Ins & Outs of Trinidad & Tobago 2011 by Prestige Business Publications Ltd.

Trinidad Contents Interest

6 19 22 23

Calendar of Events History – Mayaro The Earliest Christmas in the World Silver Stars Steel Orchestra

Festivals

25 28 29 31 34 36

Carnival Traditional Masquerade Parade in Port of Spain The Last of the Wire Benders T&T Indian Festivals At the River: The Hindu Festival of Ganga Dashahara Trinidad and Tobago Fashion Week 2010

Shopping Art and Craft

53 55

Art on the Promenade Artists and Art Galleries

Touring

59 Ecotourism in Trinidad & Tobago 64 Paria and Brasso Seco

Beaches

67 69 Macqueripe on my Mind

Sights

71 73 Nature Seekers 74 Trinidad’s Famous ‘Pitch Lake’ 75 Our Lady of Montserrat

Sports

80 Enter the Dragons: Asian Ladies Conquer T&T 81 2010 Sports Review

Business

83 85 86 88 89 92 93

Coconut Entrepreneurs Meet Our Prime Minister Bringing Caribbean Film to Caribbean Communities Meet a Trini Writer: Michael Anthony All Work and No Play Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau Rooms of Flowers

Health & Beauty 95 Accommodation 99

109 Special Events

Restaurants

113 132 Fruits of Trinidad & Tobago 133 T&T Culinary Team Looks to Raise the Bar

Fast Facts Map of Port of Spain

134

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

135

Tobago Contents Interest

139 143 147 148 149 153

History Diving Tobago Carnival Regatta 2011 Tight Lines: Sport Fishing in T&T Carib Beer Great Race Trinidad and Tobago Fashion Week 2010 - Target Tobago 198 A Love Affair: The Beacon T&T Cycling Festival 151

Beaches

Tobago Festivals 156 Touring & Sights

Shopping

159 154 Richard ffrench: The Birdman of Trinidad & Tobago 160 Charlotteville: Remote, Romantic and Rustic 161 Castara: A Tourist Paradise 191 Gang Gang Sara: The Witch from Golden Lane 165

Property

169 173 Meet a Tobagonian: Soca Superstar Shurwayne Winchester

Nightlife

175 176 Jazz in the Callaloo: The 2010 Tobago Jazz Experience

Accommodation 181 Restaurants

193

Fast Facts

199

Hotels and Guest Houses of T&T

200

w w w . i n s a n d o u t s t t . c o m The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago 2011 The Exclusively Recommended In-Room Guide of The Trinidad Hotels, Restaurants & Tourism Association (THRTA) Tobago Hotel and Tourism Association (THTA) The Ins and Outs is widely distributed locally to visitors through hotel rooms, villas and guesthouses. It is delivered to 5000 subscribers of a leading newspaper. It also reaches residents through select merchants, conferences, seminars and business organisations. T&T’s overseas diplomatic missions and World Travel Market form part of the international distribution. Project Co-ordinators Patricia Lewis Marie Gurley Advertising Sales Patricia Lewis Marie Gurley Betti Gillezeau EditOR Desirée Seebaran Layout Desktop Designs & Letters Ltd. Patricia Lewis Sally Miller Design and Watercolours Eightzeronine Design Production Jessica Medina

Trinidad Cover Artist: Lisa Hutchinson

Production Assistants Candace Lennard Nichele West-Broome Photographers Luke Benai Edison Boodoosingh Stephen Broadbridge DeviNath Photography Martin Farinha Sancho Francisco Abigail Hadeed Anthony Harris Christian Hadeed Sade-le a Photography Sylvia Krueger (Oceans Discovery) Patricia Lewis CaféMoka Gallery Maria Nunes Kerron Riley Gregory Scott Mark Stothard Keown Thomas Gerrard Wilson writers Michael Anthony Walter Alibey Luke Benai Angelique Borde Lisa Ghany Dawn Glaisher Rick Haupt (Oceans Discovery) Louis B. Homer Nasser Khan Keith Lewis Christine Mahon Sharon Millar Maria Nunes Ruth Osman Ricardo Rambally Courtenay Rooks Desirée Seebaran Rosemary Stone Sheldon Waithe Published by Caribbean Tourism Publications Ltd. #9 Humphrey Street The Film Centre, St. James Trinidad and Tobago Tel: (868) 622-0738/9 Fax: (868) 622-0426 E-mail: info@insandoutstt.com Web site: www.insandoutstt.com

Tobago Cover Artist: James (Jim) Armstrong

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

While every care has been taken in the compilation of information contained in this guide, such information is subject to change without notice. The publishers accept no responsibility for such changes. Copyright © 2011 Caribbean Tourism Publications. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher. All rights reserved. Printed in Canada.

Calendar 2011 January 1st New Years Day 1st Horse Racing - Sian’s Gold Sprint, www.santarosapark.com 2nd Soca in Moka Fete 11th Sailing School Term Start 17th-22nd First Citizens Bank Certified Training Programme “Sport for All” UWI Spec 22nd Ranking Race TTSA 22nd TRIBE ICE (Insane Cooler Experience) - Jenny’s Carpark, Cipriani Blvd. 28th-31st TTGFA 16TH Annual Tournament + 16th Anniversary 28th St Francois Girls College Annual All-Inclusive - POS - 4pm 29th Outta De Blue Fete 29th One Fete 29th Blazin’ Soca (Fire Services Fete) - Wrightson Rd, POS 29th Hysteria “D Crazy Cook-out” - Chaguaramas 29th Chutney Soca Monarch Prelims 30th Island People Amnesia

January 6

calendar 201 Gregory Scott

February 4th First Citizen’s Bank Youth Awards of the Year 2010 @ Hyatt Regency 4th-6th Ranking Race TTSA 5th Bishop Anstey All-Inclusive Bishop Anstey Grounds, POS - 4pm 5th Chutney Soca Monarch Semi’s 6th UWI Annual All-Inclusive Carnival Fete - UWI Grounds (St Augustine) - 2pm 7th - 9th The Energy Chamber’s T&T Energy Conference 2011, Hyatt Regency Trinidad 9th First Citizens Bank Sports Awards of the Year 2010 @ NAPA 11th Bacchanal Factory (Bazodee Friday) - Pier 1, Chaguaramas - 9pm 12th Blue Flame All-Inclusive - Blue Range Courts 12th Fete With The Saints St. Mary’s All-Inclusive - St. Mary’s College (Pembroke St, POS) 12th Chutney Glow 13th Yorke All-Inclusive - UWI 13th Soca Monarch (Semi-Finals) 13th Bel Air All-Inclusive, Boujoix - La Romain

Stephen Broadbridge

16th Carnival Under The Trees - The Normandie 18th Central Bank All-Inclusive - Central Bank - 8pm 18th Ladies First - Pier 1, Chaguaramas - 9pm 18th-20th Tobago Carnival Regatta 741-9135 Nikki Borde: nikib@tstt. net.tt 19th-20th TTGFA Wahoo Fishing Tournament-Trinidad 19th Wicked in White - QP Oval 19th Licensing Fete 19th WASA Fete - St Joseph 19th Chutney Soca Monarch Skinner Park 19th Gal Farm - Venue T.B.A 20th PANORAMA SEMIS!!!!! 20th Friends of Blood Bank Fete - All-Inclusive 20th University School - All Inclusive 24th Corona Ladies Golf Tournament 24th Queens/ Kings Preliminaries (Seniors), www.ncctt.org

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

25th Misty Ridge - All-Inclusive - Hadeed Ranch 25th Wild Meat - All-Inclusive - Tunapuna 25th Army Fete - QP Savannah 26th Horse Racing – Arima Race Club Cup, www.santarosapark.com 26th & 27th Svelty Ladies Open Golf Tournament 26th Campus Carnival - All over UWI!!! 26th Fatima College All-Inclusive 26th Karma Sutra - Country Club, Maraval - 10pm 26th Chutney Brass 27th Junior Queens/ Kings Preliminaries, www.ncctt.org 27th Friends to the Max AllInclusive (CAREC– All-Inclusive) - QP Oval - 2pm 27th St George’s College AllInclusive - School Grounds 27th T&TEC Soca Shoka - St John’s Complex 27th Kari People All Inclusive YWCA, St Clair, POS 28th PNM Fete - POS - 9pm 28th Mardi Gras- 10pm

February

Calendar

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Patricia Lewis

March 1st Leather Back Turtle watching season begins in Trinidad and Tobago. Ends August 31st. 1st Junior Queens Final, www.ncctt.org 1st Eyes Wide Shut 1st  Zante- Macqueripe Rd, Chaguaramus - 4pm 2nd Fancy Sailors 2nd SOS Dutch Party 2nd Bacchanal Wednesday 3rd Salybia All Inclusive 3rd Beach House All Inclusive 3rd Escape to the Sanctuary - AllInclusive Salybia - 11am 3rd TRIBE Ignite - Venue to be announced - 9pm 3rd UWI Splash - Chaguaramas 4th Regional Traditional Carnival Junior Parade 4th Junior Kings Final 4th Blue Range Cooler Fete 4th Girl Power 4th Fantastic Friday 4th  Privilege ‘RISE’ - All Inclusive - Moka, Maraval - 9pm 4th Breaking Biche 4th Soca Monarch Finals 5th Panorama Finals, www.pantrinbago.co.tt 5th Trini Posse Fete – Bowen Marine Hangar, Chaguaramas

5th Island Style INSOMNIA Midnight- Mobs 2 5th Dawn, Sunrise In The City - Jenny’s Car Park 5th Junior Parade of Bands, www.ncctt.org 5th Lions - All Inclusive - Lions Civic Centre (Port of Spain) 6th Moka Xplosion Carnival Fete 6th Sunny Side Up All Inclusive 6th Dancing in the Santuary All Inclusive 6th Lara All Inclusive 6th  Mania 2010 - Free Drinks Country Club - 10pm 6th Vale Breakfast Party 6th Steelband & Folk Fiesta www.pantrinbago.co.tt 6th Dimanche Gras, www.ncctt.org 6th D’ Original Breakfast Party Diamond Vale, Diego Martin - 3am 6th  Harvard Club All Inclusive Fete - Harvard Club, St James  6th  Is Just a Fete (TASA) - Queen’s Hall, Port-of-Spain 6th Cotton Tree Foundation - All Inclusive - Spanish Acres 7th  Various Pre J’ouvert Fetes  7th  J’ouvert, www.ncctt.org 7th Carnival Monday Parade of the Bands, Port of Spain

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

7th 8th Tobago Carnival Parade, Scarborough 7th Monday Night Mas 8th Carnival Tuesday - Parade of the Bands, Port of Spain 8th Pan Trinbago Pan on the Road - Victoria Square and Downtown Port of Spain  8th Pan Trinbago Las’ Lap - Western Main Road, St James, www.pantrinbago.co.tt  8th  Various  Las Lap fetes / Events 9th Ash Wednesday 9th-13th ITB Berlin-World’s Leading Travel Trade Show 12th-13th SAGC Coca Cola Club Championship 13th Rainbow Warriors Triathlon Club Mini-Duathlon and 5km run (Energy Sunday) QP Savannah at 3pm 19th & 20th TTSA Gulf Race 24th-27th Car Rally (signature event, international competitors), www.rallytrinidad.com 24th-27th Ansa Mcal T&T Open Golf Tournament 26th- 27th Bridal Beauty & Beyond - Your Perfect Wedding 28th - 31st 16th Anniversary - Tobago International Game Fishing Tournament, www.tgft.com 30th - April 3rd Car Rally Trinidad 2011 30th Spiritual Baptist Liberation Day

March

Maria Nunes

Gerrard Wilson

April

May

June

3rd Scotiabank-Women on the move against Breast Cancer 9th Sagicor Invitational 14th-17th TTGFA Marlin Madness Tournament-Tobago, www.ttgfa.com 17th High Sierra Interschool Dragon Boat Regatta at Chaguaramas 17th-20th Golf Association-RBL C’BBN JNR OPEN 22nd Good Friday 24th Miss City of San Fernando Pageant 24th Easter Sunday 25th Easter Monday 24th & 25th Tobago Easter Crab and Goat Races, Marilyn Roberts 709-9084 30th Car Rally Trinidad 2011 (International Event) 30th Point Fortin Borough Day Tobago Powerboat Regatta (Date to be advised), 643-8600 • Sonfest / Gospel Programme, 639-1241 • The Beacon Cycling Classic tba, www.caribbeancycling.com • Tobago Jazz Experience at Pigeon Point - tba, www.whatsonintobago.com Jazz on the Beach tba, 639-8871

1st Car Rally, www.rallytrinidad.com 29th Apr - 8th May Pt Fortin Borough Day, Includes Dragon Boat Regatta 7th Point Fortin Pan On The Move 14th National Junior Trials - (Golf Association) 15th Rotary Club Charity 22nd Mercedes Trophy (Golf Association) 25th Cotton Tree Foundation Charity 26th-31st Trinidad and Tobago Fashion Week, www.twtt.org 28th - 29th 7th Annual Toyota Rainbow Cup International and 5km Run / Triathlon 30th Horse Racing – Guineas, www.santarosapark.com 30th Indian Arrival Day • Tobago Culinary Festival tba, www.visittobago.gov.tt or 639-2125/4636 • Trade and Investment Convention (TIC) www.tic-tt.com • Taste T&T, www.tdc.co.tt

3rd-11th We Beat Festival, www. webeat.org 11th-12th The Kingfish Tournament 18th Ranking Race Prizegiving Term Ends (TTSA) 19th- 1st Pigeon Point Dragon Boat Festival, www.lanternfestivaltt. com 19th Labour Day 23rd Corpus Christi 24th - 26th Charlotteville Fisherman Festival, 660-5521 24th - 26th San Fernando Fashion Week • Tobago Underwater Carnival tba, www.tobagounderwatercarnival.com

April May June

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

CaféMoka Gallery

July

August

September

1st-3rd Salsa Fiesta TnT at the Cascadia Hotel, Martin 471-5898, www.salsafiestatnt.com 7th -10th Rally Tobago (Signature Event), www.rallytrinidad.com 9th VITAMALT Junior Angler Fishing Tournament-Trinidad 11th - 22nd Summer Camp Alpha (TTSA) 25th Summer Camp Bravo Start, Ends August 5th • Tobago Heritage Festival, www. tobagohertigefestival.com or 6395016/4441 • Great Fete Weekend, email: greatfete@gmail.com or 788-6409 or 6-ticket

1st Emancipation Day, www. panafricanfestival.org 1st Horse Racing - Arima Race Club -Midsummer Classic (GRI) www. santarosapark.com 5th Summer Camp Bravo End 13th Caribbean Dinghy Championship 13th Horse Racing - President’s Cup 19th-21st Tarpon Thunder Fishing Tournament-Trinidad 19th-21st British Birdwatching Fair 28th City of Port Of Spain Duathlon and 4km fun run at 3pm 28th Guardian Holdings Dragon Boat Regatta at Chaguaramas 30th Eid-Ul-Fitr Celebrations, National Council of Indian Culture, 671-6242 31st Independence Day • Carib Great Race, www.ttpba.com • Tobago Mutahdi International Drumming Festival, www.visittobago.gov.tt

4th TTGA Skills Challenge Finals 10th Agostini Insurance Brokers Ladies Open 24th Horse Racing – Trinidad Derby Stakes, www.santarosapark. com 24th Republic Day 24th Horse Racing Diamond Stakes, www.santarosapark. comPresidents Award Golf Championship 27th World Tourism Day 28th Tobago International Cycling Classic, Ends 2nd Oct, www.trinbagowheelers.com • Trinidad and Tobago Film Festival, www.trinidadandtobagofilmfestival. com

July August September 14

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Martin Farinha

October

November

December

1st-2nd Orchid Festival 2nd Living Waters Golf Tournament 9th Chinese Arrival Dragon Boat Festival, Chaguaramas, www. lanternfestivaltt.com 16th Tobago Blue Food Festival, www.visittobago.gov.tt, 639-4636 26th Divali Celebrations, National Council of Indian Culture (NCIC), 671-6242 • 15th World Food Day • Tobago Fashion Collections, www.cfstyle.com • Opening of the Parang season by the National Parang Asociation, 667-3348 or 748-3533 • Trinidad and Tobago Steelpan & Jazz Festival, www. trinidadtobagosteelpanjazz.com Calypso History Month, www.tucott. com Car Rally Trinidad 2011 Finale (International Event)

7th-10th World Travel Market Funfish Tournament (TTGFA) 12th Professional Culinary Classics @ Centre of Excellence, Macoya 13th - 71st Annual Pan, Parang & Pork, Liz Namsoo, Invader Steel Orchestra (PRO) 345-3442 13th - Rainbow Warriors Triathlon Club Tag Team Triathlon Relay at Las Cuevas at 8am 19th & 26th - Silver Stars Parang and Steel, Tragarete Road 26th SAGC/Gruff’s 27th Junior Christmas Parang Party + Tournament Hamper Golfer of the year challenge • Scarborough Cup Golf Tournament

3rd, 10th and 17th - Silver Stars Parang and Steel, Tragarete Road 6th Hosay Celebrations, National Council of Indian Culture, 671-6242 8th SAGC Christmas White Hat (TTGA) 10th Mens Christmas Hamper(TTGA) 11th Ladies Christmas Hamper(TTGA) 12th Caddy Christmas Hamper(TTGA) 25th Christmas Day 26th Boxing Day 26th Horse Racing – Gold Cup, www.santarosapark.com Tobago Flying Colours Kite Flying Festival, 639-5428 31st - New Year/Old Year’s Celebrations

October November December 16

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Calendar

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

history Image courtesy Adrian Camps-Campins

mayaro by Michael Anthony

Mayaro is one of the earliest and most historic of all our villages. Although it has always been regarded as a remote area, Mayaro emerged as an important district even before the end of the Spanish colonisation. The interesting point is that Mayaro had been a settlement even before the island was colonised. The very word, “Mayaro”, is an Arawak word, referring to a plant which apparently grew in great profusion in the area and a plant that was of course important to the Arawaks. “Maya” is the word for the plant, and “ro” means “the place of”. Thus Mayaro: the place of the maya plant. Although the Arawaks had established a settlement here, they did not create villages as we know them. For instance, they formed no roads nor did they build houses, and so it was not until the 1780s that Mayaro became settled as a village. Of course, in 1783, the agreement took place which led to thousands of Caribbean French planters and their slaves coming to settle and to develop estates in Trinidad. The Spanish governor of the time, José Maria Chacón, settled some of them along the Mayaro coast. There were no roads whatsoever leading to this place, for almost the whole of Trinidad was covered with wild, virgin forests. The new immigrants had to be dispatched here by sea, and the sea had to be the highway for the transport of whatever they produced. By the time of the British conquest of 1797, the entire coast of Mayaro was already settled. Chacón had made no fewer than 33 grants of land to French planters along this coast. In that very year, the British captain of the Royal Surveyors on the expedition did a round-island survey at the request of the commander-in-chief, Sir Ralph Abercromby, and when he came to Mayaro he counted 65 cotton estates and a few estates of sugar cane and coffee. Taking a census of the area, he found that there were 403 inhabitants and that comprised 48 white people, 44 people of mixed race and 311 slaves. The captain of the Royal Surveyors, Frederick Mallet, gave a list of all the people granted land, and we see that among these were Huet, Mahau, Hugues, Radix, Thomasos, Raphael, Romain and Frontin. Many of these names

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

History

“Pulling seine” - those who helped the fishermen pull in their fishing net or seine would get some fish.

remained long after these early times, and up to today, families like Hughes (changed from Hugues) and Frontin still flourish in the district. There is also Point Radix, the name of the original grant made to Radix, and Lagon Mahau, which is a district with a lagoon that passes through the original grant of Mahau. The period of the capture was also the aftermath of the French revolution, and a lot Republicans from Martinique and Guadeloupe had fled to Trinidad in the wake of bitter unrest in these islands. Chacón had apparently made a few grants to Republicans of color, for names like Hugues and Frontin strongly suggest this. However, the majority of the people granted land at Mayaro were royalists, for Chacón, to avoid the conflict and bitterness that existed between royalist and Republican in the French islands, tried to separate them in Trinidad. Incidentally, the settlement of the Mayaro coast was begun by the royalist Phillipe Alphonse Gantaume, who in 1793 had fled revolutionary troubles in Martinique, taking to sea in an open boat and being washed up on the Mayaro coast. Stranded there, he got in touch with Governor Chacón, and Chacón made a grant of land to him, which he called Beau Séjour (Beautiful Sojourn). In addition to

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Image courtesy Adrian Camps-Campins

this estate Gantaume opened another shortly afterwards – St. Joseph Estate. These two estates are the first to have been established in Mayaro. The great problem for the planters was shipping out their produce. Mayaro had become an extremely productive region, and it was because of this and because of the fact that the settler Gantaume had become a very important figure in the region that Governor Sir Ralph Woodford in 1818 started the first round-island steamer service in Trinidad. Mayaro continued to be a productive region, although cut off by land from the rest of Trinidad, owing to the forests, by the complete absence of roads, and by the bridgeless Ortoire River, which commanded its entrance from the south and west. So cut off in fact was Mayaro that after the abolition of slavery in 1838, while slaves walked off the estates in other parts, in Mayaro they appeared to remain. This was certainly due to the fact that the region was so isolated that slave and slave owner, thrown together as they had always been, had developed an unusual relationship. In good time many of the original grants had passed on to former slaves.

History

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

experience

Patricia Lewis

The Trinidad

The Earliest Christmas in the World by Ricardo Rambally

Trinidad and Tobago is perhaps the only country in the world where Christmas begins as early as October. Why? October is when the parang festivals are launched. Parang is traditionally Christmas music in T&T, but the National Parang Association of Trinidad and Tobago, which hosts these festivities, helps Christmas come early every year through these early parang festivals. Parang is Hispanic folk music that has been around as long as T&T was occupied by Europeans! Some believe that parang came from the Spanish missions in Trinidad in the seventeenth century, who used music as a method of teaching the Gospels to the indigenous peoples. Groups of musicians and singers called ‘parranderos’ go from house to house bringing the Gospel in Spanish folk song. They carry with them traditional acoustic instruments: the cuatro (a small four stringed guitar-like instrument), the guitar, the mandolin and maracas. Some parranderos even use the flute and violin. Then there is the box bass – a huge heavy box which produces an extraordinary sound, but punishes the bearer for his past transgressions as he lugs it everywhere! The ritual is very rigid. The singers have to sing a ‘levanta’ or a wake up at the door and the host comes to greet them and give them a blessing (una bendición) He then invites them to enter. They sing the ‘anuncio’ or annunciation, the ‘nacimiento’ (Birth of Christ) and other songs. After the singing, a good host provides the parranderos with coffee, sorrel drink, ponche a crème (an alcoholic mixture of rum,

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

milk and eggs), ginger, cake, pastelles (cornmeal pies stuffed with meat) and more to feast on. When they are ready to leave, they sing a ‘despedida’: a goodbye song with a blessing. One member of the household usually accompanies the band to ensure that the gift of music can be taken to other homes. In the past, a good house parang could go on for days, linking families and communities. That’s the tradition. But these days, alongside the traditional setting, there are Parang festivals throughout the islands, none of which are as important as the one held by the Parang Association. Parang festivals have one unique feature not found at any other: the traditional dances. Parranderos dress very elegantly, not unlike when folks dressed for a gala night at the ballroom. The dances include the Joropo, the Castillan and various other traditional old world dances. The festivities continue every weekend until the grand finale to select the Parang Champions who will have bragging rights for one year. In 2010, the finals will be held on December 11 in the Borough of Arima. But that’s not the end. The curtain finally comes down at Le Rois, the festival of the Three Kings, which is celebrated annually by Catholics on January 6. Parranderos give one last impressive show to usher out the Christmas and to welcome the Carnival. The Parang Association will hold this final celebration a little earlier than usual on January 2, 2011. The renowned Parang bands today are the Lara Brothers, La Divina Pastora, Los Alumnos de San Juan, Los Parranderos de UWI and La Familia de Rio Claro. The art form is in very good hands. So, who’s for an early Christmas? Anyone wishing to contact the National Parang Association of Trinidad & Tobago should call them at (868) 222-2826, 355-5649 or 667-3348.

experience

The Trinidad

Silver Stars Steel Orchestra: T&T’s Champion Steel Band

used to read called Silver Screen about the Hollywood stars of the day. So somebody suggested that we take the first word of the magazine’s title and combine it with ‘Stars’…and that is how we came up with the name Silver Stars. In the early 1960’s, Silver Stars was one of the first to introduce classical music into a steel band repertoire, going on to record songs such as Die Fledermaus, Salut d’Amour and Elizabethan Serenade. The orchestra recorded frequently in its early years; today, those recordings are collectors’ items. Their most recent compilation is entitled Live and Alive, and the Silver Stars rendition of The Phantom of the Opera is greeted with thunderous applause wherever they perform nowadays. Silver Stars remains the only steel orchestra ever to win the Band of The Year title, a prize given to the most creatively costumed mas band (organised groups of costumed masqueraders). They entered themselves into the competition as a mas band in 1963, beating out legendary rivals George Bailey and Harold Saldenah with their interpretations of the characters and images from Jonathan Swift’s classic Gulliver’s Travels. An annual fixture at the orchestra’s headquarters around Christmas time is their weekly weekend concerts, a series of parang (Trinidad and Tobago’s traditional Christmas music) and steel pan fusion that attracts throngs of locals and visitors alike. The band has travelled widely since its inception and has huge crowd followings at international carnivals like Toronto’s Caribana.

Martin Farinha

It is universally recognised that the steel pan was the only musical instrument to be invented in the twentieth century, right here in Trinidad and Tobago. And a vibrant local musical culture has sprung up around this musical instrument. Various forms of the steel pan, accompanied by other musical instruments, are used to form a steel orchestra or steel band. Hundreds of steel orchestras vie bitterly every year for supremacy at Panorama, the largest steel band competition in the world, which takes place at the Queen’s Park Savannah in Port of Spain during the weekend before Carnival Monday. And the Silver Stars Steel Orchestra is one of these steel orchestras, a leader among the steel bands of today. They have copped the winners’ crown at Panorama in scintillating performances in 2009 and 2010 and will no doubt be seeking a hat-trick of victories in 2011. Sixty years ago, a group of high-school students from St. Mary’s College, Port of Spain, decided to buck tradition and get together to form a steel orchestra. This was the genesis of what today is the Silver Stars Steel Orchestra. The band has survived and flourishes at their headquarters in Newtown, Port of Spain, led by captain and arranger Edwin Pouchet. Roy Young, one of the founding members recalls: “Our name came about by chance…there was this magazine we

by Nasser Khan

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

carnival Abigail Hadeed

carnival by Ruth Osman

It started in the early 1800’s as a form of rebellion. Today, Trinidad Carnival, generally acknowledged to be ‘the greatest show on earth’, is used as the blueprint for festivals around the world. A two-day bacchanalian explosion of colour, rhythm and gyrating bodies, Carnival has evolved over the centuries. Before the emancipation of slaves in 1838, the mainly Catholic ruling class costumed themselves as slaves and paraded through the streets just before they observed Lent, a period of self-denial on the Roman Catholic calendar. After emancipation, however, the freed slaves participated fully in the carnival. The music and dances of the aristocracy were replaced with stick fighting, the African masquerade and drums. Despite attempts at suppression (the Canboulay Riots of 1881 were outbursts of rebellion against rumours that the police intended to squelch the slaves’ festivities), Carnival has survived and incorporated influences brought here by indentured servants and immigrants from countries as far as India, China and Syria. On March 7 and 8, 2011, the descendants of those peoples, along with thousands of visitors, meet in the streets to carry on the tradition. Although the two-day street celebration is the culmination of Carnival, the season starts long before. Carnival bands, groups of revellers that range in size from the tens to the thousands, launch their themes and costumes as early as August of the previous year. The large band category, consisting of bands with as many as ten sections, includes Harts, Spice, Island People, MacFarlane and Tribe. Pulse 8, Ronnie & Caro, and a number of steel bands are among those in the medium and small band categories. The partying starts as soon as the New Year rolls around. Carnival fetes, large, riotous open-air events, start in early January and are held every weekend leading up to Carnival Monday and Tuesday.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Carnival These high-octane parties showcase the talents of local and regional soca and chutney bands, who keep the audience jumping until the wee hours of the morning. These same musical talents come together in a series of competitions to vie for the titles of Power Soca Monarch, Chutney Soca Monarch and Groovy Soca Monarch. These competitions, attended by tens of thousands of people, are great fetes in themselves. Tents, which highlight calypso, the precursor of soca, also form part of the Carnival landscape. Icons like Black Stalin, Denyse Plummer and Shadow display their lyrical and melodic mastery next to newcomers like Jervae Caesar, Karen Ashe and Kizzy Ruiz. The calypsonians’ big night is Dimanche Gras, the Sunday before Carnival Monday – a grand event at which the Calypso Monarch, as well as the King and Queen of Carnival, is decided. Another competition, Panorama, evokes intense alliances and rivalries during the season. Steelbands, for many decades the lifeblood of Carnival, compete in a series of rounds until one is crowned Panorama champion and wins $1 million and a year’s worth of bragging rights. On Carnival Monday morning, before the sun comes up, figures smeared with oil, paint and mud start to assemble on the roads. The twoday festival has begun with J’Ouvert (daybreak). Traditional carnival characters like the blue devils, Jab molassie, Midnight Robber, fancy sailor and Pierrot Grenade walk the streets, using gestures and gaits that have become stylised over the decades. Later, the bands come out to play in simpler versions of their costumes. On Tuesday morning, determined to the make the most of the last day of Carnival, revellers burst out in their finery and the streets become rivers of colour. Large trucks blast out the soca offerings of the year and the party doesn’t end until after sundown. Like the late Kitchener sang, “the Carnival is over”. But there is always next year to look forward to.

Keown Thomas

experience

Martin Farinha

The Trinidad

Traditional Masquerade Parade In Port of Spain by Nasser Khan Masqueraders are expected to take over the streets of Port of Spain on Carnival Monday and Tuesday. But on the Friday preceeding these festival days, you’ll see a different type of masquerader: the colourfully dressed Dame Lorraine with her exaggerated derriere; the dramatic and manic Midnight Robber in all black; or even the fluttering mulitcoloured costumes of Pierrot Grenade, alternative speller extraordinaire. These are just a few of the characters you’ll see at the Traditional Characters Festival, which is held in Port of Spain on the Friday before Carnival Monday and Tuesday. This festival ensures that the traditions and traditional characters portrayed in carnivals of yesteryear, which have helped to make Trinidad and Tobago’s annual pre-Lenten Carnival so well known the world over, are not forgotten. The National Carnival Commission (NCC) organises the event and they hold regional workshops in the weeks leading up to the Carnival, culminating in some 40 parading bands through the streets of the capital city of Port of Spain. A procession of pomp and splendour, dance, creativity and

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colour characterises the Traditional Characters Festival and is eagerly awaited by mas lovers, including tourists who come to witness one of the season’s highlights. One of the particularly interesting facets of this 3 to 4-hour parade is the predominance of the younger masqueraders who revel to the infectious rhythms of the calypso and steelpan drums. Mas players are accompanied down the street by traditional music as well. Traditional Carnival characters assemble at various points throughout the city at Memorial Park, Victoria Square and South East Port of Spain Secondary School, leaving their respective venues simultaneously at 12:00 noon. Masqueraders use the roadway as their stage. At approximately 3:00 p.m., over four thousand young masqueraders, led by their tutors, who themselves are individual characters, begin to converge in the vicinity of the City Hall to further show off their workmanship emanating from the fifty-two workshops conducted in schools and communities throughout the country. Some characters on display included the Bats, Minstrels, Clowns, Sailors and Fancy Indians among others. Banners, showing the names of the groups and their portrayals, sponsored by Samaroo’s Limited, the country’s largest supplier of carnival materials, were provided for each workshop.

Meet My search for one of Trinidad and Tobago’s few remaining wire benders takes me to the teeming east quarter of Port of Spain, through the bustling streets where pedestrians and vendors have right of way, and the powerful odour of roasting coffee beans rides the city. Pulling up in front of the address given by my quarry, I see a diminutive man, shirtless and spry, emerging out of the rows of government apartments on George Street. Senor Gomez leads me up the darkened staircase to his fourth floor apartment. His name is actually Narcenio Gomez. Because of the trouble Trinbagonians have in pronouncing any exotic name, he was re-baptized Senor. His story of a life shaped by wire, steel and passion tumbles out onto the sunlit kitchen table with no respect for chronology or context. Born to Venezuelan parents in 1931 on Charlotte Street, Senor Gomez was drawn to the steelband, much to the chagrin of his parents. They, like others of their time, saw this as the way of the dark side since steelpan was associated with criminals. As an adolescent, he would head for a nearby mas camp after school, transfixed as the shapeless wire yielded to creative force, coming to life in the hands of a mentor. Very soon, Gomez was being trained in the ways of sailor mas. Most of his earliest artistic expression was inspired by prevailing influences in society, among them the arrival of naval vessels during the thirties and forties and the outpouring of American and British sailors onto the streets of Port of Spain. The mimicry was wondrous. Ordinary white tunics were transformed into noisy uniforms with gold-roped epaulettes and hand designed motifs emblazoned on the back. Senor’s special touch took shape in the King Sailor, distinguished by the comically oversized, richly embellished crown. As I sit in the tiny kitchen irradiated by punishing noonday sun, Senor Gomez is flitting about the apartment with dizzying enthusiasm. He brings in an example of the ‘headmask,’ another element of the sailor mas and an ideal specimen of the wire bender’s boundless imagination and skill. This accessory is designed to be strapped to the back. The wire frame supports a complex mélange of materials and colours that when worn appear almost as the conceited display of the male peacock’s feathers behind the head of the masquerader. “Boy, this mas ting is really beautiful eh. I never make no money but this is my life,” he told me. On the walls of Senor’s apartment there are so many photographs and awards that the original paint scheme is nearly lost. His prowess with wire is widely known and he rarely has a moment’s respite, fulfilling requests from bigger bands hoping to bring shape to their designs. His wife Lynda, whom he married at the age of twenty, grumbles that he never charges an appropriate sum for his services. I look closely at a majestic wirework yet to be covered

by Paolo Kernahan

Abigail Hadeed

The last of the wire benders

a Trin i

Senor Gomez

with material, studying the way in which this malleable metal is joined by mere masking tape. No measurements, no blueprints, just a very rough sketch and a mind that is a 24-hour dream factory. “A lady in Connecticut once asked me, ‘So you don’t have to draw anything to build your costumes?’ ” Gomez points to his salt and pepper head: “Is all there!” But this grand tradition has suffered severe attrition with the march of time. New fashions prevail in modern mas, relegating traditional characters to little more than archaic symbols of another era. Arthritic hands retire, no longer capable of commanding the wire. The far less romantic fiberglass is slowly growing in appeal. Easier to work, more rigid and requiring less skill, it offers a sturdy challenge to the conventional art. However, there are drawbacks to fiberglass; it’s more expensive, for one thing. It remains to be seen whether classes in wire bending taught at some schools by people like Senor will keep the tradition alive. But for now, he and others like him are the standard bearers. Senor and Lynda put on their costumes for me and I share a big moment in a small apartment: the dance of the last of the wire benders.

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festivals 30

CafĂŠMoka Gallery

T&T’s Indian festivals by Desiree Seebaran

Trinidad & Tobago’s Hindu and Muslim festivals were brought here by the Indian indentured workers who first arrived in 1845. The glory and drama of their religious celebrations are now celebrated national holidays and events. Ramleela It is said that the East Indians who migrated to T&T as indentured servants came clutching a copy of the Hindu holy text, the Sri Ramcharimanas or Ramayana, under their arms. And annually, their descendants honour that devotion by performing dramatic interpretations of the epic Hindu saga of Ramleela, found in the Ramayana. Hundreds of people flood savannas and sports grounds in central Trinidad as volunteer players portray the timeless struggle between good and evil as seen in the life of Shree Ram, an avatar of one member of the Hindu Trinity, Lord Vishnu. Each of T&T’s approximately 36 Ramleela groups acts out this drama between September and October each year, usually on open ground (without a stage). The productions can use up to 100 players and take between nine to 11 nights to complete. The sacred spectacle will draw you into the richness of one of T&T’s most widely practised religions.

Divali This Hindu ‘festival of lights’ is held on the darkest night of the month of Kartik, which runs from midOctober to mid-November. Sometimes called ‘Diwali,’ Divali is characterised by the spectacular display of hundreds of lit deyas (small clay lamps) outside houses, on walls and perched upon home-made bamboo stands. Deyas are said to have lit Shree Ram’s path back to Ayodia after his exile.

T&T’s Indian Festivals Divali is celebrated all over the world, with devotees wishing each other ‘Shubh Divali’ or ‘Happy Diwali’. In the Caribbean and especially in T&T, the festival is celebrated in accordance with the custom in the Indian provinces of Bihar, West Bengal and Uttar Pradesh, since many indentured servants came from these areas. Because Divali traditionally marks the end of the harvest season in many countries, Hindus honour goddess Lakshmi with a puja at 6:00 pm, just when the first deya is lit, to thank her for bringing wealth and prosperity. They may abstain from meat, alcohol or intimate relations for up to a month before Divali, and ensure that their houses are kept clean so that Mother Lakshmi will enter on Divali night and bless the household. On the day itself, Hindus prepare feasts with special food and sweets to share with their neighbours, wear new clothes and look forward to the year ahead.

Phagwa It’s hard to believe that this picturesque spring festival, celebrated by children and adults alike, has such gruesome symbolism. But it’s true; Phagwa is the celebration of the death of Hiranyakashipu, a king who was blessed by the creator Brahma but used his power for evil instead of good. He was killed by an avatar of Lord Vishnu because of his evil deeds and intentions toward his son Prahalad, a true devotee. Hindus celebrate Phagwa by playfully squirting a coloured fluid called abeer on each other in pastoral settings, representing the spurting blood of King Hiranyakashipu.

Ramadan and Eid Ul Fitr Ramadan is the Islamic month of fasting, which may fall anywhere between August and November since the Islamic calendar is lunar and not fixed like the solar calendar. Muslims are commanded to fast from eating and drinking during this month from dawn until dusk; the purpose of this fast is to remember those who are less fortunate. They may also give alms to the poor at this time. Fasting increases a Muslim’s taqwah (relationship with Allah) and so when they make dua (pray), their prayers are more likely to be heard and answered. At the end of Ramadan, Eid Ul Fitr is a feasting festival, but over-eating is not considered true Islam. Families wear new clothes, eat breakfast, then visit their mosque for prayers. Afterward, they may go to visit friends and family to share a meal with special sweets and pastries. During this time, Muslims and non-Muslims commonly greet each other with ‘Eid Mubarak’ or ‘Happy Eid.’

