8£ AUTUMN/WINTER 2012
2012 ISSUE 3 NM03 PAGE3
I am
NORDIC MAN
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Photographer Nicky de Silva Model Mikkel/Scoop Models Styling Mette Krogsgaard/WOW styling Grooming Vivi Pilgaard/Unique Look Sunglasses Han Kjøbenhavn
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art Per Skovgaard
ISSUE 3 WHAT CAN BE ACHIEVED BY UNDERACHIEVING? WHAT CAN BE MADE FROM NOTHING? THE UNKNOWN. THE NEW. WE TOUCH, SEE AND FEEL. WE ARE FILLING IN THE GAPS. THE SAME GOES FOR THIS ISSUE.
FILM WHO'S AFRAID OF VIRGINA WOLF ELIZABETH TAYLOR VERSION BOOK
WHITE ALBUM JOAN DIDION
MUSIC
ANYTHING FOLK <GOAT RODEO>
FOOD ART
LOBSTER ROLLS
PAINTINGS BY PER SKOVGAARD
CONVERSATIONS
WITH GREAT FRIENDS
EDITOR IN CHIEF XAVIER MORALES
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Cover Bruuns Bazaar Photographer Mattias Edwall Model Victor Nylander
info@nordicman.me Xavier Morales Editor in chief x@nordicman.me
JACOB PETERSEN Editorial director publisher jacob@nordicman.me
jan gjønnes møller Art director
per skovgaard Creative director
Lasse W. Ladefoged Senior Editor
Michael Kristensen Fashion Editor at Large
Kristian Poulsen Advertisement kristian@nordicman.me
Pawet Bignell Features Editor
Alex Torres
Marketing & Sales Director alex@nordicman.me
Laura Petersen Key Account Manager
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C u r at o r Photographer Mattias Edwall/Tomorrow Management Photographer assistant Oliver Grenaa Stylist Jesper Hentze/Scoop Artists Hair and makeup Louise Polano/Unique Look Model Victor Nylander/Scoop Models Location The Lab
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Jacket Soulland
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Jeans Diesel
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Jacket Y3
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All by SAND
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Jacket YSL Sweatpants Nike Socks Vintage København K All by Burberry Prorsum NM03 PAGE15
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Jacket YSL T-Shirt H&M
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All by Burberry Prorsum NM03 PAGE18
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Suit for summer
The lightweight suit
Suit + shirt
Ambiente
Clothing Ambiente Watch Rolex Models Rasmus Salomonsson & Simona Popovic/Scoop Models Grooming May Naes/Scoop Artists
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Trousers stylist own
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A R E NA Photographer Zinna Brigh Mac-Eochaidh Stylist Shami Models Kasper Bol, Jonas With, Søren Dastrup, Sixten bakdal, Andreas Hjortkjær, Christian Troelsfeldt, Jesper Christensen, Dimitri De Paiva
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Shorts (models own) NM03 PAGE24
shoes Addias, NikeÂ
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Trousers stylist own NM03 PAGE27
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Shorts KBH K Vest Brixton Cap flying Coffin Shoes Nike
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T-shirt & shorts models own
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Sweater Wasteland Vintage Shorts Pop CPH Cap Models own NM03 PAGE32
Shoes Nike
Shorts & blouse models own Shirt Wasteland Vintage
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Architecture Kengo Kuma, Tadao Ando, Jeppe Hein, Alberto Kalach
Poul Høilund D. Cruise
I'm only happy when it rains!
Falling water Most of us live in waterproof housing, where the water never
both on an urban level and for each single home.
flows freely through the room. It runs in pipes, hidden from
But why not meet these requirements, by making the water
our vision. We turn on the tap, only to see the water run di-
an asset when we design houses? With its attractive power,
rectly down the drain. Or we see the rain collected in gutters
water makes it possible to establish a strong sensuous value
and downspouts.
and a unique spatial experience.
The Nordic countries experiences a growing trend for heavy
Reflective surface
rain and an increasing need to create local water accumula-
A reflecting pool can stage a subtle universe. This can be
tion. This creates pressure on our management of water at
achieved by letting the rain water accumulate in a pool with
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a thin sheet of water which works as an optical illusion in the
precipitation. This can reduce the chance of flooding in case
transition between the house interior and exterior.
of heavy rainfall.
A project that takes reflection to the extreme, is the archi-
The green roofs constitutes a great potential, because besides
tect Kengo Kumas "Water / Glass House". In an infinite play
holding the water, they create a basis for biotopes in the built
of reflections, this house becomes a complete environment
environment - biotypes that contributes to clean air and
where everything is dissolved and the limits of space disap-
cooling of our cities. These green spaces make it possible to
pear. In the Mexican architect Alberto Kalachs "Casa Palmira" establish social intervention on rooftops, which among other the basin turns into a dramatic dark mirror, that gathers and
things, JDS Architects has done. The green roofs are staging a
reproduces the different volumes of the buildings.
different profile of the buildings in our cities.
Fountain and Silence
In a larger perspective, there is a need to establish areas in the
By putting water in motion and letting the jets of water shoot
city that can collect large amounts of water. And at the same time
up into the air, it is possible to create space, or â&#x20AC;&#x153;visual cur-
create a big mirror that reflects the sky temporarily on the city.
tainsâ&#x20AC;?, that disappears as soon as they arise. In the Danish artist Jeppe Hein's water installation "Appearing Rooms" the
Perhaps it is possible to shape our dwellings and cities so the
visitor is invited to consume temporary space.
water will have a much greater visual and sensual impact. And water is often associated with wellbeing.
In Tadao Andos water installation in Mayfair, London clouds of mist spread over the water at the site every 15 minutes.
The green roofs
Just imagine if it was possible to see water flowing freely through your house and city.
Another way to control the increased mass of rainwater is to establish green roofs, which can retain up to 80 percent of the
A reflecting pool can stage a subtle universe
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MICHAEL BASTIAN Words Incognito Photo Richard Gerst
Michael Bastian is busy. Upping the ante of upscale fashion brand Gant by infusing a fresh, all-American look to a Swedish brand selling an Ivy League image initially borrowed from the Brits. Not to mention creating a massive following with his own designer men’s clothing line. An eyewear line called Michael Bastian for Randolph Engineering. As well as limited editions of unisex flip-flops under the name Havaianas + Michael Bastian.
At first glance, Michael looks like he belongs in a modern day
and a salute to the military in neoprene items a la the US Navy’s
Brylcream ad, with his dashing demeanor and sparkling white
elite SEALs division. Juxtaposed against highbrow references
smile. The epitome of the WASP pedigree his designs allude to,
with Oxford shirts, hints of herringbone, as well as impeccably
evoking associations of Harvard, Princeton, Yale and summer in
tailored tux jackets.
the Hamptons. Michael gravitated towards luxury from the get go, having worked at Sotheby’s and Tiffany’s before heading up
Live fast, die young
the helm as Men’s Fashion Director at Manhattan’s high-end bou-
While at Bergdorf, Michael saw the need for a new visual ver-
tique Bergdorf Goodman. Still, he’s surprisingly unpretentious
nacular for designer men's attire. A void in the market for luxuri-
and approachable, despite a growing list of awards and acco-
ous men’s classics, which would resonate with a more modern
lades, starting with the CFDA’s Newcomer Menswear Designer of
audience. Hence the launch of his eponymous line in 2006, cur-
the Year Award in 2007, followed by CFDA’s Menswear Designer
rently carried in over 50 venues in North America, Japan, Europe
of the Year Award each year for the past four years.
and the Middle East. A favorite of the fashion press, Michael
post-collegiate
continues to create must-see catwalks during Fashion Week. Like his “Lions in Winter” theme, where models varying in facial hair
This isn’t your I-just-borrowed-my-dad’s-Bentley look. Gant by
and age paraded the stage. And his show called “The Extra Man”,
Michael Bastian started out providing guys right out of univer-
replete with falling snow and chandeliers in homage to a phrase
sity with the perfect first wardrobe for work, to which Michael
from a New York Times story from ’74, referring to well-bred
has injected a rough 'n' tumble masculinity and diversity. As
erudites whom Michael terms the “social Olympians”.
seen in his previous collection themes: The Boxer, The Mod and The Preppy. Adding realism to Gant's sporty image, he created
With each of his collections comes more contemporary refer-
a more lived-in look in rugby shirts, along with wrestler wear
ences which attract a growing base of brand aficionados from
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A favorite of the fashion press, Michael continues to create must-see catwalks during Fashion Week. Like his “Lions in Winter” theme, where models varying in facial hair and age paraded the stage
around the globe. Such as Michael’s recent twist on quite
While at Bergdorf, what did you glean from watching men shop?
a coveted cultural icon, our favorite rebel without a cause,
While women see shopping as a pleasure, as their chance to try
James Dean.
on a new persona, men approach shopping more like a job. They
“Dean died in 1955 at only 24. Who knows what he would have
do it and then they really want to get the hell out. Men just want
gone on to wear?” That was Michael’s inspiration for his past
to look like themselves, only better.
spring collection, where he demonstrated that everyone could be James Dean for a day by offering up Deans in all kinds of sizes,
What triggered your desire to create immaculate imperfection?
colors and creeds, including a female Dean.
