High school program trains new generation of problem-solvers
WHAT’S THE DEAL WITH VINE DISEASE
Unpacking the threat of bacterial inflorescence rot in a changing climate
Understanding
ULTRASONICS
WINEMAKERS EMPLOY HIGH FREQUENCY SOUNDWAVES FOR WINE MACERATION
Cover: Our March issue of Grapegrower & Winemaker explores the use of ultrasonics in winemaking, how students are being trained to fill skill shortages in the industry, and the most effective strategies to manage soil health using regenerative viticulture practices. On the cover this month is Evelyne Geber, John Geber and Michelle Geber of Château Tanunda in the Barossa.
REGULARS
6 What’s online
6 In this issue
16 International briefs
17 My View
42 Ask the AWRI
74 Producer Profile: Michael Kane
76 Looking Back
76 Calendar
77 Marketplace classifieds NEWS
7 France to showcase Victorian wines
8 Barossa’s Chateau Tanunda welcomes 135th anniversary vintage with annual bell ringing ceremony
9 New National Wine Festival set to become premier tourism event
10 Search is on for future leaders of the wine industry
11 Dr Richard Smart honoured as Fellow by NZ Winegrowers
12 Blind tasting selects the “apex” of Hawke’s Bay’s Chardonnay
13 James Halliday recognised for “substantial” contributions to the wine industry
14 Penfolds blends iconic South Australian Shiraz with French Syrah in “unexpected” new release
18 FEATURE Crop watch: price expectations for inland regions
GRAPEGROWING
20 FEATURE Unpacking regenerative viticulture
26 Should we be more concerned about bacterial inflorescence rot and other bacterial vine diseases in the face of climate change?
36 Study shows consumer openness to smoke-tainted wines
40 Innovative smoke sensor helping winegrowers during bushfires
WINEMAKING
46 Making waves: Saving time, space and energy with ultrasonics
48 FEATURE Talking techniques: Finding solutions with filtration equipment and processes
50 BEHIND THE TOP DROPS Helm Wines Premium Riesling
53 FEATURE Students the secret to filling skills shortages
59 FEATURE Winery of the future: Artificial intelligence (and ESG)
BUSINESS & TECHNOLOGY
64 FEATURE Proposed solutions for premium wine bottle emissions
66 FEATURE Brown Brothers bottle a sustainable future
SALES & MARKETING
69 FEATURE Sealing the deal: The cutting edge of cork
71 Honouring Peter Teakle’s final project: a rebrand
72 Fifty years of wine service that was “instrumental” in the growth of Hunter Valley
Search is on for the future leaders of the wine industry
The search is on for the next generation of change-makers in the Australian grape and wine sector, with applications now open for the Future Leaders 2025 leadership development program.
Future Leaders is offered every two years and is designed for high-performing midcareer professionals with the ambition and capability to drive progress at a personal, business and sector level. Open to applicants in roles across the wine sector’s value-chain, it identifies and empowers individuals who are invested in the future of the sector, equipping them with the skills, networks and insights to lead with impact.
Delivered by leadership program provider Pragmatic Thinking, Future Leaders aims to blend personal and professional growth with an immersive learning experience featuring engaged facilitators and speakers, along with coaching from industry experts and program alumni.
Since its inception in 2006, more than 150 Future Leaders alumni have gone on to influence and shape the sector, from vineyard management and winemaking to marketing, trade and research.
Graduates emerge with a deeper understanding of industry dynamics and the knowledge and skills needed to foster
resilient and sustainable businesses. It calls on participants to address some of the sector’s greatest challenges through collaborative and innovative solutions.
Caitlin Davies was sales and marketing coordinator at Jericho Wines when she completed the Future Leaders program in 2023. She most recently took on the role of Commercialisation and Translation Project Manager at the Australian Wine Research Institute.
“Future Leaders has skyrocketed my professional development,” Davies said.
“More importantly, within my cohort we have created a supportive community of lifelong friendships, and an exceedingly valuable professional network.
“Though our industry is facing challenges, as effective leaders our cohort is now well placed to turn them into opportunities. The Future Leaders program will give you all the tools you need to help create the wine sector that you want to work in,” she said.
“Future Leaders is one of the best courses I’ve ever participated in,” said 2023 alumni Andrew Shedden, of Endeavour Drinks. “The bonds that are created during an experience like this are enduring and will not only benefit the participants but hopefully be felt in our
wider networks and across the industry in the years to come.”
Wine Australia senior R&D program manager and Future Leaders coordinator Jo Hargreaves said the program was instrumental in fostering resilience and adaptability across the wine sector.
“Now, more than ever, competent leaders are needed who can drive change and create opportunity. Future Leaders continues to evolve and to empower participants with the mindset, confidence and capabilities to navigate the challenges ahead. Graduates are better positioned to implement progressive leadership practices that align with the sector’s long-term vision,” said Hargreaves.
“Because Future Leaders participants are drawn from across the value chain, a diversity of experience is brought to the learning environment, creating a valuable network that alumni draw on many years after completing the program.”
Future Leaders is coordinated and funded by Wine Australia, with the support of Australian Grape & Wine.
Applications for Future Leaders 2025 will close at midday on 24 March. Successful applicants will be announced during the week beginning 12 May 2025.
