9752 3893

LUNCH IN BUSSELTON It’s a good idea to book ahead when visiting new kid on the block, Shelter Brewing Co. The vast barn-style structure houses a full brewery setup and seating for 300 guests, all happily feasting on ribs, brisket, vegan burgers and much more, washed down with craft beer and cider. Burger Bones comes from Coops Deville’s obsession with making the absolute best burgers he can, and constant off-menu specials as he experiments with sauces, cheeses and fried chicken. Fans have been known to make day trips from Perth especially for these burgers. Lunch at The Equinox equals seafood with a sea view; think salt n pepper squid, garlic prawn pizza or a seafood board, or casual classics like a chicken schnitzel sandwich (yum!) Grab a burger at The Gosling Food Trailer, next to the skate park on the foreshore, while they rebuild the iconic ocean-view restaurant. There’s hot chips, ice-cream, coffee, and a patch of lawn perfect for an impromptu picnic. ALSO TRY: Pho Sai Gon, The Urban Coffee House.

BAR HOPPING Firestation has an impressive array of natural and organic wines plus a craft beer list to win the heart of any beer lover. Grab a bevvy or

two and a pizza in the courtyard. Hally’s Bar qualifies a mention for their amazing rooftop location. The vibe is Melbourne meets Busselton with excellent service and quality food. Open Tuesday – Saturday, Bodega is new to town offering tapas, cocktails and boasting an impressive selection of wines and craft beer. The Esplanade Hotel is a reliable staple with quality pub food, great outside courtyard or warm indoor seating.

SHOPPING IN BUSSELTON Indulging in some weekend shopping in Busselton? Shop for shoes, clothing, art supplies, jewellery – all the lovely things you

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need, with a relaxed small town vibe and free parking. Check the opening hours, as some places wind down early on Sundays. Busselton is home to four awesome bookshops; Busselton Books, Viva Books, Barefoot Books and Dymocks, all locally owned and operated. Busselton Books is a secondhand bookshop and paperback exchange. The team are eager to help find your next read, or the perfect present, and will happily gift wrap. Fat Duck Cycles has everything an avid athlete could ask for, from the latest cycling gear to performance swimwear, as well as being a great place for coffee and a snack. Fusion Jewellers is family-owned and operated and not only do they have a superb selection on display, they custom design and handmake pieces too. It’s especially lovely to shop at Fusion knowing how generously they support so many local causes.

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TU NA

DUNSBOROUGH

To Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse

BEACH

LIS TE

10 min 0.6 km

TC E

Bike Shed Dunsborough

Yahoo Surfboards

Nina’s Jewellery

LIONS PARK

SquidLips Fish & Chips

Bay Village Resort & Spa

Y BA

Dunsborough Bakery

Yar ri

CENTENNIAL PARK

LIS

Peko Peko

RA Blue Manna Bistro

SEYMOUR PARK

TU NA

Naturaliste Charters

Bungalow Social

Hillzeez Occy’s

Y RD DU N N BA

To Quindalup Boat Ramp

ShoeBeDoo Dunsborough Cellars

CAVES RD

To Margaret River

DUNSBOROUGH

HIGHLIGHTS

TOW N MA P

Dunsborough town centre is a coastal community located within walking distance from Geographe Bay but with a distinctly different vibe offered at the shopping district than at the casual beachfront. The town is bursting with bakeries, bars and fashion boutiques while the beach is perfect for a bike ride and a splash in the turquoise waters. Yallingup: Yallingup is surrounded by the ruggedly beautiful Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park. Here the calm waters of Geographe Bay give way to a dramatic coastline, famous for its surf breaks. So good are the waves here, pro surfer Taj Burrow calls it home. Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse: A casual 59 steps to the top of this working lighthouse rewards visitors with panoramic views of the Indian Ocean and Meelup Regional Park.

Visitors Centre Restaurant Café Bar

Intimate Moments: Intimacy takes on new meaning here – whether you’re travelling solo or as a couple, family or friends, there’s a sense of seclusion and natural indulgence in Dunsborough that draws you closer to what’s important.

Gift Shop

Boutique Shopping: From handmade wares and art to clothing and jewellery, shopping here isn’t an exercise in excess but a way of getting into the rhythm of Dunsborough’s alluring lifestyle.