From spending time in Italy, you see guys in Milan perfectly
Like the prize in a Cracker Jack box
preened – from their haircut to the shine of their shoes. It’s an intimidation factor. Besides, anyone can be perfect. I wanted to
Don’t mistake Michael's seemingly super politically correct,
do something different. Start with perfection and create imper-
squeaky-clean take on sexiness for an empty preppie handbook.
fection. It makes the clothes – and the guy - more interesting.
His clothes aren't meant to merely fill your closet. They should son.
The difference between Nordic vs. American style?
“Something that’s hidden and for you only,” says Michael. It could
In America there’s a negative stigma about being too concerned
also touch your soul. To this end, he includes a secret each sea-
be a phrase. Or a lucky coin, which he created on the hangtags for with fashion. It's better to look like it took no time at all - even Gant last winter as “a reminder to be open to the good things that
if you spent two hours to get that look. There's an openness to
are out there, waiting for you to discover,” explains Michael. Add- imperfection. We have no problem with looking a little undone. ing his wish that “you save it as a reminder that luck is always
In contrast to Swedes, who enjoy dressing up a bit more.
around the corner if you just look for it. Go out and find it.” What do Scandinavian men want to signal with their clothes? Speaking from his HQ in NYC while a Brazilian TV crew was
As far as I know, Stockholm doesn’t have a direct equivalent to
waiting for us to hurry up with this interview, Michael sheds
Fifth Avenue. They’re not as obsessed with obvious luxury. They
light on the differences between Nordic and American men.
don’t want to signal flashiness or money. From what I’ve been
What makes a guy sexy, and why his clothes will help you get the
told, there’s a danger in looking wealthy. With your car, your
phone number of that hottie at the far end of the bar.
house. But like Animal Farm, they’re all equal – just some more than others.
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And American men? Sex appeal. Some more overtly than others. Some want to flash money. Personally I think the most interesting guy at a party is the one standing in the corner. Once you talk to him, you realize he’s the most amazing person there. First you see the guy then you see the clothes.
What about your right hand mujer? Eugenia Gonzalez Ruiz-Olloqui. She's an amazing person. She’s originally from Ciudad Juarez, Mexico and has been with me since my Bergdorf days. When I left, she was the first person I approached to come with me. She works on the women’s collecgreat synergy of styles.
Know that
Any favorite mantras?
• Michael Bastian was born in 1965 in Lyons, New York near Lake Ontario.
tion for Gant with me. We’re a tight team of five people with a
I have none and a million. We try to come up with a meaningful motto each season to inspire you, hidden under the collar or in-
• As a teenager, Michael was so obsessed with Calvin Klein jeans that he mowed the lawn of
side a jacket. The message behind my clothes isn’t about looking
richer or taller or thinner. I want you to feel better about yourself
• Michael briefly entertained the idea of being a Madison Avenue ad man.
when you leave your apartment. Right now we’re playing with the idea of “Omnia Causa Fiunt”, which means “everything happens for a reason”.
half the town to be able to buy himself a pair.
• What he misses when he’s back in New York are Scandinavian breakfasts.
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P UR E Photographer Hordur Ingason Creative Michael Kristensen Grooming Nikolaj H端bbe Lasse Pedersen/Agentur Grooming Sam Shimoun/Scoop Artists
Nikolaj H端bbe Artistic Director shirt Ben Sherman Bracelet Shamballa How often do you wear a white shirt? 3-4 times a week Which Nordic designer is your favorite? Lindeberg and Acne What is your personal style/look? Street executive Your life philosophy? 10 minutes at a time Your favorite movie? Everything from Hitchcock and French Film Noir NM03 PAGE40
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Niels Wegener Attorney tux shirt Ben Sherman How often do you wear a white shirt? Several times a week in my job as an attorney Which Nordic designer is your favorite? COS and Phillipa K Best purchase for the wardrobe? A summer blazer from Hugo Boss Your life philosophy? To show respect. This is the foundation for tolerance, business and love What makes you happy? My children. And to be involved with projects I feel passionate about
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Kristoffer Sakurai Creative Consultant shirt Day Birger et Mikkelsen What is your personal style/look? Raw elegance Best purchase for the wardrobe? A crisp T-Shirt, the perfect jeans and a beautiful structured coat How often do you play sports? I have danced most of my life Your favorite travel destination? Paris and Deia (Mallorca) Outfit Asger Juel Larsen
Necklace Johnny Ramli at Graff
What makes you happy? Sneakers Nike Ball Fil de Love Fer
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Jacob Dujardin Marketing Executive shirt Day Birger et Mikkelsen How often do you wear a white shirt? Every week because of my job What is your personal style/look? Rock Bohemian Which Nordic designer is your favorite? Day Birger Et Mikkelsen and Acne Your career goal? Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m living it now as international marketing manager Your favorite movie? Bar Fly
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Poul Høilund D. Cruise Architect shirt Acne What is your personal style/look? Casual cool Which Nordic designer is your favorite? Jean Phillip Best purchase for the wardrobe? Ann Demeulemeester Blazer Your life philosophy? Take it â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but take it easy Your favorite travel destination? Tokyo
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Lasse Stokholm Business School Student shirt Acne How often do you wear a white shirt? Couple of times a week Which Nordic designer is your favorite? Jannik Olander/Nialaya Best purchase for the wardrobe? My new tailored suit from tiger of Sweden Favorite movie? Shawshank Redemption Your life philosophy? Smile and be good to people around you. Fight for your goals in this life. NM03 PAGE46
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taIloring Words Sixten Ditlefsen Photo Zinna Brigh Mac-Eochaidh
A notion for details and who you are, beyond mandatory black, white and light blue solutions. A portrait of Ambiente and the thought behind.
A growing digitalized and tendency of mass production, has manifested even more impersonal experiences and satisfaction of acquiring a piece of clothing for oneself. Martin Lyngsøe EjskjÌr a co-founder of the tailoring suit company Ambiente, provokes new ways in an old historical establishment. In our time the analogue and almost ceremonial event of buying a tailored piece of cloth is utterly distant. The feeling of the material and the affection of the quality. The smell of cloth meeting you, and the humble gentleman who will be the medium and bring your piece to the world, is an almost forgotten world.
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What does Ambiente mean?
Who works for you?
“Ambiente means atmosphere and environment. This is what we
“The best people we have are not trained. We actually had
aim to create on all levels. We want to deliver what fits exactly
salespeople who went to nurse-school. They are really good at
into the atmosphere of our client. At the same time our drive
talking to people and focusing on the more soft values. It makes
is based upon a philosophy of enriching instead of robbing the
costumers open up. This is absolutely not a cocky nor ice cold
environment. That stems from the way we run our production
business.”
and trade, at our tailors and their employees in Asia. We want to bring Denmark to Asia, instead of Asia to Denmark.”
What’s in the future for you?
Martin and his partners frequently go on unannounced visits to
“In the future we will still be face to face with people to advise
their foreign producers. They make random checks, analyze the
them. But after this and as soon as your goals and cuts are mea-
materials, and observe the working conditions.
sured, a virtual puppet of you is created that can be opened with
Ambiente was created on a basis of a friendship, 2,800 Danish
a personal login on the Internet. Here you can combine materi-
kroner and a zeal for supplying and being a lot more and nothing
als, colors, patterns, styles and see how it will look on the virtual
less in terms of quality.
representation of yourself. This is in the process of being created. We will eventually become an international brand that people
What are Ambientes values? “We focus on the fun and enjoyment of buying a tailored suit.
will embrace fashion wise.”
Companies come to events where we speak and advise on the
What status does a suit represent?
material, production, and not least the whole story behind it.
“I had difficulties with suits in the beginning. I didn’t feel
When our clients are waiting to be measured, they can sit down
ready to wear a suit. I see the suit as a manifestation of a
and taste fine wine. It gets people into the mood and ready for a
person’s character. When a person is established and has
chat about what will look good on them. It is important to take a
achieved success, that is often when he puts on a suit. I don’t
person’s features, body type, skin and hair color into account. It is become a different person when I put on a suit. But I feel that a bashful situation and when we started we saw that people just
it reinforces my signal and my character. I believe Ambiente
wanted what everyone else had, and therefore chose the typical
dresses people for success.”
black suit with a white or blue shirt.”
