Industry News

ULTRACEUTICALS EXPANDS INTO THE US MARKET

Ultraceuticals Skincare is proud to announce the launch of its award-winning, cosmeceutical, high-performance and not tested on animals skincare brand in the United States. Founded in 1998 by cosmetic physician Dr. Geoffrey Heber, Ultraceuticals was created out of a passion for innovation in the cosmeceutical arena and the desire to produce effective skincare for consumers while simultaneously supporting estheticians to deliver the highest level of care. Dr. Heber leads a team of Australian chemists, charged with the goal of formulating potent and effective cosmeceutical skincare that is panel tested and shown to deliver efficacious results. Using a combination of sophisticated, patented delivery systems and potent anti-aging superstars like Vitamin A, Vitamin C and Alpha Hydroxy Acids AHAs, each product is developed for optimal efficacy. “Our mission is to empower everyone we touch around the world with real skincare and life-changing results all formulated in our Australian labs,” says Dr. Heber, Founder. “We have been looking forward to launching in the U.S. market for some time now and are excited to finally introduce Ultraceuticals to the U.S. consumer seeking high performance skincare that delivers real visible results.” Under the leadership of Karen Wilkin-Donachie, CEO and beauty industry veteran in the U.S, Ultraceuticals has assembled a team of U.S. distributors nationwide that will carry and distribute the product range in the medi-spa and salon/spa channel of distribution. Ultraceuticals products will also be available direct to consumer via the Ultraceuticals website. “We operate an omnichannel business model which means our relationships are the most important aspect of our business,” says Wilkin-Donachie. “True partnership is the cornerstone of our mission - including our relationship with the consumer, esthetician, and distributors. This truly came to light during Covid-19 when we united to pivot our strategy to address the pandemic.

BOOST LAB PARTNER WITH ADORE BEAUTY

Australian serum specialists, BOOST LAB, has today launched its eCommerce and distribution partnership with online beauty destination: Adore Beauty. Beauty lovers can now selfselect and purchase BOOST LAB’s targeted range of single focus treatment serums based on their skin concerns, directly from one of Australia’s fastest growing online beauty retailers. Adore Beauty, which recently listed on the ASX as ABY, welcomes the acquisition with Danielle Chee, Senior Category Manager - Skincare & Wellness commenting: “We are pleased to have BOOST LAB join our esteemed family of brands to service our growing database of discerning beauty customers. In recent years, a spotlight has been shone on Australian beauty brands for the unique way in which they uphold quality formulations, function and performance, wrapped up in fun, approachable and attainable ways” says Chee. “BOOST LAB maintains this calibre and speaks very much to our core skincare customer that is more ingredients-focused and active skincare-led. We are proud to partner with fellow Australian businesses such as BOOST LAB, supporting us in our journey to reinforce that beauty is attainable for all, judgement-free and entirely individualistic, and most importantly: that everyone has the right to great skin!” she adds. The announcement comes less than six months on market for BOOST LAB, with the brand rapidly powering forward.

WRINKLE SCHMINKLES GETS A NEW LOOK.

Launched by Gabrielle Requena in 2014 when she saw a gap in the market for a non-invasive solution to chest wrinkles and discovered the efficacy of 100% Medical Grade Silicone, Wrinkles Schminkles has been a quiet achiever with a steady upward trajectory. 100% Aussie-owned and selffunded by Requena, the brand is on track to increase growth over 100% for the fourth year running, appearing on TV shopping networks in North America, the UK, Russia in addition to securing a coveted regular spot on TV Shopping in Australia, and now has warehouses and/or distribution in Sydney, NZ, Texas, Canada and London to service the brands expanding global markets which currently includes 40 countries. “We’ve experienced exponential growth here in Australia as well as overseas, but being an Aussie brand, domestic retail continues to be an important focus for us. We had such strong belief in the efficacy of our Silicone Patches, we initially led with the product itself and let the ensuing consumer response drive the business. Given our growth and in response to our retail partners’ feedback, we now recognise the need to refresh the brands positioning with a more contemporary look and feel, while also clearly expressing the credibility and product benefits to the in-store shopper”. The new contemporary clear resealable pouch enables the customer to see the product, better understand the concept and ‘experience the actual product on shelf in addition to a new “storage” card with instructions for optimal use and longevity.

MESOESTETIC INTRODUCES ITS NEW BRAND IMAGE

mesoestetic, a world leader of the medical cosmetics and cosmetic medicine industry, continues to grow as a brand and as a company. mesoestetic was born 35 years ago with the concept of creating effective and innovative solutions for professionals in the medical-cosmetic industry. Today, it has developed products and treatments that have become icons of the

industry worldwide. Once again, mesoestetic looks to the future and is established as a benchmark trusted by the most exacting professionals and consumers all over the world. The pharmaceutical company continues to build its brand and has introduced the evolution of its visual identity worldwide, associated with a new tagline that covers its core values and positions the company as scientists servicing the world of beauty: ‘the element for skincare experts’. mesoestetic is committed to innovation, building on its strengths. This visual evolution marks the starting point for the company’s new direction, continuing to be a benchmark in the aesthetic industry. “Even in the current socialeconomic context, we continue to grow and are committed to such an exciting project in which we have been working on since June 2019”, Joan Carles Font, founder and executive director of mesoestetic, assures. With the new tagline ‘the element for skincare experts’, mesoestetic is positioned as the essential element for skin care, adding value to the research and medical expertise as the future of beauty. “We exist to provide scientific rigour to the professional cosmetics and cosmetic medicine industry, and to meet the needs of the most exacting professionals and consumers. Therefore, today we redefine our global image, through which we can show the world all that we are”, Fernando González, Marketing Director of mesoestetic, explains. The visual identity of mesoestetic has evolved to connect with its customers and consumers across five continents. This new image will also involve restructuring the portfolio, with the purpose of organising products based on their use and indication. Changes in product packaging will take effect throughout this year starting with new launches and then updating the existing portfolio. As well as introducing the packaging changes, mesoestetic will continue to support medical and aesthetic clinics, by providing new and updated materials to assist in promoting their products and treatments.

EUROPE TO START ‘ORDINARY’ COSMETICS EXPORTS TO CHINA WITHOUT ANIMAL TESTING.

France has become the first country to sign a trade deal with Chine to begin exporting of “ordinary costics’ including shower gels, shampoo and body lotion, without its normal mandatory animal testing. The Fédération des Entreprises de la Beauté (FEBEA) in France said that “in order to bypass this criterion, companies worldwide must present a certificate to approved authorities in China that states the company is conforming to Good Manufacturing Practices, in addition to product safety assessments.” Companies that fulfil this criteria for importing “ordinary” cosmetics no longer require animal testing for eye and skin irritation in Chinese laboratories. According to reports, “ordinary” cosmetics make up the majority of personal care products imported into China, versus special cosmetics such as hair and skin coloring products, permanent wave products, sun protection, anti-hair loss and children’s products. Global cosmetic companies and health authorities have attempted to introduce alternatives to animal testing to Chinese authorities, as animal testing has been banned in the EU since 2009. Since June 2014, certain cosmetic products such as shampoos, shower gels and makeup manufactured and marketed in China no longer required animal testing, although domestic special-use products and all imported cosmetic products still mandated it. In France, the Agence Nationale de Sécurité du Médicament, or National Agency for Medicines Safety (ANSM), can issue the Good Manufacturing Practices certificate to cosmetic manufact¬urers. Since January 12, 2021, the ANSM has created a platform to download the documents necessary to receive this certificate, which reportedly allows all French cosmetic manufacturers to export products to China without being animal tested upon arrival. Most multinational corporations have factories set up in China but the animal testing requirements for other foreign beauty players have kept companies from exporting directly to the country; until now. Often, cruelty-free companies have opted to sell products to Chinese consumers via e-commerce websites. Reportedly, this is because pre- and post-marketing testing requirements in China have not applied to beauty products ordered by consumers through a e-commerce websites if the site itself and fulfilment locations were outside of mainland China, and if the products were sent directly to a consumer in China. “We are delighted with this progress, which rewards several years of efforts made with the Chinese authorities,” said Patrick O’Quin, president the Fédération des Entreprises de la Beauté (FEBEA), France has become first country in the, in a statement from the report. “The cosmetic industry is the only one in Europe to have completely banned animal testing and we are happy to continue changing regulations in other parts of the world. This agreement will also allow French cosmetic companies to export more fluidly and quickly to China. This country is now our second-largest trading partner.”

