Let's Travel Oct/Nov 2014

ISSUE 32 OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014

Let’s Travel THE MAGAZINE FOR CORPORATE AND LEISURE TRAVELLERS

ISSUE 32 OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2014 THE MAGAZINE FOR CORPORATE AND LEISURE TRAVELLERS

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Let’s Travel THE MAGAZINE FOR CORPORATE AND LEISURE TRAVELLERS

Let’s Travel: is published by L T Publishing Limited PO Box 55199, EastRidge, Auckland 1146. New Zealand Ph: + 64 9 521 4879 www.letstravelmag.com Editor-In-Chief: Gary Dickson gary@letstravelmag.com Mob: + 64 21 523 421 Editor at Large: Shane Boocock shane@letstravelmag.com Mob: + 64 21 142 7040 Editor at Large Gayle Dickson gayle@letstravelmag.com Mob: + 64 21 281 7699

EDITOR'S

Sales and Marketing: Gary Dickson gary@letstravelmag.com Mob: + 64 21 523 421

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Design and Production: Element Design Limited Monique@element.co.nz Ph: + 64 9 636 0558 Contributors: Shane Boocock, David Boyce, Pam Corkery, Gary Dickson, Gayle Dickson, Dillon Photography, Peter Feeney, Marissa Howden, Brian Kelly, Rob McFarland, Graham Reid, Tim Roxborogh and David Whitley

from the editor

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bout this time every year we start planning features and destinations we want to cover the following year. It’s always a vigorous debate about what we have covered previously, what we think might be a good read for our loyal readers, what our advertisers are getting ready to promote and, just as importantly, where we personally want to travel to.

Already on the agenda for 2015 are Italy, France, New York City, Russia, Fiji, Florida, Hawai’i, numerous rail journeys, adventures to far flung places and a host of local articles as well…to name just a few.

Without the support of airlines, tourism boards and operators on the ground when we arrive it would be impossible to continue to present you with what we consider to be New Zealand’s Numero Uno bi-monthly travel publication. We welcome any feedback on any of our articles at any time – email me personally at gary@letstravelmag.com And just as important are the travel writers who slave away behind their PC/Mac, once they return from whence they went, to ensure the deadlines I set them are adhered to. There ability to pen the words in such a way as to entice you to go their yourself is paramount to Let’s Travel… whether it’s in these pages, on our website or up on our Facebook page.

So, enjoy! Travel well, travel often and travel safe…but whatever you do in your life…travel!

Live long and prosper!

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www.twitter.com/letstravelmag ISSN Number 1176 – 4619 To enquire about permission to copy cuttings for internal management and information purposes please contact the PMCA, Ipayroll House, 93 Boulcott Street, Wellington, phone (04) 498 4488, email info@pmca.co.nz. Copyright – L T Publishing Limited. No part of this publication may be reproduced or copied in any form by any means (graphic, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, information retrieval systems or otherwise) without the express prior written permission of L T Publishing Limited.

Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the authors and not necessarily those of Let’s Travel or L T Publishing Limited. The publisher accepts no responsibility whatsoever.

Gary Dickson EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

“It is good to have an end to journey toward, but it is the journey that matters, in the end.”

(Ernest Hemingway 1899 – 1961)

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contents NEW ZEALAND 52 Auckland 68 Dunedin 84 Taupo AUSTRALIA 48 Cruising The Kimberley 88 Sydney’s Menzies Hotel 90 Spirit of Queensland Rail 93 Bundaberg

CONTENTS

PACIFIC ISLANDS 10 Samoa 24 Papua New Guinea 36 Cook Islands 40 Fiji 44 Vanuatu 72 Hawai’i

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U.S.A. 28 Massachusetts 56 Route 66 (Part 2) 60 New Mexico 76 Beverly Hills 98 Denver, Colorado

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ASIA 6 Malaysia 20 Thailand 94 Bali BEYOND 16 Peru 32 England 64 MSC Caribbean Cruise

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OTHERS 74 The Difference Catering 82 Helipro 103 Penthouse 64 REGULARS 67 Celebrity Traveller 102 Books 104 New Products

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Let your kids clamber across palm trees, play amongst golden sands and dive into crystal clear water. Watch them explore rainforests, tropical reefs and traditional villages. Bring your kids to Fiji and let them completely forget about TV. Go to www.fiji.travel to find out more.

ASIA | MALAYSIA

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Culture, history and food in Cat City Words and images by Graham Reid

W

hen the explorer and entrepreneur James Brooke sailed up the Sarawak River in northern Borneo, in 1838, he encountered a small village of local people and, if we believe the legend, an unnaturally large number of short-tailed cats.

At this point in our story the cats become more important than the people, because the village – which has grown into a city of half a million people today – was given the name Kuching…which means Cat City. And the people of Kuching take their cats – which roam freely through bars, cafes, shops and open-air restaurants – very seriously.

At a few key intersections there are statues of cats (some rather unattractive it has to be said), and the city boasts the famous Cat Museum filled with anything and everything relating to cats, or even just – as the movie posters of Cat on a Hot Tin Roof and Cat Ballou attest – a mere mention of the animal.

The museum inside the massive Kuching North City Hall, about 15 minutes from the city centre, is one of the more mad attractions (or cute, depending on how you feel about felines) in this easy-going city which has a small town ambience. That’s in part due to the walkway running alongside the river where, at night, hawkers open their tents, musicians play and small cafés and eateries pop up selling excellent and ridiculously cheap food and drink.

The illuminated riverwalk is one of the focal points of this predominantly Muslim city which has a fascinating cultural mix of Malay, Chinese and Indian, and a unique history.

James Brooke became the first “white Rajah” in the region and the Brooke family palace, or Astana, is just across the river beside the impressive parliament building.

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I first visited Kuching five years ago and promised myself I’d return. I barely scraped the surface because its relaxed feel, which saw me in the James Brooke Bistro and Cafe near the river a few times for cool beers in the humidity, made my time there more a holiday than an exploration.

So when the chance came up to attend the annual Rainforest World Music Festival about 40 minutes away (like a Womad but with more Malaysian and Indonesian artists) I grabbed the opportunity and happily got back to Kuching.

As a city it is easy to walk around. It is flat and the central area readily accessible, but you have to watch the footpaths in places – small steps up and down to channel water during tropical rainstorms – though you get used to that quickly. The central area takes in half a dozen streets and lanes back from the river between one cat statue to the east and the open-air market a 10 minute walk to the west, and near the enormous mosque.

There is a conveniently central museum district which is highly recommended for the insights it gives into the history of the region. The main Sarawak Museum – in two parts linked by a bridge across a main thoroughfare – is an essential stop-off. It is crammed with stuffed examples of the rich wildlife of the region. And if you can’t make it to an Iban longhouse to see how those people live, the museum has some decent replicas…although they are rather more clean and less smelly than the one I stayed in.

Make sure you look up when you see the wall of photos and information about how the Iban used to be headhunters.

ASIA | MALAYSIA

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The nearby Textile Museum is fascinating too, although you wouldn’t want to be locked in there overnight if the mannequins came alive. Some of those women look very unhappy in their work and a few have extremely deranged expressions. Worth a look even if beautiful handmade textiles are not your thing.

A must-see, however, is the Islamic Museum which contains a breathtaking scale model of the State Mosque of Sarawak which can hold 8,000 in the main hall alone.

Muslims arrived in this region many centuries ago and the museum contains a stone discovered in 1902 after a flood which, in Arabic writing but in the Malay language, cites some extremely severe Islamic laws and the punishments for transgressors. It is believed to be from the mid 15th century.

There are rooms containing menacing weaponry, gorgeous decorative arts such as intricately carved wooden boxes, various handwritten copies of the Quran in that beautifully mysterious script (one so small it fits in the palm, another so large it would take two people to lift), models and photos of impressive Islamic architecture, costumes…it’s something to see, and mercifully cool on a humid day.

The Chinese Museum near the river, and beside the Brooke Bistro, is in an old Chinese court building established

by Charles Brooke (James’ nephew who inherited the Rajah title). It may be small but it economically outlines the waves of Chinese migrants – mostly miners and farmers before the shopkeepers came – who have made this area their home, bringing with them over a dozen dialects.

But we cannot live by culture alone, and within walking distance of these places are sophisticated malls, the shops along India Street crammed with everything from electronic goods to colourful fabrics, cat-kitsch souvenir shops and more cheap eating places than you can imagine.

facts: Graham Reid travelled to Kuching with assistance from Tourism Malaysia and Malaysia Airlines. ➜ www.malaysiaairlines.co.nz ➜ www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my

How cheap? A plate of roast duck with soup and rice, plus two iced teas at an open-air (and admittedly run-down) Chinese place clocked in around $4. Beer is about $3 a bottle, freshly-squeezed sugared lime juice with ice along the riverwalk around $1.

No one could go to Kuching and not visit Top Spot, an open-air seafood place which is a magnet for local families and tourists alike. I’d put up serious money and bet you’ve never seen this much fresh seafood diversity anywhere.

There are a dozen or more very large places with their ice trays displaying crab, banana prawns the size of which live up to the description, fat squid, plump shrimps, sea cucumber, so many varieties of fish you couldn’t count…

If ocean-fresh seafood means anything to you, Top Spot will be a highpoint of your time in Kuching, the Cat City on the banks of the Sarawak River. With these many attractions, its proximity to Bako National Park which has exotic wildlife including Proboscis monkeys, nearby beaches and the orang-utan reserves, Kuching is worth discovering in Malaysian Borneo.

Cats, which in both Malay and Chinese culture are associated with luck, have certainly brought good fortune to the delightful, interesting and unique city – or small town, as I think of it – that is Kuching.

PACIFIC ISLANDS | SAMOA

Manuia Savai’i - Fa’afetai!

(Cheers Savai’i - Thank you!)

Words and images by Gayle Dickson

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I

t’s surprising how many travellers head to Samoa and never make it across to the “other” island, yet it’s only a short ferry trip across the water to add a whole new slant to your Samoan adventure. Savai’i is, in fact, known as the soul of Samoa.

Savai’i is large – in fact, it’s the biggest Pacific land mass outside of Hawai’i and New Zealand – and is ripe for exploring at length. The ferry will have you alighting on the eastern side of the island in Saleloga, the only real township, although you will find villages with their own general stores and petrol stations dotted throughout.

Bearing it’s size in mind, it’s a good idea to plan on being on the island for at least three days to experience all that it has to offer.

The first thing you’re likely to notice about Savai’i, particularly once you’re out of Saleloga, is that the traditional culture and way of life, Fa’a Samoa, is more prevalent here and that there are fewer signs of modern life than on Upolu.

Here, village life, customary land, extended families, elders and chiefs, and cultural etiquette are respected. When taking any organised tour, you’ll hear many legends that are paramount to the Samoan way of life.

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Most villages are situated on the coastline, with only a few dotted along the Cross Island Road through the mountainous interior where Mt Silisili stands proudly at some 1,800m. Drive slowly through the villages and you’ll notice the plantations of taro, coconuts and other fruits and vegetables that sustain the villagers. Pigs roam freely, as do the friendly dogs and children, so do pay attention at all times when driving. The people will all wave and smile as you drive by.

If it’s a caving experience you’re after, head to Peapea, the cave of bats, and to Afu Aau waterfall for a memorable swim. While inland, see if can watch the locals climbing the coconut trees and husking the coconuts. You may also get to see them making coconut cream or weaving baskets from the leaves.

The land is extremely fertile. Even around the lava fields at Saleaula Village you’ll see new life sprouting through the darkly encrusted and seemingly impenetrable land.

Take a tour of the lava fields to discover ruined churches, a virgin’s grave and lava imprints of trees. Take water with you – it’s extra hot around the lava! Plant life on the island is verdant and varied with some 500 species of flowering plants and close to 200 fern species. The purple leaves of the Dracaena plant are often used with coconut oil for traditional massages.

The coastline is dotted with palm trees and offers up slices of pure white sand, blowholes and coral reefs; the interior consists mainly of rainforests, caves and spectacular waterfalls. The waters are rich with marine life and locals are often seen casting lines or nets. On full moon nights,

PACIFIC ISLANDS | SAMOA

look out for flashes of light in the water – you’re not seeing things! It’s the locals using torchlight to attract the fish. If you see hoards of villagers flocking to the waterline, you’ll know that it’s time to harvest the Palolo Reef Worm, which apparently only appears in the waters on one day of each year. Dolphins, whales and porpoises can be spotted during their migrations, and in the wetlands surround the villages of Sato’elapei on the central north coast and Auala on the north west coast you’ll find large green sea turtles, which are kept by the locals as an eco-experience for visitors.

Surfing is good here, but it’s certainly not for novices with dangerous currents and rips around the reef breaks. The snorkelling and scuba driving are a great experience, and kayaking and stand-up paddle boarding are popular within

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Gayle flew with Virgin Samoa in their Premium Economy seats www.virginaustralia.com staying at Le Lagoto Resort & Spa ➜ www.lelagoto.ws Remember to book your passage and Business Class lounge entry on the ferry – it gets full! ➜ www.samoashipping.com ➜ www.samoa.travel

PACIFIC ISLANDS | SAMOA

facts:

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the lagoons. Fishing charters can be organised by most resorts.

Every village boasts a church – Samoans are particularly religious and you’ll soon discover that Sunday is revered as a day of rest. Nothing is open and very little happens, apart from at your hotel or resort. As always when in Samoa, be respectful of the local “rules”. Do not just wander around a village! Ask if you may and you’re likely to be welcomed in with open arms. Take off your shoes when entering their fales (homes) and, when invited to sit, do not point your feet at anyone – cross them under you or cover them up!

Whatever your preference, whether it’s inland or coastal adventure, the geological wonderland of Savai’i has a lot to offer!

The Second Time is Even Better PACIFIC ISLANDS | SAMOA

Words and images by Gayle Dickson

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A

s the ferry powered through the waters from Upolu to Savai’i, my car safely secured in her bowels and me enjoying a coffee and sandwich in the business class lounge upstairs, my mind turned to what lay ahead. As I recalled the road from the port to my accommodation near the village of Fagamalo on the northern tip, my pulse at first quickened with excitement, and then abated as I remembered the serenity I’d found at Le Lagoto.

Thankfully, upon checking in, I discovered that nothing much had changed since I was last here. The same relaxed vibe struck me straight away; the same friendly smiles beamed across the desk; I even had the same porter show me to my room.

Not that I could really call it a “room” – each accommodation is a gorgeous fale with views over a strip of lawn to the lagoon and the horizon beyond. The spacious fales are furnished in what I refer to as contemporary Samoan décor.

The interiors appear dark as you enter, but this is merely because the curtains are kept drawn to keep out the heat.

Draw them aside and the view literally assaults you through the massive panes of glass.

Each fale or bungalow is air-conditioned, offers a comfortable seating area, and boasts a queen-sized bed along with separate bathroom. You’ll also discover a fridge and tea/ coffee making area and a writing desk. Yes, there’s a television, but with those views, I felt no need to turn it on at all.

Out front is your own little patio with sun loungers.

My favourite time of day here was either first thing in the morning as I listened to the bird life slowly awakening, or last thing at night watching the last rays of sun disappear.

On this visit I had Fale 1 and I have to say that it’s a little too close to the bar and the infinity pool area for my personal liking. That said, the bar isn’t open late, and most guests have retreated to the restaurant or their own fales by a fairly reasonable hour. Given the choice, I’d far rather opt for a fale towards the spa.

Speaking of food, the menu at Vailili Restaurant was fairly extensive, with a good selection of seafood, as expected in an island nation. To my delight, the ocean

PACIFIC ISLANDS | SAMOA

lobster was on the menu – two hearty lobsters for the incredible price of 65 Tala (around NZ$35 at most!). There were vegetarian options, as well as chicken dishes and curries, not to mention great desserts and more than ample starters and side orders to select from. On Sundays enjoy the BBQ night, and on Thursdays it’s Fiafia Night with a buffet dinner.

Entertainment is provided by a nightly drum beating ceremony just on sundown, followed by a local string band who jam out well known favourites in true Samoan style.

The Sunset Spa is tucked away at the far end of the property. It may not look like a zillion bucks, but boy the treatments are divine! This girl knows her work – I caught myself snoring quite a few times, which is always a sign of a great massage! On offer are facials, massages, wraps, manicures, pedicures and waxes. It was sheer bliss to feel the tropical trade winds fanning me through the louvred windows, while the ocean crashing on the distant reef and the whirling fan overhead were the only sounds to be heard.

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With a lazy 11am check out as standard, there was plenty of time to enjoy a hearty breakfast and a last walk along the beach before I had to say my farewells and head back to the ferry terminal. Another batch of photos for the album and another fond memory to include in my repertoire. ➜ www.lelagoto.ws

Mundos Intocados…

Untouched Worlds

BEYOND | PERU

Words and images by Shane Boocock

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A

s soon as we emerged out onto the lake from the dense jungle undergrowth and sky-filtered treetop canopy, the last rays of sunlight cast a golden, syrupy glow on the outer edge of the entangled, eerie rainforest – nighttime was about to turn this part of Amazonia into a place that only animals and insects venture into.

Overhead squawky scarlet red and blue Macaws flew in groups of two and three as our canoe glided over the near flat, calm lake and two white herons stood cautiously by the roots of two palm trees on a small island. Elsewhere on the shore small yellow spotted turtles exposed themselves to the setting sun as a red beaked kingfisher popped in and out of it’s hole in a tall decaying, limbless tree trunk. By the time the sun had dipped below the horizon we had reached Sandoval Lake Lodge camouflaged on a bluff above the lake, where on dusk it was easy to hear, but not see, both Capuchin and Squirrel monkeys. Checking into the lodge I also had my first glimpse of Peru’s forest-floor rodents known as Central American Agouti, who are either various

shades of brown or olivaceous in colour, as they searched for fallen seeds and fruits.

Earlier that day our small group arrived at Puerto Maldonado, in southeastern Peru, in the heart of Amazonia… about 55 km from the Bolivian border and the capital of the Madre de Dios Region. Nearby is the Manú National Park, the 1.5 million hectares of Tambopata National Reserve, and the Bahuaja-Sonene National Park. In this part of Amazonia we discovered that virtually none of Peru’s primary, pristine rainforests have been destroyed – out here most of the jungle landmass has, as yet, never really been explored.

After transferring only our essential gear into small canvas bags for the next two days we boarded a long wooden outboard-rigged boat with a roof of bright blue tarpaulin. It was moored on the banks of the Milo-coloured confluences of the Tambopata and Madre de Dios Rivers. Thirty-five minutes later we disembarked onto a muddy riverbank at the start of a muddy track, so muddy in fact that everyone was issued with gumboots…something I refused to wear.

The track was through dense vine-hanging jungle and

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it was obvious that it had rained in the last week as the quagmire-like trail was as boot sucking as you might expect.

After about three and a half kilometres we emerged in a small clearing where some long skinny canoes were moored to a rickety wooden jetty that jutted out into a backwater slough.

The murky inlet was part of Sandoval Lake, which we had to cross to get to Sandoval Lake Lodge. In the roof of tall trees Howler monkeys moved slowly across the canopy as our guide quietly paddled the canoe forward. On the edge of the backwater a dark blue heron waded in shallow water. Suddenly the guide stopped the canoe and pointed to a fork in an overgrown tree where an elusive sloth and her baby were wedged – hardly moving – living up to their name.

Having survived the lake crossing we were soon at the lodge bar, which was a hive of activity as other groups of modern-day Amazonian explorers ordered two-for-one happy hour cocktails – jungle juice at half price. Dinner in the main communal restaurant was a smooth celery soup followed by beef and rice with a spicy sauce drizzled over slivers of beef. Dessert was a rich chocolate mousse – all very swish, yet informal. With dinner I ordered a bottle of Tacama 2011 Gran Tinto – a very satisfying way to celebrate my first day in Amazonia.

Some of the other adventurers had ordered the Peruvian national drink, Pisco Sour, made up of Peruvian brandy, a squeeze of jugo de limon, a clara de huevo (white egg), hielo (ice), and finally jarabe de goma, a syrup.

After a comfortable sleep in the well-equipped lodge, where we had the luxury of hot showers and mosquito net covered beds, our morning started with a pre-dawn walk to where the canoes were docked. As morning mist enveloped Sandoval Lake we quietly slipped away across the dank, blackness of the lake with only the sound of paddle strokes breaking the surface. The sun had yet to rise. Within minutes we came by a tree full of birds known as Hoatzin proudly displaying a distinctive head plume.

facts: In this region of Peru you are immersed in a true jungle environment, so be well prepared, it will make your Amazonia experience all the more enjoyable.

Shane Boocock travelled to Lake Sandoval courtesy of World Expeditions. For more information about their worldwide tour programs visit: ➜ www.worldexpeditions.co.nz For lightweight sturdy travelling cases look at the new range of American Tourister products that are available in New Zealand: ➜ www.americantourister.com

BEYOND | PERU

LAN Airlines operate direct daily flights to Santiago and onward thru the LATAM Airlines Group connecting flights to Peru: ➜ www.lan.com

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Then as the mist lingered just above the reflective flat calm surface of the lake a black Caiman slowly made ripples as it eased its way towards some tree branches sticking out of the water about 10 metres from the lake’s edge. These voracious freshwater Caiman can grow up to six metres in length and are considered one of the deadliest predators in South America.