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Seduced by
Henrik Vibskov Words & Photo Pawet Bignell
Hello Sir, would you like a glass of champagne? This was the first question flung at me from behind a marble fort by a barely visible soft spoken Spanish woman. I asked her if this was a rhetorical question. After no reply I nodded rhythmically to the tinkle of a glass as it danced its way over towards me like a flamboyant cabaret act. I told her to keep the bottle fresh as my return would be imminent.
Mallorca. Orange trees, the salted air, chlorine, cheap cologne
After a brief stagger in the drunken heat, a plunge in the salty
- the smell of departure. I arrived at the hotel with two other
crisp sea and a fried dissected squid, I was probed by excitement
journalists from the Scandinavian team who sipped orange juice
towards the other journalists. There was an air of anticipation
quietly on the balcony, I wondered if they were ill. We moved
and intrigue, which usually comes before viewing a range or
away from each other naturally, like we were all on alterna-
seeing any show for that matter, whether it’s high fashion or a
ting conveyer belts, helplessly retracting from formalities. The
cock fight. But, Vibskov is an enigmatic soul, and usually comes
thought of Copenhagen seemed alien: a line of red-eared coots in
with a goody bag full of surprises and wondrous splendor. I he-
queues stretching past the train tracks, clasping sausages whilst
ard through the grape vine that we would be traveling to a small
wearing mattresses in the splintering wind. This whole imagery
beach on the other side of the island at dusk: how terribly roman-
reminded me why I was here, ah, to view a new range of clothing
tic I thought. We all crammed ourselves into an assortment of
from Henrik Vibskov’s ‘On the Beach’ collaboration with the
vehicles provided by the Vibskov entourage. A quick jaunt and
Mediterranean lifestyle brand Medwinds.
we were there. The destination was a secluded beach named Cala
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I heard through the grape vine that we would be traveling to a small beach on the other side of the island at dusk.
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Why Mallorca? “I think it’s pretty exciting to be able to place you in a strange setting, such as the hotel we all live in.”
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Agulla, which drapes itself upon the eastern tip of the island. Feeling a pinch ignorant, I asked other journalists what they were expecting, and too my selfish relief, most knew squat. A slight haze gently blurred the sanguine landscape, tranquilizing the heat for our presence. Curves everywhere, from the hills to the sea messaged rocks; I immediately saw the attraction to this specific taste of land. A crescent of chairs enveloped what was to be the main performance stage, an orchestration of bamboo sticks lovingly plunged into the sand casually holding a canvas â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a certain arrangement on the conventional tent â&#x20AC;&#x201C; void of the principle practicalities. The canvases curves whispered homage to the land in which it stood, and the light caressed every
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The canvases curves whispered homage to the land in which it stood, and the light caressed every peak and turn.
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Straw hats, strict lines, long practical and beautifully crafted shorts.
peak and turn, anything more elaborate in such light and sur-
would become a depository for drunken journalists reluctant to
roundings would have interrupted the organic flow. After a few
go home â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I saw no bulging crotches or dynamic boob displays,
fruity and sugary drinks, a gradual pull towards the seating area
but a regimented line of kids uniformly approaching us in the
was mutually received. We sat, waiting, mumbled remarks to
phantasmagorical light.
each other and smoked casually. Surely this is a swimwear col-
Straw hats, strict lines, long practical and beautifully crafted
lection, why else Mallorca, why else on this beach, we pondered
shorts, by god, this is a scout fashion show I exhaled in strange
in growing uncertainty. The drink was large and I was juggling it
delight. All of the clothes are made in Spain but the hats, which
between a smoke and my camera. And then. DRONE. Numerous
come from a long line of traditional Danish production methods.
speakers splotched around the beach began to emanate David
Sunglasses that were as practical as a tent disco ball were worn
Lynch esque tones of dark ambiance, a theme to the setting sun,
with great confidence by local kids, who ritualistically went
nearly apocalyptic in its mood. Turning my head to the right
through repetitive motions, associated with the great outdoor
I saw the first model walk from the side of a hut â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which later
lifestyle of being boy scouts. These kids were cool, and they knew
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At this point it all began to make a lot more sense.
it too. Vibskov was keen on giving them, ‘A once in a lifetime experience’ but also to view his cloths in another perspective. Vibskov also wanted to bring a degree of appreciation towards what is, ’common.’ Not common in a degrading manner of class differentiation, but I think what he meant was, exposed knees ready to get cut, the odd chubby arm, and the general unrendered joy of being a kid. The sun slowly turned into a bulbous flare of sumptuous glowing orange light which pierced through the bamboo sticks and cast seemingly unending shadows across the sand, the structure became animated by the light.
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At this point it all began to make a lot more sense. The mothers
the Mediterranean lifestyle. Young and charming, with the pre-
with the odd exposed breast, fathers nonchalantly flaunting
sence of a quiet nun who chain smokes and fingers her rosemary
grandeur stomachs, and the floating band aid which mesme-
beads, Vibskov is modest, especially considering the mountain
rizingly swims eternally in the hotel pool: common. Vibskov
of work he has accomplished. Many articles I read, flaunt his
is perched upon a rock as he throws answers at the journalists
celebrity friends and admirers, but thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not very common, and I
who catch them to hide in their pockets. He is suave and relaxed,
wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mention it. After a few more alcoholic lubricants I assisted
unfazed by the lenses and the constant demand for his attention.
Vibskov dismantle the wooden sculpture, which previously
After we finish the interview, we all congress in a wooden hut for
provided us with never-ending shadows. I think to myself, what
drinks and delightfully welcomed tapas. Once the sun stopped
other designer gets journalists to partake in manual labor after
teasing us with its strip show of light, we settle into a night of
a show? I also think to myself, if all this is common, then, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m
drinking and music. We all felt welcome and Vibskov joins us
happy being as common as muck.
with his wife and child to celebrate, very much in the mood of
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Persons Words Lasse William Ladefoged / Laura Petersen
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Photo Jasper & Botan
Spa heir Frederik Østerby. 25. Heir to the family owned Ni’mat spa in Copenhagen.
What is Ni'mat Spa? Ni’mat Spa is a universe of minimalism inspired by Asia. We have an atmosphere that makes even the busiest businessman/woman forget stress and worries as soon as they walk in the door. Our spa is the place, where our focus is on body treatment, care and excellent service. Our staff always have a positive and value-adding approach to what we can do for our guests.
What has been the biggest challenge since you chose to follow your family’s footsteps and start WORKING FOR Ni’mat Spa? Readjusting from the army. Coming from a masculine world, and moving to a feminine occupation, working with a lot of women. Changing from camouflage paint to one of our luxury products like Rudolph Care.
Which animal do you identify with? A Red Deer. I have already one tattooed on my leg. And I have a “full size” deer standing in my a partment. It is also a symbol of my group of friends.
On the top of your head: Books? Jo Nesbø (Norwegian writer) Summer? Copenhagen Drink? Whisky/Cola Car? Audi Religion? Atheist
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Photo Stephan Schnedler Knitwear Burberry Prorsum Stylist Jesper Hentze / Scoop Artists
HOCKEY TALENT Lars Eller. 23. Professional ice hockey player currently playing for the Montreal Canadiens organization of the National Hockey League (NHL). He is one of the highest ever drafted Danish born and trained player in NHL history.
How did you develop as a hockey player?
How can you get better? Both playing for Montreal and for the national team I work to
I am constantly getting better. I have more responsibilities and develop my offensive capabilities. multiple roles on the team. Just look at the statistics.
What is the difference between the U.S. and Canada?
Do you plan to stay in Montreal? Yes. My agent is currently working on a contract renewal for
In the U.S. the audience love you, if things are going well. On the 2 more years. other hand, they turn their back on you if you are on a bad streak. I like Montreal a lot. It is a city with great hockey traditions. It has
What are your greatest moments?
won the Stanley Cup 24 times and there is a strong support from When I won the Swedish U20 championship with Frölunda and the entire city. Whether we’re doing good or bad.
when I was drafted to the NHL.
Who were your idols as a kid?
What was it like being traded?
When I was a kid, the hockey players we looked up to, were from A strange feeling. I had not seen it coming. I got a phone call from the Swedish league. At that time no Danes had had their break- my general manager. The conversation took 20 seconds and then through in the United States. Now we have several and it’s great to Montreal was my new club. be a part of that movement. It is also obvious that the interest in hockey in Denmark has incre-
Your leisure time?
ased with our success in the NHL. It feels great to be a role model Playing golf, tennis, basketball. Riding in my BMW 535 for young hockey players in Denmark, and I love to play for the I’m married and my wife is pregnant. Danish national team.