GOOGLE SEARCH DATA REVEALS BIGGEST BEAUTY TRENDS.

The origins of skincare and cosmetics can be traced back thousands of years to Ancient Egypt, and throughout the centuries that have since passed, beauty trends have continued to evolve. From winged eyeliner and beehive hairdos to ultra-thin eyebrows and brown lipstick, some have yo-yoed in and out of the beauty scene over the years, while others remain firmly on the agenda – in fact, false lashes have been en vogue since 1899. The Body Shop analysed online search data from 64 countries and identified the Top Global Beauty Trends. Over half of the biggest global beauty trends focused on hair with search terms ‘short hair styles’, ‘boycut hairstyles’ and ‘microblading’ topping the global list. Other top beauty terms searched included ‘Botox’, ‘eyelash extensions’ & ‘eyebrow threading’. In Australia, the top 10 list also reflected global trends towards shorter haircuts, with the inclusion of ‘eyebrow tinting’, ‘spray tans’ and ‘how to treat cellulite’ for the Beauty & Aesthetics industry. In cosmetics, search term ‘natural makeup’ sees 57k global Google searches per month. Rosy cheeks are bang on trend as well with ‘pink blush’ seeing 95k monthly searches around the world. Meanwhile, ‘bronzer’ is close behind with 93k monthly Google searches worldwide. Eyebrow grooming continues to dominate top searched trend lists worldwide. In fact, ‘eyebrow threading’ receives 312k monthly searches, and eyebrow related beauty searches make up a third of the Top 10 Most-Googled Beauty Trends in the US.

AUSSIE FACE HALO EXPLODES ONTO US MARKET.

Face Halo, the award-winning reusable make-up remover made from HaloTech fibres, have secured a full store roll out into 1246 ULTA stores across the USA as well as placement in the ‘impulse section’ in all stores. The pioneering, sustainable beauty brand launched back in 2017 from Perthbased founder Lizzy Pike. From humble beginnings, to a now successful, global business used by celebrities worldwide (such as Naomi Watts, Chloe Morello and Jess Glynne). Using only water, Face Halo traps and removes makeup for a deep clean and gentle exfoliation. Face Halo’s makeup remover is dual-sided and reusable for up to 200 machine washes, replacing up to 500 traditional makeup wipes. The US expansion is expected to grow global Face Halo sales by over 20 per cent and as ULTA will be ranging the full product range, this makes it the largest deal that Face Halo has achieved to date since the brand launched just over 3 years ago. The head-to-toe Face Halo Sustainable System will now be available in over 10,000 stores globally with the brand having also secured further iconic international retail partners in the past 6 months including Douglas Germany, Zalando in the EU, Rite Aid, Kohl’s, The Hut Group - USA, Superdrug, John Lewis Partnership, Cult Beauty - UK and Indigo, Holt Renfrew in Canada. “Whilst Face Halo has achieved international success in the UK and Australia, launching into 1200+ ULTA stores is an extremely exciting prospect. Unlike their British and Australian counterparts, US consumers are only at the start of their sustainability journey, so we are looking forward to changing the American beauty landscape and positioning Face Halo as the frontrunner and champion of the Conscious Beauty movement”. said Co-Founder of Face Halo, Lizzy Pike

CPCA PUSH CRACKDOWN ON REGULATED LASERS.

The Cosmetic Physicians College of Australasia (CPCA) has long been an avid advocate for patient safety, especially with regards to unregulated laser use in Australia. For many years, the CPCA has been lobbying industry bodies about this very subject with the aim that uniform, national laser regulation be introduced. Currently the regulations governing the use of lasers among states and territories vary significantly, ranging from minimal state regulations to none at all. While, Queensland, Tasmania and Western Australia have some form of regulation, with Queensland’s being the strictest, our two most populated cities, Sydney and Melbourne, have no regulation at all. However, as CPCA President, Dr Michael Molton points out, even in the states where regulation exists, the actual enforcement of those regulations is often lacking. In Australia, there are a wide range of practitioners performing cosmetic medicine procedures, with different degrees of training and experience, education and understanding and unfortunately, this means there is a wide discrepancy in skill levels and the undertaking of responsibility. Registered healthcare professionals are tightly bound by the Australian Health Practitioner Regulation Agency (AHPRA) and the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) that enforce strict standards of advertising and procedure. Those that are not governed by the same regulations, such as the type of non- medical personnel highlighted in last night’s program, have the freedom to advertise and effectively lure members of the public in a more enticing manner, without having to disclose their level of training and expertise. As with all technology, performing laser treatments in a manner that ensures patient safety involves a steep learning curve. However, at this time, all that’s required is adequate money to purchase the laser device and set-up shop. The CPCA believes this is incubating an environment where untrained operators are in fact, experimenting on unsuspecting members of the public, while they hone their skills. “The patient visits a practitioner in good faith, and they have every right to believe they are being treated by an experienced professional,” said Dr Molton. Moving forward, the CPCA aims to work together with industry bodies in a collaborative manner to lobby for the Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency (ARPANSA) to act quickly on this matter, as national regulation and enforcement of these regulations is well overdue.

NEW DATES ANNOUNCED FOR BEAUTY EXPO ONLINE AND BEAUTY EXPO AUSTRALIA

After a whirlwind of a year in 2020, we are delighted to announce the Reed Exhibitions are back this year with two beauty events. Beauty Expo Online on the 22-24 March and the physical event Beauty Expo Australia on the 28-29 August. With Beauty Expo helping to shape the future of Australian beauty trends, innovations and product offerings for almost two decades, Reed Exhibitions are excited to bring you even more over the course of this year. With exceptional artists and leaders speaking at one or both of these events, product launches, competitions and more, Stay tuned for more information as it is released.

www.beautyexpoaustralia.com.au

THE AESTHETIC BEAUTY INDUSTRY COUNCIL

The new Aesthetic Beauty Industry Council is working hard behind the scenes with a plethora of experienced board members and a plan to exist for the purpose of providing an authentic, ethical, accessible and supportive organisation for the betterment of the professional standards, working practices and unity of the salon, clinic and spa industry. The Aesthetic & Beauty Industry Council has been established based on a set of values which reflect the relevance and internal behaviours of an industry association, which are: ● Listen to members ● Respond to industry needs ● Represent small business with a large voice