Martin Farinha

T&T’s Indian Festivals At the River: The Hindu Festival of Ganga Dashahara

By Desiree Seebaran

Water has always been a symbol of spiritual purity, of cleansing and of renewed dedication in many world religions. One of the most sacred and colourful of the Hindu festivals celebrated in Trinidad and Tobago is Ganga Dashahara, a festival that originated on the banks of the Ganga River (or ‘Ganges’ as the British called it). The festival celebrates the descent of the divinity Ganga from the celestial region to earth, in order to release the souls of the sons of King Sagara after five generations of self-denial. It is said that the waters are spiritually renewed annually on the anniversary of the descent, the tenth tithi (lunar day) of the Hindu month of Jyeshtha, which runs from May 21 to June 22 each year. Ganga Dashahara in T&T was revived in 1994, and takes place at the source of the Marianne River in Blanchisseusse, Arima. The river was consecrated by water and dust from over 2000 holy rivers and places in India. Wearing yellow, a colour that represents purity and religious restraint in Hinduism, devotees walk along the river to its source. They fast for several weeks to attend this puja (ceremonial worship), and all observe an attitude of total reverence while visiting this tirath (the name for a Hindu holy place or the pilgrimage to one). Worshippers carry offerings of buttercups, fruits, milk and other items and stop at several points (ghats) along the way to perform pujas and other religious activities. There are special blessings for newlywed and engaged couples as they worship Ardhanarishvara, a half-male, half-female Hindu divinity who teaches about perfect unity of both sexes in marriage. The Mundan Sanskar Ghat is where young children’s heads are shaved for the first time as a purification ritual and to mark a milestone in their development. At a small natural cave on the bank of the river, devotees worship two forms of Bhagwan Shiva. This divinity consented to allow the powerful flow of Ganga to fall into his matted hair so that the impact of the fall would not shatter the earth. Raviji, a local visionary and Hindu leader, found a stone on the riverbed with the sacred Hindu mantra ‘Om’ inscribed on it by nature. It was consecrated as the Shiva Lingam, and is kept in this cave. The Ganga murti, the image which represents the river’s divinity, is made of bio-degradable materials. The murti is worshipped and ceremoniously immersed into the water to help worshippers experience the transition of the divine spirit from visible to invisible. One of the important activities of the day is the worshipping of the river and by extension all waters and the earth itself with the community arti, which is a ritual of offering of the sacred light in an act of absolute reverence. The festival places special emphasis on environmental and ecological purity as well. No one is allowed to pollute the river with saliva, blood, excretions, poisons, chemical impurities or any substances that aren’t bio-degradable. All offerings, like the buttercups placed in a yellow sari and allowed to float downriver, are either bio-degradable or are collected downriver at a sieve placed there by the organisers, who spend days before and after the festival cleaning the river. There are also discussions on how man is connected to nature and to God, as well as skits highlighting environmental issues. At the end of the tirath, worshippers expect to be transformed, renewed and cleansed by their devotions. The river is said to remove sin, and the rituals help to renew family values and community ties. And the devotees renew their commitment to keeping the environment, and all waters, pure and sacred for generations to come.

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Martin Farinha

Kerron Riley

Trinidad and Tobago Fashion Week 2010

by Luke Benai

The 2010 Trinidad and Tobago Fashion Week (FWTT3), held from May 29 to June 6, made a global impact simply by doing what T&T locals do each day: staying on fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cutting edge while making the impossible a reality with whatever resources we have on hand. This year, FWTT3 participants focused on promoting biodiversity through proactive initiatives towards the preservation of the environment. Designers and manufacturers were encouraged to use materials, techniques and methodologies that enhance the wearer, while promoting and contributing to the preservation of the environment. FWTT3 also featured a number of seminars and workshops along with nightly fashions shows. These seminars were conducted by local and foreign experts in various fields within the fashion industry as well as the financial arena,

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and were designed to help participants look ahead and help promote the future of the T&T fashion industry. The hard work of the eventâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s production team, led by designer Dianne Hunt, paid off big time as the shows, designs and the models received high praise from international news outlets like the Wall Street Journal, Toronto Sun, the BBC and other publications, television networks and web sites throughout the United States, Canada, Britain, Europe, Far East and other destinations. Shows held at the Hyatt Regency Hotel, Port of Spain, were sold out and people were still hoping to be lucky enough to be squeezed into the magically transformed space where the couture creations of amazing local designers were featured on the ramp each night. Roughly 50 designers, from developing newcomers to top in-demand veterans, participated in FWTT3 this year all of them presenting high-quality fashion that will easily attract attention on the international market. These fashion shows were more than beautiful models strutting down the runways to music; they were actually cultural experiences

Sancho Francisco

that brought together elements of music, mas, dance and other expressions to accompany the models as they took the ramp. Trinidad and Tobago is a tropical climate, but the fashions created by our designers are not only suited for tropical markets. The unique presentations on each night left the audiences, which included international fashion critics and buyers, ministers of government and members of the business elite, in awe and wanting more. Even Prime Minister of Trinidad and Tobago Kamla Persad-Bissessar was so impressed by what she experienced at FWTT3 that she’s spoken out on the industry’s behalf, asserting that the local fashion industry has the potential to become a major force on the international front. The Prime Minister was also moved to ensure allocations and other incentives for designers and other players in the arena in T&T’s 2010 budget. The men commanded the attention on June 2, which was night one for FWTT3 at the Hyatt in Trinidad. The clothing featured ranged from casual, fun wear such as designer t-shirts and jackets to uniquely cut suits and business wear, all with that Trinbagonian flair. In keeping with the biodiversity focus, designers used a lot of cotton and linen and their accessories were made of natural and even recycled materials.

Kerron Riley

Night two at the Hyatt saw more of what can be done with natural fabric and eco-friendly materials. Radical Designs, Geopa, Brown Sugar, Simply Garnett’s, Pat and Pearl Haute Couture, Donna Dove New York, Avark, Favala, Pilar, Millhouse and The Cloth took the ramp before a packed audience that cheered throughout the show. Peter Elias led the pack on June 5 which was titled New World Style and featured some avant-garde pieces from a mix of experienced and developing designers, including Dav Originals, Donna Pemberton Designs, Rodney Alexander Designs, Mariska’s, Cia’s Fashion Designs, Themudtoneproject, Mille Wearable Art, Spice Rack Designs and Saleem. Even child models had an opportunity to showcase their talent at FWTT3 when several of them took the ramp to display the creations of Geopa children’s wear line, which featured designs that were both functional and eye catching. These little ones were a big hit with the audience. Of course, the presentations of fashion mavens Heather Jones, 2010 national award winner Claudia Pegus, Shurnel and Concept Studio stood out during the T&T’s week of extravagant fashion.

Fashion Week 37

shopping

shopping by Christine Mahon

There is pure exhilaration that comes with the words, “Let’s go shopping!” No less so than here in Trinidad and Tobago, where the diversity of the population is reflected in the myriad choices available to shoppers searching for just about anything ‘under the sun’. The accelerated influx of our South American and regional neighbours as traders, vendors and consumers attest to the attractive and rewarding experience of shopping in Trinidad and Tobago. For the comfort shopper, there are several shopping malls and plazas strategically placed from Port of Spain in the north, stretching from west to east, to San Fernando in the south; all easily accessible from the main highways and providing secure and ample parking. These modern malls offer the convenience of banking facilities, food courts, and restaurants as well as a wide cross section of sophisticated retail stores, including books, jewelry, art, fashion, leather goods, flower shops, home furnishings and more. Several of the major malls also have the convenience of some of the larger chains of supermarkets on their doorstep, stocked with all culinary and household necessities. Trinidad and Tobago’s colourful history and ethnicity is celebrated with innumerable cultural, religious and historical events. In true Trini fashion, this justifies more than a record number of reasons to have sales throughout the year - truly a shopper’s euphoria! Witness at the same time, the superb mall decorating that accompanies these events. Particularly around the busy Christmas season, there is little to rival the lavish décor of the malls created by the best of local talent. Enjoy a bonus of live entertainment like parang and carols while you shop.

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Shopping In the north-west, visit The Falls at Westmall for world class shopping. With 130 stores as well as two major banks, cellular phone centers, food court or choice of cozy cafés to rest those weary legs. From there, navigate the quaint and busy St. James shopping district over to Ellerslie Plaza for some sophisticated outdoor shopping or venture on to Long Circular Mall one of Trinidad’s first malls and a landmark shopping centre. For one-stop satisfaction, MovieTowne entertainment & shopping complex at Invaders Bay boasts a ten-screen multiplex cinema, over forty premier shops and several popular restaurants, set in a beautiful outdoor Mediterranean-themed shopping sanctuary. Heading east along the Churchill Roosevelt Highway, other shopping destinations include the Valpark Shopping Plaza and the City of Grand Bazaar while Centre Pointe Mall and Centre City Mall serve Chaguanas. Gulf City Mall, further south in La Romain, has its own cluster of unique boutiques, a designated section just for children’s shopping with a convenient play area as well as a five-storey car park in progress. Trincity Mall, located in the east, has undergone tremendous expansion and is now one of the largest malls in the country with a branch of every major local store, a multiplex cinema, two food courts and several excellent restaurants which continue to lure patrons from the west. ‘Downtown’ the country’s capital of Port of Spain, shoppers encounter a web of narrow roads, many of which now post bilingual (English and Spanish) signs. Bearing memories of horse and buggies and tramcar lines, these well-traversed streets are lined with everything from seasoned travel agencies

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to optometrists’ offices stocked with fashionable frames for the whole family. Bookstores, jewelry, clothing and shoe shops brimming with the latest fashions along with a procession of fabric stores, stretch from corner to corner fringed with sidewalk vendors selling everything from music CDS to underwear. The textile stores stock a wide variety of materials and trimmings – exotic batiks and fine sari silks, upholstery and drapery fabrics, bridal and evening wear, men’s suiting and elegant linens – the choices are endless and the prices excellent. With the growing sophistication of the population, interior designers have certainly found their niche, satisfying a variety of tastes for people seeking their advice when furnishing their homes. Talented and skilled artisans make drapery and soft furnishings to international standards. Carnival fabrics and accessories of an infinite selection are also readily available to fill the great demand that extends throughout the year as our regional neighbours shop for their various carnival celebrations. The construction industry, still a lucrative business in Trinidad and Tobago, has facilitated many gated communities of both condominiums and single-dwelling homes. Apart from a choice of attractive, readily available apartment complexes, the trend continues for architect-designed homes and interiors to be professionally appointed and furnished. By extension, the desire for good quality furniture and fittings to satisfy both modern and traditional tastes for small and large spaces has boosted the competitive market. Mexican and Guyanese furniture, with its allure of beautiful wood and rustic lines, are very popular and regularly imported to satisfy the constant demand. Indoor and

Shopping outdoor sets, West Indian antiques and contemporary pieces manufactured in Asia as well as North American traditional furniture are all accessible and easily accessorised with home furnishings from both local and international suppliers. While â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;downtown,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; dart into the landmark Excellent City Centre, the closest thing to a department store with a variety of over sixty shops. There you will find a vast selection of items of every description from clothing to household items. Also at MovieTowne, Excellent Stores opens seven days a week. On the western end of downtown Port of Spain, the Edward Street Parkade car park provides several stories of sufficient parking. From there, you can visit the ultra-modern National Library nearby on Abercromby Street or stroll as far as Charlotte Street and discover all manner of intriguing goods. Variety stores sell an array of Chinese preserved fruits at wholesale prices, cast iron and enamel pots and wares seldom found anywhere else in Port of Spain, as well as household and car furnishings such as windshield wipers and other random buys at unbeatable cost! Keep the lines of communication open with mobile phones from your choice of mobile phone centres located at the malls, plazas or cell phone outlets. Top up cards are available at most supermarkets and drugstores as well as from otherwise extensively advertised and easily identified distributors. Away from the comfort zone of Malls and Plazas, a journey along the highways and byways of Trinidad and Tobago yields a number and variety of local and foreign fruit, vegetables, leather craft and imported goods found at the many roadside vendors plying their trade in Port of Spain, Chaguanas and most of the East West Corridor.

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Shopping The more adventurous shoppers can easily veer off the southbound highway and meander through Chaguanas unearthing remarkable forms of pottery and household treasures to satisfy a range of decorators’ dreams. ‘The East’, as locals refer to this area, purport to have the best prices around. In recent years, the visiting Indian Trade Fairs and Expos have graced our shores much to the delight of shoppers nationwide. Seek and enjoy a range of ethnic clothing, Eastern style furniture, exquisite Indian jewelry and home furnishings. Look out for advertisements which appear in the local press especially around Divali. The UpMarket, relatively new to local shopping, recently introduced the idea of a unique shopping experience. Held at a designated venue ideally one Saturday a month, the market promotes fresh produce and novel ideas from a rotation of vendors while maintaining a high level of quality control. Local farmers introduce fresh herbs and plants, honey from the honeybees of the Aripo hills and a bountiful burst of local flora and fauna. Homemade sauces, dips and delicacies; meats and fish, juices and deserts, ready to eat or conveniently packaged for easy access at a later date, all make a welcome display. Specialty health products, jewelry and local art along with any number of surprising commodities await the UpMarket shopper. The lure of the ‘motherland’ is evident in the growth of specialty businesses spring-up out the multi-ethnicity that is Trinidad and Tobago. Beautifully crafted African baskets, unique

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artifacts in wood, stone and copper from Ghana, Kenya, Nigeria and Zimbabwe can be found. Across to the splendor of the Indian sub-continent, in Woodbrook customers can enjoy the ambience of an Indian Tea room and a fine selection of jewelry, clothing, gifts and home interior accessories. Fashion is constantly and consistently blossoming in Trinidad and Tobago. The people of this cosmopolitan state readily embrace international fashion and shoppers can be confident that the latest styles sporting both local and foreign labels will be beckoning from every show window. Caribbean flare can be found not only in the expected casual, beach and trendy wear but leaping out in the form of creative formal and unique collections of clothing produced by talented local fashion designers. Every occasion and season is a reason to dress up or down, starting with the fun and trendy for Carnival early in the year, all the way through to the glitz and glamour of Christmas and every excuse for an ‘outfit’ in between. If you are lucky enough to be in Trinidad and Tobago for Fashion Week, treat yourself to a display of talent and vision from the pool of gifted designers, models and entertainers who facilitate this event. Since its initial launch in 2007, patrons have tremendously enjoyed the entire experience of this themeinduced happening, from the captivating procession of beautiful models clad in fabulous garments to a range of men’s clothing, children’s attire, swimsuits and casual wear – all accessible to eager customers. Beauty regime need not be sacrificed while away from home. With the explosion of estheticians and beauty supply shops

Shopping radiating across the country, rest assured that your needs can be readily met with expertise and fashion zeal, cognizant of the beauty of the people of Trinidad and Tobago not only on the inside but on the outside as well. Pharmaceutical or drug stores, like nationwide chain SuperPharm, are plentiful and easily accessible, adequately stocked with essential and prescribed medications, toiletries and beauty products. Several of these establishments offer twenty-four hour service for customer convenience. Books, bookstores and libraries, still hold their own amongst the ever-growing music and DVD mania. Current international bestsellers, childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;sâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; books, publications on craft and hobbies, school curriculum books and a range of proudly produced work by Trinidadian and Caribbean writers and publishers, grace the shelves of reputable bookshops in every mall and throughout the towns. Souvenir shops can be found in the malls and plazas, in the towns and several locations at Piarco International Airport. Trinidad and Tobago flags, pottery, ornaments, kitchenware and knickknacks bearing the red, white and black fill the shelves, along with clothing portraying local scenes and Trini humour for both adults and children. A wide range of the famous steelpans and accessories are available at the Selection House in downtown Port of Spain. Panland Trinidad & Tobago Limited, the largest full-scale steelpan manufacturer in the world proudly supplies to commercial and retail customers on all continents. Jewelry is another excellent choice for gifts as well as personal pleasure. Several talented local jewelers and artists make their own elegant and extensive collection of fine jewelry.

A broad spectrum of styles influenced by European, East Indian and South American designers can be found of both delicate and local flare. Creative use of natural materials, gemstones, sterling silver from South America and Indonesia and precious gold at excellent prices, provide a wide choice for shoppers. Art is alive and well in the wealth of talent abounding in Trinidad and Tobago as exhibited at the numerous galleries and framing companies accessible at the malls, plazas and dotted around Port of Spain. Paintings, prints and sculpture, work done in wrought iron and every imaginable form, innovative style and material can be sought after. Along your route of purchase, bread and cakes, still traditionally important to many a Trinbagonian household, are readily available. Most of the larger supermarkets now make their own freshly baked goods or follow the scent and signs of any one of the many bakeries as you traverse the towns and side roads. Gallons of local condiments and preserves continue to make its way out of Trinidad and Tobago, gracing the tables and households of those abroad. Pepper sauce and jellies, preserved local fruit, chutney made with tamarind, mango or kuchela, authentic spices and herbs used in local cuisine can all be purchased at supermarkets or airports. Alcoholic beverages with a wide range of brands and mixes are available in Trinidad & Tobago. Inquire about our fine local rums and world-renowned Angostura aromatic bitters. Selections can be found in the beverage section of the supermarkets, smaller groceries and food stores and at excellent duty-free prices at the airport. Specialty liquor and sophisticated brews can

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Shopping also be sourced from shops catering to a variety of requests. Locally produced chocolates and coffee, such as the fine coffee blended by the Hong Wing family since 1921, are also available at the supermarkets, factory outlets and airport stores. The resurgence of interests in the use of locally grown cocoa has recently produced a decadent display of exquisite chocolate delicacies by several local chocolatiers. Wine consumption is on the rise and along with it the knowledge and keen interest of its consumers and suppliers. Several wine outlets have sprung up over the years and provide a range of services and expertise. Wines from wine producing regions around the world, including Chile, South Africa, Europe, Australia, New Zealand and the USA are available at prices to suit all pockets and occasions. Visit Vintage Imports for a unique personal experience and ambience, its fine selection of wines and excellent service extending from Port of Spain to San Fernando and across to Tobago. Gourmet shops are also emerging at quite a pace. Handin-hand with the finer purchases for gastronomic shoppers, Malabar Farms stocks top quality steak and meats, seafood, cheeses, deli meats and specialty platters, imported breads and also offers gift baskets on order. Peppercorns, located in Ellerslie Plaza and Westmall, imports a weekly supply of fresh fruit and vegetables. Frozen foods including steaks and seafood as well as deli meats, cheeses and dairy, chocolates and confectionary are some of their wonderful choices. Trinidad and Tobago offers extensive Duty-Free shopping

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Shopping to the travelling public with prices that are among the most reasonable in the region. At Piarco International Airport, a procession of shops unfolds for both inbound and outbound passengers navigating their way through the concourse. The first floor level shops (accessible via the stairs or escalator) are available to both arriving as well as departing customers. Gold and silver jewelry and Swarovski crystals sparkle and wink from shelves and showcases. Sweet tobacco and alluring perfumes, designer eyewear by Channel, Prada, Oakley, Maui Jim and Ray Ban, leather goods, books and local T-shirts and craft, cosmetics, chocolates and confectionery are some of the many purchases to be made. For that special gift, why not browse the selection of CDs and music or opt for a treat of Champagne, port, aged Caribbean rum, scotch or other spirits. For the convenience of departing passengers, duty-free purchases are delivered to the designated aircraft. However, a cautionary note here: transactions close off one hour prior to flight departure to facilitate prompt delivery to the aircraft. Crown Point International Tobago also offers duty-free shopping, so spare some time to purchase those last-minute souvenirs. Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not forget the seafaring traveler! Nestled amongst the yachts at Crews Inn, Chaguaramas, Apadoca provides ocean-bound craft leaving the country with duty-free alcohol and cigarettes or you can simply choose from the dutypaid selection. Money can buy a little bit of happiness, you simply have to know where to go shopping. And thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always easy in Trinidad and Tobago.

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Shopping

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art and craft 52

Patricia Lewis

art on the promenade by Darren Farfan

The Brian Lara Promenade, in the heart of downtown Port of Spain (POS), is a vibrant public space that serves both as an important pedestrian thoroughfare and recreational park. It is an attraction to tourists as well as a distraction for locals who frequently visit this busy central business district. With its rows of trees, benches and landscaped open spaces, the ‘Promenade,’ as it is affectionately known, is a vital green lung that provides a welcome sanctuary from the hustle and bustle of city life. In early 2010, as part of a wider effort to enhance and beautify downtown POS, the western end of the Promenade was transformed into a public art gallery featuring the artwork of talented primary school students. The Promenade exhibit, loosely titled, ‘Trinidad and Tobago’ was composed to demonstrate how the simplest things in life often provide the greatest pleasures. The inspirational images express the vitality of local life as seen through the innocent eyes of young children. Three schools contributed to this first exhibit: Maple Leaf International, Sacred Heart Girls’ Roman Catholic School and Dunross Preparatory School. Colourful drawings, paintings, mosaics and collages that graced their classroom walls were digitally photographed, printed on removable adhesive sheets and installed on specially designed aluminium frames. The sequence of panels tells a compelling story about T&T’s culture and the importance of living in harmony with nature.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Patricia Lewis

Art and Craft

Art on the Promenade expresses the vitality of local life as seen through the innocent eyes of young children. The Art on the Promenade was the brainchild of landscape architect, David Smith of Down South Design Limited, who in partnership with GENIVAR T&T prepared an overall master plan for the renovation and upgrading of the Promenade. The master plan was commissioned by the Ministry of Local Government in cooperation with the Port of Spain City Corporation, the East Port of Spain Development Company and the Promenade Management Association. The Art on the Promenade exhibit was the first phase of implementation of the master plan. The display was produced by the Label House Group who also created similar public displays along the ground level façade of the Waterfront towers and the perimeter wall of the Queen’s Park Oval.

The colourful displays of art in these public forums successfully illustrate Trinidad and Tobago’s rich culture of creativity and flair for the dramatic. While these two other public exhibits were composed by and designed to promote prominent local artists, the stunning Promenade exhibit showcases the talents of an upcoming generation and serves to infuse a sense of pride, admiration and respect for this important civic space.The treatment of the public realm, especially open spaces, is a reflection of a nation’s culture and society. Parks, walkways and other public spaces do indeed belong to the people. Because of this, there is often a diverse group of stakeholders staking claim to their use and proper management becomes a formidable challenge.

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The primary objective of projects like the Art on the Promenade is to create intrinsic value for the people that use this space. In this way, fundamental challenges of how public open space is perceived, treated and managed are overcome because civic pride promotes civic responsibility. The success of the Art on the Promenade display proves that with vision, proper planning and stakeholder support, all challenges can be overcome. This first phase demonstrates how small improvements can optimise the use and enjoyment of civic space. It also provides a basic model that can be replicated in other urban parks and plazas throughout Trinidad and Tobago. Visitors can easily take a look at the Art on the Promenade located accross from the Hyatt Regency.

Art and Craft

Trinidad Cover Artist:

Tobago Cover Artist:

Lisa Hutchinson

James (Jim) Armstrong

E-mail: hutchinson_lisa@yahoo.co.uk Mobile: (868) 716-5644 Trinidadian artist Lisa Hutchinson has a passion for organic abstract art. Lisa earned her B.A. in Visual Arts at The University of the West Indies, and now teaches art at the Bishop Anstey High School in Port of Spain. Her paintings are inspired by the natural environment but appear as surrealist distortions, and can contain media like acrylic paint, tiles or even Swarovski crystals. Lisa’s mixed media works are known for their trademark bright colours, soft hues and clean, feminine lines. Lisa has done over 60 pieces of artwork and credits the works of Georgia O’Keefe, Glen Roopchand and Carlisle Harris.

E-mail: armstro7@hotmail.com Mobile: (868) 682-6464 Tobagonian Jim Armstrong began painting at about age 12. He held his first solo exhibition in 1965. Several of his paintings are now part of the permanent collection of the Trinidad and Tobago National Museum and Art Gallery. Jim has exhibited internationally, in the Caribbean, Brazil, Canada, the USA and various countries in Africa, where he lived and worked for many years. He returned to Trinidad and Tobago in 2000 and has held five solo exhibitions within that time. His most recent exhibition – The Art of Dance – can be viewed at the 101 Gallery website.

Tomley Roberts 48 Mount Pleasant Local Road, Mount Pleasant, Tobago Mobile: (868) 702-8764 E-mail: yelmot@hotmail.com Artist Tomley Roberts sees through the eyes of his ancestors, so in his work, the transition between past and present becomes lucid with the use of light, colour and flare to create a picturesque view of history. You hear drums; feel the warmth of the people as Roberts unearths the traditions of his people against scenery of rich flora. A sense of pride as well as enthusiasm to archive the exquisiteness of his home Tobago is evident in his choice of exhibits. Roberts passionately captures the beauty of Tobago’s cultural heritage. The students of the Speyside High School feel inspired by Roberts and consider him a “work of art”.

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Art and Craft

Adrian Camps-Campins E-mail: adrian@cablenett.net Adrian Camps-Campins has spent the last twenty-five years digging into Trinidad and Tobago’s past, turning the results into a series of bold, original acrylic paintings, executed in the naïve-style. These are then made into greeting cards with accompanying photographs, maps and texts. Two of his paintings have been made into postage stamps: the first depicting the visit of Christopher Columbus in 1498, and one of the most recent, The University of Woodford Square showing Dr. Eric Williams addressing a public rally. He has exhibited at the Meridian International Center in Washington and at the Salon of Le Grand Palais in Paris. In 1993, one of his designs was selected for use as a UNICEF card—the first from a native of Trinidad.

Junya Craigwell

77 Woodford Street, Newtown, Port of Spain E-mail: degalleryltd@gmail.com Tel: (868) 628-3363/ 750-5097 Passionate and comforting, self-taught artist Junya Craigwell was born in Port of Spain, Trinidad and began his intriguing artistic journey in London whose life changed after placing paint to canvas. He is known for a variety of styles, techniques and mediums in the sphere. Much of Junya’s commissioned works are displayed regionally and internationally; he has a variety of skills that extend to Mas design, Mas building and stage design. In collaboration with Caribbean Prestige Foundation for the Performing Arts, Junya has created DE GALLERY LTD where a space has been made available for artists to display their work.

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Gaby Beston Edwards E-mail: gabybe@hotmail.com Facebook Group: Gaby Beston Edwards Art Gaby Beston Edwards was born in Venezuela in 1981, but now lives in Trinidad & Tobago. Her work is an exaltation of nature, both in colour and subject matter. The vibrant and stunning emeralds and magentas that sweep her canvases truly honour the jewel-like quality of each flower that she depicts. A fusion of realism and expressionism, there is an element of character in her work that allows us to see the world through the artist’s eyes.

Justin Sobion E-mail: jsobion@hotmail.com Through the encouragement of both his parents, Justin started painting at the age of 8. What started off as a simple childhood hobby has turned out to be a form of expression and a way of life for this Trinidad-born artist. Justin has a very intuitive, yet distinct and flamboyant style which makes his work easily identifiable to an avid art collector within the Caribbean region. He has hosted a number of joint and solo art exhibitions in Trinidad. Internationally, his art work can be found in homes and art galleries in Barbados, London, Netherlands and South Africa. Justin is also an attorney at law who specializes in the area of international law. He currently resides in Switzerland.

Art and Craft

Jason Nedd

Cynthia McLean

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Anse Fourmi, Tobago, W.I. Mobile: (868) 680-0469 E-mail: jneddminiartgallery@ yahoo.com

Tel: (868) 652-5656 Cell: (868) 473-1795 E-mail: tcmclean@tstt.net.tt

Tobago-born artist, Jason Nedd, continues to excel in his love and passion for drawing and painting. He started painting at an early age. Jason continued drawing at the Roxborough Composite School where he won an award from the Tobago Art Committee for outstanding achievements in Art. Jason has been holding exhibitions in Tobago and also Trinidad, which has led him to receive many commissions, both national and international. At present, he continues to aggressively pursue his enthusiasm for drawing and painting at Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Anse Fourmi in Tobago.

Cynthia McLean is a Trinidad-born self-taught artist. For many years, she successfully produced work of the highest caliber in the medium of copper. Currently, Cynthia is painting in vibrantly-coloured oils and acrylics. She relies on intuitive, spontaneous feelings which allow her to respond directly from her deepest senses and emotions, making her art an expressive outlet and a release from observable reality. She is very drawn to the Impressionists and inspired by the local landscapes, seascapes and people of Trinidad & Tobago.

On Location Art Galleries Ltd. Unit 205, Upper Level, The Falls at West Mall, Westmoorings Tel/Fax: (868) 633-3404 E-mail: onlocate@tstt.net.tt On Location Art Galleries Limited has recently moved to #42 De Verteuil Street, Woodbrook. This gallery is curated by Peter Kwang, who has a lot of experience and skill gained during his working sojourns in the United Kingdom and Italy. On Location exhibits the original works of local artists like Ryan Williams, Carlisle Harris, Glen Roopchand, Clyde Maderio and Rukumba Nedd. This gallery also boasts an extensive selection of local prints and cards, and provides services like picture framing and art preservation.

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touring The Savannah Port of Spain Patricia Lewis

ecotourism

in Trinidad & Tobago by Courtenay Rooks

Where can you get the perfect mix of South American adventure and nature with Caribbean vivacity? Your answer is Trinidad and Tobago; our ideal blend of lush South American landscapes, natural history and geography and a Caribbean culture that invented the steel drum and calypso makes it the perfect place for your next adventure. This unusual mix probably came about because geologists believe that Trinidad and Tobago was attached to South America during Ice Ages, thus endowing it with some of the world’s most biodiverse continental ecosystems. The diversity continued into its human history as continuous human migrations from every corner of the planet created a multiethnic, multiracial melting pot of humanity unlike any other place on earth. Since you are the new to T&T and wish to travel in a way that benefits local ecosystems and peoples, you’ll want to know the best way to experience this twin island republic without spoiling it. The best avenue to do this is through ecotourism. Ecotourism is one aspect of sustainable development; sustainable development is about developing a society that will take care of our planet, a concept that came about during the United Nations’ Rio Earth Summit. In order to keep a country sustainable, ecotourism seeks that its product must be conserved for current and all future generations to experience.

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“Down the Islands”

Essentially, ecotourism seeks to bring together tourists who wish to experience nature and culture with locals who want to have careers that benefit nature and culture. Ecotourists want to see beautiful birds, monkeys or turtles in the natural environment; mountain bike through rainforests; or hike through a savanna while learning about how all the plants and wildlife symbiotically conserve these wonderful natural areas. Locals know where to find these natural things, how to experience them safely and know lots about the wildlife and their environment. Hence, ecotourism seeks to bring these two together in a way that benefits both and the nature around them. There are several definitions of ecotourism. Here are the two most common: the Ecotourism Society defines ecotourism as “responsible travel to natural areas which conserves the environment and improves the welfare of the local people.” Green Globe defines it as “environmentally responsible travel and visitation to relatively undisturbed natural areas, in order to enjoy and appreciate nature (and any accompanying cultural features - both past and present) that promotes conservation, has low visitor impact, and provides for beneficially active socioeconomic involvement of local populations.” Key components of these definitions are responsible travel, nature, conservation, culture, and benefits to local communities. Responsible Travel: This responsibility lies with both the traveler and the vacation provider. The ecotourist has the responsibility to research their vacation properly to ensure they are using genuine ecotourism suppliers and the vacation provider must be involved in conservation, use local guides, accommodations, food etc. Nature: Ecotourism at its very core is a desire to do your favourite things in amazing natural areas with amazing people. To see a beautiful or strange bird feeding deep in a jungle, paddle past fiddler crabs waving claws at each other trying to

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Mark Stothard

impress the girls, or watch bats exiting a cave by the tens of thousands: these are the experiences ecotourists seek. Conservation: An ecotourism destination that is actively engaged in the conservation of the natural areas and wildlife is the key original concept. This also extends to conservation of culture, especially old or indigenous cultures and peoples. Benefits to local communities: A very high percentage of the tourist dollars must go back to the local communities in a manner that up lifts them. They do not wish modern developments to replace natural beauty, but to be able to educate their kids, afford decent medical care and to build homes that are safe to live in. Culture: Ecotourists are looking for real interaction with local peoples. There must be real interaction; staying with them, enjoying an evening at the local bar, helping them cook a meal, discussing local difficulties and assisting with solutions. The different key components in ecotourism must be present for it to be considered a true ecotourism destination. For example; if you do a wonderful hike into a rainforest, but contribute nothing to its conservation, you have practised nature tourism. Or visit an indigenous community using a foreign guide; you have done a community tour. All five components must be there for it to be real ecotourism. In the same way a tourist must act responsibly to be considered an ecotourist. So do your homework and contact reputable organisations like the Trinidad and Tobago Incoming Tour Operators Association, who can takes you to places in T&T where you will find more birds than the rest of the Caribbean combined, scuba with barracudas and manta rays, hike through emerald river gorges as laser blue butterflies float overhead. Wake up to a Howler Monkey chorus, spend the day wondering at massive trees and tiny ants living together, and end the night by watching a living dinosaur haul its body onto a beach to nest.

Trinidad & Tobago Incoming Tour Operators Association TTITOA was formed to introduce and monitor standards and to create synergies for the tour operating sector of the Tourism Industry and was launched on 22nd June 1990. The Criteria for membership is that you must be • A registered company (as per the laws of Trinidad and Tobago) • Public Liability Insurance – this is a critical component as it relates to International Operators • Members must subscribe to our constitution and code of ethics – these can be viewed on our website www.ttitoa. com TTITOA started with 6 members and has grown over the years to a membership of 19 private sector companies; • Destination Management Companies – every single aspect as destination (hotel, transfers, meet and greet, events, etc.) • Ground Tour Operators – Meet and Greet, Airport Xfers, sightseeing tours • Specialist Tour Operators – niche (birding, Eco, etc) • Event Management Companies • Travel Agencies Many of our members have diversified their operations and now include • Environmental Conservation • Cambio facility • Training / Education • Photography • Transport Combined our member companies boast a collective experience of over 450 years in the industry and offer a wide variety of tours and services from sightseeing, eco adventure, cultural, sporting, natural history to culinary tours and much more. The membership is full of dynamic and caring people who are intimately involved in the development of culture and community enhancement while using ecotourism as a vehicle to deal with the issues of climate change and conservation.

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Touring

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experience

CaféMoka Gallery

The Trinidad

Paria and Brasso Seco Hidden in the bosom of the northern range lies the scenic village of Brasso Seco. Rustic, quiet and unique, it offers a genuine taste of Trinidad’s early history dating back to Spanish occupation. Getting to this rural village is simple. Travel for one hour along the Arima Blanchisseuse Road which starts a short distance from Arima’s famous Dial Clock. This twisting mountain road winds lazily for six miles, as you pass through virgin forests, laced on both sides with rare tropical plants, medicinal herbs and exotic fruit trees. On reaching Brasso Seco junction, turn onto the Brasso Seco Road and descend; in twenty minutes, you’ll drive into the village of Brasso Seco. In the heart of the village, there is a visitors’ centre that provides information about sightseeing, bird-watching, indigenous foods and accommodation. The village is well known for its tasty pastelles (cornmeal pies stuffed with meat) that come wrapped in fig leaves, delicious corn soup, fresh juices produced from fruits grown in the village, and a wide variety of crafts. There are two guest houses, and a camp located in the heart of the forest, and in close proximity to Petit Tacaribe beach which is suitable for bathing.

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by Louis B. Homer

At Brasso Seco visitors can walk freely through the village, and interact with villagers who have been living there for over ninety years. The village has an estimated 230 houses scattered throughout the valleys and along the hillsides. Walking through the village is a rare experience of rural life. You’ll see farmers returning home on the backs of their donkeys. Gardeners walk freely through the narrow winding roads with their pouyas ( machete) sheathed in leather cases tied to their waists. And children still play games of yesteryear in the public road. There are also great opportunities for hiking in the mountains. The trails lead to small agricultural hillside farms or to the mountain that leads to Madamas and Paria Falls. The area has one of the highest precipitation levels in Trinidad with over 100 inches of rainfall each year. As you descend to the village there are numerous rivulets with clear crystal water flowing down the mountains. The village also holds interesting tidbits of Trinidad history. It was in this mountainous area that Trinidad’s first air pilot, Mikey Cipriani and a friend lost their lives, when the plane in which they were traveling crashed into the mountain. All that remains from that tragic incident is the plane’s compass which is kept securely at the visitors centre. Madamas and Paria Falls are four miles from the village of Brasso Seco. Visitors can get to the falls and the Paria River by walking through an established eight-mile hiking trail

Edison Boodoosingh

that passes through virgin forests and lush green vegetation that is a treat for bird-watchers. The forested area is home to the only endemic bird species in Trinidad, the Piping Guan (Pawi) and other rare bird species such as the little hermit humming bird. Alternatively, you can reach the falls and the river by a five-mile coastal trip that takes two hours from Blanchisseuseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Marianne River. On the coastal trip, visitors usually feel the cooling effects of the eastern trade winds and

are able to pick out two famous land mark rocks, the Cathedral Rock and Turtle Rock. Cathedral Rock is 50 feet high, hollow in the middle and resembles a cathedralâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tower. Turtle Rock is a stone image shaped like a leatherback turtle. Make the trip and see for yourself why the abundant waterfalls, rainforests and the picturesque coastal landscape are some of the natural offerings that make Brasso Seco an ecotourism gem.

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65 65

beache 66

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Maracas Bay

trinidad beaches Technical information used is courtesy Institute of Marine Affairs, 2004.   “A Guide to Beaches and Bays of Trinidad and Tobago”.

Trinidad’s beaches are breathtaking. Maracas Bay on the north coast is the most developed and the most accessible from Port of Spain, half an hour by taxi; Tyrico Bay is further east. Las Cuevas Bay, 7 km east of Maracas, offers parking, a snack bar and showering facilities. The bay is beautiful with clear, calm waters. Blanchisseuse has three main beaches and countless beautiful vistas of the rugged coastline. For the adventurous, hiking to Paria, Grand Tacarib and Madamas Beaches or going by ‘pirogue’ (sturdy locally-made wooden boats used for fishing) is a breathtaking experience, but please use professional tour guides. The north-east coastline is rugged; many locals own holiday homes in the area. Sans Souci, Salybia and Toco Bays are a surfer’s paradise and are blessed with waves throughout the year. The most significant changes in wave size and consistency occur during October to April. Check with locals for the safest swimming areas. On the west coast, Macqueripe in Chaguaramas has undergone major upgrades (see page 69). Williams Bay offers kayaking and further west from the various marinas, there is access to “down the islands”: the offshore islands of the north-west coast, popular for fishing, boating and with holiday homes on two main islands, Gasparee and Monos. Scotland Bay, accessible by boat only, is very popular with visiting yachts and locals alike and the cries of Howler monkeys on the mainland can often be heard. The anchorage is safe. Vessigny Bay is much further south and popular with locals. It is approximately 3 km south of La Brea and the Pitch Lake. Facing the Atlantic Ocean along the east coast, Cocos Bay, commonly referred to as Manzanilla Bay, is about 20 km long. The sea floor is characterised by shifting sand and special care should be taken when bathing along this coast, as rip currents are a common feature. Landward of the coconut plantations is the Nariva Swamp, the largest freshwater wetland in Trinidad and Tobago. Further south, Mayaro Bay (see page 68) is extremely popular due to its large expanse of beach, breezy temperatures and holiday atmosphere despite the presence of many businesses in the petroleum sector. Probably the most attractive beach on the south coast is Quinam Bay, which is accessed via Siparia and the Coora Road. This 1.6m beach boasts a recreational park nearby with a visitor centre as well as tables, benches and a car park.

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Blanchisseuse Bay

Maracas Bay

Maracas Bay is Trinidad’s most popular beach with access from Port of Spain via the scenic north coast. Facilities include car parks, changing rooms and vendors sell the popular “bake and shark” sandwiches, amongst other local fare. A fishing village and a hotel exist on the western end of the bay. Lifeguards are on duty from 10 am to 6 pm but extreme caution is recommended, especially from November to April. Rip tides and strong waves occur, so those with small children should be particularly careful. The beach is approximately 1.8 km long with fine-grained, off-white sand.

Grande Riviere Bay

Grande Riviere has become internationally known as an important nesting ground for the leatherback turtle (Dermchelys coriacea). The turtle’s nesting season lasts from March to August. There are several hotels and overnight stays are highly recommended. The beach is approximately 1.2 km long, with coarse yellowish sand and usually clear water. Swimming is safest from May to October; waves are much rougher at other times but swimmers should always exercise caution. The river, a beautiful feature of the area, enters on to the eastern side of the beach.