Pedestrian/cycle path

Gallery Accommodation Supermarket

Dining/shopping precinct Green Space

Ngilgi Cave: An ancient and sacred place, Ngilgi Cave is the site of an Aboriginal creation story that’s shared with visitors by Traditional Owner Josh Whiteland (Koomal Dreaming). The resonating silence and intricacy inside the cave leaves its mark on all who bear witness. Picturesque Drinking & Dining: Elevated casual is Dunsborough’s definition of meal time – restaurants, wineries and breweries offer a taste of the region’s best, with nature’s beauty the backdrop. 77

ECO EXPLORATIONS ACROSS

Dunsborough & Yallingup Leaping off rocks into surging surf, learning about Meelup’s flora and fauna, long lunching at an off-grid winery then star gazing at an eco-cabin; here’s how to explore Yallingup and Dunsborough the eco-sensitive way. WORDS: Lizzy Pepper

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PLAY South West Eco Discoveries are nature and wildlife specialists, with a range of ecoaccredited family friendly tours. I joined them for a half-day coastal and wildlife tour around Cape Naturaliste, the northern tip of the Margaret River Region, where we watched Mick dive via a fish-cam, walked a stretch of the Cape to Cape Track and grazed on cheese and wine overlooking Sugarloaf Rock. “We make the wonder of the natural environment the number one focus on all of our tours.” This could involve sighting whales from Cape Naturaliste, discovering stunning wildflowers or sitting under a starry sky while quendas and woylies hop about your feet. ‘Meet the Woylies’ nocturnal tour is excellent too; a rare chance to meet critically endangered animals in a fox-proof sanctuary. Coasteering with Margaret River Adventure Co is a thrilling must-do for adventure lovers and coastal dwellers and will leave you on an adrenalin high. You’ll feel 110% safe with owneroperator Cam O’Beirne, as you climb ancient granite boulders and leap into swimming holes near Yallingup, exploring and learning about the landscape along the way. We did it on a lowswell day when the water was clear and would absolutely do it again. Venture into Ngilgi Cave to explore a

million-year-old limestone cave decorated with calcite crystal stalactites, stalagmites and shawls. Great for adventurous kids thanks to an optional crawl tunnel, you can sing a tune in the near-perfect acoustics of the amphitheatre and give your legs a walkout on the stairs. Join Koomal Dreaming for a private twilight tour of Ngilgi Cave with Wadandi cultural custodian Josh Whiteland. You’ll be mesmerised by his didgeridoo performance and stories. Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse is a glorious spot to explore walk trails, look out for whales and hear fascinating maritime history. You can climb the lighthouse on a guided tour, taking in 270-degree ocean views and learning about the clockwork mechanism, mercury bath and Fresnal lens that work to beam a light 47km out to sea. Bookings are recommended.

EAT Arimia operates entirely off grid, reliant on rainwater, solar power and battery storage to run their Yallingup restaurant, cellar door and guest house. Chef Evan Hayter is also a keen farmer, growing trout, pigs and sheep alongside the vines and kitchen garden, and a zero-waste approach allows him to be more creative. Produce used in the restaurant is organically or biodynamically grown on the property or

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sourced from similar local operators. Lunch is enjoyed with a charming view of the Leeuwin Naturaliste Ridge in the background, and Evan’s thriving garden in the fore. Pair it with wine for the perfect sustainable long lunch. Aravina has so much to offer; glorious hydrangea gardens, a surf museum, vintage car gallery, sumptuous dining – all underpinned by sustainable practices in the vineyard and winery. A 99KW solar farm generates 40% of their requirements, organic herbs and vegetables from the kitchen garden, apple and pear orchard go into the chef’s seasonal cuisine, and they minimise the use of chemicals, pesticides, plastics, and single use packaging. Further afield Wine and dine at Cullen Wines’ Biodynamic Wine Room, the first winery in the region to sequester more carbon than they emit. 90% of produce is grown on site, and a set course lunch menu means minimal waste. In recent news, Cullen is the first winery to be approved for funding as part of the Western Australian State Government’s Carbon Farming and Land Restoration Program.

STAY Petit Eco Cabin is an architecturally designed sustainable cabin tucked amongst trees and organic vines at Windows Estate. The cabin

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Coasteering with Margaret River Adventure Co is a thrilling must-do for adventure lovers and coastal dwellers

collects its own rainwater, grey water is used on nearby fruit trees, and solar panels provide energy for heating. Beautifully designed with a waterfall window for tree and star gazing, there’s day beds inside and out for lazing. Best of all is the proximity to Windows Estate cellar door, plus Chow’s Table, Gabriel’s Chocolate, House of Cards and Arimia Estate all a stone’s throw.

Further afield Powered by sunshine and rainfall, Tree Chalets is an off grid private getaway set in a rose gum plantation near Busselton. Cuddle by the fireplace or soak away your stresses in the outdoor bathtub, enjoying the birdsong while your EV recharges on the Tesla car charger.

