001
/seduction issue/
spring-summer 2019
illustration by Diana Loseva
Publisher&editor in chief Irina Rusinovich Art director/designer Kristina Moskaleva Publishing editor/writer Yulia Kryshevich Contributors Marat Mukhonkin Natasha Gorkaya Anna Chernenko Shuhrat Yusopoff Julia Svyatchenko Alena Lavdovskaya Eddie Tuvich Hannah Sobol Jennifer Milleder Katja Hof Miguel Maldonado Erdem Akkaya Anna Gorodnitsya Anastasiya Vavina Alexandra Richter Nadejda Weiland Veronika Konitzer Tonya Matyu Lorena Bohn Katerina Terekhova Vera Kulikova Emil Emirveliev Katya Warped Anna Istomina Tatyana Kostrova Inna Rothschild Alina Gross Frank Casselmann Nona van de Peer Jana Froehlich Lanka Nguyen Alwin Maigler
/on
cover/
Ksenia Lukash Photographer Marat Mukhonkin Style Natasha Gorkaya Make Up Anna Chernenko Production Yulia Sviachenko Location VOX Studios MOSCOW
For more information please contact hello@puprlehazemag.com www.purplehazemag.com © All material in this issue is exclusive to PURPLEHAZE MAGAZINE and may not be reproduced without prior written consent. © All copyright remains with the contributors.
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1
art section
18 alena lavdovskaya / p e r s o n a l i t y / 25 fille de l’or / p h o t o s t o r y /
↓ 32 allan banford
/interview/
39 duality / p h o t o s t o r y / 44 marlena machnio / p e r s o n a l i t y /
8
2
fashion section
55 city streets / e d i t o r i a l /
↓ 62 how fashion changed in the 20 century / h i s t o r i c a l
note/
while choosing your outfit it was crucial to show your belonging to a definite social stratum, which would be as good as saying I agree with all canons and traditions 78 butterfly life / p h o t o s t o r y / 98 patrick hellmann / p e r s o n a l i t y / 104 black beauty / p h o t o s t o r y / 112 ellen von unwerth / p e r s o n a l i t y / 117 fashion destination / e d i t o r i a l /
↑ 128 kirill mintsev purplehaze /seduction issue/
9
/interview/
3
*seduction section
134 girls legacy / e d i t o r i a l / 147 blind date / p h o t o s t o r y /
↓ 154 dmitry chapala
/interview/
160 cosmo draft / e d i t o r i a l / 171 silent love / e d i t o r i a l /
↓ 176 seduction in art:
paintings that tempted the world /historical
note/
how dare an artist depict a prostitute and be proud of it?! The scandalous masterpiece “Olympia” was created by the French artist Edouard Manet contents
10
↓ 190
set.3 cigarette / p h o t o s t o r y /
196 olga kornileva / p e r s o n a l i t y / 200 art project by alena lavdovskaya and edward tuvich / p h o t o s t o r y /
212 contacts 214 next issue
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editor's note To name the next theme seduction came to me spontaneously. Mainly because if you look close enough, you will notice that almost everything is about seduction. It is not necessary in sexual terms, but by tapping into someone's emotions. I, for example, always let myself be seduced by food & drinks, although my New Year resolution for 2019 was to drop weight by 10 kg! The thing is that seduction always comes as a slight hint at fulfilling our wishes — the slighter the hint is, the more graceful it looks. Nevertheless, the goal is satisfaction of our basic needs (you see, there’s no escape from Maslow's hierarchy). Actually, does anybody want to satisfy one's needs at once? I don't think so. Tension is a great part of the play. Staying hungry for some time brings inspiration, not taking it literally. You know, it's a case when the process is more important than the result. To bring this to a point, seduction seems to be quite a multifaceted subject. And I wonder what you think about it. I would like our contributors to share their visions of seduction through means of photography, fashion and art. What is it in your view, how does it feel like? Let us be surprised! Love, Irina ■
12
Miguel Maldonado / s t y l i s t /
Natasha Gorkaya / s t y l i s t /
Alina Gross / p h o t o g r a p h e r /
@miguelmaldonadostylist
@gorkaya_natasha
@alina.gross
/what
is
seduction
for
you?/
/what
is
seduction
for
you?/
Seduction for me is to show a beauty that is not visible to all eyes … but only to those eyes that can see that kind of beauty.
Seduction — is Art. Seduction is a Woman, a woman of art. To explain, I need to quote Bukowski: “God or somebody keeps creating women and tossing them out on the streets, and this one's ass is too big and that one’s tits are too small, and this one is mad and that one is crazy and that one is a religionist and that one reads tea leaves and this one can’t control her farts, and that one has this big nose, and that one has boney legs … But now and then, a woman walks up, full blossom, a woman just bursting out of her dress … a sex creature, a curse, the end of it all”. My inspiration comes from observing people, different, most often unfashionable people. I capture details, sometimes ridiculous, but directing to a new thought and approach.
contributers
14
/what
is
seduction
for
you?/
In the photo story “Blind Date” I asked myself what arouses me most, if it is a real body, a fantasy of this body and what this body does to me? I think, the date starts in the head and therefore the story shows the preparation for a date that takes place before the seduction itself. The sexual act is suggested in the still life with two strawberries in a champagne glass.
Marat Mukhonkin / p h o t o g r a p h e r /
Hannah Sobol / f a s h i o n
@maratmukhonkin
@hannahsobol
/what
is
seduction
for
you?/
/what
is
photographer/
Nadejda Weiland / s t y l i s t / @nadezhda_weiland
seduction
for
you?/
For me seduction is probably a feature, not a condition, there is no definition of seduction, I'm of course a visual and I am dragged away of beautiful faces and bodies, but this is not enough, if a beautiful body doesn’t have a beautiful soul, it's like idle ammunition, Bams. … and deaf silence. And if it is true and alive, then Bams and you mimic, swim, dissolve … probably this is what defines seduction magic for me.
Something that attracts in a sensual way. There is a quiet beauty in the notion of seduction.
purplehaze /seduction issue/
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/what
is
seduction
for
you?/
Seduction and Youth — these are the words that complement each other. For the search for inspiration for this shoot, my intuition sent me to the history of ancient Greece, where I found a detailed description of the seducer of those times, Hetera. Hetera is an educated unmarried woman who led a free and independent lifestyle. The men spent time in a company with Heteras for entertaining conversations, songs, dances, enjoying the aristocratic manners of the girls. It was this image that served as the inspiration for creating bows and shooting moods. Young, smart, beautiful, stylishly dressed girl, who accompanies a man on a business trip.
/marlena machnio/
“my creative activity is based on the need to combine fashion with art. I can not imagine mylife without browsing beautifully designed magazines with the smell of printing ink. They inspire me in terms of visual content and the structure of paper. I consciously use the way ofcutting out elements�
art section
alena lavdov skaya
/personality/
Text
Olga
Vostokova
Photo
Eddie
/fashion
i l l u s t r a t o r / Alena Lavdovskaya is a contemporary
fashion illustrator and artist, founder and art director of a unique creative studio producing content for fashion retail business — Fashion Illustration Studio. Among Alena's clients such renowned brands and magazines as Guerlain, Dior, Chanel, Lancome, Estee Lauder, Mercury Russia, she also draws for Vogue, Bazaar, Elle, Numero etc.
Tuvich
These photos and snapshots capture process of shooting a video “Making of Guerlain” that follows Alena’s collaboration with Guerlain and is timed to the release of the limited edition of #myrougeG lipsticks with hand-painted cases, design created by Fashion Illustration Studio. This is the first time in Russia a fashion illustrator creates an official illustrative campaign with a worldwide known brand. Beside the lipstick cases within this collaboration Alena's created illustrations for Vogue Russia printed edition, illustrations for Guerlain social networks, designed prints for t-shirts and iphone cases, collaborated with bloggers.