Stephen Broadbridge

Sans Souci Bay

Sans Souci, together with Toco and Salybia Bays, is the surfers’ paradise in Trinidad. The best surfing waves break during the months of November to April. Competitions are organised by the Surfing Association of T&T and locals welcome visiting surfers. Sans Souci is approximately 300 metres long with medium grained, dark grey sand. The water is clearer during the months of May to September with more ideal swimming conditions during this time. Located along the Paria Main Road, this bay is some 7 km from the Toco Junction along the rugged north coastline and mountainous landscape.

Martin Farinha

Stephen Broadbridge

Blanchisseuse Bay is one of the Blanchisseuse village’s three main beaches. The bay is located on the north coast, approximately 18 km east of Maracas Bay. Access is through the North Coast Road or the scenic Arima-Blanchisseuse Road. The beach is 1.4 km long with light-brown and medium-grained sand. It is characterised by plunging breakers and strong rip currents that can make swimming quite dangerous. Swimming at the shallow mouth of the Marianne River is safer while kayaking is also done up the river. Caution is recommended for both activities.

Stephen Broadbridge

Patricia Lewis

Stephen Broadbridge

Beaches

Mayaro

Many Trinidadians own holiday homes along the Cocos-Manzanilla-Mayaro stretch on the east coast of Trinidad. This beach strip is characterised by swaying coconut trees and Easter and the July-August vacation are popular times for visiting. ‘Chip chip’ (Donax striatus), a bivalve, is commonly found in the sand and chip chip cocktail is served by locals. June to August are the best times for swimming at Mayaro but surging breakers, tidal fluctuations and rip currents make swimming generally dangerous. The sand is fine-grained and light-brown in colour.

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Chagville Beach

Chagville is a man-made beach opposite the Chaguaramas Convention Centre. Its accessibility and usually calm waters make it a favourite of locals. The water quality is generally good but may be influenced by heavy rains during the wet season. Parking, full bathroom and changing room facilities are provided, as well as recreation for children. Caution is still recommended whilst swimming and children should be closely watched as the beach can become quite crowded during peak periods. On nearby Williams Bay, kayak rentals are offered all year round.

experience

Coutesy Chaguaramas Development Authority

The Trinidad

Macqueripe on My Mind Blessed with natural and unspoilt beauty, Macqueripe Bay on Trinidad’s north coast has gotten another enviable feather in its cap. It has been turned into a full-fledged recreational destination where both locals and foreigners can come and rejuvenate body and mind. “Welcome to Macqueripe Bay Facility”, says the sign in bold green letters at the entrance, and you should heed the invitation, because this facility is for anyone who wants to recharge their batteries by taking in natural beauty. Once used by the Americans as a submarine station during World War II, Macqueripe has since become a haven for families and holiday makers. Visitors stake out their space from as early as 6:00 a.m. daily, taking part in a myriad of recreational activities such as jogging, biking and swimming. For the Chaguaramas Development Authority (CDA), which has been charged with the responsibility of managing the 14,500 acres of mostly pristine Chaguaramas vegetation that fall under its portfolio, the Macqueripe Bay Facility is quite an achievement. The makeover of Macqueripe Bay was all part of a strategy by the CDA to turn Chaguaramas

into a premier tourist destination, in keeping with its tagline “making Chaguaramas the place to be.” When environmental concerns threatened upgrade works in 2008, the CDA forged ahead, determined to capitalise on the tremendous potential of this site. Extensive renovations have since transformed the area into a haven of recreation and an oasis of fun for both locals and visitors. For those visitors who crave an eco-friendly destination, the Macqueripe Bay Facility is ideal. Marked by rich biodiversity, hiking and biking trails, natural sites such as the iconic limestone Gasparee Caves and awe-inspiring Edith Falls, breathtaking vistas as well as historical sites, Chaguaramas presents the ideal opportunity for eco-adventure. Every step of the renovation project was carefully planned to ensure that it rigorously adhered to the Authority’s stated mission of environmental preservation. There are gazebos for family picnics, a children’s play park, picnic tables, and cool inviting waters ideal for swimming and snorkeling. The landscaping now offers a lush paradise that promises to become second to none. An enticement to those yearning for something new and different, Macqueripe’s enviable charm combined with its eco-friendly appeal will ensure that the bay earns its rightful place as a premier recreational destination in Trinidad. Courtesy of the Chaguaramas Development Authority

Touring 69

sights 70

St. Vincent Ferrer Catholic Church Moruga Penal Martin Farinha

sights The Magnificent Seven, located on the western side of the Queen’s Park Savannah, are seven renowned architectural masterpieces that have earned worldwide recognition. The President’s House, Botanical Gardens and Emperor Valley Zoo are on the northern end of the Savannah. The beautifully manicured gardens provide wonderful photo opportunities and a peaceful interlude for relaxing on a cool Sunday afternoon. The National Museum, located at the southeastern corner of the Savannah, opposite Memorial Square, showcases historical exhibits and an annual Carnival programme. The Story of the City of Port of Spain is a permanent exhibit focusing on the history of the capital. It is located at Fort San Andres on South Quay, opposite City Gate and is undergoing renovation. For a relaxing Friday evening with the locals, take a stroll along the Brian Lara Promenade where you can enjoy an icecold beer from the many bars that line the streets. The Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception towers over the city with its nineteenth century stained glass windows. Trinity Cathedral, at the top of Chacon Street, with its statue of Governor Woodford, is also worth a visit. A sacred labyrinth (ancient walking meditation tool) on the grounds of the Cathedral is a spiritual oasis in the midst of the bustling city. The Cathedral is one of many buildings surrounding Woodford Square, which include City Hall, Hall of Justice, Greyfriars Presbyterian Church, the Red House, seat of Trinidad and Tobago’s Parliament the, Old Fire Station and the National Library on Abercromby Street.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Sights

Stephen Broadbridge

Northern Sights Paramin Village, especially during the Christmas season, is famous for its Parang Festivals and delightful cuisine, as well as breathtaking views. The Angostura Museum, located in Laventille at the House of Angostura, features a display of corporate and national history. For information and to arrange a tour guide, call (868) 6231841/5 or visit www.angostura.com The charming village of Lopinot has a museum, a river, picnic tables, a cosy restaurant and playing field and is rumoured to be haunted by the Count de Lopinot. Mount St. Benedict Monastery sits atop a hill overlooking south and central Trinidad. It offers spectacular views, nature tours and exhibitions. Accommodation is available at Pax Guest House, renowned for its afternoon teas and simple but sumptuous dinners. Dine either indoors or, if it’s not raining, out on the balcony, which overlooks mountains and treetops under the stars. Cleaver Woods, situated on the Arima Old Road, is famous for the Amerindian Museum housing the works and crafts

of our first settlers and indigenous people. Arima is well-known for the last remaining Santa Rosa Caribs who hold annual festivities there. The Asa Wright Nature Centre was established in 1967 in order to protect and preserve part of the Arima Valley. It is globally renowned with ornithologists and birdwatchers (see page 63). For details call: (868) 667-4655. E-mail: asaright@ tstt.net.tt or visit their Web site at www.asawright.org The Eric Williams Memorial Collection is housed in the library of the University of the West Indies, St. Augustine campus. The Collection (the library and archives of the late Dr. Eric Eustace Williams, pioneering Caribbean historian and educator) was inaugurated on March 22, 1998 by Prime Minister, the Honourable Basdeo Panday and U.S. Secretary of State, Colin L. Powell. Dr. Williams was the first Prime Minister of Trinidad and Tobago and led the country to Independence from Britain and to becoming a Republic. As much a philosopher as he was a politician, the Museum is organised around the themes: Family, Scholarship, Statesmanship, Education, Industrial Development, Politics, and Private Study. It is open to the General Public on the last two Saturdays of every month from 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. School Groups are welcome on Fridays from 9:00 a.m. to noon. Reservations necessary. Contact The Main Library, Tel: (868) 662-2002 or 645-3232/4 Ext. 3506 or 3361. USA Contact: Erica Williams Connell, P.O. Box 561631, Miami, Florida 33256-1631. Tel: 305-271-7246. E-mail: ewc-suilan@juno.com. Web site: http://palmm.fcla.edu/eew

Southern and Central Sights In the south, San Fernando Hill offers a picturesque nature trail and fabulous lookout over the heart of the city. Devil’s Woodyard, where the mud volcanoes belch out thick, chocolaty mud, is a delight for the kids to witness. The Pitch Lake is a gift of nature and a national treasure, providing the entire country, and many of the neighbouring islands, with pitch for building roads. The ride along the road is like a roller coaster from the melting pitch underground, and

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

the sulphur lakes are well known for their healing properties. Open daily from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. For tours and information, it is highly recommended that you call Amena Hosein-Clarke, Trustee of the La Brea Pitch Lake Tour Guides Association, at 648-7697 or 784-3817, or the Tourism Development Company’s office, Tel: (868) 675-7034. In central Trinidad, the Hanuman Murti, located in Carapichaima, is an awesome Hindu religious site. Lion House, formerly the home of Nobel laureate Sir Vidya Naipaul, stands aloof in Chaguanas. The Wild Fowl Trust in Pointe-à-Pierre is a beautiful nature park with tours and nature trails. At the Trust, you can view the beautiful waterfowls of Trinidad and Tobago, and lakes that house a wildlife reserve, which has been in existence for over thirty years; unique to the Caribbean region. Contact Molly Gaskin at (868) 637-5144, two days in advance before visiting. Tours: 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.; on weekends 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. La Vega Estate, located in Gran Couva, from its humble beginnings as a cocoa estate, has grown and blossomed into a thriving nursery and garden centre with outlets in north and south Trinidad. La Vega has opened its gates to the public and offers fun for the entire family. La Vega is also home to a shrine dedicated to the Divine Mercy of Jesus. For further information call (868) 679-9522.

Western Sights Chaguaramas Base and the Chaguaramas Military & Aerospace Museum house interesting historical artifacts of wartime. On the compound of the Museum are four consecrated Memorials alongside military vehicles, vessels, artillery and aircraft. The indoor museum is 12,000 square feet in area, covering over 500 years of history. Located in the Bocas del Dragón or Dragon’s Mouth are the five islands referred to as “Down the islands”: Chacachacare, Huevos, Gasparillo (or Centipede Island), Monos and Gaspar Grande (or Gasparee). Many locals have holiday homes on Monos and Gasparee, within easy access by boat from Chaguaramas. Scotland Bay is also very popular with locals on weekends.

experience

Stephen Broadbridge

The Trinidad

Nature Seekers

by Keith Anderson

In Trinidad and Tobago, the name Nature Seekers is synonymous with turtle preservation; especially the conservation of the endangered leatherback turtle. The non-profit organisation is based in Matura, near Trinidad’s east coast and has a full-time staff of 16. Last year, Nature Seekers celebrated 20 years of dedication to environmental conservation. Led by the energetic Dennis Sammy, Nature Seekers’ core business is the preservation of the leatherback sea turtles (Dermchelys coriacea) from poachers. Leatherback turtles are the largest living marine reptiles. They can reach six feet in length and weigh from 350-500 kilogrammes. The only time they head for land is to lay their eggs, which could be 120 at a sitting. Trinidad and Tobago ranks behind French Guinea and Suriname as the country with the highest number of nesting leatherback turtles. In 2008, a record of 2500 female turtles nested at Orosco Bay, Matura with about 400 nesting turtles recorded per night by Nature Seekers. Nature Seekers mount night patrols to protect the leatherbacks while they nest on the Matura beach and surrounding beaches during the months of March to September. They also conduct guide services and turtle-watching tours, commissioned by the T&T Forestry Division. The organisation has even won international acclaim for its work; the international Cable News Network (CNN) recognised chairman Suzan LakhanBaptiste as a CNN Hero for 2009. What an achievement! The tours have been both educational and awe-inspiring. Sammy said that Nature Seekers tag some 10,000 turtles each year but lamented the fact that 70 per cent of the beaches in Trinidad and Tobago are not patrolled. The senseless cruelty of spectators, who do things like ride on the backs of the leatherback turtle, has aroused much concern. Of even more concern is the global climate change which could result in a large loss of nesting habitat. The turtles

only nest on beaches that exist at steady temperatures; as those temperatures rise, less beaches will remain suitable for nesting. Rising sea levels are also a problem. In an interview published in the Daily Express in 2009, the then Chairman of the Environmental Management Authority (EMA), John Agard, said: “With the shrinking beach area, because of the sea level rise, there will be a reduction in the beach nesting habitat.” Agard noted that climate change is likely to cause further increases in the temperature of the sand, and could alter the sex ratio of the leatherback turtle population. He said the possibility of the sand heating up could affect the incubation temperature. “If it is too hot, then fewer eggs will hatch,” Agard said. Aside from their preservation of the leatherback, Nature Seekers is also branching out into other areas of environmental conservation, satisfying its original mission to protect and conserve the flora and fauna of Trinidad and Tobago, while economically sustaining the community. Several projects are underway, like the glass bead project, where plastic bottles are turned in beautiful craft objects. The organisation is also into reforestation, and partners with the National Reforestation and Watershed Rehabilitation Programme to clear land for planting trees. In order to go turtle viewing with a certified tour guide, you need to obtain a permit from one of the Forestry Division’s offices located in San Fernando (call 868-6578391/7257), Sangre Grande (call 868-668-3825) or Port of Spain (868-622-7476). The division will also be able to direct you to an authorised tour guide or tour operator; these guides are trained to preserve the ecological balance of the turtle’s nesting ground and will give you lots of informative information of the turtle’s habits. Leatherbacks are sensitive to disturbances while laying, so please listen and obey all the tour guides rules while viewing the nesting process. Other turtles that nest on T&T beaches include Hawksbills, Green Turtles, Olive Ridleys and Loggerheads. Information courtesy the Turtle Village Trust

Touring 73

CaféMoka Gallery

Sights

Trinidad’s Famous ‘Pitch Lake’ By Nasser Khan The pitch lake is one of Trinidad and Tobago’s premier attractions; it draws thousands of visitors annually. It is located on Trinidad’s south-west peninsula about one and a half to two hours from the capital city of Port of Spain in the village of La Brea (originally Tierra de Brea meaning Land of Tar in Spanish). It is the largest lake of its type in the world, approximately 95 acres in size, whose name evolved over the years from the Amerindian word “piche”. The original inhabitants of Trinidad, the Amerindians, used the pitch (also called asphalt or tar) for caulking their wooden boats, to keep their vessels watertight and in good repair. It was these very inhabitants who led British explorer Walter Raleigh on his 1595 expedition to the pitch lake where he “discovered” the wonders of the asphalt in repairing his ships. One folklore tale among the original inhabitants of the area is that they believed that the lake was formed as punishment for their cooking and eating the hummingbirds which they believed

held the spirits of their ancestors. As punishment, a winged god opened the earth and swallowed the entire village into the tar. The simplest layman’s theory suggests that this natural “lake” was formed millions of years ago when asphaltic oil flowed into a mud volcano with the oil and mud combined with underground gases resulting in the big asphalt pool or lake. The tar/asphalt/pitch has been used for paving roads in Trinidad and Tobago since the early 1800’s but has been mined and the refined product exported since the 1850’s primarily for high-quality road construction in places such as the USA, England, Germany, Indian, Singapore, Egypt and Japan. Reserves are estimated at over six million tons with tens of thousands of tons extracted annually for refining for local use and export. The lake is also reputed to have healing properties for a host of ailments in its natural springs of sulphuric water and visitors are welcome to bathe in the fountains of youth. So should you

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

visit during the rainy season especially, remember to take along your bathing suit and towel for you won’t want to miss the opportunity to bathe in the sun warmed, sulphur rich waters for an experience of your life. Many fruit trees flourish in the area, including cashew, tonka bean, breadfruit and guava, while water roses, and nymph lilies thrive within its borders. Herons, feasting on the algae that grow under pockets of water, along with hummingbirds, sandpipers and kingfishers are also common. Locals inhabitants say that during the dry season, when the sun literally bakes the surface of the lake, ospreys drop their catch to cook on the lake floor. Eager guides (always use officially approved guides) wait to greet you as you get there and there is a modest museum exhibit at the visitor centre with displays of the unique topography and prehistoric history of La Brea and other interesting aspects of Trinidad’s history all tied to the pitch lake.

experience

Edison Boodoosingh

The Trinidad

Our Lady of Montserrat In so many ways, Trinidad and Tobago has become a metropolis: a bustling hive of bustling people. So it sometimes comes as a shock to visitors when they witness for themselves the silent, majestic power of one of the country’s oldest churches, Our Lady of Montserrat Roman Catholic Church in Tortuga. Located approximately ten minutes from the Solomon Hochoy Highway after turning onto the Claxton Bay flyover, this spiritual oasis stands cradled in the arms of the Central Range, and commands a panoramic vista over much of the island. From Our Lady of Montserrat, one’s eyes can travel from nearby San Fernando to Port of Spain in the North and over to the Northern Range, stretching eastward and beyond. The Church’s architectural beauty is on par with its spectacular location. Designed by a French priest named Fr. Marie Jules Dupoux of Avignon, the building retains its original wooden frame and stained-glass windows, bought and crafted in France. The Church is also home to many holy statues, but the Black Madonna holds court above them all. It was built by a Spanish saint maker, who fashioned it in the Spanish Colonial Folk Art style. No one is sure exactly when this statue was brought to Tortuga, though it is presumed that the Capuchin missionaries brought the statue with them on their visit to the parish. The statue came to be referred to by the French and Spanish settlers of Tortuga as “Notre Dame de Montserrat” or “La Divina de Monteserrado” respectively.

by Maria Lewis

The Spanish settlers named the Central Range hills upon which the Church stands, the Montserrat Hills after the Montserrat Mountains in Catalonia, Barcelona. So the Black Madonna, coupled with the hills on which the Church is built, form the name of this house of worship: Our Lady of Montserrat. Many believers travel to Our Lady of Montserrat to pay homage to and to ask for the intercession of the Blessed Virgin. This devotion primarily takes place in ‘Our Lady’s Room’ – a room located to the right of the altar, and in which stands another image of the Holy Mother. Our Lady of Montserrat RC Church is a Shrine and attracts many devotees both locally and internationally. However, plans are currently underway by the Shrine Committee to heighten the awareness of the Shrine and to encourage more people to come to the Church of Tortuga. A decade ago such organisation would have had to be placed on hold as the Church was in desperate need of restoration. The stained-glass windows, the Stations of the Cross, the pews, the flooring and the overall framework of the Church had to be revamped. A massive undertaking by the Restoration Committee, involving numerous fundraisers, made this restoration a miraculous reality. Today Our Lady of Montserrat stands again as the pride of the people of Tortuga and the wonder of the visitors who come to behold her. It truly is a place of refuge, a place of reflection. A place which will take your breath away. The Shrine of Our Lady of Montserrat RC Church is open and available for prayer and worship. Contact the Church Office at 650-0082 or 636-0769.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

sports

by Maria Nunes

sports

Interested in a game of golf during your stay in Trinidad and Tobago? Well, you won’t be disappointed. If you are in the Port of Spain area, don’t hesitate to play a round or two at St. Andrew’s Golf Club. This is the oldest golf club in the country and while it is a member’s club, walk-in visitors are welcome. Did you know? St. Andrew’s is the oldest golf club in the Caribbean and the fourth oldest in the entire Western Hemisphere. It was founded in 1891 with a 9-hole course located in the Queen’s Park Savannah. Be sure to bring along your camera. This is as picturesque a course as you’ll find anywhere in the Caribbean. The back nine is completely surrounded by hillsides of tropical rainforest, filled with the sights and sounds of beautiful flora and fauna. St. Andrew’s is a walking-only course (no golf carts are allowed), but caddy services are available. Getting to the course is also easy; it’s no more than a 20-minute drive to north Port of Spain. It’s recommended that you call the club first to book a tee time. Trinidad’s newest 18-hole golf course is located at the Millennium Lakes Golf and Country Club in Trincity, east Trinidad. It’s located less than five minutes from Piarco International Airport, so if you have a quick turnaround in the island, this is the course for you. Motorised golf carts are available and you can also rent a pull-cart. This course is well-known for the number of lush lakes which are part of the design. These wetlands are also home to quite a few species of birds; but their most interesting inhabitants are caimans, which can often be seen sunning themselves on the banks of the lakes. Don’t worry, they do not pose any danger to golfers. If you are looking for a driving range or night practice, Millennium Lakes offers the best facilities in the country.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Sports The other option for playing golf in Trinidad is to take in the 9hole range at the Chaguaramas Golf Club, which is a public course situated in the Tucker Valley, 25 minutes west of Port of Spain. Tobago is home to two 18hole courses: the Mt. Irvine Bay Hotel and Golf Club, and Tobago Plantations Golf and Country Club. These are two contrasting layouts, both of which welcome walk-in visitors and offer motorized golf carts. Mt. Irvine, located near to Buccoo, is Tobago’s longest established course with a very appealing design as the holes meander through multiple rows of coconut trees. Whether you are a weekend golfer or low handicapper, you will enjoy the layout of this course. And when you are finished your round, you can enjoy the magnificent view of the Caribbean Sea from the clubhouse. Tobago Plantations Golf and Country Club is located in Lowlands, just down the road from the Crown Point International Airport. The most notable feature of this course is that two of its holes lie along the island’s windswept Atlantic coastline. The club also has an expansive driving range where you can practice to your heart’s content. Did you know? PGA Tour player and winner of the 2004 Player’s Championship Stephen Ames was born in Trinidad. He has lived in Canada for a number of years but returns to his home country annually to visit. Ames has established the Stephen Ames Cup, an annual Ryder Cup-style tournament between junior teams from Canada and T&T. Each country alternates hosting the event. T&T are the next scheduled hosts for the 2012 tournament. St. Andrews Golf Course Maria Nunes

experience

The Trinidad

Enter the Dragons: What do English football star and celebrity David Beckham, the FIFA Under-17 Women’s World Cup and the golden era of Asian women’s football all have in common? On September 25, 2010, the correct answer was Port of Spain, Trinidad. Trinidad and Tobago hosted the FIFA Under-17 Women’s World Cup in September 2010 and it was a month to remember, not only for the twin island republic, but for an entire continent as Asian teams produced historic performances by capturing the first, second and fourth places. The skillful footballers made good use of their time on centre stage. But just in case any further stardust was required, Beckham made a cameo for the FIFA final at the Hasely Crawford Stadium as the tournament ended in fireworks. It was the first time either the Korean Republic or Japan participated in a FIFA final at any level and only the second time an Asian outfit became a World Cup champion. Interestingly enough, Asia’s last success came in the previous and first Under-17 World Cup, which was won by Korea DPR in New Zealand two years ago. The Republic of Korea, led by the dazzling golden boots of their star striker and the competition’s top scorer Yeo Min-Ji, took home the top trophy at the world cup—but only just. After sharing three goals apiece from 120 minutes of football, it took 12 penalties before Korea could disentangle themselves from the tenacious Japanese team. At the death, Korean right-back Jang Selgi got the decisive spot kick as Korea won the penalty shoot out 5-4. “The Asian teams have shown how strong and competitive they are,” said Sylvie Beliveau, a member of the FIFA Technical Study Group. “They have a strong and structured plan from the grassroots level upwards and that’s bearing fruit for them.” Not to be outdone, the tiny, southernmost Caribbean islands distinguished themselves as host. In 2001, Trinidad and Tobago held its first World Cup—the men’s edition of Under-17 competition—and produced such a stunning turnout, with 331,198 spectators and an average attendance of 10,350, that a nation of 1.3 million outdid previous and subsequent host, New Zealand and Finland respectively. In September 2010, as Trinidad and Tobago got its national budget from a new ruling party in the midst of global belttightening, it is unsurprising that the stands were not quite as full. Numbers tell only half of the story, though. The participating teams could scarcely have enjoyed a more affectionate welcome or better weather as locals warmed to the technical, attacking play of the young women. Trinidad and Tobago’s Soca Princesses claimed a bit of history themselves with a maiden World Cup win for the nation in their sixth appearance at a FIFA tournament. The local ladies defeated Chile 2-1 in their opening fixture before ceding honourably to Nigeria and the Korea DPR respectively.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

by Lasana Liburd

Anthony Harris

Asian ladies conquer Trinidad and Tobago

Germany and Japan set a feverish early pace with comprehensive triumphs in the group stage. Germany appeared to be unbeatable, but were turned away 1-0 by the Korea DPR in the quarter-final round. Only Spain stopped a clean sweep for the Asians as they edged Korea DPR 1-0 in the third-place play off. They sure enjoyed it too. As they waited for bronze medals, the Spanish senoritas staged mock bullfights on the Hasely Crawford field with their national flags serving as capes and playfully tossed their coach, goalkeeper and anyone else who wandered too close up into the air in salute. Luckily, Beckham was out of arm’s reach. His own arrival was greeted with the brilliant flashes of cameras and mobile phones and the excited screams of his female fans. But not even Beckham could upstage a tremendous final that saw both teams trade leads before the Korea Republic dramatically triumphed over Japan from the penalty spot.

Sports

2010 Sports Review

by Sheldon Waithe

In terms of global competition, 2010 represented a relatively quiet year, but still a stepping stone year towards senior World Cups, World Championships and the Olympics. Nonetheless, the sports men and women of Trinidad and Tobago shone and the twin island republic again proved itself a very capable host of sporting events. Chief amongst these was the FIFA under Women’s Under 17 World Cup, held in September at five refurbished stadiums across the country. There was a distinct Asian flavour at the end of the tournament, with South Korea just edging out Japan on penalties to receive the World Cup from icon David Beckham. T&T also hosted the prestigious RBC/RBTT Stephen Ames Cup in August, but the local golfers were unable to retain the title won in Calgary a year previously. Team Canada, won by three points. The Cup continues to build a firm legacy and keen sportsmanship between the two nations, with its shared host format (Canada one year, T&T the following year). Trinidad was also the venue for the Caribbean T20 Championship, with T&T expected to retain the title buoyed by fanatical local support. Alas, a poor semi-final riddled with fielding errors resulted in a loss to Guyana who then clinched the trophy with a thrilling one wicket win over Barbados. In the four-day format of the game it was a case of ‘as you were’ with T&T again finishing fourth as Jamaica held on to the regional title. In football, local club Joe Public lifted the First Citizens Cup knockout competition, gaining revenge on Defence Force for the 2009 Final and looked firm favourites to win the Pro League that ended in December. Their domination did not extend to the Lucozade Goal Shield competition however, since the North East Stars’ consistent scoring gained them that honour. The National Cycling Team continued its impressive upward trajectory at the regional Pan American Championships in

Mexico, warming up with a bronze in the Team Sprint before standout individuals Njisane Phillip belied his young years by winning silver in the Individual Sprint. Christopher Sellier went faster than any Caribbean rider ever has, clinching gold in almost a minute flat in the Kilometre Time Trial. On the topic of raw speed, the arduous Carib Beer Great Race between the two islands, now lengthened to 99 miles, was won by Heatwave, after a number of competitiors suffered breakdowns at the race start, including race favourite Mr. Solo. At the race’s finish line, Tobago again played host to the Carnival Regatta, traditionally a Sailing Week but now encompassing kite and wind surfing in the events to become a truly diverse showcase for the sport. In swimming, Christian Homer enjoyed a breakthrough year, securing T&T’s only medal of the inaugural Youth Olympics, with gold in the 50 metres backstroke and the promise of more to come as he matures along the trail set by George Bovell. The year’s major event for T&T was the XIX Commonwealth Games, held in Delhi. Despite the initial apprehension displayed by other nations, T&T fielded a full complement of athletes across the wide array of sports, though many would have been disappointed at 100 metres star Richard Thompson’s absence after a long season on the US circuit. However, Aaron Armstrong kept the fine tradition of T&T sprinting alive with a bronze in the 100 metres while Ayanna Alexander exceeded expectations with a silver medal performance in the women’s triple jump. Not to be outdone, the experienced Cleopatra Brown also produced a silver medal winning performance in the shot put while the men’s 100 metres relay team were controversially disqualified. Away from the athletics arena, boxer Tariq Abdul Haqq battled his way to a silver while yet another silver came the way of the long-serving Roger Daniel in the 50 metres pistol event. With a cricket World Cup, the CONCACAF Gold Cup, the Pan Am Games and the World Athletic Championships all on the horizon for 2011, in conjunction with the annual events held on both islands, T&T’s sporting fraternity are again spoilt for choice, whether competing or supporting. Good luck!

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

business Coconut Vendor around the Savannah Patricia Lewis

Coconut Entrepreneurs by Ruth Osman

When calypso crooner, Harry Belafonte sang, “Coconut woman is calling out, everyday you can hear her shout: Get your coconut water, man. It’s good for your daughter,” he was stating a fact acknowledged by all who live in the Caribbean. Coconut water, the liquid found in a fresh young coconut is hailed as a panacea and a cure for a variety of ailments, kidney stones and heartburn included. The popularity of Belafonte’s “Coconut Woman”, however, had nothing to do with the healing properties of coconut water. His lyrics painted an idyllic picture of Caribbean life: a coconut vendor surrounded by mountains of green and yellow nuts, offering tourists and other passersby a delicious liquid respite from the tropical heat. Today, more than half a century later, the coconut vendor is still a fixture in Trinidad and Tobago’s urbanscape. A walk down Independence Square, in the heart of Port of Spain, or around Queens Park Savannah, to the north of the city, is usually punctuated by the sound of their machetes as they turn the nuts, slicing off sections and then cutting off the top with one fell swoop. The thirsty customer is then presented with the liquid ambrosia, the nut acting as a container. Draining the nut of its liquid isn’t the end of the story, however. Anybody who’s ever drunk from an actual coconut knows that the best part is scraping the jelly from the inner walls of the nut with a piece of the shell. Like the nuts that they sell, there is more to the coconut vendor than meets the eye. Many begin their work-day around day-break and end it just as the sun is going down. Others come out at mid-morning and pack up their trucks two hours before midnight. Their day starts with a drive to coconut estates, small farms and sometimes even neighbouring backyards to collect fresh young coconuts.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

“We buy them from estates in Guayaguayare, Icacos, sometimes Point Fortin,” one vendor told me as he hacked a coconut open, coconut water spraying everywhere. “We buy them at $2.50 a coconut and we sell them at $5.” The average number of coconuts sold on a daily basis depends on three factors: location, the particular day, and the season. A vendor on Independence Square may sell as many as 500 coconuts on the average weekday and 600 to 800 on the weekend. A Queens Park Savannah vendor, on the other hand, would be hard-pressed to sell 300 coconuts on a weekday, although he might make that amount on the weekends. But all vendors seem to agree on one point: more coconuts are sold during the dry season than any other time of year. “People get thirsty,” one vendor said, pointing to a woman who seems to be running around the savannah at an unsustainable pace. “They get thirsty and I’m here,” he smiles impishly. Here in the Caribbean, the coconut vendor is a small part of a larger, more complex industry that involves the manufacture of soaps, margarines, shortenings, beauty products, coconut milk and cooking oils. The development of these manufacturing sectors is fast outpacing our ability to produce the necessary raw material. According to a 2006 Global Market Intelligence Report on the Coconut Industry in CARICOM, the Caribbean produced an average of over 512 thousand tonnes of coconut over the period 1999 to 2002 with Trinidad being the third largest producer after Jamaica and Guyana. Production in Trinidad has since declined due to a variety of factors, the most crippling being a Red Palm Mite infestation which, according to Phillipe Agostini, Chairman of the Coconut Growers’ Association (CGA), has resulted in a drop of 75 per cent in some areas. “Right now, we import dry coconut and bottled coconut water from Guyana,” Agostini said. “The demand is just too high. It (coconut water) is probably the most popular mixer now in Trinidad and Tobago... when you go to a fete, the coconut water is the first thing to finish. They use more coconut water than coca cola.” This increase in demand, coupled with a decline in local production has led to a hike in the price of coconuts, coconut oils and coconut water. “We’ve reached a price point now ....” Agostini noted. “A two-litre bottle of coconut water is now forty dollars in the supermarkets.” But how does the coconut bottled water industry affect the livelihood of coconut vendors? They claim that the effect, if it exists at all, is minimal. “People want their ‘ital’ [the natural thing]! They want it straight from the nut ... not bottled and all that,” one vendor told me. “We sell it cheaper than in the supermarket,” another said, pointing to a twenty-five dollar bottle. Clearly, the coconut vendor is far from being an endangered species. Island life after all, wouldn’t be the same without the ubiquitous man in a straw hat, chopping away at a coconut shell with his machete.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Patricia Lewis

Business

Meet

a Trin i

Meet T&T’s First Female Prime Minister: Kamla Persad-Bissessar by Nasser Khan

“Good Morning Madam PM…!” is how one national newspaper trumpeted the “People’s Partnership” coalition’s triumph on May 25, the day after Trinidad and Tobago’s fifth election in ten years. Riding the waves of an unconventional campaign, often characterised by singing and dancing to the rhythms of Bob Marley, Kamla Persad-Bissessar successfully assumed office as the first female and seventh Prime Minister of Trinidad and Tobago on May 26, 2010. Prime Minister Persad-Bissessar’s down-to-earth personality is confirmed by her love for Marley’s music, which was nurtured by living in Jamaica for fourteen years with husband Dr. Gregory Bissessar and their son Kris in the 1970’s and 80’s. And that personality also propelled her to make a bold move within the first few days of assuming office as she graced the catwalk at Trinidad and Tobago’s annual Fashion Week, something no other Prime Minister had ever done, and instantly won the hearts of many citizens. Born in 1952, the elegant and stylish grandmother of two has risen from humble beginnings in the rural southern villages of Penal and Siparia. Her origins have instilled in her a devotion to serve people, she said, and to improve the quality of life of the less fortunate. TIME magazine rates her as one of the top ten female leaders in the world. She rose through the political ranks from local representative to Member of Parliament, to the country’s Minister of Education and first woman Attorney General during her party’s earlier tenure in government from 1995 to 2001. She even held the post of the first female leader of the Opposition, and now she’s the country’s first female Prime Minister. She has proven early in her term at the helm to be an articulate and popular leader, capable of holding her own with other world leaders. “See good, be good, do good, and good will follow you,” is another of the PM’s mantras. She has repeatedly said that her solid family and religious background (“I am of both the Hindu and Baptist faiths,” she said) has been the cornerstone for the strong resolve that propelled her

leadership of the People’s Partnership coalition. She is a descendant of Indian indentured labourers who came to Trinidad to work the sugar plantations between 1845 and 1917, but PM PersadBissessar has built on the foundations of her ancestors. She received her tertiarylevel education in London, England, and at the University of the West Indies, Jamaica, Barbados and Trinidad, earning two undergraduate degrees in Law and Arts and up to a Master’s degree in Education. At the age of 25, she became one of the youngest university lecturers at the regional university’s Jamaica campus. In 2006 she obtained an Executive Masters in Business Administration (EMBA) from the Arthur Lok Jack Graduate School of Business, Trinidad.

In her victory speech after the general elections, she said, “I bring to my leadership not just political experience and government experience, but I also carry into the office of the Prime Minister the nurturing nature of a mother and grandmother, and I will look after you as my own.” She has pledged to stimulate the economy of Trinidad and Tobago to engender investor confidence, which she believes to be one of the most important of government functions. PM PersadBissessar’s campaign speeches have been compiled and analysed by Dr. Kris Rampersad in a book entitled Through

the Political Glass Ceiling –Race to Prime Ministership by Trinidad and Tobago’s First Female, Kamla PersadBissessar, Selected Speeches. The book was launched in May 2010.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Business

Bringing Caribbean film to Caribbean communities

Just past its fifth year, the trinidad+tobago film festival continues to promote the local and regional film industry

by Desiree Seebaran

A still from the film The Amerindians

The hype surrounding the annual trinidad+tobago film festival (ttff) started nearly four months before and reached a fever pitch by the time the festival started on September 22. With favourites like The Amerindians (directed by Tracy Assing and Sophie Meyer), which gives new perspective on the first peoples of T&T, and the Best Local Film winner, Julia & Joyce by Sonja Dumas, the five-year-old ttff always covers a range of Caribbean themes, issues and concerns through its selection of films. The festival also seeks to push growth in the Caribbean’s fledgling film industry and bring the artistic effort of talented local and regional screenwriters and directors to light. Jonathon Ali, ttff editorial director, said, “The film that was probably most successful was a film from the Bahamas called Children of God. It won the Jury prize and People’s Choice award for Best Feature Film. Julia & Joyce was also very popular, as was The Amerindians, because it’s a subject that not many people know very much about.” The themes of Caribbean films are also becoming much more introspective, concerned with relationships, identity, religion and race, but overall with the way ordinary people live and cope with life. Children of God is a gay-themed film about a young man’s search for acceptance of his homosexuality within a society where there is much prejudice. “A number of films examined the relationship between fathers and sons. A lot of the fiction films from Trinidad and Tobago also dealt with the violence and crime that’s been taking place over the past few years,” Ali said. “Even when the films deal with the supernatural, like in The Blood and the Bois where a famous stick fighter dies and his spirit cannot be at rest, it’s still about weaving the supernatural into ordinary, everyday lives.” The ttff also screened African films from the Zanzibar International Film Festival and Brazilian films by director Daniela Thomas, and not surprisingly given the history Brazil and Africa shares with the Caribbean, those films also dealt with themes relatable to the local audience.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

The 2010 festival was ambitiously designed: the organising team screened 70 films, both short films and feature length, from 24 countries. Exactly one third of those films were produced by T&T filmmakers. And instead of being centralised in a few locations, the festival spread out over several communities in Trinidad and Tobago. Screenings were held at Movietowne locations in Port of Spain, Chaguanas, San Fernando and Tobago, as well as at the University of the West Indies St. Augustine campus, the Studio Film Club, the Brazilian Embassy and in community centres in Tobago. “We were really trying to take the festival to as many communities as possible to get people who might not necessarily come to the festival to come out and see these non-Hollywood films,” Ali explained. “Our presence in Tobago increased a lot, and the Tobago House of Assembly (THA) helped mobilise Tobago communities to come out. We also held discussions with local filmmakers about getting people in Tobago interested in getting into film.” Nearly 8,000 people attended the festival, an encouraging increase from years gone by; screenings, discussion panels and workshops were all well-attended. But the festival couldn’t have been made so accessible to the public without organisations like presenting sponsor Flow and supporting sponsors like RCB/RBTT. In addition to being a firsttime supporting sponsor for the festival itself, RCB/RBTT also sponsored the brand-new You’re In Focus youth film concept competition, which invited youth under age 28 to submit short film concepts. Kwasi Shade, Jonathan Mora, Kevin Adams, and Seon Thomas were the four competition winners who received TT$3,000, and saw their film concepts made into trailers for the film festival. Other supporting sponsors included the Tourism Development Company, the Trinidad and Tobago Film Company, the National Gas Company and the THA, along with several other partners.

