Hey Rhody Dining May 2022 by Hey Rhody Media Co.

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FEATURES

NEWS & LIFE

Securing Roots Smithfield land stewards grow a permaculture hub, one tree at a time

41 CO V E R S TO R Y

Pass the Board Charcuterie and shareable feasts are the way to graze this season

62 DINING

In The Kitchen Flavors of home inspire this James Beard-nominated chef ’s new Newport taqueria

70 DRINKING

Tea Time Providence tea houses steep perfection with curated experiences

Bellevue Boards Ph oto by J amal & L ash an a Ph otog rap hy, courte sy of B e llevue B oa rds

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CONTENTS

68 18

Ph oto cou rtesy of D RANKS byday

Ph oto co ur te sy o f Fund at i

Ph oto cou rtesy of Cri ci ci s D es i gn

News & Life

Entertaining

Dining

Drinking

12 Mission-driven family

24 HOME: A chef’s home in Elmwood is mindfully refurbished for 21st century family life

56 EXPERIENCE: A Pawtuxet Village creperie turns Parisian lounge after sunset

68 Spirit infusion kits raise

32 RHODY READS: Six cuisine-

58 RHODY RECIPE: Local

themed titles with local ties

Greek markets are inspo for this Mediterranean medley

bakery needs dough to put plans in action

14 THE PUBLIC’S RADIO: Climate change creating new options for fish lovers who want to “eat local”

16 RHODY PETS: A Warwick bakery just for pups + the adoptable Pet of the Month

18 RHODY GEM: Cozy eatery and specialty coffee roastery minutes from Lincoln Woods

34 SHOP: Chop local with boards made in RI that are a cut above

36 MAKER: The designer behind a line of tea towels celebrating the state’s harvest season

37 BEER, WINE & SPIRITS MAP On the Cover: A charcuterie spread by The Perfect Parcel, photo by Crystal Papino

the bar for home mixology

78 Plant-based food hall opens new speakeasy with veggie-forward bevvies

80 CALENDAR: This month’s must-do’s

60 From lobster rolls to grinders, 10 sammies worth driving for

81 #HEYRHODYPHOTOS : A colorful mosaic from our talented followers via Instagram

The Brick + Beam Studio photo on page 47 of the April 2022 issue of Hey Rhody was miscredited. The photograph was captured by Todd Vorenkamp/TRVphoto.com. We sincerely regret the error.

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CONTRIBUTORS

CALL DEBRA

401-289-0900 Complimentary consultation She personally interviews and screens her clients Both men and women are guaranteed to meet potential partners

LAURA AFONSO As the founder and creator of local restaurant guide Buns and Bites, Laura Afonso is known for serving up favorite foods to “hungry Instagrammers” with a cheeky smile, and this month, she’s doing the same in print. In “Joie de Vivre” Afonso discovers a creperie with an after-hours menu! Read all about it on page 56.

Hand crafted matches, no computer program or software

ABBIE LAHMERS Our managing editor Abbie Lahmers is quite the foodie (and beer lover) and can often be found sampling and flighting her way through Providence. As the overseer of all food content, she took the helm for this issue and also wrote the cover story (page 41) – best paired with a nice hoppy IPA.

Debra L’Heureux, Rhode Island’s top Matchmaker for Get Ready To Date has been in the business of helping people find love for over 18 years! JOIN MY MATCHMAKING DATABASE AT GETREADYTODATE.COM

HUGH MINOR In addition to selecting six cuisine-themed picks for this month’s Rhody Reads (page 32), regular contributor and proud member of What Cheer Writers Club Hugh Minor also shares about a family trying to make their mission-driven inclusive bakery a reality. Read all about it in “Baking a Difference” (page 12).

KOU TUKALA NYAN Back in February, we featured Kou Tukala Nyan’s book Jesus, Adulting, People in Poetry, and this month, the storytelling artist taps into her journalist skills to share about a new business that packages cocktail kits perfect for home mixologists. Check out “Happy Hour at Home” (page 68) before shaking your next cocktail.

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ONLINE

May 2022

Publishers Barry Fain Richard Fleischer John Howell

General Manager & Creative Director Nick DelGiudice

Editor in Chief Elyse Major

Managing Editor Abbie Lahmers

Editor Karen Greco Digital Media Manager Sascha Roberts Advertising Design Director Layheang Meas

Senior Editorial Designer Abigail Brown

Senior Designer Taylor Gilbert

Web Extra: A new batch of food industry entrepreneurs are excited to call Bristol’s Wood Street home

NEWSLETTER:

Account Managers Shelley Cavoli Louann DiMuccio-Darwich Ann Gallagher Kristine Mangan Olf Elizabeth Riel Interested in advertising? Email Marketing@ProvidenceOnline.com

207-592-4775 www.awshucksoysteropener.com

Contributing Photographers Cassidy Bissitt Erin McGinn Jackie Connor Jacquelina Paiva Noah Glasner Crystal Papino Jamal & Lashana Erin Pollard Photography Talia Pirri Photography Mami Karro Therese Iacono Grace Lentini Photography Marianna Lee Jackie Young Photography Lynn Martin Contributing Writers Laura Afonso Patty J Belinda Jones Karen Kalunian

Hugh Minor Liz Murray Kou Tukala Nyan An Uong

Ph oto by @mmelone_h e ret h e re a n d eve r yw h e re

Share your Ocean State photos on Instagram using #HeyRhodyPhotos to be featured here!

Hanna Goldman

Casey Williams

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NEWS & LIFE

B a k i n g B u s i n e s s | E n v i ro n m e n t | R h o d y P e t s | R h o d y G e m | L a n d S tewa rd s

18 A Cajun bacon and spinach breakfast sandwich and classic latte coming right up Photo courtesy of Fundati

NEWS & LIFE

Baking a Difference A N o r t h S c i t u a te f a m i l y ’ s swe e t b u s i n e s s m o d e l i n c l u d e s p rov i d i n g o p p o r t u n i t i e s f o r a d u l t s w i t h d i s a b i l i t i e s By Hugh Minor

ou find a need, you fill a need” is Melissa Kimmell’s philosophy, which is why she’s working on opening Flour Box Bakeshop, a non-profit in North Scituate that will employ adults with disabilities. In this case, the need is personal for Kimmell and her family. Her son Jonah was diagnosed with autism, language delay, and Tourette Syndrome when he was two years old. Now an adult, he aged out of the benefits from the programs and services that were available to him as a child, so Kimmell is taking matters into her own hands. “I had the idea of creating a business with an environment where adults with disabilities can get job training and job opportunities,” she says. “I want Jonah and the people we hire to have real jobs. Most of the opportunities out there are menial jobs that don’t even pay minimum wage.” Kimmell shares that a bakery works for her goals on multiple levels. She got the idea from thinking about the kinds of the activities that Jonah enjoys and the type of business that lends itself to a process that could be broken down into small, manageable tasks. And, of course, what type of business could be successful? “Food is universal, and it brings people together,” says Kimmell. “That’s ultimately our goal – to create a business where everyone is welcome.” When Flour Box Bakeshop opens, neighbors and friends will be able to purchase tasty baked goods while supporting the continued development of adults with disabilities. It will be a family affair, as Melissa’s other son, Gabe, will help run the business, making this dream come true that much more special, especially following the recent loss of the brothers’ father and Kimmell’s husband, Alex. Kimmell also plans to distribute any unsold products to local food pantries. If the Kimmells find success with Flour Box, she hopes to expand into other areas. Looking out for Jonah’s future, Kimmell

Melissa, Jonah, and Gabe Kimmell are ready to get cracking

knows she has to make this happen, not only for him but also for other adults with disabilities in the community. “People with different abilities are usually separated from everyone else. In schools, they’re in different classrooms and they’re kept apart in the workplace. We want this to be different,” she says. Kimmell especially wants the business to

be visible, for people to learn about their mission, and for customers to meet and get to know their neighbors behind the counter. Right now, she’s exploring a number of locations to find the right fit for Flour Box to see this vision through. For details and to help get Flour Box Bakeshop off the ground, visit GoFund.Me/3e0444a6.

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Photo courtesy of Flour Box Bakeshop

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NEWS & LIFE

Climate Change Creating New Options for Fish Lovers Who Want to “Eat Local” Species once common in the mid-Atlantic are becoming fixtures off the coast of Rhode Island and Massachusetts In part nership with The Public’s Radio • ThePublicsRadio.org • By Sofie Rudin and Antonia Ayres-Brown

limate change is pushing fish species north, changing what it means to eat local.

RUDIN: So, Antonia, a couple weeks ago I met up with Jason Timothy. He’s the creative culinary director and co-owner of a restaurant called Troop. TIMOTHY: Alright so we’re gonna drop these guys in our – we have water going, a bouillon of sorts. That’s gonna cook for about, you know, three or four minutes or until they turn a little bit red. RUDIN: We were in his kitchen in Providence, cooking up blue crabs. AYRES-BROWN: Okay that’s interesting because I mostly think of blue crabs as being a Mar yland thing. RUDIN: Yeah, I grew up in Baltimore, and they are ever ywhere. You’ve got crab cakes, soft shell crabs, crab dip… restaurants where they steam tons and tons of crabs, coat them in Old Bay, and dump them on a table for you to hammer open. It’s the official state crustacean, and Mar yland’s most valuable fisher y. AYRES-BROWN: That sounds so good, and it also kind of sounds like what quahogs or calamari are to Rhode Island. So, do blue crabs live around here too ? RUDIN: Yes, but you can only fish them recreationally because the Rhode Island Department of Environmental Management says the population is too small to support a commercial fishery.

keeps the blue crab population lower in its northern range is its winter mortality. So when waters get cold, around 50 degrees or so, they start to actually go dormant, and they’ll just sort of like hunker down in the sediment. RUDIN: Our winters are getting warmer. And scientists think that, because of climate change, the temperatures in Narragansett Bay could become more like the Chesapeake – and the blue crab population could really take off. AYRES-BROWN: So blue crabs are one of these examples of species that could expand in the Northeast because of warmer temperatures. But I imagine this isn’t just affecting blue crabs, right ? I’ve also heard about lobster and winter flounder becoming more rare here. RUDIN: Yep, and other historically more southern species are becoming more common, including scup, striper, sea robin, and dogfish. And the one people mentioned to me over and over as the poster child of the impact of climate change is black sea bass. There are these maps of the black sea bass biomass distribution over time. And you can see that the species used to be centered sort of off Virginia and the Carolinas. But over the last few decades, the center of the population has shifted north, towards New England. AYRES-BROWN: So what does this mean for our region? Are Rhode Island fishermen already seeing this change, in terms of what they’re catching ?

But that could be changing. I talked to Katie Rodrigue, a DEM biologist, about this.

RUDIN: Yeah, they are. I talked to Fred Mattera, a long-time fisherman who now leads the Commercial Fisheries Center of Rhode Island. And with black sea bass especially, he said the population has just exploded.

RODRIGUE: So one of the factors that sort of

MATTERA: They’re everywhere. And they’re all sizes,

you know, from little babies, to some things that weigh four or five pounds. They’re big, mature females and males. Everybody catches them. Pot fishermen catch ‘em. Lobstermen catch ‘em. Gill netters, trawlers… you know, everybody’s catching them because they’re so prolific. AYRES-BROWN: It sounds like that could be a good thing for fishermen here. RUDIN: Yeah. The thing is, Fred says reg ulators have been slow to shift quotas to keep up with this change. MATTERA: It’s so slow, so slow, it’s ridiculous. As fishermen we live in real time, you know. I go last night and I’m fishing out there today, and I’m seeing all these sea bass. And the key here is we need to start to change the quotas. We got to increase the quotas. RUDIN: Rhode Island’s quota for black sea bass was increased slightly. But it takes time for scientists to measure these population shifts and analyze that data. And then the process for splitting quota among the states is political, and Rhode Island doesn’t have a seat on one of the councils that makes that decision. So as species like black sea bass shift north, more of them may move out of their traditional range – which is where some of these regulatory decisions get made – into more northern waters. AYRES-BROWN: Okay so even if the fish are moving , there are these human systems – like how we catch fish, how we set quotas, how we package and market and sell the fish – that need to adapt, too. Are people tr ying to get ahead of these changes ? RUDIN: Yeah. Blue crabs are one example of that. So just this year, Rhode Island DEM Hey Rhody DINING MAY 2022 |

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Originally published on April 14, 2022, this is the second part in a two-part series. Visit ThePublicsRadio.org to listen to the first part: “Smaller fish to fry: Rhode Island project hopes to boost interest in scup.” Antonia Ayres-Brown is the Newport Reporter for The Public’s Radio and a Report for America corps member. She can be reached at antonia@thepublicsradio.org. Sofie Rudin is the Science and Environment Reporter for The Public’s Radio and can be reached at srudin@thepublicsradio.org.