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Photo Pawet Bignell
The Host Karim Nielsen 46. CEO of Brøchner Hotels. The chain consists of 4 hotels and 5 restaurants, all in Copenhagen. Has Denmarks only Boutique Hotels where guests can buy the interior. The Danish concept of “Hygge” is central to Brøchner Hotels. What is hygge? Tough one. It is a warm welcome. A welcome at eye level. A feeling of a nice place to be. A hotel is where you charge your batteries for whatever you’re doing in the city you’re visiting. We always have a fireplace on our hotels. On winter days we have it gAoing. We of places you don’t see that. It seems the guy is just standing there have books and a relaxed atmosphere. There is always a “cozyness for his monthly wage. factor” at our hotels. And it’s important to serve good coffee. And The most important thing is consistency in the service. Everyone not ripping off our guests. We try to be fair.
What are foreigners coming to Copenhagen fascinated by? By the simplicity. And the beauty. That the Danes are happy and
at a hotel should perform the same level of service. Otherwise it’s all the same. And that’s the toughest part.
What does it take to be the host for whoever comes in?
helpful, when they meet us in the street. And everyone speaks It takes a skill to communicate what I want guests to experience English. They see Copenhagen as this fairytale city. The whole when they come to our hotels. Communicating that we have atHans Christian Andersen thing coheres perfectly with their per- tractive concepts that they enjoy. A good bed to sleep in. And nice ception of Copenhagen. And they are fascinated by our bicycle cul- places to be and hang out. ture, and start renting bikes as soon as they get here.
How is the service culture in Denmark?
What does Copenhagen Fashion Week mean for your business? A lot. Fashion Week is two times a year, and it’s essential that Co-
Unfortunately, Danes have an arrogant approach to service. Ma- penhagen as a city has a coolness factor. That it is in the worlds top ximum service would be to comply every wish the costumer has. 15 of most trendsetting cities. Because the more successful Fashion Everything should be possible for the guest. We might be a little Week is, the more people from the industry and around it will come spoiled in our upbringing, and not being as willing to please co- to Copenhagen. Which will give a huge boost to our industry. stumers at all costs. There is even a difference between Danes and obey orders from a management. Danes ask questions about eve-
What is the best hotel you ever stayed in?
rything all the time.
Hotels are my passion and I have stayed in endless hotels. But two
Swedes. Swedes are more industrially raised, and more used to
are my favorites. Caesar Augustus on Capri, Italy and Four SeaThe Danish service culture lacks humbleness, definitely. And pri- sons Costa Rica. Of course the products where perfect. But what de. Pride in being in service. If you are a concierge, you should feel made them special was the service. The staff just met the costupride to give everyone who comes by, a great experience. But a lot mers on a perfect level.
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Photo Jasper & Botan
Creative passion Christian Bak 39. Owner of Nag People
What makes you laugh? Billy Montana and my daughter.
What is Nag People? Nag People is a Danish fashion company, creating and shaping creativity that stems from an individualistic expression driven by passion. In Nag People we help each other and everyone gets creative freedom reflecting their own personality. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how Nag People helps designers and creative people, to organizing their lives.
Where do you see Nag People in the future? Unity is a keyword for Nag People. Gathering a color pallet of individuals, where everyone has the freedom to create with
On the top of your head:
no limitations. Nag People is a flat structure. I should not be
Book? American Psycho
deciding the agenda. The meaning of Nag People is that eve-
Sex? Doggy style
ryone is part of a creative spiral stemming from individual-
Religion? Christianity and Buddhism
ity. That is why NAGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s logo is a fish, symbolizing the flat struc-
Travel? As much as possible
ture. And the bubbles are our communication to the people.
Work? As little as possible
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Photo Jasper & Botan
LUXURY Michael Johansen 46. Branch Manager, Jaguar Danmark A/S
What has been the biggest challenge since you started? To market the business and make our products visible to customers. I believe I have made the business more transparent and introduced more modern tools for sale. I have also created a good atmosphere for the employees in the store. How do Nordic men dress in relation to other men? I think they dress boring and too conservative.
What makes you laugh? High spirits - happy people. I laugh very easily.
Where do you see yourself in the future? I see us in more places than today. Both our brands (Jaguar and Aston Martin) usually have relatively small market shares. A brand like Ferrari sells 28 cars in Denmark a year. We want to reach that same number for Aston Martin.
Which pet would you prefer? A dog, because they come when you call for it.
Which animal do you identify with? A lion - because it is large and dangerous.
When was the last time you laughed? 5 min. ago
Who are you? I am very much myself and I do what I want. I am very independent and see myself as creator and entrepreneur, which sometimes gets me into trouble. But then life goes on. I also put my values â&#x20AC;&#x2039;â&#x20AC;&#x2039;very highly. Honesty and integrity are my keywords. Lastly I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t compromise on my own values.
Three advices? Be yourself, trust yourself, and be good to each other.
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Photo Yassine Lazib
Right here, right now Mik Thobo Carlsen 37. Owner of Mitioca
What was your last dream? I dreamed, that I found a secret gold stock in a game called “Minecraft”. Mind you, it is not a game I play, but a game I have heard of.
What is Mitioca? An investment company, primarily investing in IT, but also open to exciting projects such as Play 31, where I am on the board.
What has been the biggest challenge since you started? There are always challenges. The biggest is finding the right people. I meet many people who want to create more business for the wrong reasons. The vast majority could make money if they had the right idea. Economics are not the only driving factors.
What is your life advice? A quote from Jeppe Hein: “I’m right here, right now.”
On the top of your head: Sex? Love Food? Spaghetti with bacon Clothes? Jeans and a t-shirt Holidays? New York Music? Pop
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Photo Yassine Lazib
Skin Expert Ida Bille Brahe. 46. Founder/CEO of N'age, specializing in skin rejuvenating treatments. Founded in 2003, and now with 13 employees in 3 clinics. Trained nurse, worked for several years at heart/lung surgical ward at a hospital. What does N’age mean? N’age = “No age”. Today, people are becoming more and more aware of their look, since it means a lot and also gives a large value of life for many. Especially women who want to “age with grace”.
What has been the biggest challenge since you started? To explain to the Danes what treatments we have and what it can do for each indivi-
However, they are not near the Italian or
dual. But also what Restylane is and how it
French men, with their unique look and
How do people perceive you?
is used. I’ve been very clear in my commu-
the masculine arrogant attitude they ex-
Very focused.
nication and the challenge has been to get
press through how they dress.
I am originally a nurse and then studied to
the right message out there. But I have been alive and kicking for 9 years and I have had great success.
How do you think the Nordic men dress compared to men internationally?
WHY IS IT IMPORTANT THAT MEN CARE ABOUT THEIR APPEARANCE?
become a sales manager. The fact that I’m passionate about something has always made me stick to my plans.
It is equally important for men and women to care about their look. We form an
On the top of your head:
expression of people as fast as lightning.
Food? Foie Gras
How old they are and if they look happy.
Gifts? Flowers
It varies widely. Some men dress very
Wrinkles, for instance, can be very mis-
Clothes? Stilettos
well, and some do not. In general, I think
interpreted. If you do not look good, that’s
Drink? Mojito
the “casual” is the “general rule” and the
what people focus on instead of focusing
Animal? Panther
common feature of Nordic style. And Da-
on the individual.
nish businessmen are dressing quite well.
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Photo Jasper & Botan
Gourmet to the people Kristian Vangsgaard. 39. Owner of Gourmet Food Brand Group. Including Lauras Bakery, Darlenes Frozen Yoghurt and Bastardo Coffee. What has been the biggest challenge since you started? There is a lot of them. A big one is “keeping everybody happy”. Investors, suppliers, collaborators, employees. Plus all the practical on the personal side.
What makes you happy? Lots. Happy people telling happy stories. Twosomeness and becoming someone’s best friend. And then ribbing on each other.
How do you think the Scandinavian men dress in relation to other men? They could learn something from the Italian men, the French men and the trendy Americans. To have an individual expression. I think it’s great to wear a suit every day.
What is your last dream? To be running food and beverage companies, and cash money on that, and work with movies.
Where are you in 10 years? A place, where I am making my first film production.
What’s your best advice? You should always behave nicely and treat people the way you want to be treated. You have to have the energy to help others. And think before you act.
On the top of your head: Music? From the 70’s Travel? Bali Body part? A cute butt Car? Buick Nordic Man? Coolness
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Accelerator What is Ofelia Fashion Week? OFW is a consumer platform of fashion and lifestyle that launches for the first time this forthcoming Fashion
Jesper Emil. 33. Copenhagen. CO-Founder of Ofelia Fashion Week.