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To Cowaramup

CA RT S RD

HIGHLIGHTS

Margaret River Brewhouse

ROTARY PARK

It comes as a surprise to some visitors that Margaret River’s bustling town centre sits roughly 8km from the coast. But the main street never disappoints. There is an indelible buzz to the town centre with a mix of artisan stores and galleries, public street art, diverse drinking options and a good selection of retail shops.

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RGA MA

Swings and Roundabouts Margaret River The Local & Cafe Mosaic

Cowaramup’s Arts Scene: Inspired by the landscape, local artists have put their stamp on Cowaramup. Explore artisan stores, galleries and studios in this unexpectedly creative little town.

Margaret River Artisan Store Margaret River Liquor Merchants

45 min 2.4 km

Burger Baby

Sidekick Café Settlers Tavern Hillzeez Subculture Squidlips Fish’n’Chips Riversmith

Hillzeez Down South Surf Shop

River Walk

Drift Café The Village at Margs

Artful Ink Tattoo Studio Margs

Miki’s Open Kitchen Retyre Shoes Margaret River Fudge Factory

Morries Arc of Iris

WALCLIFFE RD Margaret River Heart

To Prevelly & Gnarabup Beaches

FORREST RD

Skate Park

Life Cycle Bikes

Blue Ginger Fine Foods

Surfers Point: Generations of professional and amateur surfers alike have flocked here to surf the region’s famous point break - and it’s a good spot to eat fish and chips at sunset, too.

Jah Roc Galleries

ELL H

Margaret River: The lifeblood of the town’s fertile environment, the Margaret River flows through here and culminates at Rivermouth.

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La Scarpetta Trattoria

BU S S

Mammoth Cave: The ancient cave system that exists within Margaret River’s costal limestone ridge gives insight to Wadandi and natural history, and the true fertility and wonder of this land.

Margaret River Historical Society

Hairy Marron Cafe

Wineries & Gourmet Dining: Margaret River’s fertile environment gives way to some of the world’s finest wines and produce that good chefs dream of. Mountain Biking Trails: Margaret River, with it’s rich biodiversity and abundance of space, has garnered attention worldwide as an outdoor recreation mecca particularly for MTB enthusiasts. Autumn and winter are perfect for taking on the trails.

Margaret River Distilling Company

MARGARET RIVER

The Garden Basket Farmer’s Market

To Augusta

TOW N M AP Visitors Centre

Gallery

Restaurant

Supermarket

Café

Pedestrian/cycle path

Bar

Dining/shopping precinct

Gift Shop

Green Space

MARGARET RIVER’S

Surf & Source Trail WORDS: Emily Kurys-Romer

Like the beginning and end of something much greater, the fresh waters of the Margaret River flow through land, forest and out to sea, sharing life and vitality to all who encounter it. Visitors come to grasp a slice of this life, but many stay to add their own thread to the intricate tapestry.

Highlights Swings and Roundabouts Margaret River ‘Swings’ in Margaret River is the Swings and Roundabouts winery home base in town. It captures all the laid back, jovial spirit of the Yallingup headquarters, right down to its wine barrel-inspired interior and warm, friendly service. Expect casual but comforting woodfired pizzas and Mediterranean share plates and Swings and Roundabouts wines on tap. Swings is the local’s local, where everyone is welcome.

Ellensbrook at Mokidup Ellensbrook Homestead at Mokidup is a beautiful and peaceful place of historical and cultural significance, set into the coastal landscape and surrounded by lush forest. This is a place where nature and cultures merge, run by the National Trust of Western Australia. The house was built in 1857 and is a testament to traditional Wadandi knowledge and settler ingenuity. The grounds have a large lawn area and shady trees by a waterway, with bush walk trails leaving from the site. Margaret River Fudge Factory The Margaret River Fudge Factory was founded in 1999, and is now an oasis of sweet treats on the main street of town. See premium homemade fudge and chocolate being made by hand in the showroom. The factory is family-friendly and free to visit, with tasty samples on offer. Yahava Koffeeworks Margaret River Yahava is a wonderland of coffee just outside Margaret River. The experiences are varied, from stopping by the café for your favourite brew to settling into a Koffee Academy course on brewing and making coffees.