Learn more about the restaurant experiment with URI including a list of participating restaurants, at EatingwiththeEcosystem.org

Jason Timothy sorts blue crabs in the kitchen of his restaurant, Troop started tracking the population of blue crabs here. And the idea is to start collecting data before a potential population boom so that if there are enough crabs to support a commercial fisher y, DEM will be ready to reg ulate it and allow fishermen to take advantage of that new opportunity.

Photo by Sofie Rudin/The Public’s Radio

RODRIGUE: You know, for example, maybe there’s a fisher that targeted lobsters in the past, and that’s not really feasible now. In the future, potentially, that effort could go to blue crabs, if their population levels allow it. AYRES-BROWN: Okay, and then I imagine you’d need businesses ready to distribute and sell the crabs. Like, in Mar yland I know they have crab -processing companies that pick the meat out of the shells and package it. But we don’t have those kinds of businesses here.

RUDIN: That’s Kate Masury, who leads an organization called Eating with the Ecosystem. She and an economist at URI are talking to all these fishing-adjacent businesses about how they might adapt to handle new species moving into the area. And they’re supplying six different southern or mid-Atlantic fish species to Rhode Island restaurants, with the idea that these imports could be the local species of the future. And they’re asking chefs and customers about how they liked the fish. MASURY: We need to have markets for our catch. And the supply chain plays a big role in that.

think about the crab? Is Troop gonna start serving blue crabs, if they can find them locally? RUDIN: It was kind of a mixed review. Jason said picking the meat out is just a ton of work, and the pre-picked meat is expensive. But he’s not ruling it out. TIMOTHY: As much as it is a pain to deal with, it’s so good. It really is. RUDIN: As he was picking the meat out of the first batch of crabs, we both popped a morsel in our mouths.

AYRES-BROWN: So it seems like they want to get people to start thinking about buying these fish as they become more available.

TIMOTHY: Nice and sweet.

RUDIN: Yeah. So remember those crabs chef Jason Timothy was cooking ? He got them through a study that’s tr ying to start to grap ple with the questions you’re raising.

RUDIN: Exactly. The final piece of the puzzle is kind of a cultural shift. Like, let’s say there’s tons of crabs in Narragansett Bay, DEM allows people to catch them commercially, distributors are ready to pack and sell them… Are restaurants and consumers gonna buy them?

TIMOTHY: You still get that nice briney, sea-water… a little of the bouillon, you get a little of that flavor in there.

MASURY: The goal of this project is kind of to look for ward, and look at, okay, what will the ecosystem look like here in the future ?

AYRES-BROWN: Yeah, and food culture is so tied to places and their history, especially in New England, which is so provincial. So what did Jason

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RUDIN: Mm. Oh so good. Really good.

RUDIN: And blue crab isn’t the only species that’s part of this experiment. The restaurants are working through six species. The restaurants are working through five other species: Spanish mackerel, red drum, Northern pufferfish, grey triggerfish and Atlantic croaker.

NEWS & LIFE

A War wick Bakeshop That’s Gone to the Dogs Jack’s Snacks caters to four-legged clientele with custom cakes and cookies just for pups By Belinda Jones, Animal Rescue Rhode Island This pooch’s birthday celebration isn’t complete without a look-alike cake

RHODY PET OF THE MONTH: FREDDI By Karen Kalunian It’s Fast Freddi, the amazing oneeyed wonder! Freddi is a two-year-old Rottie/Pit mix, which is where he gets his dashing good looks. His favorite activities include car rides, romping around, snoring through naps, and long leash walks. In his past life, Freddi was surrendered by his former owner to receive the care he needed for his eye, and though he unfortunately had to have his eye removed, now he’s completely healed and ready for a new chapter in his life. It’s Freddi’s turn to live a life full of love, snuggles, and snorts in a home where he would be your one and only boy. If this pup’s good looks make you smile, contact the RISPCA to meet Freddi. Learn more at RISPCA at 186 Amaral Street, Riverside. 401-438-8150, Adoption@rispca.com

Imagine the tongue-lolling glee you’ll be met with when you present your fetchloving dog with a birthday cake in the shape of a giant tennis ball, filled with treats like a piñata. Or for your chew-focused friend, how about an edible replica of their favorite toy? Pups with extra swag may require a 3D portrait with “Happy Birthday Mother Puppers” piped in doggie frosting. These are just a few examples of the joyful canine celebration cakes offered at Jack’s Snacks, A Dog Bakery based in Warwick. “We are getting ever-more creative with our designs,” says owner and founder Marni MacLean Karro, “though the classic boneshaped cake remains our most popular.” The bakery opened in 2004 when Karro and

her husband returned to their native East Coast from California, along with Jack, an adopted black Lab-Pit mix who had five owners prior and suffered from fear-aggression. Fortunately, the couple was up to the challenge of working through his issues. “It was so rewarding to see him grow,” Karro reflects. “All the love we gave, he returned to us tenfold. Jack was the dog love of our lives.” Not to mention the inspiration for her dog bakery business. “In Los Angeles, I had been working as executive assistant to [actor and comedian] Arsenio Hall. There wasn’t comparable work in Rhode Island, so when we settled in Pawtucket, my husband said, ‘You love baking and you love dogs – you should create a gourmet treat business!’ I made my

first batch that very day,” says Karro. It was a slow start – people were mostly just amused when they saw Karro’s stall at local farmers markets, but her Ginger’s Chicken and Garlic Bone-anza won over the dogs and gradually Jack’s Snacks grew from home-baked trays to professional kitchen status, then an actual brick-and-mortar store. Now, along with snacks and cakes, the shop offers human apparel, dog accessories from RI brands including Hope Rope Co and Up Country, and dog-themed greetings cards and artwork from Tatutina. It’s a happy place for pooches and humans alike – pups get samples from the Broken Biscuit Jar, and humans find delight in clever product names like Woofie Pie and The Barkcuterie Box.

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Photo by Marni Karro, courtesy of Jack’s Snacks

If you have been looking to adopt or know of an animal in need, please contact Karen from Animal Talk directly at animaltalk1920@gmail.com

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“Aside from supporting a local Rhode Island business, I think our customers love knowing that we only use the very best ingredients,” Karro notes. “If we need 30 pounds of peanut butter, we call up our suppliers in Providence and they put down the phone and go and grind the peanuts right there and then!” You certainly don’t need to wait for your furry friend’s birthday to taste-test this freshness – peanut butter squirrel cookies are available all year round! To shop their full range of products, visit Jack’s Snacks, A Dog Bakery in Warwick or find snacks at select shops, including Serendipity in Wickford. JacksSnacks.com

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NEWS & LIFE

Fundati Coffee Shop and Roaster What it is: Fundati is a specialty coffee shop that offers house-roasted coffee, tea, quick bites, brewing equipment, and a variety of products from local small businesses.

W h e re to f i n d i t : Off the Old Louisquisset Pike exit on 146, find this brewhouse next to Lincoln Woods. Look for the sign with an elephant balancing a coffee cup on its trunk.

W h a t m a k e s i t a R h o d y G e m? Find your Fundati at this cheerful Lincoln coffee shop, whose name comes from the Latin word meaning “to be grounded.” “To us, this means being grounded in the moment, to always fresh-grind our beans for brewing, and to consume whole foods, ones with as few steps as possible from the ground to us,” explains owner Alicia DeCastro. Sustainability is also part of their ethos. The first coffee shop in Rhode Island to own a bellwether – a zero emission coffee roaster – Fundati ethically sources their beans from small farms across the world. A variety of house-made baked goods, workout fuel like power balls and overnight oats, and hand-crafted breakfast and lunch sandwiches offer sustenance, while their customer-facing pour-over bar, and cafe space encourage community and conversation. “Moments of stillness and pause are much needed in everyone’s day,” says DeCastro. “We want to return to the roots of cafe culture, create a social space for community, and experience our present environment together.”

Fu n d a t i

Every neighborhood has that secret, hidden, cool and unusual, or hole-in-the-wall spot that locals love. We’re on the hunt for Rhody Gems! Email Elyse@ProvidenceOnline.com to suggest yours and we just might feature it!

Photo courtesy of Fundati

1525 Old Louisquisset Pike, Lincoln FundatiCoffee.com Instagram: @fundaticoffee Facebook: @fundati

GROWING THE LOCAL FOOD SYSTEM SINCE 2004 Our 60,000 sq. ft. facility serves as headquarters for our programs, packhouse, and distribution operations — and our Farm Fresh Providence Farmers Market is open here every Saturday 9am-1pm, year-round!

UNIQUE SHOPPING | ON-SITE MANUFACTURING | PRODUCTION VIEWING WINDOWS | AND MORE!

Toffee & Confections anchortoffee.com

Hot Sauces, Salsas & BBQ Sauces rhedshotsauce.com

Coffee Shop & Spirits with a full bar until 11pm on Weekends newharvestcoffee.com

Flowers for weddings, special occasions or for everyday robinhollowfarm.com

Urban Taphouse & Brewery pvd.beer

Chicano Street Food, Rooted in Hospitality tallulahstaqueria.com

Northeast Farms through Wholesale, Local and Eco redtomato.org

Year-Round Ice Cream, Farm-Fresh Dairy Products & Baked Goods thewrightscoopri.com

10 SIMS AVE PROVIDENCE | FARMFRESHRI.ORG | OPEN TUESDAY-SUNDAY Please check with each business for their current hours of operation

NEWS & LIFE

Planting Seeds

The land stewards at Revive t h e Ro o t s g row a p ermac ulture hub, one tre e at a ti me

n 2011, a group of Smithfield High School students curious about sustainable farming practices outgrew their backyard experiments. So they entered an ambitious lease agreement with the Smithfield Land Trust to steward two side-by-side properties, totaling 23 acres. Revive the Roots was born, a non-profit focused on sustainability and social impact. Their first job was to clear out the pine forest at the top of the Woonasquatucket River. “It was an unofficial dumping ground,” says Hannah Martin, Revive the Roots’ community builder. “There were over 200 tires, couches, mattresses, all sorts of debris.” Over the past decade, Revive the Roots stewards – all volunteers – turned an overgrown parcel into a thriving food hub. Fruit and nut trees bloom across the property, which is dotted with farm land, community gardens, a greenhouse, chickens, and sheep. Hiking trails wind through the wooded areas and there are spaces for education and arts programming. There’s even an edible forest. Revive the Roots’ organization is multi-faceted. On the one hand, they are food producers, working the land sustainably, and selling the produce through their farm stand and, beginning this year, a CSA. Adjacent to that are their social enterprise programs, leasing out parcels of land to mission-aligned growers for their own agriculture businesses. Those farmers tend to Revive the Roots’ crops in lieu of rent. Plus, Revive the Roots

works with Hope’s Harvest to get fresh produce in the hands of the food insecure. Last year, they donated 1,500 pounds of food to hunger relief. “There is a need to make food accessible,” says Martin. “As we found out in the last few years, big systems are hard to change. But I think a lot of things are possible.” She refers to the 50 by 60 challenge, an initiative set by Food Solutions New England for 50 percent of New England’s food system to be local by 2060. “A lot of us saw in 2020 what it means to have a disrupted delivery system,” she says. “It’s crucial our food sources be resilient to disruption. “We have a good climate for growing food,” she continues. “If you look at how much food we grew last year on one-eighth of an acre, it’s very doable.” But, Martin notes, the biggest challenge facing local food production is losing farmland to development. That point hits close to home. Last year, Revive the Roots learned the town was not extending their curatorship program on five acres of land that includes the Mary Mowry House, a refurbished farmhouse that four stewards live in year-round. In November, Revive the Roots launched a capital campaign to purchase the property. This will secure the future of the organization because without the acreage, they are unsure their mission can continue. “It’s difficult to manage the land without stewards on site,” she says. Their produce manager is one of these residents.