Over the next two hours we encountered kingfishers, tiger herons, noisy blue and yellow macaws, green ibis, soaring vultures, Howler monkeys that refused to howl and a family of giant otter initially referred to by the first Spanish explorers as ‘River Wolves’. They grow to about two metres in length with this group of four being the only otters residing in Sandoval Lake and are designated an endangered species. Requiring about four kilograms of fish a day, an adult can weigh upwards of 30 kg.

Once breakfast had been consumed our group departed on a 90-minute walk into the rainforest. It was still early morning as the heat began levitating off the jungle floor;

a floor entwined with vines and the detritus of moss, ferns, deadwood and fallen leaves. There was a slightly disappointing lack of wildlife or birds but our guide still gave us an interesting insight into the flora and fauna along the trail as well as pointing out leaf-cutter ants, a hairy-black spider and a giant butterfly, known locally as an English Owl Butterfly.

On dusk we headed back out onto the lake. Howler monkeys, which by now were howling riotously, were spotted almost immediately as a couple of playful little blokes decided to feed on a tree full of small berries not far from where we boarded the canoes. Otherwise it was an uneventful evening with little animal activity, as the skies darkened quickly with almost complete cloud cover – in fact the bar in the lodge was more active during cocktail happy hour.

As the lodge runs on solar and generator power, electricity is only available at certain times of the day between 5-6 am, a couple of hours at lunchtime and during dinner. Once the lights are turned off at 10pm I needed a flashlight to read or see things. At some ungodly hour I woke to a scurrying sound and rustling in my room. Switching on my light I found a small rat in my wastebasket, chomping into a left over banana skin – he was asked to leave and refused, so he was unceremoniously heaved out over the balcony.

The mist had already disappeared as we returned back across the lake on our last day in Amazonia. Retracing our boggy way back on the jungle hike we finally boarded the boat on the wide, sediment-filled river for the trip back to Puerto Maldonado. All that was left was a shuttle ride to the airport, where there was even time for a cold beer before our flight out of Amazonia.

It was with regret that I departed such a wildly remote region of South America. Like many out-of-the-way places Lake Sandoval has certainly been discovered and is now a recognised tourist destination. Yet with its remoteness, it’s capacity to entice adventurous travellers is still limited.

However, make sure you include this small part of Amazonia on your Peruvian travels – on this incredible planet of ours, this place really is one of the last untouched worlds – Mundos Intocados.

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ASIA | THAILAND

By Pam Corkery

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G

iggling isn’t my normal mode. But it wasn’t my fault and was my farthest emotion after fourteen hours of flying from a Southern Hemisphere winter to Chiang Mai via Bangkok. I was hysterically tired, hot, and not much could have impressed me. I was stressed out from work, it had been a rushed departure and I was cursing myself for being seduced by the online pics of the Dhara Dhevi resort.

The limousine greeting at the airport was nice, I’ll give you that. A flash car that a man could describe, a Mercedes I think. There was chilled water, moist hand-towels and smooth carriage. I gave into a smile to be in air-conditioning and off a plane.

But that relief disappeared pretty soon into the 15-minute drive as the limo wound through streets which were getting rougher and crumbier. The fairy castle I had drooled over online couldn’t be in this ramshackle neighbourhood. It wasn’t gut-wrenching poverty, it was modest in the extreme.

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I had been to Thailand before, many years earlier, and had prepared myself for witnessing a standard of living way below my usual. This long sought after holiday was supposed to be for me as a grown-up though. Not a travelling hippy willing to sleep in a hut on the beach, looking for fun in all the wrong places.

The limo driver and his female associate – her presence was a nice touch for a woman travelling, in this case two of us, my mate and me - were engaging. Their English was fluent. I was still looking at the lean-to buildings as we rounded a corner into a narrow-ish alleyway and there it was. The Dhara Dhevi.

The giggling started. Before us were the gates to an ancient city that I could only compare with a Pixar children’s movie. There was a copybook white palace - a structure of such beauty that it was almost a dream or a bewildered flashback. There were minarets, sweeping steps, a cobbled courtyard so large it could have induced agoraphobia.

Musicians were playing traditional instruments in the distance as they tended water buffalo.

I was in the Emerald City…and the giggling grew. There was also pinching of each other, and open-mouthed wonder.

Two tired women who worked hard professionally and with family – my friend has three sons at home – giggled and gasped while our driver and colleague in the front exchanged glances of pride over their workplace.

The Dhara Dhevi is one of Thailand’s premier luxury resorts. I have holidayed well but this wasn’t just the indulgent trip I had hoped for - it was a mind trip. I was in a 13th century city…a purpose built, Lanna Kingdom-style city.

A horse-drawn carriage clip-clopped past as we were guided into the open-air foyer, decorated for maximum calm and cool, with proportionately enormous yet low key pieces of antique Thai furniture. It was opulent and grand without being forbidding.

The gentle instructions from staff continued as we were robbed of responsibility – in a good way. Sit down here on this shaded chaise, have a cup of cleansing iced tea, we will come to you for check-in paperwork. No rush, no standing at a counter, just relax.

These beautiful people, with humour and laughter, would be the backdrop to our stay. They were ninjas crossed with clairvoyants. When I thought I might want something, it was there. Every need anticipated without being cloying.

Into a golf cart next and down the streets of the 60 hectare resort, past rice fields, vegetable gardens, subtle signage to the famous Dhara Dhevi Spa and Wellness Centre – one of the main attractions for us - to swimming pools and a fitness centre; all of which were authentic and state of the art respectively.

What the hell would our accommodation be like? The voice of doubt surfaced again; it surely couldn’t be as luxurious as the online preview. We had chosen to go traditional - a two-storeyed teak-wood villa. There is a colonial wing more designed for people on their own, or for those who prefer more Western-style luxury and being a hop-skip to the main restaurants and bars.

facts:

51/4 Chiang Mai-Sankampaeng Road, Moo 1, T.Tasala, A. Muang, Chiang Mai 50000, Thailand P: + 66 53 888 888. E:enquiry@dharadhevi.com

ASIA | THAILAND

➜ www.dharadhevi.com ➜ www.tourismthailand.org

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There are also ultra-private signature residences used by honeymooners, or groups of up to six who want an enclosure within the ‘city’, or those with a public profile who want to safely chill out.

We were given our key and said our goodbyes in as dignified a manner as possible. Then we ran around like schoolgirls, opening doors and shouting out to each other.

There’s a sauna room, there’s an indoor whirlpool bath, there’s an outdoor whirlpool bath! Overlooking the rice fields! Have a lie on these beds. I love these beds. Two huge bathrooms, perfect for women. A hidey-hole office housed super-connectivity Internet wifi. The top end TVs and DVD players somehow didn’t clash. Look at the fully

kitted out kitchen. Then look away again…there would be no cooking on this holiday.

I had a To Do list for sight-seeing. With apologies to Chiang Mai, I only ticked off one. I went into the vibrant but somehow easy-paced city to get new specs (at a ridiculously low price) mainly because I hadn’t had time in my normal life. I didn’t want normal life on this trip.

So it was the Spa and Wellness Centre for a gentle and thorough Ayurvedic meets traditional Thai healing estimate of my bodily needs. I spilled my life to an enigmatic practitioner about indigestion, headaches and other complaints that needn’t be shared. A prescription of treatments was set out for me, including meditation training.

Breakfast turned out to be part of my therapy, too. Not that it was a Spartan diet - just healthy, fresh, with all the fruit and vegetables grown at the resort, and so delicious.

We also discovered the Dhara Dhevi Cake Shop, which was diabetes on a plate. We didn’t care! To offset cake guilt, there were bicycles; old-school looking, but modern bikes with the basket on the front and a bell.

Whizzing around the quiet lanes of the Dhara Dhevi “ancient city” to get to the Spa, the swimming pools, the restaurants, the library or the shopping centre within the walls of the city, we giggled again and again.

Every now and then, when life gets disproportionately stressful, I can easily access that feeling. I’m sure it is disconcerting for friends and strangers when I start up smiling then giggling. It’s my secret Dhara Dhevi giggle which has added to my capacity for tolerating the sorrows, and celebrating the joys, that are normal life. I came away reluctantly but grateful.

PACIFIC ISLANDS | PAPUA NEW GUINEA

Conflict? What Conflict?

Words and images by Marisa Howden

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M

ost people who are familiar with the South Pacific have come to expect tropical island paradises unparallelled in beauty. They frequent these islands for a sun-drenched break, whether it be Hawaii, for its beaches, or Tahiti for its crystal clear waters.

Few might think of Papua New Guinea when it comes to their South Pacific holiday, and even fewer would know of the Conflict Islands. A lucky handful might!!!

Located in PNG’s Milne Bay Province, approximately 90 minutes from Port Moresby, the Conflict Islands are a privately owned atoll of 21 islands that span across a picturesque lagoon drowning in pale blue waters and white sandy beaches.

Named after the survey ship that discovered them in 1886, these islands remain untouched amongst the Coral Sea’s pristine environment. And when I say untouched, I mean the purest sand that will ever brush your feet, the clearest waters that you will ever gaze over and above all the most diverse and abundant marine life you will ever experience.

Encouraged by the constant movement of the surrounding Bismark, Coral and Solomon Seas, there is a stunning array of over 3,800 sea-life species to be discovered in New Guinea, with the Conflict Islands home to over half of them. These waters are thought to have twice as many marine species as the Red Sea and up to ten times as many as the Caribbean, making it the most diverse marine location on the planet.

The marine life here is so rich that diving these waters is like an out-of-body experience. Every dive is a discovery of new species I had not seen before, from tiny pygmy seahorses to more than 15 types of Clown Fish.

And the colours…the magnificent colours. It’s like an iridescent rainbow swallowed the ocean and spat it back out to create a Dali-esque landscape of reef. Giant Gorgonian’s, otherwise known as sea fans, illuminate the waters in vivid shades of purple and pink. Bright Feather Star corals, with their fiery shades of yellow, orange, and red sit side by side never-ending fields of Cabbage Coral, which look more like life sized rosebuds ready to swallow you whole.

PACIFIC ISLANDS | PAPUA NEW GUINEA 25

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As these elaborate reefs sway with the currents of the ocean, thousands of fish engulf me, giving me an insight into what life in an aquarium would feel like. Schools of silver barracuda glide along gracefully, eyeing off dinner with their razor sharp teeth.

Herds of batfish sit above the masses, quietly looking down as if they’re holding court and deliberating on how to keep order amongst their dynamic eco-system. Friendly Nemos (a.k.a. Clown Fish) dance amongst Stony Corals as cheeky Green Sea Turtles cruise along without a worry in the world.

As I remained spellbound by the colours and swarms of fish I feel moved to know such vibrant marine life still exists.

It’s touching to see a part of nature that is still so preserved, untouched by man and thriving with life, which I guess could be said about most of Papua New Guinea. Not only does life thrive below the water, but the country is filled with a plentiful mix of dynamic cultures and languages that have remained at the heart of the people for thousands of years.

With more than 1,100 cultures and 800 languages, Papua New Guinea remains one of the most culturally unique and untouched countries in the world. In the remote villages, visitors will find tribes that passionately maintain traditions through art, initiations and Sing Sings.

A Sing Sing, expressing customary dance, music and traditional costume, provides the opportunity for visitors to witness tribal traditions in an explosion of colour and sound.

Luckily enough and by special request, you can experience these unique traditions while at the Conflict Islands, which for me, was one of the most rewarding experiences of the whole trip.

Since the islands remain uninhabited, local villages from the neighbouring Misima and Brooker Islands travel for more than 50 miles by traditional sailing canoes, (using only the stars at night to navigate) in order to share their unique customs with us.

Known as the Liak Saga Group, the intricate detail that is showcased through their dances and costumes is astounding. In this particular region, both men and women wear skirts made of dried palm fronds with strings of woven leaves draped across their upper bodies. White feathered hats in different shapes and sizes sit atop their heads with detailed face paintings used to distinguish the men from the women.

Kundu drums, a national emblem of Papua New Guinea, provide the music for the dance, sounding off a rhythmic beat that the tribe carefully keeps in step with. Deep chanting and shrill cries resonate loudly, piercing your soul with rich culture roots.

PACIFIC ISLANDS | PAPUA NEW GUINEA

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Cultural experiences like these are just one of the many things that can be arranged during your stay, with the 21 islands becoming your own piece of paradise for play.

Featuring an exclusive resort that caters for only 12 guests, your every need will be attended to while at the Conflicts, with the resort offering an array of activities, including snorkelling, fishing and island tours. The ecological environments differ across each island, giving way to natural rainforests, stunning tropical gardens and array of bird life just waiting to be discovered.

For those who aren’t into donning a full scuba suit, there’s incredible snorkelling just off the main beach on Panasesa Island. Being an atoll formed from a volcano, the Conflict Islands are surrounded by deep troughs, clear waters and good ocean currents, making them ideal for snorkelling. Millions of fish feed off the rich currents that pass through the lagoon, with beautiful corals accessible just metres from shore.

This fish population stretches far beyond tropical coral fish, making the Conflict’s an ideal spot for sport fishing.

If you’re lucky like us, you might be eating fresh yellow fin, coral trout or Spanish mackerel for dinner cooked to your liking by your own private chef, but it all depends on whether the fish are biting (and if you’re reeling them in).

With so much on offer including untouched marine and wild life, lush rainforests, rich traditions and the world’s best diving; it’s a wonder that more people aren’t flocking to PNG’s shores. The abundance of life here, both below and above the water, is breathtaking. Knowing I’m one of the few to experience the true beauty of Papua New Guinea and its pristine Conflict Islands is just the icing on my tropical island cake. ➜ www.papuanewguinea.travel

D N U O R G Y A L P E R U T N E ADV

!

R O O D T X E N T RIGH

AN

L L I W S T H G I L F I N I IUG N R I A T C E R I D S! W R U O H ...NE 3 N A H T S ES L N I E R E H T U O Y HAVE Rabaul

Travel destinations don’t come more diverse than Papua New Guinea .

A cultural epicentre – explore Rabaul and Kokopo, and learn about their incredible WWII history. Dive amongst WWII wrecks, get up close and personal with a live volcano and hot springs, or take a short boat ride to white sandy beaches on the Duke of York islands.

Cairns

PNG Tourism Promotion Authority

To book Cairns-Rabaul packages contact: PNG Holidays www.pngholidays.com Email: adventures@pngholidays.com.au Phone: 1300 36 88 55

By Rob McFarland

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Freedom Trail Boston played a pivotal role in the American Revolution, in which thirteen North American colonies broke free from the British Empire. You can learn more about the city’s involvement by walking the Freedom trail, a 4.8-kilometre brick-lined route that winds past 16 of the city’s most historically significant sites. While you can tackle the trail on your own, I’d recommend joining one of the free 60-minute tours led by a National Parks Ranger that start at the Faneuil Hall Visitor Center.

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U.S.A. | MASSACHUSETTS

20 reasons to visit Boston

H

istorically, Boston is one of the most important cities in the US. It was the setting for many of the key events during the American Revolution and it played an important role in the abolition of slavery. Thankfully, it’s not a place to rest on its historical laurels. Today you’ll find a thriving restaurant scene, a fantastic range of cultural offerings and some of the friendliest sports-mad locals you’ll ever meet. Here are twenty reasons to visit.

➜ www.nps.gov/bost/forteachers/rangerguided.htm

Boston Symphony Considered one of the top five orchestras in the US, the Boston Symphony performs in the elegant surrounds of the Symphony Hall, a US National Historic Landmark that has some of the best acoustics in the country. Also worth checking out is the Boston Pops, an orchestra offshoot that plays popular classics around Spring and Christmas.

Discounted $US20 tickets are often available for the under-40s. ➜ www.bso.org Neptune Oyster Boston is justifiably famous for its seafood and this tiny gem in the suburb of North End is the place to sample it. Start with oysters from the raw bar, move onto the clam chowder (made fresh to order) and finish with a roll crammed full of succulent Maine lobster. The buttermilk Johnnycake – a heavenly combination of honey butter, smoked trout tartare and little pearl caviar – may just be the best thing I’ve ever tasted. ➜ www.neptuneoyster.com

Tour of Harvard University When Harvard was first established in 1636, students could barter for their tuition fees with livestock. Nowadays it costs $US 57,000 per semester. It’s not hard to see the appeal, though. Not only is the campus a sanctuary of manicured lawns and red-brick dorms, but, according to Forbes, Harvard has produced more billionaires than any other Ivy League school. Free 60-minute student-led tours run regularly from the Harvard Information Centre. ➜ www.harvard.edu/visitors/tours

U.S.A. | MASSACHUSETTS ➜ www.bostonducktours.com

The Black Heritage Trail While Boston’s involvement in the American Revolution tends to get all the glory, there was another struggle in which the city played a major role. Massachusetts was one of the first states to abolish slavery and you can explore the lives of the city’s community of free 19th-century African Americans by following the Black Heritage Trail. Again, it can be tackled as a self-guided tour or you can join one of the regular National Parks Ranger-led walks. ➜ www.afroammuseum.org/trail.htm

Museum of Fine Arts Housed in an impressive neo-classical granite building on Huntingdon Avenue, the Museum of Fine Arts holds nearly 450,000 works of art, including an impressive collection of ancient Egyptian artefacts as well as 18th and 19th century American art. Highlights from the latter include John Singer Sargent’s The Daughters of Edward Darley Boit and John Singleton Copley’s portrait of patriot Paul Revere. ➜ www.mfa.org

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Duck Tour Spending 90 minutes in a bright pink amphibious truck being quacked at by passers-by might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but this entertaining tour is a great way to see the city. Narrated by a fictional costumed character from the Revolution (in my case Paul Reverse, who got on his horse backwards and reversed out of town), the tour ticks off the main land-based attractions before plunging into the Charles River for an aquatic perspective.

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Boston Tea Party Museum Kids, in particular, will enjoy the Boston Tea Party Museum, which provides an interactive version of the events that led to 342 crates of English tea being tossed into Boston Harbour on December 16, 1773. An entertaining band of costumed characters lead visitors in a re-enactment of the raid and a series of films and special effects help to make the history more palatable for little ones. ➜ www.bostonteapartyship.com

Liberty Hotel Formerly the Charles Street Jail, this imposing granite building was transformed into a 300-room luxury hotel in 2007. Even if you don’t stay here, it’s worth a visit to marvel at the hotel’s towering 27m high atrium, which still features the jail’s original catwalks and circular hand-blown glass windows. The jail theme continues in the hotel’s restaurant, Clink, and its bar, Alibi, which is lined with photos of celebrity offenders such as Frank Sinatra and Mickey Rooney. ➜ www.libertyhotel.com Cheers Bar Who wouldn’t want to visit a bar where everybody knows your name? There are actually two Cheers venues in Boston: the “Original” on Beacon Street, which was used for the exterior shots in the famous TV series, but which looks nothing like it inside, and the “Replica” in Faneuil Hall, which looks a little more like it inside but nothing like it outside.

At both you’ll find a wide range of beers, bar food and more Cheers memorabilia than you could possibly imagine. ➜ www.cheersboston.com

Museum of Science With its planetarium, IMAX cinema and dinosaur exhibits, the Museum of Science is a big hit with little ones. An unexpected surprise is that it’s also home to more than 100

Making your way in the world today takes everything you’ve got Taking a break from all your worries, sure would help a lot Wouldn’t you like to get away?

Sometimes you want to go Where everybody knows your name, and they’re always glad you came.

You wanna be where you can see, our troubles are all the same You wanna be where everybody knows Your name (Excerpt of the Theme song from the TV show Cheers…1982 – 1993) animals, many of which make live appearances in a busy program of daily presentations. Adults will find plenty to keep them amused too with simulator rides, a 3-D digital cinema and the world’s largest Van de Graaff generator. ➜ www.mos.org

Fenway Park Ideally you should see a game at “America’s Most Beloved Ballpark”, home of the Boston Red Sox since 1912. But given every home game has sold out since 2003, you might have to settle for a guided tour instead. Hour-long tours run every day on the hour from 10am-5pm and cover off the park’s most famous features, including the Lone Red Seat (signifying the longest home run ever hit) and The Green Monster, a daunting 11-metre-high wall that lines left field. ➜ boston.redsox.mlb.com

USS Constitution First launched in 1797, the three-masted USS Constitution is the world’s oldest commissioned warship still afloat. Her greatest triumph came during the war of 1812 when she defeated four British frigates, earning herself the nickname “Old Ironsides” because cannon balls glanced off her reinforced wooden hull. Free guided tours paint an evocative picture of life onboard…men would work for 20 hours a day and eat biscuits the consistency of hockey pucks. Photo ID required. ➜ www.history.navy.mil/ussconstitution

➜ www.bostonusa.com ➜ www.discoveramerica.com

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➜ www.modernpastry.com

Boston Public Garden Built in 1837, Boston Public Garden was America’s first public botanical garden. A beguiling montage of lakes, fountains and monuments, it remains an idyllic space in which to while away an afternoon. Visit in summer and you can enjoy a peaceful paddle in one of the lake’s famous Swan Boats. The garden is also home to some notable sculptures, including an imposing statue of George Washington and a cute parade of bronze ducks inspired by a local children’s story. ➜ www.cityofboston.gov/parks JFK Presidential Library and Museum It’s a bit of a trek to the JFK library in the suburb of Dorchester, but you’ll be rewarded with a fitting tribute to the 35th President of the United States. Not only is the building the official repository for the Kennedy Administration’s original papers and correspondence, but it also has the world’s largest collection of Ernest Hemingway archival materials (JFK was a fan) plus a fascinating exhibit on the space race that would prove to be one of his greatest legacies. ➜ www.jfklibrary.org Samuel Adams Brewery Tour There’s debate as to whether American revolutionary Samuel Adams ever brewed any beer, but that hasn’t stopped the Boston Beer Company using his name for its popular range of craft beers. To learn more about the brewing process take a highly entertaining 60-minute tour of the factory, which includes three tastings (providing you’re 21 or over). There’s no fee, just a suggested $US2 charity donation, and no reservations, so arrive early. ➜ www.samueladams.com

Walk the Greenway Recognised as the largest and most technologically challenging highway project in US history, The Big Dig rerouted Interstate 93, the main artery through the heart of Boston, into a 5.6 km long tunnel. While the project was plagued by escalating costs and schedule overruns, one

facts:

tangible benefit was the creation of the Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy Greenway, a 1.5 km long ribbon of landscaped parks and plazas that stretches from Chinatown to North End. ➜ www.rosekennedygreenway.org Enjoy the view For an aerial perspective of the city, it’s hard to beat the 360-degree views from the Skywalk Observatory on the 50th floor of the Prudential Center. There are telescopes for zooming in on your favourite attractions plus acoustic guides and interactive exhibits for some historical flavour.

