Grapegrower & Winemaker, May 2022, Free Preview

MAY 2022

Digging deeper into rootstocks DEFINING THE DIFFERENCE

Comparing depth and cross-flow filtration

A PASSAGE TO INDIA

OPPORTUNITIES FOR WINE EXPORTERS 2022 ANNUAL THEME: SUSTAINABILITY | ISSUE THEME: WINEGRAPE VARIETIES

contents MAY 2022

ISSUE 700

MAY 2022

Digging deeper into rootstocks DEFINING THE DIFFERENCE

Comparing depth and cross-flow filtration

A PASSAGE TO INDIA

OPPORTUNITIES FOR WINE EXPORTERS 2022 ANNUAL THEME: SUSTAINABILITY | ISSUE THEME: WINEGRAPE VARIETIES

Cover: In this issue we focus on winegrape varieties and the cover features our Young Gun for May– Anita Goode. Anita is an enthusiastic backer of alternative varieties and sits on the judging panel of the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show.

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REGULARS 7

Winetitles Insights

8

In this issue

8 15

48

88 91

94 94

What’s online

NEWS

International briefs

9

Ask the AWRI

Producer Profile: Liz Marwood Marketplace classifieds Calendar

10 12

Looking Back

13

16

14 16

AGW awarded Agricultural Trade and Market Access Cooperation grant Global wine industry must reassess supply chain assumptions and strategies

Industry welcomes funding to improve winegrape price transparency

Charles Sturt University and NSW Wine enter into industry partnership Penfolds release rare Superblend Imperial Duo NFTs for Blockbar’s first NFT wine auction

MY VIEW Inca Lee – Biosecurity state of play: national effort needed

GRAPEGROWING 18

26 30 34 42

FEATURE Helping vines protect themselves: Growing on rootstocks

FEATURE Vines strike a pose for the new Viticanopy app Managing cover crops: optimising results Pinot vineyard with devil in detail Gamay Uncorked

34 WINEMAKING 51

56 62 64 66 70

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FEATURE Wastewater, micro-oxidation and mobile networks: How IoT is improving winery perfomance FEATURE Cross-flow impacts on wine filterability and performance monitoring New, world-first design for cold stabilisation

Hope for alternative to sulphur dioxide fades Young Gun: Anita Goode

Behind the Top Drops: Josef Cromy Pinot Gris May 2022 – Issue 700

Hans Mick Editor

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his issue of the Grapegrower & Winemaker takes us into the vineyard to delve into a number of important areas of interest. None may be quite so vital to the future of Australia’s winegrape growers as biosecurity. On this topic, we hear from Vinehealth Australia CEO Inca Lee who outlines the actions that are needed to protect the national grape and wine sector from potential pest and disease threats (page 16).

76 BUSINESS & TECHNOLOGY 76

FEATURE Tailoring solar power generation for wine production

SALES & MARKETING 80 84

The benefits of free trade between Australia and India for wine exporters FEATURE Unified shopping experiences

84

Journalist Harrison Davies recently attended a Coonawarra rootstock field day where trial results were revealed.

The trial’s aim was to evaluate how different rootstocks respond to similar soil conditions and how this affects vine growth and, ultimately, the wine produced. Find out more about what was learned from page 18. Meantime, writer Simone Madden-Grey investigates some of the research that’s uprooting conventional thinking when it comes to cover crop management (page 30).

Tasmanian contributor Mark Smith recently visited The Hazards Vineyard on the island state’s east coast to see how the site’s Pinot Noir production has flourished (page 34). This month we also feature the backstory of the Gamay variety for our regular Uncorked column (page 42).

Taking to the winery, Paul LeLacheur switches us on to how the Internet of Things is improving operational efficiencies (page 51). Paul Bowyer and Greg Edwards discuss some aspects of depth vs. cross-flow filtration (page

May 2022 – Issue 700

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54), and we explore innovation for cold stabilisation (page 62). Meanwhile, Sonya Logan outlines a recent study showing that glutathione may not be advantageous to winemakers (page 64).

Our Young Gun is colourful Mount Benson winemaker Anita Goode, who talks about the growth of her career and region (page 66). For Behind the Top Drops, we profile Josef Chromy Pinot Gris, a recent winner in the Tasmanian and Royal Adelaide wine shows (page 70).

We also hear about the prospects of tailoring solar energy systems to the unique patterns of grape and wine production (page 76), and with a new free trade agreement finalised between Australia and India, we mull the potential benefits for Aussie wine exporters (page 80). And for those targeting DtC sales, we are introduced to the concept of ‘unified commerce’ and how this may assist wine businesses (page 84).

There’s more inside too – enjoy the read!