Week, August 2012. OFW will be running simultaneously with the official Copenhagen Fashion Week program, and will work as a cultural oasis of fashion and design.
Where do you want it to go? OFW aims to create an accessible Fashion Week off-set in Copenhagen. In the end, the consumers are the opinion leaders of what goes - or not - when it comes to the creations presented by the designers. Because of this, we find it natural to reach out to the consumers, by offering a platform to engage them in Fashion Week. I want OFW to become better every season - not necessarily bigger.
What is the biggest challenge? That everything we do is done for the first time! This requires extra time and is sometimes met by skeptical minds, on the way to take off. We have a strong concept, yet no guarantee of success. That is also what makes this project exciting. A new day always means a new challenge - and that’s the biggest challenge - never knowing what to expect.
Why should men care about their appearance? The concept of ‘survival of the fittest’ has been challenged lately - Your appearance makes your way. That’s why we men cannot neglect to care about our appearances. This goes for work, social life, sports life etc. Human Beings, are gregarious animals, and we need to stand out within a certain group, that we see our selves as part of. I see appearances as the fundament of the modern way of life.
Where do you see yourself in the future? In the future I see my self anywhere else, than yesterdays’ position. I try to always be on the move - with a backpack of experiences . My personal ambition is simple; To move forward – the direction is less important. As long as I am in motion, I will get there.
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Photo Zinna Brigh Mac- Eochaidh
The Gentlemanish Suit Pusher David K / David Christian Krarup 38. Founder and head of Herrernes Magasin, making tailor made quality suits. Clothing/lifestyle expert on Danish TV. Also instigator of the “Gentlemanish Tours” in Copenhagen.
What is gentlemanish? It is about etiquette. And attitude towards each other. We can’t
So how can we all be more gentlemanish?
be complete gentlemen all the time. But you can be a little gentle- It takes respect for each other. We all have qualities. And we can manish every day. It is about how you dress. But you can also be all do special things. And if we look at strangers, and remember gentlemanish towards colleagues. Toward family and friends. It that they have qualities, that we cannot see or know about, it is eacould be calling an old friend. Getting off the bike when pulling it sier to be a gentleman towards others. And when you start being across the street so you don’t scare old ladies. But gentlemanish is it towards others, you start being a little more light and pleasant not only duties. It is also putting some luxury into your life. And a to yourself. way to be old school.(Image of gentlemen in the 1800’s)
What do you want? I want to put style into men, who were abandoned by their grand-
People are too hard on themselves. They should miss who they are, when they all of a sudden end up in a bed at a hospital.
Who is the Nordic Man?
fathers. Lots of stores don’t educate their costumers the way they The beauty of the Nordic man is that he likes looking at himself in should. I wish the gentlemanish thought was spread out, so we the mirror. He sees himself from the best side. He looks at himself had a heart in what we do and the way we look. Caring about our with a glimpse in his eye. The Nordic man is easy doing business appearance.
Who is David K?
with for me. The luxury of being a suit pusher for men is that men go out to buy. We don’t go out to shop and browse. Our nature is going out to solve
I am “caught up” in several businesses that are doing well. That a problem. In this case the problem being the need of a suit. means a lot of administration and duties, and easily getting caught K, who is actually not connected to the businesses. He can freely
What is the biggest problem in men’s fashion today?
speak as an expert, without representing any of the companies.
That men all seem so afraid to be stylish. Some are frightened, and
up in banalities. To escape that, I made an alter ego that is David
I started using David K as a tool to gentlemanish the place a little, most just lack the imagination. Especially when it comes to color. after I was diagnosed with cancer in 2010. I was in the hospital I think men are afraid not to fit in. More men should just confront and got a lot of chemo. When I was lying there, I didn’t really miss their fears regarding clothes, like they confronted smaller fears my job. At that point I decided to have a little extra fun with the when they were kids. Fear of wearing green or purple is like fear possibilities I had. The disease made me see, that I was on the right of water. Just jump in. track, and what I had been doing all along should just be put in a box that was easily accessible for my costumers to understand. So I focused on certain areas instead of just doing everything whenever I felt like it. I think if I were to be sick again, I would miss my job more.
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Eyewear Ørgreen Sweater SNS Herning Watch Omega Jeans Mr. Freedom Shoes København K
Photographer Theodor synnestvedt Stylist Xavier Model Alexander Clothing maritine-antiqes.dk
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DESIGN Kasper Salto & Thomas Sigsgaard
Photo Pawet Bignell Pawet Bignell
Salto and Sigsgaard Clasping my camera like a newborn and rummaging my bike through the congested streets of the Latin Quarter in downtown Copenhagen, I eventually stumbled upon the office of the design team, Kasper Salto and Thomas Sigsgaard. The partners recently set up office on Sankt Peders Stræde - previously a multitude of bike shops and other little pokes of interest - and now a vibrant display of cafes and artists workshops. Initially I wasn’t sure if I arrived at the right spot, for the window had an ambiguous display of being either: a toyshop, tool shop, concept clothes store or the local ye Olde curiosity outlet. Nonetheless, it was what the barely legible strip of paper that I previously deposited in my trousers read, and thus I entered.
Kasper, who was gleaming with creativity and a sense of calmed
The two, who had previously known each other through
focus, welcomed me. Immediately I ripped out my camera like
brief encounters, met on a professional basis when Thomas
a flasher at a bus stop and started shooting the, ‘3d pin boards’
offered Kasper a space in his Christianshavn studio to final-
which displayed regimentally hung tools shinning in ornamen-
ise the design on his Ice chair.
tal glory, nautical utilities, horns and other bits and bobs that
“One discussion led to another and suddenly we had a lamp,”
brought a sense of juvenile charm to the place. I received a whiff
they explained. Reviewing their first lamp, ‘the nosey’,
of coffee before I was offered some, as did I witness a colourful
which snuggled the corner of the room; the partners looked
flutter of Thomas rushing to finish an errand before I met him.
retrospectively at each other like an old married couple
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gleaming endearingly at their framed wedding photographs.
commission, the secretarial chair for the trusteeship chamber at
One major difference between them is certainly their educa-
the UN. The duo, who won a competition to advance and modern-
tion – Thomas an architect and Kasper a designer. “It is like
ise the chamber for an ever growing number of UN states, also
looking at things both big and small,” Kasper reflects in a
found themselves walking in the footsteps of previous designer,
philosophical manner. Both have very similar upbringings,
Finn Juhl.
with mothers as artists and fathers as architects, so a se-
“We wanted to keep the soul of the room,” affirms Thomas, and
lected understanding of aesthetics and practicality provides
undoubtedly a part of that ‘soul’ belongs to Finn and his very
a mutual backbone to their thought process.
physically intimate body hugging lines. “We knew Finn Juhl, but for this project we really had to get to
Descending into the basement, which has a large conference table
know him,” Thomas expresses rather theatrically, like he was a
and busy whiteboards, I notice the workings of their most recent
method actor deciphering the mind of a great mathematician for
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an upcoming role. The chair displays a sensual curvature which is gained through thin layers of wood glued together for heightened malleability. “We use techniques that Finn would have loved to use in his time.” Thomas jumps from the table were we had been sitting to show me a sample of the pressed wood; I surrender to the effects of the strong coffee and jump up too, relieving my forced stillness. The room is regarded highly in the UN and is a favourite amongst those who are lucky to visit. And with this came much more consideration.
“The material we used is not only in homage to Finn, but also aids the acoustic quality of the room.” Which many attendees have enjoyed. The previous design by Finn has endured for nearly sixty years, not only in terms of durability but also style, and it is still much loved. I wondered what they thought about Danish design and its ability to survive trends, and how they can advance on Finn’s: “New designers need to say something new, they can’t fall into the marketing cloud that was Danish design which spanned from the greats of Arne Jacobsen,” stamps Thomas prophetically. Asking a designer and an architect what inspires them is a tricky one. “We don’t necessarily get inspired, we see a problem and look to make it better,” Kasper states; as I scavenge around to bespoke my next round of questions.
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The two, who had previously known each other through brief encounters met on a professional basis when Thomas offered Kasper a space in his Christianshavn studio to finalise the design on his Ice chair.
The couple are practitioners; the shape of the chair is shaped to
I’m looking away from my computer and see the light catch a
the consideration of the body, the wood for acoustical resonance,
certain material, it can be a point of reference.”
the size and height for movement and comfort. “We don’t just look at a piece of blank paper and wait for inspi-
The partners believe that Copenhagen is the right place for their
ration, it is just plain old hard work,” they say proudly yet with
design team to reside, not only because they have set up family
a certain secretive gleam in their eyes. I try to re-establish my
here but also because, “there is a good tradition here, we are
cause for inspiration, and ask them about all the collections of
good at thinking a lot before we do something.”
items that decorate the walls.