If the $US14 admission seems a little steep, you can get a similarly beguiling panorama from the observation deck on the 26th floor of the Marriot’s Custom House Hotel for a $US3 donation. ➜ www.skywalkboston.com Beacon Hill This irresistibly quaint neighbourhood features narrow streets lined with handsome red-brick townhouses and Victorian-style gas lamps. Explore the galleries, boutiques and cafés along Charles Street before strolling up the hill to admire the Massachusetts State House, an imposing federal-style building topped with an impressive gold-leaf covered dome. Be sure to check out the bronze relief memorial to Robert Gould Shaw and the all-black 54th Massachusetts Infantry Regiment opposite. It’s considered to be one of the finest sculptures in the country. ➜ www.beaconhillonline.com

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The writer travelled as a guest of Brand USA and the Greater Boston Convention & Visitors Bureau Getting there: Qantas flies to Boston via Los Angeles and Dallas Fort/Worth www.qantas.com.au

U.S.A. | MASSACHUSETTS

Mike’s Pastry Located in the heart of North End, Mike’s Pastry has been baking fresh Italian pastries for 50 years. It’s famous for its cannoli, a fried pastry tube filled with ricotta cheese, and you’ll find a dizzying selection of flavours ranging from Limoncello to Oreo to Amaretto. If the queue’s too long, try Modern Pastry down the road. Don’t tell Mike but some locals prefer it. ➜ www.mikespastry.com or

BEYOND | ENGLAND

London Calling

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With London home to three of the Rugby World Cup 2015 stadiums - Wembley Stadium, the London Olympic Stadium and Twickenham (the largest venue in the world dedicated solely to the sport) rugby fever is sure to be in full flow when fans arrive in the British capital for the greatest event in the rugby calendar.

T

o give rugby fans the best introduction to London, we briefly look back on the city’s 2,000 years of incredible history and highlight the best things to see, do and experience while you’re in the UK capital.

London’s potential was first spotted by the Romans in 43 AD. “Londinium”, as London was known then, had everything needed to make a successful trading post and quickly started to thrive. But a few years later, around 60 AD when the northern Iceni tribe (led by the warrior queen (Boadicea) marched south to London following a power struggle, the city was burnt to the ground and almost entirely destroyed.

The Romans quickly re-established control and decided to build a wall around the city to protect it from future invasions. Fifty years later, London had become by far the largest and most influential city in Britain. The remains of the wall, which survived and was extended to the West in the 1270s, can still be seen today in the grounds of the Museum of London, in Barbican and around Tower Hill.

Today, London is one of the most culturally vibrant cities in the world. It is home to 170 museums, including 3 of the top 10 museums in the world, more than 850 art galleries and 4 UNESCO world heritage sites (The Tower of London, Maritime Greenwich, Westminster Palace and Kew’s Royal Botanical Gardens). Around 250 festivals take place each year, including Europe’s biggest street festival…The Notting Hill Carnival.

It is also highly cosmopolitan, with over 300 languages spoken every day, more than any other city in the world.

On top of its cultural offer, London is a rugby lover’s paradise as the home of Twickenham Stadium. A must see is the World Rugby Museum

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Armani Hotel, London The 1912 building, designed by Aston Webb, was intended as a ceremonial passage from Trafalgar Square to Buckingham Palace but will soon become England’s newest designer hotel. The Grade I listed building was commissioned by Edward VII in memory of his mother, Queen Victoria. ➜ www.armanihotels.com/en/index.html

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Pod Hotel, London Floors 3 - 7 of the Trocadero will be turned into a Tokyo-style ‘pod’ hotel. The 495 bed (pod) hotel will provide windowless rooms emulating those of a luxury cruise ship. Each room will be beautifully styled with high quality finishes; including a full double sized bed; ensuite high tech bathroom and more. The hotel will feature a destination rooftop bar and restaurant for the exclusive use of guests providing breath-taking views of the London skyline.

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Nobu Hotel, London Master sushi chef, Nobu Matsuhisa, is planning his first European hotel in Shoreditch. The new hotel has been designed by Ron Arad Associates and will house 143 bedrooms and a statement restaurant: a dramatic five metre high space in the basement. The five storey hotel includes its own garden. ➜ www.nobuhospitality.com

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The Peninsula, London The luxury global chain has announced plans to open its first ever UK property in London. Located in Belgravia, steps away from Hyde Park and Buckingham Palace, the new hotel will be in a prime location to explore the capital’s culture rich spots. This will add to the hotel’s ‘cultural learning experience’ with their in-house academy programmes, designed to offer destination insight. ➜ www.peninsula.com

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InterContinental Greenwich The 452-room property, which will be known as the InterContinental London The O2, will stand at 19 storeys high. The five-star hotel will feature Europe’s largest pillar-free ballroom, a health spa, several restaurants and a panoramic ‘Sky Bar’ with views of Canary Wharf and the River Thames. ➜ www.intercontinental.com

Rugby World Cup 2015. England.

11 host cities, 48 matches, 20 nations, over 44 days.

September 18 - October 31, 2015

Visit England and be part of the game. www.VisitEngland.com/RugbyWorldcup

BEYOND | ENGLAND

➜ www.visitlondon.com

Check out these 5 new hotels that will be opening in 2015…

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at Twickenham, which houses the finest collection of rugby memorabilia in the world (just ignore the England shirts if that’s not your team of choice). More than just a collection of interesting artefacts, the World Rugby Museum is an inspirational journey through the history of the ultimate team game.

Of course, no rugby fans visit to England is complete without a trip to a good old “local” and The Cabbage Patch pub, just a stone’s throw from Twickenham Stadium, has earned something of a reputation among rugby fans. A delightful venue in its own right, The Cabbage Patch has an excellent menu, outstanding ales and an enviable selection of single malts. If you fancy a quick run while you’re in town head to Richmond Park where a section of grassland to the north of Roehampton Gate is maintained and laid out for rugby.

The stunning Richmond Park is also a great vantage point to see the skyline of London from a distance.

Home to centuries of history, worldfamous architecture, a plethora of free museums and art galleries and more top-notch restaurants than you can shake a fork at; London is arguably the greatest city in the world.

Make sure you do these things when you visit one of my all time favourite world’s best cities.

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An open-top bus tour is a great way of taking in the iconic attractions in one sitting, helping you to get your bearings and then revisit at your leisure.

BEYOND | ENGLAND

➜ www.theoriginaltour.com

Tower of London The dark side of London’s past is on show behind the battlements of The Tower of London. It’s official name is – Her Majesty’s Royal Palace and Fortress. Founded towards the end of 1066, it was built by William the Conqueror.

The White Tower was built in 1078 and was a symbol of oppression by the then new ruling elite. It was also used as a prison from 1100 (when Ranulf Flambard was a “guest”) right up until 1952, when the Kray twins resided within her walls. ➜ www.hrp.org.uk/TowerofLondon

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St Paul’s Cathedral St Paul’s is London’s cathedral. The present Cathedral, the masterpiece of Britain’s most famous architect Sir Christopher Wren, is at least the fourth to have stood on the site. It was built between 1675 and 1710, after its predecessor was destroyed in the Great Fire of London, and services began in 1697. ➜ www.stpauls.co.uk

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Tate Modern Just the other side of the river you’ll find the Tate Modern. A gallery that is not your traditional type of gallery for ‘Old London Town’. Entry is free (except for special exhibitions). ➜ www.tate.org.uk/visit/tate-modern

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Bird’s Eye Views With the opening of The Shard London now has two iconic viewing platforms, both of which are a Must Do! The Shard is a skyscraper that is instantaneously recognisable and has already been described as London’s new emblem.

The viewing deck is on the 72nd floor. ➜ www.theviewfromtheshard.com

The London Eye, which opened early March 2000, and stands 443 feet high (around 135 metres). It is described as the World’s tallest cantilevered observation wheel.

Pre-booking on-line will save you quite a few £s. ➜ www.londoneye.com

The London Dungeons The original Dungeons opened in 1974 and has been a popular attraction in London ever since. In 2013 they moved from their old abode in Tooley Street to a new location near to The London Eye. The Dungeons recreates various gory and macabre historical events using a mixture of live actors, special effects and rides. ➜ www.thedungeons.com/london

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The National Gallery Founded in 1824 this masterpiece of British architecture stands proud in Trafalgar Square.

It is home to some 2,300 paintings – some dating back as far as the mid-13th century. ➜ www.nationalgallery.org.uk

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Many, many more things to do…

Kew Gardens, Piccadilly Circus, Jack the Ripper Tour, Lords Cricket Ground and of course Twickenham…which will host the RWC final on the 31st October 2015 ➜ www.visitengland.com

PACIFIC ISLANDS | COOK ISLANDS

Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa

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ands down, Aitutaki is the most beautiful place I have ever seen in my life” so said M.J. Day, Senior Editor of U.S. Sports Illustrated during the magazine’s 50th Anniversary Swimsuit Edition shoot at Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa. This exclusive 5-star adults-only resort is the ONLY resort set directly on the expansive magnificence of the World’s Most Beautiful Lagoon…Aitutaki.

Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa – a favourite with celebrities searching for an uber-romantic hideaway - is also the only resort in the Cook Islands to offer exclusive Overwater Bungalows, and the only private island resort in the Cooks as well, listed by US ‘ISLANDS’ magazine as one of the World’s 12 Best Private Island Resorts.

Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa is perfect for weddings and now offers the DREAMTIME ARURU INCLUSIVE Wedding Package with 5 nights Premium Beachfront Bungalow accommodation for the bride & groom + Aruru wedding ceremony + wedding reception (3-course Set Menu for 10 guests) + 3hr beverage package for 10 guests + wedding cake – all for only NZ$5,999!

Recent guests had this to say about their stay at Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa: “WOW! If you are interested in staying in Aitutaki then this is the place! Forget about the amazingly friendly staff, beautiful food and the luxuriously beautiful rooms!

This resort is perched right on the edge of the most breathtaking lagoon I have ever laid eyes on! Every year we travel to a different tropical island (e.g Maldives, Fiji ,Vanuatu, Bora Bora etc ) and this is the only one we want to come back to. Get a lagoon view room so you can wake up to 57sq kms of crystal clear aqua blue lagoon. There is cheaper and more expensive but none more beautiful.”

The resort recently enjoyed a multi-million transformation and is sister resort to 4.5 star adults-only resort, Sanctuary Rarotonga-on the beach, making for wonderful Twin-Island Combo escapes including both Rarotonga and Aitutaki islands – ask about the resorts incredible new Inclusive Combo packages! Pure heaven. Fly to the Cook Islands directly from Los Angeles, Auckland or Sydney.

Breakaway to Paradise

Stay at Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa for 3 nights with breakfast, domestic flights & transfers from $1469* Per person, twin share. Flights from NZ to Rarotonga are additional.

0800 15 80 80

unitedtravel.co.nz

*Conditions apply. Sale valid until 20 Dec 2014 unless sold out prior. Includes flights from Rarotonga to Aitutaki. Flights from NZ to Rarotonga are additional. Travel 1 Nov-19 Dec 2014 & 12 Jan-31 Mar 2015. Includes Tropical breakfast. Prices per person twin share, in NZD & subject to availability. Travel agent service fees not included. Prices correct at printing & subject to change without notice. Based on payment by cash or EFTPOS only. Please contact us for full conditions. UT2142D

PACIFIC ISLANDS | COOK ISLANDS

Crown Beach Resort & Spa

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elcome to your own private haven set on 5 acres of stunning beachfront, nesting only thirty six exclusive villas supported by two restaurants and bars, daily room service and turndown with flowers and candles, mini-gym, concierge, gift shop, guest laundry, spa & wellness centre, mini-supermarket, conference centre, yoga room, and tropical gardens anchored by exotic palms and colourful hibiscus blooms.

The white sand beach leads you to a stunning turquoise lagoon that teems with colourful fish and coral that forms a snorkeller’s paradise. Daily spectacular sunsets call for one of many potent cocktails on offer from our experienced mixologists.

Daily live entertainment ensures your dinners are nourishing, romantic and melodious as you feast on fine Pacific cuisine with subtle hints of Asia, the Americas and the Antipodes.

You will be taken care of by a team of Cook Islanders who exude genuine care and love straight from the heart: Warm. Unpretentious. Island Style. You will leave refreshed, revived, and totally at peace with yourself and your partner.

Crown Beach Resort & Spa is exclusively designed for lovers who seek a perfect peaceful haven to reconnect with one another.

Relax & Unwind

Stay at Crown Beach Resort & Spa for 5 nights in a villa with breakfast & transfers from $1329* Per person, twin share. Flights are additional.

0800 15 80 80

unitedtravel.co.nz

*Conditions apply. Sale valid until 20 Dec 2014 unless sold out prior. Flights are additional. Travel 25 Aug-23 Dec 2014 & 2 Jan-31 Mar 2015. Prices per person twin share, in NZD & subject to availability. Travel agent service fees not included. Prices correct at printing & subject to change without notice. Events beyond our control may result in price variations. Based on payment by cash or EFTPOS only. Product supplied by suppliers with their own conditions, please contact us for full conditions. UT2142B

PACIFIC ISLANDS | COOK ISLANDS

Nautilus Resort

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pening for guests on the 1st October 2014 on the South Pacific’s crystalline sands of Muri Beach is the Cook Islands’ newest small luxury resort…

Nautilus Resort. Each of the 38 Polynesian inspired luxuriously appointed private hotel suites and 2 & 3 bedroom villas will have their own salt water plunge pool, will be traditionally constructed buildings and contemporary but will have island inspired luscious-tropical interiors.

Just 20 minutes by road from Rarotonga’s international airport, Nautilus will offer a fresh new experience to the Cook Islands luxury full service resort offering. Redefining laid back luxury, and created for resort or exclusive use, Nautilus is ideal for families, couples, celebratory parties and wedding gatherings.

Nautilus is dedicated to those who want a modern yet authentic South Pacific experience.

All dining options offer views over the infinity pool to white sand beaches and sapphire ocean waters. Choose from the beachfront restaurant Nautilus Restaurant or beachside patio dining, celebratory marquees, private celebratory, meeting dining quarters or personal room and/or beach service. Showcasing Polynesian signature tastes, the cuisine is Polynesian – European fusion, using

local seasonal ingredients and produce, with, of course, an emphasis on harvest from the sea.

All villas are fully air-conditioned, have sculptured private baths and use aromatic natural toiletries. The resort has been architecturally designed and built with ecological authenticity. Solar power, UV treated and filtered drinking water, full recycling systems and edible organic gardens make this the most forward thinking luxury eco build in the Cook Islands to date.

And there is a full concierge service and some very surprising experiences uniquely designed for Nautilus guests with in resort and local activities. Guests also enjoy a dedicated Polynesian spa and ‘Kids Concierge’…all on site.

Escape to Luxury Stay at Nautilus Resort for 5 nights, tropical breakfast & transfers from $1359* Per person, twin share. Flights are additional.

0800 15 80 80

unitedtravel.co.nz

*Conditions apply. Sale valid until 20 Dec 2014 unless sold out prior. Flights additional. Travel 1 Nov-23 Dec 2014 & 4 Jan-31 Mar 2015. Prices per person twin share, in NZD & subject to limited availability. Travel agent service fees not included. Prices correct at printing & subject to change without notice. Cancellation fees apply. Events beyond our control may result in price variations. Based on payment by cash or EFTPOS only. Please contact us for full conditions. UT2142C

ometimes a holiday is all about removing yourself from the real world to a place where total privacy in peaceful surroundings simply soothes the soul.

Imagine warm crystal clear waters gently rippling over white coral sands surrounding the private decks of the luxurious beachfront villas. Sea Change’s beachfront villas are very private and have been situated to provide breathtaking views of the lagoon from both living and sleeping areas. With step down access to the beach and romantic four poster beds, these casually elegant, spacious and highly appointed villas offer all the modern conveniences and boast complete indulgence.

Just a short stroll across from the beach are the equally luxurious lagoon view villas which are nestled amongst fruit trees and luscious gardens. The lagoon view villas enjoy stunning views out to the tropical lagoon and the aquarium full of fish which await.

Lagoon view executive villas with gorgeous seascape views to the reef and Pacific Ocean have the added luxury of their own games room. These spacious and luxurious villas are perfect for two couples travelling together or a teenage family, offering a real “home away from home” with plenty of room to relax and enjoy.

Each villa at Sea Change boasts its own private fresh water swimming pool and is surrounded by large private decks and tropical gardens ensuring complete privacy whilst relaxing in peaceful surroundings.

Every conceivable luxury is provided for guests within each of the beautifully designed villas including full kitchen, TV with a home theatre system, king size beds, air conditioning and spacious bathrooms…all fully en-suited.

There is also available for guest use, kayaks, bicycles, stand up paddle boards and snorkelling equipment, along with Satellite TV, IPOD/MP3 docking stations, wireless internet, guest laundry facilities and BBQ area.

Your personal driver will meet you on arrival from your international flight, adorned you with a fragrant floral ei and whisk you away in a private VIP executive car. A hearty welcome breakfast pack, a bottle of wine and beers are all provided on a complimentary basis on arrival.

With an emphasis on providing a very high level of personal five star customer service the complete Sea Change experience will ensure you have a truly memorable luxury stay in Rarotonga. Sea Change is about rest and relaxation in fabulous private surroundings blending seamlessly into a stunning piece of South Pacific Paradise.

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PACIFIC ISLANDS | COOK ISLANDS

Sea Change Villas

Romantic Hideaway Stay at Seachange Villas for 5 nights in a villa with a private pool & transfers from $1129* Per person, twin share. Flights are additional.

0800 15 80 80

unitedtravel.co.nz

*Conditions apply. Sale valid until 20 Dec 2014 unless sold out prior. Flights are additional. Travel 1 Nov 2014- 31 Mar 2015. Prices per person twin share, in NZ dollars & subject to limited availability. Travel agent service fees not included. Prices correct at printing & subject to change without notice. Cancellation fees apply. Events beyond our control may result in price variations. Based on payment by cash or EFTPOS only. Product supplied by suppliers with their own conditions, please contact us for full conditions. UT2142A

Cloud 9

PACIFIC ISLANDS | FIJI

A paradise to remember

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tep aboard this first-of-its-kind two-level floating paradise and experience something unique, special and unprecedented.

Imagine stepping foot onto a floating paradise located in one of the most beautiful off-shore reef lagoons in the South Pacific; surrounded by pristine aqua-blue waters, coral reefs abundant in wildlife and 360-degree panoramic views of Fiji’s incredible horizon.

Moored in Ro Ro reef amongst Fiji’s beautiful Mamanuca islands, this unique Ibiza-style floating island is equipped with an in-house, internationally acclaimed DJ, sun decks, day beds, hanging chairs, snorkelling gear, water sports facilities and two environmentally friendly bathroom facilities.

In addition, Cloud 9 boasts a fully stocked bar with international top shelf drinks as well as delicious seasonal cocktails, smoothies and bottled water. Cloud 9’s on-board Italian wood-fired pizza oven is famed for producing the ‘best pizza in the south pacific’.

Cloud 9 is located 10 minutes from Musket Cove marina and 45 minutes from Port Denarau marina. The cost to visit Cloud 9 is: $159 (FJ$) per person (adult rate) and $79.50 (FJ$) for children ages 3-12 this includes: • Return transfers to Cloud 9 • Your choice of an Italian wood-fired pizza (vegetarian, non-vegetarian and gluten-free options available) • Your choice of two beverages (imported wine, local beer, soft drinks and fresh juices available) Cloud 9 offers two daily transfer times from Port Denarau marina: 9:15am and 11:45am. The return boat leaves Cloud 9 at 4:00pm.

Guests from neighboring resorts can catch a boat transfer directly to the platform and spend a relaxing hour or day absorbing the spectacular panoramic views and bathing in crystal clear turquoise waters.

Cloud 9 is also the ultimate special function and event

venue. Exclusively hire the top platform or the entire venue for your next special function or event and offer your guests an experience like no other.

Cloud 9 offers a unique, intimate and relaxed wedding setting, with numerous wedding packages available catering for individual needs and desires when tying that special knot. This one-of-a-kind venue caters for up to 100 guests at any given time.

Cloud 9 prides itself in providing a once in a lifetime memorable experience for each and every guest. ➜ www.cloud9.com.fj

Ocean Charters Fiji

PACIFIC ISLANDS | FIJI

A New Level of Service

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cean Charters Fiji is proud to offer 24hr exclusive resort transfers and charter services. Whether you need a fast efficient transfer to a resort, to go game and sports fishing, would like to island hop and dolphin watch, snorkel over pristine coral gardens or sip French champagne with a loved one (or two). Ocean Charters Fiji is here for you.

