BEAUTY, BUT KEEP IT REAL: A CHAT ABOUT BEAUTY STANDARDS WITH MODEL & CREATIVE NÉOMI ELBAZ

by Cynthia Vasquez

Who is Néomi Elbaz? Meet the 21-year-old American-turned-Canadian who didn’t originally expect to enter the fashion world. Described in three words, her most prominent descriptors can be thought of as relatable, authentic, and independent. A proclaimed “model by necessity,” her journey began at 16 after several companies directly messaged her on Instagram about modeling for their brands. At 17, she decided to move to Montréal, Québec, by herself after graduating from high school. Today, she’s doing her thing collaborating with creatives throughout Montréal and New York City. We engaged in a conversation about all things related to beauty. What exactly is deemed as beautiful today? What and who are most poppin’ in fashion today and every day? Who’s deciding the latest trends? Why are the latest fads so popular? From the perspective of a Black creative who appears both in front of and behind-the-camera, Elbaz gave her scoop on the fashion scene she’s experienced.

Who are some of your favorite models that you also consider role models?

“Since I’ve started modeling more seriously, I’ve met higher class models. They do beautiful work. One model, in particular, is Adetutu Oluwabusayomi Alabi, who also goes by Adetutu OJ. She’s really beautiful. If you know Burna Boy, she’s in one of his music videos, actually. She has [tribal marks] across her face.

[However], I don’t really believe in idolizing people, and I don’t necessarily even believe in meeting your heroes. Because I have met famous people and I was really disappointed when I met them because I felt I couldn’t really connect. Whether because there wasn’t any real depth to that person. I’m a very laid back person, so I don’t know, I firmly believe people are people. Even if you do great things, I don’t believe in idolizing another being.”

They say don’t have too many expectations before meeting your heroes, because you might be disappointed. Do you have any favorite designers?

“The last brand I worked with has so far been one of my favorite brands. I think what they’re doing is really cool. It’s called ORAKI. All their stuff is made from recycled plastic, and I think that is awesome. Nike did that stuff, making shoes out of recycled plastic, and I think that’s so cool. Because we have all this trash that we’re just throwing out into the world, and they’re making things that are so beautiful out of it.”

How do you think the fashion industry has changed over the years?

“I think things change but stay the same because, at the end of the day, fashion is recycled. Everything in this world is new and old. We have bell-bottom pants coming back; we have all these different prints and styles that are coming back. Maybe they’re altered in a little different way, but this was fashion just a little bit ago, too.

There are also still many, many people who are still not inclusive. Now, maybe you’re not supposed to be this tall and this skinny, but you’re supposed to be a very specific type. I know [that] Fashion Nova’s a little bit more inclusive, but when they first started out, I saw their page, and I was like, ‘Oh, this is clearly not for me.’ This is for women who are shaped in a very specific way that I know I wasn’t. Nothing against Fashion Nova, though. They’re all beautiful girls. Whether it’s real or fake, or whatever. It's just I saw that and was like okay, I don't need to come back here"

Do you think that models feel the need to change themselves according to the current trends and fads to continue receiving work?

“A hundred percent, yeah, definitely. Even the Jenners/Kardashians, they change all the time. As much as people want to say, ‘Oh, but Kendall didn’t get butt implants,’ and this and that. That’s great, that girl’s had work done, and she’s no older than I am, or maybe just a couple years. But, yo, that girl gets work done. All these girls get work done.”

Do you think the “Kardashian effect” is impacting what brands make for everyday girls looking to model their clothing? (Fashion Nova, Pretty Little Thing, MissGuided, etc.)

“I think this Kardashian effect is very real, and I think Instagram models are the new norm and expectation [for women]. Maybe the beauty standard is no longer a super tall anorexic girl, but now it’s looking like an Instagram model, aka cardboard cut-out of Kylie Jenner, which is ultimately fake. This is the general vibe, but not all clothing lines, and not all agencies are like this. However, I’ve definitely been turned down due to my size. But, I know for a fact that it’s not real.

It does definitely play a big role in how a lot of brands are marketing their clothing. As for Instagram models, the only reason these girls are Instagram models is because they’re able to pull it off. As much as we want to say it’s nothing, it’s just a girl wearing makeup. Do you know how much time these girls put into this persona? Literally, every waking hour has to be devoted to self-indulgence and not even selfcenteredness; but it has to be all about you all the time on social media. Like you’re famous, but you’re your own paparazzi. You’re constantly advertising yourself, and I don’t think that’s what people are. I think there are some people who are able to be, though. That’s when you get these Instagram models who are willing to alter their bodies and do these things to get whatever result they’re looking for.”

