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PULSE MAGAZINE: JULY 2021 COVER STORY It’s Time To Laugh Again, Worcester
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ENTERTAINMENT, ARTS & CULTURE
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Timberyad Brewing 8 Company, Crafting Beer with LIFESTYLE Creative Twist Derek Grimm 18 Danny Fantom 9 Serves Up Beverages Set Example for With Local Cocktail Emring Artists and Pop-Ups Worcester Citizens NowStreaming: 10 Mammoth WVH Entertainmant Listings
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PulseShots 13
420 in 508
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Out and About
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Style Savvy
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Finding Balance
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DINING REVIEW Dining Review: Brady’s
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Hot & Now 17 PulseBrew 18 New in the Woo: All Systems Go
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Paul Giorgio, Publisher pgiorgio@pagioinc.com Kevin La, Art Director kla@pagioinc.com Josh Lyford, Editior jlyford@pagioinc.com David Simone, Vice President, Sales dsimone@pagioinc.com
READ PULSE ONLINE: THEPULSEMAG.COM
16 Bernie Whitemore, Ryan Cashmen, Maria Connors, Josh Lyford, Travis Duda, Jason Savio, Paul Giorgio, Rachel Shuster, Giuliano D’Orazio, and Victoriahope McAuliffe Writers
FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA: TWITTER @WORCESTERPULSE • INSTAGRAM @WORCESTERPULSE • FACEBOOK.COM/THEPULSEMAGAZINE PULSE Magazine is produced 12 times a year by Pagio Inc., 134 Gold St., Worcester, MA 01608. (508) 756-5006. Copyright 2021 All rights reserved. Pagio, Inc. does not hold itself responsible for statements made by any contributor. Statements or opinions expressed in Pulse reflect the views of the author(s) and not the official policy of the Pagio, Inc., unless so stated. Although all advertising material is expected to conform to ethical standards, acceptance does not imply endorsement by Pagio, Inc. unless so stated. Material printed in Pulse is covered by copyright. No copyright is claimed to any work of the U.S. government. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form without written permission. For information on permissions, reprints and other services, contact Pagio, Inc. Also by Pagio Inc.: Worcester Medicine, Vitality Magazine, Thepulsemag.com, Thevitalitymag.com, & TasteWorcester.com
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IT IS TIME TO LAUGH AGAIN, WORCESTER JASON SAVIO
There is a lot to look forward to now that the pandemic is behind us, and a big part of that in Worcester is the city’s ever-growing comedy scene. The laughs in WooTown have been getting louder and louder in recent years, signaling a change from what it once was. Not long ago there wasn’t much of a comedy scene in the area, as many of today’s standup comedians will attest to, but times have changed.
There was, however, a slow movement beginning that Baxter saw firsthand at the open mics he was hosting, a shift that would give the underdog Worcester comedy scene a new life. A fresh crop of talent was emerging, many of whom would split their time between Boston and the growing scene in Worcester instead of committing all of their energy exclusively to the big city.
Here’s a look at where the Worcester comedy scene has been, where it is, and where it can go from here.
“Back in ’05 there was nothing going in Worcester at all, I mean not even a comedy club,” Baxter says about when he first started doing standup. “So it was cool, for me at least, to be a part of it when that scene started developing.”
BIG BROTHER
Standup comedians have options to showcase their talent in Worcester nowadays. Two of the biggest clubs in the area, the WooHaHa Comedy Club and the Comedy Attic upstairs at Park Grill & Spirits, both run by John Tobin, provide opportunity for young comedians, as well as a space for established performers.
NEW CLUBS AND NEW TALENT
The comedy scene in Worcester today is a far cry from what it was ten or fifteen years ago. Much of that has to do with one very busy and hands-on comedian.
But that wasn’t always the case. For a long period of time, comics had little choice but to travel to Boston to get work in. “Boston had such a head start on Worcester just based on its history of the clubs there and the people, the quote-unquote players who came out of Boston,” Tobin says, referencing Lenny Clark, Bill Burr and a host of others. Even Worcester’s own Dennis Leary, likely the biggest comedic name to come out of the city to date, cut his teeth in the Boston scene, performing in clubs like Play It Again Sam’s. Yet, there was always a rumbling in Worcester, albeit hard to hear sometimes in the deafening boom coming from nearby Beantown. A spat of places like Frank Foley’s Comedy Safari and a room at the old Aku-Aku Chinese restaurant gave local comics a chance to hone their craft. More recently, Worcester’s Orlando Baxter, who now performs around the world and has appeared on Conan O’Brien’s show and B.E.T., spent much of his time in Boston until he started to host open mic shows at Three G’s Sports Bar and Frank Foley’s Comedy Safari. He got his start in comedy in 2005 and has seen a lot of growth in Worcester since. “When I started, Worcester had no (comedy) scene, so I kinda had started a scene,” he says. There was a stretch around 2010 that Baxter recalls when all there was available was the open mic at Three Gs and then Frank Foley’s Comedy Safari. “Those were the only rooms that were going on and that’s when guys like Josh Ramirez, Shaun Connolly, and Nick Chambers came around. Still, you had to go to Boston to get a lot of work,” Baxter says. 6 JU LY 2 0 21
You can’t have comedy in Worcester these days without Shaun Connolly. The spry Connolly, who hit his stride in 2010, has become a godfather of sorts in Worcester’s comedy scene in recent years, co-producing the annual WOOtenanny festival alongside Bryan O’Donnell, hosting The Sort of Late Show at Nick’s Bar, hosting Hot Dog! A Comedy Sideshow at George’s Coney Island, and getting involved in other projects like podcasting and recording his standup album. He has that Vito Corleone aura in that when you speak to him he talks highly of other comedians in town as if they’re family, and many other comedians mention him with similar respect and gratitude. “Worcester is still growing, they’re still figuring it out,” he says. “But with John Tobin opening up the WooHaHa and bringing in legitimate touring headliners and taking over (the Comedy Attic) and letting more of the regional headliners and other comics get time in front of real crowds has definitely helped. Plus, I think what Bryan O’Donnell and I are doing with WOOtenanny, bringing a festival to the city and having comics from all
over the country come in, is definitely making it feel more like a comedy town.” John Tobin produces and operates numerous comedy clubs in Boston, including Nick’s Comedy Stop and Laugh Boston, and has been in the business since the mid ‘90s. He opened the WooHaHa Comedy Club about three years ago and also runs the Comedy Attic upstairs at Park Grill & Spirits. “We were looking around for a club (to open in Worcester) for the longest time and I love the city of Worcester,” says Tobin, who once ran the AkuAku’s comedy program. “I like the vibe of the city.”
opportunity to become way more conversational as far as my comedy style,” he says. “I’m very grateful for the experience. Instead of having to rely on Boston, I had my own thing going on and that really helped me develop.” Baxter started his comedy career in the lean year of 2005, juggling both school teaching during the day and performing for an audience at night. “Sometimes I would drive from Worcester to go do a five minute spot in New York, drive back home and get up at six o’clock and go to work,” he says. “It paid off. This is all I do now.”