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WINE & CHEESE Margaret River Farmers Market The award-winning Margaret River Farmers Market is a firm weekly fixture and a must-do, to be immersed in one of the most authentic local experiences. Established in 2002, the market connects hard-working farmers within Margaret River (or just beyond; specifically within the southwest appellation) with consumers. Shop according to the seasons, supporting local, connecting to the community, lowering food miles and cutting out the middle-man. Jesters Flat Jesters Flat is a rural equestrian farm specialising in horse riding experiences on and off the property. The rustic country clubhouse and play area was designed for non-riding guests to enjoy themselves; the campfire in winter or the shady gardens on warmer days. For everyone else, this is the premium horseriding adventure destination in the south west. Treks visit beaches, breweries, wineries and secluded waterholes. Stand Up Surfing Join Stand Up Surfing for a morning paddle at one of Margaret River’s best-loved beaches; learn how to paddle with expert guides or join a tour with breakfast included. There are 60-to90-minute sessions available to everyone from eight years of age, with instructors there to help you every step of the way (each with a world standard qualification and being trained lifeguards). Plan this experience for your stay in the summer months. Brown Hill Estate Brown Hill is a proudly small, family-owned and run winery that lies 12 minutes from Margaret River near the rustic village of Rosa Brook. The cellar door is set up right in the winery itself and

operated by members of the family. Try one of the three ranges in a wine tasting, book a winery tour or barrel hall tasting. Jarvis Estate Jarvis Estate likes to offer something a bit different on top of the usual cellar door visit: free vineyard tours. This is a small, familyowned boutique winery off the beaten track (but still just 10 minutes from Margaret River). Guests are greeted by the winemaker and owner for a personalised tour of the awardwinning winery. Check out local artwork at the cellar door, or bring your own picnic to enjoy with a bottle of wine in the gardens. Voyager Estate Voyager Estate is one of the more renowned opulent wineries in Margaret River. The Cape Dutch-style cellar door is surrounded by famously well-kept grounds and a romantic rose garden, setting the tone for the visit. Inside is the base for Voyager’s extensive wine tasting options, behind-thescenes tours and gastronomic degustation experiences. The vineyard has recently transitioned to certified organic, cementing the reputation of its Cabernet and Chardonnay varieties. Xanadu Wines Xanadu Wines is one of the larger, luxurious wineries catering to a relaxed and familyfriendly crowd - the grounds are even poochwelcoming! Xanadu was one of the early wineries of the region (founded in 1977) and its wines are seriously well awarded. The cellar door sits next to a large grassed courtyard (with nearby playground) providing multiple tasting settings.

ENJOY A TASTE OF MARGARET RIVER’S FINEST We invite you to join us for a tasting, among some of the oldest vines in Margaret River, at our famous Redbrook vineyard. OPEN EVERY DAY 10:30 — 5 CORNER CAVES & METRICUP ROADS WILYABRUP, MARGARET RIVER, WA

We have collaborated with Dellendale Creamery and Maison Lassiaille to present a delicious Margaret River wine, cheese and chocolate pairing. $25 PER PERSON

Enjoy a seasonal guided tasting of four premium wines matched with artisan cheese and a chocolate bonbon. SCAN TO BOOK

EVANSANDTATE.WINE PHONE 08 9755 6244

Far right: Jesters Flat equestrian. Right: Margaret River Farmers’ Market. Below: Eagles Heritage

Cape Mentelle Vineyards Cape Mentelle is one of the founding wineries of Margaret River (and the closest to the township itself). It began in the 1970s with winemaking legend David Hohnen, who wanted to make Australian wines known to the world. Today, the winemaking team is made up of multicultural specialists of their field. Cape Mentelle was a first in the region to offer Behind the Scenes visits to guests, and now has a range of tour and tasting options. McHenry Hohnen McHenry Hohnen runs its unique pop-up cellar door in the charming and characterful town of Witchcliffe, a few minutes south of Margaret River. The winery is focused on biodynamic farming, limited intervention winemaking and

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single vineyard wines. The cellar door is casual and intimate, inviting you right in off the main street of Bussell Highway. Inside, taste and learn about the winery’s ecological, practical and socially-responsible practices. Eagles Heritage Wildlife Centre Eagles Heritage is a classic, (almost) allnatural attraction – a bushland sanctuary for Australia’s birds of prey. It boasts the country’s largest collection of birds of prey and cares for those injured, orphaned and displaced including eagles, hawks, falcons and owls. Stop by for one of the twice-daily flight displays where the birds interact with their handlers. The admission price supports the centre’s education, rehab and engangered species breeding.

JahRoc Galleries JahRoc Galleries is one of the most prominent art galleries in Margaret River (not just because it sits at town’s entrance), with an array of exhibiting artists, an impressive in-house collection and exclusive wooden furniture range. The gallery is known for its diverse art, jewellery and cuttingedge furniture designs. The mediums include fine art, paintings, glass, sculpture, ceramic and more. See the extremely rare range of Argyle mine pink diamonds on showcase. The gallery was founded in 1987 by master furniture designers and makers Gary Bennett and David Paris, whose awardwinning works use ethically sourced local hardwoods.