Ocean Charters Fiji runs an un-parallelled service. All transfers include a warm welcome, chilled Fiji Water, porter service and professionally trained staff to take care of you on well-maintained clean vessels.

An upgrade to the standard transfers is “Your Hearts Desire” to a few select resorts, priced by you it includes chauffeur driven vehicle to the marina, porter service, fruit platter and French Champagne or whatever your heart desires.

We work closely with Tourist Transport Fiji so we can also book your land transport to and from the airport, therefore you are taken care of from door to door, the Fiji experience starts immediately on landing.

The boats Aurora and Eos are fitted for comfort with full protection from the elements, a full size toilet compartment and they have a top speed of between 25 and 30 knots. A third vessel, Cagi Laba, has just been added to the fleet, a much larger vessel it comes with all comforts and amenities expected from Ocean Charters Fiji, this vessel carries 26 people (20 with luggage).

The vessels have the latest safety and communication equipment required by the Maritime Safety Authority of Fiji (MSAF), the captain and crew are also fully endorsed by MSAF. The team at Ocean Charters Fiji looks at making the transition from plane to car to boat and finally to the island a safe, smooth and fun experience.

Ocean Charters Fiji Port Denarau T: + 679 999 9052 E: res@oceanchartersfiji.com ➜ www.oceanchartersfiji.com

PACIFIC ISLANDS | FIJI

Port Denarau Marina

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ort Denarau Marina is the gateway to sailing the western cruising grounds of the Mamanucas and Yasawas. With considerable capital expenditure over the past six years the marina has emerged as a major tourist hub and a well-recognised yachting destination. Fiji’s largest marina is located on Denarau Island, the largest integrated resort in the South Pacific. If you want to splash out and be pampered, this is where you want to be. Less than 10 kilometres from Nadi, it boasts eight large resorts, stunning beaches and an 18-hole championship golf course.

You’ll find an excellent range of accommodation, with the resorts offering designer suites, stunning swimming pools and a wide range of restaurants. Whether you want to shop, have some adventure or experience some of the best dining Fiji has to offer, you’ll find it all on Denarau Island.

The private vessel marina consists of a 54 berth Bellingham Marine floating jetty for transient vessels including one 80m, three 50m, three 65m and nine 30m berths with 5m MLWS, bringing the total marina capacity to 120 berths.

Year round the marina is a hive of activity for day cruises and for ferry transportation to the many island resorts. Annually Port Denarau Marina facilitates the movement of 720,000 passengers through the terminal and over the docks.

While visiting the marina, guests are able to explore the retail centre comprising of nine restaurants and bars, numerous shops, doctors, pharmacy, beauty salon, supermarket and bakery while enjoying regular live entertainment from both bands and local cultural events.

To service all vessels Port Denarau Marina has a boat yard with a 50 ton travel lift. The hardstand area has capacity for up to 12 boats with a storage area for 30. To service guests’ vessels there are 20 large workshops within the boat yard confines; with services from sail making to

chandlery, engine rebuilds to complete repaints.

Taking a cruise is a great way to see more of Fiji. Part of what makes Fiji unique is its many groups of islands, each with its own culture, identity and attractions, and cruising is one of the best ways to get around them.

If you want to stay reasonably close to Denarau Marina, only a few nautical miles away, the Mamanucas, a chain of 20 islands, has a huge range of world-class resorts and activities to keep you going. Cruising these islands and ‘resort hopping’ is ideal for sociable types who love keeping busy and interacting with others.

In surroundings beautiful enough to star in ‘Cast Away’ and ‘Survivor: Fiji’ these islands offer parasailing, windsurfing, dolphin-watching, famous dives such as the Big W and Gotham City, some of the best surf breaks in the world, and just about any other activity you can do on or under the water. Young or old, party animal or looking for a family holiday, there’s an island for everyone.

If a more laidback experience is what you’re after, the nearby Yasawas are less developed but just as beautiful, giving you the opportunity to learn about Fijian culture and lifestyle with villages dotted throughout the group.

The Yasawa Group of islands is more grand in stature than the nearby Mamanucas but are less commercialised, making them popular with backpackers and yachting tourists. You won’t find any shops, banks or medical services here, but with so much natural beauty you’ll enjoy the break from civilisation. With gorgeous beaches, abundant sunshine and a range of stunning anchorages, this is the place to come for an incredible retreat in paradise.

Denarau Marina E: reservations@denaraumarina.com ➜ www.denaraumarina.com

PACIFIC ISLANDS | FIJI

Volivoli…the Heart of Fiji

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olivoli first opened to welcome travellers from across the globe in November 2005 and has been extending their list of vacationers ever since.

The Darling family (Steve Snr, Gail and sons Steve and Nick) came to Fiji on a project to finish the construction of Kings Rd. The boys attended school in the local village of Rakiraki, where they developed what has become a life long love for Fiji, its culture and of course the Fijian people.

The family’s vision was to open a dive resort and what started with Ra Divers has now evolved into the relaxed luxury resort that you will find today.

Diving and fishing are still their passions but the property has grown into an exquisite resort where guests can experience…diving, fishing, Day Spa, Live-a-board diving (on the Fiji Siren) and a relaxing vacation.

The whole family is actively involved in the daily operation to ensure everyone who visits receives the same personal service and gets the opportunity to share in their love of the Fijian culture.

From the lush tropical gardens to the high-end quality accommodation, the resort has evolved into one of the best boutique family run resorts in Fiji with Nick and Steve being the onsite Managing Directors driving the business with a hands on approach.

The Resort: Dive into the heart of Fiji with this modern relaxed family run resort. Volivoli Beach Resort is located 15 minutes drive from the town of Rakiraki, on the very north tip the island of Viti Levu. Volivoli Beach Resort is situated on a headland, offering lush tropical gardens, high end quality accommodation, its own private beach and a stunning 80 metre sand spit, extending out into the ocean. All accommodation offers guests ocean views. With a fleet of dedicated dive and fishing boats, an onsite, fully equipped dive shop, and training

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school all the elements of beachside living come together at Volivoli. A perfect blend of relaxation, water sports and nightly entertainment. Cultural activities and world-class diving. An onsite Restaurant, swim up Pool Bar, Day Spa and Beach Bar complete the true Fijian Vacation.

Volivoli Beach Resort Rakiraki T: + 679 669 4511, E: info@volivoli.com ➜ www.volivoli.com

PACIFIC ISLANDS | VANUATU

Iririki Island Resort

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estled exclusively in Port Vila Bay, Iririki Island Resort offers an idyllic private island hideaway just perfect for a relaxing tropical holiday. This family friendly resort offers breathtakingly beautiful, panoramic vistas of the surrounding bay and out to the open ocean yet is conveniently located just a 4 minute scenic ferry ride from the colourful markets, restaurants and Duty Free shopping in Port Vila.

Your island accommodation is spacious and inviting all designed with comfort and relaxation in mind. You can enjoy wonderful tropical garden, harbour or ocean views from individual private Fares or indulge in the luxurious self-contained Deluxe Rooms and Penthouses each featuring their own private balcony spa. For families who want a little more space there are the Deluxe Family Fares offering 2 rooms. You have a choice of 2 swimming pools in which to enjoy a cooling dip -the Bali Hai harbour-side infinity pool where you can relax and enjoy stunning Port Vila views and the Lagoon Pool which at 1,300 sq.m is one of the largest of its kind in the South Pacific, complete with its own swim up pool bar, waterfalls, rockpools and lush greenery.

The resort also boasts tennis courts, a childrens playground a gym and watersports centre. You might like to try your hand at kayaking around the island, or spend the afternoon sailing one of the catamarans. Alternatively head down to Snorkellers Cove for great snorkelling or relax with a drink and a good book on the beach.

At Iririki, they don’t expect you to journey across to the mainland for a good time - they bring the good time to you. There are a host of daily activities for guests to enjoy including Bislama lessons, historic walks, fish feeding and great evening entertainment ranging from Cultural shows to local bands. The Iririki Kids Club runs daily 10am – 6pm and provides hours of fun activities and a great chance to meet new friends. This is free for children under 13 years of age and includes meals. A holiday is never complete without a little indulgence and Spa Frangipani is the perfect place

to relax and enjoy some amazing therapeutic treatments including a hot stone massage, rejuvenating facials and a cleansing body scrub.

When it comes to dining, Iririki excels. You have a choice of 2 restaurants, bars and a poolside café plus in room dining. Renown Micheners Restaurant has recently had a new deck added extending out from the restaurant to make the most of the stunning harbour views. Micheners menu has also been refreshed and now features some of the winning dishes from the 2013 Salon Cullinaire competition at which Iririki garnered an extensive collection of medals. The menu incorporates local ingredients with an international flare. Start your dining experience with a mouth-watering beef carpaccio or lobster bisque, indulge in Tumeric Chicken stuffed with Cream Cheese and Smoked Marlin or Pan Seared Yellow Fin Tuna Loin and end your night with Local Vanilla Bean Bavaroise or Iririki’s famous Toffee coffee – all while enjoying the wonderful surroundings, relaxing ambience and mesmerising views.

Iririki is not only great a holiday escape with delightful accommodation options, but also an ideal place to host weddings, conferences, incentives and functions. Top it all off with our relaxed and friendly staff as well as our renowned dining options and you’ve arrived in paradise. ➜ www.iririki.com

PACIFIC ISLANDS | VANUATU

Grand Hotel and Casino Vanuatu

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Their qualified therapists ensure only the best products and finest essential oils are adopted across our wide range of treatments. Proudly setting the standard in Vanuatu as the first and only day spa to introduce a sauna within its premises, our complete treatment menu caters to all desires.

The Grand Hotel and Casino also caters for small conferences and events. We provide a range of on-site equipment including: data projectors, laptops, whiteboards, overhead projector and screens along with free wireless access. Our central location means that doing business in Port Vila is easy and we aim to ensure that a business stay is true pleasure.

Vanuatu is the soft adventure capital of the South Pacific and the Grand Hotel offers many water activities right at your doorstep and land-based adventures nearby. There are a number of fishing boat charter operators moored outside the hotel and our front desk staff are always happy to help out with suggestions for guided tours and helpful hints on what to see and do on the island of Efate.

With our prime location the Grand Hotel and Casino is truly a pleasure to come back to time and time again. ➜ www.grandhotelvanuatu.com

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ith a relaxing yet sophisticated setting, the Grand Hotel and Casino in Vanuatu has a prime waterfront location and is right in the heart of the colourful township of Port Vila, central to the shopping, business and entertainment district.

Situated over 6 levels all rooms in this stylish hotel offer amazing harbour and ocean views and are ideally suited to couples or groups of friends wanting a relaxing tropical getaway. Each of the guestrooms and suites are luxuriously appointed with floor to ceiling windows, a marble bathroom with separate walk-in shower and bath and a private balcony from which to enjoy the panoramic views. The spacious Suites offer a separate living room and bedroom. If you are feeling peckish there is 24 hour room service and free wifi throughout the hotel means you can keep in touch and post those up to the minute holiday snaps in real time on social media.

The fresh water horizon swimming pool overlooks Port Vila Bay and is a great place for a refreshing dip or you can easily wile away the hours watching the boats come and go on the harbor as you enjoy al fresco dining and a revitalizing drink from the Cabana Bar. When the sun starts to set, head up to the 6th floor rooftop Hemisphere Lounge Bar to marvel at the stunning views and enjoy one of the hotels exclusive cocktails. Finish your day with dinner at Crystals a unique waterfront setting where you can experience a truly cosmopolitan menu with key signature dishes in a chic yet relaxing setting.

If it’s a great night out you’re looking for then look no further than the Grand Casino offering the very best in gaming facilities. Step into the Casino for an evening of elegance, excitement and entertainment. With gold leaf ceilings and crystal chandeliers the stylish charm of our casino will ensure you have a gr Pamper yourself with a treatment or two at the Arom’essence Day Spa. Discover pure relaxation and wellbeing with a Sothys Paris body or facial treatment.

PACIFIC ISLANDS | NIUE

New on Niue

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here is much happening on one of the South Pacific’s smaller nations. Niue, affectionately known as the ‘Rock of Polynesia’ has a raft of new tourism experiences on offer to its much-valued visitors.

Niue Island Tourism’s Director of Tourism, Vanessa Marsh says “these exciting new enhancements make excellent use of Niue’s unique environment and in delivering an authentic experience that is quite simply like no other in the region.”

New in the lineup is Misa’s Tour, which is operated by Misa Kulatea, one of Niue’s founding tour operators. The tour focuses on significant cultural and historical highlights as well as incorporating traditional lifestyle elements which visitors have expressed a strong interest in. The 2.5 hour tour takes visitors just a little off the beaten track with light refreshments and a highly informative and enjoyable tour on one of the island’s many accessible walking tracks. Misa’s Tour departs every Wednesday at 9am and 2pm and on Saturdays at 2pm.

Fish Niue is a new fishing charter operation aboard Manutahi (seabird), which is a 6.3m Stabicraft, purpose built for Niue’s conditions and complies with Niuean safety requirements. Manutahi is skippered by local restaurateur and chef, BJ Rex, so visitors can be sure of excellent advice

on the most edible catches – and maybe even persuade BJ to share some of his culinary secrets with them, as all anglers with Fish Niue are guaranteed a portion of their catch to take back to their accommodation – or freeze to bring home. The vessel carries quality Shimano game rods and reels, which are rigged to IGFA standards, making them suitable for both the novice and experienced angler.

Vaiolama Café, Mini Golf and Mountain Bike Hire.

Well-known New Zealand identity, Mark Blumsky, together with his Niuean family, has just opened a labour of love in what Mark describes as being the “Cape Kidnapper’s of mini golf”. The cliff top, 18 hole mini golf course with its sweeping ocean views and intricate design amongst the coral terrain is “worth travelling for” says Mark proudly. The Kiwi designed course is indeed a masterstroke and will certainly offer visitors a fantastic recreational challenge as well as an excellent conversation piece for when they get home! The course also hosts the Vaiolama Café, perched atop the steep cliffs and is also the base for mountain bike hire. Mark purchased a fleet of brand new Merida mountain bikes, which are already proving popular with tourists and offer an excellent way to experience the island and its well-marked bike trails. www.niueisland.com

Ultimate Luxury Holidays Villas • Chalets • Yachts • Lifestyle

Chalet Amazon Creek, Chamonix

Your enchanted winter wonderland...

Our Chamonix chalets are located in private woodlands, with spectacular views of Mont Blanc. Enjoy ultimate luxury during the winter season with private chefs, hosts and chauffeur driven vehicles. After an invigorating day on the slopes, enjoy freshly made afternoon tea, cosy the children into the cinema room with their favourite movie, then pamper yourself in the chalet spa facilities and prepare for dinner!

Lets Travel readers receive 10% discount

Visit our website www.amazoncreek.co.uk or call us on +44 (0) 1865 865 456 to find out more! enquiries@amazoncreek.co.uk

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AUSTRALIA | WESTERN AUSTRALIA

Cruising in the Kimberley

AUSTRALIA | WESTERN AUSTRALIA

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he vast 420,000 square kilometres of the Kimberley and the epic 12-metre tides of its coast presented hardship to early explorers. Their stories of courage and adventure remain, imprinted on the untamed wilderness of Australia’s last frontier, where fiery red landscapes meet aqua waters. Explore this timeless land with APT, the Kimberley experts that have been revealing this special part of Australia to guests for over 40 years.

Their expert crew ensures that you do not have to venture into international waters for lengthy passport checks, making these the most in-depth itineraries in the Kimberley and getting you closer than ever before.

The itineraries have been expertly planned so that you can enjoy your 4WD tour first and then unpack, relax and cruise in style whilst travelling with the same group of like-minded people. The experience and attention to detail allows you to enjoy a seamless and stress-free holiday.

Choose from several exclusive charters aboard one of two expedition vessels on a cruise along the Kimberley coast. Enjoy the added benefits of an APT Cruise Director, included transfers and an additional drinks package offering complimentary beer and wine with lunch and dinner.

APT owns the luxury small ship, the MS Caledonian Sky and chooses to partner with the Oceanic Discoverer, owned by the Australian company Coral Princess Cruises. With an open bridge policy, you can enjoy access to areas of the ships normally out of bounds. Take an escorted tour of the engine room or study the navigational path with your captain.

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AUSTRALIA | WESTERN AUSTRALIA

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With a range of comfortable excursion vessels on board, you can get closer than ever before. The fleet of zodiacs on the MS Caledonian Sky offer an exhilarating ride over the waterways of the Kimberley. On board the Oceanic Discoverer, the Xplorer vessel can travel long distances in shade and comfort to explore the rivers.

On board both ships, you’re able to unwind at the end of your adventure-packed day with a cool drink from the cocktail bar and head to the Sun Deck to take in stunning views.

If you are keen to learn more about this spectacular region, take in one of the guest lectures hosted on board.

Both ships feature wireless internet access, phone facilities and a gift shop…complimentary tea and barista-style coffee are available 24 hours a day.

To complement your cruising experience, APT offers the largest range of fully escorted land tours throughout the Kimberley, providing more holiday combinations than any other tour operator. With groups of no more than 20 people on all 4WD land journeys, you are assured of an intimate and personalised experience.

Their Tour Directors are with you every step of your journey and are always on hand to ensure your holiday is hassle-free. Expert Driver-Guides are passionate about the quality of the experience they deliver. Many are tertiary educated, having undertaken the study of horticulture, cultural heritage and conservation, ecology, anthropology and astronomy to enrich your experience.

With so much choice, why not experience Australia’s best-kept secret – the Kimberley and its coastline – in relaxed style and complete comfort.

facts:

W: ➜ www.aptouring.co.nz T: + 64 (0) 800 458 622

to

Flying non-stop to Perth

Air New Zealand offers almost daily non-stop flights between Auckland and Perth* and seasonal non-stop flights between Christchurch and Perth^, with connections available from all around New Zealand.

Book now airnewzealand.co.nz *From 15 October 2014 this service will be operated by the new 787-9 Dreamliner. ^From 13 December 2014 to 25 April 2015.

NEW ZEALAND | AUCKLAND

Day Tripping with Fullers Anyone, local or visitor alike, can’t help but be in awe once they leave the downtown ferry terminal and make their way out across the sparkling waters of the Waitemata Harbour…relaxing while taking in the magnificent islands of the Hauraki Gulf.

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ullers have been doing just that for over 20 years, after the idea came about as the result of a family sailing trip in the summer of 1981. George Hudson and his son, Douglas, saw a tired and worn out procession of wooden ferries slowly ebb past their own boat. Over time Auckland’s ferry service had become neglected, stale and tired, and was figuratively and literally running out of steam. The Hudsons realised the potential for a successful ferry service, and strove to do something about it. By the end of that year, the Hudsons were the proud owners of North Shore Ferries.

The transition from the slow, wooden fleet into a sleek, modern operation began in 1987 with the arrival of Gulf Ferries first catamaran, the QuickCat. The introduction of this faster and more efficient ferry set the course for the future of the company and for Waiheke Island. With a more comfortable and faster mode of transport, travel to and from the island

was revolutionised. The fleet’s replacement continued in 1988 with the arrival of Kea for the Devonport services. Coinciding with the rejuvenation of the fleet, Auckland’s historic Ferry Building was also re-opened and is still, to this day, the starting point for most travelling out onto the Gulf.

1988 saw the company change its name to Fullers Group Limited as we know it today and 10 years later Stagecoach New Zealand Ltd. became the major shareholder. George Hudson remained as Chairman until 2007 when he stepped down. At the same time Douglas became the CEO, a position he holds to this day. In 2009, Fullers was sold to Souter Holdings (headed by Sir Brian Souter) who went on to purchase the now sister company 360 Discovery Cruises.

While many aspects of the business have evolved since its humble beginnings, what remains unchanged is the enthusiasm of the people of Auckland for the transport

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mode which has done much to shape their city. Fullers is a name recognised with providing reliable and innovative ferry services in Auckland for commuters and visitors alike.

Here are some of the journeys you can enjoy with Fullers.

Waiheke Island Waiheke Island is situated 40 minutes by ferry from downtown Auckland and is a must-do for anyone visiting the city.

Synonymous with Aucklanders as the ‘island of wine’, visitors to the city also can’t resist the island’s charm and set off to spend a day indulging in award-winning wines, olive oils and cuisines.

Fullers offer a regular ferry service as well as bus and tour services around the island. The Fulllers Waiheke Explorer tour is ideal for those who want a brief introduction to the island, before spending the rest of the day taking it all in at their own leisure.

Fullers also offer the deluxe Wine on Waiheke and Taste of Waiheke tours which both combine a guided tour of the island with tastings of some of the island’s finest wines, beers, olive oils at some of the most picturesque vineyards ever seen.

All tours come with an All Day Bus Pass, designed to let visitors explore even further with unlimited bus travel on the Fulllers Waiheke Bus Company public bus service.

Rangitoto Island and Motutapu Rangitoto Island is a powerful sight rising from the sparkling waters of the Hauraki Gulf, its iconic shape an unmistakeable part of the Auckland landscape. Joined to Rangitoto Island by connecting causeway is Motutapu which is centuries older than its neighbour.

Covering Rangitoto Island’s harsh volcanic surface is the largest pohutukawa forest in the world. Tracks and walking

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paths network the island’s otherwise difficult terrain making it easy for visitors to navigate. The summit beckons any walker to reach it and promises of uninterrupted panoramic views of the magnificent Gulf.