At the age of 17 Alena was granted a scholarship to study Future Leaders Exchange Program in California. Afterwards she was admitted to NABA, Milan, to become a fashion designer but there she realized that fashion illustration is a certain stand-alone profession and that was exactly what Alena felt like tending to most. This just turned her whole world upside down and set the course for the rest of her life. Alena believes that the main difference between fashion illustrator and fashion designer is that the latter designs clothes, has a feeling and understand-
Alena prefers live drawing and engages professional models to pose for her illustrations, like grand masters of the past like Rene Gruau and Antonio Lopes used to work. Alena's biggest inspiration are people who dare to do what they want to as professionals, who have courage and thrill to dream big and do even bigger. Such personalities as Rene Gruau, Tony Viramontes, Pietro Fornazetti, Andy Warhal, Miuccia Prada, Steven Meisel, Dries van Noten, Damien Hirst. /f a c t
one/
/f a c t
two/
Alena was born in Tbilisi, Georgia, in an artistic family and as a child used to spend time at theatre — behind the scenes — where she watched how sketches of clothes and puppets became costumes and decorations. Her parents’ house was abundant of art books and she was allowed to paint on the walls being encouraged to express herself.
purplehaze /seduction issue/
19
ing for material, shape and cut, yet he doesn't have to be good at drawing, he has to produce a cool collection. While an illustrator catches the image, transforms it with his or her unique artistic perception to give it a visual realization. The great maitres of the past like Christian Dior mastered a “combo” — created fine art being brilliant fashion designers.
art section
illustration by alena lavdovskaya → special for purplehaze magazine
alena lavdovskaya
20
personality
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art section
At Alena's workplace there are: inks and markers by Winsor and Newton, Montblanc ballpoint pens, Alena constantly experiments on style and technique. Working gadgets: iPad, Apple Pencil and ProCreate and cameras Canon 5d and Fuji Instax. And an impressive library of rare books on arts, fashion and magazines. Favorite's brands: Gucci, Prada, Dior. Key to success — speed and passion. Alena's favorite drawing formats is backstage drawing at fashion shows, she draws at Fashion Weeks in Milan and London, where one has just a backstage sneak of such models as Gigi and Bella Hadid or Kaia Gerber and you have to be really prompt and enthusiastic to create an outstanding visual content in short terms. /f a c t
three/
/f a c t
/f a c t
five/
alena lavdovskaya
22
personality
four/
Alena's career started at Gucci. She devoted 12 years working as a deputy creative director and later on as an official illustrator at the legendary TSUM store in Moscow. Having a vast experience in fashion business, illustration, art-projects and creative production she founded Fashion Illustration Studio — Russia's first agency specializing at advertizing illustrative campaigns, editorials, event illustration, creative
the signature ‘Alena Love’ came out of alena’s surname ‘Lavdovskaya’ in 2018 which can be interpreted as ‘LoveDoveSky’ customizing, branding and identity, design of prints and patterns for fashion designers and retail, production of animated movies and comics, photo and video production. Alena arranges workshops on fashion illustration worldwide — in Russia, England, Italy, Portugal — in collaboration with such luxury brands as Dior and Gucci and evolves #draw&travel project. — mmm
Alena often initiates and is invited to participate in art collaborations like “Drawing Dior” workshop collaboration and Art Performance for Museum of Russian Impressionism.
↑ Alena Lavdovskaya
The signature ‘Alena Love’ came out of Alena's surname ‘Lavdovskaya’ in 2018 which can be interpreted as ‘LoveDoveSky’ and also reveals Alena's moto “Everything we do, we should do with love” ■
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art section
24
Akkaya
25
Clara
Model
Bohn
Maldonado
Rupp
Lorena
Makeup artist
Miguel
Creative director and Fashion stylist
Erdem
Photographer
fille /photostor y/
de
art section
fille de l’or
26
photostory
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art section
fille de l’or
28
interview
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art section
fille de l’or
30
photostory
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art section
Text Irina
/interview/
/visual
allan banford
a r t i s t / Allan Banford creates abstract paint-
Art Allan
ings and installations. His art follows the concept of not maintaining a unique style developing a constant creative evolution. dentifying the boundaries between consciousness and reality his paintings capture movements, emotions, characters and, figures revealing an inseparable relationship between dimension and space. TELL US A BIT ABOUT YOURSELF, YOUR BACKGROUND AND YOUR WORK.
Rusinovich
When I was very little I use to draw everywhere but when I realize that I could do that on a canvas and keep it forever everything changed, I literally paint on top of most of the paintings in my house, very abstract pieces of landscapes and flowers, I was doing it for fun just to understand how a painting could express different feelings, some of them got better with my additions and everything was fine until I painted on top of my mum's graduation portrait and that was the end of the experiment.
↑ Chameleon
As a young teenager I move from painting to graphic design, I learned photoshop and illustrator by myself during school and then when to study adverting but the fact that I was learning from books and ideologies for other people didn't satisfy my
Banford
↑ Erotica
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art section
expectations so I decided to learn how to write and produce music to be able to give a voice to my creativity, it was great to manage to create my first song and even more to be signed by one of the best independent record labels at the time, the music gave me the foundation to understand how to materialize what it was going through my head and after a few years producing and playing music around the world, I decided to go back to my routs to rediscover painting.
my artistic journey starts with music, I was highly influenced by South American rhythms where music and dance are a fundamental part of the culture WHAT SET YOU OFF AS AN ARTIST?
My artistic journey starts with music, I was highly influenced by South American rhythms where music and dance are a fundamental part of the culture. Despite the fact that I study advertising and art history, I'm a self-taught artist, every single bit information has been crucial to developing my own style, constant self-education has been my secret.
↑ Neon DNA
TELL US ABOUT THE THEMES YOU PURSUE IN YOUR WORK
allan banford
My work is classified into four series: Retrospective Series: which portraits most of my abstract and figurative mix media work in canvas and wood panels. Calligraphy Series: Dedicated to capturing the essence and symbolism of different languages merge with abstract surrealistic environments. Equine Series: purely to efficiency the versatility, character, and strength of the horses and Amekura Series: for digital art.
34
interview
WHAT ART DO YOU MOST
I most identify with abstract surrealism, after an investigation the last over 2 years about the personal life and character as individuals from my artist references such as William Turner, Francis Bacon, Jackson Pollock, Mark Rothko, On Kawara, Gerhard Richter to mention a few I manage to develop a style that is deeply connected with my personality which reflects how I interpret reality and my subconscious graphically.
IDENTIFY WITH? ANY SPECIFIC INFLUENC ES OR RESEARCH AREAS? ↑ Echo
IS THERE SOMETHING YOU COULDN'T LIVE WITHOUT IN YOUR STUDIO? WHAT IS YOUR MOST ESSENTIAL TOOL?
TELL US HOW YOU ORGANIZE, PLAN, AND PRIORITIZE YOUR WORK?
purplehaze /seduction issue/
The most essential tool in my studio is music and light, with regards tools I tent to experiment constantly, therefore, I hardly ever use the same instruments per series apart from the basic brushes, knives and wood panels. My main medium is acrylic, I like the versatility of the element, how quickly dries but I tent to use mix media and diversify with unconventional elements like wax, hair, Chinese ink, and tape, with regards surfaces, wood is my element, the organic texture and character give the painting an individuality that is hard to perceive from stretched canvas but for some series canvas are good as well. There is none specific structure like sketching or test runs, I basically define the concept and start building from it, the only thing I plan in advance or before I start painting are the colors, I don't use more than 3 colors per painting which tent to be opposite from the clour spectrum most of the time and place the subject or visual interpretation for the abstract works following the principles of the golden radio.
35
art section
HOW DO YOU NAVIGATE THE ART WORLD?
DESCRIBE THE TRAJECTORY OF YOUR CAREER AS AN ARTIST SO FAR?
PROFESSIONALLY, WHAT IS YOUR GOAL?