Margaret River and Districts Historical Society Old Settlement Museum The Margaret River and Districts Historical Society Old Settlement Museum immerses visitors in the life of the region’s early working families through history, artefacts and photography. Find the Museum on the forested banks of Margaret River right in town, in the original 1925 Bramley School and Group Settlement buildings.

LOCAL GUIDES Walk Talk Taste Margaret River Uncover the secrets of Margaret River’s gourmet food scene alongside your guide, an experienced journalist, traveller and foodie. Walk Talk Taste is unique because it’s run right out of Margaret River town itself: on foot in the fresh air. Margaret River Discovery Co Margaret River Discovery Co specialises in personalised touring for people who “don’t do tours”, chaperoned by award-winning guide Sean Blocksidge. It’s luxury touring for nature and wine lovers aboard Sean’s Landrover Discovery 4WD. Visit the actual Margaret River and Cape to Cape Track, with a side of cliffs, canoeing (without getting dirty or wet), wildlife-spotting and lunch at Fraser Gallop Estate, with VIP access into the winery and vineyard. This has been rated as the number one Margaret River tour experience on Tripadvisor for 13 consecutive years.

STAY Margaret River Bed and Breakfast Margaret River B&B is the ideal springboard for exploring the region, just off Caves Road with a quick route to town on one side and the area’s most famous surf beaches on the other. The B&B has four resort-style rooms among nine acres of native forest. Each has its own veranda and double jacuzzi fronting onto lawn and bushland. The bright common room has floor-to-ceiling windows, multiple cosy seating options and gallery walls with works available to purchase from West Australian artists. Margaret River Holiday Cottages Margaret River Holiday Cottages is the perfect destination to switch off, slow down and have an authentic country experience. There are three options of accommodation for everyone from travelling couples to work groups and families, with a great range of facilities (the communal firepit, indoor heated swimming pool, playground, nature and cycle trails are highlights). Here you have 12 acres of bush gardens neighbouring state forest to explore. The Cottages house a menagerie of transient and orphaned animals (whom you can feed!) – miniature Irish donkeys, sheep, alpacas, a calf, chickens and ducks. This article was originally published on margaretriver.com and adapted for print.

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AUGUSTA

HIGHLIGHTS

Blackwood River Houseboats

ALL NU TT CE Augusta Historical Museum

Skate Park

Augusta Newspower

AUGUSTA CIVIC PARK

BP Augusta

Augusta River Tours

Boat Ramp

Augusta CRC Centennial Hall

HIL

E LV I

Deckchair Café

HARDY INLE T

Augusta Fish & Chips Augusta Hotel Motel

10 min 1.1 km CK BL A O WO

Augusta town centre often flies under the radar but those in the know love its quirk and charm. Take a stroll down the street and you’ll find eclectic vintage shops and cafes, an old school bus turned pizza bar, and a pub with arguably the best view in WA. The Augusta folk are a chatty bunch too and it’s the local pearls of wisdom offered along the way that can make a visitor instantly smitten with the place.

To Margaret River

VE DA

Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse: Maritime legend abounds at the tallest lighthouse on mainland Australia, situated at the most south-westerly point of Australia where the Southern and Indian Oceans meet.

Turner Caravan Park

Hamelin Bay: Share an intimate moment with a stingray in pristine Hamelin Bay. Blackwood River: Fish, swim or soak in the serenity to your heart’s content along the Blackwood River, the region’s most significant water source and the longest river in the south west. Walking Trails: A network of walking trails connects river, bush and sea in and around Augusta, forming pathways into the town’s unique history, flora and fauna. Eat Abalone: Forget the trims of fine dining; sink your teeth into a piece of locally farmed abalone at The Colourpatch seafood restaurant or at Glenarty Road winery. Whale Watching: Flinders Bay becomes a nursery for the next generation of Southern Right Whales and Humpbacks from May August, and whales can be seen in all their glory from boat, beach and lookout.

To Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse

Pioneer Memorial War Memorial

The Colourpatch Cafe & Bar

LIONS PARK

TOW N M AP Visitors Centre

Accommodation

Restaurant

Supermarket

Café

Pedestrian/cycle path

Bar

Dining/shopping precinct

Gift Shop

Green Space

Gallery

Boranup Forest: Witness the sheer beauty of the karri trees as winter rain brings fertility to the forest.