E @winetitlesmedia D @winetitles Q @winetitlesmedia C linkedin.com/company/winetitles-pty-ltd

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Compiled from data supplied by Wine Australia, our regular Winetitles Insights reports feature industry sales and production insights to keep growers and winemakers informed on the latest trends.

Export value Export value

$0.0

ROLLING ANNUAL (YEAR ENDING) ROLLING ANNUAL (YEAR ENDING) ROLLING ANNUAL (YEAR ENDING)

SHARE OF DOMESTIC OFF-TRADE WINE SALES BY WINE STYLE SHARE OF DOMESTIC OFF-TRADE WINE SALES BY WINE STYLE Fortified, 4% Fortified, 4%

Champage, 1% Champage, 1%

Monthly export tracker Monthly export tracker

J ul Aug J ul Aug Mth 2019-20 Mth 2019-20

Sep Sep Mth 2020-21 Mth 2020-21

Oct Nov Oct Nov Cum 2019-20 Cum 2019-20

50 50 45 45 40 40 35 35 30 30 25 25 20 20 15 15 10 10 5 5 0 0

Dec Dec Cum 2020-21 Cum 2020-21

CHANGE IN VOLUME AND VALUE IN 2021 BY WINESTYLE CHANGE IN VOLUME AND VALUE IN 2021 BY WINESTYLE Value change Value change

10% 10%

Sparkling Sparkling other, 12%other, 12%

Still white, 46% Still white, 46%

10 10 9 9 8 8 7 7 6 6 5 5 4 4 3 3 2 2 1 1 0 0

CUMULATIVE CUMULATIVEEXPORTS EXPORTS(MILLION (MILLION CASES) CASES)

Export volume Export volume

DECEMBER 2021 MONTHLY MONTHLY EXPORTS EXPORTS(MILLION (MILLION CASES) CASES)

0

$4.0 $4.0 $3.6 $3.6 $3.2 $3.2 $2.8 $2.8 $2.4 $2.4 $2.0 $2.0 $1.6 $1.6 $1.2 $1.2 $0.8 $0.8 $0.4 $0.4 $0.0

$A$A (BILLIONS) (BILLIONS)

Annual export tracker Annual export tracker

1,000 1,000 900 900 800 800 700 700 600 600 500 500 400 400 300 300 200 200 100 100 0

J an-2018 J an-2018 MaMa r-20 r-20 1818 MaMa y-2018 y-2018 J ul-2018 J ul-2018 Sep-2018 Sep-2018 Nov-2018 Nov-2018 J an-2019 J an-2019 MaMa r-20 r-20 1919 MaMa y-2019 y-2019 J ul-2019 J ul-2019 Sep-2019 Sep-2019 Nov-2019 Nov-2019 J an-2020 J an-2020 MaMa r-20 r-20 2020 MaMa y-2020 y-2020 J ul-2020 J ul-2020 Sep-2020 Sep-2020 Nov-2020 Nov-2020 J an-2021 J an-2021 MaMa r-20 r-20 2121 MaMa y-2021 y-2021 J ul-2021 J ul-2021 Sep-2021 Sep-2021 Nov-2021 Nov-2021

LITRES (MILLIONS) LITRES (MILLIONS)

AUSTRALIAN WINE EXPORTS - year ended December 2021 AUSTRALIAN WINE EXPORTS ended December 2021ENDED AUSTRALIAN WINE- year EXPORTS - YEAR

Volume change Volume change

5% 5% 0% 0%

Still red, 33% Still red, 33%

-5% -5% -10% -10% -15% -15%

Still rosé, 4% Still rosé, 4%

OFF-TRADE SALES BY PRICE SEGMENT AND ORIGIN OFF-TRADE SALES BY PRICE SEGMENT AND ORIGIN

Champage Champage

Sparkli ng Sparkli otherng other

Still r ed Still r ed

Still r osé Still r osé

Still white Still white

Total Total

OFF-TRADE IMPORTED WINE SHARE BY COUNTRY AND AVERAGE VALUE OFF-TRADE IMPORTED WINE SHARE BY COUNTRY AND AVERAGE VALUE

>$ >$ 10 10 0 0

Imported Imported

$6 $6 .0 .0 0- 0$9 $9 .9 .9 9 9 $1 $1 0. 0.

00 00 -$ -$ 14 14 .99 .99 $1 $1 5. 5.

00 00 -$ -$ 19 19 .99 .99 $2 $2 0. 0.

00 00 -$ -$ 29 29 .99 .99 $3 $3 0. 0.

00 00 -$ -$ 49 49 .99 .99 $5 $5 0. 0.