Both Kasper and Thomas provide a certain charm, eager and
“I have a tool fetish,” says Kasper unblinkingly, as I slowly avert
professional yet capricious and playful. They built a spinning
my gaze towards Thomas who admits that,
top recently together, and on time off, Thomas admits to building
“They are things that we enjoy looking at, and of course when
a mobile cart out of driftwood and shells. For his kid of course.
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T-shirt Salvor Projects
A L I E N Photographer Herring & Herring Stylist Xavier Grooming Scott Mc Mahan/Agent Oliver Model Matt Waters/New York Model Management
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Jacket Henrik Vibskov
Shirt Salvor Projects Pant Soulland Necklace Maria Black Jewellery
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Shirt Salvor Projects Pant Soulland Necklace Maria Black Jewellery NM03 PAGE84
Shoes Converse
Scarf Salvor Projects Necklace Maria Black Jewellery Pant Henrik Vibskov Shoes Converse NM03 PAGE85
T-shirt Salvor Projects Shorts Private Public NM03 PAGE86
Bag Salvor Projects Shoes Converse
T- shirt Salvor Projects Pant Henrik Vibskov Blue Garbage Bag
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Jacket Gant Rugger Polo T Schiesser Revival Belt Holding up the trousers Pant Mr. Freedom Socks Private Public Shoes Prada Photographer Theodor synnestvedt Stylist Xavier Morales Model Alexander Clothing maritine-antiqes.dk
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The art of berzerk Danish festivals Words Morten Vammen
Ever since the Vikings had a good time painting their bodies blue, drinking urine from tripping mushroom-eating bambies and setting London on fire, the Danes have practiced the art of Berzerk, to transcend social norms and themselves through wild parties.
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Distortion is the official hipster Christmas, and hordes of bearded canned beer drinking men with bicycles - without brakes - crawl the street lamps until sunrise.
Danes have a fetish for the community, filling their calendars
hagen has to an official city fair, where roads are closed and the
with a cornucopia of festivals. To meet new people outside ones
locals set up their sound systems to reclaim the urban space as if it
own segment is a Danish national sport - especially while sharing
was Paris in 1968 without tear gas and riots. Everywhere a heavy
a quality beer with culture - is practically a civic duty. Search the
bass drum is pulsating, pounding that infinite global primal
web for everything from niche historical Golden Age festivals,
beat through a week of street parties, where the Danes showcase
food festivals, the gay pride to the exotic music festivals. The mother of all DK festivals is the Woodstock-inspired Roskilde, 90,000 pretty and confused fake hippies praise a mix of icons from the past; Bruce, Cure, Kraftwerk, Chic, Iggy, Wu-Tang - and a lot of Scandinavian indie crying-radio-rock. The festivalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s real main course is the masochistic Bangladesh-ish style tent camp, where people smoke earth-hookahs, binge with Finnish hardcore punks in piss-tents, share incredibly bad food and dank toilets, practice nudism in a lake or get a tattoo with their new dirty best friends. There is a VIP/media area for wannabes, bloggers, c-celebs and control freaks that snatch each others intoxicants and backstage passes. The backstage area is filled with roadies and musicians on botox and vitamin water. So back in the tent inferno, where you are happy in sweaty waders on MDMA jamming to museum-rock while all holes itch and the air is a little too vivid. You snog a bass player with beerstains and bitch tits, it rains so the urine dust is replaced by stamped manure air. A blogger pukes in the fence while a roadie and all the former classmates you had happily suppressed fills themselves with beer and marijuana. Fortunately, a more urbane and elegant alternative has grown strong over the last 10 years: Distortion is the closest thing Copen-
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their most empathetic and social skills - enjoy crazy stomping
has a fine tradition of nerdcore ambient, but these days it is play-
parties on rooftops, in boats, in open buses or in a matrix of the
ish and funky. Maybe it’s the long winters, the abundance of qual-
underground nightclubs and disused factories. Where Roskilde
ity pot and gentle unemployment fund system that does it, but it is
sucks up to a more provincial youth fan boy crowd, Distortion is
clear that oceans of time has been spent on cultivating the Danish
the official hipster Christmas, and hordes of bearded canned beer
sound in home studios. The Strøm Festival is set in a charming
drinking men with bicycles - without brakes - crawl the street
park, in the über cool Copenhagen quarter Vesterbro, and is the
lamps until sunrise.
big nerd party where everyone is bringing a backpack containing
Distortion is a rave-olution, but should focus on a more serious
their Labtop studio, and wears indefinable post hipster non-
Sonar-like approach if it is to keep the momentum. Right now
uniforms.
Distortion risks ending up as corporate-boring as Roskilde, but if you only have a week in Copenhagen, you still have a chance, to
Copenhell is 3 days dedicated to all evil, dark and metallic music,
see a beautiful city become an outdoor rave crammed with polite
from Manson to Antrax to Slayer - and lots of Norwegian church-
gene-strong people aged 15-60, dancing into each other in their
burner killer metal, satanic priests, Dungeons and Dragons guys
own magic streets.
in Matrix-robes, very few girls dressed as Playstation characters, retro-Vikings, Goths, skins, embroidered metal-logo-patch jackets
An antidote to Distortions messy style is the Strøm Festival:
and goatees. When the bands fire up, it smells like shampoo
Finally, a festival of new music being more than an excuse for
everywhere because of all the head banging. A huge fire canon
beer pushing. The festival is free, like Distortion, and the headlin-
creates heat and pressure waves, and if you want to wrestle with
ers are typically top names from the ambient elite. But it’s really
luscious half naked lads and bears in the mud in front of the stage,
exciting part is the young anonymous post-techno/post-dubstep
Copenhell is a must. No VIP, no fashion anxiety, just nerds and
producers that play their brand new compositions live. Denmark
freaks playing Vikings as they watch men rubbing phallic guitars
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Taboo music: for the more calm people, the Copenhagen Jazz Festival is an oasis. 120 concerts a day in bars and smoke-filled jazz clubs - with everything from the meanest fuzak, to New Orleans to young Scandinavian electro-jazz-dub.
in very tight pants and singing effeminate falsetto songs about knights and motorcycles. Maybe it’s outdated, but it’s a feast for the eyes. Taboo music: for the more calm people, the Copenhagen Jazz Festival is an oasis. 120 concerts a day in bars and smoke-filled jazz clubs - with everything from the meanest fuzak, to New Orleans to young Scandinavian electro-jazz-dub. Maybe it seems outdated to watch a lot of white old men imitating drugged negroes from the 1950s. Maybe it’s obscene to see beard bears with Borsalino hats sucking on something that looks like a draft beer system in an endless solo. But put on your old sweater and hang out until the nightly post-gig jam sessions at Montmatre, Jazz House or La Fontaine, where the gap between stars and fans erode and people solo with their lives at stake, and there are queues to get on stage. Right there, you actually feel the magic very existing and present, especially in a world of autotune, blog-hop and Labtop-rock. We look forward to going Berzerk with you.
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Vest Mr. Freedom Polo T Schliesser Revival Belt Holding Up The Trousers Pant Mr. Freedom Watch Omega
Photographer Theodor synnestvedt Stylist Xavier Morales Model Alexander Clothing maritine-antiqes.dk
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BULLDOG Words & Photo Pawet Bignell
To a lot of the male community, entering the previously unexplored world of cosmetics may seem like going all out and getting a sex change. Such negative connotations usually act as forcing gales preventing the first initial steps down the, ‘male skin care aisle’ OR ‘surgery.’
These thoughts of: synthetic beauty, unnatural and alien
of instantaneous transformation into beefcake278.JPEG. It was
ingredients, and the thought of some indelible face al-
whilst searching for an organic and honest skincare product for
tering agent made from placentas, are enough to abort
his girlfriend that co-founder of Bulldog, Simon Duffy, came to
mission and continue stealing various products from their
realize the lack of similar products available to men. A product
female shipmates.
that ‘says what it does on the tube.’ Teaming up with his university friend Rhodri Ferrier they
The depersonalized male skincare product that appears along-
quickly recognized, what was not only a niche in the male groom-
side unrealistic and unattainable male beauty, does not appeal to
ing market, but more importantly, a product they wished for
the average man, but to his other half who revels in grave hope
themselves.