Motutapu offers visitors an entirely different experience than that of Rangitoto. Scattered World War II gun emplacements can be reached by scenic walking routes that weave through hilly farmland. Traverse between islands by crossing the manmade causeway or swim in the beautiful Gardener’s Gap. Dotted around Rangitoto Island’s coastline are baches, remains of an early 20th century community who holidayed there until construction was banned in 1937. Since the island has been declared a reserve, many baches were returned to the Crown, with just a few remaining as historic memories of a distant New Zealand tradition.

The Fullers Volcanic Explorer Tour is the perfect way to experience the best Rangitoto Island has to offer from the comfort of a tractor drawn road train. Learn about the island’s interesting history and ecological significance through the commentary of the experienced and knowledgeable tour drivers.

Fullers Harbour Cruise Auckland is well known all over the world as the City of Sails. It is said that one in five Aucklanders own their own boat, while one in three have regular access to one.

A Fullers Harbour Cruise offers you the opportunity to discover the secrets that many Aucklanders grow up with.

Auckland celebrates its diversely rich maritime history from European settlement back in the late 18th century through to New Zealanders’ sailing performance on the global sailing stage.

The Fullers Harbour Cruise is a fully commentated tour that travels along past the Ports of Auckland out towards Bean Rock Light House and Rangitoto Island. The cruise then works its way from North Head past Devonport and

the Navy Base, towards the Auckland Harbour Bridge and back to the ferry basin.

The Harbour Cruise includes a free return trip to Devonport plus morning or afternoon tea.

360 Discovery Cruises – Tiritiri Matangi Island For those interested in New Zealand wildlife the trip to Tiritiri Matangi Island with 360 Discovery is an absolute must. Visitors to the island will be greeted by a DOC ranger and guided walks through the re-planted native bush will put them up close and personal with some very special and rare wildlife.

Tiritiri Matangi Island holds appeal for all ages and abilities and will give insight into how a world renowned conservation project, run over the last 30 years, can lead to dramatic transformation for an island once stripped bare for farming, now reinstated and protected for future generations.

Rotoroa Island Rotoroa is the Gulf’s very own arts, heritage and conservation island. Nestled among a chain of islets off Waiheke’s east coast the island was off limits for 100 years to the public with the exception of those who required rehabilitation in the care of the Salvation Army. The island was reopened in 2011 and is operated by the Rotoroa Island trust. Visitors to the island have the chance to experience its beautiful beaches, walking trails, heritage buildings, art, and a state-of-the-art exhibition centre which tells the story of the islands history.

The island has good and varied walking tracks allowing visitors to explore trails among regenerating bush. Rotoroa is an evolving wildlife sanctuary, and with Auckland Zoo, is working towards introducing endangered native species to the island. There’s also some delightful upmarket holiday homes (all with fantastic views) available for the public to book. ➜ www.fullers.co.nz ➜ www.360discovery.co.nz

EXPLORE WAIHEKE WITH FULLERS

WAIHEKE ISLAND FERRY

WAIHEKE EXPLORER TOUR

Fullers operate regular ferry departures from downtown Auckland to Waiheke Island. With beautiful beaches, picturesque vineyards and spectacular coastline, Waiheke is a world away from Auckland. Purchase a Fullers All Day Bus Pass to see the island at your own leisure.

A 1½ hour tour of the island’s best sights with guided commentary on its history and culture. The coach meets the 10am, 11am (via Devonport) and 12noon departures from Auckland. Includes an all day bus pass for unlimited travel for the rest of the day.

Operates daily.

WINE ON WAIHEKE TOUR

TASTE OF WAIHEKE TOUR

Our deluxe vineyard tour, mixing world class wine with the beautiful surroundings of Waiheke Island.

Meets the 1pm departure from Auckland.

Operates daily during summer.

Experience a tour with tastings at three vineyards and an olive grove, plus a light lunch. Meets the 11am (via Devonport) departure from Auckland.

Operates daily during summer.

For days of tours and more information including prices and bookings visit Fullers.co.nz

Book your experience today!

Getting Our Kicks on Route 66…Part 2

U.S.A. | ROUTE 66

Words and images by Shane Boocock

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n April 28th, 1881, William H. Bonney barely escaped the hangman’s noose in Lincoln, New Mexico by breaking out of jail during which he shot a guard and then killed another. Less than three months later he was tracked down and shot dead by sheriff Pat Garrett in the abandoned Fort Sumner, De Baca County…July 14, 1881. According to legend, Bonney, better known as ‘Billy the Kid,’ had killed 21 men by the time he was 21, but it is generally acknowledged it was more than likely it was only eight people he killed in gunfights.

Forty five miles south of Route 66, Fort Sumner had little to distinguish it other than winds blowing sagebrush across the uneven road and into the cemetery where ‘Billy the Kid’ is buried. Made famous in early western novels and immortalised in numerous western movies, ‘Billy the Kid’ is still known as one of the most notorious killers of the Wild West era. He has certainly become more of a hero in death than he did in his short 21-year life span. Ironically, his gravestone has twice been stolen; in the 1950’s it disappeared for 25 years, so today it’s locked in iron shackles to prevent further theft.

About 20 miles (32 km) northwest of the cemetery is Fort Sumner State Park Campground. It was a glorious day

with the temperature topping out at about 85 degrees (29.5 C), sunbathing weather. We drove our El Monte RV into a site facing the lake and pulled out our rods and tackle and some cold beers for a few hours of bass fishing. Directly north the clouds drew darker suggesting we were in for a storm, yet the sunset ended up being spectacular. Without warning the winds turned south in what the locals call, “Holy Week”. They say in New Mexico that the week before Easter is always extremely windy and then the calm of post Easter returns.

From pulling fish out to white out! Our lakeside campsite was one of the best we’ve ever found but things changed very quickly during the night. At 7:00 am the next morning we found the true meaning of camping at this time of year – two centimetres of snow on the ground and a frozen windscreen. We had been hit with a spring snowstorm.

Back on the ‘Mother Road’, our first thought was to head to the comfort of Santa Fe, New Mexico. After a few hours we pulled our RV into the municipal parking lot a block from the town square and checked into La Fonda Hotel on the Plaza. This is a hotel that has been welcoming guests since 1922. It became known as the ‘Inn at the End of the Track’...when the old railroad’s last stop was Santa Fe. The

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town is over 400 years old and the main plaza is where the local Native Americans sell their jewellery, rugs and touristy temptations.

On our second night in Santa Fe we relocated to Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort situated in the Canoncito del Rio de Tesuque. In 1650 Francisco Vasques de Coronado led an expedition to this region from Mexico in search of the Seven Cities of Cibola that were said to be made of gold, but all he found for his troubles were adobe Indian villages along the Rio Grande and more still in the mountain regions. The resort has 91 rooms and a number of large exclusive private suites where movie stars, such as Johnny Depp, have stayed.

On the western edge of New Mexico, about two hours from Santa Fe, we visited the oldest continuously inhabited community in the United States. Acoma Pueblo, often referred to as, ‘Sky City’ is the physical and spiritual homeland for the Acoma people, and sits 370 feet high (112 m) above the desert floor, on top of a mesa (elevated area of land). The history of the Acoma people and the pueblo dates back to as early as 100 A.D. Roughly 100 people, made up of 13 families inhabit the rough adobe structures, with no running water, electricity or internal bathroom facilities. For an authentic look at their pueblo and mission built in the 1600’s take a guided tour but expect a few locals selling pottery to be awaiting your arrival.

Next we crossed the state line into Arizona, driving Interstate 40 with a stop at Petrified Forest National Park before pulling into the town of Winslow, Arizona. A statue now stands on a famous corner of Route 66, made famous

by The Eagles’ song Take it Easy.

By mid-afternoon we had arrived in Flagstaff, Arizona.

Here we wandered their downtown historic Route 66 district before checking into Black Bart’s Campground and Steak House. This is a campground with a Wild West style musical revue, where the waiters and cashiers, even the bartenders all sing for the customers. Each member of staff has a songbook and in turn sing what they choose every night. It’s what I’d class as a good food, fun and a frolicking western-style night out.

In the past 10 years Arizona’s Grand Canyon West has greatly evolved. Part of the Hualapai Indian Reservation, the facility offers Colorado River rafting, pontoon river tours, sightseeing helicopter flights, horse riding from the Grand Canyon West Lodge as well as Sky Walk – a half-circular glass walkway that juts out over the canyon. If you’re looking for an alternative to Grand Canyon South and its five million visitors a year then this is it. The Hualapai Reservation is to the west and on the outside of Grand Canyon National Park and to get there involves travelling 100 miles (160 km) on one of the best stretches of old Route 66.

The following morning we were on the Colorado River having driven the 22 miles (35 km) from Peach Springs by a graded dirt road. At 9.30 am we were pushing off in a Hualapai River Runners outboard-powered raft along with three other rafts full of adventure seekers. Their tours run from the middle of March to the end of October on half-day long, river rafting trips. The rapids are graded 4-6 and when the river is running high provide some great white-water sections below spectacular panoramic vermillion coloured cliffs, buttes and steep canyons where, if you’re lucky, you’ll see California condors gliding on thermals.

facts: State and City Websites Arizona Tourism T: +1 866 275 5835 W: ➜ www.visitarizona.com

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on the road tips:

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Before leaving every morning it’s worth remembering a few RV rules that will help in retaining your damage waiver bond: • Always wind down your roof airlock covers • Lock all external storage bins as they are apt to snap open at high speeds.

• Set your mirrors and watch for any low campground poles that have a nasty habit of jumping out on your rear end when you are cornering • Turn off your water heater too as you won’t be needing it until your next campsite • Always have somebody watch you reverse and even better advice is to try and drive through a campsite or parking lot.

• In buffeting winds pull over into a rest area especially if it’s a side on crosswind as this can damage your awnings!

On our way to Kingman the next day we stopped in the one ‘general store town’ of Hackberry where Route 66 merchandise has been taken to another level. We thought this was definitely worth a photo stop, as did 40 odd Harley Davidson motorbike riders who also invaded the memento-laden shack and service station.

About seven miles (11 km) out of Kingman, where there are more Route 66 knickknacks, signs, museums and even an old steam train right in town, you’ll start travelling the switchbacks and hairpin bends that offer some of the best scenic viewpoints anywhere on Route 66 before reaching the old gold mining town of Oatman, Arizona. This road is a great relic from America’s story of travelling west, giving a true glimpse of what roadies endured to get to the promised lands of California.

The Wild West town of Oatman was almost completely abandoned when Route 66 was bypassed except for the odd ‘leave me alone’ character that lived in solitude, but in the last couple of decades it has become a Route 66 ‘must see’ town. It’s famed for its wild burros that roam the streets. The burros are descended from pack animals used by prospectors in the mines and are protected by the US Department of the Interior. Envisage a lot of Route 66 kitsch, signs and souvenirs as this town thrives on its heritage.

Crossing the high deserts of California we skirted the Mojave National Preserve, from where more sections of Route 66 disappeared into the desert. Close to 275 miles (442 km) later we pulled over by Palisades Park near the Santa Monica Pier…this was where Route 66, The Mother Road, finally ended. The original route covered 2,448 miles (3,938 km), our odometer had clocked 2,527 miles (4,065 km)…we’d finally made it to the end of Main Street America.

New Mexico Tourism T: +1 505 827 7400 W: ➜ www.newmexico.org Amarillo, Texas T: +1 806 374 1497 W: ➜ www.visitamarillotx.com Santa Fe, New Mexico T: +1 505 955 6200 W: ➜ www.santafe.org Flagstaff, Arizona T: +1 928 213 2951 W: ➜ www.flagstaffarizona.org Other Websites: Billy The Kid and Fort Sumner T: +1 575 355 7705 W: ➜ www.fortsumnerchamber.com La Fonda Hotel, Santa Fe, New Mexico T: +1 505 982 5511 W: ➜ www.lafondasantafe.com Bishop’s Ranch & Spa, New Mexico T: +1 505 819 4002 W: ➜ www.bishopslodge.com Acoma Pueblo (Sky City) T: +1 800 747 0181 W: ➜ www.puebloofacoma.org Black Bart’s Campground and Steak House, Flagstaff T: +1 928 779 3142 W: ➜ www.blackbartssteakhouse.com Grand Canyon West T: +1 888 868 9378 W: ➜ www.hualapaitourism.com El Monte RV is privately owned offering RV rentals from different city locations across the United States. They feature the largest number of RV models in the motorhome industry. El Monte RV can be contacted at ➜ www.elmonterv.com Shane Boocock flew courtesy of award winning Air Tahiti Nui, the international flag-carrier of Tahiti and her islands in the latest-generation Airbus A340-300 aircraft direct from Auckland to Tahiti and on to Los Angeles: ➜ www.airtahitinui.co.nz

I feel refreshed diving beneath. Bewildered by the colour and movement, I become one with nature. Absorbed in a moment. My soul is soothed. Lost in island time, I can enjoy a picnic, unwind at the spa and savour a candlelit dinner with my loved one. I'm here, a place where I can watch the sun set, take time out to explore or laze by the pool. Have a holiday. A world of experiences await on Hamilton Island, the heart of Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. It’s just a short direct flight from Sydney, Melbourne or Brisbane. Experience Hamilton Island now with the Best of the Whitsundays package including 4 nights accommodation, a full day trip to the Great Barrier Reef, half day trip to Whitehaven Beach and more. Visit hamiltonisland.com.au or call 137 333 (+61 2 9433 0444).

Find yourself at the heart of the Great Barrier Reef

Santa Fe Seduction

U.S.A. | NEW MEXICO

Words and images by Shane Boocock

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I

t was not what we expected; an icy Arctic blast had been pushed down from Canada all the way into New Mexico and it was unseasonably cold and snowing as we unloaded our bags into the lobby of La Fonda Hotel right in the heart of Santa Fe. Located on the town’s famous historic Plaza, it’s a beloved landmark of Southwestern hospitality – the oldest and best-known hotel in America’s oldest capital city.

Historical records suggest that La Fonda on the Plaza sits on the oldest hotel corner in America – dating back to 1607 when the Spaniards founded Santa Fe. In 1821, when Captain William Becknell completed the first successful trading expedition from Missouri to Santa Fe, the party found a comfortable inn – or fonda – on the Plaza awaiting them. Thus, the Santa Fe Trail was born, as was La Fonda’s reputation for hospitality.

During the nineteenth century, La Fonda became the preferred destination of trappers, soldiers, gold seekers, gamblers and politicians. Through the Civil War, railroad

expansion and New Mexico statehood in 1912, the building changed hands and names several times but remained a Santa Fe landmark.

The current La Fonda, built in 1922, sits on the same site as previous inns, literally at the terminus of the Santa Fe Trail and the Plaza. In 1925, the new building was acquired by the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway, becoming known as the ‘Inn at the End of the Track’. It was then leased to the family of legendary hotelier Fred Harvey. The Harvey family turned La Fonda into one of the famous Harvey Houses, which it remained until 1968, when it was acquired by local businessman Sam Ballen and his wife Ethel.

In the autumn of 2013, La Fonda completed its most significant room renovation project since the 1920s. Prior to initiating the project, in an effort to maintain the historic property’s authenticity, the hotel team conducted detailed studies of the original building plans and the aesthetics of original designer Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter. The resulting

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design remains true to Colter’s vision while bringing fresh, new modern touches. With the exception of the Terrace Suites, all guest rooms received new lighting, floor coverings and handcrafted furnishings; new energy-efficient casement windows; state-of-the-art temperature controls and sound insulation, and updated plumbing, electrical and communication systems. Also in this project, the rooftop Bell Tower Bar was expanded by 500 square feet. With dramatic views the fifth-floor rooftop setting is one of the best-kept secrets in Santa Fe. La Fonda’s signature restaurant, La Plazuela, was the hotel’s original 1920s open-air courtyard and retains the same Old World charm where Chef Lane Warner updates northern New Mexico classics with locally sourced organic meats and produce. Several vegetarian and gluten-free options are available, and the restaurant’s extensive wine list has been given the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence.

La Fonda on the Plaza is across from the St. Francis Cathedral Basilica on Santa Fe Plaza, where the local Native Americans sell their jewellery, rugs and touristy trinkets as well as being the centre of shopping, nightlife, annual art markets and special events. The hotel’s marriage of distinctive Old World tradition with contemporary luxury and convenience make it the perfect base for Santa Fe vacations.

Situated in the Canoncito del Rio de Tesuque, Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort & Spa, Santa Fe’s only authentic ranch resort is another genuine Southwestern experience just minutes and a world away from the daily life of a small city.

Spaniards had explored this area as early as the 1590s but it was Francisco Vasques de Coronado who, in 1650, led an expedition to this region from Mexico in search of the Seven Cities of Cibola that were said to be made of gold but, according to legend, all he found were scattered adobe Indian villages and Native Americans who inhabited the foothills and mesas of the local mountains.

Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort & Spa presides over 450 scenic acres where four full seasons of activities and recreation are guaranteed. It is an historic destination

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ranch resort nestled at the base of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Wrapping around a 156-year-old historic chapel, hence the name, the resort includes 15 Santa Fe adobe-style lodges housing 91 unique rooms many with kiva-style (a Pueblo Indian ceremonial structure) fireplaces, quiet courtyards and quaint balconies as well as eight gated exclusive villas where the likes of Johnny Depp has stayed while he was filming the western movie, ‘The Lone Ranger’.

The first Archbishop of Santa Fe, Jean Baptist Lamy, was drawn to the natural and tranquil beauty of the Tesuque Valley where he established his private retreat, La Villa Pintoresca, in 1853. Today Bishop’s Lodge is dedicated to preserving Archbishop Lamy’s history including the original chapel, which is still in use to this day.

During spring and autumn, guests can explore the adjacent Santa Fe National Forest, which we did on one of their guided horseback rides where we enjoyed dazzling views of rolling foothills and majestic canyons. Joachim, a Native American Indian was our wrangler guide and there was little he did not know about the American Southwest.

When I asked him about the lone burro mixed in with the horses in the corral, he said, “the burros hate coyotes and they feel protective of the horses, so they will raise a warning and will even fight off threatening animals…by the way the Burro’s name is Moonshine!”

The resort also boasts the award winning Shanah Spa, a Native American word for vitality and energy. There is also a beautiful outdoor pool with an adjacent fitness room, surrounded by lush lawns and towering cottonwoods ideal for a range of activities that include horse riding, mountain biking, bird watching, nature hikes and chapel history tours.

There are also tennis courts, a yoga studio, sunset cookouts and a multi-sport kids program.

The resort is also home to Las Fuentes Restaurant and Bar, offering contemporary, creative American cuisine with of course a Southwestern flair. At dinner that night I opted for a delicious onion soup followed by High Desert Hare – rabbit pot pie with hatch green chile and desert thyme, roasted fingerling potatoes, stewed apples – mouth wateringly appropriate in this part of New Mexico.

One other place worth stopping in at is a little adobe building housing Santa Fe Spirits. This establishment specialises in Whisky tastings with seven or more on offer as well as specialty cocktails such as Wiskeyrita – Silver Coyote whiskey, lemon, lime and sugar to a Coyote Cactus – Silver Coyote whiskey, prickly pear juice, lemon, lime, and sugar then dusted with cinnamon.

If you venture into this Southwest corner of New Mexico, leave a few days free to visit a number of important Native American Indian pueblos, ruins and cliff dwellings that dot the landscape. Also near Santa Fe is Chaco Culture National Historical Park. The canyon was central to thousands of people between 850 and 1250 A.D. Today the massive buildings of the ancestral Pueblo peoples still testify to the organisational and engineering abilities not seen anywhere else in the Southwest. You can explore Chaco through guided tours, hiking and biking trails, their museum, evening campfire talks, as well as attending night sky programs.

No wonder New Mexico’s state motto is, ‘Land of Enchantment’.

facts:

Santa Fe is situated at an altitude of 2,130 m with it’s own municipal airport and is located approximately 96 km northwest of Albuquerque in north-central New Mexico.

New Mexico Tourism T: +1 505 827 7400 W: ➜ www.newmexico.org Santa Fe, New Mexico T: +1 505 955 6200 W: ➜ www.santafe.org La Fonda Hotel, Santa Fe T: +1 505 982 5511 W: ➜ www.lafondasantafe.com Bishop’s Ranch & Spa T: +1 505 819 4002 W: ➜ www.bishopslodge.com Chaco Culture National Historical Park T: +1 505 786 7014 W: ➜ www.nps.gov/chcu/index Shane Boocock flew courtesy of award winning Air Tahiti Nui, the international flag-carrier of Tahiti and her islands in the latest-generation Airbus A340-300 aircraft direct from Auckland to Tahiti and on to Los Angeles: W: ➜ www.airtahitinui.co.nz

➜ www.americantourister.com.au or join American

Tourister’s Facebook community at ➜ www.facebook.com/AmericanTouristerAustraliaNZ

GENERAL | LUGGAGE

A

merican Tourister’s NZEDLITE is a “Go-To” in weightless luggage. Designed for the traveller who cringes at the thought of baggage limits and airline scales, American Tourister’s NZEDLITE is the lightweight luggage solution.

Starting at a jaw-dropping 2.4 kg for a 55 cm case, ‘The Lite One’ is a quality, ultra-light and practical choice for today’s savvy traveller.

Available exclusively in Briscoes, NZEDLITE will get travellers through the mayhem that comes whilst in transit with a little less stress and a lot more luggage.

