Ins&Ou t s
OFTRI NI DAD & TOBAGO 2014
Credits Project Co-ordinators Patricia Lewis Marie Gurley
Advertising Sales
Patricia Lewis Marie Gurley Betti Gillezeau Zachary Tardieu
Editor
Roslyn Carrington
Layout
Soraya Gonsalves Patricia Lewis Sally Miller
Design
Tao Howard Miller Publishing
Production Jessica Medina
THE INS & OUTS OF TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO 2014 The Exclusively Recommended In-Room Guide of The Trinidad Hotels, Restaurants & Tourism Association and the Tobago Hotel and Tourism Association.
Production Assistants Nichele West-Broome Jennifer Gittens
Photographers
Aujourd’hui Studio Christopher Anderson Edison Boodoosingh Stephen Broadbridge Oswin M Browne CaféMoka Gallery Sarah Carter Derek Chung Brent Denoon Abraham Diaz Sean Drakes Janet Fabres Martin Farinha Inken Janning Joshua Joseph Kevin Kenny Patricia Lewis Chris Morvan Maria Nunes Gregory Scott Peter Sheppard Ayanna Young Catholic News Archives Government Information Services Ltd. Little Carib Theatre Paria Publishing
Writers
Gérard A. Besson Edward Bowen Roslyn Carrington Derek Chung Sean Drakes Darren Farfan Lisa Ghany Dawn Glaisher Khafra Khambon Keith Lewis Aba A. Luke Chris Morvan Ruth Osman Courtenay Rooks Sheldon Waithe Katy Young Trinidad Hotels, Restaurants and Tourism Association (THRTA) Emperor Valley Zoo Published by Caribbean Tourism Publications Ltd. #9 Humphrey Street The Film Centre, St. James Trinidad and Tobago Tel: (868) 622-0738/9 Fax: (868) 622-0426 E-mail: info@insandoutstt.com Website: www.insandoutstt.com While every care has been taken in the compilation of information contained in this guide, such information is subject to change without notice. The publishers accept no responsibility for such changes. Copyright © 2014 Caribbean Tourism Publications. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher. All rights reserved. Printed in Panama.
2 •
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
The Ins and Outs is widely distributed locally to visitors through hotel rooms, villas, guesthouses and restaurants. It reaches residents through select merchants, conferences, seminars and business organisations. T&T’s overseas diplomatic missions and World Travel Market form part of the international distribution. Trinidad Cover Artist
Ryan Williams Self-taught commercial and fine artist, Ryan Williams, grew up in Port of Spain, where he was exposed to the quaint old-world beauty of city architecture and the bustle and excitement of activity in the city’s major parks and playing fields. His media include pen and ink, oils, acrylics and watercolours, and he has experimented with different styles, including abstract, impressionism and expressionism. He has captured a wide range of subjects on canvas, such as landscapes, seascapes, sports, and everyday life and culture in T&T. He has participated in group exhibitions as well as a few solo exhibitions. Tel: (868) 622-3403 Tobago Cover Artist
Joanna Humphrey Aldred Joanna works in a range of media, including oils, watercolours, and ceramics. She is known for her paintings of T&T’s rainforest, coastlines and colonial buildings. Like her mother, Helen Humphrey, she has also designed Carnival costumes. Formally trained at the Laguna Beach School of Art in California, she has also attended a Painting From Nature course under renowned bird illustrator, Arthur Singer, at the Asa Wright Nature Centre. Her work is often likened to that of 19th Century painter, Michel Jean Cazabon. Joanna has exhibited in Trinidad and in London; one of her paintings hangs in the Vatican. She lives in England in the historic market town of Stamford, Lincolnshire. Tel: +44 (0) 177-856-1545 Email: aldred.jo@gmail.com Web: joannaaldred.com
FLO WI NG Lladr贸 has captured the flowing movements of the foxtrot in a piece that makes us feel the rhythm of this elegant ballroom dance. Precise modelling and domain of balance go hand in hand in this limited edition porcelain handcrafted at the Lladr贸 workshops in Valencia - Spain.
www.lladro.com
Elegant Foxtrot 37 x 36 cm Limited edition
Exclusively available at Stechers Piarco (868) 669-1644/4793, Long Circular Mall (868) 622-0017 and Gulf City Mall (868) 657-6993
Photo: Edison Boodoosingh
TRINIDAD
Contents
6 Feature 12 Calendar 24 Festivals 26 34 38
Carnival Indian Festivals Emancipation Day
40 Shopping 52 60
Art and Craft Health and Beauty
64 Exploring 66 70 74
Touring Beaches Sights
80 Business 88 Accommodation 99 Table of Hotels & Guest Houses Photo: Christopher Anderson
100 Entertainment 102 Nightlife 104 Music 106 Sports
110 Special Events 112 Restaurants 134 Fast Facts Photo: Edison Boodoosingh
4 •
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
Festivals 138
Heritage Festival
140
Features 142
A Turbulent & Fertile Land where anything was possible - Tobago Horses Help Heal Body, Mind and Soul Curry Crab and Dumplin’
143 169 187
Touring 144
Sights 146 A Walk in the Timeless Forest 148 Fort King George 149 Beaches 150
TOBAGO
Contents
Photo: Inken Janning
Shopping 152 Property 156 Entertainment 160
Tobago Jazz Experience 162 Tobago Fashion Weekend 166 Weddings 167 Sports 170 Diving 174
Photo: Edison Boodoosingh
Accommodation 176
Table of Guest Houses and Hotels
196
Restaurants 188
Photo: Aujourd’hui Studio
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
• 5
Photo: Christopher Anderson
Photo: Christopher Anderson
Photo: Christopher Anderson
6 •
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
C
ONSERVATION OF BUILT HERITAGE Photo: Gregory Scott
HERITAGE
Feature
Magnificent Seven – Archbishop’s House Photo: Peter Sheppard
8 •
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
Conservation of Built Heritage in Trinidad By Darren Farfan
Trinidad and Tobago enjoys a growing reputation as a vibrant and dynamic destination, renowned for its rich cultural diversity, abundant natural beauty, and fascinating history. Reinforcing this reputation is an impressive array of historic buildings and heritage sites that have endured despite the ravages of time. Adorned in decorative architectural details and steeped in local history, these sites are as inspirational as they are educational, providing windows through which one can peer into the past, to gain a greater understanding of where this nation has come from, and an appreciation of where it may be headed. Perhaps the best known and most easily accessible of these heritage sites is called “the Magnificent Seven,” a row of seven distinctive mansions at the northwest corner of the Queen’s Park Savannah, itself a precious heritage site dating back to the early 1800s, and which continues to play a significant role in defining the unique character of Port of Spain. Constructed around the year 1904, the eclectic collection of colonial mansions (from north to south) are: Killarney or Stollmeyer’s Castle, Whitehall, Archbishop’s House, Roomor, Mille Fleurs, Hayes Court, and Queen’s Royal College. While the “Magnificent Seven” tend to be the primary focus of casual and curious visitors alike, there are hundreds of remarkable treasures to be discovered in and around the capital, and indeed, throughout the island. These sites are as diverse as they are dispersed, a reflection of the multicultural population that makes up this fascinating society. From imposing stately buildings such as the Red House on the western edge of Woodford Square and Fort George in St. James, to quaint privately owned properties such as the Ortinola Great House in Maracas Valley, St Joseph, visitors can get a sense of the breadth of European aristocratic and colonial influences on local culture. There are also numerous sacred buildings representing the influence of three of the world’s main religions. Some remarkable examples include the Christian church of Our Lady of Montserrat, located in the village of Tortuga, in the Central Range. This picturesque pilgrimage church was completed in 1878, making it one of the oldest wooden churches in the country. The Shiva Mandir in Reform Village and the Temple on the Sea at Waterloo are two important Hindu sites of worship and the Jinnah Memorial Mosque in St. Joseph is a striking example of traditional Islamic architecture. Individually and collectively, these heritage sites are invaluable cultural treasures that must be safeguarded for the benefit of current and future generations. Their style, charm and enduring grace are often in stark contrast to the ultramodern structures that threaten to overwhelm the landscape. Standing against the forces of dereliction and contemporary commercialization, many of these historic buildings are under constant threat of being torn down and replaced by modern designs that demonstrate scant cultural sensitivity. Thankfully, concerted and sustained conservation efforts are being made. Spearheading these efforts is an NGO called Citizens for Conservation (CFC). Formed in 1985, the organization is comprised of a wide group of concerned
Lady of Montserrat RC Church, Tortuga Roman Catholic Church, Mayaro Road, Tortuga Photo: CafĂŠMoka Gallery
Feature citizens with a common passion and commitment for the conservation of T&T’s man-made heritage assets. The group was instrumental in drafting the National Trust Act, which was enacted in 1999 with establishment of the National Trust of Trinidad and Tobago. More recently, CFC established a national committee of the International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICAMOS,) an international NGO that works for the conservation of monuments and sites worldwide, and advises UNESCO regarding World Heritage listings. This has provided the CFC with access to international expertise and resources that have significantly strengthened their capacity to fulfil their mission. President of CFC, Mrs. Rudylynn De Four Roberts, is also the lead architect on a number of recent high-profile renovation projects, including Queen’s Royal Collage and Knowsley House, which currently houses the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, as well as the ongoing restoration of the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception in the heart of Port of Spain. With cautious optimism, Rudylynn believes that while “the country is moving closer to protecting these heritage sites, and although much progress has been made, we are not at the point we need to be, especially in relation to other Caribbean islands.” With a growing sense of urgency, she emphasizes that “heritage tourism is experiencing tremendous growth globally and we need to recognize and respond to these opportunities.” Indeed, culture and heritage sites do offer tourists something more than the stereotypical “sun, sea and sand” Caribbean experience. Heritage tourists come to be expanded, not to withdraw. They seek to explore and understand a nation’s cultural nuances and influences, and, in so doing, forge deeper connections with the places they visit. This is a concept that Rudylynn firmly believes in, as she states, “Tourists want to see character, things that are indigenous to the country they are visiting. These types of tourists tend to stay longer and spend more, which benefits everyone.” With a hint of concern, she adds, “People expect to see these sites being treated with dignity and respect. The way we keep our home demonstrates the things we value as a society.” Thanks to the tireless efforts of groups like the CFC and their local and international collaborators, evidence of progress is now becoming visible. The National Trust has recently published a list of 362 heritage sites that are being considered for protection under the National Trust Act. To the delight of locals and visitors alike, some of these key sites are in the final stage of becoming protected by law and will be put forward to be considered by UNESCO for World Heritage Site status. Adding to this success, Government has initiated emergency stabilization work on a number of endangered sites such as Mille Fleur and President’s House, and much-needed funding has been allocated to the long-term restoration and maintenance of the nation’s most critical and precious heritage buildings. Other notable projects include the establishment of a Sugar Heritage Village and Museum on the Brechin Castle Estate in Couva, and the further development of the Lopinot village area, already a popular heritage site. For many, these successes are positive signs for the future of T&T as a developing nation. They help to create the vision of a progressive society aspiring to achieve a level of sustainable development that is deeply rooted in the cherished cultural values and traditions of the past. For more information on heritage sites of interest, visit the Citizens for Conservation website: http://citizensforconservationtt.org or their selfnamed Facebook group, or browse the Facebook page of the National Trust. And as a souvenir, be sure to pick up a copy of the beautiful book, “The Built Heritage of Trinidad and Tobago – Celebrating 50 Years of Independence with 50 Heritage Sites,” produced expertly by Geoffrey MacLean on behalf of the National Trust of Trinidad and Tobago. Roomor, one of the Magnificent Seven Photo: Gregory Scott
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Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
Calendar
The Honourable Kamla PersadBissessar Prime Minister of the Republic of Trinidad & Tobago
Photo Courtesy: Office of the Prime Minister
The nation’s sixth Prime Minister, the Honourable Kamla Persad-Bissessar also holds the distinction of becoming the first woman to have been voted into this office. A proud University of the West Indies alumni, she initially entered the teaching profession before becoming a full-time attorney. In 1987, she became involved in politics as an alderman, progressing to become an MP in 1995, with stints as Minister of Education, Attorney General and Leader of the Opposition; all pioneering positions for any Trinbagonian woman. In a continuing trend of many “firsts”, she was the initial female Commonwealth Chairperson, and has twice addressed the United Nations General Council General Assembly, outlining concerns for the Caribbean region. She continues to break the barriers of tradition in Trinidad & Tobago.
January 1
New Year’s Day – Public Holiday
1
Sian’s Gold Sprint (GRII) www.santarosapark.com
4
TRIBE I.C.E. – www.carnivaltribe. com or www.ultimateeventstt.com
9-12 The Caribbean Connection Internationall Golf Tournament Plantation Golf Course, Tobago brendon.gray27@gmail.com (868) 681-0754 (868) 487-6461
12 •
18 Stumped!!! – www.carnivaltribe. com or www.ultimateeventstt.com
26 River Raid VI Mountain Bike Race www.rainbowtri.com
18-19 St. Andrew’s Golf Club Tatil/AMBL – www.golftrinidad.com
30-31 National Panorama Single Pan Preliminaries www.pantrinbago.co.tt
19
Soca in Moka – All Inclusive Trinity College, Maraval (868) 629-2078
25
Caribbean Turf Championship (GRIII R) – www.santarosapark.com
25
ONE Fete – www.carnivaltribe.com or www.ultimateeventstt.com
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
JANUARY / FEBRUARY TBA Soca Under the Samaan Tree Old Market Square, Tobago (868) 639-3437
Calendar
The Mighty Sparrow Slinger Francisco
Photo: Stephen Broadbridge
Slinger Francisco is known by the sobriquet The Mighty Sparrow, as well as “Birdie” and the Calypso King of the World. He is also an accomplished guitarist and songwriter. He has captured many of the top accolades in the various calypso competitions, including the prestigious Road March and Calypso Monarch competitions eight times each. His calypsoes have covered every imaginable topic, including social and political events. Two of his more memorable calypsoes are Jean and Dinah and Education.
February 1-3
National Panorama Single Pan Preliminaries www.pantrinbago.co.tt
17
National Extempo Preliminary Queen’s Park Savannah www.tucott.com
3-5 Trinidad and Tobago Energy Conference www.ttenergyconference.org
18 National Junior Panorama Preliminary www.pantrinbago.co.tt
6
National Panorama Small and Medium Preliminaries www.pantrinbago.co.tt
20 St. Andrew’s Golf Club Corona Ladies Stableford www.golftrinidad.com
8
22
Blue Flame All Inclusive www.carnivaltribe.com or www.ultimateeventstt.com 14
Valentine’s Day
15
Central Bank The Ultimate Experience XIV All Inclusive Eric Williams Plaza, Port of Spain
“Calypso Fiesta” National Calypso Monarch Semi-Final Skinner Park, San Fernando www.tucott.com
24 Arima Panorama www.pantrinbago.co.tt 25 Rapso Explosion NALIS Amphitheatre www.tucott.com 26
“Entertainers Fete” Calypsonians Welfare Fundraiser The Paddock, Queen’s Park Savannah – www.tucott.com
26 LIME All Inclusive Hyatt Regency Trinidad www.ultimatelime.com (868) 821-6443
22-23 St. Andrew’s Golf Club Svelty Ladies Open www.golftrinidad.com
27 TRIBE Ignite www.carnivaltribe.com or www.ultimateeventstt.com
23
Wet & Wild The Carnival Foam & Wet Party! www.spacetrinidad.com
27
23
National Panorama Medium and Large Semi Finals www.pantrinbago.co.tt
National Junior Panorama Finals www.pantrinbago.co.tt
24
28
16 Red Ants Pan Posse www.carnivaltribe.com or www.ultimateeventstt.com
National Junior Calypso Monarch Finals – Grand Stand, Queen’s Park Savannah – www.tucott.com
24
“Magnificent Monday” Kaisorama Grand Stand, Queen’s Park Savannah – www.tucott.com
28 Blue Range Cooler Fete www.carnivaltribe.com or www.ultimateeventstt.com
15 National Panorama Single Pan and Small Semi Finals www.pantrinbago.co.tt 16
14 •
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
“Terrific Thursday” National Calypso Monarch Final Grand Stand, Queen’s Park Savannah www.tucott.com International Soca Monarch Finals Hasely Crawford Stadium www.socamonarch.net
Calendar
Jit Samaroo
Photo Courtesy: Government Information Services Ltd.
Jit Samaroo is steelpan’s most accomplished arranger/ composer. Under his direction, the Renegades steelband won the title of Champion Large Steelband a record nine times between 1982 and 1997. He is regarded as musical genius, but his failing health saw him handing over the reins to his son, Amrit, in 2009. The family band The Samaroo Kids became the Samaroo Jets, recording its first album in 1975, titled The Samaroo Family Steel Orchestra Classics, featuring the works of Mendelssohn and Prokofiev. He has travelled globally with Renegades, taking T&T’s national instrument to far-off places such as Italy, Israel, Morocco, India, Brazil, La Reunion, Madagascar, Jordan, Japan and France, where he performed before huge audiences.
March 1
Beginning of Leatherback TurtleWatching Season
1
Junior Parade of the Bands www.ncbatt.com
Angostura’s Global Cocktail Challenge 2014 www.angostura.com
3
Red Ants J’Ouvert – J’Ouvert morning www.carnivaltribe.com or www.ultimateeventstt.com
3
Carnival Monday Parade of Bands www.ncctt.org or www.ncbatt.com
4
Carnival Tuesday Parade of Bands www.ncctt.org or www.ncbatt.com
2
2 2
St. Andrew’s Golf Club Carnival Fete 4-6 Tobago Carnival Regatta Festival of Wind www.golftrinidad.com Pigeon Point, Tobago Dimanche Gras nikib@tstt.net.tt or (868) 741-9135 Queen’s Park Savannah
3 J’Ouvert Bands www.ncbatt.com
5
Ash Wednesday
12-16 St. Andrew’s Golf Club 107th T+T Open www.golftrinidad.com
22
Flamingo Stakes (GRII R C&G) www.santarosapark.com
29 Starlight Stakes (GRIII R) www.santarosapark.com 30
Spiritual Baptist Liberation Day Public Holiday
30
RWTC Mini Duathlon & 1 Lap Run www.rainbowtri.com
TBA TTGFA Annual “WAHOO” Game Fishing Tournament www.ttgfa.com info@ttgfa.com (868) 632-6608
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
• 15
Calendar
Brian Lara With an amazing appetite for runs that yielded world record scores of 375, 501* and 400*, the prodigy of West Indies cricket surpassed all expectations and stunned the world. Brian Charles Lara sent Trinbagonians into ecstasy in 1994, and there they remained for the next thirteen years until the gallant left-handed batsmen announced his retirement. As West Indies captain, he delivered a long overdue win, with a nail-biting victory in the 2004 Champions Trophy. “Genius” and “flair” are the words most associated with his demolition of bowling attacks the world over, and he has inspired the current generation of Trinabagonian cricketing gems. The type of player that comes along once every five generations, he rightly remains the “Prince of Port of Spain”.
April 5
Jazz Artists on the Greens The Greens at Farm Road, St. Joseph www.jaotg.com or (868) 620-6920
5-6 St. Andrew’s Golf Club Sagicor St. Andrews Invitational www.golftrinidad.com 5-6 High Sierra/Excellent Stores Dragon Boat Festival Chagville, Chaguaramas www.ttdbf.webs.com
16 •
18
Good Friday – Public Holiday
18-20 SONFEST www.visittobago.gov.tt 19-27 Tobago Jazz Experience www.visittobago.gov.tt/ jazzexperience 21
Easter Monday – Public Holiday
21 Easter Guineas (GRI R) www.santarosapark.com 22
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
Buccoo Village Council’s Goat &
27
Crab Race Festival St. Andrew’s Golf Club Rotary Club Charity Golf www.golftrinidad.com
29-30 Annual International “Marlin Madness” Game Fishing Tournament Pigeon Point, Heritage Park, Tobago www.ttgfa.com; info@ttgfa.com or (868) 632-6608
Calendar
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
• 17
Calendar
Eric Williams
Photo Courtesy: Government Information Services Ltd.
Oxford scholar, activist, author, historian, statesman, Prime Minister and “Father of the Nation”; the name Eric Eustace Williams is forever inscribed in the annals of Trinidad & Tobago as the man that led the nation to independence from colonial rule. As leader for T&T’s first nineteen years, until he passed away in office, he oversaw the twin islands’ development into an industrial giant based on its mineral wealth, while implementing policies such as free education and local commercial banking. His legacy lives on.
May & June MAY 1-3
25 Annual International “Marlin Madness” Game Fishing Tournament – Pigeon Point, Heritage Park, Tobago www.ttgfa.com; info@ttgfa.com or (868) 632-6608
3
St. Andrew’s Golf Club SAGC Corporate – www.golftrinidad.com
4
Point Fortin Borough Celebrations Dragon Boat Regatta Guapo Beach/Clifton Hill, Point Fortin – www.ttdbf.webs.com
10
Derek Cozier Classic (GRIII R) www.santarosapark.com
11
Mothers’ Day
11
St. Andrew’s Golf Club Maple Leaf Golf Tournament www.golftrinidad.com
14-18 19th Annual Tobago International Game Fishing Tournament www.tigft.com 16-18 Tobago Fashion Weekend www.visittobago.gov.tt 23
18 •
St. Andrew’s Golf Club Scotiabank – Fight against Breast Cancer – www.golftrinidad.com
28
30
St. Andrew’s Golf Club Ventures Charity Golf Tournament www.golftrinidad.com St. Andrew’s Golf Club Cotton Tree Foundation Charity Golf www.golftrinidad.com Indian Arrival Day – Public Holiday www.ncictt.com or (868) 671-6241
30 Mid Summer Classic (GRI R) www.santarosapark.com 30-31 Salsa Fiesta 2014 Caribbean Salsa Congress www.salsafiestatnt.com or (868) 471-5898 JUNE 1
Salsa Fiesta 2014 Caribbean Salsa Congress – www.salsafiestatnt.com or (868) 471-5898
6-14 WeBeat Festival – St. James www.webeat.org or (868) 622-7622 14-15 Pigeon Point “Xtreme” Dragon Boat Festival – Heritage Park, Pigeon Point, Tobago – www.ttdbf.webs. com
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
19
Corpus Christi – Public Holiday
19
Labour Day – Public Holiday
20
Arima Race Club (GRII) www.santarosapark.com
20-22 San Fernando Fashion Week www.sanfernandofashionweek. webs.com or (868) 722-6059; (868) 335-4155 27-29 Charlotteville Fisherman’s Festival www.visittobago.gov.tt 28
10th Annual Neal & Massy Rainbow Cup www.rainbowtri.com
28
Gleneagle Stakes (GRII F) www.santarosapark.com
29
St. Andrew’s Golf Club SAGC Junior Monthly Medal www.golftrinidad.com
MAY / JUNE TBA Tobago Free Diving Spearfishing Challenge phillipalmandoz@yahoo.com (868) 684-3440 TBA Culinary Festival 2014 www.visittobago.gov.tt
Calendar
Solomon Hochoy
Photo Courtesy: Government Information Services Ltd.
Sir Solomon Hochoy holds the distinction of becoming the first non-white Governor in the entire British Empire. Hochoy’s Hakka Chinese background emphasised T&T’s diversity. He worked his way up through the civil service ranks to become Labour Commissioner, and was eventually knighted in 1959. As Governor, he was integral to the workings that led to the nation’s independence in 1962. He then served as the Governor General for the next ten years, after which he retired, having worked tirelessly for the country’s progression.
July & August JULY
28
Eid-ul-Fitr – Public Holiday www.ncictt.com or (868) 671-6241
4-6 Speyside Fisherman Festival www.visittobago.gov.tt
30
Emancipation Support Committee of Trinidad & Tobago’s “Kaiso Fuh So” Lidj Yasu Omowale Emancipation Village – kkambon.esc@gmail.com
5-6 Tobago Motor Rally www.visittobago.gov.tt 6
St. Andrew’s Golf Club TTMCO Golf Tournament www.golftrinidad.com
11-31 Tobago Heritage Festival www.tobagoheritagefestival.com 20 26
27
27
Pre-Emancipation Blessing of the Ground – Lidj Yasu Omowale Emancipation Village kkambon.esc@gmail.com
30-31 Great Fete Weekend www.sandboxentertainment.com TBA Annual Junior Angler Fishing Tournament www.ttgfa.com; info@ttgfa.com or (868) 632-6608
1
Cultural Programme – Lidj Yasu Omowale Emancipation Village kkambon.esc@gmail.com
1
Flambeau Parade – Lidj Yasu Omowale Emancipation Village to All Stars kkambon.esc@gmail.com
1
T & T Breeders Classic (GRI R T&T) www.santarosapark.com
1 President’s Cup (GRII) www.santarosapark.com 2
AUGUST
1 Tobago Heritage Festival Grand Opening of The Emancipation www.tobagoheritagefestival.com Village – Lidj Yasu Omowale 1-3 Great Fete Weekend Emancipation Village www.sandboxentertainment.com kkambon.esc@gmail.com 1 Emancipation Day Emancipation Support Committee – Public Holiday of Trinidad and Tobago’s Food Fair www.panafricanfestival.org & Family Day – Lidj Yasu Omowale 1 Emancipation Support Committee Emancipation Village of Trinidad and Tobago’s Drum Call kkambon.esc@gmail.com Trinidad All Stars Pan Yard Emancipation Support Committee kkambon.esc@gmail.com of Trinidad and Tobago’s Rhythms Emancipation Support Committee and Voices of the People – Lidj Yasu 1 of Trinidad and Tobago’s Kambule Omowale Emancipation Village kkambon.esc@gmail.com kkambon.esc@gmail.com
Emancipation Support Committee of Trinidad and Tobago’s International Steelband Festival kkambon.esc@gmail.com
15-17 Annual International “Tarpon Thunder” Game Fishing Tournament www.ttgfa.com; info@ttgfa.com or (868) 632-6608 23
Carib Power Boat Great Race michael@tychett.com or (868) 684-0459
23
The Woodbrook/St. James Community Association’s Pan on D’ Avenue 3 – Ariapita Avenue allima.garcia@gmail.com
31
Independence Day – Public Holiday
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
• 19
Calendar
Beryl McBurnie
Photo Courtesy: Little Carib Theatre
Beryl Eugenia McBurnie, “La Belle Rosette”, was born on November 2nd,1913, the eldest of five siblings. She developed what eventually grew into the Little Carib Theatre of today, to pursue the elevation of the folklore dance culture of the whole Caribbean. She was instrumental in the establishment of the Jamaica National Dance Theatre, and should also be credited with being one of the first people to put the steelband on stage, at her own theatre. Dr. Beryl Eugenia McBurnie, T.C., HBM, O.B.E., passed on March 30th 2000.
September & October SEPTEMBER 1
Independence Cup (GRI) www.santarosapark.com
7 St. Andrew’s Golf Club TTGA Corporate Tournament www.golftrinidad.com 16-30 9th Annual Trinidad + Tobago Film Festival www.ttfilmfestival.com
29-30 Tobago International Cycling Classic jeffreycharles57@hotmail.com or (868) 680-1214
16
World Food Day
24
Divali (Festival of Lights) – Public Holiday www.ncictt.com or (868) 671-6241
OCTOBER
24
The Woodbrook/St. James Community Association’s Divali at Harvard Triangle and Roxy Roundabout on Divali night allima.garcia@gmail.com
25
S.F.A. National Stakes www.santarosapark.com
1-5
Tobago International Cycling Classic jeffreycharles57@hotmail.com or (868) 680-1214
11
Chanticleer Classic (GRII R) www.santarosapark.com
24
Derby Stakes (GRI R) www.santarosapark.com
24
Diamond Stakes (GRII) www.santarosapark.com
11-12 Chinese Arrival Dragon Boat Festival Chagville, Chaguaramas www.ttdbf.webs.com
24
Republic Day – Public Holiday
12
27
World Tourism Day
St. Andrew’s Golf Club Living Waters Charity Tournament www.golftrinidad.com
15
St. Andrew’s Golf Club – Immortelle Children’s Centre Charity Golf www.golftrinidad.com
27-28 St. Andrew’s Golf Club Agostini Insurance Brokers Ladies’ Open www.golftrinidad.com
20 •
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
TBA Tobago Blue Food Festival www.visittobago.gov.tt
Calendar
Gordon Anthony Pantin Gordon Anthony Pantin was ordained Archbishop in 1968. The first local Bishop, his 32-year tenure is historical for many reasons. He presided over the Archdiocese during a volatile period of revolution, both cultural and theological. He was described as a traditional Catholic and was well respected for his integrity, simplicity and humility. His spirituality revolved around the Divine Office, the Mass and the Rosary. He fought against abortion, defended the poor and those on death row, and encouraged inter-religious dialogue and Christian unity. Archbishop Pantin died on March 12, 2000 and was succeeded by Archbishop Edward Gilbert in 2001. Photo Courtesy: Catholic News Archives
Catholic Media Services Ltd
November & December NOVEMBER
9
1-30 National Tourism Month 1
1
16 The Woodbrook/St. James Community Association’s Remembering our Fallen Heroes 29 and Loved Ones – Siegert Square allima.garcia@gmail.com
Caribbean Sprint Championship (GRIII R) www.santarosapark.com
29
Invaders Steel Orchestra presents Pan, Parang and Pork invaders1940@yahoo.com RWTC Ultimate Tag Team Triathlon www.rainbowtri.com St. Andrew’s Golf Club – SAGC Parang Party and fundraising event www.golftrinidad.com
25
Christmas Day – Public Holiday
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Boxing Day – Public Holiday
Caribbean Champion Stakes (GRI R) www.santarosapark.com
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Gold Cup (GRI) www.santarosapark.com
7-9 BagoSports Beach Soccer DECEMBER Championships Turtle Beach Heritage Park, Tobago 6 Stewards Cup (GRI) kylelequay@bagosports.com www.santarosapark.com or (868) 772-0248
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Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
13-14 Carib Tobago International Rugby 7s Tournament Bon Accord Recreation Ground baxterslimited@gmail.com or (868) 680-4757
TBA The Woodbrook/St. James Community Association’s Carol and Steel by Candlelight allima.garcia@gmail.com
National Parang Finals, Lopinot
Calendar
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
• 23
Photo: Brian MacFarlane
Photo: Peter Sheppard
Photo: CaféMoka Gallery
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Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
The first thing that strikes the eye of visitors coming from more homogenous societies is the unlimited permutations and combinations of ethnicities that make up Trinidad and Tobago’s population. The average Trini can lay claim to an ancestry comprising more hues than a tie-dyed sarong. And those ancestors, who arrived from every far-flung nook and cranny of the Earth, brought with them their customs, practices and festivals. No matter what time of year you visit, you can be sure to encounter a feast, a parade, or a ritual that will leave you feeling you’ve fallen through a portal to another part of the globe: Africa, India, China, the Middle East, and anywhere in between. These festivals, in their original incarnation, must have been a sight to behold, but soaked in the Caribbean sun and sprinkled with generous handfuls of Trini spices, they have been transformed onto something that is uniquely ours. From the deep booming of Shango drums paying homage to African deities, or the throbbing Tassa drums at Hosay, from the fluttering of flower petals at the feet of a Hindu murti to the rainbow dust of coloured abeer being carried on the wind, there’s always something for you to see, to hear, to feel. Remember, though, that in spite of the dazzling colours, the clamour, and the pounding of feet on the pavement, many of our festivals are deeply rooted in religion. In most cases, photography is permissible, but let your instinct tell you whether it’s okay to lift your arms and join in the excitement, or whether it’s time to stand respectfully back and allow devotees to perform their rituals. No matter the season, ask around, click around, and discover when and where our next major festival is being held. Then hit the road and prepare yourself for an experience you’ll never forget.
F
ESTIVALS 26 carnival 34 indian festivals 36 emancipation day
Photo: CafĂŠMoka Gallery
CARNIVAL
Festivals
Photo: Martin Farinha
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Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
Glorious Carnival Set your spirit free by Sheldon Waithe
The modern T&T Carnival reflects the core values of Mas, a living breathing organism of revelry, festivity and release, unlike any other on the planet. Like most things of this nature, words and pictures cannot do justice; it has to be experienced firsthand. Once you feel the rhythm of a nation take over your body and soul, and you realise that within the lead-up to Carnival there is a niche to satisfy every need, you will be back for more in the coming years. Carnival is so much more than a season; it is a way of life, ingrained in every single Trinbagonian and passed onto willing visitors. What began as masquerade and mimicry in the late 18th Century has now evolved into a global festival worthy of the oft-used moniker “The Greatest Show on Earth!” How else can one describe a gala so wide in scope that it encompasses intimate bands with less than a hundred people, through to festive giants with five thousand revellers snaking their way through the nation’s streets in unison of both costume and attitude? Or the contradiction of the glamour and pageantry of a Kings & Queens Carnival show, followed by the mud and cocoa that is the body paint of the J’Ouvert player? Modern Carnival owes its transformation to our Masmen, those artistic visionaries that can take sequins, wires, feathers and cloth, marry it to music and create thousands of designs that flood the streets in a kaleidoscope of colour each year. The birth of the medium band took place in the 1950s, with the likes of Harold Saldenah and George Bailey establishing Mas Camps that could churn out 1,000 costumes. In the 1960s, the concept grew, with Edmond Hart and Stephen Lee Heung taking Mas into new territory with numerous music trucks comprising both DJs and live bands, to accommodate up to 3,000 revellers. Mas on the road was now transformed forever, starting to resemble the blueprint that we know and love today. By the 1970s, Raoul Garib, Peter Minshall and Wayne Berkeley emerged from the shadows of established Mas camps to form their own super bands, whilst bringing the theatre aspect of Carnival to the forefront. Each band’s inspiration is a story, and these designers told the tale with flowing chapters as each section crossed the stage in the Savannah. The next two decades saw more medium-sized bands swell from popularity and become large bands, while the “allinclusive” component that had become popular in the weekly fetes that make up the period between New Year’s and Ash Wednesday was adopted by organisers. It meant the reveller only had to put on a costume, and every other aspect — food, drink, toiletries, even mobile bathrooms — was taken care of, adding to the sense of freedom. Today, as Brian McFarlane maintains the showmanship of Carnival, band leaders like Dean Ackin and Michael “Big Mike” Antoine, along with Island People, Fantasy, Bliss, Harts and Trini Revellers, take upwards of three to six thousand masqueraders along the journey that is the Parade of Bands. It is a marvel of organisation, art and business and it is still evolving. Check www.ncbatt.com for further information on all bands. If Mas and fetes have changed over the past thirty years, then it is due in part to the evolution of Carnival’s music. Steeped in the “tents” across the country, where satire and melody are delivered with wicked wit, calypso is the music that spawned Carnival and such luminaries as the Mighty Sparrow,
Photo: Edison Boodoosingh
Festivals
Photo: Maria Nunes
Lord Kitchener, Chalkdust, Roaring Lion, Calypso Rose, Shadow, and hundreds more. The lyrics become imbedded in the brain as these masters of their art prepare for the National Calypso Competition, held at the Dimanche Gras on Carnival Sunday (this year, it’s Sunday 2nd March). In the late 1970s, calypsonian Ras Shorty I created a faster-paced, high-energy version of calypso; this offspring is the soca that dominates the dancing on the streets and which has the population eagerly awaiting “Fantastic Friday”, the Soca Monarch competition. It is an extravagant show, held on the Friday of Carnival weekend, as each artiste combines showmanship with infectious beats. SuperBlue is the godfather of soca, with world-renowned Machel Montano the undisputed King of a crop of multi-talented soca stars that push the boundaries of this music each year, all for our hips’ benefit. A further offshoot from calypso is chutney soca, the fusion of soca with Indian rhythms and instruments, blended with humorous lyrics. The Chutney Soca Monarch show takes place two Fridays before Carnival, with thousands attending to see who will follow in the footsteps of chutney greats such as Rikki Jai, Ravi B and Rooplal Girdharrie. All the details for both calypso and soca can be found at www.trinisoca.com, with
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further information on chutney soca at https://www.facebook. com/ChutneySocaMonarch. As Carnival moves along in the 21st Century, the stalwarts of Trinbagonian folklore keep their commanding presence with Ole Mas and the early morning opener to masquerading on the streets, J’Ouvert. Apart from the throngs of painted, muddy, writhing bodies that comprise “dirty mas”, all the traditional characters are present, from frightening stilt-walking blue devils to the protector of the forest, the goat-legged Papa Bois. You’re sure to encounter Midnight Robbers, Jab Jabs, Bats and Dames Lorraines (men and women in elaborate ballgowns stuffed to reflect enormously endowed ... physical charms). This is when people get creative, adding a placard or adornment to make a statement or simply induce laughter. In the dawn light, J’Ouvert is Mas simplified; the ultimate freedom. After a quick rest, it’s onto those same roads again, this time in “pretty mas” that glams up the reveller for the Parade of Bands over the next 48 hours. When it’s over you’re left wondering where you found the energy to complete the Carnival story. The answer, as you start planning for next year, is quite simple: “Because it’s the Greatest Show on Earth.”
Photo: Maria Nunes
Festivals
The Panyard by Sheldon Waithe
I
t can be soft and melodic, soothing the soul and caressing the ear, or it can be a cacophony of noise that suddenly breaks into rhythm and has you jumping from side to side in time with its infectious beat. It is a confluence of different incarnations of the same instrument, blended together in one place with a resulting sound that is as unique as it is melodic; it is the perfect metaphor for Trinidad & Tobago. Welcome to the panyard. Orchestral tribalism is the best description for this gathering of the steelpan faithful, eager to hear their band’s choice of song for the holy grail: the Panorama competition. Sure, pan lovers may visit other panyards for the lime — and maybe to spy on the competition — but they always stick to their favourite steelband. There is none of the fickleness of jumping ship due to a lack of form or victories. If you attended a certain panyard as a child, if you helped push the carts onto the Savannah’s stage on Panorama night as an adolescent and beyond, then years later, that is still your steelband. You wear the supporters’ T-shirt,
visit the panyard every year, and clap with verve when they have finished their performance on Panorama night. The loyalty and rivalry is part of the magic of this instrument, born of the oil drum and ensconced in Carnival tradition. Organising forty to fifty players, encompassing tenor, cello, guitar and bass pans into musical perfection that is blended like the finest premium rum, takes sweat and tears. Practice begins before Christmas and, dependent upon the length of the Carnival season, ramps up in January as Panorama preliminaries and semis sort the men from the boys. All the while, the practice sessions are eagerly attended in the almost 200 panyards across the nation. It is the perfect way to spend an evening, cold beverage in hand, inevitably meeting a friend, dissecting the performance as song portions are repeated many times. There may be grumblings about the suitability of the choice of song for that particular year or the current form of the players, but in the end it’s marvellous to witness the building crescendo towards the first hurdle of judging night. This is the one night
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
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Photo: Maria Nunes
Festivals
where aficionados dart from yard to yard, hoping to catch the performance of various bands who play for the judges, with bands eager for points towards the Panorama competition in the “Big Yard”, the Queen’s Park Savannah. The smaller yards each have their own character, from the amphitheatre-like setting of Republic Bank Exodus in St. Augustine, on the borders of the nation’s capital, to the innercity dwellings on Charlotte and Duke Street, home to stalwarts BP Renegades and Neal & Massy All Stars. There is the openbleachers setting of the Witco Desperados and the non-stop highway activity that surrounds the Solo Harmonites. While many Carnival bands fit into every nook of Port of Spain, panyards make up part of every city and major town in Trinidad & Tobago. Local rivalries exist within areas with a heavy pan demographic; crowded districts such as Belmont and Woodbrook are home to several panyards each, as old as the neighbourhoods themselves. This meant that pan rivalry had turbulent beginnings, where clashes were not just of the auditory variety that exists today. As the formation of steelbands became popular in the 1930s and 40s, tribalism meant brawling on the road between followers, who would be pushing bands along to or from the Savannah. Given that the gangs that attached themselves to the steelbands had their roots in “tamboo bamboo” (drumming with dried bamboo, see page 84) and that practice involved spurring on local stick-fighting champions, it was inevitable that panyard’s early days were mired in scuffles. This meant that, as an instrument, the pan and by extension,
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Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
the panyard, were frowned upon. But as the beauty of the instrument superseded its reputation, pan attracted middle class players, which, in turn, diffused the skirmishing, leading to sponsorship from local and foreign businesses in the late 1950s; suddenly pan was respectable. The evolution resulted in the panyard becoming the unofficial community centre for its area. A place far beyond the purpose of practice sessions and housing instruments; it became a place of local solidarity, of sharing, of tutelage. Like the local football team in England, the steelband became the squad to support, to cheer on to win in Panorama, because its panyard was the place one visited and knew the players. They became one’s champions. Steelbands morphed into disciplined units with strategies for winning. Arrangers and composers, tasked with delivering results through their creativity and authority, took on legendary status that surpassed their own yard’s walls. Len “Boogsie” Sharpe, Robert Greenidge, Jit Samaroo, Pat Bishop, Ray Holman, and Pelham Goddard are but a few of the names whispered in reverent tones. Their legacy fills the night air during the lead-up to Carnival’s final weekend, when battle will commence on stage in the Savannah and on the road at J’Ouvert’s Bomb competition (where a non-calypso tune is arranged to a calypso tempo). It’s versatility, unity and originality in one package; it all takes place at your favourite panyard. Panorama Finals are held on the last Saturday before Carnival; for details go to www.pantrinbago.co.tt. A list of panyards can be found at www.tntisland.com/panyards.html.
Meet a Trini
S
oca music originated in Trinidad and Tobago in the 1970s when a popular calysonian with the sobriquet Lord Shorty (Garfield Blackman), who later became Ras Shorty I, experimented with a new sound, a faster, more infectious calypso that infused the elements of Indian musical instruments such as the dholak, tabla and dhantal. This fusion grew to include other musical genres, incorporating elements of the steelpan, drums, disco, rap, reggae, house music, zouk, and dance music genres, and continues to blend in contemporary music styles and trends. Austin Lyons, calypso sobriquet SuperBlue (originally Blue Boy), on account of his distinctly blue performing wardrobe and his gutsy acts of scaling scaffolding and speaker boxes during his live performances, has transcended the generation gap to emerge as one of the leading exponents of the soca artform. Indeed, he is referred to as the father of modern soca. Raised in the town of Point Fortin in the south-west region of Trinidad, the 57-year-old soca star is the father and father-in-law of top soca performers Fay-Ann Lyons and Bunji Garlin. His first big hit, called Soca Baptist, was in 1980. It had the entire country (and wherever there is a Trinidad-styled Carnival) jumping and swaying to the beat as it captured the coveted “Road March” title, awarded to the calypso that is most played across the parade stages at our worldfamous annual Carnival celebrations. He would go on to capture many such titles, as well as other prestigious ones, such as the International Soca Monarch. His list of winning titles is impressive and shows the generational gap he has bridged from 1980 to 2013. He has won the annual Carnival Road March title nine times (in 1980, 1981 and 1983 he won as Blue Boy, and as SuperBlue in 1991, 1992, 1993, 1995, 2000 and 2013) and the Trinidad Soca Monarch (now the International Soca Monarch) title a record seven times. Among his more memorable hits over the years are: Rebecca, Ethel, Hello, Get Something and Wave, Jab Jab, Bacchanal Time, Signal to Lara, Flag Party, and Lucy, and his albums have become collectors’ items. In August of 1983, Lyons had the privilege of being the first calypsonian to perform at England’s Wembley Convention Centre. He also appeared on the popular children’s television show Sesame Street. After being off the scene for a while, SuperBlue made a triumphant return in 2013 by overwhelmingly winning the Road March Title and tying for 1st place in the International Soca Monarch. “I’m just here to say I love you/ A voice from out the blue”…his song “Fantastic Friday” had everyone singing and dancing to the rhythm as he conjured up imagery related to the Friday preceding Carnival. His impact on the annual Carnival festival and on the many Trinidad-styled Carnivals around the globe is phenomenal in terms of the local and universal appeal of his music, bringing even the more sedate to their feet to participate in the dancing and waving that his songs compel them to do. SuperBlue’s favorite philosophical saying, which he often repeats in interviews, is: “Yesterday was history, tomorrow is a mystery, today is a gift…one day at a time.”
