Discover the South by Cipriano Marin

DISCOVER THE SOUTH

GUIDE TO TH E SOUTH WEST OFTENERIFE

Discover the SOUTH

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TOWN HALLS OF ADEJE, ARONA,

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Discover the SOUTH GUIDE TO THE SOUTH WEST OFTENERIFE

•

INOEX

INTROOUCTION GUANCHES, CORSAIRS, LOROS, PEASANTS AND TOURISTS

( 7,13 )

•................••....•..•........•.................• TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT ANCESTRAL TRAILS

•...........

BRIOLE PATHS TRADITIONAL EXCURSIONS PLACES OF WORSHIP

THE SECRETS OF NATURE • THE COLOURS OF THE SOUTH, A GEOLOGICAL MOSAIC • A JOURNEY AROUNO THE VOLCANOES OF THE OISTRICT • PROTECTED AREAS • STAR GAZING • A BIRD'S EYE VIEW ITHE TALEOF THELANOI

•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• THE HAND OF MAN • THE CONOUEST OF THE HARVEST ·IRRIGATlON BY MIRACLE

••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

..t. ':'.. .. . '

v:~~

~------~~~-----------------------------------

Discover the SOUTH

-------------------------------------------,

INOEX

THE COAST ANO THE SEA • THE FORMS OF THE COAST • LlFE IN THE SEA • COASTAL MEMOIRS, WINOS ANO WAVES

••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

•......

• •••

THE PALATE OF THE OISTRICT

USEFUL INFORMATION ON THE SOUTH FARMER'S MARKETS HANOICRAFTS LOCAL FIESTAS USEFUL INFORMATlON

Discover the SOUTH

~~----------------------------~~--

INTRODUCTION

, \

â&#x20AC;˘

ISIDRO DARDIĂ&#x2018;A. CHAIRMAN

OF CIT SO TH (TOURIST BOARD)

he publication of this guide is a historical milestone for the South of Tenerife. The image of the south of the island has changed since the tourist industry started to grow. The south of the island is now famous for its beaches and coastline, and the best c1imate in the world.

The variety of the foothills and inland areas, its historie villages, places of worship, customs, cuisine, etc., have gradually been neglected and forgotten. But the south is more than sun, sea and sand; it has a magnificent variety of cultural and natural resources and the aim of this guide is to provide information about them. Given the Iimits of a book of this kind, the contents of course represent a brief sample of this variety. Visitors who

explore the area will discover far more about our natural and cultural wealth than can be covered in this guide. As we said earlier on, this guide is a historicallandmark. This is the first time that the eight boroughs of the area have come together, to provide information for both residents and visitors and so that we can all participate in the benefits of tourism. We would like to thank the eight boroughs of the area, and CajaCanarias and AE A too, for playing an active and decisive part in this project. Without their contributions, the cultural guide that you have in your hands would never have been possible.

Discover the SOUTH

Guanches, corsairs, lords, peasants and tourists

INTRODUCTlON

What we can see now is only a tiny part of what remains of the titanic construction of the island. That epic of fire and water is now in the distant past, although traces are still visible and easy to recognise for anyone who wants to discover the secrets of an island from beginning lo end.

"The east was painted in muted COIOlas,rays 01 fire were staning 10 pierce the clouds, and suddenly; the Sun, breaking through the scudding c/ouds 01 the morning, rase up radiantiy to illuminate the Wesl. In that moment, the peak 01 Teide appeared in the distance like a meteoro On board the cry 01 land ahoy rang out, and the most beautiiul 01 the Fortuntne lsles lay bejore us, the hospitable island 01 Tenerije, resting place lar sailors " â&#x20AC;˘

Sabio Berthelot,

1839

GUANCHES, CORSAIRS, LORDS, PEASANTS AND TOURISTS

â&#x20AC;˘

C!PRIANO

MARi

CABRERA

illions of years ago, the entrails of the earth poured un imaginable volcanoes out from the sea bed. The horizon was broken by colossal rock walls surrounding lands wracked by gigantic eruptions. Mighty basalt edifices rose up above the waves, later to be known as the Canary Islands. What we can see today is just a small part of what remains of the titanic construction of an island. That epic of fire and water now lies in the distant past, although traces are still visible and easily recognisable to anyone willing to discover the secrets of an island from beginning to end. Time has softened these burning mountains of lava. Mantles of life have covered the island and, even now, we are lucky enough in Tenerife to see forms of vegetation that are an open window to the forests of the Tertiary Age. The coast was drawn and redrawn thousands of times before the southern coastline took its present shape. And finally, over the course of thousands of years, water has sculpted out deep ravines and gorges as the setting for some of the real gems of biodiversity to be found on Earth. When geology and life completed the design of the stage, myths and legends started to weave their final forms. Ever since the times of Ancient Greece, there have been references to the islands beyond the pillars of Hercules. The Garden of the Hesperides, the Islands of Delights, or the Fortunate Islands set in these latitudes, it is even

claimed that Atlantis was located on these immense platforms of lava that make up the Canary Islands. It would not be unreasonable to c1aim that the Phoenicians visited the south of Tenerife; maybe they were the first to do so. But we do know for sure that these coasts were gradually discovered and explored by sailors setting out from Cadiz, by the Greek discoverer Eudoxus, by Roman sailors and by Juba II of Mauritania in the last quarter of the 1st century B.e. After these references, carne silence, over one thousand years of history buried by time. When the Spanish conquerors reached these lands in the 15th century, they carne across an unexpected population of settlers, as one must not forget that the islands of the region, such as Madeira and the Azores, were completely uninhabited. The proud and haughty Guanches had a surprising culture, suspended in time, in which the South apparently played a decisive role. In fact, there is talk of an ancient political organisation in Tenerife, centred on Adeje, which disappeared in the mid 15th century. From then on, we start to hear about the nine naive kingdoms or "Menceyatos", that the Europeans found when they arrived. The signs of these by-gene ages can still be seen in a multitude of archaeological sites and in the livestock trails worn into the wild lands of the south by nomadic herdsmen. Once Alonso Fernandez de Lugo had overcome the last pockets of 11

Discover the SOUTH

GUANCHES, CORSAIRS, LORDS, PEASANTS AND TOURISTS

resistance in the north of the island, in July, 1496, Tenerife beeame part of the Kingdom of Castile. But, peace was not achieved for some time, despite the fact that almost a century had passed since lean de Bethencourt disembarked in Lanzarote in l402. For many years, the daring inhabitants of the south had to live and cope with pirates. From the hill tops, settlers in the south would always keep an eye on the seas. Are those sails on the horizon friends or foe? If they were friends, settlers would go down to the shore with their bundles of merchandise; if not, they left the task of defending the island to the locallords, whilst they sought refuge in the mountains, or scattered deep into their lands. The Casa Fuerte (Fortress House), built in l556 close to the Church of Santa Ursula, in Adeje, is an important piece of the history of those dark times of strange alliances. As this was the household of the Marquis of Adeje, it played host on several occasions to English corsair John Hawkins, who taught Franeis Drake everything he knew about piracy. The Lords of the south of the island did lucrative business with Discover

the SOUTH

Hawkins, selling black siaves for transportation to America. But, although this was the visible part of history, life in the south was silently established and maintained by the islanders who tamed a land that did no appear to have been created for them. The rocks that burned the surfaee of the island were broken down and scattered over the fields of erops. in order to capture the moisture of the morning mists.ln this way, colossallandscapes of stone shaped an un usual way of farming without water; what was known as irrigation by miracle. Bridle paths were built through the foothills, paving the former Guanche trails with stone. This provided communications between the lovely settlements of the south, set like bulwarks on hilltops and ridges. These trails were dotted with the silence of ehurches that can still be seen. In the course of time. the south turned its attention timidly to the sea. The ancient fishing lore was never lost along the eoastline. In faet. the fishing teehniques developed by the original settlers of the island were used right up until the middle of the last eentury.

GUANCHES, CORSAIRS, LOROS, PEASANTS ANO TOURISTS

Until water was finally discovered, miners of water opened up an incredible network of galleries in the very entrails of the volcano to slake the thirst of the south, channelling the snows and rains that had filtered down into the earth over the centuries. The availability of water and accessible coasts together moulded the final scenarios in the south. What was undoubtedly a disadvantage when pirates arrived to pillage this part of the island was turned into an advantage for growing produce for exporto The southern strip of the island was flooded with irrigation channels and tomato and banana plantations. This period marked one of the last episodes in the construction of a landscape, in which man's efforts have now had almost as much influence as those of Mother Nature. Despite the many times of uncertainty, the south of the island and its inhabitants never lost their notion of an island open to visitors with an enormous capacity to blend cultures. In 1839, Sabino Berthelot described this sensation very graphically: "The east was painted in muted colours, rays of fire were starting to pierce the c1ouds, and suddenly, the Sun, breaking through the scudding clouds of the morning. rose up radiantly to illuminate the West. In that moment, the peak of Teide appeared in the distance like a meteor. On board the cry of land ahoy rang out, and the most beautiful of the Fortunate Isles lay before us, the hospitable island of Tenerife, resting place for sailors" Discover

These words now sound like a premonition. Over a century later, the sun and the rough scenery of the south once again open the gates to a new alliance of peace with tourism. So this is the vision and the mission of the Guide that you have in your hands. "Discover the South" has been written to encourage you to patiently discover al! the traces of the past in the present and lo point

out those unique places that Mother Nature took millions of years to construct. This Guide also proposes a pact, an appeal for your cooperation in helping to conserve a unique heritage as a legacy for future generations.

the

SOUTH

Traces of the past in the present

ANCESTRAL TRAILS

• BRIDLE PATHS

T RADITIONAL

EXCURSIONS

• PLACES OF WORSHIP

Almost a century after the Spanish conquest of Tenerife, military engineer Leonardo Torriani was sent by King Phillip 11with the mission of drawing up a plan to fortify the Canary Islands. In his report to the King, he drew the first known map of the lsland, describing its southern slopes as follows:

"Burned

and devastated by an infinity of ancieru volcanoes"

Jsland 01 Thnerife, 1588l.eonardo 'lbrriani

â&#x20AC;˘

Leonardo

Torriani. 1588

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT

the South were to become a granary that was vital for the survival of the entire island population. These settlements, seats of the present borough councils of the area, all conserve small historie sites. where you can still see elements of a peculiar town planning and architectural past.

Monta単a Roja Volcano. El Medano.

GRANADILLA

volcanic nature, lack of fertile soils and a dry climate with long hours of sunlight

Upper mili stone.

ADEJE.

MMus~umofMan

DE ABONA

have sculpted the tough, arid landscape of the lowlands of the South West of Tenerife. Life for the first settlers of this part of the island was lived in these natural conditions. The aboriginal herdsmen created a network of routes and trails covering the entire district. All along these routes, there is a

varied archaeological heritage that provides us with the clues we need to gain an insight into the mysterious pre-history of Tenerife. Going back in time to sometime in the 16th century, we would see the first settlements being established by the newcomers from Castile. The grain fields of

BB [J ....111e door of a traditional house. S. MIGUEL DE ABO\A

and

\otu,~M

Discover the SOUTH

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT

Cross by the wayside.

for former peasants, the creators of an agricultural landscape of undoubted ethnographic value, and which still survives. Chapels, churches, shrines and wayside crosses are evidence of an old religious sentiment that is closely Iinked to the events that feed the collective memory of the men and women of the South of the Island. GRANADILLA

DE ABONA

Clay bowl,

GRANADILLA DE ABONA

"MustumofยกVUIUrt

undMan"

Caserio de las fuentes, GUร A

In this area, with over five hundred years of local history, and with a coastline that has been converted into an international holiday resort, the survival of many material witnesses of a wide and varied cultural tradition enables us to continue to follow the traces of the past in the present.

DE ISORA

ar from the towns and villages, you can still find villages and hamlets that were the refuge, dwelling place and home

Oven. El Roque. SAN

MIGUEL DE ABONA

Discover the SOUTH

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Ancestrals trails

ANCESTRAL] L-

The first settlers of the South West of the Island were the herdsmen from two kingdoms, each with its own boundaries or limits, known as "Menceyatos". Of the nine Menceyatos or aboriginal kingdoms that the island was divided into, the kingdoms of Adeje, to the west, and Abona, to the east, covered the area of the eight municipal boroughs that now make up the district of Chasna - Isora, in the South West of Tenerife.

TRAILS

Borders of the Aboriginal Kingdoms of the Island of Tenerife. L.

"The herdsman, on the other hand, walks in a ealm and relaxed [ashion, unhurriedly travelling his world, inventing the trails lo whicb he will remain roughly [aithful, diseovering the springs, to whicn he will always return, and (he surprising eyc/e of the seasons, lo whieh he will adapt his movements" L.

o. Cuscoy.

1968

AREAS OF COMMON GRAZING

1968

Discover

[he SOUTH

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Ancestrals trails

View of the district with El Tcidc in the background. ARICO

ong before the Island was conquered, an extensive and varied landscape between Santiago del Teide and Arico, from the sea shores to the mountain peaks was continually travelled by herdsmen with their flocks of goats and sheep. During the rainy season, the livestock was taken down to the lowlands, near the

coast, where the vegetation, resistant to the dry conditions, wind and salt and the water holes provided grazing for them. Shellfish and fish provided food for the Guanches, the name of the native inhabitants of Tenerife. As the dry season drew closer, the Guanches and their herds

started to climb slowly up towards the highland pastures, reaching the mountain grazing in the heat of summer. This constant journey from the coast to the mountains and back again generated a vast network of tracks and trails, part of which can still be walked. The Guanches from this part of the lsland knew exactly where to go for sustenance at any time of year. That is why the coastal strip of the district is criss-crossed by recognisable grazing trails from El Poris de Abona, in Arico, to the beaches near the Los Gigantes Cliffs in Santiago del Teide. As there are large areas of impermeable rock along the coast, a large number of freshwater pools can form here for herdsmen and their livestock to slake their thirst. We will also find the "ere" here,

for the same purpose. This is a hollow in the impermeable rock bed of the ravines, where rain water collected along with fine sand. They had to dig down through the sand to reach the water accumulated in the "ere". After decanting it, they would take what they needed, and then they would re-cover the "ere" with sand to prevent the remaining water from evaporating.

Ere in Los Abrigos. GRANAIJILLA DE ABO~A

Discover thc SOUTH

----------------------------------------~,

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Ancestrals trails

View of the district with El Teide in the background.

ong before the lsland was conquered, an extensive and varied landscape between Santiago del Teide and Arico, from the sea shores to the mountain peaks was continually travelled by herdsmen with their flocks of goats and sheep. During the rainy season, the livestock was taken down to the lowlands, near the

ARICO

started to c1imb slowly up towards the highland pastures, reaching the mountain grazing in the heat of summer. This constant journey frorn the coast to the mountains and back again generated a vast network of tracks and trails, part of which can still be walked. The Guanches from this part of the lsland knew exactly where to go for sustenance at any time ofyear. That is why the coastal strip of the district is criss-crossed by recognisable grazing trails frorn El Poris de Abona, in Arico, to the beaches near the Los Gigantes Cliffs in Santiago del Teide. As there are large areas of impermeable rock along the coast, a large number of freshwater pools can form here for herdsmen and their livestock to slake their thirst. We will also find the "ere" here,

Discover the SOUTH

Ere in Los Abrigos. GRA.\ADILLA DE Aso\A

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT

Ancestrals trails

We can still see a well-preserved "ere" close to the road that runs frorn El Medano to Los Abrigos, at a place known as Cueva del Hermano Pedro (Brother Peter's Cave), on the coast of the borough of Granadilla de Abona. Plants like the balo and the Paris daisy, abundant in these coastal areas, are highly valued as tender grazing for the livestock after the rains. The abundant spurges produce a kind of latex, which, in those days was used to cure diseases of the udders of goats and sheep.

Bone spatula. SA\TIAGO DEl TEIDE.

\lustumo(\'all/ftund

Spurge scrub on Monta単a Amarilla. SAN MIGUEL

The shoreline also offered the Guanches of the south, potential for food. Fish and shell-fish contributed to their diet, as the aboriginal herdsmen knew how to fish and collect shellfish. One primitive form of fishing consisted of building a stone wall across the small coves along the coast as the tide went out. As the tide rose again, it brought large quantities of fish with it, which were trapped between the shore and the stone walls as the water fell. The Guanches would then throw pieces of spurge into the water, which gave off its sap that

paralysed the fish, enabling the Guanches to catch them. These fish traps can be seen along the path to Punta de Rasca, near the Iighthouse of the same name, on the coast of the borough of Arona. The fact that there are remains of mollusc shells forming visible mounds called "concheras", along with prehistoric tools to be found all along the coast is a clear sign that herdsmen spent some time in these places.

\tan.

Discover the SOUTH

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT

Ancestrals trails

Rudimentary, dry stone constructions, of low walls and a diversity of shapes, bear silent witness to old refuges, pens and stopping places that were always close to the coastal paths and used temporarily by groups of natives. The remains of these camps can be seen along the coastal trails from El Poris de Abona, El Medano and La Punta de Rasca, to the mouth of the Herques ravine and the coasts of Alcala and Santiago del Teide. With the arrival of the spring, the flocks were taken up into the foothills; between four and eight hundred metres above sea level,

throughout the district. The foothills were the favourite place of the Guanches of the South. These lands provided water all year round and grazing for the livestock long after the rains had come and gone. Broad, gentle slopes and varied

Wooden

combo

SANTIAGO DEL TEIDE.

"MuSl'um

al Nature

vegetation, cut by deep ravines with permanent water courses. This would be the reconstructed image of this landscape over five hundred years ago. Trees that today are scarce (mocan and strawberry tree), provided berries for the natives of the South, whilst bushes like

the juniper provided wood. The abundance of other plant species like cistus and tagasaste provided excellent grazing for the livestock.They built their settlements in caves dug into the sides of the ravines. This is where they lived, protected their flocks and buried their

und

The shape of the pieces and their decoration enable us to compare them with other ancient cultures, providing clues that help us to discover their origins. The ash and other household remains that was generally placed at the en trance to the cave, tell us about their eating habits. Pieces of cured skins and plaited plants show us how they dressed. Their tools and utensils were made of stone and wood.

MUII. ~

dead. The information to be found in these settlements is a direct source for discovering and studying this nation of ancient herdsmen. The pottery found in the cave dwellings tell us about the know-how and technical skills these people had in this field.

