NOVEMBER 2023
MUDDY WATERS
Clearing up the Murray-Darling Basin Plan
HIGHS AND FLOWS IMPROVING PUMP EFFICIENCY
DIRECT TO IMPORTER OPENING DOORS TO NEW MARKETS
2023 ANNUAL THEME: INNOVATION | ISSUE THEME: DIRECT TO CONSUMER
contents November 2023
ISSUE 718
79 THE AUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALAND GRAPEGROWER & WINEMAKER
NOVEMBER 2023
MUDDY WATERS
Clearing up the Murray-Darling Basin Plan
NOVEMBER
HIGHS AND FLOWS IMPROVING PUMP EFFICIENCY
DIRECT TO IMPORTER 2023
OPENING DOORS TO NEW MARKETS
2023 ANNUAL THEME: INNOVATION | ISSUE THEME: DIRECT TO CONSUMER
Cover: The November issue of Grapegrower & Winemaker takes a wine sales including looking at new ways to tap international markets
REGULARS
7 Winetitles insights 8 What’s online
NEWS
8 In this issue
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16 International briefs 48 Ask the AWRI
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84 Looking Back
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85 Marketplace classifieds
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83 Producer Profile: Chris Carpenter 84 Calendar
14 15 17
Tasmania wins its fourth consecutive Pinot Noir Challenge New grapevine management guide addresses oversupply issues
Australian and NZ wineries continue to grow DtC sales Randall Wine Group buys Gemtree Wines New dashboard means more price transparency for grapegrowers
Republic of Moldova to host the 46th OIV Congress in 2025 Grapegrower & Winemaker 60 years anniversary: Noughties, but nice
GRAPEGROWING 19
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32 41
46
The rush to renewable nitrogen is on Management of vineyards after fire damage: Part 3 – economic observations and modelling
Voyager Estate releases sustainability report New study finds warm summers and wet winters yield better wine vintages
Grapegrower & Winemaker
WINEMAKING 50 52 54 60
19 4
41
Smarter grapevine nutrition in a time of spiralling costs
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Improving the flow of efficiency: Considerations for the best pump options for winery operations
Injecting new life into winery pumps with automated systems When winery design goes in circles
Behind the Top Drops: Evans & Tate Redbrook Estate Shiraz
November 2023 – Issue 718
Hans Mick Editor
W
elcome to November and a new issue of Grapegrower & Winemaker!
50 BUSINESS & TECHNOLOGY 64 69
Muddy waters – the Murray-Darling Basin Plan Mastering the art of feedback
SALES & MARKETING 74
Direct to importer: Harnessing the strength of DtC in export markets
79 Far out! Marketing beyond the label
In the following pages we hear from viticultural adviser Daniel Fischl who takes us through the cost-benefit of vine nutrition to optimise berry chemistry. At a time when every dollar counts, he highlights the potential economic benefits for of value-driven fertilisation in the vineyard (page 19). Journalist Meg Riley investigates the potential use of available nitrogen as a source of vine nutrition (page 28), while Colin Hinze and Richard Hamilton present the third part of their informative series of articles detailing bushfire recovery project in the Adelaide Hills (page 32). We share details about the sustainability efforts of Margaret River’s Voyager Estate, whose organic practices are leading the industry (page 41). For winemakers we present a snapshot of winery pump options and provide tips on how best to approach their selection and use (page 50). Having addressed this year’s WineEng conference in the Barossa, project development manager Roman Tournier speaks to Sonya Logan about the intricacies of a very unique design adopted for a circular winery in south-eastern France (page 54). We also hear from winemaker Matt Byrne about the award-winning Evans & Tate Redbrook Estate Shiraz for Behind the Top Drops (page 60).
As debate continues over the structure of water buybacks, we explore the implications and complexities of the Murray Darling Basin Plan and its implications for inland growers who rely on this crucial river system as their source of water (page 64). Meantime, HR consultant Ilga Horvat provides strategies for wine business operators on ‘mastering the art of feedback’ to employees (page 69). We also find out how one successful initiative is helping to connect smaller wine producers with international buyers (page 74). Finally, Grapegrower & Winemaker has in recent months been taking a look back at decades past as part of our celebrations to mark the 60th anniversary of this publication. Well, it seems we aren’t the only ones in a retro mood. Jim Barry Wines in the Clare Valley has marked its ‘70s origins by re-embracing flares and a funky disco attitude. Share the groove from page 79. Keep stayin’ alive – and enjoy the rest of this packed issue!
E @winetitlesmedia @winetitles Q @winetitlesmedia C linkedin.com/company/winetitles-pty-ltd
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C Find us @winetitles
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grapegrowing
Sheep grazing in a Voyager Estate vineyard. Photos: Voyager Estate.
Sustainability
Voyager Estate releases sustainability report
Voyager Estate in WA’s Margaret River has been among the pioneers of organic production in Australia. The company has released its Inaugural 2023 Sustainability Report, summarising its journey so far and celebrating its key milestones on the way. The new report outlines the challenges and opportunities in the producer’s path towards a carbon-neutral future.