Were you ever told that you needed to change anything about your physical appearance?

“Definitely, I’ve been turned away many times, for my height especially. I’ve been told that ‘You know, your hair isn’t long enough.’ Or it’s not a certain way. Or ‘You don’t have these features.’ Bodywise, I have been told before that I need to lose weight or have a curvier look, but this is just my womanly form.

I think that’s a huge thing also that people need to learn to accept themselves because these expectations that we’re asked to meet are not realistic. That’s not what everyday women are like. There all shapes and sizes; there are different body types all over the world.

So yeah, I’ve definitely been told that I need to alter the way that I look. Whether it’s been by people I’m trying to work with or for, or by the general public and them saying you could definitely get all these jobs. That’s not what I’m personally striving for, I definitely try to be a healthy person by exercising and eating right. I think going under the knife is for some people, but it’s not for me.”

This year, something very shocking (and as many people feel) overdue occurred: Victoria’s Secret fashion show was canceled months before COVID-19 started. How did you feel about that?

“I’ve never quite been a fan of Victoria’s Secret. I felt something was wrong with that business from the second I first walked into the stores. The way that they market their product shows that it’s like a man-owned thing because I don’t feel represented. I feel like this is what you need to be. You need to sell sex. It makes me question the ideals of the company themselves.

I couldn’t care less that it’s canceled. I never bothered to watch those shows, they don’t appeal to me in any way shape or form. I don’t think that show impacts many people like the Fenty show does. I like the Fenty show because it’s more than just, ‘Look at these clothes!’ It’s also about sharing diversity, sharing music, and sharing in the community. And, you see all these girls, like I know there was a girl and her leg was amputated. She was dancing, she was strutting, she was doing all this stuff, and it was awesome.

And it’s cool because it helps all these different kinds of women, and men, and whatever people want to identify as, feel good about themselves. And while I understand that many people with the older mentality might say it’s fashion, it’s supposed to be for this and that, and that aesthetic thing is something that people really hold onto. But if you have the power to do something so widespread, why not make the world a bit of a better place at the same time, while you’re still killing the game?

What do you feel needs to change when it comes to those deciding what’s trendy and fashionable at the moment?

“That’s a really big question, because first off, who is deciding what’s trendy and hot at the moment?

I think we’re blinded sometimes by the wrong things. I think it’s not just the people who are behind the scenes, but I think it’s also the people who are in the scene because… well, who sets the tone today? If you’re walking down the street, what do you hear? What’s hype? What’s poppin’? What are all these trends? Where do they come from? Black people. At the end of the day, we have the power. It’s just at what point do you want to stop being this trope that they want you to be, and speak up for what’s right and to speak up for your community.

It goes so much deeper than just a beauty standard. It goes down to our perception of people. I’ve lost friends because of the color of their skin. I’ve almost lost my life because of the color of my skin. I’m sure that many Black youths have a similar story, and that’s sad. That’s why fashion statements, trends... It’s something way more than just clothing. That’s why I hold onto the modeling thing and being able to share my voice because I know that I’m an opinionated person. If I have something to say that can help someone, then I’m gonna.”

What’s something you think fashion can do to make yourself feel that you’re another girl on the stage?

“I think I’ve had to accept myself the way I am. I remember being in school… I was getting made fun of for my natural hair. I remember coming home and crying to my mom. I remember having to straighten my hair until it was fried off of my head. I remember these things, and that wasn’t too long ago. I remember whiteness being the definition of beauty. I still think that it’s somewhere there in the general public and media because you’re going to see one feature on a Black woman and have people say it’s vulgar. While you see it on a White woman, and have people say well, that’s beautiful.

It took many years for me to accept myself. I think I’m still working on accepting myself. I don’t think that women are these perfect beings all the time, and I think that we hurt ourselves a lot, trying to be these perfect cut-outs. But that’s just not what real is. I think it’s a harmful thing to much of society, to many girls growing up, you know.

Through makeup and fashion, I’ve already been able to change the person I am, depending on what I’m wearing and my style. I’ve developed a tough enough skin to be okay with who I am. I definitely know that I am my own person, I’m unique and very happy with the person that I am.”