Featuring a lightweight sturdy construction and expanders for extra capacity NZEDLITE will ensure travellers don’t leave any treasures behind.

This lightweight collection has a modern feel with black, red and blue colour options, each featuring contrasting interior lining that will make luggage pop!

Additional features include fixed TSA combination locks on 68cm and 82cm cases, with standard a combination lock on 55 cm cases. All external pockets can be locked with just one padlock for added security, spinner wheels for easy manoeuvrability and internal packing straps to secure your load.

American Tourister’s NZEDLITE size and price details include: • 55 cm/47 L/2.4 kg…$149.99 • 68 cm/82 L/3.1 kg…$249.99 • 82 cm/125 L/3.5 kg…$299.00 For more information go to

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GENERAL | MSC CRUISES

Cool sailings

By David Boyce

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A

Caribbean cruise had always been on my bucket list and this year I got to tick it off with a seven day round trip from Miami…visiting Jamaica, Cayman Islands, Mexico & The Bahamas.

Our ship, the MSC Divina, is one of four in the Fantasia Class and has the MSC Yacht Club onboard. This offers the passenger access to a world of special privileges. Our cabin was an ocean view with a port hole and had a good sized double bed. The cabin had a bathroom with shower, interactive TV, telephone, cable, internet connection (for a fee), mini bar and a safe. On arrival at the terminal our bags were whisked away by the porters.

Our cabin was located mid ships, on level 8. It had good access to the lifts and stairs. Levels 5-7 were the heart of the ship where we found shops, restaurants, bars, theatre, lounges, reception and the shore excursion office. Levels 8-13 were mostly cabins. Levels 14-18 we found the pools, spa, more lounges & bars, cafeterias, kids area, sports centre and the Yacht Club area.

First duty once all passengers are aboard is the standard safety drills and briefing. As the ship was based in USA the announcements were made in English first, followed by a

few other languages. After that most announcements were in English.

All food, drinks and related services not included in the cruise price can be paid at the end of the cruise or you can purchase various packages when booking or on-board. We opted for a voucher system whereby you got 15 vouchers to use for most things and could buy more if required. This works well as you’re never quite sure how much you will (or won’t) do.

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We had two main dinner sittings…7pm & 8.45pm, or the buffet on Level 14. We opted for 8.45pm, which allowed us to attend each evening’s spectacular International show, have pre-dinner drinks and then dinner.

Our table was for 8 people, 2 English, 2 Americans and, believe it or not, 4 New Zealanders. You had a choice of 7 difference courses with 2 choices from each course and that was before the desserts.

We had two days at sea and the rest were ports of call.

First port of call was Falmouth (Jamaica). We docked at the main wharf area. Our shore excursion was rafting on the main (Martha Brae) local river. While driving to the departure point we went through various small towns and it reminded me a bit like being in Fiji…the scenery and villages are similar. Once there we boarded a raft made from about 8-10 bamboo poles roped together with a seat for 2 people and a person with a pole to guide you down the river.

It took about 3 ½ hours and the guide gave us a rundown on various plant/animal life on the river and general information about life in Jamaica, plus everything he knew about the New Zealand cricket team.

The next day was a ½ day sightseeing tour in George Town (Cayman Islands). The ship’s tenders were used here.

As the Caymans is a tax free haven there are something like 500 international banks located here and it shows with the types of shops, homes, buildings etc. Our tour took us out to the main beach (Seven Mile beach), a Sea Turtle farm (the only one of its kind in the world) where they breed turtles for release (some weighing up to 600 lbs) but some were sold to local restaurants to stop poaching. We were even able to hand feed them, which was a first for us.

At a dolphin aquarium (a chance to have a photo with a dolphin) then onto a Tortuga Rum Cake Factory, before making our way to Hell. This hilariously named Cayman town is the perfect spot to send postcards from, aptly

facts: If you would like to learn more about MSC Cruises contact David Boyce Mondo Travel, Mt. Eden E: david.boyce@mondotravel.co.nz T: + 64 9 630 2435

postmarked “Mailed from Hell”, and you will earn the right to state that you’ve “been to Hell and back”.

The next day was Cozumel, a island off the Mexican coast, next to Cancun. As we were going to Cancun we had a look around the shops and a drink in the local bar. The rest of the time we made full use the faclilities on the ship.

Finally, our last day was supposed to be a beach day at Great Stirrup Cay (Bahamas), but due to inclement weather we woke to find ourselves in Nassau, the capital, along with 4 other cruise ships. You can imagine the amount of people that were all trying to get off the ships and do local sightseeing tours. We decided to go ashore and do our own thing, with a local taxi driver, who took us on a sightseeing tour of the city to view this beautifully preserved city. With its Victorian mansions, cathedrals, 18th-century fortresses and Queen’s Staircase (the 66 steps lead to a breathtaking panoramic view) and casinos Nassau is a great place to visit.

If you’re fond of titbits for your next dinner party, you’ll be interested to know that Nassau has featured prominently in cultural history, often being used as the setting for Bond films, as well as Flipper and Into the Blue.

Industry Traveller

How old were you when you got your first passport, and where did you travel to in order to “break it in”?

I was a tender age of 32 when I got my first passport and the first place I travelled to was back to Lebanon, the country I was born in, to “reconnect with my roots”.

How many countries have you travelled to?

13 Countries – some twice My favourite offshore destination is …

Besides Oman, it has to be Spain; I love the food, I love the history, I love the people, the diversity of the north from the south and, more than anything, the simplicity you find in the small villages throughout the country, very similar to Oman (I should have been born Spanish).

My favourite local destination is …

The Southern Highlands of NSW. I love road trips and NSW’s southern coastline and highlands have some quirky towns that have maintained their history but developed their own unique appeal, and cottage industries that I love exploring.

My favourite dining experience (anywhere in the world) is: SPANISH... I love tapas style dining, a little bit of everything and bursts of flavours.

My favourite kind of holiday is: Depends on who I am with and how long I have. Beach with a bit of shopping is great at times, but I love any cultural and historical experience that allows me to enrich my soul and knowledge.

What’s the one thing you can’t/won’t travel without?

Noise cancellation head phones – I have two types that I take with me everywhere!

What’s your best packing tip?

Put everything you would “love” to take on the bed and pack what you “need” to take. Pick 2-3 staples and mix and match with colourful tops and accessories. Good walking shoes are a must.

What’s your best travel tip?

“Time waits for no man” so punctuality – always give yourself enough time between flights and tour departures.

It’s just a simple courtesy that people often forget.

Do you dress comfortably or stylishly for long-haul trips?

Always “comfortably stylish” - comfortable pants, top, pashmina and a lightweight cardigan. I always change to lounge pants/top or airline PJ’s when I sleep though, so much easier especially when I’m on the go almost immediately after landing.

If WE were paying, tell us about your perfect holiday: Right now I would love to wake up to a Mediterranean sunrise over the Greek Islands, indulging in sun and sea and relaxing, but the little explorer in me would be itching to explore the beautiful islands that I can really immerse myself in.

What’s your best travel memory?

The first sunset over the desert in Oman. The serenity and quietness of the desert still captures my heart, even to this day, especially when the wind “magically” comes up within seconds of the sun going down. Reminds me of the verse from “The Alchemist” when the boy is asked to turn himself into the wind.

Anything “hilarious” ever happened to you while travelling?

I was in Madrid when this Spanish lady came up and started hurling abuse at me. I was so dumbstruck, had no idea who she was and couldn’t understand a word she said. Her friend came up and started ranting at her in Spanish, trying to calm the woman down, and she did; and then started apologising to me as she had mistaken me for a woman her husband had been having an affair with.

Where to next?

Greek Islands, Canada and South America ... in that order but then again who knows where the path may lead.

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Mona is the Country Manager for the Sultanate of Oman Tourism board. Based in Sydney, she is responsible for both the Australian and New Zealand markets. Her dedication and passion were rewarded in 2012 when the Sultanate of Oman won the Best Tourism Board – International.

REGULAR | INDUSTRY TRAVELLER

Name: Mona Tannous

Southern Comfort

NEW ZEALAND | DUNEDIN

By Peter Feeney

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t’s easy to forget, until you go there and soak up the extraordinary architecture, that in its heyday Dunedin was New Zealand’s pre-eminent city.

The Scots first settled in 1848 and Dunedin grew stupendously wealthy from the 1860s to 1890s from gold, state-led investments and the sheep’s back. The austere Scots settlement was overrun with riff-raff, including Jewish and Chinese settlers who have left an enduring mark on the city.

The Theomins (of Olveston House) and the drapery merchants, Hallensteins, were among the earliest Jewish folk. As an aside, Dunedin still has the world’s southernmost synagogue.

Dunedin’s supremacy gradually declined, but the legacy of architectural heritage, University think-tank and entrepreneurial nous, remained. Like much of New Zealand, Dunedin has been hammered by manufacturing closures in recent decades. But since 2000, employment and economic growth have outstripped population.

She is emerging as an immensely liveable city where people reside because they choose to, where eco-tourism

and heritage do-ups are flourishing, and art and innovation also abound. The city’s compact size has more than a little to do with it.

Dunedin is a super-city, minus the sleaze. It is New Zealand’s second biggest city by area, and is 90 per cent rural. But in the centre you can drive almost anywhere in less than 10 minutes, and not much more by bike. It was originally built for walking and its population has only doubled since 1910, the latest census has revealed.

I pounded its pavements with the affable Athol Parks, of City Walks. It was obvious how much of the old city has escaped the wrecking ball. Elsewhere, progress has meant ugly glass towers and malls that have sucked the soul out of the CBD. Since the earthquakes that cut a scythe through Christchurch’s architectural heritage, Dunedin now boasts the highest density of historic buildings of any New Zealand city, an embarrassment of architectural riches in Gothic and classical Victorian-Edwardian style.

On earlier visits I remember the downtown looking distinctly tatty. Now, developers, building owners and council are working together to preserve the past.

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In 1994, the Dunedin City Council bought the iconic railway station off NZR for the princely sum of $1. It is now restored to its full 1906 splendour and hosts the weekly farmers’ market. Upstairs you’ll find the New Zealand Sports Hall of Fame and next door the old art deco bus station has been restored and incorporated into the expanded Toitu Otago Settlers Museum, which re-opened in 2012.

Opposite, the magnificent original courthouse is to be restored at a cost of millions.

The old Chief Post Office is being made into offices, with a hotel on top. Tenants are lining up to occupy recent Victorian do-ups such as the old BNZ building on Princes St, or the wonderful, just-redeveloped buildings of the nearby trendy Warehouse Precinct.

I teamed up with city planner Glen Hazeldine to visit this precinct, a cluster of historic buildings near the waterfront that easily rivals Auckland’s Britomart in size. The area is home to Dunedin-born IT international success story, ADInstruments, and the development office of AVOS Systems, a new-tech company founded by YouTube’s co-founders.

Hazeldine and I popped into Paul Williams’ shop, Wine Freedom, housed in the ground floor of the 1880s NMA building. Born and bred in Dunedin, Williams’ love of wine took him to Christchurch, Wellington and eventually London, working for Montana wines. Now he’s back with his own internet-based wine business. He exemplifies one of Dunedin’s advantages…a returning diaspora.

“Dunedin is more comfortable with itself than it’s ever been. People are moving back who appreciate what Dunedin delivers - a small-town feel, big-city infrastructure.”

The entrepreneurial groove is well in evidence at the

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outdoor farmers’ market, held each Saturday morning all year round, rain or shine. Otago fresh produce - Whitestone cheese and Cardrona merino lamb - sit alongside vibrant food and beverage from Dunedin companies and personalities to match.

The lifestyle Dunedin boasts - cheap-as-chips real estate, low rents, proximity to everything and wildlife on your front doorstep. It has long attracted artists and designers, including the likes of Colin McCahon and Ralph Hotere.

Dunedin’s First Church is home to the Brett McDowell Gallery. When I visited, McDowell was setting up for the Barry Brickell exhibition, commemorating the 150th anniversary of the Dunedin Gasworks. Brickell is the well-known potter, conservationist and founder of Coromandel’s Driving Creek Railway. Getting a show with the iconic Brickell is a major coup for any gallery and how it happened illustrates Dunedin’s advantages of scale.

McDowell was visiting the Gasworks when he got chatting to Ann Barsby, a member of the trust. She told McDowell about the upcoming 150th celebrations.

Coincidentally Brickell’s name came up and, says McDowell, “in a eureka moment I remembered that gasworks of all types were one of Barry’s driving passions.”

He rang Brickell who immediately jumped at the chance to dedicate an entire show to gasworks, and their hot, steamy, dirty, smelly wonder. Following on from the Brickell exhibition, McDowell’s gallery showed the work of artist Martin Thompson, hot on the heels of his exhibition in New York City. Thompson is a renowned international artist who now lives…in Dunedin.

facts:

Getting there: Jetstar and Air NZ fly daily direct services from Auckland.

Staying there: The Southern Cross Hotel is at 118 High St.

Extra room. Extra amenities.

EXTRA COMFORT

With our new Airbus A330 extra comfort economy seats, you get five or more inches of extra legroom, priority boarding, electrical power outlet, full inflight entertainment pack*, upgraded meal* and comfort kit*. Priority security line# and complimentary ‘Unlimited TV & More’ entertainment pack#.

Fly non-stop 3 times a week from Auckland to Hawai‘i and onward to 11 U.S. Cities, including New York, Las Vegas, Los Angeles & San Francisco.

Or transfer to your favourite Hawaiian Island on one of 170 flights daily.

For more information or to make a booking, visit us at www.HawaiianAirlines.co.nz, call us on 09 977 2227, or contact your preferred travel agent.

2 x 32kg baggage Complimentary allowance per beverages passenger

Hawaiian hospitality

*For international flights only. # For Domestic USA flights only.

Hawai‘i inspired meals

Entertainment, blanket & pillow

PACIFIC ISLANDS | HAWAI'I

Absolute Hawaiian Luxury

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rom its envious position at a cool 1,000 feet up the slopes of Mount Hualalai, to its 270 degree panoramic views of Keauhou Bay and miles of the Kona coastline, this secluded luxury estate on 5 fenced and gated acres is surrounded by lush, tropical foliage.

It has been said that this architecturally significant residence boasts the most amazing views available on the Big Island. The residence was also featured on the cover of Island Home magazine. Privacy and security are assured from the moment you enter the gate and proceed down the sweeping, palm tree lined drive to the main residence.

Main House The Great Room features 18 foot vaulted ceilings and an open floor plan that encompasses a gourmet kitchen and dining/ living areas. The interiors have been professionally designed and offer a luxurious yet comfortable respite.

Floor to ceiling pocket doors open onto the lanais to bring the outdoors in. The gourmet kitchen will be the envy of any chef and is equipped to host parties large or small.

The kitchen features a large island and a handy breakfast bar where guests can gather and chat with the chef of the party. Adjacent to the kitchen is an intimate media room and an open air tropical bar perfect for pre-dinner cocktails.

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The Outdoor Entertainment Area Over 2,000 square feet of travertine lanais flow seamlessly around the home. Both covered and open-air patios feature plush chaise lounges and resort style furnishings surrounding the custom infinity edge pool and spa. This area is perfect for enjoying the beautiful Kona sunsets while sipping a tropical cocktail. The fun does not end after the sun sets as the area magically comes to life with the lighting of the gas tiki torches.

The Guest Suites The house is comprised of 3 separate pavilions, which are connected via travertine walkways. The King Master Suite with his and her bathrooms is housed independently in Pavilion 1. Pavilion 2 houses the main living area as well as two additional King Suites. Pavilion 3 houses the 4th King

Suite (aka Ohana). All beds are luxuriously appointed with Ritz Carlton feather bed toppers and Egyptian Cotton Linens.

Each suite is equipped with ceiling fans, private bathrooms, big screen DirectTV televisions as well as their own outdoor lounge areas. It is rare to find a vacation rental where up to 4 couples can retreat to their own private spaces. There is no need for air conditioning in this home as the near constant trade winds fan a delightful gentle breeze over the property.

If you are looking for absolute luxury in a breathtaking setting than this Hawaiian vacation rental has it all. You will never tire of gazing at the magnificent views and swaying palm trees while enjoying the cool tropical breeze. If you can tear yourself away from this property the Kona coastline is waiting to be explored. ➜ www.halewailele.com

GENERAL | CUISINE

The Difference Catering Company Images by Dillon Photography

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n business since 1997, The Difference Catering Company have been producing a consistently high quality product ever since. Their wealth of international experience and expertise puts them at the forefront of the hospitality and food service industry, and are ideal for your next corporate function.

Operating out of 600 sq.m ‘A’ grade food production premises in St. Johns, Auckland, they employ a highly experienced team of ten full time and twenty casual staff,

and with a vehicle fleet of seven serve a large range of both corporate and private clients throughout the greater Auckland metropolitan area.

An absolute dedication to consistently producing food of the highest possible quality and standard at competitive prices has earned them the reputation they have today - a reputation reflected in the many unsolicited testimonials received from customers.

facts: T: + 64 9 570 4014 E: info@thedifference.co.nz ➜ www.thedifference.co.nz

Top 10 Events catered to: 1. HP Intel Rugby World Cup Silo Park Wintergarden Pavilion Series 2. Karen Walker Store 20th Celebration 3. Matua Valley Cellar Door Launch of Single Vineyard Wines 4. 50th year Anniversary of Ayrlies Gardens, Whitford 5. The Capital (Silo Park pop up city) logistics and planning to enable 11 Wellington establishments to come to Auckland 6. Leighton’s Xmas Party for 600 at Shed 10 7. Deloitte’s Awards evening for 300 8. Fine Wine Delivery Company Penfolds Grange Dinner 9. Dame Jenny Gibbs Operatic Performance Fundraiser 10. Ride to Conquer Cancer Exclusive Degustation Dinner

GENERAL | CUISINE

Executive Chef/F & B Manager – Philip Reynolds Spending 12 years cooking in London and Europe, Philip worked in such internationally renowned restaurants as London’s Nico at Ninety Park Lane, Alain Ducasse and George Blanc before heading the Piasso Room at Marco-Pierre White’s Michelin-starred L’Escargot. He then spent two years as Head Chef for Harrods Flagship restaurant, The Georgian, where his role included three other restaurants totalling 1,200 seats.

Returning to Auckland in 2002 he joined Sky City for the Alinghi challenge for the America’s Cup before becoming Executive Chef at The Relish Group where he was responsible for planning everything from small intimate dinners to full service conferences for up to 1600 guests at a time.

Moving to Otto’s in the Metropolis Hotel, he proved his expertise in wine and food pairing, preparing comprehensive menu matching for international clients such as Moet & Chandon, Cognac Martell, Brown Brothers and Daniel Schuster. Currently working with numerous New Zealand and International winemakers creating exclusive wine events.

Since 2008 Philip has lead their team of highly experienced internationally trained chefs.

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Owners’ Profiles Director of Operations – Stephanie Reynolds A chef with over 25 years experience, Stephanie trained in New Zealand at one of the best hotel chains in the world.

Beginning her career in the 80’s with an apprenticeship at The Regent Hotel Auckland, she then spent time in the UK cooking at 5 Star establishments, including The Regent Hotel London and Orcinos Restaruant in Holland Park.

Returning home to Auckland in 1995 Stephanie then spent 2 years as Sous Chef at Mikano’s Restaurant in Mechanics Bay before starting the Difference Catering Company in 1997. Stephanie’s constant high standards of service and professionalism coupled with innovative food, menu creation and event management from the initial contact to the completion of your function means that we can ensure a wonderful experience.

U.S.A. | CALIFORNIA

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The grandeur of the Beverly Wilshire

By Tim Roxborogh

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y taxi driver couldn’t stop laughing at a tale of a passenger who couldn’t stop crying. Apparently the last time he’d dropped someone off at the Beverly Wilshire the young Romeo had come running back out to his cab deeply distressed at the price for the room. “This isn’t a backpackers’!” chortled my driver with such wicked enthusiasm I suspected he thought I’d be running back to him too.

Indeed, the Beverly Wilshire is no backpackers’ and, as was my good fortune, I was a guest at this famed address for two nights. I’d sought out the Beverly Wilshire for the same reasons I’ve stayed in places like Melbourne’s Hotel Windsor and Sydney’s InterContinental…not just for the luxury but the architecture and history as well.

Perhaps best known for being the Pretty Woman hotel (Julia Roberts, Richard Gere, 1990), the 86 year old Beverly Wilshire has also been suitably A-list worthy as to have been the residence for Warren Beatty for no less than 10 years in the 60s and 70s. John Lennon spent much of his Ono-less lost weekend at the Beverly Wilshire in the early-mid 70s and Elvis would also hunker down for extended periods during his run of films in the 60s. Steve McQueen was said to have met his wife here in 1977.

Fast forward to the present day and whether it’s a breakfast or lunch at the photogenic The Blvd, a steak dinner at Wolfgang Puck’s acclaimed Cut or a drink at Sidebar, it’s not unheard of to be in the company of folks with surnames like Spielberg, Pitt, Jolie or Cruise.

And it’s that factor that is one of my unexpected favourite things about LA. In this most pretentious of cities, there’s something surprisingly unpretentious about being a member of the public and being able to stroll into the

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five-star Beverly Wilshire and grab a drink or meal with some of the biggest names in showbiz.

I say “unpretentious” because it’s not like the showbiz elite have stopped coming to the Beverly Wilshire because you and I are there. It’s also not like you’re not let in the door unless the doorman knows your name.