SUPERBLUE By Nasser Khan
Photo: Edison Boodoosingh
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
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Meet a Trini
Damian Whiskey - Midnight Robber By Roslyn Carrington
Photo: Maria Nunes
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Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
W
hile most modern Carnival costumes are brightly coloured, having an almost ethereal quality, many traditional Mas portrayals are birthed in the darkened alleyways of the cities, emerging at night to wreak havoc upon the guilty and scare the wits out of the frail. Few are as fearsome as the great Midnight Robber, a merciless brigand who roams the streets at Carnival time in black trousers, shirt and cape, with an enormous, widebrimmed hat topped by emblems of the dark side: coffins, skeletons, ghostly pirate ships, even portraits of the Prince of Darkness himself. Armed with guns, swords, daggers and bayonets, the Robber earns his keep by accosting the unwary and demanding funds by reciting a complex, poetic ode to evil. His victims are well advised to placate the Robber with gifts of cigarettes, alcohol and small bills, the better to hurry him along to his next victim and thus escape mortal jeopardy. Damian Whiskey didn’t choose the Midnight Robber; the Midnight Robber chose him. Hand-picked at the age of ten by his teacher to represent his primary school at a competition, he found himself being thrust onstage, knees knocking. “I was terrified, shaking so much that the paper skulls and crossbones fell off my costume.” The judges, the legendary Masmen, Andrew “Puggy” Joseph and Brian Honoré, took notice, and Whiskey placed second. His Mas-loving parents lost no time in entering him in another competition...where he found himself competing against these same two masters. Although just a guppy swimming among sharks, he placed third. Recognising raw talent, “Puggy” took Whiskey under his wing. By his early teens he was representing his high school, Queen’s Royal College, at national events. Now in his mid-thirties, this dark and wicked spirit of the night has stormed many a stage, putting the fear of the Devil into his audiences with his original, menacing lyrics and dramatic, ghoulish attire. He portrays the traditional character not just out of a love for his culture, but out of a sense of duty to his generation and the one that follows. “I feel I was charged with the responsibility to keep the art alive,” he says with all humility. “From early, I realised how important it was. And my parents were instrumental in ensuring I kept up with it.” For many years, he competed at Viey La Cou, the annual celebration devoted to traditional Mas characters, until it ended. “We had a lot of fun,” he remembers. In more recent times he has competed at the larger national competitions, including the traditional Mas competition at St. James, and the national NCBA championship. In 2013, Whiskey intimidated his competitors into ceding the National Championship to him; he will reign as King until he has to defend his crown for Carnival 2014. Whiskey’s creativity isn’t limited to writing his mesmerising— and frankly terrifying—verse; he also hand-decorates his costume. He “plays Mas” with a group of like-minded friends, and is always gratified by the enthusiastic reception he gets from his victims. He is especially moved to share his craft with children, to ensure that the craft lives on. “People think traditional Mas is dying, but there is a demand for it. We just need to get it into the educational system, so children will be encouraged to continue.” And before he disappears into the fog, the Robber leaves us with a few of his fearsome lines: “I am the ghost who walks / The slave master who never talks / A puppeteer without strings / A notorious criminal mastermind with a billion unsuspecting victims...” We can only shudder....
Meet a Trini
June Sankar - Dame Lorraine By Nasser Khan
T
he history and traditions of masqueraders during Trinidad and Tobago’s pre-Lenten Carnival can be seen through many of the original portrayals, including the Dame Lorraine, which is imitative of the early French planters and their own elegant costumes, which they donned at Carnival time in that era. June Sankar, a veteran masquerader who is intent on staying true to the origins of Carnival, has been portraying the Dame Lorraine for the past 10 years, winning several competitions each year in the category of traditional Mas. Sankar invites visitors to join her for the fun and frolic which originates from her Carnival Mas camp (home base) in Belmont, on the outskirts of the capital city of Port of Spain. The Dame Lorraine costuming pokes fun at the 18th and 19th Century French plantocracy, complete with ornate and colourful dresses, elaborate fans, hats and imitation jewellery, with copious padding emphasizing and exaggerating the front and rear physical attributes of the masquerader. Sankar has expanded her individual Carnival portrayal to having mini parading bands of both junior and senior masqueraders portraying the Dame Lorraine though the streets of Port of Spain on Carnival Monday and Tuesday. She is also intent on passing on the tradition of the Dame Lorraine to the younger ones, and has done so at a number of schools, much to the delight of many of the
Photo: Maria Nunes
students. “We actually go into the schools and educate the students on the character. We teach them how to portray the costume and the character and they actually get the chance to take part in designing the costumes…hopefully the origins of Carnival can be saved as the more modern costuming takes a hold on the society.” Her daughter Nadia has recently joined up with her mom and is just as enthusiastic about continuing and preserving the traditions of the Dame Lorraine. Along with other traditional characters such as Blue Devils, Jab Jabs, Pierrot Grenades, Gorillas, Bats and the like, the Dame Lorraine character continues to be a popular sight during the lead up to Carnival. When asked about the length of time taken to produce the Dame Lorraine costume once the design has been completed, Sankar, an accomplished seamstress, said, “It usually takes about a month, including sewing and decorating. What takes the most time is not the sewing but the hat, because it’s the part that gets noticed, even before the exaggerated bosom and buttocks…the intricate art of adding bows, flowers or glitter. It can be a heavy costume to wear, so we try to use the lightest possible materials such as polyester and cotton, polyfill stuffing and high-density sponge for the padding. We also have to think about the times when we have to be out in the hot sun, so breathability is important in selecting the materials. It really is an artform in itself.” If you’re interested in playing a Dame Lorraine for Carnival 2014, contact June Sankar at (868) 302-1028 or (868) 732-8530.
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
• 33
INDIAN FESTIVALS
Festivals
T&T’s Multicultural Festivals T&T’s rich tapestry of creeds, races and ethnicities has resulted in an amazing line-up of festivals, celebrations and parades. Many of them were brought here by Indian indentured workers, who first arrived in 1845. Here’s a taste of just a few:
Ramadan and Eid Ul Fitr
T&T’s Muslims join with their brethren each year to observe the month of Ramadan with fasting and prayer. The festival is moveable, as it is based on the shifting lunar Islamic calendar. The discipline of dawn-to-dusk fasting reminds Muslims of the less fortunate among us, while increasing their taqwah (relationship with Allah). Therefore, when they pray, or make dua, their prayers are more likely to be heard and answered. Ramadan ends with the Eid Ul Fitr feast, which is a national holiday. Families dress in new clothes and visit mosques for prayer. They may visit friends and family to share a meal at which a popular milky drink called “sawine”, which is laden with spices, nuts and vermicelli, is served. Muslims and non-Muslims greet each other with “Eid Mubarak” or “Happy Eid.”
Hosay
Hosay harkens back to the grieving period following the murder of the grandsons of the Prophet Mohammed, Hussein and Hassan. Yet this festival is alive with colour and sound. For three nights in a row, Shiite Muslims parade through the streets of St. James, joined by Trinis of all faiths. There is a smaller Hosay in Cedros. The first night is Flag Night, when floats bearing colourful flags are pushed along to the deep, booming sound of Tassa drums. The flags symbolise the banners of war. On Small Tadjah night, devotees push models of mausoleums made of wood, paper, tinsel and foil. Big Tadjah Night is the climax, when huge versions of the smaller tadjahs glitter under the street lights. As the crowd watches, two men, one bearing a huge green crescent moon on his shoulders, the other bearing a red one, dance toward each other along the Western Main Road, in time with the Tassa drums. The red represents Hussain’s shed blood; the green, the poison that killed Hassan. At their meeting point, the moons “kiss” briefly, to the delighted cheers of the crowd. The next day, the tadjahs are taken to nearby Cocorite in a funereal march, and cast into the sea to the reading of prayers. Hosay is a moveable feast, so check your festival calendar online for dates.
Ramleela
The epic story of Ramleela comes from the Ramayana, a Hindu holy text, Each year, Hindus dramatise the saga on open ground. Ramleela groups act out their vignettes around Divali. For up to 11 nights, elaborately made-up, costumed amateur actors portray the timeless struggle between good and evil as seen in the life of Shree Ram, an avatar of one member of the Hindu Trinity, Lord Vishnu. Photo: seandrakes.com
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Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
Photo: CafĂŠMoka Gallery
Festivals this puja. Wearing yellow, which represents purity and religious restraint, devotees walk along the river to its source, carrying offerings of buttercups, fruits, milk and other items, and stopping at several points (ghats) along the way to perform pujas.
Phagwa
This spring festival marks the gruesome death of Hiranyakashipu, a king blessed by the Hindu creator Brahma, but who used his power for evil instead of good. He was killed by an avatar of Lord Vishnu because of his evil deeds and intentions toward his son Prahalad, a true devotee. Hindus celebrate Phagwa by playfully squirting a brightly coloured fluid called “abeer” on each other, on open fields and village grounds. Pagwha is also associated with fertility, by women hoping for children.
Raksha Bandhan
This charming festival honours the bond between brothers and sisters. Sisters tie a colourful woven thread around the wrist of their brothers, symbolising their love and devotion to him, and his promise to protect her. In return, he may offer her a gift. The gesture may extend to unrelated men who are close enough to be brothers of the heart. The ceremony usually takes place in August.
Other Festivals
Other colourful festivals owe their origins to one or more of our many different cultural influences. Photo: Edison Boodoosingh
Divali (or Diwali)
This Hindu “festival of lights” is a national holiday, held on the darkest night of the month of Kartik, usually mid-October to midNovember. You’ll know it by the stunning displays of hundreds of lit clay lamps, called deyas, outside houses, on walls and perched upon home-made bamboo stands. Deyas are said to have lit Shree Ram’s path back to Ayodia after his exile. Divali marks the end of the harvest season, and Hindus honour goddess Lakshmi with a puja (ceremonial worship) at 6:00 p.m., just when the first deya is lit, to thank her for bestowing wealth and prosperity. They abstain from meat, alcohol and intimate relations for up to a month before Divali, and clean their houses so that Mother Lakshmi will enter on Divali night and bless the household. On the day itself, Hindus prepare special food and sweets to share with their neighbours, wear new clothes, and look forward to the year ahead.
Ganga Dashahara
Ganga Dashahara celebrates the descent of Ganga from the celestial region, to release the souls of the sons of King Sagara after five generations of self-denial. The festival originated on the banks of the Ganga River, “Ganges”. It is said that the waters are spiritually renewed annually on the anniversary of the descent, the tenth tithi (lunar day) of the Hindu month of Jyeshtha, which runs from May 21 to June 22. In T&T, Ganga Dashahara takes place at the source of the Marianne River in Blanchisseusse, Arima. The river was consecrated by water and dust from over 2000 holy rivers and places in India. Worshippers fast for several weeks to attend
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Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
La Divina Pastora (Sopari Mai)
The famous Black Madonna resides in the Church of La Divina Pastora in Siparia. She is also called Sopari Mai, Supari Mai, or even Soparee Mai (the Mother of Siparia) by Hindus. On Good Friday, the statue is visited by Roman Catholics, Hindus, Muslims, Orishas, Baptists, and members of other faiths. Hindus believe she is a manifestation of Mother Kali. Christian and Hindu devotions take place side by side, and many claim to have received healing and other miracles. Devotees make offerings of oil, jewellery, sweets, flowers and money, pleading for her intervention. Many Hindu toddlers have their first haircut on this day, and the locks are offered to the Virgin. The poor beg for alms, amidst the clamour of market vendors hawking their goods. Several weeks later, at the Catholic feast of La Divina Pastora, the statue is dressed in splendid regalia and paraded through the streets by thousands of pilgrims.
Santa Rosa Festival
Like all the Caribbean Islands, both Trinidad and Tobago were settled by Amerindian tribal peoples hundreds of years before the arrival of Columbus. While few in number, the Caribs remain a vibrant people, who cling to their traditions, including the veneration of their patron saint, Santa Rosa de Lima. The Feast of Santa Rosa, strongly flavoured with Roman Catholic observances, takes place in Arima, home to the country’s largest indigenous population. It begins with the firing of a cannon on Calvary Hill on August 1st, and culminates with a parade on the 23rd August. The Carib Queen leads the parade as devotees carry the elaborately adorned statue of Santa Rosa through the streets. The festival ends with church services and feasting.
Meet a Trini
The Dragon’s Jumbies By Sheldon Waithe
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estled in the hills of Cocorite stands a huge steel gate, on a road barely wide enough to accommodate a normal-sized car. Roll back this impressive door and a huge courtyard — in an area where space is at a premium — reveals itself. Littered with speakers, bicycle parts, costume paraphernalia and wires, it’s no different from the hundreds of Mas camps, which are also unofficial community centres, around Trinidad & Tobago. Look a little closer and you realise that there are a lot of drums and a huge number of wooden beams of varying lengths, which outnumber anything else in the yard. At the centre, a man with a commanding presence much larger than his stature takes control with a few barked orders, and suddenly one is dwarfed by stilt walkers (or Moko Jumbies) appearing against the blue sky. The transformation is amazing, and the stilt skill is uncanny to the layman, but for the regulars of this patch of peculiarity, it’s another day at the office. Welcome to the Kilimanjaro School of Arts & Culture. Everyone in Cocorite knows Dragon. The founder, owner and teacher of Kilimanjaro School started it up twenty-nine years ago with the twin aims of passing on the skills he learnt in stilt walking, limbo dancing, walking on broken bottles and fire-eating, and providing a welcome distraction for kids milling about on the street, who can fall prey to dire elements. He credits his ability to hone the skills that he now teaches to his own photographic memory. “When I was growing up, I used to watch fellas doing this stuff, and I could just copy it; no one told me how to do it. My ex, she was a dancer and I was the drummer; we did concerts for kids and then afterwards we would give them academic lessons. I always wanted to do something to help save the kids, because a lot of them come from broken homes.” Since the inception of the school, Dragon claims to have taught over 6,000 people to stilt walk. He states with confidence that he can have the ambitious Moko Jumbie up in the air and dancing on sticks within a week, adding “Give me five minutes and I’ll have you comfortable on stilts.” Certainly, when one sees the cross-section of walkers, from kids of three through to grown men, all dancing and liming at eight feet up in the air as though it was the most natural thing in the world to be level with the rooftop, you believe Dragon’s boasts. Moko Jumbies are making a comeback within Carnival circles, as the importance of traditional Mas is recognised in the face of the big all-inclusive bands and fetes. There have been sporadic appearances of Jumbies in various bands on Carnival Monday and Tuesday, but Dragon now seeks to take things a step further and launch an exclusive band of Moko Jumbies in 2014. It would make an impressive sight, three hundred-plus costumed stilt walkers in one band on the streets of Port of Spain. Dragon sees the band as a necessary evolution if traditional Mas is to survive. “Life is about changes; if we don’t do it, it will die.” His words reiterate that away from the romanticism of folklore, harsh economic realities come to bear.
Despite the cross-section of children involved and the lack of a focus on profit, Kilimanjaro receives little funding, with Dragon supporting the majority of the school’s endeavours through the proceeds of his day job. “I pay for it all myself, otherwise they will stop coming and end up back on the street.” Away from the sphere of Carnival, his Jumbies have been seen at cricket venues, had a prominent role at the Miss Universe pageant held in Trinidad in 1999, and were part of a Sesame Street skit in the 1980s. They have graced shows around the Caribbean and visited England. At most cultural gatherings (the fancy name for a big lime in T&T), it is no longer unusual to have an eight-to-ten-foot visitor amongst the crowd, or rather, way above it. The school continues to attract walkers from diverse sectors, as people tune in to the unique form of exercise — Dragon runs a tight ship, with six practice sessions a week, four hours per session — while gaining the warmth from the camaraderie so evident in the courtyard. He may be a disciplinarian, but Dragon’s first rule is that you must enjoy yourself. His approach to nurturing T&T’s culture while helping the children means that, however tall the obstacles before the Kilimanjaro School, the Dragon’s love for his art will ensure his success. Dragon can be contacted for stilt-walking lessons on (868) 771 0194.
Photo: Maria Nunes
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Photo: seandrakes.com
Festivals
Images and Memories of Freedom By Khafra Kambon
For those who want an uplifting, soul-enriching experience, for those who want to be entertained and edified at the same time, those who want to share in a unique experience rooted in humanity’s oldest culture emanating from the African continent, combining its ancient and modern expressions, including its evolutions in the African Diaspora, Trinidad and Tobago is the place to be in the last week of July leading to August 1, Emancipation Day. Here, remembrance is expressed in the beauty that meets the eye, the fascinations of melodies and rhythms, the taste of Africa in the foods, the vibrations in the air, the sense of pride and human kinship, and the knowledge that nourishes the mind. Just imagine tens of thousands of men, women and children dressed in the finest of African attire, on the streets, rhythmically on the move, the women standing out with their elaborate head ties in dramatic colours, completing exquisite flowing gowns and adornments of artistically crafted earrings, necklaces and bracelets. Just imagine streets lined with onlookers, several persons deep, many attired in equal style. Picture costumed dancers, some groups exclusively made up of children, breaking into choreographed routines as they parade through the streets, their movements in sync with African drums played on moving vehicles. Flags wave in the air. Banners proclaim the names of specific groups and the geographical communities from which they come. Moko Jumbies, towering above the crowds, stride majestically along the street, dancing at times on their super-high stilts with skill, daring and dexterity that never fail to excite. No celebration in Trinidad and Tobago is complete without the steelband. The sounds of the wondrous instruments created here add to the excitement generated by historical events, by imagery, and a range of musical expressions — from traditional drums to rhythm sections that mix traditional and modern percussion instruments, to recorded music, to the voices and accompaniment of live performers on decorated trucks.
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This is the scene downtown in the capital city of Port of Spain on the morning of August 1 every year, as the crowds begin the Kambule, the now famous street procession that will flow into the Lidj Yasu Omowale Emancipation Village. Participants are inspired by the historical knowledge presented in public fora and various media over the preceding weeks and brief reminders of the day’s significance presented from a platform outside today’s Treasury Building, the site of the Governor’s office in 1834, when the Emancipation proclamation was read. On this day they remember the feeling of betrayal of the August 1, 1834 announcement that condemned the enslaved to another 6 years of servitude under the name of apprenticeship. But they celebrate the eventual triumph over slavery when continuing African resistance forced its official abandonment four years later, on August 1st, 1838. Leaders of government of Trinidad and Tobago, Ministers of government from African countries, sometimes an invited President, religious leaders of many denominations, prominent foreign guests, all form part of the mix on this march of remembrance video recorded by dozens of local and foreign journalists. At the Emancipation Village in the Queen’s Park Savannah, a beautifully designed space that has been a site of commerce, grand entertainment, art and education (through film, workshops and discussions) for days preceding August 1, the crowds wander through the pan-African marketplace. They purchase items that excite them, restore their energy with food and drinks, browse the art exhibition, read the historical information integrated into the wonderful décor, with its stunning African motifs, listen to speeches from the stages, and enjoy the entertainment. In 2014, the annual flambeau procession on the night of August 1 will not close the Village and the celebration, but prepare the way for its continuation with an International Pan Festival on August 2, organized by Pan Trinbago, which will be integrated into the emancipation commemoration organised by the Emancipation Support Committee of Trinidad & Tobago.
When it comes to shopping in Trinidad, don’t let our laid-back, go-with-the-flow vibe fool you into thinking that you can just snag a few shell necklaces as mementoes and be on your way. Trinis are voracious shoppers, always eager for a bargain, while at the same time demanding the best quality goods and services. How else can we “rock our brands” as we roll into the hottest party in town? Here, you can go from massage therapy to retail therapy in a single morning, and the incredible range of merchandise, from handcarved coconut monkeys to fine Lladró figurines, will bring you joy twice over: once when you make it yours, and once again when you give it pride of place on your mantel back home. And as popular as the main shopping areas are with visitors, you’ll find no tourist traps here. Instead, you can chat with warm, open, and friendly salespeople who are genuinely happy to greet you, and who are eager to guide you through your choices. Maybe it comes from spending a lifetime surrounded by beauty, sound and colour, but Trinis are an artistically gifted bunch. So look out for original pieces of art, craft and music. Better yet, see if you can get your hands on a mini steel pan and try your skill with the sticks. It’s not as hard as you think. Jewellery, of course, is always a good investment. You can choose from funky beads or fine, hand-twisted metals embracing semi-precious stones, or go all out with glittering gems in eyecatching settings. As for clothing, venture beyond the cargo shorts and flowered shirts and slip into a showstopping, made-in-T&T designer original in dazzling colours stolen from the rainbow. Whatever the shopaholic in you desires, we promise that Trinidad can deliver!
Photo: Janet Fabres
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HOPPING
SHOPPING
Shopping
Photo: Janet Fabres
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oaking up the sun, sand and sights is always fun, but sooner or later you’re going to feel the urge to go shopping. Happily, Trinidad is one of the Caribbean’s shopping hotspots. Most stores accept major credit cards or US cash, but ATMs are available almost everywhere, or you can visit an exchange trader to get some local currency for more “rustic” shopping. You can hunt for bargains just about anywhere on the island, from multi-level shopping malls and sprawling plazas to familyrun businesses and main streets spilling over with variety shops chock full of alluring merchandise. Our modern, comfortable malls are all easily accessible from the main highways. There you’ll find banks and ATMs, food courts and restaurants, and an assortment of sophisticated retail stores, including jewellery, fashion, art, books, leather goods, home furnishings, and flower shops. Many of the larger chains of supermarkets also have outlets in the major malls, and are stocked with all your culinary and household needs. Trinis love a bargain, and our many cultural, religious and historical events are perfect excuses to hold sales year-round. The mood of these occasions, particularly the busy Christmas season, is amped up by bright decorations and a medley of foreign and local music. At Lotus Wares you can find both one of a kind and trendy brands of cutlery, fine linen and décor accessories. The Falls at Westmall, in the north-west, is a world-class mall with 130 stores, two major banks, cellular phone centres, a food court, and a choice of cosy cafés to welcome the most fatigued and famished of shoppers. As you leave “The Falls”, the Western Main Road takes you through the loud and lively St. James shopping area. Head north from there and you’ll find Long Circular Mall, one of Trinidad’s first malls. It’s a landmark shopping centre, with three levels of brand-name merchandise and retailers, plus food court, gym and supermarket. Swarovski crystals, fine jewellery and watches, perfumes and skincare products, are all offered at Stechers Ltd. Those of you who enjoy open-air shopping can try the plazas. Starlite Shopping Plaza in Diego Martin and Highland Plaza in Glencoe, or Shoppes of Maraval and the elegant Ellerslie Plaza, are there to indulge your craving for shopping in signature boutiques. Invaders Bay, one of our earliest Amerindian settlements, is now home to the Mediterranean-themed shopping haven, MovieTowne entertainment and shopping complex. Tucked away among the mangroves is a memorable shopping experience, with over 40 premier shops, an outdoor festival area, several popular restaurants, and a ten-screen multiplex cinema. If you’re eastward-bound, you’ll find Trincity Mall, one of the largest shopping centres in the English-speaking Caribbean. It’s visited by over 5 million shoppers each year, and is home to a mix of fashion retail, entertainment, two food courts and several top-class restaurants, which offer everything from Italian food to Asian cuisine to sushi. Caribbean Cinemas 8, an eight-screen Cineplex, a large supermarket, and three major banks, either inside or adjacent, all make it a one-stop shopping spot. Valpark Shopping Plaza, is conveniently located between Port of Spain and Piarco Airport. A few kilometres west of this is the sprawling City of Grand Bazaar, at the junction of Trinidad’s two major highways. It offers a rewarding shopping, dining and entertainment experience while retaining the ambience of the outdoors. If you prefer something cosier,
Shopping Centre Pointe Mall and Centre City Mall service the customers of Chaguanas. Further south, in La Romain, Gulf City Mall has a range of distinctive boutiques, with a designated section for children’s shopping centred on a fun play area. In Port of Spain you can find luxury items from all over the world: Irish linens, English china, Scandinavian crystal, French perfumes, Swiss watches, Japanese cameras... your choices are limited only by how for you decide to roam. Shops specialising in locally-made products offer a choice of handmade soaps and lotions or, on the other end of the spectrum, exquisite jewellery. Prices may be higher, but so are their quality and variety. Cheaper imported items from Venezuela, China, India, Brazil and the United States contend with local commodities to thrill the bargain hunter. In “downtown” Port of Spain, shoppers can amble along some of Trinidad’s oldest urban roads. Admire the beauty of 100-yearold architecture in the columns and balustrades on Frederick Street. “Lime” along the arcade malls from Frederick Street to Henry and Charlotte Streets and browse through jewellery outlets, bookstores, clothing and shoe shops. Haggle with sidewalk vendors as they jostle on the pavement. Stroll down to the Brian Lara Promenade to see what local craftsmen have on sale. You’ll find leather goods such as belts and sandals, and an array of wood carvings. Our fashion-loving people have nurtured a thriving garment industry, serviced by numerous textile stores, well-stocked with materials and embellishments. Brilliant batiks and exotic sari silks await you, along with upholstery and drapery fabrics, bridal and evening fabrics, men’s suiting and high thread-count linens, all at excellent prices. Before leaving ”downtown”, be sure to nip into Excellent
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City Centre a landmark mall that houses over 60 shops. Its own Excellent Stores has a vast selection of items, from household objects to children’s clothing and seasonal decorations. With branches at MovieTowne, Price Plaza and Trincity Mall, Excellent Stores opens seven days a week. The Parkade car park on the western end of downtown Port of Spain provides several stories of convenient parking. Head for the ultra-modern National Library on Abercromby Street or continue strolling as far across as Charlotte Street to the eastern end of town. You’ll find yourself immersed in a buzzing marketplace, with rickety tables laden with Chinese preserves, cast-iron pots, seasonal fruit and vegetables, and trinkets. You can also browse from a tray on the pavement or sort through bargains at the back of a pick-up truck. If you’re in the market for fine quality modern and traditional furniture and fittings, you can choose from the rustic Mexican and Guyanese furniture, or snap up precious West Indian antiques that reflect the cosmopolitan history of our society. You can find contemporary pieces manufactured in Asia, and North American traditional furniture, at outlets of Signature Collection and Mi Casa. They’re easily accessorised with home furnishings from local and international suppliers. Mobile phones and accessories can be easily found at the malls, plazas and other cell phone outlets. Top-up cards can be bought at most supermarkets and drugstores and other easily identified distributors. Computer and IT resources are available from many businesses. High quality network systems, data recovery services, rentals and repairs are available from Trinidad Systems Limited, POS, Datasafe, Arima, Computer Rentals Caribbean and Computer Network Systems, McEnearney Business
Shopping
Machines in POS, S.A.R.A.S., Maraval or Pro Technologies, Belmont Circular Road — just a few of the host of companies offering their expertise. If you’re keen to try shopping on a more grassroots level — and to interact with a quirky assortment of local characters — pause awhile and chat with roadside vendors, who ply their trade just about everywhere, in Port of Spain, Chaguanas and along the East-West Corridor. They’ll more than oblige your curiosity about their bounty of local and foreign fruit, vegetables, leathercraft and imported goods. If you head south along the highway toward Chaguanas, you’ll find a fantastic array of useful and decorative clay items at reasonable prices, because in central Trinidad the pottery wheels hardly stop spinning. Indian Trade Fairs and Expos crop up frequently around the country. They’re great sources of exotic, colourful clothing, authentic eastern-style furniture, exquisite Indian jewellery, brass and bedding. Look out for advertisements in the local press, especially around the Hindu festival of Divali, usually observed in October or November. Lovers of African art can choose from beautifully crafted baskets, and artefacts in wood, stone and copper from Ghana, Kenya, Nigeria and Zimbabwe, which can be found at places like African Trophies. Our fast-growing fashion industry is the envy of the Caribbean, with a number of designers and fashion houses, many internationally recognised, such as Claudia Pegus, Heather Jones, Meiling, Millhouse, Anya Ayoung Chee and The Cloth. Wet Swimwear are in the swim of things, with beachwear and accessories direct from the world’s hottest runways and exclusively chosen to satisfy every swimsuit fantasy. If you are seeking an exotic shopping experience visit the House of Jaipur, this boutique offers trendy and fashionable resort wear, saris,
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Shopping intricate jewellery and furnishings. After shopping, relax at their tearoom and experience the flavours of their fine imported teas. Our fashionistas know that Caribbean clothing doesn’t stop at beach and trendy wear. In Trinidad, every occasion and season is a reason to dress up — or down. Visit Avenue Montaigne for chic apparel and luxurious embellishments to define your true inner expression of who you are. From January to December, the latest styles, sporting both local and foreign labels, will tempt you from every display window. Jewellery is a lightweight, easy-to-carry option for gifts to take home, or to add to your own private collection. Visit The Gem Shop and Qirat Jewellery to find a wide choice of styles made from natural materials, gold, sterling silver, gemstones, copper and beads from around the world. Qirat Jewellery also offers customised gold and silver pieces to reflect your uniqueness or revitalise old treasures to create new heirlooms. If you are looking for optometry or ophthalmological services, try Value Optical. For designer eyewear by Channel, Prada, Oakley, Maui Jim and Ray Ban visit Ray Cool. Pharmacies and drug stores offer convenient opening hours, (some even 24 hours) and are stocked with over-the-counter and prescription medications, toiletries and beauty products. SuperPharm has seven locations, which are also open on Sundays and holidays. A literary boom in the country has resulted in the publication of some stunning coffee-table books, primarily on Trinidad’s natural history, culture and architecture. Don’t hit the beach without one of the many current international bestsellers, children’s books, craft and hobby how-tos and the everincreasing work of Caribbean writers that adorn the shelves of. Nigel R Khan Bookseller and R.I.K Services Ltd. in every mall
Photo: Peter Sheppard
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and throughout the towns. For customised invitations, greeting cards, and specialised gifts visit Williams Hallmark (H. Williams Bookstore). Souvenir shops such as Bambu Gift Shop (West Mall) and Rainy Days (Ellerslie Plaza) are located in the malls and plazas, in the towns, and at Piarco International Airport. Trinidad & Tobago flags, pottery, ornaments, kitchenware and knick-knacks proudly bear the national colours of red, white and black. Clothes printed or painted with local scenes and the irrepressible Trini humour, figurines of limbo dancers, Carnival masqueraders and calypso singers make fun gifts and memoirs. Take a piece of music history home with you with your very own steel pans and accessories, available at The Selection House in downtown Port of Spain or Panland Trinidad & Tobago Limited, proudly supplying commercial and retail customers around the globe. Explore the wealth of Trinidad & Tobago’s artistic talent as illustrated in its sculpture, paintings, prints and use of wrought iron and atypical materials. Art galleries and framing businesses are sprinkled among the malls, plazas and artsy areas such as Woodbrook and St. Clair. Supplies can also be purchased at Da Vinci’s Framing & Art Materials Limited
Shopping
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Shopping in Trincity Mall and Caribbean Contemporary Arts off the Eastern Main Road. Look out for advertisements promoting exhibitions by local artists and a growing number of craft markets. Consider an edible gift, or perhaps cultivate your own “sweet hand” (the culinary equivalent of a green thumb) with local condiments and preserves from supermarkets and airports. Pepper sauces and jellies, preserved local fruit, chutney or kuchela made with tamarind, mango or other local fruits, authentic spices and herbs will make your mouth water. Sample some fine local coffee, blended by the Hong Wing family since 1921, available at supermarkets, factory outlets and airport stores, or indulge in sinfully exquisite chocolate delicacies produced by local chocolatiers using the very best of Trinidad’s own superb cocoa beans. Neither wellness nor gastronomic pleasures need be neglected while spending time in Trinidad. The Natural Store at Shoppes of Maraval and Health Food Specialist Limited in Cocoyea Village, San Fernando are but two of the many health food stores established to meet the rising demand for dietetic and specialty foods. Gourmet shop Peppercorns in Ellerslie Plaza and Westmall and Petit Gourmet in St. Clair are well known for their variety of gourmet foods, fresh produce and other delicacies, as does Malabar Farms in Long Circular, with stocks of top quality steak and meats, seafood, cheeses, deli meats and specialty platters, imported breads, and gift baskets on order. Connoisseurs can find pleasure in a range of alcoholic beverages, spirits, wines and specialty drinks, including our fine local rums and world-famous Angostura aromatic bitters. These are stocked in the beverage section of supermarkets and smaller groceries, and at excellent duty-free prices at the airport. Fernandes Fine Wines & Spirits and Vintage Imports offer a selection of the world’s finest wines. At Vintage Imports you can also treat yourself to fine chocolates and delicacies or customise gift baskets for your friends and family. Immerse yourself in the country’s opulent flora and fauna. Take your pick from the bounty of local flowers cascading off roadside vans or engage the services of the many florists offering bouquets or arrangements of both local and imported blossoms. Call La Tropicale Flower Shop in St. James, for gourmet baskets, fresh and dried flowers, custom-designed tropical arrangements, tropical fruits and decorations. At Piarco International Airport, duty-free prices are among the most reasonable in the region. Both inbound and outbound passengers are entitled to take advantage of the duty-free stores on the ground floor (after exiting Immigration) and the first-floorlevel shops (accessible via the stairs or escalator). Precious gold and silver jewellery and Swarovski crystals seduce you from their shelves and showcases. Sweet tobacco and alluring perfumes, leather goods, books and local T-shirts and craft, cosmetics, chocolates and confectionery are some of the many purchases to be made. Why not browse the selection of CDs and music or opt for a treat of champagne, port, aged Caribbean rum, scotch or other spirits? All purchases made by departing passengers are delivered to the designated aircraft with a mandatory close-off point for transactions of one hour pre departure time. The seafaring commuter is not neglected. Flanked by the yachts at Crews Inn, Chaguaramas, Apadocas provides oceanbound craft departing the country with duty-free alcohol and cigarettes, or you can simply choose from the duty-paid selection. So feel free to experience the appeal of the shopping mecca that is Trinidad. Keep your holiday memories alive by savouring a surprising treasure chest of purchases, brought to life by this melting pot of people that is Trinidad & Tobago.
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ART & CRAFT
Art & Craft
Photo: Janet Fabres
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Trinidad and Tobago’s Fine Art A sound financial investment and a delight for the spirit By Edward Bowen
Back in the late 80s and early 90s, a few artists settled here in Trinidad as a kind of artistic home space. A contemporary fringe in the fine arts established itself and became mainstream, alongside already known art formats and careers. This presence was at first mistrusted, but bloomed quietly and slowly, pulling in new links, contacts and associations. What was perceived then as avant-garde injected new processes and perspectives into the fields of artistic expression, initially taking root in education and individual studio practice, and, as it is with such concentrations of artistic energies, collaborations and clustering of ideas, new collectors and supporters emerged from other professional fields. Over the past two decades, these collectors and investors have included doctors, attorneys, engineers, civil servants, politicians, ambassadors, media professionals, business professionals, writers, architects, and other artists and designers. Many new collections were formed during this time. This networking took place through IT, education, and the media, as well as national and international exhibitions. Traditional business was at first slow in appreciating these movements; however, artists were using the new opportunities of the digital revolution to further construct associations and collective efforts, moving into education, design and publication, as well as establishing new permanent professional studios, where it was easier to bring new clients and collectors to the processes of the work. For many collectors of art, the conversations with artists are part of the processes of value and discovery; many are driven by personal motivations for levels of satisfaction, sophistication, intellectual inquiry, beauty, value and investment options, as well as other private meanings. For many serious collectors, seeking out art becomes a valueadded experience, as if the contact with art and its processes creates new boundaries of appreciation. But a little market research is advisable. You have to go looking, ask a few questions, attend a few exhibitions, read some books. The math is revealing: comparatively, one 500-thousand-dollar mid-sized sedan could buy ten or more powerful new works from local artists, an instant collection with a tax break, proudly displayed in corporate offices, a home or apartment. It is a matter of choices, but, I feel, an interesting one, and not without precedent. As this society has changed and evolved in the past two decades, contemporary art practice in some ways anticipated and kept pace with shifts of perception in the socio-economic and cultural debates; fine art, as a field of professional activity, and effectively free of a definitive clientèle or state support, had to accommodate many lateral and relevant discursive arenas, and, as a result, attracted a new market to the work. A considerable and diverse portfolio of many forms, reflective of a new Caribbean state of affairs, awaits the discerning buyer.
Perrot Grandes Artist: Jackie Guzman
Art & Craft
Richard Rampersad
Eileen Seitz
An extraordinary and talented persona within the art arena, Mr. Rampersad possesses a profound wealth of artistic competencies. “My fascination with anything I experience propels me to do what I do and informs how I do it, as my art is a true mirror to my mind. I take pleasure in doing what I do and I believe my conceptualizations depict more than what meets the naked eye. It is looking into the deepest recesses of the human heart and soul.” Richard Rampersad is indeed a promising, pervasive and all-encompassing artist, whose works merit close watching. Phone (868) 374-6318 Email richardrampersad@hotmail.com Where www.facebook.com/richard.s.rampersad
Eileen Seitz is an award-winning national and international artist born and raised on the concrete jungle island Manhattan, NYC. In 1968, after hearing “Spirit”, she moved to the tropical green jungle islands, starting with the Caribbean. The sunlight and harmonious colours awakened her talents and artistic passions. Always remembering where the gift comes from, Eileen loves to share this joy that she feels through the act of painting when the Spirit speaks through her brush, and seeing that Spirit reborn in the faces and hearts of the people who come to share her anonymous gift. Phone 1-305-443-1416 Web www.eileenseitz.com Where Eileen Seitz’s art prints are available at Horizons Art Gallery, Port of Spain, Trinidad and Tobago
Jacqueline Guzman
Gabby Tommy
Jacqueline Guzman is an artist living and working in Trinidad. As a child, she found herself appreciating the artistic form and the beauty in everything around her. To this day she continues to have a keen interest in and passion for art. She paints primarily in acrylics, and her art is impressionist in its style. She likes to create large pieces that are local in content and vibrant in colour. This combination makes her pieces very outstanding and stunning. Guzman’s work can be found at Horizon’s Art Gallery, Port of Spain, and in public and private collections both locally and abroad.
Gabby Tommy has been exhibiting his Art professionally since 1990. Born in Trinidad, he also owns and operates two successful businesses, Art & Antiques and Tomace, at The Falls at Westmall, Westmoorings, Trinidad. His art primarily has been figurative depicting the African women of the islands. Recently he has made a second home in Sedona, Arizona, where his love for nature and colour has opened a new door for abstract art.
Tel (868) 755-3656 Email aquatic@tstt.net.tt
Phone (868) 633-5043 Email gabbygtommy@hotmail.com
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Art & Craft
On Location Art Galleries
• Exhibitions • Original Art • Prints • Framing • Art design • Consulting • Valuations • Prints on Canvas • Easel rentals We harness over 30 years of experience in Italy, the United Kingdom, Canada and Trinidad to provide premium picture framing, local art works and prints to Trinidad and Tobago. We have a wide variety of artwork by both established and top emerging artists. Two convenient locations; give us a call or come in today! Tel (868) 622-3403 Where 42 De Verteuil St, Woodbrook Tel (868) 633-3404 Where Unit #205, The Falls at West Mall Email onlocationartgalleries@gmail.com Facebook www.facebook.com/onlocationartgalleries
Jason Nedd Tobago-born artist, Jason Nedd, continues to excel in his love and passion for drawing and painting. He started painting at an early age. Jason continued drawing at the Roxborough Composite School, where he won an award from the Tobago Art Committee for outstanding achievements in Art. Jason has been holding exhibitions in Tobago and also Trinidad, which have led him to receive many commissions, both national and international. At present, he continues to aggressively pursue his enthusiasm for drawing and painting at L’Anse Fourmi in Tobago. Mobile: (868) 680-0469 Email jneddminiartgallery@yahoo.com Where L’Anse Fourmi, Tobago, W.I.
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Art & Craft
Tomley Roberts Lush hills, parched valleys, crystal streams and peaceful waterfalls awaken the artistic imagination of Mr. Tomley Roberts. His ability to create what seem to be replicas of natural sceneries serves as a continual reminder of his keen sense for art, discovered when he was just a boy. As a professional artist, he ensures that each piece reflects his signature of quality and bears his seal of dexterity. As a result, his work has attracted interest locally, regionally as well as internationally at major exhibitions. His careful blend of vibrant colour, and use of unique brushes, together with his exceptional talent, have led him to craft works of art that have been deemed therapeutic. His pursuit to further the development of art in Tobago is reflected in his commitment to the students of the Speyside High School. Infused Phone (868) 702-8764 Email yelmot@hotmail.com Where #48 Mt. Pleasant Local Road, Mt. Pleasant, Tobago
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with enthusiasm by Roberts, these students continue to strive for distinction, and their achievements tell the successful narrative. Tomley remains dedicated to the industry as he employs his expertise and association with various international organizations to expand local art agencies. Roberts enjoys producing his innovative pieces at his art studio in Mt. Pleasant, which he considers his haven.
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Feature
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eter Sheppard was born to be a painter. His parents painted, and encouraged their children to paint. “Christmas and birthday gifts were usually small canvases and a pack of paints.” He would cut the 5”x7” gift canvasses in half. In school, he studied technical drawing. “I was attracted to perspective, and used box houses in my perspective practice.” Those simple, brightly-hued houses became as commonplace as rivers and bamboo in Sheppard’s miniatures, and appealed greatly to tourists. Sheppard had found his niche. In the Caribbean market, the value of fine art is influenced by exhibition sales, gallery curators’ appraisals, demand from collectors, and illustrious affiliations. Sheppard, 46, is yet to mount a solo exhibit beyond Trinidad’s shores, but last May he attained an honour that is a game changer. The Hilliard Society of Miniaturists in Wells, Somerset, is a 31-year-old fraternity of artists who paint miniatures; the society was founded by Sue Burton. Though Sheppard has been painting for 30 years, he says, “I discovered in the last 5 years that miniatures are my signature.” On his first attempt to get into Hilliard’s juried show, Sheppard’s work was rejected because the pores on the surface of his paintings were deemed a distraction. “Remember, they scrutinize miniatures under a magnifying glass,” explains Sheppard. The second year he submitted a monochromatic quartet from his “Blue” show— all four sold. “That was something that stood out,” he says . “It’s West Indian themed but the way it was presented was contemporary—the work used cobalt blue paint.” This year his submission was mounted on masonite board, a surface as smooth as a kitchen countertop. He slathered them with gold, then applied his landscapes. “I was painting with a smile on my face. I enjoyed painting the details with the gold lustre underneath. I sent them to London with such good energy.” Then he got a phone call that he was being awarded the Sue Burton Memorial Award for Best in Show. Jackpot! Sheppard’s third try beat 80 competitors and earned him £1,000 and coveted recognition. What’s next? Possibly a show at the TT High Commission in London, and a collaboration that pairs his passion for food and lush landscapes with his fine art. “I love the miniatures, because it’s how I interpret nature; everything is delicate and precise and neat. When I get into a painting I go into a trance; it puts me at peace.” Isaiah Boodhoo and Carlisle Chang are artists Sheppard admires, but he credits the late Wayne Berkeley, who designed theatrical sets and costumes, with inspiring his technique. “You look at my paintings and there’s a backdrop, then wings coming in on the left and right,” describes Sheppard. “It’s always like I make paintings into a 3D stage set. I paint the background first and I start bringing the work forward.” His largest work measured 2 meters x 5 meters and took six weeks to complete. “I just felt like pushing the edges of the canvas out. [Sometimes] I feel I want to express [nature] bigger. Everything is still meticulously placed in those big paintings, and I am still using a 000 brush.” It’s a painstaking process. Sheppard chuckles as he repeats a comment often heard: “Dat is mad people work.” But to his collectors, Peter Sheppard is madly in love with creating miniatures that reflect his fascination with “all things to do with the Northern Range.”