It’s important, Martin notes, for a farmer to be on site since tending to the land can be a 24/7 job. “If the temperature drops, for example, it could kill the seedlings we just planted.” Having someone on site to protect the crops from something like a surprise freeze is part of farming. Without the house, “we’d have to scale back [food production] next season,” she says. Plus, they’d lose access to a quarter of their hiking trails and they wouldn’t be able to keep their sheep, which are used for wool for their partnership with Artists’ Exchange. “One of the aspects of permaculture that is important to us is that the word culture is in there. We can work to make environmental change, we can work to grow more food, we can work to develop and preserve habitat alongside our food systems. But if we’re not connecting as humans together on this land, then the effort we put in becomes work,” she says. “Finding artful ways to farm together really makes the effort of land care more of a shared and joyful experience.” At Revive the Roots, it all intersects: the sustainable food systems; the walking trails that snake through them, providing recreation for the community; and the creative culture and art making built up around it. “We have something that is really valuable,” she says. “There is a huge opportunity for someone to be a hero in Smithfield and save this spot.” To donate and learn more visit RevivetheRoots.org Hey Rhody DINING MAY 2022 |

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Photos courtesy of Revive the Roots

By Karen Greco

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ENTERTAINING H o m e | R h o d y R e a d s | S h o p | M a ke r

24 A peek inside the luminous kitchen of a Providence executive chef P h o t o g ra p h y b y E z r a P o l l a r d , c o u r t e s y o f M i k e S e e l y

ENTERTAINING

Fresh Approach

A state l y P rov i de n ce h o m e i s m i n d f u l l y u p d ated for 2 1st centu r y fa mily life

By Elys e Major | Photography by Ezra Pollard, courtesy of Mike Seely

hen Mike Seely and Hannah Dalton-Ameen first thought about moving to Providence from Boston to be closer to Seely’s work as executive chef at Bayberr y Garden, they focused their search on the East Side where Dalton-Ameen grew up. However, after viewing a handful of homes that suited neither their style nor their needs, they expanded their sights and discovered Southern Elmwood : a histor y-rich district of stately Victorians with ties to the former Gorham Manufacturing Company. “Our house was the first one we looked at and

without knowing much about the area, we had an over whelmingly good feeling about the home during our walkthrough,” Dalton-Ameen relays. Three working fireplaces, large leaded glass windows, and crown mouldings were among features of the 3,341-square-foot home that appealed instantly to the couple. “ The kitchen was the only sore spot, but with some imagination we saw the exciting possibilities for a remodel.” In just over two years – and somehow with a baby – the pair embarked on a series of structural and cosmetic changes to the 1904 Colonial Revival, starting with the kitchen; small and isolated

Cornflower blue is a favorite color and appears in rooms via accents like textiles

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ENTERTAINING

Floating shelves keep the vibe airy

from the rest of the main floor, Dalton-Ameen knew this layout wouldn’t work for daily life and enlisted the ser vices of interior designer Kelly Taylor, who prescribed removing a back stair well and two walls to open up access from the kitchen to the living room. Additional renovations followed, including turning a kitchenette into an office with a wet bar, and transforming a third-floor bathroom into a spa-like retreat with a skylight and original exposed beams. The chimney and fireplaces were repaired, hardwoods were refinished, and all interior paint colors changed from a “ROYGBIV ” color way to soft “neutral-adjacent hues.” “ We were aiming for classic and simple, with touches of whimsy and an eye toward practicality. Above all, we wanted the house to feel inviting for the many gatherings we envisioned hosting here, and cozy for all the overnight g uests we planned to have,” says Dalton-Ameen. “ We tried to furnish each room to highlight the understated elegance and grace of the bones of the house – the Hey Rhody DINING MAY 2022 |

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WARREN’S HIDDEN GEM SINCE 2013 OPEN YEAR ROUND We feature locally roasted coffee, gourmet sweet and savory crepes, espresso drinks & fresh baked goods made from scratch. Conveniently located on Town Wharf, open until 10 p.m. every night. Cafe Water Street 279 Water Street, Warren, RI 401.245.7071 Open seven days a week, all year

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ENTERTAINING

Wallpapered risers add unexpected style

furnishings and decor are largely simple and classic – and don’t detract from the house itself.” Adds Seely, “ The house gets so much natural light and we wanted to highlight that by keeping the walls light and bright.” The last piece of the renovation was removing 30 feet of driveway to expand the yard, building a raised patio, and redoing the deck off the back of the house. “ This created a little oasis in the city that gained us some privacy and comfort, and afforded a space for Mike’s four – yes four! – grills,” Dalton-Ameen says with a smile. “ We’re so glad we broadened our horizons, even if it is just 10 minutes across town. Aside from loving the house, we have a wonderful community of neighbors, and there are plenty of little friends for our son.”

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ENTERTAINING

Get Rhody Style H o m e ow n e r s M i ke S e e l y a n d H a n n a h D a l to n -A m e e n s h a re s o m e re a s o n s w hy t h ey a re h a p py t h ey re l o c a te d to P rov i d e n ce .

C i ty L i v i n g “We love the vibe of Providence. It’s youthful, artistic, vibrant, multicultural, and approachable. It has all of the big-city amenities but is not so big you get lost in it. It’s close to the ocean and not far from the quiet woods. And we love the history, as told through its homes and buildings,” says Dalton-Ameen.

E a t , D r i n k & B u y Lo c a l “Stock for kitchenware and gifts, The Shop for a delicious latte, Jordan’s Jungle, Bolt Coffee for fresh roasted beans for coffee at home, the new Farmer ’s Market location on Sims, and Long Live Beerworks which is just a short walk down Elmwood Avenue. And of course, Bayberry Garden!” top the couple’s list.

E x p l o re E l mwo o d Enjoy peeping architecture? In the 1880s and 1890s the Elmwood neighborhood became the home of numerous jewelry and gold and silver product manufacturers; Adelaide Avenue alone contained the residences of six manufacturing jewelers. Find examples of grand Second Empire, Queen Anne, and Colonial Revival houses.

A hand-glazed ceramic oyster sink is a stand-out feature

AT CHAMPL IN’S

From Boat to Plate

The Seafood Market

What started as a clam shack in 1944 is now one of the state’s most beloved seafood institutions. Champlin’s Seafood Deck, located right on the water in the heart of Galilee, serves the freshest seafood you’re going to find anywhere in Rhode Island. But clam shack fare is only

Nothing beats buying seafood right off the boat. Below the Seafood Deck, Champlin’s Market sells incredible, fresh seafood – everything from live lobsters to shrimp, scallops, and fish. Their prepared options include smoked salmon and bluefish, stuffed quahogs and scallops,

part of the package. The restaurant also has a raw bar and great cocktails, which are best enjoyed with the breathtaking view from their Channel Bar. OPENS ON APRIL 3RD

cooked crabs and lobsters, and marinated salads of calamari, mussels, or octopus. OPEN DAILY

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Raw Bar

Red, White, or Clear Chowder

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256 GREAT ISLAND ROAD, NARRAGANSETT • 401-783-3152 • CHAMPLINS.COM

ENTERTAINING

Rhody Reads Feast your eyes on these six

books with local ties about food

By Hug h Minor

“

angia !” In this month’s Rhody Reads, we’re featuring six books that highlight the fantastic culinar y scene in Rhode Island. From cooking and eating to how food ser ves as the centerpiece of our lives, check them all out and be sure to purchase yours at your local bookstore. Now, let’s dig in! Chef and author Jeanie Roland runs two restaurants, Ella’s Food & Drink in Westerly and The Perfect Caper in Punta Gorda. With her new cookbook, The Perfect Caper, you can enjoy Roland’s delectable dishes in the comfort of your own home. Combining a refined French technique and Asian influences, ever y recipe offers a delightful experience for the food connoisseur. Rhode Island is probably best known for its Italian cuisine and you can find some of the best examples in Providence native Nancy Verde Barr’s book, We Called it Macaroni. From appetizers to desserts, Barr, who worked for years with Julia Child, covers the best recipes from southern Italy and gives them her own local flair. Lydia Walshin and Jennifer Leal take a different approach in their cookbook, Rhode Island Recipes, creating healthy choices for families with an emphasis on local dishes. From lasagna to fritters, you can explore the biggest meals from the littlest state but with healthy twists so you don’t have to feel g uilty about appreciating some homegrown favorites.

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Food is at the heart of the family and in the center of The Pie Sisters, a novel by Rhode Island residents and real-life friends Victoria Corliss and Leigh Brown. When three sisters return to their family home for a birthday celebration, they seek ways to come back to gether, mining their past to find common ground. It’s a great read that will inspire you to bring your loved ones together to bake. When you can’t get to the Ocean House in Watch Hill, you can bring their recipes into your home with their cookbook, Ocean House: Living and Cooking Through the Seasons. The perfect collection for any chef, food lover, or admirer of the historic yellow beach hotel, the stunning imager y is the next best thing to being there. Ver y few delicacies are more unique to Rhode Island than the stuffie, and there are a million different ways chefs personalize their recipes to make it their own. Join David Norton Stone on his expedition to find the perfect one in Stuffie Summer, an entertaining read for any time of the year. With humor and histor y, Stone makes the case for recognizing stuffies as the official state appetizer.

SHOP INDIE A statewide listing of Rhode Island booksellers: Barrington Books: BarringtonBooks.com Book Nerd: Barrington, Facebook Books on the Pond: Charlestown, BooksOnThePond.com Books on the Square: Providence, BookSq.com Cellar Stories Bookstore: Providence, CellarStories.com Charter Books: Newport, CharterBookStore.com Curiosity & Co.: Jamestown, Facebook: CuriosityandCompany.store Inkfish Books: Warren, InkFishBooks.com Island Books: Middletown, IslandBooksRI.indielite.org Island Bound Bookstore: Block Island, IslandBoundBookstore.com Lovecraft Arts & Sciences: Providence, WeirdProvidence.org Paper Nautilus Books: Providence, PaperNautilusBooks.com Rarities Books & Bindery: Wakefield, RaritiesOnline.com Riffraff Bookstore + Bar: Providence, RiffRaffPVD.com Savoy Bookshop & Cafe: Westerly, BankSquareBooks.com Stillwater Books: Pawtucket, StillwaterBooksRI.com Symposium Books: Providence, SymposiumBooks.com

Send your Rhody book recommendations to Hugh at RhodyReads@gmail.com

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Twenty Stories: Providence, TwentyStoriesLA.com Wakefield Books: Wakefield, WakefieldBooks.com

ENTERTAINING

Carving a Niche By Elyse Major

hether you’re inspired to try your hand at assembling a charcuterie or snack board or simply want something handmade in your kitchen, there are many Rhode Island makers offering a range of wood products that are a cut above. Not only are the boards durable, they’re beautiful and withstand everyday use. Provided is a sampling to whet your appetite!

Block Board photo by Noah Glasner Mosaic Woodworks photo by Marianna Lee Photography Andiamo Woodworking and Design and Zuerner Design, LLC photos courtesy of Stock Culinary Goods

3. BROWSE BOARDS Additional Ocean State makers include The Chopping Block (Facebook: The Chopping Block), Something Like That Works (SomethingLikeThatWorks.com), and Spoon + Board (@spoon_and_board). Discover others and supplies at shops like Wickford Gourmet Kitchen Factory Outlet; Stock Culinary Goods, Providence; Groundswell Table + Provisions, Tiverton, and any small shop or community market that sells kitchen tools.