That said, the knowing of your name is big part of why I loved staying here. Of course the opulence of the chandeliers and marble set the scene, but so too the human interactions. It’s one thing for the porter who drops off your luggage to have read your reservation and said, “Enjoy your stay Mr Roxborogh.” But when it’s two days later and the maid cleaning your room knows your name, it sticks in your mind. Either that or I was memorably messy.

This is a hotel, which has hosted President Obama, has 395 rooms and the largest hotel penthouse in LA, and from the doorman to the porter to the pool attendant to the maid, they all remembered my name. There were other small touches that stood out too, reminding me of the truism that large hotels needn’t be impersonal. My luggage had just been brought to my room, I tipped the porter and lay down on my living room couch, because when you’re staying in a suite with multiple rooms, you make sure you use them all. Beginning to feel very pleased with myself in my new pad, the doorbell then rings again and I assume it must be the porter having forgotten something. When I open the door it’s a different chap, this time an elderly gentleman.

Like his younger colleague he is decked out in Beverly Wilshire regalia, only instead of delivering luggage he is delivering cupcakes on a tray with a Wilshire and Rodeo street sign model made entirely out of chocolate.

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Truth be told, it wasn’t until the following day I realised the street signs were edible and, like the staff knowing my name, not to mention the personalised welcome card in the room, these were the flourishes that made this stay particularly unique.

As the chocolate street signs said, the Beverly Wilshire sits directly at the foot of Rodeo Drive on Wilshire Boulevard. In a city as spread out as LA it can be hard choosing not only which hotel, but also which suburb.

Indeed the most-touristed suburbs are really sub-cities: places like Downtown LA, Hollywood, Sunset Strip, Santa Monica, Century City and in my case, Beverly Hills.

Of course there are dozens of suburbs worth staying at and exploring in LA, but Beverly Hills shouldn’t be dismissed as being merely the domain of tourists wanting to shop at expensive stores and dine in chic restaurants.

Yes, the fashion and culinary drawcards of Beverly Hills are immense – the Beverly Wilshire’s Cut is regarded as one of LA’s premiere steakhouses – but there are a couple of underplayed factors in Beverly Hills’ favour when deciding where in LA to stay.

First off, the Beverly Wilshire’s grand architecture is worthy of its preeminent position in Beverly Hills. However the suburb itself is also prime in its location. There’s no downplaying LA’s sprawl, but at least in Beverly Hills you are located within a reasonable cab-fare of other must-visit neighbourhoods like Santa Monica, Downtown and Hollywood.

The initial reason for my LA visit was to see the last remaining Bee Gee, Barry Gibb, in concert at the Hollywood Bowl and the fare from the Beverly Wilshire was a very doable $30. Along the way I realised something no one tells you about LA…it’s deceptively beautiful. Which brings me to the second underplayed factor in favour of staying in Beverly Hills…walking. (Look out for an upcoming feature of mine in Let’s Travel about the joys of walking in LA).

In the meantime let me state it was Beverly Hills where it first registered this was the thing to do. Being driven from the Beverly Wilshire to the Hollywood Bowl I was captivated by the beauty of the homes and gardens of this iconic zip code (90210) and the surrounding neighbourhoods.

Photos from moving vehicles are only so good, so the day after Gibb’s triumphant Hollywood night, I set out on foot with camera in hand from the Beverly Wilshire to the pricey stores of Rodeo Drive and through the suburban streets. No house was the same, no garden an exercise in mediocrity. With guaranteed sunshine – rain only falls in LA 35 days a year – I decided this most famous of cities is strangely underrated. For 86 years there’s no been no better place to discover its charms than the Beverly Wilshire. ➜ www.fourseasons.com/beverlywilshire ➜ www.lovebeverlyhills.com

g n i h c i r n E o S Explore the hidden paradise of the South Pacific archipelago, comprising of a vast group of 922 breathtaking tropical islands.

War relics from World War II form an important part in the history of the Solomon Islands. Guadalcanal, Iron Bottom Sound and Tulagi are synonymous with war historians a nd veterans. “The Pacific” and 1998 Hollywood blockbuster, “Thin Red Line” have featured the Solomon Islands. Some of the fiercest fighting of the war took place in and around Honiara. Here in 1942.

FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT: Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau Head Office PO Box 321, Mendana Avenue, Honiara, Solomon Islands call (677) 22442 or email info@sivb.com.sb

www.visitsolomons.com.sb

SO SOLOMONS, SO DIFFERENT!

Experience the seemingly untouched battle sites; Betikama School Relics, Bonegi River, American War Memorial, Vilu War Museum, Bloody Ridge, Alligator Creek, Thin Red Line and The Matanikau River. There are many battle sites and relics of the war to be found not only around Honiara, but throughout the Solomon Islands whether it be on land or under the sea.

NEW ZEALAND | THE LANGHAM, AUCKLAND

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A City Haven

By Gayle Dickson

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hy should we allow our inner city hotels to be enjoyed only by visitors? Hubby and I recently discovered that it’s a wonderful treat to check in to local hotels and luxuriate in a little pampering, away from the phones and teens. It’s like having a second honeymoon, especially when that pampering is being conducted Langham style!

A few weeks back, we duly reserved a Club Room at the Langham Auckland. Our hectic schedules tried to scuttle our plans for a leisurely high tea and spa treatment, but we were determined to make it work.

I arrived long before hubby, and was swiftly checked in to our suite and shown around the Club Lounge located on Level 10 and reserved for guests staying on the Club floor or in any of the Suites. I had invited a girlfriend to join me for a sumptuous Tiffin high tea in the Palm Court.

We were astounded by the number of teas and coffees on offer and thanked our lucky stars that our waiter was so knowledgeable. His advice proved successful as we leisurely consumed a variety of teas to accompany each level of the well-stocked caddy. From savoury to sweet, it was an absolute delight to nibble on perfectly apportioned sandwiches, canapés and sweet treats. Our afternoon delight also included a glass of Louis Roederer Champagne and fabulous English-style scones with jam and cream. I did actually wonder quietly to myself whether it had been a good idea to partake of a high tea so fulfilling when we had reservations for their restaurant, Eight, that very evening!

For those who aren’t aware of Eight or what it offers, picture this: a luxurious food court. Well, that’s really not fair – it’s far more decadent and tasteful than a food court! There are essentially eight interactive kitchens and you can eat at one, two, three – or all eight! The qualified chefs at each kitchen will whip you up a delectable bounty of seafood, Indian and Asian cuisine and more. At the grille you can select from any number of meats and have them grilled to your liking, including ostrich and kangaroo.

If you prefer Asian dining, there were noodles, dim sum, sushi and sashimi. Hubby tucked into the authentic Indian curries that were accompanied by fresh naan bread and delicious chutneys. Who could walk past the Oyster bar

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and other fresh seafood on offer? Not us! And somewhere, we managed to fit in a small taster from the impressive selection of pastries, waffles and other dessert tasters. I did manage to by-pass the chocolate fountain and marshmallow dippers though! Our tip when booking: make sure you’re hungry on arrival, and allow yourself a whole evening to relax and enjoy it all. Don’t rush this one!

With a big rugby game on the box that night, and hubby chomping at the bit to see the results, we headed up to the Club Lounge where espresso coffee and other treats were on offer. By the end of the game, we were essentially nodding off, well sated, and headed to our room where the plush bed awaited.

Did you know that you can purchase a Langham Blissful Bed and Mattress Sleep Set along with the bedding? Sure got me thinking in terms of my Christmas gift this year! The double-glazed windows and thick, silky curtains dampened out the city noise beyond and we both slept like logs.

After a lazy breakfast in the Club Lounge (we could have

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opted for Eight again, but I preferred to let the memories of that exquisite dinner linger a little longer) we headed to the Chuan Spa for a little extra pampering. On the same level, you’ll discover the pool and fitness area – and even on this grey overcast day, there were quite a few out there as the saltwater pool and Jacuzzi are comfortably heated.

Undressed and robed, we headed to our couples’ treatment room where our two therapists massaged away every single tension of the preceding week. The personalised treatments, based on the principals of Yin and Yang, relaxed not only our bodies, but our minds, too. What a treat! Do ask about their Discover Chuan Spa package if you’re checking in for the first time!

Sadly, all good things must come to and end. A swiftly conducted checkout ensured our valet-parked cars were delivered to the forecourt in no time at all, bags were stowed and we were seen on our way. Back to reality. I wonder if the teens missed us? ➜ www.auckland.langhamhotels.co.nz

NEW ZEALAND | HELIPRO

Viewed from above

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ELiPRO is a New Zealand owned company, operating helicopters ranging in capacity from two to seven passengers, single or twin engine are available with an option of a two pilot crew. An aerial itinerary will get you quickly around the countryside making the most of New Zealand’s scenic highlights. Inter-lodge and airport transfers can be arranged to meet your touring requirements to most of New Zealand’s top lodges.

Lake Taupo is New Zealand’s largest lake and is the product of one of the world’s largest eruptions dated around 186 AD and the township of Taupo hosts one of Helipro’s main tourist bases. The crystal clear trout mecca, lies between the snow-clad World Heritage Tongariro National Park, the remote Kaimanawa Forest Park and the resort township. Lake Taupo is also the source of the mighty Waikato River, NZ’s longest river and site of the powerful and dramatic Huka Falls.

Helipro Scenic Tours and Flights take place over all these areas with most scenery best visible by air including Mt. Ruapehu’s steaming crater lake, stunning lava flows,

inspiring glacial valleys and dramatic volcanic formations.

Take a snow landing on the edge of the Kaimanawa Forest Park or a riverside landing beside the remote Rangitikei River. Helipro also offer full or half day Fly Fishing packages from Taupo to the Rangitikei River.

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To the north Helipro has exclusive landing rights onto Mt. Tarawera. Home to the largest eruption in New Zealand’s living memory, this volcano holds an enchanting presence experienced by those visitors lucky enough to stand upon it. A variety of colourful lakes, volcanoes and geothermal reserves also define this unique region.

A trek to the sunny Hawke’s Bay is within 40 minutes flight time from Taupo, and the scenery en-route is amazing.

A vineyard stop can add a dimension of relaxation expected as part of any great holiday experience, or perhaps a round of golf at the internationally recognised Cape Kidnappers Golf Course. Both these activities are popular touring options from our Taupo base.

White Island is within 1 hours flight time from Taupo. In earthly terms it’s as close to walking on the moon as you can get. Helipro provides a rare opportunity to trek on the crater floor of our only active offshore volcano. This ‘lunar’ experience is a reminder of Mother Nature’s raw power and beauty on a once in a lifetime journey around New Zealand’s most active volcano.

New Zealand is blessed with stunning scenery across her Southern Latitudes. From active volcanoes to snow clad alps, subtropical forests and pristine beaches, the scenery is simply unequalled.

Coupled with diverse and dramatic landscape is an intriguing mix of Maori culture and Kiwi spirit, with a friendly yet determined approach to life forged by pioneering settlers determined to make God’s Own country home.

At Helipro they enjoy sharing these special places with guests from around the world and take pride in delivering experiences that they know last for a lifetime. Not just because of the stunning scenery but also because of the people who deliver them!

They also have some amazing combo packages to make your stay memorable and they guarantee to you that the guides and operators that Helipro choose to combine with are the very best available. ➜ www.helipro.co.nz

Taupo water adventures Destination Great Lake Taupo

NEW ZEALAND | TAUPO

By David Whitley

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Maori Rock Carvings and kayaking

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he lake is feistier than usual. A steadfast wind is blowing up, sending the usually serene waters into a nagging chop. It turns what was planned to be a leisurely kayaking trip into a muscular challenge.

Tongue out in concentration, I find myself pushing my body into every stroke as the spray gives an all-over splashing.

They’re the strokes of a Polynesian warrior in a war canoe rather than a tourist on a pleasant afternoon outing.

A sense of fight takes over – battling through nature rather than gliding along with it. And it takes pulling over into a quiet bay for us to be properly able to enjoy the scenery.

Look at any map of the North Island and it seems as though everything has been built around Lake Taupo. It’s a gorgeous centrepiece, with the soaring volcanoes of Ruapehu and Tongariro looming in the distance on the lake’s far shore.

The fishing boats and pleasure cruisers on the horizon make the lake seem like a haven of placidity, but the choppy conditions act as a reminder that Lake Taupo isn’t exactly a gentle giant. Beneath the water, a monster lurks. It’s not just a lake – it’s a caldera, and if it ever erupts (again), it’ll make any volcanic event in New Zealand’s inhabited history seem like mere blips.

When Taupo did “go off” in 186AD, the blood red skies could be seen as far away as China. It covered the surrounding areas with 100 cubic kilometres of rock and debris. For a sense of scale, that’s five-and-a-half times more than Krakatoa managed in its infamous 1883 eruption. Taupo changed the way the North Island looked…forever.

Cheery thoughts of inevitable destruction are put aside at Mine Bay, where the major attraction is man-made rather than natural. In the late 70’s, Maori carver Matahi WhakatakaBrightwell came here and decided to use the cliffs as a canvas. He was a woodcarver by training, so had to learn the very different techniques of stone carving, and started by altering the rocks by the side of the main cliff. He started off small and gradually got more ambitious, eventually leading to the large rock lizard that sits surveying the scene today.

But the major effort took four years, using no measuring tools aside from a keen eye. The main carving, of Ngatoroirangi, the Maori navigator who brought the Tuwharetoa and Te Arawa tribes to Taupo, around a millennium ago, is over 10 metres tall. It’s a phenomenal effort, and in a spot with no land access. He’d have been hanging from the cliff while carving it. Suddenly, the struggle of getting out here in the kayak doesn’t seem quite as heroic.

NEW ZEALAND | TAUPO

Chris McLennan/ Tourism New Zealand

Master Details of Rock carving, Lake Taupo David Whitley

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New Zealand Riverjet

Once back on dry land, it’s time to head slightly north to a bridge, roughly half way between Taupo and Rotorua.

Instead of battling against the current in a kayak, it’s judicious to use a bit of jet power to explore.

New Zealand River Jet gives its jet boats a proper work out, powering down the river at high speeds with the driver taking you as close to canyon walls and potentially perilous rock islands as he dares. The thrill is in not quite knowing how much you can trust the person behind the wheel. Just how many times have they done this? And, jeez, that 360 degree spin was a bit close for comfort…

The wind rushes through the hair, the tricks get gnarlier and the thrill builds. But, oddly, the most joy comes when the boat slows down and gently comes to a halt by one of the Waikato’s numerous forested gorges.

facts:

NEW ZEALAND | TAUPO

David Whitley

Rapid Sensations (+ 64 7 374 8117, ➜ www.rapids.co.nz) offers regular kayaking trips out to the Maori carvings at Mine Bay. Fully guided tours with drinks and snacks cost $98 The Squeeze trip costs $145 with New Zealand River Jet (+ 64 7 333 7111, ➜ www.riverjet.co.nz David stayed at the YHA Taupo (56 Kaimanawa St, + 64 7 378 3311 ➜ www.yha.co.nz). It does a great job of creating a sociable-yet-homely vibe, with dorm beds costing from $20.70 and ensuite doubles from $72

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Destination Great Lake Taupo

Sailing on Lake Taupo

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As New Zealand’s longest river snakes its way towards the Tasman Sea, it is joined by hundreds of tributaries.

Some of these pump cold water in (and you’ll always find trout hanging around where these hit the Waikato) but others have an extra geothermal edge. The tumultuous underbelly of the North Island creates an awful lot of hot springs, and many of these create toasty little streams, flowing into the river.

It’s by the confluence with one of these warm streams that we stop. The warm and cold currents are immediately obvious as we wade through, but the stream soon disappears into a rock wall. “That’s where we’re going,” says the driver, pointing at the rock.

On closer inspection, there is a narrow gap…a VERY narrow gap. There is, apparently, a reason they call it “The Squeeze”. Even breathing in, my chest is pressed against one side, and my back against the other. To push through would draw plenty of blood.

The call goes up to duck down lower – where there’s more room – and attack it head first. It’s a claustrophobic dive into something that looks rather painful, but it works.

The even bigger bloke behind manages it as well.

We timidly step along the stream bed, feeling the way ahead in case any submerged rocks attempt to snag us, and stop just before another dark passage through the rock.

“You’re going to love this,” says the jet boat driver who has almost seamlessly morphed into a canyoning guide. “This place is special.”

We walk through and encounter a waterfall. It has carved out two seats beneath where the water, at perfect shower temperature, is thundering down. And sitting down beneath it, inside a long narrow crag cut into the earth, is far more impressive than any number of jet boat spins.

AUSTRALIA | SYDNEY

The Menzies Hotel

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njoy a prime location in Sydney, with famous attractions including the Sydney Opera House, The Rocks, Sydney Harbour Bridge, Darling Harbour Precinct and The Royal Botanic Gardens all just a short stroll away.

Rail and city buses are available right at the doorstep and the hotel also has the luxury of direct rail access to the airport.

On the 17th October 1963 a milestone was achieved, the opening of Sydney’s Menzies Hotel by Premier R.J. Heffron. The hotel was named after Sir Archibald Menzies, Australia’s pioneer hotelier.

The Menzies was built at a cost of two and a half million pounds and contained 260 guest rooms and suites plus restaurants, lounges and cocktail bars. It was the first international hotel to be built in the city since the eve of World War II. Some sections of the hotel basements are over a hundred years old and contained former railway workshops.

An invitation to The Emperor Room on the hotel’s first floor became the most sought after dinner date. 500

facts: The Menzies Sydney 14 Carrington Street Sydney 2000 T: + 61 2 9299 1000, E: H2977-RE@accor.com

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guests could be seated on tiered floors overlooking the dance floor where cabaret artists and musicians performed each evening amidst the restaurant’s Roman purple and gold decor. Skating stars also displayed their talents on the restaurant’s showpiece - a permanent, retractable ice rink.

Fast forward a few years and in March 2000 the hotel joined the international Accor chain of hotels, and in mid-2004 was renamed to simply The Menzies Sydney Hotel, an Accor hotel.

Today, The Menzies Sydney continues to make history, winning a number of accolades for its continued warm hospitality and traditional friendly service.

Steeped in history and exuding an old-world charm so rare in modern Sydney, unwind with a drink in the stylish Piano Bar whilst enjoying the relaxing sounds from resident pianist Kylie Stephens. The intimate atmosphere of Piano Bar is the ideal setting for a pre-dinner drink or after dinner nightcap. (Pianist only plays Friday and Saturday Nights 7:30pm - late) Superior rooms come in two configurations - King and Double Double. Perfectly positioned with plenty of space in the north wing of the hotel, some with views across Wynyard Park, boasting high ceilings and shower over bath. Suitable for families, couples and corporate guests.

The location, service and hospitality of this property has seen me stya here several times over the past few years…and I will continue to do so, whether I am in Sydney on business or for leisure.

AUSTRALIA | SYDNEY

➜ www.sydneymenzieshotel.com.au

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he locals call it The Tilt Train, to the tourists it’s the ‘Spirit of Queensland’ and it is fast gaining a reputation as one of the most popular ways to explore Queensland’s coastal destinations.

If you love travelling by train then this journey, which takes you from Brisbane in the South to Cairns in Tropical North Queensland, is an absolute must.

I recently took the journey and joined the train in Bundaberg, some 380 kilometres from Brisbane. The state of the art ‘Spirit of Queensland’ arrived in Bundaberg just after 8pm. I had booked a new revolutionary rail bed which, for an overnight journey, is a must.

These rail beds are an Australian first and are very similar to the new seating arrangements that Air New Zealand have introduced on their aircraft. It’s a seat by day, but becomes a very spacious, comfortable bed for night travel. The seat/bed comes complete with its own personal entertainment system, a 240v power point (ideal for plugging in computers or charging mobile phones). The on board screen gives you access to top movies and TV Shows along with a range of music and audio channels that give you commentary of the towns you either stop at or pass through. It was a great way to learn about the North Queensland region.

On boarding the train in Bundaberg I was greeted by a hostess who made me feel very welcome. She pointed out all the facilities my surroundings had to offer including a full evening meal menu which is delivered to your seat. Once dinner and drinks are over it was just a case of sitting back, relaxing and enjoying the very gentle quiet motion of the train. I have to say it is one of the quietest trains I have ever travelled on.

When it came time to settle down for the night, it was a matter of pressing the button for your hostess to come and set up the bed. With the push of a couple of buttons my comfortable seat became a very spacious bed. Being just on 6’4” I was a little concerned about fitting… not a problem at all. Other on board facilities in my carriage included a very spacious bathroom, complete with shower.

AUSTRALIA | QUEENSLAND

By Brian Kelly

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Spirit of Queensland

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Queensland Rail has done a wonderful job in planning the journey. As day breaks you open the blinds to large areas of sugar cane fields as you begin to approach places like McKay, Rockhampton, Bowen and Townsville.

Once you are ready to have your bed converted back to a seat just push for service and within minutes the bed has disappeared and it’s time for breakfast to be delivered.

Having the audio available in my seat was a great way to learn about the towns and cities we were approaching and at times stopping at. Travelling by rail you learn so much about the history of a region and at a slower pace.

Along our journey to Cairns we passed over the Burdkan River Bridge, which is one of the longest multi-span bridges in Australia. At 1,103 metres it is longer than the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

We stopped briefly at a little town called Tully which, according to the on board commentary is one of Australia’s wettest towns. Tully took a big hit on the 3rd of February 2011 when Cyclone Yasi destroyed over 90% of the town’s

main street with wind gusts estimated at 300 kph.

If a rail bed is not for you, The Spirit of Queensland also offers a Premium economy class, which feature new full leather seats. There is also the opportunity on board to visit the club car where you can enjoy a light meal and meet fellow travellers and hear their stories.

