National Institute Of Fashion Technology New Delhi
Industry Internship 2019 -
Pushp Gund
Department of Fashion Design Batch of 2016-2020
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Industry Internship 2019 Student
Pushp Gund Bachelor of Design Fashion Design Batch 2016-2020
Legal Entity
Raymond Limited
Institute Mentor
Prof. Dr. Purva Khurana Associate Dean Department of Fashion Design NIFT, New Delhi
Industry Mentor
Mr. Kishor Bhatia Director Product Development Raymond Suitings
Industry Guide
Ms. Deepika Thukral Deputy Manager Product Development Raymond Suitings
Signature
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Preface
This record is a succinct report of the two months industry internship, beginning June 3, 2019, finishing July 27, 2019, that I experienced at Raymond Limited in Thane, Maharastra. The report is an outline of the considerable number of undertakings and assignments done over the span of my internship position. The target of this internship is to incorporate students into the daily schedule of a proper workplace also to comprehend the working of the particular businesses they work in. The report features the profile of the organization, the jobs played by every division and examining the learning at Raymond Limited. The organization furnished me with a stage where I was able to improve ranges of abilities in the design process and textiles. Overall it was a fruitful involvement as far as gaining learning and giving my best commitment to the association.
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Acknowledgement
I would like to offer my significant thank and profound respects to my Internship Mentor, Mr Kishor Bhatia, Director of Product Development at Raymond Suitings for his important contributions to my work. I likewise accept this opportunity to offer my genuine thanks to Ms Deepika Thukral, Deputy Manager at Raymond Suitings and Ms Varsha Rani, Executive Designer at Raymond Suitings. I am obliged for their participation and managing me calmly at each progression all through my internship span. I might want to thank my Institute Mentor Prof. Dr Purva Khurana for steady consolation without which this task would not have been assembled. In conclusion, I am appreciative to Mr Jay Karia, Ms Palak Gupta and Ms Shambhavi Deo for their help and consolation in a new city.
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Certificate
• To gain a holistic understanding of how the industry works, and what place a Fashion Designer holds in an organisation.
Objectives
• To learn to work as a part of a larger team and understanding the role of an individual as well as a collective responsibility. •
To overall enhance my technical skills.
• To keep up-to-date with emerging design trends so as to experiment and put in use for the projects undertaken. • To have a better understanding of the hierarchy of the system and forge my path in it. • To manage time as per the deadlines are given and work to the best of the capabilities
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Table of Contents
-01 Introduction (Pg.16-25)
Overview Subsidiary Companies Raymond Suitings SWOT Analysis
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Key Accountabilities of the role (Pg.26-31) My Role Organisational Structure Project Charter
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Epilogue (Pg.76-81)
Projects (Pg.34-75)
My Learning Conclusion Refrences
Understanding the Textile Business Major (New Look in Menswear Through Printing) Minor (Silhouette Development for Regio Italia)
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Picture by Pushp Gund
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Introduction Overview It was incorporated as the Raymond Woollen mill during the year 1925 near Thane Creek. Lala Kailashpat Singhania took over The Raymond Woollen Mill in the year 1944. In 1958, the first exclusive Raymond Retail showroom, King’s Corner, was opened at Ballard Estate in Mumbai. In 1968, Raymond had set up a readymade garments plant at Thane. A new manufacturing facility was set up at Jalgaon (Maharashtra) during the year 1979 to meet the increasing demand for worsted woollen fabrics. The Raymond Limited is an $800 million company with $797 million as operating income. The total net income of the company stood at $850 million with total assets of $ 500 million with total equity of $ 475 million.
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Raymond Suiting Plants Chhindwara Vapi Jalgaon
(Branded Textiles)
(Branded Apparel)
(Garmenting)
(High Value Cotton Shirting)
Raymond Garmenting Plants Silver Spark Apparel Unit I & II Celebration S Apparel Limited Dress Master Apparel Limited Ethopia
Raymond Shirting Plants Kolhapur Amravati
With a capacity of 38 million meters in wool and wool-blended fabrics, Raymond commands over 60 per cent market share in worsted suiting in India and ranks amongst the first three fully integrated manufacturers of worsted suiting in the world. We are perhaps the only company in the world to have a diverse product range of nearly 20,000 design and colours of suiting fabric to suit every age, occasion and style. Raymond export products to over 55 countries including USA, Canada, Europe, Japan and the Middle East. Raymond produces high-value pure-wool, wool-blended and premium polyester viscose worsted suiting in addition to half a million blankets and shawls. Our strong in-house skills for research and development have always resulted in path-breaking new products raising the standard of the Indian textile industry.