1. ANDIAMO WOODWORKING AND DESIGN Warren Facebook: Andiamo Woodworking

2. BLOCK BOARDS Block Island BlockIslandBoards.com

3. MOSAIC WOODWORKS Newport MosaicWoodworks.com

4. RIVETED WOODWORKING & DESIGN

Bristol RivetedWoodworking.com

5. ZUERNER DESIGN, LLC North Kingstown Facebook: ZuernerDesign Hey Rhody DINING MAY 2022 |

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ENTERTAINING

Garden Variety

A designer draws inspiration from Rhode Island’s harvest season for a line of linens B y Elyse Major

eah Ammerman loves to draw. The artist behind Cricicis Designs, she doesn’t need fancy pens and often relies on Sharpies to get the juices flowing. Two years ago, she was hired as the designer for Stock Culinary Goods to work on the website, advertising , window displays, and a few product ideas. Around the same time, her longtime partner was setting up a screenprinting studio in Westerly and Ammerman began playing around with lighthouse designs, which resulted in tea towels for the store. Stock owner Jan Dane mentioned always wanting Rhode Island’s harvest calendar printed on a series of

tea towels and the two got busy. “We started by pouring over the Farm Fresh Rhode Island harvest calendar,” says Ammerman, who notes that many of the one dozen illustrations were drawn and printed just before the beginning of their respective month. “That allowed me to really shop at farmers markets and have these fruits and vegetables in my hand for inspiration for the drawings.” Originally from New York’s Hudson River Valley, Ammerman attended college in Boston where she lived and worked until three years ago when the need for a change of scenery prompted a move to Rhode Island. She recalls a lifelong love

of drawing, with plants, animals, and “anything with a strong silhouette” being favorite subjects; deep reds and oranges or ocean blues and greens are her preferred colorways. “When I was working on the harvest tea towels, I really made sure to not have a bunch of green vegetables in a row. I wanted all 12 towels to have a cohesive palette and look good together in any combination,” she says. The Rhode Island Harvest Tea Towel collection includes fiddleheads for April, radishes for June, apples for October, and more. Find them at Stock Culinary Goods, 756 Hope Street. Learn more about Ammerman at CricicisDesign.com.

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Photo courtesy of Cricicis Design

Asparagus in May Rhode Island Harvest Tea Towel

Beer, Wine & Spirits Trail

Rhody

9 3

5 10

Johnston 1

APPONAUG BREWING

BRAVO BREWING

FOOLPROOF BREWING COMPANY

GREY SAIL BREWING OF RI

THE GUILD PAWTUCKET

THE GUILD PVD BEER GARDEN

THE GUILD WARREN

JONATHAN EDWARDS WINERY

MULBERRY VINEYARDS

NARRAGANSETT BREWERY

REJECTS BEER CO

SHAIDZON BEER CO

STONINGTON VINEYARDS

TAPPED APPLE WINERY

TILTED BARN BREWERY

North Kingstown

8 North Stonington, CT

12 13

4 14

Stonington, CT Westerly

TURN THE PAGE FOR MORE DETAILS

Rhody 1

Beer, Wine

APPONAUG BREWING CO.

Visit our beautiful, dogfriendly, outdoor beer garden located on the Pawtuxet River. Enjoy a diverse tap list and curated craft spirit menu along with some delicious food. 334 Knight St., Warwick. ApponaugBrewing.com

FOOLPROOF BREWING COMPANY

“Veteran owned nano-brewery specializing in new American Craft styles as well as traditional European ales and lagers. Come join us on our outdoor patio or take a seat in our spacious tap room! Family and Dog friendly! BravoBrewingCompany.com”

This Pawtucket staple brews on premise and is open 7 days a week offering daytime hours, game nights, outdoor seating, cans to-go and more. 241 Grotto Ave #1, Pawtucket. (401) 721-5970. BreweryCollective.com

THE GUILD PAWTUCKET

THE GUILD WARREN Opening in June, The Guild Warren is a small-batch brewery and beer hall located on the waterfront in Warren. Offering a full food menu, it will be open Tuesday through Sunday. 99 Water Street, Warren, TheGuildRI.com

GREY SAIL BREWING OF RI & SOUTH COUNTY DISTILLERS Enjoy the full lineup of artisan crafted beer, cocktails & spirits. Enjoy relaxing at our outdoor beer garden and tap room. Pizza made to order, and dogfriendy. 63 Canal St., Westerly. 596-4151. GreySailBrewing.com

RI’s largest craft brewery serves up small-batch beers and hard seltzers in its large beer hall and beer garden. Open to the public Tuesday through Sunday with private event space available. 461 Main St., Pawtucket. TheGuildRI.com

BRAVO BREWING COMPANY

THE GUILD PVD BEER GARDEN Along the Providence River next to the new pedestrian bridge, the beer garden will offer a wide variety of Guild Brewing Company beers and hard seltzers with a view! The Beer Garden will be open Wed.–Sun. starting May 27. TheGuildRI.com

JONATHAN EDWARDS WINERY At Jonathan Edwards Winery, enjoy award winning wine in a relaxed picturesque setting. Open daily, year round. Shop wine and event tickets online at JEdwardsWinery.com.

& Spirits Trail

SEE PREVIOUS PAGE FOR MAP OF LOCATIONS

MULBERRY VINEYARDS

From Vine to Table. Tasting hours are Saturday and Sunday 11am-4pm. Private tastings, and event rentals available. 95 Pound Road, Chepachet. 401-217-9288. MulberryVineyards.com

Waterfront brewery with large outdoor patio featuring 12 unique craft beers on draft and a full kitchen with options like flatbread pizzas, pretzels and paninis. 271 Tockwotton Street. NarragansettBeer.com

REJECTS BEER CO.

STONINGTON VINEYARDS Stonington Vineyards is one of the first CT wineries on the CT Wine Trail, open 7 days a week, year-round from 11am to 5pm. 523 Taugwonk Rd, Stonington, CT. StoningtonVineyards.com

TILTED BARN BREWERY Located in our authentic, New England-style post and beam barn, we at Tilted Barn Brewery are proud to be Rhode Island’s first farm brewery. One Hemsley Pl., Exeter. TiltedBarnBrewery.com

SHAIDZON BEER CO. Inspired globally. Brewed locally. Shaidzon started out with a passion to introduce delicious beers with influences from all over the world to the New England craft beer scene. 141 Fairgrounds Road, West Kingston. ShaidzonBeer.com

Waterfront brewery featuring craft beer with a retro vibe. Tap room, outside seating, merch room and dog friendly. Check website for seasonal happenings. 124 Aquidneck Avenue, Middletown 619-8200 RejectsBeerCo.com

NARRAGANSETT BREWERY

TAPPED APPLE CIDERY & WINERY Tapped Apple Cidery & Winery turning locally sourced apples into a variety of handcrafted hard ciders and wines. 37 High Street, Westerly. TappedApple.com

Want your brewery, vineyard/winery or distillery featured here? THERE’S STILL TIME, RUN IN OUR SEPTEMBER HEY RHODY FALL GUIDE! DEADLINE AUGUST 12 FOR MORE INFO, CONTACT MARKETING@PROVIDENCEONLINE.COM

Narragansett Middletown Westerly Storrs, CT

GANSETTWRAPS.COM

SAVE TIME ORDER ONLINE Soups Salads Wraps

scenic_narragansett Damianmarcphotography.com

Moveable Feaßtß Rhode Island restaurants and charcuterie artisans bring folks together over bountiful boards, spreads, and bites BY ABBIE LAHMERS rom curated charcuterie to communal grazing at a restaurant, this spring more than ever beckons the return of social dining experiences. The pandemic surely broadened our definition of “third place” – gathering spaces that are neither work nor home – to include picnicking in public parks and plucky restaurants and cafes transforming Main Streets into al fresco patios. Even with COVID restrictions lifted, this trend is here to stay. Whether you’re grazing inside or out, there’s no better way to make a moment special than congregating around a cheese board or splitting a spread of small bites. We’ve got everything you need to know about locally made charcuterie, snack boards, picnicking, and more. Let’s dig in!

Paßß the Tapaß

Trace back the culinary roots of most regions and you’re likely to find a variation of passed small plates somewhere in tradition. In Chinese, particularly Cantonese, cuisine, dim sum makes up a series of small-portioned snacks like steamed buns, rolls, and desserts. Pull up a seat at most Italian restaurants and you’ll find an antipasto salad – a platter of cured meats, olives, peppers, anchovies, and cheeses – in the appetizer section that begs to be shared. Then there’s tapas, which Palo in Providence has built a name around. “The popularity of shared small plate dining can be found both in the tapas of Spain and the mezze all around the Mediterranean including Lebanon, Israel, Greece, and the Maghreb,” says Samir Zaiter, owner of Palo. “We like to say that we are ‘inspired by Andalucia’ here, which includes inspiration from the various peoples that inhabited the Iberian Peninsula over time, not just modern-day Spain. As for charcuterie, we offer a selection of Spanish and local cheeses and meats that can be ordered individually, or as part of a ‘tabla’ or board.” Though known for its cafe fare, Little Sister on the East Side has also been serving tapas Friday and Saturday evenings. “As far as I know, we are the only restaurant in the state offering a modern take on Puerto Rican food by serving it tapas-style and bringing in elements of traditional Spanish cuisine as well as seasonal coastal New England. Puerto Rican cuisine is a mix of cultures between indigenous Taíno, Spanish colonial, and African enslaved people,” says owner Milena Pagan. “The wide range of influences makes for very interesting food!”

Salpicón de Mariscos is on Little Sister's tapas menu

Photo courtesy of Little Sister

TASTE THIS AVVIO RISTORANTE, Cranston Antipasto board of cured meats, artisan cheeses, and pickled vegetables LITTLE SISTER, Providence Tapas board of Chorizo and Mussels Stuffies, Hummus de Gandules, Tostones, and more MARCELINO’S, Providence Mezze menu of Goat Cheese Tacos, charcuterie, Armenian Flatbread, crudites board (coming in summer), and more NEW ASIA HOUSE, Warwick Dim sum menu of steamed buns, dumplings, chive pancakes, custard tarts, and more PALO TAPAS BAR, Providence Family-style entrees, tapas, and a Spanish cheese and sausage board

Locally milled boards are filled with artisan eats at The Cafe

Photo courtesy of The Cafe

Though traditional French charcuterie refers exclusively to prepared meats, a charcuterie board has evolved to encompass the cheeses and complementary accoutrements often served with cured cold cuts. It’s not hard to find these shareable spreads on appetizer menus across the state, often showcasing the farm-to-table bounty of local farms and creameries. Nick’s on Broadway, for example, has a focus on farm-raised and house-prepared meats – many of which are available by the block or pint to go, too. “I have always loved charcuterie, but our program really started to take shape about 13 years ago when I began bringing in and butchering whole animals from our local farms,” says Nick’s on Broadway chef Derek Wagner. “Having the entire animal to utilize provided the inspiration, opportunity, and need to find delicious and wonderful ways to use all

the different parts beyond just the most popular cuts.” Offerings rotate based on local farm availability, though the most recent plate included Baffoni Farm chicken liver pâté, a terrine made with Blackbird Farm corned beef and oxtail, toasted bread with pork tallow, and more. Other restaurants take a more customizable approach. Bar and Board Bistro in Newport, Bacaro in Providence, and Tapped Apple Cider y and Winer y in Westerly – just to name a few – provide the fixings and let g uests tailor their selection to their table’s tastes. “Our g uests choose from a list of cheeses and chorizo to make up their own boards,” says Deb Wiedenheft of Tapped Apple. “ We also offer a selection of olives, truffles from Hauser’s Chocolatiers in Westerly, and a fig jam, which is awesome on the Brie.”

A charcuterie spread of salumi and formaggio from Sarto

ESCAPE TO SCHASTEA

Your Daily

Retreat LOOSE LEAF TEA GOURMET CREPE MENU Photo courtesy of Sarto

DINE IN OR TAKE OUT

300 Broadway, PVD • 432-7202 • schastea.com

TASTE THIS Chances are good one of your favorite neighborhood eateries curates their own charcuterie spread – here’s just a handful of Rhody restaurants with artisanal and locally sourced cheese and meat boards on the menu. Not seeing your fave? Email Marketing@providenceonline.com and we’ll add it online.