ARE THERE ANY
Nowadays I'm one hundred percent merged in my surroundings, every trip, discovery or new experience give me enough information to carry on developing my style and visual interpretations, I try my best to keep my distance from social media influences or trends that segment and categorize creativity based on popularity, I'm constantly out at gallery openings, art fairs, artist talks and read a few art magazines dedicated to finding what's good out there. My career as an artist has been a constant evolution, the transition from music to art was key to evolve my creativity, from my first exhibition in London, the journey has been about finding clear ways to materialize my subconscious graphically, this process has taken me to win a few awards like the Global Artist Award commemorating the first anniversary of Nelson's Mandela dead with “Golden Peace”, the ArtSlant New York artist award with “Ego” and solo exhibitions across America, S.America, Europe and Asia. My goal is to create an artwork or art piece that will last forever either tangible or as a statement, something that makes us proud to be human and help future generations to understand how important is to believe in our selves not just as individuals but as species. At the moment I'm working on a transition from 2-dimensional paintings and digital art to 3-dimensional space interaction pieces. This project merges and separates spaces with it the same reality, questioning if what we see is really there, an exhibition from my Amekura series in Rome, Italy and a collaboration with the Hong Kong Ballet ■
UPCOMING EXHIBI TIONS OR PROJECTS IN THE WORKS? ↑ Picnic
allan banford
36
interview
↑ Plastic
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art section
Masha
Model
Sidorova
Anastasia
Vavina
Gorodnitskaya
Makeup artist
Anna
Photographer
dua /photostor y/
lity
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art section
/personality/
Text Paulina
/collage
c r e a t o r / She designed an alternative, unique two-di-
mensional reality and transformed it into a series of clothes for the American brand VIDA. What is more, she has started a cooperation with a Spanish photographer Ivan Clemente this year. Her activities are connected with the need to update the achievements of avant-garde collage creators and with the idea of designing professional artistic “mood boards”.
Brelińska
� paper, gold foil on paper 70x50 cm
purplehaze /s e d u c t i o n
i s s u e/
45
← paper on canvas 20x20 cm
In our reality, which has been dominated by a developing intermediality, navigating through traditional media is a bit risky. The world of art, so susceptible to new things, identify classic models with suspicious or even conservative approach. Marlena Machnio, a visual artist, goes in spite of such point of view and continues the tradition of avant-gardists, without unnecessary digital post-production. In addition, using the classic canvas, the artist combines her collages with a pictorial two-dimensional form, emphasizing the essence of traditional tools.
a visual artist links elements taken from beautiful journals: fashion stylizations, celebrity images and exclusive interiors and reorganizes them in a specific aesthetic order Since she started her professional career, Marlena Machnio has developed many creative activities very dynamically. A visual artist links elements taken from beautiful journals: fashion stylizations, celebrity images and exclusive interiors and reorganizes them in a specific aesthetic order. Due to the fact that: Machnio deliberately creates sugary visions, they are about to highlight both artificiality and unreal beauty each time with the help of advertising and marketing strategies. Compositions which are available on her website, have been created somewhere between the freelance orders, for pleasure and internal reflection. The constantly recurring motif in Machnio's works is a fashion model or a glamorous woman. It makes me perceive her art as something strongly connected with commonly known stereotypes. The vision of a person following trends is part of the convention of consumerism, a subject heavily exploited by artists. In spite of this, I can see in the collages a mood board, innovative value — the ability to record current fascinations and temporary admirations. Her works remain authentic and even represent a personal approach to the reality itself.
marlena machnio
46
personality
← paper on paper 29x28 cm
↑ paper on paper and canvas 25x25 cm purplehaze /seduction issue/
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art section
marlena machnio
48
personality
← paper on canvas
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art section
“My creative activity is based on the need to combine fashion with art. I can not imagine my life without browsing beautifully designed magazines with the smell of printing ink. They inspire me in terms of visual content and the structure of paper. I consciously use the way of cutting out elements and that's what shapes my surreal collages I'm inspired by order. The real order of visited places, here in Poland, but first and foremost in Paris. The aesthetics of boutiques, museums and the city itself influences on how I perceive reality, which I picture I'm not interested in creating ordinary things, but on the other hand I reach for images that I have at hand. Increasingly, I also decide to acquire archival artefacts from bizarre marketplaces or provincial bazaars” ■ /as
she
writes
in
artistic
statement/.
/Machnio
confesses/.
marlena machnio
50
personality
photo on canvas → 50x50 cm
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art section
marlena machnio
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interview
/yulia kryshevich/
reason to create your own style, isn't it? Well, it didn't use to be like that”
“the distinctive feature of the sphere is that fashion has always been absorbing — it has reflected all political social and economic changes. Now we're super relaxed in this way — trends come and go, a good
fashion section
coat&pants Devon London blouse Temper Berlin socks Francesca Castellano boots Bershka earrings H&M
/editorial/
city
Photographer
Matyu
Makeup artist
Lorena
Bohn
Fashion stylist
Maldonado
Tonya
Miguel Model
Maria
streets
Lukhmeneva
coat
Anel Official Berlin dress
Luna Morgaciova earrings
H&M
city streets
56
editorial
coat Devon London pants Anel Official Berlin blouse Temper Berlin earrings H&M
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fashion section
city streets
58
editorial
coat
Devon London pants
Anel Official Berlin blouse
Temper Berlin earrings
H&M
purplehaze /seduction issue/
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fashion section
coat Devon London pants Anel Official Berlin blouse Temper Berlin boots Bershka earrings H&M
coat
Devon London pants
Anel Official Berlin blouse
Temper Berlin boots
Bershka earrings
H&M
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fashion section
/historical
n o t e / Just like arts and science have been
developing throughout years, fashion has undergone a series of revolutions before it has come to what's now. However, the distinctive feature of the sphere is that fashion has always been absorbing — it has reflected all political social and economic changes. Now we’re super relaxed in this way — trends come and go, a good reason to create your own style, isn't it ? Well, it didn't use to be like that. A brief look over fashion of the 20th century is just below.
Text Yulia
Kryshevich
Lettering Anastasia
Gapochka
19th century paved the way for radical changes to take place in the upcoming one hundred years. feminist sentiments were arising that had a quick impact on women's everyday costumes: corsets were weakened, garments became looser, tailors started to care about wearer comfort not only about the external appearance of the clothes. fashion remained to be the main standard for social set-up. While choosing your outfit it was crucial to show your belonging to a definite social stratum I agree with all canons and traditions, I gently follow the assumed role. English fashion experienced the influence of ancient and gothic style, while French women were inspired by imperialistic trends. one could hardly see women wearing pants or even manlike jackets. Femininity just like in the best /background/
/on
the
one
/on
good
as
hand/
the
other
hand/
/which
would
saying/
/despite
how fashion has changed in 20 century
64
all
diversity/
historical note
be
as
traditions of Victorian England was highly praised. it was the only option accepted by the society. the situation was about to change very soon‌ /actually/
/however/
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fashion section
1900s
on the edge of the century /straighter and straighter/ Beauty of the time /slim, graceful, elegant/
In England which was that time considered to be a trendsetter along with France women stepped into Edwardian era. That means they became aware of politics and even engaged into some white-collar jobs that earlier were men's prerogative. Shirtwaists, ankle-length skirts and tunic-like jackets replaced well-padded dresses with accent on bust and hips. Another crucial point is sportswear. A new woman was expected to be not only socially but physically active as well, the main purpose for that was staying in shape. Motoring veil for driving and sailor hats were frequently used among noble ladies.
women became aware of politics and even engaged into some white-collar jobs that earlier
1910s
were men’s prerogative /exotic opulence (until it’s over)/
Quite a controversial decade in the sense of the contrast between pre-war and post-war years. Women in the early 1910s started trying on stage if not to say scenery looks inspired by Russian ballet and avant-garde theatre. Girls bobbed their hair and put on well-above-the-ankle-length skirts. A mania for Orientalism emerged bringing pantaloons, turbans and vivid colors into haute couture fashion which was really in the spirit of the Art-Deco movement. World War 1 broke out in 1914 and immediately made women choose clothes rather out of necessity than allure. Skirts-and-tunics ensembles preferably in monochrome colors matched war-time activities of women and complied with war-crinoline style.