NAUTICAL CURIOSITIES FROM THE TIP OF THE CAPE

Shipwrecks, early explorers and beached whales WORDS: Sarah Robinson

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TAKE EVEN THE smallest step back into Augusta’s history, and you’ll discover the little cape town isn’t quite what it seems. Kathy Tritton, the President of the Augusta Historical Society, is someone who knows this firsthand. “I came down to the Augusta area with one of my foster families to visit the cave and the lighthouse,” she says. “My husband and I later moved down here, and over time you pick up bits and pieces; something intrigues you and you go looking for a bit more.” Kathy lives on Molloy Island; a 15 minute car ride, plus a barge crossing, from Augusta’s main strip. In the old days Kathy ran a souvenir store in town. Now, she volunteers at the Augusta Historical Museum, where she shares the stories she collects. “Augusta has been a tourist place for so long, we’re talking generational holidaymakers, people who came down with their grandparents, who came down here honeymooning,” she says. “There is a special feel, you really can’t put your finger on it.” The first settlers didn’t feel quite the same way though. “Everything looked green, so from their perspective, if it was green, it was fertile,” Kathy says. “They really didn’t understand the landscape

back then, and were basing what they were seeing on their knowledge from home.” They also didn’t understand the culture of the Wadandi Pibulmun people, who had been living on the land for at least 45,000 years. “The settlers landed with crop material and animals, and the Aboriginal culture was that everyone shared everything; a fence was something to climb over, it was like a fallen log,” Kathy says. “If there were animals that was for

Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse still has the original cottages, one housing an exceptional interpretive centre with artefacts, interactive technology and a large scale animation.

everyone to share, but that wasn’t the white man’s view.” The treacherous coastline also proved problematic for early settlers. “In Hamelin Bay alone, there are almost 13 wrecks,” Kathy says. “Probably the most famous would be the Pericles, which was on its way to Fremantle and then London for the coronation of King George V around 1910.” The Pericles was built in the same Belfast shipping yard as the Titanic, and was owned by the ill-fated White Star Line. When the ship hit an uncharted rock, it started sinking. Luckily, no one died. Well. Almost. “They were all rescued, except the captain’s cat, who was apparently in the last lifeboat and decided to jump out,” Kathy says. “Cats don’t like changing homes.” For weeks after, Augusta locals collected boxes of butter and other salvage, which washed to shore from the wreck. A few men from the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse were given bravery

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awards, and the town was congratulated for taking care of the rescued crew. To this day Augustans are legendary at levelling up in times of emergency. Like in 1986, when 114 false killer whales beached themselves on Flinders Bay. 96 were rescued, making it one of the most successful whale rescues of its time. “It starts with locals, and it all comes down to what they do and how they react initially before anyone else can even get there,” Kathy says. Another local rescue happened back in 1876, when just after midnight, the Georgette started to take on water between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Hamelin. Sam Isaacs, an Aboriginal stockman who worked for the Bussell homestead, raised the alarm and returned with ropes and gear to rescue the crew. Grace Bussell, a 16 year old girl from the homestead, went back to the wreck with Sam. The pair rode into the surf to rescue the drowning sailors. At the time, Grace was given

most of the accolades and attention, however Sam’s bravery should not be lost in history. Twelve lives were lost in the Georgette shipwreck, which now lies around 90 metres off Redgate Beach. Sam’s medal can be found in the Augusta Historical Museum. “Sam Isaacs was given a medal and a piece of land, and we have his medal and some photos of him in the museum,” says Kathy. Anyone can visit the Augusta Historical Museum to learn more about the Georgette, and other incredible stories from the town. “At one stage there was so few people in Augusta they were talking about deregistering the name as a town – but we hung on and we’re still here,” she says. “I think the people in the area are very proud of their town.” The Augusta Historical Society meets on the third Thursday of every month. Members of the public are welcome to come along and listen to stories, or visit the museum in town to discover more about Augusta’s history.

Gale Street Motel & Villas, Busselton offers affordable, comfortable and clean accommodation in a quiet street off the highway - with the glorious waters of Geographe Bay at the end of our street (3 minute walk). It is only a 5-10 minute walk to all cafes and restaurants in the town centre and approximate 10-12 minute walk to the famous Busselton Jetty.

Want to learn more about Augusta’s history? • Visit the Augusta Historical Museum. • Camp at the Alexandra Bridge Campground. • Tour the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse • Discover Humpback Whales with Whale Watch WA.