● Show fairness, respect & honesty in all that they do. For the last 9 months, the Board has met weekly to understand the needs of the Australian industry and together, build the ABIC as a Not For Profily Association. Beauty Biz will be nringing you an in depth look at the New ABIC in our next issue, but for now, to register interest for more info please visit

https://theabic.org.au/

DERMAENERGY UNVEILS FRESH LOOK, IMPROVED FORMULAS AND NEW CREAM CLEANSER

Australian cosmeceutical skincare line Dermaenergy has revealed a sleek new look that reflects a growing level of sophistication in their youth-oriented White Label range. Since launching in 2017 to cater to the millennial market, White Label has become synonymous with price-competitive, serious skincare delivered with a light-hearted, tonguein-cheek touch. However, the original formulas – while popular – were not perfect. And this just wasn’t part of the plan for Dermaenergy founder, Sean Abel. Putting his money where his mouth is, Abel went back to skincare school to obtain his cosmetic chemist qualifications, and he is now involved in the formulation of each product – from inception to delivery. Not satisfied with ‘good enough’, he’s gone back to the drawing board to ensure each of the original Dermaenergy White Label products now deliver the very best results possible at the same wallet-friendly price point. To better reflect the sophistication of the new, improved formulas, Abel also went back to the drawing board on design. The result, released this week, is a more refined, pared-back appearance for Dermaenergy White Label. While some things have changed, the bold colours and sense of fun remain – with the popular product names (Solution From Pollution, Filthy Rich, Shed The Dead et al) here for the long haul. Also new in Dermaenergy White Label world in February is the arrival of the new Cream Clean Cleanse. Formulated with mild, non-ionic surfactants that won’t strip or irritate a fragile complexion, this creamy, dreamy cleanser delivers a gentle yet effective clean for normal-to-dry sensitive skin. Ideal for use on clients post peel, laser or dermabrasion, the luxurious Cream Clean Cleanse soothes with licorice and ginger, while ATP energises and a trio of nourishing oils and mango seed butter hydrate skin and boost natural radiance. Rich in essential fatty acids, with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, sweet almond, argan and avocado oils restore moisture and reduce irritation for smooth, soft, supple results. Suited for morning and/or evening use, the Cream Clean Cleanse can be used with or without water to remove makeup, dirt and grime. It’s also the ideal second step in a double cleansing routine for heavy makeup wearers with dry or sensitive skin. Thanks to a fresh look, improved formulas and a new product in the mix, the time is right to introduce, or reintroduce, Dermaenergy White Label to your 1840s clients. Or, for more mature clients with more complex skin conditions and a taste for luxury, look to the premium, highly active Black Label line.

www.dermaenergy.com.au

new!

PROFESSIONAL & SELF-TANNING

ULTRA DARK

BRONZING » Natural ingredients LOTION » 13 different formulas » Exclusive powerful bronzers » Cool Ash, Caramel and Violet bases » Free from sulphates and parabens » Organic, 100% Natural DHA and Erythrulose » Aloe Vera, Kakadu Plum and Skin Firming Centella » Cruelty Free & Vegan Friendly » Australian Made

> COVER STORY A NEW APPROACH TO MICRONEEDLING FOR ULTIMATE RESULTS

Want to achieve the best microneedling results for your patients? Needling the skin with the original and trusted Dermapen™ is only one piece of the puzzle.

While it may be beneficial on its own, you won’t see the same dramatic rejuvenation possible when supporting the skin with a synergistic approach.

You need to do a few vital things to get the kind of results patients rave about. (Money can’t buy that kind of word-of-mouth marketing for your clinic.)

We’re revealing the secrets behind the success of Dermapen Treatments™ so you can enhance your microneedling procedures and grow your business.

Dermapen Treatments: A Synergy of Solutions

Synergy, noun: the interaction of elements that, when combined, produce a total effect that is greater than the sum of the individual elements.

Dermapen Treatments are a holistic solution that encompasses every aspect of the skin’s microneedling journey, backed by rigorous testing and outstanding microneedling results.

We’re so proud to be launching our synergy of solutions to the market, representing a new era in microneedling.

What You Can Achieve

A Dermapen Treatment is the answer to your patients’ multiple skin concerns.

Want to minimise melasma, target a breakout, and erase crow’s feet? No problem. Perhaps your patient has started to notice some fine lines and unwelcome age spots. Now you can banish them simultaneously for a long-lasting, agedefying radiance.

Dermapen Treatments can effectively reduce the appearance of:

• Fine lines & wrinkles • Ageing/sun-damaged skin • Acne • Scarring • Stretch marks • Rosacea • Hair loss • Pigmentation • Enlarged pores • Unwanted tattoos can be at risk of hypopigmentation with other procedures such as laser, can be microneedled effectively.

Open your business up to a bigger market segment by helping more people achieve a flawless complexion.

How Dermapen Treatments Work

For years DermapenWorld™ has been endorsed by leading aestheticians and doctors around the world for our superior products and devices. We know skin miracles occur when the right products are used together, in the right order, at the right time.

Dermapen Treatments take the guesswork out of microneedling. Today we’re giving you a sneak peek at the 4-step journey to sensational skin, without confusion, pain, or risks.

Step 1: Clinical Consultation

Most people choose microneedling because they want to rewrite their skin’s history and achieve a flawless complexion. The last thing you want is to inflict scars, trauma and inflammation. Using cheap solutions could end up costing your practice dearly.

As a DermapenWorld Authorised Treatment Provider (affectionately known as our ATP) you’ll be trained and fully supported with our soughtafter gold-standard Protocols. Your patients—and your practice—deserves the very best. And thanks to DermapenWorld Protocols, you’ll be able to perform procedures and talk about the technology with full confidence.

Set Your Skin Goals Together

There’s nothing more frustrating than having your hard work undone by patients that don’t comply with your advice. The consultation is the perfect moment to get clear with your patients about the roles both of you play in their Dermapen Treatment.

What your patients expect from you:

• Fully qualified and highly trained. • Provides the very best procedures using an original Dermapen. • Uses the NON-NEGOTIABLES when microneedling—Dp Dermaceuticals™. • Provides a sterile environment. • Provides a personalised prescription of Dp

Dermaceuticals for home care.

What to expect from your patients:

• Follows prescribed microneedling pre- and post-care vigilantly. • Boosts results with synergistic home procedures, such as Dp Dermaceuticals

L.E.D.™ Light Therapy Masks, 3D

Sculptured Sheet Masks and at-home microneedling top-ups using the Dermapen

HOME™.

Step 2: Prepare the Skin

Send your patients home with a prescription of the right products to prepare their skin. The way skin is treated before, during, and after microneedling is critical to effectiveness and comfort of a procedure.

The Dp Dermaceuticals™ range has every product necessary for you to design custom routines for individual skin concerns.

Cleanse & Exfoliate: Our cleansers remove surface impurities such as makeup or environmental residue while the exfoliator gets deeper into the pores, without being harsh or abrasive.

Serums: Often gel-like in consistency, serums can reach the deeper layers of skin to promote regeneration.

Correct: Is your client battling acne scars, pigmentation or wrinkles? Help erase their personal skin indications with a corrector.

Moisturise: Keep hydration levels topped up while also shielding the skin from environmental impurities.

Protect: Offer your patients the most effective level of sun protection for the skin, while camouflaging any blemishes or redness. Our revolutionary product COVER RECOVER™ also contains actives for a comforting and cooling sensation.

Masks: Drench skin in intensive and luxurious Hyaluronic Acid or proven brightening actives immediately after a procedure and once a week.

Each product contains carefully selected actives at a strength proven to be most effective. Our revolutionary HylaFuse™ Complex encapsulates the actives and delivers them to targeted skin layers—for up to 8 hours after application.

Step 3: Clinical Procedure

Dermapen 4

Our Authorised Treatment Providers are the only people authorised to use our world-class professional Dermapens. The Dermapen 4™ is the latest device to hit the market, and it’s unmatched in terms of both microneedling results and comfort.

If patients are reluctant about any pain they might experience, we highly recommend the Dermapen 4. Patients have compared the sensation to that of a light abrasion gliding over the skin. It’s so comfortable that we don’t recommend using any numbing cream.

This comfort level is extraordinary, considering that the device can create up to 1,920 rejuvenating microchannels per second in the skin. That’s 104% faster than other devices on the market.

Add to that a dedicated scar setting, fully automated technology, inbuilt anticontamination management functionality (it stops any backflow of fluid into the device); it’s a clear market leader.

Meso-Glide Serums

Whatever you put on your patient’s skin immediately before or after a microneedling procedure will go in. Needling in the wrong products can irrevocably damage their skin—and with it, your reputation.