By Sean Drakes
Majestic and Miniature Artist Peter Sheppard earns honour for magical, imaginative compositions of Trinidad’s splendour
Photos: seandrakes.com
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Art & Craft
Photo: Christopher Anderson
Dongs/Dunks: This round, greenish fruit must be at the perfect stage of ripeness to be thoroughly enjoyed, for if under-ripe or overripe it does not offer the pleasant taste that makes it so popular. Five Fingers (aka Carambola, Star Fruit): Looks exactly like a five-pointed star when sliced. The very ripe fruit has a golden yellow colour; half-ripe it’s a lemon green, and unripe it’s very green. All can be eaten. The fruit is sweet, watery, slightly acid and pleasant to taste. Guava: Guava is considered a super fruit, containing large quantities of vitamins. It’s very aromatic, with lots of seeds and a great taste. It can be eaten raw when ripe or used for making the popular guava jelly, jam or “cheese”. Mangosteen: This strangely shaped fruit is purple on the outside and creamy on the inside, with a taste akin to citrus fruits, with a slight suggestion of peach. Padoo (Pois Doux): Difficult to find, but worth it. The pulp on the seeds is a melt-in-yourmouth, vanilla sensation. Passion Fruit: This aromatic fruit has a tart, delicious tropical flavour when made into a popular, thirst-quenching juice or ice cream. Peewah: When in season, the peewah hangs at roadside markets in abundance. To be best enjoyed, this miniature palm fruit is simply Delight Both the Eye and the Palate boiled in salted water and eaten after the skin is peeled off. By Nasser Khan Pommecythere: Pommecytheres contain a spiny seed and can be eaten either ripe isitors adventurous enough to sample Trinidad and (yellow) or green. It’s best enjoyed green in a chow, doused with Tobago’s rare or exotic fruit are sure to enjoy the hot pepper, garlic and salt. A delicious juice can be made by experience, while benefiting from their abundance blending the flesh with aromatics such as ginger, and sweetening of vitamins and minerals, and, some say, curative with sugar. powers. Trinbagonians will be only too happy to Pommerac: This is a juicy, pear-shaped fruit with a thin, red skin. help you locate those that are in season. Most fruits The round brown nut is surrounded by white, feathery flesh. are either eaten as is, or used in “chows” (a sweet Sapodilla: The sapodilla is incredibly creamy and tasty and and sour local delicacy), juices, wines, jellies and a variety of lends itself to delicious ice cream, flans or puddings. other delicious recipes. Sorrel: Sorrel is a member of the hibiscus family and provides its Balata: This tiny fruit is filled with a large seed and relatively little flowers just in time for Christmas season for making the sweet, red, must-have seasonal drink. flesh, and bears around Easter. Remember to lean forward when Soursop (Guanabana): The soursop has a white, creamy pulp, sucking on the balata seed, since the juice leaves a stain. with a large number of inedible seeds, but if you have the Barbadine: A refreshing, creamy punch is made from the pulp, patience, you can enjoy a flavour that has been compared to as well as an ice cream. strawberry and pineapple mixed together. Caimite: This thin-skinned, round purple fruit tastes like it’s Sugar Apple: This fruit contains a white, creamy flesh covered filled with condensed milk. Once sliced, it reveals a star-shaped by a lumpy, scale-like green crust. The amazingly sweet, custardy pattern. pulp encloses small black seeds. Cashew: Cashews offer both the unique external nut (which Tambran (Tamarind): Mature tamarinds are protected by a brittle must be roasted) and the fruit to which it is attached. The bright, shell that houses three or four small seeds embedded in a tart reddish-orange fruit has a uniquely tangy taste. Chennette: This tiny fruit has a thin, rough skin with soft, orange, pulp. The pulp is kneaded with sugar to make tamarind balls, a popular local confectionery, and can also be mixed with water jelly-like flesh. It grows in bunches and makes for an easy graband sugar to make a tasty drink, or simply sucked off the seeds. and-go fruit. All it takes to enjoy one is just a bite of the outer Tonka Bean: The smooth brown flesh of this fruit presents a skin; pull apart the skin into two pieces and suck the flesh strong, spicy smell. Cake-makers use it as a substitute for vanilla. around the seed. The Ministry of Agriculture/Food Production has made Custard Apple: The fruit of the custard apple is heart-shaped, available a chart showing 84 local fruits. If you’re interested, with a thin skin that has a pinkish tinge when ripe. The pulp is contact fruitstt@live.com. sweet and custard-like.
Our Exotic Fruits -
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Photo: Janet Fabres
Art & Craft
Artisans’ markets - A Goldmine for the Discerning Shopper By Roslyn Carrington
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rinidad has always been known for its excellent selection of art, craft and hand-made artisan items. You can still see them on sale on the busy streets of the cities, in makeshift stalls along the country roads, or at beaches and other tourist hotspots. But a new wave is rising; craft and farmers’ markets are cropping up all over the island, and both the shoppers and sellers are loving it. The trend holds every promise of providing a new and lucrative outlet for emerging entrepreneurs searching for a way to turn their creative streak into a business. Eats and drinks When it comes to food, the Trini imagination knows no limits. You can find hand-churned ice-creams made with fresh local flavourings, from coconut to sapodilla. Local snacks like saltfish accra (fried cod beignets) and pastelles (cornmeal stuffed with ground meat and steamed in banana leaves) jostle for space with Indian goodies and Venezuelan arepas. Hand-squeezed juices, smoothies and punches are a healthy way to get your daily dose of vitamins. Again, if it is a fruit or vegetable and it’s in season, mix-masters will whip you up something long, cold, and delicious. Think watermelon, pommecythere, tamarind, banana, and the entire spectrum of citrus. You might even find cane juice, pressed from the stalk right before your eyes. Indulge in stunningly decorated cookies and cupcakes, macaroons, éclairs, puffs and pies. Top whole-grain, handkneaded bread with jellies, jams, pestos and spreads. Pretty and pampering You can find jewellery made with semi-precious stones, glass beads, wood and bamboo, strung together with silver, gold and copper. You’ll be spoiled for choice with the arrays of handblended body oils and lotions, and scrumptious-smelling soaps made with indulgent oils and local ingredients like coconut milk, avocado and mango butters, seaweed, sea salt and cocoa. Have your hand decorated with exquisite henna designs, for a “tattoo” that will last the rest of your visit.
Art and craft Steal a tiny portion of Trinidad’s soul and take it home with you, encapsulated in a work of local art. The markets are thronging with painters, sculptors and other crafts-people. You can find carvings, paintings, one-of-a-kind articles of clothing, and hand-decorated fabrics. Fresh from the garden Trinidad’s lush plains and valleys are overflowing with produce, and much of it finds its way into market stalls. Not only can you find fruit, vegetables and ground provisions like cassava and dasheen, but you can also snap up orchids and other flowering plants, saplings and seedlings. You might even spot a table laden with bonsai trees! Whatever your pleasure, our local craft markets will delight and surprise you. Walk in with an open heart, and we guarantee you will walk out with a full, happy tummy and shopping bags laden with goodies. You can find details such as date, time and location on most markets on FaceBook or through a simple online search. Here are a few worth noting: • UpMarket — Once a month (twice or more closer to Christmas) at the Woodbrook Youth Centre, Port of Spain, and at Oasis in San Fernando. Tel: (868) 703-2169 • The San Antonio Green Market — Every Saturday, Saddle Road, Santa Cruz. Tel: (868) 397-3276 or (868) 221-9116 • Gourmet Food and Craft Market — Monthly, Central or South Trinidad. Tel: (868) 489-1376 • The Monthly Arts Market — Jerningham Avenue, Belmont, Port of Spain. Tel: (868) 792-8678 • The Craftsman’s Forum — twice a year in central Trinidad, twice a year in Tobago. Tel: (868) 482-8995 Email: vieve78@yahoo.com • Bits and Pieces for Christmas – an annual event, usually in November. Tel: (868) 681-8418
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HEALTH & BEAUTY
Health & Beauty
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Everyone Likes to Look Good By Ruth Osman
“I’m contouring your face now,” Paula explains as she applies a slightly darker shade of foundation to my cheeks. “Just to define them, make your face look a little slimmer.” There is a slight inflection on the “little”, a gentle acknowledgement that my face is not as round as the statement might suggest. Although the technique of contouring is new to me, I have no reason to doubt Paula’s abilities. Like all of the make-up artists and hairdressers in this downtown Port of Spain salon, she is in high demand because of the quality of the service she provides. As she works, I peer down through the large glass windows at Charlotte Street, a river of buyers, sellers and passersby that slowly empties itself onto the Brian Lara Promenade. Some of the street vendors are selling hair extensions; others stand under large umbrellas, weaving them into their customers’ hair. And lower down the street, there are stores that cater exclusively to hair needs, while others meet the ever-increasing demand for bath and beauty products. One thing is evident: the business of beauty is doing well in Trinidad and Tobago. From the vendors on Charlotte Street to high-end spas in west Port of Spain, retailers and service providers pander to the vanities of an image-conscious population. For those who wish to immerse themselves in the experience, spas offer a suite of packages ranging from a sixday extravaganza to a simple manicure and pedicure. With names like “A-ha moment” and “Indulge”, and their use of exotic oils and infusions, these treatments are sure to make the most high-strung client feel pampered and relaxed. Some companies have managed to merge their spa services with the creation of their own line of skin-care products. For one such service provider, local success has led to the establishment of spa and retail facilities in Barbados and Canada. Others focus on manufacturing specific cosmetic products, like make-up, for local, regional and international distribution, and by doing so build a reputation within their particular niches. The commercial production of cosmetics in Trinidad and Tobago is accompanied by a growing cottage industry that produces handmade soaps and body products. Using locally grown ingredients like lemongrass and cocoa, these products appeal to the environmentally conscious consumer as well as those whose sensitive skin might react adversely to the chemicals in mass-produced alternatives. To meet that growing demand for Earth-conscious or organic products as well as those made for sensitive skin, some local entrepreneurs import cosmetics both on a large and small scale. All of these enterprises, commercial or home-based, service or product-oriented, ensure that a broad spectrum of options are available to the consumer. Together, they constitute an emerging sector that is poised to take its place in the global beauty industry. Experts say that by 2017, that industry will be worth US $265 billion. Paula is not surprised: “It doesn’t matter who you are – man, woman, old, young. Everyone likes to look good.”
Health & Beauty
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Health & Beauty
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Photo: Stephen Broadbridge
Photo: Joshua Joseph
Photo: Ayanna Young
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Looking for a fascinating country full of diversity and contradiction to explore? You have chosen well, Grasshopper! Every aspect of Trinidad and Tobago is a study in diversity. Start with ancient South American cultures, blended with the natural history of the Caribbean, and you’ll begin to understand why every guide book of the Caribbean treats Trinidad and Tobago as a separate subject, since we are so incredibly diverse and unique. This has ensured that the member companies of the Trinidad and Tobago Incoming Tour Operators’ Association (T&TITOA) are equally diverse, which, in turn, ensures that your every need is met; you can explore our cities, culture, beaches or rainforests on two legs or two wheels! T&TITOA offers everything from simple “done-in-a-day” tours to multi-day packages with accommodations, tours, transfers, meals and more, covering every aspect of Trinidad and Tobago’s culture, history, nature, cuisine, adventure and sports in a way that brings out our lust for life and fun. With all this diversity, the choices can be overwhelming; happily so. So as a tip; start by deciding what’s your favourite thing to do. From that, define what you wish to do or experience. Hence, if you just love meeting new folks and experiencing their culture, find a tour operator who specialises in culture, ask what events are happening, and develop a relationship with the tour operator and they will guide you to the specific tour that will just wow you. And with so many cultures having left their mark on our society over the years, you can start the day with an Indian breakfast, adventure in South American rainforests, savour a lunch of French Creole fish flavored with First Nation spices. Spend the afternoon snorkelling, surfing, or paddling in Caribbean Seas, and end the day with Chinese food, liming to soca music. The decision is easy; celebrate the diversity.
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XPLORING 66 TOURING 70 BEACHES 74 SITES
Photo: Stephen Broadbridge
TOURING
Touring
Photo: Sarah Carter
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T&T: The Melting Pot to End All Melting Pots By Courtenay Rooks, Member of the Trinidad and Tobago Incoming Tour Operators’ Association (TTITOA)
The diversity of T&T’s culture started long ago. The majority of human settlement in Trinidad and Tobago has been a story of First Nations living in harmony with nature, trading and having skirmishes for at least 7,000 years before Europeans arrived. Funnily enough, schools still teach of peaceful, farming Arawaks and warlike, hunting Caribs who will eat you for lunch, and your heart is dessert. What utter rubbish! We are much more culturally diverse than that, and there is no evidence of any kind to say anyone ever ate anyone for lunch, or dinner for that matter. The more we study the First Peoples of the Americas, the more we see advanced societies that had all of the wonderful traits and nasty habits of humans. They were hunting, farming, majestic; got angry, worked hard, fell in love and built traditions. Rather than the simple two-Nation explanation, we had a far more fascinating settlement of people moving north and south to and from Caribbean Islands, Venezuela, Florida, and Mexico among others. We looked at the Warao, Karina (Carib), Lokono (Arawak), Shebaio and other First Nations’ seafaring capabilities as mainly coastal, but it is clear they navigated way up the islands, trading and exploring as humans always did. Their honour of nature and how it provided life for them is fascinating; nothing was ever over-harvested. We always thought the abundance was because of the richness of the tropics, but now we see their abundance was cultivated and enhanced using natural ecosystems. This is a lesson we in our “modern, civilized” society should learn from and emulate. After 7,000 years of rich human life, things got crazy with Columbus arriving and the European invasion—not to be confused with the British invasion of the 60s—this led to far more strife and hardship. However, again we tend to look at this far more simply than it actually was and is. Each race, religion and culture brought its own history of agony, triumph, celebration and food... lots and lots of mouth-watering food. It’s all about the “Lime”! Ahh.. Liming, the art of having fun; we did not invent it; we just pursue it every day, every hour, every minute. The word comes from some folks who are often considered the world’s most boring people; the “Limeys” = the British! They came to T&T, crossing the Atlantic in rough seas, and upon landing they celebrated in the rum shops and brothels. Everyone figured “Ok, this looks fun”, and joined in; why not? But this was a time of religious and racial division, so the Africans’ and Indians’ drumming and religion was outlawed or suppressed. So we found ways to sneak these into our Carnival, which only comes to fruition when the French, Africans, Portuguese, British, rich, poor, Hindu, Muslim, everyone, put their stamp on it and made it their own. So now you can listen to the steel pan play classical music with the same infectious, direct-to-your-heart, soul-stirring rapture as it plays calypso or reggae. Of course, you can do that while enjoying a Trini/Indian delicacy like doubles, or the food of our newest migrants; the Syrian/Lebanese and their authentic gyros. In the end, the deliciousness of the food, the sheer elation of the music and human desire to have fun with other human beings won us all an amazing, diverse and unique society. Tel: (868) 633-1403/4733 Email: ttitoa@tstt.net.tt Web: www.ttitoa.com
Blanchisseuse, North Coast Photo: Martin Farinha
Touring
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Touring
Photo: Chris Morvan
Harmonise with nature at the Emperor Valley Zoo The Emperor Valley Zoo, named after the magnificent Emperor butterfly that once frequented this natural valley, is situated adjacent to the Botanical Gardens, Port of Spain. The exhibits are spread over 7.2 acres, with much of the flora of the original site retained. Enclosures, pathways, fences and buildings have been incorporated into the natural topography, creating a wilderness atmosphere and a feeling of relaxation for the many visitors who come each year. The Zoo opened its gates to the public in 1952 and showcases local as well as exotic species. Visit the Zoo today to see many of the fascinating reptiles, birds, mammals and fish! Get face to face with Simba, Scar, Mufasa and Kovu, the adult African lions, or view the pair of playful Giant otters swimming underwater. Be amazed at Mustard, the 12-foot albino Burmese python, or admire the flock of graceful Caribbean flamingos. On weekends, experience the thrill of witnessing the snake, black caiman and crocodile feedings carried out by our friendly and experienced zookeepers. Interact with macaws Saheena, Pholorie and Chutney, three of the Zoo’s Animal Ambassadors, as they display their vibrantly coloured plumage. Don’t miss the new animal attractions coming soon! Visit the Zoo today for a family fun time! Emperor Valley Zoo (868) 622-3530/5344 Zoo Tour bookings available! www.zstt.org Photos: Courtesy the Emperor Valley Zoo
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Photo: CaféMoka Gallery
BEACHES
Beaches
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ordered by the Caribbean Sea on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other, Trinidad’s splendid beaches remain unspoilt and within reach of avid surf seekers, sun worshippers and beach enthusiasts in general. The journey in itself can often be a breath-taking experience, particularly along the North Coast Road to the magnificent Maracas Beach, or any of the picturesque villages and seaside spots in this relatively rural area. The rugged north-east coastline is truly a surfer’s paradise, blessed with waves throughout the year. From November to April, ocean swells approaching from the north-east produce good surf breaks, while May to September the waters are calm and idyllic, great for swimming. Within easy reach of the capital, the welldeveloped north-west shoreline offers a variety of activities, from offshore island exploration to water sports. “Down the islands” – the offshore islands of the Trinidad’s western peninsula – are popular for fishing and boating, where a spectacular vision of lush hills, embroidered with holiday homes, meets deep blue sea. On the south-west coast, there are some excellent beaches, perfect for relaxation after a visit to the extraordinary Pitch Lake and La Brea. Waters can sometimes appear muddy due to sediment from the Orinoco River. Facing the Atlantic Ocean along the east coast, the sea floor is characterised by shifting sand, and special care should be taken when bathing along this shoreline. Rip currents here are a common feature, though a relatively inconspicuous natural phenomenon. These currents are narrow streams of water that flow away from the beach and out towards deeper water. If you remain calm, you can escape them. Rip currents push you out to sea; they do not pull you down, so it is best to go with the flow. Swim parallel to the beach until you are out of the current, then swim to shore using the waves to push you in. Non-swimmers should stay out of water that is higher than waist deep. In Trinidad, lifeguards patrol most popular beaches during the weekends and public holidays. However, they do not patrol many of the more secluded beaches. Seek the services of professional tour guides for more adventurous excursions.
Maracas Bay Photo: Gregory Scott
Maracas Bay is Trinidad’s most popular beach, with access from Port of Spain via the scenic north coast. Facilities include car parks and changing rooms, and vendors sell the popular “bake and shark” sandwiches, amongst other local fare. A fishing village and a hotel exist on the western end of the bay. Lifeguards are on duty from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. but extreme caution is recommended, especially from November to April. Rip tides and strong waves occur, so those with small children should be particularly careful. The beach is approximately 1.8 km long, with fine-grained, offwhite sand.
Las Cuevas
Along the north coast road lies the scenic Las Cuevas beach. Las Cuevas has 2.2 kilometres of fine-grained, offwhite sand, bound at either end by “the caves” for which it is named. The majestic El Tucuche peak rises in the background. Two small inns overlook the bay, and snack bar, car park, picnicking and changing room facilities are available. Lifeguard services are generally provided from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., and fresh fish is sold daily. A backdrop of natural vegetation and a big, wide river make Las Cuevas a favourite of surfers, campers and “off-road” drivers. Photo: Gregory Scott
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Cathedral Rock, Paria Bay Photo: Gregory Scott
Beaches Blanchisseuse Bay
Blanchisseuse Bay is one of Blanchisseuse village’s three main beaches. The bay is located on the north coast, approximately 18 km east of Maracas Bay. Access is through the North Coast Road or the scenic Arima-Blanchisseuse Road. The beach is 1.4 km long, with light-brown and medium-grained sand. It is characterised by plunging breakers and strong rip currents that can make swimming quite dangerous. Swimming at the shallow mouth of the Marianne River is safer, while kayaking is also done up the river. Caution is recommended for both activities.
Macqueripe
Follow the length of the Tucker Valley Road (off the main road in Chaguaramas) and encounter one of most unspoiled pebbled beaches in Trinidad. Uncontaminated by river activity, the water in this small bay is usually clear and calm, with the occasional chance of rough seas during November to April. Upon entering the water, you’ll find that the beach has a downward slope, with the gradient increasing to make it surprisingly deeper further out. Facilities include a paved car park, picnic tables, benches, a children’s play area, changing rooms and toilet facilities.
Scotland Bay
On the north-western tip of Trinidad in the Chaguaramas peninsula rests Scotland Bay. Primarily accessible only by boat, the U-shaped bay is very sheltered and an excellent location for boaters and campers, for swimming and snorkelling. Being a rain shadow area, the water is clear and calm for the majority of the year. Cliffs of rich vegetation lead to sand and shingle
beaches, introducing one of the many gorgeous “down the islands” settings. Scotland Bay draws not only kayakers and snorkelers but a vast number of sailboats and cruisers, which take full opportunity to moor inside this haven.
Vessigny Beach
Vessigny Beach trims the edge of Vessigny village in south Trinidad, just three kilometres past Trinidad’s famous La Brea Pitch Lake. The water is generally cleaner during the dry season, with calm seas and low waves. White sand has been brought in to enhance this beach’s natural dark brown sand. In addition to a car park and camp grounds, there are changing rooms, picnic tables and a snack bar open on weekends and during school holidays. Lifeguards stationed at the beach generally work from 10:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. This is a very popular beach and can be crowded on public holidays with beach parties and bus excursions.
Granville Beach
One of best camping locations in southern Trinidad, this moderately sloping beach has low to moderate energy waves. The water is usually clear, except after periods of heavy rainfall, with a half mile of fine brown sand to satisfy campers and swimmers alike. Although quite popular, this is one of the smaller Trinidad beaches, where there are no lifeguards. A paved car park is provided for visitor convenience, along with toilet facilities and a private beach facility. There are a few beach houses along the northern section of the beach, which are also available for rental.
Manzanilla Beach Photo: Aujourd’hui Studio
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Beaches Quinam Beach
Probably the most popular south coast beach, Quinam is approximately 1.6 kilometres long, with waters good for swimming, although there are moderate currents along the beach. The sand is fine and brown, although it disappears during high tide. A favourite for weekend family outings, Quinam offers an opportunity to explore trails into the woods. A lifeguard station is posted at this site and a large car park directly faces the beach. A recreational park 150 metres before the beach provides an interpretative centre, huts, tables, benches and barbecue pits. Camping and fishing are popular.
Salybia
Off the Toco Main Road on the north-east coast, the two indentations of Salybia Bay, with its blue-green water and a shoreline of coconut and almond trees, guarantees an attractive sight. An expanse of reef on the eastern section of this windswept beach filters the water, making it a calm, clean swimming area at low tide and a surfers’ paradise at high tide. The western section of the beach does not have a reef and is deeper, with weak easterly currents. There is plenty of shade along the shore, and although snack vendors abound in the vicinity, there are no facilities. Salybia is a popular camping location, with a beach resort located nearby.
Sans Souci Bay
Sans Souci, together with Toco and Salybia Bays, is the surfers’ paradise in Trinidad. The best surfing waves break during the months of November to April. Competitions are
organised by the Surfing Association of T&T and locals welcome visiting surfers. Sans Souci is approximately 300 metres long, with medium-grained, dark grey sand. The water is clearer during the months of May to September, with more ideal swimming conditions during this time. Located along the Paria Main Road, this bay is some 7 km from the Toco Junction along the rugged north coastline and mountainous landscape.
Grande Riviere Bay
Grande Riviere has become internationally known as an important nesting ground for the leatherback turtle (Dermchelys coriacea). The turtle’s nesting season lasts from March to August. There are several hotels nearby. For more on turtle watching see page 76. The beach is approximately 1.2 km long, with coarse yellowish sand and usually clear water. Swimming is safest from May to October; waves are much rougher at other times. The river, a beautiful feature of the area, enters on to the eastern side of the beach.
Mayaro
Many Trinidadians own holiday homes along the CocosManzanilla-Mayaro stretch on the east coast of Trinidad. This beach strip is characterised by swaying coconut trees, and Easter and the July-August vacation are popular times for visiting. “Chip chip” (Donax striatus), a bivalve, is commonly found in the sand, and chip chip cocktail is served by locals. June to August are the best times for swimming at Mayaro, but surging breakers, tidal fluctuations and rip currents make swimming generally dangerous. The sand is fine-grained and light-brown in colour.
Maracas Bay, North Coast Photo: Joshua Joseph
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SIGHTS
Sights
Photo: Ayanna Young
Sights The Temple in the Sea in Waterloo Village (located southwest of the borough of Chaguanas) is a testament to the religious devotion of one man, and a sacred site for Hindus all over the world. Siewdass Sadhu, an Indian indentured labourer and a true devotee, built this duplicate of a Hindu temple literally in the sea. His first attempt to build a temple on sugar cane land was torn down by the estate owners, and he spent 25 years painstakingly carrying buckets of dirt out into the ocean to build the mandir by himself, even as the sea itself constantly eroded his efforts. He died and never finished. In 1994, the Government of Trinidad and Tobago properly reclaimed the temple’s foundation and renovated the mandir to honour the 150th anniversary of Indian Arrival Day. It stands now like a spiritual oasis, almost floating atop the waters of the Gulf of Paria. Opening hours for the grounds are from 8:00 a.m. to 12:00 noon. For the mandir, opening hours are from 8:00 a.m. to 12:00 noon, and by appointment. For more information, call Pamela Gokool at (868) 6365408 or e-mail pamels_3@hotmail.com.
Western Sights The Magnificent Seven, located on the western side of the Queen’s Park Savannah, are seven renowned architectural masterpieces. The President’s House, Botanical Gardens and Emperor Valley Zoo are on the northern end of the Savannah. The beautifully manicured Gardens provide wonderful photo opportunities and a peaceful interlude for relaxing. The National Museum, located at the southeastern corner of the Savannah, opposite Memorial Square, showcases historical exhibits and an annual Carnival programme. Trinidad and Tobago Police Service Museum is located at the Old Police Headquarters on St. Vincent Street in Port of Spain, and is open Tuesday – Thursday 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. and Saturday 10:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m., except public holidays. Photo: Peter Sheppard
Photo: Gregory Scott
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Take a stroll along the Brian Lara Promenade, where you can enjoy an ice-cold beer from the many bars that line the streets. The Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, with its nineteenth-Century stained glass windows, towers over the city. Trinity Cathedral, at the top of Chacon Street, with its statue of Governor Woodford, is also worth a visit. A sacred labyrinth (ancient walking meditation tool) on the grounds of the Cathedral is a spiritual oasis in the midst of the bustling city. The Cathedral is one of many buildings surrounding Woodford Square, which include City Hall, Hall of Justice, Greyfriars Presbyterian Church, the Red House (historically the seat of Trinidad and Tobago’s Parliament, but this has been relocated to the International Waterfront Centre during renovations), Old Fire Station, and the National Library on Abercromby Street. The Chaguaramas Base and the Chaguaramas Military & Aerospace Museum house interesting historical artefacts of wartime. On the compound of the Museum are four consecrated Memorials alongside military vehicles, vessels, artillery and aircraft. The indoor museum covers over 500 years of history.
Scarlet Macaw Photo: Martin Farinha
Sights
Caroni Bird Sanctuary Photo: Stephen Broadbridge
Located in the Bocas del Dragón or Dragon’s Mouth, are the five islands referred to as “Down the islands”: Chacachacare, Huevos, Gasparillo (or Centipede Island), Monos, and Gaspar Grande (or Gasparee). Many locals have holiday homes on Monos and Gasparee, within easy access by boat from Chaguaramas. Scotland Bay is also very popular with locals on weekends.
Mount St. Benedict Monastery sits atop a hill in the north, overlooking south and central Trinidad. It offers spectacular views, nature tours and exhibitions. Accommodation is available at Pax Guest House, renowned for its afternoon teas and simple but sumptuous dinners. Dine either indoors or, if it’s not raining, out on the balcony, which overlooks mountains and treetops under the stars.
Northern Sights
Cleaver Woods, situated on the Arima Old Road, is famous for the Amerindian Museum, which houses the works of indigenous craftspeople. Arima is well known for the last remaining Santa Rosa Caribs, who hold annual festivities there. The Asa Wright Nature Centre was established in 1967 in order to protect and preserve part of the Arima Valley. It is globally renowned among ornithologists and birdwatchers. For details call (868) 667-4655; send an e-mail to asawright@tstt.net.tt or visit asawright.org.
Paramin Village, especially during the Christmas season, is famous for its Parang Festivals and delightful cuisine, as well as breathtaking views. The charming village of Lopinot has a museum, a river, picnic tables, a cosy restaurant and playing field, and is rumoured to be haunted by the Count de Lopinot. The Angostura Museum, located in Laventille at the House of Angostura, features a display of corporate and national history. For information and to arrange a tour guide, call (868) 6231841/5 or visit www.angostura.com/contactus. The Eric Williams Memorial Collection is housed in the library of the University of the West Indies, St. Augustine Campus. The Collection holds the library and archives of the late Dr. Eric Eustace Williams, historian, educator and the first Prime Minister of Trinidad and Tobago. He led the country to Independence from Britain and to becoming a Republic. The Collection is organised around the themes: Family, Scholarship, Statesmanship, Education, Industrial Development, Politics, and Private Study. It is open to the general public on the last two Saturdays of every month from 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. School groups are welcome on Fridays from 9:00 a.m. to noon. For more information and to make reservations, contact the UWI Alma Jordan Library at (868) 662-2002 or 645-3232/4 Ext. 82132, 83506 or 83361.
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North-eastern Trinidad beaches like Matura and Grande Riviere are two of the few remaining nesting sites for leatherback turtles in the world. In order to go turtle viewing with a certified tour guide, you need to obtain a permit from one of the Forestry Division’s offices. The Division will also be able to direct you to an authorised tour guide or tour operator; these guides are trained to preserve the ecological balance of the turtles’ nesting ground. Leatherbacks are sensitive to disturbances while laying, so please listen and obey all the tour guides’ rules while viewing the nesting process. For more information, please call the Forestry Division’s offices located in San Fernando (call 868-6578391/7257), Sangre Grande (call 868-668-3825) or Port of Spain (call 868-622-7476). Permits are TT$5 for adults and TT$2 for children and must be collected at the Forestry Division offices. You’ll also be expected to pay tour guides’ fees or to tip volunteer guides.
Sights Central and South Sights In central Trinidad, the Hanuman Murti, located in Carapichaima, is an awesome Hindu religious site. Lion House, formerly the home of Nobel laureate Sir Vidya Naipaul, stands aloof in Chaguanas. If you’re in Waterloo Village heading to the Temple in the Sea, be sure to stop by D’ Indian Caribbean Museum of T&T on Waterloo Road, Carapichaima. The museum is one of a kind, dedicated to the preservation of the material history of over one million descendants of East Indians in the Caribbean. The collection of artefacts is vast, including musical instruments; immigration documents; agricultural tools; religious ritual items; cooking utensils; old photographs of the original East Indian indentured labourers; and historical books over 100 years old. School visitors, tourists, researchers and diplomats all visit the museum to use its resources. Visits to the museum are free of charge, but large groups are asked to schedule tours beforehand. D Indian Caribbean Museum of T&T is a non-profit organisation affiliated with the TDC and the National Museum. Opening hours are from Wednesday to Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. For more information, contact the curator at (868) 673-7007 or e-mail icmus@tstt. net.tt. The Wild Fowl Trust in Pointe à Pierre is a beautiful nature park with tours and nature trails. At the Trust, you can view the beautiful waterfowl of Trinidad and Tobago, and lakes that house a wildlife reserve that has been in existence for over thirty years. It is unique to the Caribbean region. Tours are from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. on weekdays and 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. on weekends. For more information, contact the Trust at (868) 658-4200 ext. 2512, two days in advance. La Vega Estate, located in Gran Couva, from its humble beginnings as a cocoa estate, has grown and blossomed into a thriving nursery and garden centre, with outlets in north and south Trinidad. La Vega has opened its gates to the public and offers fun for the entire family. La Vega is also home to a shrine dedicated to the Divine Mercy of Jesus. For further information call (868) 679-9522. Our Lady of Montserrat RC Church is located approximately ten minutes from the Solomon Hochoy Highway after turning onto the Claxton Bay flyover. This spiritual oasis commands a panoramic view over much of Trinidad. Designed by a French priest named Fr. Marie Jules Dupoux of Avignon, the building retains its original wooden frame and stained-glass windows, bought and crafted in France. The Church is also home to many holy statues, but the Black Madonna holds court above them all. Many believers travel to Our Lady of Montserrat to pay homage to and to ask for the intercession of the Blessed Virgin. For more information, contact the Church Office at 650-0082 or 636-0769. In the south, San Fernando Hill offers a picturesque nature trail and fabulous lookout over the heart of the city. For further information, contact the San Fernando Office of the Forestry Division at (868) 653-9563. The La Brea Pitch Lake is the largest asphalt lake in the world. Located on Trinidad’s south-west peninsula, the lake provides the entire country, and many of the neighbouring islands, with pitch for building roads. The ride along the road is like a roller coaster from the melting pitch underground, and the sulphur lakes are well known for their healing properties. Please use one of the Tourism Development Company (TDC) official tour guides ONLY. You can find them within the La Brea Pitch Lake Facility. Persons offering tours outside the facility are NOT authorised to conduct tours on the TDC’s behalf. Official TDC-approved tour guides are outfitted in red polo shirts with the La Brea Pitch Lake logo on the front and the words “OFFICIAL TOUR GUIDE” on the back. Open daily from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Adults pay TT$30; children between 6 and 12 years pay TT$12. Children under 6 years are free. For further information, call the TDC at (868) 651-1232. The Devil’s Woodyard, where the mini mud volcanoes belch out thick, chocolaty mud, is a delight for the kids to witness. There is a small play and picnic area nearby. Point-a-Pierre Wild Fowl Trust Photo: Ayanna Young
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Photo: Gregory Scott
Photo: Kevin Kenny
Photo: Gregory Scott
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Trinidad and Tobago is well known within the global energy business for its thriving oil and natural gas sector. We’re a major exporter of LNG, and are among the world’s largest exporters of ammonia and methanol, with gasconsuming industries producing other petrochemicals, as well as metals. Cognizant of the fact that energy reserves are finite, T&T has sought to diversify, with an emphasis on agribusiness, information and communications technology, light manufacturing and, of course, tourism. But a wonderful thing is happening within our business sector: the new opportunities are no longer the purview of the industrial giants and the upper echelons. With technology, communications, and speedy transportation providing cheap and ready access to information, raw materials and new markets, small and micro-businesses are coming into their own. Furthermore, government and private programmes are offering such a wide range of training and certifications that any ambitious entrepreneur, with the most basic education, can get trained, receive funding, and set himself up in a cottage business. People who were formerly limited to working for others are now able to imagine, design, and create their own destiny. Those with a love of the sea can learn boat-building, engine maintenance and net repair. The domestically inclined can learn to make use of T&T’s never-ending assortment of fruit and vegetables to concoct sumptuous jams, jellies, and other condiments. Others satisfy their artistic yearnings by pouring their souls out on canvas, clay or wood. So as you browse the markets, or stop by that makeshift little roadside shed to admire the display of bead earrings, remember that your purchase will gladden two hearts: that of the recipient of your intended gift, and that of the Trinbagonian who has finally been able to escape the heartbreak of unemployment or underemployment to become a truly independent, selfreliant businessperson.
B
USINESS Photo: Sarah Carter
Meet a TRINI
Karen Martinez
Film Writer/Maker/Director By Nasser Khan
K
aren Martinez grew up in Trinidad, but, upon finishing her studies at Holy Name Convent, left to further her education at the University of Westminster in England, where she switched from photography to filmmaking as her major. She returns regularly to her homeland, and has evolved into a full-time short film writer/film maker. Following her graduation from university, she returned to Trinidad, where she did a stint as a producer/director with the Banyan-Gayelle television production company before returning to further her career in the UK. In London, she made a number of films for BBC’s Channel 4, including Kaiso for July 27, a 22-minute musical-lyrical documentary about the 1990 attempted coup in Trinidad, in which she incorporated interviews, song, street theatre, archive footage, visual poetry, vox pops and analysis. She also produced Chutney in Yuh Soca, and recently completed a love drama short film which she wrote, called After Mas, set in Port of Spain. In 2011 she made a short film about a theatre project that works with formerly trafficked women in the UK, called Marginal Voices (screened at the trinidad + tobago film festival 2011), and is shooting a longer documentary about the women’s attempt to stage a play that they are devising in collaboration with award-winning playwright, Bola Agbaje. For the launch of the novel Light Falling on Bamboo by London-based Trinidadian, Lawrence Scott, Martinez produced a short film, and with the poet Vahni Capildeo she made a more experimental piece, Dark and Unaccustomed Words. Chutney in Yuh Soca is a 21-minute art documentary examining the phenomenon of chutney soca, a musical hybrid from Trinidad & Tobago that blends the traditions of the islands’ two biggest ethnic groups – Indian and African. As much political as musical, the film suggests that through the musical genres
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Photos: Maria Nunes
of two different cultures, sometimes perceived as being at odds, there can be a coming together in a new exciting fusion of music and sound. In an interview, Martinez says, “I tried to show that it was through the music in Trinidad that the races of this rainbow nation are coming closer together….” Her latest short film, After Mas, is a 15-minute drama that tells the story of a love that flourishes under the cover of darkness on the streets of Port of Spain, during the early morning J’Ouvert (the eve of Carnival) celebration. Martinez’ inclination towards tackling identity issues, particularly Trinidadian identity, is highlighted in After Mas, which she describes as “an archetypal love story dealing with the conflict of trying to be true to your desire when you come from different backgrounds.” The main characters in After Mas are of two different races and have to negotiate subtle, unseen and unspoken societal constraints. Following its showing at the trinidad + tobago film festival in September 2013, “After Mas” was adjudged the “Best Local Short” film. Although Martinez has lived in England for more than 20 years, she affirms her attachment to her homeland through her films. “When I think of ideas I tend to think much more of things that have to do with the Caribbean…that’s where I’m constantly drawn back to — Trinidad. That’s my strength. That’s my identity.” Her goal is to write a feature film that will be shot entirely in Trinidad and Tobago, and she is currently developing a number of projects, including a lyrical documentary called Dreams in Transit about migrants and the relationship to the place they call “home”. Set in London and Trinidad & Tobago, it is a collaboration with Trinidadian writer and poet Vahni Capildeo and composer Dominique Le Gendre, and mixes fiction with actuality. She is also working on a script for her first narrative feature, also set in Trinidad and London.
Photo: Stephen Broadbridge
Business
T&T’s film industry
On the brink of something big By Ruth Osman
H
ow many Caribbean films do you know? The question would give pause to even the most avid film fan. No one can doubt the Caribbean’s appeal as a film location. Thousands of miles of sundrenched vegetation and white sandy beaches surrounded by crystal-blue waters have made this region a mecca for tourists and filmmakers alike. But when it comes to films that are directed and produced by Caribbean nationals, particularly those from the Englishspeaking Caribbean, the pickings are few and far between. In Trinidad and Tobago, the emergence of a local film sector dates back to the 1960s, with a handful of programmes being produced in the following decades. Now, the stage seems set for a change in the fortunes of Caribbean film as local documentaries, feature films and shorts capture the hearts and imaginations of film-lovers. That growing interest in local fare is most evident during the trinidad + tobago film festival, an annual celebration of films from Trinidad and Tobago, the region and the Caribbean Diaspora. The ttff, as it is known, was founded in 2006, in an attempt to facilitate the growth of the Caribbean Film Industry. In that first year, just over 1,000 tickets were sold. Compare that to the 18,000 tickets sold for this year’s festival and one could be forgiven for concluding that local film is on the cusp of something big. For some, the optimism is tempered by a liberal dose of caution. Trinidad and Tobago, it seems, has always had a lovehate relationship with film. Sean Hodgkinson, writer, producer and director of A Story About Wendy, a recently released and well-received local film, explains, “It seems to me like every 10 to 15 years, there’s a boom and bust cycle, where the industry comes up and then it just fades. I think we’re on a boom now.” Hodgkinson does not doubt that the current state of affairs could evolve into a thriving film industry; he argues, however, that the most must be made of the opportunities presented by the public’s thirst for local fare. Technological tools like social media, for instance, must be used to ride the wave of popular demand and ensure a place for local film in our pantheon of established art forms.
Annabelle Alcazar, Programme Director for the ttff, agrees that there is still much work to be done, but posits that the makings of a film industry are beginning to emerge. “I think we’re getting there. I wouldn’t say we have a fully fledged industry, but I think that we’re certainly along the path ... certainly encouraging more people to be involved in film,” she says. She is careful to point out that the growing interest in Caribbean film, and in the festival itself, is not just limited to the local audience. Filmmakers and companies from around the world are beginning to show an interest in attending the festival’s workshops and screenings. “I think that we’re really seen now as the premiere anglophone Caribbean film festival,” she asserts, noting that the festival has also been invited to make appearances at other international film festivals. The ttff’s success, however, cannot be viewed in isolation from the many other initiatives and organisations that seek to support and assist the development of local film. The Trinidad and Tobago Film Company (TTFC), a single-purpose company designed to be the primary vehicle for the development of the local films through the provision of service and support, is one such institution. Established as a local agency in 2006, the TTFC has been mandated to establish Trinidad and Tobago as a premiere film location and production centre within the global film industry. To this end, the company provides a variety of services to filmmakers, including rebates for filming in Trinidad and Tobago, and administrative and other support services. Filmmakers, both local and visiting, will find a growing cadre of talent ready and eager to put their skills to good use. Trained in the various aspects of animation and film production at Trinidad and Tobago’s best tertiary institutions, these new professionals are poised to help us realise a dream that has been more than 50 years in the making — a thriving film industry that reflects the colour, diversity and uniqueness of our Caribbean heritage.
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Photo: Edison Boodoosingh
Feature
Tamboo Bamboo By Sheldon Waithe
T
rinidadians are resourceful people; one only has to look at our musical history to support that claim. This is the country that invented the only truly new musical instrument of the 20th Century, the steel pan, a percussive instrument made from the steel drums discarded from the oil industry, Trinidad’s main economic driver for over a century. But long before someone recognised the potential of the steel drum as an instrument that could produce a variety of sounds, there was another instrument that ruled the streets. Like the steel pan, the Tamboo Bamboo was a product of the environment. Banned through law from playing their drums, which colonial masters believed they used to communicate with to organise uprisings, Africans in Trinidad searched for percussive instruments with which to make their music. The bamboo, a resilient plant found all over the island, proved a worthy substitute. The bamboo was cut in varying lengths and hollowed out. To get a sound out of the bamboo, the musicians would pound the longer pieces on the road as they paraded, while the shorter pieces would be struck with mallets. Soon, Tamboo Bamboo bands developed, each creating a variety of percussive sounds. There were four main types of bamboo instruments: The Boom, played by pounding the bamboo on the ground to create a bass sound; The Foule or Fullers, which emitted a tenor sound and was played by striking it with a mallet or stick; the Cutters, shorter pieces with a soprano sound that was also played by striking it with a stick or mallet, and the Chandlers, which gave off an alto sound.
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The bamboo instruments were complemented by other musical instruments, which helped to round out the sound of the band. Tamboo Bamboo music became the sound track for stick-fights, folk dances, wakes and festivals, particularly Carnival, when other musicians joined in. By the early 1900s, Tamboo Bamboo bands had grown in popularity, and as they grew, so too did band rivalries. It wasn’t uncommon for clashes to take place, with the instruments doubling as weapons. In 1934, the British authorities placed Tamboo Bamboo on the banned list, supposedly to preserve the bamboo plant, but also to curb the violence. By this time, anyway, according to Trinbagopan.com, many people in the bamboo bands began to favour the metal instruments fashioned from old tin pans, graters, pot covers, pitch oil tins and the like, which were increasingly a part of the bamboo bands and which proved more durable, as the bamboo tended to shred easily from over-use. It is from here that the evolution of the steel band began to take shape. Author Selwyn Taradath wrote that 1935 is generally accepted as the watershed year for the transition from bamboo to metal. That was the year, he said, that the Newtown Tamboo Bamboo band, led by Lord Humbugger, discarded their lengths of bamboo and took to the streets for J’Ouvert with a full complement of metal containers. These included garbage bins and covers, biscuit drums, paint cans, brake drums, chamber pots, and bottles and spoons. Soon, other bands imitated them, and the Tamboo Bamboo, now relegated to village activities, quietly disappeared from the landscape.
Business
Banking From the Palm of Your Hand
I
magine this…
You are at the airport, preparing to board a flight, and you realise that you forgot to pay your credit card or you need to reload your Visa TravelMoney (VTM) card. There is no bank nearby, and you can’t conduct that transaction at the ABM. What can you do? Create your own branch, of course! With RepublicMobile SMS Banking, you can conduct various transactions using your mobile phone — you won’t have to set foot into a branch! At Republic Bank, we strive to provide a quality customer experience. RepublicMobile SMS Banking is yet another avenue through which customers can bridge the gap between banking and technology, and stay up to date in this fast-paced world. Banking trends have predicted that eventually, there will be fewer banks and emptier banking halls, substituted by more banking apps, and increased mobile phone and smartphone banking activity. RepublicMobile SMS Banking, launched in May 2013, provides a user-friendly alternative to standing in line at the Bank.
What can I do using RepublicMobile SMS Banking? • View account balances • Transfer funds between accounts • View transaction histories • Pay credit card bills and get immediate access to funds • Receive salary deposit confirmations • Receive other SMS alerts
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With RepublicMobile SMS Banking, we have provided a more efficient, alternate banking channel for our customers, ensuring that we deliver continued excellence in customer service, while solidifying our position as a leader in e-banking offerings. Any customers with a savings or chequing account, credit card or VTM card, can register for RepublicMobile SMS Banking. Over 8,000 customers have registered for it, and the numbers continue to grow. Create your own branch of Republic Bank today, when you sign up for SMS Banking. It’s quick, easy and convenient.