Twin Oaks Classics NEW AND CLASSIC MENU ITEMS DAILY AND WEEKLY SPECIALS

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Whether it’s a platter of pretzels, chips, dips, and a pile of strawberries (just for the heck of it) or a sampler of warm appetizers, snack boards are edible, eccentric grab bags, the wild west of social dining – that is to say, there are no rules. And that’s what makes them great. When it comes to DIY entertaining , get creative with the smorgasbord of sweet and savory finger food you have on hand, from deviled eggs to artisan olive flights, mini cupcakes to fruit dipped in chocolate fondue. Just like any assemblage of graze-worthy apps, the secret is variety to please all types of eaters. When it comes to dining out, no-rules snacking goes hand in hand with pub and brewery fare. For instance, Solid Gold Provisions, operating out of the Long Live Beer works kitchen in Providence, offers Photo by Jackie Young

freewheeling bar snacks like flavored popcorn, nuts, and their Solid Gold Snack Box, ser ved in a box with a cellophane window and described as an “an adult version of a Lunchable.” At Newport Vineyard and Taproot Brewing, a “Shared Bites” menu boasts chips and housemade dips, pub pretzels, wings, oysters, and an adventurous charcuterie board (think Point Judith fish rillette and housecured meats), though their sweet treat sampler is where it’s at. “Our talented pastry team offers a monthly special dessert board featuring themed treats,” says marketing account manager Kendra Carlisle, listing everything from March Madness macarons to baked goods for Easter. “They’re great to share with the table or to celebrate a special occasion.”

TASTE THIS DUCK PRESS Wakefield Brunch board of cinnamon sugar doughnuts, mini croissants, banana bread, fresh fruit, jam, and honey HUCK’S FILLING STATION East Greenwich Lox plate of sourdough, salmon, capers, red onion, tomato, and veggie cream cheese NEWPORT VINEYARD AND TAPROOT BREWING Dessert board of rotating cookies, pastries, and sweets

Themed sweet treat boards take splitting dessert to the next level

Photo courtesy of Newport Vineyard

Snack boxes from Solid Gold Provisions, posting up at Long Live Beerworks

SOLID GOLD PROVISIONS AT LONG LIVE BEERWORKS Providence Snack box of two cured meats, semi-hard cheese, snack mix, mustard, and pickled veg

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Stoneacre Picnics turns Newport settings into intimate venues

Photo courtesy of Stoneacre Picnics

Today’s picnics are all about the experience. Many picnic ser vices not only curate a menu of gourmet delicatessen and desserts, but also treat you and your g uests to all the fixings of luxur y romp. Take Perfect Picnix, for instance, which includes all of the tableware (down to the blanket and pillows for seating ) and even playlists and lawn games. Or there’s Premier Picnics, which offers five “curated vignettes,” one set in each of the Ocean State’s five counties. The mother-and-daughter duo of Elizabeth and Alexandra Salisbury orchestrate all of the details, down to the colorful bouquets, to make an outing memorable, whether date night or bachelorette party. They partner with local vendors like Sin Bakery to offer food add-ons, too. “Dining outdoors was essential for social distancing but has continued to be a way for people to celebrate special occasions with an exciting open-air experience,” the Salisburys share. An extension of Stoneacre Brasserie, Stoneacre Picnics launched last year to provide full-ser vice, catered affairs at some of Newport’s most elegant spots. “Picnics, a classic sign of summer and a seasonal highlight, are the perfect way to (maybe play hooky?) and enjoy all of the natural beauty that Newport has to offer,” says director of marketing Nicole Canning. “Luxe linens, ambient extras, candlelight vibes – it’s all part of the ‘wow factor.’ Stoneacre Picnics isn’t just about your taste buds; it’s a treat for all of the senses. Tell us what you’re swooning over or have pinned to that ‘picnics’ inspiration board in your mind and we’ll happily bring it to life.”

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Photo courtesy of Premier Picnics

“A charcuterie board is all about abundance and the blending of different tastes,” says Jonathan Feiler, director of wine at Ocean House. Building the perfect board is more an act of curating or collage than creating a culinary masterpiece from scratch, so the good news is you don’t need to be a world-class chef (or even proficient in the kitchen) to tap into the art of charcuterie. That said, there are strategies for assembling the perfect board, from selecting morsels that speak to each other to artfully arranging everything. Local charcuterie services cater to all sizes of parties, but if you’re looking to try it yourself, read on for a compilation of tips from the pros.

CHOOSE YOUR CHEESES As a rule of thumb, always go for a variety of milk sources (cow, goat, and sheep) and textures (soft, hard, or spreadable), offering no less than three cheeses on a single board. “To build a cheese and charcuterie spread to wow guests, we want to include as many elements as possible to delight the palette,” says Ocean House’s chef Ryan Swanson, from local cheddar and gruyere to Spanish Manchego and funky gorgonzola.

TASTING NOTES Not sure where to begin? Jackie Connor of Bellevue Boards shares the flavor profiles of three go -to cheeses that work for any board.

“Encased in a chewy, edible rind, Brie carries notes of woodsy mushrooms and caramelized butter. Of French origin, Brie will always have a home on the charcuterie board, thanks to its mild flavor and easy spread-ability.”

Goat Cheeße

“Also called chèvre, goat cheese ranges from crumbly to creamy in texture with intense earthy and tangy flavors. But don’t let the creaminess fool you – goat cheese is a delicious low-fat alternative to some denser cheeses. Drizzle some honey on fresh goat cheese and you’ll be in heaven.”

Chef Ryan Swanson and director of wine Jonathan Feiler of Ocean House host a special Charcuterie & Cheese Party event on May 21 as part of the From Vine to Wine series. Reservations are required. OceanHouseEvents.com

Charcuterie Services Bellevue Boards, Newport BellevueBoards.com Customizable boards, picnics, cones, and classes Block Island Charcuterie BlockIslandCharcuterie.com Sustainably and locally sourced boards Photo courtesy of Ocean House Photo by Jackie Connor, courtesy of Bellevue Boards

Charcuterie by Celeste, North Kingstown Facebook: Charcuterie By Celeste Customizable and themed boards Chelcuterie by Chelsea, Woonsocket ChelcuterieByChelsea.com Boards of all sizes, cones, cups, and catered grazing tables Grapes & Gourmet, Jamestown GrapesAndGourmet.com Boards of all sizes and catered grazing tables Graze on Main, East Greenwich GrazeOnMainEG.com Customizable boards and pre-made platters for walk-in purchase Milk & Honey, Portsmouth MilkAndHoneyRI.com Customizable boards of all sizes

That Cheese Princess, Providence ThatCheesePrincess.com Customizable boards of all sizes

“Made from cow or goat’s milk, gouda is one of the oldest cheeses in the world and one of the most popular. Rich and pungent, it runs the spectrum from creamy to compact, nutty to sweet.”

The Perfect Parcel, Warwick ThePerfectParcel.biz Boards, gift and candy boxes, cones, workshops, and virtual experiences

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CHOOSE YOUR MEATS Cured meats like prosciutto and salami may be top of mind, but incorporating a pâté, rillette (preserved pork or game meat shredded and served as a spread), or terrine (a cold loaf served as slices) can bring your charcuterie board to the next level with a nod to its French origins. No matter which prepared meats you choose, go for a variety of spice levels and textures.

TASTING NOTES Amelia Wilson of Grapes & Gourmet shares her top picks when it comes to classic and daring charcuterie choices.

Though several popular cured meats are Italian or French in origin, you can find local producers pur veying farm-raised sausage and beef in the same style. Charcuterie is the specialty at Martinelli’s Farm in North Scituate, where Frank Martinelli raises his livestock all naturally to create Sweet Sopressata, Bourbon and Bacon Dr y Salame, finocchiona, and more. “My animals are born and raised on the farm,” says Martinelli. “Hogs are the only animal that tastes like what they eat. I feed my hogs a special diet of dairy, short-dated yogurt, cheese, and milk. They also get spent grain from micro breweries, acorns, and fresh vegetables when available. On Sundays they are treated with Italian no-preservative bread.” Watching his two grandmothers making cured meats growing up, he says, “I just thought it would be a great idea to offer a variety of salamis from hogs on a special diet as it’s done in Europe and especially Italy.” MartinellisFarm.com Photo courtesy of Grapes & Gourmet

“A French classic, this thick, dry cured sausage is balanced and mild in flavor but still very delicious.”

“One of my favorite Italian meats – there are a bunch of different types of prosciutto but all are thin, salty, and amazing. It melts in your mouth.”

“I love pâté and personally feel that it should be on every charcuterie board. It’s very earthy and aromatic, rich and herbaceous. The taste of liver really comes through.”

“Since we’re in Rhode Island, I almost always opt for hot soppressata. It’s rustic, savory, and spicy.”

CHOOSE YOUR EXTRAS Any additions – nuts, olives, fruit, spreads, and garnishes – are optional but when used correctly, uplift the stars of the board: the meat and cheese.

Photo courtesy of Charcuterie by Celeste

“Shopping at local farmers markets and keeping your eye out for fresh produce will do your charcuterie board wonders. Add in some crunch with salted almonds, along with local honey and fresh herbs, and you’re golden! For the finishing touch, include a little something sweet – it may just be my personal preference, but no board is complete without a little chocolate.”

“I always love to add fresh greens on any of my boards: rosemar y, thyme, basil. And I’m a big fan of edible flowers. Herbs and flowers make any board stand out and look fresh.”

“Our cheese boards are like a canvas on which to create a custom edible artwork. I was inspired to carve fruit [for a recent board] into some fun flowers. It’s nice to make our boards look pretty as well as taste delicious with all the freshest and highest quality products available.”

– JACKIE CONNOR, BELLEVUE BOARDS

– AMELIA WILSON, GRAPES & GOURMET

– AMELIA JONES, CHARCUTERIE BY CELESTE

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ARRANGE

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The Cheese Corner, Westerly

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The Cheese Wheel Village Market, Tiverton Edgewood Cheese Shop, Cranston

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Neapolis Food Emporium, South Kingstown

FoodLove Market, Middletown

Newport Wine Cellar & Gourmet

Gastros Craft Meat, Woonsocket

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“I aim to keep like-colors away from one another. For example, keeping your green grapes, kiwi, and olives separated really helps elevate the board so that you have clusters of green throughout and not on top of each other. Just like making a meal for someone you love, composing a charcuterie board that has been intricately styled and designed shows your recipient your love for them.”

Martinelli’s, North Scituate

Photo courtesy of Milk & Honey

“I majored in theater at Fordham University, and much of my curriculum was focused on design standards and principles. One principle that I draw from often when arranging my spreads is the Rule of Three. The principle states that things arranged in odd numbers – in particular threes – are more appealing to the eye. I tr y to have three groupings of berries, nuts, etc.” – KALEIGH BERNIER, BLOCK ISLAND CHARCUTERIE

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“I like to make my boards in steps. Cheese is always first, then the charcuterie meats, followed by any larger items like bowls, dips, and grapes. Then, you fill all the blank spaces with nuts, berries, dried fruits, and finally garnish to bring it all together! The key to making it visually appealing is to cut the cheese and style the meat so there are a variety of textures and shapes. I also prefer not to see any empty space on the board, until people start to dig in of course!