To find out more or to apply visit www. winefutureleaders.com
Andrew Shedden, graduate of the 2023 Future Leaders program (Caitlin20Davies) Caitlin Davies, 2023 alumni of the Future Leaders program
Soil Management Regenerative Viticulture
Unpacking regenerative viticulture
When it comes to soil management, the most effective strategies are often learned only through trial and error. Through their pioneering efforts, Inkwell Wines owners Dudley Brown and Irina Santiago-Brown have experienced first-hand what works well, and what doesn’t, while implementing a regenerative viticulture approach in their McLaren Vale vineyard.
The word “regenerative” is starting to get bandied about quite a lot in wine these days, often in the way “sustainable” became a thing in the 2010s. But what is it exactly? And what isn’t it?
Having been on the regenerative path since 2019, and the only Regenerative Organic Certified vineyard and winery in Australia since 2023, we are asked these questions frequently. Our simplest answer is that the first part of
regenerative agriculture is focused on actively building soil by encouraging soil life. The other part is about getting out of the way of soil life building by not impeding it with detrimental practices.
Making waves
Saving time, space and energy with ultrasonics
Winemaker and writer Paul Le Lacheur examines the benefits of sonication as an effective maceration tool.
Ultrasonics, or sonification, refers to the application of high frequency soundwaves to macerating or fermenting wines and/or musts.
“Oh,” I hear you mutter under your breath, “our humble scribe has lost it again! First he talked about playing orchestral and classical music to vines, now he’s dog whistling about soundwaves improving wine quality”. Although a relatively new idea however, it’s certainly not in the realm of fantasy.
Recently (around 2019), Ultrawine Perseo has developed the latest and most innovative eco - friendly system yet devised. Designers of this technology, Agrovin, are revolutionising the oenology sector by applying high power/ low frequency ultrasound to grapes and macerating musts. It’s a notable extraction technique, without increasing temperatures or pressure. Results have proven the technique is efficient in the extraction of phenolic and aromatic compounds. This helps in alleviating the effects of climate change during the late grape ripening phase, but it also has a big
impact on fermenting wines, must and where maceration times are critical.
Ultrasonics optimises winemaking processes by reducing maceration times by up to 50% and achieves energy savings of up to 15% (Agrovin research 2020). Development of the system was made possible because of the collaboration between agro- chemistry and food technology reseacrhers at the University of the UMA (Uni of Marcia 2012 –2019) and Agrovin. In addition, it has the approval of the OIV to use ultrasound technology as an oenological practice. Ther system has obtained
Brown Brothers bottle a sustainable future
It has been a hive of activity at one of Australia’s leading wine producers, with Brown Brothers officially opening its newest bottling facility. With capabilities of producing 40,000 bottles a day, staff celebrated the facility, aptly named ‘The HIVE’.
Leaders at the renowned company spoke about the great challenges in building the bottling facility during COVID without the onsite assistance of international engineers.
But five years down the track the facility is fully operational, employing 40 full-time staff across three shifts, five days a week.
HIVE stands for harvesting, innovation, value and efficiency and Brown Family Wine Group CEO Cameron MacFarlane explained other symbolism weaved into its name.
Among the surrounds of luscious vineyards, MacFarlane made note of the bees often seen flying around with a job to do with pollination.
[The facility] incorporates renewable energy generation stored on the roof, state of the art insulation to minimise the amount of heating and cooling required and also cutting-edge technology to minimise waste and associated emissions.
Brett McClen
He said this really talks to the energy of the place, community, family and business working together to produce something amazing.
The HIVE came into place during COVID and MacFarlane talked about the challenges at this time and the team’s motivation, resilience and resourcefulness to make the project a reality.
“There was a football team of Italian engineers who were on their way and the plane was cancelled and they weren’t able to come,” he said.
“Using Teams, manuals and probably YouTube, they worked it out and now the product is an incredible manufacturing and bottling facility.”
Winery Technology
The HIVE at Brown Brother’s Milawa site was officially opened last month with art painted by four young women a brilliant feature of the building’s exterior. Pictured are Indi MP Helen Haines, winemaker Katherine Brown and CEO Cameron MacFarlane.
Cork & Cork Composites
Sealing the deal
The cutting edge of cork
The wine industry globally is experiencing a resurgence in the use of cork, and cork composite, closures. This has largely been driven by technological advancements in the quality of these closures, as well as evolving market trends.
Recent innovations in cork and cork composite closures have focused on enhancing both the quality and sustainability of these products. One notable development has been the elimination of cork taint, a common issue caused by trichloroanisole (TCA). Companies like Amorim and Cork Supply have been at the cutting edge of implementing advanced production techniques, such as temperature and pressure treatments, to remove TCA and other contaminants from natural corks. This ensures that wines sealed with these more advanced and reliable cork closures maintain their intended flavour profiles and quality. This is particularly important for wines intended for aging, as a consistent and effective seal is crucial for maintaining the wine’s integrity over time.
Concerns about cork taint, primarily caused by TCA, drove the initial shift towards screwcaps. However, technologies like Amorim’s NDtech process, which screens corks for TCA, and improved manufacturing standards, have made high-quality, taint-free corks more accessible. These innovations mitigate the risk of spoilage, making cork a viable option once again for winemakers wanting to explore more niche ways to present their wines while not compromising the integrity of the product.
Another advantage of cork closures is their contribution to the continuing aesthetic appeal, and sense of perceived value in various markets and market segments, of wine bottles sealed in the traditional way by using cork. Additionally, the use of sustainable materials in cork and cork composite closures can help to improve a winery’s brand image and appeal to ecoconscious consumers.
Technical considerations in winemaking
In wine production, the choice of closure is a critical decision that impacts the