Tobin says the idea of opening a new club in town gained traction when then-Lieutenant Governor of Massachusetts Tim Murray, a friend of Tobin’s, had a request for him. “Timmy came to Laugh Boston one night and said ‘I’d love to have some version of this in Worcester,’” Tobin says. Since then, Tobin has helped get the spotlight on some of Worcester’s finest young comedians. “The comics (in Worcester) kind of create a scene if there’s not one, and it sprouted up a group of young talent, Jimmy Cash being a prime example,” says Tobin. “He’s a fantastic young comedian. We’re putting him on all kinds of shows and people are raving about him.” Jimmy Cash, who is a janitor at a Worcester public school when he’s not on stage, has caught fire as of late, taking advantage of his day job to help propel his standup career. He regularly posts TikTok videos highlighting the funny nuances of his job, and has also began “Janitors in the Wild,” a video series where he interviews other janitors. “I have kind of a niche area where I do a lot of janitor stuff because I’ve been a janitor for almost 17 years, so I consider myself an expert in the janitorial field. I have a lot to offer in that realm,” he says with a laugh, noting that TikTok is a “creative outlet for me to have fun and do something silly.” It is funny, no pun intended, to hear the upstart Cash talk about his start in the Worcester comedy scene, having begun at the tail end of its relative dry spell. He wasn’t immune to it, but he didn’t have to deal with it as long as others like Baxter. “It was tough when I started here. Apparently there was a lull in Worcester comedy,” says Cash. “There had been stuff going on before I started, but I happened to start when there wasn’t much going on here at the time, so I started mostly going to open mics in Boston, and while I was doing that some shows and open mics started popping up in Worcester again. Which was exciting for me because I didn’t have to go to Boston every night.” Cash makes sure to credit those who have helped him gain momentum, including comedian Eric Taylor and Shaun Connolly. “I could go on and on about who was there to help me, but those were the ones that pop into mind,” he says. “And of course you can’t mention Worcester without Orlando Baxter.”
ORLANDO BAXTER AND WHAT TO LOOK FORWARD TO
Arguably the most popular comedian out of Worcester today is Orlando Baxter. After having hosted open mics in Worcester, the former Claremont Academy and South High Community School teacher is now finding himself performing his standup routine around the world and on national television. “Worcester helped me develop a lot because when I was going out to do shows in Boston and other places, I wasn’t hosting a lot, so when I started these open mics (in Worcester) I was hosting a lot, and that gave me the
Baxter is a good example of what the Worcester comedy scene can create: hardworking, blue-collar comedians that can deliver simple, yet relatable, stories with a twist of humor. His experience teaching for 12 years provides a bastion of material, and he also makes sure to give it back to other educators, performing private shows for school teachers. “It’s my teacher appreciation show that I kind of do for schools,” he says. “They love it. I just did a big school fundraiser for South High a couple of months ago, so I still keep in touch when I’m in the city. I taught for a long time so I have a big soft spot for educators.” While Orlando continues his upwards climb, Connolly and Cash are as well. Connolly is preparing another edition of WOOtenanny in October this year as a 24-hour telethon streaming on Twitch with “a hybrid of live shows and strange content.” Cash says to keep an eye out online for more video content he’ll be producing. He’s also scheduled to perform at the WooHaHa in September and is joining the Boston Comedy Blowout show at the Melody Tent on Cape Cod in August. And of course both WooHaHa and the Comedy Attic have shows scheduled mostly every weekend, the latter recently bringing in Bobcat Goldthwait. The Worcester comedy scene is clearly in the middle of a surge, giving audiences their choice of seeing local performers and nationally known names without having to travel to Boston. “A lot of things are coming up,” says Connolly. “It’s going to be very exciting and proof that the city is growing even more.” For more, visit: https://thewoohaha.com/ https://www.comedyattic.com/ https://wootenanny.com/ https://www.facebook.com/jimmycashrules https://orlandobaxter.com/
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ENTERTAINMENT, ARTS & CULTURE
Our “Lazy Mary” can be made into a “Beast Mode Bloody” which includes a peppered local bacon strip, shrimp cocktail, dry hopped pickles and smoked sea salt.