Tools & Hardware 6%
Auto Components 4%
High Value Cotton Shirting 9%
Branded Textile 46%
Garmenting 11%
Branded Apparel 24%
Revenue Chart
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Revenue Chart Source: Annual Report 2018-19
Subsidiary Companies Gross Revenue of the company for FY 2015 stood at Rs.51.83 crore (Previous Year: Rs.50.19 crore). The company earned a Profit after Tax of Rs.0.72 crore (Previous Year: 0.73 crores).
Raymond Apparel Limited Raymond Apparel Limited brings to the customers the best of fabric and styling through some of India’s most prestigious brand-Raymond Premium Apparel, Park Avenue and Parx.
Raymond Woollen Outerwear Limited The Gross Revenue of the company for FY 2015 stood at Rs.4.09 crore (Previous Year: Rs. 5.39 crore). During the year, the company had a profit of Rs.0.06 crore (Previous Year: loss Rs.0.27 crore).
Colorplus Fashions Limited This company operates as the readyto-wear premium casual lifestyle brand for men under the ‘Colorplus’ brand. The company’s Gross Revenue for FY 2015 stood at Rs. 245.47 crores (Previous Year: Rs.210.44 crore). The company made a loss of Rs.12.70 crore (Previous Year: Rs.6.01 crore).
Raymond Luxury Cottons Limited During the year under review, Raymond Zambaiti Limited has changed its name to “Raymond Luxury Cottons Limited”. This company caters to niche highvalue Luxury Cotton shirting customers. The erstwhile Joint Venture partner Cotonifico Honegger s.p.A was declared bankrupt by an Italian Court.
Silver Spark Apparel Limited The company has a quality overseas clientele, and the strong export order book led to a strong sales growth performance. The Gross Revenue of the company for FY 2015 stood at Rs.392.78 crore (Previous Year: Rs.313.91 crore). Celebrations Apparel Limited This company has a state-of-the-art manufacturing facility for formal shirts. The Gross Revenue of the company for FY 2015 was placed at Rs.59.20 crore (Previous year: Rs.28.10 crore). The company incurred a loss of Rs. 0.87 crore (Previous Year: 0.46 crore). Everblue Apparel Limited This company has a state-of-the-art denim-wear facility offering seamless denim garmenting solutions. The
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Pictures Source: Company website
The Raymond Shop Advertisement
Raymond Suitings one of the world’s largest vertically and horizontally integrated manufacturers of worsted suiting fabric. They are globally renowned for manufacturing SUPER 250s (Mean fibre diameter of 11μ), with manufacturing facilities in Vapi (Gujrat), Chindwara (Madhya Pradesh) and Jalgaon (Maharasthra) Raymond is able to produce 38 million meters of suiting fabric, extended across all wool, polywool, silk and other premium brands.
