4 minute read
Young Gun Peta Kotz
Honing in on kinks and quirks
With natural wine becoming a more prominent part of the industry, it takes new minds for a style in the zeitgeist to become a classic rather than go down in history as just a fad. Hunter Valley winemaker Peta Kotz is at the forefront of natural winemaking and shared her story with Harrison Davies.
There are many who will argue that natural wine is the future for the Australian wine industry, pointing to its low-footprint sustainability as a reason why more producers should consider taking up at least some of the practices. This trend follows from the cellar to the cellar door, with a growing, young demographic that are keen to put down some of their hard-earned cash to get a bottle or three. This places producers using lowintervention practices at the forefront of innovation when it comes to Australian winemaking and one of the most buzzed about names in the field right now is the Hunter Valley’s Peta Kotz. Kotz’s label, Sabi Wabi, has only existed for several years yet has already earned accolades for its bold, textural wines that emphasise the terroir of the sites her grapes come from. The name, Sabi Wabi, references the Japanese philosophy of Wabi-Sabi; a worldview that accepts the imperfection and transience of nature. This philosophy guides her winemaking and helps her accept and understand that she is making wines that reflect the place they came from and embracing all those qualities. Kotz found her passion for creating wines that reflect the conditions of the Hunter as a child when she grew up in the region. “I always enjoyed gardening as a kid and being outdoors, growing up in the Hunter Valley, with neighbouring properties planted to grapevines,” she said. “I was always intrigued by the process, so I guess that was where I first found my passion for all things grapes and wine.” Following a Viticulture Diploma in 2004, and then Bachelor of Wine Science at Charles Sturt University, Kotz was well on her way to becoming a fully-fledged winemaker. Now a leading low intervention winemaker, Kotz is one to watch as the industry changes with the winds.
From the earth to the bottle
Semillon sits at the centre of Kotz’s winemaking and has become the flagship upon which Sabi Wabi is known for. Semillon is also a major variety in the Hunter, thus making it an obvious choice for Kotz to explore and toy with. “The Hunter Valley has a rich history of wine, with Semillon putting it on the global map,” she said. “I aim to express Semillon in a new non-traditional light. I love natural/ lo-fi wines, and being surrounded by tradition, I want to experiment with Semillon and show it in a new light.
“Here in the Hunter, Semillon is traditionally fermented in stainless steel and bottled early, I want to make a more textural style of Semillon, fermenting in ceramic and neutral oak, along with skin contact and carbonic techniques. “I strive to make wines that are transportive and take you on a journey, with Hunter Valley Semillon as the focus.”
Kotz sources all her grapes from the Hunter and her winemaking is a direct reflection of that region. While many producers are busy exploring all that new and alternative varieties have to offer, Kotz is exploring the ways alternative and low intervention techniques can change her wines. Her winemaking emphasises the importance of minimal intervention and all wines are un-fined and unfiltered, with minimal sulfur.
The result is a range of wines that express different flavours from your average Semillon, Merlot or Shiraz rosé. “Sabi Wabi is drawing inspiration from the ancient Japanese philosophy of ‘Wabi-Sabi’ which is best described as to find beauty amongst imperfection,” she explained. “I like to make wines that are minimal intervention in style, unfined and unfiltered that reflect the season and site, wines that are textural and interesting. “I feel this connection in my wines, which are not fine tuned to ‘perfection’, no heavy manipulation, more of an honest winemaking approach, trying to capture the season and expression of the environment the best I can.”
Kotz sources her fruit from mostly organically certified vineyards around the Hunter.
Sites around mainly Pokolbin, Lovedale and Luskintyre provide the fruit that forms the foundation of Sabi Wabi wines.
Peta Kotz
Peta Kotz
A focus on what’s there
Since Sabi Wabi’s first release back in 2019, Kotz has welcomed many to the natural winemaking bandwagon. Kotz’s passion for expressing the flavours of the Hunter is exuded by her winemaking and has brought many who may not have been interested in the phenomenon to give it a second try. “Natural wine is a beautiful and special thing,” Kotz explained. “There are little kinks and quirks in these wines that are unique and interesting, that excites me. Wines with soul. “I think natural wine in the modern wine industry is a great thing, it is pushing winemakers, growers and consumers.” A wet vintage in the Hunter in 2022 has Kotz excited for the new wines that are in store. “Despite the wet conditions during the harvest period here in the Hunter Valley, the wines look great, whites in particular,” she said. “New wines for this vintage include a Petillant Naturel made from Chardonnay, along with a Syrah Nouveau. “The first release for Sabi Wabi was in 2019 and each year new wines are being added to the lineup, which is exciting. “[In the future I will be] producing small batch wines, I hope to continue spreading the love of lo-fi wine from the Hunter Valley.”