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The personal desire to create a product that encapsulates a good and effective male skincare range - which also has a strong ethical backbone - soon became the main ethos of the company, reflecting the, ‘like minded’ personal interests and beliefs of the two friends. As Ferrier proudly states: “The best ideas come from making something for oneself.” And as This may be one brand’s downfall. Lucky for Bulldog, their strong ethics and belief in sourcing entirely natural ingredients has hit a strong resonant note in the ever-growing universe of male cosmetics. Now growing to be a substantial competitor in the male grooming market - setting up shop in the prestigious Sephora – It is admirable how a small independent company has still managed to keep its individuality.
friends and clients on a personal level. The company doesn’t use abrasive marketing styles; they started out small and allowed
All the ingredients, sourcing and packaging information are
themselves to grow through word of mouth and more subtle
available on their website. Believing in reducing unnecessary
methods of communication, still trying out new ideas on close
transport of resources, Bulldog ensure all products are manufac-
friends. Having landed a major deal with the US company Whole
tured in the UK.
foods - which is the world’s largest retailer of organic foods -
“We think that transporting empty bottles and tubes from one
proves how well and confident the brand is at this stage.
country, filling them in another and selling them in a third is fundamentally damaging for the environment.”
The product range is what may be expected when catering for the
Bulldog proudly displays the BUAV (Ensuring all the Bingo’s and
male skincare customer: moisturizer, face scrubs and washes,
Lassie’s will live a full and healthy life) logo, and confidently asks
shaving gels and the essential shower gel. For those taking a step
doubtful customers to delve further into their certificates, as a
further into the pore free land of compliments, there is also the
nudge to do so with other leading brands. The guys also hope to
eye roll on. And for those taking another maybe more ethnical
encourage more recycling in the future.
leap towards a sore free mother Earth, there is the fair-trade prod-
“We’d love to use post-consumer recycled plastic in the bottles and ucts helping to alleviate impoverished areas in Ghana. For those tubes.”
of you who already dabble in skincare products and enjoy the benefits of smelling like the Mediterranean Sea breeze passing
The cream comes in a refreshing white tube with quirky graph-
through an olive tree, but reasonably suspect natural products
ics. People want something, ‘Real’ Ferrier says passionately, and
to smell like a swamp stench passed through a sock, I assure you
that’s why they base their market research on feedback from
these guys have done their research. The products smell fresh and distinctive, although not overpowering, much like a mild considered cologne. Having just recently penetrated Denmark, the guys wish to peruse with the rest of Scandinavia. But how do the Nordic clients differ from the other markets? “Well, each market is a different learning experience,” Ferrier says reflectively. But confident in the Nordic customer he feels that, “they are considered customers, who understand good quality and embrace natural products.” And whats the grander scheme for Bulldog? “We want to have a Bul ldog product in every bathroom.”
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Scents Photography Hordur Ingason
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Grooming Photography James Bates
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films
DARK SHADOWS 2012 / DIRECTOR Tim Burton
LOCKOUT 2012 / DIRECTORs James Mather, Stephen St. Leger
An imprisoned vampire, Barnabas Collins, is set free and returns to his ancestral home, where his dysfunctional descendants are in need of his protection.
A man wrongly convicted of conspiracy to commit espionage against the U.S. is offered his freedom if he can rescue the presidentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s daughter from an outer space prison taken over by violent inmates.
Flight 2012 / DIRECTOR Robert Zemeckis
SECRETARY 2002 / DIRECTOR Steven Shainberg
An airline pilot saves a flight from crashing, but an investigation into the malfunctions reveals something troubling.
A young woman, recently released from a mental hospital, gets a job as a secretary to a demanding lawyer, where their employer-employee relationship turns into a sexual, sadomasochistic one.
PARANORMAN 2012 / DIRECTORs Chris Butler, Sam Fell
THE BOURNE LEGACY 2012 / DIRECTOR TONY GILROY
A misunderstood boy who can speak with the dead, takes on ghosts, zombies and grown-ups to save his town from a centuries-old curse.
An expansion of the universe from Robert Ludlum's novels, centered on a new hero whose stakes have been triggered by the events of the previous three films.
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LAWLESS 2012 / DIRECTOR John Hillcoat
THE CAMPAIGN 2012 / DIRECTOR Jay Roach
Set in the Depression-era Franklin County, Virginia, a bootlegging gang is threatened by authorities who want a cut of their profits.
Two rival North Carolina politicians with presidential aspirations tangle with one another.
MAGIC MIKE 2012 / DIRECTOR STEVEN SODERBERGH
Anna Karenina 2012 / DIRECTOR Joe Wright
A male stripper teaches a younger performer how to party, pick up women, and make easy money.
Set in late-19th-century Russia high-society, the aristocrat Anna Karenina enters into a life-changing affair with the affluent Count Vronsky.
BAD INFLUENCE 1990 / DIRECTOR Curtis Hanson
TOTAL RECALL 2012 / DIRECTOR LEN WISEMAN
Michael, a wimpy young executive, is about to get pulverized by a jealous boyfriend in a bar when a handsome, mysterious stranger steps in--and then disappears.
A team of explorers discover a clue to the origins of mankind on Earth, A factory worker, Douglas Quaid, begins to suspect that he is a spy after visiting Rekall goes wrong and he finds himself on the run.
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BOOKS Making a come back !
This story takes you into the heart and mechanisim of the artists studio
The drama centers around wondering through Bukowskiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s alter ego A discussion of free will choosing between good and evil
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One of the most Influential artists of our time / monograph
Models, sex, terrorist, high fashion
Didion and her pschological difficulties can be traced through this work
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THE TRUTH ABOUT LIES Words Incognito Photographer Herring & Herring Model Nate Hill/NY Models
From banks to global corporations to entire continents, lying is becoming an epidemic. On a personal level, is lying just as prevalent? Are Scandinavians, who proudly promote a transparent society, also honest when it comes to intimate affairs of the heart? I asked a professional liar to tell me the truth.
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On the big screen, Hollywood has been known to glamorize liars,
Minister Benjamin Disraeli, “There are three kinds of lies:
creating empathy for them as endearing anti-heroes. Take the
lies, damned lies and statistics.”
comedy Liar, Liar, where a compulsive liar, played by Jim Carrey, has earned a reputation as the best defense lawyer around.
Alibis from an alias
Or the TV series Dexter, who is a forensics police expert by day
A.W.E. (not his real name, or is it?) considers himself a profes-
concealing the fact that he’s a murderer by night, killing crimi-
sional liar. He sees lying as an art form. As the basis of reality
nals who’ve eluded the law. In both cases, we’re talking deception, and even something that should be taught, like charm school. distortion, false pretenses and personal gain. Key motivators for
When asked for his insights on infidelity, he points out the dif-
liars.
ference between good liars and bad liars. “The best liars make you forgive them if they get caught,” says A.W.E., likening this
You lie like a rug
to the difference between Don Juan and Casanova. Don Juan
Off-screen in our private lives, most of us tell little white lies
was seen as a womanizer, who lied his way into the arms of
every day, like “But officer, the light was green.” Bigger lies
countless women. Whereas Casanova was a promiscuous,
have bigger consequences, such as seemingly innocuous
unscrupulous lover who lived largely on his charisma, per-
omissions about having an affair. Wikipedia defines infidelity as both physical and emotional intimacy relating not only to sex outside a relationship, but also to trust, betrayal, disloyalty and lying. But in Denmark, having sex doesn’t necessarily imply
suasive personality, quick
But in Denmark, having sex doesn’t necessarily imply a deep emotional attachment, hence committing adultery
wit, nerves of steel, incredible luck and the money he deceived people into giving him. He was also a liar, but everyone forgave him.
isn’t as frowned upon as it is, for example, in the states.
a deep emotional attachment,
“Lying is the driving force in life. It’s Darwinian,” claims A.W.E., whose most vivid
hence committing adultery isn’t as frowned upon as it is, for
early memories were of his family on stage “being something
example, in the states. According to statistics from Danish
they’re not. Since my parents worked in theatre, I saw them
TV2, almost 70% of Danes in relationships have had an affair.
act one way on stage and another way at home. I was always
In fact, general opinion is in favor of abolishing adultery as
exposed to different characters. From this I got to see more
grounds for divorce. It’s that inconsequential. (In contrast,
facets of reality.” He also concluded that lying was fundamen-
it was legal in Brazil until 1991 for a husband to murder his
tal to constructing a reality of his own choice. That he could
wife and her lover. Btw the same rights did not apply to the
write his own script, so to speak, act it out and alter it in any
wife.)
way to his liking.
What did create a flicker in the Northern lights was the in-
You got me flowers? You’re so sweet!
stant success of dating site victoriamilan.com from Norway,
As A.W.E. sees it, lying not only comes naturally, it’s a natural
whose slogan roughly translated from Danish is “Make your
part of the animal kingdom and their instincts for survival.
life more alive – Have an affair!”, claiming that they had
“There’s the natural lie, akin to camouflage,” explains A.W.E.