That’s why we support our ATPs with the knowledge and tools necessary to conduct safe procedures.

Hyaluronic Acid and microneedling go handin-hand. But not all HA is created equal; the molecules have to be small enough to penetrate deep into the skin.

Our signature HA formulation is called HylaFuse™, and it contains 3 different sized molecules to target 3 levels of the skin. The very smallest molecules travel deep to release potent active ingredients.

We have several different Meso-Glide™ serums which must be used while microneedling at home or in a clinic setting.

- MG-Collection™, a professionals-only range with 2 products that contain a potent strength of 35 mg/ml of pure HylaFuse Hyaluronic Acid. - HYLA ACTIVE™, our signature HA serum that provides intense hydration and comfort to the skin. - A combination of these formulations with other serums such as BRITE LITE™ or even P.R.P. and Botulinum Toxin. - Any of our other targeted serums that contain

HylaFuse.

Microneedling Aftercare

Immediately following a Dermapen microneedling procedure, the skin should be instantly cooled, calmed and nourished with one of our Dp Dermaceuticals 3D Sculptured Face Masks. The skin is securely wrapped in moisture while absorbing potent actives through the newly created microchannels. (Patients often tell us this is their favourite part of a Dermapen Treatment.)

Next comes the miracle product COVER RECOVER™ that both covers up any signs of redness and soothes and calms feelings of heat and even protects the skin from the sun’s harmful rays.

When you follow our Protocols precisely, Dermapen Treatments are considered a “lunchtime” procedure as there’s minimal microneedling downtime. Your patients are free to get on with the rest of their day.

Step 4: The Home Prescription

Your patients will get better results if they support their skin’s journey at home. Be the one to provide them with everything they need so they don’t resort to scouring the Internet for (sometimes misleading) advice.

Our Starter Kits contain the microneedling aftercare essentials. As the skin undergoes the proliferation phase dryness can occur, so your patients need to understand how to support their skin during this phase to achieve the ultimate transformation.

Microneedling at Home

The Dermapen HOME is not a replacement for a professional procedure, as it targets the skin’s superficial layer. Instead, it’s a fantastic device for the microneedling enthusiast looking to complement clinical procedures for a nextlevel glow. (Once they see those incredible microneedling results, they’ll never look back!)

Dermapen HOME has been proven to visibly support professional procedures in reducing the appearance of wrinkles, pigmentation, problematic skin including acne, open pores, uneven skin texture, and rosacea.

Microneedling with Dp Dermceuticals serums at home makes sure those transformational actives are getting to the ideal skin depths for a smooth, radiant complexion.

Are You Ready to Make a Change?

It’s no good having a top of the range device if you’re needling in products that are unsterile or unsuitable for infusion. Likewise, using superior creams and serums can only take you so far and won’t protect you from blunt needles, dangerous depths, or an unsterile procedural environment.

By adhering to DermapenWorld’s Synergy of Solutions, you can feel confident in achieving ultimate results for your patients and practice. With over 3 million Dermapen Treatments performed worldwide and counting, it’s safe to say more and more people are embracing the DermapenWorld difference.

We’re always on the lookout for forwardthinking clinics and aestheticians to join us. Would you like to become a DermapenWorld Authorised Treatment Provider? Visit www.DermapenWorld.com

A LIFELONG PASSION TO BESimply Elegant

With an impressive 34 awards to her name (including ABIA awards), Cherie Tippett of Simply Elegant on Brisbane’s north side, is one inspiring clinic owner. With the business celebrating its 31st birthday, and being under Cherie’s ownership for 18 years, she has turned a lifelong passion for our industry and her entrepreneurial spirit into a multi-award winning Medi Spa boasting over 7 treatments rooms and the latest in anti-aging technologies.

Cherie shares her journey in business, the secret to her success and the changes she’s had to make over her 18 years in business to thrive in an ever-changing industry landscape.

CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF AND HOW YOU FIRST GOT INTO THE INDUSTRY?

I always had a keen interest in Beauty Therapy and after completing year 12, I went on to study. I always wanted to have my own business and I realised early on in my career that building a business based on my passion would be the key motivator to not only launching my business but would also make it easier to push through tough challenges to long-term success. I never altered my career path; it was always going to be working towards my passion of owning my own salon. It took many years of hard work, study, developing my beauty therapy skills, attending small business management courses, till finally I was ready to take the leap into salon ownership Simply Elegant. By surrounding myself with others who share my vision the business has flourished

WHAT INSPIRED YOU MOST ABOUT THE INDUSTRY?

The feeling of being able to nurture my blients and my staff, so that they can achieve their goals. At Simply Elegant it is passion, shared, purpose, and values that hold us true to the course, and creates the group dynamics to maximise the energy and commitment of our team These ideals that are reflected in our “Clients Excellence Policy” to achieve and exceed our client’s expectations in the care, quality, and results of their Simply Elegant experience.

WHAT ARE SOME OF THE CHALLENGES YOU HAVE HAD TO FACE GROWING YOUR BUSINESS OVER THE YEARS?

We have had lots of challenges over the years. The most recent was the lockdown in 2020. During this time, it was all the unknown. We took this time to reassess our processes and systems so when we were able to reopen, we could put the new processes in place.

HOW HAS YOUR BUSINESS EVOLVED AND CHANGED OVER THE YEARS?

When we purchased Simply Elegant, it only had just 3 treatment rooms. My vision was bigger and we have now grown the salon to 7 treatment rooms, a spray tan room, a manicure room, a makeup room, a locker room along with changing rooms and a pedicure lounge. Simply Elegant consists of 2 areas Simply Elegant and Simply Elegant Gold Class. Simply Elegant Gold Class is for Clients that are wanting a luxury beauty experience.

HOW MANY THERAPISTS DO YOU HAVE ON YOUR TEAM AND HOW DID YOU GO ABOUT GROWING AND MANAGING YOUR TEAM?

Our Team of 5 care for our Clients. To ensure our Clients of the absolute best we have a very rigorous recruiting process to evaluate, assess and hire the best therapists available. From their first interview they are made familiar to Our Vision and Passion for the business and our industry. By refining this process over the years, we have been able to develop a team of long-

term, reliable, and expert team of professionals. We value not only their skills but also their willingness to work as a supportive cohesive team

CAN YOU TAKE US THROUGH THE BRANDS YOU STOCKED AND THE PROCESS YOU WENT THROUGH CHOOSING THE BRANDS TO HELP CARE FOR YOUR GUESTS?

We stock Germaine De Cappuccino, Pevonia and Dermalogica Skincare. A lot of research goes into choosing Skincare for our business. Our clientele puts a lot of trust in us and the skincare must deliver results. The 3 different skincare brands give our clients choice. When choosing our brands there are 3 important things we consider, must deliver results, must be 100%+ markup and ongoing up to date training for our team.

WHAT KEY CHANGES HAVE YOU FOUND IN YOUR HIRING PROCESSES AND STAFFING NOW COMPARED TO WHEN YOU FIRST STARTED?

We require more commitment now from our Team. We look for experience, knowledge, commitment and passion.

WHAT ARE SOME OF THE CHANGES YOU HAVE NOTICED IN CONSUMER TRENDS IN YOUR OWN CLINIC SINCE YOU FIRST OPENED?

It is no longer just pampering. Our Clients want results and we need to ensure we deliver. When we first began it was all about 2 hours of pampering and now our Clients are with us for a 30-minute results skin treatment. Majority of our Clients invest in skin treatment programs and are very diligent with their prescribed home care.

HOW HAS TECHNOLOGY SHAPED YOUR BUSINESS?

Technology has completely transformed our business with the high performance results provided to our Clients and the massive increase to our revenue. We were very fortunate to align ourselves with The Global Beauty Group. They continually keep us up to date on the consumer trends and cutting-edge technology.