00 00 -$ -$ 99 99 .99 .99

Domesti c Domesti c

<$ <$ 6 6

45% 45% 40% 40% 35% 35% 30% 30% 25% 25% 20% 20% 15% 15% 10% 10% 5% 5% 0% 0%

Fortified Fortified

80% 80% 70% 70% 60% 60% 50% 50% 40% 40% 30% 30% 20% 20% 10% 10% 0% 0%

Vol share Vol share

Value share Value share

$13.86 $13.86

$41.68 $41.68

New New Zealand Zealand

France France

$14.22 $14.22 Italy Italy

$17.51 $17.51 Usa Usa

$15.24 $15.24 Spain Spain

$14.62 $14.62 Germany Germany

$10.92 $10.92 Por tugal Por tugal

$17.19 $17.19 Argentina Argentina

COMMENTARY COMMENTARY COMMENTARY

The value of Australian wine exports decreased by 10% to $2.03 billion and volume decreased by 17% to 619 million litres in the year ended December 2021.

The valuevalue of Australian wine exports decreased by 10% to $2.03 billion and expense volume decreased by 17% to 619 million litresOver in thehalf year(57%) ended December 2021.

The of Australian wine exports 2020 at the of the on-premise. of imported wine was sold at The biggest driver of the decline in Australian wine exports in the 12 months to the end of December 2021 was the reduction in exports to mainland China. Exports to mainland decreased by 10% to $2.03 billion and volume $15 and above in 2021, compared with 23 per The biggest driver of the decline in Australian wine exports in the 12 months to the end of December 2021 was the reduction in exports to mainland China.

Exports to mainland Still winein accounted 83 litres. per cent of sales China declined by 97 per cent in value to $29 million and by 93 per cent volume to 6.4for million China declinedby by 17% 97 perto cent value to $29 million and by 93 per cent in volume to 6.4 million litres. decreased 619in million litres in the cent of domestic wine. by volume in the retail off-trade channel Overall, the retailDecember off-trade declined 7 per cent in volume in 2021, after a big increase in 2020 at the expense of the on-premise. year ended 2021. by in 2021, white wine having the Overall, retail off-trade by sales 7 per by cent in volume 2021, afterwith a big increase in 2020 atwhite the expense of the on-premise.

Still winethe accounted for 83 declined per cent of volume in theinretail off-trade channel in 2021, with winelargest having the largest share (46%).

Imports are dominated by just two countries: Still wine accounted for 83 of sales by volume growth, in the retail channel in still 2021, with white wine the largest (46%).

Sparkling wine and Champagne showed theAustralian strongest whileoff-trade rosé was the only wine category thathaving continued to growshare in 2021.

The biggest driver of per thecent decline in share (46%).

Sparkling wine and Champagne showed the strongest growth, while rosé was the only still wine category that continued toNew growZealand in 2021. and France together holding an wine exports in the 12 months to the end of wine inand Champagne showed thecent,84 Imported wine accounted for 14 per cent of the off-trade retail Sparkling market by volume 2021.

Its value share was 25 per reflecting the higher value and of imported per cent shareaverage by volume 87 perwine. cent Imported accounted 14 reduction per cent of at the off-trade retailinmarket volume in 2021.

Its value was 25 per cent, reflecting the higher average value of imported wine.

December 2021 wasforthe in$15 exports Over half wine (57%) of imported wine was sold and above 2021, by compared with 23 per cent ofshare domestic wine. strongest growth, while rosé was the only Over half (57%) of imported wine was sold at $15 and above in 2021, compared with 23 per cent of domestic wine. by value.

France has a significantly to mainland China. Exports to mainland still wine category to bygrow Imports are dominated by just two countries: New Zealand and France together holdingthat an 84continued per cent share volume and 87 per cent by value. France has a significantly higher share value volume.

In Imports are dominated by97 just twocent countries: New Zealand together holdingsold an 84 per retail cent share by volume and 87 per centcompared byby value.

France has by afor significantly China declined in2021, value to $29 and inFrance 2021. higher share by valueby than byper volume.

In the average value of wine from France in the off-trade was $41.68 per 750ml, with than $13.86 New Zealand higher share by value than by volume.

In 2021, the average value of wine from France sold in the retail off-trade was $41.68 per 750ml, compared with $13.86 for New Zealand and $14.22 for Italy.

2021, the average value of wine from France million and by 93 per cent in volume to 6.4 Imported wine accounted for 14 per cent of and $14.22 for Italy.

million litres.

Overall, the retail off-trade declined by 7 per Source: Wine Australia and IRI MarketEdge centWine in volume 2021, after a big increase in Source: Australiain and IRI MarketEdge

the off-trade retail market by volume in 2021.

Its value share was 25 per cent, reflecting the higher average value of imported wine.

sold in the retail off-trade was $41.68 per 750ml, compared with $13.86 for New Zealand and $14.22 for Italy.