Branded textile is the flagship business of Raymond group. its a leading b2c branded player for suiting and shirting in the Indian market and commands the largest market share in domestic worsted suiting fabric. The core values include a focus on product and service innovation. The suiting business margins are usually impacted by the increase in wool prices which was later mitigated by product reengineering and price hike. The made to measure business works parallel with the suiting business, new catalogues are launched including casual wear and loungewear. There’s a sudden shift towards enhancing the customer experience, recently StyleMe (visualisation mirror) was introduced and expansion of online tailoring services to six new cities. The Raymond Shop (TRS) are key assets to the growth of Raymond suitings. Raymond suiting continues to expand the tailoring ecosystem by training tailors and opening 100% franchisee based state of the art Raymond Authorised Tailoring hubs- 51 hubs as on march 31, 2019 with annual conversion capacity of 2 million meters. With near 100% consumer awareness, Raymond’s core brand equity comprises ‘trust’ and ‘quality’ and it remains among the most preferred brand across the textile and apparel category. Raymond has unparalleled manufacturing capabilities,
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SWOT Analysis Strengths Strong Brand Name Raymond is almost a 100-year-old brand and has sustained through different phases and fashion trends in India and all over the world through the trust and credibility of its customers. It has strong brand loyal customers in the market. Strong Brand Image The Raymond brand itself is sufficient enough to impress the customers. Popular Tagline “Raymond: The Complete Man�: The tagline The Complete Man is a very successful tag line in the advertisement arena. The recall impact of this advertisement upon the customers is quite large. Raymond gets a good recognition of its brand through this tag line. Product Line Extension Raymond is continuously expanding its product line by adding various new brands under its level. This helps the company to target customers of various age and occupation groups. The detailed product line is discussed in the discussion of the section about the company. The Raymond Shop The Raymond Shop is a new creation of Raymond where the company make all its brands available under one roof. In other words, it is a chain of stores through which the company retains all the brands under it. It has been a successful venture for Raymond in terms of engaging its customers through its brands and has also contributed heavily in increasing the sales.
Weakness Raymond Defamation Case: Vishal Patel, a minority shareholder at textile major Raymond who brought to light the alleged misuse of the company’s funds. On March 2, Vishal Patel published an open letter in the Business Standard newspaper saying the company spent more than Rs. 186 crore in the JK House property in Mumbai. Low Global Penetration: Raymond has the major presence in India and some SouthEast Asian nations which is very low as compared to its major competitors which are a weakness for the company. Over Dependence on Home Market: The strategies that the company is adopting since its inception looks like more domestic centric in nature.
Opportunities Increasing Per Capita Income in India The per capita income in India is increasing. This could be an added advantage for the company. This will certainly increase the demand in the apparel industry. Growing Middle Class The Indian middle class have experienced a shift in their spending pattern. The middle-class population of India can create high demand in the near future. Global Presence Raymond is gradually targeting global exposure.
Threats Intense Competition: Raymond is imaged as a high priced company in the market. With the availability of too many players, Raymond competes with various local and global players in the market. Intense competition in the market puts pricing pressure and reduce the market share in the industry. It faces competition from several companies like Birla Corporation Ltd, Arvind Mills Ltd, Century Textiles and Industries Ltd and more. Reduce in demand for Stitching Clothes: Today the market is the market for ready-made-cloths. The stitching clothes have almost lost their charm in the market. One of the important reason may be due to the nonavailability of professional tailors and expensive stitching. 25
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Key accountabilities of my role My Role Designing: Understanding components of a fashion-oriented collection and factors contributing to a commercial collection. Interpretation of Forecast, decisions of colours, design developments and trade sketching were key liabilities during my internship. Understanding the textile business Sourcing: Understanding various methods of sourcing, vendors (their terms & condition), fabrics, processing and printing and trims & closures. Sampling: Process, planning, Pattern Making, Cutting, Quality measures, fit, grading and finishing were also key accountabilities to my role.
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Mr Gautam Hari Singhania Chairman and Managing Director
Mr Sanjay Behl CEO - Lifestyle Business
Mr Mr Sudhanshu Pokhriyal President - Textiles
Key Mentors
Mr Kishor Bhatia Director - Product Development (Industry Mentor)
Mr Mahesh Lutade Deputy General Manager Designing
Ms Deepika Thukral Deputy Manager - Design (Industry Guide)
Ms Varsha Rani Executive Designer
Organisational Structure Highly organised and creative Raymond Suitings has a large team of employees that work hand in hand. A successful and friendly environment makes a healthy atmosphere for everyone to work together as a team. Raymond Limited employees more than three thousand employees each with a different designation, so for a better understanding, the organisational structure has been dedicated to the team I was working with.
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Bussiness: Textiles Function: Suitings Project Title: New Look in Menswear Through Printing
Legal Entity: Raymond Limited Specialization Requires: Knowledge of various printing method
Project Objective: To study the latest trends in menswear. Implement different printing techniques to regenerate the same
Activity Charter / Deliverables List: To generate various design options and implement the selected design. Study our range of from the printing perspective. Use various printing techniques such as embossing, screen printing, 3D printing, etc. Develop the new print in menswear.