Meet

a Trin i

Meet a Trini Writer: Michael Anthony Sprightly and spirited are the words that best describe Michael Anthony, despite his age. The 80-year-old father of four and grandfather of six is considered by many to be Trinidad & Tobago’s number one go-to historian. His passion for research and writing is boundless, as evidenced by his impressive list of publications dating back to 1963. Anthony was born and raised in his early years in the seaside east coast village of Mayaro, one of Trinidad’s favourite beaches, and also a major setting in one of his best known novels, The Year In San Fernando. An avid swimmer, athletics fan and football fan of the Tottenham Hotspurs (he resided near their home grounds in London for some fourteen years in his early days), Anthony is just now nearing completion of Volume 2 of his series of books called History of Trinidad and Tobago in the 20th century. He speaks enthusiastically and passionately of completing the fourvolume series that chronicles T&T’s 20th century a quarter of a century at a time. Volume 1 was published in early 2010. Anthony has published approximately 30 books, many

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

by Nasser Khan

of which date back to his poem, short story and novel writing days in London, England from the 1950s until 1968. As a prolific writer and cataloguer of T&T history, he has been decorated with one of Trinidad and Tobago’s highest awards, the Humming Bird Gold Medal (1979), and has been conferred with an honorary doctorate by the University of the West Indies (2003). He has even been recognised outside of his country; he was awarded a Fellowship by the Arts Council of Great Britain in 1967. While residing in England, Anthony communicated with noted Nobel-prize winning author V. S. Naipaul, who encouraged him to pursue his short story writing. Thus Anthony produced The Games Were Coming, a cycling story and his first published novel, in 1963. It was published by London’s Andre Deutsch, and followed by a long list of other novels, including Green Days By The River, King of The Masquerade and his last, High Tide of Intrigue, published in 2001. He ranks his personal favourite novel as All that Glitters, a work of detective fiction, and his favorite non-fiction works as Towns and Villages of Trinidad and Tobago and Historical Dictionary of Trinidad and Tobago. “People are always telling me that they didn’t know so many of the things about their home towns that are in Towns and Villages and that is really gratifying,” Anthony said.

All Work and No Play “Yes sir, Mr. Wilkinson. We would be very happy to review our proposal with you next week.” In fact, we were ecstatic! Mr. Wilkinson was coming to Trinidad for five days of intense review and negotiation of a sensitive business proposal. Closing this deal with the Wilkinson Corporation would mean a lucrative expansion of overseas business opportunities for our local firm. Mr. Wilkinson was well aware of the potential benefits of doing business in Trinidad and Tobago. With a strong energybased economy and a talented and diversified work force, T&T had a lot to offer. But, Mr. Wilkinson was proving to be a hard nut to crack. It seemed that an ‘all work and no play’ approach was going to make building a relationship with him very difficult indeed. To close this deal, we needed to soften him up. And thus, the pitch: “Mr. Wilkinson, I think it would be useful for you to come to Trinidad on the weekend prior to our meetings. We have arranged an itinerary that will give you a feel for what our islands have to offer and a chance to meet some key industry players.” Besides its well-documented economic appeal, we wanted to show our guests T&T’s other valuable attributes: its culture, festivals and music; its beaches, waterfalls and rivers. We were about to show Wilkinson and his senior executives that doing business in Trinidad would indeed be a pleasure. The following Saturday, we met the Wilkinson team for breakfast at their hotel. Local seminar and conference organisers have long recognised the benefits of offering day trips and afternoon tours to attendees. We decided to use the same strategy for our guests and potential business partners. They were typically reserved and listened to the day’s plan with cold apprehension. It was time to warm things up. First on the schedule was a trip to Maracas Beach on

by Darren Farfan

Trinidad’s spectacular north coast. The 45-minute drive to Maracas worked like magic. The visitors’ reserved attitude was replaced by genuine awe and wonder for the stunning views along Trinidad’s most dramatic coastline. After a cooling dip and a quick lesson in bodysurfing, we had our first official lunch meeting while enjoying a shark and bake and some ice cold Carib beer. The ice had been broken. The next day, our guests were treated to another of Trinidad’s overlooked treasures: a trip to the smaller, nearly uninhabited islands off Trinidad’s north-west coast, popularly known by locals as the ‘down the islands’ trip. We all learned a lot about each other’s goals and objectives while cruising through the western archipelago. While hauling in two king fishes and an oversized tarpon, we discovered a shared vision for our business future. As the day drew to a close, we all sensed the bright promise of the coming week. Every day that week, after gruelling and sometimes contentious negotiations, we would break the confines of the office in search of some fresh air and much needed recreation. This was not frivolous time wasting, but purposeful endeavours intended to build solid relationships that extended beyond the boardroom. Even billionaire business mogul Donald Trump admits that some of his best deals were done on the golf course. And it turned out that Wilkinson was an avid golfer and was only too happy to sample the courses at Trincity and Chaguaramas. Here, the foreigners met and were feted by some of the leading businesspeople and power brokers in town. Rounds of golf often turned into rounds of drinks at the nineteenth hole where a mix of light banter and deep philosophical discussions carried on late into the evening hours. As for our negotiations, with some creative thinking and a deep understanding of each other’s motives and motivation, we found an ideal win-win solution where everybody was happy. On our last day of meetings, Wilky walked into the boardroom with a broad smile on his face. “Good morning, gentlemen! I’d like to wrap this up quickly. My flight to Tobago leaves at noon!”

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Believing in the Community; Believing in Ourselves Every day, there are committed individuals and organisations on the front lines of society waging war to gain equity and social development. With almost 175 years experience in growing and working with communities, Republic Bank uses this rich history as the resolve behind its on-going social investment programme, the Power to Make a Difference. Guided by the pillars of the Power to Care, the Power to Help, the Power to Learn and the Power to Succeed, Republic Bank transformed a deep-seated belief to assist the community, into a social investment action plan and the blueprint for long-lasting relationships with the NGO (Non-Government Organisation) and CBO (Community-Based Organisation) sectors. The Power to Make A Difference Programme is about believing. Republic Bank believes in the philosophy of individuals and corporations who use their resources to make a positive difference in the lives of those around them, underscoring the communityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vital role in the foundation of a country. With the launch of the first phase in 2003 and the second phase in 2009, Republic Bank set the tides of change in motion with a TT$152 Million (US$26.6 million), to be disbursed in annual tranches over 10 years, toward youth development; poverty alleviation; empowerment of the socially marginalized and care for the elderly. Through extensive collaboration with the Society of St. Vincent De Paul; Salvation Army; Les Amantes de Jesus; Loveuntil Foundation; SWAHA Home; the Catholic Commission for Social Justice; the Lady Hochoy Home; Marion House for Displaced Boys; the Gasparillo Home for Children; Butler Institute and the Cotton Tree Foundation, to name a few, Republic Bank has created a legacy of success through teamwork and across boundaries. The programme has been widely hailed by many, both in the private and public sectors, as a success in championing social development. In the second five-year phase, Republic Bank also made new connections with the community as it strengthened existing relationships. The Bank used the new era and the experiences gained through the years to take full ownership of its role as a proactive corporate advocate. Of special note, Republic made a groundbreaking commitment to the differently able with a TT$20 million (US$3.5 Million) pledge to help. The new era marked the beginning of collaborations with the Life Centre, the Autistic Society of Trinidad and Tobago and the National Centre for Persons with Disabilities in Trinidad and Tobago. Equally critical to this second phase has been fully incorporating several existing Bank-owned empowerment projects as part of the Power to Make a Difference. The RightStart Cup Youth Football Tournament and Camps; the RightStart Junior Golf Open and Clinics; the RightStart Pan Minors Music Literacy Scholarship Programme; and the Republic Bank Laventille Basketball and Netball Leagues, which have long been staples of Republicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s social outreach, found a fertile and welcome home under the Power to Make A Difference. Commemorating a number of multi-year anniversaries in 2010,

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Winner on the Under 17 boys category, RightStart Cup Youth Football Tournament 2010, Arima Young Masters with their coaches and President of the Trinidad & Tobago Football Federation, Mr. Oliver Camps (center) and Manager, Market Intelligence & Segments, Republic Bank, Shazard Mohammed (back right) smile after receiving their prizes.

Republic Awards Junior Golfers: Thirty-six young golfers pose with their medals and trophies, at the July 4 closing ceremony of the Republic Bank RightStart Chaguaramas Junior Golf Clinic. The eight-week Clinic, the second for the year, ended with its usual one-day tournament, in which the golfers displayed their skills. Standing with the golfers are, Republic Bank Park Street Branch Sales Manager, Najette Abaraham (back row, fourth from right), Republic Bank Project Officer, Donna PrimaSee Wai (back row, second from right) and Chaguaramas Golf Club Youth Programme Coordinator, Everard Matabadal (back row, far right). Ninety children took part in the Clinic and all received certificates of participation. The Bank has sponsored these Clinics since 2002 as part of its commitment to youth empowerment through sport, via its Power to Make a Difference Programme. these projects became much of the focus during the second year of phase II, with especial celebratory themes particularly for the Football Tournament and the Pan Minors Music Literacy Scholarship Programme, which both marked 15 years of success and the Football Camps, which celebrated a decade of youth empowerment. Proud of the Power to Make a Difference, Republic Bank continues to invest in the community, collaborate with the NGO and CBO sectors; and most of all, continues to believe and act in the cause for sustainable social development. At the forefront of Corporate Social Responsibility in Trinidad and Tobago, Republic Bank is vigilant for innovative avenues through which it can devotedly perform its dual roles as a believer in and proponent of social development in Trinidad and Tobago.

Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau At just over a year old, the Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau may be considered an infant in the world of meetings and conventions. But with a formidable list of accomplishments to its credit, this youngster is proving to be a serious contender in this business. Established in August 2009 with a mandate to position Port of Spain as the meetings and conference capital of the southern Caribbean, in its first eight months of operation the Bureau generated more than 200 sales leads and provided support to more than 20 conferences, including the Rotary International District Conference and the World Association of Vedic Studies. The Bureau, a unit within the Tourism Development Company, also successfully bid against competing destinations in the region to host the prestigious International Conference on Caribbean Literature (ICCL) in Trinidad and Tobago from November 3 to 6, 2010. “I must say that we are very pleased and privileged to be a part of the International Conference on Caribbean Literature (ICCL). In successfully bidding and winning the privilege to host this conference in Trinidad and Tobago, we looked at the founding principles of this event, and felt it a great fit as it neatly supported our goals of developing the meetings and conferences niche, while supporting the expansion and increased recognition of our cultural and creative industries, and by extension, the people of Trinidad and Tobago,” said Chantel Ross Francois, Head of the Bureau. As the national entity created specifically to promote the destination to regional and international planners of events, meetings and conferences, the Bureau has capitalised on Trinidad and Tobago’s track record for successfully hosting prestigious major conferences, such as Fifth Summit of the Americas and the Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting, to attract new and bigger business. From making presentations to local business chambers, to acting as an intermediary between hotels, meetings coordinators and incoming groups, the Bureau is working to foster continued growth in this market through networking, attendance at trade shows and utilising every opportunity to showcase Trinidad and Tobago. The organisation aggressively follows up on leads, engages tactical marketing strategies and proactively pursues opportunities in major target markets, including the United States and Latin America, to make sure that Trinidad and Tobago gains both visibility and credibility. And by offering comprehensive information on the island’s venues,

hotels, pricing, sites and attractions, the Bureau acts as a liaison between groups and overseas meeting planners, and local hoteliers, tour guides, consultants and tour operators to ensure that a comfortable and enjoyable working environment is enjoyed by all participants. One of Trinidad and Tobago’s greatest assets as a meeting destination is its people, and the Bureau continues to work closely with tourism stakeholders, the business community and various interest groups to ensure that there is a greater awareness of opportunities within the global business travel market which is estimated to earn close to US$900 billion by the end of 2010. Port of Spain will play a key role in the strategy to increase Trinidad and Tobago’s share of the lucrative global business travel market. The city has seen robust growth of first-class room stock in the city over the last few years, with the luxurious Carlton Savannah and Hyatt Regency Trinidad hotels as the newest addition to the city’s 700 new and top class hotel rooms. Port of Spain also boasts the newest and largest conference facilities in the English speaking Caribbean. To ensure that these rooms and facilities are filled year round, the Bureau has embarked on a major marketing campaign in major overseas and regional markets and plans are afoot to increase the number of delegates attending conferences in Trinidad and Tobago and their length of stay through the development of pre and post conference tours. Trinidad and Tobago also offers visitors a diversified tourism product, biodiversity unrivalled in the Caribbean and two very distinct experiences in one destination, thus offering a unique combination to meeting planners - from the largest wetland in the Eastern Caribbean to the oldest protected rain forest in the hemisphere. The islands’ sumptuous, mouth-watering culinary fare, a legacy of Trinidad and Tobago’s cultural and ethnic diversity, also provides a major opportunity for attracting business visitors. Moreover, the creativity and energy of our internationally recognized and world class event designers and planners, coupled with a burgeoning events industry supplier segment, the destination possesses a strong competitive advantage. To learn more about planning a meeting, convention or exhibition in one of the Caribbean’s most exciting destinations call the Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau at (868) 675 7034, send an email to conventionbureau@tdc.co.tt or visit our website www.gotriniddandtobago.com/trinidad/meetings

Rooms of Flowers by Sharon Millar Local growers have fuelled the move towards more sophisticated arrangements by keeping up a supply of attractive flowers and foliage. Tony Tang Kai of the Horticultural Society of Trinidad and Tobago (HSTT) acknowledges the demand for anything new and interesting and says that many of the growers travel to botanical hubs such Miami or even as far away as Thailand to source new stock. Trinidad and Tobago’s long standing presence at international flower shows such as the RHS Chelsea Flower Show in London has also gone a long way in keeping growers and arrangers au courant with international trends. Foliage is a critical aspect of any arrangement. “It’s very important,” said Tang Kai, “you need the foliage to balance the blooms and to hide the mechanics of the arrangement.” Some of the most popular movers in the foliage line include the characteristically green and glossy sweet lime, all types of fern, different coloured cordylines and dracaenas, papyrus, calatheas, aurelias, and yellow iris. To accommodate major national events such as the CHOGM and the Fifth Summit of the Americas in 2009, growers were placed on alert months in advance to give them the opportunity to supply the demand. Popular among the foliage designers are the members of the Heliconiaceae family such as Heliconia chartacea ‘Sexy Pink’, Heliconia collinsiana ‘Sexy Orange’, and Heliconia rostrata; as well as all the coloured Musa bananas (of the Musacea family). Always popular because of the longevity of the cut flowers are the shampoo, torch, and alpinia gingers that belong to the Zingiberaceae family. Vibrant show stoppers carry the names to match. The names of many of the gingers and heliconias read like overblown hothouse novels– ‘Jungle King’, ‘Cinnamon Twist’, ‘Sassy’, and ‘Lalunni’ to name a few. Despite the increasing popularity of newer exotics, many people still remain loyal to the traditional ixoras and hibiscus bouquets of years gone by. Many smaller, more rural guest houses still maintain the tradition of small, hand assembled bouquets for each room. And in this way, they are branding themselves as eloquently as the larger establishments. The current symbiosis of accommodation and horticulture has evolved organically, the result of a healthy industry of growers and a burgeoning crop of new hotels and restaurant chains. With a renewed focus on increasing Trinidad and Tobago’s room stock, horticulturalists can look forward to keeping these rooms full of flowers for years to come.

Patricia Lewis

In Trinidad and Tobago, hotels, guest houses, and restaurants are increasing their use of flowers and signature arrangements as a unique way of displaying their corporate image. And local exotic growers have risen to the demand by supplying sophisticated designs and products on a regular basis. Dave Ramlal of Functional Designs is the man behind sleek flower designs found at two of T&T’s newest hotels. His mandate is to present pieces that complement the decor and reflect the personality of the hotel. Ramlal’s style is minimalistic and modern. To create this look, he relies on both home-grown exotics such as the gingers, heliconias, anthuriums, and orchids, often combining the look of the tropics with a subtle addition of a temperate import to soften the ‘vavavoom’ effects of the showy tropicals. Ramlal uses less flowers and foliage than traditional flower arrangers but goes instead for strong, eye-catching statement pieces. The response by visiting businessmen and tourists alike has been positive, sparking a small but growing niche market. “We have begun supplying business people who visit Trinidad and Tobago frequently. They use the arrangements in social interactions, sending arrangements to local counterparts or using them as hostess gifts when they are invited to homes.” Zalayhar Sant of Romance Garden in Long Circular Mall, Maraval, is kept busy with a mixed bag of requests many of which come from large corporate citizens such as banks and other financial institutions. Traditionally, these clients prefer the larger, denser, arrangements designed to fill a whole room. With these arrangements, Sant often mixes local flowers with imported stock to provide interest. “I love sunflowers,” she said. Sunflowers are spectacular and orange ones pair beautifully with locally grown orange and red heliconias. Bernard Beckles of La Tropicale Flower Shop has been in the industry for close to twenty five years. A stalwart on the flower arranging circuit, Beckles has seen a definite change in the style of arrangements over the years. “People are moving away from clutter, they like a more streamlined look now,” said Beckles. During our interview, Beckles is preparing for no less than six weddings for the upcoming weekend. “Beach weddings are very popular,” he said. “Many young people are moving to outdoor locations to exchange vows and the flowers of choice are the tropicals.” This dovetails with the Tobago’s growing popularity as a wedding destination and the event planners work closely with the florists to ensure a perfect day for the bridal party.

health & beaut

health & beauty by Ruth Osman

In Trinidad and Tobago, as in many other countries, concerns about the world-wide increase in lifestyle diseases like diabetes, heart disease and obesity have led to a growing awareness of the importance of exercise, proper eating habits, and a holistic approach to physical wellbeing. Exercise, touted as a veritable fountain of youth, is now used by many Trinbagonians to maintain or regain a trim physique. On any given day, particularly in the early morning or just before dusk, Queen’s Park Savannah, a large expanse of green in northern Port of Spain, is bustling with runners, joggers and walkers. And since Trinidad has just two seasons – wet and dry – outdoor activities continue throughout the year. Running, hiking, rugby, football, cricket, and even outdoor aerobics – anyone who wishes to go outside and build up a sweat has a variety of options to choose from. The highlight of Trinidad and Tobago’s calendar, Carnival, provides major incentive for persons to keep fit. Dancing in the streets for two days, from dawn to dusk, requires a certain amount of stamina. And there is the matter of the beautiful but skimpy carnival costumes. In the months leading up to the ‘greatest show

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Health and Beauty show on earthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, would-be revellers develop a rigorous exercise routine, joining one of the many local gyms or jogging around their neighbourhood savannah. Participation in strenuous exercise or athletic activity sometimes results in injury. Trinidad has its share of institutions that cater to injuries incurred by rigorous activity or the stress of daily living. The experts at Renew Serpentine Clinic treat a variety of problems ranging from persistent aches like chronic back and neck pain to knee and hip fractures. The Fracture and Orthopaedic Clinic, based in Port of Spain, treats injuries and other conditions related to bones and their associated muscles and ligaments. The trend towards a healthier lifestyle has led to the increased popularity of Eastern practices like yoga and meditation. Concepts such as stretching, proper alignment of the parts of the body and strengthening of the core are now an established part of the exercise lexicon. Institutions such as the Migun Centre cater to this developing niche market by providing healthcare products that combine eastern medicine with western technology. Wellness, of course, is also about relaxation and rejuvenation. Trinidadian women are known worldwide for their beauty, a direct result of the mix of ethnicities that reside here; and Trini men are not far behind! And they have no qualms about treating themselves to luxuries like a full-body massage or a manicure and pedicure. But there has been an increase in demand for

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

slimming and toning treatments like seaweed wraps and mud baths, as well as anti-ageing facials, scrubs and peels. Valsayn Luxury Spa, one of the many spa facilities in Trinidad and Tobago, provides a variety of spa services including facials, and anti-aging techniques. It is universally accepted that nutrition is one of the most important aspects of a healthy lifestyle. After all, what we eat, besides being assimilated into our bodies, feeds the chemical and metabolic processes that enable us to live. A new awareness of this has led to recent local trends in healthy eating. Trinidad and Tobago has a time-honoured custom of Saturday and Sunday market-going for buying healthy fruits and vegetables at affordable prices. But these days, supermarkets are making a similar range of fresh local and imported veggies available to their clientele, to capitalise on the drive to eat healthier. Many Trinidadians are becoming vegetarian, not for religious reasons but because of the perceived health benefits of eschewing meat. The establishment of health food stores and juice bars with organic products and ingredients, along with an increased demand for nutritionists and dieticians, all point to a growing awareness of the need for proper nutrition. The balance between exercise, nutrition and the demands of a 21st century lifestyle can be hard to maintain. Trinbagonians, however, are increasingly utilising the many tools available to them to ensure that they and future generations can live healthy, full lives.

Health and Beauty

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

accommodation 98

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

accommodation by The Trinidad Hotels, Restaurants and Tourism Association (THRTA)

Trinidad offers a mixture of business and leisure activities for its visitors. And the types of accommodation available on the island cater to both types of guests. Many hotels have business conference facilities and they can cater for events as small as 50 persons to much larger conventions of over 1,000 persons. Most of the country’s business hotels are located in the capital, Port of Spain, but several others are centered around San Fernando and in the area near the Piarco International Airport. Hotels and guest houses that cater for leisure visitors are usually outside the main urban areas but close enough for easy access to night time entertainment areas or close to ecotourism sites. In 2009, both the Fifth Summit of the Americas and the Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting (CHOGM) were hosted at the well-equipped Hyatt Regency Hotel in Port of Spain. Combined, both conferences had 7,000 attendees and their joint success proves that Port of Spain is well on the way to becoming the meetings and conventions capital of the Southern Caribbean. Trinidad has many attractions that encourage 40 per cent of our convention visitors to return for a leisure visit with their friends and family. Another successful market with a proven track record in Trinidad and in Tobago is Sports Tourism. Both islands have stadiums and sports facilities that cater for football (soccer), cricket, netball, indoor and outdoor hockey, track and field, golf, horse racing, swimming and many other sports. In September 2010, Trinidad and Tobago hosted the world finals of the FIFA Under 17 Women’s Soccer and this tournament drew 18 teams with matches on both islands. Whatever the original reason for visiting Trinidad, there are many new experiences for guests to explore and take back home with them. Services for the business traveler, like wireless high speed internet, are available and the activities for visitors who want to relax are unlimited. To help you make your decision on where to stay in Trinidad, please visit the Tourism Development Company’s website at GoTrinidadand Tobago.com and the Trinidad Hotels, Restaurant and Tourism Association’s website at TnTHotels.com.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Accommodation Courtyard by Marriott Invader’s Bay, Audrey Jeffers Highway, Port of Spain Tel: (868) 627-5555 Fax: (868) 627-6317 www.marriott.com Discover an urban oasis at the Courtyard by Marriott, Port of Spain. This charming hotel boasts 119 stylish guest rooms and is located near the heart of the bustling city centre, and within walking distance to shopping, restaurants and entertainment. It is also located next to the MovieTowne Shopping Centre and the Hasley Crawford National Stadium. Sophisticated and stylish hotel rooms offer complimentary high-speed Internet access, plush, comfortable beds and large work desks. Host a memorable meeting or event in any of the versatile conference rooms. This contemporary hotel creates the perfect setting whether visiting Port of Spain for business or pleasure.

Tradewinds Hotel #38 London Street, St. Joseph Village, San Fernando Tel: (868) 652–9463 E-mail :delia@tradewindshotel.net           www.tradewindshotel.net Situated in the breezy residential area of San Fernando, the Tradewinds Hotel is a 43-room ‘home away from home’. Rooms are beautifully furnished and fully equipped with mini bar, cable TV, Internet, direct international dialing and safes. Complimentary breakfast is also included. Authentic local and international cuisines feature at the rustic Driftwood Restaurant, where either fine dining or casual dining is available. The Driftwood Pub features karaoke nights and casino slot machines. The Tradewinds Hotel also has a fully equipped gym with state of the art equipment and personal training.

Hilton Trinidad & Conference Centre 1B Lady Young Road, Port of Spain Trinidad Tel: (868) 624-3211/3211 Fax: (868) 624-4485 E-mail:poshi_sales@hilton.com www.hiltoncaribbean.com/trinidad www.facebook.com/hiltontrinidad www.twitter.com/hiltontrinidad

The Hilton Trinidad & Conference Centre brings you a refreshing new experience with 418 newly renovated rooms to choose from and a spacious new Executive Club lounge. Each guest room gives guests breathtaking views of the city from private balconies. We invite you to recharge in the new state-of-the-art fitness centre, outfitted with the world-renowned Precor equipment, saunas and treatment rooms for the personalised attention you deserve. Hilton is once again alive with festivities and entertainment for both locals and travelers. Welcome back to the Hilton!

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Accommodation Le Grande Almandier 2 Hosang Street, Grande Riviere, Trinidad Tel/Fax: (868) 670-1013/2294 E-mail: info@legrandealmandier.com www.legrandealmandier.com Located eighty-eight km from Piarco International Airport, Le Grande lies nestled between the almond trees and the beach. Here the forested headlands border the magnificent coastline to the north and the majestic Grande Riviere River, from which the village gets its name, to the northeast. The perfect retreat to enjoy all that Mother Nature has to offer: the birds, the wildlife, the nesting leatherback turtles, fishing, boat tours and waterfall tours. The ten tastefully decorated rooms and suites sleep two to six persons. The ideal choice for anyone in search of peace and serenity in completely natural surroundings.

L’Orchidée Boutique Hotel 3 Coblentz Gardens, St. Ann’s Tel/Fax: (868) 621-0613 / 0063 E-mail: reservations@trinidadhosthomes.com www.trinidadhosthomes.com L’Orchidée Boutique Hotel is located in the beautiful landscaped neighbourhood of St. Ann’s, Port-of-Spain and 35 minutes from Piarco International Airport. Conveniently situated 5 minutes drive from the City center, Port of Spain, and minutes walking distance of the Queen’s Park Savannah. At L’Orchidée our twelve beautifully appointed Rooms are themed after orchids, and our cozy finedining room and open-air patio serve a fusion of sumptuous local and international cuisine. Wireless and High Speed internet access are available throughout the property making it ideal for the business traveler. Enter L’Orchidée and experience being lavished with care and attention like our orchids. L’Orchidée—The Boutique Experience!

Royal Palm Suite Hotel 7 Saddle Road, Maraval, Trinidad, W.I. Tel: (868) 625-5086/9 Fax: (868) 625-6042 E-mail: admin@royalpalm.co.tt www.royalpalm.co.tt Nestled in the Maraval Hills, just minutes from downtown Port of Spain, the Royal Palm Suite Hotel, offers seventy spacious rooms. All suites contain fully equipped kitchenettes, air-conditioning, satellite TV, private bath, free wireless high speed Internet access, direct dialing telephone, voice mail service, laundromat, business centre, baby-sitting, pool and Jacuzzi. Close to the President’s House, the Zoo, the Botanical Gardens and the Queen’s Park Savannah. Easy access to public transportation tennis, golf, gym and horseback riding facilities are available nearby. Conference and banquet rooms can accommodate up to 400 persons. Restaurants, boutiques, bookshop, beauty salon and doctors’ offices are also located in the plaza.

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Accommodation Hacienda Jacana Trinidad Tel: (868) 498-7597 E-mail: haciendajacana@gmail.com www.haciendajacana.com Each of the four rustic cottages at Hacienda Jacana has 2 airconditioned bedrooms, a living room, kitchen, dining area and a porch – all fully furnished with quality-crafted furniture and Direct TV. A comfortable pool-house sits next to the lounging pool. Two canoes are available for use. Nestled within 22 acres at the edge of the tropical rainforest, the area is peaceful, private and totally secure. Guests have been effusive in their praise: “Even more lovely than I could have imagined.” “Food was scrumptious and plentiful.” “I swung in my hammock listening to the birds.” “Every possible thing was there for us to prepare our breakfast. And lunch and dinner were delivered to the cottages.”

Monique’s 114-116 Saddle Road, Maraval, Trinidad Tel: (868) 628-3334 / 5511 Fax: (868) 622-3232 Email: info@moniquestrinidad.com Website: http://www.moniquestrinidad.com Come Experience the Caribbean Charm The Monique’s experience comes with 33 years of superb customer service at affordable rates. Our guesthouse boasts 20 cozy rooms with picturesque views. Monique’s ‘on the Hill’ is equipped with kitchenettes outfitted with mini refrigerators, microwaves, electric kettles and cable television. Added modern conveniences include wireless Internet, computer and fax services and a daily room attendant service. One room is designed for the physically challenged. Monique’s is just minutes away from the Capital Port of Spain, malls, banks, lively night life, St. Andrew’s Golf Course and the ever popular Maracas Beach. Enquire about Blue Bird Tours - guided tours to Trinidad’s notable attractions and airport transfers.

Mt. Plaisir Estate Hotel Grande Riviere, Trinidad Tel: (868) 670 1868 Fax: (868) 670 1015 Email: maktoub@mac.com www.mtplaisir.com Mt. Plaisir Estate is the only true beach hotel in Trinidad. Located at Grande Riviere Bay, along the Caribbean northeast coast, it hosts thousands of nests of one of the world’s largest colonies of the endangered leatherback turtle, every year between March and August. Mt. Plaisir is also an excellent base for forest hiking into the majestic rain forest of the Northern Range, or for boat trips to small coves or remote beaches. There is an excellent restaurant at the resort, Ylang Ylang (see restaurant section) that offers Caribbean and Italian dishes. The prestigious 2002 “Rough Guide” says of Mt. Plaisir Estate, “Grande Riviere may be small but it has the best hotel in Trinidad. Mt. Plaisir Estate is by far the loveliest place to stay.”

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Accommodation Coblentz Inn Boutique Hotel & Coblentz Cottage Conference Centre 44 Coblentz Avenue, Cascade, Port of Spain Tel: (868) 621 – 0541/4 Fax: (868) 624 – 7566 E-mail: coblentzinn@tstt.net.tt www.coblentzinn.com A unique boutique hotel that envelopes you in comfort and seduces the senses. The cozy rooms have been inspired by our island’s exclusive mélange of fascinating cultures. Coblentz Inn caters, not just to meeting the needs of our guests, but also to introducing you to new ideas of elegance, relaxation and warmth. Coblentz Cottage, our new Conference and Banquet Centre, is a multi purpose facility designed to suit guests individual needs.

Sunset Beach Resort Sunset Drive, Mayaro, Trinidad W.I. Tel: (868) 630-5888 Fax: (868) 630-3663 Email: sunsetmayaro@gmail.com Website: http://sunsetbeachmayaro.com/ Nestled in St Margaret’s village, Sunset Beach Resort is the perfect place for relaxing with friends and family. There are 34 fully furnished two-bedroom apartments on the compound, all secure and private, which can accommodate either families of four or six. Guests can enjoy two adult swimming pools, a Jacuzzi and a kid’s pool. There are also gazebos for guests to barbeque, play cards, or lay back in the beachfront two-story carat house. A large playing field is also available for activities. We offer special packages available for religious groups, company sports club, family reunions, weddings etc.

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Accommodation Royal Hotel 46â&#x20AC;&#x201C;54 Royal Road, San Fernando, Trinidad Reservations: (868) 652-4881 E-mail: info@royalhoteltt.com www.royalhoteltt.com Royal Hotel is located in the city of San Fernando. Surrounded by an awesome canopy of Samaan trees, and lush foliage, we welcome you to the warmth of our Southern hospitality. All rooms and suites are air-conditioned and outfitted with modern facilities for your every comfort. Enjoy a meal at our restaurant, which specialises in a variety of tasty Caribbean and International cuisine, or just sit back and relax at our bar and lounge or around our swimming pool. Our hotel also includes conference facilities as well as an ideal setting for wedding receptions, cocktail parties and other special functions. Ideally suited to the business traveler, we offer special group and long- term rates.

Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites 1 Exposition Drive, Trincity Phone: (868) 669-6209 Fax: (868) 692-4557 E-mail: holidayinnexpress2@tstt.net.tt www.hiexpress.com/trincitytt This attractive hotel is conveniently located three minutes from the airport and thirty minutes from Port of Spain. Situated within a growing urban development, close to the Millennium Lakes Golf and Country Club, Trincity Mall and Multiplex Cinema, this property features eighty-two beautifully appointed guest rooms and suites. We offer complimentary Continental Breakfast along with contemporary amenities and facilities including: Outdoor Swimming Pool, On-site Laundry Facility, Fitness and Business Center and Free High-Speed Internet Access! For business or leisure, the Holiday Inn Express and Suites, Trincity, is only minutes from businesses and attractions including Restaurants, Nature Reserves and Industrial Parks. STAY SMARTÂŽ and MEET SMART.

Acajou Hotel Grande Riviere, Trinidad Tel: (868) 670-3771 Fax: (868) 670-4566 E-mail: info@acajoutrinidad.com www.acajoutrinidad.com ACAJOU is a small, eco-friendly, family-operated hotel situated on the beautiful and dramatic northern coast of Trinidad in a small fishing village called Grande Riviere. The hotel is built as a group of traditional cottages nestled between the beach, a crystal clear river and lush rainforest-covered mountains. What makes Grande Riviere unique, are the hundreds of endangered leatherback turtles that nest here every year, from March until August. Please visit www.tripadvisor.com for unbiased reviews about ACAJOU Hotel.

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special events

by LISA GHANY

Event management is one of the fastest growing new professions in Trinidad and Tobago. It is actually being referred to as the ‘sexy profession’ and a lot of people are now joining this exciting and vibrant industry. Event management seems a perfect match for Trinidad and Tobago since metropolitan Trinidad is positioned to be the meeting and conference capital of the Caribbean, and the beautiful Tobago, with its sun, sea and sand, is a choice Caribbean wedding destination. Events form an intrinsic part of ‘brand T&T’. Our annual calendar of events runs the gamut from religious celebrations like Divali and Eid to our vibrant Carnival that is world renowned, to sporting events that include sailing and fishing competitions and food festivals that highlight our delicious cuisine. In order for us to showcase these aspects of our local culture, it is imperative that we continue to also develop our professional event management skills in order to ensure the sustainability and viability of the industry. The commitment to developing this industry has been supported over the last ten years by the growth of a number of academic programmes at the tertiary level. Several programmes are now offered by the University of the West Indies, the Arthur Lok Jack Graduate School of Business, the Trinidad and Tobago Hospitality Institute and other accredited business schools in Trinidad and Tobago where the demand

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Special Events exceeds the number of places available. This commitment to academic studies is noteworthy and augurs well to the knowledge base of the practitioners that are now on the market. In addition, a chapter of the International Special Event Society (ISES) is also in formation, another critical development step that will ensure a code of conduct, ethical standards, networking opportunities and the sharing of best practices among industry professionals locally. In keeping with this momentum, in 2009 Unlimited Functions and Xceptional Events Limited hosted the first event management conference and trade show in the Caribbean. Eventology was held at the Hyatt Regency Hotel, Trinidad, attracted over 150 participants and provided a forum for continuing education and exposure to global standards in the event management industry. The cast of speakers included internationally acclaimed event manager Preston Bailey, Colin Abraham and local award-winning mas maker and event designer Brian Mac Farlane, along with other local and foreign participants. Eventology was held again in 2010, amidst the effects of the economic downturn and changes in the Government of Trinidad and Tobago. Eventology provided a platform for entrepreneurs and small business operators to examine options for growth and development in an alternative sector of the tourism and hospitality industry. This was supported by both the Conventions Visitors Bureau of the Tourism Development Company and the Ministry of Trade and Development, who were the major sponsors. Eventology 2010 focused on providing tools that the practitioner could use to improve their events. Feature

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speaker King Dahl, executive director of event design at MGM Resorts Events in Las Vegas, brought a sense of passion and purpose to the opening key note address that left the audience enthused and wanting more. Other sessions, presented by a range of local and foreign experts, hit on a wide range of topics like protocol, managing your event team, social media, project management, corporate social responsibility, and food and beverage. The trade show featured sound and lighting companies, rentals companies, event management companies and education institutions, among others. Participant feedback was positive as attendees felt that the sessions provided hands-on information that could be used to improve their skills and business operations. Eventologyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highlight and closing event took place in Chaguaramas against the backdrop of the beautiful Caribbean sea, as designer Brian Mac Farlane launched his Carnival presentation for 2011, Humanity: the Circle of Life, a seamless event that tantalised the senses from beginning to end. Event management in Trinidad and Tobago has a bright future ahead. Eventology has proved that professionals are constantly looking for avenues to improve themselves and that partnerships are the way to long-term success. It has also shown that there is a need for more private and public sector support in the area of sponsorship and overall investment in the development of the industry at large. In the words of King Dahl, our future industry success will depend on passion, perseverance and professionalism. Eventology is produced by Derrick Lewis of Unlimited Functions and Lisa Ghany of Xceptional Events Limited. To become a member of ISES T and T go to www.ises.com.

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restaurants

restaurants by Desiree Seebaran

Gourmet cuisine is great, and Trinidad and Tobago boasts of a plethora of restaurants gifted in Asian, Indian, creole, Syrian and other world cuisines to cater to every exotic food desire you could have. But one of the best secrets about T&T cuisine can be found on busy street corners day and night. The variety of street food in Trinidad and Tobago is vast. One of the most popular is an Indian dish called ‘doubles’: curried chick peas (called ‘channa’ locally) sandwiched between two soft fried pancakes, made of split pea powder and flour and eaten with your hands. Doubles attract early morning commuters, or those craving a nighttime snack. Many visitors make the trip to Maracas beach on the north coast, and it’s hard to miss the crowds of people lining up to purchase ‘bake and shark’ sandwiches. Bake, a fried bread-like roll, is sliced and the fried shark meat placed inside. Many shark and bake vendors offer a variety of extra fillings and condiments, from ketchup to garlic sauce to coleslaw and pineapple slices! Trinbagonians also love thick corn soup, packed with chunks of corn, dumplings and tuberous veggies; soup vendors are busiest at lunch or nighttime. And these days if you’re on the sidewalk in a busy night spot, you’ll see vendors wrapping up Arabian chicken, beef, lamb or veggie gyros for an eager clientele. Locals chow down on other street foods like souse (pickled meat), punches made out of fruits, oysters with hot pepper sauce and coconut water straight from the coconut. When sampling street food, take precautions. Ensure you purchase from a vendor with a food badge (annually renewed certification from the Ministry of Health that they have been screened and authorised to handle and sell food and beverage items). Look for a nearby water supply, and ensure that the food handlers themselves are clean and healthy, with their heads covered. Avoid foods that have been standing at room temperature for a while. And enjoy yourself; what better way to immerse yourself in our culture than to lime with locals and have a cheap midnight snack?

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Restaurants Mélange Restaurant 40 Ariapita Avenue and Cornelio Street, Woodbrook, Trinidad Hotels Reservations: Tel/Fax: (868) 628-8687 E-mail: info@melangetrinidad.com Mélange is an elegant 60-seat restaurant where guests enjoy a selection of international favourites fused with Caribbean bursts of flavours. The spirit of the restaurant is reflected in presentations that are unmatched, service that is friendly and indulgent, and an ambience that is both relaxed and romantic. Renowned for seafood, roast rack of lamb and the best-tasting steaks on the island. Open for lunch daily from 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m. and for dinner from 6:30 p.m.–10:00 p.m. All major credit cards are accepted.

Bois Cano & Tiki Village Reservations: (868) 622-KPOK (5765) Fax: (868) 622-9677 Kapok Hotel, 16–18 Cotton Hill, St. Clair, Trinidad E-mail: stay@kapokhotel.com Choose from two of the best under one roof. Tiki Village is a unique Asian-Polynesian restaurant, situated on the eighth floor of Kapok Hotel. Offering a stunning view of the capital city and the Savannah. Feast on sumptuous weekday buffet or à la Carte lunches and dinners. Live entertainment on Friday nights. Enjoy Dim Sum every Sunday at Tiki Village. Bois Cano Bistro and Bar is the ideal place to rendezvous and relax. Sip an exotic cocktail and enjoy Trini-flavoured dishes under a starry sky. Whatever your mood, Bois Cano will provide an experience that will linger.

Häagen-Dazs Shops Ellerslie Plaza, Maraval: (868) 622-8833 Gulf City, San Fernando: (868) 652-1513 Lowlands, Tobago: (868) 637-7270 MovieTowne, Invaders Bay: (868) 623-8054 Price Plaza, Chaguanas: (868) 672-7178 Indulge in pure pleasure at the Häagen-Dazs® Shops of Trinidad & Tobago. Visit us and explore our collection of world-famous all-natural ice cream, specialty desserts, frozen drinks, coffees, pastries, cocktail creations and more. A perfect treat for any occasion with dine-in or take-out service available. Try our one-of-akind Häagen-Dazs® fondue with friends and loved ones! Reservations are welcomed.

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Restaurants Soong’s Great Wall Reservations: (868) 652-WALL (9255)/657-5050/652-2583 97 Circular Road, San Fernando Fax: (868) 653-3834 E-mail: soongsgreatwall@gmail.com The Great Wall of China is the longest wall built entirely by hand, making it a remarkable engineering feat…Today, Soong’s Great Wall prides itself in that same personal attention that builds longlasting relationships making us a World-Class Restaurant. Relax and be pampered by our highly trained staff personally instructed in the art of making you feel welcome. Our famous Wednesday Night Buffet offers succulent lobster among the many delectable dishes. Don’t miss our Sunday Lunch Buffet. “Welcome the experience—we know you’ll be back again and again!!!”

HAKKA Restaurant & Bar 4 Taylor Street, Woodbrook, P.O.S Tel: 221 0080 Fax: 221 0080 E-mail: info@hakkarestaurant.com www.hakkarestaurant.com DINING: 11 a.m. - 11 p.m. Monday - Thursday 11 a.m. – 12 a.m. Friday and Saturday TAKE AWAY: 11a.m - 7:30 p.m. Monday - Saturday Hakka cuisine is an elegant fusion of Chinese recipes with distinct Indian spices and flavours. Over 100 years ago the original recipe traveled from Mei Zhou, China to India with the Hakka Chinese people, who eventually settled in Calcutta. Over several generations, the marriage of oriental techniques and Indian ingredients evolved into a gastronomic explosion for the taste buds. At HAKKA (Restaurant & Bar) we strive tirelessly to bring this culinary magic to you. Our chefs have traveled from the top Hakka restaurants in Calcutta to meticulously prepare dishes that define the sights, tastes and aromas of the HAKKA experience.

Joseph’s “A World Apart” 3A Rookery Nook, Maraval, Port-of-Spain, Trinidad E-mail: info@josephstnt.com Lunch: Monday-Friday 11:30am to 2:30 pm. Dinner: Monday-Saturday from 6:30pm. Nestled in the verdant Rookery Nook in Maraval, Joseph’s has become a haven in the hustle of the city. Joseph’s architecture welcomes the lushness of the surrounding area. The chirping of birds in the tall willowing trees is the perfect soundtrack for a menu that touches each of your senses. Guests can enjoy the dishes of Greece, France and the Arab peninsula, complimented by wines from the well-stocked wine cellar. Diners can choose to dine in the main dining room, cooled by fans and natural breezes, or they may prefer the intimacy of the elegant air-conditioned rooms. These rooms are ideally suited for meetings, seminars, workshops or family gatherings. Joseph’s also cater for all occasions, on location or at a venue of your choice.

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Restaurants The Verandah 10, Rust Street, St. Clair. Tel: (868) 622 6287 Email: verandah.food@gmail.com Set in an old fashioned, well preserved St. Clair residence, The Verandah offers dining either indoors (air conditioned), on our breezy verandah or in a picturesque courtyard. The menu changes daily offering a blend of international dishes with a very strong Caribbean influence, often described as “Freestyle Caribbean Cooking.” The Verandah is open for lunch Monday to Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m., and dinner on Thursday and Saturday from 7:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. The Verandah also caters for functions and private parties.

Veni Mangé Restaurant

Reservations: (868) 624-4597 67A Ariapita Avenue, Woodbrook, Port of Spain. Email: venimange@gmail.com www.venimange.com For typical West Indian cuisine, Veni Mangé is a must! Sisters Allyson Hennessy (a Cordon Bleu Chef) and Roses Hezekiah have established a favourite meeting spot for friends and visitors, who soon become regulars. Located in an old colonial home with demerara windows, colourful décor, tropical plants and local art, the restaurant epitomises Caribbean ambience. The menu changes daily, offering a variety of local dishes in the beautiful tropical setting that is Veni Mangé! Fodor’s online travel resource said that Veni Mangé had “The best lunches in town …” and the restaurant has also been featured in Patricia’ Schultz’s book, 1000 Places to See Before You Die. Even the New York Times praised the restaurant’s culinary quality: “A meal at Veni Mangé is the wisest bet!” Monday to Friday: Lunch from 11.30 a.m. to 3.00 p.m. Wednesday and Friday: Dinner from 7 p.m.

Benihana Level 2 Southern Wing, Trincity Mall, Trincity Tel: (868) 640-0549 / (868) 640-9644 E-mail: benihanatt@yahoo.com THE FLAVOUR OF JAPAN. A meal at Benihana is unlike any other dining experience. At Benihana, you watch as your personal chef performs the ancient art of Teppanyaki. You listen as razor-sharp blades slice through tender steak and juicy chicken. You take in the aroma of sizzling shrimp, lobster and savoury vegetables, all prepared to perfection on a steel grill right before your eyes at your table. So bring a friend, a date, your children, your whole family or your office crew. Bring anyone who enjoys a delicious, freshly cooked meal with a little fun thrown in!

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Restaurants Angelo’s Italian Restaurant 38 Ariapita Avenue, Woodbrook Tel: (868) 628-5551 / 628-7854 Fax: (868) 622-9562 E-mail: angelos@flowtrinidad.com Calabrian-born Chef Angelo Cofone, brings to Trinidad the authentic southern flavors of Italy, with over twenty years of experience working both in Italy and London he has brought his magical culture to this island putting Trinidad a cut above the rest. All diners are mesmerized by his mouthwatering cuisine and the charm and warmth that he generates. Together with his highly trained staff, wife and two of his three sons, they have produced a restaurant that is the finest of dining. Reservations necessary. Hours: Monday to Friday—Lunch: 11:30 a.m–2:30 p.m. Dinner: 6:30 p.m.–10:30 p.m. Saturday—Dinner: 6:30 p.m.–10:30 p.m.

Chaud Restaurant 2 Queen’s Park West, Port of Spain Opening Hours: Lunch: Monday to Saturday 11:00 a.m.–3:00 p.m. Dinner: Sunday to Saturday 6:00 p.m.–10:30 p.m. Reservations: (868) 623-0375 Office: (868) 624-2885 Fax: (868) 625-4056 E-mail: reservation@chaudkm.com www.chaudkm.com Chaud is the result of a vision held by Khalid Mohammed since he was a young chef. His distinctive cuisine, intense focus and passion for food, have made his dream a reality. Chaud’s elegant and intimate dining room boasts views of the Queen’s Park Savannah. Our private dining room, The Savannah Room, accommodates up to forty guests for seated breakfast, lunch or dinner parties and fifty guests for standing cocktail receptions.

Palki’s Restaurant 27 Todd Street, San Fernando, Trinidad Tel: (868) 652-1239 E-mail: palkirestaurant@yahoo.com PALKI—Whatever your occasion, PALKI makes it one to remember Palki’s have dedicated every effort to present you with the true Gastronomical Art of Indian cooking. Encounter the taste of Authentic North Indian and Hakka Chinese Cuisine, through the medium of traditional Tandoori, Hakka Chinese, Curried dishes and Bengali Sweets. One only needs to look at our menu to appreciate the versatility of traditions that stir up one’s taste buds and leave a lingering taste in one’s mouth. Palki’s Exotic Cuisine of India produces sophisticated and elegant food. Our Cuisine can grace any major city in the Caribbean. Good Food…Good Feelings…Satisfying people’s hunger for life’s simple pleasures.

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Restaurants Ruby Tuesday MovieTowne Complex, Port-of-Spain Tel: (868) 624-6566 Fax: (868) 624-0001 Grand Bazaar, Churchill Roosevelt Highway Tel: (868) 663-6566 Fax: (868) 663-7875 Price Plaza, Chaguanas Tel: (868) 665-5369 Fax: (868) 665-3742 E-mail: dachin@rubytuesdaytrinidad.com Ruby Tuesday, the ideal fun spot for the entire family—now at three great locations: MovieTowne Entertainment Complex, The City of Grand Bazaar and Price Plaza, Chaguanas, where you will find our world famous Garden Bar and a wide variety of mouthwatering dishes. Ruby Tuesday—the ideal atmosphere for your dining pleasure & satisfaction…More Choices, More Taste, More Fun!

Woodford Café Tel: (868) 627-café (2233) Fax: (868) 623-7874 Shop #55 Fiesta Plaza, Movie Towne Boulevard, Movie Towne Woodford Café – The “heartbeat” of Fiesta Plaza, Movie Towne & Price Plaza, Chaguanas. Our menu offers unparalleled variety, from mouthwatering “out-of-the-pot” stews, super-sized burgers and sandwiches, to USDA Beef-brand steaks done to your liking. Things really start to heat up when the sun goes down, you can find something different happening every night of the week: Specialty Menu Nights, Live Entertainment, Karaoke and the Ultimate Friday After-Work & Late-Night Lime, Dine & Wine. Woodford Café is also available for all types of Private Functions. Come down to Woodford Café today for the only “Vibe-Dining” experience in the Caribbean.

WOK HAY #A 11-12 Price Plaza North Endeavour, Chaguanas Tel: (868) 665-4WOK (4965) (868) 627-2744 E-mail: dachin@rubytuesdaytrinidad.com Hours: Sun. – Thurs. 11a.m. to 11p.m. Fri. and Sat. 11a.m. to midnight Because you have a taste for the spicy, sweet, savory, exotic flavours of pan-Asian foods, we offer you… Wok Hay. Bringing you dishes made with only the freshest and highest-quality ingredients is our passion, our promise, and our pleasure. Wok Hay translates to mean “the breath of the wok” – the searing fire, the rising steam, the energy and spirit that this ancient Cantonese cooking method brings to the culinary arts. We live up to our name by preparing your selections from farm-fresh vegetables, unique sauces that are based on age-old recipes yet as modern as today, fragrant spices, and chilies that are at the peak of flavour. Wok Hay… your way to enjoy the delightful tastes of the Far East, right here in T&T!

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Restaurants Zanzibar Shop # 54 Fiesta Plaza, Invaders Bay, MovieTowne Tel: (868) 627-0752 Fax: (868) 627-0713

Zanzibar by the Sea Peake Marina, Western Main Rd., Chaguaramas Tel: (868) 634-3346

Welcome to Zanzibar and Zanzibar by the Sea—a truly different kind of dining and entertainment experience. Located at Fiesta Plaza Invader’s Bay in the MovieTowne Complex and now at Peake Marina in Chaguaramas, Zanzibar offers memorable dining and ‘liming’ in a unique environment; an inimitable blend of Trinidadian and international styles. Experience fine dining in a casual atmosphere. Join us for lunch and dinner Monday to Sunday and choose from our broad menu featuring international dishes prepared by our celebrated chefs. From 10:30 p.m., witness the incredible transformation from fine restaurant to trendy, sophisticated nightbar each night. So put Zanzibar on your to-do list during your visit to Trinidad and Tobago. Call our head office at 645-0712.

Subway Head Office: 645-8158 or 662-5716 Branches: Diego Martin; Western Main Road, St. James; Long Circular Mall, St. James; Frederick & Hart Streets, Port of Spain; Queen & Edward Streets, Port of Spain; Henry Street, Port of Spain; Independence Square, Port of Spain; Eastern Main Road, Barataria; MovieTowne; Ariapita Avenue; Shoppes of Maraval; Eastern Main Road, Curepe; UWI Campus, St. Augustine; Valpark Shopping Plaza, Valsayn; Broadway, Arima; Trincity Mall, Trincity; Price Plaza, Chaguanas; Gulf City Mall & Gulf City Car Park; High Street, San Fernando; Pt. Lisas, Couva; Lowlands, Tobago; Debe; Tropical Plaza, Point a Pierre; Princes Town; Eastern Main Road, Sangre Grande; Point Fortin; Dumfries Road, La Romaine; Tunapuna; Highland Plaza, Glencoe; Montrose; Mount Hope; Scarborough, Tobago; Piarco International Airport. For additional information or directions to the Subway restaurant nearest to you, call our Head Office at 645-8158 or 662-5716.

Kaizan Sushi Shop #7, Fiesta Plaza, Invaders Bay, MovieTowne Tel: (868) 623-5437, 623-5370 Welcome to Kaizan Sushi, a truly different kind of dining and entertainment experience. Located at Fiesta Plaza, MovieTowne Complex, Kaizan Sushi offers memorable dining in a unique setting. So put Kaizan Sushi on your to do list during your visit to Trinidad & Tobago. Call our head office at 645-0712.

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Restaurants More Vino/More Sushi 23 O’ Connor Street Woodbrook Tel (868) 622-VINO (8466) Fax: (868) 622-2710 Email: info@morevino.com Website: www.morevino.com Opening Hours: Monday to Saturday: 11.00 a.m. for Lunch and Dinner More Vino opened its doors in 2005 and evolved into the first wine bar in Trinidad and Tobago. In 2009, More Sushi was launched giving ’birth’ to the unique experience of pairing fine wines with Japanese cuisine. More Vino/More Sushi has become the ultimate “liming” spot where locals and visitors can choose from a wide variety of international wines, great sushi, premium spirits, beers, cigars and hookahs in an outdoor setting that is comparable to none. Drop by for lunch or an evening of dining and perfect wines. Come and see for yourself why More Vino/More Sushi is the place to be.

Bombay Duck

— A journey of flavours Upstairs Highland Plaza, Glencoe Tel: 632-DUCK, 632-BDBD E-mail: bombayduck_vlgrouptt@yahoo.com Facebook: Bombay Duck Upstairs Fiesta Plaza, MovieTowne, Invaders Bay, Port of Spain E-mail: bombayduck_vlgroup@yahoo.com Opening hours: Everyday for lunch and dinner (except Mondays) If you have a passion for authentic Indian cuisine, you will find Bombay Duck simply irresistible! Bombay Duck is the only restaurant in Trinidad and the wider Caribbean, where authentic Indian cuisine from the North, South, East and West of India is served. Bombay Duck is the ultimate culinary experience where you can embark on a journey of flavours certain to tantalise your taste buds. Bombay Duck is the only Indian restaurant that can boast of a premium bar with wide selection of wines. An ideal place to hold business meetings, corporate events and dinner parties. We also cater for weddings, Christmas parties and various functions.

Battimamzelle Restaurant & Coblentz Cottage Conference Centre 44 Coblentz Avenue, Cascade, Port of Spain Tel: (868) 621 – 0541/4, 621-0591 Fax: (868) 624 – 7566 E-mail: coblentzinn@tstt.net.tt www.coblentzinn.com Battimamzelle offers dining under a glass-covered canopy where guests can see the stars and enjoy a cascading waterfall set in a lush tropical garden. Our culinary teams have designed international dishes with their own Caribbean twist to please the most discriminating palate. Our friendly courteous staff ensures professional service at all times. The ambience is unparalleled and unique in every way. Battimamzelle caters for all functions both on-site and off-site. Free valet parking. Coblentz Cottage, our new Conference and Banquet Centre, is a multi purpose facility designed to suit guests individual needs.

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Restaurants The New Rasam Level 2, Bldg. 0-4, City Of Grand Bazaar Churchill Roosevelt Highway, Valsayn Tel: (868) 645-0994 Fax (868) 663-7392 Lunch: Mon-Sat, 11:15am to 4:30pm Dinner: Mon-Sat, 6:00pm to 11:00pm In north Indian cuisine, the flavors are smooth, mild and mouthwatering while in south Indian, the food is spicy and cooked to perfection. The New Rasam is the only restaurant in Trinidad and Tobago that serves authentic North and South Indian cuisine prepared by experienced Indian-born chefs. We import ingredients from India and grow authentic herbs to bring you authentic flavors. Sitting in air conditioned comfort, you can order delights like pepper shrimp, crab cakes, tandoori zinga or tangri kebab, Bombay duck curry, lobster masala or mapla lamb curry. Many vegetarian selections are also available.

House of Jaipur Indian Lifestyle and Tearoom Reservations: (868) 624-7465 14, O’Connor Street, Woodbrook, Port of Spain, Trinidad E-mail: hojp@tstt.net.tt www.houseofjaipur.com Boutique: Mon–Sat 10:00 a.m.–6:00 p.m. Tearoom: Tue–Sat 10:00 a.m.–6:00 p.m. Welcome to the destination where culture echoes, tradition speaks, and beauty enthralls. House of Jaipur invites you to enjoy the vivid kaleidoscope of the orient and immerse yourself in the timeless mystery and beauty of India. Have a cup of chai in our quaint Indian tearoom, and indulge yourself in some our delicious Indian appetizers and chutneys made daily by our in-house chef. Log on to our Web site at www.houseofjaipur.com and discover the variety of teas we offer and the delightful selection of Indian savouries and sweets.

Buffet King Restaurant Reservations or Take-away: (868) 671-8795/672-9483 Store #102, Centre Pointe Mall, Ramsaran St., Chaguanas Buffet King was established in 1998 and is the only restaurant in the Caribbean to offer Buffet Lunch and Dinner every day of the week throughout the year. No à la carte options. Our Chinese and International cuisine menu offers a variety of over fifty different items on the Buffet Table including a dessert bar and a salad bar. We also offer accommodations for business meetings, weddings, parties etc. Half-price on ages 5–9 and Birthdays; celebrants must present ID. Lunch served 11:30a.m.–3:30p.m. and dinner from 6:30p.m.–10:00p.m.

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Restaurants Adam’s Bagels 15 A Saddle Road, Maraval Tel: (868) 622-2435 Fax: (868) 622-3487 E-mail: adam@adamsbagels.com Adam’s Bagels and specialty bread is a family-owned and managed bakery, restaurant, gourmet shoppe, situated in the ever-growing foothills of the Maraval valley. Adam’s offers a wide variety of baked products of all ethnic groups as well as a comfortable restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch and tea. The gourmet shoppe boasts a lovely selection of European chocolates, oils and vinegars, pastas and salad dressings. The friendly atmosphere at Adam’s will surely lure you back time and again. For the best breakfast in town, visit Adam’s.

Lime Inn Acajou Hotel, Grande Riviere, Trinidad Tel: (868) 670-3771 Fax: (868) 670-4566 E-mail: info@acajoutrinidad.com www.acajoutrinidad.com Reflecting our own mix of Sweden and Trinidad, our menu is a lovingly created marriage between local and continental influences. Come and relax in a setting that will completely take your breath away.

El Pecos Grill 84A Corner DeVerteuil St. & Ariapita Avenue, Woodbrook Tel: (868) 622-9713

68 Ariapita Avenue Woodbrook Tel: (868) 628-9908

7 Saddle Rd 7–11 Diego Martin Main Rd Maraval Diego Martin Tel: (868) 628-4723 Tel: (868) 63-PECOS El Pecos offers you the best in fast casual dining, with a solid reputation for consistently good food and value for money. At any location you can have the same mouth-watering, hearty, homestyle cooking that has become the El Pecos trademark. Indulge yourself in delicious chicken, pork, lamb, fish and pig tail, or try our 100% beef burgers, all fire grilled to perfection and served with a variety of superb sides. Simply serve yourself, weigh and pay for your box by the pound. Complete your meal with one of our sweet tantalising treats!!! So come in and let us take your taste buds on a sumptuous adventure! EL PECOS ... THE FLAVOUR KEEPS GETTING BETTER !!!!!!!

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Restaurants Irie Bites 71A Ariapita Avenue, Woodbrook Tel/Fax: (868) 622-7364 153 Western Main Road, St James Tel/Fax: (868) 622-6725 www.iriebitesjerk.com Unique and flavourful, Irie Bites combines the earthy taste of good old Jamaica with the excitement of Trini cuisine. Our Signature Brand Irie Bites provides mouth-watering authentic Jamaican Jerk and smoked BBQ chicken, pork, lamb, ribs, fish. For those on the go or busy at the office, there’s no need to sacrifice quality and value. Simply call, place your order and collect. Check out our menu online then call or fax. Let our red, green, yellow and black sign lead you to a true taste of Jamaica. Irie Bites – savour the experience!

Ylang Ylang Sea Terrace Reservations: (868) 670-2217 Mt. Plaisir Estate Hotel, Grande Rivière, Trinidad Tel: (868) 670-1868 Fax: (868) 670-1015 E-mail: maktoub@mac.com www.mtplaisir.com Located at the main estate house at Mt. Plaisir Estate Hotel, this cozy and elegant restaurant is open daily for breakfast, lunch, afternoon snacks and dinner. Ylang Ylang offers a wide variety of seafood plates, fresh vegetables and tropical fruits that are organically grown on the estate, in exciting menus that find their roots in the local Creole, Indian and Italian cuisine. Exotic fresh juices and a wide selection of wines will be the perfect complement to make your meal a memorable experience.

LeVels Ultrabar & Lounge #1, Taylor Street, Woodbrook, Port of Spain Tel: (868) 622-5350 E-mail: levels.lounge@gmail.com

LeVels Ultrabar & Lounge is a dynamic Sushi Bar and Lounge consisting of five LeVels of comfort and casual style. Alfresco dining is available on the Ground Floor on the stylish wooden Deck LeVel as well as the Street LeVel patio on the perimeter of the main building. If you prefer indoors, Pub LeVel allows for dining and drinking in a relaxed atmosphere at either the Sushi Bar or the Main Bar Area. On the Lounge LeVel, leather arm chairs and plush sofas are scattered throughout the wooden facade of the second floor which also boasts its own bar and dining area. The Ultra LeVel is located on the third floor and is a private eight person lounge that can be hired for intimate evenings. A diverse Sushi menu is available, with traditional Sashimi, Nigiri and Classic Maki Rolls as well as Flambéed Rolls, Crunchy and even Sweet Rolls. An exciting non-sushi 10-item menu that that changes every 3 months is also available. We invite you to Step up to our LeVel!

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Restaurants B Lounge Located at Eat It Restaurant Marabella Tel: (868) 657-1928 • Fax: (868) 652-1097 E-mail: blounge.tt@gmail.com Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/blounge.tt Designed with an ultra-modern theme, the B Lounge is an experience in international and Caribbean fusion cuisine. B Lounge features a sophisticated buffet room with high definition LCD display, quality music and the perfect ambiance for dining and drinks. If you are looking for a location to host a small private function, cocktail reception or business meeting, B Lounge is the perfect place for you. Our meals and appetizers are expertly prepared by experienced chefs. We can offer live cooking presentations and we welcome menu suggestions for your special occasions. B Lounge... Elevate your taste!

Eat It Restaurant #2 Scott Street, San Fernando Tel: (868) 653-2848 Roundabout Marabella Tel: (868) 652-9596 E-mail: eatitrestaurant@gmail.com Founded twenty years ago in San Fernando, Eat It is a high-quality grilled-food restaurant with an international appeal. Our menu features a tasty array of grilled meats, seafood, sandwiches and salads, all complemented with our world-famous barbecue sauce. Quality and taste are the main hallmarks of our restaurants, which all feature modern ambiance for the comfort of our customers. Pay us a visit and you will agree, we are the taste of quality.

Chaud Creole 6 Nook Avenue, St. Ann’s Tel: (868) 624-2885 Email: reservations@chaudkm.com Website : http://chaudcreole.com/ Welcome to Chaud Creole, the epitome of fusion between contemporary dining and traditional Trinidad and Tobago cuisines. Owner Chef Khalid Mohammed is the epicurean master behind the original Chaud restaurant at 2 Queen’s Park West. At Chaud Creole, located at 6 Nook Avenue, St. Ann’s, he reintroduces T&T locals and visitors to the flavours, fresh ingredients and sustainable cooking practices behind earthy Caribbean gastronomy at Chaud Creole. You’ll sit in air-conditioned comfort, surrounded by Caribbean décor and art, to sample delicious rustic stews, curries and casseroles developed, reinvented and plated with modern flair. Open for lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday; Sunday brunch. Private dining room available. Opens in February 2011.

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Restaurants Taryn’s, The Panyol Place 23 Mucurapo Road, St. James, Port of Spain Tel / Fax: (868) 622 3989 E-mail: thepanyolplace@gmail.com Mon – Fri: 7 a.m. – 5 p.m. Sat: 8 a.m. – 3 p.m. Offering a cozy and friendly environment characterized by original traditions of Venezuela, Taryn’s, The Panyol Place is a unique eating establishment bringing an authentic and typical Venezuelan and Latin American cuisine to its clients. Professional personal service and courtesy accompany our original fresh corn-based dishes which are served every day. Come and enjoy a wide variety of Arepas, Empanadas, Cachapas, Hallacas and much more with various fillings including white cheese. Enjoy fresh fruit juices. Also,Taryn’s offers a variety of dishes for lunch on a daily basis, all with a Venezuelan flavour, such as Pabellón Criollo. Try our special soups on Saturdays. Spanish spoken.

Burger King Restaurant Holdings Limited Restaurant Support Centre Unit 5, Lot 2c, Chootoo Road, El Socorro Tel: (868) 674-2729 Fax: (868) 675-2104 Email: rsc@bkpopeye.com BK, ’Home of the Whopper’ is known for its flame broiled beef burgers. Celebrate fast food diversity with BK as it boasts of variety to satisfy your palette from fish to steak, chicken and ham products. We are conveniently located at Movietowne in Invaders Bay; Trincity Mall; Maraval; West Mall; Long Circular Mall; Grand Bazaar; Price Plaza and Gulf City.

Popeyes Restaurant Holdings Limited Restaurant Support Centre Unit 5, Lot 2c, Chootoo Road, El Socorro Tel: (868) 674-2729 Fax: (868) 675-2104 Email: rsc@bkpopeye.com Discover Popeyes Louisiana Kitchen, built around the traditional Southern American home-style cooking. At Popeyes, food is our passion and we are renowned for our chicken and seafood. Try our signature side items to complete your meal. We are conveniently located at Movietowne in Invaders Bay; Trincity Mall; Maraval Road and Gulf City.

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Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a

Trin i Thing Fruits of Trinidad and Tobago

by Nasser Khan

Trinidad and Tobago is blessed with a tropical climate and fertile soil that lends itself to a proliferation of tropical fruits that flourish throughout the length and breadth of the twin island nation. Extensive research shows that brain-based studies point to a definite link between healthy eating and improved brain functioning. So sinking your teeth into some of the many of Trinidad and Tobagoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s delicious edible fruits may not be a bad idea! The nutritional and medicinal contents and values of many of these fruits are today the subjects of world wide interest in the health and medical fields. Fruits like papaya (carica papaya), soursop (annona muricata), guava (psidium guajava) and mango (mangifera indica) are known for their nutritional and medicinal content and value; all are chock full of antioxidants, vitamins and enzymes. There are some 35 different delicious varieties of mango species growing in Trinidad and Tobago with exotic names such as Julie, Starch, Long, Rose, Hog, Calabash, Doux-doux, Turpentine, Graham, Axe, and Vert, the latter the subject of a popular folk song. Even some of the less popular and rarer fruits like balata (manilkara bidentata), caimite (chrysophyllum caimito), dongs (zizyphus), pommerac (syzygium malaccense), pommecythere (spondias cytherea), sapodilla (manilkara achras) and sugar apple (annona squamosa) are treats that will leave your taste buds crying out for seconds. Researcher Nasser Khan has compiled a full-colour chart of 84 fruits, the result of over two years of work. The educational chart, complete with all the fruits in alphabetical order along with their scientific names, has been distributed to all pre-schools, primary and secondary schools, national libraries and other deserving institutions compliments of corporate citizen First Citizens Bank and with the help of the Ministry of Education. Anyone interested in obtaining a copy can e-mail their request to fruitstt@live.com.

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experience

The Trinidad

T&T Culinary Teams Looks to Raise the Bar

Foodies like me and those in the hospitality industry in T&T have become almost accustomed to hearing that the Trinidad and Tobago Culinary team came home from the annual Taste of the Caribbean competition, held in Puerto Rico in 2010, with a gold medal. After all, the team has been grabbing gold for the past five years, four of which have been led by Chef Bernard Long. “The different cultural cuisines that we can pull upon help to give us the edge,” said Long. From the time that the team is chosen early in the year, they practice hard together to present well at the Taste of the Caribbean. And in addition to winning gold as a team, individual chefs also get a chance to shine. Chefs Sabrina Rosales (Sabrina’s Executive Caterers), Lennox Scott, (Botticellis Restaurant) and Adrian Cumberbatch, (The Carlton Savannah) all distinguished themselves in the individual chefs competition, Rosales winning silver and the gentlemen both earning bronze medals. And Carla Cupid was originally chosen to be team bartender. Sean Daniel replaced her since she couldn’t obtain a US visa in time, butCupid created the drink that was awarded Most Creative Rum Drink at the competition. Even the youngest chef on the team, 22-year-old junior chef Abhay Nair, won a prize for most innovative junior chef, based on a mystery basket of ingredients. The position of junior chef is new and

by Desiree Seebaran

Nair was the first to be chosen to fill that position for the T&T team. But now that the team has proven its superiority in the Caribbean many times over since T&T first entered Taste of the Caribbean in 1999, it’s time to look further afield. Long certainly thinks so. “What I and a lot of the past winning team members are looking forward to doing is forming a senior culinary team. I’ve been on the team since 1997; we’ve won the competition four times, and no one else has done that.” Long and his counterparts are looking to enter the Culinary Olympics in Frankfurt, Germany, one of the most prestigious culinary competitions around, as well as other high profile competitions in Europe and the United States to put T&T on the map as a culinary destination. This ambition is definitely supported by the Trinidad Hotels Restaurants and Tourism Association (THRTA), the body that selects the culinary team, raises sponsorship and prepares them for international competition. T&T team next year, led by Raymond Edwards from the Courtyard Marriot, will be the first team to really benefit from this new direction. From 2011, the Taste of the Caribbean will be held on Miami, Florida. “We are putting our funding packages together, looking to form partnerships,” said THRTA executive director Richard Hackshaw. “We have the talent, and ones who want it the most will go.”

Junior chef Abhay Nair won Most Innovative Junior Chef with this dish

Hackshaw also said that there’s a need to brand T&T with national dishes, and the culinary teams of the future are part of that marketing thrust. “There are several street foods that come to mind when you say T&T, like doubles, shark and bake. But we want more than that; we want to own pelau, curried duck, fish broth.” The team is definitely continuing to carve out a niche for itself and its promising trajectory is something to aspire to for up and coming young chefs like Nair. “It does open doors for you to network and meet people in the hotel industry and the tourism industry as a whole, and get the benefit of advice and experience and their mistakes,” Nair said.

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Fast Facts on Trinidad Location Trinidad is situated in the Caribbean 11 km (7 miles) northeast of the coast of Venezuela. Geographic coordinates are Latitude 10.5°N, Longitude 61.5°W. Climate and Geography Trinidad’s climate is pleasant, with daytime temperatures averaging 31°C (87°F), moderated by northeast trade winds, while nights are a cool 21°C (69°F). Trinidad is just on the outer edge of the path of hurricanes and tropical storms. The highest point, El Cerro del Aripo, situated in the northern range, is 940 m (3,080 ft) above sea level. Trinidad is 4,828 sq km (1,864 sq miles) in area. The Government Trinidad and Tobago gained its independence from Great Britain on August 31, 1962. It became a Republic on August 1, 1976. The Head of State is the President. Executive power is vested in the Prime Minister and Government following democratic elections every five years. Legal System The legal system is based on the common law of England and Wales and on statutes made in the Trinidad and Tobago Parliament. The judicial system is composed of the Magistrates Court, and the Supreme Court (the High Court and the Court of Appeal). Although the Caribbean Court of Justice sitting in Trinidad, is the final appellate court for certain CARICOM jurisdictions, the Privy Council remains the highest court of appeal for T&T. Population and Labour Force Estimated population is 1.3 million. The ethnic mix consists of 40.3% of East Indian descent, 39.5% African, Mixed 18.4%, European 0.6%, Chinese and other 1.2%. Education The educational system is modelled after the British system and produces one of the highest standards of education in the Caribbean. Primary level education is compulsory and secondary education is now available to all children leaving primary school. Tertiary education providers include the University of the West Indies (UWI), University of Trinidad & Tobago (UTT), and other institutions. All government-provided and sponsored education from primary to tertiary level is free of charge. Health Medical services are free at the government

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institutions and clinics, but a fee is charged at all others. 24-hr emergency services are available at several medical facilities. For more information visit www. health.gov.tt. Economy Trinidad and Tobago is the most diversified and industrialised economy in the English-speaking Caribbean, and has earned a reputation as an excellent investment site for international businesses. There are substantial proven reserves of petroleum and natural gas, and heavy industries such as iron and steel, methanol and nitrogenous fertilisers are well developed. Electricity Trinidad and Tobago has a reliable supply of electricity, with rates among the lowest in the Caribbean. The domestic and commercial supply voltage is 110/220 volts, 60 cycles. Water The water service is reliable in most hotels and guesthouses. The water is chlorinated and safe to drink. Bottled water is available island-wide. Roads Driving is on the left-hand side. Newspapers There are 3 daily newspapers in Trinidad: Trinidad Guardian, Trinidad Express and Newsday and several weekly publications. The news distribution service, Newspaper Direct, offers printon-demand, same-day international newspapers. Tel: (868) 674-2131. Telecommunications T&T has a modern telecommunications infrastructure with the latest in digital technology and fibre optics systems. Telecommunications Services of Trinidad and Tobago (TSTT) is the main provider of landline and mobile services. Digicel, another telecommunications provider in the Caribbean offers mobile and land line phone services. Flow offers cable, landline and internet services. Broadband Internet is widely available. Departure Tax A departure tax of TT$ 100 is included in the cost of airline tickets. It is also payable for departure by sea. Immigration, Work Permits & Visas Visitors to Trinidad and Tobago must possess valid passports and return or ongoing tickets for successful entry. Work

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Permits are required for business stays beyond 30 days. Visa extensions can be obtained from the Immigration Office on 67 Frederick Street, while work permits can be obtained from the Ministry of National Security, 18 Knox Street, Port of Spain. TV and Radio There are 8 local television stations. Cable and DirecTV® are widely available. Radio is very popular in Trinidad with approximately 30 FM stations and 2 AM stations. Safety in Trinidad and Tobago Drugs: Visitors need to be aware that there are severe penalties, including long jail terms for possession and trafficking of illegal drugs like cannabis (marijuana, weed or ganja) or cocaine. Centipede and Scorpion stings: While not lethal, the severity and degree of discomfort depends on individual sensitivity and allergic reactions. For safety, consult a doctor. Manchineel Apples (Hippomane mancinella): Often found near to or on coastal beaches, avoid any sort of contact with manchineel trees or fruit. The fruit, called manchineel apples, are very fragrant but also very poisonous and sap from the tree and fruit, will severely blister the skin. Portuguese Man-O-War (Physalia physalis): These are not true “jellyfish”. Their small, translucent air bladders with a purple to light-blue tint, usually float in the water or get washed up on shore. Once the tentacles make contact with the skin, they produce a very bad sting. Rubbing or rinsing with water will worsen the situation. Flush or soak the area continuously with vinegar, for about 30 minutes, apply a 1% Hydrocortisone cream and seek medical attention. Mosquito and Sandfly Bites: The most effective repellent is DEET (diethyltoluamide) in a concentration of at least 20%. Newer alternatives recommended by the CDC (Centers for Disease Control) include Picaridin and Oil of Lemon Eucalyptus. Sea Urchins Spine Punctures: An echinoderm with long black spines. If the spines are protruding from your skin, try to carefully remove them, but if they are beneath the skin DO NOT try to remove them. Soak the affected area in warm water at about 45°C for 30 minutes and seek medical attention.

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Canon overlooking Scarborough Harbor

dive into history By Rick Haupt Photos by Sylvia Krueger oceansdiscovery.com

Imagine Tobago on a bright spring morning 333 years ago. It was Ash Wednesday, March 3, 1677. The rising sun has just about touched the hilltops in the east and some of its luminous fingers were eagerly creeping towards the half shadows of Roodklyp Bay, scaring away rapidly the remnants of the night. It was going to be one of those wonderful, almost cloudless mornings, caressed by a slight southeasterly breeze, the azure sky above the harbour dotted by a flock of sea gulls gliding carelessly through the clear air towards the refuge of lush green mangroves fringing the shores. And yet, this serene tropical scenario shattered in an instant, turning into a blazing inferno as fourteen French and thirteen Dutch war ships opened their gun-port hatches, brought their cannons in position and under deafening thunder hurled over eight hundred glowing-hot iron balls, in four minute broadside intervals, at each othersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; ships. The shore batteries of the defenders and the field cannons of the French landing troops joined this hell fire of destruction. The entire bay was soon covered with a billowing carpet of dark acid smoke that almost muffled the howling of flying cannonballs and the horrible screams of the dying and maimed. This violent battle, carried out at point blank range, continued until sunset. By nightfall, only seven ships were still afloat, badly damaged. Twenty war ships burned to the waterline, grounded or sank to the bottom of the harbour. Nearly 2500 people, including 300 women and children, lost their lives.

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History

Mortar in front of Fort George Museum

It all began in March 1676, as a Dutch fleet of thirteen warships, commanded by Vice Admiral Jacob Binckes, arrived in the Caribbean and made a series of successful attacks on French possessions. This resulted in the capture of the colony of Cayenne and the island of Marie Galante, both places yielding rich booty. Never before had Dutch naval power been so dominant in the Caribbean; Britain was too busy rebuilding its shattered fleets. Binckes knew that he needed a strong base from which to operate, and he selected Roodklyp Bay in Tobago. Subsequently, the Dutch fleet arrived there on June 23, 1676 and concentrated activities began. Prisoners taken at Cayenne and Marie Galante were quickly

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put to work to reinforce the fortress and shore batteries, while all ships were thoroughly repaired, refitted and prepared for war. French Vice Admiral Comte Jean D‘Estrées sailed from Brest in November 1676, with ten war ships and four smaller vessels. His directives were, among others, to recapture Cayenne and Marie Galante, and then to seek out the Dutch fleet and destroy it. The French fleet proceeded to sail for Tobago and arrived there on February 19, 1677, anchoring at Palmisto Bay. D‘Estrées began immediately to make preparations to attack the Dutch fortress by land and sea. What followed was one of the most ferocious sea battles in history. The aftermath of the battle saw the Dutch

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still in possession of their fortress, so one could argue that the victory should be awarded to the Dutch, yet the price they paid was high, too high. Many defenders were dead or wounded. Almost all of their women and children burned to death on the supply ships the Dutch commander put them on to keep them safe, a grave mistake as it turned out. But the French were in bad shape too, having lost all but four ships, which barely made it out to sea. With their badly damaged ships, they limped to Grenada, then a French colony, and after a crude refit they finally arrived in France in June 1677. The French King, understandably, was not amused having lost some of his biggest war ships. But it was far from over yet. On December 6 of that year, D’Estrées returned to Tobago

History

17th century painting of brutal sea battle, mainly Dutch ships

with seventeen war ships, eager to finish the job. After all, his reputation was on the line. After a few days of preparations on December 10 the famous French engineer De Combes aimed a ship-mounted mortar at the fortress and fired the first one of his newly developed firebombs, which overshot; the next shot fell short but the third firebomb exploded on the path to the fort’s gun powder magazine. The gigantic blast that followed killed Vice-Admiral Binckes and all but one officer as they were having lunch in the room above the gun powder magazine. Most of the fortress was destroyed with over 250 defenders dead, the rest wounded – the war for Tobago was over. King Louis XIV was so overjoyed by the news that he ordered to have a special medal cast in commemoration of this great victory. French Victory Medal 1677 – The medal can be seen at the Tobago Museum at Fort George. Oceans Discovery Tobago Limited first heard about this captivating event from Kevin Kenny, a local tourism expert, environmentalist and director of both the Trinidad Hotel Association and the Caribbean Hotel Association. The story has all the makings of a blockbuster: exotic location, fascinating historical characters, heroic men and women, the thrill of victory and the agony of defeat. But the company’s intention to create a sustainable and locally owned international documentary feature about the 1677 battles would not have been possible without the support and assistance of the Tobago House of Assembly, the Tourism Development Company and the Trinidad & Tobago Film Company and other local companies and organisations. The upcoming film also has received great attention overseas, especially from Proman AG Switzerland and Proman AG (Trinidad) Ltd, which has taken great interest in the heritage of Tobago by becoming the main patron for this project. This non-intrusive diving and film operation in Scarborough

Medal cast in France in commemoration of the French victory over the Dutch in Tobago 1677, issued by King Louis IV (Front & Back)

Harbour will be carried out with Quad4 underwater cameras and other highly sophisticated equipment, assisted by the Coast Guard and local dive operators. And when finished, the feature documentary is sure to bring international exposure that will distinguish Tobago from other tourist destinations and directly benefit the fastest growing segment of the entire tourism market - the diving industry.

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watersports Sylvia Krueger

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By Rick Haupt Photos by Sylvia Krueger oceansdiscovery.com

diving

Diving is, by its very nature, a sensual experience. Drifting effortlessly along breathtaking mazes of corals, walls and boulders, combined with the intellectual fascination of meeting and studying amazing underwater creatures does induce emotional highs. No, these lines are not intended as an advertisement for the likes of Bali, the Red Sea or Cozumel; they describe the exciting but still somewhat elusive underwater world of Tobago. More than fifty dive sites, offered by about a dozen very knowledgeable dive-shop operators, are waiting to be explored; some of these sites have rather curious names like Washaroo, Japanese Gardens, London Bridge, Lucifer’s Bay, Kariwak, Culloden or Ketchup Reef. But besides those dive enthusiasts who enjoy encounters with sea turtles, stingrays, the occasional hammerhead shark, moray eels and a healthy assortment of tropical fish, there appears to be another breed of divers heading for this island. There are those involved in scientific research, while others are just eager to add another unusual creature to the photo libraries on their home pages. They arrive on the dive boat armed with digital cameras in bulky underwater housings with dome ports the size of dinner plates and strobe lights on multiple expandable arms; in short, a challenge for every boat captain having to stow away additional and very fragile equipment in an already crowded boat. But as usual the typical Caribbean coolness prevails with a pleasant “no problem”. Slowly the word is spreading that in Tobago there is more to see underwater than “just” an impressive variety of fish, sponges and corals. These visitors, it seems, are on a mission, a mission to explore the previously more neglected parts of Tobago’s underwater scenery; sandy patches between reefs, mangroves and yes, turtle grass too.

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Diving For a macro photographer or “muck diver” as some want to be called nowadays, this carpet of lush green sea grass is pure paradise. These thickly packed beds of ribbon-shaped leaves are home to thousands of incredible creatures; crabs, sand divers, shrimp, sea urchins, eels, star fish, and a vast array of snails and worms. Many juvenile reef fish such as parrotfish, surgeonfish, angelfish, goatfish, trunkfish, hogfish and even seahorses spend part of their lives between the leaves of sea grass plants. Some of the more extensive sea grass meadows are found in Bon Accord Lagoon, Petit Trou Lagoon and Kilgwyn Bay and they all are closely associated with the adjacent coral reefs and mangrove swamps, making them an excellent choice to look for some really fascinating life forms. The Leopard Flatworm (Pseudoceros pardalis) certainly is one of the most colorful and interesting of this species. Their bodies are covered with very fine hair allowing them to glide smoothly over the ocean floor. Having bilateral symmetry the flatworm moves by flexing its layers of muscles. Like all flatworms it does not have eyes; instead, this delicate creature is equipped with light sensitive sensors allowing movements either towards or away from rays of light. They feed off of injured or dead fish, moss animals and soft corals. Another absolutely amazing attribute of this animal is that it can feed by absorbing nutrients right through its skin. When disturbed, it uses its bilateral symmetry to swim away in undulating movements. Secretary Blennies (Acanthemblemaria maria) live very often in abandoned wormholes in coral. Having great vision, they spend their days with their heads lurking out from a hole watching closely everything that moves in the neighborhood. These little beauties, measuring barely an inch, spend all day feeding on plankton and every time food passes by, they shoot out of their homes, snap the food and return, much too fast for an eye to follow. This tiny fish is one of the most fascinating creatures to watch. Another one of nature’s grand creations is the Magnificent Urchin (Astropyga magnifica). It is undoubtedly one of the most stunning Echinoderms in the sea. The spines, arranged around its body in a radial pattern, are striped in reddish or purplish colours, measuring roughly 10-12 inches. This rare species can be found on sandy substrates or like this one amidst turtle grass. It mainly consumes a variety of brown and red algae and is visible during day or night. It moves very little so there is a good chance to meet this beauty again on the next dive. As the day drifts to dusk, we are sitting on the veranda where our dive suits hang out to dry in the gentle evening breeze, philosophising about all the exciting creatures we had the luck to meet today. And while we watch the moon creeping across a deep purple sky crowded with twinkling stars, it’s hard to imagine that it can get any better than this. The Magnificent Urchin Sylvia Krueger

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Diving Island Girl Sail Charters E-mail: mystic@tstt.net.tt Tel: (868) 620-SAIL www.sailtobago.com Come aboard Island Girl for an unforgettable cruise along the coast of Tobago, filled with snorkeling and sun tanning at secluded beaches, an open bar, snacks and our sumptuous buffet lunch. Or…sail into the sunset and rock to a sweet selection of Caribbean music on our idyllic sunset cruise, all the while served by our courteous and professional crew. This will be the most memorable day of your holiday. We also do private cruises.”

Scuba Adventure Safari

Pigeon Point Road, Crown Point, Tobago Grafton Beach Resort, Black Rock, Tobago Tel: (868) 660-7767 or (868) 639-8729 Fax: (868) 631-8501 E-mail: info@divetobago.com www.divetobago.com For the most spectacular scuba diving, watersports and eco-safaris in the Caribbean! We offer safety, high-quality customer service and fun fun fun!!! We specialise in dive safaris to Tobago’s most exciting dive sites. We also offer the complete range of PADI certification courses, from half-day introductory courses & Open Water certificates all the way to Divemaster! We offer a wide range of motorised & non-motorised watersports and instructed watersports lessons.

Frontier Divers Ltd.

Sandy Point Beach Club Crown Point, Tobago, West Indies Tel: (868) 631-8138 Fax: (868) 631-8138 Mobile: (868)638-7210 E-mail: dougdives@tstt.net.tt www.frontierdiverstt.com Frontier Divers Ltd, one of the only locally owned shops on the island and PADI dive facility, offers a wide range of undersea adventure options and PADI certification courses. Whatever your experience level, Frontier Divers can help you take it to the next one and push your diving frontier further. Our dive shop is located at Sandy Point Beach Club—an RCI resort on the southwest tip of Tobago—but Frontier Divers will pick up and drop off divers from any other location.

Hard Play Fishing Charters Limited

Captain Gerard “Frothy” and Teija de Silva Tel: (868) 639–7108 Fax: (868) 639–7788 Mobile: Captain “Frothy”: 682–3474 (682-FISH), Teija: 689–4006 Email: hardplay@tstt.net.tt Website: www.hardplay.net Hard Play offers world-class sports fishing opportunities. Captain “Frothy” and crew have unmatched local and international tournament records. Full-day offshore tours are recommended to target blue and white marlin, sailfish, tuna, dolphin and wahoo. Near the reef, a variety of mackerel, jack, grouper, snapper, shark and barracuda can be caught on half-day or full-day coastal tours. They also offer light tackle and flyfishing for tarpon, bonefish, snook and permit.

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The Tobago

Tobago Carnival Regatta 2011 A classic sailorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; paradise, the beautiful Heritage Park at Pigeon Point in Tobago will be transformed into an action packed arena two weeks before Carnival on February 18 to 20, 2011. The Tobago Carnival Regatta 2011 has taken on a life of its own, with younger, more radical participants lining up to take part annually. Kite and wind surfers from as far as Europe are turning their heads toward Pigeon Point as news of the Tobago Carnival Regatta gets around. The wind conditions on this beach make it a dream destination for wind surfers and kite boarders, and the sheltered lagoon provides a perfect environment for more inexperienced sportsmen. Next year is still shaping up to be a bumper year for sailing in Tobago even as the larger, more traditional sail boats opt out of the regatta. These larger craft will host their own regatta in Trinidad next year, using the traditional marinas to moor their boats. Not deterred by this development, the organisers have concentrated their energies on the smaller crafts, like the Optimists 420 and Bum Boats categories. And over 50 children from south Trinidad will be joining the kids

by Niki Borde

from Tobago in what is the largest fleet of young sailors to launch in Tobago since 2001. The Tobago Aquatic Association has been working very hard to build their Bum Boat fleet and will be launching a much larger and new flotilla, with new and exciting courses that will see greater local participation. But all eyes will be focused on the wind surfers and kite boarders who have delighted the judges and beachgoers alike over the last two years. The organisers already have confirmation from a Barbadian crew who has pledged to return in larger numbers to challenge the locals for the wind surfing and kite boarding trophy. But they will have to raise their standards to confront teams from St. Lucia, Bonaire, Europe and the USA, who are bringing in teams after months of training. The organisers from Tobago Regattas Limited are very pleased to have teamed up with the Tobago House of Assembly, the Tourism Development Company and the Sport Company of Trinidad and Tobago, who have all supported the regatta from its inception. With a few new developments up their sleeves, the organisers promise an even wilder more exciting competition. And as word of the Caribbeanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most radical regatta continues to spread, all signs point to the Tobago Carnival Regatta 2011 becoming a true sailorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; bonanza.

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Christian Hadeed

The Tobago

Tight Lines: Sport Fishing in Trinidad and Tobago by Keith Lewis Nearly everyone in the Caribbean sport fishing fraternity knows that Trinidad and Tobago is home to world-class fishing grounds, both inshore and offshore. More recently, and to the credit of the diligent Trinidad and Tobago Game Fishing Association (TTGFA), this recognition has spread to the international sport fishing enthusiasts in a big way. The dedicated work of the executive of the TTGFA, along with great contributions from the Tobago International Game Fishing Tournament (TGFT) Committee and support from the Tourism Development Company of Trinidad and Tobago (TDC), has seen the popularity and success of sport fishing reach a new high in 2010. Sport fishing usually focuses on the species caught in any favourite fishing region, and their average size and frequency. In that respect, it would be easy to simply refer to the 800 lb blue marlins or the 180 lb tarpon caught in T&T that have shattered regional records in recent years. However, what is equally impressive and noteworthy about the Trinidad and Tobago fishing is the dedicated field of characters that take to the sea on a regular basis and make up the membership of the TTGFA. Set on a foundation of international achievements like Hugh ‘HJ’ Gransaull’s

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world record 890 lb blue fin tuna in 1971 and the persistent conservation work in the early years by Sid Johnson, the TTGFA has developed firm recognition from the International Game Fishing Association. Building on that foundation is perhaps the single most recognized sport fishing captain in the southern Caribbean, Captain Gerard ‘Frothy’ de Silva. Frothy has dedicated his life to sport fishing and has a resume of achievements that would make even the most seasoned captain jealous. Through hard work and dedication, Frothy has built a clientele of the rich and famous. He has won just about every regional tournament there is. And he has competed in the IGFA Offshore World Championships several times. His most recent endeavour was the purchase and charter of the famous Pesca Grossa vessel in Madeira, Portugal, which complements his fleet of local charter boats quite nicely. The local talent pool of top class captains and anglers is not limited to just Frothy. Captains Jonathan ‘Dellas’ de la Rosa and Gary ‘Gaff’ Story are proven experts at the local fishery and make a living putting their charter guests on the fish day in, day out. They have both been featured in international fishing publications

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

for their skill and achievements. More recently, young crack-shot angler Michael de Freitas represented Trinidad and Tobago and his crew of vessel Mapepire at the IGFA Inshore World Championships in Florida. He was invited to compete in this prestigious tournament after winning best overall angler at the TDC Tarpon Thunder Tournament 2009 and placed fourth overall in a field of 35 of the Best Inshore Anglers of the world. The TDC Tarpon Thunder Tournament is a character in itself that sets T&T apart from any other Caribbean destination for fishing. No other island has such an abundance of the Tarpon species or such a well-organised event to take advantage of the great fishing. Recognised and renowned by the executive of the IGFA, this event is an official qualifying event for the IGFA Inshore World Championships. The intense action over the 3-day event rivals that of its international counterparts. Yet, the incredible island setting and great Caribbean vibe sets it well apart from the others and makes it the preferred destination for competitive international anglers looking to qualify for the IGFA Inshore World Championships, or simply try their luck in a fight with the great ‘Silver King’. Courtesy Caribbeanwaterman.com

experience

The Tobago by Walter Alibey

DeviNath Photography

Carib Beer Great Race

Great Race B class winner Heatwave. The boat also achieved the event’s fastest time to Tobago

There are many reasons why tourists visit our beautiful twin island Republic of Trinidad and Tobago. But if you are into water sports, buckle your seatbelts and get ready for the popular Carib Beer Great Race, which is usually held in September every year. The Carib Beer Great Race is the longest consecutive boat racing event in the Caribbean and is sponsored by Carib Beer. It features a daring 93-mile drive by various race-boat owners from the main island Trinidad to the capital city of Scarborough in Tobago, which usually takes just over one hour. The event is organised by the Trinidad and Tobago Power Boat Association (TTPBA) and has been dubbed ‘Carnival in September’, because wild celebrations start almost as soon as the boats begin to cross the finish line. Thousands of supporters throng the starting point at the Hyatt Regency Trinidad Hotel in Port of Spain; they come to witness the start and make their predictions about the possible winner. In the middle of the race, hovering helicopters provide television, radio and newspaper coverage of the event. At the end, there are thousands more waiting at the finish line to give the racers ‘picong’ (light comical banter) and most importantly, for the mini-carnival that gets underway soon after, where racers and spectators alike party well into the night. The race is contested in six different categories, and approximately 30 boats take the starter’s checkered flag for

the dash to the sister-isle. For instance, there’s the popular M Class in which Ken Charles’ Mr. Solo, a 16-time winner of the event, is the lone competitor. There are also C, A, S, D and P classes, and competitors include Team Rage and Team Rush (C Class), White Heat (B Class), Rite Formula and Hero III (S Class), Chris Gone Wild, Royal Flush and Too High. These categories are determined by engine power and boat speed as well as boat length. Heatwave, a category ‘B’ boat which was driven by Gary Johnson and included throttleman James Hadeed, is a 29foot Extreme mono-hull that boasts 850 hp engine power. This year, the brightly coloured yellow catamaran Mr. Solo failed to get out of the channel of choppy waters between the islands (nicknamed ‘the bocas’) and allowed the ambitious Heatwave to race past, earning the fastest time to Tobago. Interestingly, in 1982 Jimmy Hadeed, father of James Hadeed, also won the Great Race’s fastest time. This year’s race also ironically saw other favourites experiencing mechanical problems; Team Rage and Team Rush in the C Class, like Mr. Solo, could not make their way out of the bocas. President of the TTPBA Garth Marshall confirmed that invitations are usually extended to international racing enthusiasts. “The problem is that our race is held during the same time the racing seasons of the United States and England are held, so we hardly get anyone to participate,” Marshall said. So to beef up the range of competitors, the Carib Beer Great Race is expected to be rescheduled from September to another annual date. Interested entrants can visit ttpba.net or contact the Trinidad and Tobago Powerboat Association at 620-9066 for more information.

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Patricia Lewis

beaches Tobago’s beaches vary widely in character depending on whether they are located on the wilder Atlantic coast or the generally calmer Caribbean coast. At the western end, Lambeau beach is a safe family beach that is also used a lot for wind sports. Travelling to the eastern end, you will find the well-equipped King’s Bay; Speyside, which is protected by encircling reefs; and the islands of Little Tobago and Goat Island. On the other hand, the leeward Caribbean coast boasts at least thirteen beaches, but a few are only accessible by boat. The most westerly and busiest beaches are Store Bay and our famous Pigeon Point, both right in the heart of the developed tourism area of Crown Point and Bon Accord. Travelling north-east, you meet tiny No Man’s Land, accessible only by boat; then little-used Buccoo Beach near the famous goat racing track, and Mt. Irvine Bay with its hotel beach facility as well as a public facility with a bar, restaurant and toilets. The eastern side of Mt. Irvine Bay (also called Little Courland Bay) is a favourite spot for surfers between November and March. Still heading east, you will come to Stonehaven Bay with hotels like Grafton Beach and Le Gran Courlan, and then Great Courland Bay, better known as Turtle Beach because leatherback turtles nest there annually. Finally, there is Arnos Vale Bay with a small hotel of the same name and some excellent snorkelling. Continue driving north-east and you’ll find the fishing village of Castara Bay, followed by Englishman’s Bay (once nominated as Best Caribbean Beach) which is popular but never too crowded. A little further up the coast is another fishing village: Parlatuvier Bay with its long jetty and good anchorage, followed by Bloody Bay. That leaves only the most easterly beach; Charlotteville’s Man O’ War Bay is large and deep and got its name during the days of European colonisation. All of Tobago’s beaches are public and open to locals and visitors, but it is always wise to use the more popular spots unless you are being taken on a tour by a certified guide or tour operator.

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The lovely sand spit known as No Man’s Land is located within Buccoo Reef National Park, and is only accessible by boat unless you get permission to drive through Golden Grove Estate. The beach partially encircles Bon Accord Lagoon which is surrounded by 60 acres of mangrove that provide sanctuary for marine life, water birds, snakes and crabs. The famous Buccoo Reef lies to the north and Pigeon Point to the west. No Man’s Land is a popular beach barbeque spot with white sand, a scattering of trees and the shallow water is safe for swimming.

Bacolet

Bacolet Bay is located just north of Scarborough on the Atlantic coast and is 150 m long. Public access is through a narrow road used by locals, and many surfers who frequent this beach. The beach is wide with fine, medium-brown sand. Beach bar and other facilities belong to the Blue Haven Hotel.

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Stephen Broadbridge

Mt Irvine

Close to the hotel and golf course, the conditions at this attractive beach vary from calm and ideal for snorkelling in the summer to pounding surf from November to April, making it world-famous amongst surfers. A restaurant, bar, changing facilities and washrooms are all available, as is water sports equipment for rent. Particular caution should be exercised when swimming off the east-west section of the beach, visible from the road. The northern section offers the amenities and recreational facilities.

Stephen Broadbridge

No Man’s Land

Patricia Lewis

It is popularly called Grafton Beach, after one of the hotels located there, but its real name is Stonehaven Bay, just west of Black Rock. At low tide, you can scramble over the stones that give the bay its name, or swim in the more gentle surf at the Black Rock end, sheltered by the promontory on which Fort Bennett is built. There is shade under the sea grape trees if you like a natural ambiance, or try Grafton Hotel’s Buccaneers Beach Bar mid-way down the beach with its umbrella-shaded tables on a deck above the sand.

Patricia Lewis

Stonehaven Bay

Patricia Lewis

Dawn Glaisher

Beaches

Man O’ War Bay

Located at the northernmost tip of Tobago, this long, sandy stretch of beach is overlooked by the fishing community of Charlotteville and boasts an excellent natural harbour, fishing and swimming area. It’s also excellent for snorkelling and scuba diving. Lifeguards are on duty and there are changing rooms and parking facilities. This beach is also a turtle nesting site. Mooring for yachts is mainly at Pirates Bay, at the eastern end.

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Pigeon Point

Pigeon Point Heritage Park is Tobago’s premiere beach location with its iconic jetty and thatched hut, and our only beach with the soft white sand and amazing turquoise waters of the Buccoo Reef. Located on the quieter Caribbean Sea side of the island, this is a perfect beach for families, but also for wind-surfing and kite-boarding within the protected waters of the reef. Looking west, it is also fabulous for sunset photography through the coconut trees. Reef, dive and fishing tours leave from the jetty. The entry fee is TT$18, which allows access to food, drink, toilet facilities and a selection of thatched huts for shelter.

T&T Fashion Week 2010: Target Tobago by Rosemary Stone Close your eyes for one moment, and let your imagination take you to the beach at Pigeon Point Heritage Park at sunset. Envision an ultramodern, metallic dome accented by a centre ramp; hundreds of chairs set among coconut trees draped with yards and yards of fluttering fabric. While cameras flash, the audience applauds long and lustily as Tobagoborn designers display their collections for the first time at the Tobago division of Fashion Week Trinidad and Tobago (FWTT3). FWTT3 took place from May 29 to June 6, 2010; the annual event has hitherto been confined to shows in the nation’s capital city of Port of Spain. But in an unprecedented move for their third annual event, FWTT3 opened their largest T&T production in Tobago at the end of May 2010, revealing the talent and beauty of that island to the world while providing a platform to stimulate a true Tobagonian fashion identity. To this end, the FWTT3 team created a cooperative between the Tobago House of Assembly, the Tourism Development Company of Trinidad and Tobago and several other government ministries in an effort to facilitate development and provide exposure for talented designers, models and all the attendant tradesmen. Organisers also broadened the FWTT3 agenda by utilising Tobago’s attractions to create a fashion showplace as well as a backdrop for other promotional shoots and events which are now featured in worldwide press, magazines, television and on the internet. The slogan “Crusoe Island” was used to woo fashion and culture buffs, art enthusiasts, film scouts and fashion house buyers who seek to find new destinations in their search to develop and to excite the rest of the world. Visiting fashion editors were treated to extensive tours of Tobago and wined and dined at the island’s most interesting restaurants courtesy the Tobago House of Assembly during the day and then chauffeur-driven to the late evening shows at Pigeon Point Heritage Park (PPHP). There, Tobago designers took precedence; some of the most attractive collections were designed by Juliet Bernard of Krystal Fashions; Ashley Christmas of Earth Member4Life; Charmaine Spicer of Spice Rack Designs; Jesse Chapman of Crotchet Fashions by JES; Lydia Arnaud-Lawrence of Nianay; and Amril Douglas with Amril’s Fashions. More established fashion houses like Radical Resort, Mille Wearable Art and Perez Designs also took the runway with resort lines, adding extra touches through their creative presentations to the evening’s events. Sandra Hordatt’s new swimwear line and Simon Duncan’s Caribbean Collection especially made huge waves among attendees. Look out for an equally enchanting FWTT4, which is scheduled to take place from May 26 to 31, 2011. It will definitely include the idyllic backdrop and talented designers of Tobago. Rosemarie Stone is the Founding member of FWTT and former fashion editor.

Sancho Francisco

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Richard ffrench:

The Birdman of Trinidad and Tobago (1929-2010)

Keown Thomas

by Graham White

Copper-rumped Hummingbird: A species restricted to northern South America and abundant in residential and forested areas of Trinidad and Tobago.

Look at any literature on the birds of Trinidad and Tobago and the name Richard ffrench is bound to pop up. His name has become almost inseparable from local ornithology and much of what we know about our avifauna is due to his efforts. Richard ffrench came to Trinidad in 1958 as a scholar fresh from Oxford. He taught English, Latin, History and Music at the St. Peters School in Point-a-Pierre but studied birds in his spare time. At that time, the study of birds was largely for the professional biologist; the available books were inaccessible and lacked the high quality illustrations which we take for granted today. The first two books of note were Leotaud’s 1866 account of Oiseaux de l’ile de la Trinidad and Junge and Mees, The Avifauna of Trinidad and Tobago published in 1958. It was not until 1961, when Geoffrey Herklots published Birds of Trinidad and

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Tobago, that there was a book that hobbyist birdwatchers could use. Herklots’ book was however, poorly illustrated and better suited to identifying museum specimens than living birds. In 1973 Richard published A Guide to the Birds of Trinidad and Tobago. This book was vastly superior; the information was almost encyclopaedic. Even today, ffrench’s book is considered a classic among bird books. ffrench had done a thorough review of each species’ taxonomy, habitat, status, voice, nesting and breeding, presented through professional illustrations and an easy-to-follow layout. The text’s only weakness was that in order to keep down the cost of publishing, not all local species were illustrated in the book. A second edition was published in 1991 and the third edition will be published in 2011 which fortunately includes illustrations of all species previously left out. ffrench lamented that T&T nationals lacked interest in birds and recognised that the cost of his book was a deterrent. In 1986 he wrote a smaller, inexpensive book of the more common species and illustrated them with photographs. ffrench took his own photographs since bird photographers like Roger Neckles, Theodore Ferguson and the late Ronald Barrow were not yet available. A second edition of this more popular book was published in 2004 with photographs by Roger Neckles. ffrench’s contributions were not limited to birds. He assisted

Maria Nunes

in drafting legalisation that protected wildlife and habitats. He contributed to the establishment of the Asa Wright Nature Centre and Pointe-a-Pierre Wildfowl Trust, wrote newspaper articles on natural history and contributed greatly to the Trinidad and Tobago Field Naturalists’ Club. ffrench became president of the club in 1965 but more importantly he was the editor of the Club’s scientific journal Living World from 1965 to 1971, and a member of the editorial committee for a further eleven years. I recall one instance when ffrench confessed that he had considered writing a book about butterflies of Trinidad and Tobago. “You don’t know anything about butterflies!” was the response. “Yes”, he said, “but I know about books”. As a result of his work, he accumulated a series of honours. In 1984 the Government of Trinidad and Tobago awarded him the Chaconia Medal for his contributions to Natural History and he was made a Member of the Order of the British Empire (M.B.E.) by her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II for Cultural and Educational work in Trinidad. The Society for Caribbean Ornithology honoured him with an award of distinction. In 2002 the University of the West Indies published the monograph entitled Studies in Trinidad and Tobago Ornithology honouring Richard ffrench. Despite his success, ffrench never lost his humility. He was always willing to listen to the experiences or young naturalists, however insignificant the experience may have seemed. He encouraged the person to take notes, especially in the field and write articles on their observations. He set the example by publishing over 55 articles on birds in the Clubs Journal and many more in other journals. It is not only his written contributions which stand the test of time. When resident in Trinidad, and being the authority of birds in Trinidad, he would often received records for birdwatchers who claim to have seen rare or new birds for the country. To address this he formed the Trinidad and Tobago Rare Bird Committee in 1996 to adjudicate records and maintain an official list of the birds of Trinidad and Tobago. ffrench was a member of the committee until shortly before his death on May 10, 2010. He will be missed by friends of all ages in Trinidad and Tobago.

Martin Farinha

Yellow-hooded Blackbird: An abundant resident of freshwater wetlands in Trinidad.

Bananaquit: A common resident found in all habitats of Trinidad and Tobago.

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CaféMoka Gallery

The Tobago

Tobago Festivals

by Desiree Seebaran

In case you were thinking that the sleepy sister isle of Tobago can’t match Trinidad for Carnivallike excitement, there are four annual Tobago events that will change your mind. Whereas Trini festivals tend toward the modern and ultra-sophisticate, Tobagonians celebrate differently, with simpler, more pastoral pleasures that don’t necessarily require you to dress up to enjoy.

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Goat and Crab Races At Easter you can catch the hugely popular Goat and Crab Races, held in the Buccoo and Mt. Pleasant villages. Yes, you read right—goat and crab racing. Most are skeptical at first, but these unique sports can become very addictive. You may find yourself cheering your favourite ruminant or crustacean as it races along the grass-covered track. Like horse racing, there are goat owners, goat jockeys, crab owners and crab jockeys. Thankfully, unlike horse racing, the jockeys don’t ride the goats and crabs: they run alongside them. Visitors have been known to jump in with both feet and help the jockeys urge their chosen racing crabs to victory. Most times there

are no set lanes to run in, so goats, crabs and jockeys jostle each other to keep their lead. May the best animal win! The Tobago Heritage Festival is easily the biggest and most feted of Tobago’s events. The annual two-week eruption of cultural and historical presentations is usually held from July to early August. ‘Heritage’ as many locals call it, celebrates the traditional customs of a largely Africaninfluenced Tobago, in the dances, music, religion and rituals and food that Tobagonians claim as their birthright. This year, Heritage Festival was held from July 16 to August 1 and themed “Tracing Footprints” to honour the achievements and contributions made by many ancestors and persons today to Tobago’s cultural development. The festival travels throughout the island, touching several villages with its celebratory spirit, including Belle Garden, Roxborough, Charlotteville and Les Coteaux. Each village boasts a signature event. For example, the Ole Time Wedding usually takes place in the village of Moriah. The wedding reenactment is a cultural microcosm of an earlier time where the dress, attitudes and morals of the Europeans were actively blended into the day-to-day life of Tobagonians. Values like purity and fidelity, as well as practices to promote the fertility of both bride and groom play an important part in the day’s rituals. Women wear floor-length colourful gowns, and the men are outfitted in formal scissor-tailed suits, reminiscent of England’s Regency period. The bride (who wears white) and the groom, lead a procession to the reception site, doing an elaborate heel-and-toe walk ritual. There, guests are treated to a proper feast and dance the jig and reel long into the night. The Sea Festival in Black Rock, Wake and Bongo in Whim and Charlotteville, Roxborough’s Ms. Heritage Personality, the Junior Heritage Festival and the ongoing Food Fair are other festival hotspots to hit. The Sea Festival commemorates the slaves’ emancipation and their subsequent initiatives to find another source of income from fishing. It also celebrates the methods by which the former slaves developed strong community spirit in order to survive. During the festival, participants recreate the time when entire fishing villages would turn out to ‘knit’ (mend) or ‘shoot’ (throw out) the seine or net. Persons learn the old ways of preserving fish, and are taught communal morals when everyone gets some of the fish that’s caught. Ms. Heritage Personality is not a beauty competition but rather a contest to see which participant can most aptly demonstrate aspects of Tobago’s traditional customs. Typically, teenaged or young adult contestants are given a theme upon which they build a presentation, complete with props and costumes. The Wake and Bongo honours the mystical side of Tobagonian culture, filled with rituals that contain both Christian and African religious elements. It is one of the rituals that it shares with Trinidad, although each island celebrates it differently. In Tobago, a wake is a night ceremony held when someone has died. Relatives and friends of the deceased stay “awake” all night to honour the dead. Christian hymns are sung and feasting (a significant African-derived custom) is an important element of the event. The bongo comes after the deceased is buried. It leans more heavily on the African beliefs. For example, participants

Stephen Broadbridge

The Tobago Heritage Festival

believe that life and death are very closely knitted and the bong is a way to ease the deceased’s rite of passage to the other side. It is also intended to liven up the ‘dead’ house by encouraging grieving relatives to enjoy life. Vulgar songs and dances intended cause laughter and to stimulate sexual arousal characterise the bongo—the purpose is to usher in new life by exciting participants to intercourse, which should lead to birth. Tobago Fest is a mid-September, mini-Carnival masquerade, where you can enjoy many elements of what you may have missed in Trinidad earlier in the year. Bands from both islands crowd the streets for ‘night mas’, calypso shows and the sound of sweet steel pan. Tobago has its own version of ‘ole mas’ (traditional mas characters) including speech bands, who wander from house to house with gossip, songs and jokes, often done in embellished European accents.

The Tobago Blue Food Festival

The Tobago Blue Food Festival is another important Tobago attraction if you’re hankering for more local flavour to tickle your taste buds. This all-day festival is held around October every year, and in 2010 it was held on October 17. For Tobagonians and Trinis, “blue food” can mean any starchy, edible root crop used in local cuisine—cassava, yam and plantain (not a root) included. But the term was specifically derived from use of the tuber of the taro plant, or dasheen as it’s locally called. When boiled, this good-for-you source of complex carbohydrates develops a blue colour depending on the variety; hence the idiom “blue food.” The Blue Food Festival is an opportunity for local chefs and cooks to earn bragging rights on their innovative preparation of the dasheen with stewed meats, in desserts or by itself. Prizes are awarded for most original dish, most innovative dish and to the participant with the most dishes, among other categories. The event is traditionally held at the Bloody Bay Recreational Grounds and hosted by the village councils of L’anse Fourmi, Bloody Bay and Parlatuvier along with the Department of Tourism in the Tobago House of Assembly.

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ouring and sights 158

‘London Bridge’ near St. Giles island CaféMoka Gallery

touring and sights Tobago’s Main Ridge Forest Reserve is the oldest protected nature reserve in the Western Hemisphere. It was declared a reserve in 1764 under British rule. The island, with its natural forest, lush vegetation and beautiful waterfalls, is therefore no stranger to ecotourism. Many visitors seek to reconnect with nature through diving, birding, hiking or simply touring the island with its magnificent vistas which vary from the rugged Atlantic coast to the scenic Caribbean coast. The Tobago Museum, the many forts that have resulted from Tobago’s varied history and the picturesque towns tell the tales of many peoples who have settled and made Tobago home. Save our Turtles Tobago (SOS) was formed in an effort to stem poaching of the endangered leatherback, hawksbill and green marine turtles and patrol the beaches most frequented by the leatherback turtles during their nesting season from March to September. Even over-enthusiastic ecotourists can disturb the leatherback turtles laying their eggs and trained guides enhance this incredible experience for both visitors and mothers alike (see page 162 for more information on SOS). So follow our guide on page 162 and start your tour of Tobago in Lowlands at the south-west tip of the island on the Atlantic or windward coast. Continue east past the capital city of Scarborough, bustling with daily activity, but do take in its museum and historic fort, before driving up the windward road to Speyside. Then on to Charlotteville, the island’s most northern village; it has a view that will take your breath away as you descend from the hilltop. See Man O’ War Bay in all its beauty. Return to Crown Point, located near the airport and where most tourist activity is centred via the leeward or Caribbean coast. A swim at the famous Store Bay will recharge your batteries before you head for an exotic Tobagonian cocktail while witnessing one of Tobago’s amazing sunsets.

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Martin Farinha

Tobago

Charlotteville:

Remote, Romantic, and Rustic by Louis B Homer Charlotteville is undoubtedly one of the most picturesque villages in Tobago. Its pristine beauty makes it a perfect holiday destination. Located approximately eighteen miles from Tobago’s capital, Charlotteville is the last of eighteen villages sited along the winding windward road on Tobago’s north coast. But you can’t get to Charlotteville without passing through Speyside, a small village noted for diving. Some of Speyside’s premiere diving sites include Angel Reef, Coral Gardens, and Japanese Gardens. Divers flock to see the magnificent manta ray, an exotic sea beast with an average wingspan on 2 to 4m, which often haunts the waters off Speyside. Three miles after you leave Speyside, you’ll begin the steep descent into the fishing village of Charlotteville, which is breathtaking. It’s an absurdly pretty fishing village, with its houses scattered here and there in the mountains and among verdant vegetation. Often referred to as a village in a hole, the surrounding mountains provide adequate protection from bad weather. To the south of the village lie the tranquil waters of the Caribbean, where frigate birds swoop continuously over the neighbouring Man O’ War and Pirates Bays. The two bays speak of an era when war and plunder were not unfamiliar

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to the landscape of Charlotteville. Man O’ War Bay, formerly called Jan De Moor Bay, is one of the finest natural harbours in the Caribbean. During the post-Columbian period, the bays saw native Caribs playing host to buccaneers and pirates, who used the area as a rendezvous and depot for their rich spoils of gold and silver taken from Spanish treasure ships. Over the years, it has maintained its position as a major fishing port and holiday resort. The annual Tobago International Game Fishing Tournament, now in its sixteenth year, will be held there from March 28 to 31, 2011. Scores of local and foreign boats take part in this annual event, which is an exciting opportunity to fish and enjoy what the village has to offer. Apart from being a major fishing port, it is also the venue for the annual Fishermen’s Day Fete. The fete celebrates St. Peter’s Day, which either falls on June 29, or on the Sunday preceding or following that date. Charlotteville is not only peaceful fishing and fetes. Cambleton Battery, a fort erected in 1777 to provide protection from American privateers during the American War of Independence, is of great historical importance to the island and draws many sightseers. Charlotteville also offers a wide range of activities, including fishing, snorkeling, diving, hiking in the mountains, and bird watching. But be careful that its picturesque beauty and colorful lifestyle don’t keep you longer than you planned to stay; it is a frequent observation of the locals that many visitors who plan a day’s visit to Charlotteville usually end up staying for months!

Castara:

A Tourist Paradise by Louis B. Homer Castara is a simple village on the north coast of Tobago, but this village offers its visitors a rich history, myths and a unique brand of cultural practices and traditions. Located approximately eight miles from Scarborough, its natural beauty begins with the breathtaking view of the village youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll get while descending the mountain road overlooking the village. The beach is set around a long deeply curved area surrounded by greenery from the mountain. This village is less than two centuries old, unlike other much older settlements on the island. It started after a disastrous hurricane in 1847. The hurricane was preceded by an earthquake which destroyed Lot 45, a village close to Englishmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bay, which lies to the north-east of Castara. Following the disaster, residents moved to what is called today Castara. The village has two important beaches: Castara Small Bay and Castara Big Bay. From the beach, the fast flowing Castara River leads to a magnificent waterfall. Bathing in Big Bay is relatively safe, while the reefs of Small Bay make it suitable for snorkeling. Visitors say that the air at Castara is always clean and fresh. There are no industries to pollute the environment. Farmers use only organic manure to nourish their food crops. And if noises are heard from the village, it comes from crashing waves, or from the sheep and goats tethered on the steep hillsides. These same hillsides provide a magnificent view of sea birds fluttering above the ocean. You can see large numbers of pelicans on the horizon. At Castara, fishing is the important business in the village. A wide variety of fish can be seen swimming leisurely in shallow clear crystal waters in both beaches. Among them are the indigenous colored red fish and sand fish. The sand fish has the instinctive ability to camouflage itself in the water, by merging its color with the white sand. Seine pulling on the beach is a popular activity in which visitors are invited to take part. The traditional seine is a fishing net that hangs straight down into the water, with floats at the top. Seines are the principal tool of the fisher folk at Castara. Before the seine is launched into the water, it is blessed by a pastor in a special ceremony. Apart from fishing, the village is well known for the mud ovens in which fresh bread and coconut bake are produced on a daily basis. The oven-baked bread is sold in the spacious yard close to the Anglican school, where former Prime Minister and President ANR Robinson received his early education. His long association with the village has earned him the nickname of Castara Kid. There are plans to develop a museum and Ethics Centre to honour him as an outstanding citizen. The area surrounding the school is regarded as the village centre where most social activities take place. For one week, beginning in the first week in July, the village is transformed into an open street theatre, where cultural performances and the annual harvest festival are kept. Castara is the only village on the northside road where you will find a number of guest houses on a bluff overlooking the eastern portion of the spacious beach. As a holiday resort, the village is noted for the warmth exhibited by residents. Delicious local cuisine is available in most small restaurants. Hand-crafted jewelry made from local beads and seeds are sold in small shops located on the beach. At the end of a visit, memories of Castara would be difficult to forget.

Martin Farinha

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experience

The Tobago

Atlantic coast sights Petit Trou

lagoon, wetlands with boardwalk through the mangrove, stone ruins of sugar mill on the golf course, all inside Tobago Plantations Beach and Golf Resort.

Scarborough

(capital town since 1769, pop c.25,000)

Fort King George established 1777

abandoned 1854. Remains of powder magazine, officers’ mess, old hospital, cell block and water tank. Magnificent samaan trees and palms alongside the old colonial building now the hospital.

Tobago

Museum

housed at “Officers’ Mess”, Fort King George: Monday to Friday 8 AM to 4 PM, curator Eddie Hernandez. Tel: 639-3970.

Botanic Gardens

on 17 acres accessed from the highway just east of the main traffic lights.

Old Court House dating from 1852

in James Square, upper Scarborough, used by THA. There is also an old court house in Studley Park.

Louis d’Or old French Barracks on left Les Coteaux Highland Waterfall side of main road, followed by government plant nursery.

King’s Bay Great House

with cocoa sheds, waterfall and beach facility.

Speyside Lookout

across Tyrell’s Bay to Goat Island and Little Tobago.

Little Tobago

once known as Bird of Paradise Island thanks to Sir William Ingram’s efforts to colonise those exotic birds on the island.

Goat Island once visited by Ian Fleming, creator of James Bond, an ornithologist who wrote a book on T&T birds around 1984.

(off the beaten track) after coming down the big hill into Les Coteaux, turn left, pass a lovely old church on the left and follow the paved road turning left after bridge. Park near the bridge and follow track to falls on foot.

Franklyn/ArnosValeWaterwheel

site of a sugar factory since Courlanders in 1670. Present ruins from British mill that closed in 1865. Bar and Restaurant open from 9:00 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Tel: 660-0815

Arnos Vale Hotel for bird feeding and snorkeling and Amerindian remains.

Plymouth

Fort James and mystery tombstone of Betty Stivens, 1783.

Speyside Waterwheel and Sugar Factory ruins beside the bridge Courlander Monument

on the road to Blue Waters Inn.

Flagstaff Hill Lookout used by USA during WW2. As far east as you can go!!

Caribbean coast sights Charlotteville with cocoa sheds and Fort Cambleton overlooking Man O' War Bay.

by Janis Mintiks 1978, in memory of Latvian settlers.

Courland Sugar Mill and Factory ruins in residential development.

Black Rock

old church with wood

shingle facade.

Fort Bennett

site with only two

canons.

Fort Granby on the beach shortly after Bloody Bay start of Gilpin Trail Grafton Bird Sanctuary from 1963 Studley Park quarry.

Goodwood Genesis Nature Park & Art Gallery on main road.

into the Forest Reserve, first track from Bloody Bay to Roxborough and four waterfalls along the way.

Rainbown Falls

1765.

Entrance fee TT$60 or US$10. Tel: 660-4668

Goldsborough side road leads to Rainbow Falls, but only go with a local guide.

Richmond 18th Great House. Small

Refreshments.

Century

entrance fee.

Parlatuvier small waterfall. Forest Reserve protected

Argyle Waterfall

turn left as you cross the bridge west of Roxborough. Visitors must use local guides for the twenty-minute walk to the three-tiered falls. Entrance fee TT$50. Swimming.

Cocoa Factory

in nearby cacao plantation, just past the entrance to Argyle Falls.

Roxborough capital of the northeast. Examples of colonial architecture in the Court and VAT buildings on the waterfront. Start of forest road that crosses the Main Ridge hills with a lookout mid-way.

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The Castle Museum on Kimme Drive, Mt Irvine, houses Luise Kimme’s sculptures. Rocky Point, Mt Irvine remains of

Castara small waterfall in rainy season

fort and canons on the ground.

Mt. Dillon Lookout just after Norman Parkinson’s old house

including Buccoo Marsh for bird watching, Buccoo Reef and Nylon Pool, protected marine park since 1973.

only.

Kendal Great House used by the Golden Lane THA, visible on the hillside just before Roxborough.

since

after Hurricane Flora, when owner started feeding birds who had lost their habitats.

The Witch’s Grave— Gang Gang Sara flew from Africa ate salt and put on weight so she fell from giant silk cotton trying to fly back home. Silk Cotton (Kapok Tree) in question may have been the one on left on the way down Culloden Road! Look out for the giant Silk Cotton trees with their buttress roots and thorny bark—one on the Windward Road after Roxborough, one literally on the Northside Road and one at the start of Culloden Road which goes down to Footprints. According to folklore, these trees are inhabited by “jumbies” or spirits and must never be damaged. In Suriname, the small trees are turned upside down around a village to make it invisible to attackers. Drive carefully by…

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

Buccoo Marine Park

Bon Accord lagoon, wetlands and No Man’s Land (boat access only).

Pigeon Point Heritage Park state-

owned park with white sand and turquoise sea.

Store Bay beach and facilities and local speciality of crab and dumpling.

Fort Milford canons and remnants of fortifications, just after the casino.

SOS Tobago Website www.sos-tobago.org E-mail: info@sos-tobago.og Mobile: (868) 29-3797

Touring Frankie Tours and Rentals

Mount Irvine Bay Car Park, Mount Irvine, Tobago. Tel: (868) 631-0369 / Mobile: (868) 681-3717 / 394-4553 E-mail: frankie.frank50@gmail.com www.frankietours-tobago.com Frankie Tours and Rentals welcomes you to paradise, where we provide all your touring needs. Boat tours include: Coastline snorkeling and Beach Barbeques, Speed Boats, Dolphin-watching, Shark Fishing, Fly Fishing, Deep-Sea Fishing, Buccoo Reef, Sunset /Evening cruises, beach parties, weddings and more. Options include meals and an open bar aboard wellequipped boats with experienced crew. Land tours include island/safari tours, bird-watching, rainforest and the off-shore bird sanctuaries. Wide choice of vehicle rentals. All guides are TTIC certified.

Tobago Now Tourism Services

420 Orange Hill Rd., Prospect, Patience Hill, Tobago Tel/Fax: (868) 639-1476 Mobile: (868) 688-7650 E-mail: info@tobagonow.com www.tobagonow.com We speak: English, Italian, German, French, and Spanish. Come with us, live the adventure! Experience the unique and exciting Off-Road Jeep Safari. Climb aboard one of our jeeps and see parts of the island and appreciate spectacular views that most visitors never get to discover. Off the beaten track through rivers, old plantations, from the Caribbean coast into the heart of the island. Feel the pounding waterfall and see the wildlife. Join our friendly and professional guides for a fun day that you’ll never forget! Tobago Now also offers a variety of other excursions, accommodation, and incentive travel. Let your vacation come alive. SIMPLY DISCOVER TOBAGO NOW!

Yes! Tourism Ltd.

Yes! Tourism Ltd. c/o Bamboo Walk Hotel, LP 171 Old Milford Road, Lowlands, Tobago Tel: (868) 631-0286 Fax: (868) 631-0287 E-mail: booking@yes-tourism.com www.yes-tourism.com Yes! Tourism is Tobago’s premier Tour Operator. Come and experience our unique land and sea excursions with certified guides. No matter if you need a rental car, accommodation, transfers or to charter a plane, we are your “one-stop-shop” for all your holiday requirements. Discover Tobago with us or ask us about our destination management services in more than twenty Caribbean islands. Yes! is the answer. What was the question?

Sherman’s Auto Rentals & Ground Tours Lambeau Village, Tobago, W.I. Phone: (868) 639-2292 -- Fax: (868) 639-3084 U.S. direct line: 1 (469) 532-2544 U.K. direct line: (011) 44 (865)-594706 E-mail: shermans@tstt.net.tt

This vibrant, service-oriented company is operated by a staff that is dedicated to the Tourism Industry_of Tobago. We boast of over twenty years in the Automobile Business and today we are in the _Car Rental and Ground Handling Tours on the beautiful island of Tobago. Our clients are offered top-of-the-line luxury cars or jeeps. Meeting and greeting on arrival!

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shopping

shopping by Dawn Glaisher

Shopping while on holiday is not always about souvenirs. Sometimes we travel light and buy the essentials at our destination point, or we lose a pair of shoes on our island tour. There’s always an excuse for shopping, and Tobago offers a wide choice of retail therapy outlets. Let’s start at the Lowlands Gulf City Mall. It’s open from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. with the largest number of retail outlets at one location, lots of parking and a branch of Scotiabank with 24-hour drive-thru ABM. You will find a pharmacy, shoe shops, a choice of clothing outlets including Puma brand and Zoom Caribbean with its great local t-shirts, beach shoes and bags, swim wear and wraps. Local book chain Nigel R. Khan is fully stocked for all your holiday reading, bMobile and Digicel cell phone outlets are available for business and there is a branch of Radio Shack and a jewellery store for that special gift. In the food court, try a Häagen-Dazs ice cream to keep you going until lunch. Fast food outlets include three familiar international chains plus a local company serving Arabian food. MovieTowne with its four-screen cineplex is located next to the Mall and may be showing that film you never had time to see back home. For gift and souvenir shops, start at the beach facilities at Store Bay and Pigeon Point which cater to sun-and-sea gifts, with lots of bright cotton wraps, wild shirts and tees plus crafts from leather to wood, calabash and bamboo and locally made jewellery. The area offers other possibilities at

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Shopping Crown Point Hotel with its Bambú Gift Shop and T’s, Coco Reef Hotel, d’Art Yard, the Mangrove Shop and Things Natural with its selection of wooden hand-crafted creations, art, jewellery, and herbal medications. There is a small duty-free shop at the airport; branches of Republic Bank and RBTT Bank are also close by. Interested in art and sculpture? Try Kimme’s Castle Museum open on Sundays in Mt. Irvine and The Art Gallery in Lowlands for Martin Superville’s original art, limited edition prints and photography, and sometimes art exhibitions showing the works of other local artists. Martin’s Khalaloo Bowl restaurant and wine bar makes for a great break; it is open for breakfast, lunch and afternoon teas. You can also visit Horizon’s Framing and Décor in the Morshead Mall off Shirvan Road. The store carries original art, prints, cards and wooden gifts. Artist Rachel Heusner runs the Art Gallery & Coffee Shop at 59 Mt. Pleasant Road and Tomley Roberts’ Art Studio is at 48 Mt. Pleasant Local Road. There is also Genesis Nature Park & Art Gallery located in Goodwood, and l’Anse Fourmi boasts a small gallery run by Jason Nedd. In Buccoo Village, check out Batiki Point with its batik clothes and wall hangings, opposite the new goat track. At most hotels you will find some boutiques offering clothes and gifts, like at Le Gran Courland, Grafton Beach Hotel and Vanguard Hotel (targeted to re-open December 2010 after renovations). For visitors in self-catering accommodation, there are supermarkets in Canaan, (Pennysavers and Viewport), Carnbee (Pennysavers), Bethany (Gourmet Foods/Morshead),

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Shopping Scarborough (K-Mart) and for those last-minute basics, try Jimmy’s at Crown Point, or Cans ‘n’ Stuff gourmet minimart in Bon Accord alongside The Shade. For alcohol, in addition to the supermarkets, try Miles Almandoz & Co. near to K-Mart off the main traffic lights at Scarborough. Vintage Imports next to Pennysavers in Carnbee and La Tartaruga Restaurant in Buccoo also has a wonderful Italian wine cellar and sells retail. For fresh fruits and veggies, try the Scarborough market in the early mornings or stalls anywhere on the roadside. For fresh fish, go direct to the fishermen near Conrado Hotel on the way to Pigeon Point at midday, or afternoons at the sea wall beside the Mt. Irvine public beach facility. Fish are fresh from the sea and will be scaled and gutted, even filleted on request. On Bacolet Street, Scarborough, opposite Blue Haven Hotel, is the Cotton House, a batik studio offering clothing, art prints and mobiles. Scarborough itself has some clothing shops, pharmacies and banks but with limited parking in town, it is best to explore on foot. Take a breather at Ciao Café at the bottom of Burnett Hill for delicious Italian ices and cappuccino. Heading west along the old coast road, you’ll find Shore Things Café & Crafts where you can sip homemade tamarind juice while you browse the gifts, art prints, music CDs, and more. To relax completely during your holiday, try a facial or whole body massage at Equilibrium Face & Body Spa at Tobago Plantations, or the wide range of spa facilities at Coco Reef Hotel, Crown Point or Le Grand Courlan in Grafton. One of the treasures of Tobago, the holistic haven of Kariwak Village Hotel, Crown Point, offers daily yoga, stretch, chi gong and tai chi classes from 8:00 a.m. to 9:00 a.m. Trained professionals also offer various massages, reflexology, detox foot baths, ozone and photon treatments: the perfect end to a busy day’s shopping.

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propert 168

Stephen Broadbridge

property by Dawn Glaisher

Tobago is generally acknowledged as a very special island within the West Indian archipelago, despite the undoubted beauty of some of its near neighbours. The reason is that Tobago is blessed with a wealth of natural treasures. Not just nice beaches, or a tall mountain, a deep cave or lovely reef. Tobago has everything! And that includes a central ridge of mountains, protected rainforest, over 200 bird species and an endless supply of fresh underground water. It has Atlantic and Caribbean beaches, extensive surrounding reefs, deep-sea fishing, at least 400 species of fish. Visitors to Tobago will love the rainy season as well as the dry season and have a choice of sights and activities that will surely be memorable, no matter where they have holidayed in the past. So the natural question is: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Can I buy a holiday home in Tobago?â&#x20AC;? Yes, you certainly can! The Foreign Investment Act of 1990 regulates property purchases by foreign nationals; it allows up to one acre for residential use and up to five acres if you have a commercial project in mind. (Remember that a work permit will be needed for any commercial activity by a non-national.) Within these parameters, the actual purchase procedure is much the same as it is for locals in terms of signing a sale agreement and making a 10 per cent deposit into escrow until title searches are done. A non-national does additionally have to show proof of source of funds as the Act stipulates purchase in a major internationally-traded currency. The Foreign Investment Act has operated successfully in Tobago for twenty years and the holiday villa sector has been a major beneficiary of this. However, in 2007 the Tobago House of Assembly asked for some additional controls on the level of foreign investment, fearing an imbalance in ownership. Now a land license must be obtained prior to purchase. This is not such a radical move, given the fact that at

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Stephen Broadbridge

Property

least ten other islands have introduced controls in some form or other. In September 2009 the licencing system was finally put in place, and after a few teething problems, the first licences were issued by August 2010. Just like in many developed countries, foreign investment in Tobago is restricted to certain locations on the island, and a list of Designated Development Areas was created to guide the overseas investor. The areas selected are those which were developed specifically for visitors to the island; for example, Tobago Plantations Beach and Golf Resort and Mt Irvine Golf Course Development. And others were selected because that is where holiday homes and permanent residences have evolved naturally, like in Bacolet, Grafton and Englishmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bay. Visitors would like to own a holiday home on Tobago should first take a look at the website of the Ministry of Finance where they will find the licence application form and regulations for foreign purchasers. A visit to one of our Attorneys would also

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be advisable to ensure that you have a full understanding of all that is involved. And if you use the services of a professional real estate agent, they too should be able to explain the system in detail and answer all your queries. Property prices have fallen measurably over the last three years. T&Tâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new government, in collaboration with the private sector, is now tackling the challenges of destination marketing and it will surely be part of their strategy to welcome back the small holiday home investor, as well as larger investors in hotels and resorts to whom they will be able to offer good value and an excellent incentive package. Tobago remains a beautiful island, perfect for sensitive, sustainable development that will protect future generations but at the same time provide the natural experiences that todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s traveller insists on. For further information on purchasing a holiday home in Tobago, visit finance.gov.tt and click on the note to Non-Citizens making applications under the Foreign Investment Act.

Property Caribbean Estates, Lands & Villas Property Sales, Holiday Villa Rentals & Property Management Corner Milford & Golden Grove Roads, Canaan, Tobago Tel: (868) 639-LAND, 639-5263, 639-9663 Fax: (868) 639-2258 E-mail: info@realestatetobago.com www.realestatetobago.com If you are looking for a home of your own or land to build on, a holiday villa or a commercial investment, our friendly and professional staff is on hand to help you find the perfect property. Our experienced sales agents have extensive knowledge about the Tobago property market and can advise you on all aspects of buying and selling. Our holiday villas are maintained to the highest standard and our villa rental agents will ensure your holiday is truly a relaxing getaway.

Rain Property Management Ltd. Lot 1, Bon Accord Estate, LP#2 Pigeon Point Road, Tobago Tel/Fax: (868) 631-0766 Mobile: (868) 796-0820 or 497-2955 E-mail: rainsoriah@tstt.net.tt

Rain Property Management offers a highly personalised service, which includes property management, vacation villa rentals, long- and short-term house rentals, and property sales. We go the extra mile, tailoring our searches to find you land or property to suit your individual needs. We provide a friendly and efficient service, no matter what your budget. Our knowledge of the local market enables us to advise you at a professional level, yet with the warmth and friendliness of our island people. Give us a call, our friendly staff awaits as we look forward to doing business with you.

Villa Petrus

Tel: 680-8628 / 495-3544 / 680-9007 Email: islreal@tstt.net.tt Perched atop the lush Prospect Hills, this plantation-type villa sits on two acres of beautifully landscaped gardens. The villa evokes a romantic bygone era of grandeur and is comprised of six bedrooms and five and a half bathrooms, with a separate one-bedroom selfcontained cottage. Villa Petrus also offers guests access to a lovely 22 metre swimming pool and fully stocked wine cellar. This villa was voted Tobagoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading villa by the World Travel Awards in 2006.

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a Tobagon ian

Meet

Meet Tobago-born Soca Superstar: Shurwayne Winchester by Nasser Khan

Shurwayne Winchester has risen to the status of soca superstar since he burst onto the entertainment field as a youngster at school in Tobago, where he was born and raised. Soca is Trinidad and Tobago’s contribution to the world music stage: a hybrid of soul music and the original, slower calypso which has evolved into fast-paced high tempo rhythms (power soca), as well as the mid-tempo ‘groovy soca’. Winchester has mastered both forms and proved it by copping both Carnival’s Power Soca and Groovy Soca Monarch competition titles, even capturing both in 2006. His talents as a song writer have been rewarded two years in succession by the Copyright Music Organisation of Trinidad & Tobago (COTT) with their Songwriter of the Year and Song of the Year Awards. Other awards that adorn this multitalented Tobago-born artiste’s trophy cabinet include Groovy Song of the Year, Up-tempo Song of the Year and People’s Choice at various times in the recent past. This polite and humble Trinbagonian is one of the busiest entertainers in the business. His performances have brought him admiration from young and old party goers alike. Locally, regionally and internationally, Winchester has become a huge favourite among soca fans at fetes and shows for his melodic voice and dynamic performances. Accolades abound with some of his more popular winning soca numbers being “Look The Band Coming”, “Dead or Alive” and “Don’t Stop”. He has also collaborated with other artistes like popular reggae artiste Maxi Priest and his albums are all chock filled with infectious soca rhythms. Winchester and his band Y.O.U. are more than likely to be among the featured performers in cities and carnivals in the Caribbean, North America, Europe and Asia these

days. This is a trend that he plans to continue by establishing himself as a household name in the entertainment business. And it’s not always about making money. He has also become a popular cultural ambassador for Trinidad and Tobago, and was selected to appear on delegations and teams to countries such as Panama, Germany and India. Winchester’s deep Tobago roots are close to his heart. He was born at the Scarborough General Hospital and educated at the Signal Hill Primary School and Elizabeth’s College there. He credits his solid family upbringing as “a blessing” and a large factor in his success in staying focused and grounded and even lists his favourite meal as Tobago’s unique crab and dumpling dish. The artistes who have influenced him are as far from the soca genre as you can get, including Abba, the Carpenters and the Beatles. He is also a great admirer of late civil rights leader Martin Luther King. His advice to those wanting to follow in his footsteps is, “Be true to you. Learn the art form and do your home work on performance and singing. Work hard, be dedicated and believe in God.” Winchester told Ins and Outs that one of his greatest experiences was appearing at the internationally famous annual Tobago Jazz Experience in April 2010 alongside such superstars as R&B Grammy award-winning singer Chaka Khan and soul diva Erykah Badu. He foresees that the jazz festival will attract more and more visitors from abroad for the unique experience it provides. Moving from strength to strength, the otherwise unassuming Winchester continues to excite and ignite audiences with his special brand of dynamic and entertaining performances, coupled with his amazing vocal range and smooth renditions.

Sade-le a Photography

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nightlif

nightlife The growth in the tourism sector both from domestic and foreign visitors has resulted in a greater demand for entertainment throughout the year. Soloists, pan artists and small bands have emerged to fill this need with performances at many restaurants and bars. Casinos have also opened for adult entertainment while MovieTowne at Lowlands Mall caters to the whole family. See our guide of what is available (page 178) .

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The Tobago

Images by Luke Benai

experience

Soca Queen Destra Garcia, with Ken “Professor” Philmore

Jazz in the Callaloo: the 2010 Tobago Jazz Experience by Luke Benai If you missed the 2010 Tobago Jazz Experience, you’ve lost out on more than memories of good times on the beautiful island. Held from April 22 to 25, the festival was a complex jazz melody in itself, made up of three days of wonderful performances by some of the regions’ and the world’s most respected and skilled musicians and performers. It’s not customary to start at the end, but the festival’s closing concert was also its highlight. It featured internationally acclaimed singer, Chaka Khan, who thrilled the patrons at the Pigeon Point Heritage Park. The park was transformed into the perfect seaside concert venue: a beautifully lit beached ship was docked at the flank of the stage, further enhancing the impact of the set design and backdrop. Khan’s presentation mesmerised the audience, many of whom abandoned their seats to dance as Khan sang hits like “Destiny,” “I Feel For You” and “Through The Fire” one after another in quick succession. But it was Tobago’s own Kay Alleyne who stole the show. The winner of the 2007 edition of the Digicel Rising Stars competition had patrons calling for more.

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Alleyne opened her set with the Etta James classic “At Last”, sending the audience wild. She kept them cheering and singing along as she continued her performance with the Porgy and Bess classic “Summertime,” “Body And Soul” by Anita Baker and “And I Am Telling You I’m Not Going”, originally sung by Jennifer Holiday. Patrons were begging for more from Alleyne long after she left the stage. Alleyne did not only impress her audience; she also had the legendary Khan in awe over her crisp, clear and powerful vocals and the way she took command of the stage. In fact, Khan invited Alleyne to join her on stage for a duet on “I’m Every Woman” and told the beaming young singer to take the lead, much to the delight and amazement of the audience. The night would not have been complete without some Caribbean-flavoured jazz, and Trinidad-born trumpeter Etienne Charles awed the audience with his dexterity and style as he performed original tunes from his two CD collections, Folklore and Culture Shock, along with his quintet. But now back to the beginning. The Tobago Jazz Experience 2010 began on April 22 with a free event on the Scarborough Esplanade where people were treated to different performances set up at points along the waterfront. The offerings here ranged from contemporary jazz and calypso to pop, reggae and folk.

Two members of the Alternative Quartet

Erykah Badu headlined the World Music Night on April 23 at the Heritage Park where she not only commanded the audience’s attention with her fantastic vocals, but also amused them with her laid-back, eclectic performance style. Though it was a long night and Badu took the stage after 1:00 a.m., fans held fast, hoping the soul singer would perform their favourite songs. She did not disappoint, treating the audience to hits like “On And On,” “Drama” and of course “Tyrone”. Rapso trio 3Canal also performed on Friday, along with the Cut+Clear Crew, and their vibe brought the audience to life. Chutney-soca band, Dil-E-Nadan maintained the energy level when they performed a mix of soca, chutney and reggae getting people dancing. They closed with a swing version of the 2010 Carnival Road March song “Palance,” originally written and performed by JW and Blaze. Trinidadian jazz vocalist, Mavis John paid tribute to the legendary Tobago-born soca /calypso artiste Mighty Shadow, singing jazz versions of his hits. She opened her performance with her own “Jazz In The Callaloo” accompanied by jazz ace, Michael “Ming” Low Chew Tung. The queen of soca Destra Garcia delivered her second major performance since having given birth to her daughter, Xaiya, when she performed at Pzazz at the Heritage Park on April 24. Presented by Pan Trinbago, the show featured several top solo pannists and steel orchestras from Trinidad and Tobago. Destra was joined by Ken “Professor” Philmore to perform songs for the steelpan they produced together. But Destra could not leave the stage without performing several of her Carnival favourites, sending her female fans wild with songs like “Tremble It,” “Fly,” “Bonnie And Clyde” and “Is Carnival.”

Jazz trumpeter Etienne Charles and saxophonist Jacques Schwarz-Bart get into a smooth groove

The jazz festival also included shows at Mount Irvine Beach Resort on during the afternoons of April 24 and 25 where hundreds gathered on the sands to take in Jazz on the Beach. Songbird Vaughnette Bigford shone here, accompanied by saxophonist Tony Woodruffe. Swimmers left the water just to hear Bigford do covers like “I Just Don’t Wanna Be lonely” and Miriam Makeba’s “Pata Pata.” Where there is good music, there is usually great food and the Tobago Jazz Experience was no exception. At the Heritage Park, patrons enjoyed a lavish spread which included traditional Tobagonian delights like curried crab and dumplings and ‘blue food’: stewed dasheen roots. Mouth watering yet? Don’t worry; if you did miss the 2010 run of the Tobago Jazz Experience, you can look forward to next year’s edition, which the Tobago Division of Tourism promises will be even bigger and more exciting.

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Nightlife MovieTowne

Kariwak Village Hotel

Blue Haven Hotel

Royalton Casino

Gulf City Mall, Lowlands (868) 631-1843 / 0089 State-of-the-art Cineplex, with four screens, concession, video arcade and kiddies arcade. VIP premier seating also available. (868) 660-7500 Mondays: Manager’s Cocktail from 6:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. Thursdays: Guitarist Fridays: Pan Jumbies & Pan Music from 7:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. Sundays: Pleasure Pirates from 7:00p.m. to 9:00 p.m. Dress Code: Elegantly Casual

Café Iguana

(868) 631-8205 Closed Wednesdays Mon, Tues, Thurs, Sun: 5pm until Fridays: Latin Nights Saturdays: Local African Drumming Group (Drummers of Tomorrow); 9:00 p.m. until Dress Code: Elegantly Casual

Charthouse/ Sundowner’s Bar

(868) 631-2006 Happy Hour from 5:00 p.m.to 7:00 p.m. daily Fridays: Live Entertainment by Princess Adana from 7:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. Saturdays: Live Entertainment by Ancil Wyatt from 7:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. Dress Code: Casual

Coco Reef Resort and Spa

(including Tamara’s Restaurant) (868) 639-8571 Mondays: Manager’s Cocktail from 6:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. Steelpan Music (Pan by Jamie Ramsey) from 8:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Tuesdays: Live entertainment by Jade from 8:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Wednesdays: Live Entertainment by Princess Adana from 8:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Thursdays: Live entertainment by Kurt Chapman from 8:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Fridays: Live entertainment by Jade from 8:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Saturdays: Live entertainment by the Heartbreakers band from 8:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Sundays: Live entertainment by Steve Wilson (Pianist) and other entertainment by Exotic Vibrations & Soul Expressions on special occasions from 8:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Tamara’s Restaurant: Live entertainment every night, including steelpan, drummers, limbo dancers, ballroom dancing, pianists (all local bands) from 8:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Dress Code: Elegantly Casual

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(868) 639-8442 Fridays and Saturdays: Live entertainment from the Kariwak Players (Jazz, Reggae, Soca) from 9:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. Dress Code: Elegantly Casual (868) 631-8500 Located next to Crown Point Beach Hotel, it is opened daily from 4:00 p.m. to 3:00 a.m. Sip a drink at their Max’s Bar.

The Pavilion

(868) 639-0361 - Office Happy Hour: Tuesday to Sunday from 5:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. Dress Code: Semi Formal

Seahorse Inn

(868) 639-0686 Happy Hour daily from 5:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. Dress Code: Elegantly Casual

Sunset Palms

(868) 639-0979 Corner Shirvan & Buccoo Roads, Mt. Irvine, Tobago Live entertainment from 8:00 p.m. Open Monday to Friday from 2:00p.m to 3:30 a.m. and on Saturday to Sunday from 12:00 p.m. to 3:30 a.m. Dress Code: Casually Smart

Shakers Cocktail Bar

Also known as, Shakers @ Ru-B-Lou’s Shirvan Road, Tobago, West Indies (868) 660-8716 Open from 6:00 p.m. until Dress Code: Casual

Bar Code Sports Bar & Grill

(868) 635-CODE (2633) Corner Mt. Marie & Scarborough Waterfront. Five (5) minutes walk from the port. For upcoming events and specials visit: www.barcodetobago.com

Shade

(868) 639-9651 Milford Road and Robert Street, Crown Point Open Wednesday to Saturday from 5:00 p.m. to 5:00 a.m. ‘Inferno Friday’ nights cost $40.00 after 10:00 p.m. Ladies enter free on ‘Seductive Saturday’ nights until 12:00 a.m.

Nightlife

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accommodatio

accommodation by Dawn Glaisher

Tobago is the natural yin to the frenetic yang of the industrial world – a place where you can learn to do nothing at all. It is an island perfect for bird-watching and, of course, weddings. Tobago is surrounded by reefs, blessed with extensive rain forest, and which are not over-developed like many in the Caribbean. To cater to this wide range of visitors, Tobago offers a selection of properties that will appeal. Properties range from those in the thick of the tourism activity to remote dive hotels and isolated villas, and with all within an affordable range of prices. Tobago hotels, the largest of which is only 200 rooms, are located on both the Atlantic and Caribbean coasts in the south-west, with the exception of a few smaller dive hotels strategically placed at the further, north-east end of the island. If your budget better suits a guesthouse or bed & breakfast, you will find these throughout Crown Point and Bon Accord, Bacolet, Plymouth and points in between. For the visitor looking for absolute tranquility, we can offer a few nature retreats, well off the beaten track, where you can enjoy a truly personal service as you de-compress! Alternatively, you might prefer a self-catering holiday, and you will find apartments in the same south-west triangle, plus a full range of private villas in almost every corner of the island. They can be ‘stand alone’ villas at Englishman’s Bay or book within a gated resort community like Tobago Plantations, Samaan Grove and Sanctuary Villas. Wherever you choose to stay, you will not be far from the sea, from a beach, the forest, the birds and blissful peace. It is recommended that you choose accommodation that has some kind of government certification of registration and approval. The Tobago Hotel & Tourism Association lists its members and special accommodation deals and a lot more at TobagoHotelTourism.com. And Tobago House of Assembly’s Tourism Division gives a wide range of information on the island as a whole, so for further information or help with a specific enquiry, you can check it out at VisitTobago.gov.tt.

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Accommodation Rovanel’s Resort Store Bay Local Road Bon Accord Tobago Tel: (868) 639 9666, 639 0652 Fax: (868) 639 7908 www.rovanelsresorttobago.com

Beautifully landscaped and situated in a tranquil part of Tobago, at Rovanel’s you come face-to-face with the picturesque Caribbean! Surrounded by towering coconut palms, the resort has an endless variety of tropical foliage and a wide array of local and exotic animals. Guest are treated to quality service and given unwavering attention and genuine friendliness from our staff. In planning the vacation of a lifetime, Rovanel’s is where you begin.

Tropikist Beach Hotel & Resort Ltd. Administration Office Suite 102, 21B Gaston Street, Montrose, Chaguanas, Trinidad Tel: (868) 671-9143, 671-0631 • Fax: (868) 665-9236 CROWN POINT, TOBAGO, W.I. Tel: (868) 639-8512-3 E-mail: Tropikistbeachhotel@mail.tt Website: www.tropikist.com

Our Resort is harmoniously designed to bring comfort and nature together. The grounds of this 54-room hotel sits on the coastline of Tobago ensuring a breath-taking ocean view from any location within the Resort. This Three-star Resort was founded in 1977 and is nestled on five acres of well-landscaped property. Facilities include two restaurants, two pools, Jacuzzi and spa treatments. Tropikist is a preferred holiday destination. It is walking distance from surrounding beaches, restaurants, shops and five minutes from the Airport. All rooms are comfortably equipped with air-conditioning, cable TV, mini refrigerators, telephones, shower and baths, balcony or patio. Welcome to this tropical wonder.

Blue Haven Hotel

Bacolet Bay, Tobago Tel: (868) 660-7500 • Fax: (868) 660-7900 E-mail: reservations@bluehavenhotel.com www.bluehavenhotel.com The colonial-style villa at Blue Haven is the setting for the romantic restaurant Shutters on the Bay. The restaurant overlooks palm-fringed Bacolet Beach and the excellent menus combine international gourmet cuisine with West Indian spices. Seasonal entertainment provided. “The Blue Haven Hotel has the best restaurant on the island. The kitchen produces modern fusion cuisine using local ingredients...”(Condé Nast Traveler).

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Accommodation Blue Waters Inn

Batteaux Bay, Speyside Tobago, West Indies Tel: (868) 660-4341, (868) 660-2583 Fax: (868) 660-5195 E-mail: bwi@BlueWatersInn.com Nestled in the most beautiful bay in Tobago, Blue Waters Inn is a breathtaking escape from reality and a chance to experience the beauty of nature. Set amid forty-six acres of lush tropical grounds looking out on an expanse of turquoise water, it is the perfect retreat for nature lovers, scuba divers, bird watchers, families, weddings and honeymooners. Each room is steps from the rolling surf and golden sand, ensuring that you awake each morning to the symphony of nature and fall asleep to the soothing lullaby of waves each night.

The Villas at Stonehaven

Black Rock, Tobago. Tel: (868) 639-0361 Fax: (868) 639-0102 E-mail: stonehav@tstt.net.tt www.stonehavenvillas.com The Villas at Stonehaven are situated on a hillside overlooking a spectacular view of the Caribbean sea. The resort consists of 14 luxurious villas with spacious living areas, fifty-foot covered verandahs, private infinity edge pools, fully equipped granite kitchens and three air-conditioned bedrooms with en suite bathrooms. On the well-manicured grounds of the resort, you will find the beautiful Pavilion Clubhouse. The Clubhouse consists of a comfortable bar, lounge, and restaurant accented with a half-moon infinity pool, offering a welcoming atmosphere for relaxing and meeting fellow guests. The Pavilion is also a spectacular location for your next wedding or function. “Get 10% off of your Food and Beverage bill if you mention the following code on booking your Villa. INNSSTV. Valid till November 30, 2011.”

Belleviste Apartments Sandy Point, Tobago Tel: (868) 639-9351 Fax: (868) 631-8475 E-mail: bellevis@tstt.net.tt Web site: www.belleviste.com

Belleviste Apartments consists of twenty apartments that are within walking distance of the airport and two of Tobago’s finest beaches, Store Bay and Pigeon Point. The two-bedroom apartment sleeps four comfortably, two superior one-bedroom apartments for two persons, ten large studios (accommodating two persons each), eight of which interconnect and sleep four comfortably, and seven one-bedroom apartments, sleep two persons each. These fully furnished apartments have all amenities for your comfort, including air-conditioning, cable TV, hot/cold en suite showers, furnished kitchenettes for selfcatering, and each has a private balcony. There is a pool area and BBQ facilities for outdoor cooking.

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Accommodation Bamboo Walk Hotel

LP 171 Old Milford, Road, Hampden/Lowlands, Tobago Tel (868) 631-0050 or 631-0286 Fax: (868) 631-0287 E-Mail: reservations@bamboo-walk.com www.bamboo-walk.com <http://www.bamboo-walk.com> Bamboo Walk is a quiet, intimate hotel with 12 rooms, situated around a well-manicured tropical garden and pool area. The hotel is only ten minutes drive from Crown Point Airport or the Port of Scarborough. All our rooms are equipped with a/c units, cable TV, en suite bathrooms with hot and cold water and a relaxing porch. Enjoy fine dining at the Surf’N’Turf Restaurant under a traditional carat shed; we serve breakfast, lunch and dinner. And don’t miss our popular Friday evening BBQ and karaoke entertainment!

Tobago Island Suites

Corner Buccoo & Shirvan Roads, Mt. Irvine, Tobago, W.I. Tel: (868) 639-0979/631-1838 Fax: (868) 639-9551 E-mail: friends@tobagosuites.com www.tobagosuites.com When you’re in Tobago, you want to be just few minutes away from all the enticements Tobago offers. Tobago Island Suites & Casino is close to Golf, Diving, Beaches and some of the most charming villages, and beautiful scenery anywhere. Accommodation includes studios and family-friendly one- or two-bedroom suites, with all the facilities you need to make your stay convenient and comfortable. Spend your evening and try your luck at the Sunset Palm members’ club, located at Tobago Island Suites, offering casino-type games including poker, roulette and many other table games. Home of the well-known Tobago grill house, famous for its grilled fish, shrimp, chicken, beef, lamb, pork and daily specials. Open from Monday to Saturday for Lunch & Dinner. Closes when we feel like!

Sandy Point Beach Club

68-70 Store Bay Local Road, Crown Point, Tobago Resort Tel: (868) 639-0820/0877; (868) 631-8975/8976 Fax: (868) 631-8231 Resort E-mail: resort@sandypointbeachclub.com Reservations E-mail: reservations@sandypointbeachclub.com www.sandypointbeachclub.com The poetry and romance of the Caribbean reveal themselves in glorious abundance at Sandy Point Beach Club, the only Timeshare Resort in Trinidad & Tobago…a vantage from which to witness the eternal courtship between sun and sea. Forty-six well-appointed apartments ranging in size from studios to four-bedroom units, each designed and equipped to ensure an enjoyable, relaxing stay in Tobago, whether you plan to scuba dive, golf, explore Tobago’s rainforest reserve or just kick back and relax in the sun or in the quiet sanctuary of your holiday habitat.

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Accommodation Plantation Beach Villas Stonehaven Bay Road, Black Rock, Tobago Tel: (868) 639-9377 Fax: (868) 639-0455 E-mail: plantationbeach@tstt.net.tt www.plantationbeachvillas.com

Located on Tobago’s Caribbean coast, we are nestled in a grove of lush tropical trees, perched on a gently sloping hillside, leading down to the golden sands of the palm-fringed Grafton beach. The six luxurious Villas, were designed in the charming colonial style of turn-of-the-century West Indies, with traditional gingerbread wooden fretwork adorning its windows and door openings, the Villas are spacious two-storey homes with three en suite bedrooms. With the emphasis on elegant comfort and the serenity of nature, we are the perfect place for the guests who are looking for relaxation and to enjoy the beauty of Tobago.

Mount Irvine Bay Hotel & Golf Club P.O. Box 222, Scarborough, Tobago E-mail: mtirvine@tstt.net.tt www.mtirvine.com Reservations: (868) 639-9674/5 • Fax: (868) 639-8800

The Mount Irvine Bay Hotel & Golf Club Resort offers peace and tranquility to both the discerning traveler and the avid golfer. Set amidst an old sugarcane and coconut plantation overlooking the Caribbean Sea, this 105-room resort has its own recently renovated beach restaurant and bar, Olympic-sized swimming pool with swim-up bar, an 18-hole international golf course, several bars, restaurants and a business office with Internet services. Wireless Internet access is also available in the hotel lobby and conference rooms. We offer a choice of air-conditioned superior rooms, suites or spacious garden cottages. Our expansive conference facility is ideally suited for conferences or business meetings and can also be sub-divided for smaller groups. SPECIAL OFFER PACKAGES AVAILABLE

Surf Side Hotel

Pigeon Point Road, Crown Point, Tobago Tel: (868) 639-9702/639-0614 Fax: (868) 639-0614 E-mail: surfside@mail.tt Web site: www.surfsidetobago.com Why More People Settle For Surf Side: The nearby beaches, Store Bay and Pigeon Point, the surrounding restaurants and groceries, comfortable rooms, spacious kitchens, private baths, pools, cable TV, lavish porches, homely atmosphere, security, best location in Crown Point. Poolside villas. Dive shop in hotel. Similar accommodation at our associate company, PAR-MAY-LA’S INN, 53 Picton St., Newtown, Port of Spain. Tel: (868) 628-2008 Fax: (868) 628-4707.