how fashion has changed in 20 century
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interview
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fashion section
jazz era Beauty of the time /tall, slender (small waist, narrow hips), still elegant/
1920s
/modern and loose/
“Roaring twenties” or “Golden twenties” are both good names for the decade when US and Western Europe enjoyed prosperity as the World War 1 was over. Jazz blossomed and it’s culture immediately conquered the world — short haircuts for both men and women, even more extravagant outfits that didn't lose its minimalistic and convenient traits that were appropriate for day-activities and night parties. Rich fabrics such as satin silk and velvet were favored by couturiers, at the same the idea of mass-fashion comes up with jersey dresses and sportswear being affordable for wide audiences. Surrealism and art-nouveau inspired mechanized smooth and functional looks.
short haircuts for both men and women, even more extravagant outfits that didn’t lose its minimalistic and convenient traits that were appropriate for day-activities and night parties
1930s
/boyish no more /
Though Great Depression taking over the major world powers, fashion foamed with glamour and therefore new sense of femininity. Midi-length day-dresses and graceful evening gowns, tilt hats and knit berets — women were supposed to look by no means aggressive but they still stayed attractive even while choosing less expensive garments. Cockie bobs suddenly changed for clean hair dressings. “Ready-to-wear” fashion was all the rage, creating a nice neat dress on a shoestring was considered to be a good taste. Garments were better decorated than those in the 20s, more attention was drawn to details but still they remained quite decent.
how fashion has changed in 20 century
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historical note
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fashion section
how fashion has changed in 20 century
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historical note
war and post-war years Beauty of the time /hourglass physique, appealing face features, pointedly cared-for look/
1940s
/beautiful soldier /
The 40s turned out to be contradictory for fashion in the sense of its ideals: women had to stay charming and fresh in spite of all harshness of war reality but they also had to keep up with it. Hourglass silhouettes were considered as iconic shapes but still many “stout” size clothing lines appeared as many women didn’t possess the desired lady-like shape. However, one would hardly describe garments of the decade as glamorous while war-time was absolutely unsuitable for this. Padded shoulders were nipped in high waist tops, skirts were A-line. It was common to put on pants to go to work in the factory or at least a shirtdress . Mostly no jewels used, colors were obscure. It was important to stay stouthearted what found its way in the dayto-day appearance.
women had to stay charming and fresh in spite of all harshness of war reality but they
1950s
also had to keep up with it /eternal feminine/
In contrast with the past years, life after war was considered to be perfect and traditional. Women returned to their social roles as mothers and housekeepers, a new request for feminity to the utmost was formed. An hourglass silhouette was still praised except that body measurements mattered even more. To create a tiny waist women used extremely tight bodices, they accented their hips with pencil skirts or full dresses in the spirit of Dior who was really famous that time. “Leisure clothes” became popular even for wearing at home, accessories that matched outfits were “must-have”. Thinking one’s look through to the every detail such as stockings or buttons were supposed to be woman’s vast (if not to say main) duty.
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fashion section
hippie era Beauty of the time /freedom-spirited, lively, thin (at least, well-knit)/
1960s
/summer of love/
Although early 60s really reminded in its style of the previous decade, further on fashion became more and more rebelling. Women bottled up in tight corsets suddenly broke free putting on super short skirts and trapeziform dresses. Previously adored icons such as Marilyn Monroe or Jane Russel were replaced with new stars among which were Twiggy, Audrey Hepburn and Jane Birkin. All standards were turned upside down: skinny girls were preferred to thick ones, dark and intense, even fluorescent colors were all the rage, large and cheap accessories fitted well the new understanding of elegance. Looking childish and independent at once was a new fashion trend which was really in the spirit of the emerging hippie, rock'n'roll and punk cultures.
all standards were turned upside down: skinny girls were preferred to thick ones, dark and intense, even fluorescent colors were all the rage, large and cheap accessories
1970s
fitted well the new understanding of elegance /flight of fancy /
The 70s turned out to be a mish-mash decade combining all the best fashion samples of previous years. In contrast with all those 40s, 50s and even freedom-loving 60s, the decade of 70s didn't dictate what to wear but suggested being creative and mixing up styles. The ideal of a skinny 16-year-old looking girl was still present but became less of an issue. Brigitte Bardot, Bianca Jagger that we're really popular that time had more balanced figures let alone Sophia Lauren's tempting curves. Fashionistas of 70s tried on jumper dresses, shirtwaists, mod mini dresses, granny dresses, peasant and caftan dresses — that all is to be continued. Intense colors were still favored but lighter tones were possible as well. Of course, women wore pants and jeans, preferably bell-bottomed. The motto of the 70s would probably sound as “Feel free to create your own style”. Well, the accumulated fashion heritage was more than enough for this.
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disco fever Beauty of the time /self-convinced, shiny and … anyone can be a star/
1980s
/wild and free again/
As many people justly notice, the era of the 80s left a big aftershock, fashion is not an exception. The famous British designer Vivienne Westwood pushed forward punk style, skinhead movement, rap and disco culture flourished as well. People were not afraid of looking splashy — they craved it! Slogan and airbrushed T-Shirts, oversized jumpers, dance wear, huge earrings, Adidas trainers worn far and wide were considered as current trends. Many mainstream brands such as Esprit or Lacoste became popular in the 80s. On the other hand, haute couture was also wide awake, just remember Gucci's sweatshirts!
people were not afraid of looking splashy — they craved it! Slogan and airbrushed T-Shirts, oversized jumpers, dance wear, huge earrings, Adidas trainers worn far and wide were consid-
1990s
ered as current trends /same anti-conformity — less show-off/
The decade of the 90s remained bold in its way but got rid of the pending details more sticking to minimalism. The 90s said “yes” to ripped jeans, naked bellies, slip dresses and grunge squared shirts. Preppy, Hip-hop, Brit pop culture considerably influenced fashion but it didn’t look as kitschy as it used to a decade before. People seemed to be ready for a new millennium, tired of cliches they still felt interest towards new ideas — such talented designers and fashion brands as Ann Demeulemeester, Ralph Lauren and Comme des Garçons worked at these goals. Millennials or Gen Y born that time were brought up with a feeling of strong self-unicity what found its way in their outfits.
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the 21st century has come The previous 100 years made a good groundwork for all those changes and mergers in fashion to happen after the Millennium countdown. Well, nothing is new under the sun but still creativity finds its way. you don't have to follow any standards to enjoy life and be amazing today. Remember that each appearance criterion set by the society has its external reasons and one day will be changed. However, love and self-care are evergreen beauty standards. Do we have to say more? ■/what
was
actually
next/
face
/that
now/.
/good
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we
Warped
Daria Alexandrova, Tatyana Filatova
Set-Designer
Tatyana Kostrova, Tatyana Filatova, “Ko r o l e v s t v o S n o v�
Designer costumes
Katya
Photographer
birth Daria
Model
Anna
/photostor y/
life Urusova
Istomina
Makeup artist/stylist
Sergey Kulikov, Inna Rothschild, Anna Rasskazova
Accessories
butterfly
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death butterfly life
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patrick hellmann /personality/
Text
Ann-Julie
/fashion
d e s i g n e r / Patrick Hellmann, international fash-
ion designer based in Berlin, is the mastermind and creative director behind the Patrick Hellmann Collection brand. The designer is known for his perfectly fitting suits which are made from the finest fabrics and manufactured with great attention to detail.