Cara and Michael of Free Living Farm
Some menu items featuring local meat from Stillman's and a local salad from Free Living Farm
TIMBERYARD BREWING COMPANY, CRAFTING BEER WITH A CREATIVE TWIST VICTORIAHOPE MCAULIFFE
If you are looking to sit down and enjoy a beer in a mundane and quiet atmosphere, then the Timberyard Brewing Company is not for you. This newcomer to the craft-beer scene, located in East Brookfield has found a way to seamlessly incorporate music and a relaxed outdoors vibe with its farmers market featuring local musicians, and vendors. The incorporation of the farmer’s market fell into the mission and goal of Timberyard Brewing Company with ease following its conception, according to Taproom Manager and coordinator of “The Market” Kate Ohanesian, “Supporting local agriculture is definitely something I am passionate about, but it’s also part of our mission to use local ingredients in our kitchen whenever possible; hosting a Farmers Market just made sense. The idea of being able to shop for food grown by your neighbors while drinking a beer brewed on-site and listening to local musicians is exactly the vibe, we were going for…we knew we wanted to have some great live music and host events that would harvest a sense of community, so things like the Farmers Market happened really organically by just making connections with neighboring farms and local crafters.” Kate Ohanesian and her husband Marcus Ohanesian, the Marketing Manager for Timberyard Brewing Company both confirmed they wanted to create a “laid back and groovy vibe” for customers who visit their establishment and pairing the Farmer’s Market along with live music events was a perfect way to do that, while strengthening community connections. Traditionally, a brewery isn’t a place you’d envision families spending a relaxing Saturday or Sunday afternoon, however with the incorporation of The Market as a separate entity in a barn on their property. “While the Farmers Market is a part of the brewery, we wanted it to kind of take on a life of its own. This year we added live music, picnic tables and a mobile beer trailer with the hopes that guests would feel encouraged to stay awhile,” Kate Ohanesian said. As she anticipated, the combination of live music with the Market has enticed people to get comfortable and settle in at Timberyard Brewing Company, “I think now that our guests are learning that we have live music at our Market, they are coming to visit to stay for the day as opposed to just dropping by, which is exactly what we were hoping for.” Marcus oversees recruitment of musicians for the Market and evenings within the Taproom, and his hope is to maintain a specific, “groovy, funky, and mellow indie vibe” that is welcoming to guests. He and Kate have worked together to ensure the music booked for each event matches its mood, “The process is the same, but The Market tends to have more of a focus on solo or duo artists with a more acoustic sound, where we welcome full bands in the taproom at night. We schedule music to create a vibe, so Saturday night music may look different than Sunday brunch and that’s intentional.” Creativity abounds at Timberyard, from the music down to the drink offerings. While their Taproom does not offer hard liquor or wine options, they have created cocktails based off their most popular beers that introduce the universe of craft beer to wary guests, “Our Beer Cocktails are some of our most popular menu items. We have a Beer-
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mosa, a Lazy Mary (housemade Bloody Mary mix with our Lazy Lightning IPA) and a Lagerita that serve as a good alternative for non-beer drinkers and hopefully give them an introduction to trying new things. Many guests come in saying they do not like beer because they do not like Hazy IPAs, and there’s so much more to beer than that. Sometimes the same person who comes in saying they don’t drink beer ends up leaving with a 4-pack of a sour or a stout. There is a beer out there for everyone, and we love to play matchmaker,” shared Kate. Both Marcus and Kate said one of the joys of working at Timberyard is the ability to connect with the community and work within a collaborative and inclusive environment. Kate shared, “I love that I can show my staff you don’t have to be a head brewer to have a big idea, everyone can take a seat at the table.” The collaboration and inclusivity come from the bonds forged through family and friendship, which brought Timberyard Brewing Company from an idea to reality. Though some might shudder at the thought of working with their close friends or family, Kate and Marcus have a different view, “It is no secret that it can be difficult working with family and friends, but as long as you maintain good communication; it can be powerful. Because we are so deeply rooted in each other’s history, we can play to each other’s strengths and help each other grow as a team and a business. What brought us together as friends helps us create an environment that we want to work in…This camaraderie gives off less of a “buy our product” message and more of a “welcome to our dream” vibe that we hope to encompass in our Taproom.” To learn more about Timberyard Brewing Company and how to purchase their beers, you can visit them online at Timberyardbrewing.com or on Facebook @timberyardbrewing. Some of Timberyard Brewing beer cans featuring artwork from a variety of artists
DANNY FANTOM SETS EXAMPLE FOR EMERGING ARTISTS AND WORCESTER CITIZENS VICTORIAHOPE MCAAULIFFE If you are looking for a stereotypical rap and hip hop experience, Danny Fantom’s music is not for you. His lyrics are authentic and powerful, and as a Worcester native he is dedicated to using his budding success to uplift those within his community. When he isn’t dropping killer beats and lyrics, you can find him either; in his kitchen experimenting with tres leches recipes, spending time with his wife and son, or advocating for his community. Since releasing his first album “Going Ghost” in 2012, Danny Fantom has risen to gain accolades from local magazines and performed at a variety of music festivals such as Mass Affect, the Worcester Music Awards, and others. He frequently performs wearing clothing from his own line, Packman Ghost and has also been styled by clothes designed by Haus of Maccadu created by Vance “Macc Mulsane” Wentworth. Danny Fantom has released two other records since his debut album, most recently “Pandora’s Box” in October of 2019, and is set to release another album titled “Fantom Menace this year. His ability to collaborate with other artists, and work within the community to create authentic experiences for his fans at local venues. As part of his mission to support the community Danny Fantom has taken it upon himself to use his voice to uplift the Canal District and Water Street community and highlight the struggles that have developed since the construction and opening of Polar Park. Recently he made a public plea with friends and fans to support small businesses surrounding Polar Park, “A less prevalent conversation regarding the WooSox and Polar Park is how it is affecting LOCAL BUSINESSES! Yeah it’s cool to say support local, or help the little guys, but what actually matters is the fact that the parking situation when the game is in town is suffocating the ability for some of these businesses to survive…People that patronize, employees, and owners at any business in/ around the stadium are forced to pay event parking, if available, and/or circle the block long enough to find a meter to park at.” Danny Fantom also had the privilege of throwing out the first pitch at June 12, 2021 and the joy he felt in that moment radiated through a bright smile that was glued to his face. As he anticipates the birth of his second child this year, Danny Fantom maintains focus on being the best Father he can to his children. “How do I prepare my son for manhood? Teach him to choose his battles and maintain his peace by learning restraint, patience, and how to love and how to find happiness,” he shared upon reflection of his son’s last day of third grade. An artist with three successful albums and another set to be released, his own clothing line, a beautiful family, and a city that adores him so much that he’s referred to as “Mayor Fantom”, Danny Fantom is beloved by all. As his career continues to blossom, the possibilities for this skilled and poetic lyricist are endless. If you would like to learn more about Danny Fantom you can follow him on Instagram @senorwepa or online at dannyfantom.bandcamp.com.