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oyager Estate’s inaugural sustainability report provides a snapshot of the company’s current environmental and community impact, its pathway to becoming fully certified organic, and its emerging efforts in understanding its greenhouse emissions, as well as tackling the major collective challenge – climate change. November – Issue 718
“Much like the old saying ‘the map is not the territory’, the report is not the work!” said Michelle McManus, head of sustainability at Voyager Estate.
and beyond, working to make our land, operations, and communities more resilient, and to play our part in creating a positive future.”
“However, it’s critical to document the progress in our wayfinding. We’re very proud to stand alongside many other businesses in the Margaret River region
As of 2023, all Voyager Estate vineyards are certified with Australian Certified Organic (ACO) – meaning healthy soils and no synthetic inputs. This is a
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Grapegrower & Winemaker
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ask the
Does having thick skin pay off when it comes to measuring sugar in grapes?
Winemakers recently asked the AWRI helpdesk why some grape varieties produce wines with greater than expected alcohol concentrations, even when based on initial glucose plus fructose (G+F) concentrations measured in pressed grape juice. Is it because varieties with small berries and/or thick skins have additional sugar extracted from their skins during skin maceration, or during skin contact in red wine fermentations? In this article, AWRI Senior Oenologist Geoff Cowey investigates whether initial sugar concentration measured in pressed juice from thick versus thin-skinned varieties differs from the sugar concentration measured in an equivalent homogenate sample. Why measure sugar as G+F concentration in grape juice rather than Baume or Brix?
Does pressed grape juice adequately represent sugar concentration?
In thick-skinned grapes or shrivelled ripe fruit harvested in warm years, or grapes with a greater proportion of solid to liquid components, the solids would contain a greater proportion of grape sugars. The lower proportion of liquid can also make it difficult to obtain a representative sample of pressed juice to measure sugar concentration accurately. When determining the G+F concentration in juice samples with high sugar concentrations, dilution is required for HPLC or enzymatic methods to lower the concentration to within the analysis calibration range. This can also increase the uncertainty of measurement to around 5%.
Baume or Brix density measurements are commonly used as quick ways to estimate sugar content in grape samples or must. It has become a ‘rule of thumb’ to expect that 1 Baume = 1.8 Brix = 18 g/L sugar = 1% potential alcohol. Several articles have addressed the challenges of using density measurements to estimate fermentable sugar concentration in juice and then calculating expected alcohol levels in wine (Cowey 2016, Wilkes 2016). Fermentable sugars can be accurately quantified using enzymatic assays or high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) to better estimate potential alcohol, yet despite this, variations are still observed. How do I calculate potential wine alcohol from initial sugar measurement in juice?
Potential alcohol can be estimated using the official European conversion ratio of 16.83 g fermentable sugar per litre for 1% v/v alcohol, though the ratio can vary from 16.5-17.2 g/L sugar for 1% alcohol based on the commercial yeast strain used when evaluated in the laboratory (Varela et al. 2008). Why are there variations in final alcohol levels in wine compared to potential alcohol calculations?
Fermentations are rarely closed systems, with both alcohol and carbon dioxide lost to the environment. Ferment vessel type (open versus closed), fermenter size and fermentation conditions, such as temperature, speed, nutrient availability and aeration, all affect the final alcohol concentration and the degree of evaporation. Not all fermentable sugars 48
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are converted to ethanol, with some consumed for yeast biomass production. There is rarely a 1:1 mole-to-mole ratio of ethanol produced, with yields generally only 90% of the theoretical value. Does pressed grape juice adequately represent total soluble solids in the grape?
Peynaud (1984) reported that sugar levels across the different parts of the berry remain relatively constant. Hirlam et al. (2021) evaluated the differences in Brix measurements between pressed white and red grape juice and homogenised grapes, and overall found no significant difference between results. Large variability, however, was seen between replicate samples, suggesting that bunch or berry heterogeneity may affect results. www.winetitles.com.au
To understand the practical implications of these factors for different varieties, an investigation was conducted to compare varieties with different skin thicknesses. Twenty samples each of Semillon (thinskinned), Viognier (thick skinned), Tempranillo (moderate skin thickness) and Durif (thick skinned, small berries) were collected from vineyards according to the Industry Endorsed Standard Procedure detailed by Australian Grape & Wine (2023). Samples were sourced from regions across South Australia, Victoria and New South Wales, collected approximately two weeks prior to the expected commercial harvest date. Whole-bunch samples (2 kg) were destemmed by hand into a ziplock bag and pressed to extract the juice, ensuring all grapes had been pressed, and a 5 mL sample was taken for analysis. The pressed grapes were then transferred to a Ninja™ Pro X blender and blended for 90 seconds to obtain a consistent berry November 2023 – Issue 718
winemaking
Winery Pumps
Improving the flow of efficiency Considerations for the best pump options for winery operations
Winemaking is often complex and intricate process with one of the most important aspects being the humble winery pump, used to transfer wine from one vessel to another. Here, Grapegrower & Winemaker examines the critical role that pumps play in the winery, the options available to winemakers and the different approaches to their effective use.