Tritten
Patrick Hellmann was born in Casablanca, Morocco. The designer-to-be discovered his passion for fashion as a child in his father's studio. When the family moved to the USA, Patrick Hellmann remained loyal to the fashion industry and worked for one of the country's most famous fashion chains before moving to Berlin, his father's birthplace. With his great knowledge of textiles and design, he soon founded his own label: Patrick Hellmann Collection. The elegantly cut suits and the aspiration to always deliver the best quality soon gave Patrick Hellmann a reputation that went far beyond the boundaries of Berlin, eventually allowing the brand to expand to other cities. Over the years, the company has continued to expand and a women's collection has been added. The suits and tuxedos for women were met with particular excitement. With sharp lines that emphasize the feminine silhouette, Patrick Hellmann has created an androgynous look for the strong woman. “For the woman who knows what she wants” is what Patrick Hellmann tells his international customers. Today, the designer creates two men's and two women's collections a year, as well as a collection for children. But that's not all; architecture and interior design are Patrick Hellmann's second
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great passion. In a stylish blend of Art Déco and Bohemian, he designs furniture and entire interior design concepts for the Patrick Hellmann Living line. Patrick Hellmann wanders between worlds and blurs the boundaries between design lines. His interior design is also inspired by the fashion world. Italian suit fabrics, soft velvets and fine silks are used with elaborate detailing and couture embroideries. In addition, he designs furniture which is built by Europe's finest craftsmen. It is no wonder that over the years many international brands have sought to cooperate with Patrick Hellmann. His latest coup is the “Lalique Suite, designed by Patrick Hellmann”, commissioned by Marriott for the famous “Prince de Galles” Hotel in Paris. But you don't have to travel that far to spend a night in the world of Patrick Hellmann. The designer has now fulfilled a long-cherished dream with the opening of a fashion hotel of his own, the Patrick Hellmann Schlosshotel. The hotel in the elegant district of Berlin Grunewald is a place where Patrick Hellmann welcomes his guests as he would family and friends. Under the motto “Your Fashion Destination” Patrick Hellmann combines the beauty and elegance of the fashion world with the superior service of a 5-star hotel ■
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Photographer
Katerina
Terekhova
Makeup artist
Vera
Kulikova
/photostor y/
Model
Faina
Chidinma
Producer
Emil
Emirveliev
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ellen von unwerth /personality/
Text
Anna
/world
famous
p h o t o g r a p h e r / No one has ever
imagined a young model to turn into a world-famous photographer but she was the case. Ellen von Unwerth started her career on the catwalk in front of dozens of camera lens — now she holds a camera herself and the way she does it, simply inspires. Considered to be a famous German photographer, she creates both erotic and feminine and fragile works that you could have seen at Vogue, Vanity Fair and Interview. Ellen's unique style has surely made a strong impact on the world of fashion photography and filmmaking.
Rhyzhenkova
Straight after high school, Unwerth got her first job in the circus. This place has been really special for her since the early childhood. Within two years Ellen had been working in circus trying to combine her job with study, until once she was spotted by a scout from a model agency. That's how her career in fashion was launched. Having worked as a model for more than ten years, Ellen never really enjoyed the job. “I always wanted to do something silly on camera but they would not allow me to. As a model I was really dependent”, — she says.
Ellen's boyfriend was the first to suggest she could start taking photos. He gave her a camera and explained some basic steps. A few pictures shot by Ellen were enough to discover her talent in photography — a start was made. Later she learnt to print photos.
the most amazing about Ellen is the way she manages to capture unique shots — the secret for this is her ability to create an atmosphere of freedom, play and fun on the court Success came to Ellen von Unwerth with her first commercial order. It was a shooting for Guess Jeans advertisement with Claudia Schiffer. The first pictures immediately grabbed the attention of public with their openly sexual overtones. Moreover, her erotic photos attracted the editors of the most influential fashion magazines. Since then, Ellen's works have regularly been published in Vogue, Harper's Baazar and Vanity Fair. The most amazing about Ellen is the way she manages to capture unique shots — the secret for this is her ability to create an atmosphere of freedom, play and fun on the court. Ellen does not like statically posing models. She is attracted by movement, rhythm and energy of the girls. “The best thing one can say about my photo is ‘Wish I would be there’ ” — claims Ellen. This relaxing, non-structured and very intimate approach allows her creating incredible photographic stories. Perhaps one of the reasons for Ellen's success in photography is her modeling background. She posed for the world-famous photographers, such as Helmut Newton and Oliviero Toscani. Or maybe Ellen's secret is her sincere sympathy — she falls in love with every person she shoots. Models trust Ellen infinitely and agree to take any risk or try provocation in response to her sincerity. Ellen loves experimenting with the eras. Here is the Bohemian chic of the 20's: the languor of poses, feathers, stockings and corsets. Also, the revolutionary emancipation of the 60's: combs and miniskirts. Ellen loves classic Hollywood films and regrets that they are not shown on the screen anymore. She renders appearances of favourite Hollywood actresses such as Brigitte Bardot, Sophie Lauren and Marilyn Monroe in models. However, Ellen's love for cinema is traced not as much in models' outfits as in the style of shooting. The vast majority of the work is done in a contrasting black and white manner, beloved by the directors of German Expressionism. While flipping through Ellen's works, it reminds of the style of the action film.
↑ Kylie Minogue for Stylist magazine
↓ Revenge story book
Unbelievable but true: Ellen made her first thematic album “Revenge” just in three days in 1994. She chose models, defined the plot, found the location and… even foresaw the weather. The project “Revenge” is one of the most striking among all Ellen's works. The exhibition has been shown in galleries all around the world. In this project, Ellen von Unwerth shares a beautiful erotic story in her usual provocative manner. We observe a gorgeous sexual game in the country house. Three young girls arrive at the Baroness's estate in the anticipation of a quiet weekend, but they find something completely different from what they have expected… A series of photos looks like an purplehaze /seduction issue/
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↑ Revenge story book by ellen von unwerth
↑ Revenge story book by ellen von unwerth
↑ Bavarian memories book
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encyclopedia that gradually illustrates all the attributes of the sweet captivity. The characters' games combine danger and fun, features of modern life with its frantic rhythm.
“For me, the circus has always been more than just a show with animals. The one I worked in was small with really beautiful lights and music. It had its own special charm and poetry. Working in the circus became an invaluable experience for me” Although Ellen became widely known as a fashion photographer, she doesn't limit her occupation to this. She also collaborates with musicians and singers and even does clipmaking. Ellen von Unwerth has dozens of commercials, music videos and short films to her name. In the early 90's she took promotional shots for Duran Duran and became an author of the video “Electric Barbarella”. Since that many musicians seek to get under her artistic direction. Among others Ellen von Unwerth has worked with Janet Jackson, Christina Aguilera and Britney Spears — Ellen designed the cover of “Blackout” album in 2007. Her latest solo exhibition called “Ladyland” was held in London-based Opera Gallery in May 2018. Looking forward to seeing your new projects this year, Ellen! ■
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dress
&Others Stories sandals
Carolina
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Photographer
Richter
Makeup artist
Konitzer
Alexandra Veronika Fashion stylist
Nadiya Model
Yulia
/editorial/
Shport
Producer
Irina
Weiland
fashion
Rusinovich
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H&M belt
UterqĂźe
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ZARA costume
Monki shoes
Maison Margiela
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turban
Missoni top
ZARA skirt
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corset
Intimissimi shirt
Hugo Boss shorts
Cos
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Text Julia
/interview/
/avantgarde
Kr yshevich
kirill mintsev
designer/
Photo Eddie
Tuvich
Collage Mariam
HELLO, KIRILL! THANK YOU FOR TAKING TIME FOR THIS INTERVIEW. YOU KNOW, ONE CAN HARDLY FEEL NO EXCITEMENT OVER YOUR CAREER — YOU HAVE TAKEN PART IN DOZENS OF FASHION SHOWS IN MOSCOW AND IN EUROPE, YOU HAVE LAUNCHED A FEW PERSONAL BRANDS AS WELL. COULD YOU THINK OF SUCH A SUCCESS 15 YEARS AGO? AS FAR AS I KNOW, YOU WERE ENGAGED INTO THE WORLD OF FASHION WHEN YOU WERE A CHILD…
Duduchava
Glad to hear this, thanks! It's really important for a creative person to know that some people share this opinion. However, I think it's too early to speak of success, everything is ahead (at least, I hope so). Actually, success isn't like a final score — it implies hours of hard working. If we don't talk about hypes, of course — this thing is temporary. I started to fall in love with fashion in my childhood. For me fashion is a kind of art — art of self expression, not only for me but for my clients as well. I enjoy creating fashion images as it really blows my mind when I do it. I am so pleased to see people wearing my clothes and accessories. For me as an artist it’s a kind of top-award.
i really enjoy gazing at people, watching the way they dress. I find it cool when someone mixes incongruous things. I love looking at freaks and extravagant outfits. At the same time I'm not really fond of people wearing all kinds of fashion brands — they had better choose both premium and secondary labels. I always stay for style as it's more about soul than commerce while trends are short-term and money-oriented I WOULD SAY ONE OF THE BRIGHTEST EVENTS IN YOUR LIFE SO FAR WAS YOUR PARTICIPATION IN THE PODIUM RUSSIAN TV-SHOW. SHARE YOUR IMPRESSIONS, PLEASE. WAS IT A KIND OF DEBUT FOR YOU? YOU HAVEN’T TAKEN PART IN SUCH MAJOR SHOWS BEFORE, HAVE YOU?