Project Details: Duration : 2 months starting 1st June, 2019 to 31st July, 2019 Projects Location: Thane Industry Mentor: Mr Kishor Bhatia Key Stakeholders / Interaction Points: Designing department & Product development
Outcomes Expected: To keep atleast 25 designs ready. Explore various different techniques to acheive these designs
My Project Charter
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Projects
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A Multi Brand Outlet in Thane Maharashtra
Understanding the Textile Business At Raymond Limited
What is Worsted Fabric?
What is Yarn Count?
Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the fabric made from this yarn, and a yarn weight category. Worsted was made from the long-staple pasture wool from sheep breeds such as Teeswaters, Old Leicester Longwool and Romney Marsh. Pasture wool was not carded; instead, it was washed, gilled and combed (using heated long-tooth metal combs), oiled and finally spun. When woven, worsteds were scoured but not fulled. Worsted wool fabric is typically used in the making of tailored garments such as suits, as opposed to woollen wool, which is used for knitted items such as sweaters.
The yarn count is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or coarseness. It also expresses whether the yarn is thick or thin. It is the mass per unit length or length per unit mass of yarn.
Merino Wool
Super 250s
Merino Wool is a type of material that comes from Merino Sheep and is renowned for its exceptional properties. These include its fantastic softness, shine and breathability. The fibres of Merino wool are softer, finer, and more sensitive than many other fabrics. Common wool types are warm, durable, water repellent, and naturally insulating. All the exceptional qualities of the Merino sheep wool add up to make the recipe for world-leading wool. The incomparable quality has made it not only highly praised but also highly sought after.
Chairman Collection: Super 250s - Finest worsted fabric in the world (made out of 11.4-micron merino wool)
At Raymond, yarn count ranges 24 Nm to 145 Nm.
Super 80s - 19.5 Micron Super 90s - 19 Micron Super 100s - 18.5 Micron Super 110s - 18 Micron Super 120s - 17.5 Micron Super 130s - 17 Micron Super 140s - 16.5 Micron Super 150s - 16 Micron Super 160s - 15.5 Micron Super 170s - 15 Micron Super 180s - 14.5 Micron Super 190s - 14 Micron
At Raymond wool range of 11.4 to 24 microns is used.
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Raymond’s Techno Series (UV Protection, Wrinkle Free, Smooth Touch & Breathable)
Production Process at Raymond
Wool Scouring
Greige Combing & Converter
Dyeing
Weaving & Mending
Spinning & Yarn Room
Re-combing
Folding
Warehouse
Finishing
Suiting Manufacturing Units: Chindwara, Vapi & Jalgaon
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Textronics DesignDobby Under Mr Mahesh Lutade, I got the opportunity to learn Textronics DesignDobby. After weave analysis of almost 25 swatches, I was supposed to put them on the software and create a new colour scheme for the same. Below are the examples of replication of swatches in a different colour scheme.
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Project #1
New Look in Menswear Through Printing
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Trend Research Derived from Micro Trend: Pirsuit of Happiness
From <https://ubmfashion.com/ blogs/sourcing-trend-directionspring-summer-2020-ethos>
In Ethos, we remind ourselves of the joys of being human. We embrace our emotions and find joy in the little moments in life, appreciating that the unexpected and unplanned often end up being the best. There's a continuing appreciation for craft and a new sense of minimalism that is arising through local design, one that actually speaks to a purpose. "JOMO" (Joy of Missing Out) is added to our vocabulary as we seek off- the grid travel, slow living practices and body positive thinking. Sustainability is taking on new forms with plant-based fabrics, and and increase in farm-to-table ingredients is found in beauty and health.
From <https://ubmfashion.com/ blogs/sourcing-trend-directionspring-summer-2020-ethos>
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Urban Wanderer 30Â07Â2019 13:22
The flexibility of freelance culture and the idea of access over ownership contribution to the romance of a nomadic life. We are seeking rest and deeper life meaning during our vacations, thus off the grid travel, retreats, and shared experiences are in demand. There's a dawning of consciousness emerging in the workforce.
we remind ourselves of the joys of being human. We embrace our emotions and find joy in the little moments in life, appreciating that the unexpected and unplanned often end up being the best. There's a continuing appreciation for craft and a new sense of minimalism that is arising through local design, one that actually speaks to a purpose.