WHAT INSPIRED YOUR CHOICE TO TAKE A DEEP DIVE INTO ONE LOCATION AS OPPOSED TO DIVERSIFYING AND OPENING ANOTHER LOCATION/S?

We are very happy with the one location. It is a central and professional location. We can put all of energy into making Simply Elegant the best it can be.

HOW WAS 2020 FOR YOU, YOUR BUSINESS AND YOUR TEAM AND WHAT REFLECTIONS HAVE YOU HAD ABOUT ‘THE YEAR THAT WAS’’ AND WHERE TO FROM HERE’?

2020 ended up a great year for us on many levels including financially. Although It was a very unknown year, it allowed us to stretch and grow. Our planned marketing strategies had to be rejigged and recalibrated to be able to deliver the results we optimum results wanted regardless of the circumstances. One thing we really noted once the support we received from our partners/ suppliers but most importantly the loyalty we received from our valued Clients.

TELL US MORE ABOUT THOSE?

We were very honoured and excited to receive the accolade ABIA Salon of the Year QLD (5 treatment rooms or more) and Best Beauty Salon - GLOBALLY from The World Luxury Spa Awards. These awards honour the best of the best, created to recognise, and commend the most outstanding Beauty Salon for their outstanding efforts The winner presents the highest-quality standards and professionalism setting a benchmark for the industry. These accolades were an amazing achievement for the entire Simply Elegant team. It also confirmed to our existing Clients that they have chosen the right Salon and welcomed a lot of new Clients. It created a different feel and buzz in the Salon. The Simply Elegant Team and Clients are still excited and honoured by these accolades.

WHAT’S NEXT FOR SIMPLY ELEGANT IN 2021?

I work very close with our amazing business coach, Caroline Nelson which I have done for many years. Caroline is the best in the business, and we are extremely lucky to have her as part of our Team. Caroline sees things that I don’t see, so I am very sure there will be lots more installed for Simply Elegant. Caroline pushing me beyond my limits. We are in the process of introducing a unique Australian made range. We felt stocking at least one Australian Made skin care range would be a good move, it would save the energy that is used to transport products via planes, trucks, and ships that contributes to global warming and unhealthy air quality. In addition, buying Australian-made means the money stays within and generates more income for the national economy.

MOVING ON, UP & OUT!

James Vivian and his skin-obsessed team took the grand leap of faith in the midst of the pandemic to up root the business from it’ current digs to a new home in swanky Melbourne suburb, Toorak.

If anyone knows the power of good skincare, it’s James Vivian. In 2004, a facial literally changed his life, inspiring him to swap a career in music for one in Dermal Therapies.

Determined to share the feel-good effects of amazing skincare, James launched award-winning mobile dermal therapies clinic, The Travelling Peelsman, in 2010. Arriving at homes and offices in a Mini and armed with his bag of tricks, James quickly earned a loyal following with his holistic approach to skincare, intuitive expertise and genuine commitment to his clients.

Word spread and as client numbers grew, The Travelling Peelsman stopped travelling and set up a clinic in Melbourne’s eastern suburbs, joined by a carefully selected team of experienced therapists. Dubbed a skincare luminary, James’s dedication, care and innate understanding of the links between skin, mind, body and environment flow through his clinics, making each visit an experience that goes far beyond skincare.

A defining driver to the success of James and his team of degree-qualified Therapists is their ability to take time to understand their clients, and their skin, before creating personalised treatment and homecare plans that work with their lifestyle, resources and goals.

The James Vivian approach is holistic, proven and commitment to unwavering excellence in customer care, which saw the team take out both the State (Vic, SA, Tas) and National ABIA 2020 Winners of Salon Spa of the Year 4 treatment rooms or less.

Sustainability is also vital part of daily life, and proudly the team took out the 2019 ABIA for Best Eco Salon of the Year.

Now, after more than a decade of delivering tailor-made dermal therapy solutions, James Vivan is on the move.

The space, nestled in a cosy corner just off Toorak Village, perfectly fuses James’ passion for serious skincare with his love for interiors, art and entertaining. With eclectic accents of lighting, art and considered touches to remind all of home, we are thrilled to introduce you to the new place great skin now lives. Each of the four treatment rooms have been designed to be overly comforting, generous in size and engulfed in tones intended to calm.

For those joining JV for a Dermal Therapy treatment, which may induce some heat or stimulation, soft elements by the likes of Jardan, as well as moody light, will help dismantle any unease.

“The lighting throughout is dark and moody, just like me!” Vivian explains. “I had been searching for a new space for over 2 years when the opportunity to take over this particular business was presented.”

Formerly known as Code M Skincare and headed up by none other than James’ skin mentor Maria Vovos, the choice was a resounding “Yes!” when approached with the handover.

“I had admired and visited what is our new home for nearly 10 years. I willnever forget when I first entered the space and thought I would love to create something like this one day. It was such a simple design and layout; however, every fixture and all materials were selected carefully and are of the highest quality” explained Vivian.

“Fast forward 10-years and I am still pinching myself that this is the new home of James Vivian. Though our own furniture, artwork and style we’ve completely changed the mood and aesthetic and put our ‘James Vivian’ stamp on it. There is a smoking lounge, (that is obviously fake!), and clients love to take a photos of themselves having a faux-fag.”

“Our clients have really enjoyed getting to know the space also. They comment that whilst our previous space was lovely, this is ’next level’. And to them I say, ‘Only the best for our clients’.”

A CUT ABOVE THE REST

Adilla Barbers isn’t your normal hair salon for men. Oh no! Colm and Frankie Flanagan, and their team are bridging the gap between hair and skin with an extensive full-service grooming menu and we asked Colm to walk us through Adilla and how they’re helping meet all their clients’ needs, under one roof.

WHAT WAS THE INSPIRATION BEHIND ADILLA BARBERS?

The inspiration came as I found myself jumping from barber to barber looking for something beyond a great haircut. The opportunities for self-care for men were scarce and a luxury barbershop seemed like a good place to start. Increased stress from an accelerating career in growth marketing coupled with a decrease in my want to have a “night out” left me with few options for an experience I enjoyed. I wasn’t totally comfortable in salons although I had tried a few. Something in between was what I was looking for. And so, an idea was born. What if we could combine the look, feel and quality of a classic barbershop with the beauty services and experience of a salon to ultimately create a space where men can feel confident enough to truly relax.

WHY DOES HAVING A HAIRCUT HAVE TO BE A CHORE, OR A TASK, WHY CAN’T IT BE CONSIDERED A LUXURY ESCAPE?

When we opened 3 years ago, we knew we were ahead of the curve in creating a destination for men, so we spent a lot of time educating the market around us. The goal here was to incorporate facials, treatments, skin care and products into our services whilst taking the time to explain the benefits. Although visiting a more traditional salon is fine, men and women do have different skin problems, different needs and require a different frequency of appointments. Salons with colour and extension services have thousands of dollars’ worth of products in-store, so a men’s cut is deemed a dead service in a hair salon because the upsell opportunity and average spend is low. Learning this made me realise why I would feel less welcomed in a ‘salon’ environment. Other barber shops on the market, at the time, all had a sailor jerry’s feel. We didn’t want a novelty shop, so our designer’s brief was to come up with something that is modern, relaxing and inviting. All of this was considered when creating the aesthetic, theme and well researched menu at Adilla Barbers.

HOW DID YOUR BUSINESS EVOLVE AND CHANGE OVER THE EVENTS OF THE LAST 12 MONTHS?