Most charcuterie experts agree on the standard three ounces of cheese and one ounce of meat minimum per person when served as an appetizer – but that doesn’t mean you can’t go big. “With six or more ounces, your guests will have the opportunity to experiment with the various combinations of cured meats and cheeses to find their favorite pairing, as opposed to having just a small sample of each item. Who knows, you may adore the primo sale tartufo, but only when it’s paired with the golfetta and fig jam!” – ELYSE PARE, GRAZE ON MAIN

“We created a custom board for a customer who wanted to highlight her homemade hot pepper jelly. We identified a few cheeses to pair with it – our favorites were Taleggio, Lamb Chopper, and Red Witch – and also included a Habanero Hibiscus Spread from Warren producer Kassumay.” – NINA PEASE, MILK & HONEY

Shop Local “Give your guests something they can’t find at their local grocery store. Pre-packaged cheese and meats from Trader Joe’s are great for on the fly, but if you’re looking for a standout board, visit your local gourmet shops. Rhode Island is a foodie state and has lots of options for finding unique goods!” – ELYSE PARE, GRAZE ON MAIN

? “I like to pair a variety of wines from different regions and styles. I always add in something sparkling and a rosé, white, and red. I particularly like to pair the wine with the destination of the meats and cheese and then add in some unique grape varieties to take the guests on a unique journey.” – JONATHAN FEILER, DIRECTOR OF WINE AT OCEAN HOUSE

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Explore the vibrant history of the Narragansett Bay region, its resilient communities and the adaptive possibilities for its future through designs from six universities in the Envision Resilience Narragansett Bay Challenge.

Join us for an Open House on Saturday, June 4, 2022 | 4 to 7pm Light Bites and Drinks, FREE Featuring work from: University of Rhode Island, Rhode Island School of Design, Roger Williams University, Syracuse University, Northeastern University and University of Florida WaterFire Arts Center l Gallery 475 Valley Street Providence, RI 02908 Exhibition Open June 4 through June 26 Wednesday – Sunday | Open 10:00 am – 5:00 pm Open until 9:00 p.m. Thursdays A solar array shelters a market, community space by Tsu-Chun Hsu (Austin) of RISD

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The Envision Resilience Challenge is sponsored by ReMain Nantucket. Learn more at www.envisionresilience.org.

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A Paw t u xet V i l l a g e c re p e r i e t ra n sfo r m s i nto a Parisian cocktail bar after dark By Laura Afonso

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Namur with Brie and almonds

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Photos by Jacquelina Paiva

s the day winds down in Cranston’s Pawtuxet Village, Crepe Corner transforms from a bright and cheer y brunch spot to Soiree Belge, a Parisian lounge fit for the crescendo of your evening. Day or night, owners Anthony Adagboyi and Natacha Legein are bringing French and Belgian flavors to the neighborhood. But once the clock strikes 5:30pm, the vibe shifts. “Think French jazz, Afrobeat, and your favorite martini or bourbon cocktails,” says Legein. The morning’s mimosas and croque madames are replaced with Kir Royals and savory naan flatbreads for an after-hours indulgence. On a night out with a friend to experience Soiree Belge myself, the first

A crepe spread of savory and sweet

thing we notice is the comfort and class. Live music contributes to a sultry, vivacious energ y. It’s the kind of setting that attracts a ladies’ night out for Dulce de Leche Martinis, or a nightcap after a romantic date. A large plush sofa invites intimate conversations over martinis, and bistro tables offer seating for groups to enjoy the scene. Whether you’re in the mood to socialize or wind down, the atmosphere is relaxing yet lively. Beginning the evening on a sweet note, first we devoured the Banana Split Crepe, filled with pastry cream, bananas, and cookie crumble, and topped with a salted caramel spread. According to Legein, the menu of thoughtfully crafted sweet creations come from “traditional French and Belgian recipes that have been passed from my grandmother, to my mother, and now are used every day in the restaurant.” With both sweet and savory options, there is something on the menu to entice everyone.

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The cocktails match the mood. The Bailaffogato – local vanilla ice cream topped with espresso and cream liquor – makes for the sweetest good night kiss. But Adagboyi’s and Legein’s favorites are the Chocolate Martini (with Godiva chocolate and Kahlua) and the French Blonde, a cocktail comprising vodka, elderflower liqueur, grapefruit, and lemon. If you’re in the mood for a light bite, the Namur is ideal. A soft and fluff y naan bread is toasted with slices of creamy Brie cheese, then sprinkled with crushed almonds and drizzled with hot honey. It’s elegant yet zesty and pairs nicely with an old fashioned or one of many martinis on the menu. While I usually lean toward sweet crepes, not to be overlooked is the savory Le Complet. House-grilled chicken is wrapped neatly into a toasty crepe blanket along with fresh mushrooms, chopped crispy bacon, and layers of

cheese and creamy sauce. This indulgent and rich crepe could easily be a satisfying meal on its own. Soiree Belge takes place ever y evening Thursday through Saturday, and the last Friday of the month now features a four-course prix-fixe tasting , paired with wine. “All the dishes are traditional to France and Belgium, with a new menu ever y month,” says Legein. Reser vations are a must. From brunch to aperitif, sometimes you just don’t want the day to end, and Soiree Belge keeps it going in an absolutely delicious way. Follow @bunsandbites on Instagram for more of Laura Afonso’s foodie best bets.

Crepe Corner, Soiree Belge 2170 Broad Street, Cranston 401-461-2170 • CrepeCornerRI.com

DINING

Mediterranean Mezze Easy sheet pan chicken thighs and veggies take a page from Greek cooking By Liz M u r ray

nf use Mediterr anean f lavors into your home cooking with this quick and effor tless Greek chicken and veggie dish. Chicken thighs – along with a medley of zucchini, potatoes , celer y, and onion – are marinated with olive oil, thyme, lemon , and garlic, tossed on a sheet pan , and roasted. Cr umble feta cheese over the top and voila – dinner is ser ved !

SOURCE LOCAL A traditional Mediterranean diet, made up of lean meats, vegetables, whole grains, and heart-healthy fats, comes with the benefits of lowering the risk of chronic conditions. To satisfy your Greek cuisine fix, expand your palate with these local markets and restaurants. Andreas, Providence Kleos, Providence Neos Greek Restaurant, Woonsocket Sonia’s Deli, Cranston The Village Greek, food truck Yia Yia’s Café, Middletown Yoleni’s, Providence

Photo by Liz Murray

G R E E K R OA ST E D C H I C K E N T H I G H S A N D V EG G I E S

Alicia Reynolds

I N GR EDI ENTS • 4 large boneless, skinless chicken thighs • 1 tsp extra virgin olive oil to coat the pan • 2 stalks celery, chopped • 4 large russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes • 1 large zucchini, stem removed and cubed • 1 large yellow onion, chopped • Handful of feta cheese, crumbled • Thyme for garnish • ¾ cup chicken broth

For the marinade • 6 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil • ¼ cup fresh squeezed lemon juice, rinds reserved • 1 Tbsp white wine vinegar • 5 garlic cloves, minced or pressed • 1 Tbsp fresh thyme, stems removed and minced • 1 tsp Italian seasoning or dried oregano • ¼ tsp pink Himalayan salt • Fresh cracked pepper

STEP S 1. Prepare the marinade. Pour olive oil into a medium-sized bowl; add lemon juice, white wine vinegar, garlic, thyme, Italian seasoning, salt, and pepper. Mix well. Save the lemon rinds from juicing for the baking sheet. 2. Place the chicken thighs into a resealable bag. Pour half the marinade over the chicken, reserving the other half. Close the bag and work the marinade into the chicken. Allow the chicken to marinate in the refrigerator for at least half an hour, or overnight. 3. Preheat the oven to 425ºF. Heat a large stainless steel skillet over mediumhigh heat and add olive oil (enough to coat the pan). Using tongs, place marinated chicken thighs into the hot pan. Allow them to cook on each side until beginning to turn golden brown, about 4 minutes per side.

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4. Transfer the chicken to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Immediately pour the chicken broth into the hot pan and turn the heat off. Using a wooden spoon, scrape off all of the brown bits on the bottom of the pan. Set the pan sauce aside. 5. Toss the cubed potatoes, zucchini, onions, and celery with the remaining olive oil marinade. Pour them onto the baking sheet around the chicken thighs. Add the reserved lemon rinds to the baking sheet. 6. Cook until the chicken thighs reach 165ºF and the potatoes are cooked through, typically 35-40 minutes. Once ready, remove and sprinkle feta cheese over everything. Garnish with thyme. 7. Plate the chicken and veggies, then pour the reserved pan sauce over the top. Enjoy! TIP: Don’t use a non-stick pan to sear the chicken. You’ll want bits of the chicken to stick to the pan to season it before deglazing it with chicken broth for the most flavor possible! A stainless steel pan or a cast iron dutch oven is the best option for this step. For more tips and recipes, visit RecipeHippie.com

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DINING

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Italian Grinders from Lou Umberto’s

Lobster Ro l l Beach-themed names dominate the Bay Street Deli menu (think Misquamicut Club and Chief Ninigret), where sandwiches are so good, one of my brothers proposed to his now-wife over them. But I would be remiss if I didn’t highlight the lobster rolls. Locals and seasonal visitors (including a few celebs) wait all winter for these bad boys – house-made rolls heaped with cold or hot lobster. Watch Hill, BayStreetDeliWH.com

B reakfast S am m i e Off the beaten path inside the Newport Shipyard grounds, Belle’s Cafe is a coastal gem slinging one of the most tempting breakfast sandwiches around. Regulars can’t get enough of their signature Shipyard Sandwich with eggs, cheese, and your choice of meat and bread, including a croissant option if you’re feeling Francais. Or you can brunch on an eggs bennie, lox sandwich, paninis, and other light fare. NewportShipyard.com

NY-Styl e Del i You need two hands to eat even half of an East Ferry Deli sandwich! I say this from experience. This townie fave overlooking the bay and the Newport Bridge has a huge menu of speciality and build-your-own options. Along with the classic hot pastrami and Swiss, chicken salad, and roast beef you’d expect, there’s a number of tasty vegetarian options like hummus wraps and a garden burger. Jamestown, EastFerryDeli.com

Jamai c an Patty Experience a taste of Jamaica with JA Patty’s

hand-made hand-helds. Fans go gaga over the flaky crust and all-natural filling choices – from meat and fish to veggie, plus an apple pie dessert version. Since launching as a food truck in 2018, they have branched out to a “truck stop” on Mineral Spring Avenue while still making the rounds at food festivals and catering events. Pawtucket, JAPatty.com

C u b an o Whether you sit indoors or on their patio, you’ll definitely want to order a frozen drink, some sweet plantains or fried yuca, and a Cubano. La Casona Restaurant’s spin on a popular street food includes pork, cheese, and mayo (instead of mustard) on lightly toasted bread. This Colombian restaurant gets high marks for friendly service and being a must-try spot among Rhode Island’s Latin cuisine scene. Central Falls, LaCasonaUS.com

I tal i an Gr i n d er Lou Umberto’s is an Italian kitchen and pizzeria in Cranston’s Little Italy (AKA Knightsville), but it feels like a deli on Arthur Avenue

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Photo by Talia Pirri Photography, courtesy of Lou Umberto’s

hen the 4th Earl of Sandwich’s cook first put meat between two slices of bread in 1762 – to spare the aristocrat from getting up from his card game – history was made. Fast-forward through centuries of influences and innovation, and you’ll find Rhode Island eateries have taken liberties to advance the idea of the “modern sandwich” with a slew of hand-held options. From lobster rolls to grinders and everything in between, here’s a handful of top-shelf sandwich makers crafting some of the finest.

in the Bronx. This cozy, Old World-inspired establishment is a neighborhood favorite and known to attract out-of-towners for their authentic Italian grinders loaded with meats, cheese, peppers, and more, topped with an oil and vinegar dressing on a super fresh roll. Cranston, LouUmbertosItalianKitchen.com

Empanad a Keep your eyes peeled for pop-ups this season from Matilda RI because, quite simply, these are some of the yummiest empanadas you’ll find. Customers are obsessed with the hot and crispy, Dominican-inspired savory (Beefy Mac, Cuban, and Tri Veg , to name a few) and sweet varieties from this family-owned business. Also watch for a Tilda Food Bus rolling onto the scene soon. MatildaRI.com

Bánh Mì Ming’s Asian Street Food began as a food truck and recently expanded to a Sando Bar in Lorraine Mills. Among other things, they’ve become known for their bánh mì, a scrumptious Vietnamese sandwich on a warm baguette. Find the classic version with lemongrass pork, liver pate, pickled veg, spicy mayo, and cilantro, along with some fun twists like tofu and Chinese BBQ pork. Pawtucket, MingsRI.com