Local craft is seen as elevated design, giving purpose and meaning to every raw material used. With emphasis shifting towards slow craftwork we cherish traditional weaving, and crochet knitting techniques to inspire a new generation of process driven materials. Sustainability takes on new forms with regenerated organics and plant based fibers . that showcase how imperfectly beautiful nature can be.
Style no. 1
Design Process followed: 1. Doodle on the croqui 2. Making a graphic out of the doodle. 3. Adding colours 4. Trying different color schemes.
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Style no. 2
Style no. 3
Style no. 4
Style no. 5
Style no. 6
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Style no. 7
Style no. 8
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Style no. 10
Style no. 11
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Style no. 12
Style no. 13
Style no. 14
Style no. 15
Style no. 16
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Selected Print for Production #1
Selected Print for Production #2 53
Selected Print for Production #3
Selected Print for Production #4 55
Style #1
Style #2
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Style #3
Style #4
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Project #2
Silhouette Research for Regio Italia
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About The Indian suiting fabric specialist Raymond recently launched a new collection of finest Italian suiting materials suited for both occasionwear and formalwear purposes. Meant for consumers with a taste for luxe global fashion, the premium line entitled Regio ITALIA features quality fabrics in five different blends including Wool silk, Super 180s, Super 150s, Super 130s and Super 120s. Available both in the form of lengths as well as swatch samples, the collection, which would be updated periodically to keep up with the latest trends in international fashion, will be sold in select outlets across the country and at The Raymond Shops.
Launch of Regio Italia
Research Images
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Understanding the fabric
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Autumn Winter Collection Regio Italia Swatch File
Style #1
Style #2
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Style #25
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Epilogue
My Learning Functions and Working of a Menswear Suiting Company: In the beginning, I did not have experience of working with a Menswear Textile Brand. I saw the importance of guidance from an industry expert and the need for new ideas. During my internship, I also experienced a sense of independent design methodology followed by everyone. There was often uncertainty wheater and when my projects will start executing, but it forced me to be flexible and to see what other things I could do.
design forecast, working in the discipline, meeting deadlines were key factors that really helped me during the internship, which are very well followed in college. Organizing Projects: Within the internship, I did a lot of fieldwork, because of this Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen of what aspects you have to think while organising a project (Time is taken for printing, time is taken for production). Furthermore, I have realised how much time management is important. Designing has to be completed well in advance so that proper time is given for approvals and printing & production.
Enhancing my communication skills and working with different people: More than I expected I suffered communication difficulties. It takes a lot of time and effort to make people understand your design. A good design can also be rejected if explained in the wrong way. To contribute more to projects and to progress faster, I had to work on my confidence level to express my ideas and opinion.
The influence on future career plans: I had some doubts about my career plans. Through this internship, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen what elements of my career I like and got enthusiastic about. Skills and knowledge that might be improved to work in the professional background.
The use of skills and knowledge gained in the university: What we learn in college and what we learn in the industry are a bit different. Definitely, the range development skills did help a lot during the internship, but the long and tiring design process wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t really successful in the industry. Few steps from the design process had to be completely erased out due to the time restrains. Other than that following the
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Conclusion
Overall, this internship has not only taught me how to function in a professional environment but has also given me critical insight into the world of textiles, worsted wool, fabric printing, trend forecast, printing techniques and design. The opportunity of using key knowledge of printmaking and designing menswear suits will always stay with me and help in all my future endeavours. I now know what is the importance of having an organised project and having a different design philosophy is to put a project together. It has taught me to work ethics, hard work and has consolidated my deep love for my line of work that would help me wholeheartedly pursue it as a career from here onwards. I will forever be grateful for this opportunity and learning experience.
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Refrences
https://issuu.com/estd97/docs/anmol https://www.icsi.edu/media/portals/86/The%20Raymond%20Ltd%20.pdf https://retail.economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/apparel-fashion/apparel/ raymond-unveils-italian-suiting-fabric-range-regio-italia/45240993 http://www.raymond.in/sites/default/files/Raymond_AR_Deluxe_2019.pdf
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