Reconstructed hemispherical bowl. ARONA. "Museum

oi Noiure and Man"

Discover the SOUTH

---------------------------------------------

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Ancestrals trails

Mommy from a burial ground discovered in Barranco dellnfiemo. ADEJE."Museum

The burial cave was their cemetery. Mommies and funeral offerings tell us of their worship of the dead. All the aboriginal settlements of the district are situated in this strip of land. From the cave settlements that sheltered a large group of aborigines in the ravines that cross Tamaimo, Arguayo and Santiago del Teide to the West, to the burial caves

of Notu"

vast woodlands were used as a stop-over on the way to the highland pastures. The forest provided shade, water from springs and brooks. Pine branches were used for roofing the stone cabins of their camps and refuges. Pine sap was used as a poultice to close wounds. In the shade of the pine trees, there was juniper and tagasaste for wood for the herdsmen and grazing for their livestock. Remains of these camps in the pine forest can be seen along the paths that run from the Madre del Agua forestry trail, in the borough of Granadilla, to Degollada de Guajara, or from Vilaflor de Chasna to the Ucanca Valley.

and Man"

in the ravines of La Cisnera (Arico), Chi単ama (Granadilla de Abona) and El Pilon (San Miguel de Abona), to the East. Some can be recognised at a distance, where the local roads cross these ravines. At the beginning of the long hot summer, the Guanches started to climb up to the grazing camps of the highlands. All the trails leading up to the

Bowl.

uMUSfWI!

o/ Namre ami

Man"

high mountains from the foothills of the South, lead up through the pine forests. These 23

Discover the SOUTH

--------------------------------------

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Ancestrals trails

A long ridge of mountain peaks runs from Arico to Santiago del Teide, criss-crossed by ancestral grazing trails. The natural routes to the Ca単adas del Teide run through the gorges of Guajara and

Remains

of a a circular

cabin, Ueanea

The short time the Guanches spent in this area, before rapidly descending through the passes to the open plains of the Ucanca valley, have also left their marks. As in other places they passed through, the refuges

and camps are reminiscent of those we have seen down on the coast, although the crags offer hollows and ledges for building temporary shelters. Grazing is provided by sticky broom and white broom.

Valley

Ucanca, Boca de Tauce and Llanos de la Santidad. Once through the pine forests, above two thousand metres, the highland grazing trails cover all the high mountain peaks. The southern wall of the Ca単adas del Teide Circus is the great balcony overlooking the entire South of Tenerife.

North Wall of (he Degollada

de Guajara.

GRANADILLADE ABONA

Discover the SOUTH

At the end of the hot season, the Guanches of the South drove their flocks down to the great plain of the Ucanca valley. This was when they met herdsmen from the other side of the Island.

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Ancestrals trails

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routes

Borough Capital •

Settlements

•

Burial grounds

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Camps and refuges for herdsmen

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...1

Ravines 25 Discover

the SOUTH

FROM EL MÉDANO TO MONTAÑA PELADA Ancestrals trails Oespite the radical transformation suffered all along the south west coast of the lsland, it is still possible to find traces to remind us of the presence of the original inhabitants of the area. Following the coastline. in Granadilla de Abona from Punta del Medano until we reach the peak of Montaña Pelada. caves. refuges and camps are witnesses to the presence of ancient herdsmen. Mounds of mollusc shells, together with tools made of stone and bone found along his kind of coastal trails confirm the existence of

K.54~

Playa de La Rajita

••••••••

Montaña Pelada

ft EL MÉDANO pre-historic settlements along the South coast ofTenerife.

Playa del Médano Montaña Roja Playa de La Tejita

Punta Roja

Traíl

..•••.. Montaña Pelada Natural Monument t. Frequently used caves on Montaña Petada. 2. View 01tne El Medano coasttine from Montaña Petada. 26

Discover the SOUT"

•

Frequently used Caves

•

Herdsmen's camps

Access: El Medano Centre

cg Route: 2 hours

ARGUAYo

POnER Y CENTRE Ancestlals tlails

SANTIAGO DEL TEIDE

The Arguayo Pottery Centre in the municipal borough of Santiago del Teide, is the direct heir to the pottery created by the original settlers of the island ofTenerife; the Guanches. Pots for cooking. for warming milk, bowls far water. etc., faithfully conserve the original shapes and types, with everything made exclusively by hand, using the warp procedure, without a pouer's wheel. This Neolithic

Acantilado de Los Gigantes rAMA/MO

technique dates back almost to the dawn of time.

.....•.•."

l ...•....

Los Gigantel. i!

Pta. Santiago

1.Doña Rosa moulding a pieee of pouery using traditional teehniques in the Alfar de Arguallo. 2. Finished pieees of pouery

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the SOUTH

-------

Arguayo Pottery Centre

Access: TF-735

EXCURSION FROM

CAÑADAS DEL TEIDE

LAs LAJAS TO VllAFLOR

Guajara

Ancestrals trails

Sombrero de Chasn In the recreational area of Las Lajas, in the borough of Vilaflor, a path starts that, after descending more than seven hundred metres, leads us to the San Roque viewing area, near the historie town centre. A six-kilometre walk through one of the oldest and best conserved pine forests on the Island, shows us remains of the ancient settlers' stay in the district.

...:-"

~/ ~

_",t

Remains of cabins and herdsmen 's camps, and the scars on the trees from tapping their resin, tell us about the Guanches' journey through and use of the ancient pine forest.

<ij

l- Llanos de Trevejo

~i'

: IFONCHE Tapping the pine trees

\;, \. " :,".'

Trail

..•••.. Montaña de Las Lajas •

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------------~~~

Herdsmen's camps

Access: Recreational Zone of Las Lajas. TF-21

cg Route: 3 hours

ABORIGINAL VILLAGES ANO ENVIRONMENTS IN ARICO Ancestral trails

Walking along the former district road through the South of the lsland (TF-28), we can see a large number of ravines that we cross back and forth.ln many cases, the walls of the ravines near the road are pock -marked with caves that still conserve evidence of their former

VILLA DE ARICO

occupation. The number and variety of archaeological remains found at many 01 these sites gives us an insight into the aboriginal settlements and burial grounds in the South of the lsland.

Los Desrriseaderos

...\

Beo. de La Higuera ""'"

. •.

".'

•.....•.,

• Cave and settlement in the La Cisnera ravine, VILLA

DE ARlCO

31 Discover the SOUTH

Town

Access: TF-28

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT BridJe paths

[

BRIDLE

PATHS

The map of the Island ofTenerife tbought to have been drawn by military engineer Antonio Riviere and dated in 1740,is the first document!hat includes aIl tbe main patbs that existed on tbe IsJand. This old network of patbs originated frOID the "Camino Real" or Bridle Patb !hat were first built by early Spanish senlers of Tenerife in the late 15tb century.

"The bridle patñ will cross ravines and wind round mountains, seeking lo connect the first inhabited settlements, building a ring road that will only leave out (he massifs of Anaga and Teno".

.• '

REGIONAL PLANNING PLAN FOR THE ISLA D

InterpretatioD of the Map attribnted to Antonio Ri'l'iere.1740

1994

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TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Bridle paths

rÂĄ-11e bridle paths built by the .1 Crown of Castile were called "caminos reales". In the Canary Islands, the main paths between towns and villages were known by the same name, whether they were cart tracks or bridle paths. The geography of the Island, with its ravines and steep slopes, was an obstacle that explains the duration of the process of building road cornmunications in Tenerife. The proxirnity of the coast made shipping the preferred option for transporting large and heavy merchandise. Until the First Road Plan for Tenerife was implemented in 1860,the road network relied on the old paths and tracks that were built when the island was first settled by Spain.

Ravine bed in GUĂA

DE ISORA

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TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Bridle paths

nTenerife, the bridle paths had to comply with the regulations of the Cabildo, the Island's governing body after the conquest. The by-laws established that the paths were to have a minimum width of a one Toledo cord (approx. 7 metres), they had to be protected by fences on either side and they had to zig-zag up and down steep slopes to make the climb easier for travellers. Before 1509, paths were opened from Santa Cruz to the District of Daute, on the north west tip, passing through La Laguna, seat of the Cabildo, Tacoronte and the Orotava Valley. In the South, the paths reached as far as the G端imar Valley. It was not until the late 16th century that paths were opened to link the first settlements in Arico and Granadilla de Abona with the villages of Vilaflor and Adeje. After the late colonisation of

Guia de Isora in the late 17th century and the early 18th century, the path finally linked up to the northern slopes of the

Bridle

Island, through the District of Daute, a district that covered what are now the northern boroughs of Buenavista, El

Paih. SANTIAGO DEL TElDE

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Tanque, Los Silos and Garachico.

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT ------------~~~ Bridle paths

ike the original inhabitants, after the conquest, the first settlers to arrive in the South West ofTenerife chose the foothills as the best place to live. The water and arable land were concentrated along this strip of land between three hundred and eight hundred metres above sea leve!. As a reward for playing an active part in the conquest very often,

General view of La Escalona.

Old lime mortar channel.

VILAFLOR DE CHASNA

or for financing the conquest in other cases, the Crown started to share out land and water. The ownership of these rights could be justified to the authorities of the Crown with a document called a '路Data" or Deed. The new organisation of the lands of the island was intended to spread farming. The terracing of

lands and the construction of water reservoirs and irrigation channels close to the first inhabited settlements started to define the new landscape of the foothills. At the same time, work started on the main road network, which was designed 10 meet the needs of the settlers. The use of the wheel and beasts

of burden gave the bridle paths the consideration of a system of transport and communication for both people and merchandise.

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TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Bridle paths

Feudal estate of SA \TIAGO DEL TEIDE

nthe 17th century wine growing and the wine trade replaced sugar as a crop. The trade routes to Europe through the ports of Cadiz, Lisbon, London, Antwerp and Genoa, generated enormous growth in

the economy of the whole Island. Specialisation and concentrating solely on producing wine for export from the northern slopes of Tenerife led to an increase and

development of cereal crops in the foothills oĂ the South, which supplied the rest of the Island population. Thanks to the economic boom of this time, the towns and villages were consolidated and,

over time, these were to become the nine boroughs of the district known as Chasna-Isora.

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-----------------------------------------,

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Bridle paths

routes of the main Thehistorie paths of the South follow, to a large extent, the route of the old distriet road, now ealled TF-28. Travelling along this road allows us to reeonstruet some of the history of this part of the Island. This old road links all the historie settlements of the South West of Tenerife. The towns, villages and hamlets we travel through are plaees, most of whieh have been inhabited for over five hundred years and, therefore, have undergone a profound proeess of ehange. AII the built up areas, towns and borough eapitals have been funetioning as settlements ever sinee the Spaniards arrived. The geography of the southern foothills, eharaeterised by an abundanee of deep ravines and long slopes down to the shoreline, has aclimate that varies from the eool and damp

Bridge in La Cisnera. ARlCO

weather of the higher ground (between 600 and 900 metres), to the hot and arid elimate of the lower strip along the broad eoastal platform, whieh has also left its mark on the building style of a rural eulture with a history of several eenturies.

Coastal platform in the south west of Ienerife 37

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----------------------~~--------

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Bridle paths

designed and built. The house is a dormitory, a work place and a place to keep animals. A rectangular or square building set on cement loadbearing walls, covered by a pitched roof made from tiles, is the predominant designoThen

rooms are built and added on to the house, creating open or closed courtyards that give the final shape to the house.

DORMITORIO

SALĂ&#x201C;N

Traditional dwelling of the southern foothills with oven and water tank.

nthe villages and hamlets we come across along the old district road still conserve buildings of undoubted ethnographic value. In such a complicated land, the lack of usefui soil for growing crops forces people to concentra te their houses on the small flats set on the top of the ridges that separate one ravine from

another. The farming terraces are set around the farm buildings, using the hill sides and the edges of the ravines. Then there are the water ponds and irrigation channels to store and distribute water to the crops. The building style we can see in these settlements is basically rural and domestico The houses are all very similarly

til ÂĄ;:j

DORMITORIO

ESTABLO

!1l

~ PATIO

'fiCORRAL

~~~~----------------------------

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TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Bridlepaths

--------

The facades spread out horizonially, the shortage of equipment made it more difficult to bui/d second storeys. Building on a single level made farm 1V0rk easier and meant that the house col/Id be extended into open spaces, adding on extra rooms with the load-bearing walls as necessary. Doors, windows and balconies always opened onto the main [acode.

C. Gonzรกlez Chรกves

Load bearing wall in a traditional house. Taucho. ADEJE

Facade of a house in Taucho. ADEJE

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------

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Bridle paths

recognizable by their forms and the materials they are built from. Well conserved examples

Plaza de San Pedro.

VILAFLOR DE CHASNA

nthe historical quarters of traditional villages, one can still find many urban and architectural elements of great historical and artistic value. You will always find a square in the original villages of al! the boraughs of the district. Araund the square, you will find the parish church, the town hall and the houses of the wealthy, 40

Facade in the old town centre 01 ARONA

Town square in VILLA

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DE Ă RICO

can be seen in the squares of San Miguel, Villa de Arico, Arana, Vilaflor and Guia de Isora.

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT

B~OOk~_m_S

SANTIAGO DEL TEIDE "

. ........................ ........ ...... -,

•••••• Beo de La Linde

"\,

I~R·\.

.........

"\'"

'..... ~

Beo de Erques

'-, VEGAS

\....

•• • .."" .•s

Bridle Paths

Beo del

GRANADILLA

Ravines

/,AN

, Feudal Manors (17th century)

•

LA HOYA

Villages and Hamlets Historical settlements (16th - 17th century)

•.••••\ •

"\.

:...

"- •••••.Beo de La Clsnera

Ri~·,.....

....

\ . MIGUEL

&:o. de l.HIg.wr

i Beo de l.Orehlll • \ .•.....

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FROM ARONA TO SAN MIGUEL DE ABONA Bridle paths

me old district road of the SOUlh,recognizable today as the TF-28. for most of the route, runs along the former Bridle Path that Iinked the vil!ages of the district with the rest of the Island. Travel!ing along this road. we can visit al! the original settlements of the South West of Tenerife.

Each of these original settlernents were the vil!ages that were the centres of the first parish churches and town halls that were the beginnings of today's municipal boroughs. Remarkable examples of these original town centres are the squares of the historical town centres of Arona and San Miguel de Abona.

\ Barranco J de la / Orchilla s

Malpaís de Rasca

LAS GALLETAS

-e

Las Galletas

Street in the historical settlement of SAN MIGUEL DE ABONA

•

Discover (he SOUTH

Foundational settlements of Arona and San Miguel

Montaña Amarilla

Playa de los Abrigos

COSTA DEL SILENCIO

Accesses:TF-28/ TF-51

VISIT TO THE HAMLET OF TAUCHO Bridle paths

Houses always built in the middle of a smallholding. suggest a rurallife of self-sufficiency that goes back a long way. The hamlet of Taucho, in the borough of Adeje, is

a good example of this kind settlements that are isolated in the highest folds of the foothills of the South West ofTenerife.

TAUCHO

ADEJE

Hamlet of Taucho. ADEJE

45 Discover the SOUTH

11 Hamlet of Taucho

'A"

Access: TF-523

VISIT OF THE HAMLET OF

LAs FUENTES Bridle paths

..'.'

\\\\

The construction of the network of paths that provides the district with communications has been the result of a continued effort that has lasted over four hundred years. Villages and settlements that are now accessible by road. were isolated from the rest of the world until well into the 20th century

An example of this isolation can be found in the hamlet of Las Fuentes, in the borough of Guia de Isora. Located on the eastern slopes of Montaña de Tejina at a thousand metres above sea level, it can be reached along a track that starts just before reaching the hamlet of Vera de Erques along the TF-465 road.

Barranco de Tejinp.··········

···..·11

:-'

...I...-L,

"'1"""""

,,,•.

'."'"'''' """" •. "".", ",' '.... " """ .•.••.•.•... , •••••..••. ..,""".,1111, ••.•..• ,111111111111111'"

ADEJE

11 Ham/et of Las Fuentes

Close up of the building style in the harnlet of Las Fuentes, GUlA DE ISORA 46

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----l

Access: TF-465

•."

VISIT OF THE HAMLET

OF LAS FUENTES Bridle paths

The construction of the network of paths that provides the district with communications has been the result of a continued effort that has lasted over four hundred years Villages and settlements that are now accessible by road. were isolated from the rest of the world until well into the 20th century.

An example of this isolation can be found in the hamlet of Las Fuentes. in the borough of Guia de Isora. Located on the eastern slopes of Montaña de Tejina at a thousand metres above sea level. it can be reached along a track that starts just before reaching the hamlet of Vera de Erques along the TF-465 road.

ADEJE

Close up of the building style in the hamlet oí Las Fuentes 46

GUíA DE ISORA

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----------------~

11 Hamlet of Las Fuentes

jii

Access: TF-485

CHASNA BRIDLE PATH Bridle paths

One of the first paths to link the two sides of the island was to be the Chasna Bridle Path, running from Villa de la Orotava, on the northern side, across the Ucanca plain through Portillo and crossing Las Cañadas del Teide through the Degollada de Guajara before descending to the foundational settlement of

Vilafor, linking the south with all the other historical settlements of the district. The original trajectory rernains, running upwards from Vilatlor to the Degollada de Guajara in the highlands of Granadilla. before dropping sharply through the Cañada del Monton de Trigo to the northern slopes of the Island,

,,/;

Barranco dellnfiern",\"

¡~'! s

,,\\\.\\\

s-"

Barranco de la Higuera

iBarrancol / del Rey¡>" , "l

il"~

Montaña de Las Coloradas

de Trevejo

Barran~~"",

de la Orchilla ""\

} _ Herdsmen's refuge near Degollada de Cuajara. Mountains of GRANADlLLA

DE ABONA

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Chana Bridle Path

Access to Vilaflor: TF-21

C9 Route: 4 hours

TRADITIONAL EXCURSIONS

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Traditional excursions

The car did not become the general means of transport on the Island until the 196()'s.1twas also at this time when the old project of building a ring road al! around Tenerife reached Guia de Isora. completing the route with a farm track between La Escalona. in the borough of Vilaílor de Chasna. and Santiago del Teide .

.... And as a luxury!

E. Guillén Rodríguez.

1999

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the SOUTH

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Traditional excursions

South and the West of the lsland with the port of Santa Cruz and the main trading centres of the North, road links were built to connect the settlements of the southern foothills with ports or wharfs to connect the whole district with the outside, thus permitting the export of their agricultural produce.

Stone constructions opposite Teide.

e could define the first half of the 20th century as the period of the construction of commercial farming in the South West of Tenerife. Tomatoes, introduced by English trading companies in

the late 19th century, extended beyond the foothills to take over all the.1owland areas of the wide coastal plain. Systems to bring water from the northern slopes of the island made intensive farming and

irrigation possible, thus consolidating commercial farming in the South. In the early 20th century, in light of the fact that it was enormously difficult to build adequate raads to link the

Davit. GUĂA DE ISORA

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~~-------------------------------------

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Traditional excursions

new roads and other coastal

he road links from Santiago del Teide-Puerto de Santiago, Guia de Isora-Puerto de Alcala,

Adeje-La Caleta, Arona-Los Cristianos, San Miguel-Los Abrigos, Granadilla-El Medano and Arico-El Poris de Abona provide us with a clue for interpreting this new landscape. The intense activity in public works along the coast made a sharp contrast with the slow progress being made in completing the ring road around the island. Improvements to existing roads and the building of

Poris de Abona lighthouse. ARĂco Discover the SOUTH

installations (har-bour roads, defences, lighthouses. etc.) became widespread in the twenties. All this activity, concentrated along the coast, was accompanied by the construction of new local tracks (farm tracks and dirt tracks) that reinforced the relations between the coast, the foothills and the highlands. Road connections between the trading centres of the north and south of the Island, either going around the island ring road or crossing the mountains, were replaced by sea routes.

Packing line machine in a tarming co-operative,

GCIA

DEISORA

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT

Traditional excursions n early and remarkable example of the concept of sea transport as a business activity can be seen in the Sociedad de San Miguel, a shipping company founded in 1923 by a group of families who owned land in the baroughs of San Miguel de Abona and Guia de Isora. In 1926, the company owned two motor schooners; the San Miguel and the Delfin, and the steam ships Isora and Adeje. Sailboats and steamers sailed the waters of the south, stopping at the main ports and anchorages. Both native products and imported goods were brought to the ports of Poris, Tajao, El Médano, Los Abrigos, Las Galletas, Los Cristianos, La Caleta, Puertito de Adeje, Playa de San Juan and Puerto de Santiago. These boats loaded up with local agricultural produce: tornatoes, wine, alrnonds, cheese,

~ÑA HER

JOSE

AN EZ

Servicio marítimo interinsular, en especial para los puertos de la Isla de Tenerife, por los buques

ISORA,

A.DEJE,

y SA

1I/1111111l!/!1II111111111

I I

la noche.

Salida para Cara-

col"

11 G UE L

.¡

Salidas fijas para el Su : los mi ér-

,.,.

DELFIN

1111111111111111111111I11I

Se admite e rga todos los di laborables

sabadcs por

Dirección telegráfiea:

DELFI

chico: los martes.

TE LE FONO

B 1Il1llIlHlIII.I;'

11111111111111111111111111

1:1111

OFICINAS:

MUELLE PRINCIPAL

CRUZ

SANTA cochineal, etc. and left supplies of farm equipment, machinery,

618

TENERIFE

fuel, fabrics, seeds, fertilizers and packing material. 51

Discover the SOUTH

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Traditional excursions

or t?e islanders, th~ idea of a tnp or excursion IS associated with the car as a means of transport. The excursion has formed part of the traditional family activities ever since the use of the car as a means of private or collective transport spread through the islands. The family trip to enjoy other different and distant parts of the island was the traditional excursion. For the men and women of the foothills of the South, before tourism really took off, the most frequent trip was probably an excursion down to the coast. By the late sixties, an extensive network of narrow surfaced roads and dirt tracks provided connections between the traditional settlements and the ports and beaches of the district. You could take a car, van or "guagua" (bus) from the main

square of any of the main towns or villages to take you down to

the coast. A day out on the beach in the South started to

Discover the SOUTH

become a popular custom.

TRACES ------------------

he road runs down quickly from the foothills, leaving behind the familiar farms and places that form a landscape of farmhouses

OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT

~~~~---------------

Traditional excursions

surrounded by small holdings, to bring us to the major estates of the broad coastal plain. Small houses, divided into different rooms are the dwellings of the

farm workers and their families during the tomato season. Stone walls protect the crops from the prevailing winds. Long irrigation ditches of sand

Farm couages in the San Lorenzo Valley.

and stone distributed the water in all directions. Piles of cane create false villages of cabins. Beyond this agricultural landscape lies the coastline. where lighthouses, wharves, davits and small containing walls suggest a very busy recent past. The extensive sand beach became a leisure spot at the end of the journey. El \ledano beach in the sixties, GRA~ADILLA

DE ABO\A

53 Discover

the SOUTH

----------------------------------------------~

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Traditional excursions

PUERTO SANTlAGoft

de La Linde ".... ". Playa de Las Eras

>.~~.O -,

...

'.' Beo de Icor

'. \~rLl.A DE ~Rl~O

LASV:~~:"\ ". .............. G,RANADILLA ...

....

Beo del Rio:'

eH"('eo EL~I'O

SAN MIGUEL ....

\.~.eo de La Cisnera

.... ....

\.~CO.

de la Higuera

............

Dislrict road Beo del Re)!"

Access lo the coast

•

Settlements

•••••• Ravines

PI'Y'''''lO'~'''''''~LOS CRISTIANOS

•

ELM!OANO

PI.YI ""los Abrigos

.' 54

Discover the SOUT~H~

.....

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Places 01 workship

PLACESOF [

WORSHIP

] _ The popular devotion for beatified Pedro de Bethencourt, Brother Pedro, is one of the most significan! phenomena of popular religious fervour in the Canary Islands and, at the same time, a particularly representative expression of local and insular identity. Bom in 1626 in Vilaflor. he became a goatherd at a very early age, grazing his flocks along the Medano shores and living in a cave that now bears his name and which has now become a place of worship and pilgrimage for people from all over the Island At the age of 22. he set out for America. to start on his lifelong work of spreading the Gospel. Considered the Patron Saint of Guatemala, he was declared VENERABLE by Pope Clement XIV in 1771 and beatified by Pope John Paulll on 22 lune, 1980.

1 ha ve come here lo call you Saint, beca use Saint, you are. Prayer wriuen lo Beatified Brother Pedro By Miguel Angel Asturias. Guatemalan Winner ofThe Nobel Prize for Literalure.1967 Devotion for Brother Pedro is very deep rooted. 55

Discover the SOUTH

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Places of workship

nything that touches upon religion and the myths about the first settlers of Tenerife seems to be wrapped in a thick fog, making it very difficult to study. A pre-historic nation of herdsmen should have beliefs related to the manifestations of Nature that affected their everyday survival. Historical records talk of the "baladeros" as places of Guanche rites: More when the storms did not come and, due to lack of water, there was no grass for their flocks, they brought their sheep together in certain places that were for that purpose, which they called the dancing place of the sheep, sticking a staff or spear into the earth, they took the lambs away from the sheep and kept the mothers around the spear bleating,and wilh this

Aboriginal

stone engravings. GUĂA

DE ISORA

ceremony, they understood that God was placated, and that he heard the bleating of the sheep, and he sent them storms. A. Espinosa. 1594 The practice of mummifying their dead and the funeral offerings found in many existing burial caves in the island also show that the Guanches worshipped death and the dead. Bead necklace from aboriginal funeral offerings.

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"MUSt'um o/ Nafllre and Mafl~

--------TRACES Like any society, religious feelings have formed an integral part of the lives of the men and women of the south of the Island. Religious worship has always had a place in the celebration of solemn, festive or tragic events. The varied ways in which religion is lived can be seen in the places of worship scattered all over the lsland. The Catholic Church also played a leading role in the conquest and settlement ofTenerife. The creation of villages and towns entailed the construction of small churches too, which became the place of worship for the neighbourhood and centres of ecclesiastical administration. The foundation of parishes in the south west of the island dates back to the 16th century, with Vilaflor and Adeje being the first to be created. Throughout the ] 7th century, all the parish chur-

OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Places of workship

Church of San Roque. VILAFLOR

ches were built in a1lthe settlements that, over time, were to become the main centres of the eight municipal boroughs that make up the district today. The eight existing parish churches are places of worship, but they also hold a cultural heritage in which architecture, sculpture, painting and metalwork are an expression of religious art with a history of over five hundred years. The construction of chapels to

promote the worship of this or that saint or virgin, strengthened social cohesion among the sma1l groups of people that lived in the scattered villages and settlements. Nowadays, these

places are often the focal point for local fiestas or pilgrimages that are an expression of local customs and traditions, which, in many cases, tell tales or beliefs that are hundreds of years old. 57

Discover the SOUTH

TRACES OF THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Places of workship

------------------------------~ ". -,

\ .

Seo de sanu,sj

.... •••••••Beo de "'~"

~ ......./1

(.... f

Seo de Erques

(If.~\

±.

+ •

*.eT

ARONA

~AN MIGUEL \....

•

\ •..•..•LOS ABRIGOS

or small church

.Brother Pedro's Cave

58 Discover

the SOUTH

;:•..,. .\ "', ..... SeodelRlo

.::.;. Beo de 1, Orchlll,

Seo del Re

EL NUEVO

.!!PORIS •

-,\ ...\

•••.••••.•••.••••• Beo. de 1, Hlguer,

Play. de Lar Era.

.•. Beo d.leor

Seo de Le CI.n",

•••

Hermitage

\............

GRANA~:~LAe~±

1"/

Convent or monastery

U" \.

LAS Vk~.AS~

..••.

.ARICO

.-. \.8.

T..f.. \.....

.)re ./;'

ARICO EL VIEJO. • ... VILLA DE ARICO

IJ. ~ILAFLOR

8 Parish church

~ ' ::::

\\,

·, ff 8

u Linde

•••••••..• !•••

DE ABONA

":.

VISIT TO BROTHER

GRANADILLA

PEDRO'S CAVE Places af warkship

CH RCOELP~O SAN MIGUEL

Near the road from Los Abrigos to El Medano, on the Granadilla de Abona coast (TF-618) is the Cave of Brother Pedro. This is a destination for

:"",_ \"Bco. de la Higuera

Bcqt de La Orchilla

•.•.•..••.•.•.•.

"•.

•.•..•,

pilgrims from all over the island. Popular tradition in Tenerife over the last few decades has con verted the Cave of Brother Pedro into a destination for pilgrims trorn all over the island, with ayer one hundred peaple visiting the site every day. andoon San Pedro's Day. it attracts

-'-

¿LA HOYA

--"''''''

Montaña Pelada

thausands of peaple.

Aeropuerto Tenerife Sur ~

PI aya de los Abrigos •

-a-

Broiher Pedro's Cave 59

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Playa de la Tejita

Brother Pedro 's Cave Access track

Playa del Médano

Montaña Roja Punta Roja Access: Tf.618

MUSEUM

RELlGIOUS ART -------Places 01 workshlp

fThe Franciscan Convent founded by the first Marquis of Adeje in 1679,was restored in 1991 and opened to the public as a Museum of Religious Art in 1995. The main nave of this former convent turned museum, holds 17th century Gobelin tapestries 18th century paintings from the Valencia School, coloured wood carvings from the same period, 15th and 16th century Muslim style church clotbing and a varied sample of religious silver and gold work.

Playa del Bobo SAN EUGENIO

LAS AMERICAS Playa de Los Cristianos

Interior

and close up of the Museum

of Religious

Art. ADEJE

Museum 01R,'~¡ous Art

Access: Tf..47 Adeje Town centre

The secrets of nature

T HE COLOURS OF THE SOUTH, A GEOLOGICAL MOSAIC

• A JOURNEY

AROUNO THE

VOLCANOES OF THE OISTRICT

• PROTECTED AREAS

• STAR GAZING

• A BIRO'S

EYE VIEW (The tale 01 the territory)

These monuments that have unquestionably been tried and tested by fire, as if they were in a chemistry laboratory, our islands, corroborated by the six or seven volcanoes that, over the last three centuries have, once again, flayed us, lead us to the simple conclusion that they were the main driving force that transformed the ancient land of this Atlantic sea, reducing it to the islands that are now found in it, like fragments from its ruins.

â&#x20AC;˘

JosĂŠ de Viera y C1avijo. 1770

If we add to this the volcanic origin of the area, it should not wonder that the natural environment surprises us at every turn, providing us with surprises that can only be corroborated by experience of spending time in that place.

THE SECRETS OF NATURE

and windy in some places and calm, damp, peaceful and paradoxical in others. Like a well fitting belt around the island's waist, the coast is home lo plant life. Birds, both local and migrating, cross the skies and nest in the ravines and cliffs, whilst the invertebrates, smalllizards that are the

Canary Island Golden Rod

islands, and the Canary Islands in particular, house a large proportion of the World's natural wealth. Their climatic, geological, scenic, zoological and botanical peculiarities, both individually and as a whole, constitute a world-wide heritage, whose peculiarities and fragile nature require protection. Flora and fauna have adopted ways of life that are perfectly

adapted to the characteristics and the tough conditions imposed by the terrain, the climate, the soils and the presence of the sea. However, contrary to what one might expect in these peculiar and adverse conditions, from the coast line, through the foothills and up to the high mountain peaks, a varied range of plants and animals share this territory that is basically dry

Lower course. Barranco de Erques. GUĂA DE ISORA

descendants of other, larger ones, and other lesser species like beetles, snails, ants, silverfish and centipedes roam the island f100r. All these forms of life constitute an ecosystem that is submitted lo pressure from mankind, who also roams, lives and adapts lo the territory

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE

islets of life. In there, sheltered in their candelabra-shaped arms that grow to a height of 3 metres and a diameter of 6 or 7 metres, we can find Goat's Beard and Canary Madder wrapped around the arms of the spurge. When the spurge dies, insects like the long-horned spurge beetle, butterflies and others will continue their lives in the tough conditions of the south. 'JYpical ezample 01 plants adapted lo Ihe conditions 01 Ihe Soulh

Among coasts, ravines, old volcanoes and mountains can be found an infinity of endemic species, that is species that can be found no-where else on Earth. If we work up from the coast to

the mountain peaks, the South West of the island reveals plants that have evolved to resist many hours of sunlight, poor soils and winds that are sometimes heavily laden with drops of saline moisture along the

coastal strip. Above the coast, a steppe land of shrubs reveals a world of spurges. Spurges are to be found in areas of shallow soil, preferably crests and where they provide shelter for other species within their shrubs, like

64 Discover

the SOUTH

THE SECRETS OF NATURE

Among the forest litter and the stones of the South, one can often find a hidden lizard, mouse, rabbit, Algerian hedgehog, shrew, etc. The air is the platform used by kestrels that nest on the walls of the ravines, to spot lizards, beetles and maybe a mouse to feed on. Along with the kestrels, the indisputable kings of the local skies, there are shrikes, blackbirds, canaries, etc. In the pine forest, a wide variety of spiders and beetles live under the bark of the trees, avoiding the acidity of the soil caused by the pine cones. Wood beetles bore labyrinths into the dead tree trunks, while the lavae of other small invertebrates serve as food for them. There is one of these lavae that is a metallic blue colour. Both butterflies and moths will share the skies with the flies that are attracted by the smell of mushrooms, to

be found in abundance in the pine forests. The blue chaffinch, a bird that is closely associated with the pine forest, basically feeds on pine seeds, whereas the woodpecker pecks the bark in search of insects. You can also find blue tits. In the mountain tops of the

South, a large mammal introduced by man, the mouflon, can find refuge from its only predator. In the highlands, the bee buzzes from flower to flower in spring, in order to make a highly appreciated and scarce honey, only found here in the district.

Sombrero de Chasna. VILAFLOR 65

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE The colouts oi the sauth: a gealagieal masaie

THE COLOURS OF THE SOUTH: A GEOLOGICAL MOSAIC

The superimposition of volcanic eruptions every few thousand years, explains the construction of the island. The first material formed the three rocky extremes of Punta de Anaga, Punta de Teno and Adeje. Later on, the dorsal ridge would appear and the

First massifs that emerged from the Ocean

..•• Teide - Pico Viejo Composite Vo\canic Cone + \Vell conserved conical edifices •....• Historie vo\canoes (with dates) and the extension of their lava flows

great central edifice of the island would be formed and destroyed. The peak of this edifice, when it collapsed, formed the great Circus of the Cañadas del Teide, one of the most impressive calderas on Earth. Just half a million years ago, the gianl complex of Pico Viejo and Pico del Teide were formed, as the highest mountain in Spain. Eruptions have continued from Guanche times to the present day. ExtMld

from "The

Vicente

Araña,

votcanoes

Centres of eruptions and the material spewed out less than half a million year ago

of the Canary

Juan Carlos

lstands" Carracedo, Madrid

1978

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the SOUTH

THE SECRETS OF NATURE The colours of the south: a geological mosaic

enerife started to form 16 million years ago. Volcanic activity pushed the three tips of the island; Anaga in the north east, Teno in the north west and Adeje in the south west, up from the Ocean bed to the surface. Large masses of magma emerged, forming the oldest mountains on the Island. El Roque del Conde, in the south west, was formed by these events. Known as Ichisagua by the aboriginal inhabitants, the Roque was an island in the middle of the waters. Its summit, a plateau, is due to its peculiar formation: continuous volcanic eruptions accumulated layer upon thin layer of basalt magma that, with the action of erosion, gave way to this peculiar piece of the southern landscape.

Roque de lama.

SAN

MIGUEL DE

ABONA

Badlands and Roque del Conde in the background.

ADEJE

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE The ealaurs af the sauth: a gealagieal masaie

3.5 million years ago, volcanic activity started again with a vengeance. This was an intermediate stage of explosive and violent eruptions in which burning clouds of gasses, dust and molten

Montaña de Tejina, in the borough of Guia de Isora, is a representative of this age. Its eye-ca tching Iight brown colour reveals its origin and composition: basically

Montaña de Tejina. GUíA DE lSORA

Spectacular balance between two ages, Puzzolana and recent laya

rock devastated everything in their path. Pumice and rough lava flows filled in the remaining spaces between the three original rack extremes of the Island, which has lead this material to be known as "filling material".

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pumice and hardpan. Although the volcanic nature of the hardpan is characterised by being extremely explosive and by causing the collapse of volcanic canes, this has not happened to this atural Monument of over three

THE SECRETS OF NATURE The eolours of the south: a geologieal mosaie

prickly pear or spurge sown by nature, have managed to survive. Finally, five hundred years ago, after the Europeans had started to conquer the Island, the eruptions continued, providing the more modern material of the island territory, within historie times. These eruptions carne to an end in 1909 with the eruption of El Chinyero, in Santiago del Teide.

Voleanie landscape.

thousand metres high. After a brief res pite, the eruptions started again about five hundred thousand years ago,

providing the island with more recent telluric material. These helped to form the landscapes of badlands; rivers of lava that

formed peculiar stone beds on cooling, where only the roots of the odd almond tree planted by man, or the odd pine tree,

Lava in SANTIAGO

DEL TEIDE

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE The colours of the south: a geological mosaic

You do not have to be an expert geologist to discover this geological genesis that we have just described, at a glance. The colours and textures of the earth will be our guide and will reveal the natural history of the district, enabling us to discover what period the part of the landscape we are looking at belongs to. For example, the tall basalt rocks, denuded of any soil, standing-tall and eraded are elements that belong to the oldest geological periodo The mountains of pumice, brown in colour and granular in texture, are typically from an intermediate period of eruptions. The unmistakeable texture of the badlands, with their dark brown colour, indicate an area that first appeared in the more recent pre-history of the island. If we look closely at the badlands, we will see that

View from La Centinela.

SAN MIGUEL DE ABONA

there are abundant stains of lichens that have colonised and lightened the rack over the centuries.

Above them, we can see how another sea of lava stands out, a more intense black in colour, but just as solid, sharp and

70 Discover the SOUTH

impassable. This is volcanic material that carne from the historie period of the Island, after the Spanish conquest.

THE SECRETS OF NATURE A journey around the volcanoes of the district

A JOUR EY AROUND THE VOLCA

OES OF

THE DISTRICT

.....

....... ..........\.

....