Vegan S a n d wi c h I met the owner of Sprout & Lentil, vegan chef Carmen Foy, a few years ago and can tell you that she and her team always cook up a wide variety of delicious plant-based takeout, including sandwiches and burgers. Popular ones include the Chickpea “Chickun” Salad, Philly Cheeze, and veggie burgers. Catch them at the Aquidneck Growers Market every Saturday morning this summer. Middletown, SproutAndLentil.com

Fried Ch i c ke n Waterfront restaurant Square Peg (or “the Peg” to regulars) is perfect for a cold drink and comfort food with a group of friends, or even a solo stop while cycling the nearby East Bay Bike Path. Try a crispy buttermilk-fried chicken sandwich with coleslaw and a pickle, or the buffalo version with blue cheese. Fries and mozzarella sticks on the side are a must. Warren, SquarePegWarren.com

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THE NORDIC CELEBRATES A FLOOR MANAGER’S TENURE & THE START OF THEIR SUMMER SEASON “It's been an amazing 42-year journey with The Nordic,” says floor manager Michael S. Conley, who has worked at the Charlestown restaurant since 1980. Conley started out in the kitchen as a line cook before working his way up to floor management, which he’s enjoyed for the past 20 years. “While at the Nordic I earned a bachelor's degree in psychology and met my beautiful wife while she was dining there in 2002,” Conley shares. “I've learned that working as a team produces great results in managing every aspect of a restaurant, especially in customer satisfaction.” Conley describes a zen-like experience of dining at The Nordic, where guests can unwind and be treated to a vast selection of highquality seafood. “I'm a hands-on floor manager,” says Conley, whose first goal is ensuring each customer is treated like family. “My favorite part of the job is creating genuine relationships with the customers and staff members. I find the most joy helping customers feel comfortable and happy. We are truly blessed to have one of the best staffs in the world.” Attracting throngs of locals and vacationers alike during the summer months, The Nordic has fans from near and far. “Customers fly and drive to us from all over the country,” says Conley. “Words can't describe the elation we feel from the love for our buffet.” Thankfully, The Nordic recently reopened for the season in April to celebrate another Ocean State summer with all-you-can-eat seafood, lakeside views, gourmet dessert bar, and much more!

TheNordic.com 178 Nordic Trail Charlestown

DINING

The Chef Next Door

La Vec i n a Ta q u e r i a ’ s M a r i a n a G o n z a l e z-Trasvina dishes up the authentic Mexic a n t a co s o f h e r c h i l d h o o d By Karen Greco

Chef Mariana Gonzalez-Trasvina

memories [of Mexico] are spent around the table, sharing stories about how a dish was made, or how my great-great-grandmother first made our masa recipe,” she says. “It helped me connect with my culture.” Nostalgia for home fuels La Vecina’s menu. “I dug into my memories. What stood out for me whenever I went to Mexico City? What foods did I long for all year ?” She began with the masa for the tortilla. “ There’s actually thousands of types of corn that are native to Mexico. There’s red, there’s purple, there’s yellow. You don’t see it up here because of the climate,” she says. By using blue corn masa instead of white, GonzalezTrasvina was able to conjure a more authentic eating experience. “Blue masa actually has a lot more depth because the grain is less processed. You taste that earthy flavor.” Because this is a taqueria, six different tacos are on the menu, including the al pastor, which

Gonzalez-Trasvina calls the taco of Mexico City. “It actually has its background from Middle Eastern immigrants,” she explains. “The al pastor looks very much like the shish kebab. Meat on a skewer, marinated and slow roasted,” she ticks off the similarities. “But the Mexican people used pork instead of lamb, because that’s the meat we had available. Then all the spices, the chili, the pineapple. It turned into this beautiful taco that is very representative of the city I was born in. “It took me maybe five or six attempts to actually get the marinade right,” she adds with a laugh. Following a late-April opening , GonzalezTrasvina remains astonished by the reception her restaurant concept received. “I was not expecting that it would be embraced as quickly as it was. You do get a little ner vous making food that maybe people haven’t tried before,” she says. “But when you do something that’s close to your heart, you can taste the outcome.” Hey Rhody DINING MAY 2022 |

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Photo by Erin McGinn, courtesy of La Vecina Taqueria

“T

here’s just something so comforting about eating a good taco,” says Mariana Gonzalez-Trasvina. The executive chef of Bar Cino is also running the kitchen of La Vecina Taqueria, a new Mexican street food-inspired eatery she coconceived with Newport Restaurant Group. “When restaurants were allowed to reopen [during the pandemic], Bar Cino could operate only at 50 percent capacity with the restrictions,” explains Gonzalez-Trasvina. She and her team brainstormed ways to get the restaurant to full capacity and bring everyone back to work. Taking over an empty retail space beside Bar Cino expanded their footprint enough that they returned to normal numbers. But when restrictions were lifted, they had a new space they needed to fill. “Bar Cino was not meant to double its capacity,” she says. So they decided to try a two-week pop-up. “Our beverage director, Shawn Westhoven, was GM at the time, and he told me to cook what I loved,” she says. For Gonzalez-Trasvina, cooking from the heart meant cuisine from her native Mexico City. La Vecina (its translation means “the girl next door”) was born. Gonzalez-Trasvina left Mexico City at eight, when her mother’s corporate job brought them to Puerto Rico. She discovered cooking while living on the island and decided to get her culinary degrees (two of them, one in pastry and one in culinary arts) from Johnson & Wales University. “I love pastry; that’s what put me in the kitchen,” she says. “But what makes me passionate are the cultures behind the foods, and that’s reflected more on the savory side.” While in Providence, Gonzalez-Trasvina fell in love with southern New England and opted to remain local. She started cooking with Newport Restaurant Group as an intern, working her way through their various kitchens before becoming vested in the employee-owned company and taking the reins at Bar Cino. There, she was nominated for a Rising Star Award by the James Beard Foundation in 2020. But the inspiration for La Vecina came from roots firmly planted in Mexico. “My best

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DRINKING I n f u s i o n K i t s | Te a C u l t u re | M o c k t a i l s | C a l e n d a r

68 Elevate your spring sipping with spirit infusion kits Photo courtesy of DRANKSbyday

DRINKING

Happy Hour at Home New f l avo r ful beverage infus i o n k i t b iz h e lp s nov i ce m i xologists ra i se the ba r By Kou Tukala Nyan

SHAKE IT UP DRANKS’ first and most popular kit is Lemonade Stand containing dehydrated lemon, elderberr y buds, strawberr y, and pure cane sugar. For a refreshing yet simple bevvie, infuse with your favorite spirit and add lemonade. For a summer y spin on a classic cocktail, Passaretti shares, “A cosmopolitan is the way to go!” LEMONADE STAND COSMOPOLITAN 2 oz Lemonade Stand mix ½ oz of cranberr y juice 1 oz orange liqueur ½ oz fresh lime juice Shake the ingredients with ice, strain, and pour into a coup glass. Garnish with a lime wheel and enjoy !

A refreshing spin on a cosmo using the Lemonade Stand kit

ackaged in a mason jar with a piece of twine tied into a bow around the opening , the farmers market presentation suggests sweet jams or preserves inside. Twist open the lid and instead find an aromatic blend of dried fruits and spices ready to be soaked in your spirit of choice. This is the deceptively simple concept behind DRANKSbyday, with a vision of curating refreshing cocktails and mocktails at home. “DRANKSbyday offers an all-natural craft cocktail experience, bringing happy hour to you,” says Providence-based founder Dayna Passaretti. “Each infusion kit has a combination of pre-measured fruits, spices, herbs, and sweeteners that have suggested spirit pairings for each flavor,” like rum or bourbon in the vanilla, espresso, and cinnamon Dirty Chai or gin in the floral-forward Sprung mix. After 10 years of bartending , the pandemic paused her work for a bit, and Passaretti found

herself in need of a creative outlet. “I was looking into different ways to create cocktails and bring people an at-home experience,” she says. While a couple of base spirits, citrus fruits, and store-bought mixers are common elements of many a liquor cabinet, flavorful infusions raise the bar, so to speak, to truly bring that elevated nightlife experience home. Passaretti first created the spirit-infusion kits as gifts for friends and family, then officially launched DRANKS almost a year ago. “All it took was one friend to say, ‘hey, I think that’s a great idea – do it!’” she says, “and I’m glad I did.” Passaretti advises following the packaging for suggested spirit pairings if you don’t know where to start, or you can experiment with soaking the mix in a different liquor you have on hand. From there, it’s simple: infuse for two to three days – shaking the jar once a day – then strain. For spicy kits like Tropic Like It’s Hot and Firecracker, taste the second day and

continue to infuse for a spicier result. Each jar serves up to eight drinks. A kit can last up to two years, and with alcohol, up to a month. Ditching the booze? No problem – swap in an alcohol-free base to create mocktails. Passaretti even offers a sugar-free option – Pear Naked – for the health-conscious sipper with just pear, ginger, and lemon, and she strives to use locally sourced ingredients in all varieties. With an environmentally conscious mindset, Passaretti encourages customers to reuse the kit’s mason jar. As more local retailers are picking up her brand (and a specialty cocktail even appears on the menu at The District in Providence – Spicy Mango, infused by Tropic Like It’s Hot), Passaretti hopes to expand her wholesale business and branch out into events, too. In the meantime, watch for seasonal varieties popping at farmers markets, so you can DRANK up the flavors of summer. DranksByDay.com

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Photos courtesy of DRANKSbyday

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The Art of Tea Provi d e n ce te a h o u s e s ste e p perfe ct i o n w i t h c u rate d cerem o n i e s , a u t h e nt i c fl avors , a nd cozy am bi an ce By An Uong

he thought of tea often conjures the act of tossing a simple bag of leaves (where from – who knows ?) into a mug and steeping in boiling water for a minute or two. Look past the steaming cup and you’ll find a vast world of flavors, agricultural practices, and rituals unique to the meditative quality of brewing and drinking tea. From specialty boba to tea ceremonies, Providence’s brickand-mortar teahouses are asking customers to slow down and enjoy the art of tea.

Michelle Cheng curates a personalized experience at Ceremony

T EA C U LT U RE Having grown up in Anhui, China, which is famous for its green teas, Michelle Cheng of Ceremony was raised around tea culture. From her grandparents, she learned that the best teas are purchased directly from farmers. Before opening the College Hill cafe, she started out selling premium loose leaf teas through Leafy Green Tea, sourcing directly from small farms in China, Taiwan, and Japan. While hosting tea ceremony classes in local cafes on weekends,

customers kept approaching her for tips on how to recreate the experience in their own homes. They wanted to know about the teaware, table clothes, and even the music that she played. “ That led me to realize that we were more than a tea company,” Cheng shares. “ We were organically developing into a lifestyle brand, which is why we’re called Ceremony, because we sell more than just tea. Our brand and our cafe is a representation of a way of life.” Towards the end of 2019, Cheng opened Ceremony on Thayer Street, its first location. Hey Rhody DINING MAY 2022 |

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R h o d e I s l a n d ’ s g row i n g t e a s c e n e h a s a we a l t h o f o f f e r i n g s t o ex p l o re , w h e t h e r s i t t i n g d ow n w i t h a T h a i i c e d te a i n a c a f e o r p u rc h a s i n g l o o s e - l e a f b l e n d s t o fo s t e r a r i t u a l a t h o m e . Banh Mi & Bubble Tea, Cranston Facebook: Banh Mi & Bubble Tea Black Leaf Tea, Providence TheBlackLeafTea.com Bubble Tea House, Providence Facebook: Bubble Tea House

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While the new Ceremony on Brook Street still offers cafe drinks like lattes and espresso, it also houses a space dedicated to private tea sessions, something the old location didn’t have. “I really wanted to elevate the tea ceremony experience,” Cheng says, specifically through the Gong Fu brewing ceremony. As Cheng shares, Gong Fu in Chinese culture refers to something that requires time, effort, and energ y to execute. Particularly, Gong Fu Cha is a Hey Rhody DINING MAY 2022 |

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KALASTYLE.COM 71

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widely practiced tea brewing technique in China that comes with many careful steps taken to coax flavor and body from tea leaves. First, the tea is brewed in a Gai Wan, a vessel consisting of a base, a bowl, and a lid. It’s then poured through a strainer into a Gong Dao Bei, a small, clear pitcher used to ser ve the tea to g uests. In total, the tea is brewed six times, which transforms its taste and appearance.