No, I haven't. However, taking part in Podium wasn't an absolutely new experience for me as I had starred in smaller TV projects before. Anyway, being a part of Podium show was great challenging and really exciting — I don't think I have experienced something similar in my life..
BY THE WAY, DO YOU KNOW ANY DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PODIUM AND ORIGINAL PROJECT RUNWAY? THAT AMERICAN ONE WITH HEIDI KLUM HOSTING THE SHOW WAS A LIVING LEGEND…
KIRILL, IT'S NO SURPRISE THAT YOU LIKE AVANT-GARDE — ONE CAN SEE IT IN YOUR WORKS. AVANT-GARDE AND FUTURISM ARE TIGHTLY CONNECTED BUT THOUGH LOOKING AHEAD TO THE FUTURE YOU PREFER FOLLOWING NATIONAL TRADITIONS AND TRANSFERRING THOSE MEANINGS THROUGH IMAGES. QUITE A SOPHISTICATED MIXTURE. CAN YOU TELL MORE ABOUT IT?
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Certainly it was! I think, participating in analogous projects might be a bit easier… Anyway, I'm proud of the experience gained. We worked to deadlines at a dead run. Creating a wedding dress less than in 24 hours, isn't that a hardcore? Sometimes we just had 4 hours time for work and then let our models step on the runway and be judged by the panel and viewers. It's really complicated to stay cold-blooded and keep on working when you're simply tired and feel pressure because of the contest. By the way, many analogous shows and even Project Runway itself have one trial per a day while we had two trials! We sewed every single day during two months. Podium show is a like a fashion army! I would say I had passed this test. Another difference has to do with mentality. Russians seem to be more interested in private lives of designers as average people rather than in the process of creation.
Elements of a national costume that I often use don't always refer to national traditions. Elements here are just what they are. Oh no, I'm not a futurist. Futuristic ideas are radical and quite aggressive, I would say. I don't want to discriminate past times for a better future as the concept is narrow. My avant-garde is a new ideology of freedom and independence. I am not prone to breaking rules in order just to break them. I choose what I like with no regard to originality of this idea. I share the philosophy of postmodernism and metamodernism and I enjoy living in present. Constantly looking for a basis in history, I'm trying to build links between past and future. For me, it's sure enough that armour suits turn into exoskeletons, it's just time effect. You know, fashion is self dependent — cycles, trends and so on. Fashion is like a set of rules that I usually don't follow but I do neither intend to break them. I like eclecticism and selectivity and revolutionary movements. Customization and recycling are my favorite topics. The reason for this is that I use those trends to citate times and my relation towards it.
fashion section
EACH DESIGNER
It's a tricky question for me. I would even say, it's a mystery that I don't want to solve: otherwise, this knowledge can only disturb. Put it simply, my main inspiration triggers are arts, music, nature, traveling, technologies, history, people and love.
WANTS TO CRE ATE AN INDIVIDU AL IMAGE. HOW EVER, WHAT OR MAYBE WHO IN SPIRES YOU IN YOUR WORK? LAST YEAR YOU ACCUSED BURBERRY FASHION DOME OF PLAGIARISM. FORTUNATELY, THE MATTER HAS BEEN SETTLED. CAN YOU STILL FEEL A SORT OF AFTER TASTE BECAUSE OF THE ISSUE? HAS IT INFLUENCED YOUR RELATION TOWARDS BURBERRY'S WORKS?
KIRILL, YOU ARE A DESIGNER AND AN ARTIST IN A WAY. I SUPPOSE IT'S HARD TO SURPRISE YOU BY A LOOK. DOES IT ACTUALLY HAPPEN THAT A STRANGER’S OUTFIT ASTONISHES AND INSPIRES YOU?
KIRILL, THANK YOU FOR THIS CONVERSATION — IT WAS A PLEASURE TO KNOW YOUR OPINION. LAST BUT NOT THE LEAST, WHAT WOULD YOU WISH PURPLE HAZE READERS?
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That's true, it was a complicated issue. Some people supported me while other criticised my claims. One thing I'm sure about is that one can affect the whole situation being just a drop in the ocean. That's great! This story impressed and made me stronger. By the way, it's nice that we had no litigation and solved the issue peacefully. I signed a settlement agreement with Burberry and that was it. I really enjoy gazing at people, watching the way they dress. I find it cool when someone mixes incongruous things. I love looking at freaks and extravagant outfits. At the same time I'm not really fond of people wearing all kinds of fashion brands — they had better choose both premium and secondary labels. I always stay for style as it's more about soul than commerce while trends are short-term and money-oriented. I wish all of you love, freedom of thought and inspiration! Confide in yourself despite all life difficulties. We live in the interesting times — one should stay attentive and flexible as everything changes quickly. So many great things await us in future — I can't help looking forward to it! ■
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/dmitry chapala/
“as for me, seduction is a glance of the model, an emotion on her face grasp more than her naked body. One's body is never enough — there has been too much of it recently everywhere, specially in the social networks so it all looks sickening. That's why I look for fetishes and use them in my works”
*seduction section
Photographer
Hannah Makeup artist
Katja
Hof
Fashion stylist
Jennifer Models
Sobol
Milleder
Lisa-Lena Trittscher, Maureen Ugodi
/editorial/
earrings:
MONKI shirt
Christoph Rumpf
/l e f t :
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hat Sassa Ann van Wyk
shirt and pants Jennifer Milleder gloves Gabriele Budweiser via Handschuh am Neubau socks MONKI shoes Caparrini /r i g h t :
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hat Sassa Ann van Wyk shirt and pants Jennifer Milleder socks Calzedonia shoes Julia Skergeth all garments Jennifer Milleder purplehaze /seduction issue/
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MONKI
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Julia Skergeth shirt
Christoph Rumpf tulle skirt
Lanvin
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Weekday
knitted top Larissa Falk plastic coat Jennifer Milleder plastic backback Julia Skergeth
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Urban Outfitters pants
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Weekday dress Jennifer Milleder
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shirt Larissa Falk
tights FALKE
hat
H&M collar
COS
hoodie jacket
Burggasse24
pants
Jennifer Milleder shoes
BEBO
/l e f t :
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hat Sassa Ann van Wyk
shirt and pants Jennifer Milleder gloves Gabriele Budweiser via Handschuh am Neubau /r i g h t :
maureen/
hat Sassa Ann van Wyk shirt and pants Jennifer Milleder
all garments Jennifer Milleder tights Calzedonia
dress Jennifer Milleder
shoes Julia Skergeth
pants Urban Outfitters shoes BEBO
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/l e f t :
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plastic bag
Julia Skergeth shirt
Christoph Rumpf tulle skirt
Lanvin
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Weekday socks
H&M
shoes
Sacha /right :
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hoodie coat
Burggasse24 shoes
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Gross
date Frank Casselmann
Assistence
Sven Fischer, Ira Kajin
Models
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Photographer
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Text Yulia
Kr yshevich
/interview/
Photo Dmitry
Chapala
HI DMITRY! THANK YOU FOR JOINING US TODAY. I WONDER HOW YOU CAME TO THE IDEA OF TAKING PHOTOS OF NUDES! COULD YOU TELL US A BIT ABOUT YOUR CAREER AS A PHOTOGRAPHER?
THE MAIN CHARACTERS ON YOUR PHOTOS ARE ALWAYS WOMEN. WHAT ABOUT PHOTOGRAPHING MALES OR CHILDREN OR SOMETHING COMPLETELY DIFFERENT LIKE STILL LIVES?