The Spirit arrived in Carins just before 5 in the evening and I have to say I arrived there feeling very refreshed and extremely well informed about the Tropical North.

One of the things I love about rail travel, and there are a lot, is the feeling of relaxation, from the moment you arrive at the station to leave on your journey to your arrival.

The ‘Spirit of Queensland’ departs Brisbane at 3.45 in the afternoon and arrives in Cairns around 5pm the next day. For the return leg…the train departs Cairns at 8.05am and arrives in Brisbane at 9am the following day. ➜ www.railplus.co.nz ➜ www.queenslandholidays.co.nz

More than just Rum Town

AUSTRALIA | QUEENSLAND

By Brian Kelly

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Bundaberg has over 500 hectares of parkland and one worth a visit is The Botanic Gardens. There you can ride an authentic cane train, walk through a beautifully restored sugar plantation house built in 1890 and if you enjoy aviation check out the Bert Hinkler Aviation Hall. He’s probably Bundaberg’s most famous son. It’s more than just a museum. The Hall features multimedia exhibits, a flight simulator and the Globe Theater. The kids will love it.

There is so much to see and do in Bundaberg it really is worth taking a little extra time on your trip and visiting the Southern Great Barrier Reef region.

facts:

Bundaberg Distillery ➜ www.bundabergrum.com.au

Mon Repos Turtles ➜ www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/mon-repos

Grunske’s By The River ➜ www.grunskesbytheriver.com.au

Southern Great Barrier Reef ➜ www.southerngreatbarrierreef.com.au

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he first surprise on my flight from Brisbane to Bundaberg was just how easy and quick it was to get there.

Bundaberg is just a 45min flight, some 350 kilometres from Brisbane and it’s a region that is full of surprises and well worth a visit.

The Bundaberg North Burnett region gives you a great taste of life in the region they call the Southern Great Barrier Reef.

Bundaberg is a modern progressive city serving a district of over 112,000 people. With the Great Barrier Reef just off the Coast it offers plenty for the tourists from swimming and diving to exploring the beaches and visiting the Mon Repos Turtle sanctuary. That’s a must.

The first thing that comes to mind when you think of Bundaberg is either Rum or Ginger beer. The region is famous for both and a visit to the Bundaberg Rum factory is recommended. I didn’t realize there were so many different varieties of Rum, but I guess that comes from not being a Rum drinker. Another of Bundaberg’s famous brews is its Ginger beer and again it’s worth visiting the Bundaberg Barrel and learning the history of their famous beverage.

The Bundaberg region is one of Australia’s great food bowls with many varieties of fresh produce available at the local; markets, restaurants and cafes. The locals pride themselves on their fresh fruit and produce. Incidentally Bundaberg is known as the tomato capital of Australia… then there’s the fish.

A visit to Grunske’s By The River is an absolute must.

If you time it right you can watch the fishing boats arriving at Grunske’s wharf, on the banks of the Burnett River, unloading their catch and then ordering what you have just seen being unloaded. It doesn’t come much fresher…and then there are the prawns.

Spa Sojourn ASIA | BALI

By Gayle Dickson

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he Island of Bali is renowned for long stretches of beaches, lush greenery and, in my humble opinion, relaxation. Sure, there are more bars and restaurants than you can shake a stick at, especially around Kuta and Seminyak, but it’s the delightful spas and pampering treatments that truly inspired me. They’re extremely cheap by most standards, but you wouldn’t know that from the service you receive. A basic massage can start from as little as NZ$20 for a full hour, so everyone can afford to incorporate at least one massage a day!

Body Temple Spa – Canggu, Seminyak & Uluwatu The newly opened Body Temple Spa at Canggu Club is set in sumptuous surroundings. Muted hues of natural stone and wood offer an understated elegance.

The fully inclusive spa menu features waxing and nail services in addition to unique body treatments and spa packages. All-natural tea-based products from Themae are used to detox, rejuvenate, relax and energise. Staff have undergone over 280 hours of Themae training in order to ensure clients receive an holistic experience that encompasses age old Asian techniques and elegance of movement and fluidity in each and every treatment.

Expert techniques, well-designed facials, massages and body treatments, unparalleled service and top quality products all combine to create an experience that is unique to you and your needs on a given day.

Spring Spa – Petitenget Well known to Aucklanders and now available in both Wellington and Bali, Spring Spa offers their renowned Bliss facials, signature Spring massages, a nail bar, blow waves and scalp treatments, as well as a makeup area. The cutting edge atmosphere is funky and upbeat - soothing tones are mixed by the resident DJ while you’re kept hydrated by offerings from the liquid bar.

Spring offers a multi-sensory journey and is one of the few built around the concept of a social spa. Enjoy treatments in the open with a group of friends, or draw the curtains for privacy when desired. Clients also have a choice of iPad or iPod use. Leading brands such as Bliss, Dr Jacksons, Heal Gel and Clarisonic are utilised.

ASIA | BALI

Body Temple Spa

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Spring Spa

Spread over numerous levels in an upmarket enclave that offers high end fashion stores and world renowned restaurants, Spring Spa Bali has only recently opened yet is already a major draw card.

ASIA | BALI

Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa

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High on the rooftop level of the hotel awaits the Anantara Spa, a haven from the busy surrounding area of Seminyak.

From the moment you enter the beautiful surrounds, a sense of balance and serenity surrounds you.

Elixirs and oils made from the finest Indonesian ingredients are nutrient-rich and luxuriously aromatic, including exotics like volcanic pumice and Bali coffee beans.

Their Signature Massage is offered in both 60 and 90 minute treatments, featuring purpose-designed movements to stimulate the circulation and promote deep relaxation while restoring energy flow. There are two couples’ rooms as well as single rooms, and clients have a choice of music that is piped through individual iPods.

Anantara Bali Uluwatu Resort & Spa Designed to reflect a traditional Balinese rice barn, this Anantara Spa is a tranquil haven offering four single rooms, one couples’ room and a Bale treatment area. Clients can also partake of hair treatments, manicures and pedicures.

I partook of their Traditional Balinese massage, a ritual that dates back many thousands of years. Drawing its roots from a mix of traditional Chinese massage and Indian Ayurvedic therapy, it is designed to relieve strained muscles and joints. Rigorous combinations of long, gliding movements, skin rolling and firm kneading warm and relax you, and also boost circulation.

A firm favourite is the Sensual Spice Odyssey – a full 200 minutes of pampering that includes a floral foot ritual, exotic ginger and spice body polish, energising massage, an aromatic facial and refreshments. You’ll leave feeling like a new person!

Bali Blue Karma Spa - Seminyak Tucked into the serenely lush gardens of Bali Blue Karma in Seminyak, the spa offers treatments, slimming programs and retreats such as a detox program, fitness boot camp and rejuvenating workshops. With back massages starting around the NZ$10 mark, it’s vital to book well in advance!

The Four Handed massage was a real treat, while the Hot Stone treatment promoted a deep sense of relaxation.

Also on offer are aromatherapy, hydro, reflexology, deep tissue, shiatsu, Balinese and Thai treatments.

Other treatments on offer that I didn’t try out were teeth whitening, facials, manis and pedis, and Ratus. The latter is designed to freshen and improve the health of a woman’s most intimate organ and there are few places offering the treatment!

The Spa at Sentosa – Seminyak This world-class spa offers a range of natural therapies and wellness packages, from cleansing and detox to healing, balance and beauty.

For something a little different, I checked in for a Chocolate Fondue – two and a quarter hours of chocoholic heaven! After a foot soak, the therapist

Getting there: Air New Zealand offers seasonal non-stop flights to Bali from Auckland over the June – October period, with connections from across the New Zealand domestic network. ➜ www.airnewzealand.co.nz

Anantara Spa ➜ www.anantara.com Bali Blue Karma ➜ www.balibluekarma.com Peppers Sentosa ➜ www.pepperssentosaseminyak.com

Semara’s Body Temple Spa ➜ http://bodytemplebali.com Spring Spa ➜ www.springspa.com

Tugu Hotel’s Waroeng Djamoe Spa ➜ www.tuguhotels.com

Goela, the whole ritual revolves around water treatment and massage based on dance movements. In Kamar Mantra, as the name suggests, the therapist chants mantra while using heated, soothing oils while in Kamar Samedhi, a Javanese meditation that was in existence long before Buddhism, is practiced. Stones from China and Central Java are heated in traditional steamers.

The resort offers a range of packages that include spa treatments.

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Waroeng Djamoe Spa – Canggu Located at Tugu Hotel on the surf and sunset beach at Canguu, you wouldn’t know that you’re only 15 minutes from downtown Seminyak. Peace and serenity pervade every nook and cranny of the delightful resort, and the spa is no exception!

Offering ancient and authentic Indonesian treatments, you’ll achieve a complete balance of mind, body and soul in individually designed rooms that suit each treatment on offer. Whether you choose an alfresco or indoor treatment, be prepared to sublimate! The signature treatment in Gugug Ngelamum is the Keraton Leha-leha, a head-to-toe pampering combining Javanese massage, a spice scrub and milk bath. In Kamar Molek Seger Waras, you drift away in a bathtub before experiencing Balinese and Javanese treatments on hundred-year-old massage beds. In Dadang

facts:

ASIA | BALI

provides a traditional Balinese massage and follows this with body exfoliation and then smears you in a rich, creamy milk chocolate body mask. You’re wrapped up and left to snooze - if you can ignore the delicious scent of chocolate!

Once the wrap is removed, you’re invited to soak in a deep warm chocolate bath while sipping on a refreshingly chilled drink and nibbles on slices of fresh fruit. It was so tempting not to sip! The treatment is completed with a generous application of chocolate body lotion, leaving your skin soft, smooth and silky while your senses are completely soothed by the treatments and the chocolate aromas.

Believe me, at just on NZ$120, this is worth its weight in chocolate – even if you’re on a strict diet – although next time I may be tempted into the 4.5 hour Absolute Treat!

Waroeng Djamoe Spa

U.S.A. | COLORADO

Enjoy the Mile High City

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elcome to Denver – The Mile High City – where a modern, creative city combines with a vibrant outdoor lifestyle to offer the ultimate urban adventure. Located near the base of the spectacular Rocky Mountains, Denver’s casual atmosphere, unique neighbourhoods and 850 miles of paved biking and walking paths encourage exploration.

Denver’s walkable downtown, centred around the 16th Street Pedestrian Mall, seamlessly blends Victorian architecture with modern design. With upscale shopping in Cherry Creek, locally sourced cuisine in Larimer Square, new microbreweries in Highlands and creative galleries along the Art District on Santa Fe, Denver entertains all year round.

Outdoor enthusiasts and urban adventurers flock to Denver for days that could include anything from daytrips of hiking or biking to museum-hopping and fresh dining right in the heart of the city. With its close proximity to the Rocky Mountains, Colorado’s modern capital city is the gateway to the world’s best ski resorts, and features the perfect

combination of urban excitement and outdoor adventure.

Discover Denver’s locally-sourced cuisine, with a variety of restaurants and outdoor cafés along the 16th Street Mall, a mile-long pedestrian promenade featuring a free electric shuttle bus, in Lower Downtown (LoDo) with 90 bars and restaurants, or on Larimer Square, the city’s oldest – and one of the most charming – neighbourhood blocks. All are filled with locally-sourced dining, breweries, art galleries and boutique shopping. The revitalised Denver Union Station is the city’s transportation hub, and is also home to chef-owned eateries, the Crawford Hotel and one-of-a-kind shops that infuse this historic landmark with a trendy, new vibe.

Red Rocks Park & Amphitheatre (only 30 minutes from Downtown) is a must-see, with stunning sandstone formations making it an acoustically perfect venue for a concert under the stars. Or enjoy scenic views of the foothills by day, on hiking trails that surround the park.

Don’t be surprised if you see the city’s fittest residents participating in massive yoga sessions and fitness classes inside the amphitheatre on a sunny morning.

U.S.A. | COLORADO

Venture out on two wheels! Bike-friendly paths connect downtown to the city’s diverse neighbourhoods and Denver’s expansive bike-sharing program, Denver B-cycle, makes it a breeze to visit all the must-see attractions.

Ride the path to the Daniel Libeskind designed Denver Art Museum for Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century (Nov. 16, 2014-March 15, 2015) and their world-renowned American Indian Art Collection, or pedal to the Museum of Contemporary Art for Mark Mothersbaugh: Myopia (Oct. 30, 2014-April 5, 2015) and a cocktail at the museums rooftop bar.

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Denver produces more beer than any other city and is known as the brewing capital of the nation. Besides the huge breweries of Coors and Anheuser-Busch, Denver is filled with microbreweries and brewpubs, many within walking distance of each other in downtown Denver. While some brewpubs produce what is commonly thought of as “American” style lagers, many of the beers are traditional European, Belgian and British style ales – or completely experimental “Colorado” styles made with local ingredients. Stop in Denver’s Visitor Information Center in downtown and pick up your own “Denver Beer Trail” to get a taste of the city’s top breweries and beers.

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In City Park, stop by two of the city’s most popular destinations, the Denver Zoo and the Denver Museum of Nature & Science. Enjoy Denver’s 300 days of sunshine by strolling through the Denver Botanic Gardens or, for the adventurous types, spend the day at Elitch Gardens Theme & Water Park, featuring roller coasters, water slides, live entertainment and more. Many of Denver’s top attractions can be visited for a bargain price using the Mile High Culture Pass, which can be purchased on their website VISITDENVER.com or at one of the Visitor Information Centers in the city.

Only five minutes from downtown is the Cherry Creek neighbourhood, Denver’s premier shopping district. The combination of Cherry Creek North and the Cherry Creek Shopping Center makes this the largest and most varied shopping destination between Chicago and San Francisco.

Be sure to stop by the guest services desk at the Cherry Creek Shopping Center to receive a free “Passport to Shopping” pass offering discounts to more than 60 retailers.

Cherry Creek North boasts 320 independently owned shops, boutiques, galleries, restaurants, and spas, Cherry Creek North offers 16 blocks of retail bliss.

Denver is the gateway to urban and mountain adventures. Only about an hour from Downtown, you can climb a “14er”, a 14,000 foot (or 4,267 metre) mountain.

Located in Clear Creek County, part of the Rocky Mountain Range, Mount Bierstadt is considered an easy and easily accessible climb throughout the summer and autumn.

After a morning climb, bike ride or raft adventure, you can be back in the city for dinner at celebrity chef-owned restaurants and intimate bars, ride through historic downtown on a horse-drawn carriage or pedi-cab, catch major league sports, or see theatre, music and dance in America’s second-largest performing arts complex.

facts: ➜ www.VISITDENVER.com

For the Denver beer trail ➜ www.VISITDENVER.com/restaurants/denverbars-clubs/denver-beer-trail

For the Mile High Culture Pass: ➜ www.VISITDENVER.com/things-to-do/ mile-high-culture-pass

Denver’s proximity to the spectacular Rocky Mountains, 300 days of sunshine and walkable downtown create an energising outdoor city that blends a friendly Old West heritage with a vibrant and urban lifestyle.

TAHITI RUSH HOUR

Tahiti and Her Islands offer experiences that cannot be found anywhere else in the world.

Here you will find unique adventures, above land and beneath the sea. Diving into walls of sharks, crawling along lava tubes, or jumping off your own private over-water bungalow to swim in shallow turquoise lagoon waters with hundreds of tropical fish, it’s an unrivalled experience!

Fly to the worlds most beautiful islands with Air Tahiti Nui.

www.airtahitinui.co.nz T A H I T I

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REGULAR | BOOKS

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Josh’s Backyard BBQ

The Great Plains

Gallipoli

By Josh Emett, Random House, $60, November release Packed with tips on how to barbecue successfully, plus an extensive range of classic recipes from steak and chops to chicken wings and whole stuffed fish, as well as salads, sliders and vegetables.

By Nicole Alexander, Bantam, $36.99, November release From the American Wild West to the wilds of outback Queensland, from the Civil War to the Depression of the 1930s, this is an epic story about two conflicting cultures and one divided family.

By Peter Fitzsimons, Random House, $56.99, November release Now approaching its centenary, the Gallipoli campaign, commemorated each year on Anzac Day, reverberates with importance as the origin and symbol of Australian and New Zealand identity.

Visit Sunny Chernobyl: Adventures in the World’s Most Polluted Places

By Andrew Blackwell, Arrow, $27.99 The lifeless moonscapes of Canada’s oil sand strip mines; a vast vortex of plastic floating endlessly around the Pacific; an eerie abandoned town square in a radioactive Ukrainian wilderness. These are places you won’t find in any guidebook – a poignant trip through the world’s most degraded environments.

Icons of England Edited by Bill Bryson, Black Swan, $29.99 A hymn to what makes England, especially the countryside, so special. A collection of passionate, eclectic and thought-provoking pieces. Includes: Michael Palin on Crags, Eric Clapton on Newlands Corner, Bryan Ferry on Penshaw Monument, Kevin Spacey on canal boats and much more!mixes.

NEW ZEALAND | AUCKLAND

Penthouse 64

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his luxury Auckland Penthouse in the heart of downtown Auckland, has 4,500 sq feet of living area and 3,250 sq feet of outside deck providing ample space for you and your guests. The 4 sumptuous bedrooms with 3.5 bathrooms can accommodate 8 guests in superior comfort & luxury. Offering sweeping views of Auckland’s Waitemata Harbour this stunning apartment is the premier location for your accommodation when in Auckland.

Rising above the loftiest mast in the harbour below, sits Penthouse64 - slicing into the harbour like the prow of an ultra-luxurious yacht. It occupies a prime vantage position on Princes Wharf directly opposite the exclusive five star Hilton Hotel. Penthouse64 comes with secure parking. Security &

privacy are assured with direct access to the apartment via the garage. The elevator opens directly into the apartment.

Penthouse64 is in a privileged position in more ways than one. From its vantage point on the waterfront, this apartment offers spectacular nautical views. Enjoy panoramic vistas as far as Browns Island, the boats racing across from Westhaven, the Navy base at Devonport, the ferry boats in the harbour and the cruise liners coming and going. On a cool evening, the romantic flicker of the outdoor fireplace and gas heaters lets you enjoy the open air in comfort. This is the ideal location to enjoy the end of the day in the ‘City of Sails’ and watch the sun set over the Harbour Bridge. ➜ www.penthouse64.co.nz

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GRIFFIN KIOSK FLOORSTAND AND DESKTOP MOUNTS Exhibiting at trade shows? These mounts allow you to utilise your iPad, iPad2 or iPad3 in a commercial environment without risk. The housing is impact-resistant and can be swivelled through both portrait and landscape angles. Allow access to the Home button or hide it. It’s a breeze to set up and install. www.griffintechnology.com

HARKER HERBALS The Malcolm Harker range of herbal products will be now be known simply as Harker Herbals, with over 80 top quality herbal products individually crafted and formulated to help a wide range of specific ailments. All products are free from parabens, petroleum, sodium laurel sulphates and propylene glycol, and are made-traditionally using only the highest quality herbs and other natural ingredients.

New Products GO HEALTHY FISH OIL Not all fish oil supplements are created equal! Most contain omega-3 fatty acids bound to triglycerides only, causing some pretty unpleasant fishy side effects.

GO Healthy’s NEW GO Fish Oil 1,550mg Advanced Omega-PC™ contains Omega-PC™, a new generation in fish oil extract providing a superior source of omega-3 fatty acids. Better absorption, better efficacy, natural nutrient profile, no fishy burps! www.gohealthynz.co.nz

TOMS SHOES Check out the latest Summer styles available from TOMS shoes, and remember that for each pair sold, the company provides a new pair of shoes to a child in need under their One for One scheme! www.toms.com

PHILIPS SONICARE DIAMONDCLEAN BLACK Clinically proven to remove up to 100% of plaque from hard-to-reach places compared to a manual toothbrush, and to improve gum health in only two weeks. It is also clinically proven to whiten teeth in one week. It is gentler than a manual toothbrush, helping to keep teeth stronger and healthier for longer. Five brushing modes allow uses to tailor their brushing. Its chrome base also features a unique charging glass, as well as the latest in conduction technology to charge the toothbrush as it rests in the glass. Will hold a three-week charge and comes with USB travel case enabling laptop connection. From selected Farmers, Smith City, Harvey Norman and Noel Leeming stores. www.philips.co.nz/sonicare

TAXI PRICE - CHAUFFEUR SERVICE www.corporatecabs.co.nz • Trusted • Reliable • Safe Service • Luxury Vehicles • Airport Transfers • Customised Tours • Relaxing, comfortable with knowledgeable drivers

Safe - Reliable - Affordable

Personal Service

We carry your luggage

Extensive local knowledge

Quality reading onboard

Relaxing and comfortable

Airport transfers

Locations and Reservations Auckland Wellington Christchurch Dunedin Queenstown

(09) 377 0773 (04) 387 4600 (03) 379 5888 0800 789 789 0800 789 789

Explore All Oman’s Secrets T he su lta n ate of om a n There are parts of the world where the exquisite beauty has to be experienced to be believed. One of those places is Oman. Create the journey of a lifetime in an ancient land where tradition melds perfectly with modern times. Where the footsteps of prophets, kings and legends have left their mark on a majestic land. Where you’ll find serenity in the beauty of the landscape. Where visits to ancient forts, castles and souks unearth hidden treasures from a bygone era. Where the elegance and luxury of hotels envelop visitors under a blanket of stars. Beauty has an address in Oman.

Beauty has an address

www.tourismoman.com.au