'.. 8codeuUnde

<.~

de LIt Ens

...• &0 de Icor

... At the moment when it exploded, we had some donkeys laden with pine branches, and they ran away like mad things, and we didn't see them again for three days, they found them on Las Flores mountain, and the load full of black sand, of which there must have been about seven kilos. Extract

from the description glven by Jose Hernandez Lorenzo, who witnessed the beginning of the 1909 cruption

•

....\

•

-,....f!CodeL.lCíSnerI

....

&odel~~.

~·Roule

PORIS DE ABONA

Dislrict rood

\""' ..... .......

Aeeesses lo the eoosl Inhobiled

settlemenls LOS ABRIGOS

At:, .

Rovines

Pt.Y'

~yldt",Glllttu

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE A journey around the volcanoes of the district

y selecting some of the routes from the road network, we can discover the volcanic wealth of the district. . From Los Cristianos, we will climb up towards Santiago del Teide. Along the route, we will go through the towns of Adeje and Guia de Isora, and some tiny settlements like Tejina de Guia, Chíguergue, Chio, Arguayo and Las Manchas. From Santiago del Teide, we will climb up to Las Cañadas along the Chio road, having passed through Tamaimo. We will go through the Corona Forestal Nature Park and the Chninyero Special Nature Reserve, to see the easternmost part of Las Cañadas. Later, we will come down through Boca Tauce, Vilaflor, Trevejos and Arona to finish the journey at La Centinela Lookout point, next to the Roque de lama atural Monument in San Miguel.

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE A journey around the volcanoes of the district

The oldest part of the landscape is to be seen between Arona and Adeje, with the aforementioned and impressive Roque del Conde, whose rugged slopes seem to tell their own surprising tale.

Panoramic view 01 the coastal platíorm beyond Roque de lama. SAN MtGUEL DE ABONA

Along the road to Guia de Isora, we will see how Montaña de Tejina seems to grow before our very eyes, becoming more and more outstanding as the predominant colours become

lighter and lighter, a sign that these lands belong to an intermediate stage on our own private scale of colours of the south. The climb up towards Vera de

Erues offers wonderful views of Montaña de Tejina, and may even allow us to catch a glimpse of its chao tic and violent origino Leaving the village ofTejina de Guia behind, new colours change

the landscape. As we continue, the fields gradually lose vegetation and take on darker and darker tones.

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE A journev around the volcanoes of the district

As we approach Santiago del Teide, the landscape gradually becomes barer of vegetation. We have reached the lava flows belonging to the more recent periods of prehistorie volcanic activity. In the valley of Santiago del Teide, the brown and green colours bear witness to a land that is bountiful in vegetation. In winter, it will be dotted with the white colours of the almond blossom. Four tongues of black lava spill down the sides of the Bilma mountain towards the village of Las Manchas, going around it before continuing their deseen!. Their black colour stands out from the dark brown background of the earth and some splashes of green vegetation. These are the lava flows from El Chinyero, of the same material that lies below, which came from other recent, pre-historic eruptions that are now partially covered by the lavas of the 1909 eruption. Chinyero 74

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE A journey around the volcanoes of the district

Continuing on towards the summit, the impressive slab of Pico Viejo and Pico del Teide, along with the circus of mountains around them, create a

surprising set. Later on, we will descend towards Vilaflor, crossing one of the oldest forest of Canary Island pine trees on the island. In the forest, the

"Pino Gordo", or "Big Pine" of Vilaflor is an example of the extraordinary dimensions that pine trees can attain when they are left to grow.

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Pico Teide

THE SECRETS OF NATURE A journey around the volcanoes of the district

Fram Vilaflor, we will continue to descend towards the town of Arana, going thraugh the settlement ofTrevejos. After passing

thraugh, we have to pay attention to what the old abandoned farrning terraces have to tell uso Finally, we will end our journey at

Volcano field from La Centinela lookout point. SAN MIGUEL

the Natural Monument of Roque de lama. Opposite the Roque, there is La Centinela Lookout point, an indis-

ABONA

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creet window that will bring us c10ser to the more recent transformation of the lands of the south. The vo1cano field of the South.

THE SECRETS OF NATURE

Protected areas

PROTECTED AREAS

Islands are considered a special case from the point of view of conservation and sustainable development. Taken individually, they are a sanctuary for endemic species and unique landscapes. An open window on the evolution of knowledge. Taken as a whole, they shelter most 01 the world's terrestrial and marine biodiversity, distributed over a quarter of the planet's surface. World

lsland

Conference.

Istand

2000

Sidly 1992 INSULA

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE Protected areas

entire sector also has an exceptional cultural value, beca use of its archaeological importance. Apart from the wormwood, which is endemic to Tenerife and Gran Canaria. the Malpais de la Rasca also has an exceptional sample of vegetation that has adapted to conditions of acute acidity, including magnificent spurges. The birds that inhabit this area include shrikes and the Calandra lark. Down on the coast, we find the stone curlew and other birds that feed in the sandy and muddy zones.

Broom scrub in the highlands. The colourful bugloss stand out

he island ofTenerife, rising up to an altitude of over 3,700 metres, contains an enormous variety of ecosystems, a rich range of landscapes and sites where protection plays an important part as a means of conserving this very special heritage. The etwork of Protected

Natural Areas is a refuge for these, sometimes little known natural assets. Tenerife holds a special place in this aspect, as almost 33% of the protected land in the Canary Islands is to be found on the Island. Each of these places is interesting for a specific reason. We have places that are interesting beca use they

are the habitats of protected plant species, like Malpais de Rasca, in Arona, where the different species of spurges live in an environment dominated by salt. El Malpais de La Rasca has endangered species of both plants and animals, Iike the Canary wormwood, which has its largest populations here. The

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE

Protected areas that provided the materials of pumice and hardpan, light and of striking forms. It is a real representative of the Southern landscape, where these rocks

are abundant. Without wishing to tire readers, there are many other sites of natural interest in the district, apart from those already mentioned. We mention

below one from each borough of the district.

Paraglider over the Malpais de Rasca. ARaNA

Monta単a Roja in Granadilla, is the only sandy ecosystem with natural dunes on the Island. Los Desrriscaderos, also in Granadilla de Abona, is a typical ravine of the southern landscape, the product of explosive and violent eruptions

Monta単a Roja Special Nature Reserve. GRANADtLLA

DE ABONA

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE

Protected areas

In Tabaibal del Poris, in Arico, the mouths of the gullies have formed tiny gravel beaches, from where you can see the spurge plants, which survive the high salinity of the coast. Old farming terraces, the remains of bygone farming activity, close the cycle of use of this pratected area. Also in Arico, the volcanic cone of Monta単a de La Centinela provides us with a magnificent view of the district. In Arana, Monta単a Guaza, apart frorn its undoubted scenic and geological value, shelters a large number of sub-fossil remains of large, now extinct lizards. On the edges of the cliffs, there are remains of old stone quarries that were worked up until the 19th century. Between the boraughs of Arana and San Miguel, Roque de Jama is all that remains of an ancient mountain in an advanced sta te

of erasion. This is the largest of all of those to be seen in the San Lorenzo Valley, and you can see a peculiar structure on its eastern half that is reminiscent of an onion skin.

Specimen of Canary Jsland Pine.

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE Protected areas

La Montaña Amarilla, on the coast of San Miguel de Abona is part of a line of volcanoes, with a large crater that was originally a submarine volcano that reached the surface in the midst of mighty explosions of magma

PROFILE OF

and steaming sea water. The presence of a fossil dune on the coastal side makes it especially interesting. Between Vilaflor de Chasna and Granadilla lies Montaña Colorada.

COASTAL VEGETATIO

THE

SPURGE SCRUB

On its slopes, we can find fields of volcanic cinders, arranged in tenaces, mainly for growing potatoes. Montaña Pelada, in Granadilla de Abona, stands out in the landscape due to its flat, circular formo Montaña

VINES

PINE FOREST

Ifara and Montaña de Los Riscos are two singular cones that rise up to a height of some three hundred metres over the light coloured fields of the South.

BROOM SCRUB

TEIDE VIOLET

DISTRICT VEGE· TATION

The vegetation varies from the coast up lo the mountains, adapling to the specific conditions of the area al all limes

4.000 3.500 3.000 2.500 2.000

BANANAS

LSOO

1.000 500 O

WScnmANOS 81

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE Protected areas

In Adeje, in Barranco del

Infierno, you can find one of the few permanent water courses in the Canary Islands. Rain water runs along its deep, damp bed in winter and snows from the highland thaws in spring. During the rest of the year, there is permanent water in most of the water course thanks to the springs along the walls of this colossal ravine. These conditions support a rich and varied wealth of native flora. El Chinyero, in Santiago del Teide, offers us the chance to experience an area associated with the lava flows of 1909, the most recent volcanic activity on the Island. These flows are dotted with lichens. The different, predominantly black, colours of the lavas known as badlands, is due to the fact that the lichens have colonised the new surfaces. We can also find pines, part of the re-forestry

programmes that have sometimes mixed Canary Island pines with other species.

The rare species to be found in this area include some singular species of invertebrates.

View 01 La Gomera from the highlands 01 the south west ofTenerile

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the SOUTH

THE SECRETS OF NATURE

Protected areas Isora, is another landmark on the south western landscape. There is a small church on the summit of this ravine-flanked mountain, and the beautiful settlement of Las Fuentes, abandoned by its

inhabitants in 1970,just outside of the protected area. Between the boroughs of Adeje and Vilaflor is Ifonche. This is a valuable rurallandscape with scattered settlements and many

beautiful and harmonious terraces, where farming mixes with natural redoubts like the pine forest, all overshadowed by Roque de Imoque in the background.

Los Gigantes diffs

La Caldera del Rey, in Adeje, is a giant crater that is shallow but with a large diameter. Artificially open to the south, it contains extensive agriculturallands. Monta単a Tejina, in Guia de 83 Discover [he SOUTH

THE SECRETS OF NATURE

Protected areas Barranco de Erques ravine, on the border between Adeje and Guia de Isora, runs down through two geological ages between the mountain tops and the coast. Scattered houses in Vera de Erques and extensive pine forests towards the Corona Forestal Nature Park, sum up the diversity to be found between the ancient lands to the north of the ravine and the new ones to the south, divided by this great gorge fuI! of balos and spurges. Final!y, the !sorana cliffs, between the boroughs of Adeje and Guia de Isora, constitute an exceptional refuge for birds like Bulwer's petrel and little shearwater to nest. A coastal area, about three kilometres long, spreads out on either side of the mouth of the Erques ravine, whose bluffs reach a height of thirty metres at some points. Barranco de Erques, separating

ADEJE

from GUĂA

ISORA

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the SOUTH

THE SECRETS OF NATURE

Protected areas Barranco de Erques ravine, on the border between Adeje and Guia de Isora, runs down through two geological ages between the mountain tops and the coast. Scattered houses in Vera de Erques and extensive pine forests towards the Corona Forestal Nature Park, sum up the diversity to be found between the ancient lands to the north of the ravine and the new ones to the south, divided by this great gorge fuI! of balos and spurges. Final!y, the Isorana cliffs, between the boroughs of Adeje and Guia de Isora, constitute an exceptional refuge for birds like Bulwer's petrel and little shearwater to nest. A coastal area, about three kilometres long, spreads out on either side of the mouth of the Erques ravine, whose bluffs reach a height of thirty metres at some points. Barranco de Erques, separating

ADEJE

from GUĂA

ISORA

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE

Protected areas Barranco de Erques ravine, on the border between Adeje and Guia de Isora, runs down through two geological ages between the mountain tops and the coast. Scattered houses in Vera de Erques and extensive pine forests towards the Corona Forestal ature Park, sum up the diversity to be found between the ancient lands to the north of the ravine and the new ones to the south, divided by this great gorge full of balos and spurges. Finally, the Isorana cliffs, between the boroughs of Adeje and Guia de Isora, constitute an exceptional refuge for birds like Bulwer's petrel and little shearwater to nest. A coastal area, about three kilometres long, spreads out on either side of the mouth of the Erques ravine, whose bluffs reach a height of thirty me tres at some points. Barranco de Erques, separating

ADEJE

from GUlA DE ISORA

84 Discover the SOUTH

THE SECRETS OF NATURE

Protected areas

4 1 CAÑADAS DEL TEIDE

ACANTILADOS

DE ISORANA

TABA/BAL

Natianal Park

Nature Park

Rural Park

Special Nature Reserve

Protecled Landscape

Natural Monument

Site of Scientific Interest

MONTAÑA DE LA CENTINELA

LA CALETA

~RRANCOI DELlNFIERNO

DEL!1 _

LOS DERRISCADEROS

ROQUE DE JAMA MONTAÑA DE IFARA

MONTAÑA PELADA

MONTAÑA DE GUAZA MONTAÑA ROJA MALPAIS DE RASCA

J 85 Discover the SOUTH

VISIT TO THE CHINYERO

Protected areas

SANTIAGO DEL TEIDE fAvisit to the Chinyero Special Nature Reserve will enable us to contemplate the results of the most recent eruption, which occurred in 1909. It is not far from the volcano of Arenas Negras, which buried the town of Garachico in 1706. El Chinyero and its field of lapillus (volcanic cinders) is a spectacle of colours that change as the day wear on. Lichens grow in a place that has been burned by the volcano's fire. They add

a touch of colour to the monotony of the predominant dark colours of the badlands and show that life is starting once again. Lush pine forests are to be seen around the volcano, with some ancient and magnificent specimens of Canary Island pine. In winter, the snow-capped peaks ofTeide and Pico Viejo complete the scene.

View of Teide and Pico Viejo from El Chinyero 87

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.» Path Specíal Nature ReSeNe

ft Q)

Access: TF-735 Route:6Km Duratíon: 3 hours

BARRANCO DEL INFIERNO

Protected areas

me ravines of the south of the island endose a different, and sometimes unknown world. The environmental conditions in these deep furrows in the surface of the lsland. meticulously sculpted by erosion and major geological events, have permitted the development of surprising species and landscapes within. The Barranco del Infierno is a magnificent example of this other, inner world. Water

l ¡....

shelters used since aboriginal times, and patiently made irrigation channels and ditches that have made it possible to irrigate the thirsty lands of Adeje for centuries.

¡" i

..1

eTAUCHO

{SCO. del Rey

/Llanos de Trevejo o'

¡ s'

.............•. ~

courses run along the bed of the ravine, which are generated by rain in winter and by the thaws of the snows form the high mountain areas ol Teide in spring. For the rest oí the year, there is water along most of the course of the ravine thanks to the springs that emerge from its impressive walls. There is a multitude of different environments to be found in just three kilometres. Leaving behind the arid kingdom with its strange vegetation. we travel through gallery copses into a progressively more humid zone that culminates in a beautiful waterfall. This is a place where the work of the water has revealed the geological secrets of the Island. A visit to the ravine will also enable us to spot old refuges and

ftlFONCHE

\ o'

j:' "

t ;

VALLE SAN LORENZO

'" Access: Acleje town centre i't (Casa Fuerte) Branch of the path leading to the Settlement of La Quinta

_ Waterfall. Barranco dellnfiemo.

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ADEJE

Special Nature ReseNe

Route:3 Km

C9 Duration: 2 hours

VISIT TO MALPAís DE RASCA Protected areas

fE!Rasca Lighthouse

rises imposingly like a guardia n of one of the most singular natural areas of the Tenerife coast. The badlands spread out around it, a land that has been tormented by recent lavas, with volcanic cones emerging above the surface that shelter an exceptional sample of the curious vegetation of these environments. Here, you can see magnificent specimens of spurges like the cactus spurge. The former inhabitants of the island ha ve also

left a subtle track here. Along a spectacular coastline broken by black lava, we can see small hollows where they made gofio (toasted flour) from the ice plant. Some of these hollows also indicate that salt may have been produced in them, suggesting the possibility of Carthaginian enclaves in these mysterious lands. The shallow coves, protected by arms of lava, were the sites of the so-called pens, where the Guanches practised a curious form of fishing.

Montaña de Guaza laya de La Arenit Urb. Palm-Mar

ft LAS GALL, rAS

Punta de Rasca

Arial view of Malpais de Rasca 89

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Faro de Rasca Path

Lighthouse

Specíal Nature Reserve

Playa de las Galletas Access: Urb. Palm-Mar Route:8km

cg Duratíon: 3 hours

LUNA LANDSCAPE

Protected areas

r;; in the Corona Forestal

ature Park, you will find one of the most suggestive landscapes of the Island. The whimsical forms of the "lunar

landscape" are the results of the most explosive volcanic activity to be suffered by Tenerife, which led to the creation of the great circus of Las Cañadas del Teide. These eruptions generated pumice. a pale-coloured and very light volcanic material. which, as it erodes, tUTOS into gravity-defying natural sculptures The excursion to the Lunar Landscape will also allow us to enjoy the forests of these highlands. This is a place that is predominated by pine forests, along with other plant species like white broom, Teide broom, sticky broom and gum. One exceptionally beautiful plant, the bugloss, offers a peculiar counterpoint in May, when the plant blossoms. transforming it into a jewel of floristic originality. Ir we look carefully. we may see a kestrel. a blue chaffinch, or even a sparrow hawk.

VALLE SAN LORENZO

EL ROQUE Path Forest track (LOMOGORDO)

CHARCO EL PINO SAN MIGUEL

Access: Urb. Palm-Mar Route: 6 km

Campsíte MADRE DEL AGUA Whimsicat puzzolana Lunar Landscape.

GRANADILLA DE ABONA

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Nature Park

cg Duratíon: 2.30 hours

THE SECRETS OF NATURE Star gazing

STAR GAZING

)

Vilaflor, immersed in a small valley is protected from the winds and, as it is south Iacing, if provides excellent air quality. making it ideal for astronomers. German

Koberger.

Vilanor

1999

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE

Star gazing

Canaries is one of the few places in the world with a Protection of the Skies Act

nthe Island, the sea of clouds is situated between eight hundred and twelve hundred metres above sea leve!. This means that above this altitude, the sky is clear. Furthermore, the light pollution from the large urban areas, mainly located on the coast, is attenuated at these altitudes. If

we add to this the purity of the mountain air, we have the key to the secret of the great spectacle of the night sky. In Iza単a, within the boundaries of the Las Ca単adas del Teide National Park, we can find one of the astronomy observatories of the Canary Island Institute of Astrophysics, which, along with

the observatory of Roque de Los Muchachos, on the Island of La Palma, make up one of the most important European observatories in the northern hemisphere. From the mountain tops, and without any special equipment, we can discover a small piece of the universe that scientists are unravelling night

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after night. When night falls, the mountain top, a natural balcony overlooking the landscapes of the south, becomes a Balcony for Star Gazing. The lookout points in the mountains, dotted along the roads, become little observatories for star gazing. One by one, the stars begin to appear on the opposite side of the sky from the sunset, like tiny dots of light. The heavens, like a concentric sphere around the Earth, have their most privileged observation platform in the northern hemisphere here, at a spot marked by the sign of Cancer. When the evening light finally disappears and the darkness is total, the mountain skies start to reveal ancestral secrets and the ancient legends that have given their names to the constellations will, in the course of the night, become a gigantic atlas of mythology that will

THE SECRETS OF NATURE

Star gazing

Unlike for sunbathing or going to the beach, the summer is not the best season for observing the sky, and certainly not for Astronomic or astro-photo-

graphic observation, but, if we consider that the mountain winters are freezing cold and that we only want to look at the stars to delight our spirits,

rather than for scientific purposes, then summer is a good time to go up to the mountain tops; to the Balcony for Star Gazing.

transport us from our everyday world into the profound abyss of the infinite, unknown and fascinating cosmos. 93

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE Star gazing

In the early summer, sunsets are

long drawn-out affairs. On the 21 June, there is hardly full night in the northern hemisphere. In the month of

August, and even more so in September, we can enjoy a reasonable period of night time for observing the stars. In the firmĂĄrnent, we will see how

Aerial view01 the observatories in IzaĂąa. 94

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Arthur crosses the evening Iight. Later, Vega appears, along with Altair, some of the stars belonging to the constel!ation of Ursa Major, the Pole Star, etc.

