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Behind the Top Drops: Seppeltsfield 100 Year Old Para Vintage Tawny
Behind the Top Drops
Seppeltsfield 100 Year Old Para Vintage Tawny
Earlier this year, Seppeltsfield released the 1922 vintage of its 100 Year Old Para Vintage Tawny. It’s the 45th consecutive release of the remarkable drop, which matures in oak in Seppeltsfield’s Centennial Cellar in the Barossa Valley for 100 summers and winters before touching the lips of consumers — continuing a tradition set by Oscar Benno Seppelt way back in 1878 to lay down a barrel of his finest wine from each vintage. Seppeltsfield’s chief winemaker Fiona Donald revealed to Sonya Logan the history and production practices behind this century-in-the-making fortified, which is rated ‘Exceptional’ in Langton’s classification of Australian wine. The 1922 100 Year Old Para Vintage Tawny was released in 100ml bottles for $1500, which are hand filled to order, and can also be tasted at the Seppeltsfield cellar door for $90.
The inaugural barrel that matured the first 100 Year Old Para Vintage Tawny before its release in 1978.
Tell us about Oscar Benno Seppelt and his role in the production of the very first 100 Year Old Para Vintage Tawny? Seppeltsfield’s history is punctuated with many moments of visionary foresight. Seppeltsfield’s founder Joseph Seppelt and his eldest son Benno were particularly renowned for their longer term vision for the estate, closely following custodianship principles to ensure a legacy was passed onto future generations. This is no more evident than Benno Seppelt’s inception of the Centennial Cellar — a truly unique and unparalleled system of maturing single barrels of vintage Tawny for 100 years before release. In 1866, plans to build a new bluestone cellar were started by Joseph. Twelve years later in 1878, following the passing of his father, Benno completed the stone cellars. In a gesture both unique and inspirational, Benno selected a puncheon of his finest wine and gave instructions that it was not to be bottled for 100 years. This single barrel of 1878 Tawny port was to remain maturing in a separate room within the bluestone cellars, untouched, in the same location for 100 years. The tradition of laying down a barrel of the finest wine from each vintage was continued every year following and continues to do so today. The Centennial Cellar now comprises an unbroken lineage of every vintage from the current year back to 1878. A living museum of Australian winemaking history and undoubtedly the ‘jewel in the crown’ of the Seppeltsfield estate, the Centennial Cellar is an absolute must see.
I am truly honoured to be part of the team who are the current custodians of the Centennial Cellar.
What do we know about the varieties and vine sources that went into the inaugural release in 1978? We cannot confirm for sure, but records from the era about varieties and purchase prices for growers would indicate Mataro, Grenache and Shiraz were used from the estate and local growers.
Have the varieties changed much over the years? There has been a shift away from Mataro to a Shiraz/Grenache blend.
Has it been released every year since the inaugural release?
Seppeltsfield chief winemaker Fiona Donald
Yes, even through the various owners. It is a remarkable legacy.
Describe the varieties and vine sources that have gone into the more recent vintages: All grapes that go into the 100 Year Old Para Vintage blend are estate owned. Shiraz and Grenache are used but the source vineyard can change from vintage to vintage. At the time of
vineyard assessment, grapes for the 100 Year Old and Tawny production in general are selected for medium sized berries, good fruit condition i.e. no shrivel, vibrant colour and strong fruit flavour over overt tannin.
Describe the current winemaking process: Fruit is harvested at optimum flavour and condition and at 14.5-15 Baume. Fruit is crushed to a stainless steel, closed, top fermenter where it remains for approximately 72 hours. After adjustments and seeding, the ferment is pumped over every 12 hours. At the desired Baume the free run juice is run to a tank and fortified with brandy spirit. After clarification the blend is finalised and put to wood — puncheons. The wine is matured in uninsulated cellars where the heights of summer and the depths of winter are experienced! The wine is topped within itself until one puncheon remains — after that, a program of downsizing occurs — hogshead, barrique, quarter, octave.
Has much of that process changed over the years, to the best of your knowledge? It is my understanding that the process has changed very little over the decades.
What can you tell us about the evolution of the wine’s packaging over its 45-year history?
We have stayed true to the original, with minor updates to evolve the overall look and feel.
Where is the 100 Year Old Para Vintage Tawny sold?
Exclusive to our cellar door, located in the heart of the Barossa, with a very small selection available at high-end restaurants.
Most cherished accolades?
James Halliday 100 Points, the perfect wine, for fourteen consecutive vintages.
What’s your favourite food pairing?
This is difficult as the 100 Year Old is such an intense, sensory experience! Sometimes 80% dark chocolate with a nut and brown spice influence works, sometimes a washed rind cheese works.
Is it true that Seppeltsfield is the only winery in the world to regularly release a wine with a century of age?
Yes, we are so fortunate.