The change has been quite significant, we have completely shifted our business in the last 12 months. For a number of reasons; COVID related and non-COVID related. Non-COVID related; the market has begun to catch up in men’s grooming and ‘self-care’. We have gone from pitching our deluxe services to clients requesting them regularly. This forced us

to push our services even further and to ensure we always offered something different to our clients. Just ask for The Adilla Escape. COVID related; we have seen our traditional ‘busy periods’ dissipate. There is no longer the unmatched desire for a Saturday appointment, it is very much spread across the week quite evenly, for example, revenue difference between a Tuesday and a Saturday dropped by 40% in 2020 vs 2019. Meaning we now have more staff on a Monday -Thursday than we previously ever have. COVID also gave us a unique opportunity to slow down and look at our business and what was working and what wasn’t. We could really go through our services, products, team and figure out where our weaknesses were. We obviously had to minimise the number of people in the shop for most of 2020, which affected our total revenue, but we had time to get creative with our numbers and the results were mind-blowing. We have learned that COVID or not, we are taking a break from the daily grind to comb through our business to this level every quarter and annually to a larger extent. Keeping a close eye on our growth, team happiness, productivity, client feedback loops and spending. Due to our square meterage, we haven’t been able to have our full team capacity since March, optimising our rostering and clients has been important. We have had our biggest month ever post COVID, so I think despite all the closures and restrictions, the demand for our service has actually increased. - Total Revenue dropped by 30% YoY - Gross profit dropped by 30% YoY - Operating costs dropped by 82% - Net profit increased by 2,563% YoY

HOW HAVE THE TRENDS IN MEN’S GROOMING EVOLVED OVER THE LAST 5 YEARS?

It’s evolved from men accepting the use of 2-in1 products to having multiple products for hair, skin and body. The current social landscape and gender fluidity movement has also made it hugely and widely acceptable for men to have their nails done, be pampered, massaged, attend skin treatments and more. It’s all about finding that time for yourself. In fact, there are now just over one million Millennial men (34% of Millennial men) who both use skincare products and also buy some type of skincare product in an average six months. The main reason, according to Harvey Research, is that with the metro return to men’s barbers and facial hair grooming trending, there is a noticeable shift towards manscaping and grooming. The data suggests guys don’t want a suite of products to adopt. We have compiled the high impact services into our menu to ensure its relaxing, memorable and not overwhelming.

WHAT SETS ADILLA BARBERS APART FROM ITS COMPETITORS?

A lot of aspects that are team focused, and a lot that are client facing. We take pride in our culture and our approach to internal education. We shut our shops every 6-8 weeks and have a complete team day. The goal here is to share knowledge, feedback and to help each other improve in every aspect of our client service. It’s easy to lose focus or get complacent! As founders, we work for our team, our job is to listen and ensure they are happy, learning, improving and in a position to give our clients a memorable experience every time they visit us. On the client side we have led the market in terms of service. This hasn’t been easy, but it has been worth it. We named our hero service “The ADILLA Deluxe’ and since then so many barber shops around us have a ‘Deluxe’ service. A form of flattery! We have since upgraded to The ADILLA Escape and have added extra elements that no-one else has, bridging the gap between beauty and barber. Lots of research, testing and investigation goes into our service upgrades. Our team is incredible and very driven. They are always eager to learn and iterate on what we offer our clients. They spend a lot of time perfecting their knowledge in product so they can always customise their client recommendation.

CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT THE MEN’S SKINCARE ELEMENTS OF YOUR BUSINESS? HOW HAVE YOUR CLIENTELE RESPONDED TO THIS?

No major travel, home-schooling, working from home, these are just some of the things pushing people to feeling “trapped”. During COVID we ramped up our knowledge on skin care and created the ADILLA escape. A combined professional hair and skin service giving our clients an opportunity to escape, if even for just an hour. The feedback has been so positive it helped us drive and keep focused during the rough spots in 2020. Our retail sales have increased by 20% YOY, as they want to recreate this feeling at home. We have always had skin care products in the shop, however offering these more ‘beauty focused’ services and with many clients now upgrading to our deluxe and escape packages, our skincare retail has increased noticeably.

WHAT’S YOUR SIGNATURE SKIN TREATMENT? HOW DID YOU COME UP WITH IT AND WHAT KEY AREAS OF CONCERN DOES IT ADDRESS?

For skincare, the most effective things you can do is exfoliate, cleanse, tone and moisturise. We have a signature men’s facial, also incorporated into our escape package. Using a professional steamer, we complete all steps which comes with additional benefits: • Strengthening of the immune system • Stimulating of white blood cells • Prevent infections • Destroy fungi, bacteria and viruses The steamer allows us to deep cleanse the skin, teamed with an exfoliator is also removes dead skin cells, excess sebum, dirt, bacteria and has the benefits list above. We also do a facial massage with oil and finish with a cold towel to close the pores and remove excess product. We also add V76 SPF moisturiser. SPF is one of the most effective anti-aging products you can use, and most people, specifically men, don’t use one daily and in Australia, we need it.

DO YOU HAVE SEPARATE TREATMENT ROOMS FOR FACIALS ETC OR DO YOU INCORPORATE THEM INTO YOUR BARBER SERVICES?

At the moment we incorporate them into our services at the chair. We aren’t sure the market is quite ready for separate treatment rooms, but it is absolutely something that we are looking forward to seeing in the future. We don’t think it’s too far away.

WHERE DO YOU SEE MEN’S GROOM PROGRESSING OVER THE NEXT FEW YEARS?

Equality! On the whole men have thicker skin, larger pores and are more prone to oil and blackheads. There is absolutely an equal need for skin care and skin care services for men as there is for women. It is becoming more socially acceptable every single day for men to have beauty treatments, and the younger generations coming through are bragging about it all over social media. We believe this will continue to grow and normalise over time giving men an opportunity to escape for more than just “a haircut”.

THE IMPORTANCE OF GUT MICROBIOTA IN HEALTH AND DISEASE By Chiza Westcarr

In the past decade or so, there has been an explosion of literature published about the gut microbiota and its connection to both health and disease. As more research has become available, it is very apparent just how important the trillions of microbes that live inside of us are.

WHAT IS GUT MICROBIOTA?

Made up of bacteria predominantly, as well as fungi, viruses, and archaea, the gut microbiota is found scattered along the entire length of the gastrointestinal tract. These microbes are pH dependent, with the largest colonies, mainly bacteria, found in the large colon. The microbiota is largely responsible for the critical functions of the body’s digestive system. It also educates our immune system, up to 80% of which resides in the gut lining, making it a huge influence on the body’s immune health. The microbiota aids digestion and the absorption of nutrients, hormone regulation, protection from pathogenic microbes, the synthesis of vitamins, and the elimination of toxic compounds. It is responsible for our mental wellbeing, communicating as it does with the brain, through the production of neurotransmitters such as dopamine, acetylcholine, serotonin and GABA (gamma aminobutyric acid), which are important for concentration, mood and motivation. It also controls bowel function, and influences weight gain and weight loss. Importantly to Skin Therapists, the microbiota is linked to skin health. This relationship is referred to as the gutskin axis. gut and skin health is a strong one. We see time and again the impact of poor gut health on skin health.

The frustration that many skin therapists have experienced over the years, attempting to address skin concerns with topical skincare and in-clinic treatments only, has led to a growing interest in an inside-out or holistic approach. The recognition that diet, good or bad is reflected in skin health, has led many Skin Therapists to begin working alongside a naturopath or nutritionist, or to hit the books once more, enrolling to study nutrition, nutritional medicine or naturopathy themselves. Where skin therapists have furthered their study and gained an insight into the gut-skin link, it is not unusual for their skin consultation forms to include in-depth questions about diet and lifestyle. This allows them to gain a greater understanding of their client and the possible drivers linked to the presenting concern.

DIET

There is irrefutable evidence that a highly processed, Western-style diet, devoid of fibre and high in sodium, inflammatory fats and sugar, adversely impacts the gut microbiota, depleting microbial numbers and diversity. Potentially disease-causing microbes become dominant, and responsible for gut permeability, causing enterocytes, the cells that line the gut, to pull apart, allowing inflammatory molecules to pass into the blood stream, travelling around the body. Poor gut health is reflected in the skin, and is associated with inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea and reactive skin.