THE SECRETS OF NATURE

Star gazing

In winter, with longer nights and an earlier sunset, we will be struck by a dozen splendid stars. With binoculars, we will see a large number of nebula and groups of stars that will enable us to travel back to the beginning of time, back to when the universe was a moment of the Creation. In the south, Orion will surprise us as a rectangle with three brilliant and perfectly aligned stars hanging off it; the Three Sisters. The mythological giant that fights the Bull in eternity will give us the night's welcome. Syrius, Aldebaran, Tethelgeuse and Rigel are recognisable, which will fill us with happiness, joy and, of course, peace. The Pleiades, like sequins from a distant party of the Gods, will attract our attention, as we only see them shine if we do not look directly at them. If we do, the magic of their twinkling

disappears. At midnight, if the moon is not full, we will be amazed by the beauty of the sky.The full moon is not the best time for observing the stars, as its light will prevent us from distinguishing the less brilliant stars. When the moon is waxing, things are better, but when it is on the wane is when we can really enjoy dark nights that are ideal for watching the infinity of stars in the heavens. In these conditions, sitting comfortably on a blanket or a mattress, sheltered from the headlights of the cars, and maybe with the aid of some simple binoculars, we are ready for the unforgettable experience of the star-studded night skies, a lasting memory of our stay in the south west ofTenerife. If we are looking for the Zodiac, the south will also be our best ally.The planets of the Zodiac belt that are visible to 95

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE

Star gazing

the naked eye will be between the east and the west of the sky above the southern horizon. They can be distinguished from the stars beca use they do not twinkle, remaining as bright points that move slowly along an el!iptical trajectory, so their movements do not coincide with the path of the stars. But if we want to see the ful! magnificence of the starstudded sky of the South of Tenerife, al! we have to do is to look at the sky in August or September, around midnight on a moonless night, and we will discover a large, pale band crossing the heavens. It is a drop of milk that has spilt from Juno's breast whilst she was feeding Hercules, and that is where we are, along with an infinity of suns and planets. It is the Milky Way, which we form part of, that gives us a chance to see just how small we are, with

the naked eye. Moonlit nights are not the best time for observing other stars, but the moon itself, can act as the perfect excuse for spending a long while gazing at the sky. Everyone sees the Moon in a different way. Five people looking at the Moon will prabably describe five different planets, because we alllook with our eyes, but we often see with our imagination. What we can see, whether the moon is waxing or waning, is a series of grey marks that remind us vaguely of ahuman face. The effect is lost to a certain extent if we use binoculars, but we can see the relief of the Moon's surface with its areas of light and shade. We can see large areas of grey, which were cal!ed seas by the first astronomers. We can see the relief of the mountain chains. With a full moon, we will only see a

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dazzling white disc with al! details being impossible to distinguish.

THE SECRETS OF NATURE A bird's eye view

BIRD'S

EYE VIEW

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AR/CO EL NUEVO •

PORIS DE ABONA

This is the story of three brothers: the kestrels Abisero, Embiscado and Picorota, born in an easlern spot to the northwest of the great Guaza mountain, who. one day. had lo leave the kingdom of their parenls in search of their own territory. E. Barquín.

ABISERO

EMBISCADO

PICOROTA

2001

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE A bird's eye view

search of food and learned to survrve,

hen Abisero left the home of his parents, he flew over Guaza and carne down over the lands of the San Lorenzo Valley.The valley was made of sand and lava, dotted with volcanoes. Abisero flew in

At the bottom of the Valley, towards the head, he saw an enormous wall, the remains of an old, eroded massif: the Roque de Jama. This was a suitable place for kestrels. Abisero got this far only to find that this magnificent place was already occupied. From there, he headed east, flying over some towns. San Miguel, with its farmlands, looked like a great mosaic of the green ton es of potato crops, which used to be the pride of the borough. This was a region of mighty volcanoes and Monta単a Gorda, . the largest in the lowlands of Tenerife, in Granadilla, stood out beca use of its appearance and the perfection of its contours. A bird's eye view showed up the details from a height of fifty metres, including the figs on

some wild fig trees. Abisero returned to Roque de Jama and had a look at the crags of La Orchilla ravine, cut into clear, solid rock. Suddenly, he saw a step there, like a wave of earth breaking over the

100 Discover the SOUTH

broad coastal plain. These were the lands of La Escalona, and there, in a pine, one of many in the area, he spent his first night as an adult bird.

THE SECRETS Of NATURE A bird's eye view

At dawn, in the first rays of light, Abisero continued his explorations, flying over crags and almond trees, smoothwalled ravines and great isolated pine trees that covered the ground between Granadilla and Vilaflor, farmlands of volcanic cinders. Abisero spotted El Salto, one of those scattered little hamlets that make up the necklace of Granadilla. With the grace of the birds, he soared through the air to the coast and into the wild lands of the Aricos. These lands offered little food for a kestrel. Dry and windy, Abisero spotted hills and plains covered with shrubs; gums and thyme, entering the great ravines of the south west, already inhabited by other kestrels who jealously guarded the piece of the kingdom that fortune had assigned them. Abisero carefully stalked

Almond blossom

Iizards, beetles and an occasional mouse, a rare titbit of meat that was considered a prize by the kestrels of the area. On the coast, he found spurges; further up copses of gums and scattered pine trees. Near Fasnia, he saw a pine forest that looked like it had been replanted, and high up in the mountains, scattered brooms and other alpine shrubs. Higher up, there was only the Teide brooms. 101

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE A bird's eye view

Pigeon

that encounter, Abisero flew up the gorge towards the mountain tops and, at the head of the gorge, he looked down into Las CaĂąadas del Teide. The landscape was amazing. Aman from the Moon would have felt at home. It is strange to think that the "Lunar Landscape" got its name before man knew what

the moon's surface was like. Abisero flew back down the ravine. The floor seemed to be covered in willows from the head to the town, and at that moment, they were covered in leaves, but without the flowers and cottony seeds that are carried on the wind in spring and summer.

Abisero had several confrontations with his fellow kestrels. The most important one was with a female that lived in an enormous cave in the El Rio ravine. This is a colossal ravine that starts at over 2,000 metres, up in the mountain tops. That cave in El Rio ravine had been formed by a lava flow that must have lost its filling cinders. When Abisero arrived, the female, one third larger than he, was raising her chicks and she made a few flying passes at him, plucking some of his feathers while making shrill cries. After

La Gomera Ărom the mountain IOpS

102 Discover the SOUTH

THE SECRETS OF NATURE A bird's eye view

Abisero continued crossing ravines: Barranco del Azucar, Barranco de Guasiegre, Barranco de Piedra Bermeja, Barranco de Huchon, La Magdalena; Las Hiedras with its formidable waterfall and higher up, to the north east. the Barranco del Guincho, Los Sauces, Los Bueyes, Las Vigas, Los Cazadores, etc. Suddenly, near Barranco de El Bueno, Abisero found a tiny gully without a name. It was a relatively cool and moist place

for the south west, and especially for the Aricos. A hill of coloured stones and a small bare pine tree became the favourite lookout for the kestrel. From there he could feel how a breath of fresh air would come in the evenings from the north east and condense into clouds sometimes. This small surplus of moisture was the added treasure of that spot. You could say that Abisero, born on Monta単a de Guaza, had been lucky. That is what he seemed to

show, settled in his kingdom, looking far afield with his bright black eyes full of life. Embiscado was born with a slight sight defect that took him out to sea as soon as he left Monta単a de Guaza. When he realised his mistake, he carne back inland, seeing that the coast was made up of ton es, colours and textures dominated by the bright f1ashes of greenhouses and masses of grey and white stones that looked like crags that he did not recognise. Embiscado understood the natural spaces better, dividing them into the categories of stony ground with good low perching trees; lands with high, bushy trees that were not so practical; lands with those tough bugs, the beetles that formed part of his diet, and so on. Down on the coast, Embiscado f1ew north over a tangle of crags that were large enough to perch

on with dignity. But the place was full of ruthless competitors, continually on the look out, who had arrived before him. Embiscado f1ew over Cabo Blanco and saw that the houses did no! seem to be arranged in any particular order or pattern. This was not ideal territory for the kestrel. Ahead. there were some enormous crags. The first he carne across was El Roque del Conde. about 1,000 metres high, topped by a plateau, often hidden in c1ouds, where grain used to be grown.

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE

A bird's eye view

Pine tree and Kestrel

Embiscado flew east to Roque de Jama. Like Abisero, he was struck by this rock. Like paragliders, birds are attracted by the fantastic rising thermals of air that form to the east and slightly to the south. The fact that the Roque was already inhabited by other kestrels, led Embiscado to fly

on towards Tunez, with its fine walls. These walls, the remains of human activity that started back in the times of the Guanches, have given the landscape geometrical form and have improved the yield of the small patches of arable land. Embiscado headed for the mountains, reaching the lands of La Escalona, with its fine wines produced from the vines of the plains below Vilaflor and Trevejo, and then he turned off towards the Adeje Massif. The enormous crags of the region were like a magnet to Embiscado who, keen to discover, returned, once more to Vilaflor. On the flight up into the mountains, on one side of Ciruelita (or Cirg端elita) mountain a little white village in a beautiful valley. On the lower edge, in a dense pine forest, one could see the mouth of a great ravine that went right the way

up to the mountain tops. The majestic ravine, with its vertical walls and ledges, was covered with pine trees and cliffs. It was an impenetrable

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Lunar Landscape

place, populated by other kestrels, so Embiscado was forced to spend the night perched on a prickly pear.

THE SECRETS OF NATURE A bird's eye view

At dawn, he flew over the ridge of a conical rock: El Topo Negro. Embiscado followed the ridge up towards the highlands, in search of a place to establish his kingdom. It was difficult to fight the cold at these heights; at Roque del Encaje, he had to fluff out his feathers more than usual to keep warm through the night. Above this rock, there was a small plain where some lizards were soaking up the sun. Guided by his instinct, he satisfied his appetite with one of them before flying into the Ucanca Plain, where there was no more food to be found. Embiscado continued his flight to the edge of Las Ca単adas, flying past the enormous slab of Monta単a de Guajara, and then down through a lovely ravine until he reached a warmer plain. Here, there were pine trees, crags and

flatlands; everything he needed for a good life. But, as usual, it was someone else's territory. Embiscado flew on up to Sombrero de Chasna, flying over El Pinalito. With an altitude of 2,400 metres, this old dismantled volcano is reminiscent of an enormous cake, its walls

The Ucanca Plain in El Teide Naiional Park

Beetle

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THE SECRETS OF NATURE A bird's eye view

covered in pillars, where flocks of pigeons usually nest. Their chicks were the only prey to be hunted, as the adults are too big and heavy. But, even so, Embiscado's youth and lack of experience prevented him from making a kill to calm his hunger. El Sombrero was too high and cold, so he decided to fly back down to Vilaflor. This was how Embiscado found a quiet spot in a region crisscrossed by small, shallow and nameless gullies, next to Barranco Tragatrapos. A short trip from south to north was enough for Embiscado to gain enough experience to live in those lands of the south of Tenerife. Picorota left Guaza and went down to Barranco del Rey. She flew over it and carried on up to Roque del Conde. From the air, she saw how the Roque extended south west with two

giant pincers that made it look like a crab invading the coastal plains. Following the ravine, she f1ew by Ifonche, were the wind

Barranco del Agua. On the highest ridge, the signs led Picorota to think that the Massif of Adeje is very ancient; older than the

Roque del Conde

usually blows from the north west, from Arona. This is known locally as the Ifonche wind. lt is cool and moist, and is usually accompanied by clouds. The area around Ifonche is broken ground, full of rock pillars, steep ridges and ravines that feed into

volcanic peak. Flying up to the peak, she flew through the territory of the great Ichisagua, an aboriginalleader who ruled these mountainous, fertile lands with their abundant water supply. Up in the mountain peaks, she

106

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observed the heads of the ravines that can be seen from the coast. The one that stood out was the Erques ravine, the former boundary between the aboriginal kingdoms of Adeje and Daute, which rises in Boca de Tauce, on the very edge of Las Ca単adas. Hunters say that flocks of pigeons come into this ravine after feeding and drinking in La Gomera. The ravine looks straight out over the island of La Gomera and the pigeons that roost on Sombrero de Chasna could well form part of those flocks of pigeons. Picorota later explored the Barranco de Las Carreras, that, in parts, below the imposing Monta単a de Tejina, is a tangle of rocks. To the east of this mountain lies Las Fuentes, a village that was abandoned between 1950 and 1970. Picorota f1ew west. crossing

THE SECRETS OF NATURE

A bird's eye view

Pine trees and Teide bugloss in the south

other old villages: El Jaral, Aripe and Chirche. After these last villages, the terrain became unfavourable for settlement; it was more recent, volcanic, highly porous and criss-crossed by dry, shallow gullies. Chiguergue and Arguayo are the exception, as they are good places to live. Picorota flew up towards the mountain tops, reaching Narices del Teide, at the base of Pico de

Vence, as Pico Viejo is called in Guia de Isora. The black badlands made an impression on her and she decided to seek kinder lands. So, this is how she carne across the first outcrops of the Teno Massif, with its broad, deep ravines that reveal an ancient and rugged landscape. Picorota continued her search for a territory for her own. She found a hollow in one of the crags in Barranco de Masca,

where she spent an eventfullife before she died, leaving a vacant place that was soon taken.

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The hand of man

T HE CONQUEST OF THE HARVEST

• IRRIGATION BY MIRACLE

.. ../ and the enormous job of terracing that man has had to do, sometimes building ridiculously small terraces on steep slopes ... ../

â&#x20AC;˘ E. Burriel, 1982

With very little means, the people of the south have gradually modified nature to get a little more from it. Thus, the small amounts of water rising from the springs were added to by digging galleries to harness water and transport it to the crops. The walls were built with the materials provided by the volcano. The poor soil of the south was improved by adding a thin layer of rich soil on top, soil brought down from higo her up the mountains, and then it was covered with vo\canic sand and cinders to capture moisture from the air.

THE HAN O OF MAN

The conquest of the harvest dry land crops that could survive on the little rain that fell during the winter. Cereals and potatoes were the foundation of agriculture at this time, plus cochineal, which consisted of collecting these insects from the leaves of the prickly pear - a cactus originally from Mexico. The produce was used as a natural dye and colouring in the textile industry.

Drying ground in Chirche.

GUlA DE ISORA

THE CONQUEST OF THE HARVEST I'-----------

ince aboriginal times, farming has been difficult in the district. The aborigines were preferably herdsmen and they gathered wild fruits, completing

their diet with the gofio (toasted f1our) they made from the little wheat and barley they planted, along with fish and molluscs that they collected on

their trips to the coast. After the conquest, settlers introduced new crop species up until the 19th century, when agriculture expanded, thanks to

Farm terraces on the slopes of the ravine 111

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THE HAND OF MAN

The conquest of the harvest

for themselves in the district economy. Export crops; bananas and tomatoes, gradually took over the lowland areas of the district, using up all of the few irrigation resources available. When the local population started to bring water down from the highlands, half way

through the 20th century, these crops spread to cover practically the entire lowland strip of the district, close to the shore, commonly called "the coast" by the locals. Up until the late '60's, farming in the foothills was mainly subsistence farming.

Cochineal

This crop, all of which was exported, earned fortunes for the farmers and traders of the district up until the early 20th century, when it fell into an irreversible decline. The prickly pears remain along the boundaries of farms and along the roadside, as silent witnesses to this golden age, their leaves covered with a cottony substance that almost nobody collects any more. Since the beginning of the 20th century, new crops made a place

Pctatoes grown in volcanic sand and cinders. VtLAFLOR

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Only a small minority of landowners could get into the market of commercial farming, with connections outside the Canary Islands that enabled them to export their produce.

THE HAN O OF MAN

The conquest of the harvest

The rugged terrain and, very often, the small size of plots has meant that it has been impossible to mechanise the countryside, and the only form of irrigation used is the system known locally as "blanket irrigation" which consists of channelling the water to the plants along furrows dug in the earth. When he irrigates his land, the farmer distributes the water among the plants by opening and closing furrows like flood gates. Automatic irrigation systems have been introduced recently, which reduce water consumption and save work for the farmer. Although the sight of a farmer working his fields nowadays shows that technical progress has been made in the sector, the ancestral image of the southern farmers working the land by hand and hauling the crops up steep hillsides has not

substantially changed. Apart from forming part of the common belief generated by the tough conditions, this image still prevails in some parts of the countryside, where traditions have remained unchanged. In the foothills, the terrain forced farmers "to build" their smallholdings in a series of terraces constructed on the slopes and sides of mountains, hills and ravines, as this was the only way of making flat land. The terraces were covered with fertile soil that was hauled in, even from other parts of the Island. These "bancales" (local name for these terraces) are a symbol of the determination of the islander that shapes a land cut into steps by grey, red and almost white walls. These terraces are the main contribution that agriculture has made to this singular landscape,

and a feature that still remains. The "nateros", tiny terraces built to catch the rainfall on the

Almond

steepest slopes. show just how keen the country folk are to harness the rain water to the

trees and small holding in Malpais. SAKflAGO DEL TEIDE

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THE HANO OF MAN The conquest of the harvest

dug up and placed in a layer over the top soil, it regulates temperature and humidity, creating the necessary conditions for crops to flourish, even in adverse conditions. The "jable farms" are typically white, in contrast to the natural colours of the surrounding countryside and the stone-work of the terrace walls. Each smallholding of this volcanic sand and ash is like a brushstroke on the landscape; the contrast is so sharp that it is impossible to miss. It is the

very last drop. This attitude of desperation with respect to water has forged one of the subtler profiles of the south, a place where imagination has led to some unusual solutions. "Jable" the white 114

mantle of volcanic sand and cinders that covers two thirds of the district, and a representative element of the great eruption of Teide, gives the landscape its characteristic colour. Once it has been Preparing the layer of jable

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living representation of the local population's determination and imagination to tame a natural environment that offers very little for farming. The large terraces were built in the lowland areas of the district, taking advantage of the environmental conditions that were more suitable for growing sub-tropical species. With the arrival of irrigation, in the early 20th century, these areas started to specialise in export crops: fruits, vegetables and f1owers,especially bananas,

THE HAND OF MAN

The conquest of the harvest

a highly valued sub-tropical fruit whose leading European producer is Canaries. Smallland owners and farm labourers remained in the foothills, providing produce for local consumption from countless tiny terraced smallholdings. This has traditionally been the larder of the Islander. This is where the staples carne from for his family, and any surplus was sold or exchanged for other articles he needed for his subsistence. Cereals; the potato, still an essential staple in the local diet, maize, tomatoes, etc., together with livestock produce like meat, cheese and milk made up the foundation of economy of the foothills in this part of Tenerife. But, in the last part of the 20th century, there was a great renovation of the agriculture of the foothills, with the

introduction of new crops, mostly for export, which has turned the area into a prosperous and dynamic enclave. From Arico to Santiago del Teide, areas like Valle de San Lorenzo, San Miguel, Guia de Isora and Vilaflor are places that combine tradition and cottage industry farming techniques with systems of irrigation and produce marketing, all under the protective umbrella of farming

Jable terraces for growing potatoes

Tomato plants in greenhouses 115

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THE HAND OF MAN The conquest of the harvest

associations made up of small growers. These co-operatives are the real powerhouse of the foothills. The latest contribution to caring for the land has come with the return of wine growing. The wines that made the island of Tenerife famous, those Malmseys tasted by the English court, came from the north. But, for centuries we have almost forgotten about the wines that were jealously guarded by the wine growers of the south. Relatives and neighbours gathered together, in an almost religious ritual, in friendship, pro ud to make and to have a good local wine to drink and to share. Now, the secret is out, marketed under labels guaranteeing its origin, it can now be tasted and enjoyed by visitors too. The characteristics of the soil, together with the peculiar way

Typical varieties

of working the vines are helping to consolidate clear, white wines with an excellent palate, and unbeatable young, fruity reds. Vineyards in Los Llanos de Trebejo. VII.AFLOR

116

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ARICO

THE HAN O OF MAN

The canquest oi the harvest

• ".1'

,..-

l ..

