RobertoCapucci

In Pursuit of High Fashion Roberto Capucci Exhibit Stuns at the Philadelphia Art Museum

By: Kori Moore

Happy May to you, Philadelphia!

The Houndstooth Heroine has returned to spread the joy of good style. Now that the trees are wearing green, and the hues of nature’s accessories are popping up all around us, it’s time to be as bright and cheery as well. Spring leads to many opportunities to show off new styles. This time of year, creativity is a huge focus when planning our daily outfits.

We use everything from nature to art to help inspire what is worn.

From the likes of hot designers to fashion conscious Americans, this concept has been going on for decades. A prime example of the concept “art as fashion” is used by Italian couturier Roberto Capucci.

The Philadelphia Museum of Art is currently the home to nearly 90 pieces of his work. This exhibit can be viewed by the public until June 5th, 2011. I got the opportunity to visit the museum and take in the wonder that is fashion as art. The inspiration to dress in a more artistic way is something that more fashion savvy individuals should explore.

Through fashion as wearable art, taking personal style to the next level is as easy as it sounds.

Above: Calla Dress by Roberto Capucci

I spent nearly three hours wandering my way through vintage master pieces. The exhibit laid out his life’s work by making Photos Copyright Philadelphia Museum of Art

each garment appears as artwork and not clothing. Roberto Capucci started designing in 1951. The exhibit’s entrance greeted patrons with his very first collection. A garment that was so sculptural and geometric that caught my attention was the Bocciolo Dress from 1956. The orange silk-taffeta “bud” dress has a flat bodice with an origami inspired skirt. The skirt mimicked a ridged ball that almost looked like crumpled paper.

The dress stopped at the knee. By looking at the piece itself, the vintage nature of the dress was visible due to wear on the fabric but the style still seemed modern. This concept of making fabric look physically hard has inspired many of today’s designers. Thierry Mugler for example, has designed several origami dresses that he credits his inspiration to Capucci. To continue on the sculptural aspect, many of Capucci’s gowns have architectural feels to them. His Calla Dress, also from 1956 seemed more building-like than clothing. This garment, in off-white started with thick straps and led into a modest v-line. A cape-like piece of fabric was then attached to the back and draped frontwards. The outer piece, stayed upright due to boning, and created an opening in the front. To translate something this intricate into an inspiration for everyday wear can be as easy as the shape of the clothing. Solid colors mixed with exaggerated shapes like spheres, creates a great going out for a nice dinner or a family formal function.

Try wearing a dress hitting between the mid thigh and knee, with a bubble shape to the skirt. The puffier the bottom of a dress or skirt, the more sculptural the feel of the outfit is. Keep in mind a bubble skirt is most flattering on a petite frame.

If the lengths of the legs are between 28-32 inches, the design will flatter and translate into structure. To keep up with spring, try a fuchsia or royal purple. Pair Photos Copyright Philadelphia Museum of Art

Above: Bocciolo Dress, 1956 with spiked heels and you’ll appear as radiant as the Philly skyline.

As I continued through the museum corridors in a fashion-trance, my heart skipped a beat when I entered the section of his work from the mid 1960’s. At that time the MOD look from London was sending out trends left and right.

This style was very symmetrical, with a-line and boxed cuts. The patterns of the fabric were now geometric rather then the actual construction of the garments.

One piece that stood out was the Omaggio a Vasarely (Homage to Vasarely) from 1965.

The garment was floor length, long sleeved and has a hood.

The pattern of the dress was

made by weaving black and white silk ribbons into strategic sequences. The pattern of repetitive boxes tricked the eye into dizzy circles, making the squares appear as spheres. The hood is lined with black ostrich feathers.

The same elegant feathers can be seen at the end of the sleeves. The first thought that entered my mind was “This is very Alexander McQueen”.

The late designer who has designed for the likes of Lady Gaga cashed in on hoods and the opposite of reveling. This particle piece

by Capucci appears to be almost anti-MOD. It shows how a trend can be taken

further and turned into something embellished with glamour to let the art of it stand out.

This gown personally is one of his most dramatic pieces. It is almost “dark” in a sense considering the design was inspired by a piece of art by artist Victor Vasarely. This costume-like look that is pure drama and edge can be a perfect look for going out on the town to tare up the club scene. Black and white is even safe for spring. Try thin strapped black dress with feather accents between the bust and hem of the skirt. Pair with white large beads and platforms in either red, black and white paten leather. The straighter the cut of the dress the more MOD your style will transcend. By

adding more embellishments like feathers will give it a more exotic and “couture” feel.

As the wall of breathtaking designs continued, I felt that same little flutter in my chest when I came upon pieces from 1971-1980. After seeing several decades of hard edges, chunky embellishments and solid colors, it was a delight to see softer looking shapes with pieces of nature attached to them. In the early 70’s when the color pallet was muted mauves and dusty lime greens, Capucci kept up with the style of the times but twisted it in his favor.

The shapes ranged from empire waists to full length a-line skirts.

He added such elements as bam-

Above: Omaggio a Vasarely

boo and even pebbles. His couture designs of leisure suits and maxilength dresses inspired the “vacation” look. By taking a green organza dress and fashioning a belt made of woven bamboo, the concept of nature inspiring fashion is seen clearly. He created a new look that would be mimicked for decades. Bamboo, wicker and other wood has been used in shoes and jewelry but the way Capucci used them was in a way to showcase the nonconventional materials rather than the rest of the garment. He even had a gown with pebbles glued to the neckline ending near the bust.

All of the fabric is lightweight and in neutral and soft tones. This look screams summer. As we continue to warm up and vacations get booked, try taking a Capucci inspired look with you. High-waisted, wide-legged linen pants in a pale khaki reflect the shapes and colors of his gowns. Pair with a fitted t-shirt to contrast the flow. Make sure to accessorize with woven belts, wooden jewelry and a straw hat. Wear this to the boardwalk with wicker wedges and you have a throw back homage to Roberto Capucci.

Spending the afternoon with such treasures truly opened my eyes to fashion as art. It truly is inspiring and should be translated into everyday wear. I highly recommend any one who likes fashion check out this exhibit. It’s mind-blowing to see something so classic and elegantly made and then let it inspire a new sense of personal style. So when the spring turns to summer, keep seeing fashion as art. Be bolder, revert to a throwback look, and be your own master piece. Until next time Philadelphia!

Peace, love and shoes! –The Houndstooth Heroine.

Photos Copyright Philadelphia Museum of Art