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NOW STREAMING: JASON SAVIO
MAMMOTH WVH
“I’m so nervous/Don’t know my place/A life without you/I’m not ready to move on,” Wolfgang Van Halen sings on “Distance,” a song dedicated to his late father Eddie Van Halen. “Distance” is a bonus track on Wolfgang’s self-titled debut EP under the moniker Mammoth WVH. After touring with his father in Van Halen as the band’s bass player during the group’s reunion, the 30-year-old Van Halen is stepping out on his own with a very honest and heartfelt effort. It’s an impressive start, most notably how he writes, sings and plays every instrument himself. He is the son of Eddie Van Halen, after all. Going into Mammoth WVH, you really need to throw away any expectations of it sounding like a Van Halen record, because it’s not. Sure, Van Halen is in the name, but this is a whole different beast and is quite unfair to compare what Wolfgang is doing with what his father did during his legendary career. With that said, it is near impossible to not hear flourishes of Eddie’s showmanship here and there in Wolfgang’s playing, not just on the guitar but on every instrument. There are flashes of guitar fireworks in “You’re To Blame” and the opening “Mr. Ed,” but they’re just that—flashes. Wolfgang isn’t trying to be his father and that’s a good thing. He’s doing his own thing. It doesn’t come as much of a surprise that Wolfgang is a talented musician, playing drums, bass and piano (in addition to guitar) at a top level. Each song is tight with a late ‘90s/early 2000s alternative hard rock feel. What does come as a surprise, though, is his singing. When he toured with Van Halen, Wolfgang did backup vocals, but here he is front and center, displaying pipes that no one knew he had. His passionate delivery fits perfectly with his anxiety-filled lyrics about navigating loss and rocky relationships. “One by one/Remembering a brighter sun/All you love will fall away,” he sings in the radio-hit-waiting to happen “Think It Over.” In the heavy “Stone,” he adds, “It’s all been turned to stone/You’ll end up here alone/ In the end.” Dark and foreboding? Yes, but it doesn’t come off as cheap or an act. Wolfgang has obviously been through some stuff--might even be mad at a person or two--and does a solid job of shaping it into honest music. On the flip side of that, by the record’s end you kind of get the feeling that you listened to the same song over and over again—each one hitting that similar note of emotion. There is certainly more positive than negative to get from Wolfgang’s debut. If there is any major drawback, it’s that Eddie isn’t here to see the album come to fruition. He likely got to hear some of it before he passed, but it sure would have been nice for him to have the chance to hold the finished product in his hands like everyone else. Although Eddie might be gone, Wolfgang has shown that he is more than capable of carrying the Van Halen torch. What’s more heartening is that Wolfgang is aware of what he’s stepping into and how he got to where he is, as evident in the album’s liner notes where he writes, “This one’s for you, pop.” For more, visit: Mammothwvh.com.
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Compass Tavern 508-304-6044 90 Harding St., Worcester
THE BACKYARD at FIREFLY’S BBQ July 2 Billy & the Jets July 3 Tim Leavitt July 4 Sarah & the Joys July 9 Greg Schuler July 10 Jae Mannion July 11 Chris Wagner July 16 Jared Hanrahan July 17 Shady Armadillo July 18 Tim Leavitt July 23 Ricky Fleet & John Scarpato July 24 High Harmony July 25 Jae Mannion July 30 Blue Eyed Soul Duo July 31 Bill McGoldrick
Chashu Ramen + Izakaya 508-304-7183 38 Franklin St., Worcester
Flying Rhino 508-757-1450 278 Shrewsbury St., Worcester
Firefly’s BBQ 508-357-8883 350 E. Main St., Marlborough DANTE’S at FIREFLY’S BBQ July 2 Jeff Allen Shaw & Co. July 3 American Who July 9 Nasty Habits July 10 Bone City July 16 PowerPlay July 17 LoVeSeXy July 23 Usual Suspects July 24 Playing Dead July 30 Petty Larceny July 31 Whiskey Church
Greater Good Imperial Brewing 508-926-8736 55 Millbrook St., Worcester
ENTERTAINMENT LISTINGS Black and White Grille 508-885-5018 Blackandwhitegrille.com 206 North Spencer Rd., Spencer Blueprint New American Bar & Grille 978-668-5580 10 Village Sq. Westminster Boynton Restaurant & Spirits 508-756-8458 117 Highland St., Worcester Cafe Neo 774-253-6139 97 Millbury St. Worcester Karaoke. Classic’s Pub 978-227-5258 285 Central St., Leominster
Greendale’s Pub 508-853-1350 404 W Boylston St. North, Worcester
Purgatory Beer Co. 508-596-2194 670 Linwood Ave. Building C, Whitinsville Ralph’s Diner Ralphsrockdiner.com 148 Grove St., Worcester Rascal’s Rascalsworcester.com 70 James St., Worcester Reunion Tap & Table 774-293-5501 198 Worcester St., North Grafton River Styx 978-696-5176 166 Boulder Dr., Fitchburg Live on the Patio Rock Bar 774-243-7000 81 Water St., Worcester
Grill on the Hill 508-854-1704 1929 Skyline Drive, Worcester
The Comedy Attic Upstairs at Park Grill 508-756-7995 257 Park Ave.
Halligan’s 508-832-6739 889 Southbridge St., Auburn Thursday Bike Nights
The Mill at 185 Themill185.com 774-261-8585 185 W Boylston St., West Boylston
Indian Ranch 508-943-3871 Indianranch.com 200 Gore Rd., Webster
Vincent’s Worcester 508-752-9439 49 Suffolk St.
MB Lounge 508-799-4521 40 Grafton St., Worcester Wednesday - Karaoke Thursday - Drinks with Alana Friday - Dance Party starting at 10 Saturday - Dance Party starts at 10 Sunday - Drinks with Matty Closed Monday and Tuesday MCL Club 508-797-0141 Worcestermcl.org 181 Lake Ave., Worcester Nola Cajun Kitchen 774-261-8008 340 W. Boylston St., West Boylston One Eyed Jack’s Tiki Bar & Grill 508-459-0089 433 Park Ave., Worcester Partner’s Pub 978-345-5051 970 South St., Fitchburg Peppercorn’s Grille & Tavern
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508-752-7711 455 Park Ave., Worcester
Wachusett Brew Yard 978-874-9965 175 State Rd. E, Westminster Whiskey on Water 774-578-8829 97 Water St. White Eagle 508-753-9612 Whiteeagleworcester.com 116-120 Green St., Worcester WooHaha Thewoohaha.com 50 Franklin St. Worcester Beer Garden 774-530-9000 64 Franklin St., Worcester
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DINING DINING REVIEW REVIEW
BRADY’S
37 MECHANIC STREET, LEOMINSTER (978) 537-7111 BERNIE WHITMORE
If we’ve learned anything about dining in Central Massachusetts it is this: if Bill Brady’s involved, it’s going to be extraordinary. He was the concept-man/chef at the outstanding Sonoma restaurants of Princeton and the Beechwood Hotel in Worcester. It never fails, when I dine at Bill Brady’s restaurants I taste something new; learn something new; and leave with a great dining experience. Now he’s come home, literally, to his native Leominster and put his name on a restaurant project of his own. When we finally made the trip to Leominster for dinner at Brady’s we found Bill and his wife, Kim, relieved to have the volatility of pandemic disruptions behind them and ready to serve dinner from an exciting menu. We began our exploration of that menu with oysters on the half shell. Four oysters, each nestled on a bed of rock-salt, were elegantly lined up, single file, on a long rectangular serving dish and separated by half-slices of lemon. I approached my first oyster with analytical curiosity and encountered a mixture of creamy sauce topped with a tracing of cheese slightly browned under the broiler. Beneath that, finely chopped greens and small chunks of tasso ham lent smokysalt tones that, assuredly, did not overwhelm the flavor of tender oyster meat, still clinging to the shell. Dropping the scientific approach, I let myself appreciate my second oyster in total; the subtle union of flavors was trademark Bill Brady. As I had scanned through the menu, it occurred to 14 J U LY 20 21
me that I would have been happy with any of the entrees; the breast of duck served with rhubarb compote stood out. However, it was the Crab Boil of soft-shell crabs that really grabbed my attention. It’s so rare to find soft-shell crabs on a menu in Massachusetts where king lobster dominates. Brady’s chef lightly breaded and deep-fried two large soft-shell crabs and served them over a tomato-based broth studded with chunks of red bliss potato and kernels of roasted corn. The crabs were surrounded with steamed-open cherrystone clams that contributed their flavorful juices. The menu listed andouille sausage but tonight’s crab boil was flavored with large chunks of tasso ham – an ideal replacement that contributed smoky spice to the peppery broth. But the crabs! Their thick bodies and claws yielded ample chunks of tender meat that was snowwhite and shredded apart, moist with that classic crab flavor. Their thin shells crackled beneath the golden-brown breading. I don’t say this to get some shellfish feud going, but whenever I have soft-shell, I wonder why people go through all the labor of cracking king crab legs. True to tradition, I matched my entrée with a glass of beer, in this case Moonhill Brewing Company’s tribute: Brady’s Brew, a clear IPA that could make converts out of all those bitter-averse lager drinkers. My friend’s entree, Boneless Korean Short Ribs, came served over a mound of purple sticky rice and kimchi. The portion of eight slices of rib meat (yeah, I counted) was thickly drizzled with miso aioli. The meat was tender and darkened with Korean spices, each fatty-moist and packed with
meaty flavor. In his opinion, the dish called for just a bit more of that flavor-contrasting kimchi. We ended our meal by sharing a portion of flourless chocolate cake that was classically served warm and gooey and garnished with artful swirls of chocolate sauce and a small sphere of vanilla ice cream. In this case, dessert seemed fitting; it unified all these deliciously diverse flavors. Pandemic epilogue: after a year of home cooking in semi-isolation punctuated by sometimes-mangled takeout experiences, I’ve wondered if the dining culture that took so long to nurture in Worcester could be resurrected. An evening at Brady’s helped to answer that question with warm hospitality, robust flavors and impressive presentation. It felt like a welcome return to normal. True, there’s wide-spread concern over reassembling kitchen staffs who were sent home a year ago and now find themselves wielding a bit more power in the labor market. I trust that these issues will establish new balancing points. In the meantime, though, these labor concerns have reminded me of when I started out in the backroom of restaurant kitchens scrubbing pots and operating dishwashers. The restaurant caste system was acutely real to me, especially when I’d open my pay and see how little my sixty-hour workweek was worth. We should never forget to appreciate the entire team responsible for our dining experience.
HOT & NOW What’s hot and happening now in the restaurant scene PAUL GIORGIO
RESTAURANT WEEK RETURNS. Watch for the return of Worcester Restaurant Week, the first two weeks of August. Produced by Pulse magazine the annual event will feature special menus from about 40 local eateries. For $25.21 you will get a three-course meal at participating area restaurants. Visit Worcester Restaurant week on Facebook. THE SUNFLOWER SHINES IN GRAFTON. A new beer garden/restaurant has opened at Houlden Farms in Grafton. The converted shipping container offers six beers on tap and a menu with several flatbread pizzas on it, which vary from time to time. The Boston Flatbread Company, soon to open in Worcester, makes the pizza. FRANKLIN STREET TO GET NEW RESTAURANT. It looks like Worcester’s Franklin Street will be getting a new restaurant at 389 Franklin St., which once housed a Syrian social club. The eatery will be near the intersection of Suffolk Street. No word on the concept. IT’S NO BLARNEY. Worcester’s Blarney Stone, a long-time fixture, is set to become a restaurant. -The Mint will be owned by Trang Le & Van Le. No details on the menu yet. LET’S PLAY CHICKEN. Pollo Campero, a fast-food chicken restaurant started in Guatemala, with international headquarters in Texas, is looking at Worcester for franchise expansion, the company recently announced. IT’S FINALLY HAPPENING… Worcester is getting a much-anticipated rooftop bar/restaurant and high-end steak house right in our Downtown, which is fast becoming a destination. An indoor/outdoor bar and eatery is
set to open later this summer under the direction of The Broadway Hospitality Group — the same entity responsible for Tavern in the Square. The Mercantile Roof Top Bar & Restaurant will feature a rooftop deck and will boast 500-seats in a dining area adjacent to Mercantile Center. IT’S BACK ON TRACK. In addition to The Mercantile Roof Top Bar & Restaurant, Ruth’s Chris Steak House will also open in the fall of 2022. The upscale dining restaurant will feature 275 seats. GO FISH. Atlantic Poke recently opened its second location in Marlboro across from Apex Center. They currently have a place near the Whole Foods in Shrewsbury. Michael Tomaiolo of Shrewsbury is the owner. The sound of music. We hear that Grill on the Hill at Worcester’s Green Hill Golf Course is doing music on their deck, Thursday, Friday & Saturdays. They have great views of the city. IT’S NOT JUST RIBS. The best wings in the state can be found in Sturbridge, according to Esquire Magazine, which recently picked the best chicken wing spots in each state. B.T. Smokehouse in Sturbridge picked up the horns for the bay state as the best spot to order wings in the Bay State. “B.T.’s serves tons of creative smoky grub. Case in point: these Insta-worthy wings, inspired by those citrusy Orange Julius slushies,” the magazine wrote. WANT A DINER? Blanchard’s 101 Diner, at 322 Cambridge St.in Worcester is for sale. In August 2019 they were named the best diner in Worcester by Hoodline. The price is $400,000, according to Loopnet. The price includes a catering division that has three trucks.
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PULSEBREW RYAN CASHMAN I want to take some time this month to talk about my favorite spirit: gin. To some, gin may be nothing more than bad vodka infused too heavily with juniper berries, leaving nothing behind but the taste of pine pitch. I understand this criticism. I just believe it’s completely wrong. Yes, bottom shelf, Poland Spring Gin that comes in a dust covered plastic bottle and is specifically designed to be hidden behind massive quantities of mixers is terrible. However, one bad gin does not speak for all gin. And, if you’re a budding gin aficionado like myself, the bottom shelf is not somewhere you’ll be looking. No, you’ll be looking at the middle to top shelf, where Gordons, Beefeater, Tanqueray and Bombay Sapphire live. These are all large, very well-respected brands. But here at PulseBrew, we’re aiming for something a little more local. So, here are two excellent Massachusetts gins distilled in two of the state’s summer playgrounds: Cape Cod and the Berkshires.
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We’ll start down the Cape, in the town of Truro. South Hollow Distillery is an extension of Truro Vineyards and is the first distillery on Cape Cod since Prohibition. South Hollow is dedicated to making the finest, small batch spirits that burst with flavor and are surprisingly affordable. They started with Rum, but have continued on to what I believe is their superior product: Dry Line Cape Cod Gin. Dry Line is distilled with local botanicals, making it a truly Cape Cod drink. It’s a blend of Eastern Red Cedar juniper berries, organic angelica root, and sugar cane. The result is a gin that is smooth and slightly peppery. It’s not offensive in any way. Each botanical sings its own song. Dry Line has been distilled to near perfection and is affordable at under $40 for a 750ml bottle. Now, we head out west to the village of Sheffield, home to Berkshire Mountain Distillers, Inc. and their masterful Greylock Gin. In 2012, the New York Times named Greylock Gin the #1 Craft Gin in the entire country. High praise for a small, Massachusetts distillery. And it is not misplaced praise either. Greylock is absolutely bursting with flavors that are correctly tuned to hit your taste buds at timed intervals. First, you taste the juniper and some of the floral notes. As it sits on your tongue you begin to feel the pull of the citrus and licorice that turns the gin sweet as it makes its way down your throat. It’s one of the few spirits that chills rather than warms. Which is what makes it perfect for sipping on a hot summer’s eve. And at $30, Greylock Gin is perfectly priced too. Both of these distilleries have other, outstanding products that I encourage all of you to try, but for me the true stars are the gins. Peppery, piney, citrusy and floral. Nothing beats a cold gin and tonic in the summertime. Thanks for putting up with my ginny tangent. Back to beer next month!
NEW IN THE WOO: ALL SYSTEMS GO RACHEL SHUSTERAA Located at 225 Shrewsbury St. in Worcester, All Systems Go (ASG) is the spot to go to live out your gaming dreams. “ASG is a free roam space that offers Nintendo Switch group areas, PC gaming, fully immersive racing simulators and a high-end lighting and sound system,” says Chief Marketing Officer and co-founder, Amber Beck. ASG opened on May 27, and it’s been a great experience ever since. While Beck and her partner Devin LaPlume, Chief Executive Officer and co-founder, don’t have any professional background when it comes to owning a restaurant, bar or entertainment business, they knew it’s what they wanted. “We travelled and we educated ourselves,” Beck adds. Beck and LaPlume are originally from Providence, RI which is where they spent most of their weekends. “We were craving an experience to drink great cocktails while competing against each other in Call of Duty or Mario Kart,” she said. “We traveled to places like France and LA to experience gaming bars, but we felt as though the environment still wasn’t what we were craving. We wanted a modern, clean feel versus the nostalgic, gamey feel you get at most of these places. It was then that we decided that we would create what we were looking for.” The space is 6,200 sq. ft. with a 20 X 8 ft LED wall. “Our capabilities are vast in hosting any event,” Beck says.
bar. Serving sub-par food and drinks is NOT an option here.” Supporting local businesses is important to Beck and her team. ASG sources espresso beans locally for their specialty espresso bar. “My personal favorite part of the espresso bar is our espresso martini,” she says. “We pull fresh shots of espresso per order – they are just delicious.” ASG also plans to host special events for the community! “Our first event will be on July 3rd as a Fourth of July event,” Beck says. “Gaming tournaments are also on our radar.” For Beck and her team, it’s important that the Worcester and surrounding communities feel the passion and love for gaming and good food and drink that they do. It’s a very special place for them, and they hope others feel it too. “There is no other space like us in Worcester,” Beck says. “We are an interactive entertainment space with great amenities, bringing something really special and fun to the community.”
As for pricing, Nintendo switch group areas are $15/hour, PC gaming is $7/hour or $5/hour if 5+ hours are purchased. Racing simulators are $10-15 mins and $20- 30 mins. ASG also offers great food and drink options at great prices! “Our food and drink are [at] competitive pricing,” Beck says. “Our kitchen serves craft, brick-oven pizza, boneless wings and dough bites. Our brick oven pizza ranges between $9-$15. We also offer espresso drinks and cocktails. Our bar includes 16 tap handles with local beer. We purposefully sourced the best ingredients for our food and our espresso t h epu ls emag.com
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LIFESTYLE LIFESTYLE
DEREK GRIMM SERVES UP VERY GOOD BEVERAGES WITH LOCAL COCKTAIL POP-UPS JENNIFER RUSSO Bartender and mixologist Derek Grimm is no stranger to the Worcester bar-going population. For many years he has been serving up inventive and delicious cocktails at some of the area’s favorite establishments, including The Pint, Deadhorse Hill, and Glory Bar (where he met his wife, the former owner). He is everything a great bartender should be – knowledgeable, friendly, and willing to experiment and take the world of cocktails forward. “This is really the only job I’ve ever had where I can balance work life and be able to be happy at work, connecting with people and really loving what I’m doing. I just love bartending – it’s been a great couple of decades.” His latest venture, Very Good Beverages, was created out of a shift in career path due to COVID, and how that hit everyone so hard in the restaurant industry – not being able to get some of the same spirits and components that they would normally be able to get due to lack of staff or businesses being able to run at normal capacity. He decided to start making his own bitters, syrups and infusions, using them to revive the ability to bring those handcrafted drinks to the masses. His summer bitter is a lighter, more citrus forward bitter reminiscent of an Italian amaro, but with lighter hints of the warm spices for a brighter profile. Very Good Beverages has been offering cocktail pop up events at The Pint, boasting a curated drink menu, where he uses these elements that are created specifically with the drink in mind, rather than an all-purpose use. For example, a lime cordial using an infusion of fresh lime juice, lime peel, sugar, and citric acid, maintaining bright fresh lime flavors instead of using a pre-purchased, super-processed bottled lime juice that doesn’t taste nearly as good.
“Sometimes I don’t know what I am going to do, I will just play around and see what works. I’ll start with a base idea for a cocktail and determine what the drink needs to fill in all the flavor gaps to make it a well-balanced drink. Maybe it needs to be stirred or shaken, maybe it needs something sweet or sour, or something more bitter or savory to get it right. For some I try to maintain the ideology of the classic cocktail but put a spin on it to make it a little different and more interesting,” says Derek. As far as trends go, Derek believes everything is incidental and can be used where it makes sense to, without going overboard. “If smoking a drink makes sense and lends flavor to the drink in a meaningful way – great. If using a top-shelf brand of vodka is better for one drink and cheaper brand is better for another – ok. If things are being done just for the sake of it, why bother? Let the drink speak for itself,” Derek shares. So, what can you expect at the Very Good Beverage cocktail pop-up? They have been very well-received so far, with great service and cocktails and a very laid-back atmosphere, with some low-key jazzy hip hop and a comfortable environment. Other than the base spirits used, Derek crafts all other elements of the drinks, so you are really in for a unique experience. A curated menu of four drinks, always priced at $12, is released 24-48 hours prior to the event on Instagram, so be sure to follow to get the latest menus. You can expect a pop-up every four-to-six months right now. “It’s not meant to be an event where you go and slam down six or seven drinks and then head out for the night, it’s meant to be a place where you come down and sit and that is your whole night. It’s a chance to escape from the day to day and have a really great time with friends,” says Derek.
“Combining this infusion with gin makes one of the most fabulous gimlets on the planet. And when you thoughtfully put together these drinks using the best ingredients and high end, artfully crafted spirits, it changes the face of them altogether,” Derek shares.
When he isn’t doing the cocktail pop-ups, Derek helps organize the Run the Woo competition for Worcester bartenders, which raises funds for charitable organizations that he is passionate about, such as Girls, Inc. He is also doing some mixology classes at the Tower Hill Botanical Garden in Boylston over the summer.
With his vast experience, Grimm is able to pull from a mental library of what flavors are going to pair well together in a drink, for example a scotch with stone fruits or honey, or gin with a rounder citrus flavor.
Be sure to follow @verygoodbev on Instagram to see when the next Very Good Beverages pop-up will be and what’s being worked on behind the scenes!
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420 50 8 IN THE
TRAVIS DUDA
In a recent survey LawnStarter ranked Worcester as one of the top 20 Best Cities to Get Stoned. They compared 94 U.S. cities (where recreational cannabis is currently legal) based on 12 key indicators of a smoking good time. Among them: The volume of Google searches for “marijuana” and “weed,” access to dispensaries and head shops, and availability of 420-friendly lodging and smoking lounges. With those metrics, it’s no surprise that our beloved city ranks high among the highest, but Worcester has a lot more to offer local stoners aside from great access to some quality bud. Here are some suggestions to help round out your next Worcester cannadventure. For starters, obviously visit one of our many dispensaries and grab yourself something tasty. From here, a lot of our visiting stoners like to begin by seeking out the infamous Burnside Fountain, and imbibing enough to where he’s able to talk to you and tell you just exactly what he’s doing to that turtle. Once the novelty wears off, feel free to wander the blocks around Downtown. There are a number of great restaurants, coffee shops, bars, and other dining experiences that offer a wide variety of culinary stylings throughout the heart of the Commonwealth. At one point, you could have watched a movie at the old Paris Cinema, however now it’s BYO porno and you have to hope the Beer Garden isn’t overcrowded with prudes. Thanks to the efforts of groups like POW! WOW! Worcester, there is a plethora of public art to explore and admire while here and high on the devil’s lettuce. If you’re already Downtown, a good place to start would be the side of the Hanover Theatre. There’s an awesomely trippy mural by the artist Insane 51 that has just been enhanced with the installation of a pair of 3-D glasses. The oversized spectacles allow viewers to see the effect of the artist’s intended work. If that’s not your style, no sweat! There are over 150 pieces of sanctioned public art dispersed throughout the entire city, with more unsanctioned creations being added nightly. So go find your next new favorite. It could be the optical illusion “Stop War” one or maybe you’re more of a fire breathing love dragon? You won’t know until you go explore. You sportier stoners should make your way over to Newton Hill and find a pretty decent 18-hole disc golf course. Totally free to play, as long as you have the discs. Or if you don’t play, it still makes for an interesting walk. I once encountered a homeless guy that was sleeping on a bench behind the 14th hole’s tee box. I asked him to play through, to which he replied “knock ya socks off.” It’s one of the many unique challenges that make Newton Hill a fun course to play. If playing one person catch isn’t your bag, consider one of the many basketball courts, handball courts, fields, splash pads and public pools available to locals, especially now that we’re on the brighter side of the pandemic. Maybe you’re looking to get back to nature? The city of Worcester might not be your first thought for nature activities, but have you been to Broad Meadow Brook? With five miles of trails, it’s one of the largest urban wildlife sanctuaries in the North East and when you’re there, it’s easy to forget that you’re in the second largest city in New England. You can also enjoy a shorter walk along the trail and boardwalk near the Blackstone Heritage Corridor Visitor Center. Or just go roam our streets and see what you see. My wife and I have taken many baked excursions trying to find our way down the streets we haven’t been to or searching for old ghost signs and interesting new places we haven’t been to yet. This list barely scratches the surface of all the reasons why Worcester is one of the greatest US cities to be stoned in. With Covid restrictions waning, more opportunities and experiences will abound. We have great spots for live music, professional sports, video game bars, a place where you can pay to hit a bunch of stuff with a bat and not to mention places like The Summit Lounge that allow public use in their private club. The real question is, how long until Worcester moves to it’s rightful position at the top of the list? t h epu ls emag.com
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OUT AND ABOUT MATT GONZALEZ, NEW BARTENDER AT WORCESTER’S MB LOUNGE TALKS CHALLENGE, CHANGE AND COMMUNITY.
GIULIANO D’OR AZIO Last month, I had the pleasure of sitting down with Matt Gonzalez. He happens to be a good friend of mine, is a total sweetheart and he recently added ‘bartender at the MB Lounge’ to his resume. I wanted to interview Matt as a sort of follow up to my February 2020 column, where I interviewed club owner Marco Guinnette and then-new manager Keith Bellerose. We had discussed some of the struggles surrounding the bar’s reputation with Worcester’s present day queer community - specifically amongst trans, gender noncomforming and queer folks of color. We talked as well about their decision to shift management and present a new vision of inclusivity, or as Keith put it “be more welcoming, making sure everyone feels like they’re welcome here”. There were some plans for programming new events, and hiring some new faces behind the bar, but the pandemic put the work on pause, as it did for so many in nightlife and entertainment.
Presented by
40 Grafton St Exit 14 off 290 TheMBLounge.com
Fast forward a year and two months later to Memorial Day 2021, and as soon as bars in Mass were given the green light to open without regulations, the MB presented a new slate of bartenders which included Matt alongside Alana and Mike. After a few weeks of operating “post-regulations”, Matt agreed to chat with me about the past, present and future of his new workplace, or as he might put it, his laboratory. “I feel like a mad scientist when I’m behind the bar” he told me “I’ll put on my chemist goggles and get to work!” I asked Matt, whose social location includes being a queer man of color, what he saw as the main contributing challenges to the lack of resolution around the bar’s reputation. “I think the main challenge has always been communication,” said Matt, adding “We [the community and community spaces] need to be able to talk about what issues we have, work through them, and come up with a resolution. With this new team of ours, we are all on the same page. We welcome feedback and if we are able to help or fix something, we will - all we need is communication”. We continued talking about the perception that some folks have about the bar, citing its lack of diversity in staffing as well as generally not being known as an inclusive space for all queer people. “I would ask, have they been around recently?” He said “I would want those individuals to experience the new MB and see the difference in service and environment”. He’s genuinely committed as he says “please reach out to me on any of my social media platforms if you don’t feel comfortable contacting the MB Lounge page. We will work on making it safe” adding “I’ll be there as long as I can to help spearhead that and continue to welcome everyone, no matter gender, race or orientation. We concluded our talk discussing Matt’s hopes and aspirations for what the MB Lounge could mean to Worcester’s queer community. “I’m excited to see new people, see more diversity for MB. I think going forward, showcasing the different identities that we have in this beautiful city, and bringing them together is what I want MB to be about. If you’re new to the area, I want MB to be that safe space for you to come down, grab a drink, and meet wonderful people”. Bio Giuliano D’Orazio (he/him) is a Worcester native, musician, music educator, member of the queer community, and a board member of Love Your Labels. Email: giulianodoraz@gmail.com Instagram: @musicbygiuliano
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STYLE Savvy HOW TO WEAR WHITE DENIM APRIL GODDARD Hello Pulse readers! Welcome to the absolute dead of summer where the temps are scorching, the AC is overworked and we have all been hanging out in whatever will keep us the coolest. We have had record-breaking heat this season and with that comes the desire to absolutely throw the idea of looking cute out the window, because let’s be honest; most of the time it is just too darn hot to care. But, there may come a day soon where you have an event, a dinner, a date, or some guests over for an outdoor BBQ and you need to know how to look trendy and stay cool at the same time. The trend of the summer happens to be white denim, whose fresh and clean color will have you looking sharp and feeling cool. There are so many ways to rock this particular trend, so read on to discover the various ways that you too can sport summer white denim. DENIM JEANS: This is the most classic way to sport white denim. Nothing says put together yet casual like a pair of ultra white denim. There are so many styles and cuts of denim jeans to choose from- you are sure to find some gorgeous white jeans to wear on your next night out. Skinny full length denim can be easily dressed up. Mom jean denim is great for those of us who want a more relaxed style. Distressed white denim adds some visual interest and pazazz to your outfit. And cropped denim looks great for an evening around the beach. DENIM SKIRT: A midi length denim skirt is amazing for a more special occasion; a graduation celebration, birthday, or another celebration when you might want to look a little more dressed up. This is something that you can pair with really pretty sandals or heels depending on how formal you want to get with your outfit. I would pair this with a tucked-in top or tank. My favorite combo is a white skirt with a fitted beige racer back tank for a more casual vibe. DENIM JACKET: This is something that looks cute especially at night when the weather may have cooled down a bit. My favorite white denim jacket look is paired with a more colorful dress, or even a black dress with some great strappy sandals. DENIM SHORTS: This is a classic summer staple. When it’s too hot for denim pants and jackets, a classic denim short with any style top, whether long sleeve or short, preppy, casual, or just plain. The denim short offers versatility of dressing up or down, while still looking polished and chic for any time or place this summer.
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FINDING BALANCE: OPPORTUNITY IS KNOCKING JENNIFER RUSSO With everything going on in the world, you may not hear it well, but opportunity is knocking. I have been assessing a lot of things lately. If nothing else, this pandemic has given us time to reflect on our priorities, to see what is important to us and to do things a little differently. We have realized that life is not guaranteed and that we need to make the most of this time we have. For me, there has been a lot of introspection on whether or not I am actually living the life I want to. Am I doing everything I am passionate about? Is my day job giving me satisfaction? Am I being stifled by responsibility so much that I can’t participate in the things that bring me the most joy? It occurs to me that we have numerous chances given to us by the universe. If we aren’t ready to open that door yet, that opportunity may pass us by, but it may also try again later or a different one may present itself. But what are we waiting for? Always go with your gut, sure…but also be willing to take some risks. I don’t want to be the kind of person who wonders what would have happened if I’d just stepped out of my comfort zone. The thing about staying comfortable is that there is rarely growth in that single state of being. We need to push limits in order to become better and we need to notice these chances around us and not turn a blind eye when there is an opportunity to achieve our potential, even if we’re a little scared. In this case, fear is not a bad thing unless you let it be. Do that thing that brings you a fullness of self. If it works out, great. Some of the most influential people got to where they are because they simply opened a door and ran through it. And the funny thing about that is, when you go through the door, there will inevitably be another waiting there. Listen for the knocks. Namaste.
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WRW AD 1/2 HOUSE
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