BcodeSan~:

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SANTIAGO DEL TEIDE •

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Coastal crops Footh i11crops

Area of "jable" (volcanic

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sand and ash)

Farming co-operotives

District Wine producers

117 Discover

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THE JABLE RDUTE

~ Beo. de la Higuera

The canquest af the harvest

"''\ fNe"ar Chimiche, there is a path that allows visitors to walk across Los Derriscaderos nature area, showing them the essence 01 the "jable" culture. The mantles 01 pumice left by the great eruption ofTeide have converted this are a into a source 01 volcanic resources: the

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Beo. de La Cisner~ ...•.•..

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traditional aggregate quarries and the jable caves are mixed up together all along the route, with the whimsical shapes that wind and erosion have sculpted in the terrain. A route of 9 easy kilometres ends at the TF-l main road, at km 52, near the exit for the Granadilla Wind Farm.

Playa d la Rajita Aeropuerto Tenerife Sur

Montaña Pelada

~ _Path Goal pen in Los Derriscaderos GRANADILLA

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*- Access: TF-28 Route: 9km

C9 Duration: 4 hours

LLANOS DE T REVEJO The conquest of the harvest

VILAFLOR ~ling out from Arona along the TF-51 road. the traditional agricuhure of the Ioothills is the proiagonist of the landscape. lt is advisable 10 stop in Llanos de Trevejo. where extensive vineyards decorate a tough. dry. volcanic landscape. From here to Vilaflor. the fields of

highland foothills of San Miguel. the cradle of the jable smallholdings.

VILLA DE ARICO

Llanos de Treveja

_ARONA

potatoes grown in "jable" (volcanic sand and ash) predominate. Countless white terraces and walls dot the landscape. smallholdings that continue along the TF-21 as far as Granadilla de Abona. Al! along this part of the route. you can see the Hundred-year-old

vine in Trevejo

e LOS ABRIGOS

ELMÉDANO

COSTA DEL SILENCIO

Vineyards in Llanos de Trevejo, VILAFLOR

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•

Vineyards

•

Farming co-operative

District Wine producer

Accesses:TF-51, TF-21, TF-28

EL HELECHO FARM The conquest of the harvest

~the upper part 01 the foothills 01 Arico, we find "El Helecho" Iarrn. This property, run by the Tenerife Island Council, or Cabildo. is devoted mainly to recovering traditional crops and varieties and to breeding native breeds of livestock. including the black pig. Its special attraction is a Nature Classroom and a Visitors' Centre equipped for educating visitors about.

" '"

Nature Classroom, and all its resources. is free of charge. You get there by taking the turn-off at km 59. on District Road TF-28.

ARICO EL NUEVO

and disseminating everything to do with life in the countryside.ln its extensive lands. we can travel back through time to the former rurallife of the lsland. ending up with the new ideas for the future. The farm is intended for use by organised groups and schools and the use 01 the

PORIS DE _ABONA

Faro de Abon Punta de abades

11 ."'

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El Helecho Farro

jij"

Accesses: TF-28, TF-414

THE HAN O OF MAN The conquest of the harvest

Montaña de/ Chinyero ~m

Alcala to Guia de lsora, the irrigation of the

coastal crops is the star of the landscape. either in the open or under plastic green houses, this area is one of the great reserves of fruit and vegetables for exporto On the TF·82 road towards

Santiago del Teide. we really must stop and look at the crops growing in the volcanic badlands of El Chinyero, near Arguayo. afine example of the determination of the local people to tame the volcanic lava and hamess them for their survival.

Acantilado de Los Gigantes rAMA/MQ

ALCAL Coastal crops

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•

Farming co-operative

.•

District Wine producer

jii

Access: Tf.47, Tf.454, TF-82

THE HAN O OF MAN Irrigation bV miracle

IRRIGATION

MIRACLE

btaining the water to guarantee the harvests has been a constant factor in the agricultural history of the district. Slow progress has been made, moving from total dependence on rainfall in the early 20th century, to the sophisticated irrigation systems used today. lt has been a long and complex journey, full of the characteristic vicissitudes of an epic adventure. From harnessing the rivulets of water formed by the rain in certain parts of the ravine, with the use of tiny terraces called "nateros", the process has always followed the same story line: obtain the water, store it and carry it to the

fields. Given the irregular character of the rains, the waters collected in reservoirs did not provide enough for the crops, nor the security of obtaining future crops. With the exception of the coastal strip of the Barranco del Infierno in Adeje, that provided large quantities of water, the catchment of water was limited to the little reservoirs that were built in the ravines, which filled up from the rainwater that ran along the bed and, from bere, along ditches to the fields. The water collected, and it was very little, was hardly enough for a handful of farmers to survive for ayear.

Water disrributor.

GUĂ?A DE ÂĄSORA

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the SOUTH

THE HAND OF MAN Irriga tia n by mirac/e

Stone built irrigation ditch.

There was, however, a large, natural subterranean reservoir that rose to the surface through springs in the highlands: the subsoil of the Island. This immense reservoir sto red and transported

water from the rains and the spring thaw of the snows of Teide, which filtered down from the surface to be sto red in the subsoil. This is where the island farmers found the solution to the

problem of water. Digging galleries into the hillsides. horizontally into the mountains until they found a vein of water. Thus, the south found the water that, after the 1920's would transform the landscape and the people who lived in it. Ever since that time, a new kind of association appeared in the district. and still remains; the association of irrigators; a group of landowners that gets together to pay for a gallery to be dug in exchange for a share in the water rights. The galleries were so important that anyone with a little money to spare wanted lo take part. even if they had to sell or pawn properties or stocks. Hundreds of kilometres of tunnels were bored into the Island, creating a subterranean world as a symbol of survival.

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Irrigation ditch made from tiles.

THE HAND OF MAN Irrigation by miracle

Streams like El Traste, Madres de Abajo and El Peral in Vilaflor, and Madres de Agua in Granadilla de Abona, began the miracle of changing the arid countryside into green crops and the painful uncertainty of the farmer, hoping for a better future. From then on, galleries were dug throughout the mountains tops of the entire district, from Santiago del Teide to Arico, and a dense network of channels and ditches started to criss-cross the countryside, to carry waters from the mouth of the gallery to the fields were the crops were growing. The main channels, Canal del sur, Canal del Estado and Canal Intermedio, covered the district throughout the foothills. lrrigation channels run from north to south, bringing water from the galleries, and then taking it on down to the coast.

An enormous comb-shaped system, 70 km long and 15 km wide, distributed the water from over a hundred galleries among thousands of smallholdings between Adeje and Arico. In

the western boroughs; Guia de Isora and Santiago del Teide, a lack of main channels to carry the collective production of several galleries led owners to build their own, individual

pipelines to their lands, generating the characteristic "bunch of pipes" that can still be seen and which stand out in the landscape in both boroughs.

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THE HAND Of MAN Irrigatian by mirac/e

From the archaic furrows dug in the rocky soil to carry water, to the irrigation ditches and channels, water transport has witnessed the advances in technology; hand-made works like the wooden or volcanic rock irrigation channels, manufactured materials like

Domestic watering with a hose-pipe.

mortar or iron, to the latest generation of materials. They have al! served for bringing water to where it is needed, crossing hillsides and ravines, farms and paths, and causing many a dispute along the way.Turning what used to be ochre-coloured green and slaking the thirst of hikers, shepherds and their flocks. The district as we know it today is, to a large extent, the result of the progress of irrigation. Past and present mix and merge: old channels and pipelines, still in use, feed modern irrigation systems; others, now neglected and forgotten, still cross the countryside like silent witnesses of our recent past, or have been relocated to the houses of collectors, ethnographical museums and restaurants for tourists. Irrigation is an essential component in the construction of the

Pool lor watering crops in Jable.

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THE HAND OF MAN Irriga tia n by miracle

landscape and the social and economic life of the south. It has turned the district into the Island's agricultural reserve; fruit and flower growing is important for both the land it covers and the wealth it generates, creating the necessary conditions to conserve traditional culture and way of life against the onslaught of modero society, in the form

Stone jar. GRA~ADILLA

of tourism. It has now become an essential complement that provides a picturesque and welcoming human and scenic setting, both for the visitors that spend their holidays on the lsland, and for the inhabitants of Tenerife who come to the foothills in search of charming places to visit and local dishes and wine to enjoy.

DE ABONA

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The coast and the sea

T HE FORMS OF THE COAST

• LIFE IN THE SEA

• COASTAL MEMORIES WINOS ANO WAVES

The wind and Ihe sea were kind lo us and, the nex¡ day, ihe dazzling lighl of Ihe morning annollnced a beauliful day. At tña; moment the peak ofTeide appeared in the distance like a meteoro On board, we heard the cry of Land Ahoy! And before us lay ¡he mosl beautiftd of Ihe Fortunate Islands, Ihe hospitable Tenerife, Resting place for sailors .

• MM. P Parker Web and Sabin Berthelot. 1839

THE COAST ANO THE SEA

nder the appearance of a lost world, the southern coast ofTenerife encloses an infinity of living worlds and ancient memories. It is not an easy task to discover this coast in all its extension. Observing the nuances of the rocks that battle the sea, capture the subtle world of life the bustles among the stones and the surf, or feeling the marks of a solitary history requires patience and the ability to stop the passage of time that has been bathed by this southern sea. If we look carefully, we will experience an immense variety of sensations and landscapes. The south allows us to walk every imaginable kind of beach, catch a glimpse of an almost magic world of botany, observe life hatch in thousands of marine species, or simply enjoy the sea breeze and the sun. But the signs left by the

islanders on the southern coast are just as rich and as diverse as the naturallandscape. Signs that

have almost been wiped out, sometimes impossible to see, like the abandoned quarries

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where the stone was toro out to build the cathedral of Santiago de Cuba.

THE COAST ANO THE SEA The forms of the coast

environrnents possible, than just those we can see from the surface. The exceptions are a few submarine shelves located at the base of high cliffs like Los Gigantes, imposing witnesses of the original edifice of the island that rose over five thousand metres above the surface of the sea. All these forms systematically remind us of how the islands emerged from the depths of the sea, being created with the fire of the lava that

Natural rack pool in Agua Dulce. El MĂŠdano. GRANADtLLADE ABONA

THE FORMS OF THE COAST

w f e travel along the coast from Punta del Poris to Los Gigantes, with our eyes wide open, we will be able to witness an extraordinary succession of landscapes and environments, each more original than the last. Flats, cliffs,sand or pebble beaches, reefs, pools, ridges and shelves make up an extremely

varied and suggestive world. But, although this is a rich view, it is also partial, unless we complete it with the forms that continue under the surface of the sea. In general, the sea bed along the shoreline falls away sharply, reaching great depths not far from the coast, which makes an even greater variety of

Natural inlet pool. Punta de Abona. AR1CO

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started to flow over fifty miliion years ago. If we go back in time chronologically from the present, we can see, first of all, the coastallandscapes of black rack and whimsical forms caused by tongues of lava from the most recent eruptions, pouring into the sea. This is the shape of the coast to be seen on the beach of San Juan, Playa Santiago, Rasca or Las Galletas, all of which are places where the sea has started to sculpt the final form of the coast. In these areas, erosion by the sea has created a multitude of beautiful spots, open to the sea at high tide, or not. The pools and small coves that are formed have always been the favoured spots for the local people to swim and bathe.

THE COAST ANO THE SEA The forms of the coast

With minor modifications and closures made with rocks from the surroundings, you can guarantee a pleasant dip, sheltered from the waves.

The badlands created by these recent lavas, sometimes provide us areas of exceptional botanic interest. One of the best examples of this is the

Tidal pool. SANTIAGO DEL TEIDE

We can find tidal pools of this kind on the coasts of Santiago del Teide, Punta de Abona, La Jaca, Costa de El Medano, Rasca, Las Americas, La Caleta, Fonsalia and Puerto Santiago.

magnificent landscape of spurges that spreads inland from the Rasca coast. On the seafront too, we can enjoy such special places as the flats. These are extensive inter-tidal areas

that appear at low tide like enormous fields, dotted with pool s and rocks with incredible designs. These areas of incredible biological productivity, where we can see all kinds of crustaceans and young fish. The most interesting of the inter-tidal flats are to be found in Alcala, El Guincho, Palm-Mar, Faro de Rasca, Las Galletas, El Cabezo and Punta del Confita!. Evenings in these areas are usually exceptionally

colourful events, especially if we watch how they disappear as the tide rises. The lava coasts are a paradise for divers, who can discover caves, tunnels and rugged c1iffs, all of which are the result of the surprising forms created by encounters of lava with the water. The continual erosion of the coastline has bored out countless hollows, or has uncovered ancient volcanic pipes; exceptionally rare and outstanding manifestations,

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THE COAST ANO THE SEA The forms of the coast

Puzzolana landscape on the coast. ARtCO

as we can see in the caves of Agua Dulce (Los Abrigos), or in the Cueva de Los Cerebros (San Juan). The bands of seaweed that flourish along the tide line decorate and enrich this primary landscape, Iike the festivities of a sea-faring celebration. Set in these seas of recent lavas, we come across the surprise of areas that are predominantly

View of the marine flats of Punta de Rasca. ARONA 134

white, yellow or ochre-coloured, These are environments that are woven with far older rocks than the black lavas we have mentioned. Despite their silent appearance, these are places that were created by powerful volcanic cataclysms. Exotic and inexplicable spots like Monta単a Amarilla, Monta単a de los Erales or Monta単a la Pelada are the consequence of a violent ineraction between magma and the ocean millions of years ago. They are the results of the socalled hydro-volcanic eruptions, which were exceptionally explosive. On their marine slopes, we will be delighted by the infinite tones of colour of these rare lavas forged in the ocean. These textures, created by hydro-geological cataclysms, although they look similar at a distance, should not be confused with the large deposits of

site now occupied by Teide. We can see a coast of this kind between Poris to Granadilla, and it occasionally appears on the western shores. In this case, the encounter with the sea usually creates

pumice that crack and shatter when they reach the sea, forming those extensive coastal structures of finely eroded forms that sometimes reveal the base of the ancient, original rock base of the island, on which they rest. These deposits are the sediments of mighty burning clouds that formed after the violent explosion of a great volcano that towered up to five thousand metres on the

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THE COAST ANO THE SEA The forms of the coast

Playa del Tambor, an example of the beauty of pebble beaches. GRANADILLA

unusually beautiful spot in the mouths of ravines, which often offer the contrast of pools and hollows that act as reservoirs of fresh or sea water that emphasise the former aridness

DE ABONA

of the surroundings. To complete the diversity of the coast, there are still remains of sand dunes like those of El Medano, and some paleontological sites, whose

different strata show us what shells were like, or marine animals that frequented these beaches at the dawn of time. Logic would suggest that such a variety of events would offer a wide range of beaches that would be impossible to find anywhere on the mainland. We can find beaches of fine, white sand, like El Medano, El Poris or Los Cristianos, 135

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THE COAST ANO THE SEA The forms of the coast

Access to the main beach. Poris de Abona. ARICO

Natural overflow pool. Los Gueldes, Punta de la Rasca. ARO\A

which sometimes have a mirror image in the broad, sandy sea beds covered by meadows of sea-weed, known as sea-grass fields. The erosion of recent

lavas also reveals rare sights like the typical black sand beaches, which are always enclosed in tiny coves. Finally, we have pebble beaches, not

136 Discover [he SOUTH

very widely used beca use of their uncomfortable appearance, but which are the gateway to some beautiful places for those in the know.

THE COAST ANO THE SEA

The sea on the coast

NATURALPOOLS,COASTAL PATHS ANO WALKS Ine south coast ofTenerife is a microcosm that holds a multitude of surprises at every step. Beach lovers have a wide variety to choose from; black or white-sand beaches like those of the holiday resorts that are dotted along the coast, next to wild beaches sheltered by windsculpted landscapes of puzzolana, or tiny coves set in black lava. But one really attractive and different way of going for a swim on the south

coast is to go for a swim in the tidal pools to be found all along the shore. In these places, the waters are constantly changing, forming natural swimming pools created exclusively by the hand of geology. We can use the beautiful coastal paths and trails that lead from the tourist resorts past beaches and c1iffs,to get to these pool s and to try this other way of enjoying the sea.

138 Discover the SOUTH

TIDAL POOLS

INTERESTING COASTAL PATHS

1. Punta de Abona 2. La Jaca 3. Callao Hondo 4. Punta de los Surcos 5. Barranco del Rio 6. El Cabezo 7. Agua Dulce 8. Barranco de Agua Dulce 9. El Guincho 10. Barranco de Archiles 11. El Callao 12. Las Galletas 13. El Fraile 14. Rasca 15. Charcos de Las Américas 16. La Caleta 17. Fonsalía 18. Punta Negra 19. Puerto Santiago 20. Las Bajas 21. El Roque 22. Punta de Lerme

1. El Porís - Los Abriguitos 2. Tajao - Cueva Honda 3. Montaña Pelada - Montaña Roja 4. Montaña Amarilla 5. Costa de Rasca 6. La Caleta - Puertito de Adeje 7. Playa San Juan Alcalá

COASTAL WALKS IN TOURIST AREAS 1. Costa de los Abrigos 2. Costa de Ten-Bel 3. Playa de Las Américas 4. Playa San Juan 5. Puerto Santiago

THE COAST ANO THE SEA Natural pools, coastal paths and walks

............ "''>.