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Accommodation Crown Point Beach Hotel

Tel: (868) 639-8781/3 Fax: (868) 639-8731 E-mail: reservations@crownpointbeachhotel.com www.crownpointbeachhotel.com Set on seven acres of beautifully landscaped grounds overlooking Store Bay, one of Tobago’s finest beaches. Within walking distance of the airport and the well-known Pigeon Point beach. Accommodation comprises of studio, cabana and one-bedroom apartments. All rooms have ocean view, kitchenette, bathroom, hair dryer, cable television and telephone. The Chart House poolside restaurant and Sundowners bar, cater for your entire food and beverage requirements. Recreational facilities include swimming pool, tennis courts, table tennis and shuffleboard, and there is free Internet facilities for our guests. From our grounds you can walk down steps that lead to Store Bay beach.

Sunspree Resort Ltd. #40 Store Bay Local Road, Crown Point, Tobago. Tel: 631-5195/ 631-5196 Fax: 631-5195 Email: sunspreeresort@gmail.com www.sunspreeresort.net

Sunspree Resort delights guests with luxurious accommodations, gourmet dining and close proximity to some of Tobago’s exotic beaches. The resort is five minutes’ walk from Crown Point International Airport. This Caribbean getaway boasts 19 rooms, each offering a view of either our garden or swimming pool. Different room and suite categories accommodate families of all sizes. Sunspree Resort is suitable for those who crave action and adventure, those interested in relaxation, or even those who are looking for romance. We even provide an idyllic paradise where all your wedding and honeymoon dreams can come true.

Johnston Apartments Store Bay, Tobago Tel: (868) 639-8915, 631-5160/2 (TAB) Tel: (868) 627-1927 (POS) Fax: (868) 631-5112 E-mail: johnapt@tstt.net.tt www.johnstonapartments.com

The Johnston Apartments in Tobago are magnificently located on Store Bay Beach, moments away from Crown Point International airport, nightclubs, shopping and the island’s best food. This vacation destination is ideal in every way. You can relax and unwind in our spacious one-bedroom apartments overlooking the sea. Each room is fully air-conditioned and self-contained, complete with a modern kitchen. Cleaning services are provided daily. Whilst staying at Johnston Apartments, you have the use of Crown Point Beach Hotel’s pool, restaurant, tennis court and conference facilities. The natural and man-made wonders will make your stay unforgettable.

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Accommodation

Lagoon Lodge

Oleander Drive, Bon Accord, Tobago Tel: (868) 680-9776 Fax: (868) 631-1613 Email: lagoonlodgetobago@gmail.com Lagoon Lodge is an exclusive hideaway villa accommodation, perfect for the vacationer or as a wedding reception venue. The seven-acre property has access to a secluded beach, its own swimming pool, plunge pools, and private jetty. The spacious grounds are beautifully tended and lead to a boardwalk through the mangroves of a protected marine area. The property has a couple of two-bedroom cottages, each carefully furnished with every essential appliance, a custom kitchen, air conditioning and maid service. Lagoon Lodge is the ideal place to stay whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re hiding away from the world or looking for adventure.

Canoe Bay

Cove Estate Lowlands Tobago Tel/Fax: (868) 631-0367 Email: canoebaytt@yahoo.com www.canoett.com Canoe Bay, located at the joining of the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, is a visitorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s paradise. Calm waters, a quiet atmosphere and wildlife and birds in abundance make a holiday at Canoe Bay a very relaxing and enjoyable experience. Whether it is our studios for couples, two-bedroom villas for families or just relaxing for the day at our beach facilities, Canoe Bay is the place to be in Tobago. We have bar, restaurant and pool facilities where you can enjoy our beautiful surroundings with a view of northern Trinidad. We are ideal for destination weddings and family days.

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experience

The Tobago

Gang Gang Sara: The Witch From Golden Lane Tobago is about translucent waters, coral reefs and friendly people. It is also about delicious crab and dumplings, a shining example of good Creole food. And its oral history, which is a cultural patchwork of old world civilisation and new world adventures, is equally intriguing. Tobago’s folklore, myths, superstitious beliefs and stories of early African traditions date back to slavery. Every year, these stories form part of the islands’ rich Heritage Festival. At the village of Les Coteaux (the Knives) folk tales and superstitions continue to haunt the imagination, especially those about the mysterious Gang Gang Sara from Golden Lane. Gang Gang Sara, whose name at birth was Louisa, is reputed to have flown (levitated) from Africa to Tobago, sometime in the eighteenth century. Generally regarded as a witch, she landed at Les Coteaux. From there she moved to Golden Lane where she became the village midwife, which earned her the name of Gang Gang. Alvin James, allegedly one of Sara’s descendants, said, “She knew everyone in the village, especially pregnant mothers and she even had the privilege of naming the babies after they were born.” James is currently the keeper of the African cemetery at Golden Lane. The cemetery is said to contain the body of Sara, her husband and Grandpa Peter, a white English slave master from Nigeria. The unmarked tombs have been there for near two centuries. James’s house sits close to the tombs on Louisa Hill, where like sentinels they overlook Culloden Bay. James said his grandparents told him that Gang Gang Sara had supernatural powers as an obeah man (‘obeah’ is one local term for dark magic or witchcraft). “She knew exactly what potion to recommend to her female clients who wanted to get a man,” he said. Gang Gang Sara lived at Louisa Hill for many years before she met Long John, a man well over six feet tall, whom she married. After his death Sara became lonely and wanted to return to Africa. James said, “She climbed one of the tallest silk cotton trees in Culloden to make her return journey. Believing she could still fly, she took off from the top of the tree. She fell down and died on the spot.” According to James, Sara had lost the ability to fly because during her sojourn in Tobago she had eaten salt, which destroyed her spiritual strength, and she had become too fat to fly. Sara was buried at Golden Lane close to her husband’s grave. But since her death, the burial ground site has not been the same. Allegedly, the spirit of Sara continued to wander for several years. And it was not until the intervention of an African woman from Canada that her soul was put to rest.

by Louis B Homer

James said before the visit, there were several weird incidents at his home. The most disturbing was an attack by millions of ants. All efforts to destroy them failed. “Before the attack I found a clay smoking pipe in the house foundation. I took it upstairs, but it fell and broke. At the same time, the ants attacked the house.” he said. “We used all kinds of medicine to kill the ants, but they did not go away. The next day a woman came from Canada and told me Gang Gang came to her in a dream and told her to go to her grave and do certain things to release her spirit. After the ritual all the ants disappeared.” The base of the tree from which Sara had hoped to fly, continues to be part of the mysteries of Culloden. It’s known as the tallest tree in Tobago. Weird noises and screaming can be heard near the tree on full moon nights. The mystery of Gang Gang Sara may be legendary, but the existence of the tombs gives credence to a story that can only be explained by exhuming the bodies of the slaves buried at Louisa Hill. But the old heads of Golden Lane believe all the bodies were returned to Africa a long time ago, and the tombs are only symbols of the past. So we may never know if Gang Gang Sara’s restless spirit is real or merely Tobago legend.

Drawing by Peter Shim. Courtesy Paria Publishing

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restaurants From fine-dining to quaint, to spicy local food to pizzas cooked in imported Italian pizza ovens, Tobago offers its visitors a range of foods and eating establishments to choose from. Famous for its curried crab and dumplings, Store Bay in Crown Point has many food vendors who offer this local dish as well as rotis (unleavened dough fried and filled with your choice of curried meat or vegetables), stewed chicken or beef served with rice or cassava or fried plantain. These vendors are all licensed by the Health Authorities. Beware of pepper sauces which you may be encouraged to try; these can be very spicy, so the use of the local term ‘slight pepper’ can make all the difference between you enjoying your meal or not! Tobagonians are very fond of grilling and barbequing, and you’ll find lots of stalls and restaurants that offer these techniques. For those with a sweet tooth, vendors, especially at Crown Point international airport, sell sugar cakes (grated coconut and sugar being the main ingredients with some flavouring and colouring) and for the adventurous, the famous Tobago bene balls, a crunchy mixture of molasses and sesame seeds. At fine-dining restaurants, your servers will be only too willing to assist you with your choice from their menu and explain the local foods, herbs and spices and how they have been prepared. The restaurant guide we have provided gives many choices, especially ones that offer local cuisine made with fresh ingredients and herbs. You are advised to make bookings ahead of time especially during the busy periods such as Christmas and New Year. Your bill, usually presented on request, will reflect 15 per cent VAT (value-added tax and 10 per cent service charge in TT$ (US$1 to TT$6.35). It is customary to tip your waiter a minimum of five per cent to show your appreciation. International credit cards are widely accepted at bars and restaurants but at simpler establishments, you may be expected to pay with cash.

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Restaurants The Pavilion Restaurant

The Villas at Stonehaven, Black Rock, Tobago Tel: (868) 639-0361 • Fax: (868) 639-0102 Reservations: (868) 639-0361 E-mail: stonehav@tstt.net.tt www.stonehavenvillas.com Lunch: Noon to 3:00 p.m. Dinner: 7:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. We are closed on Mondays. Visa or MasterCard accepted. Dress: Elegantly casual With one of the best views on the island, combined with excellent lunch and dinner options, the Pavilion Restaurant is a great place to spend an evening away from home. Our lunch menu features salads and sandwiches for all tastes. Our Dinner menu includes delicacies such as Beef Tenderloin wrapped with smoked bacon and our fresh lobster sautéed in garlic butter. We also provide vegetarian and kids options. Drinks are half-price during our happy hour from 5:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. “Get 10% off of your Food and Beverage bill if you mention the following code on booking your Villa. INNSSTV. Valid till November 30, 2011.”

The Shade

Facebook keyword: “The Shade” 15 Mt. Pleasant Blvd., Bon Accord, Tobago, W.I. E-mail: theshade@tstt.net.tt Tobago’s premier nightclub introduces it’s ‘after work lime’! Come and enjoy the outdoor ambience, great food and happy hours on rum, beer and scotch from 5 p.m. till 10 p.m. Then at 10 p.m., the Shade transforms into what it is known for: the best party on the island. It’s the place to be when you’re in Tobago. Open Wednesday to Saturday, 5 p.m. until dawn.

Kariwak Village Holistic Haven and Hotel Store Bay Local Road, Crown Point, Tobago Tel: (868) 639-8442 www.kariwak.com

Opened in 1982, Kariwak is an oasis nestled in lush green gardens…a small, peaceful, intimate hotel dedicated to nurturing mind, body, spirit and community. Its name and design evoke the island’s Amerindian legacy…twenty-four rooms tucked away in the gardens surrounding the pool and waterfall Jacuzzi. Homegrown herbs are the signature of Kariwak’s highly acclaimed cuisine. Morning stretch, yoga and tai chi classes and body treatments from our highly qualified therapists are all offered in-house. Kariwak Village…the perfect place to find balance and rejuvenation.

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Restaurants Shore Things

Old Milford Road, Lambeau, Tobago Tel: (868) 635-1072 Reservations: Recommended December–April www.tobagotoday.com/shorethings Opening hours: Mon-Fri 10-6 and Sat 8-4 Come and experience the gracious hospitality of Shore Things Café & Craft. Enjoy a light snack or not-so-light lunch in our casual yet tasteful outdoor café overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Try a true Caribbean rum punch midweek or have a lazy breakfast on Saturday mornings, sipping on island juices while enjoying the view. Browse the selection of local handicraft in the store while you decide between a smoked-fish quiche with garden-fresh salad or shrimp pizza with roasted red peppers, grilled aubergine (egg plant) and sweet tomatoes. Decisions, decisions…whatever your choice, save some room for coconut cream pie or maybe some pineapple ice cream. All breads and pastries are baked fresh on site. Call in your order for pick up or simply come in and indulge—naturally.

The Backyard Café

Next to Dillon’s Seafood Restaurant, Crown Point, Tobago Tel: (868) 639-7264 Mobile: (868) 715-6035 Opening hours; Monday–Friday 11:00 a.m.–8:00 p.m. E-mail: backyardcafe@hotmail.com www.the.backyard@yahoo.com Closed: May and June   The Backyard Café is well known in Tobago for its quirky decor, smiling staff, delicious lunches and early dinners. In our oasis of calm, you will enjoy our gourmet salads, pastas and delicious baguettes. We also offer freshly blended fruit juices, sangria, cappuccino, espresso and much more. And Backyard guests seldom leave before having a slice of our famous Banana Rum Chocolate cake! We’re also stocked with fun board games for rainy days or lazy afternoons and special seating and toys provided for the little Backyard guests!

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Restaurants Tobago Grillers

Located at Buccoo Junction, Mount Irvine (by Tobago Island Suites and Sunset Palm Casino) Tel: (868) 639-0979 Tobago’s famous Grill House, known for its unique taste and crazy chef. Take-away or dine-in service in a very casual atmosphere. Local prices! Daily specials.   On the grill: Chicken, Fish, Shrimp, Lobster, Pork, Lamb, Beef, T-bone Steaks   Open: Monday–Saturday for lunch and dinner from noon, till we feel like closing!

Ciao Café Italian Coffee Shop, Food & Cocktail Bar Burnett Street, Scarborough, Tobago Tel/Fax: (868) 639-3001 Open Daily

Located in downtown Scarborough, the Ciao Café offers a friendly atmosphere and courteous service. Ciao was the first to offer authentic Italian gelato in T&T, with over twenty gelato and sorbetto flavours artisan-made on location. We specialize in pastas, lasagnas, panini’s, salads, delicious cakes, authentic espresso, true cappuccino, cocktails and a selection of international beers. The gourmet shop offers top of the line Italian products like prosecco, Italian wines, parmesan cheese and prosciutto. Private area available for weddings, parties and special events.

Khalaloo Bowl

Hibiscus Drive, Lowlands, Tobago. Tel: 631-1424 or 639-0457 E-mail: artgal2@hotmail.com Special Friday: 5 p.m. – 9:00 p.m. Soup Saturday: 10:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. Brunch Sunday: 10:00 a.m.– 3:00 p.m. West Indian Flavours…visit them again! We take that to heart at the Khalaloo Bowl. Situated among the treetops of The Art Gallery, the Khalaloo Bowl offers a selection of tasty West Indian-spiced dishes. We welcome you to enjoy a delightful breakfast, a sumptuous lunch or afternoon tea in the natural environment! Quiet location for small weddings, private dinners, family parties or business luncheons.

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Restaurants Shutters on the Bay Bacolet Bay, Tobago Tel: (868) 660-7500 Reservations: (868) 660-7400 Fax: (868) 660-7900 www.bluehavenhotel.com

The colonial-style villa at romantic Blue Haven Hotel is the setting for the restaurant, Shutters On The Bay, overlooking Bacolet Beach. The excellent menus featuring fish, lobster and crayfish, combine international gourmet cuisine with West Indian ingredients and spices.

Café Coco

First Left off Pigeon Point Road, Crown Point, Tobago Tel: (868) 639-0996 Fax: (868) 639-8574 Reservations: (868) 639-0996 E-mail: cocoreef-tobago@trinidad.net Café Coco is the most spectacular restaurant and bar in the region, with seating for 200. It features waterfalls, fountains, marble bathrooms and hand-painted tiles, all synchronized to create an exotic atmosphere of charm and beauty amidst impeccable landscaping. This unique place brings to Tobago, delicious dining in an intimate setting. Our chefs, from their open kitchen, offer a wide range of reasonably priced dishes, carefully selected to excite every palate. We offer a perfect venue for weddings, graduations, birthday parties and other group functions.

Café Havana

72 Bacolet Street, Scarborough, Tobago Tel: (868) 639 2357 / (868) 639 3551 E-mail: dine@cafehavana.org www.cafehavana.org Café Havana, one of Tobago’s newest restaurants and cocktail bars, has already developed a faithful group of regular diners. The menu is a fusion of mouth-watering dishes, including Lobster Thermidor and Churrasco Steak, with local flavours that transcend many cultures. The menu is complemented by suitable wines and you can enjoy authentic Mojitos and other inspired drinks from the extensive cocktail list. The restaurant is open EVERY DAY of the year, for breakfast 7:30 to 10 a.m., lunch at 12 noon to 3 p.m. and dinner from 6 p.m. There is also a ‘happy hour’ from 3 to 6 p.m. Lunch is available at the beach bar as well. Visit the web site for menus, video and online reservations!

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experience

T&T

A Love Affair:

Courtesy The Beacon Insurance Company Limited

The Beacon Trinidad and Tobago Cycling Festival celebrates its Tenth Anniversary The love affair began with the whir of the wheels and the breathtaking pace. The rest, as they say, is history. The Beacon Insurance Company Limited has given Trinidad and Tobago 10 years of unwavering support to cycling through the annual Beacon Trinidad and Tobago Cycling Festival, with each year’s competition being more intense than the next. Hosting world-class athletes such as Stephan Steinweg and Franco Marvulli, the Beacon has sought to raise the bar for our local cyclists, lining them up next to Olympic medalists and Tour de France enthusiasts, in order to build their confidence to compete at international events such as World Championships and the Commonwealth games. This cycling festival, which combines the spirit of our culture with the dedication and talent of our athletes, has also managed to become intimately involved with high-performing elite cyclists such as Christopher Sellier, Pan Am Championship record holder, Njisane Philip and junior high-performer Quincy Alexander, taking their involvement in cycling to a much higher level. However, the affair does not end there. Just as its business is versatile and varied, so has the Beacon’s sponsorships become equally diverse. Beacon has exploded on to the sporting scene, sponsoring sports such as gymnastics, golf, game fishing, adventure racing, sailing and even dabbling a little in dart tournaments!

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The annual gymnastics tournament, usually held in May, is hosted by the Trinidad and Tobago Gymnastics Association and seeks to build the confidence and discipline of the young female gymnasts, showcasing their talent from a very young age. The auditorium at the Woodbrook Youth Facility becomes filled with a child-like energy that electrifies and engages the spectators, creating a heady mix of warmth, ambition and pride that is as addictive as it is pervasive. Golf has always been a pet sport of the Beacon, both as a sponsored sport and the weekend activity of choice for several members of the management team. The company has supported numerous charity tournaments locally (Cotton Tree Foundation, BP and NGC tournaments). The Beacon also sponsors one of the largest in Barbados, the Beacon Barbados Golf Tournament, whose participants hail from all points across the Caribbean region and which has recently attracted the attention of local sporting legends, Brian Lara and Dwight Yorke. These tournaments encourage camaraderie and friendly competition, a direct reflection of the culture that permeates the Beacon. Moving towards the sea, the Beacon stays true to its logo, never very far away from the waters that justify its existence. Some of the young executives at the company enjoy game fishing and sailing as much as the older heads like their weekly golf game. The Wahoo Fishing Tournament is fully

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

sponsored by the Beacon each year, providing an opportunity for game fishermen to show their prowess in the water. Participants of all ages flock to the Trinidad and Tobago Yacht Club for this two-day tournament that takes the competition into the water, placing their fates in the hands of the unpredictable seas. The adrenaline rushes as the race begins between man and nature to see who will eventually emerge victorious. Extreme sports and adventure racing have, in recent years, become the latest craze for more competitive athletes. Events such as the BG Energy Challenge, Coast to Coast race and Fusion have all attracted a wide range of athletes who excel at triathlon-type sports such as swimming, running and kayaking all aimed at testing one’s endurance and pushing the limits of the human body. The Beacon has sponsored teams in both the BG Energy Challenge and Fusion, both of which are charitable events aimed at fostering teamwork whilst providing ‘a good sweat’ for the athletes among us. The Beacon has proven its versatility, its commitment to sport and its commitment to country by getting intimately involved in the development of athletes in various disciplines, at all stages. It is a company that thrives on teamwork, discipline and dedication and works hard to take these values to the wider community in the most effective and enjoyable way possible. Let the love affair flourish!

Fast Facts Fast Facts on Tobago Location Situated 32 km (21 miles) northeast of Trinidad and like its big sister Trinidad was once part of the South American continent millions of years ago. Co-ordinates are Latitude 11°N, Longitude 60°W. Climate and Geography Tobago’s climate is pleasant all year round. It is cooler and less humid than Trinidad because of the more frequent northeast winds. June to September are commonly the wettest months. Tobago’s topography is rugged, with low mountains and elevations up to a maximum of 576 m (1890 ft.). Its area is 300 square km (116 square miles). Government and Population In 1980, the Tobago House of Assembly (THA) was instituted and was made responsible for local, administrative governance within the island, with central governance remaining under the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago. The population of the island is approximately 54,000, 90 per cent of which are of African origin, with a minority East Indian presence and resident expatriates. Seaport International shipping facilities are available in Tobago at the Scarborough deep-water harbour. Traffic at this port consists mainly of cruise ships and ferry services to and from Trinidad. Locals and visitors can take the fast-ferry service between the islands. There are two fast ferries, the T&T Spirit and the T&T Express, and one slower vessel, the Warrior Spirit, which service the inter-island route. All three ferries transport both passengers and cargo. The fast ferries operate daily and take on average of 2 hours 30 minutes to/from Tobago. The slower vessel leaves daily at 2:00 p.m. with cargo, and takes 6 hours to/from Tobago. The fare for adults is TT$100 return or TT$50 one way. The charge for all private vehicles on the ferries is TT$250 (return) and TT$150 (one way). Call the Port Authority for more information at (868) 639–2668 or visit www.patnt.com. Health Tobago’s healthcare system and facilities are limited. Basic medical attention for minor ailments is available, but serious medical cases are referred to Trinidad. Medical services are free at the government hospital and health centres. Economy Tobago’s economy was initially based on agriculture but it changed focus to tourism in recent years. Trinidad still supplies most of the consumables and manufactured products. Newspapers The three Trinidad-based daily newspapers, Trinidad Guardian, Trinidad Express and Newsday are available with the Tobago News available weekly. Roads Tobago is linked via a network of paved and unpaved roads, the most significant being the Claude Noel Highway. Airport Crown Point International is the airport in Tobago and is located on the southwestern tip of the island. Renovated in 1985, it serves as the destination for several international and interisland flights. The airfare to Trinidad is TT$300 return or TT$150 one way.

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Hotels & Guest Houses in Trinidad

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HOTEL

LOCATION

TELEPHONE

E-MAIL

WEBSITE

ACAJOU HOTEL

Grand Rivière

670-3771

info@acajoutrinidad.Com

www.acajoutrinidad.com

ALICIA’S GUEST HOUSE

St. Ann’s

623-2802

info@aliciashouse.com

www.aliciashouse.com

ALICIA’S PALACE

St. Ann’s

621-1017

info@aliciaspalace.com

www.aliciaspalace.com

AMBASSADOR HOTEL

St. James

628-9000

ambassador@wow.net

www.ambassadortt.com

ASA WRIGHT NATURE CENTRE & LODGE

Arima

667-4655

asaright@tstt.net.tt

www.asawright.org

CARA SUITES HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE

Claxton Bay

659-2271/2272/2230

hassel@carahotels.com

www.carahotels.com

CARLTON SAVANNAH LIMITED

St. Ann’s

621-5000

info@thecarltonsavannah.com

www.thecarltonsavannah.com

CARNETTA’S INN

Maraval

628-2732/622-5165

carnetta@trinidad.net

www.carnettasinn.com

COBLENTZ INN BOUTIQUE HOTEL

Cascade

621-0541-4

coblentzinn@tstt.net.tt

www.coblentzinn.com

CORAL COVE MARINA HOTEL

Chaguaramas

634-2040/2244

coralcove@fiberline.tt

www.coralcovemarina.com

COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT

Port of Spain

627-5555

nicol.khelawan@courtyard.com

www.marriott.com

CREWS INN HOTEL LIMITED

Chaguaramas

634-4384

shardy@crewsinn.com

www.crewsinn.com

CROWNE PLAZA

Port of Spain

625-3361

gm@cplazahotel.com

www.cplazahotel.com

FORTY WINKS INN

Newtown

622-0484/628-0316

pam@fortywinkstt.com

www.fortywinkstt.com

HACIENDA JACANA

Trinidad

498-7597

haciendajacana@gmail.com

www.haciendajacana.com

HILTON TRINIDAD AND CONFERENCE CENTRE

Belmont

624-3211

ali.khan@hilton.com

www.hiltoncaribbean/trinidad.com

HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS HOTEL & SUITES

Trincity

669-6209

cherryanne.james@hcltt.com

www.hiexpress.com/trincitytt

HOTEL NORMANDIE

St Anns

624-1181

sales@normandiett.com

www.normandiett.com

HYATT REGENCY TRINIDAD

Port of Spain

623-2222

russell.george@hyattintl.com

www.trinidad.hyatt.com

KAPOK HOTEL

St. Clair

622-5765

gsolomon@kapokhotel.com

www.kapokhotel.com

LAGUNA MAR

Port of Spain

628-3731/669-2963

info@lagunamar.com

www.lagunamar.com

LE GRANDE ALMANDIER

Grande Rivière

670-2294/1013

info@legrandealmandier.com

www.legrandealmandier.com

L’ ORCHIDÉE BOUTIQUE HOTEL

St. Ann’s

621-0618/621-0063

reservations@trinidadhosthomes.com

www.trinidadhosthomes.com

LE SPORTEL INN

Tunapuna

645-6324/ 663-3905

cexcell@carib-link.net

MT. PLAISIR ESTATE HOTEL

Grande Rivière

670-2216/670-8381

info@mtplaisir.com

MONIQUE’S

Maraval

628-2351/3334

info@moniquestrinidad.com

www.moniquestrinidad.com

PAR MAY LA’S INN

Port of Spain

628-4707

hotelreservation@parmaylas.com

www.parmaylas.com

PARIA SUITES

La Romain

697-2742/1442/1443

info@pariasuites.com

www.pariasuites.com

PAX GUESTHOUSE

Tunapuna

662-4084

pax-g-h@trinidad.net

www.paxguesthouse.com

REGENT STAR HOTEL

Piarco

669-5050

info@regentstarhotel.com

www.regentstarhotel.com

ROCKCITY GUESTHOUSE

Las Lomas

669 9027/ 782 5071

info@rockcitytt.com

SALYBIA NATURE RESORT AND SPA

Mathura

668-5959/ 691-3211

info@salybiaresort.com

www.salybiaresort.com

SUNDECK SUITES LIMITED

Port of Spain

622-9560/1

reservations@sundecktrinidad.com

www.sundecktrinidad.com

SUNSET BEACH RESORT

Mayaro

630-5888

sunsetmayaro@gmail.com

www.sunsetbeachmayaro.com

THE ABERCROMBY INN

Port of Spain

623-5259; 627-6658

aberinn@fiberline.tt

THE CASCADIA HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE

St. Ann’s

623-3511

marketing@cascadiahotel.com

THE CHACONIA HOTEL

Maraval

628-0941/622-2346

bookme@chaconiahotel.com

www.chaconiahotel.com

THE CHANCELLOR HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE St. Ann’s

623-0883

info@thechancellorhotel.com

www.thechancellorhotel.com

THE ROYAL HOTEL (1978) LIMITED

San Fernando

652-4881

info@royalhoteltt.com

www.royalhoteltt.com

THE ROYAL PALM SUITE HOTEL

Maraval

628-6042/628-5086-9

admin@royalpalm.co.tt

www.royalpalm.co.tt

TRADEWINDS HOTEL

San Fernando

652-9463

delia@tradewindshotel.net

www.tradewindshotel.net

TRINIDAD MARACAS BAY HOTEL

Maracas

669-1643/1914

maracasbay@tstt.net.tt

www.maracasbay.com

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

www.mtplaisir.com

www.cascadiahotel.com

Hotels & Guest Houses in Tobago HOTEL

LOCATION

TELEPHONE

E-MAIL

WEBSITE

ARNOS VALE HOTEL

Plymouth

639-2881-2

reservations@arnosvalehotel.com

www.arnosvalehotel.com

BACOLET BEACH CLUB

Bacolet

639-2357

info@bacoletbeachclub.com

www.bacoletbeachclub.com

BAMBOO WALK HOTEL

Lowlands

631-0550

info@bamboo-walk.com

www.yes-tourism.com

BEING

Arnos Vale

625-4443

info@being-villaexperience.com

www.being-tobago.com

BELLEVISTE APARTMENTS

Sandy Point

639-9351

bellevis@tstt.net.tt

www.belleviste.com

BETHEL BED & BREAKFAST

Bethel

639-9775, 352-1328

islandvacation@rogers.com

www.islandvacationinn.com

BLUE HAVEN HOTEL

Scarborough

660-7400/7500/7600

reservations@bluehavenhotel.com

www.bluehavenhotel.com

BLUE WATERS INN

Speyside

660-2583

bwi@bluewatersinn.com

www.bluewatersinn.com

CHOLSON CHALETS

Charlotteville

639-8553

cholsonchaletsltd@yahoo.com

www.cholsonchalets.com

COCO REEF RESORT & SPA

Crown Point

639-8571

cocoreef-tobago@trinidad.net

www.cocoreef.com

CORAL SEA VILLAS & SEA SHELLS VACATION VILLAS Crown Point

639-9600

info@coralseavillastobago.com

www.seashellsvillas.com

CROWN POINT BEACH HOTEL

Crown Point

639-8781-3

reservations@crownpointbeachhotel.com

www.crownpointbeachhotel.com

CUFFIE RIVER NATURE RETREAT

Runnemede

660-0505

cuffiriv@tstt.net.tt

www.cuffie-river.com

GOLDEN THISTLE APARTMENTS

Crown Point

639-8521/639-7060

goldenthistle@tstt.net.tt

www.goldenthistlehotel.com

GRAFTON BEACH RESORT

Black Rock

639-0191

grafton@singhs.com

www.graftonbeachresorttobago.com

HALF MOON BLUE

Bacolet

639-3551

info@bacoletbeachclub.com

www.halfmoonblue.com

HIBISCUS HEIGHTS

Pleasant Prospect 635-1481

gillian@hibiscusheights.com

www.hibiscusheights.com

J&G TROPICAL RESORT

Bon Accord

759-9776

JOHNSTON APARTMENTS

Store Bay

639-8915/631-5160-2

johnapt@tstt.net.tt

www.johnstonapartments.com

KARIWAK VILLAGE

Crown Point

639-8442

kariwak@tstt.net.tt

www.kariwak.com www.legrandtobago.com

jandgtropicalvillas@gmail.com

LE GRAND COURLAN RESORT & SPA

Black Rock

639-9667

legrand@singhs.com

LAGOON LODGE

Bon Accord

680-9776

lagoonlodgetobago@gmail.com

MANTA LODGE

Speyside

660-5268

mlodge@tstt.net.tt

www.mantalodge.com

MT. IRVINE BAY HOTEL & GOLF CLUB

Mt. Irvine

639-8871-3

mtirvine@tstt.net.tt

www.mtirvine.com

NABUCCO RESORT SPEYSIDE INN Speyside 660-4852

nabuccooresort@speysideinn.com, speyside@extradivers.info

www.speysideinn.com

NATIVE ABODE BED & BREAKFAST

Bon Accord

631-1285, 298-4881

stay@nativabode.com

www.nativeabode.com

MT. IRVINE BAY HOTEL

Mt. Irvine

639-8871-3

mtirvine@tstt.net.tt

www.mtirvine.com

NICOVILLE

Charlottville

639-8553

cholsonchaletsltd@yahoo.com

www.cholsonchalets.com

PALMHAVEN

Patience Hill

660-7307/639-9600

kayocallaghan@hotmail.com

www.palmhaven.com

PETIT CAREME VILLA

Mt. Irvine

632-4608/639-9213

merilee@petitcareme.com

www.petitcareme.com

PLANTATION BEACH VILLAS

Black Rock

639-9377

plantationbeach@tstt.net.tt

www.plantationbeachvillas.com

PLANTATION CONDO

Lowlands

625-1563

rental@17b-tobago.com

RAINBOW NATURE RESORT Goldborough 660-6715 rainbownatureresort@tstt.net.tt

www.17b-tobago.com www.mytobago.info/guesthouses/ rainbow-nature-resort.htm

SANDY POINT BEACH CLUB

Crown Point

639-0820/0877

reservations@sandypointbeachclub.com

www.sandypointbeachclub.com

SOL Y MAR

Mt. Irvine

639-9600/639-8842

villas@tstt.net.tt

www.tobagovilla.com

SULLIVAN’S COURT

Buccoo

639-0891

sullivanscourt_tobago@live.com

www.sullivanstobago.com

SUNSHINE HOLIDAY APARTMENT LIMITED

Bon Accord

639-7482/639-7495

sunapt@tstt.net.tt

www.sunshine-apartments-tobago.com

SUNSPREE RESORT

Crown Point

631-5195/ 631-5196

sunspreeresort@gmail.com

www.sunspreeresort.net

SURF SIDE HOTEL

Crown Point

639-0614

reservation@surfsidetobago.com

www.surfsidetobago.com

TARA’S BEACH HOUSE

Lambeau Village

639-1556

info@tarasbeachhouse.com

www.tarasbeachhouse.com

THE HUMMINGBIRD HOTEL

Crown Point

635-0241

thehummingbird@tstt.net.tt

www.hummingbirdtobago.com

THE PALMS VILLA RESORT

Signal Hill

635-1010

info@thepalmstobago.com

www.thepalmstobago.com

THE VILLAS AT STONEHAVEN

Black Rock

639-0361

stonehav@tstt.net.tt

www.stonehavenvillas.com

TOBAGO ISLAND SUITES

Mt. Irvine

www.tobagosuites.com

639-0979/ 631-1838

friends@tobagosuites.com

TOBAGO PLANTATIONS BEACH AND GOLF RESORT Lowlands

631-1054

rentals@tobagoplantations.com

www.tobagoplantations.com

TOUCAN INN & BONKERS

Crown Point

639-7173/0332/8993

bonkers@trinidad.net

www.toucan-inn.com

TROPIKIST BEACH HOTEL & RESORT

Crown Point

639-8512-3

tropikist@wow.net

www.tropikist.com

res.tbhtob@rexresorts.net, gm.tbhtab @rexresorts.net

www.rexresorts.com

TURTLE BEACH HOTEL Courland Bay 639-2851

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Index A/B Acajou Hotel AD Travel Ltd Adams Bagels Adrian Camps-Campins Angelo’s Italian Restaurant Another Idea Limited Asa Wright Nature Centre Auto Rentals B Lounge B.A.R.S. International Backyard Café BALLY Bamboo Walk Hotel Bambú Banwari Experience Battimamzelle Belleviste Benihana Blue Haven Hotel Blue Waters Inn Bois Cano Bombay Duck Buffet King Restaurant Burger King

106 62 128 56 120, 121 111 63 9 130 111 195 97 186 48 62 126 184 118, 119 182 184 114 126 127 131

C/D Carvalho’s Agencies 62 Café Coco 197 Café Havana 197 Canoe Bay Beach Resort 189 Cara Suites Hotel and Conference Centre 103 Carib Brewery Limited 46 Caribbean Discovery Tours 62 Caribbean Estates, Lands & Villas 171 Chaud Creole 130 Chaud Restaurant 120, 121 Ciao Café Italian Food & Wine Bar 196 Ciao Pizza 196 Classic Tours & Travel 62 Coblentz Inn 105 Coco Reef 187 Courtyard by Marriott Inside Front Cover, 100 Crown Point Beach Hotel 188 Cynthia McLean 57

E/F/G El Pecos Grill Eat It Restaurant Ellerslie Plaza Excellent City Centre Excellent Stores Fine Art Fracture & Orthopaedic Clinic Frankie Tours & Rentals Frontier Divers Ltd Gaby Beston Edwards Gail’s Exclusive Tour Services Ltd Guardian Holding Limited (GHL)

128 130 43 51 17 57 97 163 146 56 62 1

H/I/J

Häagen-Dazs Hacienda Jacana Hakka Restaurant & Bar Hard Play Fishing Limited

202

114, 115 104 116, 117 146

Hershey’s 41 Hilton Trinidad and Conference Centre 100, 101 Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites 106, 107 Hong Wing & Sons Ltd 21 House of Jaipur Indian Lifestyle and Tearoom 127 In Joy Tours 62 Ines Arenas 15 Irie Bites 129 Island Experiences 62 Island Girl Sail Charters 146 Island Investments 171 Jade Monkey 179 James Armstrong 55 Jason Nedd 57 Johnston Apartments 188 Joseph’s 116, 117 Junya Craigwell 56 Justin Sobion 56

K-S Kaizan Sushi Kam Wah Kapok Hotel Kariwak Hotel Khalaloo Bowl L’Orchidée Boutique Hotel La Tropicale Flower Shop Lagoon Lodge Le Grande Almandier LeVels Ultrabar & Lounge Lime-Inn Lisa Hutchinson Malabar Farms Gourmet Martini Makers Mélange Restaurant (Trinidad) Migun Centre Monique’s More Sushi More Vino MovieTowne Mt Irvine Bay Hotel and Golf Club Mt. Plaisir Estate Hotel Nanans Bird Sanctuary Tours On Location Art Galleries Limited Palki Restaurant Paria Springs Pavilion Restaurant Peppercorns Plantation Beach Villas Popeye’s R.I.K. Services Limited Rain Property Management Ltd Rainy Days Ray Cool RBC/RBTT Bank Regent Star Hotel Rene Sound & Vision Republic Bank Limited Rovanel’s Resort Royal Hotel (1978) Limited Royalton Casino Ruby Tuesday Sandy Point Beach Club Scuba Adventure Safari Sensational Tours

The Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago

124, 125 119 101 194, 195 19 102 111 189 102 129 128 55 49 111 114 97 104 126 126 45, 166 190 104, 105 62 57 120, 121 62 194 51 190 131 51 171 48 17 86, 87 103 111 90, 91 182, 183 106, 107 199 122, 123 186 146 62

Shandy Carib 46 Sherman’s Auto Rentals & Ground Tours 163 Shore Things 195 Shutters on the Bay 197 Signature Selection 47 Soong’s Great Wall 116, 117 Sounds of Shoes & Sandals 40 St. Ives 96 Standards Distributors 41 Stechers 5 Subway 124, 125 Sunset Beach Resort 105 Sunset Palm & Jade Monkey Club 179 Sunspree Resort 188 SuperPharm Limited 44 Surf Side Hotel 190

T-Z Taryn’s, The Panyol Place 131 The Art Gallery 167 The Backyard Café 195 The Beacon Insurance Company Limited Inside Back Cover The Gem Shop 17 The New Rasam 127 The Pathmaster 62 The Pavilion Restaurant 194 The Rental Centre 110 The Royal Hotel (1978) Limited 106, 107 The Royal Palm Suite Hotel 102, 103 The Shade Night Club and Restaurant 179, 194 The Travel Centre 62 The Verandah 118 Things Natural 167 Tiki Village 114 Tobago Grillers 196 Tobago House of Assembly (THA) 136 Tobago Island Suites 186 Tobago Now Tourism Services 163 Tobago Plantations 172 Tobago Travel 62 Tomley Roberts 55 Toxic Boutique Company Ltd 40 Tradewinds Hotel 98, Outside Back Cover Trinidad & Tobago Sightseeing Tours 62 Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau 13, 92 Trinidad and Tobago Incoming Tour Operators Association (TTITOA) 62 Tropikist Beach Hotel & Resort Limited 182, 183 TWEE 49 Valsayn Luxury Spa 97 Veni Mangé Restaurant 118 Villa Petrus 171 Villas at Stonehaven 184, 185 Vintage Imports Wine Merchants 49 WestMall 42 Wok Hay 122, 123 Woodford Café 122, 123 Xceptional Events Limited 111 Yes! Tourism 62, 163 Ylang Ylang Sea Terrace 129 Zanzibar 124, 125 Zippers 48 Zoom Caribbean 166