Welcome to Trinidad and Tobago! The fact that Trinidad is primarily a business destination has resulted in our accommodation options being of high quality and widely varied. Regardless of your needs as a business or leisure traveller, there is something to satisfy everyone here. Whether you’re interested in a small inn or guest house, or a boutique hotel with all the extras, or even an internationally branded hotel, Trinidad has it. Port of Spain, the island’s capital, has traditionally been the destination of most visitors to Trinidad, and is the location of the majority of large branded properties. A great portion of these hotels can be categorized as competitive business-oriented hotels that are capable of hosting meetings, events and conferences of all sizes. We recognize that some business travellers prefer a local flavour, so there are locally owned and operated facilities in a range of sizes that can compete quite readily with the internationally branded hotels. Our properties are located throughout the island, so if you need to be close to the oil and energybased sector there are a number of excellent options in Pointe a Pierre and San Fernando; if you need to be near the business city centre, there are a number of different hotels, guest houses and host home options in and around Port of Spain. There are more intimate and budget-friendly options available in Maraval, Cascade, St. Ann’s and St. Clair, which are all minutes away from the central business district. Trinidad is not only about business; we also have a very diverse eco-tourism product. Our accommodations include beachfront hotels ideal for turtle watching, as well as eco-lodges nestled in the forest, which provide the perfect spot for bird watching. Our western peninsula is great for boating, fishing and nature watching. Whatever your needs may be while in Trinidad, there is an ideal option available, so explore and discover some of these unique elements of Trinidad on your next visit. By The Trinidad Hotels, Restaurants and Tourism Association (THRTA)
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A
A
CCOMMODATION Photo: Peter Sheppard
Accommodation
Hyatt Regency Trinidad Hyatt Regency Trinidad, a luxurious high-rise hotel of contemporary design located in downtown Port of Spain, presents an unrivalled level of comfort, service and convenience among Trinidad hotels. This 428-room hotel, catering to business, convention and leisure travelers, boasts spacious suites and guestrooms with spectacular gulf and city views, flat-screen televisions, wired and wireless Internet and the signature Hyatt Grand BedTM. Also featured is a 16,000-square-foot Regency Ballroom, a 10,000-square-foot Port of Spain Ballroom; a full-service restaurant; lobby bar and lounge; sushi bar; a 9,000 square-foot spa; state-of-the-art fitness center and rooftop infinity pool with stunning panoramic views of the Gulf. Address 1 Wrightson Road, Port of Spain, Trinidad, W.I. Tel (868) 623-2222 Fax (868) 821-6401 Reservations trirt.reservation@hyatt.com Facebook facebook.com/hyattregencytrinidad Web trinidad.hyatt.com Twitter @HyattTrinidad
Courtyard by Marriott Refresh your travel experience at the Courtyard by Marriott, Port of Spain. This contemporary hotel features a re-designed lobby, restaurant, library and business centre. The 119 spacious guest rooms and suites offer plush beds, large work desks with ergonomic task chairs, and free Internet access. The hotel is conveniently located 40 minutes from the international airport, just 10 minutes away from the city centre, and within walking distance of the MovieTowne Entertainment Complex and the Hasley Crawford National Stadium. Host a memorable meeting or business event in any of our versatile conference rooms; the perfect setting for a small business dinner or social gathering.
Address Invaders Bay, Audrey Jeffers Highway, Port of Spain Tel (868) 627-5555 Fax (868) 627-6317 Web www.courtyardportofspain.com
Tradewinds Hotel Tradewinds Hotel is situated in the breezy residential area of St. Joseph Village, San Fernando, and has been owned and operated by the Laing Family since 1994. The forty-one-room “Home Away From Home” boasts friendly, helpful and courteous staff and an efficient management team, making it the first choice among the business sector. Rooms are spacious and fully equipped with minibar, cable TV, air-conditioning, safes and complimentary wireless Internet access. Meals are provided at the Driftwood Restaurant from as early as 5:00 a.m. and guests can also enjoy drinks and cutters at the On Deck Pub. Other facilities include: conferencing, mini-mart, gym with state-of-the-art equipment and instructors on site, swimming pool, massage therapist, souvenir shop and hair salon. Address #38 London Street, St. Joseph Village, San Fernando Tel (868) 652-9463 Email delia@tradewindshotel.com Web www.tradewindshotel.com
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Accommodation
Hilton Trinidad & Conference Centre This unique architecturally designed hotel is 45 minutes away from the Piarco International Airport and five minutes away from the business districts, historical sites and downtown shopping area. The hotel offers 418 rooms, including 27 suites, all with private balconies, high touch and high tech amenities. This Hilton hotel also offers superb meeting rooms and function spaces that can accommodate up to 900 persons. Other services and facilities include one restaurant; coffee shop; 2 bars; 24-hour room service; 2 Chevron tennis courts; outdoor swimming pools; a 5,000-squarefoot fitness centre with saunas; bank & ATM machine. Address 1B Lady Young Road, Port of Spain, Trinidad Tel (868) 624-3211 ext. 6040/6041 Fax (868) 624-4485 Email reservations.trinidad@hilton.com Web www.hiltontrinidadhotel.com Facebook www.facebook.com/hiltontrinidad Twitter www.twitter.com/hiltontrinidad
Kapok Hotel Ideally located, minutes away from Port of Spain, Banks, Embassies, Medical Institutions, Malls, the Queen’s Park Savannah and Oval. Our boutique hotel features a range of rooms, including balcony suites with separate living areas and cosy studio rooms with kitchenettes. Amenities include room service, complimentary Wi-Fi, laundry services, gym, pool and two full service restaurants. Visit KAVA, located lobby level, and enjoy an eclectic menu featuring artisan brick oven pizzas and classic cocktails or experience an evening of fine dining at our Asian restaurant, Tiki Village, on the 8th floor, and witness one of the most breathtaking panoramic views of the capital city. Address 16-18 Cotton Hill, St. Clair, Trinidad Tel (868) 622-KPOK (5765) Email stay@kapokhotel.com Web www.kapokhotel.com Facebook facebook.com/kapokhoteltrinidad Instagram @kapokhotel
Acajou Hotel ACAJOU is a small, eco-friendly, family-operated hotel situated on the beautiful and dramatic northern coast of Trinidad in a small fishing village called Grande Riviere. The hotel is built as a group of traditional cottages nestled between the beach, a crystal clear river and lush rainforest-covered mountains. What makes Grande Riviere unique are the hundreds of endangered leatherback turtles that nest here every year, from March until August. Please visit www.tripadvisor.com for unbiased reviews about ACAJOU Hotel.
Address Grande Riviere, Trinidad Tel (868) 670-3771 Fax: (868) 670-4566 Email info@acajoutrinidad.com Web www.acajoutrinidad.com
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Accommodation
Cara Suites Hotel & Conference Centre Try our Superior Executive Ocean or Garden View Rooms All our non-smoking Superior Executive Rooms include: full buffet breakfast; king-sized bed with pillow-top mattress & comforter; high speed Internet access; in-room safe; 32-inch flat-screen high definition television with cable; air conditioning; work desk & chair; stocked minibar with complimentary water; iPod docking station/ clock radio; reading chair with ottoman; direct-dial telephone; ceiling fan; microwave; hospitality tray; hair dryer; iron & ironing board, and complimentary daily newspaper. Address Pointe-a-Pierre, Southern Main Road, Claxton Bay, Trinidad Tel (868) 659-2271 Fax (868) 659-2202 Email carasuitespap@carahotels.com Web www.carahotels.com
Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites This attractive hotel is conveniently located five minutes from Piarco International Airport and thirty-five minutes from Port of Spain. It is situated within a growing urban development, close to the Millennium Lakes Golf and Country Club and Trincity Mall, and features a combination of eighty-two beautifully appointed guest rooms and suites. Take advantage of our complimentary airport shuttle, and enjoy our complimentary continental breakfast, complimentary Internet access, outdoor swimming pool, and Fitness and Business Centres. We also cater for small meetings. So whether you are travelling for business or recreation, the Holiday Inn Express and Suites, Trincity is the ideal place to STAY SMART. Address 1 Exposition Drive, Trincity Tel (868) 669-6209 Fax (868) 692-4557 Email holidayinnexpress2@tstt.net.tt Web www.hiexpress.com/trincitytt
Inna Citi Place At Inna Citi Place bed and breakfast we offer a warm and friendly experience in a secure and comfortable environment. Rooms are equipped with air-conditioning, cable TV, wireless Internet, ceiling fans and en-suite bathrooms. Comfort, service and great value characterise our offerings. Inna Citi Place bed and breakfast is located just minutes away from two of the best known entertainment centres of Port of Spain: St. James and Ariapita Avenue. It is six minutes’ drive from the historic Queen’s Park Savannah, and is within walking distance of the Queen’s Park Oval, banks, shopping malls, supermarkets, restaurants and churches. Address 15 Gaston Johnson Street, Woodbrook Tel (868) 622-0415 Mobile (868) 683-6132 Email innacitiplace@yahoo.com Web www.inna-citi-place.com
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Accommodation
Royal Hotel Royal Hotel is located in the city of San Fernando. Surrounded by an awesome canopy of Samaan trees and lush foliage, we welcome you to the warmth of our Southern hospitality. All rooms and suites are air-conditioned and outfitted with modern facilities for your every comfort. Enjoy a meal at our restaurant, which specialises in a variety of tasty Caribbean and International cuisines, or just sit back and relax at our bar and lounge or around our swimming pool. Our hotel also includes conference facilities as well as an ideal setting for wedding receptions, cocktail parties and other special functions. Ideally suited to the business traveler, we offer special group and long-term rates. Address 46-54 Royal Road, San Fernando, Trinidad Tel (868) 652-4881 Email info@royalhoteltt.com Web www.royalhoteltt.com
Le Grande Almandier Located 88 km from Piarco International Airport, Le Grande Almandier lies nestled between the almond trees and the beach. Here, the forested headlands border the magnificent coastline to the north and the majestic Grande Riviere River, from which the village gets its name, to the north-east. The perfect retreat to enjoy all that Mother Nature has to offer: the birds, the wildlife, the nesting leatherback turtles, fishing, boat tours and waterfall tours. The ten tastefully decorated rooms and suites sleep two to six persons. The ideal choice for anyone in search of peace and serenity in completely natural surroundings.
Address 2 Hosang Street, Grande Riviere, Trinidad Tel (868) 670-1013/2294 Fax (868) 670-2294 Email info@legrandealmandier.com Web www.legrandealmandier.com
The Le Sportel Inn The Le Sportel Inn is part of the Dr. João Havelange Centre of Excellence complex. Situated in east Trinidad, the “Centre of Excellence” is strategically located. Away from the Port of Spain traffic and just minutes from the airport, just off of the Churchill Roosevelt Highway, it’s designed to meet all your needs. The Le Sportel Inn boasts 44 rooms, which consist of 34 standard rooms, 8 executive suites, and 2 penthouses, which all offer a cool, comfortable, breezy tropical ambience. Contact us today to find out about our fabulous room rates! The preferred venue – perfect every time!
Address Macoya Road, Trinidad Tel (868) 299-0646 Fax (868) 662-8496 Web www.coetnt.com
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Accommodation
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Accommodation
Regent Star Hotel
Let your inner curiosity take over and visit our new boutique style hotel in Piarco. With the combination of international flair and the convenience of being only a minute away from the airport how can you resist? No matter what’s the occasion or travel purpose you can enjoy state of the art facilities. Our conference areas seat up to 300 people with WIFI and customised business packages to suit you. We have venues for weddings and events where we will tend to your every need on that special day. Why not be tempted to try our renowned cocktails and indulge in our award winning chef specialties at the Flavours Restaurant. After all that, sleep it off in our super comfy beds and wake up feeling like a star at Regent Star Hotel. Address 118-119 BWIA Boulevard, Piarco, Trinidad Tel (868) 669-STAR (7827) Fax (868) 669-7000 Email info@regentstarhotel.com Web www.regentstarhotel.com
ASA WRIGHT NATURE CENTRE The Perfect Sanctuary Nestled high in the rain forests of Trinidad’s Northern Range, the verandah of the Asa Wright Nature Centre looks down the Arima Valley, presenting a panoramic view of the rainforest and close-up sightings of an array of exotic birds. This idyllic site of almost two hundred acres of tropical rainforest, with its centerpiece old Estate House and surrounding rooms, caters to nature lovers, bird watchers, and all who appreciate a few days of difference, with forest trails, tumbling streams and exotic wildlife abounding.
Photo: Stephen Broadbridge
Address 7 3/4 Miles, Blanchisseuse Road, Arima, Trinidad Tel (868) 667-4655 Fax (868) 667-4540 Email asawright@tstt.net.tt Web www.asawright.org
Small Tourism Accommodation Owners of Trinidad and Tobago (S.T.A.O.T.T.) We are a network of Bed and Breakfast, Self-catering, and Host home property owners, who strive for excellence in the hospitality industry of Trinidad and Tobago. Our motto is “People, Hospitality, Service”, and we are dedicated to providing the people who visit our properties with the best in Caribbean hospitality and a high quality of service. Address P.O. Box 1657, Wrightson Road, Port of Spain, Trinidad and Tobago Fax (868) 621-5064 Email staott3@gmail.com Facebook www.facebook.com/tourism.accommodation Web www.trinistay.com
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Accommodation Hotels & Guest Houses in Trinidad HOTEL Location TELEPHONE E-MAIL International Access Code (868) ACAJOU HOTEL Grande Rivière 670-3771 info@acajoutrinidad.com AIRPORT SUITES HOTEL Piarco 669-0362 airportsuites@hotmail.com St. Ann’s 621-1017 info@aliciaspalace.com ALICIA’S PALACE ALICIA’S GUEST HOUSE St. Ann’s 623-2802 info@aliciashouse.com AMBASSADOR HOTEL St. James 628-9000 ambassador@wow.net ANISE RESORT AND SPA Sans Souci 670-4436 info@aniseresort.com ASA WRIGHT NATURE CENTRE & LODGE Arima 667-4655 asawright@tstt.net.tt RADISSON HOTEL TRINIDAD Port of Spain 625-3366 rhl_sptr@radisson.com CARA SUITES HOTEL & CONFERENCE Claxton Bay 659-2271 carasuitespap@carahotels.com CENTRE St. Ann’s 621-5000 info@thecarltonsavannah.com CARLTON SAVANNAH LIMITED CARNETTA’S INN Maraval 628-2732, 622-5165 hylite.carnettas@gmail.com COBLENTZ INN BOUTIQUE HOTEL Cascade 621-0541-4 coblentzinn@tstt.net.tt CORAL COVE MARINA HOTEL Chaguaramas 634-2040, 634-2244 coralcove@fiberline.tt COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT Port of Spain 627-5555 nicol.khelawan@courtyard.com CREWSINN HOTEL LIMITED Chaguaramas 634-4384 inquiries@crewsinn.com CULTURE CROSSROADS INN St. James 622-8788 culturecrossroadstt@gmail.com FORTY WINKS INN Newtown 622-0484, 628-0316 pam@fortywinkstt.com HACIENDA JACANA Talparo 498-7597 haciendajacana@gmail.com HILTON TRINIDAD AND CONFERENCE CENTRE Belmont 624-3211 reservations.trinidad@hilton.com HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS HOTEL & SUITES Trincity 669-6209 holidayinnexpress2@tstt.net.tt HOTEL NORMANDIE St. Ann’s 624-1181 sales@normandiett.com HYATT REGENCY Port of Spain 623-2222 INNA CITI PLACE Woodbrook 622-0415 innacitiplace@yahoo.com KAPOK HOTEL St. Clair 622-5765 stay@kapokhotel.com L’ORCHIDÉE BOUTIQUE HOTEL St. Ann’s 621-0618, 621-0063 reservations@trinidadhost homes.com LE GRANDE ALMANDIER Grande Rivière 670-2294, 670-1013 info@legrandealmandier.com LE SPORTEL INN Tunapuna 299-0646 info@coetnt.com MONIQUE’S Maraval 628-2351, 628-3334 info@moniquestrinidad.com MT. PLAISIR ESTATE HOTEL Grande Rivière 670-1868 maktoub@mac.com PAR MAY LA’S INN Port of Spain 628-4707 reservation@parmaylas.com PARIA SUITES La Romain 697-2742, 697-1442/3 info@pariasuites.com PAX GUESTHOUSE Tunapuna 662-4084 pax-g-h@trinidad.net REGENT STAR HOTEL Piarco 669-STAR info@regentstarhotel.com ROCK PARK HOTEL Las Lomas 669-9027 rocketparkhotel@hotmail.com SALYBIA NATURE RESORT AND SPA Mathura 668-5959, 691-3211 info@salybiaresort.com SMALL TOURISM ACCOMMODATION OWNERS OF T&T (STAOTT) Port of Spain 682-9589 staott3@gmail.com SUNDECK SUITES LIMITED Port of Spain 622-9560/1 reservations@sundecktrinidad.com THE CASCADIA HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE St. Ann’s 623-3511 marketing@cascadiahotel.com THE CHACONIA HOTEL Maraval 628-0941, 622-2346 bookme@chaconiahotel.com THE CHANCELLOR HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE St. Ann’s 623-0883 info@thechancellorhotel.com THE LINX SUITES HOTEL LIMITED San Fernando 652-9902 linxsuiteshotel@gmail.com THE ROYAL HOTEL (1978) LIMITED San Fernando 652-4881 info@royalhoteltt.com San Fernando 652-9463 delia@tradewindshotel.com TRADEWINDS HOTEL TRINIDAD MARACAS BAY HOTEL Maracas 669-1643, 669-1914 maracasbay@tstt.net.tt
WEBSITE
www.acajoutrinidad.com www.airportsuitestt.com www.aliciaspalace.com www.aliciashouse.com www.ambassadortt.com www.aniseresortandspa.com www.asawright.org http://www.radisson.com/ port-of-spain-hotel-tt/ttosptr www.carahotels.com www.thecarltonsavannah.com www.carnettasinn.com www.coblentzinn.com www.coralcovemarina.com www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/ poscy-courtyard-port-of-spain/ www.crewsinn.com www.culturecrossroadstt.com www.fortywinkstt.com www.haciendajacana.com www.hiltontrinidadhotel.com www.hiexpress.com/trincitytt www.normandiett.com www.trinidad.hyatt.com www.inna-citi-place.com www.kapokhotel.com www.trinidadhosthomes.com www.legrandealmandier.com www.coetnt.com www.moniquestrinidad.com www.mtplaisir.com www.trinidad.net/parmaylas www.pariasuites.com www.paxguesthouse.com www.regentstarhotel.com www.salybiaresort.com www.trinistay.com www.sundecktrinidad.com www.cascadiahotel.com www.chaconiahotel.com www.thechancellorhotel.com www.linxsuiteshotel.com www.royalhoteltt.com www.tradewindshotel.com www.maracasbay.com
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Photo: Sean Drakes
Photo: Sean Drakes
Photo: CaféMoka Gallery
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Zip lining in Trinidad. Up for it? How about relaxing with friends at the world-famous Maracas Bay with a delectable bake and shark filled with your favourite Trini condiments, and a beastly cold Carib lager beer? It’s as enticing as it sounds, but you can never truly understand the sweetness of Trinidad‘s recreation and entertainment landscape without giving yourself up completely to its cultural pull. It’s like a magnetic force that compels every visitor to kick away all inhibitions and simply…exhale. Known world over as Carnival central, T&T is the unofficial limer’s paradise of the Caribbean. Visitors can pop in in mid-July and experience a carnivalesque J’Ouvert in the wee hours of the morning, and a Carnival song, sung one year prior, can lift the spirits of a visitor in November, as he sails on one of the island’s party vessels, sending him into a trance that sees him booking his ticket to T&T again, for the Carnival to come mere months later. The simplicity of this island’s authenticity shines through and appeals to almost everyone. But don’t for a second think that entertainment in T&T is limited to Carnival, because it certainly isn’t. Daytime adventures can be as exciting as you make it, if you’re willing to push the envelope. With numerous beaches, rivers and even a few water parks, submerging oneself into the natural enjoyment that’s part and parcel of Trinidad is easy. Good friends, tasty local cuisine, music, and the ability to release your inhibitions is all it takes to create lifelong memories. Celebrities, much like the regular tourists, have basked in the exoticism of this land, from Damon Wayans, Tatyana Ali, Gabrielle Union, Jay-Z, and Nia Long to Queen Latifah. This mecca of energy is a haven for entertainment, just waiting for everyone to experience.
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NTERTAINMENT 102 NIGHTLIFE 104 MUSIC 106 SPORTS 110 SPECIAL EVENTS Photo: seandrakes.com
Photo: seandrakes.com
Photo: Stephen Broadbridge
LIME Fete at Hyatt Regency Trinidad. Photo: seandrakes.com
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NIGHTLIFE
Nightlife
Phenomenally Entertaining By Aba A. Luke
Zone in on Trinidad and you’ll be blown away by the number of recreational hot spots that await you in this metropolitan melting pot. Sister isle Tobago isn’t lagging behind, either. Though slightly quainter, the smaller island has its share of fun for the young trendsetter or the mature happy-time seeker. It’s safe to assume that the entertainment T&T offers has something to do with its being ranked the happiest destination in the Caribbean in 2013’s UN World Happiness Report, don’t you think? Multiculturalism definitely factors in when it comes to T&T’s entertainment landscape. With several ethnic denominations sprinkled about, there’s a sweet sense of cultural definition in every aspect of our teeming nightlife. From the southern end of Trinidad, where the prevalence of the East Indian race flavours almost everything with the taste of delectable curry cuisine and the sounds of chutney hits blaring from roadside bars, to the western side, where good friends gather at their preferred sushi and wine bars, the action never ceases to amaze. Stray a little further west where complete strangers assemble at the docks of any of the three party vessels and see and experience firsthand what our people are so passionate about. Music, cocktails and Caribbean rum, fashion and fast cars, good friends and freedom — it’s all in a night out on these tiny twin islands. Lounges and nightlife attractions are quickly adding to the sensuality of the island’s entertainment appeal. Here, global influences are always intertwined with the traditions of the islands, so when a strip called Ariapita Avenue begins to resemble Sunset Strip in LA, it’s no surprise. Rest assured, however, that the doubles vendor who plants himself on the corner outside a random nightspot on the Avenue from Thursday night through Sunday morning brings with him the authenticity of this Trinbago strip, which is truly unique to these islands. Think that’s all there is to entice? Think again. This year alone, new additions, such as Aria, have lit up the now trendy Ariapita Avenue in Woodbrook, Port of Spain. At the Trinidad Hilton, not far away, there’s Luce. And don’t forget Tao Sushi in Maraval. In San Fernando, Dream has opened its doors, adding another element of night-time fun to the Southern city. No matter what tickles your fancy, Trinidad and Tobago’s diversity translates into entertainment suited to you in one way or another. Theatre is incredibly enjoyable in these parts as local thespians like Raymond Choo Kong, Richard Ragoobarsingh, Penelope Spencer, Cecilia Salazar and others transmit their Caribbean flair in reproductions of real life situations, like Tony Hall’s biographical Miss Miles, which featured Salazar, and fictitious productions like Choo Kong’s How It Hang it Swing and Natalie Needs A Nightie. Theatre lovers often assemble in droves at venues like The Central Bank Auditorium, Queen’s Hall, Cipriani Labour College, the National Academy For the Performing Arts (NAPA), the Little Carib Theatre, and the Naparima Bowl to take in the fun. Entertainment is limitless in this place, where natives and visitors alike explore and partake in the sights, sounds and tastes with wild abandon. It is in this place that international recording superstars like Beyonce Knowles, John Legend and Keyshia Cole share stages with Caribbean hit makers like soca music’s Machel Montano, Blaxx, Shurwayne Winchester, FayAnn Lyons, and the ever-lyrical Bunji Garlin. It is only in this place…this Trinidad and Tobago... a place that never ceases to amaze.
Nightlife
Metro Nightclub Metro Nightclub offers an intimate venue located in the heart of San Fernando, with VIP bottle service, a cutting-edge dance floor, and a modern, trendy decor. If you want to be where all the beautiful people party then head down to Metro! Doors open from 10:00 p.m. on Friday and Saturday nights and we don’t close till late in the a.m. Metro is also available for event rentals such as corporate functions, weddings, office parties and more. Metro nightlife ... party hard!
Address 1014 Gulf View, San Fernando, Trinidad, W.I. Tel (868) 657-6346 Email rsvpmetro@gmail.com Facebook facebook @ Metro Nightlife © Aaron Achan Photography 2013 I AaronAchan.com
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Nightlife
Dream Ultra Lounge & Bar Escape from the city life in a sophisticated atmosphere as you sip handcrafted cocktails and taste a range of flavourful cuisine from our international chefs. Dream is a stylish lounge in the heart of San Fernando, featuring a modern indoor design and gorgeously landscaped outdoor deck. With private areas and cosy lounge and cocktail furniture, you will feel right at home. The deliciously chic atmosphere and sounds of contemporary music will make you want to lean back, slow down...and Dream. Dream Ultra Lounge is also available for rental for private functions. “Winner of the “Best Bar Experience” at the Trinidad and Tobago Table Talk Awards” Opening Hours: Monday –Thursday 11:00 a.m. – 11:00 p.m. Friday – Saturday 11:00 a.m. – 1:00 a.m. Address 1014 Gulf View, San Fernando, Trinidad, W.I. Tel (868) 223-CHIC (2442) Email info@dreamtrinidad.com Web www.dreamtrinidad.com
© Aaron Achan Photography 2013 I AaronAchan.com
“Stumblin” On The Avenue “STUMBLIN”, as the name suggests, is a bar whose patrons show no mercy and party until the wee hours of the morning, giving credence to the name as they stumble out the door at the end of the night. “STUMBLIN” is a unique sports bar that transforms into an energetic “party house” after the sports programming is done. Eight TVs surround the bar on 6 walls, both inside and outside on the patio. A more perfect venue could not be found for your office parties, personal parties, Christmas parties and Carnival events. With courteous and professional staff and the best DJs on the Avenue, “Stumblin” should be your choice when visiting the Avenue. Address 42A Ariapita Avenue, Woodbrook, Port of Spain Tel/Fax (868) 223 5017 Email info@stumblintt.com Facebook Stumblin-On-The-Avenue Web www.stumblintt.com
Luce Luce…located at the famous Hilton Trinidad Carnival bar, which is arguably one of the most spectacular locations for hospitality in Trinidad. Luce provides a world-class atmosphere for hotel guests and others to enjoy a premium cocktail bar, signature menu, sushi bar and Luce terrace, with sweeping glass walls facing south-western views of the Queen’s Park Savannah. Luce is establishing itself as a destination for upscale entertainment and enjoyment within the Caribbean.
HILTON TRINIDAD AND CONFERENCE CENTER Lady Young Road, Trinidad (t) 1 (868) 221 1724 (m) 1 (868) 688 LUCE (e) luceentertainment@gmail.com
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SPORTS
Sports
Photo: Abraham Diaz
Photo: Edison Boodoosingh
Photo: Abraham Diaz
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2013 Sports Review by Sheldon Waithe
There were medals of every colour, delivered by experienced athletes as well as eager newcomers, yet it was supposed to be a “quieter” year following the London Olympiad. As ever, Trinbago’s sportsmen and women answered the call of competition and belied the relatively small population by again excelling domestically, regionally and on the world stage. In the nation’s beloved football it was all change as the Football Association rebranded itself, brought in Stephen Hart as national coach and old favourite Leo Beenhakker as Director. With five consecutive losses at the beginning of 2013 and barely a month to prepare for the Concacaf Gold Cup, the Soca Warriors looked a changed unit, solid and purposeful, and did themselves proud by reaching the quarter-finals in the tournament. There was further progress in September at a four-nation competition in Saudi Arabia, with the Warriors losing on penalties to UAE and then beating the hosts 3-1. Then in October, the team held New Zealand to a goalless draw on home soil; positive signs of a u-turn as they prepare for the long road of qualification for the 2018 World Cup. Domestically, the TT Pro League was won by the Defence Force, taking their tally to an astonishing 22 titles. The army men were again present in the First Citizens Cup Final, but could do little to stop newcomers Central FC securing their first domestic title. The two other knock-out competitions, the FA Cup and the Digicel Pro Bowl, were taken by the Police and W Connection respectively. W Connection was also victorious in the season opening Digicel Charity Shield. If the national men’s team was undergoing some repair work, the junior women’s team, affectionately known as the “Soca Princesses”, was a well-oiled machine. They won the Caribbean Football Union Under-17 Championship, beating hosts Haiti, which qualifies the team for the Concacaf championship to be held in Jamaica. As Twenty20 cricket continues its phenomenal growth, there was major upheaval to the regional scene with the arrival of the Limacol Caribbean Premier League: finally the West Indies had its own top-flight T20 competition. It proved to be a runaway success; an entertainment package that captured fans’ attention, with the pyrotechnics providing fireworks off the pitch while the players did the same on the field of play. The Queen’s Park Oval hosted the semi-finals and final, with sold-out crowds watching Chris Gayle’s Tallawahs claim the inaugural trophy. The Oval also hosted three matches, including the Final, of a Tri-Series involving India, Sri Lanka and the Windies, with India winning after a thrilling finale versus Sri Lanka. The Red Force, T&T’s national team, again represented with aplomb at the T20 Champions League held in India, with a battling performance to reach the semi-finals. On the home front, there was a shift in supremacy as Powergen usurped Queen’s Park CC in the National League and T20, while the Oval men retained their Sunday League title with a convincing win over their League conquerors. The seas around the nation never fail to provide thrilling sporting action, with a best-ever finish to the Great Race and a record 1,005 lb marlin caught at the Tobago International Fishing Festival. T&T continued its fine tradition of medalling at the Dragon Boat World Championships, collecting bronze at the event held in July in Hungary. These medals are the result of the numerous regattas and the growth of the sport within secondary schools.
Sports
Photo: Abraham Diaz
Andrew Lewis kept the flag flying as his career continues its upward trajectory in the sailing world, with a brilliant 4th place at the Chinese leg of the Sailing World Cup, all part of his preparation for the World Championships that were to be held after we went to press. The incomparable and indefatigable George Bovell III kept up his medal haul, with bronze in the 50M Freestyle at the Worlds in Barcelona, while at last count he had accumulated 7 medals in the World Cup. While his legacy continues to grow, the future of T&T swimming took a big step forward with Dylan Carter’s silver at the Junior Worlds, in the 50M Butterfly. Njisane Phillip’s infectious personality and blistering speed saw him thrill local crowds at a 3-day international meet held in his name in April, with Olympic cyclists from all over the globe in attendance. He then went on to distinguish himself by winning the Festival of Speed in the US, before focusing on the World Championships early in 2014. On the road, Keiana Lester pointed at exciting times ahead by winning gold in the Caribbean Championships held in Aruba at the tender age of 16;
the evergreen Emile Abraham earned silver in the men’s race. October’s internationally recognised Tobago Classic, the premier road cycling race in the Caribbean, expanded its events to include mountain biking, as the island remains the perfect host for both disciplines of the sport. In the year following the Olympics, athletics’ premier event was its World Championships, and while the medal winners from London performed admirably, it was Jehue Gordon who took centre stage, with his last-gasp win in the 400M hurdles; it was the only one medal from Moscow, but it was the most precious colour of all. In a year when many sporting “firsts” were achieved, the national men’s hockey team added to the list. The stickmen brought home bronze medals from the Pan Am Cup held in Canada, the championship for the Western hemisphere. Their win over powerhouses the USA, was phenomenal for a sport that has less than a thousand participants, from an island with just over a million people. It aptly represents T&T’s sporting talent: small nation, big victories; expect the same in 2014.
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Photo: Abraham Diaz
Sports
The Great Race
Where man and machine try to tame the open sea By Sheldon Waithe
Along the Mucurapo foreshore, the silence of a fine Saturday dawn is broken by the bestial roar of mighty engines, in preparation for one of the most gruelling journeys embarked upon annually by man and machine. A year’s worth of preparation has been undertaken, mistakes have been learnt, and nerves give way to anticipation as to which of these sleek machines will tame Neptune’s rough waters and reach Tobago’s Scarborough shores first. If it’s late August, then it must be Carib Great Race time. In 2013 the summer staple event celebrated its 45th birthday in style, with all the favourites in contention right through to the finish. Total Monster, defending champ Fire One, and the ubiquitous Mr. Solo, all finished within two minutes of each other. In powerboat racing terms, this was a sprint, with Total Monster taking the spoils and denying Fire One the chance of equalling the legendary Ken Charles’ record of three victories in a row (Charles has a phenomenal 14 Great Race titles). A hundred and fifteen miles blitzed in an hour and twenty minutes, over the choppy waters of the open sea, gives a clear indication of the skill, durability, technique and experience required to hone the speed of these boats. Ten out of twentytwo starters did not finish in 2012, while in 2013, eleven of the twenty-eight boats that faced the starter failed to make it to Tobago. Proof indeed of exactly how arduous the Great Race is, where waves are known to get as high as nine feet. It’s a long way from the festivity and jovial atmosphere that bookends the race itself. The weekend before the race, the boats
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are paraded through Port of Spain and along the Western Main Road, allowing fans to get an intimate look at their favourites and perhaps change their minds before placing their bets. Owners and crew vie for the coveted “People’s Choice Award”, while Carib creates hype worthy of the event with a series of videos that profile the courageous competitors. All categories of boats are on display, from the 60 mph vessels that leave you wondering how they negotiate the course without being battered by the elements, to the 130 mph elite boats, with covered cockpits and 1350 horse power engines; the epitome of worldclass power boating. Competition weekend sees the torch of festivity passed to Tobago, maintaining the tradition of the Great Race party. A breakfast party, on a boat, of course, begins at 6:30 a.m., taking fans to the perfect vantage point of Scotland Bay, where the boats are in full cry before cornering towards the open water. On the beach, at the bars, and especially at the Scarborough finish line, fans feed off this energy-charged event. The sister isle comes alive for the weekend, with parties and limes beginning from the day before the race and ending more than twenty-four hours after its conclusion. It’s not only the boats that are a hardy breed.... As the old adage of all finishers being heroes rings true, the crews immerse themselves in well-deserved celebrations, allowing the rivalries to subside, but only for a moment, for the meticulous planning begins almost immediately for the 2014 edition.
Meet a Trini
Jehue Gordon
- worth his weight in gold By Sheldon Waithe
J
ehue Gordon had a score to settle in 2013. Even though the calmness that he exudes doesn’t suggest a vengeful bone in his body, here was a man touted internationally to medal at the 2012 London Olympics; a natural trajectory given his consistency through the ranks of Junior Carifta and the Pan Am Games, and then becoming Junior World Champion. Then, disaster struck, in the form of a quadriceps injury a month before the Games. Undeterred, Gordon gave the Olympics his best shot, knowing that at age 20, his time would surely come. Fast forward to 2013 and the world’s best athletes are again gathered at the World Championships in Moscow. As he eased into the Final, his form indicated that he was on course for a medal; the question was, which colour? Coming out of the final bend, he was level with Olympic silver medallist Mike Tinsley. Straining every sinew, Gordon dipped for the line, the naked eye unable to separate him from his American rival. Then the scoreboard confirmed it: gold for Trinidad & Tobago! His mission to get the very best out of his mind and body is echoed in his strong beliefs, his work ethic and his hunger. His willpower is evident as he says, “Don’t be afraid to fail, because it’s part of life; if channelled in the proper way, it can only make you stronger.” Mention of his achievements as both Junior and Senior World Champion forces a smile to break out. “I feel fulfilled, knowing that all the hard work I put in was worth it.” The natural outlook would be towards the upcoming Commonwealth and Pan Am Games, before Rio 2016, but Gordon has another priority. “I just want to go back home, settle myself and get ready for school.” Gordon is in his third year of a Sports Management degree course at the University of the West Indies,
and his pursuance of academia, in conjunction with his sports career, is another reason that he is a fine example to the youth. He uses his time in the spotlight to highlight the importance of education, and, what’s more, unlike most Caribbean athletes, Gordon is not a product of the U.S. College circuit; his training, like his education, is all done in Trinidad. He is very much the home-grown champion. He’s also a team player, seeking to help the younger athletes. “After the disappointment of the Olympics, this year I wanted to put the focus on my club mates, trying to have a little more fun, show them what Jehue can do and how I can help them develop themselves.” Gordon continues to bring international exposure for his country, not just from his sparkling performances on the track, but for his demeanour off of it. As part of its build-up to the 2012 Olympics, the BBC featured six athletes from across the globe; Jehue fit the bill. With the 2014 Commonwealth Games being held in Edinburgh, and a senior World title added to Gordon’s bow, the British broadcasting giant has again come knocking. He will be profiled in the months leading up to the “Friendly Games.” Rightfully, expectations are high. Gordon’s record points to an ability to become a consistent major championship performer like Ato Boldon, able to bring home medals over the next decade. But even if the public gets carried away, the athlete certainly has not: “I’m on the grind (with training); it doesn’t make sense coming off a world championship trying to close the gate at the last minute.” It is recognition that his last-gasp victory, while exciting, was too close for comfort. “I just want to give my heart to the red, white & black, and so every title there is on the world stage; I am going to go for it. I’m doing this for the love of my sport.”
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SPECIAL EVENTS
Special Events
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Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
Special Events in Trinidad and Tobago By Lisa Ghany, CSEP Founder and Director Xceptional Events Ltd.
Trinidad and Tobago’s relatively new events industry faces its challenges as it forges its own space as a contributor to the economic landscape. That said, T&T is never at a loss for somewhere to “lime”. Our annual events calendar is made up of special events that run the gamut from sporting events, religious festivals, party promotions and concerts, to charity events, pageants and a host of other community and private events. Although the industry is challenged by tight budgets and tight turnaround times, there is a cadre of professional service firms that possess the creative ingenuity, years of experience and relationships with talented vendors that help some events stand apart from the others. Trinidad has continued to play host to a number of major conferences throughout the year, and is well known in the region for its expertise in this area. The Hyatt Regency Hotel and Conference Centre, along with the Hilton Trinidad and Conference Centre, are the two establishments that cater to most of the government and corporate meeting planner’s needs in this area. 2013 saw the year opening with the very successful South Chamber’s Energy Conference, followed closely by the Trinidad and Tobago Manufacturing Association’s Trade and Investment Conference. In July, Government hosted the 34th CARICOM Conference and co-hosted the Caribbean Tourism Organization’s 14th Annual Caribbean Conference on Sustainable Tourism Development, in keeping with the CVB’s mandate to establish Trinidad and Tobago as the conference capital of the Caribbean. While business events continue to play an important part in Trinidad and Tobago’s business tourism offering, a wide range of social and cultural events add to the overall attraction of the islands, as it is an easy fit to pair your networking activities with the many side events that take place throughout the year. Starting with Carnival, known throughout the world for its energy, beautiful costumes, and masqueraders who welcome all to be part of the celebrations, on to breath-taking Tobago, where the Tobago Game Fishing Tournament and Tobago Jazz follow. For the sporting enthusiast, the Prime Minister’s Golf Tournament, the Tobago Cycling Classic and the Caribbean Premier League Cricket are also on the list. There are many fashion events and pageants, with the Miss Trinidad and Tobago Universe show being one of the most anticipated. The 2013 winner, Catherine Miller, represented Trinidad and Tobago in Moscow last year. 2013 has also seen the emergence of several popular health and wellness events for charity, such as the Scotia Bank Trinidad and Tobago Breast Cancer Walk, The Down Syndrome Family Network Buddy Walk, and the Kaliedodash, hosted by the Digicel Foundation, which were well organised and attended. For serious runners, the UWI half-marathon attracts international runners. The year ends with much festivity during the season of Christmas, when the sweet sounds of Parang can be enjoyed, along with sumptuous cuisine. Trinidad and Tobago: a land of special events with something for everyone.
Special Events
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The Trinidadian landscape has been shaped by our culture of food. Our diverse ethnic origins have created a true melting pot of flavours that make Trinidadian cuisine the award-winning best in the Caribbean. Your culinary adventure could begin with the Trini version of India – our unique blend of curries and spices in doubles, roti and phoulourie… all of which have evolved over the years to be widely accepted in the finest restaurants locally. Our Chinese cuisine has also become a staple on the local restaurant circuit. Options vary from fast food and takeout menus to family-style restaurants and fine dining selections. Traditional Chinese cooking methods meld with local seasonings and flavours to create an innovative twist. We can visit the Middle East for the gyros and kibbis, with their tantalizing garlic sauce blends, or on to Europe for fine Italian and Mediterranean cuisine samplings. Quality sushi bars have also become a staple on the local restaurant scene. The true Trini cuisine blends the delights from around the world to create distinct flavours in our pelau or Sunday staple – stewed chicken, macaroni pie and callaloo. Our restaurants range from the traditional outdoor food stand on the beach serving “bake and shark” to family-style restaurants and fine dining restaurants. Most restaurants open seven days a week for lunch and dinner; some serve elaborate Sunday brunches and cosy afternoon teas. They are all in a range of price points which make eating out in Trinidad very affordable. It is possible to spend a week in Trinidad and never have to eat in the same place twice! We dare you to try it!
By The Trinidad Hotels, Restaurants and Tourism Association (THRTA)
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ESTAURANTS Photo: Patricia Lewis
Restaurants
Pizza Hut
Waterfront Restaurant
Sample Menu Appetizers $35 Stuffed breadsticks: An exciting variation of our famous breadsticks, filled with cheese and pepperoni or ham. Pasta $85 Chicken and Mushroom Duxelle Alfredo: Creamy Alfredo sauce combined with duxelle Portobello mushrooms, sliced mushrooms, grilled chicken and rotini pasta, topped with parmesan and fresh basil. Pizza $105-$130 Chicken BBQ pizza: Savoury chunky barbecued chicken, green peppers, onions and mozzarella cheese atop a base of delicious barbecue sauce. Dessert $50 Chocolate lovers cake: Triple-layer chocolate served with one scoop of rich vanilla ice cream.