Playa de Las Eras

t,.

•••

Walks

Paths

High-tide Pools

Abrigos DEL Playa de las Galleta~/LENCIO

0 139

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THE COAST ANO THE SEA Life in the sea

[

limpet being one of the best known and best loved in the traditional cuisine of the Canary Islands. In the pools and hollows of the inter-tidal zone, we can see sea urchins, prawns and some little fish called gobies. Finally, we get to the real marine environment, permanently bathed by the sea. In rocky areas, this environment can be distinguished by a c1ear band of seaweed that offers a lovely contrast to the predominant black of the lavas

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Collecting shellfish on the south coast. Poris de Abona. ARICO

LIFE IN THE SEA

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ifealong the shoreline can be seen vertically, like the pages of a book, from the coast, down to the seabed. By dividing the coast into horizontal strips or bands, from the surface of the sea down to deep waters, we can see how there are a series of exciting worlds that are different but

interrelated like the links of a long chain of life. In the pools above the high-tide line of the rocky coasts, we start to see species like the sea cochineals, crabs and the typical top-shells of the Canary Island coasts. In the tidal zone, bands of seaweed and some mollusc species start to appear, with the

of the south. Here, we will find the white crab, a wide variety of small crustaceans and fish like ornate wrasse, damsel fish, green wrasse, gold lined bream and the highly appreciated parrot fish, famous in traditional restaurants. AII this vague boundary of the sea, between land and the ocean, is an important source of food for the coastal towns and settlements that used some curious fishing techniques. For example, catching octopus (known locally as "pulpiar") required an exact knowledge of where they "lived".

Herring gull 141

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THE COAST ANO THE SEA Life in the sea

Just like in the past, they are still caught by attracting them with a white stick and then catching them with a bill hook. Moray eels, in turn, were caught with an octopus spike, either by using a hook, or with a lasso, attracting the eels with special whistles that can still be heard in the solitude of the coast. The countless caves and stony

Cleaning fish in the fishing refuge ofTajao. SAN MIGUEL DE ABONA

beds that form at the base of coastal cliffs, i.e. submarine environments with very little light, are the preferred habitat for some crustaceans like shrimps, prawns and locallobsters. Here, we will also find nocturnal fish like the cardinal fish or the glass eye, or predators and passing fish like common sea bream, bass, grouper, cernia rosa or combers. Sometimes, the sandy seabeds close in to the coast are covered by meadows of seaweed that play an essential role in maintaining the life and fishing productivity of the south. The sea grass meadows that extend down to a maximum depth of thirty-five metres, are particularly important. The fields of seaweed are the marine equivalent of meadows of grass on land for livestock. Many species and their young feed here. That is why they must

Glass eye. a specics that is common in areas of liule light.

be respected, in order to prevent degradation through direct alteration, such as

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anchoring leisure boats. Below a depth of eighty metres, lack of light makes the proliferation of green seaweed impossible, which is why other marine species also gradually disappear at these depths. Strangely enough, however, this dark world shelters beautifully coloured species like orange

THE COAST ANO THE SEA Life in the sea

and black coral. The greatest depths are the domain of some cephalopods and the exotic species of the abysses. Moving away from the coast, the scene changes substantially. The world of the open ocean creates other chains, whose first links are the myriad of miniscule species that make up the plankton, with the largest animals on Earth at the other end of the chain. An immense space in which we can find everything from schools of sardines to sharks and whales. Fishing these open waters is another activity that plays an

Cardinal fish. Ărequent inhabitants of shallow water

caves.

important role for the sea-farers of the south. Mackerel, sardines, horse mackerel and bogue are the fish that have underpinned the economic activity of the villages of the south. Out to sea, the first thing that stands out is the presence of a large variety of tuna species (Atlantic bonito, albacore, big eye tuna), apart from some fish from the scombridae family like the wahoo or the frigate mackerel. Another abundant deep water resource are the flying squid, a species of squid that has the curious habit of coming up to the surface every day, from the depths. Catching the flying squid is a beautiful and mysterious practice that takes place at night in open waters, illuminating the surface of the sea from boats, giving the impression from the coast of floating cities, lost in the far distance of the ocean. Discover the SOUTH

THE COAST ANO THE SEA Life in the sea

Based in the ports of the south, an important leisure and sport s fishing industry has appeared in recent years, devoted to fishing marlin, tuna and some sharks like the mako shark. AlI this irnmense variety of fishery

resources undoubtedly makes it possible to enjoy the splendid fish cuisine of the area. But, apart from all the fishing species, the south is also an important marine sanctuary. Along the coasts, particularly in the western stretch between Punta de Rasca and Teno-Los Gigantes, in the so-called Prim Channel, there are large colonies of cetaceans. This area, commonly known as La Traviesa, is a real paradise for many cetaceans in general, and particularly for the tropical short fin pilot whale.Sighting these creatures is an unforgettable experience, although we must always remember that our curiosity must be limited by our respect for the habitat and customs of these marine mammals. This respect has always been conserved by the fishermen of the south, as

Submarine landscape covered in seaweed.

whales have never been hunted in the Canary Islands. These creature feed on

cephalopods, more specifically the aforementioned flying squid that live in the depths of the

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Prim Channel. Feeding is one of their more curious habits. They feed at night, when they are more active, making incredible dives to a depth of up to 800 metres, just as the cephalopods come up each day from the depths of the Prim Channel to these depths. This is why we should not forget that, for whales, the daytime is a time

THE COAST ANO THE SEA Life in the sea

for resting and looking after their young. Pilot whales have a matriarchal social structure and they are social animals, which is why it is unlikely that you will see individuals on their own. On occasions, pods of over one hundred individuals have been sighted. But these waters of the south west are not just home lO pilot whales. We can often see bottle nose dolphins 100, and occasionally sperm whales and spotted dolphins.

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THE COAST ANO THE SEA Whales and dolphins

seas off the west coast of the Island, from Rasca to Teno, hold one of tbe most important sanctuaries for cetaceans in the world. early one third of all the known species have been sighted in this area. or in the waters around the Canary Islands.

Of all the species, the most common are the colonies of dolphins and pilot whales The short fin tropical pilot whale (Globicephala macrorynchus) is one of the most spectacular sights as a large colony lives permanently in these waters This is a species that has been protected by all the international conventions, so whale watching

must be done in such a way as to avoid bothering them or any aggressive activities that could interfere with tbeir customs in this natural habita!.

LOS GIGANTES PUERTO SANTIAGO

There is a Code of Conduct, drawn up by the Canary Island Government, which indicates how whales should be approached and the basic guidelines to follow, in order not to affect the behaviour of these rnammals. AII visitors are responsible for complying with these rules, and even to demand that the vessels they are on comply with them too.

Whale watching zone

Cetรกceos

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Ports of departure 141

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Punta de Rasca Faro de Rasca

Beaches of the South

Playa de las Etas Playa del Poris

Sand beaches

Playa Grande del Pons

Pebble beaches Playa Cardones

Playa de

los Abriguitos

,~~~~~~~

Playa de los Tara¡aJes Playa de Pelada

~~(~~'¡~?.J~~~~::. :-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-_-_-_-_Playa de La Jaquita ~. PlayaCtlica ~

Playa Grande

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Playa de Los GuJos

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Playa de Punta Blanca

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Playa de AJcala

~PIaYadelHorno Playa de Cha Süverta

Playa de Erques Playa San Bias

Playa Montana Amarilla Playa Blanca

Playa de Pal-Mar

Aria! view Los Cristianos - Las Americas

THE COAST ANO THE SEA

Water sports

fThe southern coast ofTenerife offers limitless potential for low impact water sports. The constant wind along certain stretches of the coastline offers us the chance to go windsurfing in exceptional conditions. The south of the Island has become one of the most famous sites in the world for windsurfing. Furthermore, the countless perfect waves mean that we can also surf over beautiful flats and drop offs.

Along with these surface sports, the seabeds close in by the coast offer an inexhaustible variety of submarine scenery. Rocky c1iffs covered with multi-coloured vegetation, underwater caves that shelter an infinity of marine species, shelves, sea grass meadows and extensive sand banks, one after another in a multi-coloured sequence that turns diving into an art.

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WIND AND WAVES DlVING - WINDSURFING - SURFING DIVE SITES USED BY DIVING CLUBS 1. Las Eras 2. El Porís 3. El Sebadal del Médano 4. Agua Dulce 5. Baja de la Montaña Amarilla 6. Los Champiñones - Las Galletas 7. Las Morenas - Las Galletas 8. La Raya - Las Galletas 9. El Candesito - Rasca 10. Cueva y Veril de los Camarones - Pal-Mar 11. El Camisón 12. Baja de Adeje - La Caleta 13. Playa Paraíso 14. Embarcadero de Fayle 15. Punta de Tixera 16. Cueva de los Cerebros 17. Fonsalía 18. Beril de Punta Blanca 19. Punta Barbero

20. Las Bajas 21. La Atlántida

MAIN AREAS FOR WINDSURFING 1. Tanque de Vidrio 2. Playas de El Médano 3. Ten-Bel - Las Galletas 4. Los Cristianos 5. Punta Las Salinas Las Americas

THE BEST WAVES FOR SURFING 1. La Tejita 2. Los Cristianos 3. Las Galletas 4. Las Américas 5. Callao Salvaje

THE COAST ANO THE SEA

Waves, winds and sea beds

1 (

·,······:·: ... ··0

Playa de las Eras

r Good surfing waves

Great waves

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Punta de abades

•

Good waves

LOSCRJSTWiOS~~~"!!!!!,!!!!!!~r.'"

Dive sites

Playa de Los cristian~ I

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Punta de Rasca Faro de Rasca Main windsurfing

areas

_do.

h lAS

3 Windsurf

Playa Playa de .~a COSTA de los TeJlta DEL Abrigos SILENCIO

•••••••.•••••

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T HE COAST

AND THE SEA

Coastal memories - winds and waves

stretches of the coastline, sometimes without realising just how important they were for whole generations of islanders.

COASTAL MEMORIES

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The Spanish conquistadors talked of the local tradition of fishing in corrals with great surprise. This is a characteristic activity of the south of the lsland that is reminiscent of some ancestral fishing techniques used in the Mediterranean basin. It is a simple and ingenious method that consists of lengthening the arms of the small coastal coves with rocks gathered in situ, in order to encourage fish to enter and be caught, as if the cove were a rock net. This was done in Caleta de la Jaca, in Arico, which continued to be used up until the beginning of the 20th century. The coastal pools of Guia de Isora, Adeje, Arana and

Later was collected from spurges by sticking limpel shells lo \he trunk as bowls.

Arico were also used up until recently for fishing with the technique known locally as "ernbarbascado" or poisoning the fish with the sap of spurge plants and collecting the stunned fish when the tide carne in. Another technique used was to dazzle the fish at night with lamps. You need to look carefully at

many of the shapes of the shoreline to discover the memories of their intense coastal history. This is the case of the hollows dug out that can still be seen along some

Aboriginalhoob made from booe. 153

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THE COAST ANO THE SEA Coastal memories - winds and waves

Salt pans dug in the rock in the south ofTenerife.

Many of these hollows were used for making gofio (toasted flour) made from a kind of a plant known as ice plant. These were soaked in pools, or in hollows dug out for that purpose, to cure them and they were then ground and toasted to be used, not just as food, but also as a substitute for coffee.

This is an incredible example of the effort made by a nation to crea te wealth from apparent shortage. And it is through their eyes that we should look to rediscover many of the things that make up the south. The saltpans spread along the coast were also used at times for the same purpose. Unfortunately, we can no longer enjoy these old, watery landscapes that used to be dotted along some stretches of coastline in places like Alcala, Fonalia and Las Americas. We can however, still make out many of the hollows and pools in which the valuable salt was collected. lt is thought that this tradition may date from the times of Carthage. The practice of salting fish in the sun on pebble beaches and on drying racks, with pure salt collected from the black cliffs, is a tradition that remains alive

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today. The growth in fishing in more recent times has bequeathed us with a wide repertoire of picturesque fishing villages and places that act as perfect spots

The coastallimekilns were of great importance in the early 20th century.

for looking out over the sea, or as anchorages on our boat trips, where we can share the space with the fishermen of today. Anchorages and wharfs like those in Jaca, Play Chica, Los Abrigos, Alcala or Puertito de Santiago, are places where the flavour of this mari time history

THE COAST ANO THE SEA Coastal memories - winds and waves

that shelter some of these wharfs, like the ones in El Puertito de Adeje, or La Caleta, we will get another marvellous perception of the diversity of the coast, but this time from the sea. The same is true if we wander

remains intact. There are some lovely views of constructions like the Fayfes wharf, sheltering a little cove of limpid waters

that used to be used for loading the tomatoes harvested in this part of the coast of Adeje. If we drop anchor in the coves

around the old harbours and fishing refuges. Harbours and fishing docks like those in Tajao, El Medano, Las Galletas, Playa San Juan or Los Cristianos, still retain the colours and feelings . of the traditional parts.

Loading fruit on a wharf in Poris de Abona. Beginning of 19th century, ARICO

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155

THE COAST ANO THE SEA Coastal memories - winds and waves

Next to thern, we can still see the fishing villages and districts, where you will inevitably try sorne fresh fish after roarning

I I The fishing village of Los Cristianos at the beginning of the 20th century ARONA

I Historie Fayfe wharf.

their quiet streets and alleys. In places like Playa San Juan or Los Abrigos, you can still find ship builders who create the beautiful rnulti-coloured vessels

that sail the southern coasts. These vessels are like living creatures that can be seen everywhere sharing the seascape. The colours that

decorate the boats show where they are frorn, and the cornbinations of colours used also show under which saint's protection they sail. 157

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THE COAST ANO THE SEA Coastal memories - winds and waves

Los Gigantes marina.

Puerto Colon marina.

Port of Los Cristianos.

Do not forget that boats are christened too, like good Christians and, like human beings, adopt their own name. Nowadays, the old and the new, ancestral practices and the c1ever customs introduced by the local population in modern times, merge in the sea, giving way to a complex system of traditional uses of the coast that has survived to the present day. The sails of windsurfers and the pleasure craft rnix with traditional fishing boats and equipment, forming a multicoloured and bustling mosaic of activity. The new winds of today no longer push along the sails of the old fishing boats, they now help to drive pleasure boats along and fill the horizon with the bright colours of the sails of windsurfers. Even the wild waves of reefs like Los Cristianos - Las Americas have become sought after

158

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spots for surfing. ew marinas, like those in Los Gigantes, Puerto Colon or Los Cristianos, complete the facilities that enable us to enjoy the coast to the full. Thus, in the south, all kinds of water sports and activities are possible, at the same time as it will wrap us in the aroma and the taste of its ancient memories and traditions.

THE COAST ANO THE SEA Seafaring scenes

fMan's old relations with the sea. the happiness and tragedies of sea-faring villages. can still be seen in many spots in the south. Places where we can feel that time has stood still for the men and women of the sea. Boats. nets and places to enjoy good fresh fish adoro the picturesque maritime environments of the south. \Ve can roam their old streets or enjoy the atmosphere in the area of the

fishing docks. where people always talk about the sea and its ways. Next to the colours of this popular flavour. we can always turo our gaze to the imposing elements of Nature on the edge of the sea. Scenes like Los Gigantes cliffs. the Rasca coast. Montaña Roja. Guaza cliffs or Montaña Amarilla. provide the perfect setting to the long history of the seafaring south.

SEAFARING SCENES VILLAGES, SURROUNDlNGS ANO IMAGES

TRAOITIONAL COASTAL SETTLEMENTS ANO TOWNS 1. Poris de Abona 2. Tajao 3. Los Abrigos 4. Las Galletas 5. La Caleta de Adeje 6. El Puertita de Adeje 7. Playa San Juan 8. Alcalá 9. Puertita Santiago SEAFARING SURROUNOINGS 1. Muelle Playa Grande del Poris 2. Muelle de El Médano 3. Muelle Antiguo de Los Cristianos y Charco del Lino 4. Embarcadero de Fayfes

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VIEWS FROM YOUR OREAMS 1. Frente costero de Tajao 2. Montaña Amarilla 3. Cantiles costeros de la costa de Rasca 4. Acantilados de Guaza 5. Rasa Marina de Las Américas 6. Acantilados de Isiorana 7. Acantilados de Los Gigantes

THE COAST ANO THE SEA Seafaring scenes, memories and villages

Acantilado de Los Gigantes

"",."s"'''r

LOS GIGANTES ••

...........•..• ".

....

PUERTO SANTIAGO

ALCALA

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U' .PLAYASANJUA"

.... ORIS DE ABONA

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-EL MÉDANO Playa del Médano

settlements ond towns Seoforing

<iD Views

Punta de Pelada

Playa Punta Roja de la Tejita

surroundings

from your dreoms 161

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THE COAST AND THE SEA

Sailing the coasts of the south

fib'urist and sports sailing covers the whole spectrum in this part of the Island. Along with excellently equipped marinas like Los Gigantes, Los Cristianos or Puerto Colon, there is a full range of wharfs, anchorages and fishing quays to provide constant support for sports sailing and giving us access to some unusual spots Many of the small wharfs and quays still

conserve a profound popular and seafaring atmosphere that makes sailing these southern routes even more delightful. The diversity of the winds make it possible to sail in all kinds 01 conditions, enabling you to set out for a neighbouring island, or just sail the coastal waters of the south west of the Island.

EMBARCADEROS REFUGIOS PESQUEROS PUERTOS DEPORTIVOS

WHARFSAND DOCKING RAMPS

QUAYS AND YACHT MARINAS

1. El Poris 2. La Jaca 3. Playa Chica - El Médano 4. Los Abrigos 5. Caleta de Adeje 6. Puertita de Adeje 7. Embarcadero Fayle 8. Alcalá 9. Puertita Santiago

1. El Médano 2. Los Cristianos 3. Puerto Colón 4. San Juan 5. Los Gigantes

FISHING QUAYS 1. Tajao 2. Las Galletas 3. Los Cristianos 4. Playa de San Juan 162

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THE COAST ANO THE SEA Sailing the coasts of the south

Playa de Las Eras

Faro de Abona Punta de abades

• • •

Yacht marinas and quays Wharfs and decking ramps Fishing quays Ideal area fer

Punta de Rasca Faro de Rasca

COSTA DEL SILENCIO

sailing 163

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The palate of the district

Then carne the dessert: fresh figs powdered with gofio, a boiled yam, cut into slices on a plate with molasses, goat's mi/k cheese, some bananas and a honey pie.

Sabio Berthelot.

1839

Nowadays, the cuisine of the district is recovering the genuine old f1avours of the past. The area is thus recovering its sense of taste, which, along with its sight, are the ones that give most pleasure to visitors.