40 Gale Street, Busselton galestvillas.com.au 93 (08) 9754 1200

GETTING

AROUND

BY CAR Margaret River Rent a Car To see the best of the region, hire a car or people mover from Margaret River – all you need is a driver’s licence, even if it’s an interstate or international one. margaretriverrentacar.com.au

Hertz Busselton Hertz supplies an extensive range of cars, people movers, and 4WD vehicles for short and long-term rentals. margaretriver.com (search Hertz)

Avis Southwest Car Hire Explore the beautiful Margaret River region at your own pace with a rental from Avis Southwest Car Hire in Busselton. One-way rentals are available back to Perth. avis.com.au

BY COACH TransWA TransWA travels from Perth to Margaret River every Monday, Wednesday and Friday, with optional drop-offs along the way and returns to Perth the same day. Or keep hold of your ticket and return to Perth at a later date. transwa.wa.gov.au

South West Coach Lines Catch the express coach service connecting Perth, Perth Domestic and Perth International Airport terminals with Busselton, Dunsborough, Margaret River. southwestcoachlines.com.au

Discover the southwest with Avis. With our locations at Bunbury, Busselton and Busselton-Margaret River Airport.

1 8 0 0 67 9 8 8 0 | av i s . c o m . au

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IN STYLE McLeod Tours Take in Margaret River’s scenery and attractions with local expert and award-winning guide Neil McLeod. The three-day Escape tour provides pick-up from your Perth hotel or Perth train station, comfortable bus transport, three days touring with a dedicated tour guide, delicious food and wine, and an exciting itinerary. mcleodtours.com.au

Westward Aviation Charter Services Depart from Jandakot Airport as the sun rises and enjoy stunning views of the Swan River, Fremantle Harbour, Rockingham, Mandurah, the Peel Inlet and Bunbury then on to either Busselton or Margaret River. Westward Aviation will transfer you from the airport to the city and take you back at no extra cost. Your return journey will be just as spectacular with the sun setting over the Indian Ocean and the night lights of the City of Perth. westwardaviation.com.au

South West Luxury Transport Locally owned and operated by ex-Qantas pilot, Andrew and local artist Rebekah, the team at South West Luxury Transport bring a culmination of skills to ensure the most premium of experiences. southwestluxurytransport.com.au

Margaret River Tours

Tours have pre-planned itineraries for you to get around and taste local produce, wine and craft beer. margaretrivertours.com

Celebrating its 40th Anniversary in 2022

Esquire Classic Charters Fancy being chauffeur driven throughout the region in a classic Rolls Royce vehicle? Esquire Classic Charters have perfectly maintained classic cars and offer luxury wine tours. esquireclassiccharters.com.au

Chauff-Her If you need to get around the region for wine, beer or gin tours - or for a wedding or special event, Chauff-Her will arrange transport for up to 7 passengers. chauff-her.com.au

Wonderful Wines

South West Eco Discoveries Tours with a more adventurous bent, South West Eco Discovery Tours will have you visiting special natural landmarks, discovering wildlife and tasting local flavours. southwestecodiscoveries.com.au

VIRTUALLY Margaretriver.com The number one travel authority in the region, margaretiver.com is full of inspiration and practical information on how to navigate your way around the region. Pop up webchat and telephone enquiries will also answer any of your more curly questions.

Fabulous Food

One of the original and some say the best tour operators in the region, Margaret River

Great Gifts 506 Metricup Rd, Wilyabrup www.woodynook.com.au info@woodynook.com.au (08) 9755 7547

JOHN STREATER FINE FURNITURE AND ART GALLERY

Whalers Cove Villa a fabulous beachfront location with 16 self-catering villas, only a short stroll to Dunsborough’s stylish shops and cafes. Make this your base for exploring the Margaret River Region. whalerscove.com.au (08) 9755 3699 3 Lecaille Ct, Dunsborough

autumn & winter 2022

105 Blythe road, Yallingup Siding 6282 WA Open daily 10am to 4pm Ph 08 9755 1211 www.streaterfinefurniture.com

T&T / DIRECTORY

WHALERS COVE VILL AS

JOHN STREATER FINE FURNITURE

YO U R F RE E GU I D E TO TH E REG I O N

MARGARE T RIVER • BUSSELTON • DUNSBOROUGH • AUGUSTA

DON’T MISS OUR NEXT ISSUE Origins Market, Shop 5, 86 West Street, West Busselton www.subzerogelato.com.au Opening hours: Thursday & Sunday 10am - 6pm Friday & Saturday 10am - 9pm

JESTERS FLAT

Professionally guided HORSE RIDING TOURS, suitable for all abilities. From forest treks to beach rides, we have a horse riding adventure just for you. 1549 Rosa Brook Rd, Margaret River Ph 08 97574 562 bookings@jestersflat.com www.jestersflat.com /JestersFlat