Wine Australia providing insights on Australian Wine May 2022 – Issue 700

www.winetitles.com.au

Grapegrower & Winemaker

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grapegrowing

Rootstocks

Helping vines protect themselves

Growing on rootstock

Rootstocks are becoming more and more widely adopted by Australian and New Zealand growers as ways to better protect their vines from pests and help them respond better to their environments. Journalist Harrison Davies attended a rootstock field day in Coonawarra to understand more about how growers are using rootstocks to help improve their long-term vineyard sustainability.

RE

Up t VIN

David Hansen. Photo: Coonawarra Vignerons

Rootstock growing was developed in France in the late 19th century as a way to protect vines from phylloxera, which had recently been introduced to Europe by way of the New World.

The pest had not been found in Europe before and the vines were particularly susceptible – meaning many producers would watch their livelihoods fade away before their eyes.

The idea to graft North American roots to the base of European vines was toyed with as a way to keep Old World vines 18

Grapegrower & Winemaker

These conversations are all about ‘how do I match my soil total available water, my climate, my rootstock, and my scion variety, to my desired yield and quality specification?’ I’m aiming for this, the Holy Grail.

David Hansen www.winetitles.com.au

safer from phylloxera and growers quickly found it to be effective.

Over a dozen clones of rootstock have been developed in the last century, all of which respond to different conditions and provide protection from a variety of disorders.

I attended a rootstock field day, hosted

by Vinehealth Australia, where they demonstrated some of the rootstock research that had been conducted at Wynn’s in Coonawarra.

May 2022 – Issue 700

Anita Goode

A new spin on tradition Anita Goode is part of a small club of wine producers in South Australia’s Mount Benson region. The cool climate provides the perfect space for her production of lighter, alternative varieties and she has heralded the potential of such varieties at her winery, Wangolina. Harrison Davies recently visited to ask Anita about her career and what she sees for the region moving forward.

A

nita Goode works the land that has been cared for by her family for five generations. While that might scream traditionalist, she is anything but.

The Goode family have a pastoral history in Mount Benson and the land that is now occupied by her winery and vineyard, Wangolina, was originally used for grazing.

While longhorn cattle still reside on the land they are flanked by vines, first planted in 1999, which are grown to showcase the variety and the location.

20 years on from establishing the

winery, Goode has established herself as a trailblazer amongst producers of alternative varieties – in particular championing Grüner Veltliner.

Managing a small team, Goode has put in work to place the wider wine region on the map, and she sings its praises.

“I grew up here. I’m a fifth generation local and fourth generation on the farm here at Wangolina,” she said.

“I love it here and I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else.”

Goode said she had never considered being a farmer but that she also couldn’t see herself sitting behind a desk.

A stint at a winery for her school work experience helped illuminate her path.

“I did work experience when I was 15 over in Coonawarra. I did two-and-ahalf days at Wynns and two-and-a-half days at Rouge Homme, which were all part of the Southcott portfolio, and I just had so much fun,” she said “That was always it for me and I love it.”

An alternative region with alternative styles Goode’s operation has a strong focus on alternative varieties and has helped to cultivate a culture of alternative varieties within the Mount Benson region.

Wangolina Vineyards. Photo: Wangolina

May 2022 – Issue 700

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Grapegrower & Winemaker

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producer profile

LIZ MARWOOD Winemaker, Lindeman’s Trio

How did you get your start in wine?

After leaving school, I started studying politics, law and international relations at university but quickly realised that the library and a career in politics wasn’t for me – the winemaking students in the tavern looked to be having much more fun! I come from an agricultural background and realised that I wanted to be someone who made something tangible for other people to enjoy.

What is your favourite part of working in the industry?

I think having the opportunity to work around people who are passionate about what they do is infectious. For most winemakers, it’s not ‘just a job’. That commitment and attitude is reflected 88

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in the wines we make and being able to share those wines is a privilege.

What have been some of the highlights of your career in wine?

Definitely the opportunity to travel both nationally and internationally. In 2018, I travelled to France with my family for six weeks. We took up residency in a small village called Peyriac-de-Mer and I made a Carignan, Cinsault and Grenache blend under my own label from the Corbieres Maritimes.

What are some aspects of Australian wine that help to separate it from Old World wines?

Australian wines are largely made with more freedoms and less constraints of regulatory bodies. Because of this, we www.winetitles.com.au

can respond to vintage conditions with more creativity and flexibility. I think we are also less beholden to maintaining a certain style and more accepting of style evolution within a label than Old World winemakers.

How have you been able to explore winemaking across multiple wineries?

I’ve worked in small and large wineries across Australia and the world, from small 20t caves in France to 100,000t wineries in Australia. Having a breadth of experience from small to large wineries, luxury to commercial portfolios is invaluable. Working in a commercial environment hones your organisational skills and provides opportunity to use your technical skill set in often May 2022 – Issue 700