The world-famous Pizza Hut first opened its doors in Trinidad and Tobago in 1994; today, our seven convenient locations serve up not only hot, delicious and signature pizzas, but also pasta, salads, appetizers, desserts and more. Whether you join us to dine in, or want carry out or delivery, Pizza Hut is your destination for unbeatable and affordable Italian and American-inspired meals that cater to every taste. Share them with family and friends. Tel Roxy (Woodbrook) (868) 628-1488 Valsayn (868) 662-1488 Price Plaza (868) 672-1488 Gulf View (868) 653-1488 Trincity Mall (868) 640-1488 Arima (868) 664-1488 Gulf City Mall, Tobago (868) 660-1488 Facebook www.facebook.com/pizzahut-tt Web www.pizzahut-tt.com
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Sample Menu Lunch Waterfront “Signature” Salad Bar “Sustainable” Jerk Red Snapper stewed red beans / sautéed plantains Tamarind BBQ Glazed Chicken Roasted pumpkin / shallot and celery compote Dinner Lemon Infusion Salmon Tartare – mango wasabi vinaigrette / alfalfa sprouts / chili croutons Mixed Seafood with Roasted Garlic Sauce scallops / clams / mussels / herb butter crouton Banoffi Galette – Caramelized banana / condensed custard / dulce de leche ice-cream
Waterfront Restaurant invites you to enjoy local and international cuisine with contemporary flair. Featuring fresh seafood, mouth-watering steaks and a bounty of delicious tropical fare, Waterfront promises to take you on an amazing culinary excursion. Savor authentic flavours, magnificent presentations and gorgeous tropical décor as you dine indoors or outdoors, with amazing views of the Gulf of Paria. For a truly special dining experience, have a seat at our Chef’s Table and take in a front-row view of the action in our open kitchen. Tel (868) 821-6550 Address Hyatt Regency Trinidad 1 Wrightson Road, Port of Spain, Trinidad, WI Facebook www.facebook.com/ HyattRegencyTrinidad Web trinidad.hyatt.com 24 hour Grab and Go Deli/ Patisserie – Cinnamon
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
House of Jaipur Indian Lifestyle Boutique and Tearoom Sample Menu Kama Sutra Chai In the spirit of sensuousness and ancient Indian traditions, this recipe is based on a ancient blend of spices as old as the Kama Sutra text. Sabzi Masala Cutlets Spicy cutlets made with fresh vegetables, almonds and Indian cottage cheese pan fried into a crispy patty. Nan Khatai Spiced shortbread cookies flavoured with cardamom. Opening hours Boutique – Mon. to Sat., 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tearoom – Tue. to Sat., 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Welcome to the destination where culture echoes, tradition speaks, and beauty enthralls. House of Jaipur invites you to enjoy the vivid kaleidoscope of the orient and immerse yourself in the timeless mystery and beauty of India. Have a cup of chai in our quaint Indian tearoom and indulge in some of our delicious Indian appetisers and chutneys, made daily by our in-house chef. We invite you to be inspired. We invite you to cross the threshold of the Indian house and discover in it an extraordinary variety of style and décor. Log onto our website at www. houseofjaipur.com and discover the variety of teas we offer and our delightful selection of Indian savories and sweets. Reservations (868) 624-7465 Address 14 O’Connor Street, Woodbrook, Port of Spain, Trinidad Email hojp@tstt.net.tt Web www.houseofjaipur.com Takeaway Available
Restaurants
Sample Menu Appetizers Buffalo Wings, Sesame Jack™Chicken Strips Jack Daniel’s® – New York Steak & Shrimp, Half-Rack Ribs & Shrimp Mains – Bbq Roasted Chicken, Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp Salads – Shanghai Chicken Salad, Cajun-Fried Chicken Salad Pasta – Cajun Shrimp & Chicken Pasta, Blackened Chicken Alfredo Burgers – Jack Daniel’s® Burger, Cheesy Bacon Cheese Burger Dessert – Double Chocolate Fudgy Brownie, Oreo® Madness
Flavours Restaurant
Lime Inn
Sample Menu
Starters Creamy Crab Soup – Gazpacho with parmesan cheese & “gambas marrakech” Cucumber Soup with chili-glazed scallops Acajou chicken salad Tuna Fish Salad with walnuts, Gorgonzola & roasted beetroot
Appetizers Regent Star’s Pumpkin & Seafood Delight Thai Style Mussels – Mussels steamed in coconut broth with lemongrass and ginger Mains Regent’s Rack of Lamb – Pan-seared & ovenbaked, served on a potato cake with vegetable tian & a red wine reduction Black Pepper Crusted Beef Tenderloin – Drizzled with a brandy-infused peppercorn sauce, served with twice-baked potatoes and steamed broccoli Lobster in Thai Chilli Sauce – Served with a spiced Vietnamese dip, herbed basmati rice and vegetable tian Flavours Salmon – Served with Garlic & Dill Cream on Creamy Potatoes and Vegetable Medley
In 1965, Fridays™ opened its first location in New York City. Over the years, TGI Fridays has developed a rich food and beverage heritage which includes popularising Happy Hour and creating the Long Island Iced Tea and Loaded Potato Skins. The heart of each TGI Fridays™ is the bar, a stage where that “Friday Feeling” begins and infectious energy is created by the world’s greatest bartenders serving up innovative drinks. Whether for lunch, dinner or late night dining, we always provide an environment that frees our guests to let go of restraints and be themselves. That way they leave our restaurants feeling far better than they did when they first walked through our doors.
Captivate your palate as a mélange of flavours infused with rich historical cultures transcend from the four corners of the world at our Flavours Restaurant. Allow yourself to indulge in an array of the finest Scotch whiskies, exquisite cocktails, or even try some of our local rums and beers at The Rocks Lounge Bar. Open daily from 6:00 a.m. – 11:00 p.m.
Tel (868) 624-TGIF (8443) Address bpTT Building, POS Tel (868) 673-TGIF (8443) Address Price Plaza, Chagaunas Tel (868) 653-TGIF (8443) Address Gulf City, San Fernando
Tel (868) 669-STAR (7827) Fax (868) 669-7000 Address Regent Star Hotel 118-119 BWIA Boulevard, Piarco, Trinidad Email info@regentstarhotel.com Web www.regentstarhotel.com
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Sample Menu
Mains Pesto Linguine & Grilled Eggplant topped with parmesan cheese Caribbean Rub Chicken with pineapple and papaya salsa (picture) Grilled Red Snapper with lemongrass, grapefruit salsa, pack choi & basmati rice. Duck Breast with anjomole, pumpkin creme & roast root vegetables BBQ Pork Loin with roast vegetables, long beans & cauliflower creme Desserts Nut and Chocolate Tart with grapefruit sorbet. Grilled Pineapple with Rum Sabayon & Coconut Ice Cream
Reflecting our own mix of Sweden and Trinidad, our menu is a lovingly created marriage between local and continental influences. Come and relax in a setting that will completely take your breath away. Tel (868) 670-3771 Fax (868) 670-4566 Address Acajou Hotel, Grande Riviere, Trinidad Email info@acajoutrinidad.com Web www.acajoutrinidad.com Available for Functions, Lunch, Dinner
Restaurants
Tiki Village
KAVA
TOWN
Sample Menu
Sample Menu
Restaurant & Bar
Our Special Polynesian Delight A combination of five delectable hors d’oeuvres. A Tiki favourite — Perfect for sharing!
KAVA Pizza – Our own signature pizza! Tomato sauce, mozzarella, goat cheese, caramelized onions, with toasted walnuts or capers.
Mongolian Beef – Tender beef, sautéed in a hot, spicy hoisin sauce, served over a thin layer of crispy vermicelli.
Atlantic Salmon – Teriyaki and mango-glazed Atlantic salmon, pan seared with pommes anna and julienne vegetables.
Jing Shek Ban – Steamed boneless filet of fish with ginger and chive in a soya sauce.
Grilled Squid Salad – Mixed greens topped with feta cheese & grilled squid with a citrus dressing.
Walnut Shrimp – Shrimp deep fried and tossed with toasted walnuts in an exotic sauce. Tiki Pork – Tender slices of seasoned pork sautéed with onions, sweet peppers, in a spicy hoisin sauce.
KAVA’s Bushwhacker – Vodka, Baileys, Kahlua, Coconut Rum, Coconut Cream, Amaretto, Grand Marnier and Vanilla Ice Cream.
Tiki Village is a unique Asian-Polynesian Restaurant offering a stunning view of the Queen’s Park Savannah, Port of Spain, and the Gulf of Paria. Explore our famous Dim Sum menu on Sundays and taste our delicately hand-crafted Asian delights. Or join us for our sumptuous a-la-carte lunches and dinners. Honey-toned wooden pillars and copper masks, locally crafted by our artisans, create a warm ambiance and an elegant background. Perfect for a romantic evening, business meeting or a family outing.
KAVA’s eclectic menu features artisan brick oven pizzas, salads, gourmet burgers, pastas, steaks and more. It displays a wide selection of wines, and offers a variety of internationally renowned beers. Its convenient location, along with the crisp and inviting décor, makes it an excellent meeting spot! Enjoy your choice of indoor café styled seating or relax on our outdoor terrace, both providing the perfect setting for casual dining. Whether it’s for a quick bite for lunch, graband-go or a leisurely espresso with tempting desserts, KAVA is the obvious choice.
Reservations (868) 622-KPOK (5765) Address Kapok Hotel, 8th Floor 16-18 Cotton Hill, St. Clair, Maraval Email stay@kapokhotel.com Facebook facebook.com/kapokhoteltrinidad Web www.kapokhotel.com Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Takeaway, Available for functions
Reservations (868) 622-KAVA (5282) Address Kapok Hotel, Lobby Level 16-18 Cotton Hill, St. Clair, Trinidad Facebook facebook.com/kapokhoteltrinidad Email kava@kapokhotel.com Web www.kapokhotel.com Lunch, Dinner, Takeaway, Available for functions
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Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
Sample Menu Grill & Specialties Rack of Lamb Grilled half rack, rosemary & mint Sea Bass Dijon cream, Amaretto Steamed Mussels Sautéed with white wine & garlic. Served with garlic bread Chinese Kitchen Honey Garlic Shrimp Shrimp wok tossed with honey & savoury garlic Sizzling Beef Seared beef sautéed with onions & presented on a sizzling skillet Hong Kong Roast Pork Roast pork tossed in a fiery, spicy blend of chilli, garlic, peppers & onions Pepper Calamari Fried crisp & tossed with spicy red peppers
With an extensive menu, Town allows you to enjoy a variety of cuisines, including classic grill items as well as traditional Chinese dishes, all in the same contemporary setting. Our indoor and outdoor bar and lounge areas make for a prefect after-work gathering. Whether it’s an intimate affair or grand celebration, Town is the place you’ll want to be. For reservations/take-out/ delivery (868) 627-TOWN Address #51 Cipriani Boulevard, Port of Spain Email admin@towntrinidad.com
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Restaurants
Texas de Brazil Sample Menu Seasonal Salad Area Aged French Cheeses, Smoked Salmon, Marinated Portobello, Lobster Bisque, Brazilian Pasta Salad, Sushi, Brazilian Black Beans with Pork, Sweet & Sour Fish Various Cuts of Beef, Lamb, Pork, Chicken and Brazilian Sausage Brazilian Picanha, Rack of Lamb, Chicken wrapped in Bacon, Filet Mignon, Parmesan-Crusted Pork, Hearty Flank Steak, Filet Mignon wrapped in Bacon Brazilian Cocktail: Caipiriniha Our signature cocktail with fresh fruit and sugar muddled and served shaken.
J-ZZ’S International Steak House
McDonald’s™ Restaurants
Sample Menu
Big Mac™ Quarter Pounder with Cheese Chicken McNuggets™ Premium Chicken Sandwiches McCrispy™ Chicken Caesar Salad Happy Meal
Appetizers/Starters Shrimp Cocktail, Crab Back, Chicken Quesadilla, Bacon Cheddar Fries, Jalapeño Poppers, Onion Rings, Mozarella Sticks, J-ZZ’S Golden or Sauteed Calamari Rings. Seafood King Crab Legs/Snow Crab Catch of the Day, Pink Salmon, Lobster Thermidor (Grilled/Broiled), Surf ’n Turf. Steaks Fillet Mignon, Rib Eye, New York Strip, T-Bone Porterhouse, Beef Short Rib, Beef & Pork Ribs. Baby Back Ribs, Lamb, Pork
Texas de Brazil is an authentic BrazillianAmerican churrascaria (steak house) offering you an interactive dining experience unlike anything else in Trinidad and Tobago! Treat yourself to our 50 to 60 seasonal salad area and traditional side items. When you are ready for meat, turn your card to green and prepare to be swarmed by a troop of carvers generously serving various cuts of meat until you can say, “No mas!” An extensive wine list, freshly made signature cocktails, and many decadent desserts are available to complete your dining experience. Hours of Operation: Lunch from Thur. – Sun. 11:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. Dinner nightly from 5:00 pm – 10:30 pm
Enjoy sizzling steaks @ our international family lounge or Lime & Dine at our world class bars. Located in the industrial town of Couva, one minute’s drive from Point Lisas, in central Trinidad. With the widest range of cocktails you could ever imagine, J-ZZ’S has 3 bars, with a separate smoke-deck bar, plus a conference room with its own bar and full business and training facilities. J-ZZ’S has got over 20 screens for your comfort, and caters for private parties and functions as well. Entire ground floor furnished with open Wi-Fi facility.
Tel (868) 623-0022 Address Level 2 Fiesta Plaza, Movie Towne Invaders Bay, Audrey Jeffers Highway Port of Spain Fixed pricing (All you can eat) Available for Functions
Reservations (868) 636-5997 (JZZS)/302-1000 Address Corner Gibbs Street and Southern Main Road, Couva Web www.J-zzs.com Special Catering and Local Cuisine
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Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
Sample Menu
McCafé™ Mocha Frappé, Caramel Frappé, Espresso, Latte, Cappuccino, etc.
Arcos Dorados has successfully opened and operates four McDonald’s Restaurants in Trinidad and Tobago. The free-standing restaurants at Grand Bazaar, Cipriani and Gulf View boast a number of features unveiled for the first time in Trinidad. The introduction of an Auto-Mac drive-thru service, an air-conditioned Playplace for kids and free Wi-Fi for all customers at McCafé. Tel (868) 387-0937 Grand Bazaar, Valsayn Tel (868) 290-3264 Dumfries Road, Gulf View Tel (868) 387-0935 The Falls at Westmall, Westmoorings Tel (868) 387-0936 Cipriani Boulevard, Newtown Facebook McDonald’s TT Twitter @McDonalds_TT
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Restaurants
Burger King
Subway
Zanzibar
Sample Menu
Sample Menu
Sample Menu
Breakfast Croissan’wich with Ham or Bacon Pancakes French Toast Eggs Bacon Hash Browns
Breads Italian White, Wheat, Parmesan Oregano, Roasted Garlic and Honey Oat.
Roasted Garlic Seafood Diablo A seafood medley of mussels, calamari, scallops and shrimp sautéed in a spicy tomato cream diablo sauce and served with rice and fried plantain.
Popular Sandwiches Teriyaki Chicken, Meatballs, Tuna, BBQ Steak & Cheese, BBQ Pork, BBQ Chicken, Veggie Max, Seafood & Crab, Seafood & Lobster, Shrimp, Subway Melt.
Lunch Whopper Stacker Veggie Burger BK Fish Original Chicken Sandwich Salads
Burger King – “Home of the Whopper” – is known for its flame-broiled beef burgers. Celebrate fast food diversity with Burger King as it boasts of variety to satisfy your palete from fish to steak, chicken and ham products. We are conveniently located at St. James, MovieTowne Invaders Bay, Maraval, West Mall, Grand Bazaar, Trincity Mall, Curepe, Tunapuna, Chaguanas, Price Plaza, Gulf City, High Street, San Fernando, Princes Town and Gasparillo.
Tel (868) 663-4159 Fax (868) 645-1058 Address Restaurant Holdings Limited Restaurant Support Centre 14 Frederick Settlement, Caroni Email rsc@ttrhl.com Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
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Branches: • Diego Martin • St. James • Long Circular Mall • Five locations in downtown Port of Spain • Barataria • MovieTowne • Ariapita Ave., Woodbrook • Maraval • Curepe • San Juan • UWI Campus • Valpark Shopping Plaza • Valsayn • Arima • Trincity Mall • Price Plaza • Gulf City Mall & Car Park • Couva, Southern Main Road • San Fernando • Point Lisas • Debe • Pointe a Pierre • Princes Town • Sangre Grande • Point Fortin • La Romaine • Tunapuna • Glencoe • Montrose • Mount Hope • Piarco International Airport • Mayaro • Siparia • Penal • Three locations in Tobago Scarborough, Lowlands Mall, Orangehill.
Tel (868) 662-5716, 645-8158, 663-9567, 662-6848, 662-0092 Head Office Fax (868) 662-3250 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
Welcome to Zanzibar and Zanzibar by the Sea — a truly different dining and entertainment experience. Zanzibar offers memorable dining and “liming” in a unique environment; an inimitable blend of Trinidadian and international styles. Experience fine dining in a casual atmosphere. Choose from our broad menu featuring international dishes prepared by our celebrated chefs. So put Zanzibar on your “to do” list during your visit to Trinidad and Tobago.
Tel (868) 627-0752 Fax (868) 627-0713 Address Shop # 54 Fiesta Plaza, Invaders Bay, MovieTowne Tel (868) 634-3346 Zanzibar by the Sea Address Peake Yacht Services, Western Main Road, Chaguaramas Tel (868) 628-5970 Head Office Zanzibar Movietowne: Lunch, Dinner Zanzibar By The Sea: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
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Restaurants
Hollywood Grill
Ruby Tuesday Sample Menu
Sample Menu
Lobster Tails Broiled to perfection and served with fresh steamed broccoli and rice pilaf.
Premieres Crab Wontons
Chicken Fresco A grilled chicken breast topped with seasonal vine-ripened tomatoes, lemon-butter sauce and a splash of balsamic vinaigrette. Served with fresh steamed broccoli and mashed potatoes.
The Main Event BBQ Pork Ribs Dessert Five High Chocolate Cake
Premium Handcrafted Cocktails Mango Mojito & Strawberry Margarita
From our bountiful Fresh Garden bar and fork-tender ribs to the best premium handcrafted burgers, Ruby Tuesday makes every effort to ensure you get the best casual dining experience. You can expect the same friendly atmosphere and great service at any of our three locations: MovieTowne, Port of Spain; the City of Grand Bazaar; and Price Plaza in Chaguanas. Ruby Tuesday – More Choices, More Taste, More Fun! Tel (868) 624-6566 Fax (868) 624-0001 Address MovieTowne Complex, Port of Spain Tel (868) 663-6566 Fax (868) 663-7875 Address Grand Bazaar, Churchill Roosevelt Hwy Tel (868) 665-5369 Fax (868) 665-3742 Address Price Plaza, Chaguanas Email dachin@rubytuesdaytrinidad.com Hours Sunday to Thursday, 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. Friday and Saturday 11:00 a.m. to 1:00 a.m. Lunch, Dinner
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Hollywood Grill invites you to try our wide variety of mouth-watering selections to tease your taste buds. Featuring hearty, scene-stealing dishes inspired by Hollywood blockbusters – our succulent, fall-off-thebone ribs always capture the spotlight. Our Vegas lounge-style bar serves up epic cocktails that are equally impressive. So visit us the next time you’re in Price Plaza – we’re right next to MovieTowne in Chaguanas. You’re sure to find Hollywood Grill a Hit! *We offer Curbside Pick-up ToGo!
Tel (868) 665-4965 Curbside Pick-up (868) 671-2EAT (2328) Address Store A, #11-12 Price Plaza, Endeavour, Chaguanas Next to MovieTowne Lunch, Dinner
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
Kaizan Sushi Sample Menu Kaizan Sushi “Hella Hot Roll” Fresh salmon, king fish, wasabi mayo, spicy sauce, cucumber, avocado and chopped jalapenos rolled in a soya bean wrapper, topped with spicy tuna, unagi sauce, mango sauce, tobiko and spring onions. Bay Scallops Broiled scallops topped with Tobiko sitting on top of a delicious crab meat and avocado mix.
Welcome to Kaizan Sushi, a truly different kind of dining and entertainment experience. Located at Fiesta Plaza, MovieTowne Complex, Kaizan Sushi offers memorable dining in a unique setting. So put Kaizan Sushi on your to-do list during your visit to Trinidad & Tobago.
Tel (868) 623-5437, 623-5370 Address Shop #7, Fiesta Plaza, Invaders Bay, MovieTowne Tel (868) 628-5970 Head Office Lunch, Dinner
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Restaurants
Angelo’s Italian Restaurant Sample Menu Pasta Linguine Frutti di Mare – Linguine pasta tossed with lobster, clams, squid, shrimp and mussles in a sauce made of plum tomatoes, garlic & basil. Seafood Salmone alla Messinese – Atlantic pink salmon resting on a layer of sautéed spinach, dressed with a sauce made of cream, capers & truffle oil. Steak Filetto alla Toscana – Prime fillet steak in a cream brandy sauce with mushrooms, tomatoes and tarragon.
The Verandah Sample Menu Callaloo Soup with Coo Coo $32
Sample Menu
Fillet of Mahi Mahi Poached in a rich tomato creole sauce, topped with sweet peppers, onions and capers. $98
Chef Ju’s Recommendation Ga Ga’s Crab Dip – crab, cream cheese, spices, parmesan, mixed bread Japanese Ceviche – raw fish, citrus, seasoning, spices Ju Ju Roll – salmon, tuna, torched scallop, tobiko, sesame oil, unagi sauce, curry mayo Dickiemoto – soft shell crab, cream cheese, cucumber, crab salad, tobiko, seaweed powder
Fruity bread pudding with rum custard sauce. $40 Or A watermelon, tomato and black olive salad with toasted almonds and feta cheese, dressed with a balsamic vinaigrette. $34 Coconut-crusted shrimp with our house mango chutney. $135 Creamy homemade barbadine ice cream $25 Call us for our full menu.
Calabrian-born Chef Angelo Cofone brings to Trinidad the authentic southern flavors of Italy. With over twenty years of experience working both in Italy and London, he has brought his magical culture to this island, putting Trinidad a cut above the rest. Diners are mesmerised by his mouth-watering cuisine and the charm and warmth that he generates. Together with his highly trained staff, wife and two of his three sons, they have produced a restaurant that offers the finest in dining. Reservations necessary. Open Monday to Friday. Lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Dinner from 6:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Saturdays - Dinner from 6:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Set in an old-fashioned St. Clair residence, the Verandah offers dining either indoors (air conditioned), on our breezy verandah, or in a picturesque courtyard. The menu changes daily, offering a blend of international dishes with a very strong Caribbean influence, often described as “freestyle Caribbean Cuisine”. The Verandah is open for lunch Monday to Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and for dinner on Thursday and Saturday from 7:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. We offer afternoon tea every second Wednesday of the month from 4:00 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. We also cater for private parties, functions and office meetings.
Tel (868) 628-5551 / 628-7854 Fax (868) 622-9562 Address 38 Ariapita Avenue, Woodbrook Email angelos@flowtrinidad.com Lunch, Dinner
Tel (868) 622-6287 Address 10 Rust Street, St. Clair Email verandah.food@gmail.com Lunch, Dinner, Afternoon Tea
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More Vino / More Sushi
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
More Vino was established in 2005 as a premium wine retailer and quickly became the ultimate “liming” spot for sipping on fine wine. Fast forward to 2014 and you have Trinidad’s premier wine bistro, More Vino, coupled with the country’s most authentic sushi bar, More Sushi, for an eclectic fusion of Japanese and European cuisine with a friendly, local vibe. Choose from a wide variety of international wines, gourmet food, premium spirits, beers, cigars and hookahs, and enjoy the unique ambience that is More Vino | More Sushi. Tel (868) 622-VINO (8466) Fax (868) 622-2710 Port of Spain: 23 O’ Connor St., Woodbrook Tel (868) 223-VINO (8466) San Fernando: 33 Scott St., San Fernando Email sales@morevino.com Web www.morevino.com Facebook facebook.com/morevino Twitter twitter.com/morevinosushi Open from Mon. to Sat. at 11:00 a.m. Lunch, Dinner, Takeaway
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Restaurants
Cold Stone Creamery
Soong’s Great Wall
Restaurant & Bar
Sample Menu
Sample Menu
Sample Menu
Pick Your Passion Cold Stone Signature Creations, Cold Stone Shakes & Smoothies, Cold Stone Signature Cakes (Cakes must be ordered 3 days in advance) Cold Stone After Dark Creations Indulge in the decadent blend of Cold Stone infused with the sophisticated essence of Patron XO Cafe, Bacardi DragonBerry & Skyy Infusion Passion Fruit. Available only at Cold Stone Creamery Movie Towne, Invaders Bay and Movie Towne, Price Plaza. Must be over 18. Served from 8:00 p.m. every day.
Phoenix Basket A combination of assorted seafood, meats and mixed vegetables presented in an edible basket.
Appetizer Pepper Salt Calamari – Succulent morsels of calamari fried to perfection and tossed with garlic, ginger, onions, scallions and fresh Calcutta chillies. Main Course Konjee Crispy Chicken – Moist slices of chicken breast crispy fried, heated with our special Calcutta red chili paste and tossed with onions and scallions in a sweet and spicy Konjee sauce.
From unique ice cream creations to smoothies, cakes and shakes, nobody serves up the ultimate indulgence like Cold Stone. We are proud of our heritage as Ice Cream Innovators, continuously redefining plain old regular ice cream into something truly extraordinary. Every ice cream we serve is a “Creation”. We’re so proud of our redefinition of ice cream that we’re almost inclined to do away with the words “ice cream” altogether. Why not just call it Cold Stone? Tel (868) 624-1513 Address Movie Towne, Invaders Bay Tel (868) 640-5138 Address Trincity Mall Tel (868) 671-1513 Address Movie Towne, Price Plaza, Chaguanas Email coldstone@coldstonecreamery.co.tt Twitter and Instagram @coldstonett Facebook Cold Stone Creamery Trinidad Web www.coldstonecreamery.co.tt
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Sizzling Tenderloin Beef Beef tenderloin slices stir-fried in black bean sauce and served on a sizzling hot platter. Sesame Shrimp – Golden battered shrimp smothered in a delectable cream sauce and sprinkled with lightly toasted sesame seeds. Lobster Cantonese – Chunks of the finest lobster, delicately cooked with a cream & butter sauce.
HAKKA
Dasheen Pork – Slices of pork & dasheen, layered and steamed in a special sauce.
The Great Wall of China is the world’s longest wall built entirely by hand, making it a remarkable engineering feat. Today, Soong’s Great Wall prides itself on that same personal attention that builds longlasting relationships, making us a worldclass restaurant. Relax and be pampered by our highly trained staff, personally instructed in the art of making you feel welcome. Our famous Wednesday Night Buffet offers succulent lobster, among many other delectable dishes. Don’t miss our Sunday Lunch Buffet. Reservations: (868) 652-Wall (9255) / 657-5050 / 652-2583 Fax (868) 653-3834 Address 97 Circular Rd., San Fernando Email soongsgreatwall@gmail.com Private upper level for special functions & seminars
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
Hakka cuisine is an elegant fusion of Chinese recipes with distinct Indian spices and flavours. Over 100 years ago, the original recipes traveled from Mei Zhou, China to India with the Hakka Chinese people, who eventually settled in Calcutta. Over several generations, the marriage of oriental techniques and Indian ingredients evolved into a gastronomic explosion for the taste buds. Our chefs have traveled from the top Hakka restaurants in Calcutta to meticulously prepare dishes that define the sights, tastes and aromas of the HAKKA experience. Dining or Takeaway 11:00 a.m. – 11:00 p.m. Mon. – Thur. 11:00 a.m. – 12 midnight Fri. and Sat. 12 noon – 10:00 p.m. Sunday Tel (868) 622-0004 Address 4 Taylor Street, Woodbrook, P.O.S Email info@hakkarestaurant.com Facebook Hakka-Restaurant-Bar Web www.hakkarestaurant.com Lunch, Dinner, Parking Available
Restaurants
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Restaurants
Tamnak Thai
Apsara
Sample Menu
Sample Menu
Appetizer Chicken Satay – Strips of grilled marinated chicken served with a cucumber & peanut sauce.
Appetizer Machi Tikka – Fresh boneless fish cubed & marinated in lime juice, yogurt & Indian spices, roasted in the tandoor.
Main Course Tom Yam Kung – Spicy & sour prawn soup: Thai’s famous spicy soup, prepared in a shrimp bouillon. Refined and powerful. Neur Kra-Ta-Ron – Sautéed beef on hot plate, with mushroom, spring onion, red & green peppers, carrots & onions. Dessert Mango Passion Fruit Cheesecake – Layers of creamy smooth passion fruit and mango-infused buttermilk cheesecake, topped with tart passion fruit curd.
Main Course Tandoori Zinga – Jumbo shrimp marinated in yogurt, fresh lime juice & Indian spices. Lightly cooked in the Tandoor. Paneer Tikka Masala – (Vegetarian Dish) Paneer tikka cooked with fresh green chillies, ginger, garlic and tomatoes. Hot & satisfying! Dessert Rasmalai – Homemade Paneer (cottage cheese) served in sweetened milk, garnished with pistachios.
Asian Cuisine Catering Services Sample Menu Beef – Angus Striploin beef marinated in red wine simmered with black peppercorns Fish – Braised Fish fillet in coconut milk and kaffir lime leaves Chicken – Chicken stuffed with fresh crabmeat, simmered in a champagne seafood reduction. Lamb – Asian spice-rubbed rack of lamb, wrapped in basil leaves. Scallops – Saffron seared king scallops served on a bed of condensed callaloo topped with fresh blue crab meat. Pork – Masala Medallion of pork tenderloin slowly roasted to perfection Finger Foods – We provide a variety of over 200 finger food items.
Tamnak Thai is set in a lush tropical garden, and offers the best cuisine that the Royal Kingdom of Thailand has to offer. Chefs Charoon and Raj preside over the kitchen, preparing dishes like the popular Tom Yum Gung (hot & sour shrimp soup), Gaeng Kaew-wan Gai (green curry chicken) and Chef’s special Pad Thai. An attractively priced luncheon special is available daily, with an interesting and extensive variety of wines. Open for lunch and dinner Mondays to Fridays; open on Saturdays and Sundays for dinner only from 6:00 p.m. We offer private rooms for hosting groups of 30, 60 or 250 people; we also cater external functions. Tel (868) 625-0647, 625-9715, 625-6061, 621-0459 Fax (868) 625-6061 Address Level 2, #13 Queen’s Park Savannah East, Port of Spain Email reservations@tamnakthaitt.com Web www.tamnakthaitt.com Sunday Brunch, Bar, Takeaway
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Apsara is the only authentic Indian restaurant in Trinidad and Tobago. Chefs Ramsingh and Sahab ensure that diners experience the very best cuisine their homeland has to offer, from tantalising tandooris to worldfamous Lamb Rogan Josh. Specialising in mainly northern Indian cuisine, Apsara has an extensive menu suitable for vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike. The wine list offers an extensive and interesting selection. Open for lunch and dinner Mondays to Saturdays. Also open for lunch on Sundays. Reservations are recommended. We cater in-house functions as well as offsite. Private rooms are available for 10 to 30 people. Tel (868) 623-7659, 627-7364, 625-6061, 621-0459 Fax (868) 625-6061 Address Level 1, #13 Queen’s Park Savannah East, Port of Spain Email reservations@apsaratt.com Web www.apsaratt.com Sunday Brunch, Bar, Takeaway
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
Asian Cuisine Catering Services, in association with Apsara Tamnak-Thai Restaurant, offers you the opportunity to make your event a memorable experience. We custom design menus to suit your budget. We also offer a wide range of finger foods – well over 200 items. Our versatile team of chefs can prepare authentic Indian, Thai, Chinese and Creole, including dishes from various countries. Our in-house facility can cater for approximately 250 seated on our rooftop, but can cater for any number at your venue. Tel (868) 625-0647, 625-9715 Address #13 Queen’s Park East, Port of Spain Email Accounts – accounts@asiancuisinett.com Purchasing – purchasing@asiancuisinett.com Catering for all occasions
Restaurants
Aioli Sample Menu Sample Lunch Menu Spinachi Salad, Aioli Club Sandwich and Aioli Truffle Nutella Crème Brûlée Sample Dinner Menu Shrimp Panzanella, Organic Salad, Truffle Lobster Pasta, Napoleon Signature Menu Items include Jamon Iberico, Tuscan Fries, Risotto Funghi and Seared Beef Steak on Gorgonzola Polenta with Arugula Salad
Hilltop Restaurant
Mélange Restaurant
Sample Menu
Sample Menu
Mango Shrimp Pops Skewered prawns marinated in a white wine and ripe mango puree, pan seared and served with a spicy mango sauce
Passion fruit-glazed Atlantic Pink Salmon – TT$165.00 Poached pink salmon fillet complemented by Dijonnaise Sauce.
Cream of Aubergine Soup Fresh aubergine simmered in vegetable broth, finished with basil cream, served with herbed rolls
Baby Back Ribs – TT$175.00 “Fall off the bone” baby back ribs finished with barbeque guava glaze.
Roasted Lamb Pesto Lamb loin marinated in fresh herbs, pan seared and delicately finished in the oven, served on a nest of pasta with red bell peppers and pesto Basil Banana Cream Pie Served with homemade caramel sauce
Chargrilled Ribeye Steak – TT$255.00 Eight-ounce Ribeye chargrilled to your specifications and complemented by red onion confit.
Students’ Signature Cocktail Zane’s Mango Berry Mango and strawberry puree, whipping cream, strawberry syrup and coconut cream
With the unique combination of fresh ingredients, blended with the culinary flavours of France, Italy and the Amalfi Coast, Aioli has taken Trinidad and Tobago cuisine to new and exciting heights. Executive Chef, John Aboud and his team conjure up gastronomic delights for both lunch and dinner guests. With a menu replete with innovative twists on classic food, Chef Aboud takes you on a sensory adventure. Signature cocktails and an impressive selection of wines, coupled with exceptional attention to guests, make Aioli an experience one will not soon forget.
Reservations (868) 222-4654; 222-3291; 628-3972 Address Ellerslie Plaza, Maraval
Hilltop Restaurant is TTHTI’s practical training space, which offers customers a memorable dining experience that should not be missed. The meals, executed and presented by our very own Culinary and Food and Beverage students, feature an exciting fusion of indigenous Caribbean herbs and spices, blended with the finest international ingredients. You may even complement your meal with one of our Students’ Signature drinks. Reservations (868) 634-2144 Ext 0/288 Address Cor. Airways Rd. & Hilltop Lane, Chaguaramas Email info@tthti.edu.tt
Linguini Diablo – TT$155.00 Grilled marinated chicken breast served on a bed of linguine tossed in mild marinara sauce with fresh basil and portobello mushrooms.
Mélange is an elegant 60-seater restaurant where guests enjoy a selection of international favourites fused with Caribbean bursts of flavours. The spirit of the restaurant is reflected in presentations that are unmatched, service that is friendly and indulgent, and a contemporary ambience that is both relaxed and romantic. A casual dining menu is also available. Renowned for seafood, roast rack of lamb and the besttasting steaks on the island. Open for lunch daily from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and for dinner from 6:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. All major credit cards are accepted. Reservations (868) 628-8687 Address 40 Ariapita Avenue and Cornelio Street, Woodbrook Email info@melangetrinidad.com Available for Functions, Takeaway, Lunch, Dinner
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Restaurants
Adam’s Bagels & Specialty Breads
Maria’s Bakery
Sample Menu Spinach and Green Apple Salad with caramelized walnuts and orange vinaigrette dressing Thai Chicken Wrap Chicken breast sautéed in oriental peanut dressing, wrapped in a tortilla with lettuce, julienned carrots and crunchy noodles Friday Special Tomato, melongene, pumpkin, bhagi chokas with whole wheat sada roti
… baking some love
Nichossa Restaurant
Sample Menu
Sample Menu
Soup of the day Pizza With your choice of any two toppings Coronation Salad Mayonnaise-smothered chicken with curry spices and raisins, atop a garden salad of fresh spinach, sweet peppers, tomatoes, carrots, cranberries, nuts and cheese.
Breakfast Mexican Omelette, Belgian Waffle, Croissant Special Café Meals Stuffed Chicken Breast, 6 oz Tenderloin Steak, Blackened Shrimp Italian Vegetable Lasagna, Chicken & Shrimp Fettuccine Alfredo Salads Sesame Chicken Salad, Tex Mex Steak Salad Paninis Grilled Chicken & Bacon, Portobello Mushroom Wraps Maracas Shark, Tandoori Chicken Burgers Beef, Turkey, Salmon or Vegetarian Sweet Things Opera Cake, French Macaroons, Date Squares Savoury Bites Beef Pies, Cheese Puffs, Chicken Quiche
Saturday Special Fried bake and black pudding or buljol and saltfish accra For breakfast sandwiches there are also omelettes, assorted hot and cold drinks, a tempting selection of pastries made in-house, and a kids’ menu.
Adam’s is a family-owned and -operated Bakery, Restaurant, Gourmet Shop located in the heart of Maraval, believing in fresh ingredients, quality products and friendly, personalized customer service. Adam has developed many long-lasting relationships with his customers over the past 20 years. This has earned him “Best Bakery & Coffee Shop” in Trinidad and Tobago by T&T Table Talk Awards. The Adam’s experience is like no other; visit us the next time you are in the area. Tel (868) 622-2435 Address 15A Saddle Rd., Maraval, Port-of-Spain Email adam@adamsbagels.com Web www.adamsbagels.com Breakfast, Lunch, Tea
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Maria’s bakery offers its customers a wide variety of delicious food to indulge in. What started off as a mother’s love for baking has become a hot spot for business-men and -women to meet and work, students to sit and study, and for the everyday person to enjoy delicacies, from mouth-watering muffins and pastries to pizzas. There’s a wide range of specialty breads, fresh out of the oven daily. Come and enjoy breakfast, lunch, or a cup of coffee, or just pop in for a snack — you’re certain to tantalize your taste buds!
Tel (868) 223-5050 Address #4 Pole Carew Street, Woodbrook Port of Spain, Trinidad Email maria4bread@gmail.com Facebook Maria’s Bakery Twitter mariasbakeryTT Instagram Mariabakery Monday – Friday 7:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m. Saturday 8:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m.
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
This café-styled restaurant and specialty bakery offers diners a comfortable yet classy dining experience. The kitchen offers American-styled breakfasts with unique teas & coffees, followed by a wide selection of light to full meals for lunch and dinner. The bakery produces a large variety of sweet and savoury items, ranging from local classics such as coconut drops and beef pies to truly decadent treats like white chocolate almond torte and red velvet cheesecake. Open Monday – Saturday 7:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m., this restaurant is definitely worth a visit. Tel (868) 652-8912 Address Rainbow Plaza, Gulf View Link Road, Gulf View, San Fernando Email nichossa@live.com Specialty bakery, breakfast, lunch, dinner, catering for functions.
Restaurants
Irie Bites
Salad Café
El Pecos Grill
Sample Menu
Sample Menu
Sample Menu
Meats with two sides Pork – Smoked BBQ/Jerk, Pork Ribs – Smoked BBQ, Chicken – Smoked BBQ /Jerk, Fish – Grilled/Jerk, Lamb – BBQ/Jerk Side Bites Sauteed cassava/plantain, Jamaican rice & peas, Stewed lentils, Green salad, and many more! Daily Lunch Specials Monday – Stewed fried fish and two sides Tuesday – Chicken pelau, cole slaw, fresh salad Wednesday – Jamaican curry goat, white rice, green fig, green salad Thursday – Stewed oxtails, red beans, white rice, green salad Friday – Stewed pork, calaloo, provisions Saturday – Ackee and salt fish, provisions OR Beef and oxtail soup
Appetizer Mushrooms stuffed with Brie Salad The Savannah (all green) Mixed greens and spinach, Broccoli, Feta cheese, Green apples, Seasoned whole grain pasta, Green peppers, Grilled tilapia, Chadon beni vinaigrette Dessert Double F Filo pastry stuffed with fresh cooked fruits and served with frozen yogurt
Meats Chicken – rotisserie, BBQ, jerk, fried, stewed, curried, Beef – stewed, roast, pastelles Pork – BBQ ribs, jerk, BBQ, BBQ pigtail Fish – grilled, stewed, fried, Lamb – BBQ, grilled Sides Rice – festive, white, bhagi, pelau Provisions – steamed, plantain, buttered cassava, parsley potato, sweet potato wedges, steak fries, seasoned fries Vegetables – chunky vegetables, corn, melongene ratoullie Salads Greens, cole slaw, green fig, macaroni, potato Macaroni pie, dumplings, peas/beans Saturday Specials Oxtail & beef soup, pig foot souse
Unique and flavourful, Irie Bites combines the earthy taste of good old Jamaica with the excitement of Trini cuisine. Our signature brand Irie Bites provides mouth-watering authentic Jamaican jerk and smoked BBQ meats. For those on the go or busy at the office, there’s no need to sacrifice quality and value. Simply call, place your order and collect. Let our red, green, yellow and black sign lead you to a true taste of Jamaica. Irie Bites – savour the experience!
Tel/Fax (868) 622-7364 Address 71A Ariapita Avenue, Woodbrook Tel/Fax (868) 622-6725 Address 153 Western Main Road, St. James Web www.iriebitesjerk.com
Salad Café has elevated the ever-so-simple salad to a level of artistry where you either choose from a list of hearty salads created by the owner or become the artist, building a lavish self-expressed meal that only you can perfect. The choice ranges from a list of Essential or Premium items, where the ingredient options can be pleasantly overwhelming. Not only is the selection brimming with nutrients that your doctor would deem a thumbs-up choice, but the ample serving size is sure to fill you up. Ideally situated on the Avenue, this Café is growing in popularity, with regulars and newcomers elated that such a place has finally made it to our shores. Come “eat healthy, live healthy” with us. Mon — Wed: 10:30 a.m. – 8:30 p.m. Thurs — Fri: 10:30 a.m. – 10:30 p.m. Sat — 10:30 a.m. – 3:30 p.m. Tel (868) 623-4733 Address 83A Ariapita Avenue, Woodbrook, Trinidad Email saladcafett@gmail.com Facebook Salad Café
El Pecos offers you the best in fast casual dining, with a solid reputation for consistently good food and value for money. At any location you can expect the same mouth-watering, hearty, home-style cooking that has become the El Pecos trademark. Indulge yourself in our delicious selection of meats, all fire-grilled or slow-cooked to perfection and served with a variety of superb sides. Simply serve yourself, weigh and pay for your food by the pound. So come in and let us take your taste buds on a sumptuous adventure! Diego Martin (868) 63-PECOS Diego Martin Main Road Woodbrook (868) 622-9713 84A Ariapita Avenue, Cor. De Verteuil Street, Woodbrook Maraval (868) 628-7186 Royal Palm Plaza, 7 Saddle Road, Maraval Barataria (868) 63-PECOS Lower 6th Avenue, Barataria TT$ 35.00 per lb. Dining 10:00 a.m. – 9:00 p.m.
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Fast Facts
Fast Facts on Trinidad & Tobago LOCATED at the gateway to the Caribbean, the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago is renowned for its industrialised, energy export-driven economy; vibrant culture and multiethnic society. T&T is a leading regional economy with an international presence in the oil and gas-based energy industry, and a profitable and productive services sector. T&T is also pursuing a policy of economic diversification and is investing in several other sectors. Trade, investment and innovation are also policy priorities of this twoisland nation as it continues on its path to development. Geography and Location Trinidad – Once attached to the South American mainland, Trinidad is situated 12 km (7 miles) northeast of the coast of Venezuela and is separated from it by the Gulf of Paria. Trinidad has three mountain ranges: the Northern Range, the Central Range and the Southern Range. The highest point, El Cerro del Aripo, is 940 metres (3,084 ft) above sea level. About 40% of all land is undeveloped forest and woodlands, although the island is experiencing rapid development. Trinidad’s Pitch Lake is the largest natural reservoir of asphalt. Total Area: 4,828 sq km (1,864 sq miles) 81.25 km long by 57-73 km wide (50 miles by 35-45 miles) Location: Latitude 10.5° N Longitude 61.5° W Tobago – Tobago lies 34 km (21 miles) northeast of Trinidad. Of volcanic origin, the island is a single mountain mass, although the southwest is flat or undulating and coralline. The highest peak, the Main Ridge, reaches an elevation of about 576 metres (1,890 ft). The coastline is broken by inlets and sheltered beaches, and there are several uninhabited islets. Total Area: 300 sq km (116 sq miles) Location: Latitude 11.5° N Longitude 60.5° W Climate Trinidad and Tobago has a tropical climate. Daytime temperatures average 31ºC (87ºF) and are moderated by the northeast trade winds, while nights are a cool 21ºC (69ºF). The islands have two distinct seasons: dry, from January to May, and wet, from June to December. There is a short dry period around mid-September called Petit Carême. Trinidad and Tobago are just outside the usual path of hurricanes and other tropical storms but Tobago can experience inclement weather as a result of such weather systems. People and Society Population: 1.3 million Ethnic Groups: Indian (South Asian) 40.3% African 39.6% Mixed 18.4% European 0.6% Chinese and Other 1.1% Average Life Expectancy: 70.3% Median Age (2013 estimate): 33.9 (male 33.4, female 34.4) Population Growth Rate: -0.09% (2013 estimate)
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Birth Rate: 14.07 births/1,000 Population (2013 estimate) Time Zone Greenwich Mean Time: Minus four hours In US Winter: Eastern Standard Time plus one hour (EST +1) In US Summer: Eastern Standard Time (EST) There is no daylight savings time. Government Trinidad and Tobago’s government is a parliamentary democracy. The head of state is the President, who is elected by an Electoral College of members of the Senate and House of Representatives for a five-year term. Executive power, however, is vested in the Prime Minister and Government following elections every five years. The local government body in Tobago is the Tobago House of Assembly and its seat is in the capital city, Scarborough. Head of State: President Anthony Carmona Head of Government: Prime Minister Kamla Persad-Bissessar Leader of the Tobago House of Assembly: Chief Secretary Orville London http://www.ttconnect.gov.tt/gortt/portal/ ttconnect; http://www.thepresidency.tt/ http://www.opm.gov.tt/; http://www.tha.gov.tt/ Economic Data T&T’s economy is heavily impacted by its oil, gas and petrochemicals industry. In 2012 the energy sector contributed an estimated TT$48,917.9 million or 43.7% of GDP and 81.4% of export receipts. The other major contributor is the services sector, which generated 61.2% of all employment in 2012. Increasingly, T&T is experiencing growth in the non-energy sector, primarily in the areas of distribution (retail in particular) and finance. Exchange Rate: US$1: TT$6.40 (2013 estimate) GDP: US$27.14 billion (2012 estimate) GDP Per Capita: US$20,400 (2012 estimate) Labour Force: 632,500 (2012 estimate) Unemployment Rate: 5.4% (2012 estimate) Inflation Rate: 7.2% (2012 estimate) Major Exports: ammonia, asphalt, crude oil, LNG, methanol, petrochemicals, urea Major Trading Partners: Canada, CARICOM, China, Colombia, Costa Rica, Cuba, Japan, Korea, USA, Venezuela Banking Number of Commercial Banks: 8 Number of Branches: 133 Prime Lending Rate: 7.8% (2012 estimate) Number of Automatic banking machines (ABMs): 254 Bank Hours of Operation: City Centres – Monday to Thursday – 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Friday – 8:00 a.m. to noon & 3:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. Bank Hours of Operation: Shopping Centres – 10:00 a.m. or 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. or 6:00 p.m.
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
Meeting Places and Conference Centres Trinidad and Tobago is one of the top five Caribbean meeting and conference destinations. Many hotels have facilities for conferences, including international brands such as the Hyatt Regency Trinidad and the Hilton Trinidad and Conference Centre. In addition to the state-of-the-art National Academy for the Performing Arts, award-winning spots like Coco Reef Resort in Tobago and the Magdalena Grand Beach Resort are ideal for corporate meetings and team-building retreats. T&T is host to over 84,000 business travellers annually. The Tourism Development Company Limited comprises a Convention Bureau department within its organisational structure. http://www.tdc.co.tt/ Business Hours Offices: Monday to Friday – 8:00 am to 4:30 pm Government Offices: Monday to Friday – 8:00 am to 4:00 pm (City Centres): Monday to Friday – 8:00 am to 4:30 pm; Saturday – 8:00 am to 1:00 pm Retail (Shopping Centres): Monday to Saturday – 10:00 am to 7:00 pm Legal System The legal system is based on common law and statutes. The judicial system comprises magistrates’ courts and the Supreme Court, which is made up of the High Court and the Court of Appeal. There is a separate Industrial Court that deals with most labour matters. The Judicial and Legal Service Commission appoints judges of the Supreme Court. The Attorney General is responsible for the administration of the legal and judicial system. http://www.ag.gov.tt/ http://www.legalaffairs.gov.tt/ http://www.moj.gov.tt/ Education The educational system is based on the British system and produces one of the highest standards of education in the Caribbean. The estimated literacy rate is over 98%. Health Trinidad and Tobago’s health system consists of government-funded and private hospitals, well-qualified specialists, private medical practitioners and clinics scattered throughout the islands. Specialists trained in gynaecology, paediatrics, radiology, physiotherapy, cardiology, gastrology, urology and orthopaedics work both in private practice and healthcare facilities. Medical services are free at the governmentfunded institutions and clinics, but a fee is charged at all others. Twenty-four-hour emergency services are available at several government and private medical facilities. There is also a 24-hour Emergency Air Ambulance Service. The new Scarborough hospital was opened in Tobago in 2012. http://www.health.gov.tt/
Fast Facts
Public Utilities Electricity – Trinidad and Tobago has a reliable supply of electricity. The domestic and commercial supply voltage is 110/220 volts, 60 cycles. The Trinidad and Tobago Electricity Commission (T&TEC) is the agency responsible for T&T’s electrical supply. http://www.ttec.co.tt/ Water – The Water and Sewerage Authority (WASA), a state enterprise, is the sole provider of water and wastewater services in Trinidad and Tobago. http://www.wasa.gov.tt/ Telecommunications Trinidad and Tobago’s telecommunications sector has shown strong growth over the last years. TSTT provides both landline and mobile telephone services. Digicel, a rapidly growing telecommunications operator in the Caribbean, offers mobile phone services in both islands, and Flow (Columbus Communications) offers cable television, Internet and landline telephone services. Several smaller entrants are establishing a presence in the fixed line telecommunications market. International direct distance dialing is available nationwide and on public payphones. International phone cards are sold in many local shops, and pharmacies. With broad coverage throughout the islands, mobile phones are an easy and available option. Wireless Internet services are readily available at hotels and cybercafés. International Access and Area Code: 1-868 https://tatt.org.tt/ Post/Courier Services Regular mail, express mail and courier delivery are reliable and available from local provider TTPost at excellent rates. International courier services are efficient and readily available. http://www.ttpost.net/ Media Daily Newspapers: Trinidad Express, Trinidad Guardian and Newsday Bi-weekly Newspapers: TNT Mirror. Weekly Newspapers: Tobago News, Catholic News, Bomb, ShowTime, Punch Television stations: CNC (channel 3), CCN TV6 (channels 6 and 18), Gayelle Television (channel 7), IBN (Channel 8), CNMG (channel 9), NCC (channel 4). IETV (channel 16), Parliament (channel 11), Synergy TV (33), Tobago (channel 5). There are a number of AM and FM Radio Stations broadcasting news and different genres of music. Roads Trinidad and Tobago has an extensive transportation network of paved roads. Highways link the north and south of the island (Uriah Butler Highway, Solomon Hochoy Highway), and the east and west (ChurchillRoosevelt Highway). Driving is on the left-hand side. http://www.mowt.gov.tt/ http://www.ptsc.co.tt/
Immigration, Work Permits and Visas Visitors to Trinidad and Tobago must possess valid passports and return or ongoing tickets for successful entry. Most Commonwealth countries do not require visas for entry, except Australia, New Zealand, India, Nigeria, Papua New Guinea, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Cameroon, Fiji Islands, Mozambique, Uganda and South Africa. Visitors from several other countries are allowed to enter Trinidad and Tobago for periods of up to three months without a visa. Holders of CARICOM passports, with the exception of Haiti, do not require a visa. http://www.immigration.gov.tt/ Work permits are required for business stays beyond 30 days. Visa extensions can be obtained from the Immigration Office at 67 Frederick Street, Port of Spain, while work permits can be obtained from the Ministry of National Security, Temple Court II, 52-60 Abercromby Street, Port of Spain. www.nationalsecurity.gov.tt, www.ttbizlink.gov.tt; www.investt.org Transportation Airports – Piarco International Airport is located about 45 minutes from the capital city, Port of Spain. It plays an important role as a vital hub for international air traffic in the Caribbean. There are non-stop daily scheduled flights to and from major international cities. Trinidad and Tobago’s national airline, Caribbean Airlines, serves London Gatwick, Toronto, New York, Miami, and popular regional destinations. International and regional airlines that fly to Trinidad and Tobago include American Airlines, British Airways, Caribbean Airlines, United Airlines, LIAT and several charter flight companies. International flights are also available direct from Tobago’s ANR Robinson International Airport. http://www.tntairports.com/ Major Airlines American Airlines (868) 821-6000 British Airways (800) 247-9297 Caribbean Airlines (868) 625-7200 Copa Airlines (800) 271-2672 United Airlines (868) 624-1737 LIAT (888) 844-5428 Seaports – The main seaports are located in Port of Spain and Point Lisas. The Port of Port of Spain handles dry and general cargo, break bulk, containers and passenger traffic. The Point Lisas Industrial Port Development Corporation Ltd (PLIPDECO), mainly a bulk port for industrial commerce, also handles container and general cargo traffic. The CARICOM Jetty, which is located at the Port of Port of Spain and operates the Passenger Inter-Island Ferry, receives, stores and delivers CARICOM cargo and multi-purpose containers for trade within the Caribbean region. There are two fast ferries (T&T Express and T&T Spirit) and one conventional ferry (Warrior Spirit) travelling the inter-island route daily.
The Chaguaramas Ferry is a joint partnership between the Chaguaramas Development Authority (CDA) and the National Infrastructure Development Company Limited (NIDCO). The ferry sails into Chaguaramas from Port of Spain (terminal located next to the Hyatt Regency) on Saturday and Sunday at $ 20 return. Secure parking is available at all ports. There is also a Free Shuttle Service for ferry passengers that travels North to Macqueripe, West to Tetron and East to Tembladora respectively with scheduled stops conveniently located along the way. For more information contact the Chaguaramas Development Authority (CDA) at 868-6344227/4312/2424/4349 or National Infrastructure Development Company Limited (NIDCO) at 8004WTS or (868) 624-5137 (Port of Spain Office) and 868- 652-9980 (San Fernando Office). A water taxi ferry connects Port of Spain and San Fernando. Scheduled sailing times are Monday to Friday. Tickets cost TT$15 one way and can be purchased at the Water Taxi Terminal located at Flat Rock, Lady Hailes Avenue, San Fernando or the Cruise Ship Complex, Port of Spain. Log on to: http://www.patnt.com or call (868) 623-2901 (PBX) or Port of Spain Ferry servoce (868) 625-4906/3055 or Tobago (868) 6392417/4906. Safety in Trinidad and Tobago Drugs: There are severe penalties, including long jail terms for possession and trafficking of illegal drugs like cannabis (marijuana, weed or ganja) or cocaine. Centipede and Scorpion stings: While not lethal, you should consult a doctor in case of allergic reaction. Manchineel Apples (Hippomane mancinella): Found near to or on beaches. Avoid any contact with the fruit or the tree, both of which are highly toxic and corrosive. Portuguese Man-O-War (Physalia physalis): Small, translucent air bladders with a purple to light-blue tint, usually float in the water or get washed up on shore. The tentacles inflict a very painful sting. Immediately apply vinegar for about 30 minutes and seek medical attention. Mosquito and Sandfly Bites: Many repellents are available, including oil of lemon, eucalyptus and citronella. Antihistimine creams will relieve itching. Sea Urchin Spines: If the spines are protruding from your skin, then you can try to remove them, otherwise leave them in your skin, soak the affected area in warm water and seek medical attention. Eco-tourism Trinidad and Tobago, although relatively distinct ecologically, are both blessed with rich natural environments well suited for eco-tourism. http://www.tdc.co.tt/ http://www.gotrinidadandtobago.com/ http://www.tourism.gov.tt/
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3D Map: E. Matthews - Digital Art Ltd
Photo: Edison Boodoosingh
Photo: CaféMoka Gallery
Photo: Inken Janning
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Tobago has one of the richest cultures in the Caribbean, as diverse as the countries that invaded and colonized it. The biggest influence comes from the island’s African ancestry, which permeates dance, song, folklore, superstitions, stories and community life. Many of Tobago’s forefathers arrived as slaves, bringing with them their unique style of cooking, dress, beliefs and customs. To maintain absolute control, the slave masters tried to destroy these traditions, imposing a Eurocentric value system on the slaves. Everything African was seen to be heathen, evil and backward. But slaves strived to keep it alive, and these beliefs can still be seen throughout Tobagonian life and festivals. Carnival is one of the biggest festivals. It’s more laid back than the frenzy that erupts in Trinidad, but is truly a time when the island’s traditions are embraced. Any visitor is immediately caught up in steel pan, masquerade and calypso, but on a more intimate scale. On J’Ouvert morning the deserted streets of Scarborough, Roxborough and Crown Point become a mass of jumping, dancing and shouting people who take part in the timehonoured tradition involving smearing paint, mud or oil on their bodies. Roxborough and Scarborough are the focus of the traditional “Mas” and music. The streets are awash with colour as streams of Carnival characters “chip”, accompanied by steelpan and the inevitable sound of the bottle and spoon. The parades finish in the evening, but the partying continues long into the night. Tobagonians are, naturally, proud and passionate about their cultural heritage and love sharing and showcasing it to visitors. It is no surprise that there are celebrations and festivals nearly every month; the biggest of these is the island-wide Tobago Heritage Festival, which runs from mid-July to August. Each village hosts its own event, offering visitors a chance to explore the island and immerse themselves in Tobago culture.
F
ESTIVALS Photo: Edison Boodoosingh
Photo: Inken Janning
Photo: Aujourd’hui Studio
HERITAGE FESTIVAL
Festivals
Tobago Festivals By Katy Young
Ole Time Wedding
One of the most popular parts of the heritage festival is the re-enactment of a traditional Tobago wedding. It is designed to highlight the European influences on the island. The women wear long, colourful gowns, while the men wear black stovepipe hats, scissor-tail coats, white gloves, bow ties and umbrellas to provide their partners with shade. Hundreds come to witness the preparation of the bride, dressed all in white. This is followed by the wedding, and then the heel-and-toe procession through Moriah to the reception site. There is plenty of feasting and entertainment into the night, including dancing the reel and jig. The rituals reflect traditional values such as fertility, purity and fidelity.
Les Coteaux Folktales and Superstitions
The village of Les Coteaux is synonymous with mystery. It was the landing place of the legendary African witch known as Gang Gang Sara, who, it is said, flew to Tobago to search for her family, who had been sold into slavery. The village is also thought to be the centre for Tobago’s obeah, a type of witchcraft. As you might therefore expect, these myths have been woven into an annual play performed as part of the Heritage Festival. Local actors and actresses put on the comedic presentations; characters include the commerce lady, the obeah man and the preacher. These characters draw on Tobago’s rich Amerindian, European and African influences. The tales usually involve themes such as retribution for bad behaviour and reversals of fortune.
The Seafood Festival
A true celebration of the sea and the importance of fishing in Tobago. This annual festival is held in Roxborough and provides a wonderful opportunity to sample many of the local seafood dishes. Earlier in the morning there is the re-enactment of the Belmanna Riots of 1876, which saw slaves at a Roxborough Cocoa Estate rise up against bad working conditions. It celebrates the close community spirit amongst Tobago’s slave population, a way for many to survive. Other fishing villages in Tobago also hold fêtes during the Heritage Festival, including Charlotteville and Black Rock where there is the chance to take part in “pulling seine”. This communal hauling in of fish has been taking place in Tobago for a least one hundred and fifty years; everyone taking part gets a share of the catch. This cooperative work ethic can be traced back to Africa; the method was adopted by Tobago’s slave population after Emancipation to build homes and work the land.
Other Festivals Blue Food Festival Photo: CaféMoka Gallery
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This is a unique culinary event held every October at Bloody Bay, and which celebrates the humble root vegetable, taro, known locally as dasheen. It is known as “blue food”
Photo: CaféMoka Gallery
Festivals
as it turns a blue-white colour when cooked. The term now encompasses all ground or starchy provisions, such as yam, cassava, sweet potato, breadfruit, pumpkin and plantain. Over the years Tobagonian cooks have taken the humble dasheen and turned it into arguably one of the most diverse vegetables in the region. Now it is used in appetizers, entrées, desserts, beverages and liqueurs – anything you can imagine, from lasagne to ice cream. The Blue Food Festival is the chance for local chefs to compete for prizes and show off their talent and imagination, creating new dishes with dasheen.
Goat and Crab Racing
Goat racing has the pageantry and pomp of a day at the races, like Ascot or the Grand National. There are stables, owners, trainers, “jockeys” and “steeds”, which are carefully selected and trained; ladies even dress up in their best clothes and hats. There is a lot of shouting, cheering and hollering from
the crowd as they urge on their favourite goat or crustacean. Luckily for the “steeds”, the jockeys don’t ride the animals; they just run alongside them. Racing happens in both Buccoo and Mount Pleasant. It has evolved into a truly family affair, where generations meet through tradition and visitors caught up in the festive atmosphere become honorary Tobagonians for a day.
Harvest and Fisherman’s Fetes
These are at the core of community life in Tobago, where villages take turns throughout the year to come together and give thanks. Generally, it begins with a church service, before villagers go home to cook. There is the atmosphere of a village fair, with music and dance. Each household in the village throws open its doors, and visitors and friends alike are urged to sample a delicious range of food, from stewed chicken and curried crab to cassava, barbecued fish and macaroni pie. Where else could you call in at a stranger’s house and be welcomed inside for food and drink?
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Robert Mitchum putting sunscreen on Rita Hayworth on the set of “Fire Down Below” (1957). www.ritahayworthafreebirdinflight.tumblr.com
Tobago -Dream location of Hollywood’s Golden Age
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ith its aqua blue waters, jungle rainforest, sandy beaches, and waterfalls and rivers, Tobago captured the imagination of Hollywood director John Huston, who chose the island for the location of his 1957 classic Heaven Knows, Mr. Allison. The film stared British actress Deborah Kerr and one of the finest actors of the Golden Age of Hollywood, Robert Mitchum. Many locals were hired as extras during the 1956 filming of a story that explored the relationship between a Marine and an Irish nun trapped on a small Pacific island in the Second World War. During filming, Mitchum and Huston spent many “boys’ nights out”, enjoying the local nightlife and the inevitable rum cocktails. For Mitchum, it was the start of a love affair with Tobago. He would return less than a year later for the filming of the steamy melodrama Fire Down Below, which also stared Rita Hayworth and Jack Lemmon. When filming began for three months in Tobago, the entire cast and crew lived aboard a chartered freighter. Mitchum and Lemmon play two small-time smugglers sailing around the Caribbean on a small tramp boat. While in Tobago, they agree to transport the beautiful and mysterious (and passport-less) Irena, played by Hayworth, to Trinidad. Both men fall in love with her, ending in betrayal. Filming initially started in Trinidad, where Mitchum, living up to his Hollywood “bad boy” persona, almost caused a diplomatic incident when he sarcastically declared to an official that he was carrying marijuana. The US State Department had to be called in, but
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Mitchum just responded “Don’t these people have a sense of humour?” He was a well-known practical joker. Carlos Dillon, who grew up overlooking Buccoo Bay, remembers it well. “My father’s boat was used to transport all the equipment while they were filming at No Man’s Land. As a child I used to sit in the bow of the boat, watching the actors do their scenes. It was magical.” Mr. Dillon got to know Mitchum, continuing to meet up with him whenever the Hollywood legend returned to the island. “The great thing was that Robert Mitchum, Rita Hayworth and the others just melted into the local scene. It was not unusual to see them limin’ with locals. I remember Robert Mitchum coming back from drinking on Pigeon Point. He crashed his car into a coconut palm on Pigeon Point Road.” Other tales of Mitchum’s excesses include a fight with three drunken sailors who challenged him. Mitchum won, adding to his legendary offscreen exploits. Tobago’s music scene also inspired Mitchum. He had already met the Calypso King of the World, The Mighty Sparrow, and Lord Invader, while filming Heaven Knows, Mr. Allison. He spent much of his free time at local live music shows, listening to traditional calypso music and buying up local records. Back in the States, Mitchum went to singer-songwriter Johnny Mercer with the idea of doing a calypso album. Mercer told him to try Capitol Records. In March 1957 Mitchum recorded Calypso – Is like so, his own record of island tunes. The album (the cover shows a rum-drinking Mitchum and a dusky, exotic beauty) flopped, with some reviewers criticising Mitchum’s effort to reproduce the Trinbagonian cadence and dialect. Both Mitchum and Hayworth continued to return to Tobago, staying at the Blue Haven Hotel at Bacolet outside Scarborough. They knew the area well. The hotel, as well as Bacolet Beach, were locations during the filming of Fire Down Below. According to local legend, Mitchum would regularly get drunk and take a swing at any unfortunate guest who happened to become too friendly with his female companions. Taxi driver Cecil Lyons regularly drove for Mitchum and Hayworth. He recalled to a journalist that, “Robert Mitchum, he a man who like to move de hands fast, especially when someone talk to his woman.” Mr. Lyons also drove for British actor John Mills, who was on the island filming the 1960 Disney classic Swiss Family Robinson. Initially, the director Ken Annakin struggled to find the perfect location for the shoot, until a local in Trinidad suggested they try Tobago. Annakin and his team arrived on the island and fell in love with the scenery. Some of the shooting took place at Bacolet Beach, as well as other locations. Everything had to be shipped in from Trinidad, along with the dozens of animals which feature in the film. Shooting was often difficult. The actors did many of their own stunts, including being dragged through the sea, wading through swamps, and wrestling animals. They also weathered a typhoid epidemic and bad weather, which turned the set into a mud bath. But despite the challenges, the actors all grew to love the island. In his autobiography, Up in the Clouds, Gentlemen Please, John Mills says of Tobago, “Unlike a sugar island like Barbados, it was lush; the scenery was varied and very beautiful. I was lucky to see it before it became popular, with the inevitable golf course and noisy water sports. It was simple and totally unspoilt: miles of empty golden beaches lapped by the sea, which was full of exotic and highly-coloured fish that, as they were never shot, were so tame they poked their noses against our facemasks as we swam amongst them.” By Chris Morvan
History
a turbulent and fertile land where anything was possible
tobago By Gérard A. Besson
T
o get an idea of the development of Tobago is to begin to understand the manner in which it has been adopted and orphaned, abandoned and colonised, annexed and amalgamated over the centuries. Between the islands of Tobago and Trinidad lies a body of water known as the Galleons Passage, through which the huge lumbering treasure-laden ships, sailing from the silver mines of the Argentine and bound for the mints of Cartagena, passed. As such, Tobago became a key island amongst these contending powers. To the eye of the 17th Century marauders, the beauty of Tobago lay along its leeward coast with its well-concealed, deep, safe harbours from which attacks upon Spanish shipping could be launched with impunity. To the cartographers of previous centuries, the Guyana coast was known as the Wild Coast, and although a Spanish possession, as just about everything was in the western hemisphere, it was not really held in strength by Spain. Both the British and the Dutch were attracted to this formidable wilderness. They would sometimes think of Tobago as a base camp for adventures, forays up into the great river systems, often to vanish without a trace. By the mid-17th Century, the French, too, sought to influence events. Tobago, as a consequence, was often caught up in these conflicts of interest. Did Columbus discover Tobago? Did he see it at all? This is in serious doubt. It is more than likely that it was stumbled upon by Amerigo Vespucci several years later. The priest Bartolomeo de las Casas thought that Columbus
Photo Courtesy: Paria Publishing
called it Belaforma. Others said that its first name was Assumption, or Asuncion. But at last, it was called Tobago, after the shape of a tubed instrument, called “tavaco” by the naturals, in which they smoked a herb that they called “cohiba” (tobacco). Sir Walter Raleigh may be given the dubious credit of introducing the herb now known as tobacco to the world after his visit to these islands. Today, both the French and the Dutch still spell Tobago, Tavaco. Tobago, although small compared to other islands, has such a variety of natural regions, each well suited to some specific crop. Tobago did not evolve as a monoculture as other islands, such as Barbados, whose economy has been dominated by sugar cane. In Tobago, the Europeans planted sugar cane, cocoa, cotton, indigo, cinnamon, peppers and tobacco. This was a very desirable feature, in that as prices for various commodities altered, with a bit of luck and careful planning, one could always have something to take to the market that would fetch a good price. By the 18th Century, the island began to be increasingly British, although France still had a hand to play. Notwithstanding, by 1773, there were 84 mills grinding cane, to which some 5,000 acres were devoted. 15,000 acres were under cotton. It’s no surprise, therefore, that over the centuries Tobago’s fertile soil and unparalleled beauty has continued to provide its inhabitants with a reliable source of income through its two major economic drivers, agriculture and tourism. Excerpts of Tobago History by Gérard A. Besson caribbeanhistoryarchives.blogspot.com
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Photo: Joshua Joseph
Photo: Kevin Kenny
Photo: Inken Janning
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Tobago may be just 41 kilometres long and 14 kilometres wide, but it is one of the most diverse islands in the Caribbean. Tobago’s lush green interior, aqua blue water and palm-lined, sandy beaches are not to be missed, and are definitely worth exploring. The Main Ridge Forest Reserve is the oldest protected rainforest in the Western Hemisphere, and is home to hundreds of species of birds, mammals, reptiles and butterflies. Nature is one of the best reasons to visit Tobago, and many visitors make the most of scuba diving, birding, hiking, mountain biking, stand-up paddleboarding, and boat trips. Every year, leatherback turtles return to the island to lay their eggs, coming back to the beach of their birth. These magnificent creatures make their way ashore at night to dig their nests. Months later the eggs hatch and hundreds of tiny turtles make their way to the water. Eco tours are available to witness both of these incredible feats of nature. Exploring Tobago on an island tour is a great way to see the island. Take in the magnificent vistas, which vary from the rugged Atlantic coast to the scenic Caribbean coast with its white sand beaches. Cool down with a refreshing waterfall swim or explore one of the island’s historic sites. Tobago has a rich historic past, having been captured more times than any other island in the Caribbean. Over the centuries its been fought over by the French, British, Dutch and the Courlanders, and each of these nations have left their mark on the island. In 1807, 15,000 slaves were freed on Tobago following the abolition of the slave trade, and they, too, have also contributed to the rich cultural tapestry of Tobago. Prior to the discovery of Tobago by the Europeans, the island was home to three early Amerindian cultures, including the Arawaks and the Caribs. Remnants of Tobago’s history and culture are just waiting to be explored. Discover it! By Katy Young
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OURING 146 SIGHTS 150 BEACHES
Photo: Joshua Joseph
SIGHTS
Sights
Photo: Stephen Broadbridge
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Atlantic Coast Sights Petit Trou lagoon, located within Tobago Plantations Beach and Golf Resort, is a wetland with a boardwalk that winds through the mangrove – a lovely scenic walk with good bird watching throughout the area. Scarborough, Tobago’s capital since 1769, is home to the Tobago Museum, housed at the “Officers’ Mess”, Fort King George. Open Monday to Friday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. For more information, call (868) 639-3970. Fort King George, established in 1777 and abandoned in 1854, also has the remains of a powder magazine, an old hospital, a cell block and a water tank. There are magnificent samaan trees and palms alongside the old colonial building that is now the hospital. The Old Court House, dating from 1852 and located in James Square, is used by the Tobago House of Assembly. There is also an old court house in Studley Park. The Botanic Gardens is accessed from the highway, just east of the main traffic lights. Fort Granby is on the beach shortly after the Studley Park quarry. Goodwood Genesis Nature Park & Art Gallery is on Windward Road between Scarborough and Roxborough. Entrance fee: TT$60 or US$10. Tel: (868) 660-4668. The Goldsborough side road leads to Rainbow Falls, a visit to which should only be attempted with a local guide. The Richmond 18th Century Great House is open to the public, with a small entrance fee, and refreshments are available. The Kendal Great House, used by the THA, is visible on the hillside just before Roxborough. Argyle Waterfall is a beautiful three-tiered waterfall, where visitors must use local guides for the twentyminute walk and a swim. Turn left as you cross the bridge west of Roxborough. Entrance fee: TT$50. The Cocoa Factory in a nearby cacao plantation is just past the entrance to Argyle Falls. Roxborough, capital of the north-east, has examples of colonial architecture in the Court and VAT buildings on the waterfront. Here begins the forest road that crosses the Main Ridge hills, with a lookout mid-way. Louis d’Or Old French Barracks is on the left side of main road, followed by the government plant nursery. Continuing along this scenic coastal road, you can spot the King’s Bay Great House, with its cocoa sheds, a waterfall and a beach facility. Speyside Lookout has a wonderful view across Tyrell’s Bay to Goat Island and Little Tobago. Little Tobago is an uninhabited bird sanctuary, thanks to Sir William Ingram’s efforts to preserve the habitat of numerous species of exotic birds. Goat Island, also a bird sanctuary, was once visited by Ian Fleming, creator of James Bond, an ornithologist who wrote a book on T&T birds. The Speyside Waterwheel and Sugar Factory ruins are beside the bridge on the road to Blue Waters Inn. The Flagstaff Hill Lookout used by the forces during WW2 is as far east as you can go!
Photo: Kevin Kenny
Sights
Caribbean Coast Sights Charlotteville is a quaint seaside town, with cocoa sheds and Fort Cambleton overlooking Man O’ War Bay. There is a nice walk to Pirates’ Bay. This area is ideal for diving and snorkelling. Between Charlotteville and Bloody Bay is a scenic coastal drive. Bloody Bay is where the Gilpin Trail leads up into the Forest Reserve, protected since 1765. It crosses the island to Roxborough. There are four waterfalls along the way, including Parlatuvier, a small waterfall, and Castara, another small one that only really flows in the rainy season. Continuing along the Caribbean coast is Mt. Dillon Lookout, just after Norman Parkinson’s old house. Look out for the giant silk cotton trees with their buttress roots and thorny bark. Les Coteaux Highland Waterfall (off the beaten track) can be found after coming down the big hill into Les Coteaux. Turn left, pass a lovely old church on the left and follow the paved road, turning left again after the bridge. Park near the bridge and follow the track to the falls on foot. Franklyn/Arnos Vale Waterwheel is the site of a sugar factory built by Courlanders in 1670. The ruins include the British sugar mill that closed in 1865. The Bar and Restaurant are open from 9:00 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Tel: (868) 660-0815. Arnos Vale Hotel is great for bird feeding, snorkeling and looking at Amerindian artifacts.
Between Plymouth and Mount Irvine are a series of small forts preserved in little landscaped areas: Fort James, Fort Bennett, Fort Milford and Rocky Point. The Courlander Monument by Janis Mintiks, 1978, was erected in memory of Latvian settlers. Courland Sugar Mill and Factory ruins are located in a residential development. En route you will pass Black Rock, which has an interesting old church with a wood-shingled facade. Adventure Farm is a privately owned nature reserve with a variety of birds, including thousands of humming birds, as well as fruit trees, lots of butterflies and iguanas. The owners serve local fruit juices, coffee and tea. Entrance fee is US$4 or TT$25. Open Monday to Saturday 7:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Lovely hiking trails. Grafton Bird Sanctuary was established in 1963 after Hurricane Flora, when the owner started feeding birds who had lost their habitats. The Castle Museum on Kimme Drive, Mt. Irvine, houses Luise Kimme’s sculptures. Buccoo Marine Park, including Buccoo Marsh for bird watching, Buccoo Reef and the Nylon Pool, has been a protected marine park since 1973. Bon Accord lagoon, Wetlands and No Man’s Land are areas of the park accessible by boat only. The Pigeon Point Heritage Park is a state-owned park with white sand and turquoise sea.
Sherman’s Auto Rentals This vibrant, service-oriented company is operated by a staff that is dedicated to the tourism industry of Tobago. We boast over twenty years in the Automobile Business and today we offer Car Rental Services on the beautiful island of Tobago. Our clients are offered top-of-the-line luxury cars or jeeps. Meeting and greeting on arrival! Address Lambeau Village,Tobago, W.I. Tel (868) 639-2292 Fax 868) 639-3084 U.S. direct line: 1 (469) 532 2544 U.K. direct line: 1 (011) 44 (865) 594706 Email shermans@tstt.net.tt Web www.shermansrentals.com
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A walk in the timeless forest By Chris Morvan
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e’re ambling along an ancient path that was once part of a trail leading from Scarborough to Bloody Bay. It is just after 7:00 a.m. and it is getting warm already, but at this altitude (around 600 metres above sea level) and with the shade from trees that tower overhead, it is relatively cool here. A stream gurgles below us and birds sing above. The only other sound is the tramping of human feet on the path. The man leading the way is Newton George, a tour guide who will take visitors anywhere on the island, but he’s an expert in this particular area. Born and raised in Speyside, Newton studied conservation at university in Trinidad. He’s not the only guide who will show tourists (and locals, for that matter) around, but he certainly knows his subject. With him walking ahead, at times it is impossible to tell where the birdsong is coming from: the birds themselves, Newton’s imitations, or his smart phone, on which he has recorded the distinctive sounds of many of the species to be found here. What is so special about this place, less than an hour’s drive from the hubbub of the capital and a bit more from the touristy area at the eastern end of the island? Well, let’s do some history. When would you say the world woke up to the fact that certain parts of it are vulnerable and worth preserving? The 1990s, when Sting started appearing on chat shows, fretting about the future of the Brazilian rainforest? Or perhaps the 1960s, when the hippies suddenly gave an alternative voice to that of governments and big business? While it might be true that the late 20th Century had everybody saving the whales, looking for holes in an ozone layer they had never heard of before, and filming bits breaking off icebergs as global warming took hold, Tobago was at the forefront in that respect a full two centuries earlier. The first rainforest in the world to gain recognition and protection as a conservation site was the Main Ridge Forest, which, as the name suggests, is on a ridge, and it is bang in the centre of the island. It was the ordinary people living here at the time who went to the government for help to prevent the trees from being
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plundered for timber, realizing that this was an important watershed, which harnessed rain and made it into water available for drinking, washing, etc. A bill was passed in 1765 and the protected area was established in 1776. To call this an ancient rainforest, the nitpickers might counter, would be slightly misleading, because many of the trees were blown down in the hurricane of 1963, but the vast majority were allowed to regenerate naturally, with a few Australian pines being the only newcomers. That being the case, this place that has been along these lines for thousands of years is actually a virgin forest, in the jargon of the forestry community. Looking up the trunk of a huge tree that seems to hurtle towards the sky, it is hard to believe that within living memory, this mass of vertical giants was flattened, devastated. This is a birdwatcher’s paradise, with several species you won’t find anywhere else. A skilled birder himself, Newton spots them where the rest of us don’t. He seems particularly fond of the Blue-Crowned Mot Mot, one of which sits looking at us from a safe distance, and the Blue-Backed Manakin, which he mentions several times, and his claim to fame is being, in 1981, the last person ever to see a Bird of Paradise on Little Tobago, where they were introduced long ago by a British ornithologist, only to struggle and diminish drastically in numbers. The forest provides food for its natural residents, including the fruit of the Ficus tree, also known as the Parrot Apple, which splits open obligingly when ripe and fallen, as a squirrel demonstrates when we are driving back out towards Roxborough. There are seven hiking trails in the Main Ridge Forest, and anyone can roam them free of charge — for now. Plans are in hand to charge admission, so anyone interested in being at one with nature and saving a few dollars at the same time should head up there without delay. In high season the forest might be almost deserted just after sunrise, but within a couple of hours it can be teeming with enthusiasts and people who just enjoy the atmosphere. As a major part of Tobago’s eco-tourism initiative, which also includes very different pastimes such as snorkelling and scuba diving, the forest is an old, old feature of the island which is very much part of the present and the future.
Photo: Peter Sheppard
Sights
Sights
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mmerse yourself in wartime and peacetime history. To get the feel of a place, there is nothing quite like the local museum, and Tobago has an excellent one. The location itself makes it worth a visit, being high on a hill overlooking Scarborough. It’s in an old fort, the late-18thCentury Fort King George. The thing about coastal fortifications is that while, to the visitor, a site such as this merely offers a panoramic view, to the military mind it is a potential stronghold with intrinsic safety because of its elevated position and the advantages of offering a clear view of anyone approaching from the sea, plus the ability to bombard them. Now outdated (and this one was ravaged by a hurricane in 1847 anyway), forts around the world have been turned into museums, and this one is up there with the very best. The building that once served as officers’ accommodation has been refurbished and now plays host to displays of everything from fragments of ancient pottery and weapons to relatively modern items that give a glimpse of Tobago as it was in the 19th and 20th Centuries. What the visitor gets from a tour of the museum depends largely on his or her interpretation. Bits of broken plates and bowls are nothing more than rubble to some, but examples of functional and artistic development to others. The museum offers knowledgeable assistance for researchers, group tours, etc., and on the visits undertaken to gather material for this article, a museum assistant, an artist herself, brought the “rubble” to life with her insight into what was going on and how styles developed, even in distant periods when the pace of change was less frantic than it is today. A collection of maps from down the ages shows how things have changed here, with cartographers of different countries assigning place-names that their predecessors wouldn’t have recognized. Thus the Dutch, the Courlanders (from what is now Latvia), the French and the British called things what they wanted to. One map, notable mainly because it doesn’t follow the convention of having north at the top and south at the bottom, and therefore has Trinidad looking like the shape of a whisky tumbler, with Tobago falling off the end, features “Ian Flamingh’s Bay”, which is more than a Dutchman’s incorrect spelling, because it predates the island’s inhabitation by the James Bond author by several centuries. A museum wouldn’t be complete without some human bones, and here you’ll find the skeleton of a prehistoric Amerindian, discovered at Mount Irvine. Long, long before the Europeans were here and brought in the Africans as slaves, Amerindians settled here, and before Christopher Columbus had even heard of the Caribbean, the Caribs and Arawaks skirmished throughout the region in a long-running feud. The strong African heritage of Tobago is reflected by artefacts in the museum, not just things discovered here and donated by families, but works of art and practical items brought direct from Africa itself to reinforce the bond between that continent and this small island. Just below the fort is a sprawl of buildings that, until recently, housed the island’s main hospital, now replaced by Scarborough General, to the east of the capital. On a fine day Fort King George seems like it would have been a cushy, if sweaty, little tour of duty for the British soldiers stationed here to protect their country’s interests. Even when the rain pours down and it’s like looking at the view through a curtain of glass beads, there is a sense of nature’s magnificence and a feeling of being just a small part of a vast history.
Fort King George By Chris Morvan
Photo: Inken Janning
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Beaches
BEACHES
Pigeon Point
Pigeon Point Heritage Park is Tobago’s premiere beach location, with its iconic jetty and thatched hut, and our only beach with the soft white sand and amazing turquoise waters of the Buccoo Reef. Located on the quieter Caribbean Sea side of the island, this is a perfect beach for families, but also for wind-surfing and kite-boarding within the protected waters of the reef. Looking west, it is also fabulous for sunset photography through the coconut trees. Reef, dive and fishing tours leave from the jetty. The entry fee is TT$18, which allows access to food, drink, toilet facilities and a selection of thatched huts for shelter.
Parlatuvier
This is a quiet fishing village right after Englishman’s Bay, with a picturesque, quaint feel and lovely blue-green water. There is safe bathing and sound anchorage for fishing boats, with a sizeable jetty for landing the catches. There is a small bar and restaurant that serves lunches, but the village is not really suited for tourism.
Castara
The first fishing village after Moriah, Castara developed around tourism. It is quite vibrant, and offers many options for a guesthouse on or near the beach type of holiday, with safe swimming. The smaller Little Bay offers some more privacy. There are a few shops, bars and restaurants, and at night there is a little more activity than is typically found in Tobago’s villages. Just half an hour’s drive from Scarborough.
Store Bay
One of Tobago’s most popular beaches, Store Bay is located right by the airport between Crown Point and Coco Reef hotels. This beach hosts many local events. It is very accessible even on foot, offers great swimming year-round and features craft vendors, shops, toilets, parking and a line-up of local cooks whose names are synonymous with good Tobago food. Think crab and dumpling, conch and stew pork. Everyone pays a visit to Store Bay, from residents taking their early morning sea bath to visitors who like to soak up the local vibe.
Englishman’s Bay
This is a lovely, natural beach about one hour’s drive from Crown Point. Winner of a Best Beach environmental award, it is surely the beach that any visitor would like to discover or any “yachty” would love to anchor off. Certainly, the snorkeling is great. The beach has a gentle slope and is tree-lined at the high water mark, with a stream at the far (western) end. There is a small restaurant that serves tasty local food, a handful of craft vendors and parking. Toilet facilities are limited.
Grafton Beach
Photo: Gregory Scott
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It is popularly called Grafton Beach, after one of the hotels located there, but its real name is Stonehaven Bay, just west of Black Rock. At low tide, you can scramble over the stones that give the bay its name, or swim in the more gentle surf at the Black Rock end, sheltered by the promontory on which Fort Bennett is built. This has some of the best snorkelling in Tobago. There is shade under the sea grape trees if you like a natural ambiance, or try Grafton Hotel’s Buccaneers Beach Bar mid-way down the beach, with its umbrella-shaded tables on a deck above the sand.
Photo: Inken Janning
Photo: Peter Sheppard
Photo: Joshua Joseph
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Tobago’s stunning natural beauty and rich culture have always inspired artists; making art one of the best things to buy to remember a vacation on the island. Art here comes in many different forms, from the simple, hand-carved calabash bird feeder to fine art. As you travel around the island, you will come across many stalls selling locally made craft out of leather, bamboo and wood. Many of these feature images of local flora and fauna. Several outlets sell handmade jewellery, crafted out of beads and glass as well as precious metals. Locally designed ceramics ranging from bowls to wall decorations can be found at Planet Ceramics in Pigeon Point. For fine art, it is worth visiting the studios of some of Tobago’s artists. One of the island’s most established painters is Martin Superville. Self-taught, Martin is best known for his beautifully rendered paintings of dancers, which captivate the viewer with their swirling skirts and alluring demeanour. Although most of his recent works are in oil, he also uses charcoal, pencil, ink, watercolours and airbrushing. His work can be viewed at The Art Gallery in Lowlands. Tobago-born Jason Nedd uses vibrant colour in his work, and is particularly interested in the dramatic contrast of light and shade. From his studio at L’Anse Fourmi, Jason creates oil paintings depicting aspects of Tobago life and culture. Recent exhibitions have focussed on fisher folk, lively characters and landscapes. Based at his studios in Mt. Pleasant, Tomley Roberts uses light, colour and texture to passionately capture Tobago’s cultural heritage. Much of his work depicts the traditions of Tobago’s people against a scenery of rich flora. Tomley also uses oils to capture the island’s stunning landscape, and brings many of Tobago’s derelict treasures to life on canvas. The biggest influence on Tobago’s culture comes from the island’s African ancestry. The work of Dr. James “Jim” Armstrong reflects this and his own experiences in travelling the continent. He is fascinated by colour and movement, and his work uniquely showcases his experiments in tone and texture. He is noted for his depiction of dancers.
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HOPPING
SHOPPING
Shopping
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s soon as you land in Tobago you can start your shopping experience. The island’s famous sweets are available to buy from stalls at the airport in Crown Point. Here, you will find sugar cake (grated coconut and sugar) and Tobago bene balls (hard crunchy balls made of molasses and sesame seeds). This should give you enough energy to immerse yourself in shopping. To explore the island, you can hire a car or jeep. Sherman’s Car Rental can arrange to have a car delivered to you at the airport. From there, visit Things Natural on Milford Road, where you will find local craft and clothing, jewellery, paintings and herbal products. Store Bay and Pigeon Point are great places to buy souvenirs, many of them crafted out of bamboo, wood, leather, calabash and ceramics. Shoppes @ Westcity in Canaan offers a versatile range of stores, from clothing and shoe shops to books and soft furnishings. Next door is one of the three Penny Savers supermarkets on the island, which are good for supplies if you are self-catering. There are other supermarkets at Scarborough (Penny Savers and Viewport), Carnbee (Penny Savers) and Bethany (Gourmet Foods/Morshead). Tobago specialities to sample include locally made goat’s cheese, homemade ice cream, and fresh fish and lobster, which are available from vendors around the island. For alcohol, try Time to Wine in Bon Accord or Almandoz in Scarborough. Shirvan Plaza at the corner of Shirvan Road and the Claude Noel Highway has a variety of shops, as well as a casino. At Krackers restaurant you can sample Creole cuisine. For
Shopping the latest in Caribbean and Latin American designer clothing, try the Koral Beach Boutique, which stocks an excellent range of beachwear. If you would like to buy some Tobagonian artwork, The Art Gallery stocks original works by owner Martin Superville and other local artists. There is also a wide range of photographs and limited edition prints. Tobago Charms and Islands Days are both based at the Magdalena Grand Beach Resort at Lowlands. They both offer souvenirs, trinkets and forgotten items, like that muchneeded sunblock, swimsuits, and sandals. If all this shopping has made you hungry, head to Scarborough and the Ciao CafĂŠ. Here you can sample homemade gelato, espresso, cappuccino, pizza and gourmet panini sandwiches. By Katy Young
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Photo: Aujourd’hui Studio
Photo: Peter Sheppard
Photos: Patricia Lewis
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The wonderful part about being in the holiday business – apart from the privilege of helping strangers to the island have a really great time – is that everybody loves going on holiday, and no matter how dark the economic skies and uncertain the future, we all need a break eventually and are prepared to make sacrifices to book that alluring Caribbean “va-kay”. Tobago’s little secret is that it is still so quiet and nature-oriented as a destination that visitors who choose to come here generally fall in love with it. And that means, of course, that the idea of actually owning a holiday home here shines as attractively as the sun that comes up each and every morning. There is quite a significant villa sector within the tourism industry on the island, thanks to a surge in foreign ownership back in the 1990s when land was plentiful, prices were low and flights full. The recession has changed the pattern of international arrivals, and land is not quite so plentiful, but villas are, and the effect of the recession on prices has been a bonus for the new investor. Resort and golf course property is available from around US$450,000 to US1.5m on developments like Samaan Grove, Mt. Irvine Golf Course on the Caribbean coast, and Tobago Plantations beach and golf resort on the windward Atlantic coast. There are also smaller villa developments that are very attractive to the investor, like Sanctuary Resort near Grafton, with townhouses in the $300,000 range, or nearby Villas at Stonehaven, an up-market setting for a clubhouse, restaurant and 14 villas priced around $900,000. Investing in the Bacolet area offers a much wider range of prices since it is an older established residential part of the island, so you get the chance to buy a house as well as a ”villa”, and locations vary from coastal to hillside, but most with a constant breeze and a view. For true nature lovers who relish the absence of street lights and amenities such as shopping and restaurants, the eco-development at Englishman’s Bay will be alluring. There are a scattering of ten- to twenty-year-old villas on the slopes of the rain forest with prices from $460,000 to almost $1m.
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ROPERTY Photo:Photo: Aujourd’hui Janet Studio Fabres
Property An investment here is an investment in peace and harmony with your natural surroundings. Just an hour’s drive from the airport, Tobago is the perfect foil to visitors who lead lives of stress and madness in North America or Europe! Thinking of buying a holiday home? Find a recommended professional real estate agent and give them your budget. They will put together a shortlist that suits your pocket, and with at least a day’s notice they should be able to make appointments for you to view. In high season, this gets a little more difficult, since the properties are often rented out. If you’re a foreign national, your investment is regulated by the Foreign Investment Act of 1990, which allows you to buy up to one acre in specified locations. The purchase procedure involves making an offer, accepted in writing, then you sign a Sale Agreement and make a 10% deposit into an escrow account, with completion 90
days later. During the 90 days your local attorney will search title and draw up the deed of conveyance — or assignment in the case of leasehold land. Leasehold title is common since many villas are located in gated communities with common services and areas that are centrally maintained for the benefit of all owners. Formalities include showing proof of funds entering the local banks, and an application must be made for a licence to own land in Tobago. Whether local or foreign, all parties to a transaction must provide due diligence via proof of identity and source of funds, in compliance with internationally accepted anti-money laundering legislation. With Tobago about to enter a new period of tourism growth, what better moment to snap up your home in the sun at pre-boom prices. Find a good property manager and jump in….the water is very warm! By Seajade Investments, Real Estate Brokers & Property Consultants
Abraham Tobago Realty RESIDENTIAL AND COMMERCIAL SALES, VILLA RENTALS AND PROPERTY MANAGEMENT
Abraham Tobago Realty offers a large selection of Homes and land for Sale and is very much involved in Villa Rentals and Property Management. The range and quality of their services are unequaled on the island. Now you can access accurate real estate information and personalized service from a reputable licensed professional with over 30 years experience in the Real Estate Industry in North America and the Caribbean. Abraham Tobago Realty will find Your Place in the Sun! Address Bacolet Street, Scarborough, Tobago, W.I. Tel (868) 639-3325 Email abrahamrealty@gmail.com Web www.abrahamrealty.com
Caribbean Estates, Lands & Villas VILLA FOR RENT “Infinity” is a beautiful open-plan designed villa with a private infinityedge swimming pool, sitting above the Atlantic coast. There are four air-conditioned bedrooms; two are master bedrooms, and each bedroom has a bath en-suite. The entire house opens onto a large verandah that overlooks the Atlantic. There are hardwood floors throughout the villa, and high ceilings keep the villa cool and airy, a feel which is reflected in the furnishings. VILLA FOR SALE This is a fabulous sea-front villa in a gated community. This newly built, exceptional villa boasts 4 spacious en-suite bedrooms, including a master suite. The living/dining room has a high vaulted ceiling with exposed rafters, with French doors leading out to the pool deck. The disappearing edge pool overlooks Bacolet Bay, with views to Trinidad. The villa sits on 28,874.16 sq. ft. of landscaped garden. Viewing is highly recommended. Address Caribbean Estates, Lands & Villas Cor. Milford & Golden Grove Roads, Canaan, Tobago Tel (868) 639-LAND / 639-5263 / 639-9663 Fax (868) 639-2258 Mobile (868) 678-4107 Email natalie@realestatetobago.com Web www.realestatetobago.com
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Photo: Edison Boodoosingh
Photo: Inken Janning
Photo: Inken Janning
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Despite Tobago’s laid-back vibe, there’s a growing entertainment and nightclub scene on the island. The most famous of Tobago’s nighttime activities is Sunday School. There’s nothing religious about it; instead, it’s a weekly street party held in Buccoo. The evening begins with performances by the Buccooneers Steel Band Orchestra before the crowds swell and the party really gets going, with music pumping from the nearby bars. Make sure you have plenty of energy, as the revelry can go on until dawn. For a warm and friendly welcome, head to any one of Tobago’s bars. They range from upmarket lounges in hotels to beach bars and village rum shops. The Tavaco Lounge at the Magdalena Grand Beach Resort offers cocktails and live piano music, where you can unwind to the sounds of jazz and blues. Every week there is Jazzy Sunday, with different local live bands. Bar Code in Scarborough is a sports bar with pool tables and TV screens showing sporting highlights. It also hosts live entertainment, staging Carnival shows and acts like Rupee, Machel Montano, and Problem Child. The Shade is Tobago’s only outdoor nightclub, where DJs play until the early hours of the morning. Happy hour is a great way to start the evening. Enjoy a cocktail while watching the sun disappear on the horizon. Many of the hotels and restaurants put on live entertainment featuring local acts during the week. If your interest is in blackjack and roulette, then head to one of Tobago’s five casinos. They are all based in the southern end of the island. Many offer free pick up and drop off for players, as well as complimentary drinks and food. Tobagonians love to lime, and a few beers can often turn into a full night of impromptu partying. Nearly every month, different villages on the island host fêtes. Visitors are welcome to come and join in with the festivities, which naturally includes plenty of food and drink.
By Katy Young
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NTERTAINMENT 162 JAZZ 166 FASHION 167 WEDDINGS 170 SPORTS
Photo: Abraham Diaz
Photo: Oswin M Browne
ENTERTAINMENT
Entertainment
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The Tobago Jazz Experience Brings Mega-Stars to the Island By Chris Morvan
The sound of booming music undulating over the beaches and floating over the sea is one of the characteristics of the Caribbean. We love our music here. But wait a minute...this is not a local band with its exuberant soca, that distinctive sound of Trinidad and Tobago. It’s not a group of pannists charming the birds from the trees. This is a mega-famous international star performing songs that everybody knows, and just to prove it, the crowd is singing along with almost religious fervour. “Do you know the way to San Jose?” Actually, you don’t need to — but you know the way to the beaches of Tobago, and so does Dionne Warwick, because she was here last year, playing to ecstatic crowds and bringing to life once again the fabled back catalogue of Burt Bacharach and Hal David. If that is not your bag and you like something with a bit more youthful energy, maybe you would prefer P. Diddy (aka Puff Daddy or Sean “Puffy” Combs). He’s been here, too. Of all the events and initiatives that have been developed in Tobago over the years, the Jazz Festival must be the most ambitious. These things often start off small, but not this one. Stevie Wonder topped the bill in the inaugural festival in 2005, and among the supporting acts were the O’Jays. At this point, readers who know a bit about music may be saying, “Wait a minute. A veteran pop princess? A rapper? Stevie Wonder is Motown’s former child prodigy who went on to be a funk pioneer, and the O’Jays are a soul group. So where is the jazz?” Whatever the original reason for the name, the festival’s organisers — principally John Arnold, events co-ordinator at the Department of Tourism and Transportation — decided that in order to bring in the crowds, they couldn’t afford to be too rigid in their approach. As John, himself a jazz pianist, points out, if the event appealed only to jazz purists, numbers would be pretty limited. One dictionary defines jazz as “a type of music of black American origin which emerged at the beginning of the 20th Century, characterized by improvisation, syncopation, and, usually, a regular or forceful rhythm.” You could certainly apply those criteria to the man who brought us Superstition and Signed, Sealed, Delivered. So, technicalities dismissed. Since 2005, the event now known as the Tobago Jazz Experience has brought to the island artistes ranging from Chaka Khan and Patti Labelle to Rod Stewart. “The bottom line is to attract visitors,” John says. “It benefits hotels, restaurants, taxi drivers, car rental firms, all kinds of businesses.” Elton John might at one time have thought that Scarborough was a windy, chilly seaside town on the east coast of England. Not anymore. He brought his unique brand of camp showmanship and slick musicianship to Tobago for the festival, and was it mere coincidence that his buddy Rod Stewart showed up a year later? The rock world is a network like any other profession. “Where have you been the last couple of
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weeks, Elton? Tobago? That’s in the, errr, West Indies, ain’t it?” “You should try it, Rod. Fly in for a few days, get a tan, swim in warm water and play a bit of music. And you get paid for it!” To organize an event of this size, John Arnold has a team of fewer than 20 people. As much of the equipment as possible is sourced from Tobago itself, although a good deal of it has to be brought in from bigger and better-stocked Trinidad. Stages have to be built, and musical instruments, amplification, etc., set up. If you imagined that Rod Stewart’s keyboard player would have his own instruments and would want to bring them, you are living in a world that is not run by accountants. According to John, if you want a musician to bring his or her own gear, you have to pay them a “rental” fee. So, again, the organisers scour the island for something of the right calibre, and, if they can’t find it, they bring it in from outside. As is the way of things these days, the event is spread around the island, with stages being erected in Speyside just as they are in Plymouth and the more cosmopolitan (but still hardly urban) Pigeon Point. The types of music allocated to the villages is carefully thought through, with soca and other Caribbean styles more likely to be heard in the outlying areas. At the time of writing, John was unable to confirm any headliners for the 2014 event, but judging from past performance, the Tobago Jazz Experience will continue to bring accomplished musicians, world-class performers and music fans here from all over the world. Photo: Abraham Diaz
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Photo: Abraham Diaz
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Feature
Tobago Fashion Weekend By Katy Young
Photo: Edison Boodoosingh
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ince its debut in 2011, Tobago Fashion Weekend (TFW) has put a spotlight on the island as a place to showcase some of the freshest and most exciting couture being dreamed up by the region’s designers. This, coupled with Anya Ayoung-Chee’s winning collection “Tobago Love” on the internationally televised Project Runway, means the island is certainly making its mark on the fashion scene. And with its stunning topography, aqua blue water, palm-lined beaches and unique and rich cultural history, it’s easy to see why Tobago inspires. It’s also not surprising that with a backdrop of the picturesque Pigeon Point Heritage Park, TFW now attracts designers, international media, global celebrities and fashion enthusiasts from across the world. Each year, the organisers of TFW choose a colloquial Tobagonian phrase as the theme for the three-night extravaganza. The first two years concentrated on wearing your best clothes, with “Come Cut Ah Dash with Us” and “Dan Dan Fiesta”. Last year concentrated on “Cazak Frock Suspenders”; the use of different aspects of garment pieces to enhance how someone looks. Designers showcasing in TFW 2013 included Trinidad’s Claudia Pegus, Heather Jones, and other noted fashion houses like Robert Young, Shaun Griffith Perez, JauPierre Resort, Hutch Beachwear and Lilah Designs. International designers included Francis Hendy (New York), Chandra Maharaj Swimwear (Miami), Sonia Noel (Guyana), CWAD Fashion (St. Lucia), House of Byfield (The Netherlands), Romero Bryan (United Kingdom), Pink Lemonade (Barbados) and Ms. Sim (Jamaica). None of these designers disappointed. The creations that hit the runway were strong, bold and imaginative, whilst reflecting vibrant Caribbean colours and prints. The focus on Tobago as a place of fashion has also led to a rise in the number of talented designers coming out of the island. Yesa Designs and Khrystal Designs, Sade Roxborough, Neonay Designs and Delia Alleyne all showed off their up-and-coming fashion lines at last year’s show. Delia Alleyne was propelled into the international spotlight for teaching Anya Ayoung-Chee to sew just four months before the former Miss Universe competed on the ninth series of Project Runway. While making its mark on the fashion scene, TFW is also keen to look to the future of fashion in the region. Students from the University of Trinidad and Tobago fashion programme unveil a collection each year, revealing the amazing wealth of talent in the young aspirants. There is also a series of workshops targeting existing entrepreneurs and those interested in becoming part of the industry. The hard work of the organisers of TFW, Designers United Stores, means the event is fast becoming one of the most anticipated dates to save on the regional fashion calendar, while cementing T&T’s reputation as a hothouse for fashion. It has also resulted in growth in the areas of tourism, event management, designer and model development, and trade and commerce. Many of the designers featured now have a foothold in boutiques in Trinidad and Tobago as well as the rest of the region. TFW 2014 will certainly not disappoint!
Weddings Balmy nights with spectacular sunsets over the Caribbean Sea, and days lazing on deserted, palm-fringed beaches. Nowhere in the Caribbean is more romantic for a wedding and honeymoon than Tobago. Tobago can cater for the most intimate of weddings, or larger affairs with family and friends. The island has boutique hotels and villas as well as larger resorts if your guest list is extensive. In many of the hotels, the ceremony and reception venue comes free. Accommodation is reasonably priced, meaning you can have the wedding you want, regardless of budget. For couples coming from Trinidad, Tobago offers excellent value. Guests can make a long weekend, allowing them to take in trips, explore the island or just relax. Alternatively, guests can fly back after an overnight stay if time is limited. They can also arrive by ferry with their own cars, although there are plenty of rental agencies. Tobago can cater to your exact wedding style. Many of the larger hotels hold formal weddings. Or if you’d rather something more intimate, then why not exchange vows on one of Tobago’s stunning beaches like Pigeon Point or in the tropical surroundings of the garden in your chosen villa or hotel. After the special day, the bride and groom need look no further for their honeymoon. You can choose to spend your newly married days together in the privacy of a villa or, if you prefer, in a hotel. Many offer excellent rates if you choose to marry there, too. Whatever the style of your wedding, book early. You can organise everything yourself or in conjunction with the hotel/villa. Alternatively, hire a professional wedding planner. Make travel arrangements well in advance, especially if your wedding falls on a public holiday. Make sure all the flight and ferry tickets and accommodation are booked before going firm on a date. Getting married in 2014 – look no further than Tobago. You’ll treasure the memories forever. By Katy Young
Photo: Inken Janning
Meet a Tobagonian
Arthur Stewart fisherman By Chris Morvan Photo: Aujourd’hui Studio
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he man sitting on the porch of his house just outside Scarborough has a notepad on his knees and is shuffling through pieces of paper, because he is preparing for a visit to the bank. He is wearing old, torn, knee-length shorts and is barechested, so he doesn’t look like the administrative type. Look around his garden and you see bits and pieces that give a clue as to what he does for a living. Ropes, things that float, pieces of wire mesh and metal frames. Arthur Stewart is a fisherman. He has been doing this for many years, and that includes the admin, because Arthur takes all aspects of his livelihood very seriously. As a younger man (he is now almost 70) Arthur had a job with the government, and the demands of a young family meant that he couldn’t just abandon that career and head out to sea where he felt he belonged. Instead, he did all the sums and projections, decided what kind of boat he needed, and went about securing the finance for it. After several years of investment and loss at the hands of unscrupulous people, he was in business, and he has continued to upgrade his equipment ever since. While villages such as Castara and Lambeau are the visible face of fishing, with roadside stalls where you can pick your specimen and have it scaled and gutted on the spot, there is a much more central site, too. Arthur’s boat is moored at a small fishermen’s section in Scarborough, in a corner, out of the way of the ferries and cargo boats that come barrelling into the bay. There is a market area with a canopy and stalls, and some regular customers go directly to the boats as they moor along the pontoons. Coming down the hill from Fort King George, you find the uptown car park on the left, and just below that, as the road turns sharp right, you turn left into Castries Street, a tiny, narrow hill, and there at the
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bottom is this hidden gem. There are parking spaces down there, too, and you know what Scarborough is like for traffic, so don’t tell anybody. Arthur is the skipper of a 50-foot fibreglass boat with an 8.1 litre engine: substantial enough for him to go anywhere in the waters around Trinidad and Tobago. “Yeah, I’ve been 45 or 50 miles out before,” Arthur says, but distance isn’t everything and where he goes is determined by a) where the fish are and b) where the sea is safe. Tobago’s Atlantic coast is relatively rough, while the Caribbean side is calmer. He catches mahi mahi, grouper, red snapper and shark, and he says there is a decent living in it. This is an industry that has suffered all over the world from excess, where too many are taken and stocks don’t have a chance to replenish. Tobago has its own problems, but Arthur says that overfishing isn’t one of them. One issue is the drilling for oil that brings in so much of Trinidad and Tobago’s revenue. Fish are not accustomed to the noise, the vibrations, and all the invasive technology that is part of the oil business, so they move away from areas that might have been their natural habitat. “The fishing industry does need protection by the government,” Arthur concedes, although he is clearly not the type to moan about it. The other problem for someone with a sizeable boat is finding the right crew, and Arthur has to rely on part-timers who have regular jobs that are considered more stable than fishing. As he enters his eighth decade, Arthur has no intention of retiring. His back and his knees, though, are protesting. After all the years of bracing to stay upright on heaving seas, the knees need replacing and his back is bowed. If that is the price of a life lived doing what you love, you sense he is happy with the arrangement.
Feature
I
f you spend time at Buccoo Bay, you’ll probably see groups of people on horses coming slowly down the road and wandering among the trees, and even wading through the sea. What you are seeing is either an activity called Being with Horses, or one known as Healing with Horses, respectively the commercial and therapeutic wings of an operation run by Veronika Danzer La Fortune and her husband, Lennon. Originally from Germany, Veronika visited Trinidad, met Lennon, fell in love with both him and the country, and settled in Tobago. A lover of horses, Veronika had taken part in equestrian events in her homeland, culminating in a lengthy spell with a horse-based travelling show. She noticed unhappily that there weren’t many horses here in Tobago. But one day, while walking in the rainforest, Veronika chanced upon a horse living wild. She set about befriending the creature, gradually forming a bond. She came to the point where she felt she could take the animal home to Buccoo, but no horses on the island meant no trailers, so they walked home together — a journey that took 23 hours. The horse, by then named Jennifer, was to be the first member of an equine team that now numbers six. All are “rescue” horses, having outlived their usefulness for previous owners. One is a retired racehorse. The thing that strikes you immediately on meeting Veronika and Lennon with the horses is that this is not a master-andservant relationship. Their philosophy is that the horses are the equal of people and we can learn as much from them as they can from us. ”When we approach a horse, we bow low and offer a hand,” Veronika says. If this sounds like new-age whimsy, you have to be there and experience it. The horses don’t have hard, heavy saddles, but just enough of a soft seat to give a sense of security. The bridles don’t have a metal bit that lets the rider assert his or her authority by causing discomfort. It’s very much a partnership: “The horse trusts you and you trust the horse,” as Veronika puts it. This almost spiritual experience led quite naturally to the idea of the horse as therapist for differently-abled people, many of them children, who come to enjoy the simplicity of gentle horse-riding. Many derive such confidence from the experience that they function better on the horse than they do otherwise. “We get children with ADHD, and autistic children are drawn to animals, especially horses,” Veronika explains. “It helps some with their motor skills, too. They learn how to do the greeting and it gives them a sense of responsibility and taking care. Horses don’t judge.” “We have a young girl who has to be strapped into her wheelchair. On a horse, she sits upright,” says Marjorie Linglet, who undertakes much of the administration. Marjorie is one of a host of volunteers who simply want to be part of the operation. Every year there is a summer camp in which children spend time in this serene environment. It’s so popular that this year they took over the goat-racing arena at Buccoo. For the differently-abled, Healing with Horses can be a priceless source of enjoyment and comfort. When I mention to Veronika that what springs to mind is the film The Horse Whisperer, she points out that, again, that presupposes that the humans are calling the shots. “More like the horse listener,” she says.
Photo: Inken Janning
Horses help heal body, mind, and soul By Chris Morvan
Photo: Chris Morvan
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SPORTS
Sports
Photos: Inken Janning
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“Callaloo Island”
The Holy Grail of Surfing By Keith Lewis
If you found the Holy Grail, would you tell anyone? Would you show your discovery to the world? Surfers spend most of their days searching and dreaming of the perfect wave in a warm, un-crowded tropical location. Their pursuit of perfection often results in discoveries coined “secret spots”, which eventually become “not-so-secret spots”. Generally, surfers can be a selfish group; they’re unwilling to share their surf spots, hesitant to share their waves, and would generally blow off any commitments for the sake of catching a few good rides. A non-surfer may find this very hard to understand, especially in a person who otherwise has outstanding values. One surf company coined the phrase that best describes this phenomenon: “Only a surfer knows the feeling!” That incredible feeling of wave riding is magnified when it takes place on a near-perfect wave, with only a handful of one’s friends in the water to witness and share it with. In the early 70s, some American surfers from the east coast of the US discovered the “Promised Land” in Tobago. Long before surfing took hold amongst the locals, this lucky group of foreigners set up camp at Mt. Irvine for the winter months, where they shared perfect, blue waves that broke over the colorful live coral reef with machine-like consistency of shape and form. Modern-day surfers can only dream of the bliss this crew experienced winter after winter. This group of core surfers had seen first-hand the effects of over-publicized surf breaks in the US, Hawaii and Australia, and they knew it was in their best interest to keep it to themselves. They did just that. Even years later, when the Caribbean was becoming a hot spot for surf exploration, islands like Puerto Rico and Barbados were taking all the glory. Tobago remained under the radar. In the late 70s, local Trinidadians picked up surfing and became regulars at Mt. Irvine, forging lifelong friendships with the group of foreigners who discovered it. In the 90s, South American surfers caught wind of the “secret spot”, and later produced an article calling it “Pelican Point”, a name that sticks to this day. In 2010, a group of American professionals visited Tobago on a monster swell and ran an online photo feature calling it “Callaloo Island”. Most of the international coverage of Tobago deliberately omits details to keep a bit of mystery about its location, and rarely actually names the island, much to the appreciation of the locals. After all, waves are a precious commodity, and surfers are a greedy bunch! That being said, any surfer who knows Mt. Irvine will tell you two things about surfing in Tobago. The first is that it has a natural way of regulating the crowds by the inconsistency of the waves. Even when you think the forecast will guarantee you surf, you may still get no waves, an experience referred to as a “body-slam”. And when you least expect it, she will bless you and just a handful of your friends with the surf session of a lifetime. The second thing they will tell you is that when you are here to surf Mt. Irvine, you will be treated like family, both in and out the water. As long as you give respect, you will get respect. At the end of a long day of surfing perfect waves, while you stand on the beach sharing stories of rides with your peers, watching an epic sunset, you will be assured that you have found the Holy Grail.
Photo: Inken Janning
Sports
tobago’s hilly terrain tests an athlete’s grit in the
tobago cycling classic By Chris Morvan
I
t’s the first day of the Tobago Cycling Classic. Canadian rider Trevor Connor is pumped up with adrenaline, waiting for the start. He’s ready, he’s been looking forward to this, he enjoys the event. Now he’s focused, about to burst into action. Suddenly, they’re off, and Connor hurtles away with that wiggle-wheeled effect that comes from a powerful sportsman exerting the full might of his physique on a flimsy frame. He’s away, he’s feeling good, he’s building speed. And then another rider crashes into him and he’s off, injured, his bike has a broken brake. Disaster when he’s hardly begun. Could that be the end? “Actually, I had a pretty mixed race that year,” Connor recalls. “The next day I won the time trial. Then the third day I was going well, making it to the top of the climbs first. But because I had no brake, they kept catching me on the descents.” To the leisure cyclist, Tobago’s terrain might seem rather daunting, with hills that have our thigh muscles aching at the very thought. But not so the professionals, who have been flocking to the island in recent years to take part in the Tobago Cycling Classic. Another man perfectly placed to tell us about it is Emile Abraham, a Tobagonian professional cyclist now based in Atlanta. A ten-time national road champion, Emile has won the Classic eight times. And not only that, but his father, Tony, was the original organizer of the event back in 1983. So, how does the race compare with other, better-known events? “It’s up there with any other stage race in the world,” Abraham says. “It is certainly the biggest event in Caribbean cycling. It’s covered by ESPN.” Apart from the hills, the two factors that combine to make the event particularly tough are the heat and the humidity. While Abraham may not be wild about the hills, he is unafraid of them. Cyclists tend to be either climbers or sprinters, depending on which category their muscles fall into. There is slow-twitch muscle fibre and the fast-twitch variety. The slow type produces the brute power to cope with the hills, while fast-twitch means
high speeds. “I’m not a climber,” Abraham says. “But I can climb.” The Tobago Cycling Classic, like many similar events, tests competitors in a variety of disciplines, so that personal strengths and weaknesses are evened out. The two-wheeled athletes, using machines that weigh as little as 15 pounds and who benefit from such recent advances as electronic gear-changing, start at Carnbee and fly around a first stage that takes them around Buccoo and Shirvan. Once they’re away, they’re desperate to get a good start, to come out of the first stage with some points and a good performance under their belt — and maybe the yellow jersey. With Tobago being such a beautiful place, does a racing cyclist get the chance to admire the view? Abraham says you can’t help it. “You go through places like the rain forest. The Tobago event is one of the best in the world for scenery, but is also one of the most gruelling. You suffer.” “It’s a unique event,” Trevor Connor says. “That’s what’s drawing everybody to it. In the standard event in North America you’ve got big, wide, well-paved roads and it makes it very safe, but they’re not always as exciting. The Tour of Tobago is an absolutely epic race. Climbs like you’ve never seen anywhere else. They’re steep, they’re twisty. There’s the heat to contend with. It’s one of those races you come down to where you don’t know what’s going to happen but you know you’re going to have some amazing stories.” What Connor is talking about here is a combination of the undulating terrain and roads that can be rough enough in a car, let alone on a skeletal racing machine. Unlike Emile Abraham, who knows the place like the back of his hand, Connor cannot afford to so much as glance at the scenery, because he needs to focus all his concentration on the road. “No, I can’t enjoy the view when I’m racing, but I always spend some time looking at it after the event. It’s a beautiful place.”
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Sports
A Marlin Madness By Sheldon Waithe
Photo: Brent Denoon
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thousand of anything is a lot, but when it is the weight of a fish caught in a prestigious fishing tournament, after an understandably long and draining battle, it deserves some special recognition. As such, Brendan Bernard and his fellow fishermen – Simon Bernard, Brendan Farfan, Peter Reid and Michael Rostant — on board the aptly named Predator, are still receiving kudos for their recordbreaking catch of a 1,005 lb Marlin at the Tobago International Fishing Tournament in Charlotteville, Tobago, in May 2013. Given that marlin weighing 1,000 lbs or more is a rarity anywhere in the world, 21-year old Bernard’s bounty garnered international attention, with websites marvelling at the catch, with the traditional photos of the crew next to the hung marlin. The YouTube video of Predator’s tournament makes compelling viewing; a few smaller catches early on, mixed with the hilarity of a good fishing lime, before the body language changes, with the inkling that there just may be something big at the end of the line. The entire crew, then working in unison, signalling to the driver when to throttle, waves forcing water onto the deck, with Bernard steadfast in his seat. Then there is the initial disbelief as the size of the fish becomes apparent when pulled alongside the boat, followed by the cheering and hugs as the scale of the achievement is realised. The “grander”, as such marlin are known in fishing circles, had indeed come to visit. Thus the Tobago Tournament celebrated its 18th birthday in some style, having become immensely popular with locals, and attracting anglers from eighteen nations — including North and South America as well as some from Europe — all eager to trawl the bountiful waters. What started as an unofficial fishing tournament off Pigeon Point, designed to provide some of the camaraderie and make best use of Tobago’s magnificent fishing conditions, has evolved into an eagerly awaited competition that has now been relocated to one of the island’s best fishing villages, Charlotteville, off Tobago’s north-eastern tip. Pigeon Point still hosts its own tournament, though, the TTGFA (Trinidad & Tobago Games Fishing Association ttgfa.com) Marlin Madness, held every April. This competition also attracts anglers from many shores, eager to take part in T&T’s largest fishing tournament, but also to do so with the best eco-friendly credentials in place. In keeping with TTGFA’s conservation ethos, fish caught and weighed are sold to Tobago processors for a nominal fee, allowing them make a tidy profit at the market. Also, all bait is bought from Tobago fish processors, creating a harmonious cycle that contributes to the estimated $500,000TT that Marlin Madness generates for the local economy. Other initiatives include the tag and release format for all billfish (blue and white marlin and sailfish) and the attendance of Fisheries Division staff at all competitions to keep a check on fish statistics. It is sportfishing and conservation working together beautifully. Given the importance of fishing to T&T’s culture, it’s not just praise that the Predator group are reaping; a Mercedes Benz B-Class prize was given to the crew who have now become the first to break the 1,000 lb mark (the previous record was 890 lb from the 2008 Marlin Madness tournament). Bernard himself is no newcomer to winning, having warmed up for his record marlin haul with the heaviest catch in the 2012 T&T Game Fishing Association’s Wahoo Tournament, held annually in Trinidad. At this rate of progression, who knows what he will catch in 2014?
Sports
Island Girl Sail Charters Come aboard Island Girl for an unforgettable cruise along the coast of Tobago, filled with snorkeling and sun tanning at secluded beaches, an open bar, snacks and our sumptuous buffet lunch. Or…sail into the sunset and rock to a sweet selection of Caribbean music on our idyllic sunset cruise, all the while served by our courteous and professional crew. This will be the most memorable day of your holiday. We also do private cruises. Plantation Beach Water Sports Ltd. Tel (868) 620-SAIL (7245) Email islandgirltobago@gmail.com Mobisite m.sailtobago.com Web www.sailtobago.com
Undersea Tobago Undersea Tobago was formed in 1997 and soon thereafter introduced PADI scuba experiences for kids aged six and over, and the use of Nitrox to Tobago. Our PADI instructors boast 10,000+ dives and their knowledge ensures a rewarding underwater experience. Explore Tobago’s reefs and wrecks with us, where personal attention meets adventure. Located at the Coco Reef Resort. Address C/o Coco Reef Resort and Spa, Store Bay Tel (868) 631-2626 Mobile (868) 680-4209 Email undersea@tstt.net.tt Web www.underseatobago.com
Frontier Divers Ltd. Frontier Divers Ltd, one of the only locally owned shops on the island and PADI dive facility, offers a wide range of undersea adventure options and PADI certification courses. Whatever your experience level, Frontier Divers can help you take it to the next one and push your diving frontier further. Our dive shop is located at Sandy Point Beach Club—an RCI resort on the southwest tip of Tobago—but Frontier Divers will pick up and drop off divers from any other location. Address Sandy Point Beach Club Crown Point, Tobago, West Indies Tel (868) 631-8138 Mobile (868)638-7210 Fax (868) 631-8138 Email dougdives@tstt.net.tt Web www.frontierdiverstt.com
Tobago Dive Experience Tobago Dive Experience, located in Speyside just off the world’s largest documented brain coral, is the oldest SCUBA operator in T&T. As a PADI 5-Star Instructor Development Centre, we take students from first level entry to instructor status in the ideal training conditions Tobago offers. Tobago Reef Masters our affiliate, is the dive operator of choice at the Magdalena Grand Beach Resort on the opposite side of the island. Together, we can offer you total Tobago. Tel 660-7234, 789 6538 Email tobagodiveexperience@gmail.com Tobago Dive Experience Tobago Reef Masters Address Speyside, Tobago Address Magdalena Grand Beach Web www.tobagodiveexperience.com Resort, Lowlands, Tobago Web www.tobagoreefmasters.com
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DIVING
Diving
Photo: Derek Chung
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T
he island of Tobago is home to the western hemisphere’s oldest protected rainforest; however, Tobago’s rich flora and fauna also extend beneath the ocean’s surface, with lush coral reefs and a multitude of species of fish to be found within a comfortable boat ride for the adventurous visitor. Tobago’s reefs offer a variety of diving opportunities to suit your interests, whether it may be drifting in currents along the reef edge, venturing to deeper depths, exploring shipwrecks deliberately sunk or tragically lost during WWII, thrilling to the phosphorescence encountered on a night dive, or capturing that image of an elusive subject. Many visitors have also taken their first fin kicks underwater here through introductory courses conducted by members of the Association of Tobago Dive Operators (ATDO). ATDO’s members are located around the island and provide guided dive charters to the already certified diver, as well as tuition to the international standards of PADI, while some members additionally offer courses by NAUI, SSI and BSAC. With introductory programs for participants as young as 6 years of age, a few hours of your vacation will provide an exciting, fun family activity that will create great memories for years to come! The second southernmost island in the Caribbean, Tobago’s diving visitors frequently comment that its marine life has tremendous variety and is noticeably larger as compared to that of other Caribbean islands. This may be largely due to the influences of the Orinoco River in Venezuela, which lies up-current, and which brings mixed blessings, as the underwater visibility averages 50 ft/15 m in the south and 80 ft/24 m in the north, not quite as clear as the waters of our northern neighbours, but not poor, either. The prolific marine life encountered here more than compensates for it. Dive trips are conducted as guided boat dives with small numbers of divers accompanied by one or two dive masters or instructors, which adds a personal touch; even more personalized attention is met when participating in tuition, as classes tend to be no more than 1–3 persons per instructor. At the northern tip of the island lies the sleepy village of Speyside, which has received much well-earned recognition for its vibrant reefs that surround Goat Island and Little Tobago. There are few that might not know that it is home to arguably the largest brain coral in the Caribbean Sea, if not the world. Measuring some 15 feet in diameter and rising 12 feet off of the sandy sea bed, it is truly a magnificent specimen and is the main feature of Keleston Drain, one of Speyside’s most popular dive sites. In close proximity, a set of triangular rocks protruding above the sea’s surface gives the Bookends its name, where silver tarpon hover like Zeppelins beneath the stormy white clouds of surf crashing overhead. This steeply sloping reef leading towards Little Tobago is a natural highway for turtles, sharks and other large marine animals like the majestic manta rays. A visit to Speyside would not be complete without a dive to Japanese Gardens, where the current sweeps you past colourful sponge growth and through the Kamikaze Cut; you’d be well advised to follow your guide’s instructions or risk missing the turn! Just over the hill is to be found Charlotteville, diving from which gains you easier access to sites at the Sisters and St. Giles Island, where interesting rock formations rule. Taking a trip through London Bridge can bring you together with barracudas, lobsters, turtles and sharks. Lesser known are the dive sites at the southern tip of Tobago, where the majority of hotels and restaurants are also
Diving
Photo: Stephen Broadbridge
located. Servicing the Grafton, Mt. Irvine and Scarborough areas, most of the dive boats depart from Crown Point, which places many of the sites within a 20-minute boat ride. One of the most popular is the wreck of the Maverick, which was purposely sunk in 1996 to create an artificial reef and playground for divers. Intact and upright, her bridge attracts schools of baitfish, creole wrasse and chromis, which in turn draw pelagic fish like bonito and amberjack. Keep an eye open for large cobia which are generally found playing hide and seek around her rudders. Divers interested in more historical shipwrecks can visit the remains of a ship believed to be lost around 1720 at Mt. Irvine Bay, where ballast stones and cannon lay strewn on the seafloor, or, if conditions allow, a visit to the SS Kioto, a British merchantman torpedoed during 1942. Mt. Irvine Wall (not a wall dive), is a sponge-encrusted rock reef with many nooks and crannies, and, as such, many guides prefer to slow the pace of the dive to better search for octopi, batfish, sea horses
and other critters. However, don’t forget to look around you, as turtles and eagle rays will also put in an appearance. For drift diving at its best, it would be hard to beat Flying Reef, a shallow 40–50 ft dive during which lobster, turtles, stingrays and nurse sharks are met while cruising along the straight reef edge. As the island is located only 11 degrees north of the equator, tidal changes are usually not taken into consideration for most dive sites in Tobago; if there’s current we simply “go with the flow”. But there are two signature dives that necessitate tidal consideration: Divers’ Thirst and Divers’ Dream; these sites are usually swept by extremely strong currents but when caught at slack water, just can’t be beaten for sheer quantities of fish, turtles, rays and sharks. So whether a qualified diver or first time bubble blower, be sure to contact one of the dive centres to start organizing your diving holiday today. By Derek Chung www.underseatobago.com
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Photo: Peter Sheppard
Photo: Stephen Broadbridge
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With its extensive reef systems, accessible rainforest and worldclass beaches, Tobago attracts a wide range of visitors, and there is accommodation to suit most tastes and budgets. There are several good hotels of up to 200 rooms, along with boutique resorts, smaller intimate hotels, private villa resorts, guesthouses, inns, eco-lodges and B&Bs. Most of the accommodation is located in the south-west of the island, on both the Atlantic and Caribbean coasts, the main tourist belt. For those who want complete peace, there are properties well off the beaten track where you can enjoy nature and truly personal service as you unwind. Wherever you choose to stay, you are guaranteed not to be far away from the sea, a beach, the forest, wildlife and tranquility. Most hotels offer all-inclusive packages or meal plans, while those who choose room-only or self-catering can choose their meals from an amazing array of affordable restaurants, supermarkets and vendors selling fresh local produce. As tempting as it might be to spend your entire holiday unwinding by the pool with a rum cocktail, it is well worth exploring the island to experience Tobago’s visual beauty and fantastic hospitality. The island has stunning bays, safe beaches, seas that range from turquoise to blue/green, refreshing waterfalls, forests teeming with wildlife, and quaint fishing villages. All of this and much more is waiting for you to discover them. Unlike many islands in the Caribbean, Tobago is not a massmarket tourism destination, which means its natural and accessible beauty and warm welcome are guaranteed to keep you returning to the island again and again. If you’re visiting in peak tourist season, you’re advised to book your accommodation and rental car as early as possible, as well as ferry tickets and/or flights. All accommodation providers have their own rates, booking systems and policies, so check these before you commit. It’s always advisable to have travel insurance cover to cope with the unexpected, and that way you can be worry-free and really relax in true Tobago style. By The Trinidad Hotels, Restaurants and Tourism Association (THRTA)
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CCOMMODATION Photo: seandrakes.com
Accommodation
The Villas at Stonehaven The Villas at Stonehaven is a boutique villa resort on the Caribbean coast of Tobago. Set on a hillside among tropical gardens adjoining a bird sanctuary, and with panoramic ocean views, the accommodation comprises 14 three-double-bedroom villas, each with a generous open verandah, and infinity pool. With full kitchens, barbeque areas, and your own housekeeper, these villas are perfect for family and friends to come together. Your home away from home includes The Pavilion Restaurant and Clubhouse. Open for lunch and dinner, and with its halfmoon infinity pool, it is a spectacular setting for weddings, corporate retreats and entertaining. Address The Villas at Stonehaven Black Rock, Tobago Tel (868) 639-0361 Fax (868) 639-0102 Email reservations@stonehavenvillas.com Web www.stonehavenvillas.com
Magdalena Grand Beach & Golf Resort The Magdalena Grand in Tobago has everything you want. This new oceanfront resort gives you a choice of swimming pools, patios, beach, spa, tennis, 5-star PADI dive centre, and championship golf. There are six different choices of bars and restaurants, and the dining experience couldn’t be better. The resort’s 200 rooms and suites have incredible views, and families love our kids’ club and playground, which entertain our smallest guests. Enjoy all the wonderful amenities of Magdalena Grand and escape from the everyday. Magdalena Grand Beach & Golf Resort has it all. Discover the “True Caribbean”. Address Tobago Plantations Estate, Lowlands, Tobago Tel (868) 660-8500 Fax (868) 660-8503 Email info@magdalenagrand.com Web www.magdalenagrand.com
Mount Irvine Bay Hotel & Golf Club The Mount Irvine Bay Hotel & Golf Club Resort offers peace and tranquility to both the discerning traveller and the avid golfer. Set amidst an old sugarcane and coconut plantation overlooking the Caribbean Sea, this 105-room resort has its own recently renovated beach restaurant and bar, Olympic-sized swimming pool with swim-up bar, an 18-hole international golf course, several bars, restaurants and a business office with internet services. Wireless internet access is also available in the hotel lobby and conference rooms. We offer a choice of air-conditioned superior rooms, suites or spacious garden cottages. Our expansive conference facility is ideally suited for conferences or business meetings and can also be sub-divided for smaller groups. Special offer packages available. Address P.O. Box 222, Scarborough, Tobago Reservations (868) 639-9674/5 Fax (868) 639-8800 Email mtirvine@tstt.net.tt Web www.mtirvine.com
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Accommodation
Blue Waters Inn The Blue Waters Inn is the best kept secret in Tobago. You are surrounded by the lush beauty of nature in a glittering bay just minutes from some of the most incredible dive spots in the Caribbean. This boutique, beachfront hotel recently underwent a complex renovation; all rooms were upgraded to a new level of understated luxury, along with a stunning infinity pool and more. We also have opened a brand new on-site PADI 5 Star dive center, Blue Waters Dive’n. A whole new look, with the same inherent magic.
Address Batteaux Bay, Speyside, Tobago, West Indies Tel (868) 660-4341, (868) 660-2583 Fax (868) 660-5195 Email bwi@bluewatersinn.com Web www.bluewatersinn.com
Johnston Apartments The Johnston Apartments in Tobago are magnificently located on Store Bay Beach, moments away from Crown Point International airport, nightclubs, shopping and the island’s best food. This vacation destination is ideal in every way. You can relax and unwind in our spacious one-bedroom apartments overlooking the sea. Each room is fully air-conditioned and self-contained, complete with a modern kitchen. Cleaning services are provided daily. Whilst staying at Johnston Apartments, you have the use of Crown Point Beach Hotel’s pool, restaurant, tennis court and conference facilities. The natural and man-made wonders will make your stay unforgettable. Address Store Bay, Tobago Tel (868) 639-8915, 631-5160/2 (TOBAGO) Tel (868) 627-1927 (POS) Fax (868) 631-5112 Email johnapt@tstt.net.tt Web www.johnstonapartments.com
Crown Point Beach Hotel Set on seven acres of beautifully landscaped grounds overlooking Store Bay, one of Tobago’s finest beaches. Within walking distance of the airport and the well-known Pigeon Point beach. Accommodation comprises studio, cabana and one-bedroom apartments. All rooms have ocean view, kitchenette, bathroom, hair dryer, cable television and telephone. The Chart House poolside restaurant and Sundowners bar cater for all your food and beverage requirements. Recreational facilities include swimming pool, tennis courts, table tennis and shuffleboard, and there are free Internet facilities for our guests. From our grounds you can walk down steps that lead to Store Bay beach. Tel (868) 639-8781/3 Fax (868) 639-8731 Email reservations@crownpointbeachhotel.com Web www.crownpointbeachhotel.com
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Accommodation
Surf Side Hotel Why more people settle for Surf Side: The nearby beaches – Store Bay and Pigeon Point; the surrounding restaurants and groceries; comfortable rooms, spacious kitchens, private baths, pools, cable TV, lavish porches; homely atmosphere; security; best location in Crown Point. Poolside villas. Similar accommodation at our associate company, PAR-MAY-LA’S INN, 53 Picton St., Newtown, Port of Spain. Tel: (868) 628-2008 Fax: (868) 628-4707.
Tel Weekdays: (868) 639-9702 Tel/Fax Nights and weekends: (868) 639-0614 Email surfside@mail.tt Web www.surfsidetobago.com
Papa Joe’s Place This elegantly furnished apartment building is a mere 5 minutes’ drive from the Arthur N. R. Robinson International Airport and 10 minutes from Scarborough. Guest accommodation features 10 air-conditioned, one-bedroom apartments with king, queen or single beds, fully equipped kitchenette, cable TV and free Wi-Fi. The quiet village setting makes us the ideal place to stay when visiting for business and/or pleasure.
Address Corner George & Guy Streets, Canaan, Tobago Reservations (868) 727-2563 Fax (868) 631-5673 Email papajoesplacetobago@gmail.com Web www.papajoesplace.com
Plantation Beach Villas Located on Tobago’s Caribbean coast, we are nestled in a grove of lush tropical trees, perched on a gently sloping hillside, leading down to the golden sands of the palm-fringed Grafton beach. The six luxurious Villas were designed in the charming colonial style of turn-of-the-century West Indies, with traditional gingerbread wooden fretwork adorning its windows and door openings, the Villas are spacious two-storey homes with three en suite bedrooms. With the emphasis on elegant comfort and the serenity of nature, we are the perfect place for guests who are looking for relaxation and to enjoy the beauty of Tobago. Address Stonehaven Bay Road, Black Rock, Tobago. Tel (868) 639-9377 Fax (868) 639-0455 Email plantationbeach@tstt.net.tt Web www.plantationbeachvillas.com
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Accommodation
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Accommodation
Blue Haven Hotel The colonial-style villa at Blue Haven is the setting for the romantic restaurant Shutters on the Bay. The restaurant overlooks palm-fringed Bacolet Beach and the excellent menus combine international gourmet cuisine with West Indian spices. Seasonal entertainment provided. “The Blue Haven Hotel has the best restaurant on the island. The kitchen produces modern fusion cuisine using local ingredients...”(Condé Nast Traveler).
Address Bacolet Bay, Tobago Tel (868) 660-7500 Fax (868) 660-7900 Email reservations@bluehavenhotel.com Web www.bluehavenhotel.com
Tropikist Beach Hotel & Resort Ltd.