Hi! I've been working as a photographer for more than 10 years. Photography has always been one of my favorite hobbies — for this reason I honestly take photos of what I really like and find beautiful. In my opinion, the most gorgeous thing ever created by nature is women body. However, I got tired of making shots of just beautiful physics at the very beginning, that's why I started giving preference to showing emotions and feelings of the model. My goal is not to impress the viewer but rather to make him/her think over an image, experience it and imagine it in one's own way. I seldom make photos of males, even less of children. We all shall do our jobs and enjoy this process. Some people photograph other subjects better than me and they like it more either. The best part is shooting, I would say. Then I can leave the world behind and just tune out. The most difficult and time-consuming part is photo selection which I present to a viewer. It's important not to make any mistakes here.
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DOES IT SOMETIMES HAPPEN THAT YOU FAIL TO GET ALONG WITH A MODEL? SHE FEELS SHY AND JUST CAN'T COME OUT OF THE SHELL, YOU ARE NOT SATISFIED WITH HER POSING. WHAT WOULD YOU DO IN SUCH A CASE?
DO YOU THINK YOU ARE CAPABLE OF CREATING GOOD PHOTOS OF EACH GIRL OR YOU SEEK PROTOTYPES CARING ABOUT SPECIFIC PHYSICAL TRAITS OF A MODEL?
A good photographer must have an eye for people. I am quite easy at getting along with models, I can make them feel comfortable and relax and rely on me. Sometimes it can go hard, of course but still — since you are ready to put time and effort into the process, you will see the result: beauty, emotions and feelings. Well, I seek specific types of girls for my artistic shootings, those that appeal to me even if they don't fit in the recognized beauty standards. However, I won't finish until I achieve my goals while working with usual clients. Everyone has strengths and weaknesses — you just need find and emphasize the strong points. Many but not all. As for me, a glance of the model, an emotion on her face grasp more than her naked body. One's body is never enough — there has been too much of it recently everywhere, specially in the social networks so it all looks sickening. That's why I look for fetishes and use them in my works. Each of us has dozens of fetishes in his/her head — every time I deal with different category of people and their fantasies. My favorite examples are hair, saliva, neck, collar bones, hip-bones, ribs, long fingers, thin wrists, ankles, freckles, gaps in teeth, suntan shades, smeared lipstick. I can go on and on listing :) ■
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top Diverse Shop rings KoJewelry, Graff
cosmo
/editorial/
Photographer
Marat
Mukhonkin
Style
Natasha
Gorkaya
Assistant Stylist
Yusopoff
Shuhrat Make Up&Hair
Anna
Chernenko
Models
Xenia Production
Lukash
Studio Producer
Julia Location
Vox
draft
Vox
Production
Sv yatchenko
Studios
Moscow
bag
Pinko dress
Rimarka boots
Manolo Blanik cosmo draft
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jacket Dolche &Gabbana rings KoJewelry, Graff
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Sol Selivanova Olga skirt
Masha Kraft high heels
Manolo Blanik ring
Graff, KoJewelry
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coat Masha Kraftt
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Jackson De Ville body
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high heels
Manolo Blanik
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Photographer
Nona
van
Makeup artist
Lanka
de
silent
Peer
Nguyen
Fashion stylist
Jana Model
Froehlich
Hannah
Siebert
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ASOS DESIGN jacket
Vintage boots
HONDO chain
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Vintage off-Shoulder top
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House of DanaĂŤ
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Designed by Jana Frรถhlich longsleeve
Napo
bracelet
Nylon
silent love
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Vintage pants
Zara
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Mango boots
FLOGART earrings
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ASOS DESIGN
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/historical
n o t e / The reason why so many people love art is that it
is about beauty and/or truth. The intersection between aesthetics and ethics in human minds has intrigued philosophers for hundreds of years. In terms of seduction the balance of power is clear: forgetting about conscience we yield to subjective desire, affection. The majority of artists followed the aim to seduce the viewer to believe what's pictured and to impress him/her with an absolute visual perfection. Those artists who tried to awake one's sensuous perception as well, played all-or-nothing-game — those who won, took it all. Here are the 6 paintings from a few centuries that still heat the world's imagination. Pure seduction, pleasant viewing!
Text Yulia
Kr yshevich
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One of the most prominent representatives of Florentine school Botticelli was believed to be inspired by Lucretius poems while creating this painting. “Allegory of Spring� is another name of the work that can boast of having plenty of meanings. Apart from the mythological subject implied, all of us can enjoy the visual part: both dominant and beautiful figures of young women symbolizing spring renewal and freshness of feelings. Botticelli's world is idyllic and full of sexual metaphors that are still admirable though created more than 500 years ago. Primavera is often compared with Birth of Venus, another brilliant masterpiece by Sandro Botticelli that has been probably seen by each art-lover living on the Earth.
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Hardly one would argue that the most famous work done by da Vinci is La Gioconda or Mona Lisa. However, the attractiveness of its main character (presumably, wife of the merchant Francesco del Giocondo) is doubtful despite her magnetic glance whereas another painting by Leonardo da Vinci is a true temptation. We are talking about his “Leda and the Swan�. According to Greek mythology, the God Zeus turns into a swan to seduce a mortal woman of unique beauty called Leda who later bears Zeus children. Remarkably, the original painting by da Vinci has been lost what inspired other artists to create their own versions of Leda and the Swan. Among them were Cesare da Sesto, Paul Rubens, Paul Cezanne and many others.
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First exhibited at Paris Salon 1865 a painting with the nude woman posing on her bed relaxedly caused a big public outcry. How dare an artist depict a prostitute and be proud of it?! The scandalous masterpiece “Olympia” was created by the French artist Edouard Manet who is supposed to be one of the earliest Impressionists. A real slap in the face of public conscience, the work tackles social issues and has a voluptuous context at once. The figure of Olympia is modeled after Titian's Venus of Urbino (1538) but just look at the face of the young woman — no divine innocent glance anymore. She is aware of her worth and doesn't hesitate a minute to be the center of attention.
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The French fauvist artist Paul Gauguin spent a great part of his life on Tahiti — for that reason dozens of his works are devoted to the bright exotic island and its inhabitants. Tahitian girls seem to have cast a spell over Gauguin: he depicts their austral charm, their natural but calling beauty as a contrast to reserved appearance of terrestrial women. “Are You Jealous?” features two female Tahitians peacefully communicating with each other, just like whispering. Their conversation is likely to have a very intimate manner, no arguing at all. That makes a viewer crave to tap the secret and join young ladies lying on the rosy lilac sand.
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The painting was created by the famous artist during his Rose period (1904–1906) which was full of romance and joy. Together with George Braque Picasso was the earliest Cubist artist and this particular movement made him world-famous, however, “Young Acrobat on a Ball” still belongs to Picasso's expressionist and symbolic works. The main characters of the painting are a grown-up equilibrist and a young acrobat, probably his daughter. There are plenty of meanings that are ascribed to the work by experts but its leitmotif is just in the air. An eye-striking contrast between the reflective equilibrists image and light tender vision of the girl. Not all critics share the opinion that there is a seduction play between the two characters but still the work has some tension in it that evokes erotic connotations.
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The full name of the masterpiece is too long to remember at once — Dream Caused by the Flight of a Bee Around a Pomegranate a Second Before Awakening. It's a surrealist painting created by Salvador Dali in his best tradition mainly based on dream interpretation (strongly influenced by Sigmund Freud's theory very popular during that period). A naked sleeping girl in the foreground was probably painted after Gala, Dali's life muse. Pomegranates symbolize fertility and resurrection, while a bee is believed to be a symbol of the Virgin. Salvador Dali never denied any sexual context being present in his works — on the contrary, he did his best to emphasize it. “We are all hungry and thirsty for concrete images. Abstract art will have been good for one thing: to restore its exact virginity to figurative art” — the artist said ■
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/photostor y/
set.3 Photographer
cigarette Alwin
Maigler
Model Ariane
Ganz
Body wear Calvin
Klein
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olga kornileva /personality/
Text
Anna
/ p h o t o a r t i s t / Olga Kornileva is a law yer who is based in Saint Petersburg. What does it have to do with seduction, you might ask? Well, let's get acquainted with what she's doing to judge it in a proper way.