STRESS

Apart from poor dietary choices, ongoing stress impacts numerous body systems including the digestive system and skin health. In a healthy gut, tight junctions found between enterocytes provide a barrier, protecting the body from harmful food-related bacteria. Stress can weaken these tight junctions, making the intestinal barrier permeable, and allowing gut bacteria and inflammatory molecules to enter the body via the bloodstream.

We live in a perpetual state of stress. No matter the cause, the impact of stress on the body is the same. Bi-directional communication occurs between the gut and the brain, or the enteric and central nervous systems. This is referred to as the gut-brain axis, and links both the emotional and cognitive centres of the brain with peripheral intestinal functions. The gut microbiota plays an

POOR GUT HEALTH IS REFLECTED IN THE SKIN, AND IS ASSOCIATED WITH INFLAMMATORY SKIN CONDITIONS SUCH AS ACNE, ECZEMA, PSORIASIS, ROSACEA AND REACTIVE SKIN.

important role in this interaction. It communicates via endocrine and immune pathways, via microbial metabolites such as short chain fatty acids, but more directly via vagus nerve signalling. The vagus nerve is the 10th cranial nerve originating in the brain stem and innervating the gut. It communicates information from the gut to the brain using neurotransmitters such as serotonin and GABA, which play a key role in stress regulation.

Stress although considered a mental state, physically affects the gut and its residents. A study found that high levels of stress affect gut microbial diversity. Beneficial bacteria deplete, and potentially pathogenic bacteria increase in number. Anxiety and mood disorders are associated with changes in gut microbial diversity.

Stress affects digestion by slowing down the absorption of nutrients. It is also linked to inflammatory skin condition such as acne, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea and reactive skin.

In order to improve inflammatory skin conditions, try removing or cut back significantly on proinflammatory foods such as cake, sugary biscuits, bread, rice, pasta, dairy, chocolate, ice cream, junk food, soft drinks, and alcohol.

Introduce a wide variety of fruit and vegetables that are fibre-rich. Referred to as prebiotics, they are insoluble and after digestion occurs, they make their way through the digestive tract to the large colon, where they are broken down and fermented. Fibre provides energy for the enterocytes, and also have an anti-inflammatory systemic action.

Strengthen the gut wall with collagen-rich broths and foods rich in zinc and l-glutamine.

Look at introducing supplements. These days, supplementation has become increasingly popular mainly because many people in the population tend not to have a varied enough diet. This means that they are most likely not receiving adequate nutrition.

In an increasing number of skin clinics, supplements, mainly food grade, sit alongside home care products on well-stocked shelves.

Some common supplements include l-glutamine, an amino acid known to restore the mucous lining and the tight junctions between enterocytes. Collagen in the form of powders, drinks and even cookies that may restore the gut lining. Herbal teas are also stocked, that may help with digestion, and calm the nervous system.

Fermented beverages are also popular. Containing strains of beneficial bacteria that may support good gut function.

In my line of work as a Nutritional Medicine Practitioner and Dermal Clinician, I see a lot of women between the ages of 28-65 who use alcohol as their coping mechanism. Many of these ladies drink every single day. Many of them suffer from high stress levels, anxiety, depression, insomnia, inflamed skin, and gut issues. Instead of alcohol, I encourage my clients to add a fermented elixir to sparkling water, served in a champagne flute or wine glass. This makes it possible for them to swap out alcohol during the week, limiting their drinking to the weekend.

LIFESTYLE MANAGEMENT

Effective strategies for reducing stress responses include engaging in regular exercise such as walking, maintaining a social support network, meditation, and incorporating breath work which stimulates the healthy function of the vagus nerve. The vagus nerve plays an important role in the autonomic nervous system, ‘our rest and digest’ system. It acts to counterbalance the sympathetic nervous system, and the fight or flight response, creating instead a relaxation response.

Healthy, glowing skin reflects a calm mind and healthy gut, with a thriving, diverse population of beneficial microbes cohabiting within us. Diet and lifestyle both play equally important roles in gut health, and in skin health too.

You can contact Chiza at www.glowskinandnutrition.com

CHOOSING THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT FOR YOUR SALON

By Nancy Abdou

“If you were going to open up a clinic, what devices would you buy?” That’s the question that I am constantly being asked.

Having owned 15 highly successful locations across Melbourne, training for several key manufacturers and being in the industry for nearly 20 years, has allowed me to have insight as to what devices a business must consider in order to be successful and stand out from their competitors.

However before divulging into those devices, you need to ask your self “what is my business trying to achieve? Is the focus hair removal or skin”? Skin rejuvenation is what will make you stand out from most of the competitors and large franchise chains, since their focus is on hair removal, which is a saturated market. To give you the edge, high client retention rates and satisfaction as well as loyalty, the focus needs to be on skin: scar, stretchmark and wrinkle reduction, pigmentation and vascular treatment, melasma, acne and rosacea management and maintaining your clients youth and skin laxity via collagen induction.

So if you are wanting to extend your treatment menu, offer more results driven services whilst keeping both your clients and team happy then here are the must have devices and why:

IPL – INTENSE PULSED LIGHT

IPL is an amazing technology since it delivers a broad-band of light, this means you can choose various wavelengths, depending on your clients needs and skin condition.

All manufacturers will have a wavelength from 510nm to 560nm to treat epidermal pigmentation such as sun spots, freckles or solar lentigos, these can be eradicated within 2-4 treatments, giving your clients a clear complexion, very quickly. Down time can be anywhere from 7 to 28 days, depending on where you are treating in the body. There are some limitations on what type of pigment you can treat, dermal pigmentation such as melasma and PIH should not be treated with IPL, since this may stimulate the melanocyte and cause a rebound effect. Additionally you cannot treat Fitzpatrick skin types 5 and 6.

Utilising the same wavelength, 510nm to 560nm, various vascular conditions can be treated such telangiectasia, spider nevi, angiomas, as well as rosacea management. When utilising the correct technique and fluences, vascular treatment with IPL is highly successful, taking only about 4 treatments, with rosacea requiring more treatments and long-term maintenance. Again darker Fitzpatrick are not suitable for this treatment, due to the absorption by the competing melanin in the skin.

The 580/590nm wavelength is one of the most underutilised wavelengths, yet the results are extraordinary – especially when combined with epiblading, micro-needling and RF in the same treatment. Reaching approximately 2mm to 3mm deep, depending on the pulse duration selected, this wavelength is brilliant at stimulating fibroblasts, which in turn synthesise collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). Treatment with 580/590nm will help with scar revision, fine lines and wrinkles, stretch marks, open pores and an overall skin plumping and rejuvenating effect.

MICRO-NEEDLING

Micro-needling is a fantastic way to either induce collagen or help with inflammatory skin conditions such as melasma or rosacea. When using micro-needling to induce collagen, we create tiny micro-wounds to pierce the blood vessels and cause pin-point bleeding to stimulate fibroblasts, as well as growth factors, in particular transformative growth factors (collagen and elastin production), interleukin 10 (pigment inhibiting) and cytokines (cellular signalling). These brilliant effects will hep with any skin type or condition that needs remodelling, restoring, regeneration or rejuvenating, on any Fitzpatrick skin type.

On the other hand when performed in a less intense manner, by not causing pin-point bleeding and only just achieving minor erythema, microneedling instigates angiogenesis, which will help with rosacea or dermal pigmentation, as shallow needling inhibits the formation of pigmentation, as well as regulating the functionality of the melanocyte. When clients prepare their skin with active serums, such as Retinaldehyde, Vitamin C and Niacinamide, the effects of shallow needling, intensify immensely.