THE PAlATE OF THE DISTRICT

along with the economic, social and cultural changes over the last fifty years, have left their mark on how people live and, therefore, how they eat. The "palate of the district" has not always remained unchanged. Such important changes in the economic order as the construction of the Canal del Sur, export crops and tourism, have left their mark on the flavours of the south. We could, Puchero stew.A traditional dish of the foothills.

elements from Traditional the district, like fresh cheese, goat meat, fish and shellfish, octopus, pork, potatoes, wheat, barley or corn, together with white wines and c1arets are natural items on the menu in the south, along with some excellent desserts and the traditional taste for nuts, dry figs and prickly pears, without forgetting the traditional

"mojos", or sauces to accompany meat and fish dishes. Each and every one of these elements, which are not exclusive to the region, do take on a special flavour, beca use their evolution here has been determined by the changes and transformations that have taken place in local society. The customs and ways of life that have evolved in the south,

for instance talk of a before and after, a cuisine associated to before and after tomatoes were grown, or before and after the Canal del Sur irrigation channel was built. In the former case, we could say that the modern world arrived with the tomato. In the case of the Canal del Sur. potatoes, wheat, barley, fruit, lentils chick peas and other farm produce of the foothills reaped the benefits, which led to changes in eating habits. Broths were no longer "dishwater", as they became more consistent with the ingredients from the newly irrigated lands. On the coast too, fish dishes have evolved with the arrival of modern society. From "jareado" fish (sun dried) lo fresh fish, there is a bridge in the form of technological advances in food conservation on the one hand, and the 167

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-----demand for fresh fish on the coast, due to the affluence of visitors brought in by the phenomenon of tourism. The scale of traditional values survives however, even though the avalanche of the so-called "international cuisine" and the boom in fast food in the tourist resorts is an obvious reality. On the coast, cooking is still based on what the sea produces. Not just fresh fish, such as "parrat fish", a traditional symbol of the gastronomy of the Canary Island coasts, or the Atlantic bonito or tuna. You also see cephalopods like octopus and cuttlefish, or molluscs like limpets and top shells continue to playa leading role in the local flavours. All served with the typical "mojos" of the Canary Island cuisine, like the "mojo picon" or spicy sauce, red in colour, and coriander sauce,

THE PALATE OF THE OISTRICT

which is green. The foothills too, with their selfsufficient agriculture, have also helped to elaborate their own flavours, associating farm produce with ingredients from the coast and traditional livestock products, mainly from goats and pigs, all accompanied by fresh cheeses, abundant

dessert dishes and the previously mentioned white and claret wines. The mutual enhancement of the cuisines of the foothills and the coast was the result of the trade that existed between the two

168 Discover

the SOUTH

areas, in which herdsmen, due to the traditionally nomadic nature of their work, often acted as a mediator. Thus, the fishermen and farmers found the necessary

THE PALATE OF THE DISTRICT

Fresh goat's milk cheese from the district.

counterpoint in the shepherd for the flavours of the foothills and the coast to converge. The shepherd, apart from playing the role of mediator, also . contributed his own tastes with milk, cheese and lard. Flavours have not only been determined by the produce of the sea and the land. Conditions of clima te and terrain have also left their mark. Thus, for example, the conditions of humidity and hours of sunlight have made it

possible to sun-dry fish (jareado) and fruit, mainly figs and mature cheese. As modern day life has prevailed, some processed

products have gradually changed. This is the case, for instance of the local cheeses. Initially they were made and processed for

eating in accordance with the Iact that herds led a nomadic life in search of their pastures, changing from one season to another. 169

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THE PALATE OF THE DISTRICT

This meant that at times of little grazing for the flocks, they could not be milked as often, so cheese was made to tide them over in these times of shortage by curing fresh cheese. To do this, the fresh cheese was put in a container with wheat and it was mixed with oil, or it was placed in wicker baskets and mixed with oi!. The characteristic wicker baskets were kept well ventilated in the kitchen. As people used to cook on a wood fire, the fact that the cheese was kept in the kitchen to mature meant that it was sometimes smoked too. Nowadays, the supply of fresh cheese in the district, mainly from Arico, is guaranteed throughout the year, as grazing the flocks no longer depends on the season and herding is no longer a nomadic life. Concerning the sun-dried fruits, from the prickly pear dried in

the sun, known locally as higo porreto or higo carre単o, to figs, prunes and raisins, it must be admitted that consumption has diminished, as has production,

on which the fruit was left to dry. Of meat, basically we can talk of the traditional consumption of goat meat and baifo, the

although the memory of these labours remain in the form of numerous stone constructions called "sequeros", or dryers that are sometimes reminiscent of a stone pyramid-shaped structure

aboriginal name that is still used today in the Islands, to describe the young goats or kids. The young adult goat, called a "machorra", like the kid, was either roasted or stewed, with

only the kid being fried for serving at the table. Along with goats, other domestic animals like rabbits or hens, form part of the meat repertoire, with pork as the star player. The "Black pig" variety is currently being recovered and bred in the El Helecho, run by the Tenerife Cabildo, in the borough of Arico. Pork was roast and, above all fried, which is known as "carne de fiesta" or fiesta meat. Black pudding, together with bacon and lard, are the most frequent pork products. Goat meat used to be salted too. To do this, it was put in a vat and left for two weeks before it was ready. It was then used for making stews and broths, the best of which are cress and lentil stews. The district has always made wines from the traditionallistan blanco and Malmsey varieties of grapes. The old vineyards

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~--------------------------------------~

THE PALATE OF THE DISTRICT

included the now defunct Marcos y Peraza vineyards in Vilaflor, although the building still remains, known locally as the Bodega de Las Mesas. Pies take pride of place in Guia de Isora, where milk, eggs and almonds constitute the testimony of a rich variety of hand made pastries and desserts. Vilaflor, with its traditional "rosquetes" adds a counterpoint to the desserts of the area. We should not forget that bee keeping is an activity that is presently having much success. Depending on the time of year, the hives are taken from one place to another by the beekeepers. The honey produced by the bees of the highland areas, up in the mountain tops, is highly appreciated, as is the honey of some of the ravines like Barranco del Infierno, where bee farms produce excellent honeys.

Old wooden wine press. SANTIAGO DEL TEIDE

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THE PALATE OF THE DISTRICT

THE GASTRONOMIC ENVIRONMENTS OF THE DlSTRICT The distribution of agricultural products, meat, fish and other ingredients for cooking, in the different areas of the district, gives a c1ue to understanding the culturallinks of flavours and

traditional and only food of the people of the south, for many years. Nowadays it is an agreeable challenge for visitors to recognise and ~iscover Ihese ingredienls and dishes.

dishes with their place of origin and their role of

• • •

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PRODUCE O THE SEA - Fish and shellfish

PRODUCE OF THE LAND AND THE STABLE - Stews, broths, meat and cheese

HIGHLAND SWEETS - Almond, fig and honey sweets

PRODUCTS WITH DENOMINATION OF ORIGIN 1 - Bodega comarcal Cumbres de Abona 2 - Bodega municipal El Chinyero de Santiago del Teide 3 - SAT Bodegas Bilma 4 - Quesería de Arico

THE PALATE OF THE DISTRICT

PORIS DE ABONA

•

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Main road Dislrict road Aeeess lo the coa st PI.y. '"

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•

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ElUlDANO

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Useful information on the South

FARMER'S MARKETS HANDICRAFTS LOCAL FIESTAS USEFUL INFORMATION

USEFUL INFORMATION ON THE SOUTH Farmers' markets

FARMERS' MARKETS

The farmers' markets are fascinating. The one organised in Granadilla de Abona,on the road from San Isidro to El Medano, the San Miguel market, which offers produce from other boroughs as well as the local produce, and the Santiago del Teide market are good examples. They are usually open on Saturdays and Sundays from 8 a.m. t02 p.m. Farmers from the borough offer their produce in these markets and sometime, as is the case of San Miguel de Abona, farmers come from all over the district to sell their produce. There has also been a growth in handicraft markets that have sprung up next to the farmers' markets, like the Torviscas Market.

176

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the SOUTH

USEFUL INFORMATION ON THE SOUTH Farmers' markets

The farmers and craftsmen of the district are the ones who sell their produce and products to the public in these picturesque markets, which are ideal for spending an enjoyable Saturday or Sunday morning. Honey, sweets, f1owers, crafts and produce from the countryside provide local f1avour, colour and aromas.

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USEFUL INFORMATION ON THE SOUTH Handicrafts

THE CRAFfS OF EACH

HANDICRAFfS

BOROUGH '1 ADEJE Ceramics

Artificial Flowers Morocco

Crochet work Toys Miniatures Bronze work

Dressing

There is a wealth of different crafts to be found in the district that vary in forms and types. From traditional desserts and spirits to embroidery, stonework, ceramics, pottery, lacework, etc. Handicrafts pro vide a reference point in the local history and, although many of these crafts can also be found in other parts of the island, the finish of the products of the South and the blend of ancient and modero that local craftsmen attain, are really surprising. The main forms of crafts from each borough are listed on the right. The list includes the main products of each

Goatskin

• 6 SAN MIGUEL

bags

ABONA

Lace Rosettes

'2 ARICO Stonework

Lace Wroughl iron

• 7 SANTIAGO DEl TEmE Ponery Embroidery Basketwork Rape and nelS Fabrics Macramé Morocco dressing Miniarures Upholstery

'3 ARONA Carpentry Ceramics Miniatures

Gold work Furs Woodcarving '4 GRANADlllA

ABONA

Ponery

Shipwright Basketwork Morocco dressing Upholstery

borough, but not necessarily the only ones.

's GUíA

DE ISORA

Ceramics Shipwrights Basketwork 178

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's VllAFLOR Ceramics

Lace Spinning

Macramé Rosettes

USEFUL INFORMATION ON THE SOUTH Handicrafts

..... PICO lEIOf

...............

I 8co.desant/ LOS GIGANTES.

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de/as

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USEFUL INFORMATION ON THE SOUTH Local Fiestas

LOCAL FIESTAS

There are cultural and festive traditions to be seen throughout the district. The fiestas of the Patron Saints of each borough are especially interesting, although there are also many fiestas organised by each neighbourhood that, year after year, repeat the rituals of fun, spiritual devotion and traditions. There is an enormous range of cultural events that include everything from exhibitions, lectures, theatre, to activities such as those organised by the Summer University of Adeje. The fiestas listed below are aimed at offering variety. but the list does not include every fiesta held. as these are countless.

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USEFUL INFORMATION ON THE SOUTH Local Fiestas

Transfer of the Pendant during the fiesta of La Virgen de Abona.

PRINCIPALES FIESTAS DE LA COMARCA 5 January 20 January

February 25 April

13 June 13 June 25 July 1 August 15 August 27 August September 29 September End Sept. End Sept. 10etober 1st Mon. Oct. 1st Mon. Oet. End Nov. Deeember

Parade of the Three Wise Men San Sebastián Carnival (Los Gigantes Cliffs) Brother Pedro San Antonio de Padua Nuestra Señora del Rosario Fiestas en honor a Santiago Apóstol Virgin del Carmen (Playa San Juan) Nuestra Señora de Candelaria en Alcalá San Agustín and San Roque Virgin de Abona San Miguel Arcángel Santísimo Cristo de la Dulce Muerte Nuestra Señora de La Luz Nuestra Señora De La Encarnación Nuestra Señora Del Rosario Santísimo Cristo de La Salud Fiesta del Volcán de la Virgen de Guía Live Nativity

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Santiago del Teide Adeje Santiago del Teide Vilaflor Granadilla de Abona Granadilla de Abona Santiago del Teide Guía de Isora Guía de Isora Vilaflor Arieo San Miguel de Abona Guía de Isora Guía de Isora Adeje Arona Arona Guía de Isora Santiago del Teide

Maritime procession during the fiestas in honour of San Juan Bautista and La Virgen del Carmen in Playa de San Juan. GUlA DE ISORA

USEFUL INFORMATION ON THE SOUTH USEFUL INFORMATION

CORONA FORESTAL

The Corona Forestal Nature Park is a natural asset that is shared between the eight boroughs of the District. This Nature Park generates water all over the island. The Corona Forestal also acts as a place for recreation. Ieisure and enjoyrnent in the open air. representing a tourist resource that rnust be looked after and protected. There are several facilities for leisure and enjoyrnent in the open air. They are easy to reach by car, well signposted and specifically designed as recreation areas. Sorne of the zones that are open to visitors, within the Nature Park, are listed below.

• "EL CONTADOR" RECREATIO AREA. Canary Island Pine Forest. How to get there: Along the Calle del Ayuntamiento, in Arico, towards Arico hill for about 6 km. There is drinking water, toilets, barbecue grills, benches and tables for picnics, sports areas and a children's playground. • "LAS LAJAS" RECREATION AREA. Canary Island Pine Forest. How to get there: You take the C821 from Vilaflor to Las Cañadas, at km. 58 on the left.1t has drinking water, toilets, barbecue grills, benches and tables for picnics, football pitch and a children 's play area. • "CHIO RECREATION AREA". Canary Island Pine. How to get there: TF-823 ChioBoca de Tauce-Las Cañadas, km

12,5. lt has drinking water, toilets, barbecue grills, benches and tables for picnics, sports facilities (football pitch) and a children's playarea. • "MADRE DEL AGUA" CAMP. Canary Island Pine. How to get there: Take the C-822 from La Orotava to Granadilla and then the track tbat goes off to the left 1.5 km before reaching Vilaflor. The track is about 9 km long. You need a permit and a programme of activities. The permit is free of charge, but you need to leave a deposit and the application must be made from the Tenerife Cabildo (Island Council). For further information, ring 922 239199.The camp has drinking water, electricity, showers, toilets, dining room, sports grounds and cabins.

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USEFUL INFORMATION ON THE SOUTH

Usetiú ínictmstion

USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS

TOWNHAll RED CROSSAMBUIANCES

ADEJE

ARONA

ARICO

GRANADILLA

GUlA DE ISORA

SAN MIGUEL

SANTIAGO DEL TEIDE

VILAFLOR

922710120 112

922725100

922768512 112

922770051 112

922851111 112

922167348 112

922863127 112

922709009 112

112 062 112 092

112 062 112 092 922850835 922850150

112 062 112

112 062 112 092

PROTECCIÓN CIVIL

922785628 112 922282202

SALVAGE AND MARI E

SECURITY NATIONAL POUCE GUARDIA CIVIL LOCALPOUCE EMERGENCIES HEALTII CENTRE

112 062 112 092 922715959 922711533

900202202 922797811 091 922791414 112 922755562 112/092 922726084 922725572

922774420

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092 922863050 922864059

OFFICES OFTHE

ENVIRONMENT TOURIST OFFICES POSTOFFICE BUSES

922756213 922750633 922710456 922795427

922725100

922770154 922176002 922850217

922770259 922770606

922860348 922861882

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----------------------------------

USEFUL INFORMATION ON THE SOUTH Usefullnformation

INTERESTING

SITES

FOR BIRD WATCHING IN THE. SOUTH OF TENERIFE

El Medano Malpais de Rasca Monta単a de Guaza Charca del Fraile, or Charca de Los Bonis Barranco del Infierno Punta Blanca Punta de Abona Ifonche Pinar de Vilaflor

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Glossary TERMS ANO SPECIES

CommonName

Scientific Name

CommonName

Scientific Name

African cuttlefish Albacore Atlantic bonito Atlantic wrasse Balo Blue chaffinch Blue tit Bogue Broom Bulwer's petrel Buzzard Calandra lar k Canary Island cactus spurge Canary Island gum Canary Island pine

Sepia officinalis Thunnus alalunga Sarda sarda Centrolabrus trutta Plocama pendula Fringilla teydea Parus caeruleus Boops boops Adenocarpus sp. Bulweria bulwerii buteo buteo insularis Calandrella rufescens Euphorbia canariensis Cystus sp. Pinus canariensis

Canary Island wormwort Cardinal fish Cernia Rossa Comber Common Canary savory Daisy Damsel fish Flying squid Frigate mackerel Glass eye Gold lined bream Grouper Horse mackerel Kestrel Leafless spurge

Artemisia aabsinthium Apogon imberbis Mycteropreca rubra Serranus sp. Micromeria varia Argyranthemum sp. Chromis limbatus Todarodes sagittatus Auxis rochei Heteropriacanthus cruentatus Sarpa salpa Epinephelus guata Trachurus picturatus Falca tinnunculus canariensis Euphorbia balsamifera

Cornrnon Narne

Scientific Narne

Limpet Little shearwater Mackerel Mako shark Marlin Octopus Old pine Ornate wrasse Parrat fish Pilchard Prickly pear Purple flowered spurge Sea bass Sea grass meadows Skip jack tuna Sparrow hawk Sperm whale

Patella sp. Puffinus assimilis Scomber scombrus Isurus oxyrinchus Tetrapturus sp., Makaira Octopus vulgaris Pinus radiata Thalassoma pavo Sparisoma cretense Sardina pilchardus Opuntia ficus-barbarica Euphorbia broussonetti E. Dicentrarchus labrax Thunnus obesus Accipiter nisus granti Physeter macrocephalus

CornrnonNarne Spotted dolphin Stone curlew Swordfish Tagasaste Teide bugloss Teide white braom Top shell Torvisca Tropical short fin pilot whale Tuna Wahoo White crab White sea bream Woodchat shrike Woodpecker

Scientific Narne Stenella frontalis Burhinus oedicnemus Xiphias gladius Chamaecystisus prolijerus Echium wildpretti Spartocystisus supranubius Osilinus sp. Daphne gnidium Globicephala macrorhynchus Thunnusthynnus Acanthocybium solandri Plagusia depressa Diplodus sargus Lanius senator Dendrocopos major

Some of the endemic Canary species do no! have an English name

Common Name

Scientific Name

Limpet Little shearwater Mackerel Mako shark Marlin Octopus Old pine Ornate wrasse Parrot fish Pilchard Prickly pear Purple flowered spurge Sea bass Sea grass meadows Skip jack tuna Sparrow hawk Sperm whale

CommonName Spotted dolphin Stone curlew Swordfish Tagasaste Teide bugloss Teide white broom Top shell Torvisca Tropical short fin pilot whale Tuna Wahoo White crab White sea bream Woodchat shrike Woodpecker

Scientific Name Stenella frontalis Burhinus oedicnemus Xiphias gladius Chamaecystisus proliferus Echium wildpretti Spartocystisus supranubius Osilinus sp. Daphne gnidium Globicephala macrorhynchus Thunnus thynnus Acanthocybium solandri Plagusia depressa Diplodus sargus Lanius senator Dendrocopos major

Some of the endemic Canary species do not have an English name

-.-

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V Municipalities

Ayto AdeJe

Ayto Arona

Ayto, Gura de Isara

Ayto Sannaqo deJ Ieide

collaborating

Ayto.Arico

Ayto. Granadilla de Abona

Ayto. San Miguel de Abona

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Ayto. Vilaflor

lnstitutions: