MARYLAND'S CURE FOR WANDERLUST
September/October2017
EasternHomeAndTravel.com
GHOSTLY VISIONS ALONG THE COAST
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Indulge all Senses HARFORD COUNT N I Y
Touch
Hear
From breathtaking vistas and mouth-watering local produce to the crack of a bat and a bouquet of aromas, from shores to fields, Harford County has countless ways to spoil all your senses. Visit www.visitharford.com to plan your next trip. w w w. v i s i t h a r f o r d . c o m
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contents features 14 SPECTRAL SALEM
COMES TO LIFE IN AUTUMN
14
30 HERSHEY: MORE THAN JUST CHOCOLATE 30 60
36 PROHIBITION IS HISTORY IN FREDERICK, MD 48 THE WHERE AND WHAT OF
SOUTHERN MARYLAND'S ADVENTURE SPORTS
60 THE GHOSTS OF SOUTH CAROLINA'S LOWCOUNTRY
EASTERN HOME & TRAVEL
7
contents departments 24 CURIOSITIES
DUST TO DUST ACROSS AN OCEAN
29 GREAT READS
“A PLACE TO CALL HOME”
BY JAMES T. FARMER III
24 46
46 EAST COAST FINDS
PAUL ET MADELEINE
56 EAST COAST FINDS SINIPA GOURDS
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EASTERN HOME & TRAVEL
HIL Eastern Home&Travel Full Pg Sept-Oct 17 Ad.qxp_Layout 1 8/3/17 4:53 PM Page 1
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FEATURED CONTRIBUTORS SHUAN BUTCHER An Army veteran, Shuan has spent most of his life working in the nonprofit sector on issues such as arts and culture, heritage tourism, civic engagement, and community development. He is a member of the National Press Club. He published “Inspiration to Serve: 101 Quotes about Kindness, Caring, and Giving,” co-authored “Making Change for the Better: The Importance of Youth Giving,” and contributes to a variety of local, regional, and national publications. LEIGH COOPER currently lives in sunny Myrtle Beach, S.C. When she isn't busy writing for a variety of regional and national magazines, she can be found joyfully drinking Starbucks, fishing and playing golf very poorly.
EASTERN
Volume 5, ISSUE 6
&
Donna Elbert, Publisher donna@pulsepublishing.net
EDITORIAL
Melissa Howes-Vitek, Executive Editor melissa@pulsepublishing.net
Molly Fellin Spence, Managing Editor molly@pulsepublishing.net
Hailey Ploski-Sarno, Operations and Digital Manager REED HELLMAN is a professional writer living in Alberton, Md. Visit his website at ReedHellmanWordsmith.com, or email your questions and comments to RHWay2Go@yahoo.com.
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AMANDA JOHNSTON is a lifelong resident of Frederick County, Md. She loves Frederick’s unique history, its friendly residents and its shops and restaurants. A writer for more than 15 years, she most recently served as Assistant Director of the Historical Society of Frederick County, and has been active with the Tourism Council of Frederick County. She currently serves as a board member for Celebrate Frederick, and is completing her master’s degree in Marketing from UMUC. She lives with her husband, and their two tween and teen girls.
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TY UNGLEBOWER is a freelance writer, fiction author, sometime stage
ADMINISTRATION
actor and unabashed introvert. He lives in Knoxville, Md. You can follow him on Twitter @TyUnglebower, or read his blog at TyUnglebower.com.
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Barb Campbell Emily Gude Photography Brad Hall Spence Photographics
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EASTERN HOME & TRAVEL
MaRyl and Renaissance Festival
Time Travel To...
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from the
editor While many long for summer to last as long as possible, I am a true lover of all things autumnal. Yes, I'll miss fresh local corn, dancing fireflies and the late-night frog chorus. But there really is nothing like the cool, crisp air on a misty autumn morning, the sun glistening through the trees as they reflect a kaleidoscope of fall color. America’s East Coast provides a unique autumn experience. Northern states begin their vibrant display of color, while more southerly destinations provide an opportunity to extend that summer feeling. In this issue we explore some East Coast towns who's rich histories and occasional sightings of ghostly apparitions, put them on our don't miss travel list. Toss in an entire town that smells of chocolate, a Civil War city bursting with distilleries and a couple who's creative carving of gourds results in one-of-a-kind lighting for your home and that my friends, is what I like to call "my new favorite issue."
On The Cover
Chandelier that hangs at Springfield Manor Story on page 36.
Our writers were thrilled to once again fill this issue with stories about people, places and things that can be enjoyed no matter the season.
Melissa Howes-Vitek, Executive Editor
Carry on and don't lose the wanderlust!
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EASTERN HOME & TRAVEL
P H OTO G R A P H Y: B A R B C A M P B E L L
P.S. It is with heavy hearts that we announce the shuttering of Eastern Home & Travel Magazine. We have loved scouring the East Coast and bringing everything we love about it to your home for all of these years and will dearly miss it. Thank you for your loyal readership and support!
eastern-home-travel-full-pg-sept-oct-2017-ad.qxp_Layout 1 8/8/17 12:12 PM Page 1
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SPECTRAL SALEM COMES TO LIFE IN AUTUMN P H OTO G R A P H Y: S H U A N B U TC H E R
B Y S H U A N B U TC H E R
This time of year, when thoughts turn to ghosts and ghouls, there’s really no better place to visit and explore than Salem, Mass. Infamous for the Salem Witch Trials of 1692, this city has plenty to offer those wanting to explore the history and folklore of a trying period in Colonial America. But Salem also has unique architecture, maritime history, a world-class art museum and numerous dining options, among other features. To begin, your visit should start at The Witch House, the only remaining building in Salem with direct ties to the Witch Trials. Built in 1642, it was the home of Jonathan Corwin, one of the judges from the trials. The house’s architecture and design is a must-see, as it is one of the only structures in the U.S. built prior to the 18th Century. The home’s interior is set up to represent typical living during that period as well as interpret the ideas and beliefs that led up to the breakdown in community and paranoia that led to the Witch Trials. Next, travel to the Salem Witch Museum. Housed in a 1692 church, this museum allows visitors to experience a theatrical presentation through a series of dioramas that interpret the trials as well as the incidents leading up to them. Afterward, you can head downstairs to another exhibit that will challenge your perceptions of witches, witchcraft and stereotypes.
No trip to Salem would be complete without partaking in one of the many ghost tours or similar experiences. One evening, we joined the Spellbound Tour, led by a professional paranormal investigator. The tour meandered through the nighttime streets to hear supernatural tales about folklore and voodoo. One stop was outside the Old Burying Point Cemetery. In 1637, it was the first place set aside in Salem for the burial of the dead. 16
EASTERN HOME & TRAVEL
P H OTO G R A P H Y: S H U A N B U TC H E R
Another place worth a stop is the Witch Dungeon Museum. After viewing a live reenactment of a witch trial, which is based on a transcript from the 1692 event, you take a guided tour through a recreated dungeon.
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P H OTO G R A P H Y: S H U A N B U TC H E R
It contains the graves of Gov. Simon Bradstreet, Chief Justice Benjamin Lynde, Capt. Richard More (a passenger on the Mayflower), and individuals associated with the Salem Witch Trials. If you are not interested in the lore of the witch trials, don’t fret. Salem has a lot more to offer, including unique architecture, maritime history and some great places to dine and shop. When we arrived in the city, we immediately set out on a narrated sightseeing tour offered through Salem Trolley. The tour gives a good overview of the city’s history and drove by many of the attractions we had planned to visit during our stay. Tours last as little as an hour, or you can knock off several of your destinations by making a day of it – the trolley offers hop on-hop off service. One of our favorite stops was the Peabody Essex Museum (PEM). Advertised as one of the nation’s largest museums, it features New England maritime art, Native American art, Asian art and quintessential American art. Painters of the Colonial and Revolutionary era including John Trumball and Gilbert Stuart as well as contemporary artists such as Norman Rockwell are part of the permanent collection. The museum also manages a number of historic houses and other structures, such as a 200-year-old Chinese house. Tours of these historic places may be arranged through the museum in advance. Down the street from the PEM is the public art installation, “What the Birds Know,” from Stickwork artist Patrick Dougherty. Through the use of tree saplings, Dougherty creates an art installation that blends sculpture, architecture and landscape. This Stickwork creation was constructed in May 2015 through a community engagement process and, like all his creations, springs from his love of nature. Sitting just outside the downtown area is the Salem Maritime National Historic Site. Operated by the National Park Service, this site pays homage to
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the maritime history of the region. Walk down the wharf for a great view of Salem Harbor. The light station at the end of the wharf dates to 1871 and is the wharf’s only original surviving structure. Be sure to also check out the replica of the Friendship of Salem. The original ship was built in 1797 and made multiple voyages before it was captured during the War of 1812. The House of the Seven Gables is a seaside mansion that is a must visit during your stay in Salem. Made famous as a result of the novel of the same name by New England author Nathaniel Hawthorne, the house dates back to 1668 and was built by a successful maritime merchant. Also on-site is the birthplace home of Hawthorne and other structures that have been moved to the property that is indicative of colonial New England architecture. Take a minute to also walk across the street to the Ye Olde Pepper Companie. Reportedly it is America’s oldest candy company, as this confectioner has been manufacturing candy since 1806. Here, you can purchase fudge, chocolate truffles and other traditional items. But, be adventurous and try something different. We brought home a packet of peppermint gibralters (famously known as the first candy made commercially in America) and black jacks (an old-fashioned molasses stick candy) that is advertised as all natural, healthful and delicious. We also thoroughly enjoyed visiting Salem Willows, a seaside public park that reminds you of the small amusement parks of yesteryear or a boardwalkstyle setting. You can grab a meal or a snack, pop into the arcade and play games, or walk along the waterfront for scenic views of the ocean. For additional scenery, I recommend a drive along the Essex Coastal Scenic Byway. We took it from Salem to Gloucester and the coastal New England vistas, lighthouses and additional amenities along the way.
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P H OTO G R A P H Y: S H U A N B U TC H E R
RESOURCES THE SALEM INN 7 SUMMER ST. 978-741-0680 SalemInnMA.com BAMBOLINA 288 DERBY ST. 978-594-8709 BambolinaRestaurant.com
Bambolina opened in 2016 and features Neapolitan pizza that is hand stretched and made with flour imported from Naples and baked in a wood-fired oven. You can’t go wrong with any of the specialty pizzas on the menu, but some great options include toppings such as sea salt, house-ground fennel sausage, truffled egg, and cauliflower. Adriatic Restaurant & Bar is a Mediterraneaninspired restaurant that is located in the historic Salem News building. Again, everything we tried was fabulous. For starters, we ordered the grilled meatballs with garlic yogurt, cucumbers, mint and toasted crostini. We shared the arugula salad that included grape tomatoes, toasted pumpkin seeds, shaved pecorino cheese and lemon vinaigrette. Entrees included cavatelli with sausage, spinach, roasted peppers, parmesan and spicy oil; and the Munchkins, a bag of lobster, corn and scallion fritters with spicy Sriracha aioli. Gulu-Gulu Café, a European-style café, showcases work by local artists and hosts live music several evenings each week. They have a variety of adult beverage choices as well as an extensive coffee menu featuring a house blend. Delicious sandwiches include a grilled chicken sandwich and the Barcelona (turkey, fontina, apple butter, Dijon
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and arugula) with a side of greens. Be sure to check out the “Bewitched” statue in the public square right out front of the restaurant. We stayed at The Salem Inn during our visit. The inn consists of three historic homes within the same block. What we liked about The Salem Inn was the fact that it provided the coziness and unique character of a bed and breakfast, but the convenience and privacy of a hotel. It was also within walking distance of many of the attractions, restaurants and other sites we visited. In fact, the entire downtown area is very walkable. Salem is a great place to visit any time of the year, but really comes to life in the fall. Destination Salem can provide you with other suggestions for places to stay, eat, and visit during your stay. For more information, check out salem.org.
NEW HAMPSHIRE
*
Boston
MASSACHUSETTS 91
90
RI CONNECTICUT
ADRIATIC RESTAURANT & BAR 155 WASHINGTON ST. 978-594-1832 AdriaticRestaurantandBar.com GULU-GULU CAFÉ 247 ESSEX ST. 978-740-8882 GuluGuluCafe.com YE OLDE PEPPER COMPANIE 122 DERBY ST. 978-745-2744 www.yeoldepeppercandy.com THE HOUSE OF THE SEVEN GABLES 115 DERBY ST. 978-744-0991 7Gables.org PEABODY ESSEX MUSEUM 161 ESSEX ST. 866-745-1876 PEM.org SALEM TROLLEY 8 CENTRAL ST 978-744-5469 SalemTrolley.com SPELLBOUND TOUR 213 ESSEX ST. 978-740-1876 SpellboundTours.com WITCH DUNGEON MUSEUM 16 LYNDE ST. 978-741-3570 WitchDungeon.com THE WITCH HOUSE 310 ½ ESSEX ST. 978-744-8815 WitchHouse.info
P H OTO G R A P H Y: S H U A N B U TC H E R
As previously mentioned, Salem has a thriving culinary scene. I was surprised at the number of options that exist, perhaps because of my preconceived notion that it was an old, historic village rather than a thriving city. So, here are a few places you might want to consider trying:
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Make your own
SALEM
Magic.
HAUNTED
Happenings
TM
MASSACHUSETTS
Salem.org
HauntedHappenings.org
EMBARK on an unforgettable tour. Visit The House of the Seven Gables, a National Historic Landmark. Climb the famed secret staircase. Relax in the period seaside gardens. Explore the birth house of author Nathaniel Hawthorne. Take part in family activities. Shop for unique gifts. Be inspired as visitors, authors, & artists have been for centuries. Open year round. 115 Derby St. | Salem MA 01970 | 978 -744 - 0991 | 7gables.org
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DUST TO DUST ACROSS AN OCEAN
BY TY UNGLEBOWER
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EASTERN HOME & TRAVEL
P H OTO G R A P H Y: C O U RT E S Y O F T H E C O L L E C T I O N O F H E N R Y S H E L D O N M U S E U M O F V E R M O N T H I S TO R Y, M I D D L E B U R Y, V E R M O N T
CURIOSITIES
CURIOSITIES
Ancient Egyptians, especially royalty, did not generally practice cremation of the dead. They believed an intact body was needed to move around in the afterlife.
For this reason, the meticulous mummification process was used in order to preserve as best as possible the remains of the departed. Ceremonial burning of a body, therefore, would be unheard of.
from the oddity of an Ancient Egyptian prince being cremated and buried in a private family plot in a Vermont cemetery. (Complete with modern tombstone.)
Also unheard of to Egyptians in the time of mummies? Vermont. Tombstones and cemeteries. Christianity. And of course the ghoulish practice of collecting mummies and parts of mummies to use as anything from furniture to firewood.
The name Amum-Her-Khepesf-Ef appears on a simple gravestone found in West Cemetery on Route 30 in Middlebury. Along with the name, the following inscription:
Now, none of those things existed at the height of Ancient Egypt, so folks back then cannot be blamed for not knowing. That doesn’t take away
Aged Two Years Son of Sen Worset 3rd King of Egypt and his wife Hathor-Hotpe 1883 BC
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CURIOSITIES
At the top of the tombstone, a Christian cross, flanked on either side by Egyptian hieroglyphs-an ankh to the left and a bird to the right (symbolizing Life and Immortality, respectively.) It is not a prop or a joke; beneath the stone are, in fact, the remains of a mummified Ancient Egyptian child. How did these human remains make their way from the land of the Nile to the land of maple syrup? For much of the 19th century, it was very much a fad for the wealthy to collect mummies from Egypt. (Which at the time were being dug up by the score per day.) Considered a fashionable status symbol, anybody who was anybody had to have one. Collector Henry Sheldon of Middlebury was no exception. He, too, sent away for a
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EASTERN HOME & TRAVEL
mummy to add to his eccentric collection of artifacts and artwork. Upon receiving what was to be the jewel in his collection’s crown, Sheldon was disappointed; the mummy, torn open and damaged by water, was an unsightly mess, not at all suitable for displaying. The mummy was packed up and stored out of sight in Sheldon's attic, forgotten. After Sheldon died in 1907, his home and collection of curiosities became a museum. It was not until 1945 that then-curator George Mead discovered the deteriorated mummy. Deciding the mummy was still not fit for display, but believing AmumHer-Khepesf-Ef deserved a proper, (albeit by that time Christian) burial, Mead took it upon himself
to have the remains cremated, buried in a section of his own family plot, and given the tombstone described above. Scholarship that identified Sheldon’s mummy as a prince of Egypt is not considered air tight. But it is a certainty that to this day one can travel to West Cemetery and find the grave, if not the tomb, of an Ancient Egyptian. If you’re on the East Coast of the United States, that’s a lot less expensive than taking a trip to Egypt to see one. henrysheldonmuseum.org West Cemetery Route 30 Middlebury, Vt.
P H OTO G R A P H Y: C O U RT E S Y O F T H E C O L L E C T I O N O F H E N R Y S H E L D O N M U S E U M O F V E R M O N T H I S TO R Y, M I D D L E B U R Y, V E R M O N T
FOR MUCH OF THE 19TH CENTURY, IT WAS VERY MUCH A FAD FOR THE WEALTHY TO COLLECT MUMMIES FROM EGYPT.
8 RICH HISTORY Eclectic Architecture
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GREAT READS
“A PLACE TO CALL HOME” By James T. Farmer III
Combining the rich traditions of the past with the sensibilities of contemporary life, interior and garden designer James Farmer of Perry, Ga., is unapologetically Southern. Tour 11 diverse homes in the deep South— makeovers, remodels and new construction—as James Farmer brings together a cultivated mix of high and low, storied and new, collected and found. Woven alongside beautiful photography are personal stories James shares about living in the South and how he fell in love with a career of making houses into homes. A beautiful book to inspire Southern style at home. JAMES FARMER is the author of A Time to Plant, A Time to Cook, A Time to Celebrate, Porch Living and Dinner on the Grounds. His company, James Farmer Inc, is a full-service design company, including interiors and landscape. He lives in Perry, Ga. EMILY FOLLOWILL’S photography has been featured in her own book, “Southern Rustic Cabin”, as well as several previous James Farmer books and magazines such as Veranda and Garden & Gun. She lives in Atlanta.
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P H OTO G R A P H Y: C O U RT E S Y O F H E R S H E Y, PA .
HERSHEY:
MORE THAN JUST
CHOCOLATE B Y A M A N D A J O H N S TO N
A visit to Hershey, Pa., for many means a visit to the well-known amusement park, Hersheypark. Its origins trace to 1904, when Milton Hershey created a park as a place of leisure and diversion for the workers at his iconic chocolate factory. Today, guests who stay a few days will find there is much to do outside the roller coasters and thrill rides that make the park so famous. The entire town is rooted in history stemming from the tropical cacao tree.
In 1883, at the age of 26 and after two failed attempts at starting a candy-making business, Milton S. Hershey settled in Lancaster, Pa., near his childhood home and opened the successful Lancaster Caramel Company. He had been trained in the art of confection-making during a four-year apprenticeship, and as his caramel sales soared, Hershey set his sights on the Swiss confectionary, milk chocolate. After much trial and error, he settled on a recipe with a smooth, creamy texture and rich chocolate taste unlike anything that had been sold in America before. Construction of Hershey’s chocolate factory began in 1903, using the latest mass production equipment, and employing hundreds. Hershey’s milk chocolate quickly became the first marketed product of its kind. M O R E T H A N A FAC TO R Y A COMMUNITY IS BORN
Raised as a Mennonite, Hershey valued community and understood the significance of teamwork and rewarding hard work with good deeds. With these values as close to his heart, he created a town for his employees, complete with affordable housing, a transportation system, and a community center, which housed The Hershey Theatre. The theatre, with its stunning architecture, has remained a vital part of the Hershey community. Now it hosts touring Broadway shows and popular musical and comedy performances for all ages; the theatre is a destination.
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Tony Measley, tour guide and educator for the Hershey Theatre, described Hershey’s motivation to complete six buildings in town, in seven years: “He didn’t want the Depression to come here,” Measley said. “Construction of the theatre began in 1929,and Hershey used his own funds for the building campaign. More than 600 people were hired during this time and they had jobs. Many people didn’t during that time.” Measley explained that when the theater first opened, it was a community center. “The theatre was only 25 percent of the building,” he said. “There was a gym with a running track, a swimming pool, a public library, a smaller in-the-round theater, a junior college on the second floor where employees could receive free tuition, a hospital on the fifth floor, and an elegant dining room called the Blue Room for special occasions.” Around the 1970s, the community center parts of the building started to be replaced with newer facilities; however a gymnasium and pool are still used by Hershey employees. The theatre, a regional mainstay for entertainment, has stayed open to the public throughout its history. A EUROPEAN ARCHITECTURAL JOURNEY FOR EVERYONE
The Hershey Theatre has 1,904 seats, because that is how many people lived in town when it was built. “Hershey wanted each person to have a seat,” Measley said, a true testament to Hershey’s devotion to community.
P H OTO G R A P H Y: C O U RT E S Y O F H E R S H E Y, PA .
A L E S S O N I N FA I L U R E - C A R A M E L S TO C H O C O L AT E S
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P H OTO G R A P H Y: I S TO C K . C O M / S E A N PAV O N E P H OTO
P H OTO G R A P H Y: C O U RT E S Y O F H E R S H E Y, PA .
C. Emlen Urban, who also designed Hershey’s home High Point Mansion and the Hershey Press Building located next to the theatre, served as architect for the project. Hershey worked with Urban to complete the plans for a neoclassical lobby and Venetian-inspired theatre in 1915. Soon after the plans were finished, Hershey’s wife, Catherine, died of a neurological condition. In mourning for his wife, Hershey postponed construction of the theatre until the 1930s, which was the beginning of the Art Deco era. Determined to bring his original plans to fruition, he and Urban moved forward with the Venetian style anyway. “Materials and labor was cheaper due to the Depression,” Measley explained. “This allowed for the walls to be made of thick marble and the floor is lava rock. Artisans from Germany completed the gold mosaic in the lobby.” The theatre featured a state-of-the-art projection system to create an atmospheric ceiling of clouds and stars. “It was most recently used in the Broadway tour of ‘Once,’ when it came to the theatre,” Measley said. Also ahead of its time, the stage features five original lifts for moving sets up and down. The fire curtain, which was positioned on the stage to seal it off from the audience in case a fire would start backstage, displays a detailed mural of a Venetian waterway. “Venice was one of Hershey’s favorite places to visit with his wife,” Measley said.
P H OTO G R A P H Y: C O U RT E S Y O F H E R S H E Y, PA .
In keeping with the European architecture, Visintinestyle windows and a plastered ceiling structured to resemble Venetian wood paneling are featured architectural elements. A LEGACY CONTINUED
Remarking on Hershey’s legacy, Measley said, “I think it still lives today and through what people have done for the community. I think he would be very proud of what he would see - a very family-oriented community.”
A block down Chocolate Avenue from the Hershey Theatre is The Hershey Story, a two-level interactive museum experience dedicated to the life and legacy of Milton S. Hershey. The museum, built in 2009, features artifacts including a cancelled check for a ticket deposit for the Titantic (luckily due to scheduling conflict Hershey didn’t end up on the ill-fated voyage); a Hershey Glass Torchiere that was featured in the 1893 Columbian Exhibition and later displayed by Hershey in his Philadelphia soda fountain to showcase the beauty and power of electricity; and the personal china and dishes of Milton and Catherine Hershey. According to Amy Bischof, director of The Hershey Story Museum, the second floor features 10,500-square-feet of exhibits that embody five interconnected themes. One of these areas, “Sweet Innovations,” teaches about Hershey’s chocolate production. “Visitors can see a Hershey Kiss wrapping machine from the plant,” Bischof said. Touch screens allow visitors to interact with plant mechanics and learn the process to wrap a kiss. The architectural design of the museum was based on the Columbian Exposition at The World’s Fair in Chicago in 1893, which is where Hershey bought his first equipment, Bischof said. In addition to the museum exhibits in the upper level of the building, the main floor of the Hershey Story features the Chocolate Lab, where visitors can make their own chocolate bars and learn about the history, economics and science involved in the production of chocolate. Visitors can also sample warm drinking chocolates from various geographical regions in the new interactive program, “Tastings.” “We want people to learn more to Hershey than just chocolate. He was a businessperson, but he was incredibly generous,” Bischof said. “The things he started are still here today, like the theatre and school. It is not something that just happened a long time ago it is still happening today.”
RESOURCES THE HERSHEY THEATRE 15 E Caracas Ave. The Hershey Theatre Spotlight Tour discusses the history of the theatre, visits backstage areas of the theatre, and discusses Hershey’s legacy. It is available Fridays at 11 a.m., Sundays at 1 p.m. and by appointment. To schedule a tour visit mshersheyfoundation.org and to purchase tickets for performances visit hersheyentertainment.com/hershey-theatre/ THE HERSHEY STORY 63 W. Chocolate Ave. For more information visit www.hersheystory. org; and on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram @HersheyStory.
NEW YORK
PENNSYLVANIA 80
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Harrisburg 81
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IN FREDERICK, MARYLAND B Y A M A N D A J O H N S TO N
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Homegrown in its ingredients and history, Frederick County, Md., has a number of craft distilleries that organically offer visitors lessons in innovation, storytelling and environmental sustainability. Pair a visit to these “farm to flask” or “grain to glass” establishments with an overnight stay at a Victorian bed and breakfast, a farm house or a historic manor house where Edgar Allan Poe
P H OTO G R A P H Y: E M I LY G U D E P H OTO G R A P H Y
once slept, and visitors have an experience worthy of a being noted in an infamous bootlegger’s diary pages. Since 2015, when local legislation passed allowing zoning for distilleries in commercial districts, four distinctive distilleries have opened in Frederick County, within 15 miles of each other. The distillery industry is experiencing growth throughout the nation following “on the tails of the craft brewing boom,” according to Monica Pearce, who opened Tenth Ward Distilling in Frederick with business partner Kyle Pfalzer in July 2016. EASTERN HOME & TRAVEL
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M C C L I N TO C K D I S T I L L E R Y
Let your “bootlegs” take about a 12-minute walk across Frederick to McClintock Distillery at 35 S. Carroll St. Opened in December 2016, McClintock Distillery, named after renowned Frederick 19th century inventor McClintock Young, also prides itself on its roots. Braeden Bumpers and Tyler Hegamyer, college friends from Elon University, through a trick of fate came to own the papers and writings of Young, and themed the distillery around the innovative entrepreneur spirit of Young, who patented more than 30 inventions from sewing machines to sawmills. In 1887, Young started the Ox Fibre Brush Company in Downtown Frederick and his mechanical creations allowed one worker to create 70,000 brushes in one day. With inspiration taken from an inventor, Bumpers and Hagamyer studied their craft with master distillers at Koval Distillery in Chicago. Both being from Maryland, they decided to open a distillery in Hagamyer’s hometown of Frederick. “The food and alcohol scene here is one of the best in Maryland and the community here is all about supporting local products. We were absolutely thrilled to find our historic building right in the heart of downtown,” Bumpers said.
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The business partners purchased a 100-year-old mechanic’s garage with 5,400 square feet of space in Downtown Frederick and restored the space. They imported a 1,000-liter Kothe Pot/Collum Hybrid still that is handmade by a company in Germany before opening for business in December. “By using a German-made copper still we have the flexibility to make gin, whiskey and vodka on one system and the copper greatly reduces the sulfide carryover which is the nail polish remover taste you get with some spirits,” Bumpers said. McClintock offers three spirits, all of which won awards at the American Distilling Institute Annual Craft Spirits Judging this year. The Forager Gin, a vapor-infused gin using native herbs from the Appalachian Wilderness, won a silver medal and both the Maryland-Heritage White Whiskey and the Epiphany Vodka won bronzes. “Our next aged product to be released will be our Cognac-finished gin, which is our award-winning gin aged in used Cognac Barrels from France that gives our citrusforward gin a nice fruit body,” Bumpers said. He added that using 100 percent organic ingredients “is a big selling point for our spirits and opens the door to a lot of bars and restaurants that are looking for farm-to-table sourced products.” Bumpers said that he enjoys owning a craft distillery because it allows a chance for him to engage with visitors. “We are usually around to give tours of the 106-year-old building, and we just try and keep it fun at the distillery; so even if you are not into spirits you can always play cornhole or ping-pong and enjoy some live music or admire some local art that we keep in the tasting room.”
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Known for its eclectic hip and historic downtown district filled with boutiques, award-winning restaurants and bars, museums, architecturally stunning church spires, and colorfully painted 18th and 19th Century row houses, Downtown Frederick is a growing tourism destination with Washington, D.C. to the south and Baltimore to the east.
TASTINGS
DRAGON DISTILLERY
P H OTO G R A P H Y: A M A N DA J O H N S TO N
Grab an Uber and head across town toward Frederick’s regional airport for a distillery experience right out of the role-playing game Dungeons and Dragons. Owned by Mark Lambert, Dragon Distillery is themed after Lambert’s love of the game and features medieval tapestries, gargoyles, and props that create a dungeon-like environment for tasting spirits crafted in small batches with locally sourced ingredients. One of these spirits, “Bad” Bill Tutt Moonshine, at 100 proof, is exceptionally smooth just like its namesake, who is Lambert’s ancestor. Not to be missed is Fannie Tutt’s Lemon Meringue Moonshine, named after “Bad” Bill’s wife, Fannie, and her favorite lemon meringue pie. Guests can almost picture Fannie squeezing lemons as they sip this zesty spirit that pairs well with lemonade. And chocolate lovers need not be weary, as there is a specialty spirit to satisfy all temptations. The Medieval Mint Flavored Vodka starts with a refreshing taste of peppermint and finishes with notes of chocolate, and it is a great match for coffee or in a dark beer. Specializing in one-of-a-kind experiences, the distillery offers a workshop during which guests make a batch of unaged whiskey to take home in a small barrel. T E N T H WA R D D I S T I L L I N G
Tenth Ward, located at 508 E. Church St., in Frederick, is named for the city’s ward divisions in the late 19th century. The Tenth Ward section of town was primarily used for industry and was situated on the east part of town so the wind, which would blow to the east, would not spread the industrial smells throughout town. The detail spent in sharing Frederick’s history with its visitors is vital to Tenth Ward’s mission. EASTERN HOME & TRAVEL
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“My business partner, Kyle, has a background in Civil War history specifically, but we totally nerd out on both the industrial history of the region we are located in, but also Frederick’s history of distilling and more specifically of moonshining and bootlegging,” Pearce said. The distillery features newspaper articles on its walls about “moonshine busts, speakeasy locations, and just wild stuff that was going on in our town back then.” Its blog tells the tales of bootleggers, including Claude “Diamond Tooth” Countee, a ringleader of illicit stills and whiskey production in 1920s Frederick. Countee developed quite a reputation and was first arrested in 1922; he then escaped, but was eventually caught again and is thought to have died while in jail. These homegrown tales spur conversation, and lend to the rugged feel of Tenth Ward with its large X logo, custom bottles, and farm-to-flask raw ingredients, which Pearce states are “all sourced within 35 miles or less, then all distilled and bottled here in house.” The cider, which is the base of Tenth Ward’s Applejack (apple brandy aged in bourbon barrels) is supplied by McCutcheon’s, a fourth-generation apple manufacturing plant established in Frederick in 1938. To try something a bit different and solely unordinary, which is a bit of Tenth Ward’s motto, Pearce recommends a Jalapeño Margarita, which features the distillery’s smoked corn whiskey. “Our farmers smokes our corn so the whiskey drinks almost like a mezcal. The smokiness and spiciness play really well off each other,” she said. R E S T W E L L W I T H C H O C O L AT E S O N T H E P I L L O W, A N D R I S E W I T H C H O C O L AT E WA F F L E S
After a day of tasting spirits, check-in to 10 Clarke Place, a Victorian bed and breakfast in Frederick with a full wraparound porch that beacons to be relaxed upon. Owner Monique Pasquale has occupied the Victorian home for 27 years, restoring it to its 1830s grandeur.
After peaceful rest, awaken to a three-course breakfast prepared by staff who graduated from the renowned culinary school at Johnson and Wales University in Rhode Island. Indulge in chocolate malted waffles with strawberries and fresh whipped cream and imported maple syrup or a frittata made with organic ingredients including farm fresh eggs and cheddar cheese. Breakfast can be enjoyed in the dining room or in the organic garden at the back of the house. “Guests can easily walk to downtown shops, museums, attractions, and bars. When you stay here you experience and share the spirit of downtown Frederick,” Pasquale said.
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Luxurious accommodations include memory foam mattresses, embroidered waffle-weaved bath robes, and European chocolates in each room. Each guest room is nestled in the architectural beauty of the home, including the Turret Room, which is situated in the second-floor turret of the home. It features heated floors, a marble shower, and an onyx backlit vanity.
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L AV E N D E R G I N , M O U N TA I N V I E W S , A N D C I D E R M A K I N G
A second day tour of Frederick’s distilleries sweeps travelers through a rolling countryside reminiscent of France. Located along Frederick County’s Scenic Byway, Springfield Manor Winery & Distillery in Thurmont, Md., offers vast views of 135 acres of meadows and valleys. The manor was built around 1775 by James Johnson, who settled on the land after founding Catoctin Mountain Furnace with his brother, Thomas Johnson, who would later become the first governor of Maryland. Springfield Manor is rich in history and legend, including hosting author Edgar Allan Poe in 1835. Wealthy from his success at Catoctin Mountain Furnace, which served as a major supplier of iron in the region in the 18th century, including bombshells used during the Battle of Yorktown, James Johnson crafted his home to reflect his prominence. The grand stone home is situated on a rise of the Catoctin Mountains and offers panoramic views of corn and lavender fields, and the artesian springs, which give the home its name. Owners Amie and John St. Angelo purchased Springfield Manor and its farmland in 2004 and since have established a distillery and winery on the property. “We have amazingly naturally filtered fresh limestone spring water” at the estate which “make our distilled spirits award winning,” Amie St. Angelo said. The distillery is famous for its award-winning Lavender Gin, which recently won Best in Class at the San Francisco World Spirit Competition. The distillery crafts the spirit from its expansive lavender fields. Visitors can make themselves at home (and no designated driver is required) with an overnight in one of the manor’s eight suites. “It is a very different vibe from an in-town B&B,” St. Angelo said. “We back to Cunningham Falls State Park, so you can literally hike the mountains for miles. You can meander along our streams and see abundant flora and fauna. Guests walk up to the cornfield to see first-hand where we grow the corn to craft our bourbon and rye whiskeys.”
With so much to do in the region, stay another night and learn more about sustainability in the distillery industry with a journey to Fox Haven Organic Farm and Learning Center, an organic natural oasis in Jefferson, Md. The farm offers classes in beekeeping, mushroom foraging, yoga, meditation and mindfulness. You can also learn about the process of making cider with Eliza Greenman, an heirloom and cider fruit orchardist, farmer and activist. After a day of farming and cider education, tuck in for the night in one of the farm’s houses, including Spring House, a restored farmhouse that includes yoga mats and a walking path around the pasture. No matter where you stay or which distilleries you visit, it is undoubted that Frederick County is an amazing destination for craft spirit lovers.
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“One of the great things about Frederick’s distilleries is the way they have embraced local history. Each of the four distilleries has taken some unique part of our county’s heritage and incorporated it into their business. Whether it is the name of a spirit or the location of their facility, every nod to Frederick was done purposefully. Every one of these distilleries has an incredible story to tell that you can only hear in Frederick,” said Melissa Joseph Muntz, of Visit Frederick. “The distilleries all work incredibly well together. There is such value in being able to offer so many tasting experiences within a short distance of each other. Visitors aren't necessarily coming to Frederick to sample one product, they are coming to taste a wide variety of craft beverages.”
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S TAY I N A N O R G A N I C O A S I S
SMOKY JALAPEÑO MARGARITA 2 oz corn whiskey 1 muddled jalapeño slice juice from 2 lime wedges juice from 2 lemon wedges splash simple syrup splash triple sec Serve over ice. Garnish with salt, lime and jalapeño.
RESOURCES TENTH WARD DISTILLING COMPANY 508 E. Church St., Frederick 301-662-4297 tenthwarddistilling.com MCCLINTOCK DISTILLING 35 S. Carroll St., Frederick 240-815-5259 mcclintockdistilling.com DRAGON DISTILLERY 1341 Hughes Ford Road, Suite 108, Frederick 888-678-3724 dragondistillery.com SPRINGFIELD MANOR WINERY & DISTILLERY 11836 Auburn Road, Thurmont 301-271-0099 springfieldmanor.com 10 CLARKE PLACE BED & BREAKFAST 10 Clarke Place, Frederick 301-660-6707 10clarke.com
P H OTO G R A P H Y: C R E D I T P H OTO G R A P H Y: S P E N C E P H OTO G R A P H I C S
FOX HAVEN ORGANIC FARM AND LEARNING CENTER 3630 Poffenberger Road, Jefferson 240-490-5484 foxhavenfarm.org
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F R E D E R I C K C O U N T Y, M D
Wineries Breweries Distilleries
REQUEST A FREE BROCHURE Sip and sample local wine, brews, cider, mead, and spirits at dozens of unique tasting rooms across HIP & HISTORIC FREDERICK COUNTY, MD
visitfrederick.org
SPRINGFIELD MANOR
PRESENTS:
Lifting Spirits: Beer &Whiskey in the Civil War $10/$15 includes program, appetizers, & souvenir glass
Wednesday, Oct. 4 / 6-7:30 pm The Main Cup 14 West Main St., Middletown
Encouraging and investing in a vibrant and cohesive arts community for the people of Frederick County.
RSVP by Oct. 2 301.663.1188 x107 or mboswell@frederickhistory.org
Maryland Gin Wins Top International Award!
WINERY • DISTILLERY • BREWERY
lavender fields • tasting room • weddings & events for 300 • luxury accommodations • food & music • patio seating 11836 Auburn Road Thurmont, MD 21788 301-271-0099 SpringfieldManor.com
Come to taste…stay to enjoy!
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PAUL ET MADELEINE Born in France and raised in Italy and Switzerland, Pauline Bonnet de Kerdrel now lives in Easton, Pa., with her husband and two children. With a background in art history, Pauline has always been inspired by art, colors, textures and composition. Her personal belief is that a day without creating — even creating something very simple — is not a good day. Pauline believes the opportunity to create exists in everything. She creates while she's cooking, painting with watercolors, taking pictures with her camera, knitting with yarn, and sewing. After years in Pennsylvania, Pauline was missing her European friends, family and the general "je ne sais quoi" of France, which led to the creation of her business, Paul et Madeleine. Her brand is represented by a boy and a girl, hand in hand, and a simple party garland. These sweet garlands were the first items she sold. Playing with patterns and colors to define her own style, Pauline loves discovering textiles from around the globe that feature lovely patterns and incredible quality. Those special fabrics result is her clever and sweet items, perfect for travel. pauletmadeleine.com
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THE WHERE AND WHAT OF SOUTHERN MARYLAND’S ADVENTURE SPORTS
P H OTO G R A P H Y: B R A D H A L L
BY REED HELLMAN
Unusual physical and mental challenges distinguish adventure sports from conventional ones: speed, height and depth, for instance, and a number of uncontrollable environmental variables. In conventional sporting contests, athletes compete against each other under controlled circumstances, usually in some kind of confined or bounded arena. For adventure sports enthusiasts, the where is as important as the what. In Maryland’s three southern counties — Calvert, Charles and St. Mary’s — adventure sports venues add a unique where to the activity and enhance participants’ skills. As an example, a simple hike through the woods gains an element of excitement when it includes a wild stretch of Chesapeake Bay shoreline and hunting for sharks’ teeth in one of the world’s premier fossil beds. At Calvert Cliffs State Park, hiking the 3.6-mile roundtrip Red Trail leads to one of the few public access points along the internationally known Calvert Cliffs. Facing the Chesapeake, the cliffs extend more than 30 miles along the shore and hold the complete exposure of more than 600 Miocene Era fossils species, more than 10 million years old. The park’s Red Trail follows a small creek descending from the county’s spine to the Bay Shore. Though wet and rutted in spots, the trail is generally well graded and passes sprawling beaver ponds and wetlands. The Red Trail is free from steep climbs; however, the park has 11 more miles of trails, some with short but steep climbs up forested ridges.
E X P L O R I N G A P R I S T I N E WAT E R S H E D
Flanked by the Chesapeake Bay and sliced by two major river systems, Southern Maryland has myriad creeks and waterways where canoeists, kayakers and board paddlers can explore complete saltwater-to-freshwater routes through largely undeveloped landscapes. The American Chestnut Land Trust (ACLT) manages Parkers Creek, a pristine, largely intact tidal watershed and nearly 4,000 surrounding acres. The ACLT outfits and conducts a limited number of canoe tours up to the creek’s wilderness headwaters. The exciting launch into the Bay and dash into the creek’s mouth, followed by looping meanders through tidal wetlands, passes through a full spectrum of biotic diversity up to the freshwater at the creek’s head. The three-hour paddle, timed to the tides, can be challenging and strenuous. Along the way, eagles and ospreys ferry by overhead and kingfishers and red-winged blackbirds call from the creekside bayberry. A beaver dam at the creek’s head marks the end of navigable waters. In St. Mary’s County, mountain bike riders can pedal a little-known gem in St. Mary’s River State Park. The 7.5-mile trail circles the 250-acre St. Mary’s Lake, offering beautiful scenery and a variety of habitats, ranging from woods and fields to swamps and streams. A recently added 3-mile section created a 10.5-mile figure-8. “The main loop is unique in the area,” said Tre’ Johnsen of the Southern Maryland Mountain Bikers. “The length is unique. It’s generally considered an intermediate trail, but most riders can do it. It just takes some familiarity.” Stream crossings, ruts and roots add challenge to the single-track trail, and riders can also follow a series of side trails. One crossing involves traversing a downed tree and some gully and stream crossing shunt trails can add challenges.
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P H OTO G R A P H Y: R E E D H E L L M A N
N OT N O R M A L LY A N A D V E N T U R E S P O R T
Oystering is not normally considered an adventure sport; however, hauling up the tasty bivalves certainly does involve unusual physical and mental challenges. Watermen’s Heritage Tours offers up-close opportunities to experience how people make their living harvesting the Bay’s bounty. Begun as a partnership between the Chesapeake Conservancy, Coastal Heritage Alliance, Maryland Watermen’s Association and the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, the tours may include activities ranging from oystering to kayaking to cracking crabs and watching the sun set over the water. More than just recreation, these authentic experiences help preserve the watermen’s culture. Captain Phil Langley runs charter trips as well as Watermen’s Heritage Tours from St. Jerome Creek in St. Mary’s County. His guests pull crab traps or tong for oysters while learning the Bay’s maritime traditions. There is no better way to understand the Chesapeake waterman’s life than to go hand-to-hand with a pair of Captain Phil’s oyster tongs. “I take people out on a crabbing heritage tour and help them catch a couple dozen crabs the traditional way,” he explained. “I also want another option for watermen, rather than having to catch an ever growing quota of crabs or fish…We can’t keep treating the Chesapeake Bay as a commodity. Success with the heritage tours does not depend on how many bushels you catch.”
PA D D L I N G T H E G H O S T F L E E T
Mallows Bay Park could be Southern Maryland’s most intriguing adventure sports venue. Mallows Bay is a hardly a bay at all; it’s merely a narrow gouge in Charles County’s Potomac River shoreline. That shallow, forest border and largely isolated backwater is arguably the largest maritime graveyard in North America. Currently as many as 200 shipwrecks line the muddy shallows and molder along the shores. Among the derelict hulks lie the remnants of the largest shipbuilding program ever undertaken by this nation. Possibly the first ship to die in Mallows Bay was a longboat abandoned by rebel militia during the opening days of the Revolutionary War. Most of Mallows Bay’s hulks were built during World War I. After the war, hundreds of cargo ships were idled in ports throughout the United States and eventually sold for scrap. Many were towed up the Potomac River for final salvaging, and then abandoned in Mallows Bay for their last anchorage. Though more than 80 years of exposure to the Potomac’s vagaries have seriously reduced the size of the hulks, today the graveyard remains a mariner’s nightmare. For a quarter-mile out from the shore, the quiet waves wash over barely submerged tangles of rusted iron jutting up from the wooden outlines of once living ships. The curve of the hulls is still discernable, each a stitchery of exposed rods, railings and pins. In some places, one hulk has floated up on top of another, coming to rest diagonally across its mate. New life has also come to Mallows Bay. Myriad fish have found homes in the submerged hulks. Eagles and ospreys abound along with beavers and other wildlife. Humans have also returned to the bay. Charles County purchased the land bordering Mallows Bay and adjacent Marlowes Creek and developed a county park to manage the graveyard as a sanctuary for kayaks, canoes and jonboats. The park offers excellent wildlife viewing areas, small boating access to the Potomac River, a dedicated kayak launch, fishing and a hiking trail. Though adventure sports may not replace fishing as the Chesapeake’s premier recreational activity, the unconventional pastimes continue to gain popularity. Southern Maryland’s distinctive offerings challenge hikers, bikers, paddlers and other outdoor athletes with unique venues and adventures.
RESOURCES Reed Hellman is a professional writer living in Alberton, Md. Visit his website at www. reedhellmanwordsmith.com, or e-mail your questions and comments to RHWay2Go@yahoo.com.
PENNSYLVANIA 95 70
MARYLAND Annapolis
VIRGINIA
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leonardtown A great place to spend the weekend! et a taste of Southern Maryland at the Port of Leonardtown Winery. Winer Paddle the McIntosh Run water trail. Enjoy a sunset along Breton Bay. Dine at an outdoor cafe. Located conveniently in the heart of St Mary’s.
Don’t Miss These Great Events!
Veteran’s Day Parade November 11th 10 a.m. Christmas on the Square DON’T MISS THESE GREAT EVENTS! November 24th 5-9 p.m. St. Mary’s Crab Festival
June 11, 2016 Southern Maryland Film Festival July 15-16, 2016
visitstmarysmd.com/leonardtown
Just a short drive south of D.C., and along the Patuxent Wine Trail.
23190 Newtowne Neck Road Leonardtown, MD 20650
www.portofleonardtownwinery.com
NORTH BEACH unique & charming waterfront venues, natural beauty, relaxing atmosphere, bayfront sites or green space with gazebos. customize the package that’s right for you.
For more information, contact: Stacy Wilkerson 301.855.6681 or northbeach@northbeachmd.org
PHOTO: CM PHOTOGRAPHY
EAST COAST
SINIPA GOURDS Gourd lamp makers, Sinan and Junipa Süslü, are a married Turkish and American couple who decided to take their love for art and work together to create using an old Turkish tradition of making lamps from natural gourds.
Each handmade lamp is unique and the designs are conceived based on the shape and size of the gourd. Macramé, wood burning, beading and staining are varying methods used to accomplish the individuality and beauty of each particular lamp.
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Fusing a variety of artistic practices, the details are celebrated with a new twist. After each gourd is selected and cleaned, Junipa carefully renders the designs onto the prepared gourd and then Sinan cuts and hand-drills each motif using different drill bits. Junipa stains, paints, and/or woodburns the details and applies the protective coating. The design of some of the gourds call to be embellished with beads. The final step is when Sinan installs the lighting. Each lamp takes this Maryland couple about four to seven days, from conception to completion.
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P H OTO G R A P H Y: C O U RT E S Y O F S I N I PA G O U R D S
EACH HANDMADE LAMP IS UNIQUE AND THE DESIGNS ARE CONCEIVED BASED ON THE SHAPE AND SIZE OF THE GOURD.
From table and desk lamps to hanging and night light styles, there is a one-of-a-kind piece ready for your home. etsy.com/shop/SinipaGourds
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THE GHOSTS
OF SOUTH CAROLINA’S
LOWCOUNTRY BY LEIGH COOPER
South Carolina beaches may be better known for sunshine, lapping waves and miles of towering, oceanfront hotels, but, surprisingly, they’ve got a few good spinetingling ghost stories to tell as well. Most of them take place far from the hustle and bustle of the tourist attractions and the ever-present scent of sunscreen. Lowcountry ghosts prefer the more romantic south end, where the branches of live oaks are heavy with Spanish moss and the quiet marshes crackle with the chatter
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of oysters and clams at low tide. If you were a ghost, wouldn’t you prefer it?
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One of the most famous ghost stories from this region is probably the tragic tale of young Alice Flagg, the teenager born to an aristocratic family who made the mistake of falling in love with a poor man. At the crux of her story, Alice is living with her brother, Dr. Allard Belin Flagg, and their mother, Margaret, in a lovely home called the Hermitage on Wachesaw Plantation, a rice plantation given to her brother by their uncle. Dr. Flagg acts as a father figure to young Alice, as their own father has passed away. Alice falls in love with a poor young man, who probably worked in the lumber industry, although that is up for debate. When their love is discovered, Dr. Flagg sends Alice to boarding school in Charleston to separate them. That doesn’t stop them from secretly becoming engaged before she leaves. Alice’s lover gives her a ring to symbolize their commitment to each other, which she wears on a ribbon around her neck to hide it from her disapproving family. Her time in Charleston is short-lived. She becomes seriously sick. Some like to say her heart was so broken she couldn’t go on; more than likely, however, she contracted malaria. Dr. Flagg traveled to Charleston to bring his sister back to the Hermitage to care for her. Either during the trip back or once they got there, he discovered the ring around her neck. Infuriated that she defied him, he tore the ring away and threw it into the marsh. Alice spent the last days of her life drifting between unconsciousness and begging for her ring. Folklore has it that you can see her ghost searching the marshes for her ring, or haunting the house and grounds of the Hermitage. Others say you can summon Alice by visiting the All Saints Episcopal Church where many of her family are buried (including her brother) and where a plain slab simply engraved “Alice” garners daily visitors. Here’s where the story gets stranger still. Despite the wide belief that this is where Alice is buried, church records show that, in fact, no one is buried here. It’s thought to be a commemorative gravesite for another family member named Alice who was swept out to sea during the hurricane of 1893.
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Alice Flagg is actually interred at the Belin Memorial United Methodist Church and her gravesite is unmarked for unknown reasons. Was it so the man she loved couldn’t pay his respects? And why is her grave separate from her immediate family? Was her romance that scandalous? It seems a sad, lonely resting place for such a short life. THE GREY MAN
The legend of the Grey Man is also rooted in romance and tragedy. Back in the early 1800s, a sailor returned to Georgetown from a long voyage at sea. After so much time away, he was eager to see his fiancée, who lived in nearby Pawleys Island. He and his manservant took off on horseback as soon as they could. Somewhere between the townships, the two veered off the marked roads and cut through the boggy marshes to save time. It turned out to be a poor choice. The floor of the marshes is made of pluff mud, a viscous, tar-like substance that can suck a man down as surely as quicksand. Both horse and rider succumbed, leaving only the manservant, who retraced his steps back to the road and pressed on to tell the sailor’s fiancée that her man had died an unexpected and horrible death trying to get to her. The young woman was inconsolable. She began taking long walks on the beach to wear out her grief. Several weeks later, as the weather was taking a turn for the worse, she saw a man dressed in grey walking towards her on the beach. As he got closer, she realized it was her lost love. Depending on the version of the story, he either urgently motioned her away from the beach or spoke with her, telling her to leave before a devastating storm hit the area. Then he vanished. When the girl told her parents she saw her dead fiancé and of his warning, they moved inland to their second home, either because they believed her or because they thought she needed to see a doctor. The move proved fortuitous: a powerful hurricane hit the area, destroying nearly all the homes on the beach. All, that is, but the home belonging to the girl and her parents.
P H OTO G R A P H Y: C O U RT E S Y O F D I S C O V E R S O U T H C A R O L I N A . C O M
ALICE FLAGG
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P H OTO G R A P H Y: C R E D I T
In the centuries since his death, many people have claimed to see the Grey Man. He always appears before a terrible storm. Those who have heeded his warnings have had their homes spared. Since his story changes depending on who’s telling it, his identity is unknown, but witnesses say he’s always dressed in grey, like a pirate of old or a Confederate soldier. DRUNKEN JACK
This is less a ghost story and more the ultimate getting-left-behind story. Back in the 1600s, legendary pirate Blackbeard and his swashbuckling crew anchored their ship off the shore of Murrells Inlet to bury a stash of stolen rum. Then they spent the night eating, drinking and getting into typical pirate mischief. The next day, probably staggering with hangovers, they set sail for the open seas. By the time anyone realized one of their crew was missing – poor old Jack himself – they were under fire from an attacking ship and had to flee. It was two years before Blackbeard and his crew returned to Murrells Inlet. When they did, all that was left of Jack was his bleached bones and 32 empty casks of rum littering the beach.
P H OTO G R A P H Y: I S TO C K P H OTO. C O M / M A K A S A N A
Is it a true story, who can say? It’s difficult to believe that a hardened pirate wouldn’t have the life skills to live off the land, especially in an area so abundant in fish, oysters and shrimp that they practically serve themselves for dinner. Of course, if he was downing rum at that rate, he probably succumbed to alcohol poisoning long before hunger could become an issue. But it sure is a good story, and isn’t that the point with ghost stories? We don’t need them to be grounded in unshakeable fact. We need them to reduce us to wide-eyed children, listening raptly with our mouths slightly agape. We need them to make us believe in possibilities, to make us look curiously into shadows and have those giggles you get when you’re scared but you know you’re really safe. Or maybe each of these stories is real, and maybe you can find out for yourself. Come on down to South Carolina’s lowcountry, visit a moss-screened graveyard or two and see what happens. I dare you.
RESOURCES ALICE FLAGG • All Saints Episcopal Church 3560 Kings River Road Pawleys Island allsaintspawleys.org No one is buried here but it’s still worth a visit. The church and cemetery are beautiful. • Belin Memorial United Methodist Church 4183 Highway 17 Business Murrells Inlet belinumc.org Alice’s grave is unmarked. Her uncle, who gave his rice plantation to Alice’s brother, is buried here. THE GREY MAN Stay at one of these area hotels and enjoy wandering the lonely Pawleys Island beaches. Maybe you’ll see the Grey Man for yourself. (But let’s hope not, or your vacation will be cut short by a storm.) • Hampton Inn Pawleys Island 150 Willbrook Blvd. 843-235-2000 • Oceanfront Litchfield Inn 1 Norris Drive Pawleys Island 843-237-4211 litchfieldinn.com DRUNKEN JACK Jack’s story is so revered in Murrells Inlet that there’s a restaurant named after him. • Drunken Jack’s Restaurant 4031 Highway 17 Business Murrells Inlet 843-651-2044 drunkenjacks.com Drunken Jack Island, where the pirate was fabled to have spent his last days, is further south in Huntington Beach State Park. • Huntington Beach State Park 16148 Ocean Highway Murrells Inlet 843-237-4440 huntingtonbeackstatepark.net NORTH CAROLINA SOUTH CAROLINA Colunbia
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Plymouth County in the fall...it just doesn’t get any better than this!
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County
Edaville.com
A T T R A C T I O N S
SeePlymouth.com 800.231.1620 KingRichardsFaire.net
Where will
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Plimoth.org
visit begin? USAThanksgiving.com
JohnCarverInn.com
Funded, in part, by the Massachusetts Office of Travel & Tourism.
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