Going on this journey with tea is crucial to understanding the many nuances of any given tea in Ceremony’s selection. Throughout the session, Ceremony’s tea experts adjust water temperatures, steeping times, and amount of teas accordingly as the steeping cycles continue. When sourcing for Ceremony’s roster of teas and market offerings, Cheng says it took three years to find, visit, and familiarize

herself with the small family farmers that she works with today. When a customer drove in from out of state to purchase a wood-fired soy sauce imported from Taiwan to gift to her grandmother, Cheng was touched. “She sent pictures of her grandma making braised chicken with it. It reminded me of my grandma,” Cheng says. “Bringing joy and a sense of comfort to others is the fuel that keeps me going.” Hey Rhody DINING MAY 2022 |

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Photo by Erin McGinn Photography, courtesy of Ceremony

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Charuma sources tea from a family-owned farm in Taiwan I’m getting and what I’m saying to my customers,” Chang shares. As for their bubble tea, Charuma only uses real milk (as opposed to dairy powders). “They’re very picky about bubble tea in Taiwan,” Lu says. “There’s a boba place on almost every corner, so it can be very competitive. You have to be really, really good to survive in Taiwan.” For Lu, inhouse bubbles made from tapioca flour imported from Taiwan were non-negotiable from the start. Customers also get to choose their own sugar levels. “I don’t want our customers to just drink something sweet that covers the taste of tea,”

Chang shares. “The quality and the taste of the tea is really important to us, along with consistency.” Together with savory food items like French fries, sweet potato fries, popcorn chicken, and chicken cutlets, Charuma aims to bring customers an authentic Taiwanese bubble tea and street snack experience. “After years of being here, I still couldn’t find a chicken cutlet that reminded me of the Taiwanese one,” Lu laments. That’s why she and Chang import seasonings from Taiwan to use in Charuma’s snack menu. From seaweed salt and pepper to plum, the spices complement the teas in a dance of flavor.

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Photos courtesy of Charuma

Tom Chang and Jenny Lu, along with business partner Tony Chen, opened Downtown tea house Charuma in July 2021, offering a menu of singleorigin teas, milk tea options with homemade tapioca pearls, and Taiwanese street snacks. As students in Providence – Chang at Johnson & Wales and Lu at RISD – they tried all the bubble (or boba) tea that the city had to offer. Still, they were left in want of flavors that reminded them of the boba and street foods they would have in Taiwan. “It’s very classic at a Taiwanese night market to hold bubble tea in one hand and a fried chicken cutlet in the other hand,” Lu says. When they set out to open Charuma, Chang, Chen, and Lu made it a point to carefully source their teas. Chang spent a year in Taiwan researching teas at his friend’s family-owned tea farm. From there, he picked six different teas that can now be found on Charuma’s menu: black tea, jasmine green tea, light oolong tea, smoky oolong tea, pu-erh tea, and formosa beauty tea. While in Taiwan, Chang learned about the process of tea production, from harvesting tea leaves based on flavor and caffeine level to drying on bamboo trays to roasting for different varieties. Chang made it a point to learn about these nuances. “Ultimately, I want to know what

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Schasteâ serves up tea by the pot to enjoy in their cafe or to go

Photos courtesy of Schasteâ

On the West Side of Providence is Schasteâ, which originally opened in Pawtuxet Village in 2012 and expanded into Providence in 2017. Since the pandemic, the Pawtuxet location has closed, but the Broadway location remains a staple in the city offering a space to slow down with tea and crepes. As one of the first teahouses in the Providence area to challenge customers to sit down and enjoy the ritual of drinking tea, Schasteâ offers unique blends such as Lychee Peach, White Coconut Créme, and White Guava Ginger, among others. They’re also a pur veyor of tea-ware and loose-leaf tea by the ounce, empowering customers to take their tea journey home. Afterall, this journey, for Schasteâ owner Tony Lopez, started at home, where he and his wife made a ritual out of slowing down their days in order to make a cup of tea and enjoy it with candles, music, and a warm ambiance. Whenever they sought out a place like this in Providence, they came up empty. In a world that moves so fast, Lopez wanted a space that would welcome mindfulness. “ We’re an escape in the neighborhood, if you will,” he offers. “Ever ybody’s always thinking about the next moment. We like to remind customers that good things take time. So they have to sit and wait three minutes for their tea to steep.” In the time that the tea is steeping , Lopez hopes that Schasteâ’s customers are able to unwind a bit and let their minds wander. “ We’ve seen customers meet, date, and get married. We’ve seen people start books, finish books, or start businesses,” Lopez says. At Schasteâ, the mission is to be as approachable and accessible as possible. While the teahouse certainly has its fair share of specialty teas sourced carefully from pur veyors around the globe, Lopez is careful not to overcomplicate things for customers. “A lot of times people just get over whelmed and say ‘give me whatever,’” he says. “So we tr y to strike a balance by just starting off with giving them enough knowledge to make it interesting.” At the end of the day, it’s about giving g uests the chance to take those three minutes to be mindful when the rest of the world may be spinning at hyper speed.

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Photos by Cassidy Bissitt, courtesy of 345 by Plant City

Mixologist Darnell Holguin helped develop 345’s drink program

ith no signage beyond a markedly unflashy “345” posted above a black awning to denote the South Water Street address, Plant City’s new bar concept crept onto the scene last month. Across the parking lot from the vegan food hall, you enter through the bakery and prep kitchen (where friendly cook Julio will likely wave hello), set foot through another door, and find yourself transported. “We wanted people to have that moment when they walk through that black door in the back of the bakery like Alice in Wonderland falling through the looking glass,” says Kim Anderson, co-founder of Plant City who, along with executive chef Luis Jaramillo, developed the speakeasy-style 345, a space that’s both dimly lit and cozy but lush with accents of greenery. “I don’t know if you noticed that we have seven black pigs sitting on the bar,” Jaramillo says coyly. “There’s seven black pigs with golden feet and golden wings.” He explains that for months he had been pitching the idea to Anderson of a bar “that’s a little bit different, that encompasses our [plant-based] ideolog y, our philosophy.” Anderson’s answer ? “ When pigs fly.” Of course, this was during the height of COVID when the idea began to take shape – a few months ago, emerging somewhat from the pandemic, the timing was right and Anderson greenlit the project. Jaramillo, a long-time consultant and chef who owned his own restaurant in New York City, has been with Plant City since opening. Though there are three full bars inside Plant City, Jaramillo says, “it’s much more of a higher volume, so serving high-end cocktails to 1,000 people per night is impossible.” Enlisting the help of good friend and award-winning NYC-based mixologist Darnell Holguin, Jaramillo started laying out veg-forward flavors like celery and beet juice. At a typical speakeasy bar, he says, “You get their version of another cocktail. I was much more interested in utilizing savory items that go well with alcohol.” The result is concoctions like Medical-Medium – a gin drink featuring celery juice and yuzu liqueur, garnished with a leafy celery stalk – or Phat Beet with cachaça (a Brazilian sugar cane spirit) and golden beet juice. And mocktails are given the same level of attention. “There are a lot of people who choose not to drink alcohol for a myriad of reasons and I want them to still be able to have this speakeasy experience,” says Anderson. Instead of a club soda and lime, nondrinkers can have “the funky fun creative cocktail experience with the gorgeous garnish and the cool Instagram pics.” Jaramillo and Holg uin developed Liquid Gold, for instance, which uses the leftover fruit from the citrus peel garnishes from other drinks. “ We hate waste, so we combine them into a juice,” says Jaramillo. “ We mix it with jalapeños, mint, and simple syrup and came up with this beautiful mocktail.” The vibe at 345 is all about bringing people together over drinks and shareable apps, the experience of splitting apart a tapioca pearl-based version of pork Chicharrones or digging into the bountiful “Seasonal Raw Bar” of veggies and hummus. “Coming out of three years of not being able to see one another, not being able to be around someone that you enjoy the presence of, it’s time that we have some social interactions, a social space where we can actually share,” says Jaramillo. As a homage to this cozy nook that almost wasn’t, “When Pigs Fly” will soon land on the cocktail menu with a daring blend of carrot juice, miso, and bourbon. @345plantcity

DRINKING

10 essential events this month May 1: Celebrate the start of the local

growing season at Four Town Farm with a tour of their 150-acre asparag us farm. Enjoy themed dishes by chef-instructors from Johnson & Wales University. Seekonk, EventBrite: Farm Fresh Rhode Island

May 2: The Giusto team partners with Yagi Noodles, TSK , Sup Dog Supper Club, and others for Restaurants For Relief, a culinar y experience supporting humanitarian aid for Ukraine through World Central Kitchen. Newport, GiustoNewport.com

May 7: InDowncity kicks off the popular Open Air Saturdays with an outdoor stroll, inviting guests to enjoy all downtown has to offer with live music, beer gardens, marketplaces, games, food, and more. Providence, InDowncity.com

May 8: Treat mom to a special day of sweets,

M a y 1 3 -1 5 : A Food Truck Rodeo featuring 400 feet of mobile munchies is just part of the fun at Misquamicut Spring Fest, featuring carnival rides and games, a classic car show, and more. Westerly, MisquamicutFestival.org

pastries, sandwiches, and, of course, tea in Mapleville Farms’ beautiful perennial garden for their Mother’s Day Garden Tea and Luncheon. Burrillville, BensBakery.com

May 8: Indulge in a magical Mother’s Day Pique Nique featuring handcrafted elixirs from Little Bitte Cocktails and Botanic Providence, and bites from Easy Entertaining and Sin Bakery, supporting Women and Infants Hospital. Providence, Kaitlyn-Alyece-Events.com

May 14-15: Enjoy food truck fare, craft beer, and lawn games like giant Jenga, cornhole, and more at Fort Adams State Park for the third annual Newport Food Truck and Craft Beer Festival. Newport, FoodTruckFestivalsOfAmerica.com

May 14: Shaidzon Beer Co. hosts Shakedown Street, a Grateful Dead-themed evening of sipping tasty brews on tap while perusing

ide statew For a f events o listing online! s visit u m ody.co h HeyR

handmade wares, presented by Field of Artisans. West Kingston, FieldOfArtisans.com

May 20: Attention cheese heads and cider lovers! Head to Westerly for a Cheese and Cider Pairing event at the Tapped Apple Cider y and Winer y featuring hardcrafted, artisanal cheese from Mystic Cheese Company. Westerly, Tapped Apple.com

May 21-22: Sample some of New England’s signature seafood dishes at Newport Oyster and Chowder Festival. Over 40 Rhody oyster farms shuck beside local restaurants ser ving seafood and craft cocktails on Newport’s waterfront. Newport, BowensWharf.com Please note that events may require proof of vaccination or a negative COVID-19 test and mask-wearing regardless of vaccination status.

Hey Rhody DINING MAY 2022 |

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Photography by Grace Lentini

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Hey Rhody Dining May 2022

Articles inside

Plant-based food hall opens new speakeasy with veggie-forward bevvies

Spirit infusion kits raise the bar for home mixology

CALENDAR: This

MAKER: The designer behind a line of tea towels celebrating the state’s harvest season

RHODY READS: Six cuisine themed titles with local ties

Mission-driven family bakery needs dough to put plans in action

EXPERIENCE: A

RHODY PETS: A Warwick bakery just for pups + the adoptable Pet of the Month

THE PUBLIC’S RADIO: Climate

From lobster rolls to grinders, 10 sammies worth driving for

RHODY RECIPE: Local