Our Resort is harmoniously designed to bring comfort and nature together. The grounds of this 54-room hotel sit on the coastline of Tobago, ensuring a breath-taking ocean view from any location within the Resort. This Three-star Resort was founded in 1977 and is nestled on five acres of well-landscaped property. Facilities include two restaurants, two pools and a Jacuzzi. Tropikist is a preferred holiday destination. It is walking distance from surrounding beaches, restaurants, shops and five minutes from the Airport. All rooms are comfortably equipped with air-conditioning, cable TV, mini refrigerators, telephones, shower and baths, balcony or patio. Address Administration Office Suite 102, 21B Gaston Street, Montrose, Chaguanas, Trinidad Tel (868) 671-9143, 671-0631 Fax (868) 665-9236 Address Crown Point, Tobago, W.I. Tel (868) 639-8512-3 Email tropikistbeachhotel@mail.tt Web www.tropikist.com
Petit Point Cottage Situated in Tobago Plantations Golf Resort, this two-bedroom bungalow is just a few steps away from the ocean. The bungalow is air-conditioned, with full kitchen, flat-screen TVs, stereo sound system, Wi-Fi, pool, kayaks, laser sailing boat, etc. Your proximity to the sea offers great opportunities for sailing, shore fishing, and kayaking. Within minutes from your door you will also have access to an 18-hole golf course, the restaurants at the Magdalena Grand Beach Resort, a spa, and Gulf City Mall Tobago. This is the oceanfront bungalow you have been dreaming about!
Address #47 Tobago Plantations, Lowlands, Tobago Tel (868) 681-4741 Email duanekenny@hotmail.com Web www.ownersdirect.co.uk/caribbean/CB1351.htm
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Accommodation
Sunspree Resort Ltd. Sunspree Resort delights guests with luxurious accommodations, gourmet dining, and close proximity to some of Tobago’s exotic beaches. The resort is five minutes’ walk from Crown Point International Airport. This Caribbean getaway boasts 19 rooms, each offering a view of either our garden or our swimming pool. Different room and suite categories accommodate families of all sizes. Sunspree Resort is suitable for those who crave action and adventure, those interested in relaxation, or even those who are looking for romance. We even provide an idyllic paradise where all your wedding and honeymoon dreams can come true. Sunspree Resort has won a Certificate of Excellence 2013 from Trip Advisor. Address #40 Store Bay Local Road, Crown Point, Tobago. Tel (868) 631-5195/ 631-5196 Fax (868) 631-5195 Email sunspreeresort@gmail.com Web www.sunspreeresort.net
Sandy Point Beach Club The poetry and romance of the Caribbean reveal themselves in glorious abundance at Sandy Point Beach Club, the only timeshare resort in Trinidad & Tobago…a vantage from which to witness the eternal courtship between sun and sea. Forty-six well-appointed apartments, ranging in size from studios to fourbedroom units, are each designed and equipped to ensure an enjoyable, relaxing stay in Tobago, whether you plan to scuba dive, golf, explore Tobago’s rainforest reserve or just kick back and relax in the sun or in the quiet sanctuary of your holiday habitat. Address 68-70 Store Bay Local Road, Crown Point, Tobago Resort Tel (868) 639-0820/0877, 631-8975/ 8976 Fax (868) 631-8231 Resort Email resort@sandypointbeachclub.com Reservations Email reservations@sandypointbeachclub.com Web www.sandypointbeachclub.com
Kariwak Village Holistic Haven and Hotel Come to home to Kariwak… a green oasis within walking distance of the beach and the airport. We offer twenty four cosy rooms, a chlorine-free swimming pool, peaceful hammocks, an outdoor jacuzzi, beautiful gardens and one of the best restaurants on the island. Come home to yourself… with yoga, tai chi and meditation classes in the tranquility of our open-air ajoupa. Shiatsu, Swedish and Thai massage, Craniosacral Osteopathy, Acupuncture and other holistic therapies are all available onsite. We are also happy to host small, intimate retreats and events. Simple luxuries, offered with love, since 1982. Kariwak Village truly is where Tobago begins. Address Store Bay Local Road, Crown Point, Tobago Tel (868) 639-8442 Fax (868) 639-8441 Email info@kariwak.com Web www.kariwak.com
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Feature
E
very community has its “national dish”, which visitors have to try. In Tobago, the must-have dish is curry crab and dumplings. While every cook will make it in a slightly different way, the basics are the same. At Store Bay there’s an outdoor food area comprising small units, with everyone selling local fare. You’ll see Miss Jean, Miss Trim, Miss Joyce, Alma, Sylvie, Miss Esmie and Mammy Phyllis. We visited Miss Trim’s and spoke to Meisha, who took over the business from her mother, Greta Trim, who is now 78. Greta, in turn, learned the recipe from her mother, Rachelle, so it’s fair to say this is the real traditional deal. “I do it with my own little twist,” Meisha said. She and Greta make the curry crab at a commercial kitchen and Meisha brings it in every day. She gets the crabs from a supplier, cleaned and ready for use. The curry is made from a blend of spices, to which Meisha adds herbs including chadon beni, plus her “twist”, tumeric, which contributes to flavour and colour. Then comes coconut milk. The crab is steamed and added to the sauce and given a long simmer. The wholesome, slightly earthy flavour comes in part from the crab’s shell. The dumplings are made from flour, salt and water, and the Tobago style is to make them as round, flat patties, half an inch thick, and cut them into half-moon shapes. The crab is served in chunks of a few legs, so if you want to get at the meat you’re going to have to get your hands in there and break things open. Why is the dish so popular? Meisha thinks it’s because “it appeals to the senses. It smells good when it’s cooking, it looks good, and, of course, it tastes so good.” Perhaps this sales pitch is only to be expected from the latest in the line of family curry crab experts, who gained a degree in marketing and had no plans to enter the family business, until Greta declared herself ready for retirement. Then Meisha thought about it in modern business terms and realized she had an established brand right under her nose, so she decided to take it to the next level. She now has six full-time employees plus some part-timers (including her Mum). As for competition between all the Misses at Store Bay, she insists it’s not so much rivalry as a sense of community. “My Mum started it off at the same time as Miss Jean and Miss Esmie. When it’s busy, we all do well.” Naturally, Tobago’s hotels and restaurants like to give their menus a local flavour, so we spoke to one of the country’s top chefs, Debra Sardinha-Metivier, formerly executive chef at the Trinidad Hilton. And guess what? Her version is very similar to Miss Trim’s. The main difference is that she turns it into little dumpling parcels, like ravioli. Whether you do it that way or the traditional get-yourfingers-sticky way, try it while you’re here, note the basic recipe, and go home and make it yourself. That way you can always conjure up a little piece of Tobago whenever you feel like it.
Ladies of Miss Trim Photo: Chris Morvan
CURRY CRAB AND DUMPLIN’ Tobago on a plate
Photo: Sarah Carter
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Eating is a serious element of cultural life in Trinidad and Tobago. Fused from the best of China, Arabia, India, Africa and Europe, food in Tobago is varied, rich in local herbs and oriental spices, and always hearty. We are told that some of the finest international chefs envy the skill of Caribbean cooks when it comes to seasoning. That’s what we call a “sweet hand”! Add to that the freshness of local vegetables, the just-out-of-the-sea flavour of fish and seafood, and fruits that are not only sweet, but amongst the most nutritious in the world. Tobago has a tradition of street vendors, and you can safely stop at lunchtime for a roadside roti or doubles, a cool coconut water from the nut, and local BBQ’d chicken, meats or fish, served with coucou, calalloo or tasty macaroni pie. Store Bay offers the signature curried crab and dumpling, and other soul food. Elsewhere, you can find the perfect salad or mouth-watering sandwich, eat on the beach at your hotel, or find something new to taste at Pigeon Point. If you’re touring the island, you’ll find restaurants in the main villages along your chosen route. Food with a more international appeal is served at dinner in the larger hotels and scattered restaurants, mainly in the south-west, serving everything from authentic Italian, Chinese, and Arabic dishes, to the best of Tobago-style meats and — always — fresh fish and seafood with a Creole twist. And do finish with home-made ice cream, like the amazing pumpkin/ coconut or soursop. Unforgettable... as are local punches like peanut and sea moss and fresh-squeezed juices like tamarind, guava and sugar cane. Our local rums go well with everything, but you will also find a wide selection of wines in some restaurants. It’s best to make a reservation for dinner, and elegantly casual attire is expected. Most restaurants add 15% VAT and 10% service charge. International credit cards are widely accepted, as are British pounds and US dollars. Smaller establishments may expect cash, and exchange rates may vary. By The Trinidad Hotels, Restaurants and Tourism Association (THRTA)
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ESTAURANTS
Restaurants
The Pavilion Restaurant
Bouvardia
Sample Menu
Rainbow Salad A mixture of cabbage, carrots and sweet pepper served on a bed of lettuce and garnished with asparagus, cucumbers, tomatoes and beets.
Chef’s Signature Appetizer Fresh cuts of lobster, shrimps and fish in a delicate cream sauce, wrapped in a crepe. Juniper Duck Marinated, grilled duck breast with leeks, with whipped potatoes infused with smoked local cilantro and rosemary juniper oil. Lobster Medallions Medallions of fresh lobster poached in vermouth and drenched with a lemon butter sauce, with a scallop chive risotto Guava Passion Fruit Cheesecake Passion fruit and guava-infused buttermilk cheesecake topped with tart passion fruit, with a glaze of passion fruit and guava
Photo: Skene Howie
A Very Special Place At The Pavilion Restaurant, unrivalled views are a given. Enjoy our cocktails during happy hour, laze by the half-moon infinity pool, lunch or dine in a lush tropical environment. Delight in postcard-perfect vistas from The Pavilion’s terrace. Dress code: Elegantly casual. Open Tuesdays to Sunday. Lunch from 12:00 noon to 3:00 p.m. Dinner from 6:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. Happy Hour 5:00 p.m. to 7:00p.m. (Fridays until 8:00 p.m.) Visa or Mastercard accepted. Tel (868) 639-0361 Fax (868) 639-0102 Address The Villas at Stonehaven, Black Rock, Tobago Email reservations@stonehavenvillas.com Web www.stonehavenvillas.com Lunch, Dinner, Happy Hour, Functions
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Sample Menu
Chicken Supreme Boneless breast of chicken, stuffed with seasoned bread and deep fried. Curried Shrimp Madras Specially selected shrimp cooked in a subtle yet richly flavoured curry that compliments the shrimp perfectly. Stuffed Eggplant Eggplant sautéed with flavour peppers, onion, garlic and tomatoes, sprinkled with cheese and breadcrumbs, then baked.
Jade Bar and Grill An exciting and exquisite Tobago experience designed to meet your every social need. From a quiet meeting for a tasty meal to an exotic cocktail with live entertainment and music, with an activity for every day of the week, from karaoke to poetry, geared to meet every need. Fittingly located opposite Republic Bank on the Old Milford Road, Crown Point, it’s your first stop to relaxation after a long flight or the last stop to unwind before returning to the world of work. Feel free to make this your Tobago experience to remember.
Savour the enthusiasm of the rich, vibrant flavours of delicately prepared meals at Bouvardia. These freshly primed dishes are delicious and impeccable in taste. Bouvardia is committed to using the finest ingredients, thus creating the finest food. The staff’s passion complements every service provided, making Bouvardia one of the leading restaurants in the Southern Caribbean region. This oasis, nestled in Crown Point, Tobago, presents a naturefocused environment near the poolside, and sets the tone for every diner to leave feeling satisfied. “Experience Somewhere Different”.
Reservations (868) 639-9666/0652 Address Store Bay Local Road, Bon Accord, Crown Point Email rovanels@tstt.net.tt Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Open Daily
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
Tel (868) 631-0500, 631-0044 Address Old Milford Road, Crown Point, Tobago Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Bar
Restaurants
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Restaurants
Castara Retreats
Shutters on the Bay
Café Coco
scenic restaurant
Sample Menu
Sample Menu
Tobago Fisherman’s Soup Fresh picked garden lettuce served with chicken or fish strips, tropical fruits and balsamico marinade.
Chef De Cuisine Maurice Estwick “What The Chef Eats” Stew Beef Cubano – Served with Rice, Vegetables and Fresh Salad Grilled or Blackened Fish Jamaican Style Served with Parmesan Mash, Vegetables and Fresh Salad BBQ Rotisserie Chicken Served with a Black Bean Stew Chinese Style Pork Chop – with Stir-Fried Noodles Tempura Shrimp – with Rice and Garlic Sauce Char Grilled Lamb – Served with Basmati Rice, Eggplant Choka and a Curry Sauce Grilled Lobster Served with Rice, Vegetables and Fresh Salad
Starters Escabeche of fish, marinaded in spices with mini tortillas Tortellini of spinach and ricotta Mains Organic chicken Provencal with seasonal vegetables Grilled fish of the day with mango salsa Aubergine involtini with salad and basmati rice Desserts Rich chocolate cake with home-made ice cream Tobago Cocoa Plantation chocolate mousse
Baked potatoes with Gulf shrimp skewer in garlic sauce. Flying fish roulade on pickled red cabbage. Sesame-crusted chicken breast on sweet potato mousse and terragon-mustard sauce. Lobster à la Shutters on the Bay with vegetables, calypso rice and garlic lemon butter. Catch of the Day grilled with herb and lime, sautéed potatoes and patchoi.
Sample Menu
Island curried chicken with basmati rice and mini-roti. Stir-fried wok noodles Asian-style with vegetables and soy sauce. Dine on an open terrace overlooking the Bay of Castara, with stunning views of the beach and rainforest beyond. Our restaurant recently opened to rave reviews, and has quickly established itself as the place to visit for quality food in a beautiful setting. The perfect place to pause during the day for a snack, lunch or a cool drink, and later for sunset cocktails and dining on our pagoda terrace. We take pride in sourcing local ingredients, from the fish taken fresh each day from the bay to the vegetables and fruits harvested from our organic gardens. Drinks and snacks from Wed - Sun 10:30 a.m. Lunch: Wed - Sun from 12 noon Dinner: every evening from 6:00 p.m. Tel (868) 766 1010 Address Northside Road, Castara Email Dine@CastaraRetreats.com Web www.CastaraRetreats.com Lunch, Dinner
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Coconut ice crepe served with sautéed pineapples. Caramelised plantains with rum & raisin ice cream. The colonial-style villa at romantic Blue Haven Hotel is the setting for the restaurant, Shutters on the Bay, overlooking Bacolet Beach. The excellent menus combine international gourmet cuisine with West Indian ingredients and spices and often feature fresh fish, lobster and crayfish. Dinner menus are changing on a daily basis.
Tel (868) 660-7500, 660-7400 Fax (868) 660-7900 Address Bacolet Bay, Tobago Email reservations@bluehavenhotel.com Web www.bluehavenhotel.com Available for Weddings, Functions
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Café Coco is the most spectacular restaurant and bar in the region, with seating for 200. It features waterfalls, fountains, marble bathrooms and hand-painted tiles, all synchronized to create an exotic atmosphere of charm and beauty amidst impeccable landscaping. Our chefs, from their open kitchen, offer a wide range of reasonably priced dishes, carefully selected to excite every palate. We offer a perfect venue for weddings, graduations, birthday parties and other group functions. Reservations (868) 639-0996 Fax (868) 639-8574 Address First Left off Pigeon Point Road, Crown Point, Tobago Email cocoreef-tobago@trinidad.net Web www.cocoreef.com Lunch, Dinner
Restaurants
Pembois Restaurant & Terrace All Day Dining Main Restaurant Sample Menu Starters The Grand Beef Tartar Fresh tenderloin with capers, onions, paprika and a creamy chandon beni sauce. Served with grilled hops roll Smoked Salmon Tower with a “Tobagonian Twist” With homemade guacamole and crispy melba toast Entrées Pan-Seared Fillet of Red Snapper Grand combination of pan-seared fillet of red snapper with a ragout of Tobago lobster and island vegetables, served with a mango salsa Char-Grilled Rib-Eye Steak Served with tempura purple mashed potato balls on a red wine reduction flavoured with dark Tobagonian chocolate Desserts Warm Chocolate Fondant Crowned with soursop ice cream Island Grapefruit Parfait Served with a Tobago nut cake
Kali’na Restaurant
Salaka Grill
Ocean front and poolside restaurant
Caribbean Fusion upscale dining
Sample Menu
Sample Menu Starters Gravlax with a Caribbean twist Thin slices of home–made marinated Atlantic salmon, combined with the flavours of our unique pumpkin & pineapple chutney, served with pumpernickel bread. Crispy Raviolis, filled with Tobago Lobster Deep-fried delights with Italian origin, brought to perfection with Tobago lobster, a seasoned Asian jus and thin strips of baby bok choy. Entrées Braised Lamb Shank “Mint & Orange” Tower of slices of our famous braised lamb shanks, flavoured with fresh mint and oranges, delicate pickled onions and succulent mashed potatoes with truffle, served with assorted vegetables. Bacon-Wrapped Chicken Breast Sorrel glazed, juicy breast of chicken, wrapped in bacon, served with short-grain risotto rice with dice of pumpkin and sautéed Shitake mushrooms. Desserts Tobago Rum Cream & Chocolate Chip Parfait with raspberry sauce.
This restaurant offers indoor and outdoor seating on the pool terrace. Pembois is the Patois word for breadfruit, which came to Tobago in the 18th Century…a perfect morning start to the day, with our renowned Pembois Breakfast Buffet. And in the evenings, discover a new and different dining experience every night, from a Table d’hôte menu to the Grand Tobago Buffet, Pan Asian Delights, The World of International Cuisine, or our Amerindian BBQ.
Discover the unique Caribbean Fusion cuisine in an upscale and romantic environment in one of the top restaurants in Tobago... traditional Caribbean or Creole recipes prepared in a modern European way, as well as dishes from all over the world, refined with typical Caribbean ingredients. Upscale Dining : 6:30 p.m. – 10:30 p.m. Wednesdays closed. Reservations required.
Tel (868) 660-8500 Fax (868) 660-8503 Address Tobago Plantations Estate, Lowlands, Tobago Email info@magdalenagrand.com Web www.magdalenagrand.com Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Tel (868) 660-8500 Fax (868) 660-8503 Address Tobago Plantations Estate, Lowlands, Tobago Email info@magdalenagrand.com Web www.magdalenagrand.com Available for Dinner
Snacks and sandwiches Italian Pasta Salad Herbed roasted chicken, mozzarella cheese, roasted peppers, spinach & honey balsamic dressing. Caprese Focaccia Buffalo mozzarella cheese, tomatoes, arugula and pesto on a toasted herbed focaccia. Island Shrimp Cocktail Tobago cocktail sauce, pineapple lime salsa, crispy lettuce. West Indies Wrap Spiced chicken breast, tomato, crispy lettuce, scallions, cilantro & mango chutney. Beverages are served all day, along with an a la carte snack menu. Enjoy great sandwiches, wraps, and salads in our poolside restaurant overlooking the Atlantic waves, completely unique among other restaurants in Tobago. In the evening, Salaka turns into a Romantic Seafood Grill with ocean-front dining and no menus except for the Chef’s daily recommendation from the chalkboard. Beverage Service: 10:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m. Food Service: 11:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. Dinner Service: 6.30 p.m. – 10.30 p.m.
Tel: (868) 660-8500 Fax (868) 660-8503 Address Tobago Plantations Estate, Lowlands, Tobago Email info@magdalenagrand.com Web www.magdalenagrand.com Lunch, Dinner
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Restaurants
The Pasta Gallery
El Pescador Seafood Restaurant
Sample Menu Main Course Baked Meat Lasagne A hearty choice, baked lasagne with Bolognese sauce, cheese, and béchamel. Chicken Alfredo Chicken served over fettuccine in a creambased sauce with parmesan cheese. Linguine al Pesto Basil, olive oil, parmesan cheese, garlic and nuts. Shrimp Fettuccine Sautéed shrimp served over fettuccine with tomato sauce. Dessert Tiramisu, Cheesecake, Gelato. Gluten free and whole wheat pastas available
Sample Menu Starter Shrimp Taragon TT$50 Jumbo shrimp in a glass with salsa and homemade sauce. Main Course El Mexicano Fish TT$125 Fish fillet baked in a jalapeño and white wine reduction. Sunday School Steak 165 TT$ 8 oz Omaha Steak grilled to your choice with homemade steak sauce or chili tamarinds. Nylon Pool Delight TT$250 A seafood platter with shrimp, squid, scallops, clams and fish.
Shore Things Café & Craft
Daytime verandah café and craft shop Sample Menu Caribbean Crab Backs A delightful blend of crabmeat and local herbs in a delicate crab shell Taste of Tobago Fried flying fish or baked chicken with creole sauce served with vegetable rice, stewed peas and salad Bacon and Mushroom Quiche Always a favourite Vegetarian Pizza Whole wheat base dressed with tomato sauce, grilled eggplant, roasted bell peppers, tomatoes, onions, broccoli and cheese. Coconut Cream Pie A sweet pastry shell filled with coconut custard, topped with a light whipped cream… decadent Creole Rum Punch “1234 easy does it”…spiced with nutmeg and Angostura Bitters.
Superbly located on the way to Pigeon Point, The Pasta Gallery features a unique fusion of restaurant and art gallery. Start with a refreshing salad or crispy bruschetta then savour homemade sauce simmered to perfection over a hearty serving of pasta. While enjoying the “trattoria” experience, don’t forget to take in the local art that surrounds you. Come and relax in our cool yet cozy atmosphere and relish the simple art of good food. Feel free to call ahead to place your takeaway order.
Tobago’s No. 1 beachfront restaurant, with excellent food and a fantastic view. Sit back, relax, converse and watch the sun rise and set over Buccoo Bay. Our professional staff will cater for your every need. Try one of our refreshing cocktails on the sun terrace. Sample the delicious fresh seafood in our open-air restaurant, and enjoy the catch of the day from the local fisherman at the jetty in front of the restaurant.
Tel (868) 727-8200 (PASTA-00) Address Pigeon Point Road, Crown Point Web www.pasgal.mobi Facebook www.facebook.com /thepastagallery Dine in, Takeaway, Bar
Reservations (868) 631-1266 Address Miller’s Guesthouse #14 Miller Street, Buccoo Point, Tobago Head Chef Leonardo Larios Web www.leos-pescador.com Free Wi-Fi access Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
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Come and experience the gracious hospitality of Shore Things Café & Craft. Select a light snack or not-so-light lunch in our casual outdoor café overlooking the Atlantic. Browse a selection of local handicraft while sipping a cool drink, serenaded by the sounds of birds and waves. Our breads and pastries are baked fresh on site. Come and indulge…naturally. Mon – Fri 11:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m. Reservations recommended Dec – April
Reservations (868) 635 1072 Address 25 Milford Road, Lambeau, Tobago Email shorethingstobago@yahoo.com Web www.shorethingstobago.com Lunch, Tea
Restaurants
Ciao Café & Ciao Pizza
The Seahorse
Sample Menu
Sample Menu
Tradizional Cucina Italiana
Creole Crab Cakes Seafood sauce, red pepper coulee. Bruschetta Trio – Tomato, fennel, feta. Smoked Salmon, horseradish cream, capers. Chicken liver pate, candied orange peel. Lobster Thermidor – Classic sauce of cheese, white wine, cream and snipped chives. Blackened fillet of Grouper – Wilted greens, mashed potato, warm lemon herb vinaigrette, chili oil. Tournedos Seahorse – 10 oz Tenderloin steak, roast garlic mashed potatoes, seared fois gras. Roast shallots. Red wine sauce. Slow Braised Pork Belly – Crackling, spicy shrimp & madeira sauce.
A variety of pastas and antipasti Authentic Italian pizza Homemade desserts A TASTE OF ITALY IN THE HEART OF TOBAGO Come enjoy the view and indulge yourself at this authentic Italian Gelateria in the heart of Scarborough. We offer two experiences at one location — Ciao Café has a full bar featuring international beer, and offers freshly made espresso. Why not try one of our freshly made Panini sandwiches made in our Italian Deli and finish with a dessert and caffè? At Ciao Pizza you can explore our menu of traditional pizzas, pastas, salads and Italian antipasti and more. Finish your meal by tasting any one of the 20 flavours of our very own artesian-made gelato. Be sure to ask about our range of authentic Italian wines available – but keep checking our stock, as we have only what’s good and in season! We accept local and international credit cards, Euro and US currency. Opening Hours: Ciao Café: Monday – Thursday from 9:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.; Tuesdays from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (seasonal).; Friday to Saturday from 9:00 a.m. to midnight and on Sundays and Public Holidays from 4:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. Ciao Pizza: open Monday to Saturday from 11:45 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. for lunch; from 6:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. for dinner; and on Sundays and public holidays for dinner only. Closed on Tuesdays. Reservations (868) 635-2323, 639-3001 Address Burnett Street, Scarborough, Tobago Lunch, Dinner, Takeaway
Restaurant & Bar
Sample Menu
Intimate al fresco dining under the stars, a gentle breeze, the soothing, eternal sound of the surf. Fabulous food before you, leatherback turtles nesting on the beach. It’s no wonder the Seahorse Inn is Tobago’s premier beachside fine dining restaurant. We were acclaimed best value small inn & restaurant in leading UK publications the Daily and Financial Times, Evening Standard, Express, plus Options and Wedding & Home magazines. Open for dinner 6:00 p.m. daily Tel: (868) 639 0686 Address Grafton Beach Road Black Rock, Tobago Email seahorseinntobago@gmail.com Web www.seahorseinntobago.com We Cater for Weddings & Functions on or off premises
Café Havana Caribbean Fish Chowder – A local favourite served with black rum and pepper sauce. Seafood Salad – Grilled shrimp and the day’s fish catch with cucumber, tomato, onions and crisp fried plantains tossed with a creamy vinaigrette. Jerk Chicken – Breast of chicken stuffed with button mushrooms, baked in delicious jerk seasonings, served with cassava au gratin. Cuban-Inspired Tenderloin – 10 oz tenderloin seasoned and grilled to perfection with a spicy Cuban bean salad. Fresh Catch and Pasta Specials – created daily Espresso and Housemade Desserts
Café Havana is one of Tobago’s newest restaurant and cocktail bars, characterising the Caribbean experience with relaxing outdoor dining and a cosy lounge bar. The restaurant has a faithful group of regular diners, as Chef Cesario prepares all the food with great care to ensure consistently delicious meals. The menu is a fusion of mouth-watering dishes, like curried jumbo shrimps and Churrasco steak, with local flavours that transcend many cultures. This picturesque location also offers a romantic setting for weddings. Café Havana can organise all the details for the dream ceremony and reception, from a wedding official and flowers to a wedding cake. Tel (868) 639-2357 / (868) 639-3551 Address 72 Bacolet Street, Scarborough, Tobago Email dine@cafehavana.org Web www.cafehavana.org Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner - EVERY DAY
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Hotels & Guest Houses in Tobago HOTEL Location TELEPHONE E-MAIL WEBSITE International Access Code (868) ADE’S DOMICIL Scarborough 639-4306, 686-5831 ades@tstt.net.tt www.adesdomicil.de ADVENTURE ECO VILLAS Plymouth 639-2839/797-2940 adventur@tstt.net.tt www.adventure-ecovillas.com ANN’S VILLAS Scarborough 639-4838, 639-5200, anroh@tstt.net.tt www.mytobago.info/apartment/ 759-5886 ann-villa.htm ARCHER’S PLACE Scarborough 639-3387, 315-8525 pmcarcher@yahoo.com www.mytobago.info/guesthouse/ archers-place.htm ARNOS VALE APARTMENTS Plymouth 639-1362, 784-1974 victor@arnosvaleapartments.com www.arnosvaleapartments.com ARNOS VALE VACATION APARTMENTS Plymouth 639-2839, 797-2940 adventur@tstt.net.tt www.adventure-ecovillas.com ___ ARTHUR’S BY THE SEA Crown Point 639-0196 nosajarta@gmail.com BACOLET BEACH CLUB Bacolet 639-2357 info@bacoletbeachclub.com www.bacoletbeachclub.com BANANAQUIT APARTMENTS Crown Point 639-9733 banana@tstt.net.tt www.bananaquit.com BELLEVISTE APARTMENTS Crown Point 639-9351 bellevis@tstt.net.tt www.belleviste.com BENN’S APARTMENTS Signal Hill 660-0006, 620-6011 unis@bennsapartmentrentals.com ___ BEVERLY’S OASIS SUITES Lowlands 639-7928 beverlys@gradstt.com / www.beverlysoasissuites.com info@beverlystobago.com Hampden, Lowlands 639-0663 marly@bismarkiaapts.com www.bismarckiaapts.com BISMARCKIA APARTMENTS BLUE HAVEN HOTEL Bacolet Street 660-7400, 639-7500, bluehaven@bluehavenhotel.com www.bluehavenhotel.com 639-7600 reservations@bluehaven.com BLUE WATERS INN Speyside 660-2583 bwi@bluewatersinn.com www.bluewatersinn.com Buccoo 639-7321, 684-6049 mkcrentals@yahoo.com www.mytobago.info/ BONNAVILLA TOO apartments/bonavilla-too.htm CANOE BAY BEACH RESORT Lowlands 631-0367 canoebay@yahoo.com www.canoett.com CASTARA RETREATS ECO RESORT Castara 660-7701 relax@castararetreats.com www.castararetreats.com CHOLSON CHALETS Charlotteville 639-8553 cholsonchaletsltd@yahoo.com www.cholsonchalets.com COCO REEF RESORT & SPA Crown Point 639-8571 cocoreef-tobago@trinidad.net www.cocoreef.com CROWN POINT BEACH HOTEL Crown Point 639-8781-3 reservations@crownpointbeach www.crownpointbeach hotel.com hotel.com CUFFIE RIVER NATURE RETREAT Runnemede 660-0505 cuffiriv@tstt.net.tt www.cuffie-river.com Crown Point 639-8521, 639-7060 goldenthistle@tstt.net.tt www.goldenthistlehotel.com GOLDEN THISTLE ___ GRANPARK RESORT LTD. Lambeau 639-9873 granpark@tstt.net.tt GREEN HAVEN COTTAGE Les Coteaux 660-0394, 356-8398, greenhavencottage@yahoo.com www.greenhavencottage.com 716-3666 HALF MOON BLUE Bacolet 639-3551 holidays@halfmoonblue.com, www.halfmoonblue.com info@bacoletbeachclub.com HAWSBILL HOUSE Black Rock 718-4306 liz@tobagobeachvillas.com www.tobagobeachvillas.com/ hawksbill.htm ___ HOPE COTTAGE GUEST HOUSE Scarborough 639-2179 hcghtobago@hotmail.com ___ IRON HILL GUEST HOUSE Whim 635-0725 pt6607@gmail.com ISLAND INVESTMENTS Shirvan Road 639-0929, 639-9901, islreal@tstt.net.tt www.islreal.com 639-9297 ___ J&G TROPICAL APARTMENTS Bon Accord 759-9776 persischarles@tstt.net.tt JOHNSTON APARTMENTS Store Bay 639-8915, 631-5160-2 johnapt@tstt.net.tt www.johnstonapartments.com JONESY’S COUNTRY HAVEN INN Pembroke 660-4933, 377-4401 paradisevilla@tstt.net.tt www.mytobago.info/apartments /jonesys-country-haven-inn.htm ___ K’S KONDO’S Bon Accord 361-0299 kskondos@gmail.com KARIWAK VILLAGE HOLISTIC Crown Point 639-8442 kariwak@tstt.net.tt www.kariwak.com HAVEN AND HOTEL KING SOLOMON’S MINE Plymouth 639-2545, 769-4282 kingsolomon@tstt.net.tt www.tobagobedandbreak fastassociation.com/king_solomons_mine.htm ___ LEN & LEONA HOLIDAY HIDEOUT Black Rock 639-3240 blackrock10550@yahoo.com LESVILLE MAGDALENA GRAND BEACH RESORT MAHOGANY VILLAS MAN-O-WAR BAY COTTAGES
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Canaan 639-0629, 786-8267 Lowlands 660-8500 P. O. Box 5704, 718-4306 Dutch Fort, Scarborough Charlotteville 660-4327
Ins & Outs of Trinidad and Tobago
orv@tstt.net.tt www.lesvilletobago.com info@magdalenagrand.com www.magdalenagrand.com enquiries@TobagoBeachVillas.com www.elegantvillasoftobago.com mowbc@tstt.net.tt
___
Hotels & Guest Houses in Tobago HOTEL Location TELEPHONE E-MAIL International Access Code (868) MARIES COTTAGES Mt. Irvine Development 639-0233 MILLER’S GUEST HOUSE Buccoo Point 660-8371 themillers1@hotmail.com MJ’S HOLIDAY VILLAS Bon Accord 765-8602 mjvilla@rogers.com MT. IRVINE BAY HOTEL & GOLF CLUB Mt. Irvine 639-8871-3 mtirvine@tstt.net.tt NATIVE ABODE BED & BREAKFAST Bon Accord 631-1285, 631-0228 stay@nativabode.com NICOVILLE Charlotteville 639-8553 cholsonchaletsltd@yahoo.com PALM HAVEN Patience Hil 660-7307 kayocallaghan@hotmail.com PAPA B’S INN Carnbee 631-0838 papabstobago@hotmail.com PAPA JOE’S PLACE Canaan 632-4608, 639-9213 papajoes@tstt.net.tt PETIT CAREME VILLA Mt. Irvine 632-4608, 639-9213 merilee@petitcareme.com PETIT POINT COTTAGE #47 Tobago 681-4741 duanekenny@hotmail.com Plantations, Lowlands PLANTATION BEACH VILLAS Black Rock 639-9377 plantationbeach@tstt.net.tt RAINBOW NATURE RESORT Lure Estate, 660-4755 reservations@therainbownature C/o Goldsborough resort.com TOBAGO PLANTATIONS RESORT Lowlands 631-1054 rentals@tobagoplantations.com REX TURTLE BEACH P.O. Box 201 639-2851 res.tbhtab@candw.lc Courland Bay, Scarborough Bon Accord 639-9666 rovanels@tstt.net.tt ROVANEL’S RESORT SANDY POINT BEACH CLUB Crown Point 639-0820, 639-0877 reservations@sandypointbeach club.com SANDY’S BED & BREAKFAST Scarborough 639-2737 sandy@tobagobluecrab.com, daisysflowers@hotmail.com Black Rock 639-0686 seahorseinntobago@gmail.com SEAHORSE INN STORE BAY HOLIDAY RESORT Crown Point 639-8810 store_bay@hotmail.com SUGAR MILL SUITES P.O. Box 159, 631-1054, 639-8000 rentals@tobagoplantations.com (TOBAGO PLANTATIONS LTD) Scarborough SULLIVAN’S COURT P.O. Box 136, 639-0891 sullivanscourt_tobago@live.com Scarborough SUNRISE GETAWAY Canaan 639-0089, 639-7106, yasunrise@yahoo.com 761-1349 SUNSHINE HOLIDAY APARTMENTS LTD. Bon Accord 639-7482, 639-7495 sunapt@tstt.net.tt SUNSPREE RESORTS Crown Point 631-5196 sunspreeresort@gmail.com SURF SIDE HOTEL Crown Point 639-0614 reservation@surfsidetobago.com TARA’S BEACH HOUSE P.O. Box 129, 639-1566 tarasbeachhouse@mail.tt San Fernando, Trinidad THE HUMMINGBIRD HOTEL Crown Point 635-0241 linda@hummingbirdtobago.com THE PALMS VILLAS RESORT Signal Hill Old Road, 635-1010 info@thepalmstobago.com P.O. Box 1070, Bon Accord THE VILLAS AT STONEHAVEN Black Rock 639-0361 stonehav@tstt.net.tt TOBAGO BEACH VILLAS P. O. Box 5704, 718-4306 liz@tobagobeachvillas.com Dutch Fort, Scarborough TOP O’ TOBAGO VILLAS Plymouth 639-3166 camille@topotobago.com TOP RANKING HILLVIEW GUESTHOUSE Speyside 660-4904, 682-3622 toprank00@yahoo.com TOUCAN INN & BONKERS Crown Point 639-7173, 639-0332 bonkers@trinidad.net 639-8993 TROPIKIST BEACH HOTEL & RESORT Crown Point 639-8512-3 tropikistbeachhotel@mail.tt TURTLE VIEW GUEST HOUSE Black Rock 639-1435 reservations@turtleview.com j_mwilliams20@hotmail.com VILLA BEING Arnos Vale 676-6165 info@being-tobago.com VILLA ROSE OF SHARON APTS. Bon Accord 631-8793 norasinanan@live.com VILLAS OF TOBAGO P.O. Box 498, 639-9600 villas@tstt.net.tt Scarborough VIOLA’S PLACE Lowlands 639-9441 violas@tstt.net.tt
WEBSITE colin.a.peterson@gmail.com www.maries-cottages.com www.millersguesthouse.com www.mjaysvillas.com www.mtirvine.com www.nativeabode.com www.cholsonchalets.com www.palmhaven.com www.papabstobago.com www.papajoesplace.com www.petitcareme.com www.ownersdirect.co.uk/ caribbean/CB1351.htm www.plantationbeachvillas.com www.therainbownature resort.com www.tobagoplantations.com www.rexresorts.com www.rovanelsresorttobago.com www.sandypointbeachclub.com www.tobagobluecrab.com www.seahorseinntobago.com www.storebayholidays.com www.sugarmilltobago.com www.sullivanstobagohome.com
___ www.sunshine-apartmentstobago.com www.sunspreeresorts.net www.surfsidetobago.com www.tarasbeachhouse.com www.hummingbirdtobago.com www.thepalmstobago.com www.stonehavenvillas.com www.tobagobeachvillas.com www.topotobago.com www.toprankingtobago.com www.toucan-inn.com www.tropikist.com www.turtleview.de www.being-tobago.com ___ www.villasoftobago.com www.violasplaceapthotel.com
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Index A/B
Abraham Tobago Realty 158 Acajou Hotel 92 Adam’s Bagels & Specialty Breads 132 Aioli Restaurant 131 Angelo’s Italian Restaurant 126, 127 Apsara Restaurant 130 Aria Lounge 104 Arnim’s Framing Solutions Co. Ltd. 55 Art Gallery 55 Asa Wright Nature Centre 98 Asian Cuisine Catering Services 130 Asian Cuisine Ltd 130 Avenue Montaigne 44 Bambu 49 Bar Code 163 Blue Haven Hotel 184, 185 Blue Waters Inn 180, 181 Bois Cano 93 191 Bouvardia Restaurant 122, 123 Burger King
C/D
Café Coco 192 Café Havana Restaurant 195 Cara Suites Hotel & Conference Centre 94, 95 Caribbean Discovery Tours Ltd 68 Caribbean Estates, Lands & Villas 158 Castara Retreats Scenic Restaurant 192 Chaguaramas Development Authority (CDA) 77 Ciao Café & Ciao Pizza 195 Coco Reef Resort 183 Cold Stone Creamery 128, 129 Courtyard by Marriott Inside Cover, 90 Crown Point Beach Hotel 180, 185 Dive Experience 173 Dr João Havelange Centre of Excellence 97 Dream Ultra Lounge & Bar 105
E/F/G
Eileen Seitz El Pecos Grill El Pescador Seafood Restaurant Emerald Designs & Event Services Ltd. Excellent City Centre Excellent Stores Face and Body Clinic Limited Fashion Optics Limited Fernandes Fine Wines & Spirits Flavours Restaurant Gabby Tommy Gem Shop
H/I/J
54 133 194 111 17 49 63 47 50 116 54 46
H Williams Bookstore Limited 23 Hakka Restaurant & Bar 128, 129 Hallmark 23 Hilltop Restaurant 131 Hilton Trinidad and Conference Centre 92, 93 Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites 94, 95 Hollywood Grill 124, 125 Hong Wing & Sons Ltd. 13 House of Jaipur (Indian Lifestyle Boutique) 43 114 House of Jaipur (Tearoom) Hyatt Regency Trinidad 62, 90, 91, 114 68 In Joy Tours Inna Citi Place 94 Irie Bites 133
Island Days 154 Island Girl Sail Charters 173 Island Investments 159 J-ZZ’s International Steak House Ltd. 120, 121 Jacqueline Guzman 53, 54 Jade Bar & Grill 165, 190, 191 Jade Monkey Casino 165 Jason Nedd 55 Johnston Apartments 180 Joanna Humphrey Aldred 2, 137, Tobago Cover
K-S
Kaizan Sushi 124 Kali’na Restaurant 193 Kalloo’s Group 68 Kapok Hotel 92, 93, 118, 119 Kariwak Village Holistic Haven & Hotel 186, 190 Kariwak Village Restaurant 186, 190 Kava 93, 118, 119 L’Orchidee Boutique Hotel 97 La Tropicale Flower Shop 111 La Vita Day Spa 63 Le Grande Almandier 96 Le Sportel Inn 96 Lime-Inn 116 Lotus Wares 51 LUCE 105 Magdalena Grand Beach & Golf Resort 1, 178,194 Maria’s Bakery 132 Martin Superville 55 McDonalds 120 Mélange Restaurant 131 Metro Nightclub 104 Ministry of Tourism 39, 85 More Sushi 126 More Vino 126 Mount Irvine Bay Hotel & Golf Club Resort 178 MovieTowne Entertainment & Shopping Centre 51, 103, 165 MovieTowne Mall 51, 103, 165 MovieTowne Tobago 165 Nails by Odalé 62 Nichossa Restaurant 132 Nigel R. Khan Bookseller 23 On Location Art Galleries Ltd. 55 Papa Joe’s Place 182 Pasta Gallery 194 Pavilion Restaurant 179, 191 193 Pembois Restaurant & Terrace 48 Petit Gourmet Petit Point Cottage 184 Pink Hibiscus 61 114, 115 Pizza Hut Plantation Beach Villas 182 173 Plantation Beach Water Sports Ltd. 47 Qirat Jewellery R.I.K. Services Ltd. 49 49 Rainy Days Ray Cool 47 98 Regent Star Hotel Renew Star Serpentine Limited 62 86, 87 Republic Bank Limited 54 Richard Rampersad Rovanel’s Resort 183 96, 97 Royal Hotel (1978) Limited 124, 125 Ruby Tuesday Cover, 2 Ryan Williams 133 Salad Café 193 Salaka Grill
186 Sandy Point Beach Club Seahorse Inn Restaurant & Bar 195 Shade Night Club and Restaurant 163 Sherman’s Auto Rentals 147 Shoppes @ Westcity 155 Shore Things Café & Craft Shop 194 Shutters on the Bay 192 Signature Selection 17 Silver Dollar Casino 21 Small Tourism Accommodation Owners of Trinidad and Tobago (STAOTT) 98 Soong’s Great Wall 128, 129 Spa Escencia 62 Stechers 3 Stumblin’ on the Avenue 105 Subway 122, 123 Sunspree Resort 186 SuperPharm Limited 47 Surf Side Hotel 182 Surrendra Maraj 55
T-Z
T.G.I.Friday’s 116, 117 Tamnak Thai Restaurant 130 TAO Sushi 127 Texas de Brazil 120, 121 The Art Gallery 55 The Courtyard by Marriott Inside Cover, 90 The Chaguaramas Development Authority (CDA) 77 The Face and Body Clinic Limited 63 The Gem Shop 46 The Hilltop Restaurant 131 The Le Sportel Inn 96 The Pasta Gallery 194 The Pavilion Restaurant 179, 191 The Regent Star Hotel 98 The Royal Hotel (1978) Limited 96, 97 The Seahorse Inn Restaurant & Bar 195 The Shade Night Club and Restaurant 163 The Verandah 126 The Villas at Stonehaven 178, 179 Things Natural 155 Tiki Village 93, 118, 119 Tobago Charms 154 Tobago Dive Experience 173 Tobago Frontier Divers Ltd. 173 Tobago Reef Masters 173 56 Tomley Roberts Tourism Devlopment Company 39, 85 Limited (TDC) 118, 119 Town Restaurant & Bar 90, Back Cover Tradewinds Hotel Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau 83, 85 Trinidad and Tobago Hospitality and 131 Tourism Insititute 184, 185 Tropikist Beach Hotel & Resort 173 Undersea Tobago 45 Value Optical Verandah 126 178, 179 Villas at Stonehaven 17 Vintage Imports Wine Merchants 114 Waterfront Restaurant Westshore Medical Private Hospital 62 50 Wet Swimwear Zanzibar 122, Inside Back Cover 122, Inside Back Cover Zanzibar by the Sea 68 Zip-Itt Adventure Tours Limited