60,000 Danish users just three months after their launch
“Where a praying mantis will appear like leaves to fool preda-
in Denmark and up to 150,000 to date. Followed by a mush-
tors. There’s the artificial lie – like makeup. Trying to present
rooming effect of other such sites. Like adultfriendfinder.
ourselves in a more appealing way, as something we’re not.
com, which boasts “41,925,936 Members in Denmark, 111,992
Here lying is a fundamental factor in mating.” Followed by
Online NOW!” Interesting numbers, as Denmark is a popu-
what he terms the unconscious lie, arguing from ignorance.
lation of only 5,5 million. To quote former British Prime
The conscious lie, deliberately telling a falsehood to either
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gain or avoid something. An honest lie, meaning misconstru-
talent for perceiving, manipulating and portraying reality.
ing reality. The malicious lie, intended to hurt other people
How can I tell if he’s lying to me now? “A good liar will always
for personal gain. And storytelling. “Politicians use lies to
greet the lie, not avoid it,” explains A.W.E. “When people are
disguise reality. Artists use lies to display it,” smiles A.W.E.,
lying, they make eye contact. When they’re telling the truth,
alluding to Alan Moore, anarchist and underground writer
they don’t need to check your reaction. If someone’s looking at
known for the cult comic series 2000 Ad and the films V for
you for more than three seconds, they’re probably lying.”
Vendetta and Watchmen.
Is this scarf working for me?
What about lying when it comes to love? “Bringing a woman
Part of me is infatuated by the benefits of lying. At the same
flowers is a lie,” A.W.E. states matter-of-factly. “It’s not like he
time, I’m reminded of Henry Rollins’ hardcore song I’m a liar,
brought you flowers because he thought of you. He’s pre-
where he admits: “… Everything I say is everything you’ve ever
senting you with an offering because he wants something.”
wanted to hear, so you drop all your defenses and you drop all
Suddenly I flash to all the significant others in my past. Were
your fears. And you trust me completely… ‘cause I make you feel
all those flowers just a calculating, devious, manipulative,
so strong and so powerful inside. You feel so lucky but your ego
self-serving bargaining tool? An empty gesture just to get me
obscures reality. And you never bother to wonder why…” Here’s
into bed? Bastards! Now I know why roses have thorns. “Peo-
where he gets sinister, shouting “You wanna’ know why? ‘Cause
ple feel guilty about lying,” says A.W.E., trying to reassure
I’m a liar! Yeah I’m a liar! Ha ha ha, haa haa haa haa…” Intuitive-
me. “They’re motivated to lie out of fear of losing love, losing
ly, A.W.E. tells me that, of course, if you need an honest answer,
ties for their survival. Men have a natural tendency to not
be honest to begin with. As in ‘Is this scarf working for me?’ If
cope with their emotions. Women are better liars than men
we were brutally honest all the time, life would be unbearable.”
because they’re more used to it. A soccer mom smiling with two kids on each arm – she’s lying.”
Deny, Deny, Deny
Radical honesty is native to the Nordic countries. People tend to be blunt with their opinions – without a certain social finesse. A serious source of frustration for foreigners, as being negative
Motivated to make lying my new must-have personality trait,
isn’t seen as being honest. It’s simply seen negative, lacking in
what’s the skill set I need to become a pro? “It starts with be-
social skills and sophistication. A.W.E. enlightens me with the
ing honest with yourself about lying,” answers A.W.E. “The
story of Erasmus Montanus, a play by Ludvig Holberg about
ability to tell believable stories, to believe them yourself and
how a village snubbed their noses at a farmer’s son who went to
to perceive them as real. “Don’t be conscious of the fact that
Copenhagen for an education and returned discussing how the
you’re lying. If you’re cornered, just make up a more elabo-
earth is round, that it revolves around the sun, etc. A Janta Law
rate lie. The more detailed the better. Crucial to engineering a
mentality portrayed even more dramatically in Lars Von Trier’s
lie is anticipating ways to avoid entrapment. If you end up be-
dark yet illuminating film Dogville. “It’s the fear of anything or
ing caught, never admit you’re lying. Except in court. Listen to anyone different from ourselves,” notes A.W.E. “With brutal honyour lawyer.” (It’s no coincidence that A.W.E. is in law school.)
esty, everyone has the same low opinion. The villagers chastised
“When in doubt, deny, deny, deny. People will believe your lie
the farmer’s son as a way of making nothing sacred or secret. A
if you believe it yourself.”
deterrent for what they saw as artificial lies.”
Of course, I’m not promoting lying, as such. I’m not at all sug-
I do see his point that lying shapes reality. “If you want to navigate
gesting that my life would be sooooo much more interesting.
through reality, lying is your compass,” he adds. “It’s the stuff
That I’d have loads of lovers at my feet bearing roses without
reality is based on. You would be lying to yourself if you didn’t
thorns. Lapping up my beguiling and extremely believable
realize that.” But then again, he could be lying as we speak.
lies. On the other hand, A.W.E. is truly advocating the virtues of lying. He takes pride in his profession and his finely tuned
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Art view
NOMANs art Words Nomans Art
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l o st
gene r ati o n Photography Nicky de Silva Styling Mette Krogsgaard/WOW styling Grooming Vivi Pilgaar/Unique Look Models Malthe Lund Madsen/Elite Model Management Alexander/Elite Model Management Mikkel/Scoop Models
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Shirt Filippa K Coat Polo by Ralph Lauren
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Blazer Filippa K
Shirt Libertine Libertine
Shirt Weekday
Sweater Weekday
Trousers Soulland
Trousers Matinique
Necklace Bjรถrk
Necklace Maria Black Sunglasses Soulland
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Jacket Cos Trousers Weekday Fingerring Maria Nilsdotter
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Leather jacket Han Kjøbenhavn Coat Matinique Fingerring Maria Nilsdotter
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Shirt Velour Coat Polo by Ralph Lauren Trousers Soulland Boots Hope Fingerring Christina Bizzaro Finggering (big) Helena Rohner, vintage Sunglasses Han Kjønenhavn
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Velvet blazer Acne Velvet trousers Acne Shirt Bruuns Bazaar Cufflinks Christina Bizzaro Cap vintage
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Sunglasses Oxyoo
Suit, J. Lindeberg Vest, Hacket Shirt, Bruuns Bazaar Cufflinks, Christina Bizzaro
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Suit J. Lindeberg
Shirt Velour
Vest Hacket
Vest Matinique
Suit Hacket
Shirt Bruuns Bazaar
Leather jacket Acne Archive
Necklace Maria Black
Cufflinks Christina Bizzaro
Trousers J. LIndeberg
Fingerring Christina Bizzaro
Fingerring Maria Nilsdotter
Necklace Bjรถrk Fingerring Maria Nilsdotter
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Cardigan J. Lindeberg
Shirt Cheap Monday Jacket Cheap Monday Trousers Hackett
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Shirt Plectrum by Ben Sherman Coat Polo by Ralph Lauren Sunglasses Han Kjøbenhavn, Fingerring Christina Bizzaro Finggering (big) Helena Rohner vintage
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Turtleneck J. Lindeberg Trousers Soulland
Blazer J. Lindeberg
Fingerring Maria Nilsdotter
Trousers Ben Sherman
Sunglasses Dior Homme
Fingerring Maria Nilsdotter
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Bomber jacket, Libertine Libertine
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Shirt Resteröds
Turtleneck Filippa K
Blazer Hope
Trousers Weekday
Trousers Hope
Sunglasses Han Kjøbenhavn
Sunglasses Dior Homme
Fingerring Christina Bizzaro
Bracelet Björk
Finggering (big) Helena Rohner vintage
Fingerring Maria Nilsdotter
Boots Hope
Shoes Filippa K
Bomber jacket Libertine Libertine
Quilted jacket Weekday
Turtleneck Filippa K
Coat Velour
Shirt Resteröds Blazer Hope
Trousers Weekday
Trousers J. LIndeberg
Trousers Hope
Sunglasses Han Kjøbenhavn
Boots Hope
Sunglasses Dior Homme
Fingerring Christina Bizzaro
Bowler hat Henrik Vibskov
Bracelet Björk
Finggering (big) Helena Rohner vintage
Fingerring Maria Nilsdotter
Boots, Hope
Shoes Filippa K
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the
r ide
Photography Henrik Adamsen Stylist Jesper Hentze/Scoop artists Hair & make up Gitte G/ Zenia JĂŚger/ Agentur Photographer assistant Mikkel Model Caroline Stockholm/2pm All clothes By Malene Birger Fur Day Birger et Mikkelsen
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