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mploying the right pump and its proficient use can have a considerable impact on the effectiveness of the wine production process, both in terms of quality and efficiency. There are, of course, a number of different types pumps utilised in wineries, each one with its own unique set of advantages and disadvantages. Following is a list of the different types of pumps that can be found in operation across wineries in Australia and New Zealand. • Centrifugal pumps are the most common type of pump used in wineries. They are simple to operate and maintain, and are ideal for transferring large volumes of wine quickly. Centrifugal pumps work by using a rotating impeller to create a vacuum that draws wine into the pump and then pushes it out through a discharge port. • Positive displacement pumps are another common type of pump used by winemakers. These work by trapping wine between two moving parts (such as gears or lobes) and then pushing it through a discharge port. Positive displacement pumps are ideal for transferring wine gently, without damaging it. • Peristaltic pumps are a type of positive displacement pump that use a series of rollers to compress a flexible tube, which then pushes wine through the pump. These are ideal for transferring wine gently, without exposing it to air or other contaminants. • Diaphragm pumps (also known as membrane pumps) use a flexible diaphragm to transfer wine from one container to another. Diaphragm
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pumps are also optimal for gentle wine transportation without exposure.
Challenges faced when using winery pumps While pumps are an essential part of the winemaking process, they can also present several challenges for winemakers. Some of the most common challenges faced when using pumps in wineries include oxidation, contamination, clogging and energy consumption. Oxidation Wine is highly susceptible to oxidation, which can cause it to spoil or lose its flavour. When using pumps in wineries, it is important to minimise exposure to air as much as possible. Contamination Wine can be contaminated by bacteria or other microorganisms if it comes into contact with unclean surfaces or equipment. It is therefore important to ensure that all equipment is thoroughly cleaned and sanitised before use. Clogging Pumps can become clogged if they are not properly maintained or if they are used to transfer wine that contains solids or other debris. Energy consumption Winery pumps can consume a significant amount of energy, leading to increased operating costs for wineries.
AT A GLANCE The new technologies helping wineries improve their operations and reduce costs: ● Smart pumps that use variable frequency drives (VFDs) to adjust motor speed and optimize performance. ● Variable frequency drives (VFDs) that control the speed of electric motors, reducing energy consumption and improving efficiency. ● A ‘sanitary design’ approach that minimises contamination risks and ensures hygienic conditions in winery equipment and facilities. ● Portable pumps that can be easily moved around sites to transfer wine (or even irrigate vineyards). ● Internet of Things which is a network of connected devices that collect data from wineries to optimise production and quality. ● Artificial Intelligence which is used to analyse data from wineries to improve decisionmaking and optimise wine quality.
Incorporating new technology into winemaking
Smart pumps
Advances in technology have made it possible for winemakers to address many of the challenges faced, and to improve their use of pumps in the winery. Among recent trends and technological developments related to winery pumps include:
Smart pumps are equipped with sensors that can monitor flow rates, pressure levels, and other parameters in real-time. Once assessed, this data can be used to optimise pump performance and reduce energy consumption.
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November 2023 – Issue 718
winemaking
Behind the Top Drops
Evans & Tate Redbrook Estate Shiraz
Matt Byne
The winner of the Max Schubert Trophy for Most Outstanding Red Wine of Show at this year’s Royal Adelaide Wine Show went to the Evans & Tate 2019 Redbrook Estate Shiraz. To explore the history of the wine and the Margaret River vines and the winemaking that brings this red wine to fruition each vintage, Sonya Logan put the following questions to Matt Byrne, senior winemaker for Evans & Tate, which joined the portfolio of wine brands owned by the Fogarty Wine Group in 2012. When was the first Evans & Tate Redbrook Estate Shiraz made and released?
Under the Estate label it was the 2016 vintage but this fruit has been bottled under Reserve or simply Evans & Tate Shiraz since 1978. Was there anything in particular that precipitated that initial release?
The Shiraz in our Redbrook Vineyard was planted in 1975 when planting a red winegrape variety other than those originating in Bordeaux was unheard of, so much so that John and Toni Tate
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copped a lot of flack for doing so from a few other local vineyard owners. But this did not waver their belief in the potential of making world class Shiraz wines from this site, hence they went forth and planted in a site normally reserved for Cabernet Sauvignon and these vines still exist today! What else can you tell us about the Redbrook Vineyard?
Redbrook has always been estate owned as it is the ‘jewel-in-thecrown’ of Evans & Tate. It is a small 20-hectare property located www.winetitles.com.au
3km from the Indian Ocean on Metricup Road in the heart of the famed Wilyabrup area of the Margaret River winegrowing region. Exclusively planted to red varieties — clonal Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot — the 2.1ha of Shiraz was planted in 1975 on ancient ironstone gravel soils, orientated east-west and managed on a Scott Henry trellis system — all unique within the region! It’s a delight to witness how compatible these varieties are to the Wilyabrup area of Margaret River. The gentle moderating November 2023 – Issue 718