Rhyzhenkova
Although Olga holds a law degree, she has been always interested in arts. Some might say it's like a hobby for her (quite a common story today), but the way she expresses her emotional and intellectual life writing books and creating photoworks suggests it's a more than just a hobby for Olga. It's not just the proper color or texture that's important but the vibes that the artwork creates. Each drawing and photo done by Olga comes as a range of expression of artist's feelings, thoughts and mood.
“Passion, pain, love, desire, maybe hate or adoration. They all go aside, make our lives and are reflected in my artworks” /olga
said/
Olga always tries to revive her art. She makes the pictures blurred and dotted because she wants her works “to breathe” avoiding advertisement pictures effect. “Usually the desires that people have, speak for themselves. That’s why there is no need in adding extra details”, — Olga claims. Actually, the artist focuses in her works on just a few intense things that have a strong expressing potential. How can one best show emotions, mood and feelings? Involving people, of course. Olga is aware of this — she captures unique moments making photos of women that seem to be sad, in passion or love. You know, erotic isn't necessarily about nudity but a desire for touch.
Olga believes that not just eyes but each part of our body can tell a lot about a person. Color of the lipstick chosen, the way one's hands look like — dozens of clues hidden in the human's body and appearance heighten artists' curiosity. However, Olga is sure that great seduction always comes together with pain. Sometimes it is even hard to distinguish what sort of emotion is inside you, love or pain — so commingled they seem to be.
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“This artwork gives you a feeling of continuity: just imagine that pain leaves — great passion leaves either. Emotional suffering and pleasure are inseparable. That I would call a universal law of great emotions”. It is widely accepted that looking at great masterpieces many times awakes different emotions. It might be the same with Olga's works. People see a happy woman absorbed by seduction and love at first sight. Next time they observe killing pain, then happiness again. How do photographs cause such confusion? Perhaps it is a question of color palette chosen. Personally Olga prefers really bright colors: pink, orange, yellow, green and red.
olga creates her own world by combining real and mysterious. she uses popular allegories and reflects them in her models Olga lets models live their own life (behave naturally) while capturing them on photos. Real-life stories, legendary books and films inspire Olga Kornileva to come up with outof-this-world plots. For example, one of her works was created after reading a famous book “Venus in fur” by Leopold von Sacher-Masoch. Olga decided to create her own Venus — dominant, beautiful and dangerous, just as she sees it. “Perfect seducer. Intelligent, elegant, sensual and cruel in her own way”. Olga creates her own world by combining real and mysterious. She uses popular allegories and reflects them in her models. Photo that represents a “Firebird-Goldenfish” is a good example. These two characters come from Russian tales — a firebird from a faraway land that glows with bright colors and is said to predict future and a goldfish that can grant wishes to those who catches it from the sea. Olga takes these two characters and revives them in women. On the photo below a model represents the luck of the Goldfish and the beauty of the Firebird. Olga says it were Saint Petersburg sphinxes that became a source of inspiration for this artwork. The sphinxes were brought from Egypt to Russia at the height of the Egyptomania in 1832. At first, they were placed in the Russian Academy of Arts and then moved to the embankment nearby. “Those beautiful creatures of half female-half animals capture your mind and hypnotize forever”. Olga does not hold large exhibitions yet. However, you can find her works right now on saatchiart.com — all of them are worth seeing. A connoisseur of humans' feelings, she has her own sense of seduction. Olga plays with different kinds of the strongest emotions that everyone faces, showing the smallest things that express the whole story of women, whether it is love, hate or desire. Using blur and dots, unusual foreshortening, Olga makes you feel that you are part of someone's life story. Great seduction to experience it yourself, isn't it? ■
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Tuvich
Fariza Rodriguez
Makeup artist
Sonya Aleksandrova, Maya Giter, Anya and Ilya
Models
Alena Lavdovskaya
Đ?rt director and stylist
Eddie
Photographer
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fille de l’or Miguel Maldonado www.miguelmaldonado.net, @miguelmaldonadostylist Erdem Akkaya www.erdemakkaya.com, @erdemakkaya Lorena Bohn @lorenabohn.mua Clara Rupp @clara.rupp Francina Models @francinamodels duality Anna Gorodnitskaya @yuki.madness Anastasia Vavina @avavina Masha Sidorova @hungrychorus
contacts
city streets Miguel Maldonado www.miguelmaldonado.net, @miguelmaldonadostylist Tonya Matyu www.tonyamatyu.com, @tonyamatyu Lorena Bohn @lorenabohn.mua Maria Lukhmeneva @maria_lukhmeneva, @tannmodels Luna Morgaciova @luna_morgaciova Temper Berlin @temper_berlin Devon London @devonlondonworld Anel Official Berlin @anel_official_berlin Francesca Castellano @francescacastellano STUDIO 183 @studio183_berlin butterfly life Katya Warped @katya_warped Daria Urusova @ambrozus Anna Istomina @anna_istomina_maniac Tatyana Kostrova @tatyana_kostrova Daria Alexandrova @melamarad Sergey Kulikov @amelitanarion Inna Rothschild @inna_rothschild Tatyana Filatova @filatova5897 Anna Rasskazova @drakonyashe4ka “Korolevstvo Snov” @volkova_culture Olya Chernysheva @olyssoly Katya Volkova @krekerkate Tatyana Mikhailova @mikhailovatan_ya Tatyana Krasnova @krasnovanet Royal Studio @royal_studio_photo ellen von unwerth source of picture https://www.designscene.net/2014/03/ kylie-minogue-stylist-ellen-von-unwerth.html source of picture https://shop.spiritandfleshmag.com/ products/ellen-von-unwerth-s-bavarian-memories source of pictures //babylikestopony.com/products/ revenge-by-ellen-von-unwerth-signed-numberedslipcased-first-special-edition kirill mintsev Mariam Duduchava @neolismatica Kirill Mintsev @mintsevkirill blind date Alina Gross @alina.gross Sven Fischer @svenfischer_20 cosmo draft Marat Mukhonkin @maratmukhonkin Natasha Gorkaya @gorkaya_natasha Anna Chernenko @chemeann Xenia Lukash @xenia_lukash Studio Vox Production @voxproduction 212
Julia Svyatchenko @juliasvyatchenko Vox Studios Moscow @voxstudios silent love Nona van de Peer @nona Jana Froehlich @fjana__ Lanka Nguyen @lala_stuff Hannah Siebert @hannah.siebert Model Management @model_mgmt set.3 cigarette Alwin Maigler @alwinmaigler olga kornileva source of picture https://www.saatchiart.com/art/ Photography-Miracle-of-Love-Limited-Edition-1-of-3/963125/3430367/view source of picture https://www.saatchiart.com/art/ Photography-Sex-Still-Life-Limited-Edition-1-of-3/963125/3437951/view source of picture https://www.saatchiart.com/art/ Photography-Passion-and-Pain-Limited-Edition-1-of-3/963125/3411031/view source of picture https://www.saatchiart.com/art/ Photography-Lady-in-fur-Limited-Edition-1-of-3/963125/3410949/view source of picture https://www.saatchiart.com/account/artworks/963125 art project by alena lavdovskaya and edward tuvich Alena Lavdovskaya @alenalavdovskaya Eddie Tuvich @edward_tuvich Fariza Rodriguez @farizarodriguez Sonya Aleksandrova @sonkaaleksandrova Maya Giter @mayagiter Anya and Ilya (agent Anastasia Kirikova @anastasia.kirikova)
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Dear readers and contributors, We are happy to announce that the theme of the upcoming autumn-winter printed issue is Colours. Each season has its unique colour palette but what about the shades of our mood? How do they relate to the external experience? We are curious about your colour sensation of different feelings and emotions and even whole characters! Waiting for your submissions until July 1, Your purplehaze magazine team ■
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