LED – LIGHT EMITTING DIODES

LED has been around for over 40 years, where NASA used LED’s to grow plants in space (be sure to put your plant under an LED to actually see the effect it has!). Different wavelengths have different effects on individualised cells and tissues and stimulate metabolic function via the light frequencies. All Fitzpatrick skin types tolerate LED well, with no side effects since it is a non-thermal treatment. There are various wavelengths, but the most popular colours are red and blue:

Blue LED at 415-425nm is scientifically and clinically proven to kill the P. acnes bacteria that causes mild-to-moderate acne. Porphyrin is produced in acne, when treated with blue LED it produces singlet oxygen, which interferes with the chemical metabolic reaction of acne and eventually kills P. acnes. All Fitzpatirck skin types tolerate blue LED, with varying doses and exposure.

Red LED, 633nm, is responsible for stimulating ATP (adenosine triphosphate), which is cellular energy in the mitochondria. By the time we have reached age 60, ATP levels have reduced to 50% - which means slower wound healing, reduced levels of collagen and elastin synthesis, thus results are mediocre. By recharging the skin cells energy levels (ATP), results are enhanced and wound healing is much quicker. Prepping the skin for 2 weeks prior, 3 treatments a week with LED, ensures the skin is in top condition and results are the best they can be. much more popular these days and have an excellent return on investment, with unbelievable results seen in 2-3 treatments for skin tightening, scar revision, stretch mark reduction to name a few, on the face and the body. Depending on the pen, most pens are multifunctional and can also treat other skin conditions such as skin tags, sebaceous hyperplasia, milia, pigmented and vascular lesions as well as dot-less plasma treatments and permeating tips used to enhance product absorption.

Plasma Fibroblast works by causing a superficial, fractionated wound that causes collagen fibres to shrink (like saggy jeans in a hot dryer) whilst the transference of heat within the skin, causes fibroblasts to be stimulated – so it’s a two pronged approach. The precision in which the energy is delivered, means it can be used on delicate areas such as the eye lids without inter-ocular eye shields, unlike IPL or laser. Since Plasma Fibroblast is a soft tissue ablator, it can only be used on Fitzpatrick skin types 1-4. Down time can be anywhere from 5-30 days, depending where in the face or body is being treated.

RF - RADIO FREQUENCY

RF is also becoming a very popular treatment for rejuvenation, collage induction, skin laxity and body contouring. RF heats up the dermis between 39-41 degrees to denature collagen, whilst shrinking the collagen fibres and also stimulating fibroblasts. At 42-46 degrees, it causes lipolysis, which is great for contouring areas on the body, whilst reducing skin sag. The results are incredible, with high client satisfaction, especially since there is no down time and can be performed on all skin types, including Fitzpatrick skin type 6.

We used in conjunction with epiblading and needling – the results are amplified: epiblading ensures the skin is exfoliated and hydrated for better RF penetration, whilst performing RF prior to needling causes vasodilation, to achieve better clinical end point and further fibroblast synthesis, along with more growth factors and cytokines. epiblading is just more than ‘shaving the face” – yes it does superficially get rid of vellus hair and gently exfoliates the skin, but can and should be used with other treatments, serums and enzymes for superior outcomes and results and can be used on all Fitzpatrick skin types.

For those with problematic hair, epiblading can be used with IPL or laser hair reduction in the one treatment to permanently reduce dark hairs, otherwise it can be used with a hair retardant such as the Skindividual HairHalt serum.

Epiblading increases the depth of penetration of RF, by hydrating the skin, whilst combining with the 580/590nm IPL wavelength also ensures all of the light is being penetrated to the dermis without obstruction of debris on the epidermal layer. Epiblading can also be used with needling to also cause vasodilation for better pinpoint bleeding, in addition to keeping needles super sharp which means and less bruising.

Even if you were to purchase one of these devices at a time, you are on the right path to a successful business, that is renowned for performing results driven skin treatments. On a final note, when purchasing a device, ensure you are buying from a reputable company that has been around for at least 5 years and provides excellent training and technical support. Also check that the device has an ARTG number and listed on the TGA to ensure your insurer covers you.

For more advice, book in a one hour consultation with Nancy to ensure you are making the right purchase for your business or a personalised coaching session for you and your team, to get the most out of your existing devices or to learn how to effectively and safely combine modalities.

Mention Beauty Biz for a 20% reduction on your session.

NECROTIC TISSUE

WHAT IS IT? WHAT CAUSES IT? HOW CAN WE HELP?

By Gay Wardle

Skin tissue that has died is known as necrotic tissue or necrosis of the tissue. Necrotic tissue can be anything from acute to chronic depending on the surrounding tissue, skin health and overall wellness of the individual. The circulatory systems also have impact as well as internal and topical nutrition.

WHAT IS IT?

Necrotic tissue varies and is affected by the consistency of the wound and the adherence wound bed. As tissue dies, the wound changes in colour. This happens as necrosis increases with severity. Initially the tissue colour will be a whitish/grey and as the consistency increases the colour will change to light brown or yellow with a final change to dark brown / black. The colour becomes darker, the longer the necrosis continues and increases in severity. In the early stages the tissue may have a high-water content and become mucoid, as it becomes more consistent and progresses it becomes dry and has a stringy, clumpy appearance. As it advances, it becomes very dry and hard with a leathery appearance and feel. The consistency is related to the wound retaining moisture in the wound bed. As the wound is exposed to air, the necrotic debris dehydrates, hence it becomes leathery, dry and hard. The level of tissue death can occur in both epidermal and dermal tissue as well as advancing to subcutaneous and muscle tissue. When there is necrosis to subcutaneous, the fat tissue dies and there is a stringy, yellow slough formed, whereas necrosis to muscle causes muscle degeneration and the tissue becomes thicker and tenacious. Fat and dermal necrosis and the formation of slough may be compounded by infection from previous contamination of normal skin bacteria.

What is slough? The colour is yellow to very light brown, it is a thin mucous consistency and at times may appear stringy.

Where there is full thickness destruction to tissue, eschar is formed. Eschar may be soft or hard and is a dark brown to black colour and is more adherent than slough. When debris such as eschar is embedded in the wound it is referred to as adherence. As moisture in a wound decreases and the level of damage increases, necrotic tissue becomes more adherent to the wound bed. A wound will take a long time to heal if there is necrotic tissue as it becomes a medium for bacterial growth as well add to this, the barrier function is severely impaired. With necrosis you have prolonged inflammation, therefore, you will not have granulation over the wound site therefore the wound does not heal.

WHAT CAN BE DONE?

Depending on the severity of the wound and amount of necrotic tissue will give way to the treatment protocols. Most of the time eschar needs to be removed daily where possible, this is done by debriding and removing the eschar. There are a number of debridement techniques, and they will depend on the severity and the amount of necrotic tissue. Debridement requires a high level of skill so to not create further damage to the wound. Mechanical debridement involves the use of force to remove the eschar. The most common types of mechanical debridement would be a wet to dry gauze dressing, whirlpool action to remove the tissue and wound irrigation. Wet and dry gauze are the most common of the three. Wound irrigation would be using a syringe filled with a solution to flush the necrotic tissue, this is also a good way to remove bacteria from the wound site. It is the same with the whirlpool action only this tends to soften the eschar more so.

In conjunction with the above techniques they also use enzymes or chemicals which degrade the eschar. Enzymes will not work on dry, hardened eschar hence they work well with the irrigation technique. They seem to take a little longer to get the results.

The third option is to use a sharp instrument to cut and remove the necrotic tissue from the wound site. This technique seems to work faster with wound healing.

All of these techniques must be performed in a very clean environment so as to not allow further bacteria growth in the wound.

The reason for removing necrotic tissue is so that the wound will eventually heal with hopefully less scar tissue. It is important that we stay in scope of practice and all removal techniques are conducted by a person that is trained and skilled to do so. One important factor to remember is the as soon as the wound bed is clean, the faster the healing process will happen.