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To advertise in

contact Natalie Du Preez MRB799 Trails & Tales Directory ad-ART-2.pdf natalie@premiumpublicationscom.au

JACARANDA GUEST HOUSE

PARK YOUR CAR AND WALK EVERYWHERE Busselton famous Jetty, beach, shops, cafe and restaurants all just a short walk away. Jacaranda Guest House is centrally located, has 7 guest rooms all with own ensuite, r/c airconditioning and free wifi. It is nestled amongst english style gardens, where You can just relax or enjoy a bbq. Continental breakfast is included in the price. 30 West Street, Busselton, WA Ph 08 9751 5973 • jacarandaguesthouse1@westnet.com.au www.jacarandaguesthouse.com

BIG VALLEY CAMPSITE

place. Your place. Our place. Stocker Preston spans across the Southwest in four beautiful locations. Combining over 100 years of Real Estate Property experience, our team of over 50, each share an undeniable passion for the region’s spectacular landscapes, environmental assets, unique creatures and soulful communities.

STOCKER

RESTON

stockerpreston.com.au

Drift Café Made here by us for you

1/72 Willmott Avenue, Margaret River Open 8am ~ 2pm weekdays | 7:30am ~ 2pm weekends www.driftcafe.com.au | Socials @driftcafe.mr

NESTLED AMONGST THE HILLS OF OUR FAMILY OWNED WORKING SHEEP FARM, JUST TEN MINUTES SOUTH EAST OF MARGARET RIVER. The farm encompasses a beautiful secret valley secluded from the outside world by natural forest. Bring your Caravan, Motorhome or Tent to relax and enjoy the open space, amazing nights skies, friendly farm animals and the family friendly atmosphere. Pet friendly. Ph 08 9757 5020 bigvalleymargaretriver.com.au

T&T / DIRECTORY

DUNSBOROUGH BEACH COTTAGES

ABSOLUTE BEACHFRONT ON THE SHORES OF GEOGRAPHE BAY Dunsborough Beach Cottages is situated on the pristine waters of Geographe Bay just 2.5 hours south of Perth. We offer beautifully appointed self-contained 2 & 3 bedroom resort style cottages, including our adults only beachfront cottages. From here you can walk to the Dunsborough town centre or within a short distance you can experience a range of award winning wineries, galleries and restaurants, making

Dunsborough Beach Cottages the ideal choice for families, couples or anyone looking to enjoy a beachfront escape in the Margaret River region. Be sure to visit our website for the latest offers and rates.

Ph 08 9756 8885 info@dunsboroughbeachcottages.com.au

WINE TOURS OF DISTINCTION

WISTERIA COTTAGE

MARGARET RIVER’S ORIGINAL AND BEST WINERY TOURS

REST, RELAX, EXPLORE.

Half Day and Full Day Gourmet Wine & Dine Tours

We visit a selection of the following wineries; Leeuwin Estate, Xanadu, Voyager Estate, McHenry Hohnen and Brown Hill. Full Day tours include lunch at Xanadu. All tours include tasting fees at cellar doors, vineyard plate, and samples of smallgoods & chocolate.

Ph: 0419 917 166 info@margaretrivertours.com www.margaretrivertours.com

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Whether you are here for rest and relaxation or to explore our amazing atttractions we hope you enjoy the peace and tranquility that is Wisteria Cottage. A one bedroom self contained cottage.

Wisteria Cottage

31 Dekkers, Rd Deepdene WA 6290 M 0407 084 086 wisteriacottageaugusta@gmail.com

Truly natural, chemical-free skincare made on-site in Dunsborough. Come visit our cute li le shop and factory. We also sell essential oil soaps, mud masks, moisturisers and interesting gi s too.

Schedule a viewing today!

1/16 Cyrillean Way Dunsborough Tel: (08) 9786 5051 WWW.BLUEMANNABISTRO.COM.AU

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Tales and Trails Margaret River Region Magazine - Autumn 2022

Articles inside

Mammoth Cave: A Story of Regeneration

Sweet Beats: Margaret River Region’s Music Scene

Beyond the Cellar Door: 5 Immersive Winery Experiences

What’s Hiding in the Region’s LIAs

A Runner’s Guide to Tracks & Trails

6 Days on the Cape to Cape

Drive Your Story

The Craft Beer Crawl

Photo Essay: Main Break

Sip Your Way Around Small Scale Wineries

Tall Tales: Fred Annesley & the Gnarabup Swimmers

12 Colourful & Quirky Cafés